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Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery, 1883 A Foods of England online text. For more see Cookbooks TITLE: Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery AUTHOR: PUBLISHER: Cassel, Petter & Galpin, London, Paris and New York DATE: 1883? THIS VERSION: This text prepared from the version at archive.org, digitized from an edition in the collections at Boston Public Library. This is an Optical Character Recognition scan, it has been partly edited, but still contains very significant errors. SSELL'S Dictionary of Cookery, NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS FULL-PAGE COLOURED PLATES. Contain in all about Nine Thousand Becipcs, Cassell Fetter & Galpin: PREFACE. The art of Cookery is every day receiving increased attention : and no wonder. Life is made all the brighter by satisfactory feeding ; and he is a dull philosopher who despises a good dinner. The pleasures of the table as has been pointed out by the celebrated Dr. Kitchiner are enjoyed by us more than a thousand times every year, and whoever thoroughly realises that fact will need neither argument nor eloquence to persuade him to an experimental acquaintance with all possible cooking processes and all possible recipes. But the strong point of good cookery is not its gratification of the palate, but its influence on health. This is a matter of far greater importance than is generally thought. It is no exaggeration to say that the explanation of many fatal disorders is to be found in nothing but badly-cooked and illassorted viands. Our households would enjoy better health, and be better able to withstand sickness when it came, if pains were only taken to have food well chosen and properly made ready. Every housekeeper, then, will give the subject of eating and drinking a prominent place in her daily round of duties. A desire to aid in the diffusion of knowledge on such an important topic induced the Publishers to project a Work on Cookery which would be at once the largest and most complete collection of recipes ever produced in this country. Experience and energy were brought to -bear on the undertaking, and the result is now before the reader. The practical part of the following work has been preceded by a complete treatise on the " Principles of Cookery."'' This has been written by a gentleman in every way entitled to speak with authority, thus making our Dictionary a marked contrast to many .publications of a similar kind. " Too many,"" says a distinguished chef, " who have presumed to write upon the art and science of Cookery are far from possessing any real or adequate knowledge of what they so recklessly attempt to teach."" By reading these "Principles of Cookery"" the cook will become possessed of the whole alphabet of her art. In the arrangement of the recipes the dictionary form has been chosen as the most convenient. Cross-references have been inserted where they were needed, and it is believed that any article in the work niay be found without Jifncuity and at a moment's notice. Classified lists of recipes are to be met witli under such heads as "Biscuits ' "Ices ' "Jams ' "Jellies ' "Puddings ' " Sauces '' " Soups ' &:c. The recipes are the tried recipes of g-ood artists, and their intrinsic excellence will certainly recommend them. They have been chosen with a view to the varied capabilities and requirements of English households, and no branch of Cookery up to the elaborate dishes of high life has been ignored. Not only everyday fare, but fare for extra occasions has been included. Cold meat cookery, the cooking of Australian meat, cookery for invalids, beverages of every kind, and the best methods of carving, have all received ample notice. The wholesomeness or unwholesomeness of many different kinds of food has been pointed out, and their nutritive value has been stated. Prices have been added in most cases, and the greatest pains has been taken to secure accuracy. In the Appendix have been given short articles on Kitchen Utensils, Seasonable Foods, and Terms used in Cookery. Great pains have been taken to give the work a practical character, and it is hoped that the illustrative woodcuts and coloured j lates will add greatly to its intelligibility and interest. The directions have been put in the simplest form and the plainest language, so that the recipes may be as easily understood in the kitchen as their results are sure to be popular in the dining-room. If the promise of this Preface is good, the performance of the body of the work will be found to be better. To its countless recipes then we leave the reader, parting from him with the words of Horace, " Should you know better precepts than these, candidly tell us ; if not follow them, as we do." CONTEIslTS. PAGE Preface iii Principles of Cookery i- xevi Dictionary, A Z 1 1158 Appendix : A. Kitchen Utensils 1159 B. Seasonable Food 1173 C. Glossary of Terms used in Cookery . . . 11 76 PRINCIPLES OYSTER SAUCE STEAKS OMELETS. table-spoonful of cold milk will do. Now add a little pepper and a tea-spoonful of ancliovy sauce. It is wondeiful how anchovy sauce brings out the flavour of oysters. I would advise cooks to taste the sauce which is flavoured only with the oyster liquor and beards, before adding the anchovy sauce, and after it has been added. The cliange in the flavour is so wonderful that they will have a good practical lesson of the impcrtance of little things for flavouring purposes. The next point is the oysters, which we left in a little basin. First have ready the sauce tureen, empty, but thoroughly hot. Have also ready on the fire a large saucepan or stewpan with boiling water. Next take a small strainer in the right hand, and hold it in the boiling water till the water boils with the metal part of the strainer in it. Lift the strainer just above the boiling water, and pour the oysters out of the little basin into it. Let the oysters be in contact with the boiling water not more than two or three seconds, let the water strain ofi" them, and then throw them into the hot tureen. Povir the sauce on to them, and the oyster sauce is ready. Now a moment's consideration will show that we have treated the oysters just on the same principle that we did the leg of mutton, viz. , we have suiTOunded each oyster with a very tliin film that keeps in the flavour. Had we allowed the oysters to have remained in the boiling water for two or three minutes instead of two or three seconds, we should have made them as tough as leather ; had we- not put them in at all, they would have lost much of their flavour as soon as they were put into the sauce, besides having a somewhat flabby taste. By doing what I have said, the hardening process went on just long enough to surround each oyster with a coating not thicker perhaps than a piece of gold-beater's skin, but then, when the oyster arrived at its destination, the mouth, the moment this coating was broken, the whole of the flavour could be tasted. Wliy does a well-cooked chop or steak look black outside and red in, and why does it require a clear bright fire 1 Because this is the only way in which it can be cooked to keep in the flavour The fierceness of the fire surrounds the chop or steak, as the case may be, with a hard coating almost directly the meat is placed on the gi'idu-on. When the steak comes up and is cut, you can then see the red gravy run out, and not before. Many a chop and steak is spoilt by turning it with a fork, as of course it lets out the gravy, which runs into the fire. I will now tiu-n to quite another subject, viz., omelets. The principle of cooking here to be considered is how to make things light. Now how often do you get an omelet in a private house fit to eat 1 Never at least, that is my experience. And yet an omelet is really a very easy thing to make. The secret of a light omelet is to froth the eggs. But I will go through the recipe ab initio. Suppose first the omelet to be a savoury one. First take a new frying-pan, or one that has only cooked omelets before it is no use trying to make an omelet in a frying-pan that has been used for all sorts of purposes. Take thi-ee eggs, and break them one by one into a cup, to see if they are good, and put them in a basin. Add a piece of onion, chopped finely, as big as the top oS the first' finger down to the nail, and about half a tea-spoonful of equally finely chopped parsley, about a saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper. Add t ?able-spOonfuls of milk. Now place in the smaH-newfiying-pan which mustfii'st be cleaned with boiling soda and water, as new tin is sometimes poisonous two ounces of fresh buttei\ Place the frying-pan on the fire, to melt the butter till it froths. Next, with a foi'k a wooden fork is best beat up the eggs with the milk, chopped onion, and parsley, and pepper and salt, till it is quite frothy. Keep on beating till the last cassell's dictionary of cookery. moment, and then pour it quickly into the butter, which, as I have said, must be frothing in the frying-pan. Take a large spoon and stir it all up very quickly, scraping the bottom of the frying-pan all the time, to prevent the omelet from sticking and burning. As soon as it begins to set, take the frying-pan a little from the fire, and work the omelet with a spoon into a half-moon shape. When it is nearly set, take the fiying-pan off the fire, and hold it in front of the fire, resting the edge of the pan on the bottom bar, and slanting the pan as much as possible ; but, of course, care must be taken not to let the omelet slip right into the fire. Hold the frying-pan like this for a couple of minutes or so. This causes the omelet to rise, and it thereby becomes lighter. In large French kitchens, where there is no open fire, they hold a red-hot salamander over the omelet, which has the same effect. A red-hot shovel does very well if you have a shut-up range. A sweet omelet is made in. exactly the same manner, only of course there is no pepper, onion, or parsley, and only a tiny pinch of salt. Add, however, instead, a tea-spoonful of very finely powdered sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of vanille. This last is an immense improvement. When an " omelette au confiture " is required, the omelet must be kept in the frying-pan round, a spoonful of the jam placed on the one half, and then the other half lifted over on to it with a slice, or something broad, so as not to break it. An omelet must be served directly it is cooked ; so if you want a good one, always take care not to begin to prepare it untQ just before it is required to be eaten, as it only takes two or three minutes to make. No great harm is done even if you have to wait for it. As 1 said before, the secret of a light omelet is frothing the eggs. Why ? Because by so "doing you mix the omelet up with an infinite number of tiny air-bubbles. Now we all know that heat expands everything, air included. These little bubbles, therefore some, perhajis, the size of a pin's point become under the action of heat the size, possibly, of a pin's head ; and as long as the omelet remains hot it is light puffed out, in fact, by air-bubbles expanded by heat. If you let the omelet get pai-tially cold, it in consequence gets heavy. This point is, however, more strongly exemplified in the case of souffles. A cheese souffle is a very nice thing to finish dinner with, and if you know how to make one, is a capital extra dish in case some one comes in to dinner quite unexpectedly. I will try and tell you how to make it, and also, as far as I can, explain why. I will describe how to make as small a one as possible, as it is easy to increase the size, and experiments are always most economical on a small scale. Take a i-ound tin about four inches in diameter, and quite three deep. Have a piece of ornamented white paper ready to pop round the tin quickly. Next take two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated cheese of course a dry cheese gi'ates the best and place it in a basin with a quarter of a pint (half a tumbler) of milk, about half a salt-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of that quantity of pepper. Next break a couple of eggs, keeping the whites separate from the yolks in a small basin. Mix up the yolks with the milk, cheese, &c., thoroughly. Now take these two whites, and whip them up into a stifi" froth, and then mix in quickly the milk, kc. Butter the inside of the tin, and put it ra the oven till it is very hot. Pour the mixture into the tin quickly, and place it in the oven. The oven must be of moderate heat, othei'wise the souffle gets burnt outside and remains pappy in the middle. The average time of baking is about twenty -five minutes to half-an-hour. The soufll6, Avhich when placed in the tin did not half fill it, will rise up a couple of inches above the tin. Everything, howevei', PRINCI PLES FRYING. depends upon its being served quickly. Probably the souffle, if it is two inches above the edge of the tin when it leaves the oven, will sink nearly level with the top before it reaches the table. This cannot be helped, but everything that saves time must be thought of beforehand. For instance, some people delay to pin a dinnei-napkin round the tin. Of course the best plan is to have a silver-plated souffle-case, and then there is no occasion for any delay. These, however, are rare. Have a piece of clean white ornamented paper with a frill ready, and kt there be plenty of room. Now the souffle very often bulges out at the top, and there is no room to put the paper over the tin. Don't let this, however, put you out. Drop the tin into the round pa])er, which should not be higher than the edge of the tin ; but whatever you do, or however you do it, be quick ; have a hot cover ready to pop on, and run with it to the dinner-table. The next point to consider is. Why did the souffle rise 1 Because of the airbubbles. It is easy to whisk the whites of eggs into- a foam, but not the yolks. By separating the whites, therefore, and beating them up separately, we increased our number of air-bubbles to an enormous extent. These bubbles expand with the heat, hence the lightness of the souffle. On the other hand, as the souffle cools, the bubbles contract, the souffle goes down, and a cold souffle would be as heavy as a hot one is light. Now the principle is the thing to grasp. For instance, in making a cake, you want, of course, to make it light; therefore i-emember the souffle i.e., beat the whites up separate from the yolks. This will have the effect of considerably lightening the cake, though, of course, as the process of baking a large cake is slower than that of baking a souffle, the cake would not rise in anything like the same proportion. Another important point on which we ought to examine into the principles of cooking, is that of frying. There are probably few dishes that test the cook's capabilities, more important than that of frying. Contrast for one moment the discoloured dish, too often met with in private houses, in which, say, a " little bit of fish " is sent up, and presents what may be called a parti-coloured appearance. Some part is burned black as a cinder ; another part looks the colour of underdone pie-crust. Again, other parts may present the appearance of having those bald patches, as if the cook had accidentally spilled some boiling water on a cat's back. I say contrast this with the beautifully rich, golden-coloured dish that will make its appearance at the table where the master-mind of one like Francatelli has presided, or with a d-ish tliat one would meet with in a Parisian cafe the bright silver dish contrasting temptingly with the golden-coloured food and the crisp, dark-green parsley piled in the centre. What now is the difficulty '? To keep to our subject, viz., the principles of cooking, we will briefly state that the generality of cooks find their difficulty to exist as follows : They cannot obtain a nice colour without over-cooking their fish. The ordinary way in which cooks Avill prepare a fried sole (and we presume they will know something of their art) is, having dried the fish and floured it, they dip it in egg well beaten up, covering it over with some fine dried bread-crumbs, and having given it a gentle tap all round, somewhat resembling a young mother getting her first baby to sleep, they place the fish in the frying-pan, in which a dab of butter or dripping has been placed. One side is cooked before the other is commenced, part of the fried egg and bread-crumb peels off in turning, and the result, both in appearance and flavour, is most unappetising. Having now described how not to do it, let me proceed to explain how to do it. First, the colour. Order in from your baker's a small bag of nice rich, golden, brown cassell's dictionary of cookery. bread-raspings. You need not fear the expense, as yoiir baker will probably supply you with tbem for notbing. Have tbis always ready in a small flour-dredger on the kitcben mantelpiece. Having dried your fisb tborougbly, floured it, and egged and bread-crumbed it with small, fine, diy bread-crumbs, take this dredger contaioing the golden-brown bread-raspings, and before gently patting your fish, cover it over lightly with a brown film of fine raspings, and, lo and behold ! your fish, before even it reaches the frying-pan, has obtained the colour you desire. All you have now to do is to concentrate your mind on cooking the fish, so as to hit upon that happy medium between its being dried up so that it is tough and unpalatable on the one hand, and an appearance of redness and stickiness along the back-bone, which are sure and certain signs that the fish is not sufiiciently well cooked, on the other. To attempt to convey an idea with regard to the time that a fish takes to cook would be necessarily impossible. Of course this entirely depends upon the thickness of the fish. Nor would I confine my du-ections to the cooking of fish solely. A. sweetbread is an exceedingly nice dish when properly fried and sent to table, presenting an ornamental appearance. I woidd, however, remind you that in all cases where the substance to be fried is beyond a certain thickness, it must previously be what cooks call parboiled. I would also impress upon you the importance of erring on the side of under-cooking rather than on over-cooking. Suppose, for instance, you have to fry a sole of somewhat imusual thickness. Fii'st take care that the fat in which you fry it is amply sufficient to cover the fish. Suppose now, you leave this fish in boiling fat for the minimum of time you think will be requisite to cook it. It is easy to remove the fish from the boiling fat carefully with a slice, and with a small knife cut the meat away from the back-bone in that part of the fish which is thickest. Should you find the meat adhere to the bone, and at the same time present a red appearance, you will know that the fish is not sufficiently cooked. In this case all you have to do is to place the fish back again for a few minutes longer in the boiling fat. Had, however, you waited for the maximum time, and found it overcooked, I know of no method by which you could undo the harm you have done. One hint as to mending what we may term patches. In cutting the fish you will probably displace a small portion of the outside, and thereby make one of those extremely disagi-eeable-looking places which we before likened to a scalded cat's back. If you have by you in readiness the dredger containing the bread-raspings, one sprinkle will hide the patch. Cooks with a very slight effort of ingenuity might often cover over these necessary little borings of discovery. I woidd, in passing, remind cooks that the secret of successful frying to a great extent depends upon the fat being boiling. You cannot fry properly over a slow fire. Now when you have placed a good-sized frying-pan upon the fire, full 6f melted lard, it is not always easy to know when this fat is really boiling and when it is not, for the simple reason that boiling fat will not bubble up like boUing water. To know, therefore, if the fat be boUing, dip your finger into cold water, and let one di'op fall into the middle of the fat. Of course, the cold water, having greater specific gi-avity than the fat, would instantly sink, and if the bottom of the frying-pan be sufficiently heated, this drop of water will cause a hissing sound, from its instantaneous conversion into steam, resembling that of plunging a red-hot poker into water. I would, however, warn young beginners against throwing in, in tlieir hurry, too much water at a time, as the sudden conversion into steam of the water thus thi-own in will very probably cause the fat to splash, and a few drops of really boiling fat upon the hands and aims will be found PRINCIPLES ECONOMY. to be anything but agreeable. We must not, however, lose sight of the very soul of cookery, namely, economy ; and, perhaps already, some young housekeeper may have exclaimed, " Ah ! it is all very well ; but we cannot afford to waste all this fat in just cooking one or two fish." Wait a moment, however. Are you aware that the fat that would cook fish once will cook it twenty, thirty, even fifty times 1 Are you aware that if, after the fish is cooked, you pour the fat carefully into a basin containing boiling water, and stir it up and let it settle, the loose bread-crumbs, and the bad part of the fish, &c., will sink to the bottom of the water, and the fat present a clean and wholesome appearance next morrdng when it has got cold ? Let this fat, therefore, be carefully removed in a thick cake from the top of the basin into which it has been poured. Scrape ofi" carefvilly the rough pieces adjoining the water, and place the fat by in a small basin by itself, and label it " for frying fish." I have no hesitation in saying that this fat will keep perfectly good in winter-time for two or three months. It is far cheaper in the long run to use two pounds of fat and cook things properly, and make the same fat do fifty times, than to use two ounces, cook the fish badly, and let the remauis of the fat help to swell that bugbear of young housekeepers, the " cook's grease-pot." In conclusion, with regard to frying, be careful in removing the fish from the fat, that, before you place it on a dish, you let it rest a few minutes on a hot cloth, which wiU absorb the grease. At the same time, be equally careful that you do not place it in an oven to keep it warm. For fried fish to taste properly, but a very few minutes should elapse between the frying-pan and the dinner-table. A snow-white cloth at the bottom of the dish, some sprigs of bright gi-een parsley placed alternately with a few slices of lemon, will give the dish a better appearance. I have, however, mentioned that I believe economy to be the soul of cookery. There is, perhaps, no word in the English language so little understood as this word economy. Just as political economists are too often considered by the vulgar to be men of hard hearts, so, too, in the art of cookery is economy often associated with meanness and stinginess. I have no hesitation in saying it will be invariably found that the better the cook, the more economy will be practised. There is more waste in the cottage than in the palace, for the simple reason that the cottage cook is entirely ignorant of an art which the chef has brought to perfection. What your so-called good plain cooks thi'ow away, an ingenious French artiste will make into entrees. The French are a nation of cooks, and they cannot afford to dine without soup. Probably the contents of the dust-bins of England would more than fill the soup-tureens of France. I will give a very simple instance of what I term economy in the ordinary living of middle-class families. We all know that grand oldfashioned piece de resistance, the British sirloin. Who has not seen it in its last stages 1 the under-cut gone ; the upper part dug out, on which some greedy individual has evidently gi-asped after the under-done piece in the middle, but who, at the same time, has entirely ignored the end. The kitchen more than follows suit to the dining-room, and what is despised above is scorned below, and perhaps the real destination of the end of the sirloin, which the young housekeeper fondly imagines has done for the servants' supper, has in reality supplied the kennel. Suppose, now, this end had been cut off" before the joint was roasted, and placed in a little salt water, a nice, wholesome, and agreeable hot dinner would have been obtainable with the assistance of some boiled greens and potatoes. A little forethought in these matters constitutes real economy. Scraps of meat, fag ends of pieces of bacon, too often wasted, will, with a little judicious management, make a nice dish of rissoles. CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. I have called attention above to tlie principles on which joints should be boiled, and I will now say a few words on an equally important subject, namely, the principle on which joints should be roasted. Just as in the former case, so in the latter, the one point to be borne in mind is to keej) in the flavour. Now in roasting a joint, perhaps some of you may think that to lose the flavour is impossible. Such, however, is not the case. Just as in turning a steak on the gridiron you let out the gravy if you stick a fork in it, so in roasting a leg of mutton do you, to a certain, though not equally great, extent, let out the gravy if you run a hook right into the meat itself There are ingenious machines made which, however, are chiefly intended for haunches, particularly haunches of venison by which the whole joint is surrounded by thin metal rods expressly intended to obviate the necessity of sticking anything into the meat. These cradles, however, are very rarely met with. Some little ingenuity will be suflicient, however, for the purpose in point. All practical cooks know the difficulty of hanging a leg of mutton or a haunch on the spit. After an hour or so the joint, under the influence of the heat, is apt to give, and the thin bone adjoining the shank breaks away. Now by placing a small piece of wood underneath the bottom of the joint, and fastening a piece of copper wire to either end of the wood, and bringing it up to the top or knuckle end, the joint is supported in a kind of cradle. The copper wire, however, is veiy apt to slip, but by tying two pieces of string round the centre of the joint, this difliculty will be overcome. Again, in basting a jomt, that part requires most basting which is least covered with fat. Should, therefore, you have a haunch in which a part of what we may term the breast had the appearance when raw of being somewhat lean, then slices of fat placed over it, and tied on to it, not skewered in, or a few sheets of well-oiled foolscap paper, will have the efiect of checking the heat during the earlier period of roasting, and consequently will prevent the joint from having the outside dried up, a fault too often met with. "When the joint is very large, as, for instance, a haunch of venison, which may weigh perhaps twentyfive pounds, and consequently require five or six hours to roast, so important is it ?considered by good cooks to check the action of the heat in the eaiiy period of the roasting, that they cover over the haunch with a flour-and- water paste, by which means the whole joint gets thoroughly warmed through, and the outside is not burned, while the portion adjoining the bone is probably nearly raw. Of course, this paste must be removed an hour or half an hour before sending to table. The outside must then be browned, and at the finish frothed with a little butter and flour. There can be no doubt that the most economical institution in any kitchen is the stock-pot ; and it is in this respect that our French neighbours show their enormous superiority over ourselves. It is obvious that the larger the kitchen, and the greater the number of the persons to be supplied with food, the greater will be the number of odds and ends that find their way back from the dining-room. In private houses it will be too often found that huge plates of .what are ingeniously termed " broken victuals " are given to the dog, the greater portion of which, if placed in the stock-pot, would have been converted into most excellent soup. Now, it is unquestionably not agreeable to the English taste to use for culinaiy purposes bones that have been left upon plates. The economy of honing a joint for instance, & loin of mutton before cooking it, is very considerable, as the bones, which in the one case would have been left only half scraped upon the plates, are in the other converted into excellent soup. PRINCIPLES PRACTICAL APPLICATION. With, regard to boiling and roasting meat, we have already noticed that the great principle is to keep in the flavour by causing the whole joint or piece of meat to be surrounded by a thin rim, which rim has been rendered hard by the albumen contained in the meat coagulating under the action of heat. Now, this substance albumen is so important in all cooking operations, that we think it desirable to explain more fxiWj its natiu-e and its properties. One of the purest, and at the same time easiest, forms in which albumen is seen is the white part of an egg. We all know how liquid the white part of a new-laid egg is before it is boiled, but how solid it becomes under the action of heat ; for instance, compare a fresh egg just broken into a cup and a hard-boiled egg, and then remember that the liquid transparent part of one is albumen before it has sufiered from the action of heat, and that the solid opaque part of the other is albumen that has been, so to speak, changed by the heat into apparently a different substance. Meat contains in its juices a considerable amount of albumen ; when, therefore, meat is placed in boiling water, or exposed to considerable heat, as in roasting, the same change takes place in the albumen in the meat as in the egg. It will be at once evident how the coagulation of the albumen assists in stopping up all the little pores in the meat through which the flavour and gravy would have escaped. In fact, we may faii-ly compare a well-cooked joint to an ordinary well-boiled egg. It is generally known that an egg requires about three minutes to three minutes and a half to boil. When it is cracked, if done properly, the inside will be liquid, but surrounded by a coagulated film of albumen. This is just the same with a properly boiled leg of mutton ; the outside thin rim is hard, but the inside tender. Just as in. the case of the egg, had it been allowed to boil for twenty minutes instead of three, the whole would have become solid, the whole egg consisting chiefly of albumen ; so, too, with the leg of mutton, if it had been exjjosed to a boiling temperature the whole time, the albumen in the whole of the joint v. ould not merely have coagulated but would have hardened, thereby rendering the joint tough. As we have before pointed out, when once the principles of cooking are understood, one recipe will often lead to another. Cooking is an art a high art and cannot be learnt in a day, nor can it be learnt by simply reading a book on the subject. The study of cookery must be combined with practice. Now there is perhaps no part of this practice so important as the knowledge of varjjing recipes as occasion may require. It will be evident that no work on cooking, however large or however good, can adapt its recipes to meet the requirements of every family in quantity as well as quality. We have endeavoured, therefore, when it is possible, to give in ovir pi esent work different methods of preparing the various dishes, &c. ; but, of course, it would be impossible to give recipes, one adapted to a family of two, another for one of six, and another of twelve persons. We will illustrate what we mean by referring to an excellent recipe for preparing bechamel sauce on page 48. We have here recommended the cook to boil down an old fowl, three pounds of knuckle of veal, and three pounds of very lean ham. This is, of course, for the preparation of a large quantity. Now, we will suppose the case of a family consisting of but two persons, and say two servants a by no means uncommon occun-ence. Of course, to purchase such quantities for two would be extravagant to a degi-ee ; however, are we, say our newly-married couple, to be debarred from the occasional taste of sauce bechamel? By no means. If the cook is in possession of some little education and common sense, she would have no difficulty whatever in grasping the 2J' 'inci2)le of the recipe to which we have referred on CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. page 48. We will suppose the house to possess such very ordinary dishes as the remains of a cold fowl and a piece of boiled bacon. Now, suppose the cook to read the recipe carefully, and see in about what proportions the different iiigredients should be mixed. The carcase of the fowl is cut up and placed in a saucepan, with one or two of the bacon bones, which, being lean, form the best substitute for the lean ham. A little piece of veal say a quarter of a pound, or indeed a spoonful of gelatine would do must be added. Add to these a slice of carrot, or even the whole of a small one, a good slice of onion, a tiny piece of mace, one or two peppercorns, and add salt to taste. Let all these simmer gently for a couple of hours or so, and then strain it off, water having been added in a due proportion. Now, this stock would, of course, make excellent bechamel sauce, for the simple reason that every ingredient in the recipe has been used, the difference between the lean bacon bones and the lean ham being too trifling to make any material change in the flavour. If this broth be well strained and well skimmed, and every particle of grease removed, and then be simmered down to about three-quai-ters of a tumbler in quantity, it has, of course, just like the other broth, only to be mixed with an equal quantity of good boiling cream, and slightly thickened with a little arrowroot, to be equal in flavour and excellence to any bechamel sauce served up in a first-class large hotel. In many hundreds of the recipes we have given, and shall give, it will be the duty of the cook, in order to render such recipes practical, or, in other words, to make the recipe fit in to the exceptional circumstances of the family or place, to make such little alterations as we have described. Of course, in some instances, the quantities must be increased, such as in the case of large schools, and in others decreased. One of the first principles of cookery is, as we have already stated, economy ; and we will broadly define economy as the art of extracting the gi-eatest amount of nourishment out of the various' materials used, and not simply buying cheap things out of which to make dishes. For instance, poor persons will buy peas to make soup ; and having boiled them as long as possible in some water, with a piece .of bacon, will strain it off, and throw away the peas, thereby losing half the nourishment. A good cook would, of course, rub all the peas through a tammy, thereby rendering the soup twice as nourishing and twice as nice. This is an instance of want of economy, which we have said is more common in the cottage than the palace. STUDYING APPEAEANCES. In addition to the first and primary principle of cooking, i.e., of supplying the body with nourishment, there are two other important principles to be constantly borne in mind one is to please the palate, the other to please the eye. We have called them two principles, but in reality they are one, for the reason that the palate is pleased by means of the eye. There are some good old sayings pregnant with meaning, such as. " It makes one hungry to look at it," or " It makes one's mouth water." Have you ever obsei-ved a very hungry animal tied up, or iii a cage, just before it is fed, when a fine and to him tempting piece of juicy meat is brought in view 1 Making the mouth water is no figure of speech, but a reality that can be witnessed any day at the Zoological Gardens. I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin too soon to impress upon them the importance of appearances. For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is almost as easy to make an elegant dish as a plain one. Why not therefore do so on every occasion? The PRINCIPLES APPEARANCES. lettuce, (fee, inside, the sauce made as tliick almost as buttei', and spi-ead over the salad. A little lobstei' coral or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled with a few bright green capers on the white sauce. A few little strips of red beetroot added, and, if the salad bs a chicken one, a few slices of white chicken, stamped in the shape of a cock's comb, placed alternately with some similar shaped pieces of red tongue, placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies and stoned olives will be found an improvement. What a difierence to all the ingredients being piled together in a dish anyhow without regard to appearances. 1 will take another instance. In London, at times, in cheap eating-houses, will be seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together, going cheap. Does it make your mouth water even if you are hungry ? No. Suppose, however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice bright silver dish, and ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few thin slices of cut lemon the dish must be placed on a cloth as white as snow what a difierence ! Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in wliich it was originally cooked. The gravy has settled, and the whole joint is studded with wafers of fat ; the edge of the dish, too, is gi'easy. Suppose some stupid servant were to bi-ing up the joint just as it is. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting 1 On the other hand, look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with plenty of curly white horse-radish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes more tempting ; and yet, bear in mind, the difierence between the two is simply that of appeai-ance. Take, again, butter, especially in summer time ; the same butter on a smeary plate looking like pomatum, or in a bright cut-glass dish done tip into neat little pats, with here and there a tiny piece of parsley to set it ofi". I have known cooks exclaim " Oh, never mind what it looks like as long as it tastes all right." This is, however, a great mistake. Now, in boiling fish, not only should the cook endeavour to boil it properly, i.e., not too much or too little, but also endeavour to make the fish white. How, you may ask, can this be done 1 By bearing in mind that the colouring matter in fish is afiected and partially dissolved by acids. Suppose you have a large turbot. Before putting it into the fish-kettle, all you have to do is to rub the fat, white side of the tui-bot with a slice of lemon, the efiect of this being to render the fish far whiter when it is taken out of the water than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when you know the principle, it is a guide to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the fish out of the water, the scum floating on the top of the water should in every case be first removed, as it would otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy, not only the appearance, but even the flavour. In boiling all large white flsh, regard should be had to appearances ; no fish should be sent up quite plain. If the cook wonld always have in his or her possession a small quantity of lobster coral, a little could be easily sprinkled over the surface of the fish. It is wonderful how a fish is improved in appearance by such a simple means as this. If, in addition, some fresh parsley, cut lemon, and a few good-sized prawns are used by way of ornament, the fish that would otherwise present quite an ordinary appearance is made into a really elegant dish. This principle of " making things look white " will extend beyond the region of fish. For instance, good cooks will jjut a few di'ops of vinegar into the water in which they poach eggs. Why 1 For the simple reason that the eggs will look whiter ; the colouring matter mixed in with the eggs is more soluble in boiling water slightly acid than in ordinary water, and, consequently, poached eggs treated this CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. way will come to table presenting that snowy appeai-auce that renders them far more appetising not that they taste better, but that the palate is affected through the eye. COOKING A STEAK. As we have already adverted to those good old sayings current upon the subject of the principles of cookery, we would refer to that perhaps most common one of all, viz., " The test of a good cook is to cook a steak and boil a potato." Let us dwell for a few moments on the important dish in all English households " a steak," or a chop. I candidly confess that I think a chop or steak one of the very best tests of a good cook, for the simple reason that the proper cooking of either calls forth certain qualities on the cook's part, which nothing but experience can give. These qualities may be briefly summed up in the woi'ds forethought, patience, and common sense. In the first place, the state of the fire is of paramount impoi-tance ; and probably the chief cause of chops and steaks being, as a rule, inferior when cooked in private houses to those prepared in public establishments is the difficulty of maintaining a clear fire in the former. To attempt to cook a chop over a fire on which coals have been recently placed is simply an act of insanity. Here, therefore, comes in the quality of forethought, to which we have alluded. By keeping the fire bright, and supplying it with judicious ashes or pieces of what we may term home-made coke, much may be done to rival " the grill " of large establishments. We will, therefore, suppose a moderately bright fii'e, free from gassy exhalations, and also suppose the cook to be above the barbarism of even thinking of a frying-pan as an easier, and, with a view to the " grease-pot," a more profitable piece of machinery than the gi-idiron. First, place the gridiron on the fire for a minute or so, and then take it ofi" and smell it. It may seem to some absurd to mention such trifling matters of detail, but then cooking good cooking consists in constantly observing details. As we said, smell it, for the simple reason of flnding out if it has been properly cleaned. Suppose, for instance, it has cooked a bloater on the last occasion ; the heat will bring out the possible omission of cleanliness on the part of the person whose duty it was to see the gridiron put by in its proper state. Having, therefore, warmed it, rub it carefully with a piece of paper ; and let those who doubt the advice thus given go down themselves to their kitchens and try their own gi idiron, and observe the colour of the paper after this very necessary operation. If the gridiron has been used on the last occasion for fish, it will be found a good plan, after wiping it with paper, to finish with rubbing the bars with a small slice of onion. By this means a flavour highly objectionable is destroyed, and one that, even if detected, would do no harm is given. Suppose, thei efoi e, the gridiron clean, and the chop or steak placed on it. No advice with regard to time is here possible. The cook has to depend entirely on his judgment. The state of the fire, the size and especially the thickness of the meat, and also the time of year. A chop will require longer cooking in winter than in summer; and for this reason it is always advisable to have chops or steaks placed in the kitchen in winter for some hour or two previous to their being cooked. By this means, that nasty -looking blue appearance in the middle may often be avoided. . Next, cook the chop or steak quickly in the early period ; the i-eason of this to keep to our subject, the principles of cookeiy is in order that we may surround it PRINCIPLES CHOPS AND STEAKS. with that hard rim that keeps in the flavour. Next, do not be too much afraid of what cooks call "a flare." In fact, err, if possible, on the side of encouraging a flare. Sometimes it will be found advisable, when you think the cooking process is not going on sufficiently quick, to drop a little piece of fat or dripping into the fire to make a blaze. The end desired is red inside, black out. The difiiculty is to know when the chop or steak is done; and the only proper method to find this out is to pinch the meat. Uncooked meat is Jlahhy, over-cooked meat hard. A wellcooked chop hits on the happy medium between these two alternatives. The proper thing with which you should turn or test a chop or steak is a pair of cooking tongs made specially for the purpose. Whatever you do, however, do not cut it to look at it, for in this case you sacrifice all the first pi'inciples of cookery, and commit that most deadly sin for a cook, viz., you let out the gravy. Suppose, therefore, you pinch the steak with the tongs, or press it with the side of a fork on the gi-idiron, and it feels spongy ; this means that the inside is not simply red but blue, and that, therefore, it requires a little longer cooking. Suppose, however, it feels firm, not hard ; this means it is done, and the outside appearance of being black, which, for fear of being misunderstood, we will call being well browned, like the outside of a well-roasted sirloin of beef, should for this very reason have been acquired early in the cooking, as any further attempt to obtain colour would be attended with the risk of over-cooking and, consequently, drying up the meat. There are many things best cooked on the gridiron besides chops and steaks ; for instance, kidneys, mushrooms, tomatoes, bloaters, &c. ; but we would here mention one case of the use of the gridiron, not perhaps generally known, and tliat is of cooking substances wrapped up in oiled paper ; for instance, a slice of salmon grilled. It is, of course, at once apparent that a clear fire is here indispensable. Should any blaze exist, the paper would catch fire, and there would be an end of the attempt. The principles of cookmg, however, are here very clearly exemplified. Why should the slice of salmon be wrapped up in this oiled paper 1 Simply for the good old reason of keeping in the flavour. Just as in cooking mutton cutlets en papillate, all the flavour that would otherwise escape is by this means kept in the meat. To grill, therefore, properly, it is requisite that the cook should possess patience. It is no use placing a chop on a gridiron, and leaving it to look after itself for a few minutes. It may, for instance, stick to the gridiron a few seconds after it is put down; and the smaller the fire and the gridiron, the more likely is this to occur. To obviate this possible contingency, a push, if only to move the chop an eighth of an inch, is requisite. Again, if the chop appears to be cooking slowly, lower the gridiron to the fire ; on the other hand, if it appears to be doing too fast, raise the giidiron ; and, as we have before siiggested, if the browning process does not take place as it shovild, make a flame by means of throwing in a little piece of fat or a little dripping. In serving up a chop or steak, it should be borne in mind that, like a soufil'6, it should be sent up directly. A mutton chop to taste right should burn your mouth. This principle is well recognised in some of our public restaurants which possess their "grill room." You cannot warm up a chop or steak any more than you can warm up an omelet. In removing the chop from the gridiron, especially if it be in a flaring state, take care to let it rest for a few seconds in mid-air to let the fat drop from it, as, should it be placed on the dish just as it is, a little of the fat will nin ofl" it and give a greasy appearance to the dish that is for from desirable. Of course, too. CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. the disli on which the chop is placed, as well as the cover which goes ovei' it, should be made not merely warm, but hot. CLEANLINESS. Of all the principles upon which really good cooking depends, there is perhaps none so important as that of cleanliness. I would here remark in passing that real cleanliness is by no means so common as many would imagine, the reason being that often sei*vants do not know how to be properly clean. I will give one very simple example a wine decanter that looks dull. You will be told it has been thoroughly washed, and perhaps some brush inserted, with great difficulty and loss of time, down the neck. Stdl the decanter does not look bright. Suppose, however, the person in charge of the glass had been properly instructed a handful of silver sand jiut in the decanter with a little water what a difference ! The decanter, after being well rinsed so as to get rid of eveiy particle of sand, reassumes that bright appearance that it originally possessed when, sparkling on the velvet stand under the sunlight in the window, it tempted the passei'-by to enter the shop and purchase it. It may seem a I'ude statement, but nevei-theless true, that the ignorance of some persons, especially women, is simply unfathomable. There are cases on i-ecord in which attemjits have been made to wash greasy things without soda. Tliis ignorance is, of course, rare ; but, too often, cooks wash up incompletely for the sole reason that they will not use enough soda. Various causes for this will they assign. They say it chaps their hands, but I would remind cooks that very often they moisten their hands with hot soda and water very unnecessarily. It is easy, with a little management, to avoid strong soda and water touching the backs of the hands and wrists at all, and these are the pai-ts principally affected. A little grease, too, rubbed on the backs of the hands is a gi-eat protection. Another point often omitted is the washing of the lids of the saucepans as well as the saucepans themselves. The saucepan may be perfectly clean ; but mairy a dish has been spoiled by a dirty lid having been placed on it, the perhaps decomposed flavour of the last ingredients cooked in it dropping down with the condensed steam. Take, for instance, the case of a large fish-kettle which will take in a turbot whole or a salmon. Now, the water in which fish has been boiled will often turn to jelly when cold, and little pieces of fish are very apt to stick in corners, &c. I would strongly recommend eveiy cook, before filling the fish-kettle, to put it for an instant on the fire, just long enough to make it warm ; then smell the kettle ; the warmth will be sufficient to melt any little congealed particles that may by chance have remained behind. Many a fine fish has been utterly spoilt, and the fishmonger blamed when the real party at fault has been the cook. In speakmg of omelets I recommended either a new frying-pan or one that had only been used for omelet purposes. The reason of this is that, however careful the cook might be, the difficulty of absolutely cleansing the frying-pan, suppose, for instance, it had been used for the purpose of frying onions, is really greater than many persons would suppose. Now, a sweet omelet, in which the delicate flavour of vanilla assists, would be ruined by the slightest tinge of onion flavour. Let those who blame a cook for imperfect washing, themselves wash an old eau-de-Cologne bottle tlwroughly, cork it down tightly, and smell it at the end of a week ; they will then be the better able to understand how certain " flavours" possess the property of clinging to hard substances, such as glass, and will be more lenient when they find fault with others. PRINCIPLES SMOKE AND SMELL. Another important point in the principles of cookery for cooks to remember is, to avoid sending things up " smoky." Have you ever tasted a really smoky dish 1 say soup, and have you any idea how it is rendered so 1 for the only way to avoid the disaster is to understand the cause. We will suppose the house well ordered, the kitchen chimney swept regularly, the kitchen stove properly cleaned, and the soot regidarly and carefully brushed away, not only from the back and sides of the gi-ate, but from the outsides of the saucepans. Yet the soup comes up smoky. I will describe the performance of smoking soup. We will suppose the saucepan boiling gently on the fire, which is getting somewhat low ; the cook very properly puts on some coals, which, of course, causes the smoke to rise ; shortly afterwards she looks at the soup to see how it is getting on, or whether it is boiling too fast. We will suppose her young and careless ; and she replaces the lid with a bang, and, in so doing, shuts in some of the smoke into the saucepan. Alas ! the deed is done, and the soup, or indeed any other food, ruined, so far as taste goes. The moral of all this is. Bo not take off the lids of saucepans at all over a smoky fire. There are, of course, many persons to whom these simple elementary truths are so familiar that they may smile at the caution. On the other hand, however, they should recollect it is our duty to teach the ignorant and not the educated ; and we can assure our readers that there are in this country hundreds of so-called cooks, or we may say women who do the cooking, who have sent up dishes smoky from the very cause we have named, who have not the slightest notion of why they became so. Another way of rendering dishes smoky, even when the fire is fairly clear, is to rest the lid of the saucepan on the hob while its contents are being inspected. We would ask some young cook to rest the lid on the hob as we have described, and, instead of re-covering the saucepan, to smell the lid. The lesson would be a very practical one. In cooking, as in every other art and science, to be forewarned is to be forearmed. We have already called attention to the fact that the palate is considerably affected by the eye, so also is it affected by the nose. The best illustration of this is a glass of fine old Burgundy or Chateau Margaux claret, in which, in addition to the flavour, and the colour or brightness, we have the magnificent bouquet, which appeals to the palate through the organs of scent. Accordingly it becomes an important princvple in cooking to consider not only the flavour and appearance, but also to use the sense of smell as a criterion whether a dish is being properly prepared or not. Who does not recollect occasionally passing outside some large restaurant or first-class hotel and being greeted with a rich perfume arising through the railings, which somehow inspired perfect confidence in the dinner about to be sei'ved % On the other hand, has it been your fate to dine where you have had placed immediately in front of you a dish of greens improperly strained % To some persons of sensitive palate and nose a dinner is absolutely spoilt by a little contretemps of this kind. In the preparation of all dishes, therefore, the cook should constantly bear in mind the importance of using her scent as well as her palate and her eye. Many a good dish has been utterly spoilt by one of the many ingredients being bad which when added has contaminated the whole, which a very little care in smelling would have prevented. For instance, gravy that has been left, or the remains of beef-tea, is always added to the stock-pot or mixed up with the soup. Now it often happens, especially in hot weather, that little quantities of this kind turn sour, and cassell's dictionary of cookery. ill fact get putrid ! This is easily and instantly detected by smelling. Again, tlie flavour of anything burnt or smoky is best detected by the nose. Who has not at times had soup served that tastes smoky, or an omelette that tastes burnt ] Here again the nose is the quickest organ to detect the fault a very good proof of which is the common observation heard in the higher regions, such as the staircase or dining room, " Ah, there's something burning !" Sauce i iquant, if too acid, can be detected by the smell ; soup too greasy can likewise be detected by the smell, as well as dishes over-spiced ; but experience alone will tell when the nose can be used instead of the palate, and it must be borne in mind that good cooks never liQ&p tasting, as the result of that is invariably temporary suspension of palate altogether. KITCHEN MANAGEMENT. Another important pomt in the princij)le of cookery is the management of the kitchen. Now, of all the various points that comprise kitchen management, perhaps none is more important than what we will call "clearing up as you go along." Contrast a well-ordered kitchen with a badly-managed one at that trying moment that cooks call dishing up. In the latter you will find the cook with a flushed face and hurried manner, surrounded by a perfect chaos of dirty saucepans, dishes, spoons, basins, knives and forks ; and woe be to that natural enemy of the cook, the Buttons, who speaks to her under these circumstances. " There, don't bother me, I don't know which way to turn !" Who has not at some dinner-parties witnessed those awful pauses between the courses, and have quite felt for the hostess, whose utmost endeavours to appear unconcerned are but ill-concealed, and whose eyes turn anxiously towards the door tlirough which nothing seems to make its appearance % But if the mistress is to be pitied above, much more is the maid to be pitied below, whose flurry of agitation is increased by the footman's, " Come, cook, make haste, they are all waiting !" Now all this confusion arises from want of forethought. The good old maxim, " Never put off" till to-morrow what can be done to-day," never applies with greater force than in the arrangement of a good dinner. As far as possible let everything be arranged beforehand in proper order. The soup of course should always be made beforehand if possible, and be of a nature that will keep. There are so many little things that can only be done the last moment, that it is of the utmost importance that everything that possibly can be done before should be finished and i:)ut by. I will give an illustration of a dinner a very ordinary one in which the cook can have plenty of time to herself at the finish. Suppose now a long dresser neatly covered over with old newspapers, on wliich are stood in row cooking utensils as follows : Fu-st, a saucepan, containing mock-turtle soup ; second, a stewpan, containing say some stewed eels ; third, a tin of oyster patties ; fourth, a stewpan, with some haricot beef; here a saucepan containing some rich brown gravy, and another in which an onion reposes quietly imbosomed in bread-crumbs and milk. Now, all these things might have been placed there hours before dinner. Say the number of persons for dinner is eight. Now, on the dresser in front of the soup-tureen should be placed a pile of eight clean-dusted soup-plates, and a pile of eight ordinary plates in front of every other dish. We will supj ose two roast fowls PRINCIPLES MANAGEMENT. to be twirling round in front of the fire, and that the cook, when she put them down, took into her calculations the time it would take to consume the soup, fish, and two entrees of oyster patties and hailcot, and also the average length of delay common to the family ; for masters of families who have a trick of ordering dinner at seven o'clock, and coming home at half-j)ast, must put up with two alternatives one to have dinner regularly half an hour late, the other to have the dinner at times utterly spoilt, from nearly everything being overcooked. We might have added to our list a saucepan full of cold water, in which float sufficient peeled potatoes, and a basin of water, in which float some well-washed brussels sprouts. Now, if a cook arranges all these things a good hour before dinner, has a good clear iire, and everything round bright and clean and washed up, I defy her to get into a muddle. The soup-tureen and the vegetable-dishes must be filled with boiling water some time before they are wanted. If there is a proper plate-warmer the plates can be placed in it at the right moment, and ever3rthing will go straight. Some cooks, however, with such a simple little dinner to aiTange as we have described, would, from simple ddatoriness, get into a muddle just at the finish. You will perhaps find them skimming the gravy or making the bread-crumbs all of a hurry when it wants but half an hour to dinner-time. Another instance in which a little forethought will save a gi-eat deal of trouble is that of pouring a little boiling water into a saucepan directly it comes ofi" the fire and is emptied. "We shall have, another time, to speak of the enormous power enamel saucepans possess of retaining heat. Now, suppose the cook boils up the gravy, pours it into the hot tureen ready for it, and puts the saucepan down just as it is. The dregs of the gravy cake on as hard as ii-on from the action of the heat, and the saucepan requires three times more washing than if the cook had had the common sense to put the saucepan under the boiler tap for a second or two, and given it a i-inse round. Having now briefly pointed out in these papers the outlines of the fii'st principles on which good cookery depends, we will proceed to discuss these principles more in detail. In all large works on cookery it must be borne in mind that receipts are of necessity brief A certain amount of knowledge on the pai't of the cook must be pre-supposed. For instance, in cooking fish say, a fried sole the directions given would be " Egg and bread-crumb the sole," &c. In recollect once asking a person of good education (an M.A. of Cambridge) what he would do were he to egg and bread-cnimb a fish. He candidly confessed he had not the slightest idea ; and on being pressed for an answer, guessed that the best method would be to first boil the egg and chop it fine, &c. . . . Now, of course, this is ignorance of a certain kind, but a very common form of ignorance which,, indeed, does not deserve the name. Ignorant persons with a little knowledge of a special kind are very apt to laugh at others who, while ten times better educated and better informed than themselves, happen to exhibit a little ignorance on the special subject on which they themselves are informed. For instance, a carpenter's appx'entice would probably laugh at and feel great contempt for a man who should walk into his Avorkshop and be unable to pick out a jack-plane from the others. For all that, however, this man might be the most brilliant statesman of the age. Again, the greatest living scholar or historian might be svipi-emely ignorant as to the best method of cleaning pewter, and might very possibly be regarded in consequence as a fool by the pot-boy. We consider it therefore, necessary in our cassell's dictionary of cookery. present work to supply for the benefit of absolute novices a few simple directions and exj lanations which, if given in each receipt, would magnify the present work into ten times its present size. For instance, there is a story on record of a certain royal personage many years ago who remarked that he wondered how the apple?, were got into the dumpling. Now, why should an ignorant person any more than an educated one be ashamed of saying "It is all very well to say, Baste it thoroughly ; but what do you mean by ' basting?' " Probably any cook of exceedingly elementary knowledge would laugh at the idea of explaining anything so simple. On the other hand, a professed French cook might as well laugh at her for not knowing how to bone a turkey, or to lard a fillet of beef, or make mayonnaise sauce. In teaching cooking, as in teaching everything else, the gi-eat art for the teacher is to bring down his own mind and thoughts to the level of the pupil. We wish, therefore, in the present work to take nothing for granted. The greatest astronomer commenced his course of study by learning the axioms of Euclid, the first of which is the self-evident fact that " things that are equal to the same thing are equal to one another." There was a period in the life of Francatelli probably an early one when he did not know what it meant to baste a joint, and was ignorant of the fact that a greasy saucepan required soda in the hot water in order that it could be properly cleaned. GEAYY. One of the best tests of a good cook, in our opinion, is good gravy. Good gi'avy should be perfect in all the four following particulars : Flavour, colour, smell, and consistency. How very often, especially in private houses, do you get gravy or rather so-called gravy in the shape of thin beef-tea, or else it comes up resembling gruel not only in colour, but absolutely in taste ! In spealdng of gravy, we will first refer to the gravy that is naturally formed in roasting a joint; and secondly, to that far higher branch of cooking, viz., good gravy served in a small tureen with chickens, ducks, game, &c. First, the gravy naturally formed in roasting a joint say a, leg of mutton. We "svill compare two legs of mutton as they appear when sent to table, which we will call, respectively, the cheap lodging-hoiise leg, and the gentleman's-house leg. The first vill be generally sent to table surrounded with a thick greasy gravy resembling lightbrown gruel, and indeed differs but little in appearance, flavour, and consistency from the gravy generally sent up surrounding roast veal. The method pursued is as follows : First, the joint has been hung up before the fire in the usual way, a large pan (called the drijjping-pan) having been placed underneath it to catch the fat tliat after a short time always drops from a joint placed in front of the fire. The joint, having been roasted sufliciently, has been probably dredged with flour, i.e., some flour has been shaken over it from a round tin bo:x with holes in the lid. After a time, the woman cooking the joint has unhooked it, and placed it on a dish which ought to be a hot one ; she has then taken a basin and poured off" the greater portion of the fat in the dripping-pan into it, leaving the sediment or dregs in the pan. She has then poured a little water into the dripping-pan, and given it a rinse, and poured this into a saucepan or frying-pan ; but as this appears to her too thin, she proceeds to thicken it in the folloAving rough-and-ready way : She first adds to the contents of her saucepan a tea-spoonful or more of ordinary flom-, this latte:- being first mixed PRfiNCIPLES A ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. with a little cold water, and the whole is then briskly stirred with a spoon, brought to a boil, and poured over the meat. This is the ordinary elementary and most unscientific method of thickening gravy. There are many small families where the master of the house goes out early every morning, returning home to supper, and where but one joint is cooked a week viz., the Sunday early dinner. The leg of mutton is the usual joint, and is invariably prepared in the way we have described. Now, there are thousands of persons who prefer a leg of mutton cooked this way to any other, just as they would prefer a lettuce with half a jjint of vinegar with it, to one dressed with mayonnaise sauce from the hands of a Soyer. It is, perhaj)s, as well that all our tastes are not alike. The proper method of serving up the gravy is as follows : Avoid two things, viz., floiir and grease. Have you ever seen a spoon dipped in the gravy of a joint, and lifted '? On one side a film of fat hangs. Now, when I see this, the efiect on the appetite is exactly similar to a sudden lurch on board ship, when, after a little misgiving, you have taken your seat in the cabin at breakfast. We will suppose the leg, as before, sufiiciently roasted. Then take the dripping-pan carefully, and pour ofi" slowly from a corner of the dripping-pan all the fat into a small basin. At the bottom of the clear hot fat or dripping iir the dripping-pan will be seen a brown sediment. This is really the concentrated gravy, and the cook's object is to pour off" all the grease and yet retain the sediment. With a little care tliis can be done easily. Next place the tkipping-pan under the boilertap, and pour about half a pint or a little more of boiling water into it, and with an iron spoon simply wash off" all the brown sti'eaks and spots on the dripping-pan. These brown marks are really gravy dried up from the action of the heat, and very much resemble in composition what is known as extract of meat. Having stirred up all the water thoroughly in the well of the dripping-pan, the gravy can now be poxired through a strainer over the joint. This gi'avy should be clear and bright, and very nearly free from fat. Of course, some little amount of fat is unavoidable, and this will make its appearance in the shape of wafers during the cooling process which takes place during carving, but if proper care has been exercised the gravy will not be speedily covered with large cakes of fat, nor will that dreadful hanging from the spoon take place, with the result of setting you against your dimier almost before you commence. Some will say, however, " Ah, but you can't get the mutton nice and brown without flouring it at the finish!" First, I deny the fact if the fii-e is really a fierce one; secondly, if you use flour to brown the joint, I would suggest that it is quite possible to flour the joint without flouring the dripping-pan, by simply taking the latter away, and placing a tin under the meat for a little while. The joint can then be dredged, and pushed closer to the fire at the finishing of the roasting to brown, while the cook goes on with the gravy in the mamier we have pointed out. I have here again given the ordinary common way in which most cooks in fairly well-to-do families cook a joint. The gravy to a haunch, loin, or saddle of mutton is obtained in exactly the same manner. It is, however, an improvement to substitute a little broth I don't mean stock for the boiling water ; for instance, if there are some trimmings from the joint, including a good-sized bone, place these on the fire in a saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt, and let them simmer as long as you like, taking care there is little or no grease on the top, and use this to pour into the dripping-pan instead of the plain boiling water. If the gravy is wished to be particularly good, stock, i.e., broth made from meat, flavoured with onion, parsley, celery, &c., may be used in the case of a joint of beef, but it is reaUy CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. quite lumecessaiy. In the case of mutton or lamb it is absolutely objectionable. The great desideratum in roast mutton is simplicity. Hot and red from the gravy being in it, and not blue from being underdone, and served as simply as possible in its own gravy, is what the really simple English palate most prefers. Recollect the highest cooking is often the perfection of simplicity. Good beef and mutton give off, as a rule, plenty of good gravy. Lamb, veal, and pork but little; these three latter kinds of meat, which in passing we would mention requu-e longer cooking in comparison to then- size than either mutton or beef, should have a little gravy made separately. Only in the case of lamb, remember, have a very simple broth made from lamb-bones or mutton-bones, or it will overpower the flavour of the lamb. But in reality lamb does not want much gravy if it is brown and crisp, and has good wholesome mint sauce served with it. "We next come to the ordinary gi'avy for roast fowls, chickens, game, &c., the principal difficulty in the preparation of which will generally be found to be the thickening ; and as this question of thickening lies at the root of many failures, both in soups, gravies, and entrees, we shall have to dwell on it at some length. Gravy is made fi-om stock. It is, howevei', of course impossible to describe everything at once. We are of necessity compelled to use words such as " stock " without describing what stock means. We will treat the subject " stock " more fully another time, in addition to the ample and clear directions given under the letter S. We will briefly state stock to be the juice of meat beef, veal, &c. extracted by placing it in water, and allowing it to simmer slowly for a long time, extra flavour being imparted to the " meat tea " by the addition of various vegetables and herbs, such as onions, parsley, carrots, turnips, celery, &c. Good stock made in the old-fashioned way requires a pound of meat to every pint, and is consequently, oAving to the present increase in the price of meat, very expensive. On another occasion we shall point out various methods by which stock can be made without this allowance of one pound to a pint. Now stock, however made, although if done properly is a jelly when cold, is of the consistency of water when hot. By thickening we mean the process by which the stock is brovight, when hot, from the consistency of water to that of cream. A great many cooks, by means of having plenty of meat placed at their disposal, often succeed in the early stage of gravy, i.e., they get the stock good and strong, although of a poor colour. It is too early yet in our lessons on the Princijiles of Cookery to describe how good stock may be made to assume a bright golden coloru' by simply being left to make its own colour in the stock-pot, and consequently it will be more practical to show how to make a light-coloured stock into good brown gravy. We have already described the elementary process of thickening by simply adding flour; the next stage in advance is flour and butter combined. This Ls, perhaps, the most common of all methods. A cook will place a small amount of butter on a plate, and by its side a little heap of flour. She will place this plate in front of the fire for the butter to dissolve, and will then, with a steel knife, or if a trifle more advanced in knowledge with a spoon, knead the butter and flour together, add this to the stock, stirring it in till it boils, when the stock will become thick in proportion to the amount of butter and flour put in. By extravagantly using extract of meat, or colouring of some sort, such as sugar, or still worse, a colouring ball, a certain amount of brown colour is imparted to the gravy, which, if the stock is really good and well flavoured and the pepper not forgotten, will be by PRINCIPLES GRAVY. no means bad. What, however, is the drawback 1 The flour has been used raw, and a keen palate will detect the flavour we have mentioned and described as " oi-uelly." What, however, is the remedy for this 1 Let the flour be fried instead of raw ; or, in other words, instead of simply using butter and flour to thicken the stock, use brown thickening, or brown roux, as the French call it, and let me here tell cooks that in the end they will absolutely save both time and trouble by making some of this roux or brown thickening beforehand in a fairly good qiiantity, as when it is made it will keep for a very long time. We all know the difference in the taste of a piece of pie-crust before it is baked and afterwards one tastes of the flour, the other has a rich taste altogether different. Just such is the difference between ordinary butter and flour and brown thickening. In making thick mock-turtle soup, brown thickening is used to impart that rich flavour which is the characteristic of all thick soups. It would be a most instructive experiment to a young cook if she has a trustworthy taste to try the difference in the flavour of a little good stock or soup ; the one thickened mth ordinary butter and flour raw, and the other with brown thickening, which we will now describe how to make at somewhat fuller length than would be justifiable in a receipt which, as we have before said, necessarily presupposes a certain amount of knowledge. Suppose, then, a cook to possess some fine dry flour say half a pound the same quantity of butter, an enamelled stewpan, a clear brisk fire, and an onion. First place the butter in the stewpan, and melt it till it runs to what cooks call oil. It will be found that there is a white scum at the top, and a milky sediment at the bottom recollect, melt the butter, but do not boil it simply melt it. Skim the frothy top, and pour off what may be called the clarified butter, leaving the milky sediment in the pan. Now you have got rid of what is often called the milk in the butter. Next take the stewpan, and having wiped it clean, pour back the clarified butter into it, and gradually mix in the dried and sifted flour : tliis will make a sort of pudding, which will all cling together, and will not or ought not if proper care has been taken to follow these directions cling to the stewpan. Keep this pudding over the fire, and keep stirring with an iron or wooden spoon till it begins to change colour i.e., it will gradually from being almost white turn to the colour of underdone pie-crust or the covers of those old-fashioned books which treat of mediaeval times. As soon as the colour begins to change, redouble the stii-ring, and occasionally remove the stewpan from the fire for a few minutes altogether, in order that the flour should not be fried brown too quickly, for this is really all that is being done. It will be found that the butter and flour will go on boiling in the stewjjan for a long time after it has been removed from the fire ten minutes or more : such is the power enamelled stewpans possess of retaining the heat. Have ready, close at hand, two slices out of the centre of a good-sized onion about a quarter of an inch thick. Keep sth-ring the butter and flour till it is of a light brown colour, not quite so brown as ripe corn, then take the stewpan off the fire, throw in the two slices of onion, which have the double advantage of slackening the heat and of imparting a rich flavour to the thickening. This will cause a great spluttering, and care should be taken to avoid a few little splashes on the backs of the hands. Keep stuTing the mixture till all bubbling has ceased, and this will be longer than many would imagine. Pour off what will now be a rich brown fluid, which will assume the appearance of light chocolate when cold, into a deep dish old marmalade pots are as good as anything for use. It will keep for months, and is always at hand for thickening gravy. A good-sized table-spoonful of this mixture, CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. which is called, as we said, brown thickening, or brown roux, will, when mixed with half a pint or a little more of good stock, transform it into good rich brown gi'avy which only requires a few additions, varying with what the gravy is intended for, to complete it. If the gravy is intended for roast fowls, for instance, a little mushroom ketchup may be added ; if for game, such as a pheasant, a dessertsjjoonful of sherry. The effect of brown thickening in gravy is that not only is the gravy thickened and the raw flavour inseparable from butter and flour avoided, but that the important element colour is introduced or assisted. You may use half a dozen pounds of meat in making gravy, but if it comes up pale and thin it will be thought poor. The better the cooks the better do they understand the importance of appearances. Good thick mock-turtle soup owes its rich colour to this thickening, and it is because bi-own thickening is so rarely made, or the use of it so little understood in private houses, tliat home-made thick mock-turtle is so invariably poor, although the amount of real calves' head and not pig's head used in its preparation is probably double that used in an ordinary pastrycook's. One great advantage of having brown thickening is, that it is possible to make enough at once to last a couple of months. Gravy is constantly being wanted; and in the end the cook will find time saved by having the thickeniiig at hand ready made, instead of the plate, the dab of butter, the mixing, the uncertainty as to quantity, &c., which is their usual wont in melting a little butter and flour fresh for each occasion, the reason they melt it together being very properly to avoid the constant stirring necessary to prevent the gravy or soup thickened turning lumpy. As, however, we are on the subject of thickening, by means of brown roux, soups, such as mock-turtle, gravies, &c., it may occur to some to inquire How would you thicken white soup, such as Palestine soup, oyster soup, &c. ; or. How would you thicken cheap Bechamel sauce where no cream is used 1 Our answer is By usuig white roux instead of brown. But then white roux or white thickening is not necessai'ily butter and flour just melted together, which, as we have said, has a tendency to give whatever is thickened a raw and gruelly flavour. The cook will have observed in making the brown thickening what a long time it took before it began to turn colour in fact, her patience the first time was probably nearly exhausted, and she would very likely confess afterwards, flushed with-- triumph, that she began to tlmik the "stufl"" would never turn colour at all. Wliite roux is. simply, to use an Ii-ish expression, brown thickening just before it gets brown ; or, in other words, the grains of raw flour ai-e cooked, but not coloured. The difierence in flavour is as distinct as that of white pastry and dough. Now, it is evident that brown thickening is of no use when the substance thickened is required to be clear or bright. Brown gi'avy or thick mock-turtle soup are what may be called muddy, i.e., they don't pretend to be bright. There are, however, sauces, and even gravies, that should be thick, and at the same time bright and clear. Here, then, it is apparent that we must have some other thickening altogether. "We will take as a specimen that exceedingly nice-looking, and at the same time nice-tasting, sauce, called sauce Bordelaise, made from claret ; and as of course any ordinary sound claret will do for the pui'pose, in the present day of cheap French wine the sauce is by no means so dear as it would have been a few years ago. To make Bordelaise sauce, you must first have some very good stock, perfectly bright and absolutely free from fat. Take say half a pint of such stock, and boil it down in a small saucepan, in which has been placed one bead of garlic, PRIXCIPLES GRAVY. and a very little piece of mace and cinnamon, with just a suspicion of cayenne pepper. When the stock, by means of being gently boiled, has evaporated away till there is only one-thii-d of it left, strain it very carefully off, and mix it with nearly a tumblerful of claret, and warm it up. It will of coui-se be quite tliin. Next take a little arro-svroot, and mix it with a table-spoonful of cold water in a cup; stir it, and mix it in gradually with the sauce, which must be just simmering on the fire. As soon as the sauce gets as thick as prepared gum or very thin treacle, it is done. The sauce should, however, be as bright as claret itself. This sauce does for a variety of purposes, such as sweetbreads, boiled fish, or even cold meat may be cut in slices and warmed up in it. The advantage of arrowroot as a thickening is very marked in this sauce, as the brightness of the coloTU' is not in the least destroyed, and the exact consistency liked can easily be obtained by simply addmg a little at a time, and keeping the sauce well stii-red and simmeriiag. Recollect, however, in using an'owroot as a means of thickening, always to mix it -with cold water in a cup, and stir it up before taking any out, as the arrowroot will settle and cake at the bottom of the cup. Arrov root is the best thickening when clearness is desirable ; there are many kinds of gravies, however, which are necessarily clear, and yet which are ill-adapted to bear brown thickening. The gi'avy for ordinary hashed mutton is one. Colour can be imparted by browning a little sliced onion with a little butter in a frying-pan, or by means of burnt brown sugar and water, or toasted bread. This gravy is best tliickened with corn-flour or arrowroot, as mutton previously cooked is not savoury enough to bear the I'ich flavouring of brown thickening like roast goose, or duck, or fowl. Colouring from sugar is made by simply melting some coarse brown sugar in an old frying-pan till it looks like blood, and then pouring some boilingwater on it, and stii-ring it till it is dissolved. Colouruig-balls for soups, gravies, &c., are sold in bottles, and are made in France from vegetables, but they vary considerably, and sometimes impart by no means an agreeable flavour to the soup or gravy. Used with caution, however, they are at times very valuable, as a little piece will go a long way ; but I will defer going into the question of colouring soups until we enlarge on that most important branch of cooking, A'iz., letting stock colour itself, by being reduced to a glaze in the making, which is far preferable to any artificial means. There is one most important point which the cook should always bear in mind when bro-\vn thickening is used for either soup or gravy, and that is, removing the fat or butter which -svill always rise to the surface of the soup or gravy after boiling. Should this important point be omitted, the gravy or soupladle might possibly have a film of fat hanging from it similar to what we have already described as happening to the gravy from a roast joint when the cook has been careless in pouring ofi the grease. After the gravy or soup has been thickened, allow it to boil up, and then stand it on one side of the fire. In a A ery few minutes a film of grease from the butter in the thickening will make its appearance on the top, and requires removing; this must be repeated several times. The safest method is to allow the gi-avy or soup to simmer gently, when it vnll gi-adually what is called "throw up the gi-ease." If, then, when the liquid is simmering, it be occasionally skimmed, all fear of gi"easy gi'avy or soup is removed. The same process applies in using white thickening. Suppose you have thickened some Palestine soup, which is made from Jerusalem artichokes, allow the thickened soup to boil. The top "svill have a yellow, oily appearance, CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. owing to the butter in the thickening. This must be skimmed off; but even after all has been skimmed, by allowing the soup to simmer gently some more probably will be thrown up. Some cooks have an idea that if when they have made some soup they allow it to get cold, and then remove all the fafthat cakes on the top, that it is impossible for there to be any more fat in the soup at all. This is a great fallacy easily made manifest by allowing the soup, after the fat has been removed, to boil up again. On its getting cold a fresh cake of fat will appear if the soup was at all greasy. Soup made from pig's head will somewhat astonish a young cook on this point. We have already explained that the chief reasons for preferring brown thickening to flour and butter melted together are the appearance and the flavour i.e., the latter causes the gravy not merely to look gruelly but to taste so. It will of course often happen, notwithstanding that good care is taken by the cook to what we may call look ahead, that at times gi'avy will be wanted in a hurry, and yet no brown thickening is at hand for the purpose of converting the thin stock into thick gravy. In tliis case, a small quantity can be easily made in a very short time, which, though not as a rule equal in quality to that made in the way we Jiave described, will at any rate be far preferable to the ordinary plain butter and SLomy. The method is simply to melt sufiicient butter and flour together in a .saucer, place the saucer in the oven, and occasionally stir it ; the flom- soon becomes baked, which avoids the gruelly taste ; next, the flour soon becomes of a light fawn colour at the top, and after the saucer has been stirred a few times the whole quantity will assume the colour required. Indeed, some persons make brown thickening in large qiiantities m a pie-dish, and place it in the oven, taking it out at times, and stirring it. The stewpan is, however, we think, a far preferable method. We have in sj eaking of gravies confined our attention almost entirely to the thickening, which, as we have pointed out, is the chief point on which cooks break down. Of coui'se, the exact consistency to which gravy must be brought is another important point which must be left entu-ely to the cook's judgment. The advantage of havmg brown thickening ready is that only small quantities need be added at a time. The cook, consequently, has only to exercise a little patience, i.e., to stir the thickening well in, see that it is all dissolved and that the gravy boils gently, to avoid the common but unpardonable faidt of having the gravy too thick. Good brown gi'avy should be of the consistency of cream at the outside, and never thicker, if indeed so thick. It would be almost impossible to describe all the various methods of flavouring gravies in order to suit them to the dishes with which they are served, but we may mention here that there is perhaps no method of bringing out and at the same time adding to the flavour of good gravy equal to that of adding at the last moment a good slice of raw lean ham ; and when we say lean we mean a slice absolutely destitute of fat. Another very good addition to gravy iz part of the pulp of a fresh ripe tomato, especially when the gravy is intended for some dish with which tomato sauce would not be inaj)plicable, such as roast fowl. When a fresh tomato cannot be obtained, a spoonful of tomato sauce will answer just as well. We would, however, particularly caution cooks against the indiscriminate use of Worcester' sauce, as this particular sauce is so powerful that when used for gi'avy, unless added with the greatest caution, it is apt to overpower the flavour of everything else. Again, the stewpan or small saucepan used for warming up the gVa'vy can be iiibbed with a bead of garlic when the flavour of this latter somewhat strong flavouring is not objected to. PRINCIPLES STOCK. STOCK. In describing the general principles upon which aU good cooking depends, it -will be seen that we have dwelt at some length on thickening, and have described the proper method of making brown thickening, or brown roux, and white thickening, or white roux. We will next proceed to discuss the proper method of preparing stock, and the two chief stock sauces, viz., white sauce and brown sauce, which i-equii-e in their composition the white roux and brown roux, respectively. It may possibly be thought that a description of the proper method of making stock should have preceded the description of the thickening ; bear in mind, however, that in preparing any dinner, the thickening should be made before the stock, and also, that whereas there is but one method to be pursued in making thickening, there are necessarily many different ways of preparing stock. We have purposely, therefore, impressed upon our readers the great importance of making thickening in the way we have described, as upon it will, to a very great extent, depend the whole character of the soups, gi'avies, sauces, &c., the recipes for which are given in the present work. We will, therefore, presume the cook to have at any rate mastered this part of the subject before we proceed to discuss such an extremely important branch of cooking as stock. Stock is necessarily a branch of cookery approached by every one with the slightest pretension to any knowledge of the art with a certain amount of preconceived opinions. We would, by way of preface, however, remind our readers that the better the cooks, probably the more willing will they be to admit that they have much to learn. Cooking in its higher branches is a science, and the most scientific cook that ever served up a Parisian banquet could probably learn something new from the ignorant savage who chews strange herbs to help liim to digest the meat that his intellect has not sufficiently expanded to enable him to cook. Still the instinct of the animal, rather than the reason of the man, has advanced him at least one step towards a higher civilisation, and in his knowledge of the herbs he has something to impart that wise men would gladly learn. Thei-e is an old story that will, however, bear oft repeating, of one who, on his death-bed, in tliinking over the discoveries of science discoveries that he himself had done more than any in ages past or present to advance obsei'ved, that after ail he felt like a child who had been picking up pebbles on the shore of the vast ocean of knowledge. It is in such a spirit that all should approach a si;bject such as cooking none so good as not to be able to learn. But we must commence our stock, and as it is obvious that the method of preparing stock for say the Grand Hotel, and for a family consisting of only two, must be widely different, we will first describe how to make stock in large quantities. First, common stock, then the two principal stock sauces, broAvn and white, the first being used to make the other two. As, however, we are going to mention somewhat large and startling quantities, we would remind you that it is no greater extravagance to use 100 pounds weight of meat in making stock for 500 persons, than it would be to use the very moderate amount of two pounds of meat for a dinner of ten persons. In some large foreign hotels, where 700 persons sit down daily to the table d'hote, the preparation of stock, in quantities which, forgetting this fact, would appear ridiculous, becomes an every-day necessity. Besides, it is easier to learn princijoles from the wholesale preparation of any article than from the preparation of such small quantities, that CASSELLS DICTIONARY OP COOKERT, often little apparently unimportant matters of detail are omitted. In preparing stock, therefore, for a very large number of persons, we will suppose the following quantity of perfectly fresh meat to have been sent into the lai-der : Forty pounds of gravybeef, forty pounds of leg of beef, and knuckles of veal and two legs of white veal weighing probably about forty pounds. Cut away the meat from the bones, taking care to reserve those pieces of the veal next the udder that are suitable for fricandeau, &c., as well as the best pai"ts of the veal, to be used as afterwards directed. Then break up the bones small, and put them with all the trimmings of the veal into a lai'ge stock-pot, with the remainder of the meat, which should be cut up, and to which may be added a few turnips, carrots, celery, and leeks ; add also a little salt, but very little, and do not put any herbs or spices in by way of flavouring. The stock-pot should be tilled up with cold water, and put on the fire to boil, very gently, for about seven or eight hours. As soon as the stock-pot boils up, or rather, as soon as it begins to simmer, it should be carefully skimmed ; the stock-pot should be kept well closed the whole time, except when it is necessary to take oS the lid, for the purpose of skimming. Avoid having too fierce a fire, as should the stock boil up furiously, part of the scum which ought to rise gently, and then be removed, will be dissolved, and the consequence will be that there will be considerable difficulty in obtaining the stock clear. After the stock has simmered for the time we have mentioned it should be strained through a large cloth or sieve into basins, and put by for use, aU the fat being removed when cold. It may here be advisable to look, in a general way, at what is done to make ordinary stock. It is simply bones of beef and veal broken xip, and placed with the few vegetables mentioned, and a considerable quantity of gravy-beef and veal, for only the best pieces of the latter should be reserved, and the whole gently simmered for some hours, care, as we have said, being taken to skim at intervals, and to avoid fast boiling. What pi-obably will at once excite the attention of the ordinary cook is the absence of flavoui-ing, but this is the very point we would have them bear in mind. They too often in making stock simply make a highly-seasoned soup. Good stock should not be seasoned, as it may be wanted for a variety of piu'poses where seasoning would be objectionable. Recollect, soup is made from stock by adding flavouring, &c., to the stock; when, therefore, it is possible, make the stock as simple as possible, and add to it afterwards what is considered necessary, which, of course, will depend upon the nature of the soup or gravy that has to be made. We will now proceed to describe how brown sauce and white sauce is to be made in what we may call wholesale quantities. Take two large copper stewpans, and see that they are perfectly well tinned. Butter the bottom of each, and cover them with slices of thin lean ham, then add the veal previously saved, placing half in each stew ian, and put in one stewpan the carcases of some wild rabbits, the best part of the meat of the rabbit being resei'ved for some entrees, and in the other stewpan an old hen or the carcases of some fowls. The stewpan in which the rabbits have been placed is intended for the brown sauce, and the one in which the fowl has been placed for the white sauce. Pour m sufficient of the stock previously made to cover the meat, and place the two ste vpans on the fire, of course covered, to boil quickly. We now have to subject the contents of these two stewpans to a process very similar to the brown and white roux, viz., we have to allow one to cook till it turns a bright golden colour, and we have to remove the other from the fire just before it begins to alter in appearance. First, the brown sauce : what is necessary is to allow it to boil away till it becomes PRINCI PLES STOCK. a sort of gum, wliich \vdll gradually turn a beautiful reddish-brown; the great difficulty being for the cook to know when to slacken the heat of the fii-e. If the stewpan be allowed to remain on the fire too long, the glaze, for such is the stock when boiled down to a gummy consistency called, will become burnt, and the flavour of the stock very much destroyed. On the other hand, if the cook does not allow the stewpan to remain on the fire long enough, the proper colour will not be obtained, and the result will be that in order to attain that colour recourse will be had to colouring of some kind or another, which should always be avoided if possible. The cook consequently must cai-efully watch, and as soon as the glaze begins to tux-n colour must slacken the heat, and allow the glaze to gradually deepen in colour till it has that reddish-brown appearance we have desciibed; then fill up the stewpan with some common stock, and add to it a couple of onions in which a few cloves have been stuck, a carrot, a small piece of mace, some parsley, green onions, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme. Let all this simmer gently, taking cai*e to skim it from time to time after gently boiling for about two hours, strain the whole through a sieve, and put it by for use, removing every particle of fat when the stock has got cold. The white sauce being treated and added to in exactly a similar mamier, with the one exception that the glaze is not allowed to turn colour. Thus, the sauces should be quite clear, though it will often happen that perfect clearness has not been attained ; the clearing process we will consequently describe by-and-by. Sauces are, however, seldom required bright and liquid ; the bro vn roux and white roux must consequently be added respectively to the brown sauce and white sauce to render them the requisite thickness. Having added the roux to each in suflicient quantity to obtain the desired consistency, recollect to allow them to boil a sufiicient time for the butter contained in the roux to be thrown up, and removed by skimming. Both sauces can then be sent through a tamis or cloth, and put by for use, this last process rendering theni smooth and more velvety in appearance. We may add before going further that one very good method of ascertaining when the glaze is ready for filling up is to stick a knife in it, and give it a twirl ; should the glaze adhere to the knife, and be in that state that it can be rolled up into a ball in the hands without sticking to the fingers, and at the same time be of the desii'ed colour, it shows that it is sufiiciently advanced for the stock to be added. Now, in the preparation of all large dinners where a great variety of dishes have to be prepared, it would be impossible even to commence until a considerable quantity of brown sauce and white sauce are ready made and put by for use. In French woi'ks on cookery this brown sauce we have described is called sauce espagnole, and the white sauce veloute. Cooks will readily see that in cases where, perhaps, twelve or more difierent kinds of entries have to be made, what an enormous saving of time it is to have two such rich sauces ready at hand. Indeed, in all works on cookery it will often be found that directions are given as follows : Add a ladleful of brown sauce. It is evident that it would be impossible for the cook to commence to make, and go through the process of making, brown sauce for the sake of one ladleful. We have described how to make ordinary stock, and brown and white gravy, both thick and thin, ft-om raw meat, but it should be borne in mind that in all large establishments, as well as in small private houses, there is much left of cooked meat, bones, carcases of fowls and game, &i\, and which materially help to fill up the stockpot. The bones of large joints, such as sirloin of bsef, or haunch of mutton, ought CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. never to be thrown away, but should be added to the raw bones in the stock-pot. Indeed, meat that has been roasted materially helps to increase the flavour of good stock. When, therefore, we recommend carcases to be added, such as rabbits, fowls, &c., it is assumed that such carcases have been at any rate jiartially cooked, and the best part of the meat removed for other purposes. In cases, however, where an old hen or a very old bird, such as a partridge, evidently too tough to be eaten, is added, it is always best to partially roast it before placing it in the stock-pot An old hen that has been a most serviceable bird in its day, when it ceases to lay eggs, is, as a rule, far too tough for any pxu-pose save that of the stock-pot ; and old birds like this, that make the best soup, can sometimes be bought as low as Is. or Is. 6d. a-piece. In small houses, cooks should endeavour to do on a small scale what we have shown is done in great hotels on a large scale. First, the common stock, made from any bones and pieces of cooked meat left, should be put on with some gravy-beef and knuckle of veal, the best part of the meat of the veal being cut off to use in transforming the common stock into good soup or gravy. In choosing meat for making stock it will always be found best to pick ou t the very freshest-killed possible, and bear in mind that meat should never be washed before it is used. In fact, that part of the meat which contains the greatest amount of real flavour is soluble in cold water ; consequently, meat that has been washed would never make such good stock as meat that had not. "When stock has been made from fresh meat free from fat, and when there has been no great preponderance of bones, if care has been taken first, that the stock did not boil too furiously; secondly, that the stock was strained ofi" carefully and through a fine cloth it will generally be found that the stock will be clear enough for all ordinary purposes. Sometimes, however, it will be found that, notwithstanding every precaution, the stock will present a cloudy appearance ; or again, sometimes it may be wished that the stock should be not merely clear, but absolutely bright. When such is the case, the best method of clearing stock is as follows : We will suppose the quantity of stock required to be cleared to be two quarts. Take the whites of two eggs separated from the yolks, and be veiy careful that no tinge even of yolk be with them. Place these two whites in a basin, breaking up and adding the egg-shells if clean, and add neai-ly a tumblerful of cold water, and mix it well up till the whole froths on the top, then pour this into the saucepan or vessel in which the stock is, which ought not, however, to be boiling at the time. Mix it all well up, and place the saucepan on the fire to boil. While it gently boils, skim it thoroughly, then stir it all up again, let it stand some little time, and then strain it through a fine cloth, or, better still, a thick flannel jelly-bag. By this means quite cloudy stock can be rendered as bright as sherry, only bear in mind that every particle of fat should first be removed from the stock. We will now proceed to discuss the best method of making stock without the use of fresh meat at all. It should be borne in mind that in the present day the prices of provisions have so much increased, and also show such an upward tendency, that it is very desirable for every family throughout the country to do their utmost to save consumption of meat, thereby doing what little they can towards rendering meat cheaper to others who may not be possessed of so much wealth as themselves. Where the bones of joints that are left are thro%yn r.v ay and given to dogs, and fresh meat bought in quantities for making soup, it is evident that a large amount of nutritive PRINCIPLES STOCK. matter is absolutely wasted, which under other management would support the life of many starving persons. We Avill now take the very common case of a leg of mutton bone being left, and will desci'ibe how to tuni it into stock, though at the same time we must, of course, admit that the result would not be equal to the stock made from the fresh gravy-beef and veal. First, take the leg of mutton bone and chop it up into small pieces with a hatchet, and place these bones in a saucepan in cold water, with a good handful of fresh green parsley, a good large onion in which two or three cloves have been stuck, a carrot, or two small carrots, one turnip, if young but do not put in any in very hot weather, or when they are old and sweet one head of celery, or, if no celery is in season, a little celery-seed (about one-third of a salt-spoonful, or about enough to cover a threepenny piece), a small pinch of thyme, a little cayenne pepper, and a little salt; also, if they can be obtained, a couple of leeks. Let all this simmer gently for three or four hours, and then strain it off into a large basin. We ai-e sujjposing sufficient water to have been added to make the quantity when strained ofi" about two quarts. Then add to this a good tea-spoonful of extract of meat ; this will not merely have the effect of making the stock richer and more nutritious, but will also very materially assist the colour, as the leg of mutton bone was not in itself sufficient to enable the cook to boil down the stock to a glaze, and to obtain a colour by that means. By this method an exceedingly palatable and nice stock is obtained, that can be thickened for gravy with brown thickening, or can have various ingredients added to it, such as young vegetables cut up, macaroni, vermicelli, jfec, to transform it into excellent soup. Good stock, when it is cold, should form a jelly, OAving to the presence of the gelatine in the meat or the bones used ; indeed, stock made from bones alone will often be found to be a harder jelly than stock made from meat alone, owing to the fact that bones contain a great quantity of gelatine. Now, in making stock, we have referred to extract of meat one of the most useful of modern inventions that has not only assisted the cook but the doctor. Good beef-tea is in reality a very plain stock made from gi'avy-beef, without the assistance of the few herbs we have named. Beef-tea when cold, if properly made, is, like good stock, a firm jelly. Of late years, extract of meat has been largely used as a siibstitute for gravybeef, as a quick method of making beef-tea where the absence of meat, or lack of time, have rendered its substitution desirable. It is not our province to discuss the respective merits of beef-tea made fi-om meat, and that made from its extract. Medical men, however, are unanimous in their opinion that where the former cannot be obtained, the latter is a most valuable substitute. We will, however, show how stock can be made quickly say, at a quarter of an hour's notice without using not only gravy-beef but bones. We would first remind our readers that extract of meat when dissolved in Avater is a thin liquid, and however great the quantity of extract used, the mixture exhibits no symptoms of becoming a jelly. This is simply owing to the absence of gelatine. We will now take the extremely common case of a little stock being required at almost a moment's notice to make a little soup. Por instance, an unexpected stranger has arrived, when, unfortunately, the mistress of the house feels conscious that the dinner happens to be what is called a made-up one. Under CASSELL S DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. Die these circumstances the cook who can improvise an extra dish or two is a vahiable one; but as we are speaking at present on the subject of stock, we will confine our directions to the instantaneous manufacture of that necessary basis of all culinary oj)erations. We will suppose the house, or at any rate an adjacent grocer's, to contain some extract of meat and some gelatine. Most houses likewise have at hand a few onions and some parsley. Let the cook proceed as follows : Take an onion, and having peeled and split it in two, stick two or three"- cloves in it, and place it in a saucepan of water with a good bunch of parsley, a little salt and cayenne pepper, and a small quantity of gelatine about a quarter of one of those little packets generally sold by grocers for making jelly let all this boil till the gelatine is dissolved, and then strain it oif into a basin, taking care in straining it to press the onion and parsley so as to squeeze as much as possible the goodness out of them. If any celery-seed happens to have been in the house, a very little may have been added, only care should be taken not to put too much in, as the flavour is exceedingly strong. Having then strained ofi" this liquid, add to it about a tea-spoonful of extract of meat, and stir it all up till the extract is dissolved ; after which taste it as often as the addition of extract of meat entails the addition of more salt, and as extract of meat unfortunately varies both in flavour and goodness, it is difficult to give any exact quantities to be used. Wo now have a very fair stock, which indeed may be sent up as soup just as it is. It is, of course, perfectly pure from grease, and should be, if the gelatine be good, perfectly bright ; the stock is, however, by no means equal in flavour to that made from meat, and consequently a good cook would, if possible, take advantage of anything in her possession to impart a little additional flavour. Now, for this purpose, nothing is better then a few fresh tarragonleaves, or, if fresh tarragon-leaves camiot be obtained, a very small pinch of dried tarragon can be put in vnth the parsley, which will have the effect of imparting the flavour ; but it should be strained off with the onion, &c., whereas the fresh tarragon may be sei-vxd up in the soup. Stock thus made can, of course, have vermicelli or anything else added to it should a perfectly plain soup not be wished. There are, however, a number of persons who have the mistaken notion that a thin soup is of necessity poor. If by chance you are awai-e of theu* ignorance it is as well to remind the cook to thicken the soup, which can be done as previously directed in a very few moments by boiling in it a little arrowroot, mixed up and well stiiTed in a little cold water. When this is done, be careful not to over-thicken the soup, or the deception becomes too apparent ; enough arrowroot should be added to give the soup an appearance of thin prepared gum in consistency. Very often in private houses stock is made from the water in which mutton has been boiled. Now, of course, mutton will not make by any means the same quality of stock that beef or veal will, and consequently stock made from mutton should, when possible, be reserved for certain kinds of soup, such as oyster soup ; but we will refer to this subject more fully when we come to speak on soups in general, and will now conclude our i*emarks on stock with general directions for the removal of fat and grease, which is very often a great difficulty with young and inexperienced cooks. First, cooks should bear in mind that there are different kinds of grease one hard, the removal of which gives comparatively little trouble ; another soft, and held in solution by the stock, which is far more difficult to remove. To illustrate what we mean, we aWII contrast the stock made, say from boiling a leg of mutton, and that made by boiling a pig's head. If both are allov, ed to get cold, the mutton PRINCIPLES STOCK. stock will be found to be covered with a coating of fat as hard almost as wax, and the broth underneath will, when this fat has been removed, be entirely free from grease. Not so, however, the other; the- pork stock will likewise be found to be covered with fat, not so hard ; but when that has been removed the stock itself will still be veiy greasy. Again, stock made from bones containing gi-istle and soft fat, is often greasy, even after it has got cold ; so, too, with the liquor in which bacon or ham has been boiled, though nothing can be better than lean ham to flavour stock. When lean and fat is mixed togethei', the stock becomes often so saturated with grease as to be almost useless. When, therefore, stock is in this state, viz., that it holds fat in solution, the only method by which the fat can be got rid of is by placing the stock on the fire, and allowing it to simmer gently; while it is simmering the cook should from time to time carefully skim it. The longer this process is continued the freer will the stock be from fat. When butter has been in any way mixed with stock or soup, as in the case of using the brown or white thickening, this is the only method by which it can be got rid of again. In fact, cooks would do well to disabuse theii- minds of the fallacy that if stock is allowed to get cold the fat hardens on the top, and if this be removed that consequently it is impossible for a particle of fat to remain. Such is not the case, and as one fact is worthy fifty arguments we should recommend them to try the simple experiment, when they get a somewhat greasy stock, of letting it get cold, removing all the fat, and then putting on the stock to boil again for, say, an hour. They mil find that when the stock gets cold for the second time, that there will be almost as much fat settle on the surface as before. Another important little art in which good cooks ought to excel is the removal of grease from small quantities of stock or gravy "without letting it get cold, aiad without going through that somewhat laborious and wasteful process when only small quantities have to be dealt with of skimming. Some cooks have a great knack of blowing the grease off stock. Recollect, we do not recommend the custom, but simply refer to it ; the stock or gravy is poured out into a small basin, so that the surface of the stock is nearly on a level with the edge of the basin. In a very few minutes the grease will rise to the top, looking like oil floating on the surface. By blowing gently, this oil can be driven to one side of the basm, and by tilting the basin and holding it, say over the sink, by allowing a little to be blown over the edge, in a very short tune all the grease can be got rid of with, comparatively speaking, a very small sacrifice of stock. The method is ingenious, and very often resorted to by cooks. The objection is the natural one against blowing, many objecting to it on account of its not being an altogether cleanly custom. A better and perfectly unobjectionable plan is xising blotting-paper, or, indeed, any rather rough kind of paper, for the purpose. Of course, if there is any very large quantity of grease floating on the surface the best part of it must be removed by skimming ; as long as there is plenty of grease, then skimming is easy enough, but it is when the stock gets down to that state in which it is not covered with large pools of fat, so to speak, as large as the bowl of a spoon, but is dotted over vith little round specks of fat ranging in size from a pea to a pin's head. When the stock has got into this state, by continuous skimming the stock is wasted, and very little impression is made on the grease. Now, what is wanted is to remove the surface only. Get, therefore, a piece of white blotting-paper, or even a cleair piece of common brown paper, and let this just touch the surface, the gi-ease will adhere to the paper, and CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. using a few pieces of dry paper one after the other, the whole of the grease can be removed. This method of removing fat will be found to be particularly useful in preparing beef-tea for invalids. Beef-tea is often wanted in a hurry, and there is probably no time to allow it to get cold, yet it is of the greatest importance for every particle of fat to be removed, for nothing looks so bad as to see beef-tea by the bedside of a sick person covered with wafers of fat. The cook should consider such e circumstance as a positive disgrace. One very important point in reference to stock, soups, gravies, &c., is their preservation. Of course in cold frosty weather stock will keep almost for any time, but in hot weather stock is veiy apt to turn sour or high. Suppose you leave some stock in the larder over night a firm jelly, and the weather say is very warm; if in the morning when you come down you find it has altered in appearance, and instead of being a jelly it looks watery in some parts and lumpy in others, you may rest assured that the stock has turned bad. There is, however, one method by which stock can be preserved far longer than it otherwise would be, and that is by being boiled up afresh every day. In mnter this is not necessary, but in summer should any stock, soup, or gravy be left, and a day pass without its being wanted, the cook should always put it in a saucepan, boil it up, and then place it in a fresh clean basin, and when cold, or nearly so, put it back in the larder or safe where it is generally kept. I say when it is nearly cold advisedly, for cooks should always avoid putting hot stock or soup in the larder where other things are kept. In the first place, the heat tends to raise the temjjerature of the larder, and still worse, the steam that rises from the hot stock has a tendency to make the larder foul, besides probably affecting the flavour of some of the other dishes. Before leaving the subject of stock there is one more kind to which we would refer, and that is fish stock. Few persons ai'e aware how exceedingly nutritious a stock can be made from fish. For instance, from a turbot. Very often the water in which a large turbot has been boiled when it gets cold is firm jelly. In preparing fish stock as a basis for fish soups of various kinds, it will be found best, if possible, to have half the fish from which the stock is made fresh-water fish and half sea-fish. In preparing the stock the greatest attention should be paid to the skimming. Fish contains a large quantity of albumen, which, being disengaged, ooagulates and rises to the surface, carrying with it many of the little impurities of the fish ; this should be skimmed off" as it rises. In straining off the stock after the fish has been removed, for in almost every instance of making fish stock the fisji is taken out and eaten separately, care should be taken not to empty the fishkettle down to its dregs. After the stock has been strained ofi* it should be put on again to boil partly away, an onion with three or four cloves in it and a little parsley being added, some salt, of course, having been put in Avith the fish. The stock should also have added to it an anchovy, pounded thoroughly in some Tjutter; this should be added to the stock and dissolved in it; the anchovy having an extraordinaiy effect in bringing out the flavour. Should there be any oU, for fishes do not give off" grease, it should be carefully taken ofi". If codfish is part of the fish used for making the stock, the cod's liver should be boiled separately, as that gives ofi" a very large quantity of oil, cod-liver oil, in fixct, which would have the effect of rendering the stock exceedingly disagreeable. Recollect, however, that fish stock, especially in hot weather, will not keep. PRINCIPLES SOUP. SOUP. We now come to consider soups in general, and we will divide them into three classes clear, thick, and purees. Clear soups are, of course, as the word implies, bi'ight as well as thin ; thick soup is generally of the consistency of ordinary cream, or not quite so thick, and is, of course, not transparent. By a puree we do not necessarily mean a soup of a thicker consistency than ordinary thick soup, but we would distinguish between thick soups and pui-ees as follows : A thick soup owes its consistency to the addition of some artificial thickening, such as brown roux, arrowroot, &c. ; a pur e owes its consistency to the fact that the ingredients have been rubbed through a tamis or a wii-e sieve. This latter distinction is of the utmost importance. Unfortunately, we have no English word that conveys exactly the same idea as the French word puree, and consequently we are often obliged to use the Avord soup where the word pnr e would convey a better meaning. For instance, pea-soup should really be called puree of peas ; Palestine soup, puree of artichokes. As we have already described how to make good strong stock, and also how to clear it, our remarks with regard to clear soup must be almost entirely confined to the ingredients that are added to the stock, and give rise to the various names by which soups are distinguished. For instance, vermicelli soup is simply vermicelli boiled in stock, maccaroni soup is maccaroni boiled in stock. The best method of preparing these and all soups will be found under the proper headings in another part of the present work ; but I would remind cooks of the general principle to be observed in adding these ingredients to stock, and that is, cleanliness. Whenever maccaroni, vermicelli, pearl-barley, &c., have to be added to soup, they should invariably be at any rate partially boiled in plain water first, in order that the outside diity part may be washed off by being dissolved. To illustrate the importance of this point, I would mention that very common invalid beverage called barley-water. How many of my readers are there but can call to mind diinking barley-water from a tumbler by their bedside, and being disgusted with a dirty sediment at the bottom of the glass 1 Now, is the cook to blame for this 1 Undoubtedly. Had she been properly instructed, she would have partially boiled the barley, and thi'own away the first water, and then have placed the clean- washed barley, with its dirty film removed by being dissolved, into fresh boiling water. It is of no use to wash vermicelli, maccaroni, barley, &c., in cold water to clean it, it must be boiled; and in the case of maccaroni of all kinds and vermicelli it is best to boil it in plain water till it is tender, and then add it to the stock. Of course, in the case of an ingredient like barley where it is added to broth to increase its nourishment, it should only be boiled siifiiciently long to ensure all the ou.tside being dissolved, so that perfect cleanliness may be obtained. How many cooks are there who can call to mind the following misadventure with the soup ! They have got the stock as ' bright as sherry, they have added the vermicelli, and it has turned, not thick, but cloudy the reason being that they did not boil the vermicelli in water separately. We next come to that very large variety of soups that contain vegetables, the best one to take as a type of the class perhaps being spring soup. Spring soup is simply a number of vegetables boiled in stock; such vegetables as turnips, celeiy, carrots, small spi'ing onions, cauliflowers, asparagus tops, green peas, &c. Now when we come to speak generally on the principles of boiling vegetables, we shall have to explain the importance of leaving plenty of room for the steam to escape, in order to ensure a good colour being CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. attained. These vegetables, therefore, should not be thrown into the stock dii-ect, but into boiling water first. By this means, besides perfect cleanliness being guaranteed, the vegetables will look brighter than they othei'wise would do ; and we all know the difference between soup in which the carrot is a bright red and the peas a bright green, and soup in which the former is a dirty brown and the latter a dirty yellow. I would here, iu passing, observe that many English cooks imagine that spring soup and Julienne soup are the same thing. In properly-made Julienne soup the vegetables should be first stewed in a little butter in a stewpan till they begin to slightly turn colour, or, in other words, till they just begin to brown ;- then the stock is added, as well as a little sugar. Owing to this difference in the preparation, the flavour is matei-ially altered of course the butter is thrown up by boiling and removed by skimming. We will next discuss that exceedingly delicious soup known as clear mock turtle. An excellent receipt is given in its proper place. I would, however, remind the cook of the importance in making clear mock turtle of having the flavouring herbs in proper proportions. Sweet basil should form quite one-third of the whole quantity, and marjoram, lemon-thyme, and winter savour}"should make up the other two-thu'ds. We will suppose, of course, that as a rule calf's head is used to make the soup, though a very excellent imitation can be made by using pig's head instead. Cayenne pepper should also be used, and not black. But we will not enter into the whole details of soup making which, as we have said, will be found elsewhere, but will say a few words on the general principles to be remembered when adding wine to soups. A very rich, glutinous soup like mock turtle, or of course still more like real turtle, will bear a large quantity of wine. - Madeira is by far the best, but good sherry will answer the same purpose. And here I would strongly appeal to the mistress of the house against the folly of using, not cheap sherry, but some extraordinary compound that is not sherry at all, for cooking purposes. Bad sherry will no more make good soups or jellies than bad eggs will make good puddings or custards. We shall have to speak of this latter point in another place, but will keep to the sherry. Suppose you have been making some excellent soup from the half of a calf's head, or from some dried turtle flesh, which makes such splendid soup if you only have the patience to soak the flesh for two or three days, and boil it steadily for two more. Why should you spoil this soup absolutely spoil it for the sake of saving the difierence between the price of half a pint of good sherry and half a pint of some decoction sold imder the same name 1 There is a good old saying that is most appropriate " It is no use spoiling the ship for the sake of a ha'porth of tar." Do not let me be misunderstood on this point. I do not for one moment mean that it is necessary to have old-bottled wine or wine of any particularly good vintage, but what I mean is, it must be wine, and what I maintain is, that too often what is put in soups is not Avine at all. The best sherry foi' the purpose is golden sherry, and not a pale dry wine. Since the vineyards at Madeira have recovered, it is quite possible to get a cheap rich full wine, not fit to drink in fact at present, but nevertheless the very thing for soup. I should be glad if some of my readers would try the following experiment: Have some good clear mock turtle soup made ; taste it before the wine is put to it suppose the qixantity to be three quarts. Add a tumblerful of madeira, and then tfiste, and let them ask themselves whether the difference in the flavour is not well woi'th the money. PRINCIPLES SOUP. There are several soups that will bear, and be very mucli imijroved by, the addition of sherry, and we would mention soup made from calves' feet or ox-feet, giblet soup, and soup made from any kind of game. A very good rough test of the value of adding sherry to mock-turtle soup is a pastrycook's. Let any one order a basin of soup and a glass of sherry for lunch, and add a table-spoonful of the shexTy to the soup the lesson learnt will be worth the probable eighteen-pence paid. While on the subject of adding \Ane to soups I would mention hare soup, which is not really, or should not be, a thick soup, though of course it could not be called clear. Hai-e soup requires port wine, and not sherry, and of course the same observations that applied to sheny apply to the port. If you cannot afford or obtain real port, don't put in any bad wine to spoil the hare. In France Burgundy is used for dressing hare; but in England the imitation port is, if anything, a more horrible compound than the imitation sherry. What the effect of adding this compound to hare soup would be I camiot say, beyond that it would be as certain to spoil it as an equal quantity of blacking would. Hare will bear a large quantity of port wine. One of the greatest living cooks recommends half a bottle of port wine to one single hare. This is extravagant; but there is no doubt that the soup would be all the better for it. I would here mention the fact that whenever port wine is used in cooking, a few cloves, a very little piece of cinnamon, and a little lemon-juice may always be added with advantage. The gi-eat secret of success in making good hare soup is rubbing the meat well through a tamis, or wire sieve. The best part of the meat should of course be kept to add to the soup after it is made, while all the bones, &c., should be well stewed, and after the bones, which have been boiled till they are dry and white, have been taken out, all the meat and celery with which they have been boiled should be rubbed through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon. Hare soup requires no thickening. Mulligatawny soup is another not exactly thick soup, and yet not a puree, but a mixture of the two that we may here allude to, though perhaps a little out of its proper place. Here again the secret of success is patience in rubbing the fried onion, apples, &c., through the tamis; but we will speak of the tamis more fully when we come to " Purees." There is one little point in which mulligatawny soup differs from others, and that is, it requires sour apples in its composition. Of course apples, especially sour ones, cannot always be obtained in spring. There are few points in which a knowledge of the priixciples of cookery becomes more beneficial than when such knowledge enables the cook to substitute one ingredient for another. Ingenuity on the part of the cook on this point is a crucial test of excellence. Suppose the time of year is such that no apples can be obtained, the probability is that young green goosebex'ries are in season; by substituting a few of these for the apples, that peculiar twang in good curry or good mulligatawny given by the apples can be obtained. With regard to thick soups in general, little need be said beyond that, as a rule, the only difference is the addition of brown or white roux. We must, however, again remind our readers, as we have done before, almost ad nauseam, of allowing the soup to boil and throw up the butter, which must be removed by skimming. Soups thickened by arrowroot, corn-flour, plain flour-and-water, do not require this skimming. The common mistake into which inexperienced cooks fall in making thick soup is making it too thick. By adding too much brown roux the flavour of the soup itself is overpowered. Again, in usino- arrow CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. root for thickening, if care be not exercised the soup will be rendered the consistency of a pudding rather than a soup. Recollect, in thickening soups, gravies, &c., the full effect of the thickening added is not felt till the soup or gravy has boiled up for a minute or two; what, therefore, is most requisite is that the cook should possess that quality which of all others I regard as a siiie qud 7wn for success, viz., patience; and, to proceed to pm-ees, I will commence with a remark that sounds like a proverb, viz.. Patience makes the puree. I doubt if of all the trying ordeals a good cook has to undergo throughout the year, whether any is so trying as that of standing over a large wire sieve, wooden spoon in hand, endeavouring to coax the contents through. Let cooks, however, rest assured that this is not labour spent in vain. Take, for example, really good Palestine sovxp. ' We will suppose the artichokes, say a quarter of a peck, to have simmered and got soft ill a couple of ovmces of butter, and that proper care has been taken to prevent them getting brown. We will then suppose them to have been boiled gently in say a quart of good strong white stock, and a bay-leaf added to improve their flavour. Now the whole must, be rubbed through a tamis, or wire sieve, otherwise the soup will be poor. However, rub it through, and add half a pint of boiling cream, and you will have a soup that you need not be ashamed to set before the most particular person in the world. By-the-by, if the artichokes Jerusalem ones, of course are not very young, add a little poxmded white sugar to the soup at the finish. Carrot soup, turnip soup, vegetable-marrow soup, chestnut soup, pea soup, greenpea SOU}?, potato soup, asparagus sovip, &c. &c., are all alike in one respect, and that is, the one secret of the soup being good is the amount of perseverance displayed in rubbing the ingredients through the tamis. In inibbing these ingredients through, the cook will often find it advisable to scrape the tamis or wii'e sieve underneath, as the puree will cling to the bottom of the sieve after being worked through it with the spoon. It will also be necessary from time to time to moisten the contents of the sieve with some of the liquid part of the stock that has run through it. However, much allowance should be made for women cooks, who perhaps, unassisted by a kitchen-maid, have to prepare soups of this description. A considerable amount of time must necessarily be spent, and a considerable amount of strength expended, in order to obtain a satisfactory result. In large kitchens, where a man cook superintends, and perhaps two or three young men assist, there is, of course, no difficulty ; but where only a woman unassisted has to manage the whole dinner, it should be the duty of the mistress to avoid ordering, as is often done through mere thoughtlessness, many dishes, all of which require a certain amount of manual labour in their preparation. For instance, green-pea soup, whipped cream, and mayonnaise sauce in one dinner would overtask probably the powers of any woman cook unassisted. Most of these vegetable soups and purees are very much improved by the addition of cream, and it will be generally found that boiling cream is ordered to be added. This distinction is important : not merely is the risk of curdling avoided, but the flavour is difi"erent. All know, for instance, how diflferent coflee tastes that has had boiling milk added to it instead of ordinary milk. Just so with cream ? when cream is used to be added to soup of any description, boil it separately before adding it. Now of course in ordinary private houses cream is far too expensive tu be used often, and indeed in London to be used at all, except in small quantities. PRINCIPLES BISQUE. Milk is a very obvious substitute for cream, especially if a yolk of an egg be added to it, but care must be taken in adding this yolk, or the soup will get ciu-dled. We "svill suppose, therefore, you are recommended to add a pint of boOiag cream to some soup, and you are going to substitute milk and a yolk of an egg instead. If possible, allow the soup to reduce itself by boiling, and you can then add more than a pint of milk. However, boil this milk, taking the usual care that it does not boil over, which milk seems particularly fond of doing, and pour this boiling milk through a strainer into the soup ; next, have ready the hot soup tureen and the yolk of egg; just before serving up the soup, throw the yolk into the tureen, take a spoonful of the soup out of the saucepan and throw it in, and beat it up with the yolk, add a few more spoonfuls, one at a time, to the tureen, and mix in the yolk thoroughly ; then pour in the remainder of the soup, which should not be absolutely boiling, though thoroughly hot. The effect of this milk and egg will be very similar to a pint of cream, but of course much more economical. When cream or milk is used for these white vegetable soups or purees, a bay-leaf and a suspicion of nutmeg may be added. Only be careful with the nutmeg : a very, very little will go a long way, and too much would utterly ruin the soup. Before leaving the subject of soups, there is one I should like to describe, because it is supposed to be a rare and recherche dish, but is in reality very simple, and can be made without much trouble I refer to bisque made from crab. When the weather is not too hot, and crabs are cheap, take a nice heavy crab that is not watery, and pick out the meat from the claws iiito shreds with a couple of foi-ks. Then take the soft inside of the back, and pick out all the meat from the rest of the crab, and pound it thoroughly in a mortar with a little boiled rice {about half as much boiled rice as there is crab) ; add some good stock and cayenne pejjper, and rub the whole through a tamis ; add some boiling cream, and the shredded meat from the claws at the last moment, just before serving, only take cai*e not to let the bisque boil. Bisque of lobster, bisque of crayfish, is ninety-nine times out of a hundred made principally from crab, and if yovi can get some lobster butter to colour it no one can tell the difference. Lobster butter is simply the coral of lobster pounded with a little butter and cayenne pej)per : it is a beautiful colour, and looks like vermilion paint. This will easily dissolve in soup and turn it a bright red. Lobster sauce and shrimp sauce both i-equire lobster butter. Before leaving the subject of soups, I would refer to that somewhat modern invention -soups preserved in tins. To maintain that tinned soups are equal to those properly made from fresh meat would of course be ridiculous ; but the invention is most useful, and, in cases of long voyages, &c., most valuable. A tin or two of soup in the house has always this advantage it furnishes an extra dish at almost a moment's notice for an unexpected guest. I will now proceed to explain how these tinned soups may be utilised and improved, if their contents are found to be not quite what was expected. Unfortunately, preserved soups differ immensely from one another in quality. I have no doubt, however, in time some means will be taken possibly by Government inspection so that unifonnity of quality can be ensured. Very much, however, can be done by the cook to transform these soups from a flavourless coiicoction to a really nice soxip, only recollect I do not mean that all soups preserved in tins require what cooks call " touching-up," bxit only that some do. Take, for instance, that most commonly-liought soup mock turtle. If the tin is a good one, and the weather CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. not extremely hot, the sou]) when the tin is opened will be a hard jelly. It only requires warming up ; but if, on tasting, it appears poor and looks thin and of a bad colour, very much can be done in a few moments to improve it, both in flavour and appearance. A table-spoonful of brown thickening or roux will render it darker and thicker, a little extract of meat or a small piece of glaze will give a better flavour, and last but not least, half a wine-glassful or a little more of faii'ly good sherry will transform it, as if by magic, into excellent mock-turtle soup. Almost any soup is improved by the addition of extract of meat, whether it be thick or thin. Hare soup, again, when in a tin, of course requii-es port wine instead of sherry. Mulligatawny soup is wonderfully improved by the addition of a little curry paste, such as Ca,ptain White's. A short time back I referred to the advantage of keeping a cei'tain kind of stock to make certain soups, and mentioned mutton stock for making oyster soup. Excellent oyster souj) can be made from tinned oysters, and, as we are speaking of tinned soups, I will take this opportunity of describing the principles to be observed in making oyster soup from tinned oysters instead of fresh, which, considering the extraordiirary price now charged for oysters, is really the only form of obtaining oyster soup when any regard whatever is had for economy. We will suppose, therefore, the stock, or rather the liquor left, in which a leg of mutton has been boiled. Now tliis liquor will make poor soup as a rule, but will make good oyster soup by means of a tin of oysters, which costs less than sixpence, and the addition, if possible, of about three-pennyworth of cream, which latter will be found a vast improvement. Fii-st reduce the stock by boiling, i.e., let it boil gently on the fire till rather less than a quart is left. Of course, care must be taken previously that every particle of fat has been removed. Next, take the tin of oysters, and having opened it, pour the liquor off" the oystei's through a strainer into the stock, keeping back the oysters in a basin ; add a bay-leaf, a little cayenne pepper, some boiling milk or, of course still better, cream ; thicken the soup with a little white roux or plain raw butter and flour. Allow it to boil gently, so as to throw up the butter, which must be skimmed off", then add a good tea-sjioonful of anchovy sauce, without which the soup will be very flavourless; pour this soup on to the oysters, which must be placed just as they are in the tureen. They are, in fact, over-cooked already, and rather tough, but the soup will be of a strong oyster flavour, and quite equal to that made from fresh oysters, so far as the soup itself is concerned. It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary for me to remind you that soup, like stock, will be preserved in hot weather better by being boiled up fresh every day, and also that soup that has had cream added to it is very apt to turn sour. Consequently, when it is possible, just sufficient should be made for the day. In conclusion, I would add that a little and good is far better than an enoi-mous quantity and poor. I fear in summer time it is a very common thing for cooks to make soup in such quantities that half of it is nearly always wasted. FISH. We will next proceed to discuss the general principles to be borne in mind in cooking fish ; and as before fish is cooked it is of the utmost importance to see that it is perfectly fresh, we will commence with choosing fish. Fortunately, fish when not perfectly fresh soon tells its own tale. Now, some kinds of fish will keep far better than others, just like meat. For PRINCIPLES FISH. instance, a piece of silver-side of beef will keep perfectly good whei-e a shoulder of mutton or, still worse, a shoulder of lamb would get bad. So, too, with fish : a solid fish like turbot or salmon will keep much better than fish like whiting, eels, or whitebait. There is one fish, viz., red mullet, that is absolutely better for bein"' kept. In choosing fish, care should be taken not to judge too much by first appearances. A boatful just fi-esh out of the water, smeared with blood, look much less inviting than those exposed for sale on a fishmonger's slab, yet in reality these latter are the same fish a day or two staler. Perhaps the best general directions for picking all fish is choose the plump ones. Thick soles or thick turbots are ftir preferable to thin ones ; so, too, with cod-fish. A short fish, with thick shoulders, will always be found better than a long and rather thin fish. When the scales of a fish rub ofi" easily it is generally a sign that the fish is somewhat stale. The gills, too, of fresh fish are bi'ight and clear ; and when the fish gets stale these gills turn a darker colour, and look dull. Fish, too, that has been kept in ice for long is of very inferior flavour to fish fresh caught. We will begin with boiled fish, and run through the general principles to be observed in boiling. First, a very common fault with cooks is that they omit to put sufficient salt into the water in which the fish is boiled. In boiling large fish, such as cod, salmon, &c., where the backbone is exposed after the fish has been cleaned, it will be found to be a good plan to rub the bone with a piece of salt. The fish should then be placed gently in a large fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. Salt should be added in the proportion for large fish of nearly half a pound of salt to a gallon of water ; the minimum of salt should be six ounces to a gallon. In the case of small fish, such as mackerel, small plaice, &c., a quarter of a pound of salt to the gallon will be sufficient. Most fish should be placed, as we have said, in cold waiter, unless it cooks very quickly or the fish is very small and intended for a fish souchet. The fish should then be allowed to boil up as quickly as possible. Directly the water begins to boil, it will be found that a good deal of scum will rise to the surface. This scum should be taken off at once, as otherwise when the fish is removed from the kettle it will settle on the surface of the fish, rendering it unpleasant, not merely to the eye, but to the palate. At the bottom of the fish-kettle is generally placed a strainer, so that the fish can be gently lifted "without breaking. It should be always borne in mind that fish is very tender and apt to break. Indeed, many a good cod-fish has been broken owing to the cook carelessly pouring the cold water on to the fish from a little height. It would be almost impossible to give any general directions as to the length of time fish takes to boil. The time is generally best calculated after the water has boiled. For instance, a good large turbot will be sufficiently cooked by allowing the water to boil for half an hour. Experience alone, however, will enable the cook to form a correct estimate. The fact of the flesh separating easily from the bone is quite enough to prove that the fish is amply done. When a very large cod or salmon is boiled whole, recollect that it will not do to judge by the tail whether the whole fish is done or not, as of course the tail being thinner than the shoulder it will cook through much quicker. Boiled fish should always be served up on a strainer covered with a nice clean napkin, and care should be taken to allow the water to run off the fish-kettle strainer before the fish is moved or rather slipped off on to the napkin. Boiled fish should be ornamented witli slices of cut lemon and green pai'sley, and of course a garnish of prawns or little tiny crayfish forms a great improvement to the appearance. In the case of large flal CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. fish, like a turbot or good-sized brill, a little lobster coral spiinkled sparingly over the surface of the fish is the best method of making it ornamental. When lobster sauce is served with the fish tliis can generally be done ; when there is no lobster, and the fish is served simply plain with melted butter, a little parsley not chopped ?up too finely will, with the cut lemon, form an admirable garnish which will in appearance be little inferior to the lobster coi'al. But we must again refer to a point previously mentioned, and that is the whiteness of the fish. A fat turbot looks infinitely more tempting when it is of a snowy whiteness than one that is sent to table presenting a dirty appearance. Now this white appearance is much increased by the simple means of rubbing the fish over with a little lemon-juice the efiect of acid lemon-juice is to slightly dissolve the outside impurities of the fish, which are then thrown up in boiling, and removed by skimming. In choosing a large turbot, avoid one with the backbone that looks red, as these fish rarely present that white appearance when boiled as those whose backbones when raw are white and colourless. We will now discuss or rather remind our readers of the general principles to be remembered in frying fish which we considered at some length in the early pages of this work. The principles are mainly these ; Let the fat be boiling. Let the fat cover the fish. In preparing fish for frying when eggs and bread-crumbs are used, take care first to dry the fish, secondly to flour it, then dip it in the well-beaten egg and sprinkle it with the dry bread-crumbs. Bread-raspings are very useful, but if the fat be deep and boUing are not really necessary. A few are, however, very useful to sprinkle over an accidental patch that may have unfortunately been made in removing the fish from the frying-pan. The almost universal fault with fried fish in private houses is that it is dried up and over-cooked. Indeed, many a supposed cook might go and receive an admirable lesson iii that poor man's solace a fried-fish shop. We are not certainly a nation of cooks like the French, but we are entitled to be justly proud of our fried-fish shops. Tlie smell is not agreeable, but we have no hesitation in saying that a pennyworth of fried fish bought at one of these shops is better cooked and more palatable than the majority of dishes of fried fish met with in ordinary private establishments : the reason being that these places absolutely boil the fish in hot fat, which is the one thing that renders the fish nice and soft. We next come to grilled fish, and there can be no doubt that the grill somehow brings out a flavour that nothing else \n\\. For instance, a fine fresh herring just out of the water cooked on a gridiron, what can compare to it 1 Fish especially requii-es a clear fire. Take, for instance, filleted soles going to be done d, la MaUre d'hotel : unless the fire be quite clear, the fish will get smoky perhaps or look dirty. First, extra care must be taken to have the gridiron perfectly clean, as the white fish will show marks in a way that a chop or steak of course would not. As an extra precaution, thei'efore, I would recommend you to rub the gi'idiron with a piece of mutton fat, and warm it. Then wipe it with a cloth, and see if any black remains. After this, again rub it with the fat, as it helps to prevent the fish from sticking and consequently burning, which it is very apt to do. The filleted pieces of soles are first dipped in a little oil mixed with some chopped parsley and pepper and salt ; the pieces are then placed across the gridiron, and if the fire be bright will look transparent, and directly this transparent appearance changes to an opaque one the fish is done. Underdone fish is extremely nasty, but, as we said, the universal fault is the other way fish as a rale being as much overcooked as a boiled leg of mutton is genei'ally undercooked. Another important point to be remembered in grilling fish PRINCIPLES WHITEBAIT. xH is generally to keep in the flavour. For instance, a slice of grilled salmon tastes far nicer if the slice has been wrapped in oiled paper. Of course cooking anything wrapped in oiled paper on a gridiron requires great care, as should there be the slightest flare the paper will catch fire what is wanted is a fierce heat. When fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is, paper and all. The paper must be proper cooking paper, and not printed. So few fish are ever baked that general directions on the subject are scarcely necessary. There is one case, however, to which we will refer, viz., fish en pa pillot, or, in other words, fish baked in paper. Take, for instance, the case of rouget en pajnllot. The very best way of cooking red mullet is to wrap it up in oiled paper with plenty of butter and a little pepper and salt, the one thing to be borne in mind being that it is scarcely possible to have too much butter. Unfortunately, butter is now so expensive that this method of cooking fish is very extravagant : this is true, but if you do cook it this way, either do it properly or try another way altogether. If you place a red mullet or indeed any fish in paper with what is generally called a little dab of butter you simply diy up and spoil the fish altogether. There is one delicious little fish that deserves special notice, and that is whitebait. How very few cooks are there who can send this delicacy to table ! Indeed, very often in country houses, when what are called grand dinners are given, very often a man is specially sent down from London to cook the whitebait. Of course, we presume the whitebait to be fresh. Now, what is the difficulty 1 I think the principal one is drying the whitebait. I will therefore describe exactly how whitebait is cooked at some of those charming little river-side hotels. The whitebait is first thrown on to flour on a cloth, not merely a floured cloth, but flour an inch deep. The whitebait, when thus dosed in flour, is put into a large sifter or very coarse, open cane sieve something like that used for sifting oats and shaken : all the loose flour is thus shaken ofi". The floured and sifted whitebait is then put in a wire basket, and plunged into boiling fat. Unless the fat be really boiling, and sufficiently deep to cover the fish, it is of no use. Half a minute or a little more is quite sufficient to cook the whitebait, which must be sent to table instantly. Recollect, however, the whitebait must be cooked directly it is floured. It is no use flouring the whitebait and putting it by ; if you wait any time you will have it flabby and spoilt. The one point to be remembered is expedition. Take care also that the whitebait is not in a broken state. Plain whitebait is generally followed with a little devilled whitebait. There are two kinds, called black devil and red devil. The correct way to devil whitebait is to take out the whitebait basket in the middle of cooking, and pepper the fish, using mixed black pepper and salt for a black-devil, and mixed cayenne pepper and salt for a red-devil. The basket should then be re-plunged into the boiling fat for a few seconds, and the whitebait sent to table. In nearly all hotels and really the plan seems quite unobjectionable the devilled whitebait is made from the ordinary whitebait left and sent downstaii's from the first couise. This is peppered and replaced in the whitebait basket, which is then re-phmged into the boiling fat a very few seconds, of coui"se, being necessary to heat it. An indispensable accompaniment to whitebait is thin brown bread and butter and cut lemon. Whitebait, however, is such an exceedingly delicate fish that it seems to possess an extraordinary property of bringing out the flavour of the butter. Consequently, unless the biitter is of the very best description it will taste bad. xlii cassell's dictionary of cookery. Unfortunately, too, this bad flavoui- will be attributed to the fish rather than to the butter. Remember also in serving whitebait, as in serving a soufflet, a very few minutes' delay means ruin. There is one compound so intimately connected with fish that we think some reference should be made to it while we are discussing the subject of the principles to be observed in cooking fish of all kinds. We refer to melted butter. There are, perhaps, few dishes more essentially English than that large tureen of so-called melted butter, but which is in reality milk, or perhaps water, thickened with butter and flour, in which the latter really predominates. There is, too, probably nothing sent to table so extravagant as ordinary melted butter, as, for some reasons unknown, the cook seems possessed with an idea that persons eat melted butter as they do soup. It will almost invariably be found that melted butter, say for four persons, is sent up in sufiicient quantity for twenty ; and as there are few cooks who know, or care even if they do know, how to utilise the melted butter that is left, too often the greater part of this expensive and extravagant sauce is absolutely thrown away. I say expensive and extravagant advisedly, for properly-made melted butter is veiy nearly literally what the name implies. As good melted butter, or, as it is sometimes called, butter-sauce, is an exceedingly nice and delicioxis accompaniment to most kinds of fish, and as in nine houses out of ten it is sent up in an uneatable form, I will, at the risk of being tedious, describe how to make it, and will at the same time remind cooks that melted butter is often looked upon as a crucial test of a good cook. Good melted butter is a happy medium between that very small quantity of curdled oil sent up as an accompaniment to fish at second-rate French hotels or restaurants and that large tureen brimming full of thick milk generally served in private houses. Just as in life we ofttimes learn as much from our mistakes as we do from our successes, so it is often a good method of teaching first to describe "how not to do it." The usual but wrong method of making melted butter is as follows : The cook cuts off a lump of butter at random, and places it on a plate with about an equal quantity of flour, standing the plate in front of the fire to allow the butter to sufiiciently dissolve to enable her to mix the flour and butter altogether, which is generally done, too, with a steel knife. This kneaded butter and flour is then added to a pint or more of milk or water, or a mixture of the two, and the whole stirred together over a fire in a saucepan till thick the reason of the butter and flour being kneaded together first being that it is then much less liable to render the sauce lumpy and curdled. All this is generally done by guess-work, and too often, owing to the quantity of flour being miscalculated, the result resembles in consistency a pudding rather than a sauce. The great mistake in this method is the absurdly lai e quantity of milk or water and the equally absurd small quantity of butter. The first idea the cook must clearly grasp is quantity. Butter, especially in the present day, is very expensive, and as butter-sauce consists mainly of butter, the cook must make sufiicient, but not more than sufiicient. Suppose, therefore, there are eight persons going to sit down to dinner, it may be calculated that each person will take one ladleful of melted butter with their fish, and no more; for if it be properly made it will look sufficiently rich to deter any one from what is vulgarly called " swimming " theii- plate v\'ith it. PRINCIPLES MELTED BUTTER. xliu Let therefore the cook who feels willing to learn act as follows : Take a small basin, or the sauce-tureen, and pour into it with the sauce-ladle eight ladlefuls of water, and two over, or ten in all, and then look at the quantity, and bear in mind that that is the limit of the quantity she must make viz., about half a pint. I will now describe how to make a small quantity of melted butter, supposing only a quai'ter of a pound of butter used. First take the buttei-, and divide it into six equal portions great accuracy not being essential take one of these sixth parts and place it in a small enamelled stewpan to melt over the fii'e, and add to it not quite an equal quantity of flour, a small pinch of pepper, and a susjncion of nutmeg. When this little piece of butter is melted, and the flour, &c., well mixed with it, have ready half a tumbler of cold water, and pour the best part of it into the stewpan, and stir it up over the fire till the whole becomes about the same consistency as cream. When this is the case, gradually dissolve in it the remainder of the quarter of a pound of butter, taking care to stir it carefully, and not to apply too great a heat. It will sometimes be found that the melted butter thus made has a tendency to what cooks call " curdle," or to run oily. The moment any symptoms of this appear, add a spoonful of cold water, slacken the heat, and stir quickly. When all the butter thus made is dissolved, the whole may be poured into and sent thi-ough a tamis, which causes it to present a much smoother appearance than it otherwise would. Unfortunately, really good melted butter ought j roperly to be made from fresh butter ; when, therefore, the cii'cumstances of the house allow of fresh butter being used, a little salt must be added. However, very good melted butter can be made from salt or tub butter. We, however, are bound to admit that we live in an age of adulteration; and should it be your fate, therefore, to attempt to make melted butter from butter adidterated with fat, the blame of failure will not be yours, but the widespread dishonesty of the age in. which we live. I firmly believe that befoi-e long, unless some more stringent laws are passed, successful trado will be incompatible with honesty. Tens of thousands of children die annually in this country from the slow but deadly poison of adulteration. THE JOINT. We will now proceed to discuss that all-important point in cooking, viz., the preparation of joints roast and boiled. Simple as such preparation would seem, ?yet the fact remains that ther'e are still many families, like that of David Copperfield, which faU apparently ever to hit upon the proper medium between redness and ciaders. Or should the joint happen to be a leg of mutton boiled, the first incision of the knife causes that appearance which has been graphically described as ''gushing horrible among its capers." Roasting and boiling joints must in the present day be necessarily divided into two classes, viz., those cooked before or over an open fire, and those cooked by an oven heated by steam over a close fire. We will first take the good oldfashioned and extravagant open grate, which can be made to extend almost to any width by turning a handle, but which, alas ! when stretched, recalls the unpleasant circumstance to mind that in the present day the price of coals is far different to what it was years ago. We will also suppose the house to use the ordinary roa sting-jack and hooks, as the still more old-fashioned machinery turned xliv cassell's dictionary of cookery. by the heat of the fire has disappeared as completely as the turn-spit dogs themselves. We will take as an example of joints to be roasted at an open fire that most common one of all, viz., a leg of mutton. First, with regard to the condition of the joint for much depends upon this a leg of mutton kept till it is ripe, or just fit for cooking, and one fresh killed, are two distinct things. The fact is, that the great principle of cookery forethought is as much overlooked in ordering a dinner as in cooking it. Housekeepers too often will simply order a leg of mutton from the butcher's when the man calls for orders in the morning, and when the leg is sent they don't know whether it was killed that moi'ning or a fortnight before. In cold weather it is a very simple plan to pick out a nice joint at the butcher's, asking when it was killed, and then have it hung up in the larder, or any cool place where there is plenty of air, till it is tender. The length of time say a haunch or leg of mutton will keep in this country depends entirely upon the weather. Of coiu'se, in some sultry August days a leg of mutton will sometimes turn bad in one day ; but such days are rare, and in such weather large hot joints by no means desirable. In winter, especially during a frost, there is scarcely any limit to the time a leg of mutton will keep. Only bear in mind that if the leg gets frozen it is spoilt. In ordinary cold but not necessarily freezing weather, a leg of mutton will keep from ten days to a fortnight. Recollect, too, the importance of keeping the meat dry. For this purpose, flour with a dredger the whole of the joint, and look to it every morning, and re-flour any part that looks in the least degree moist. Experience alone will tell you when the joint should be cooked. Damp close weather is veiy bad for keeping meat, even if it is not very hot. Cold dry weather is, of course, the best of all, when the temperature is just above freezing. We wOl now suppose the joint to be hung sufliciently long ; next let us consider what is the best method of cooking it, and why. One most important point is to have a good clear bright fire to start with, and for this purpose the cook must see to the fire quite an hour before the joint is what they call " put down." It is no use to " put down" a leg of mutton or large joint to a dull fire, and for the cook to say, " Oh, it will soon burn up !" This corresponds to putting the leg of mutton into lukewarm water, and saying, " Oh, it will soon boil ! " The 'principle of boiling and roasting is the same to endeavour as quickly as possible to surround the joint with a hard film of meat, in order to keep the flavour in. Consequently, the fire must be clear, bright, and fierce to start with, and the leg of mutton must be put rather near the fire to commence with. After a short time, varying from ten minutes to a quarter of an hour, according to the heat of the fire, draw the joint a little back, and let it cook steadily. Another important point in roasting meat is the basting. A leg of mu.tton cannot be too much basted. Also basting should commence almost directly the meat is put down. Now it will be often found, in fact generally, that women cooks place the dripping-pan in front of the fire, then hang the joint; next take a basin with some dripping in it, and place a lump in the dripping-pan to melt the piece placed in front of the dripping-pan generally slipping round to the back as soon as the melting begins. This melting process takes time, and too often the skin and surface of the meat gets hard and dry, and cracks before sufiicient dripping has melted to baste with. PRINCIPLES ROASTING. xl\ What cooks should do is to place the dripping-pan in front of tlie fire, with the dripping or lard in it, a quarter of an hour or more hefwe, they hang up the joint, and also to make it a rule not to hang the joint at all before they see sufficient dripping has run into the well of the dripping-pan to take up a good spoonful of melted fat in the basting-ladle. With regard to time, this not merely depends upon the size of the joint, but upon the fire and the time of year. Eoughly speaking, a leg of mutton weighing eight pounds will take a couple of hours, and one of ten poimds two hours and a half. For a large leg of mutton, a difference of neax y half an hour should be made for summer and winter in winter, of course, the meat requiring a longer time. If the fire has been properly attended to, and the basting kept up during the whole time the joint is roasting, it will generally be found that the leg of mutton will be sufficiently browned without having recoui'se to flouring it and drawing it near to the fire. Should, however, the meat look lightcoloured, ch-aw the leg a little nearer the fire, and allow those parts that look lighter than the rest to brown by stopping the roasting-jack from going round. Should, however, it be necessary or thought desmible to use flour, do not let the flour fall in the dripping-pan in any quantity, as this, as we before pointed out, will have the effect of thickening the gravy. In roasting a haunch of mutton, exactly the same process should be followed as in roasting a leg, only as the haunch is of coui'se far larger, it requii-es a much longer time to cook ; consequently, the outside is very apt to get overcooked and dried up before the joint is cooked through. Now a large haunch of mutton weighing over sixteen pounds wUl take four hours to cook; when, therefore, this sized joint has to be cooked, it will be necessary to protect the outside parts not covered with fat with some artificial covering, such as thin slices of fat, or oiled foolscap paper. The best way of treating a fine large haunch of mutton that has been well hung is to cook it exactly in the same way as a fine haunch of venison, the proper method of cooking which is as follows : First, however, remember that a haunch of venison, of all joints in the world, depends upon the attention that has been bestowed upon it during its hanging. Like the haunch of mutton, it must be kept in a cool and airy place, and also kept dry. Great care also should be taken in the early transport of the meat, to prevent its getting in any way bruised. A haunch of venison will keep much longer than a haunch of mutton, and is generally preferred when just on the turn towards getting what is called "high." It is, however, a great mistake to keep a haunch too long, so as when it is cut it has a strong gamey smell. The following is the best method of roasting a haunch of venison, and perhaps few recipes better illustrate that important principle of cooking, viz., "keep the flavour in." First, all the dry skin on the underneath part and skirt should be removed, and the shank-bone neatly sawn off. Then a piece of buttered paper should be put over what we may call the breast of the haunch, or that part where there is least fat, and where it is generally first cut. Then the whole haunch should be covered over with a flour-and-water paste half an inch thick, and outside this paste large sheets of oiled paper should be tied. The joint should then be hung up, or, better still, put in a cradle-spit, and roasted. The time a good-sized haunch of venison will take to roast varies from four to five hours, though of course it would be useless to attempt to roast one xlvi cassell's dictionary of cookery. at all, except before a very large fire. About balf an hour befoi'e the joint is wanted remove the paste and paper, and sprinkle a little salt all over the haunch out of a pepper-box. . Next bring the haunch near the fire, and baste it with some fresh butter heated till it is frothed, and at the same time dredge the haunch with flour. The point to be aimed at is to get a rich brown colour all over the joint. A good brisk fixe will generally be sufficient; but if any difficulty is experienced, a salamander will be found a great assistance. Indeed, for obtaining a colour, a salamander will often be found a desirable kitchen utensil. It is simply a large flat piece of iron with a handle to it. This iron is made red-hot and held near to what requii'es browning. A salamander will be found extremely useful in browning cheesecakes, or in raising an omelette. A rich but not strongly-flavoured gravy should be served with a haunch of venison, and also red-currant jelly. French beans are by far the best vegetable to be eaten with it, and stale bread is better than new. If possible, have a plate with hot water underneath it ; and if you know a haunch of venison is coming, reserve your appetite as much as possible, and do not spoil it by eating entrees first. To my mind, a fine, well-cooked haunch of venison, such as is served during the season every Tuesday and Thiu-sday at the Albion Hotel, opposite Drury-lane Theatre, is the finest dinner that can be obtained anywhere, including even Paris. Of course, the reason of covering the haunch with the paste is to keep in the flavour. We shall sj eak more fully on this point of keeping in the flavour when we come to consider cooking joints in closed vessels. One great secret of successful roasting is the basting. Now it is evident that any joint covered with fat requii-es less basting than a dry or lean joint. For instance, a loin of mutton requires less basting than a leg, because it is generally much fatter. Again, in basting a siiioin of beef, the sides or lean part should be basted, while the fat upper part and undercut requii-e scarcely any. Basting with fat or dripping should not go on till the joint be taken down, but discontinued about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour before ; as, if a joint has been basted ixp to the last moment with fat, it has a tendency to make the meat, especially the outside cut, taste greasy. This does not apply to basting with butter. Butter, however, is now so dear that it is scarcely ever used for basting purposes. One great difficulty, perhaps the chief one with inexperienced cooks, is the time a joint will take to roast. Too much dependence must not be placed on mere weight. For instance, take a shoulder of mutton. A large but thin shoulder will not take so long to roast as a smaller but thicker one. So agaio., the old maxim of allowing a quarter of an hour to a pound of meat will not apply to ribs of beef rolled. This latter joint is all solid meat, and thick, and consequently takes a long time to get heated right through. So again, a loin of mutton boned and stuffed, which is the most economical way of cooking it, will take a longer time to roast than an ordinary loin of mutton with the bone in it. Of course the weight of a joiut is a great criterion as to how long it will take to cook ; but then it should always be borne in mind that the weight and thickness should be considered together. One very common mistake made by cooks is to suppose that lamb does not require cooking so long as mutton, because it is young and tender. The contrary is however the case : underdone lamb is far worse than underdone mutton. A well-roasted haunch or saddle of mutton when cut should show signs of having PRINCIPLES ROASTING. xlvii good red gravy in it. Underdone lamb will be flabby and sodden; consequently, lamb really requires considerably more time than mutton. Lamb, too, should be always cooked before a particularly bi-isk fire, and should be constantly basted. Just as lamb requires more roasting than mutton, so does veal require longer roastinf than beef. I think, as a I'ule, the principle will be found to be, that the closer the meat the longer does it take to cook, whether the process be roasting, bakin" or boiling. For instance, a leg of mutton is closer meat than a shoulder, and consequently, supposing a leg and shoulder be the same weight, yet the former would require longer roasting than the latter. So, too supposing the weight the same would a silver-side of beef, which is very close meat indeed, take longer to boil than an aitch-bone of beef. Yeal is, as a rule in this country, a closer meat than beef, and requires a great deal of cooking. Underdone veal like underdone lamb, is extremely unwholesome. Pork, again, is a white a'nd close meat it is almost impossible to over-roast pork. A large leg of pork weighing twelve to sixteen pounds will take four or five hours to roast properly. It will also be found advisable to rub the skin of the pork over with oil pi-evious to roasting it, as otherwise the skin has a tendency to get hard and split. There are some things that are neai'ly always overcooked, and among these we would particularly mention geese and ducks. Cooks should recollect that geese and diicks are hollow, and that the meat on the breast is very often only an inch and a half deep at the outside. Too often ducks are sent to table so dried up that the flavour is completely gone, and when carved the breast-bone is dry and white. A large duck does not require more than three-quarters of an hour to an hour to cook, and a good-sized goose one hour and three-quarters. In roasting poultry the same thing holds true as in roasting meat, viz., that the closer the meat the longer the time. This is very marked in contrasting the time it takes to roast a goose and the time it takes to roast a turkey the latter, in proportion, taking nearly double the time of the former. A large turkey weighing say fourteen poimds would require three hours and a half, whereas a large goose that size would only require one hour and three-quarters. In roasting all kinds of poultry and game, basting is of the vitmost importance, as otherwise the meat is certain to be dry and flavourless. In roasting some kinds of game it is a very common custom, especially abroad, to fasten a piece of fat bacon over the breast, and, indeed, sometimes the bird is sent to table with the bacon on it. Of course this is purely a matter of taste; but to my thinking the bacon spoils the flavour of the bird. What should be done in roasting partridges is to calculate exactly the time when they will be wanted, and not to roast them too soon. Some cooks get nervous, and in fe .r of being late, absolutely get some dishes that are not wanted till quite the fijiish of dinner ready when diimer begins. In large pai-ties, partridges should not be put down to roast till after the soup and fish have come downstairs. The entries invariably take a long time handing round, and then the joint has to follow. I have no doubt that many will remember how invai'iably at large dinner-parties the game is overcooked and dried up. Hare is a very dry meat, and requires a gi-eat deal of roasting. Over-roasted hare is one of the most insipid things sent to table. Yet too often hare will be found to be quite dried up. The proper form of I'oast hare is, that when the knife cuts into the back the meat, though not red, should be juicy; too often it will be found to be quite dry. So, too, with a roast pheasant. After the breast xlviii cassell's dictioxaky of cookery. has been cut, when the knife separates the wing-bone from the merry-thought, the bone where it is divided should look a little pink ; this will show that the bird has not been dried up. When Ave come to small bii'ds, like woodcock and snipe, we must be still more careful of over -roasting, as it is a cruel thing to spoil such expensive delicacies owing to a little carelessness. It is difficult to lay down any exact time so much depending on the fii-e only be sure of one thing, and that is, baste the whole time. Snipe especially should be rather underdone. There is an old saying which cooks would do well to remember, viz., "A well-cooked snipe is one that has only flown once through the kitchen." Of course this is an extravagant way of saying how very little cooking snipe require. Of course, in serving small game, no delay should take place. Game half cold is not wortli eating and it is apt to lose its heat veiy quickly. Some dishes ha -e special power of retaining heat, such as Irish stew and hasty puddings. Others, seem to lose their heat quickly, and among the latter class we would especially mention roast loin of mutton, which seems to possess the power of getting cold quicker than any other joint I know. We will now go on to consider what is really another form of roasting, viz., grilling. There is perhaps no better test of a cook than a rump-steak and a boiled potato. If you can get the former black outside and red in, and the latter a floury mass as white as snow that crumbles to pieces on your plate, you may rest assured that the cook thoroughly understood his or her business. The same principles, of course, apply to grilling a chop or steak as in roasting or boiling, tlie point being as much as possible to surround the meat very quickly with a hard film to keep in the juices and flavour. For grilling it is essential, therefore, to have a perfectly clear fire, and also to place the iiop or steak near the fii'e at starting. It is obvious, too, that the very first principles of cookery are overlooked if the cook is foolish enough to stick a fork into the steak or chop to turn it. By this means you commit the unpardonable crime of letting out tlie gravy. We have, however, already fully described in page xii. the principles to be observed in the use of the gridiron. It will always be found best to have one gridiron for meat and another for fish. In grilling kidneys, also, it is best to remove them every now and then, and dip them into a little hot fat if there is any handy. Very often it will be found that those who prefer meat " grilled " also have a partiality for meat "devilled." What, then, is the difference between an ordinary mutton chop grilled and a mutton chop devilled? Generally, the only difierence is that some black or cayenne pepper has been sprinkled over the chop during the grilling ; but there are several kinds of sauces that may be called devil sauce. I will mention two for the first of which I am indebted to the late Mr. Francatelli, and for the second to Mons. Bossard, the famous cook at St. Peter's College, Cambridge. Francatelli's recipe is as follows : Chop three shallots fine, and place them in a small stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of French vinegar and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; boil these together for three minutes ; then add half a pint of thin, strong, brown gravy and a table-spoonful of tomato sauce ; boil again, and finish by stirring in a small jiat of anchovy Initter. This sauce is suitable for all kinds of broiled meat, and of course its strength, PRINCIPLES BOILING. xlix SO far as hotness goes, entirely depends upon the size of the pinch of cayenne pepper. The other kind of devil sauce is of quite a different character, and has the advantage of being made in a few moments, and also of consisting only of materials that are nearly certain to be at hand. Take say an ounce or a little more of butter, and dissolve it in a stewpan, but do not oil the butter or allow the stewpan to get too hot. Mix in a spoonful of made mustard, and a little mixed black and cayenne pepper, and stir the whole well together. The sauce should resemble thick custard, both in appearance and consistency. This sauce should not be poured over the grilled meat until the very last moment. Care also should be taken not to have the plate so burning hot so that it will dissolve the butter into oil. Recollect, the only secret of making this sauce successfully is not overheating it. This sauce, poured over a nicely-grilled chop at breakfast-time, often has the effect of enabling a person with a delicate appetite to take meat, when, without the stimulant of the sauce, they would be unable to touch any. We have already discussed the general prmciples of cooking to be observed both in frying and boiling. I would, however, remind you, in choosing a joint, such as a leg of mutton, when it is for boiling and not for roasting, it is advisable to have it rather fresher. A leg of mutton for roasting may be left till it is on the verge of turning. Not so a leg for boiling. First, if the mutton be kept too long it will be of a very bad colour when sent to table ; secondly, the liquor in which it was boiled will not be fit for anything. In boiling a leg of mutton, it should always be. borne in mind that even with the greatest care some considerable amount of nourishment will get out into the water. Indeed, it would be a very practical lesson, not only to cooks but to heads of households, to make a few experiments in weighing materials before roasting or boiling and after. They shoidd remember, too, that there is no such thing in nature as annihilation. Very often when turnips are a little old, the cook, in order to save herself a very little trouble, will boil all the turnips with the leg of mutton, thereby rendering the liquor too sweet to make soup. To my mind, one great drawback to salt beef is that even with plenty of soaking previously in cold water, the liqiior in which the beef is boiled is unfit for making soup. I have no hesitation in saymg that in all faii-ly-sized establishments the refuse of the joints should be sufiicient to enable the family to have soup every day. By "refuse" I mean the water in which meat is boiled, the trimmings, &c., but especially the bones left from joints. A silver-side of beef when fresh if boiled makes capital soup, and yet cases ai-e found where such liquor is absolutely thrown away. I recollect once on boai'd ship seeing the cook empty overboard the liquor in which had been boiled over-boiled, of course a huge fresh aitchbone of beef Waste is absolutely sinful ; and when we consider for one moment that we injure our fellow-creatures more by wasting a leg of mutton than by burning a ,?20 note, we shall the better realise the importance of economy in cooking in its strictest sense. The truest economy is to get the greatest amount of nourishment possible out of the materials we use. Nor should we waste because the materials are cheap and plentiful. Even were it in our power to multiply food to a miraculous extent, it would still no less be our duty to gather up the fragments that remain, that nothing be lost. In boiling poultry of all kinds, it should be our endeavour to obtain just as in boiling fish a good colour, and of course the principle is the same. In CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. boiling' say a fowl or a turkey, by rubbing the breast over with lemon-juice, or by placing a few thin slices of lemon on the breast, and covering them over with a piece of buttered paper, and wrapping the whole in a cloth, you will be able to send the fowl to table with that snow-white appearance which renders it so ?much niore tempting to the appetite. The reason of the flesh being whiter is that the acid of the lemon helps to dissolve the outside impurities of the skin on the breast of the fowls. Speaking of economy in cooking naturally brings us to that most economical way of cooking, viz., stewing. Really, the princijiles of stewing the French method of cooking nearly everything are so simple that they hardly require explanation. Let us for one moment contrast a mutton chop giilled and one stewed in rice. In the former case, some of the chop goes up the chimney in the shape of vapour, and some into the fire in the shape of fat and perhaps a little gravy, and is absolutely lost, so far as the eater is concerned. Take the chop, however, and put it in a small stewpan with just sufiicient water to cover it and a spoonful of rice ; cover over the stewpan, put a heavy weight on the lid, and let it gently simmer by the fire for two or three hours. What is the result ? Nothing is lost. Again, take that economical dish an Irish stew and see how much farther three pounds of neck of mutton will go as Irish stew than as mutton cutlets. In speaking of stewing as the universal custom in France, recollect I do not refer so much to Paiisian restaurants as to the nation generally, and especially the poor. I believe the contrast in the cooking between the French and English soldiers dtiring the Crimean war was veiy marked. A very large employer of labour in the North of England told me that he had noticed, among the few French workmen he employed, that on the same wages as other men they lived, so far as eating was concerned, more than twice as well. Foii.unately for this country there seems gradually a change going on for the better. The enormous increase in the price of coals will probably do much to abolish, in very small houses, open grates, and ste-sving over a close stove is far easier than over open ones. The reason of this is, that the principle of stewing is to keep the ingredients at a certain but not too great a heat. Stewing is very difierent to boiling. Irish stew allowed to hoil is hard ; Irish stew that is really stewed will almost melt in the mouth. Cooks must, however, be very careful in using enamelled stewpans, as should the contents of one of these vessels begin to boil, such is their power of retaining the heat that it \n\\ be found the boiling process will continue some time after the vessel has been removed from the fire. Perhaps one of the best instances of the power enamelled stewpans have of retaining heat is when one is used for the purpose of making brown thickening. It will be remembered that we recommended, when the butter and flour mixed together had assumed a proper colour, that a few slices of onion should be thrown in, and the stewpan removed from the fire, but kept stirring. Now it will be often found that the stewing process will continue for over ten minutes after the vessel has been taken off the fire, and placed, say, on a cold slab. Of course anything can be fried in butter or oil at a lower temperature than that of boiling water, still the extraordinary length of time the " bubbling " of the butter goes on is a capital means of impressing on the cook's mind how very much these vessels retain the heat. Consequently in. stewing, when boiling is particularly to be avoided, an enamelled stewjDan should be eai-efully watched, and it will be found to PRINCIPLES BAKING. li be a good method to have a little cold water ready a dessert-spoonful -will be sufficient to throw in to stop the boiling, should it accidentally take place. A copper steAvpan retains the heat comparatively for a very short period. The principal objection to enamelled omelet pans is that they are far more likely to burn the omelet than an ordinary one. We now come in due course tb consider the general principles to be observed in baking. Most persons know the difference in the flavour of meat roasted in the ordinary way before the fire or baked in the oven recollect I am still alluding to the old-fashioned open gi-ates. What the difierence is in the flavour between meat roasted and meat baked it is perhaps difiicult to describe accurately, but that the former is far superior to the latter there can be no doubt. The reason of the difference in the flavour is however very simple. When meat is roasted certain, vapours are of course given ofl" which go up the chimney immediately ; when meat is baked in the oven these vapours are shut in, and consequently affect the flavour of the meat ; and it will be remembered that the difference between roast and baked meat, though obvious to the palate, is still more obvious to the sense of smell. Now cei-tain joints bake better than others ; for instance, a shoulder of mutton is really quite as nice baked in a close oven as roasted, while a baked leg, and especially a baked loin, is very inferior. One gi-eat objection to shut-up fire-places has undoubtedly been the difliculty of roasting a joint. This difficulty is, however, quite overcome for all ordinary purposes by a new cookiag range, in the oven of which a joint may be baked, and yet the result will be that the most sensitive palate cannot distinguish the difference between the joint so cooked and one roasted in the ordinary way before the fire. The principle is as simple as it is ingenious. The oven is so constructed that a curi'ent of air can always be passing quickly through it. The stove is constructed on the same principle as a blast fui'nace, and the heat is regulated by turning a small handle. An opening at one end of the oven is connected with the chimney of the stove, up which the smoke and heated air ascends. Of course the hot air of the oven rushes out at this opening, its place beingsupplied by cold air admitted thi'ough a small sliding opening in front of the oven. Consequently, when any joint is baked in an oven of this description, the process it imdergoes is exactly the same as in roasting before an open fire. The joint is, of course, placed on a raised tin with holes in it to prevent the bottom getting sodden, and the oven door has from time to time to be oj ened in order to baste the joint. Of course all the vapours that are given off by the joint in cooking are instantly carried up the chimney with the current of hot aii-. In roasting a joint for such in reality it is in an oven of this description it will be found best to turn the joint over when it is half cooked. I have always found that when the fii-e has been properly attended to, a good colour can be obtained ; should, however, the joint look pale, a hot salamander will soon overcome the difficulty. The question as to whether open stoves or shiit stoves are the best is of course a most important one. Economy of fuel, now that the price of coals has reached what it has, is quite as important as economy of food. There cannot be any doubt that to English minds the open fire-places in sitting-rooms and bed-rooms convey an idea of real comfort that the close stoves met with abroad utterly fail to give ; and it vnll probably be many years before these stoves ai-e introduced in English households. Not so, however, kitchen ranges. The advantages of a close range over an open one lii cassell's dictionary of cookery. are so enormous, that there can be but little doubt that before long they will universally be used throughout the kingdom. One very obvious advantage they possess is that of cleanliness. The outsides of saucepans used with close stoves do not get encrusted with soot like those that are placed over open fires. Again, in using shut-up ranges all fear of any dishes being sent up smoky is done away with. But of course the chief point in their favour is economy of fuel ; and it should be remembered that economy in the necessaries of life is a duty. Just as that man who could cause two grains of corn to grow where only one grew before is a real benefactor to the human race, so is he equally a benefactor who can so economise either food or fuel that half the quantity will do the work of the whole ; but we will refer to the subject of close stoves more fully when speaking of kitchen utensils in There is one method of cookirg to which we must refer before passing on to the general principles to be observed in cooking vegetables, and that is exposing meat to the heat of an oven which is heated on the outside by steam instead of fire. This is, in fact, the principle of Captain Warren's cooking pot. The joint is placed in an inner chamber, the outside of which is surrounded with steam. Consequently the joint is cooked in its own juice and vapours. The invention is valuable, owing to the very important fact that it is the most economical way of cooking possible. At the same time it gives, comparatively speaking, but little trouble to the cook. Should it be wished that the joint should be a roast one, it has to be taken out of the cooking pot and browned. However, when this is done the joint cannot compare to one roasted before an open fij-e, or baked in one of the new ovens. I would therefore recommend, when Captain "Warren's cooking pot is used, to keep as much as possible to the plan of eating the joint simply as it is, as browning the outside merely makes it a sort of compromise between a roast leg of mutton and a boiled one. One other advantage possessed by Captain Warren's cooking pot is that the lid is so constructed that while the meat is cooking in the inner chamber vegetables can be cooked by steam in a chamber above. VEGETABLES. These may roughly be divided for cookmg purposes into two classes, viz., roots and greens ; the chief point of distinction between the two being that in cooking the latter class due attention must be given to the fact, that a good colour is an important point for consideration. One almost universal principle in cooking vegetables is the addition of salt to the water in which they are boiled ; and another almost as universal is that they should be put into boiling and not cold water. The quantity of salt that should be added will generally be found to be in the proportion of a good brimming table-spoonful of salt to half a gallon of water. Now, the whole of the following vegetables should be cooked by placing them in boiling water, salted in the proportion named. Turnips, cauliflowers, carrots, cabbages, artichokes (French), asparagus, French beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, new potatoes, green peas, and vegetable marrow. The whole of these will of course vary as to time, according to their size and age. Old potatoes should be placed in cold water, and medium-aged potatoes in lukewarm water ; the reason, of course, why old potatoes are placed in cold water being that otherwise, the root being hard, the outside part of a large potato would be apt to get pulpy before* the inside got soft. In cooking Jerusalem artichokes it seems to be an open question whether they should be placed in hot water or cold ; they should PRINCIPLES VEGETABLES. liii however, be treated like potatoes when young and small, boiling water ; when old, cold water. Spinach is, again, a vegetable about which there is much dispute ; some cooks maintaining that the less water used the better the spinach ; some going even so far as to steam the spinach, and use no water at all ; others boiling the spinach till it is tender in an ordinary quantity of water, and then draining it, and rinsing it in cold water before pounding it in a mortar. My own opinion is, that the latter method is the preferable one ; it has also the advantage of being recommended by the late Mr. Francatelli. We next come to consider the principle of obtaining a good colour. Of course, if the vegetables, such as peas, are old and stale, and of a bad colour to start with, there is no way of making them gi-een by cooking. However, it will often be found that quite young and fresh green peas and we take peas merely as the type of a class will turn yellow in boiling. The chief points to be considered for the purpose of avoiding a bad colour are fii'st, see that the water is boiling before the vegetables ai'e put in ; secondly, do not shut in the steam. Consequently, whenever it is possible, let green vegetables boil in an open saucepan. Of course, when you have a shut stove and a hot-plate this is very easy; when, however, it is an open fire, care must be taken that in placing the lid half open, so that the steam naay escape, at the same time the smoke is not sucked into the saucepan. Smoky vegetables are exti-emely disagreeable. To obtain a good colour for carrots, they must be lightly scraped, and not peeled. Another important point in cooking the majority of vegetables is to have plenty of water. First, if the quantity of water is not large, the moment the vegetables are put in, the water instantly goes off the boil, whereas it is important the water should boil the whole time. Again, it is well known how extremely disagreeable green- water is to smell ; consequently, should say a cabbage be placed in a small quantity of water, this disagreeable green- water becomes more concentrated. Let me here, however, give you one most important word of warning with regard to " green- water," and that is, never on any account allow it to be poured down the sink, as the smell that will consequently arise will probably have the very uncomfortable result of rendering the whole house disagreeable for some time after. There are few houses now, even in London, that do not possess a small patch of ground at the back. The best way of getting rid of green-water is to pour it on the gi'ound outside. Of course in all culinary operations the fii'st principle of cookery, viz., cleanliness, should be strictly attended to. But in cooking vegetables, if possible, even extra care should be taken on this point. For instance, in cooking potatoes the unsightly black spots should be scooped out with the greatest care. In boiling spinach, the enemy to be encountered is grit, consequently the spinach should be washed in several waters, the water being sufficiently deep to allow the dirt to settle. In boiling greens, and especially cauliflowers and broccoli, those most disgusting enemies, caterpillars and little slugs, must be met and defeated. Now, in a close cauliflower or broccoli this is not always so easy a task as some would imagine ; but by letting the vegetables soak in cold salt and water for an hour or more, and occasionally shaking them, every one of these nasty creatures can be got rid of for to find a boiled caterpillar on one's plate at dinner is quite sufficient to destroy one's enjoyment of the meal. The fact really implies liv cassell's dictionary op cookery. that the cook is dirty ; and when this is the case, it is difficult to really fancy any of the dishes that have necessarily passed through her hands. Befor-e leaving the subject of vegetables, one word in regard to the somewhat modern invention of preserved vegetables in tins. Take, for instance, peas. Of course, like everything else, peas are best when fresh gathered and in season ; but it is really wonderful to what perfection the ai't of preserving vegetables has been brought. However, just as in the case of tinned soups we gave a few simple directions how the contents of the tin may be improved when opened, so, too, with vegetables much may be done to what we may call " increase the illusion." For instance, take the case of a tin of peas. Of course they are already cooked, and only want wai-ming up. Now these tinned peas will be found, as a rule, to be not quite so sweet as fresh-gathered young ones; consequently, whenever you use a tin of peas as a vegetable, or to be piled up in the centre of an enti-ee, such as chicken cutlets, act as follows : First obtain, if possible, a few leaves of fresh mmt, and boil these leaves in a little water till tender ; then turn out the tin into a small stewpan, liquor and all, and put it on the fire to warm gently. Suppose the tin is a pil t of peas, add about half a salt-spoonful of salt, and one third of a salt-spoonful of powdered sugar. The sugar will of course cause the peas to taste sweeter, and consequently more like the real fresh ones. Add the mintleaves, which, in addition to really improving the flavour of peas, undoubtedly help the imagination to regard the peas as fresh-gathered ones. Really, if the tin is a good one, it requires a very good judge to distinguish between fresh peas and preserved ones. The same method must be pm-sued with French beans the latter, however, are improved by having a little chopped boiled parsley added instead of mint, and a piece of butter mixed with them when they are strained off. In heating all preserved vegetables do not allow them to remain on the fire longer than is necessary to simply make them hot through. ENTREES. Though entrees are as a rule served before joints, we have gone briefly through the general prmciples to be observed in cooking joints before those to be considered in reference to entrees. It should be remembered, however, that, cooks must learn simple things before they attempt difficult. Too often it will be found that cooks have what may be termed a few specialities, i.e., they have a few savoury dishes for which they are famed, but at the same time fail to invariably send up the joint and vegetables correctly. That cook is the most valuable who is the most regular. Amateur cooks almost invariably fall into the fault of wishing to begin at the higher branches of the science for such it deserves to be called of cooking. Young ladies in households often like to what they call " assist " on certain occasions ; but if the truth were known, probably hinder rather than help. the cook, who frequently has to leave off her own duties to wait upon the amateurs, who generally choose jellies or a trifle as the dish with which they commence their experimental cooking. Cooking, as we have said, is a science ; and persons who think they can begin at the wrong end will fijid, practically, that they will fail signally. To give any genei'al principles with regard to such an enormous variety of dishes as is comprehended in the word entree is somewhat difficult. Some few general explanations, however, can be given of certain classes of entrees. As one very common specimen we would mention kromeskies, taking them as a specimen PRIXCIPLES ENTREES. Iv of that large and usually very nice class of entrees wMch may generally be described as a hot entree, in which the inside is soft and moist, enclosed in a hard, thia cover. The cover is composed either of egg and bread-crumbs or batter, the inside of which may be termed generally as croquettes, which we have elsewhere described as a savoury mince moistened with sauce, if necessary boxmd together with yolk of egg, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bi'ead-crumbs, and fried crisp. Now it will be, I think, universally admitted that these croquettes and ki'omeskies are far nicer when the inside is pappy instead of hard. I. may here add that the difference between kromeskies and croquettes is that the former is the latter surrounded with a very thin slice of parboiled fat bacon or calf's udder before it is egged and bread-crumbed. "We will now imagine an inexperienced cook with the following difficulty : She is aware that the croquettes are far nicer when moist, but then how is she to egg and bread-crumb that which is so moist as to be almost a liquid? We will suppose the case of some ci'oquettas made from the remains of a cold fowl. The meat has been cut off the bone, and minced with the lean ham, miashrooms, &c. Now the bones should have been put on the fire, to assist in making the sauce that will moisten the mince. Tliis sauce, with the bones in it, should be boiled away, i.e., reduced by allowing the steam to escape, till only sufficient to moisten the mince is left. If this is done properly, when cold the sauce will be a hard jelly; consequently, the mince when hot will be quite moist, and almost liquid, but when cold will be quite hard. Now this moist mince should be allowed to get cold, and be then shaped into little pieces, either square for kromeskies, or into pieces like oval picnic biscuits, to look like cutlets. None of tlie trimmings in so shaping them need be lost, as they can easily be dissolved by heat and allowed to get cold again, which they will soon do on a small plate or dish. Now it is evident that these hard pieces when cold can be readily egged over and bread-crumbed. Great care should, however, be taken in so doing, as should there be a flaw in the covering of egg, when fried the inside will run out. I would thei'efore recommend as follows : Suppose the inside mince is very savoury, perhaps flavoiired with truffle, or composed of those expensive but delicious delicacies oysters. Having egged and bread-crumbed the cold, hard because a jelly piece of mince, let it get dry, which it soon will do if left in a cool place for an hour. Re-dip it just as it is into fresh beaten-up egg, and shake some more fine dry bread-crumbs over it. By this means you have a double coat, so to speak, round your mince. Next, to cook them. We will suppose a small, deep stewpan half full of boiling fat or lard. The croquettes are carefully but suddenly plunged in. What is the effect? The heat of course attacks the outside first, consequently, the egg covering coagulates directly, before the inside melts ; when the inside melts it is surrounded with a thin film which keeps it together. Great care, of course, must be exercised in draining such moist croquettes and in serving them; but when the little cutlet or ball reaches the plate without accident, and that delicious gush of inside pours on to the plate, owing to the fork of the eater being insex'ted into it, how far preferable are such croquettes to those that have almost to be cut ! Indeed, any one can make the latter; but when a good judge gets one of the former, or moist ones, he knows that in pi'oportion almost to the moisture is the skill of the cook. Should, indeed, the inside be veiy moist and almost liquid, he may smack his lips, and mentally ejaculate, " Ah, an artiste ! ' Recollect, however, in making Ivl cassell's dictionary of cookery. croquettes in wliicli the insides are moist there must be a limit to size. If very moist, tliey must be small ; indeed, a middling-sized walnut should be the limit, for it is evident that the strength of material of a thin film composed of coagulated egg would not be sufficient to overcome the force of gravity alone of a moist mass, the tendency of which is of course to become level. The best form indeed to make these ci'oquettes is cutlet-shape, or, as we have before described, the shape of an oval jiicnic biscuit. My own experience is that this shape is less liable to break than any other, besides which, when arranged round on a dish with plenty of fried parsley, by placing a tiny claw of a crab or lobster one of the small ends of the lesser legs, not the pincers a very ornamental red handle can be made to the cutlet to represent the bone. While we are speaking generally on the subject of entrees, we would wish to compi'ise under that heading savoury dishes in general ; and just as in soups and gravies we called attention to the importance of having brown roux or brown thickening constantly at hand, so, too, in any establishment where savoury dishes are liked would we call attention to the importance of the cook's always having ready to hand a small bottle of what is usually called aromatic spices for seasoning. The advantage of having these spices ready is that an enormous amount of trouble is saved by having them at hand, and as they will keep for years, and a small bottle lasts almost for ever, a little exertion on the part of the cook on some day when she has little to do will have the very beneficial result of improving the cooking of the house for years afterwards. Before explaining how these herbs are made, I would mention a few of their, if not every-day, at any rate weekly, uses. Take the very common case of a rump-steak pie, or that exceedingly nice, and when larks are cheap by no means expensive, dish lark pudding. Now the addition of a very small pinch of these flavouring herbs makes a difference in the flavour of the pie or pudding in ques- tion that is almost incredible ; and yet when the herbs are made this improvement of flavour is made at a cost so small as to be scarcely appreciable. The flavour it gives to the lark pudding is particularly marked, bringing out, as it does, a gamey flavour, which, considering the exceedingly small quantity put in, will give the cook a very good notion of the power these spices possess. Again, they are of the greatest value in making varioiis kinds of forcemeats for preserving game, such as hare or grouse. These herbs are best made as follows : Take half an oimce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, one ounce of white peppercorns, and one ounce of cloves; half an ounce each of marjoram, thyme, and basil, and a quarter of an ounce of bay-leaves. Have all these herbs and spices thorovighly dried, wrapping them up in several sheets of paper, one over the other, in order to avoid the goodness evaporating, and then have them thoroughly pounded as quickly as possible, and sifted through a fine sieve, and put in a glass-stoppered bottle for use. These herbs can be used for a variety of purposes, and are particularly \iseful in flavouring all kinds of forcemeats especially when such forcemeat is made from calf's liver or calf's udder. I would here remind you that in all cases when calf's liver is used for forcemeat for dishes in which any kind of game is introdiiced, that the addition of the liver of the game itself makes a vast improvement to the flavour. When game is plentiful there is never any difficulty in obtaining livers from the povilterers, who are obliged to throw away a considerable quantity every day, as the liver is apt to get high long before the rest of the bird. PRINCIPLES ENTREES. Ivii It is in the preparation of entrees more than any other class of dishes that the really experienced cook will best exercise that primary principle of cookery economy. Most educated persons in the present day have at one period or other of their lives visited Paris and I am speaking of the period before the war. One of the wonders of that beautiful city was the exti-aordinary little dinner to be obtained in the Palais Eoyale and elsewhere for a sum of money that in England would have barely kept off starvation in a coffee-house. It may seem a somewhat strong statement, but I really believe it to be true, that the materials out of which some of the most delicious Parisienne entrees are made are in English hotels and private houses either given to, and often refused by, an overfed dog, or are allowed to get putrid and breed fevers by being thrown into the dust-bin. There is an old picture of which, probably. Englishmen are pi'oud contrasting the English hog and the French hog, the difference being as striking as that between the fat and lean kine seen in the vision of the Eastern king of old. Alas that we should feel proud of this striking contrast ! it is but too often the case that our glory is in our shame. I fear that the contents of our English pig-tubs are a national disgrace. I have seen large pieces of bread, whole legs of fowls, &c., floating in what might be called greasy stock. The pig-tub is too often the one resource of idle and extravagant cooks, whose one idea of household management is to get rid of the odds and ends. Now a variety of nice entries can be made out of the cold remains of an almost infinite variety of joints. For instance, take the remains of a calf's head that has been sent to table with tongue, brains, &c., and a white sauce flavoured with marjoram. Suppose you cut up the remaias into small pieces, and see that the sauce when cold is a jelly. Take a little of the tongiie and the brains, and let them adhere to a piece of what is called the horn part of the calf's head ; let these all get cold ; see that they are nicely trimmed, slightly flour each piece and dip it into batter, and fry in some boiling fat till it is of a beautiful golden colour. Of course the batter, when it is properly made, will harden before part of the inside dissolves ; this entree, therefore, has the advantage of coming to table a light-looking fritter, which when opened presents a moist inside. It is, however, essential that the fat be boiling, as otherwise the inside will melt, and break through the fritter skin. Care also should be taken in making batter for entrees of this description that the batter be sufficiently thick. The best method of preparing batter is as follows : Take half a pint of mOk, and mix it up thoroughly with the yolk of an egg, adding a pinch of salt, then gradually add suflicient flour till the whole has become of a consistency rather thicker than double cream. This batter should be mixed in a large basin, and worked perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon. We have before remarked on the importance of making entrees the means of using up the materials that have been left from the previous day. One very useful form is that of salmi of game. Too often the remains of game are sent up, almost as they are, cold for breakfast, the result being that a large portion is wasted, the bones being almost invariably left half picked on the plates, while the gravy that was on the dish with the hot game the day before, and into which what may be termed almost the essence of the bird has run, is very probably wasted altogether. Suppose, therefore, some remains of pheasants, partridges, or indeed any other kind of game, is sent down from dinner, a most delicious entree can be made as follows : Cut off all the best parts of the meat, such as the wings, legs, breast, &c., and trim Iviii cassell's dictionary of cookery. them neatly. Should it be found that there is not quite sufficient, very often the addition of a single bird more, which can be roasted on purpose, will complete the dish. Next take all the remains the carcasses, trimmings, &c. and put them on to boil gently in the remains of the gravy that was served with the game the day before. After these bones have boiled so that they come out perfectly dry, send the gravy and the small pieces of game that have fallen from the bones in it through a wire sieve this will have the effect of thickening the gravy, and also of imparting to it a decidedly " gamey " flavour. Add to this sauce suppose say half a pint in quantity, or a little more about a wine-glassful of sherry. It is astonishing how this, glass of sherry helps to bring about a complete alteration of flavour. This salmi sauce is now complete, and the joints of game have simply to be warmed iip in it, taking care, if the game was sufliciently cooked on the first day, that it remains on the fire only sufficiently long to warm it through and no longer, as otherwise the game would get over-cooked, and become hard and flavourless. We have recommended sherry to be added to the sauce, but at the same time would acknowledge the superior qualities of madeira for the purpose. Unfortunately, madeira has of late years been rarely seen, though I believe there is every prospect of its becoming more plentiful in a few years' time. Madeira can now be bought from respectable wine merchants at from 36s. to 48s. a dozen, and is a far cheaper wine in quality than any sherry that can be bought at the same price. Whenever sherry is used for cooking pui'poses, golden sherry is better than a pale dry wine. One most important point in the serving of entrees is their appearance. The cook should endeavour to please the eye as an accessory to the palate. I will now run through a few of the most common faults that inexperienced cooks exhibit iia serving various entrees. One very common one is putting too much in one dish. The quantity should always be in i roportion to the dish. Indeed, I have seen dishes so piled uf) that, when fii'st handed, persons have had considerable difficulty in avoiding a sort of shower of pieces on their plate. This is, of course, rare; but it will be very often found that dishes are so filled that any attempt at ornament or garnish is simply impossible. Another equally common fault is, that when any entrees are served that require gravy, the gravy is not only too thin but too abundant. With regard to gravy poured round entrees, few maxims can be better for the cook to bear in mind than " Little and good." Perhaps few dishes would better test a cook than hashed venison, made, say, from the remains of a haunch, and as the same remarks would equally apply to hashed mutton, a short description will not be unpractical. We all know that generally inartistic dish called hashed mutton, once the scorn of Mrs. Gamp. Certainly a large dish large enough to hold a haunch in which thin slices of mutton float in an ocean of thin pale gravy, surrounded by sodden sippets of toast, cut in the old-fashioned wedge pattei-n, does not look tempting. Suppose, however, we serve hashed venison or mutton, nicely ornamented in a silver dish, as follows premising that, should you not possess a silver dish, we would recommend an ordinary vegetable dish instead : First, make some good strong gravy with a good colour, using up the bone of the joint for the purpose ; get the gravy to a good consistency, like that of double cream, dark in colour, and thickened with arrowroot in preference to brown thickeniiig. Next, in cutting up the meat, take care to avoid pieces of skin and gi'istle, and also avoid having thick lumps of meat. Warm up the meat in this gi'avy, taking care, as before, not to let the meat remain in for a longer period than absolutely necessary. ?LES ENTRIES GARNISHIXG. lix Should the hash be venison, a little port wine and red currant jelly can be added to the gravy ; and should it be mutton, one or two onions fried soft and of a nice browia colour, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, wUl be found an improvement. Kext, take the dish, and, having thoroughly warmed it, pile the meat up into a pyramid shape in the centre of the dish, leaving the border of it as bare as possible. Pour the remainder of the gravy gently over the piled-up meat, and 'place round the edge, instead of toast sippets, the following garnish : Stamp out with some cutters a few pieces of stale bread into the shape of hearts, and fry these pieces a nice bright golden-brown colour in some lard. Place these pieces near each other round the base of the pyramid, and place one choosing the best looking on the top of the pyramid, with a small silver arrow stuck in it. Of course this method of preparing the hash will give rather more trouble than the ordinary inartistic method, but then the difference in the appearance of the two dishes more than repays the trouble ; the one, in fact, is an entree, and the other a dish only suitable for an early dinner for children, and which, if served in the kitchen, would too often alas for human nature ! be more than half wasted. Really, hashed mutton, especially the remains of a haunch or saddle, nicely served the way we have described, makes an entree that no one need be ashamed of sending to table. Small crayfish make one of the very nicest-looking garnishes. If the entree, therefore, was hashed venison, a small crayfish could be placed at the four corners of the dish, and a small one on the top of the pyramid. To ornament hashed mutton with crayfish would, I think, be going a little too far. We will now take another form of ornamenting entrees, viz., fried parsley. Probably cooks are more indebted to parsley than to anything else for ornamenting their dishes. The great secret of fried pai'sley is, first, it must be freshcut double parsley, and rather dark in colour; secondly, it must be perfectly dry before it is fried. Again, the fat must be boiling, and the greatest care exercised in draining the parsley so as not to break it more than possible. The best method of frying parsley is in a little wire basket in a small deep stewpan. This basket can be easily made at home out of two-pennyworth of wii-e, by a very little exercise of ingenuity. The advantage of the basket is that it can be fitted to the stewpan, and the parsley can be lifted out bodily, thereby rendering the risk of breaking very small. Fried parsley can be used to ornament or garnish various kinds of patties, the dark green contrasting well with the light-brown pastry. Fried parsley should also be served with kromeskies, croquettes, fried sweetbreads, fried oysters, lobster cutlets, and a variety of other light entrees. To continue the idea of entries made from remains of joints, we will next consider the number of nice dishes made from boiled turkey, boiled fowl, etc. Suppose, for instance, the dinner, has consisted of one of these, with that very usual accompaniment a boiled tongue. An exceedingly pretty-looking entree can be made as follows : Cut off the best pieces of the white meat that has been left, and make a strong white stock with the bones, which may be thickened with a little white roux, and, if possible, two or three-pennyworth of cream. Warm up the meat in some of this sauce, and pile it up as before in a pyramid shape on the dish, and pour the remainder of the thick white sauce over it, the sauce being made sufiiciently thick to what is called " mask " the surface. Sprinkle over this white pyramid, sparingly and lightly, a little rather coarsely chopped dark-green parsley, and ornament the base of the pyramid as follows : In cuttmg up the Ix cassell's dictionary op cookery, turkey, stamp out some thin pieces of white meat into the shape of cocks'-combs, or some such pattern, with a crimped edge. Also cut some thin slices of the red tongue, and stamp these out in the same pattern. Warm up these slices of white meat and red tongue in a little hot clear stock, and place these slices round the dish at the base of the pyramid of meat, alternately red and white, having, of course, the crimped edge outwards. A single small crayfisli on the top of the pyramid, or a little sprig of parsley, wUl complete the dish. This entree, it should be borne in mind, is, in addition to being a really handsome dish, a most economical one, for, with the exception of the cream which is not absolutely necessary everything is used up, the bones forming sauce instead of being left on the plates and given to the dog in the ordinary manner. Of course this dish will be vastly improved by the addition of button-mushrooms and slices of truffle. When truffles are used, the alternate slices of black, red, and white look extremely nice ; or should the truffle be in small quantities, little pieces can be reserved to dot the stamped frill of the white meat a small piece in the centre of each round. In all dishes that have vegetables served with them, much may be done to improve their appearance by having some at least of the vegetables stamped of a. nice pattern ; even in large dishes that do not come under the heading of entrees, boUed turnips and boiled caiTOts always look better if roughly shaped like pears, and so cut that they will stand upright. When placed alternately round a boiled leg or neck of mutton, over which some caper sauce has been poured, the general appearance of the dish is far superior to what it would be if simply cut carrots and turnips are placed on hap-hazard. To teach even the elementary principles of making dishes look elegant is, we fear, a task beyond the power of mere words. Some persons have naturally taste, and others have not. The cook who will go out on Sunday afternoon in a pink bonnet with a blue parasol will never learn so to ai-range colours in garnishing a dish as to really attract the eye. We will, however, give a few hints to those and we are glad to say they are many who seem to possess the power of using garnishes when they have them. Fii'st, much may be done with artificial flowers cut from turnips or beetroots. For instance, a tongue glazed, \vith a paper frill round the root, and a nicely-cut flower made from a turnip, and just tinged with, cochineal in imitation of a camelia, placed on the top, always looks an exceedingly handsome dish. The turnip flower shoidd be stuck on to a small stick of wood, and a couple of bay-leaves tied on to the stick with it. Tliis method of ornamenting dishes, though old-fashioned, is very effective. For hot entrees and hot dishes of every description the following garnishes will be found especially useful : Fried croutons of bread cut into the shape of hearts or stars, and fried a golden-brown colour- button-mushrooms glazed, i.e., small buttonmushrooms that have had some bright glaze brushed over them ; pieces of white chicken or turkey placed alternately with pieces of red tongue, each piece being cut into somo pattern with a cutter ; stamped pieces of vegetables, such as carrot, turnip, parsnip, artichoke, or even the root of a French artichoke ; fried parsley or fresh parsley ; whole trviffles or truffles cut in slices or patterns; cocks'-combs, plovers' eggs, small crayfish, prawns, stoned olives ; occasionally, even, small slices of gherkins or the skin of g, chilli. For instance, take the case of a filleted sole a la maitre d'hotel. Place the slices of rolled grilled sole on end in a silver dish, pour a thick white sauce over them, made by boiling the bones of the sole in a little mUk, thickening it with a little white PRINCIPLES GARNISHING. Ixi roux, and seasoning with a little salt and pepper. Pass this sauce through a tamis to render it smooth, and take care that it is nice and thick. Now place alternately on the top of each little I'oll of fish a small piece say the size of the thumb-nail of the brght-red skin of a chilli, and a slice of the bright outside of a green gherkin or the skin of a green chilli. What a wonderful alteration in the appearance of the dish ! Yet recollect the extra cost is next to nothing, and the whole cost of the dish less than a plain fried sole in egg and bread-crumbs with melted butter. It is in garnishing cold dishes, however, that the greatest effect in appearance is generally produced. For instance, a ham plain boiled, and one glazed and ornamented with a border of what looks like butter, what a contrast ! Yet this border can be easily made with a little practice. We will describe how to make a ham look nice, and will first suppose the ham boHed sufficiently, and allowed to get cold in the water in which it was boiled, in order that the jelly, that gives a ham such a delicious flavovir, may get cold in the ham itself, instead of running out into the dish, as it would do had the ham been taken out of the liquor. Next we will suppose some nice bright glaze has been placed over the surface of the ham with a brush till it resembles in appearance a new mahogany dining-table. Next, how ai'e we to make the bright trellis-work to go round the ham. First, take some plain white lard and melt it, and, if it be winter time, add to it a little plain salad oil, in order to make the mixture thinner when cold. Now take an ordinai-y sheet of common notepaper, and roll it into the shape of a cone ; take the point of the cone between the thumb and finger of the right hand, and pour some of the melted lard, or mixed lard and oO, into the cone, and so hold the point that the lard will run out in a thin stream at the end at will ; i.e., so hold it that you can regulate the thickness of the stream or stop it altogether. It is now evident that you can wi-ite or even draw with this cone, as with a soft pen, making at will thick strokes or fine strokes. Of course to do it well a person must first be a good writer or drawer, and then have a considerable amovint of practice. A very little practice, however, will be sufficient to put a plain oi-namental border round a ham. My own experience is as follows. I practised on a clean, black, shiny tea-tray, as then the lard, which of course hardens as it falls, could be scraped up with a knife (an ivory paper knife is best), re-melted, and really used for the ham. On the occasion of a birthday or Christmas-time, a suitable device, such as " Many happy returns of the day," or " A Merry Christmas," can be written in the centre of the ham, and a border placed round the edge. A paper frill tied on to the bone, and plenty of fresh parsley roimd the dish, will always ensure an inviting appearance. One of the prettiest and most usefid garnishes for cold dishes is beetroot, especially for any white kind of dishes. Take, for instance, that exceedingly handsome dish when properly prepared a salad mayonnaise. First prepare the sauce, taking care to make it sufficiently thick, so that it can be used to mask or cover an uneven surface. It will be found best, in making mayonnaise sauce, to commence by adding the oil cbop by drop on the yolk or yolks of eggs alone; do not put in the pepper and salt or vinegar till after it has got quite thick. Indeed, it will be generally found best in making an ornamental salad of any description to reserve the pepper and salt till the whole salad is mixed up together. Having, by beating the oil and egg well together, got the sauce as thick almost as butter in summer time, arrange the salad as follows : First pile the lettuce-leaves into a pyramid shape, with the cut lobster inside, supposing the salad to be a lobster one : if you have a lettuce with a Ixii cassell's dictionary op cookery. good round heart to it, reserve the heart, cutting the stalk flat, so as to make it stand upright. This heart, if you like, can be placed on the top as an ornament, as it is green, or can itself be masked over with mayonnaise sauce. Next cover the pyi-amid completely over with the mayonnaise sauce, and place the heart of the lettuce, also covered, we will suppose, on the top of the pyramid. Next arrange the small red legs of the lobster round the base of the pyramid as garnish. Next take some coarsely-chopped parsley, and place little specks of green alternately with little specks of lobster coral over the white pyramid, the distance between these bright-green and red spots being about half an inch. Place also a few bi-ight-green capere on the top and round the base of the pyramid. Inside the bend of the legs should be placed hard-boiled eggs cut in quai'ters, stoned olives, filleted and washed anchovies, and a few capers. Should you have a good-sized silver dish, place, if possible, a small red crayfish in each corner, with its small claws stretched out. There are few dishes that repay the trouble of ornamenting more than lobster salads, especially for occasions such as wedding breakfasts or suppers. When you have a lobster salad, the red beetroot garnish is unnecessary. But suppose the salad mayomiaise is a salmon mayomiaise, or a chicken or turbot mayonnaise, beetroot will here take the place of the red lobster legs and the red coral. Red strips of beetroot can be placed in a sort of ti'ellis-woi'k round the base of the salad, and small specks of red beetroot can be placed on the white sauce alternately with the specks of gi-een parsley. One very pretty garnish for cold dishes is aspic jelly. Make some good aspic jelly according to the recipe given on page 36, and pour it when liquid into a large dish. Reserve a little of the jelly, and add to it a few drops of cochineal, wMch mil make the jelly a bright red ; pour tliis also into a similar-shaped dish, and allow the jelly to get cold. You can now cut tliis jelly into any shape you may wish a diamond pattern is as good as any as the jelly will settle on the dish, which should have been filled aboiit a quarter of an inch deep. You will consequently have alternate pieces of a bright pale yellow and bright red to place round any dish you may wish, such as cold chicken cutlets. Again, the trimmings of the jelly can be beaten up with two forks, and be piled up as a sort of glittering heap in the middle of any, dish. Of course the simplest and most useful of all garnishes is plain green parsley, and you can generally tell by simply watching how a cook will send to table a common dish, like a cold roast fowl, whether she is possessed of any taste or not. A cold roast turkey glazed and sent to table tastefully decorated with parsley is always a handsome dish. One very common form of handsome dishes is cold turkey or chicken, boned, (fee, dressed with forcemeat, but modelled the shape, say, of a boar's head or a swan. These dishes are made by means of copper moulds, tinned iiiside, and which ai'e rather expensive to buy. The meat is placed in the mould warm, and m ix ed with a strong stock, which being a jelly when cold causes all the meat to adhere together; some liquid strong stock can also be poured in after the mould has been shut together. On turning out, of course, the shape is perfect, so far as the mould itself is ; it may occasionally, however, require a little trimming. This moulded dish now requu-es glazing. Suppose, for instance, it is a boar's head. Get some very strong dark but bright glaze ; keep the glaze in a little basin, dissolved, placed in a larger basin into which some boiling water has been poured. In fact, heat the glaze just like what it so much resembles glue. By means of two artificial eyes, and PRINCIPLES SWEETS OMELETS. Ixiii the kernels of two brazil nuts stuck in for tusks, the resemblance becomes veryperfect. Should the model be a swan, a real swan's head is generally placed on the top, and joined to the mould by means of a wire. If the mould be a pheasant, the head of the pheasant can be affixed, and wings with the feathers on placed each side, while the long tail-fea,thers are stuck in to represent the tail. SWEETS. We now come to consider the general principles of cooking to be observed in the preparation of that large class of dishes that come generally under the name of sweets, and will commence with that division of which eggs may be considered as the basis, such as rich light puddings, omelets, and souffles. Now, as the latter of these best illustrate the principles of cookery, we will commence with a short account of souffles in general. The chief point in regard to souffles is of course the lightness, and the lighter the souffle the better the cook. The whole secret of the lightness of a souffle is the amount of pains taken in beating the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. By this means, when the beaten whites are added to the batter, the whole mass contains an almost infinite number of air bubbles, that expand with the heat, and cause the whole to rise. Consequently, the greatest expedition should be used in sending the souffle to table, for of coui'se as it cools these bubbles contract, and the souffle, which probably on leaving the oven was an inch or more above the souffle-pan, sinks to an inch below it on reaching the dining-room door. Souffles can be flavoured with cheese or even game. Small souffles made from the remains of woodcock or grouse are exceedingly nice, but great care should be taken in rubbing the flesh throiigh the wire sieve so as to ensure the meat being, so to speak, pulverised. Another great secret of having successful omelets is to have perfectly fresh eggs. A great deal of what may be called second-class cakes are made from stale eggs, the bakers often buying stale eggs or, as they more delicately call them, " spot eggs " for the purpose. These eggs, when held up to the light, will be seen to have a black spot in them, showing that they are bad. However, bj breaking the e g very carefully, and pouring off the best part and reserving the black spot, the egg can be used for making cakes. This black spot and a little of the egg adhering to it is of course thrown away, the smell of the black spot being exceedingly offensive, as it emits sulphuretted hydrogen gas. In breaking eggs for any purpose, it should always be borne in mind that even with the greatest care bad eggs "will occasionally make their appearance ; even when eggs are taken fresh from the nest, sometimes an old egg, that may have been overlooked for months, will by accident get mixed with the new. Consequently, always break each egg separately, or you wUl run the risk of having one bad egg spoil the whole lot. In making an ordinary omelet, of course the eggs are all beaten up together, yolks and whites, still, if you want a light omelet, the eggs shoiald be beaten up till they froth. _ In breaking the eggs, avoid what cooks call " watery eggs ; " what I mean is, the white of an egg, to make a good omelet, should be of the consistency of a jelly-fish, and not look thin and run away from the yolk. Tlie butter in the omelet-pan on the fire should also be frothed before the eggs ai-e added, and the cook should stir quickly and scrape as fast as she can the whole of the bottom of the omelet-pan till the eggs and butter begin to set. The omelet-pan should then be withdrawn a little from the fire, the omelet shaped Ixiv cassell's dictionary of cookery. with the spoon ; and in the case of a savoury omelet, the omelet-pan should be tUted in front of an open fire, or have a good hot salamander held over it this will have the effect of making the omelet rise, and consequently of being lighter, as well as slightly browning the surface. If gravy is served with a savoury omelet, pour it romid the omelet, and not over it. For a sweet omelet, always have some white powdered sugar to shake over the top. It is a somewhat open question as to whether it is advisable to mix milk with the eggs in making omelets. As a rule, the French do not add milk, and it will generally be noticed that omelets abroad are more yellow and streaky than in England, where it is a very common custom to add about a couple of tablespoonfuls of milk to every three or four eggs used. When milk is used, the omelet takes a rather longer time to set than when the eggs are used by themselves. The greatest difficulty cooks experience in making omelets is to avoid burning them. The fire should be tierce, but the omelet-pan should be withdrawn directly the omelet sets. The stirring process should also be kept up very briskly. While on the subject of the management of eggs, we may next take that very common English dish custard. Now, just as the principle of making good omelets was to get the eggs set without having them bui-nt, so may the secret of successful custard-making be said to consist in getting the eggs to thicken without getting set. The chief point in making custard, or any form of liquid whose consistency depends upon heated eggs, is to know when to stop short of the boiliag point. In making custard, it will always be found most economical to use the yolks only. The whites of the eggs add nothing to the flavour or excellence of the custard, and yet are invaluable to the cook for a variety of purposes, from clearing soups to garnishing sweets the latter being a point on which we shall touch on some future occasion. The best method of making custard is to first flavour the milk, if bay-leaves are used, by boiling the bay-leaves in the milk previous to adding the yolks of eggs. When, however, the yolks of eggs are added, let the mixture, i.e., the milk, sugar, and yolks, be placed in a jug, and the jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water. The cold jug will, of course, take the water immediately off the boil. Keep stirring the jug till the custard begins to thicken ; when nearly sufficiently thick, take the jug out of the boiHng water and plunge it into some cold water, but still continue the stirring for some time. By this means all fear of curdling will be done away with. Should the custard be flavoured with that most delicious of essences essence of vanilla the vanilla should be added when the custard is getting nearly cold, by which means more of the flavour is retained. Should the custard be flavoured by vanilla in stick, it will be found best to tie up the vanilla in a small muslin bag, and boil this bag in the milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured. This small bag of vanilla will do over and over again, though of course the bag must be left in for a longer period each time it is used, as it natui-ally will lose some of its virtue every time, and will consequently require to be left in the milk for a longer period to impart whatever of flavour is left in it. The flavour of the stick vanilla will be found to be far superior to the essence of vanilla sold in bottles ; indeed, the latter varies so much in quality that it is impossible to say how much should be added to any given quantity of custard. A little niitmeg should always be grated over the surface of the custard before it is sent to table. PRINCIPLES COLOURING SWEETS. Ixv In all departments of cooking probably that one comprised under the general name of " sweets " gives the greatest range wherein the real artist can exercise his skill. We will not now enter into the unpractical subject of describing how to build those magnificent but useless temples of barley sugar, &c., that figure at wedding breakfasts and gi-eat suppers, but will enter into the far more practical details of the general principles of making sweets look nice. As a rule, sweets are so ornamental . in themselves that they do not require what may be genei ally called garnish. For instance, a jelly or a mould of blancmange is so pretty in itself that, provided it be bright, and put into either an equally bright mit glass dish or a silver one, it requires nothing beyond. Occasionally, indeed, little pieces of cut lemon may be placed round the edge of the dish ; but this is not necessary, unless the disli be rather too large for the mould, in which case the cut lemon will cause it to look less bare. The great secret of making jellies bright is taking pains in the clearing. Patience and cleanliness are indispensable ; also bear in mind that jelly-bags should never be washed in soap and water. They should, after being used, be simply rinsed and re-rinsed in boiling water and wrung out. One important point in making sweets look nice is to exercise some little taste in colouring. "We will suppose, for instance, that there are two moulds in the house : the top of one is in the very common shape of a bunch of grapes, and the other the almost equally common shape of a cucumber. Now it is at once obvious that the cucumber should be coloui-ed gi'een and the grapes red. Suppose, therefore, two moulds are being made of, say, blancmange. The green cucumber and the red grapes on the white base will form two very pretty dishes. Unless, however, the tops are done carefully, the dish will present a very poor apjjearance indeed, in all ornamenting, unless the decollation be done neatly, it had far better not be done at all. Slovenly ornament in dishes corresjDonds to dirty finery in ordinaiy dress. We w ill suppose, therefore, the blancmange ready made and in a liquid state ready to be poured into the moulds. First pour just sufiicient water into each mould to fill up the shape of the bunch of grapes and the cucumber. Pour this back again into two glasses claret glasses are best and notice the exact quantity required for eacli. Then fill the glass with the warm blancmange to exactly the same spot. Pour in the colouring matter, which will of course be cochineal for the grapes and spinach-juice for the cucumber. As only a few drops of cochineal are required, it will not matter adding such a small quantity, but whenever colouring matter is used in which more than a few drops are required allowance should be made, or too much will be poured into the shape. When the exact quantity is coloured, pour it into the shape, and let it set quite firm before any more is poured into the mould. If possible, set the mould in some chopped ice, which will cause such a small quantity to set almost immediately. When the shape is quite set, add the remainder of the blancmange only be cai-eful how you fill the mould. If, for instance, you simply pour the blancmange in, especially if it is lukewarm, the fresh quantity Avill partially re-dissolve what has been set in the shape, and the white and red or white and green, as the case may be, will run into one another, and the effect will be quite spoilt. The best method of filling up the moulds is first to wait till the blancmange is nearly cold of coui-se avoiding waiting too long, as it would then set in the basin. Then take a spoon, and pour the first part into the mould a spoonful at a time ; this will settle gently down over the coloured part, but will not mix. After the mould has been filled by this means, say an inch deep, the whole may be gently poured in, taking care to pour very slowly, and to keeji the vessel from which the blancmange is poui-ed as Ixvi cassell's dictionary of cookery. close as possible to the mould, for if it be poured in a manner corresponding to frothing beer up in a glass it will probably break the coloui-ed shape. There is a great art in turning out jellies from moulds. Of course, a very stiff jelly is easily turned out, but then stiff jelly is never good. The best moulds for jellies are copper ones tinned inside. The mould, after being taken out of the ice, should be placed for a few seconds in lukewarm water ; the dish into which the jelly is going to be turned should be placed upside down, so that the bottom of the mould comes exactly in the centre of the dish ; the two should be quickly turned over together, and very often the jelly will at once slip of its own accord. When the mould is first raised it should be only lifted an eighth of an inch ; should the jelly have slipped all round, the mould can be slowly raised ; should, however, the jelly have slipped only on one side, instantly put the mould close on to the dish again. One very good way of causing the jelly to slip is to take the dish and mould in both hands, keeping the mould firmly touching the dish, and raise the hands high in the air, the mould being' upright. Then suddenly bring the dish downwards with a jerk, and stojD dead short when the hands are lowered. The jelly itself, having of course acquired a momentum downwards, will have a tendency to go lower, and Aviil often by this means slip from the mould into the plate. Indeed, turning out jellies requires a certain amount of pluck : a nervous cook is far more apt to fail than a strong-minded one. Some persons think that shaking and patting the mould assists ; very often, howevei-, this jiatting resu.lts in breaking. "When earthenware moulds are used it is no use jjlunging them into warm water. Earthenware conveys heat so slowly that the result would be either to convey so little heat that no effect at all is produced, or so much that all the outside of the mould Avill run. In turning anything out of an earthenware mould the only way is to jerk it out as we have described. If the substance inside the mould is firmly set, it will be advisable to see how far it can be eased round the edge by pulling gently with the tips of the fingers. The substance is elastic, and will adhere together, and can be pulled fi'om the edge of the mould all round, after which it will of course turn out easily. When copper moulds are used for jellies the greatest care should be taken in dipping them into lukewarm water, first, that the water be not too warm, secondly, that the mould does not remain in too long. Of course the effect is to very slightly dissolve the outside rim only the rim so that the jeily will have a less tendency to adhere to the mould. One very useful form of ornamenting sweets is whipped cream or whipped white of egg. Of course whipped cream is in itself a very nice sweet ; whipped white of egg can, however, be used as a cheap substitute. Take, for instance, that most delicious supper dish a trifle. Good trifle is made by soaking ratafias and macaroons in various kinds of liqueurs, though for ordinary purposes sherry and brandy are used instead. The whip for the trifle is generally best made some time before it is wanted, as by keeping a few hours it gets firmer instead of softer. The firmest whip is made by mixing the whites of eggs beaten up into a stiff froth with say a pint of fresh cream to two whites, three ounces of powdered and sifted white sugar, and about a wine-glassful of some rich sheriy the sweeter the better. The whole should be beaten up into a stiff froth, the froth of course being skimmed off the top when sufficient rises, and should be placed gently into a sieve placed on a dish. A little cream, &c., will be found to drop from the froth, and this can be poured back into the basin, the beating or whisking process being continued till all is frothed up. This froth can be made the day before it is wanted, and will be foimd an exceedingly PRIXCIPLES ICING SWEETS. Ixvii useful garnish for all sorts of dishes besides the trifle, as it is always eaSy to make more than is quite necessary for this elegant centre dish. For instance, take that nice but somewhat inelegant dish stewed Normandy pippins. Let the pippins be placed in a glass dish surrounded by their juice, which can be coloured red by a little cochineal. Then take about a tea-spoonful of the whip we have mentioned, and pile it up on the top of each pippin, and take a very few of those tiny little sweetmeats called hundreds and thousands, and sprinkle them over the whip lightly so that they stick to it, and observe what a wonderful change will take place in the appearance of the dish. The hundreds and thousands should not be added till the last moment, as they get dissolved in the whip. One very useful method of ornamenting dishes and particular cakes is what is known as icing. "We all know how very handsome, and at the same time how exceedingly rich, indigestible, and expensive, a wedding cake is. "We will, however, take the simple case of a child's birthday, and, naturally, a cake at tea is one of the features of the day's festivities. What parents should endeavour to do is as much as possible to please their children, but never at the expense of their health. Now a simple, plain cake can be bought, or made at home ; but what a difference if this simple, wholesome cake is "iced over! and, after all, what is icing] Nothing but sugar and white of eggs ; and sugar being rather good for children in moderation than otherwise, when the icing for the cake is home-made, and consequently unadulterated, there can be no harm in the children eating it. Icing for cakes can also be made into ornamental buttons, white and pink, by baking the icing on a sheet of paper, the pink buttons of course being coloured with cochineal. Icing is easily made as follows : Take, say for a good large quantity, six whites of eggs, and j)lace them in a large basin, and have ready about a pound and a half of very finely powdered and sifted white sugar. Mix these well together -with a large wooden spoon, adding the sugar gradually, occasionally squeezing in a little of the juice of a fresh and rather green or acid lemon. This must be worked together with the spoon, and sufficient sugar added till the whole mass becomes a thick, but at the same time liquid,. and somewhat shiny substance. Of course the purity of the white is of great importance, and, consequently, cai- should be taken in the selection of the sugar, which should be the whitest that can be obtained. This icing can be now spread over any cake, and one of the best spreaders will be found to be an ordinary broad ivoiy paper knife. Place a large sheet of white paper over the cake to keep ofi" the dust, and place it in a warm place to dry; then ornament the top with any wholesome sweets you may think fit, such as candied fruits of various kinds, or dried cherries. Really, icing a cake is so simple and so cheap, and gives children so much delight, that it is to be regretted it is not more generally resorted to on festive occasions. One great advantage of the icing is that you can pass off a plain and consequently a w holesome cake for a very grand one ; by this means the children can have a good thick slice, and come two or three times, without being made bilious the following day. Oranges filled with jelly {see page 482) can be cut up to ornament the top of a plain cake for children. Fruit pies and puddings require but little comment. One word of warning, however, against that too common fault of mixing fruits indiscriminately. Of course some fruits are improved by mixing ; for instance, I consider currant and raspberry tart to be the very king of tarts, but some persons are disposed to mix apples and plums, apples and black curi'ants, &c. As a rule, fruit pies are best when they only contain one fruit. Ixviii cassell's dictionary of cookery. The best sauce for puddings is German custard, which is made by putting sayfour yolks of eggs into a small stewpan, and adding to them a couple of ounces of pounded sugar, some of which before being pounded has been rubbed on a little lemon-peel. Add a glass of golden sherry, and beat this up over a very slow fire till it gets warm and frothy, but do not let it get too hot, as should it boil it would be utterly spoilt. In making sweet sauce for puddings some sherry and sugar should be added to melted butter made with milk, but instead of adding brandy, as is usually recommended, try an equal quantity of mm instead. Indeed, a couple of table-spoonfuls of rum with a little sugar and melted butter makes an admirable sauce of itself. CHEESE. With regard to cheese, little need be said : to enter into the general principles of TnaTcing cheeses would be far from our province. With regard to choosing cheeses, some of the best to be obtained now at reasonable prices are those that come from Canada. Some are, indeed, so similar to our own Cheddar and Cheshire that few can tell the difference. In choosing a Stilton, always select one that combines moisture with blue mould. This is by far the best cheese of the country. What is the secret of its composition that makes it so far superior to other cheeses I cannot say. However, be on your guard against a worthless imitation which resembles it in shape only. Persons attempt to sell this cheese as a sort of Stilton. Its outside is smoother than genuine Stilton, and its inside inferior in flavour to Dutch and common American, The best of foreign cheeses are Brie and Camenbert ; they are, however, not very easily bought, except in that most luxurious of neighbourhoods in London Soho. Pai-mesan cheese is thought by many an improvement to soups, and in Italy is almost invariably handed round with every soup served. BREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON. We will now run lightly through the ordinary daily duties of a cook, finishing up with that greatest of events in the every-day life of -each Englishman his dinner. Of course the cook must consider herself responsible for the larder and its contents, and should consequently be careful not to allow bloaters, haddocks, lobsters, crabs, &c., or any strong-smelling thing of a similar description, to remain among the cold meat, butter, &c. Again, care should be taken to keep the larder scrupulously clean, and the shelves, especially if of wood, should from time to time be scrubbed. Let me here also warn servants generally against that too common practice of putting meat on the wooden shelf instead of on a dish or slab. For instance, the butcher sends perhaps a couple of pounds of gravy beef, and a careless cook, in hot weather, places this piece of raw meat on a wooden shelf, the result being that the blood adheres to the shelf, and becomes a fruitful cause of contaminating the whole larder. The first meal of the day is of course breakfest. I believe a substantial breakfast to be most conducive to good health, yet too often we find this meal the most neglected of the day. A good breakfast and a light lunch are far better than a light breakfast and a heavy lunch. The cook should always send up to breakfast any cold joint of meat that is in the house ; the cold joint being placed on a good-sized clean dish, all wafers of fat that have settled from the gi'avy being first removed, and the whole joint nicely ornamented with fresh parsley. The parsley that has decorated a cold joint will always do to use for cooking purposes, so there is no need to ornament the joint with a stingy hand. One of the most common of breakfast dishes is fried PRINCIPLES BREAKFAST DISHES. Ixix bacon. Here, again, let the cook be careful to have the dish thoroughly hot, or else the fat from the bacon will settle and get cold in the dish, and make it look far from tempting. Fried bacon is a very good test of a cook for one reason, viz., it tests that elementary principle of cooking cleanliness. Next time you have a dish of hot fried bacon, observe the fat, and see if it is streaked with black, if so, it shows the cook does not properly clean her frying-pans, and no good cooking can ever proceed from dii-ty cooking utensils. Bloaters should always be split open like a haddock, and cooked on a gridiron kept for the purpose. The gridiron should be rubbed with a piece of mutton fat to prevent the bloater from sticking. After the bloater is cooked, rub a little piece of butter over the inside, which makes it look rich and moist, and improves the flavoui". One great advantage of cooking bloaters this way is, you avoid that di-eadful gush of offensive steam that issues forth on opening them when they are cooked whole without first being opened. Indeed, the great drawback to bloaters is the unpleasant odour. In poacliing eggs, it will be found that they assume a white appearance when a little drop of vinegar is mixed with the boiling water in which they are poached. Great care should be taken, however, to drain off the water from the flat strainer used for taking out the eggs, as they will otherwise taste acid. In frying eggs, be sure to trim them so as to have the yolk in the centre, surrounded by a neat rim of white. Too much fat in the frying-pan is conducive to increasing the lai-ge bubbles, and to sometimes even breaking the yolks of the eggs. Take care also that the fire is not too fierce, as then the under surface of the egg will get burnt and taste disagreeable. Sausages are always best home-made, for the best of reasons, viz., that you then, and only then, know what is in them. Every house should have a small sausage machine, which, in addition to making simply sausages, will make rissoles, forcemeats of all kinds, as well as croquettes. Indeed, a small hand saiisage machine repays itself quicker than almost any other kind of kitchen utensil. Sausages are best served up on toast, then the fat that runs from them can be poured over them and soaked up and eaten, and not emptied to help to swell that household disgrace the cook's grease-box. Kidneys should be cooked so as that they retain the red gravy : they are nicest done on the gi-idiron. After they are taken off, a little piece of butter should be placed in the inside of each, and a tiny pinch of chepped parsley dropped on the butter. In many houses it will be found that the staple breakfast dish is cold bacon and boiled eggs. Now, although new-laid eggs are very nice boiled, yet they are often difficult to get, and when bought are, especially in the neighbourhoods of large towns, very expensive. Shop eggs are only eaten boiled by persons whose palates are, to say the least, not veiy keen. Why not, however, make the eggs you boil and the butter you spread on your bread into a savoury omelet 1 Take say three eggs, two ounces of butter, a little pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a piece of onion or shallot the size of the top of the first finger, and chop that finely with the parsley, and you have a far more palatable method of serving the eggs. The omelet, being eaten with plain bread, becomes quite as economical, and far nicer. Luncheon is generally a make-up meal, at which it is lawful to serve up half fowls and cut tarts, and is so comprised in the details of that greater meal, dinner, that in simply observing that what is left from dinner can generally be utilised at lunch, we Ixx cassell's dictionary of cookery. will at once proceed to discuss that gi-eat event of tlie day, and will run briefly through the general principles to be observed in serving a dinner for say ten or more persons. DINNEE. We will first have a few words to say on that somewhat neglected English accompaniment, '"? appetisers." First appearances go a great way, and the cook shoiild exercise all her art and taste in presenting that delicate organ, the stomach, with a hon bouche to induce it to throw out its gastric juice with no sparing hand, in order to dissolve and digest all the glories that are to follow. Perhaps the very best commencement to a good dinner is half a dozen native oysters small, round, white, plump, and fat, and resting on a little shell black almost on the outside, but like mother-of-pearl when the delicious little fish has been swallowed. Brown bread and butter is often served with oysters ; but when eaten as an appetiser at the commencement of dinner they should be eaten cpiite alone no pepper, no vinegar, &c. Little natives are excellent appetisers : the large coarse oysters, though admirably adapted for stewing and for a variety of cooking purposes, have rather a contrary effect. In France it is customary to have little dishes of what we term appetisers placed in front of each person. I will mention a few of the best : Olives, sardines, pieces of Dutch herrings, filleted anchovies, capers, and small radishes. There is one little appetiser, so pretty and yet so efiective, and so admirably adapted to commence a dinner, that I will describe it. First cut out some small round pieces of stale bread the size of small draughtsmen, and fry them of a nice golden-brown colour in some lard, and allow them to get cold. Next stone some olives neatly, and fillet and carefully wash some anchovies. Roll uj) the filleted anchovies into a little ball, and fill the stoned olives with them. Next place a little drojj of mayomiaise sauce about the size of the top of the little finger in the centre of each round of fried bread, and place the stoned olive filled with the filleted anchovy on it on end ; the mayonnaise sauce, if made properly, viz., as thick as butter, assisting to keep the olive upright. Then place on the top of the olive another little piece (very small) of mayonnaise saiice. The whole should be eaten at one mouthful. The mingled flavour of the anchovy and olive, moistened as it is with the mayonnaise sauce, is exceedingly delicious, the crisp fried bread assisting to bring out the fl.ivour. These pretty little appetisers may be handed round, and a little highly-flavoui'ed aspic jelly may be jilaced by way of garnish on the dish with them. "We next come to the soup, which we presume the cook to have prepared the day before it is wanted. As a rule, it will always be found best to have clear soup, i.e., if only one soup is supplied. A thick soup at the commencement of dinner is too heavy, and is apt to spoil the appetite for what is to follow. For instance, thick mock-turtle or thick ox-tail soup are admirable for lunch, but at dinner are far better clear than thick. Should there be two soups, of course one should be clear and the other thick, but, as a rule, even then the thick soup should be in the form of a white soup or a bisque, rather than a thick soup that owes its thickness to brown roux. Clear turtle is far superior to thick, both in flavour and in the fact that it does not take away the appetite so readily. Next follows the fish. If only one is served at dinner, i-egard should be had to what goes before and what follows after. For instance, a rich soup had better be followed by a plain fish. Indeed, the great principle to be constantly borne in PRINCIPLES SERVING DINNER. mind in ordering a dinner is to avoid a succession of ricli things, and also to avoid a repetition of the same flavour. For instance, it is obvious to any one how exceedingly disagreeable three dishes limning would be as follows : Bisque of lobster for soup, turbot and lobster sauce for fish, and lobster patties for an entree. Still, it will often be found that cod-fish and oyster sauce are immediately followed by oyster l atties. Some repetition of flavour during a dinnei-, is, however, unavoidable. Suppose, then, in a dmner where there are four entrees, you have lobster sauce with the fish, the same lobster that made the sauce, will in addition make a very nice dish of lobster cutlets. Warn, however, the servants in handing the entrees to hand round the lobster cutlets last of all, so that there is a choice of three difierent dishes between the lobster sauce and the lobster cutlets. Too often in small houses, where the extent of kitchen range and kitchen utensils are necessarily limited, when delay or confusion arises in a dinner, it is owing to a want of forethought in those who order the dinner. The dinner should so be ordered that at any rate a certain number of the dishes can be prepared and finished beforehand. Again and such cases are very numerous where, perhaps, there is only one servant to wait, regard should be had to the dishes ordered. For instance, contrast the trouble to both cook and waiter given by the two fishes boiled salmon and stewed eels. The stewed eels can be prepared and finished early in the day, and simply requii-e putting into a hot dish. In serving the stewed eels, the waiter lias merely to go once to each person. With regard to salmon, it must be of course boiled at the last moment; it also requu'es some fish sauce, as well as cucumber. In addition, therefore, to taking the fish to each person, there is the sauce to be handed, as well as the cucumber, and, probably, in addition to the last sauce, many will ask for some anchovy sauce, or cayenne pepper, &c. : the one waiter will get muddled, and forget to take round the wine. I do not mean that this is necessarily the case; but when persons give little dinners, and know that their servants are not altogether first-class, a little forethought in ordering will often save an infinity of trouble. It is, indeed, quite possible to order a dinner, and a small one too, that implies so many saucepans in use at once that the establishment is not equal to the task, nor the fireplace large enough to hold the saucepans, even were they in sufficient quantity. Avoid, also, in ordering dinner, to have too many entrees or other dishes that can only be done the last moment. For instance, fried oysters, kromeskies, mutton-cutlets, and a savoury omelet, would be a sore trial to a cook were they ordered as four entrees together. The probable result would be that the kromeskies and fried oysters would be cooked before and warmed up in the oven, the result being that the outsides of the kromeskies would be heavy and the oysters tough. The cutlets would also be cooked and kept warm for a time. Now of all dishes there is probably none so dependent on immediate serving as cutlets. Warmed-up cutlets are never fit to eat. Indeed, the cook should never begin to cook cutlets till three or four minutes before they are wanted. They should be red and juicy inside, or they are not worth eating. A nice mutton cutlet, i.e., as I have said, red inside, and not blue and black out, is a certain sign that the cook is good. No dinner can be properly served unless there is a perfectly good understanding between the cook and those waiting at table. It will be found very desirable for the cook to arrange beforehand some signal with those up-stairs, in. order that she may know when to commence getting ready any particular dish. Ixxii cassell's dictionary of cookery. It is so easy for those waiting to touch the dining-room bell in order to warn the cook. Too often the cook, from over-anxiety, will become fidgety, and get everything ready too soon, the i-esvilt being a series of over-cooked dishes, either half cold or having that warmed-up taste which so often spoils them. It is far better at dinner to have occasional pauses, than to have a series of spoilt dishes. Indeed, a little management on the part of the host or hostess will very oftell smooth over these awful pauses in the middle of dinner. A little intentional delay over eating what was last handed and a brisk conversation are great helps. The wine can also always be taken round while waiting for the cook to send up the next dish. In fact, after persons have had some soup or fish and an entree, a pause is rather agreeable than otherwise, unless it is accompanied by a dead silence, which makes everybody uncomfortable. Probably the most constant failui'e at dinner-pai'ties I use the expression in distinction to every-day dinners is the j?ece de resistance. Cooks will hurry with the joint. How often will it be seen that the joint is placed on the table immediately the fish is removed, and there kept till all the entrees are handed round and eaten and the plates removed. In addition to this, probably the cook took the joint off the spit or out of the oven long before it was even sent to table. Indeed, I have known cooks take down the joint because they say they want to get at the fii-e. The consequence is that when the cover is removed no steam rises, the meat is warm, but not hot, and alas ! alas ! the gravy in the well of the dish is caked over with an icy sheet of fat. In fact, the joint is not worth eating. What should happen is, that after the last entree has been eaten, and a hot plate put round to each person, the joint should arrive. Never mind waiting even two or three minutes, but when the cover is lifted, the rush of steam for we presume a hot and a really hot cover will more than make amends for the slight delay. A nice hot haunch or leg of mutton with the gravy in it red and that outside steaming is one of the nicest dishes sent to table. On the other hand, lukewarm, flabby mutton and cold gravy are absolutely disagreeable. Nothing spoils a dinner more than feeling the roof of the mouth has got, so to speak, encrusted in mutton fat. Now, sending a joint up to table as we have said, hot arid at the right moment, requires management and forethought, and very often the cook does not possess either of these requirements, and the mistress of the house, when she finds the cook wanting in these respects, should take the responsibility on herself. Indeed, sometimes it is necessary to give positive orders with regard to the joint being taken down. The cook may be fussing down-stairs in the firm belief that she will be all behindhand, and that the people above will be kept waiting. But let her fuss, but obey her orders, and not take the joint off the spit till she hears the bell ring. After one or two successful results, the cook will herself see how feasible it is to wait, and she may be rewarded afterwards, pei-haps, by hearing from the neighbours' servants that their master or mistress has said they like dining at Mr. 's the dinner always comes up so nice and hot. We have befoi-e called attention to the fact that in nearly all private houses at dinner-parties the game is invariably over-cooked. What cooks should do, is to endeavour to learn by experience. For instance, let every cook, when she sends up the soup, look at the kitchen clock suppose the dinner is for ten persons, and that it consists of soup, fish, four entries, two joints, and game. Let her then again look at the kitchen clock when the game is asked for, and act accordingly another PRINCIPLES SERVING DINNER. b time. It is quite impossible to lay down any exact rule for the length, of a dinner, ?wliicli indeed varies, some houses being always I don't know why quicker than others. Perhaps the difference is dependent on the host's conversational powers. The success of dinner very much depends upon the forethought of those who wait. First, let the cloth be laid a good hour before dinner, and let the waiter remember this one great principle of success Let everything be in the room that is possible beforehand. No dinner can be successful when the waiter or waitress has fii'st to run down-staii'S to get some more bread, then to disappear again for the red-currant jelly to hand with the mutton, or the mustard with the beef, and so on through dinner. It is so easy to look ahead. Again, it is shocking bad management to have to open fresh sherry in the middle of dinner. If champagne be served, either have enough or don't give any. I consider one bottle of champagne sent round for eight or ten persons far worse than giving none at all. Have also the wires of the champagne bottles taken off beforehand : it saves time. It also saves time to put a good-sized piece of bread to each person at starting. It is quite ridiculous to see what small pieces of bread, or what tiny little rolls, are put round at some houses. Some persons' dinners are quite spoilt for want of bread, and bread is one of those things that even good waiters are very apt to forget to hand of their own accord. It is not pleasant at dinner, unless you are very intimate with the people, to have to ask for things. Let each person remember in how many instances their dinner has been spoilt by the want of bread, and at any rate i-esolve that in theii- own houses they will take precautions not to spoil the dinners of their guests. It is a good plan to tell the waiter to hand round some bread eai'ly in the dinner, and have it cut up, some large pieces, and some small. Some persons are what may be termed greedy bread-eaters, and by this means you give them a chance to help themselves. It is exceedingly annoying to have a nice piece of partridge or woodcock getting cold on one's plate, and to see it and smell it while waiting for bread, ' It will always, too, be advisable to have the bread so kept that it is what may be called a happy medium between being too new and too dry. New bread should never be eaten with meat, as it is exceedingly indigestible. The meat in. sandwiches which is cut from new bread is apt to tui-n bad very quickly, and it will be found that new bread eaten at dimier has the unamiable tendency of causing the dinner to disagree. One very important point essential to the good order of a dinner is that the cook or head-waiter should calculate beforehand the probable number of plates, knives, and forks that will be required, and to be jjrepared, so that the supply of either does not fail. We will take the ordinary and simple case of a dinner-party of twelve persons, the dinner consisting of soup and fish, four entrees, two joints say roast beef and boiled fowl game, and sweets the latter being pie and pudding and four side dishes. Now there are probably very few establishments that would be capable of going through a dinner of this description without washing up some things during the time dinner is proceeding. First, there will be required twelve soup plates and twelve dessert-spoons. Now, unless the plate chest is of an unusual magnitude, these same dessert-spoons will probably be again requii'ed for the sweets, as should these latter be at all of good quality a relay of spoons may very possibly be required for them. But it is the large forks that will be found to require the greatest care. For instance, supposing in the dinner we have mentioned that each person Ixxiv cassell's dictionary of cookery. takes fish, two entrees, a slice off one of the joints, and some game a fail- average, we believe, of what ordinary healthy people would eat. This means sixty large silver forks, and probably the establishment only boasts twenty-four. What is universally done, even at large public dinners, is for the forks to be quickly washed immediately they are taken out of the room. For this purpose ther-e should be two good-sized jugs just outside the dining-room door, one containing hot soda and water, and the other plain cold water ; also there should be handy a couple of cloths. As the forks are cleared away, let them be fii'st wiped on a dishcloth, then plunged into the hot soda and water, and shaken backwards and forwards for a few seconds, and then i hinged into the cold water and again rinsed, and then dried on a clean cloth. A dozen forks can by this means be washed under a minute. Now exactly the same principle applies to the plates as to the forks, only these latter of course must be washed up down-stairs. In the dinner in question, sixty large plates woidd be as requisite as the sixty large forks. Should there be therefore two persons waiting at table, another person acting as a messenger between the dining-room and kitchen and the cook down-stau-s ; if each and every one of these persons understands his and her duty, there should be no delay, no confusion, and above all no talking or whispering on the part of those waiting. The cook downstairs should have ready at the commencement of dinner two lai*ge tubs, one full ot hot water with plenty of soda in it, the other full of plain hot water. The plates should be treated just like the forks, fii-st scraped or wiped the former is the best, and there are indiarubber combs sold for the purpose next plunged into the hot soda and water, and again wiped with a dishcloth ; then rinsed for a few seconds in the hot water without soda, and then allowed to drain on the rack, or they may be quickly wiped. In washing up in the ordinary method, it is customary to wash the plates in hot soda and water first, and then rinse them in cold water. In washing up, however, during dinner, recollect it is necessary that the plates should be hot. Consequently, by rinsing the plates in hot water to get rid of the soda and water the temperature of the plate is maintained, though, of course, if there was sufficient time it would be advisable to place the plates on the plate- warmer. WASHING UP. I would, however, here give a few words of advice to cooks about this very subject of washing up, which is highly important. Now you all know how very quickly a dozen plates are washed up, supposing they are wanted immediately for the dinner that is going on. Probably the dozen dirty fish plates and the two dozen plates iised for the entrees are qiiickly washed. Yet how is it that you will not persevere and wash up all the tilings as they come down-stairs, down to the cheese plates, instead of as a rule only going on washing as long as you know the things are wanted immediately % Half an hour's more perseverance at the time would probably save you two hours' work later on. Yet it is your custom to give up washing as soon as you know they have -got enough to finish with up-stairs ; and consequently, after dinner is over, the wash-house or back kitchen, as the case may be, jjresents the appearance of stacks of dii'ty plates getting cold, the grease hardening and settling on them, while heaps of dirty forks and spoons are lying by the side. The amount of trouble that would be saved by washing all these up at once is something wonderful. Recollect that the time- taken to wash up two dozen plates is not double the time taken to wash one dozen. What occupies the time pi'incipally is getting the things ready the hot water, the. tubs, &c. PRINCIPLES WASHING UP. Ixxv Another point for the cook to bear in mind is that joints on being removed from the table sboukl never be allowed to get cold or to be put away in the dish in v hich they were sent to table containing the gravy. Let the joint be placed on a cold clean dish, and let the gi'avy be poured off through a small strainer, in order to get rid of the fat on it, into a small basin, and be put by : this gravy being useful for a variety of purposes, either to act as gravy again, or it can be added to the stock ; or should there be very young children in the family it can be made into a dish of bread and gi'avy for the early dinner. Another point of warning to cooks in reference to their usual method of pouring away the dirty water in which things have been washed. They empty the large tubs into the sink, causing the sink to be some inches deep in water, and which requires time to run down. However, impatience is natural to all of us, and too often, to save time, as they imagine, cooks will pull up the strainer in the sink bodily, upon which the water goes down fast enough, finishing with a grunt of satisfaction. But, alas ! in addition to running a considerable risk of blocking up the pipes, this is the fruitful cause of losses of all descrij tions in the shape of forks, spoons, &c., that get overlooked in the sink, and that get sucked down with the water. A case once came under my immediate notice, in which the pipe leading from the sink to the dram was blocked up, the cause being that no less than five steel knives were found wedged in the pipe near the bend, all of which had necessarily got down, owing to the foolish habit of lifting the strainer. Again, these strainers are used as traps, in order to prevent unpleasant odours rising in the house. A strainer once lifted is very apt to be forgotten, and the sink is thus often put into open communication with the drain ; the sewer gas rises in the house, spreading the deadly seeds of fever. The same remarks that applied to the washing of plates and spoons and forks apply equally to the washing of glass. Glass should always be washed in plain cold water. Now it is evident that a tumbler, say that has contained stout, or a wineglass that has contained port Avine, will be easily washed when moist, but that if the stout or port be allowed to get diy in the glass that some time will have to be expended in cleaning it. Directly glasses are brought down-stairs they should be rinsed in cold water and turned upside down to get dry by themselves. Wet glasses take a long time to dry, and when dried generally present a fluffy appearance, that necessitates theii* being re-wiped. Let, therefore, the glasses dry themselves, and when dry let them be polished with a good large soft leather ; and, whatever you do, do not use the glass leather for any other purpose save that of polishing the glass. Again, glasses when dried with a cloth are very apt to break, especially those that have very thin stems, as the cloth sticks to the glass, and in twisting it is apt to crack. When, therefore, a leather is used care should be taken that it is perfectly dry, as a damp leather is as liable to break glass as a damp cloth is. When dinner is brought to a close, those waiting should bear in mind that their first thought shovild be the table. It will sometimes be found that in clearing away this is ovei-looked, and that the waiters begin what may be termed clearmg the poom before they finish clearing the table. The one thought should be, not to keep people waiting one instant longer than is absolutely necessary. Consequently, it is more important to put the wine glasses, wine, &c., on the table than it is to get rid of some of the things that may have been left from the dinner in the room. Where there are two persons waiting it will be found a gi-eat saving of time if one carries a large tray in both hands whilst the other removes the things quickly and quietly from the table and places them on it. Ixxvi CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. There is one point in connection with dinner that should never be forgotten, and tliat is the importance of having a menu. When the dishes are not placed on the table a menu is absolutely essential ; and even when the dishes are placed on the table it is always desirable to know first, what the dishes are ; secondly, what is going to follow. In many private houses a menu is omitted because the host and hostess think that having one has the apjiearance of ostentation. This is, however, a very mistaken notion. How often do persons pass by perhaps their favourite dish simply because they have taken something before, not knowing it was coming. Again, how often would some small eaters decide on say a second piece of mutton or not according to whether game would follow ! There is a story told of some great gourmand, who was taken in by a friend in the following manner : A leg of mutton was placed on the table, and the gourmand was informed that he saw his dinner before him, and, as was his wont, he accordingly ate freely, while his so-called friend scarcely touched a mouthful. What the gourmand's feelings were when a tine splendid haunch of venison followed the mutton can better be imagined than described. He is reported, however, to have said, " It was a ci-uel thing not to have told me." Whether such a piece of exquisitely bad taste was ever perpetrated or not we don't know, but the story serves to illustrate our point about the menu, as without one recollect, to a lesser extent, the guests are treated like the unfortunate gourmand. Little decorated sheets of paper are now sold for the purpose, and form an additional ornament to the dinner-table. When all the plates and glasses are cleared oflf the table, it is customary for all the crumbs likewise to be removed; for this, however, avoid using those useless things called crumb-brushes, which are the means too often of sending nearly as many crumbs on to the floor as on to the tray as when the brush is used quickly the bristles bend and cause the ci-umbs to fly over the edge. There is a small silver shovel now used for the purpose, which is far better, and when one of these is not at hand, an ordinary table-napkin will answer very well. COFFEE. Before coming to that most important subject, wine, let us have a few words to say about cofiee. Cofiee, we all know, grows in tropical climates, and not in France, yet how is it that in that country we almost invariably get a good cheap cup of cofiee, and yet in this country we rarely do 1 On the other hand, it seems equally strange that the French have not the power to make an ordinary cup of tea. Sxich at least is my experience of the greater part of France. I believe the two chief causes of the usual superiority of French cofiee over English is that the former always have their cofiee fresh roasted as well as fresh gi'ound ; secondly, that they use a good deal more cofiee than we do. The too common custom in England is to buy the cofiee ready ground from a grocer's. This when kept in a tin will make very fair good cofiee, but after a time it loses its aroma. ' To get cofiee absolutely fresh roasted is not so easy a matter in this country, but it will always be found an improvement to put the berries for a short time into the oven before grinding them. There is such an infinite variety of machines for making cofiee that we cannot possibly enumerate them all. The best method I know of is the ordinary percolator. The cofiee-pot must of course be first made thoroughly hot, and the strainer carefully cleansed from what has been in before. The cofiee is then placed in the top receptacle. PRINCIPLES COFFEE WINE. Ixxvii and pressed down, and the boiling water poured on the top. It should then be allowed to trickle slowly through of course the longer the water is in contact with the coffee the better it wUl be. When coffee is not quite bright it will often settle bright when allowed to stand for some time. Indeed, the old-fashioned plan of putting the coffee into a coffee-pot and boiling it over the fii'e is b} no means a bad method, only the coffee must be allowed a long time to settle. At any rate, this method has the advantage of getting all the goodness out of the coffee. The Mocha coffee is the best, the aroma being superior to any other kind. Coffee, too, should be coarsely ground. Indeed, some persons maintain that it is best pounded in a mortar very coarsely, and not grovind at all. Much less wine is drunk after dinner now than formerly, and good strong black coffee should be served up very soon after dinner is finished. Boiling milk should always accompany coffee. WINE. We now come to another subject in reference to dinner, and that is the wine. It is not, however, on the manufacture of wines that I shall treat, but on the selection of wine. It is, of course, of the utmost importance that diu-ing dinner the fluid food should be adapted to and kept in harmony with the solid food. There can be no doubt that all persons, not merely wine merchants but the public generally, approach the subject of wine with an immense amount of prejudice, which it is absolutely impossible to get rid of entii-ely. The late Mr. Francatelli, who was formerly chef to Her Majesty the Queen, and recently the manager of the " Freemasons' Tavern," and with whom I have had many conversations on the subject of the principles of cookery, has justly observed in his famous work, " The Modern Cook," that " the palate is as capable, and nearly as woi-thy, of education as the eye and the ear." Now we should recollect that our palate, especially on the subject of wine, has undergone an unconscious education, and we have certain fixed standards of excellence that are after all really only arbitrary standai'ds. It will be found in this country that the universal feeling among the people is in favour of a good heavy poi't or sherry. In all the large London hospitals it is found that the poor absolutely despise any other kind of wine. On the other hand, the best-educated palates invariably prefer, at any rate with food, a light wine, such as hock or claret. We unconsciously in judging of all kinds of new wines compare them with certain good Avines to which we are accustomed such as Clos-Yougeot the king of Burgundies or Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafitte, or Chateau Latour the best of the clarets or to some fine hock, sherry, port, or Madeira. Again, all sparkling wines are unconsciously compared with champagne, such as Pommery and Greno, or to sparkling hock or Moselle. Now, although these wines are admirable in themselves, it does not follow that they and they only are standards of perfection. To say which is the finest-flavoured wine would be as impossible as to say which is the most beautiful colour, or which is the most beautiful piece of music. The world is changing very rapidly, and probably in no previous part of our history have we as a nation undergone so rapid and complete a change as during the past few years. Let any one contrast the general mode of living now with what it was only twenty-five years ago. The change has undoubtedly been in favour of increase of luxmy. Our fathers used to be content with a glass or so of sheny at dinner, and a Ixxviii cassell's dictionary of cookery. few glasses of port after, and generally took beer with dinner as well. Claret was considered a somewhat expensive luxury, and when introduced was generally brought on only at dessert for the purpose of finishing up with, being often drunk after port. Now, however, it is a most common custom to drink claret with dinner instead of beer. Of course the reason is that claret, and good claret too, can be now obtained in this country at a very cheaji rate. Indeed, a most excellent sound claret can be bought for 16s. a dozen only go to a respectable -wine merchant, and always taste the wine before you buy it. We will now endeavour to examine into the general principles to be observed in the service of wine. For instance, we know that it is customary to take a glass of Chablis with oysters, a glass of Madeira after turtle soup, a glass of dry sherry with fish, (fee, but why we do so is by no means so evident. Nature seems to tell us that port wine would be unsuitable with fish, nor do we think any one would care to sip hock, however good, with walnuts. However, we learn by experience that there are certain flavours that combuie together, and apparently suit, and others that do not. For instance, Chablis after oysters. Oysters have a strong flavour, and a light thin wine like Chablis cleanses the palate after eating them, and somehow the oyster seems to make tlie wine taste better. On the other hand, try a glassful of champagne after eating oysters, and you will find that you cannot detect the flavour of the champagne at all. Again, turtle i.s a rich, glutinous soup, and after a very rich dish some wine is required to cleanse the palate of a more generous nature than Chablis or hock: consequently, Madeira, or good East India sherry, or rum punch, is taken. After a light entree, such as a Vol-au-vent k la Financiere, or boiled fish of any kind, or whitebait, hock or pale sherry would be most appropriate. After a rich and glutinous fish like stewed eels, or after any entree with strong rich brown gravy, the palate requires something rather more stimulating, and, in my opinion, no wine in the world is equal to Burgundy to drink with dinner, either with water or without. Still, claret, though not so stimulating, is an admirable wine to drink after rich dishes. I think it will be foimd that the general principle, that the richer the dish the more stimulatmg must be the wine, holds true for nearly all kinds of food. For instance, roast pork is a rich dish, and it is one of the few kinds of food that persons drink port wine after. Roast goose is another rich dish, and it is customary after eating roast goose to have a small liquor glass of brandy. I have a little further on quoted Francatelli's opinion with regard to the service of wine, and it will be seen that he particularly calls attention to the absurd custom of serving sweet champagne early in dinner. As a rule, however, champagne is generally dry in this country. The Duke de Montebello's sec, Pommery and Greno's extra sec, and Heidseck's Monopole, are all admirable dry wines, and we think the former, though not equal in repute to the two latter, is quite their equal, both in quality and flavour. I would, however, caution persons against introducing champagne early in the dinner at all, whether it be dry or not. Indeed, it will be found best if the champagne be dry not to serve it till the pi ce de resistance has made its appearance. If the champagne be at all sweet, it had better not be served till the sweets. The French taste is far sweeter than the English: for instance, you will often see a body of grown-up Frenchmen enjoying sweets and dessert, including even sugar plums, m a way that in England is only seen with young children. Cham PRINCIPLES WINE. Ix iix pagne in France is almost universally drank after dinner in the same way in which we should finish np -vvith a bottle of claret. But then it should be remembered that the majority of the champagne in France is very sweet ; the champagne-growers adapting nearly the whole of the wine that is sent to England to suit the English taste, and it will generally be found that champagne in England has the word " England " branded on the side of the cork. How far the French are right and we wrong, or vice versd, in thus preferring sweet champagne to dry is a matter of taste. However, there can be no doubt that the taste for dry wines can be carried too far, and that there should be some limit beyond which the dryness of a wine should not be carried. For instance, take the case of the Duke of Montebello's first brand : there is the sec and the maximum sec. Now, in our opinion, the latter is inferior to the former. Again, there is some champagne in which the dryness of the wine has been carried to such a pitch as to cause it to resemble soda-water rather than wine. In fact, there has been of late years a rage for dry wines of every description, especially port. This rage for diy wine, like most other fashions, was carried to an extreme, and was conseqxiently followed by a reaction. The rage for dry port has already ceased, and probably before long there will be a slight reaction in the present rage for diy champagne. We have, of course, omitted all mention of home-made wines, though recipes for making them will be found under their various headings in the present work. Wine, properly speaking, is the fermented juice of the grape, and as this country possesses a climate too cold to allow of the cultivation of the grape in any quantity, it is evident that we must look elsewhere for our supply of pure and genuine -wine. At present our supply is almost entirely confined to France, Germany, Spain, and Portugal, and we must necessarily at present make the various vintages fi-om these countries our models, as, indeed, is but just, as much of the excellence of these wines is due to the care taken in the cultivation of the vines. Nothing but the experience of a number of years of trial could have brought this cultivation to its present pitch of perfection. There are, however, other countries in the world that produce the grape in great abundance, and it is to some of these countries that make wine not so well known as our familiar port, sherry, madeira, claret, burgimdy, and hock that we shall have to CiiU attention by-and-by. We shall, in particular, after running through the various well-known wines and vintages, call attention to the much-neglected wines of Australia, made from vines that are grown on our own dominions, and which, there can be no doubt, are destined to enter before long into this country in tenfold greater quantities than they do at present when their excellence is better known and better appreciated. Let those who doubt this ask their Avine merchant to procure them a single sample bottle of Australian dry muscat of Alexandria. Let any comioisseur of wine ask himself the simple question, Can any country that is capable of producing such magnificent wine as this fail to make a show in the wine-producing countries of the world ? But before entering into the details of the various wines, I will quote what Mr. Francatelli's opinions on the subject were, and, as I have always entei-tained such a profound respect for his opinions on the subject of cookery, I trust that I may be pardoned for giving the quotation at some length : " The judicious service of wines at the dimier-table is essential to the complete success of a well-ordered and recherche dinner; for on the manner and order in which Ixxx cassell's dictionary of cookery. this service is conducted will chiefly depend the more or less favourable judgment awarded (independently of theii* real claims to superiority) to the "wines put before the guests. First, let it be remembered that all possible care should be taken in removing the bottles from their bins, and afterwards, also, in handling them for the purpose of drawing the corks and decanting the wines not to disturb any deposit that may exist in the bottles, for that deposit, if shaken, destroys not only the brilliancy of the wine? but impairs its flavour and bouquet. " The difierent kinds of sherries, ports, madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines in general, ax'e the better for having been decanted several hours before being drank. During winter their aroma is improved by the temperature of the diningroom acting upon their volatile properties for an hour or so before dinner-time. By paying due attention to this part of the process, all the mellowness which good wines acquire by age predominates to the delight of the epicure's grateful palate. The lighter wines, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and most of the wines of Italy, should be most carefully handled, and decanted an hour only before dinner-time. In winter the decanters should be either dipped in warm water or else placed near the fire to warm them for about ten minutes previously to their being used. In summer, use the decanters without warming them, as the genial warmth of the atmosphere will be all-suflicient, not only to prevent chilling the wines, but to develop their fragrant bouquet. Moreover, let these, and all delicate wines, be brought into the diningroom as late as may be consistent with convenience. " And now as regards the order in which wines should be served during dinner. I woiild recommend all bon vivants desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of wines to bear in mind that they should be drank in the following order, viz. : When it happens that oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne is their most proper accompaniment ; genuine old Madeira, or East India sherry, or Amontillado, proves a welcome stomachic after soup of any kind, not excepting turtle, after eating which, as you value your health, avoid all kinds of punch, especially Roman punch. During the service of fish, cause any of the following to be handed round to your guests : Amontillado, Hock, Tisane, Champagiae, Pouilly, Meursault, Sauterne, Arbois, Vin de Grave, Montrachet, Chateau-Grill6, Barsac, and generally all kinds of dry white wines." Having enumerated a variety of difierent kinds of Bordeaux, Bui-gundy, Champagne, and other wines, Mr. Francatelli proceeds to say, " A question of the highest importance, but into which I may but briefly enter, is to determine to which of all these wines a decided preference should be given, both with regard to taste and also in respect to their influence on the health of difierent temperaments. It is easier to settle the latter part of the question than the former, inasmuch as it is difficult, not to say impossible, to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate. Thus there are some who delight in the perfumed yet austere bouquet of Bordeaux, while others prefer the delicate fragrance of Champagne ; some give the palm to the generous and mirth-inspiring powers of Burgundy ; while the million deem that Madeii-a (when genuine), port, and sherry, from what are termed their generous natures, ignoring the plentiful admixture of alcohol, are the only wines worthy of notice. All these tastes are no doubt well enough founded on good and sufficient reasons, and may prove safe indicators for the preservation of health ; for instance, a person of sanguine temperament feels a necessity for a light sapid wine, such as genuine Champagne and Rhenish wines, while the phlegmatic seek those of a more spiiituous, generous nature Burgundy, port, PRINCIPLES WINE. Ixxxi Madeira, or sherry. Those who are a prey to spleen, lowness of spirits, and melancholy, are prone to select, as a sure and pleasant remedy for their frightful ailments, the wines of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Roussillon, and Burgundy. The bilious, who generally are blessed with a good appetite, provided always that they do not smoke, require a generous wine which, while capable of acting both as an asti'ingent and a dissolvent of the bile, is of facile digestion ; such are the properties of all first-class Boi'deaux wines. Bordeaux is said to be a cold wine ; this false notion arises out of mere prejudice nothing can be more contrary to truth. This health-restoring wine, as I have already stated, is easy of digestion, and possesses moreover the advantage of being very considerably less inebriating than any other first-class wine. In short, Burgundy is exciting, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux stomachic. It now remains to show the order in which the several soii;s of wines enumerated above should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. It is generally admitted by real yoiirmets that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is to commence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrees, any of the following Burgundy wines : Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Vermanton, Irancy, Mercui*ey, Chassagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Magon and Auxerre. These may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency. These again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Yolnay, Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanee. "With the second course roasts, dressed vegetables, and savoury entremets honour your guests by gi'aciously ushering to their notice sparkling Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumieres, the brilliant Sillery, the glorious Hermitage, Cote-rotie, and Chateau-Grille. "With the service of the entremets de douceur or, as we have it, the sweets let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne, or Moselle, be handed round ; but, far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of A'i petiUant Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey, Madeira, and East India Sherry." Mr. Francatelli then proceeds to state, " So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country that it woxild be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner, the list being as follows : Dessert Wines. Muscat-Frontignan Madeira Muscat-Lunel Malmsey, Madeira Muscat-Rivesalte Sj-racuse Grenache Tokay VindePaiUe Constance Malaga Carcavallos Rota PicoH Alicante Schiras I have before observed that we all of us of necessity approach the subject of wine with a certain amount of pi-ejudice, and I have consequently given at some length Mr. Francatelli's opinion on this subject, written in the year 1862. It should be remembered, too, that Mr. Francatelli occupied during his life the high positions Ixxxii cassell's dictionary of cookery. of chef at the Reform Club, chef to Her Majesty the Queen, and manager of the Fi-eemason's Tavern. It would be affectation in any one, consequently, to despise the opinion of one who had had so much opportunity for studying the tastes of the most wealthy members of what is probably the most luxurious country in the world. Still we must confess that in reading so goodly a list of dessert wines that, notwithstanding the great authority that penned it, Ave feel that it cannot be considered complete without the addition of what may be called our grand national wine good genuine port. In fact Francatelli wrote for, comparatively speaking, a small class who lead to a gTeat extent artificial lives. In treating generally the subject of the service of wine, exactly the same general principles have to be considered as in treating the subject of food. The two chief points are : first, the habits of life of those served; secondly, the time of year, or, rather, we should say the climate. To lay down general recommendations with regard to dinner, we must first consider the mode of life of the eater. For instance, take two cases. The one of a City man, say a jobber on the Stock Exchange, who passes his day in a hot scene of intense excitement, the wear and tear upon the nervous system being teriific. He returns home exhausted, but not hungry : the reaction of comparative rest in too many cases being spoilt by another reaction felt after taking occasional stimulants during the day, such stimulants being felt necessary at the time. Contrast such a one and the case is tyjiical of a very large class whose brains are over-taxed, such as hard-worked barristers, lawyers, hospital physicians, &c. contrast such a one. with the stout jolly farmer, who rises at five, and after a heavy and substantial breakfast, j asses his day on horseback, i-eturns home with a wolfish a,ppetite, his sole care and anxiety being that Farmer Styles' wheat is abovit half an inch higher than his own. We can well understand his feelings expressed in the gi-aphic words "None of your kickshaws !" Half a dozen oysters and a glass of chablis would be as unsuitable a commencement of dinner for the latter as thick pea soup and underdone roast beef cut thick, with a draught of strong homebrewed ale, would be for the former. Probably were we to take the whole, of those who in this country are in the habit of drinking wine habitually, we should find that by far the greater number are in the habit of taking a little sheny with dinner in addition to beer, and a glass or two of poi-t wine afterwards. A sip of sherry after soup, and a glass after both fish and svv eets, seems almost necessary. Indeed, I think that where there is absolutely no wine, I would prefer to dine off the joint, or, at any rate, butchers' meat alone ; but prefacing that a little good beer is far preferable to bad sherry, we will first take this most popular of English dinner-wines, and have a few words to say with regard to its selection and keeping. Sherry may be di\T.ded into two classes dinner sherry and after-dinner sherry. I am here speaking of comparatively cheap sherry, as of course good old East India sherry worth 7s. or 8s. a bottle is exceedingly good with dinner as well as after, but then in the generality of houses we expect to get sherry that has cost from 24s. to 36s. a dozen. I know sherry can be bought as low as 15s. a dozen, even in single bottles, at least a compound called sherry I have, indeed, tasted it. I should imagine that it is bought by that class of persons, who not knowing what really good sherry is, yet occasionally like to have some on their tables for show. Indeed, the greater part of the really bad and unwholesome wine that is drunk is consumed by this class vulgar persons who attempt to live in the same style as their better-educated and wealthier PRINCIPLES SHERRY. Ixxxiii neighbours. These persons would consume almost anything, as indeed a stoiy that went the round of the papers a short time back shows. Some colliers in the North, during the time when men were earning far more money than they knew how to spend, walked into a hotel, and asked for some port, on the ground, as they said among themselves, of that being the wine " the quality drank." The hotel-keeper, on his return after a short absence, found his daughter in the bar in the act of sending up a third bottle oif the top shelf, where port was generally kept, two previous bottles having been drank and paid for. The bottles, however, were port bottles, but contained mushroom ketchup; and we can only say with regard to the 15s. sherry, that it would have made an admirable " whitewash," as Sheridan's glass is still sometimes called, on the occasion in question. When sherry is consumed in any quantity, it will generally be found best to keep it in the wood. A quarter cask contains close upon fourteen dozen of wine, or twenty-eight gallons. Any respectable wine merchant will supply a good pale dry dimier-wine at j?15 for a quarter cask. I do not think you can depend upon a really good wine cheaper, and though a quarter cask of sherry can be bought for ?10, I am confident that the wine at ?15 is x-eally the cheapest in the ti-uest acceptation of the word. Ordinary wine of this description will be found best in the wood, nor indeed does it materially improve by being kept in bottles for years. I would here disabuse some of your minds from a too-common fallacy. Many persons imagine that because some fine old wine is good, that therefore all old wine is good. Old bottled wine, to be worth anything, must possess a certain quality before it is bottled, or it will not merely not improve, but absokitely deteriorate, and ultimately become bad. I would illustrate this point by beer. We all know that fine strong Burton ale trade mark A 1 , as it is called will keep for years, aiid improve in bottle. If, however, we bottle thin table-beer, the result is that even in one year's time it turns sour. So it is with wine thin cheap port and sherry will not keep beyond a certain time. Good rich sherry, well selected, will keep for almost any length of time, and is always best kept in the wood. There is sherry to be got now in the wood over fifty years of age of course the price is very high. Wlien this sort of wine is bottled, about six or eight years is necessary to give it a peculiar twang only obtained by bottling, much admired by connoisseurs. Good sherry of this description should be decanted some little time before it is wanted. One great advantage of drawing off ordinary sherry from the wood is that it is always bright. Sometimes in bottled sherry, especially of a rather superior class, it will be found that the last glass or half-glass is a little thick ; in decanting sherry, therefore, bear in mind to reserve this little drop and not make the whole decanter cloudy for its sake. When sherry is known to be like this it will be found best to put a bottle upright two or three days before it is Avanted ; then, if decanted carefully, and so that the light can be seen through the bottle, very little indeed need be wasted. Never throw away the dregs of any kind of wine, but have what is called a cooking bottle : the dregs of sherry when mixed together will settle down, and do for flavouring gravies, such as salmi sauce or mock-turtle soup. The dregs, too, of port wine do for jugged hare, venison, kc. Some sherry, especially of a very light, delicate colour, will occasionally have a slight taste of sulphur. I believe this is owing to the wine originally being carried on mules' backs in. Spain in skins, which skins have been rubbed with sidphur. Ixxxiv cassell's Dictionary of cookery. This peculiar flavour, though slightly impairing the delicacy of the wine, is not, however, unwholesome. In selecting sherry, of course everything depends upon the. palate of the taster. It is, however, often best to leave this selection to the wine merchant, always bearing in mind that it is impossible to get a fine wine for 18s. a dozen. The chief point to be avoided in sherries is spirit. Some of the very cheap sherry contains a great deal of an exceedingly unwholesome spirit wood spirit, in fact, wliich is very injurious. These fiery sherries are almost the worst form of stimulant in which persons can indulge. Remember, therefore, in buying sherry that there is no such thing as a bargain, save at sales by auction. When any person ofiers you three sixpences for a shilling, you may depend upon it that at least two out of the three must be bad ones. It is tjuite impossible to get a pure, wholesome wine at Is. 3d. a bottle ; and it is to be regi-etted that such large quantities of injurious wine are allowed to be sold in this country, as well as had spirits. Indeed, many of the unfortunate poor who are charged with drunkenness are in reality more poisoned than drunk, and many of those shocking outbvirsts of wild ferocity that too often appear in the police reports are the results of the brain being maddened temporarily by j oisonous liquors. We will next proceed to discuss port probably still the most really popular Avine in this country. Much that has been said of cheap sherry applies equally to cheap port, the only difierence being that port is a somewhat dearer wine than shei-ry. When the consumption of wine in a house is large, it will be found advisable to draw the port for every -day drinking from the wood, i.e., if you feel sure you will finish the cask within twelve months. When port is kept in the wood too long it is apt to lose colour and deteriorate in flavovir. The minimum price at which I should say a fairly sovmd palatable port can be bought would be about ?18 for a quarter cask, i.e., twenty-eight gallons, or between thirteen and fourteen dozen of wine. Port varies very much witli the year and also with the time of bottling. The most famous vintages are 1820, 18.34, 1840, 1847, 1863, and 1870. The 1840 port is a splendid dry wine that still retains its colour in perfect integrity, and when authenticated will fetch a guinea a bottle. The 1847 port varies immensely, some being rather sweet. It is still a very rich wine, and wlien bottled early is nearly equal to the 1840, though not so dry. Very few vintages promise better than the 1870, the wine already fetching 48s. a dozen. Port wine throws a crust on the bottle, which crust should be transparent. Great care should be taken in decanting the wine not to break this crust. Consequently the bottle, which of course is laying on its side in the cellar, should be moved very gently, the cork drawn without shaking the bottle if possible, the wine then poured into the decanter through a wine strainer in which a piece of fine muslin has been placed, and the wine must be watched as it is gently poured out, taking care to keep the same side of the bottle uppermost as in the bin. The moment the wine has the least appearance of being cloudy, cease pouring the wine. As long as only little pieces of the crust come out which look transparent, and which are retained in the strainer, and the rest of the wine pours clear, there is no fear of continuing to pour. When, however, the wine itself is cloudy, stop instantly, or the whole bottle \n\\ fee spoiled. Recollect that port wine when not bright loses not only in appearance but in flavour. Port wine requires great care in keeping, as it is utterly ruined if exposed to gi'eat cold. Port that has been exposed to severe frost gets cloudy, and never PRINCIPLES PORT. IxXXV properly recovers its character. The best cellars for keeping wines are those that remain at about the same temperature all the year round. A temperature of between 508 and 608 is very good for wuie. In fact, a good cellar strikes cold in Slimmer and hot in winter. One very common cause of wine being spoiled is bad corks, and I have often wondered at it. The difference between good and indifferent coi'ks is so slight, that spoiling wiiie from corkage reminds one of the old saying, of " spoiling a ship for the sake of a ha-porth of tar." In choosing corks for bottling wine, the best plan is to take a quantity up in both hands, and smell them : should there be a peculiar musty smell, the corks are bad, and will utterly spoil a delicate wine. Port for ordinary every-day consumption is, as we have said, best from the wood. Sometimes, however, a cask of port is ordered in, and after some has been drawn off the rest is bottled. Now very much depends upon the way in which wine is bottled. In the first place, the wine must be -perfectly bright in the cask ; secondly, the bottles must be not only clean, but quite dry inside ; thirdly, the wine must be well corked, the corks must fit perfectly tight, and should properly be moistened in a little of the wine that is being bottled, and then the cork hammered down with a wooden mallet. It is by some supposed that the crust on port-wine bottles is the sediment of the wine, which has been put into the bottle rather cloudy. The wine is always bottled bright, but after bottling the wine will turn cloudy, especially in spring and autumn, of its own accord ; a crust then settles and adheres to the bottle, and the wine gradually matures and improves, if it is kept at an equal temperature all the year round. Port wine, however, that has to undergo the variations of temperature that occur in this climate will never mature at all. It is quite possible that the fact of the barbarous custom of building most modern small houses vnthout any wine cellars worthy of the name will do much to decrease the consumption of port wine throughout the country. In selecting port wine of course as tastes differ the purchaser must judge to a certain extent for himself. In selecting from samples, I would, however, warn you against being prejudiced by price, and would therefore recommend you invariably to act as follows .- Should your wine merchant send you samples, let these same samples be marked by letters or numbers, and let the price of them be sealed up in a separate letter. Then taste and discuss the samples aloud with a friend, and open the letter and see how far your palate agrees with those of others afterwards. This is the only way to approach wine really unprejudiced, and in speaking by-and-by of Australian wine I shall again revert to this point for bear iii mind that it is equally foolish to imagme wine must be good because it costs 10s. a bottle alas ! what stuff some hotel keepers have the conscience to ask this price for ! as it would be to condemn a wine as rubbish simply because it is only 30s. a dozen. Good port is one of the most wholesome and nourishing wines that can be taken of course being a strong wine it must be taken in moderation. We next come to claret that light, nourishing, and wholesome wine that is now so largely consumed in this country, and which can now be obtained really good at so small a price. Really good sound claret can be obtained at 16s. a dozen, and if the wine is impoi"ted in wood and bottled on the premises, at a far smaller cost. One gi-eat advantage claret possesses over most other wines is that it is easy of digestion, not fattening ; containing as it does but little sugar, and consequently Ixxxvi cassell's dictionary op cookery. admirably adapted to persons who lead sedentary lives. In France, claret corresponds to oin- beer, poor men being able to obtain a tumblerful for a penny. Notwithstanding, however, its cheapness, the French generally mix water with it. Indeed, the French are the most thrifty nation in the whole world, and this economy on their part, coupled with industry, is the secret of their enormous wealth, jjrobably far greater than our own. Claret, like all other light wines, is best kept in bottles. Of course claret is originally kept in wood, but not for long. Claret, like poi"t, varies very much with the vintage or year, some years being remarkably good, while others are comparative failures. One of the finest vintages ever known in France was that of 1848. Well-bottled and well-authenticated clarets, either Chateau Margaux, or Chateau Lafitte of 1818, will now fetch fancy prices indeed, not very long ago tliere was a sale of the Lafitte at the chateau in which some of the 1848 wine fetclied 100 francs a bottle, or ?4 English money. There is perhaps no wine in the woi'ld that varies so much as claret ; and the comparison between a bottle of good Lafitte and a bottle of vin ordinaire only shows what care and cultivation of the gi'ape will eftect. The three first-class clarets are undoubtedly Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafitte, and Chateau Latour. These wines are generally very expensive any good years fetching about 84s. a dozen when almost new wines. Indeed, the Chateau Margaux and Lafitte of 1870 is nearly ?5 a dozen. Now and then, when the year has been bad, these wines, even genuine, can be obtained very cheap. For instance. Chateau Lafitte for 1872 can be got for about 54s. to 60s.. a dozen, but then it is quite a difierent class of wine to say 1874 or 1870, both of which are famous years. Chateau La Ptose and Chateau Leoville are also good wines, though not equal to those we have mentioned. Good Chateau La Eose, however, will vie with an}wine in respect to bouquet, possessing as it does that delicate scent corresponding to fresh-blown roses, which indeed gives it its name. In selecting claret great attention should be paid to the bouquet of the wine indeed many judges of wine would be able to select by the smell alone, without tasting. In choosing claret, however, especially the cheaper kinds, purchasers should be on their guard against being deceived by the bouquet. Very often claret is, we Avill not say adulterated, but mixed with a small quantity of Burgundy, the latteibeing added to give it a bouquet. Thus a very inferior and poor claret is passed off as something superior. Experience alone will enable the taster to decide what is Burgundied claret and what is pure. The Burgundy generally used to mix with claret is Beaune, which is a splendid wine possessing a very marked bouquet. Those familiar with the flavour of Beaune will be better able to distinguish claret that has had Beaune added to it. In choosing claret very much depends, not merely on the particular name or brand, but on the year, and also on the time, and by whom it was bottled. Of course, out of the thousands of hogsheads of claret that ai'e imported it would be folly to expect that all would be perfectly pure vintage wines. Some persons prefer a full-bodied claret, and some a thin light wine this is, of course, a matter of taste, but in selecting thin clarets it is essential that they should be perfectly free from acidity. An acid claret is never good. It has been stated lately that an injurious colouring matter has been used to improve the appearance of clarets : I am, however, disposed to think that these statements are exaggerations. At any rate, there is never any difficulty in obtaining a pure wholesome claret from any wine merchant. Some few years ago, at the time when the new commercial treaty with France PRINCIPLES CLARET. enabled claret to be sold at its present price in this country, it was fondly imagined by some that claret would gradually supersede the use of beer in this country. Indeed, a great statesman publicly remarked that he looked forward to the time when " the British workman would call for his glass of claret instead of his pint of beer." That time, however, has not yet arrived, and never will so long as the claret sold at ordinary public-houses remains what it is at present. Why this is the case, I cannot say, but the fact remains, and may be tested any day. Let any one go to an ordinary public-house not a good hotel and ask for a glass of claret, and the probability is that they will be served with some quite undrinkable compound. That claret will ever supersede beer with English workmen is of course a visionary idea, but many men would undoubtedly drink claret in preference to beer, especially in hot summer weather, were it to be got on draught cheap, and it is to be regretted that it cannot be more easily obtained. In hot weather, too often the common beer sold quenches the thirst only momentarily, but soon gives rise to a craving for more. Claret, especially when mixed with water, is practically uniaitoxicating, and is the best drink of any to allay thirst. Biirgundy is a stronger and richer wine than claret, and has the I'eputation of being the most blood-making wine there is. As a rule, ordinary Burgundy is a trifle dearer than claret. However, an excellent and pure wine may be obtained for 18s. a dozen. It is not, however, so easy of digestion as claret. Those who can take Burgundy, and require nour'ishment, will find Burgundy a far cheaper wine than claret : Bvirgundy, like claret, varies immensely in quality and price. The best Burgundies are Clos Vougeot and Chambertin, and these wines generally fetch from 72s. to 84s. a dozen. Burgundy, like claret, is best in bottle, and should never be kept long in the wood. Good Beaune can be obtained considerably cheaper than Clos Vougeot or Chambei-tin, and is one of the best kinds of Burgundy that can be chosen for every-day drinking. Bui-gundy will occasionally throw a crust like port. Indeed, in bottling and keeping Burgundy almost as much care is requisite as if it were port, as Bvirgundy suffers from change of temperature far more than claret, and some kinds, like port, are apt to cloud even after being bottled in the spring and autumn of the year in symjiathy with the vine the best, and in fact only, means of prevention for what may be termed this second fermentation being equal temperature. On the suljject of hock and Moselle little need be said. Good hock is always bottled in the district in which the wine is made. A fairly sound hock can bo obtained now at 24s. a dozen. Hocks, like Burgundy and claret, vary immensely in price, good Cabinet Johanisburg fetching at times as fabulous a price as famous vintages of Lafitte claret. Moselle resembles hock somewhat, only it has a slight Muscatel flavour : as a rule. Moselle is slightly dearer than hock that is, in the cheaper sorts. In selecting both hock and Moselle the three chief points to be l)orne in mind are freedom from acidity, brightness, and bouquet. Cheap hock and cheap Moselle are both apt to be somewhat cloudy, and as an almost universal rule with regard to wine it may be laid down that cloudy wine is always of inferior flavour. We next come to what many regard as the highest of all wines, i.e., Champagne. Cei*tainly in this coiintry at any rate Champagne is regarded by many as the very height of luxury. There are many who look upon Champagne as a wine only to be used on great occasions, such as wedding breakfasts or the birthday of the heir, &:c. Of late years, however. Champagne has been drank far more generally than it was Ixxxviii cassell's dictionary of cookery. a few years ago ; indeed, iii everything we see advances nowadays in tke direction of luxury and extravagance. At what exact price good Champagne can be bought it is veiy difficult to say. The cheaper kinds vary unmensely, some years being far better than others. Of the cheaper kinds, however, we shall have more to say when we come to consider the substitutes for first-class wines. I would, however, roughly state the minimum j)rice at which any Champagne that is the pure juice of the grape can be bought to be from 42s. to 48s. a dozen. A large quantity of wine is sold in this country under the ]iame of Champagne, much of which indeed comes from the Champagne district that really is Chainj agne only in name. Whether this is made by using up the refuse of the grapes from which good Champagne is made, or using imripe grapes, rhubarb, gooseberries, or apples, I cannot say positively, but that the majority of cheap Champagne is unfit to drink at all there can be no shadow of a doubt. Considering the price any one has to pay for a bottle of Champagne at Epernay itself, it seems on the face of it absurd for persons to advertise Champagne in this country at 26s. a dozen. Were you, say in Paris or Berlin, to be offered a quart bottle of Bass's bitter ale for 4d., you would natui-ally feel that there was something wrong somewhere. As a rule, of course, the general principle holds good, that it is far better to give either good wine or none at all. This general principle, however, holds especially true with regard to Champagne, and I would specially appeal to those who are going to give Champagne with a little dinner-party about to come off". Ask your conscience as to what is your real motive. Do you wish to please your guests 1 or do you wish to show off"'? i.e., is your motive in giving Champagne simjjly that of vying with or perhaps surpassing your neighbours ? If the former is your motive, and you ca.a afford it, lay in some Champagne of a really good brand, 66s. to 72s. a dozen; have it cool, i.e., nearly freezing, a degree or two above freezing-point ; and whatever you do, don't ]Hit ice in the wine if the Chamjjagne is really good and it ought to be at the price I have named it is a barbarous custom. Next, let your guests have enough. I should say a fair allowance is a bottle between two persons. Do not, however, open one bottle, and then ask if anybody will have any more. If you do, every one will say, " No, thank you." On the other hand, if you open a bottle first and take it round, e\ery single one will have a second glass, and a good many a third. Indeed, we fear, some would continue till they pronounced truly rural as "tural lural." If you cannot afford to give good Champagne and still wish to give your guests a treat, lay in a stock of Bass's strong Burton ale, A 1. I think it fetches nearly Is. 6d. a bottle. Let this be in good condition, and let the bottle stand upright in a moderate temperature for a week before it is opened. The ale is rather high coloured, but when perfectly bright and sparkling, with a I'ich creamy froth on the top, a glass of it is worth all the cheap Champagne in the world put together. Indeed, there is as much difference between this ale and ordinary draught beer as there is between Chateau Lafitte and vin ordinaire. There are so many diflferent brands of Champagne that it would be almost impossible to enumerate and criticise them all. I have before mentioned the Duke of Montebello's Champagne, which is a somewhat neglected wine, seeing that the carte hlanche both of the maximum sec and ordinary sec is quite equal to any of the highest-class brands, and can be obtained at a cheaper price at present. If called upon to say which Champagne is entitled to take first prize, I should say Heidsieck's Monopole. Pommery and Gi-eno, or, rather, Pommery et tils, as I think the firm is PRINCIPLES SPARKLING WINES. Ixxxix now calletl, also ranks very higli. I would also mention Jules Munims, Ruinart pere et fils, Roederer, Giesler, Perrier Jouet, Wachter, Moet and Cliandon, Piper, Veuve Clicquot, &c. The last of these is a very fine wine of excellent bouquet, but not altogether adapted to the English palate, as it is a somewhat sweet wine. However, during the last few years a new kind has been imported called Veuve Clicquot (sec). This is a magnificent wine well worth a trial. Of all Champagnes, perhaps Moet's is best known, and this wine seems to be universally chosen by ordinary publicans as the one wine they keep. It is a good sound wine, but as a rule inferior in quality to most of the brands we have mentioned. , It had once a very great name, and the probable reason why publicans keep it and it only, is, that the class of people they as a rule serve, have heard of Moet's Champagne and of no other. This fact is a practical answer to the question, "What's in a name 1 " We have now run through the general wines drunk in this country, viz.. Sherry, Port, Claret, Burgundy, Hock, Moselle, and Champagne. There is one wine, however, once most popular, but that of late years seems to have gone out of fashion, and that is Madeira. There seems, however, a strong probability of this wine coming in again. The vines in Madeii-a, which so completely failed some few years ago, have very much recovered. Good old East India Madeira, such as is now rarely to be obtained, save at a public dinner of some City company, will bear comparison with almost any wine in the world. The new Madeira now imported is, for its pxice, really a far cheaper wine than sherry, the principal drawback to it being it is somewhat sweet. However, in a few years' time there seems every probability of Madeira recovering its lost position, and those who possess good cellars might certainly make worse speculations than that of laying down some of the new Madeira, which they can get at about 48s. a dozen. There is good sound Madeira to be got at a far cheaper rate. The objection of sweetness is fatal to a large class of wines, and as the public taste just now runs upon dry wines, it is a bad time to attempt to introduce any wine save those that possess this quality. The consumption, for instance, of Sparkling Hock, Sparkling Moselle, and Sparkling Burgundy is less in proportion than that of former years, owing to the difficulty of obtaining these wines dry. Sparkling Hock has too often a tendency to acidity. Sparkling Moselle is a deliciously-scented wine, but is often sweet. It is what used to be called a ladies' wine, and I should imagine children would prefer Sparkling Moselle to ordinary Champagne. At least I am judging of my own feelings and tastes as a child for in the present day it seems to me that so-called children acquire tastes for dry wines and lobster salads before they leave off knickerbockers. Sparkling Burgundy, when not too sweet, is a magnificent wine, and as its price is below that of the first brands of Champagne, it is somewhat strange that it is not more generally drunk. With i-egard to the order in which wine should be drunk at dinner we have already alluded. If dinner is preceded by those expensive luxuries, oysters, nothing can compare with a glass of Chablis. After soup, a glass of sherry ; if the soup be turtle, a glass of Madeira. After fish, either a dry sheiTy, or should the fish be rich, such as stewed eels, a glass of old East India sherry. Hock, after light entrees; and claret or Burgundy after richer entrees. Champagne not too early in the dinner if diy, and not till late if at all sweet. This seems the fashion in the present day, CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. and in long and elaborate dinners is perhaps best. Of course when wine is drunk freely during dinner, it cannot be drunk freely after dinner. Again, port wine after dinner when Champagne is drunk with dinner is a mixture which but few persons can stand. Port is a heavy wine, and after Champagne is very apt to disagree. On the other hand, the old-fashioned plan, especially at bachelors' dinner-parties, will be found best. A good substantial dinner, say a little thin soup, a cut off the joint, and a grouse. With dinner a glass or two of dry sherry, a glass of bitter ale, and a good bottle of port wine, and a chat afterwards. Finish up, if you like, with a bottle of Chateau Margaux and a single glass of sherry. To my mind, the latter dinner is preferable to the former, where a series of elaborate entrees are served with a variety of wines not always of the best quality. ? One very agreeable form of drinking cheap hock, claret, &c., in summer time is in the shape of " cup." There are various ways of making claret cup, but I will give one of the simplest : -Take a few lumps of sugar, about six or eight, according to the size, and let a few drops of boiling water be poured on them to assist in dissolving them. Take a bottle of claret, and add in addition to the sugar two slices of a hard lemon, a glass of sherry, a table-spoonful of bi andy, a small piece of cucumber-peel, and a table-spoonful of noyeau or maraschino. A little balm and borage is an improvement to claret cup, but then there is generally considerable difficulty in obtaining them. Another capital claret cup is made by substituting an orange cut in slices for the two slices of lemon. Again, if no noyeau is at hand and noyeau is an expensive liqueui" -add a couple of drops of essence of almonds to the brandy. To every cup, of coui'se, must be added one or two bottles of soda-water, and a large lump of pure ice. If good pure ice cannot be obtained, but only what is called rough ice, do not put any ice in the cup, but surround the cup with chopped ice mixed with salt, and you will very soon reduce its temperature quite as low, and, indeed, lower, than if a large piece of ice had been put in the cup itself I woiild advise persons who use rough ice indiscriminately to melt a tumblerful, and then hold the glass up to the light. The lesson is very practical. Champagne cup is very simply made by adding either a slice or two of lemon or an orange cut in slices to a bottle of champagne as well as a bottle of sodawater, a small liqueur glass of brandy, and a large lump of ice. Of course, just as it would be a terrible waste to use a bottle of Chateau Lafitte or Chateau Margaux claret to make a claret cup, so would it be equally wrong to use a bottle of fii-stclass champagne, such as Pommeiy et fils, or Montebello Carte Blanche for champagne cup. Again, a rather sweet champagne makes a very good " cup," as the ice and soda-water take off from the sweetness very considerably. It will be found, however, for general purposes that some wines that are not strictly speaking champagne nevertheless make excellent "champagne cup." We would call particular attention to a wine named Sparkling Saumur, which is now being sold at a retail price of 24s. a dozen. A bottle of this, and an orange sliced, avoiding the outside slices with too much peel on, as well as the pips, with a bottle or even two bottles of sodawater, and a large lump of ice, make a most refreshing summer drink. Indeed, I know of no kind of cheap champagne, at even 36 s. a dozen, that will make so excellent a cup. Another very excellent champagne that does not come from the Champagne district is CortaUlod. This is made in Switzerland; and a bottle has refreshed many PRINCIPLES AUSTRALIAN WINES. a weary traveller after a long walk in the exquisite scenery of the district where it is made. There are, in my opinion, few wines that approach nearer to the pure juice of the grape than Swiss champagne. I think the retail price in this country is about 36s. a dozen. We now come to consider a class of wines that is- I fear bvit little generally known in this country, and that is Australian wine. Prejudice is a very difficult thing to overcome, and I fear it will be many years before the wines of that rapidlyrising country meet with the reception here that they so thoroughly deserve. The subject, too, of Australian wines should be regarded from a broader view than merely a question of palate. We as a nation each year spend millions and millions of surplus capital for wine is not really one of the necessaries of life on encouraging the manufactures and agriculture of France, Spain, Germany, and Portugal, while, comparatively speaking, but a few thousands only go to increase the wealth of a country inhabited by our own flesh and blood, living under the same laws, and obeying and honouring the same Queen. Strange, too, to say, the Government of the mother country at present fails to recognise the claims Australian wines have they being absolutely shut out even from a chance of holding then- own in open competition, owing to their containing slightly more alcohol than the fixed standard allows consequently the extra duty that must necessarily be paid takes away all chance of competition with the lighter Fi-ench claret. Tliere are an astonishing number of persons of real wealth who in the present day buy nothing but the poor thin claret that can be bought at 12s. a dozen. I have no hesitation in saying that the majority of Australian wines are infinitely superior to the cheaj) claret that we are unfortunately sometimes out of politeness compelled to drink. Again, it must be remembered that the cidtivation of the Aone in Australia is not matured like it is in France. If we contrast light claret with Chateau Margaux we at once see how much depends upon care in cultivation and also in selection of the grape. The time will probably come when the wine trade of Australia will be one of the greatest means of increasing the wealth of that countiy. We will now run hastily through a few of the principal kinds of wines that that country produces. There ai e samples that correspond to Hock, Sherry, Burgundy, Claret, and Madeii'a. We will first take the kind that resembles hock. This i? called Piesling ; it is a thin light wine, sold in hock bottles, and is an exceedingly pleasant drink in summer, and is particularly suitable with boiled fish, or after light entrees, such as vol-au-vents. Highercombe is another wine resembling hock, or rather Haut Barsac or Sauterne. Highercombe is a strong-scented wine, and would probably not be liked by those who ai-e partial to an exceedingly dry sherry. On the other hand, when the taste for this wine has been acquired, it is generally very strongly fancied. Some of this wine mixed with a bottle of soda-water will be found a most refreshing drink. Another Australian wine very much resembling hock is Gouais ; this wine is something between hock and Sauterne, and, as it can be bought for 24s. a dozen, is well worth a trial. The next class of wines to which we would refer is the white Australian wines that resemble sherry. First we will take Fairfield (amber). This wine very much resembles Cape Sherry, and is certainly inferior to ordinary good sherry ; it also has a slight resemblance to the home-made wine one occasionally tastes at farmhouses that is made from rhubarb. Tliis wine is, however, very wholesome, and probably after a time would be very palatable when the taste for it is once acquired. A very superior wine, however, is met with in VerdeUho : this is made from vines resembling those in Madeu-a, and CASSELLS DICTIONARY OK COOKERY. the wine, which can be bought for about 26s. a dozen, has a decidedly Madeira flavour, and is the best specimen of Australian white wine of the class corresponding to sherry and Madeira that we have met with. Shiraz is another wine resembling sherry, and costs about 24s. a dozen. Perhaps the most marked of the Australian wines, and the one that proves best how likely these wines are eventually to become better appreciated, is dry Muscat of Alexandria. This wine has the most beautiful bouquet that can be imagined, and its flavour resembles the fii-st crush in. the mouth of three or fovu- fine ripe muscatel grapes those large white oval ones covered with a light bloom, and attached to a clean thick stalk yet, notwithstanding this exquisite bouquet and flavour, the wine is dry. Unfortunately, samples differ ; the lighter the colom% however, the better the wine. This dry Muscat of Alexandria can be bought for about 30s. a dozen, or even cheaper, and, when the specimens are good, is well worth double the money. We would strongly advise connoisseurs and epicures to make a trial. A very delicious cup, superior to Moselle cup, can be made from this wine, by mixing it with soda-water, sugar, a few slices of lemon, and a lump of ice. This makes a cheap and very refreshing drink in summer. We next come to the Australian red wines, which, as a rule, will be found very superior to the white. The finest Australian red wine that I have ever tasted is called Carbenet. This fine wine has a most beautiful bouquet, resembling good Chateau Margaux claret. It resembles Burgundy in flavour, with jDerhaps a very slight port flavour added. Or it may be compared to a very dry Rousillon, This wine is very soft, and this, coupled with its rich-scented bouquet, entitles it to rank high among the Australian wines. Indeed, it is far superior to the general run of Burgundies and clarets that can be bought at the same price, which is about 36s. a dozen. Fairfield (ruby) is another red wine, somewhat resembling dry poi*t. The bouquet of this wine is very inferior to Carbenet, and it has a rather dead taste, in which can be detected a slight flavour of raisins. Perhaps the next best wine to Carbenet is Mataro ; this is also similar to a dry port or Burgundy; it has a good bouquet, and is well worth the price at which it is generally sold. Chaselas is a red wine, but is somewhat poor and acid. A better wine is Hermitage, which somewljat resembles the Hei*mitage made on the banks of the Rhone, and is probably named after it. A very peculiar Australian wine is made called Conatto; this is a rich liqueur, mth a slightly medicinal flavovir in it ; its taste reminds one of rum shrub and curagoa. Again, it is sometimes like Constantia, and is probably made from the same kind of grapes that are used for Constantia. Red Albury is a scented wine resembling somewhat English home-made raisin wine, only it is better. It is a capital wine for children, and would suit those who like a sweet port. These are the chief wines of Australia, which, in our opinion, are destined in a few years' time to become far better known than they are at present ; and Englishmen on patriotic grounds should at any rate give Australian wines a trial, if their order does not extend beyond a single bottle. We have now run through the principal wines drunk in this coimtry, and have taken exceptional notice of Australian wine, which is but little known, owing to the fact of its being the only wine worthy of the name that is produced in the British dominions. Hungarian wine, Italian wine, Swiss wine, are all worth a trial, especially the former. We ought not, however, to forget to mention our national beverage Beer ! Pirst, I do not wish to touch upon the point of making home-brewed beer in I PRINCIPLES BEER. fact, good beer can now be obtained so cheap in almost all parts of the country, that ale is now very rarely brewed at home. First, I woidd call attention to the importance of always having beer in cask ; by so doing purity is generally ensured, and the bad custom of sending servants, especially women servants, to the publichouse is avoided. Good, sound, excellent ale can always be got at threepence a quart ; an eighteen-gallon cask costing 18s., and, indeed, very good beer can be bought in cask still cheaper. Now, the beer sold in, I fear, too many public-houses, at the rate of threepence a quart, is adulterated, and often has the efiect of increasing rather than allaying thirst. Were the general public to know the secret of the cheap public-house beer that has been doctored with not always such harmless ingredients as treacle and sugar, they would probably make gi-eater efforts to obtain their beer direct from the brewery itself. The working ])Oor are necessarily obliged to drink beer, and it is very much to be regretted that they so rarely have their beer in cask. The fact is, they have not sufficiently acquired habits of self-control, and too often a cask in the house proves a temptation too strong to be resisted. On this subject, I recollect an occurrence some time ago that illustrates the difficulty to which I have alluded. A poor woman was exclaiming what a monstrous shame it would be to close all the public-houses on Sunday for the whole day, saying that the poor would have to go without any beer with their Sunday's dinner, which, as a rule, was the only really comfortable meal they got. I asked what difficulty thei-e would be in getting in a gallon jar of ale on Saturday night, which, if well-corked down, would keep well till the following day 1 her reply being *' Keep, sir ! Lor' bless you, my old man would never go to bed on Saturday night till he had finished it!" The argument was perfectly sound; and some men must necessarily be treated like children. Indeed, it is as cruel to leave an opened bottle of gin in some persons' way, who are as a rule perfectly honest, as it would be to leave a child three years old alone in a room with a pot of jam. One of the most important points to be remembered in the management of beer is to ensure its being bright. Beer should always be kept in a cool place, though in winter care should be taken that it is not exposed to too severe a frost. A cask of beer should always be ordered in at least a week befoi-e it is wanted, in order to give the beer time to settle. Beer is often allowed to get flat and dead through the carelessness of servants, who forget to put in the vent-peg ; conseqiiently a tap requiring no vent-peg is to be preferred. When a cask requires tilting, a very little common sense will often prevent the whole of the beer left in the cask from becoming cloudy. First, it will be found advisable to have a beer-stand that will tilt by simply turning a handle. However, when bricks or lumps of wood are used for the purpose, bear in mind to first choose your time : say you have drawn enough beer for supper, tilt the cask then, so that you have the benefit of the night's settling. Too often, from carelessness and procrastination, servants will draw ofi" the beer till the last drop runs level, and will then tilt the cask while they draw a jug full, letting the cask drop again, thereby clouding the whole of the remainder. Whenever you have room for two casks in your cellar, side by side, always act as follows. Have two casks in together, and directly one runs out tap the other, and on the same day order in a fresh cask. By making a fixed rule of this description you will always ensure your ale being bright. With regard to bottled ale this same quality of brightness is even more important than ale on draught. The difierence not merely in appearance but in taste between a bottle of Bass's ale that sparkles like cham CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. pagne when held up against the light, and one that is thick and cloudy, is patent to every one. When kept for any length of time, beer should be laid on its side, but to ensure the beer being bright it only requires being kept upright for a short time before it is opened, in a moderate temperature. If bottled ale is kept too warm it is too frothy, and by no means invariably bright. On the other hand, beer exposed to frost is sure to be thick. Bottled beer consequently in summer-time should not be placed in an ice-chest, except for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour before it is opened to cool it, but not freeze it. When, therefore, you have bottled beer in quantities, always stand six or eight bottles upright, and as these are used i-eplace them by others. Good beer will generally get bright in bottle if stood upright for a week, though a longer period should be allowed if the beer is only just brought in. In pouring out beer always have three glasses ready together, so that you can continue to pour without tilting back the bottle, as when this latter is done too often it will be found that the first glass is the only one that is bright. With regard to spirits, but little care is required in keeping them, as they are quite unaffected by variations of temperature, the greatest amount of cold failing to influence them. The only advice I would give you is regard them as medicines rather than for eveiyday consumption, and i-ecollect the remark of Adam, in "As You Like It," who accotinted for his vigour as follows : " Though I look old, yet I am strong and lust)-, For in my youth I never did apply Hot and rebellious liquors in my blood." COOKERY AS A BRANCH OF EDUCATION". Before bringing these pages to a close, there is one subject remaining that demands our greatest attention, and that is this : How far is it possible to impart even an elementary knowledge of the principles of cookery to the poor and imeducated classes 1 There is probably no country in the world that has any pretensions to civilisation in which there is so profound an ignorance of even the rudiments of cookery as in our own. Indeed, the difference in the mode of life between a French family and an English one, in which say the goodwife in the former is allowed thirty francs and the latter thirty shillings a- week for housekeeping purposes is something astounding. In the former there is comfort and even luxury, and, in addition, money is regularly saved ; whereas, in the latter, the week which commences with a hot dinner on Sunday usually terminates in the plainest kind of food, such as bread and dripping, and that too often obtained ori credit. Again, amongst the English poor it will be observed that there is scarcely any variety of food whatever. The hot dinner on Sunday is almost invariably the same. A bladebone of beef and a heap of baked potatoes cooked at that real poor man's friend the baker's oven : the usual charge for baking being twoj ence on Sundays and three-halfpence on week days. Week after week the fare is the same baked meat and baked potatoes : the one change coming with Christmas, and, like it, but once a year, when " the goose " takes the place of the meat, the huge heap of sage and onions being placed in a saucer underneath the goose to catch the fat. Again, in sending a rice pudding to the baker's, the baker's man is frequently obliged to take out some of the rice, as otherwise the pudding would be so close as to be barely eatable, the rice having no room to swell. Sometimes a batter pudding is sent with the dish so full of batter that it would be certain to overflow when baked unless some were removed. PRINCIPLES COOKERY AS A BRANCH OP EDUCATION. XGV Perhaps the gi-eatest difficulty to be contended with is the rooted and unreasonable prejudice to be met with in some of the poor. They despise soup and fish, unless the latter be a bloater with their tea. Great changes have, however, taken place lately in regard to education, which is now compulsory, and the young girl who a few years back was the mother's chief help in hovisehold duties, is now, at any rate for a certain number of days, compelled to attend a school. In all these schools needlework forms part of the regular routine of school duty, but not cooking. It should, however, be borne in mind that it is quite as important for the future wives of the poorer classes to be able to cook their husbands' and children's food as to make or mend their clothes. Now, hithei'to in almost every poor family in the kingdom, the eldest girl has been kept at home to assist her mother, and what little knowledge she possesses of cooking is thus handed down by tradition. Now, however, these home lessons are necessarily limited to Saturday and Sxmday. What a wonderful efiect, howevei-, it would have on the future generation were each child i.e., each girl properly instructed by some competent teacher in the elements of domestic economy ! Unfortunately, at present it will be found that girls who have shown ability at school, and who are often made pupU teachers gii'ls who can write a hand nearly like a lady, and play a little on the piano, and who are fond of reading serial tales in their leisure, too often rather despise household work ; and often it will be found in a family where there is more than one gii-1 that one sister will cook and scrub, whde the other who prides herself somewhat on her " gentility," as those sort of people call it looks out for a business that is light and fanciful, such as millinery. Suppose, however, the girls get married in their own station of life, which would make the best wife of these two sisters % We trust the School Board will in time realise the fact that it is at any rate as impoi-tant for a girl to know how to make an Ii'ish stew as to be capable of playing an Irish jig. It is only first-class cooks who realise the first principles of cookery, viz., cleanliness and economy, and it is on these points that the poor chiefly break down ; indeed, we have already called attention to the want of cleanliness on the part of cooks, that takes place not so much from indolence as ignorance. How often do we have an omelet perfectly white, or rather yellowish- white, like we have them abroad % Do you know the reason of failure ? if not, go downstairs and learn. Take the frying-pan in your left hand, and a clean cloth in your right ; hold the frying-pan over the fire for a few seconds till it is hot, and then wipe it with your cloth, and look at the cloth. Among the poor, however, the fat is allowed to get cold in the frying-pan, and the frying-pan is hung up, or rather put by, with the fat in it ready for next time ; and, indeed, the same thing is often done in houses where the mistress does not exercise proper and necessary supervision over her servants. Unfortunately our English kitchen utensils are, as a rule, so shaped that perfect cleanliness, such as is met with in France, is barely possible. The English enamelled stewjian is, however, quite equal to the tinned copper utensils of France for ordinary purposes, and in these vessels perfect cleanliness is, comparatively speaking, easy. But we shall refer to the shape of vessels at more length when we come to consider kitchen utensils, but would here say one word to housekeepers on jugs. Is it reasonable on your part to continue buying milk-jugs shaped bulb-like, with narrow necks, into which the hand cannot be inserted, and yet to express surprise that your milk is sometimes sour ] I am perfectly aware that jug-bmshes exist, but it is almost impossible to get servants to use them. With regard to economy, we have already explained we do not mean living CASSKLL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. jilainly, or even clieaply, but using up all the material we have. There is no want of economy in tlie strictest sense of the word in giving broken victuals to the poor, provided we know they eat them. Want of economy is exemplified in giviiig a half, picked sirloin of beef-bone to the dog, in throwing the end in the pig-tub, or in leaving the ends of mutton chops and the bones half picked on the plate. Again, a fruitful source of waste, which is in reality a synonymous term for want of economy, is allowing, thi-ough carelessness, ignorance, or want of forethought, food of any description to get bad. For instance, forgetting in hot weather to warm up soup when it has been left, but is not required for the next day's consumption; or in leaving in sultry weather a joint of meat all night in a hot place, instead of preserving it by placing it in a cool larder or ice-chest. Again, milk can often be preserved from turning sour for one night by the simple plan of boiling it, and j ouring it into a clean jug. These and a hundred other ?simple methods by which food can be preserved, and thereby added to the wealth of the country, are principles of education that ought to form part of all elementaiy lessons now taught in schools. There is perhaps nothing that would so effect the future prosperity and greatness of our country than universally inculcating in the minds of the young throughout the length and breadth of the land the importance of economy of the necessaries of life. Our present teachers of the young have high responsibilities. It is not so much that a great multitude follow them as that a great multitude are driven unto them. Whatever differences may arise as to creed or no creed, surely all will unite in agreeing with the great Teacher that it is our duty to gather up the fragments that remain, that nothing be lost. A. G. Paynk * ?. r 7m f S*_A*% wm J x-iS . -t-t, -*J l ' 1 ? ?-' ?''?? +? BLANC -MANGE FRUIT JELLY EPERGNE CHRISTMAS PUDDING JELLY ll'J TWO Cf LOURS CASSELL'S Dictionary of Cookery. Aberdeen Sandwiches. Take two ounces of cold chicken and one ounce of cold ham or tongue. Cut them into small pieces and put them into a stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of good sauce and a table-spoonful of curry paste. Simmer gently for a few minutes, stirring all the time, then turn the mixture into a ?basin to cool. Cut some slices of stale bread about the eighth of an inch in thickness, stamp them in rounds about the size of a penny," and iry them in boiling oil till they are lightly browned. Place them on some blotting-paper to drain off the oil, and spread the mixture thickly on one of the rounds, placing another on the top, until all are used. Put them into a quick oven for a few minutes ; arrange them prettily on a dish, and serve hot. The remains of fish and game may be used in a sinoilar manner. Time to bake, five minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Five or six should be allowed for each person. Aberfran Cakes. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, -vvith half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, adding slowly half a pound of fine flour. Poll out thin, and cut in circles about the size of a teacup ; impress with a shell or other ornament, and bake quickly for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Abernethy Biscuits, Rub one ounce of butter into one pound of the best flour, adding a dessert-spoonful of sugar and half an ounce of carawaj- seeds. Mix all together ??dth two eggs, and, if necessary, a little milk. Poll the batter out, knead it into small round cakes, making holes with a fork to allow the steam to escape, and bake in a m.oderate oven. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for eight biscuits. Acha. Take four capsicums and half a large Spanish onion, - vith as much salt and lemon- juice as may be required to suit the palate, and pound all together thoroughly in a mortar. Acha for Fish. Thoroughly boil a small piece of salt fish, cut an onion and a few capsicums into very small pieces, and add a little vinegar : pound all well togetiber, and make into a puree. Acid Ice for Puddings and Cakes. Strain the juice of a large lemon, add to it three ounces of sifted sugar, and the whites of 1 j four eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pile this over the pudding after it is cooked, and retuiai it to the oven for a few minutes to stiffen. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pudding for four or five jjersons. Acidulated Alkali. Blend thoroughly two ounces of carbonate of soda, two ounces of j tartaric acid, and a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Flavour with essence of ? lemon. Keep the mixture in a bottle, well ; corked, and, when required, stir ft tea-spoonful I briskly into a tumbler three parts full of water, i and drink during effervescence. Probable cost, I a halfpenny per glass. Acidulated Alkali (another way). Grate the rind of two lemons upon four ounces of loaf sugar, pound it, and mix it thoroughly with two ounces of bicarbonate of soda and two ounces of tartaric acid. Bottle it, cork it closely, and heap in a dry place. A small tea-spoonful stirred briskly into half a tumblerful of water will make a pleasant draught, and it should be diunk during effervescence. Time to preimre, half an hoiir. Probable cost for this quantity, 6d. Acidulated Drops. Clarify some sugar as follows : to every two pounds of sugar allow one pint of water and the white of one egg ; put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until the former is thoroughly dissolved ; add the white of the egg, and boil, skimming constantly until the syrup looks quite clear. Remove it from the fire, strain it, and retm-n it to the saucepan. Mix with it tartaric acid or lemon-juice, according to taste, and let all boil together until the syrup crackles when put into cold water. Have ready a welloiled dish, and drop the sugar as regiilarly and quickly as possible into it. If there is any appearance of the syrup boiling over, two or three drops of oil, or a little cold water, may be put in. Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Aeidxilated Drops (another way). Boil a pound and a haK of sugar with a pint of water and three tea-spoonfuls of tartaric acid until it is brittle ; then drop it from the point of a knife upon an oiled slab or dish. In order to ascertain when the sugar is sufficiently boQed, dip a stirring stick into the syrup, and drop some of it into cold water ; when it stiffens and snaps ACI (2) ALB immediately it is sufficiently done; but great care must loe taken that the fire is not too strong, and that the sugar does not boil over or bum. If there is any danger of this, a small piece of butter may be thrown in. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost for this quantity, lOd. Acidulated. Lemonade. To three pints of boilinp; wrter add four ounces of fresh lemon-juice, haix an ounce of thin lemon-peel freshly cut, and i'our ounces of finely-powdered loaf sugar. Tien cold, strain through a jellybag. If not wanted immediately, it must be bottled and carefully corked. Acidulated Pudding. Take the thin rind of thi-ee lemons and two Seville oranges, with a quarter of a pound of sugar : place them in a bowl with a pint of boiling water, and let them remain about an hour and a half; then remove the rinds, and add the juice of the lemons. Put thi-ee or four slices of spongecake into a glass dish, and strain the liquid over them ; let them soak till they have absorbed the s Tup, then pour over them a good custard, and strew a little pink sugar over the top. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Acorn Coffee. In Germany "acorn coffee" is used; and greatly Uked, as a substitute for ordinary colfce, and is considered to be very strengthening for consumi tive people and delicate children. The acorns are gathered in autumn when they are ripe, shelled, and, after being cut into pieces of the size of coffeeberries, they are thoroughly dried in front of the fire, or in a cool oven. They are then roasted like ordinar ' coftee, until they become a cinnamon-brown colour. Immediately after roasting, the acorns are ground or pounded in a mortar, to prevent their becoming tough. "Whilst the coffee is being ground or pounded, a very little butter is added, and the coffee is then placed in au -tight bottles. For children : prepare in the same way as ordinary coffee, using a quarter of an ounce to a pint of water, adding milk and sugar to taste. Young children should take it with two or three parts of milk. For adults: half an ounce of the coffee may be used to a pint of water. Acorn coffee and ordinary coffee are frequently mixed, and the decoction is found very palatable. In their raw state, acorns are known to be powerful!}astringent, but they lose this quahty in the process of roasting. In some respects acom coffee is preferable' to coffee proper, having none of the drying properti- -s ctt-:buted to the latter. Adelaide Pudding. Put a pint of ?water and the thinly-peeled rind and juice of a lemon into a saucepan. Brir.g it slowly to a boil ; then take it off the fire and stir into it, while hot, half a pound of b-.itter and a cupful of sugar; mix - vith it, very gradually and smoothly, half a poxmd of flour; let it cool; add six well-beaten eggs and a tea-spoonful of baldng-powder. Half fill some buttered cups, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for one dozen cups. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Adelaide Sandwiches. Cut up cold cliickcn and ham in small squares, in the proportion of two-thirds of chicken to one-third of ham. Next place two large table-spoonfuls of sauce and one of curry paste in a stewpan, and when they boil add the claicken and ham, mixing all well together. Prepare thin dices of stale bread, cut in small ciiclcs, by frying them in clarified butter. Spread the prepared chicken and ham slightly between two slices of the bread. Upon the top of each sandwich place a baU, about the size of a walnut, and composed of grated Parmesan cheese and butter in equal parts, kneaded into a paste. Place the sand-ndches on a baking-cloth, bake for five minutes in a brisk oven, dish up on a napkin, and serve as a second- course savoury dish. Admiral's Sauce. Make a pint of good melted butter, and put into it one tea-spoonful of chopped capers, three or four eschalots, chopped, four pounded anchovies, and a little thin lemon-rind. Let all simmer gently; add pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, and serve in a tiu-een. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Agnew Pudding. Pare and core eight russets, and boil them to a pulp with the rind of half a lemon. Beat up the yolks of thi-ee eggs, and add to them tliree ounces of melted butter ; sweeten to taste, and beat all together. Line a pudding-dish with puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake until it becomes a light bro\sTi colour. Time to bake, thirty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for ;four persons. Albany Cakes. Lightly beat six eggs, and stir them into a quart of milk ; add a teaspoonful each of bicarbonate of soda and salt, dissolved in a little hot water. Stir in sufficient fine flour to mako a thick batter. Butter small tins the size o1 " tea-saucei', and half fill them with the mixture. Bake them in a quick oven. This makes very nice cakes, which are much used for breakfast in America. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Albemarle Pudding. Take a quarter of a pound of sweet and three or four bitter almonds ; blanch and pound them, being carefiil not to let them oil. Beat four eggs and add to them their weight in sifted sugar ; put them on the fire to heat, but on no account allow them to boil ; let them get cold, and then stir in the almond paste. Beat altogether to a froth, and while in this state put the mixture into a welloiled tin, and bake immediately. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for f oxir or five persons. Probable cost. Is. Albert Cake or Biscuits. T .v; the yc .ks of twelve eggs and the whites Ci. i;wo, and beat them up with ten ounces of pounded sugar and eight ounces of finely - chopped almonds, for twenty minutes. Whisk the remaining whites of the eggs, and mix with them six ounces of flour, two ounces of finelyshred candied orange-peel, a tea-spoonful of cinnamon powder, half a tea-spoonful of ground cloves, and a little grated lemon-rind. Slix aU thoroughly together, and pour the ALB ( 3 ) ALE batter into a convenient sized mould, and bake in an oven with a moderate beat for about an liour. When aono, and sufficiently cold, cut CAKE MOULD. into thin slices ready for serving. Albert biscuits may be also baked in small tins or moulds, which should be buttered and floured. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Albert Pudding. Beat half a pound of butter quite thin, then gradually mix with it five well-beaten eggs, half a pound of flour, and si.x ounces of loaf sugar on which the rind of a lemon has been grated ; add half a pound of stoned raisins, and place the entir-e mixture in a mould wliich has been well buttered and lined ALBERT PUDDING. with slices and stars made of citron, peel, and figs. Tie it up closely, and steam or boil it for at least three hours. Serve it with good melted butter, flavoured with lemon and brandy. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of brandy. Albert Pudding (another way). Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, and stir into it the yolks of three eggs. Add gradually a quarter of a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of sultana raisins, and last of all, the whites of the eggs, well whisked. Pour into a buttered mould, cover -with an oiled paper and a cloth, and steam it. Serve with wine sauce. Time to steam, three hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for foTO- persons. Albert's (Prince) Pudding. Lay the thin rind of a lemon over half a pound of crumbled Savoy cake, and pour over them haK a pint of boiling milk ; add a good pinch of salt, tjhe yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, together with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Poiu" the whole, when well mixed, into a buttered mould, and steam it for nearly an hour. A little jam served with this pudding is an improvement. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Alderman's Pudding. lour three pints of boiling milk over six taolc-spoonf uls of finely-grated bread-crimibs, and soak for half an hour. Shred finely half a pound of finn beef suet ; mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of stoned ra-isins and another oi cui-rants ; add a little sugar and grated nutmeg and the rind of haK a lemon, choppea finely. Mix these ingredients together with five eggs well beaten. Line the edges of a shallow pie-dish with good crust, place the pudding in it, and bake. It is also very nice boiled. Tune to bake or boil, forty minutes. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 2s. Ale-Berry (Scotch Brown Caudle). Mix two large spoonfuls of oatmeal groats in a little water, and gradually add to it half a pint of boihng beer or porter ; pour the mixtm-e into a saucepan, and boil it ; grate a little whole ginger into it, and any seasoning which may be preferred ; sweeten it to taste. Time, ten minutes to boil. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 6d. Ale Cup. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast; lay on it a thin piece of the rind, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg or powdered allspice, and a sprig of balm. Pour over these one glass of brandy, two of sherry, and three pints of mild ale. Do not allow the balm to remain many minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 2s. Ale, Draught (to keep in good condition). Keep the ale in a cool, dry, well- ventilated cellar, with a temperature of from fifty to sixty degrees. If allowed to fall below fifty degrees the appearance of the beer may be spoilt; if it rises above sixty or sixty-five degrees it may tiim sour. Place the cask firmly and securely on its stand, and leave it undisturbed for the first twenty-four hours, as if drawn too soon the beer may never brighten at all. Leave the vent-peg loose for twelve hours after the ale is placed on its stand, and then if it has ceased to efl ervesce, but not unless, drive it in tightly. If the ale is not to be used immediately loosen the vent for three or four minutes each day. With this exception the vent may be left untouched, as if too much air is let into the barrel the ale will become flat. When it is necessary to tilt the barrel, raise it steadily at the back end and fasten it securely, so that it need not afterwards be disturbed. It may then be drawn off, and remain good until the very last. As soon as a cask is empty cork it up at once, or it will "ecome foul. Ale Flip. Put into ii saucepan three pints of ale, a table-spoonful of sugar, a b.ade of mace, a clove, and a small piece of butter, and bring the liquid to a boil. Beat the white cf one egg and the yolks of two thoroughly, mixing with them a table-spoonful of cold ale. Mix all together, and then pour the whole rapidly from one large jug to another from a good height, for some minutes, to froth it thoroughly, but do ALE (4) ALM not allow it to get cool. Probable cost, Is. 4(1. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ale or Porter Jelly. Prepare calf'sfeet jelly in the ordinary way, but instead of using wine take the same proportion of porter or ale. Though this is sometimes recommended in illness, for ordinaiy purposes wine is much to be preferred in the making of calf's-feet jelly. Ale Posset. Boil a pint of new milk and pour it over a slice of toasted bread. Stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Mix these with a pint of hot ale, and boil for a few minutes. When the scum rises it is sufficiently ready. Time, five minutes to boil. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four- persons. Ale, To Mull. Put half a pint of ale, a clove, a little whole ginger, a piece of butter the size of a small marble, and a tea-spoonful of sugar, into a saucepan, and bring it to boiUng point. Beat two eggs \-ith a table-spoonful of cold ale, and pour the boiling ale into them, and then into a large jug. Pass the whole from one jug into another for some minutes, and at a good height. Eeturn it to the saucepan and heat it again, but do not allow it to boil. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Ale, with Cheese. Crumble about a quarter of a pound of Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, and put it into a saucepan with a small tea-spoonful of sugar, another of mustard, and enough ale to cover it. Let it remain on the fire imtil thoroughh melted, stirring all the time, and then add the yolk of an egg. Serve it oft a very hot di.sh, and stick all over it little sippets of toasted bread, or pieces of pulled bread. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Allemand Sauce. Put into a saucepan one pint of white stock, with, a little salt, six mushi-ooms, a thin strip of lemon-peel, a little parsley, three onions, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Let it boil, then di-aw it to the side of the fire, and allow it to simmer slowly for half an hour or more. Thicken it -vx-ith a little flour, let it boil for a few minutes, and strain. Add the beaten yolks of three eggs, and replace it on the fire. Stir it constantly, and make it thoroughly hot; but it must not boil up again, or the sauce will be spoiled. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Allemand Sauce (another way). Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter; when melted, stir in briskly a dessert- spoonful of flour and half a pint of white stock, or failing that, water. Add a little lemon-peel, salt and pepper to taste, half a tea-spoonful of sugar, an onion, a little nutmeg, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Let all simmer by the side of the fire for a little while, then strain. Mix with the sauce half a cupful of milk, and the yolk of one egg ; put it on the fire once more, stirring briskly all the time, and when nearly boiling, it is ready to serve. Time, fortj- minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of sauce. Allspice, Essence of. Pour two di-achms of oil of pimento very gradually into thi-ee ounces of spirits of wine, and let it stand I for a few minutes. Put it into a bottle and I cork it closely. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Five I or six drops will flavour a pint. Allspice, Tincture of. Put two ounces of powdered allspice into a bottle with one pint of brandy. Let it soak for a fortnight, shaking; ? it up every three days. Pour it into anothei 1 bottle, leaving the sediment, and cork it closely. I Half a tea-spoonful will flavour a pint. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 4d. I ! Almack's Preserve. Take two dozen plums, one dozen apples, and one dozen pears : split the plums and take the stones out, pare j and core the apples and pears, and place all the I fruit in alternate layers in a deep jar. Place the jar in the oven, in a shallow dish containing boiling water. A\Tien the fruit is well mixed, put a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit,, I and pour the whole into a preserving-pan. Stiiconstantly, and boil for forty minutes or moi-e, or until the mixture thickens. Pour it out, and cut into slices ready for use. Time, four I to six hours. Probable cost, 3s. Seasonable j from August to October. j Almond Cake, Plain. Blanch and pound in a mortar three ounces of sweet j almonds and seven or eight Tjitter almonds. Rub the rind of a lemon upon four ounces of loaf sugar, and pound this with the almonds. Add the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Work in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, and, lastly, I the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid frothPut into a well-buttered moul(;l, and bake in a good oven. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Almond Cake, Rich. Blanch and pound in a mortar very thoroughly eight ounces of sweet and one oimce of bitter almonds. Add six table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and eight eggs well beaten. Dry before the fire six tablespoonfuls of fine flour, and work this in with the rest. The rind of a lemon finely-grated will be an improvement. A quaiier of a pound of perfectly sweet butter beaten to a cream must now be put in, a little at a time ; and great care should be taken to keep on beatinglightly during the whole process of making the cake, or it will be heavy. Put the mi-xture intO' a well-buttered mould, allowing room for the cake to rise, and bake it in a quick oven, but do not allow it to biu-n. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Almond Cakes (or Macaroons). Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet abiionds with one pound oi sifted sugar. Add the whites of six eggs thoroughly whisked, two ounces of ground rice, and a table- spoonful of brandy. Beat all well together, and drop the mixture in small quantities on wafer-paper, leaving a little distance between each. Bake in a moderate oven. It is best to bake one little cake first, and if it is at all heavy to add a little more ALM ( 5 ) ALM ?white of egg. Place a strip of blanched almond in the middle of each cake, and do not let them bake too brown. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Almond Candy (or Hardbake). BoU one pound of sugar and half a pint of water until it becomes brittle when dropped in cold water ; then add a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched and split, the juice of half a lemon, and one ounce of butter. Boil until the candy hardens at once in the water. Pour it out on a well-oiled dish. AVTien cold, it may be taken off the plate and kept for use in a tin box. Time, half au hour. Probable cost, 7d. Almond Cheesecakes. Blanch and pound foui' ounces of sweet and five or six bitter almonds with a few drops of water ; add a quarter of a pound of sugar rubbed with lemon-rind, a spoonful of cream, a small piece of butter, and the whites of two eggs thoroug-hly TARTLET-TINS. whisked. Mix, and fill small tartlet-tins, lined with puff paste, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Almond Chocolate Drops. Put a metal mortar in a hot oven till it is well heated, throw into it a quarter of a pound of cake chocolate, broken into small pieces ; pound it to a paste, then mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar. Blanch, slice, and dry in a cool oven; two ounces of sweet almonds ; roll each slice smoothly in a little of the chocolate paste, and put them upon sheets of writingpaper till they are cold. Time to prepare, about one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a pound of flrops. Almond Creams.- Blanch and poimd five ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds to a paste; put to this loaf sugar to taste, rubbed with lemon-rind, and pounded. Rub smoothly two table-spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, or, if it can be obtained, use a pint and a half of cream; add the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Put the whole, when weU mixed, into a saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir constantly until it thickens ; but on no account allow it to boil. The whites of the eggs may be whisked, and a little placed on the top of each glass. Time, about ten minutes \ to boil the cream. Probable cost, with milk. Is. 3d. Sufficient for a dozen custard-glasses. Almond Cream Ice. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of rose-water and a little loaf sugar; add gradually a quart of cream, and boil gently for a few minutes. Let it cool slowly, and place it in the ice-pail. Serve with spongecakes. Time to freeze, about half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., with cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Almond Croquantes. Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet abnonds, with half a pound of sugar rubbed on the rind of half a lemon, and a glass of white wine. Add a quarter of a pound of butter and the yolks of fom- eggs. Mix all into a stiff paste, roll out, cut it into diamonds, stars, &c., and bake these in a quick oven. Dip them for a minute into boiling sugar, and let them drain until cool. Keep them in a di-y place, and they will be useful to garnish any kind of sweet dish. Time, about half an horn-. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Almond Custard. Place in a saucepan over the fire a pint of new milk or cream, with a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the rind of a lemon, a stick of cinnamon, and four bitter almonds. Let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds, with a little rose-water to prevent oiling. Mix the ingredients well together, and add the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. Stir the custard gently over a moderate fire until it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil ; and pour into glasses. Probable cost, made with milk, 9d. Sufiicient for six or seven glasses. Almond Custard (another way). Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet and five or six bitter almonds, and add a table-spoonful of rose or orange-water to prevent oiUng. Mix graduall}' with this a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, the yolks of six eggs, well beaten, and a little sugar. Stir the custard over the fire gently till it thickens, or it may be baked in cups, if preferred. Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufiicient for nine or ten glasses. Almond Darioles. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it the same weight of flour, a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, four well-whisked eggs, and a httle chopped lemon-peel. Mix all well together, and then add, a drop at a time, a little essence of almond, to suit the taste ; too much of the essence wiU make the dish disagxeeable. Stir over the fire for ten minutes. Line dariole moulds with tartlet paste, fill them three parts with the batter, and bake in a quick oven until the pastry is sufficiently ready. Turn the daiioles out of the moulds, strew sifted sugar over them, and seiwe. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sufficient to fill about haK a dozen dariole moulds. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Almond Diamonds. Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds ; add six ounces of finely-sifted sugar, and mix them to a stiff paste with some white of egg. Strew a little sugar on the board, and roll out the paste to the thickness of a penny-piece, then stamp it into diamonds with a pastry-cutter. Bake in a cool oven, and when cold, brush them over with a little syrup, strew sugar over them, and dry them in the oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for about two dozen diamonds. Almond-Dust, Burnt This is made by pounding any quantity of blanched sweet almonds, which have been thoroughly browned ALM ( 6 ) ALM in a moderate oven. This dust is chiefly used for garnishing cakes and sweet dishes. Almond Fluramery. CoTcr one ounce of isinglass with water : let it stand half an hour, then stir it into a pint and a half of new milk or cream. Place aU in a saucepan with one ounce of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds which have been previously blanched and pounded, and eight or nine lumps of sugar in the lump for fear of dust on wliich a httle lemon has been rubbed. Stir gently over a fire until the isinglass is thoroughly dissolved. Strain it carefully. Pour it into a mould ?which has been wetted with cold water, and let it stand until quite firm. The isinglass will take about fifteen minutes to dissolve. Probable cost, a made with milk, Is. 8d. Sufficient for a quart mould, which will be enough for six or eight persons. Almond. Fritters. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet ahnonds with a little water : mix them gradually in one pint of new milk or cream with two table-spoonfuls of ground rice and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two. Sweeten according to taste. Melt two ounces of butter in the frj-ing-pan, and, when hot, pour in the mixture. Stir it until it stiffens ; it is sufficiently cooked when it is goldcn-bro-wTi. Cover it with sifted sugar. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, if made with milk, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Almond Gauffres. lix a table-spoonful of fine flour with a little sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped small, and two eggs. When thoroughly mixed, add to them foiu- ounces of blanched and finely - sliced sweet almonds. Make a baking-tin quite hot, and oil it well. Spread the mixture on it verj' thin, and bake it in a moderate oven until slightly coloured. Take it out and stamp it in rounds, and fold each over a reed in the shape of a small horn. [ This must be done while they are hot, and great care must be taken not to break them. FUl them with a little bright-coloured jam, and put them in a hot place to dry. Probable cost. Is. Almond Gingerbread. Melt half a pound of treacle with two table-spoonfuls of butter, and add to them two table-spoonfuls of flour and two of ground rice, a small cupful of sugar, a little chopped lemon and candied j peel. WTien these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, put to them a quarter of a pound of [ almonds blanched and pounded. Beat well together for a few minutes, then bake in email cakes on a weU-oUed tin. The oven must not be hot. Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost, is. 6d. per pound Almond Icing for Cakes. Blanch one i pound of sweet almonds and eight or nine j bitter almonds. Pound them iu a mortar, four i or five at a time, pouring in, eveiy two or three j minutes, a few dropij of water to prevent them oiUng. Add to them one pound of sifted sugar, ! and the whites of four eggs, and whisk to a I froth. WTien all are well mixed together, lay , the icing on the cake, ah-eady baked, a little more than half an iach thick, as smoothly and j evenly as possible. Put it in a cool oven to dry. The sugar icing goes over this. Time to dry, nearly an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Almond Jelly. Put one ounce and a half of best isinglass, a quart of water, a little sugar, and a quarter of a pound of blanched and poimded almonds into a saucepan. Let them boil half an hour. Strain the Liquid carefully tkrough a jelly-bag, flavour it with a little brandy, and pour it into a wet mould. If calf'sfoot stock is used, the ahnonds should be boiled with a little sugar and water separately for some time, to extract the flavour, then the Uquid mixed with the stock, and all boiled up together again, with a tea-spoonful of isinglass to a quart of stock. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s., without the brandy. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. Almond Jumbles. Work two ounces of butter into half a pound of flour, then add two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a little lemon-juice, and two oixnces of sweet and four or five bitter ahnonds, blanched and beaten to a paste with the white of an egg. IMix thoroughly, roll it out rather thin, cut into small round cakes, place them on well-oiled tins, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Almond M6ringues. Whisk the whites of two eggs to the firmest possible froth, mix with them a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar and a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched and powdered. Have ready some pieces of writing-paper fastened upon a board, to prevent the meringues being too much coloured at the bottom, and di'op them upon it in the form of a half egg. This must be done as quickly as possible, or the shape will be spoilt. Place them in a moderate oven, and, when they are firm, take them out, scoop out a little of the inside, place them on clean paper, upside down, and return them to the oven, and when they are crisp through, they are done. When ready to serve, place jam or cream inside, and join them together with the white of an egg. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a dozen meringues. Almond Milk. Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet and six bitter almonds to a paste, adding a few drops of orangeflower-water every now and then, to prevent oiUng. Add a quart of cold water, and let it stand two or three hours, then strain and bottle for use. A table-spoonful of brandy may be added if Uked. " .Vhen wanted, a Uttle water must be mixed with the milk, and sweetened, and it wiU be found to be a veiy refreshing beverage for feverish patients. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a quart of milk. Almond NoUfat. Blanch and chop roughly six ounces of sweet and five bitter almonds, and put them in a cool oven tiU they are shghtly browned. Put three ounces of sifted sugar into a saucepan, and when it is dissolved throw in the almonds, and mix all together for a few minutes. The ahnonds must be hot when they are put into the saucepan. Spread ALM (7) ALM the paste about a quarter of an inch thick, quickly and evenly on a well-oiled slab, cut it into fingers, strew some small white comfits over these, and arrange them in a pile. Or, the nougat may be spread on a well-oiled piedish, and when it has taken the form, turned upon a dish. Tho nougat should be made and moulded as quickly as possible, or it will harden. Probable cost, 9d., for this quantity. Sufficient for a small dish. Almond Omelet. Beat four eggs with a little milk for a minute or more. Have ready as many sweet almonds as may be wished, blanched and pounded. Put into an omeletpan a piece of butter the size of a large egg; let it be quite hot, but not bro-mied ; pour in the mixture, stirring it gently until it begins to set. Then aiTange it nicely, lay the pounded almonds on the top, and double the omelet over, to cover the almonds completely. Keep shaking the pan, and add a little butter if it seems likely to stick. When it is a nice golden-brown, place it on a hot dish, and cover -svith a little sifted sugar. Time, five minutes to fry. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two persons. Almond Paste (To Make Quickly). Pound as many almonds as are required, moijteningwith white of egg to prevent oiling, and then roll them -s -ith a rolling-pin until they are smooth. They will be nicer if they have been kept in a warm place. This quickly-made ahnond paste is very useful for garnishing pastry. Almond Pastry. Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces of almonds and a little rose-water. Add to them gradually four ounces of loaf sugar and an equal weight of fine flour. Stii' in the well- whisked whites of two eggs, and roll out on a pastry-board. Stamp out any pretty shapes that may be fancied ; bake in a moderate oven, and keep in a diy place in a tin box to ornament sweet dishes of any description. Time to bake, eight or nine minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Almond Pudding, Boiled. Blanch and pound with a little water three ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds; add a pint of new milk, sugar to taste, a little nutmeg, a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly, a table-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and lastly, the whites of two eggs whisked to a froth. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and boil quickly for three-quarters of an hour. AVhen done, let it stand for a few minutes before turning out. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four persons. Almond Pudding, Jewish. Put four ounces of sweet almonds, and three bitter ones, into a saucepan of cold water. Heat it gradually, and when too hot to bear the fingers put the almonds into a basin, slip off the skins, and throw them at once into cold water. Dry them well, and pound them in a mortar until they form a smooth paste ; drop a tea-spoonful of cold water over them two or three times to prevent them oiling. ilix with them four ounces of powdered loaf sugar, and add two table-spoonfuls of rose water, together with the -, olks of four, and the whites of three, eggs well beaten. Stir briskly for ten minutes, pour into a well-oiled mould, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the pudding out of the dish before serving, and pour round it a thick syrup, flavoured with the rind and juice of a lemon, and coloured with cochineal. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Almond Pudding, Plain. Soak three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs in milk. Add four ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, a piece of butter the size of an egg melted in a pint of new milk, sugar to taste, a tea-spoonful of grated Icmon-rind, a scrape of nutmeg, and three eggs well beaten. A glass of sheriy or raisin wine may be added. Place in a pie-dish lined with paste, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Almond Pudding, Rich. Blanch and beat to a paste a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and five or six bitter ones, with a little water to prevent oiling ; add a little sugar rubbed on lemon-rind, a piece of butter the size of an egg, melted with a glass of wann cream, five eggs well beaten, a little nutmeg, and a glass of shei'ry. Put the mixture into a pie-dish and bake in a moderate oven, or put it into buttered cups, and tui-n out. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to bake, half an honr. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Almond Pudding (another way). Line a pie-dish with puff paste. Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet almonds with a little oi-ange-water. Add a quarter of a pound of melted butter, three table-spoonfuls of cream, the rind and juice of a lemon, four eggs well beaten, and a little brandy. Mix all together, put it in the dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with brandy sauce. Time to bake, half an hour-. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Almond Puflfs. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a little water. Add two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, two ounces of clarified butter, two table-spoonfuls of flour. When these are thoroughly mixed, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, and a cupful of cream. Well oil about a dozen PATTY-PANS. patty-pans, and half fill them wicn the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Serve one for each person. Almond Sauce for Paddings. Boil gently a quarter of a pint of water and half that quantity of new milk. Pour this slowly, when boiUng stirring aU the time upon a ALM (8) ALM dessert-spoonful of arrowroot, mixed with a little water. Add sugar to taste, the beaten yolk of an egg, and twenty drops of the essence of sweet almonds. Serve in a tureen. Do not pour the sauce over the pudding, as every one may not like the flavour. A Uttle brandy may be added. Time, about ten minutes to bod. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a medium-sized jjudding. Almond Sauce (another way). Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a few drops of water. Pour over them, boiling, half a pint of new milk. Mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with a little water and the yolk of one egg. Stir all together briskly, over a moderate fire, until it froths. Serve with any sweet pudding. Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a mediumsized pudding. Almond Soup. Boil gently four pounds of lean veal, or an old fowl, with the scrag end of a neck of mutton, iu sufficient water to cover it, until the meat is thoroughly cooked, and the gravy good. Strain it and put it again upon the fire, with five or six cloves and a little mace. Blanch and pound one pound of sweet almonds and the hard-boiled yolks of four eggs ; beat these weU together, and add them slowly and smoothly to the stock when it is cool. Boil again, stirring constantly ; thicken with a little flour and butter, and just before serving, add a tea-cupful of cream. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, 3s. per quart. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Almond Spice Biscuits. Put two pounds of loaf sugar into a saucepan with sufficient water to dissolve it. Have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with two pounds of sweet almonds blanched and pounded, a whole nutmeg grated, the rind of a lemon finely chopped, a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, and a little sugar. Pour the hot syrup into this mixture, and make it into a stift' paste. Roll it into a long, thick piece, and bake in a quick oven. When sufficiently cooked, cut it into convenient pieces, which should be placed before the fire for a little while to dry. These biscuits should not be exposed to the air. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Almond Sponge- Cake. Take half a pound of loaf sugar, rub the rind of a lemon on two or three of the lumps, and crush the whole to powder. Then take five eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and beat the latter for some minutes ; then shake in the sugar gradually, and beat together. Let the whites be beaten to a solid froth, and add them to the rest, gently stu-ring in the flour, with about twenty di-ops of the essence of almonds. Fill a well-oiled tin three parts full, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a moderatesized mould. Almond Syrup (or Orgeat) . Blanch and pound three ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds thoroughly, adding a little rose-water to prevent oiling. Add gradually one quart of milk and water, and sugar to taste. Boil and strain it, when it will be ready for use. It is a nice flavouring for sauces, puddings, creams, &c., and also makes a beneficial drink for persons affected with chest - complaints. Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for one quart. Probable cost, 6d. Almond Toffy. Boil a pound of sugar, with half a pint of water, until it is brittle. Throw in one ounce and a half of sweet almonds, blanched and cut into halves, -with two ounces of butter. It is done when it hardens on a little being put into cold water. Pour out on a well-oiled dish. Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for a small dish full. Probable cost, 8d. Almonds, Candied. Blanch some al! monds, and fry them in butter or oil until they are nicely browned. Drain and dry them. Boil half a pint of water with half a pound of sugar, and bring it to the candying point that is, boil until the sugar adheres to the finger and thumb, when a little is taken between them and opened. The finger and thumb must first be dipped in cold water. Pour this upon the almonds boiling hot, and keep on stirring till they are cold. Time, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. Almonds, Coloured. Blanch and chop, not too finely, as many sweet almonds as may be required, dry them thoroughly, pour a little prepared cochineal into the hands and rub them, and keep them in a warm place. Saffron soaked in water will make them yellow, spinach-juice gi-een. Pound the leaves of the spinach, squeeze the juice, and put it into a little jar, which must be placed in boiling water, and then simmered gently for a few minutes. Almonds, Croquettes of. Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet and seven or eight bitter almonds with three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, the white of an egg, and a glass of sherry or raisin wine. Crumble a quarter of a pound of sponge-cake and add it to the mixture, with the frothed whites of three more eggs. Beat it into a solid paste, and mould it into small balls, about the size of a small orange. Dip them first into egg, then bread-crumbs, then sugar ; frj- them a few minutes in boiling butter or oil; drain and serve. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost, Is. Almonds, Sugared. Boil together a syrup made of one pound of sugar and one pint of water. Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, and put them in ; let them boil for some minutes. Take them out and drain them ; let the s Tup boil until thick, then return the almonds, and take them out when coated with sugar, which will be in a minute or two. They should be thoroughly dried, and kept in a warm place. Time to boil, ten minutes. Almonds, To Blanch. Put some almonds with a little cold water upon the fire, and let them remain until the water is hot, but not boiling. Drain them and di-aw the skins off, placing ihem immediately into cold water, to preserve the colour. ALM (0 ) A]\1E Almonds, To Pound. Almonds pound more easily when they ai'c blanched for two or three days before using, and kept in a warm place. They should be tirst slightly chopped, tlien thi-own into a mortar, and beaten until they are qiute smooth, a few drops of any suitable liquid, such as rose-water, orange- water, white of egg, lemon- juice, or cold water, being added constanth' to prevent them oiling. Almond and Bread Pudding. Blanch and pound thi'ee ounces of sweet and si.Y or seven bitter tilmoiids, and allow them to simmer gently in half a pint of milk by the side of the tire for a quarter of an hour, to draw out the flavour. Then i our them into four ounces of moderately stale ciusts of bread. 8tir in a quailer of a pound of beef suet finely shred, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the same of lioui-, the finely-minced rind and the juice of a lemon, and two well-beaten eggs. Beat the mi.vture thoroughly, and pour it into a well-oiled mould ; let it boil without stopping for three hours, and serve with sweet sauce. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Probable cost, lOd. Almond and Orange Ice. Blanch and pound one ounce of sweet almonds with a little orange-tiower-water to prevent them oiling. Put them into a saucepan with one pint of ?cream and the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Stir constantly till the egg thickens, then pomit out, let it cool, put it into the freezing-pot, and work the handle until it is sufficiently frozen. Put half a pound of loaf sugar and a cupful of water into an enamelled saucepan, wdth the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, and the thin rind of an orange. Put it on the fire and bring it to a syrup, then add to it three-quarters of a pint of orange-juice. Slr.dn this and freeze it like the almond cream. Put a piece of cardboard into the mould, dividing it in two. Place the almond ice on one side and the orange ice on the other. Remove the cai-dboard, close the moidd, and let it remain in the ice until wanted. Time, half an hour to freeze. .Sufficient for a quart of ice. Probable cost, 4s. Almond and Potato Pudding. Blanch and pound three ounces of sweet almonds and four or five bitter ones. Put them into half a pint of milk, and allow them to simmer slowly for a quarter of an hour. Mix in smoothly half a pound of cold mealy potatoes, a quarter of a pound of butter, the grated rind and juice of a lemon, a little nutmeg, and three well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture for some minutes with a wooden spoon. Put it into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a quick oven. Turn out carefully, and serve with sifted sugar or almond sauce. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for six person?. Almond and Raisin Pudding. Soak a quarter of a pound of the stale crumb of Thread in half a pint of new milk ; add two table- spoonfuls of finely-shred suet, the same of currants washed and picked, a little sugar, the juice and finely-chopped rind of a lemon, three well-beaten eggs, and a table- spoonful of ale. Well butter a mould or basin. Place raisins in rows round it with four ounces of sweet abnonds blanched and split in altemato rows (the butter will make them stick), and pour the mixture in. Put it into boiling water, and allow it to boil for three houi\s. Turn out and serve with wine sauce. Sufficient for five or six poisons. Probable cost. Is. Alpha Rocks. Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, then stir in three-quarters of a pound of flour, six ounces of loaf sugar, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and sliced, and one egg ; mix thoroughly, then drop it in spoonfuls on a well-oiled tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Lemon or citron -peel and currants can be added if approved. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Alum Whey. Boil in a saucepan half a pint of new milk, and pour into it four- tablespoonfuls of raisin wine. If this does not turn it, add a little more. Let it boil, then put it away from the fire until the cui'd has settled to the bottom. Pom- the whey from the cm-d, and boil it up once more with half a pint of water in which a tea-spoonful of powdered alimi (or more if preferred) and a little sugar have been. dis.solved. Time, thi-ee- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Amber Pudding. Beat half a pound of butter to a cream. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of flour, six table-spoonfids of breadcrmnbs, sugar to taste, the finely-chopped lind of three lemons, a pinch of salt, and throe well-beaten eggs. Beat all well together, fill a buttered mould, and boil three hours. Fiuelyshred suet may be substituted for the butter. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Amber Pudding (another way). Shred finely half a pound of beef suet without skin, and dredge a little flour over it to prevent it adhering. Mix it with a quarter of a pound of flour, four ounces of bread-crumbs, two tablespoonfids of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, three eggs well beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of orange marmalade. Beat all weU together, put the mixture into a buttered mould, and boil for three hours. Serve with wine sauce. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. Gd. Ambrose Pudding. Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, add to it two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of two lemons, a coifee-cupful of new milk, three well-beaten eggs, and twenty drops of essence of almonds. In another bowl, mix two tablespoonfuls of chopped raisins, the same of cm-rants, one ounce each of candied lemon, orange, and citron, thi-ee large apples chopped small, two table-spoonfuls of marmalade, and a pinch of salt. Well butter a mould, plaee in it a layer out of each bowl alternately, until both are emptied, and bake in a quick OA-en. This pudding may be eaten either hot or cold. Time, two hours and a half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. American Breakfast Buns. Take the chill off a quarter of a pint of milk, and mix it AME (10) AME with the same quantity of fresh yoast ; add a quarter of a pound of butter melted, but not hot, sugar to taste, and a couple of eggs well beaten, and then, very gradually, sufficient flour to make a tolerably finn dough. Put it into small tins, well oUing them first ; set them before the fire for about twenty minutes to rise, and bake in a quick oven. Do not make the buns too large. Time to bake, twenty miniites. Sufficient for a dozen buns. Probable cost, 8.1. American Breakfast (or Griddle Cakes). Miisk two eggs, stir them into a quart of lukewarm milk, and add a tea-spoonful of salcratus, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Mix with them sufficient Indian meal to make a stiff batter, and bake them in small round tins which have been oiled or buttered. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Id. each. This vaR make about two dozen cakes. American Biscuits (or Waflaes). Pom" two pints of good milk into separate vessels. In one put a quarter of a poimd of butter, cut up and melted with a gentle warmth, and aUow it to cool. In the other vessel put eight eggs, beaten up lightly; mix these with the milk gradually. To this add, also gradually, a quarter of a pound of flour, then the milk containing the butter. Stir in a large table- spoonful of strong now yeast, cover the pan, and set it near the fire to rise. WTien the batter is quite light, take what in America is called a waffle-iron, in which the batter can be shut in, baked, and turned over. This is greased, some of the batter is pom-ed in, and it is put among the coals of a clear bright fire. The biscuits should be sent to table quite hot, half a dozen on ' a plate, witii a little powdered cinnamon and white sugar. They are called Waffles ; and we have heard American ladies complain sadly of being unable to get these delicious biscuits made in England. Waffle-irons may be obtained at JeFvrish ironmongers. They only require a few minutes to bake, and the above ingredients "wtII make sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 6d. American Oven. This oven is neither so generally known nor so highly appreciated as it deserves to be. In hot weaither, when a large fire which would heat an oven or roast a joint is most objectionable, this little articic. when once its management is understood, may AMERICAN OTE '. bo used to cook meat and puddings, or even pastry, and will be fotmd to do its work perfectly. It is particularly adapted for those preparations which require to be cooked slowly. A little experience is all that is necessarj' in using it. The only directions whicli can be given are that the oven must not be placed close to the fire, but about a foot and a half distant from it ; that the meat should be turned and basted frequently; and that it should be put down in good time, so that it can be cooked slowly. A very small, though clear fire, is all that is necessary. If these hints are attended to, no difficulty need be experienced in using this convenient and economical ajiparatus. Probable cost, 9s. to 12s. American Pancakes. Mix the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, with two tablespoonfuls of water. Put in a pinch of salt, and add gradually six heaped table-spoonfuls of flour; beat the mixture till it is quite smooth, and then add new milk sufficient to make a thin batter. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg Lato an omelet-pan. Let it melt, but not brown. Then pom- in a little of the mixture enough to thinly cover the pan. Let it stiffen, loosening it round the edges, and shaking it to prevent it sticking. Throw it up to turn the pancake, and when it is nicely browned on both sides it is ready. Send to table on one dish, piled one over the other, with pounded cinnamon and sifted sugar over each : cut into quarters, and serve hot. Time, five minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Enough to make six pancakes. American Sandwiches. Get half a pound of cold boiled ham or tongue, chop it fine, and put it into a basin, with a table-spoonful of chopped pickles, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a little pepper. Put about six ounces of butter in a basin, and stir it quickly with a spoon till it fomis a kind of cream ; add the chopped meat and seasoning, and mix all thoroughly. Cut some bread into thin slices, and some very tiiui slices of veal, fowl, or game ; spread a slice o? AME (11) ANC liie tread with the above mixture, then a slice of the meat ; lay oh another slice of bread, and so on, till the quantity reqixired -is prepared. If out into small shapes, these sandwdches prove very acceptable for breakfast or for evening parties. The above quantities will make about two dozen oixiinary-sked sandvv'iches. Probable cost, 2s. American Velvet Breakfast Cakes. Put a pint of new milk on the fire ; let it simmer a few minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Stir into it a jHeco of butter the size of a walnut. Add a little salt, and three spoonfuls of good yciist, with three well-beaten eggs. IVIix with those sufficient fiour to make a soft 4+agh, which vill bo about three pounds. Knead all well together, aad put the mixture in a \\+arm place in a basin with a cloth over it, for two hours or more. Then make it up into small cakes, lay them quite near each other on a well-oiled tin, and bake in a quick oven. Time, quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. This -vN-ill make about twentyfour cakes, and two are sufficient for each person. American White Cake. Beat half a e-?pf ul of butter to a cream : work in gradually two and a half cupfuls of flour, a cupful of milk, the whites of six eggs, and, last of all, a tea-s]Joonful of cream of tartar, and half a tea-spoG-nful of carbonate of soda. Pour the mixtui-o into a buttered tin, and bake in a quick oven. Directly it is taken out of the oven, brush whisked white of egg over the top, and sift loaf sugar on it. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a quart mould. Anchovies. The best anchovies arc those whicli arc small and plump. The pickle should be red, and the scales white. They are preserved in salt brine, and the bottle which contains them should be kei)t closely covered, as the air soon spoils them. They should be soaked in cold water before being used. Anchovies, Essence of. Clean and remove the bones from one pound of anchovies, beat them into a pulp, and pas.s the soft portion through a sieve, so as to sej arato the flesh from any small bones, &c. Put those parts of the pulp that vill not pass through the sieve into a jxin with the bones, and simmer them, with the liquor in which they have been ]3ickled, a blade of mace, a little caj-ennc pepper, a heaped teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of water, for twenty minutes, strain, and add the soft portion of the anchovies that passed through the sieve. Boil all together at a moderate heat for a few minutes. Then take the vessel from the fire, and add a quarter of a pint of sti-ong vinegar. Essence of ancho\'ies should l)e kept in small bottles, with the corks covered with bladder, and sealed t? render them air-tight. Sufficient to make a quart. Probable cost, 4s. Anchovies, Essence of (another way). Eemove the bones from three ancho es, and beat them into a paste with four green chilies, or a small quantity of cayenne pepper, and two shalots. Then mix them -with a quarter of a pint of walnut ketchup, and hali a pint of muskroom ketchup, and preserve the essence in well-closed bottles. Time, half an hour to prepare. Sufficient for one pint bottle. Probable cost, 2s. Anchovies, Essence of (another way). Beat half a pound of anchovies with the bones into a paste, and put it into a pint of springwater; boil it quickly, till the ancho"vi8S are dissolved, then season it with black or cayenne pepper. If raisin wine be substituted for the water, the essence will be much richer. It should be straiMed through a coarse sieve, and kept closely corked, as the air injm-es it. Essence of anchovies thus made will not be of the bright colour or consistence of that gene- rally sold by oilmen, which is thickened with starch, and coloured with bole Armenia?, or poisonous Venetian red ; but the uncoloured essence is of greatly improved quality and flavour. Time to boil, half an hour. Suffieient for rather more than a pint. Probable cost, Is. 8d., if made with water. Anchovies, Essence of, Mock. Boil a quart of old ale for a quarter of an houj-, let it stand till it is cold; take five Dutch pickled herrings, with their- liquor (removing the heads and roes), poimd or mince the n finely, and put them into the ale, with a stick of horse-radish scraped ; boil the liquid for twenty minutes, then strain it. Hold a clean frying-pan oxev the fire, that it may be quite dry ; put in a quarter of a poimd of flour; keep stirring it with a wooden spoon, till it is the colour of essence of anchovies ; put the liquor to it, and stir it till it boils ; when cold, bottle it. If not of sufficient colour, put a little bole Armenice to it. Probable cost, Is. id. Sufficient to make two pints and a half. Anchovies, Pried. Wash, soak, scale, and dry a dozen anchovies, cut off the heads, open them, and I'cmove the backbone without breaking the fish. This may be easily done, after sufficient soaking. Dip them in a Hght batter, and fry them in boiling oil, or lard, until they are slightly browned. If preferred, they may be soaked for three-quarters of an hour in a little milk, and floured before frjing. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost,. Is. 4d. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Anchovies, Potted. Potted anchovies arc made in the same way as anchovy paste, spices and cayenne being added to the former. The au- should be carefully excluded, or they AvUl soon lose theii- colom-. Anchovies, Simple Method of Serving. Wash the anchovies, and let them soak in water for three or fom- hours before they are - vanted; scale them and ?ipe them dry. Open them, and remove the backbone without dividing the fish. Ai-sange them neatly on a dish, garnish with the white of egg chopped finely, and a little parsley ; cover th'em with oil, and serve. Probable cost. Is., for a haK-piat bottle. Sufficient for five or six persons. Anchovies, To Fillet. Soak the anchoA-ies; cut off the heads and fins, scrape ANC (12) ANC the skin, and split them open with the fingers and thumbs; remove the backbone, and cut each fillet, or side, in two. They may be seasoned with cayenne, and used for sandwiches. Time to 'soak, four hours. Probable cost. Is., for a half-pint bottle. Sufficient for three or four pei'sons. Anchovy and Caper Sauce. Take a piece of butter the size of an egg ; melt it in a saucepan ; stir into it, with a wooden spoon, half its weight in flour; then add a quarter of a pint of water. "Wlien boiling, add two anchovies boned and chopped small, vnih a dessert-spoonfid of bruised capers. _A little lemon -juice is an improvement. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient for a small dish of fish. Probable cost, 6d. Anchovy Butter. Take six pickled anchovies, cut otf their heads, wash and bone them; then pound them with sufficient butter to make a paste, and add a little scalded and chopped parsley. If a pestle and mortar should not be at hand, the anchovies may be made into a paste and mixed with the butter with a broad knife on a piece of board. This butter is very useful to flavour many sauces, especially those that are used for beef steaks. Average cost for a half-pint jar. Is. 8d. Time, half an hour. Anchovy Butter (another way). Take three anchovies, wash, bone, and pound them in- a mortar ; pull the stalks from a bunch of parsley, scald and chop it, and then pass it thi'ough a sieve. Mix these ingi-edicnts with half a pound of butter, and when quite blended make quickly into pats. Garnish with parsley. If prettily moulded it looks well on a suppertable. Average cost. Is. Anchovy Butter Sauce. Add to half a pint of good brown sauce, or since Espagnole, a piece of anchovy butter half the size of an egg, and also some lemon -juice to conceal the salt taste produced by the butter. Mix thoroughly and serve. Anchovy Ketchup. Put half a gallon of mild ale into a saucepan with two dozen pickled anchovies, three blades of mace, one tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, a little whole ginger, six small onions, a couple of cloves, and twenty black peppercorns. Let aU boil up once, then di-aw them from the fire, and allow thean to simmer slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Strain thiough a fine hair sieve, and stir into the strained liquid two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. AMien it is quite cold, bottle it, and cork it seciu-ely. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for twe quart bottles. Anchovy Omelette. Take half a dozen salted anchovies ; soak them in warm water a quarter of an hour to freshen them a little. Cut off the flesh in strips. The fillets of anchovy, bottled in oil, sold at Italian warehouses, answer perfectly. Fry thin slices of bread, cut them into small squares, and on each square lay a little piece of ancho-\y. Beat up, rather more than for an ordinary onelottc, a dozen eggs; season with pepper and s;ilt. With half the quantity make a large, flat, thin omelette, like a pancake. Do not turn it, but lay it on a liot dish. Over its surface distribute the pieces of fried bread and anchovy. With the icmaindtr of the eggs make another omelette like the first. Lay it ovct the other with the underside uppermost. Set it a few minutes before the fire, or in a gentle oven, to make the two surfaces adhere, and serve with any savoury sauce that suits the taste. Time to fry, five minutes for each omelette. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 2s. Anchovy Paste. Take a dozen anchovies, scrape them clean, raise the flesh from the bones, and jjound them most thoroughly in a mortar ; then press thc-m through a tine sieve. Add the same weight of butter melted, but not hot. The less butter used the stronger will be the flavour of the anchovies. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a small jar. Anchovy Powder. Pound seme anchovies in a mortar. Kub them through a hair sieve, and make them into a paste with diied and sifted flour. RoU them into cakes, then toast them before the fire, and rub them to powder. If the flavour is liked, grated lemonrind and cayenne may be added after the cakes are baked. Put the powder in a bottle, cork it closely, and it will keep for years. It is useful for flavouring purposes, and makes a nice relish i when sprinkled over sandwiches or toast. Time to prepare, about an hour. Probable cost. Is. for a half-pint bottle. A dessert-spoonful of powder wiU flavour half a pint of sauce. Anchovy Salad. Wash six anchovies in water, remove the bones and the iusides, and also the heads, fins, and tails. Put them on a dish with two large lettuces cut small, half a dozen young onions, a salt-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a sliced lemon. Pour over them the juice of a lemon mixed with salad-oil, and send to table. Time to prepare, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a small dish. Anchovy Sauce. Take six anchovies, cut off their heads, and wash them well, then let them boil gently in a quarter of a i int of water until they are dissolved. Strain the liquid, and add to it a pnt of melted butter, cayenne and nutmeg to taste, and two tablespoonfuls of port wine. Serve with the fish. The sauce should be poured over boiled fish and round fried fish. Time to boil, half an hour. Sufficient for a medium-sized dish of fish. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. Anchovy Sauce (another way). Cut the heads off foiu- ancho\-ies, bone them, and pound them in a mortar vnih. sufficient butter to make a paste. Have ready a pint of melted butter, I and mix it gradually and smoothly with the paste. Add cayenne pepper to taste, and the juice of half a lemon, and let all boil up for a minute, stirring all the time. Time to boil, five minutes. Sufficient for a medium-sized dish of fish. Probable cost, 8d. Anchovy Sauce (another way). A quick and easy way of making anchovy sauce is to I stir- two or thi'ee spoonfuls of prepared ANC (13 ) APP of iinchovy, which may be bought at any grocer's, into a pint of melted butter. Let the sauce boil, and flavour -with lemon-juice. Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls to a pint. Anchovy Sauce for Beef. Soak four anchovieb in water for half an hour, then remove the bones, and cut the Hesh into small pieces. Dredge some flour thickly over these, and fry them in a little butter over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Pour half a pint of stock broth over them, add salt and pejDper if required, and an inch or two of cucmnber cut into dice. Simmer the sauce gently, and before sending to table stir into it a tea-spoonful of bruised capers. Time to simmer, twenty minutes. Pi'obable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six i ersons. Anchovy Sauce for Salmon. Incor jDorate with a pint of boiling melted butter a couple of tea-spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and add cayenne and lemon- juice to suit the taste. A similar sauce may be made with essence of shrimps ; but true shrimp sauce (containing the meat of the shrimps) is nst usually served with salmon. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls of the essence to a pint of sauce. Anchovy Toast. Wash five or six anchovies, and cirt ofi: their heads and fins. Fillet thein that is, take the backbone out and divide the fish into two, from the shoulder to the tail. Make some well-buttered toast, lay the fish upon it, and add miistard and cayenne to suit the palate ; or make the anchovy into a paste {see Anchovy Paste), and spread it over slices of toast, about half an inch thick. Six anchovies are sufficient for two rounds of toast. Probable cost, 4d. Angelica, Candied. Take the plant in April : boil it in salt and water until it is tender. Eemove and di-ain it well, scrape the outside, and di-y it in a clean cloth. Place it in a sjTup, and allow it to remain there for three or four days, closely covered. The syrup must be made from the same weight of sugar that there is of fruit, allowing half a pint of water to a pound of sugar, and must be boiled twice a daj-, and poured over the fruit until it is nearly all absorbed ; after which it should be put into a pie-dish, and placed near the fire. Time to make, about ten days. Angelica can seldom be bought in the market. Angelica Ratafia is a very rich, fine cordial, made by i:)utting half a pound of the shoots of the above plant into two quarts of brandy, with a pint of water, two pounds of sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinnamon. The angelica must infuse for two months in a close vessel before it is strained and bottled. Probable cost, per pint, 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Annie's (Rich) Cake. Rub one pound of butter and one pound of lard into four j ounds of flour ; add a salt-spoonful of salt, twelve teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two poimds of sugar, one pound of i-aisins, three pounds of cm-rants, half a pound of chopped candied lemon, citron, and orange-peel mixed, a teaspoonful of mixed spices, and eight eggs well beaten. Mix lightly with new milk. Bake in a quick oven. Sufficient for five cakes weighing about two pounds each. Probable cost, Is. each. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Apple, The. The apple is a British fruit, and may be eaten raw, or cooked in various ways. The best for eating are : the Margarets, Blenheim Oranges, Eibstone, Golden and other Pippins, Nonpariel Russets, Pearmains, Kentish Codlins, and Dowtons. As a rule the rough-rinded apples are the li st for eating, while those of smooth exterior are most suitable for preparation. For cooking the most preferable are : the Wellingtons, Colvilles, Rennets, Pearmains, and Russets; while for baking jjurposes the American Pippins occupy a high place. Apple Batter Pudding. Put into a bowl half a pound of flour and a little salt, and stir very gradually into it half a pint of milk. Beat it imtil quite smooth, then add three eggs. I Well butter a pie-dish, and pour about half the batter into it. Place it in a quick oven, and bake it until quite fii-m. Nearly fill the dish with apples, pared, cored, and sliced, and slightly stewed with a little sugar, and lemon-rind, or any other flavouring. Ponr the rest of the batter in, and replace in the oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Sufficient for six I persons. Probable cost. Is. Apple Black Caps. Take a few firm, juicy apples, pare them, and take out the cores without breaking the apples. Fill the hollow of each with some pounded sugar and one or two cloves. Place them in a shallow dish with a little sweet wine, sugar to taste, and a little lemon -rind, a few cloves, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Let them stew slowly in the oven until the apples are soft throughout, but do not let them break, and when they are sufficiently done, heat the tops with a salamander, to make them look black. They may be served hot or cold, and wiU keep some days. Time, about half an hour to bake. One will suffice for each person. A-Pple Butter, American. Fill a preserving-pan with ai)plcs jjceled, quartered, and cored. Add a slight fiavouring of cloves, allspice, and cinnamon. Cover with good cider, and boil slowly, stirring from time to time with a wooden spoon, until the whole becomes a dark brown jam, with only juice sufficient to keep it soft and buttery. Remove it from the fire, and place in well-covered jars, and in a few weeks it will be ready for use. It makes an excellent substitute for butter, and is very wholesome for childi-en. Time to prepare, five or six hours. Probable cost j)er pint, lOd. Apple Cakes. Take two pounds of apples, pare, core, and quarter them. Sl w them gently with one pound of sugar, the juice and finely-chopped rind of a lemon, a tablespoonful of butter, and half a nutmeg grated. Beat these ingredients thoroughly together, and drop them in small rounds upon a sheet of welloiled paper. Place them in a cool oven, and APP ( i M APP bake them until they are firRi, which will take about a quarter of an hour. They should be kept in a tin box. Probable cost, Is. Apple Cake Pudding. Take three pounds of fincly-flavoui-ed baking apples, and boil them to a pulp with the rind of two lemons, a cupful of water, and eight ounces of sugar. Beat them well, and mix with them gradually, six good-sized potatoes, boiled and crushed quite small. Then add three or four wellwhisked eggs, poui- into a buttered mould, and boil qujrkly. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil,?ie hour and a half. Sufficient for six persons, i Probable cost. Is. 2d. Apple Calf's-foot Jelly. Take four poimds -of good cooking apples, core them, and stew them gently, with the thin rind of two l naEs, fl L a quart of water, until they are redS d d a pulp. Then strain the liquid tM-dHk aFjeUy-bag once or twice, until it is quiwclear. AATien cool, place it in a saucepan with three pints of strong calf's-foot stock, the juice of the lemons, sugar to taste, and the 111 If If III MJk JJkiU JELLY MOULD. shells and beaten whites of four eggs. Bring it quickly to a boil, and allow it to sinnner for a quarter of an hoiu-, being careful not to stii' it. Draw it from the fire, and let it stand for another quarter of an hour. Strain it two or three times through a jeUy-bag, until perfectly clear. Pour into moulds, and let it stand until next day. Time to stew the apples, about an hour. Sufficient for two quart moulds. Prohable cost, 2s. Apple Charlotte. Pare, core, and slice three pounds of good cooking apples, and stew them gently to a pulp, with a httle sugar and the thinly-chopped rind of two lemons. Well butter a mould, and place at the bottom and round it thin slices of stale bread dipped in melted butter. Let the pieces of bread overlap each other, or the apple will escape. Lay a thin shce of bread the shape of the mould over the top, cover it with a plate, and place a weight on it, and bake in a quick oven. Turn it out, and sci've hot, with sifted sugar. Time to bake, one hoiir. Probable cost, Is. Sixfficient for a pint mould. Apple Charlotte (another way). Well butter a pie-chsh, then place in it in alternate layers : first bread and butter, without the crust, then apples cored, pared, and sUced, a little sugar, and the juice and thinly-chopped rind of lemon, and repeat until the dish is full. Cover with the peel of the apples, and bake in a brisk oven. Turn out, and serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, one horn-. A mediumsized dishful will servo four persons. Probable cost, 8d. Apple Charlotte (another way). A very good Apple Charlotte is made of fingerbiscuits instead of lieces of bread. The mixture should be poured in hot, and well pressed do%vn, then put into a cool place. It should be eaten cold ; a little whipped cream is an improvement. Time, half an hour to make. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Apple Chartreuse. Boil gently a cupful of the best rice and a little finely-gTated lemon-rind in a quart of milk, until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed in it ; add sugar to taste. Then take eight or ten apples, and core -n-ithout breaking them : put them in a dish with a little raspberry or red currant jam in each hollow, and place the rice between the apples until the dish is full. Brush the whole over with the white of an egg, and sift a little sugar over it. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, one hovu-. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. Apple Cheesecakes. Pare and core half a pound of apples, and stew them with half a pound of sugar, the finely-chopped rind of a lemon, and a tea-cupful of Avater. Melt three ounces of butter ; take five eggs, leave out the whites of two, beat them well, and mix all thoroughly together. Bake in patty-pans lined with puff paste for a quarter of an hour. Allow one cake for each person. Probable cost, Is., without the puif paste. Apple Cheese and Cream. Stew to a thick pulp two pounds of apples, two pounds of sugar, a httle chopped lemon-rind, and one pint of water. Put it into a mould, and when cold, tm-n it out, and poiu- round it a Httle custard made of two cupfuls of new milk, the rind of a lemon, the yolk of an egg, and a teaspoonful of ground rice, mixed together, and boiled for a few minutes. Time to boil, five minutes. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Apple Cream. Peel three pounds of apples, remove the cores, and cut them in thin sUces. Put them into a saucepan with half a pound of crushed sugar, the rind of a lemon finely shred, half an ounce of ground ginger, and four table-spoonfuls of red wine. Let them sinnner until they are soft enough to press through a sieve, then put them in a dish, and allow them to cool. Boil a quart of cream or new milk, with some nutmeg, and add the apples to it, beating all thoroughly together. Time to simmer, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d., if made with milk. SufEeient for eight persons. Apple Cream (another way). Boil six or seven large apples, with a little cinnamon, to a pulp, with sufficient sugar to sweeten them; the quantity of sugar must be regulated by the acidity of the apples. VTien cold, add to them the wcU-whisked whites *of three eggs. Beat aU together until they are nicely frothed ; APP ( 15 ) APP then serve, heaped on a clish. Time to heat, a quarter of an hour. Prohahle cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small side-dish. Apple Creamed Tart. Make an ordinary apple tart, Havoiu-ed and sweetened. When baked, cut out the middle of the top, leaving merely a border all I'ound. Let the apples become quite cold, and then pour a nicely-flavoured custard over it, and strew on the top a little pink sugar. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Apple Custard. Take fom- pounds of finely-liavoiu-ed apjoles, and stew them gently, until tender, a pint and a half of water, one pound of sugar, and a Kttlo cinnamon. Strain the liquid, and stir into it, very gradually, eight well-beaten eggs. Put the niixtiu'e into a saucepan, and stir it until it thickens, ?s\hich will be in about ten minutes. Pour into custard-glasses, and cover with sifted sugar. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for nine or ten glasses. Apple Custard Pudding. Take a dozen finely-flUvoui-ed apjiles, peel, core, and boil them with the rind of tv.'o lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a cupful of water, until they will pass through a sieve. Let them get cold ; then add to them a little butter, and the whites of fom- eggs well whisked. Beat all together until the mixture is smooth and iirm. Tm-n into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven. Sift a little sugar over them. They are nice either hot or cold. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. Apple Custard Pudding (anotler way). Put into a stewpan one dozen apples peeled and cored, the chopped rind of two lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a ciipful of water. Simmer gently until reduced to a pulp ; and place at the bottom of a deep dish, well oiled. Take a pint of new milk, mix with it, gradually, a Httle sugar, the yolks of two ?eggs, and a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot or ground rice. Put them in a saucepan, and let them remain on the fire, stir-ring constantly until the custard begins to thicken. Pour it over the cold apple, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six pereons. Probable cost. Is. Apple Dumplings. Shred as finely as possible half a pound of suet ; mix with it a pinch of salt, one pound of flom-, a small spoonful of baking-powder, and enough Qold water to make it into a stiff paste. Use a fork .in mixing. Roll it out, and line a well-buttGred basin with it. Fill the basin with apples, pared, cored, ancl sliced ; add a little sugar, one or two cloves, and a little water. Cover it with the paste, and pinch it all round. Tie it in a wellfloured cloth, and boil for two hours and a half. As soon as it is tm-ncd out of the basin, cut a little hole in the top, or the steam will make the pastry heavy. Serve with sweet sauce. Sufficient for six persons. ? Probable cost. Is. Apple Dumplings (another way). Take ;as many apples as you wish to make dumplings, allowing one dumpling for each person. Pare them, and scoop the core out without breaking them. FiQ each cavity s-ith a clove, a littlo piece of butter, and as much sug\ar as will till it. Cover each apple separately '+\'ith a little piece of suet paste, tie in a floured cloth, and boil. Before serving, put a little piece of butter and sugar into each dumpling. Looselyknitted cloths are very nice for puddings ; they are most easily washed, and produce a pretty effect. Boil half an hour-. Probable cost, 2d. each dumpling. Apple Dumplings, Baked. For a change, apple dumphugs may be baked instead of boiled. They are made exactly in the same way as the preceding, but instead of being tied in a cloth and boiled, they are placed upon a buttered tin, a d put into a moderate oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. each. Jt Apple Flummery. Pare, core, aiia slice two pounds of apples, and put them into a stewpan with one pound of sugar, the finelychopped rind of a lemon, and sufficient water to cover them. Let them stew gently vmtil quite tender, then di-ain them from "the juice, and beat them to a pulp. Soak an ounce of_ gelatine in a little cold water for twenty minutes. Put it into a saucepan with the apple-juice, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved : add the apples and a cupfid of cream. Stir for a few minutes over the fire, but do not let the mixtiu-e boil. Turn it into a mould that has been soaked in cold water, let it stand until stiff, then tm-n out, and pom- a good custard ?ovej it. Time to stifien, eight or ten hours. Probable cost Is. lOd., exclusive of the custard. Sufficient for six persons. Apple Fool. Take two pounds of apples pared and cored. Put them into a saucepan with a cupful of water, one or two cloves, and sugar to taste. Let them simmer till qiute soft, and beat them well with a wooden spoon. Mix with them, gradually, a pint of new milk, or milk and cream, boiled and allowed to become cold, SAveetened and flavom-ed. Time to simmer the apples, about half an hour. Probable cost, made with nulk, 8d. Sufficient for fom Apple Pool (another way). Prepare the apple in the same way as in the preceding case ; but instead of adding milk to the fruit, mix ?ndth it a good cold custard. Apple Fritters. ilake a smooth, stiff batter of half a pound of flour, a httle salt, one table-spoonful of clarified butter, three wcll-beaten eggs, about a quarter of a pint of mUk, and a table- spoonful of beer: the latter may be omitted. Pare and scoop out the cores of a few large apples ; sHce them in rounds about haH an inch thick ; strew sugar thickly over them, and let them remain for two hom-s. Then tlu'ow them into the batter ; take each piece out separately, and fry it in plenty of hot lard or oil. When they are nicely bro-wned on both sides, lay them on r. piece of blottingpaper to absorb the grease : then heap them up on a hot dish, and serve with sugar. Time, APP (.16 APP eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Apple Fritters, Hich. Take a pint of hot cream, two glasses of port wine, and a cupful of ale; mix well, and when cold, add tile yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, all whisked: a little salt, ginger, and nutmeg are an imjirovement. Let the apples, prepared as in the preceding recipe, soak in wine and sugar for two or three hours before using. Throw them into the batter, drain, and fry them in boiling oil or lard. WTien they are tender, place them on blotting-paper for two or three minutes, and pile them in a pyramid on a hot dish. They should be dry enough to fee eaten with the fingers. Time to fry, eight minutes. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine and ale. Apple Gateau. Boil one pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of water till it makes a rich syrup. Peel, core, and slice very thinly two pounds of Nonpareil, or any other nicely-flavoured apples which will fail easily. Boil them with the rind and juice of a large lemon until stiff. Pour the mixture into a mould, and the following day tm-n it out and serve with custard. Time, about two hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apple Gateau (another way). Prepare the apples as in the last recipe. When reduced to pulp, add half an ounce of gelatine which has been previously soaked for three-quarters of an hour in four table-spoonfuls of water. Stir all over the fire imtil the gelatine is dissolved, pour into a damji mould, and, before serving, stick into the gateau two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and sliced. Serve with a good custard round the dish. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Time, an hour and a half. As the gelatine will help to stifl en the gateau, the apples need not boil so long as in the previous recipe. Apple Ginger, Boil gently together a quarter of a pound of whole ginger bruised, three poimds of sugar, a pint avA a half of water, and the juice of three lemons."' Bring it to the boiling point, then put in three pounds of apples weighed after they have been pared and cored. Simmer them gently, and let them remain until the apples have become clear, but be careful that they are not broken. They must be kept in a covered jar in a dry place, and - dll keep good for some time. Time, three-quarters of an hour, to boil the apples. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Apple Ginger (another way). Imitation OF Preserved Ginger. Take four pounds of apples, weighed after they have been pared and cored, and cut them into quarters : make a syrup of two pounds of sugar boiled in one pint of water, and pour it over the fruit. Let the apples stand in this two days ; then add four pounds of loaf sugar, and the chopped rind and juice of three lemons. Put into a muslin bag two ounces of bruised ginger, and half a teaspoonful of cayenne. Let all simmer until the fi-uit is soft, but not broken, and the juice clear: add a glass of gin. Time to sinuner, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four one-pound jars. Apple Ginger (another way). Pare, core, and slice three pounds of hard apples. Put them into a httle cold water, to preserve the colour, until they arc required. Boil to a syrup three pounds of loaf sugar and a pint and a half of water, with the juice of two lemons and a little of the rind. Throw in the apples ; let them boil until clear, and add, a few minutes before they are removed from the fire, an ounce and a half of concentrated ginger. Keep them in covered jars, in a dry place. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Apple Hedgehog. Take two dozen large apples, pared and cored : boil them to a smooth jam, sweetened and flavoured with essence of ahnonds. Pare one dozen and a half more, scoop out the cores, and boil them in sugar and water until tender. Take them gently out of the saucepan, and fill the hollow in the middle of each with any bright-coloured jam, and arrange them on a dish, in two or three layers, as nearly as possible in the form of a hedgehog. Fill the empty space -with the jam, and make all smooth. Cover the whole with sugar icing, and stick almonds blanched and split thickly over it. Place the dish into a good oven, to make the apples hot and brown the almonds. Time to simmer, about half an hour. Sufficient for eight persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Apple Hedgehog, Iced. Dissolve in a well-lined saucepan eight ounces of good sugar with half a pint of water, and stew in the sjTup until tender a dozen or more goodsized apples, pared and cored. Drain them from the sugar, and pile them on a dish to resemble the form of a hedgehog. Slice eighteen or twenty good boiling apples, keep them over a very slow fire until they are a smooth, dry pulp, then fill in, so as to make an even surface, all the spaces between the apples, as well as the hollows from which the cores were taken, -with it. Spread it evenly all over with the back of a spoon. Make an icing \ath three eggs and three oimces of sifted sugar; whisk it to a solid froth, and lay on a thick coating, which must again be covered -s -ith sifted sugar. Cut half a pound of blanched almonds in the usual spiked form, and fix them thickly over the hedgehog. Bake to give the almonds a little colour, and warm the apples through in a moderately hot oven. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to stew apples. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apple Jam. Pare, core, and slice four pounds of good baking apples : put them in a saucepan with three pounds q? gjf ted sugar, and the grated rind and juice of four Temons. Stew gently, stirring constantly until the jam is firm and smooth. Put it into covered jars, and keep it in a dry jjlace. It is a good plan to lay the apples and other ingredients in layers in a stone jar, and place the jar in the oven in the middle of a tin full of water, which is to be replenished as APP ( 17 ) APP it boils away, until the fruit is tender. Then pour it into a preserving-pan, and Loil for twenty minutes. Time to stew, three or four hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. One pound of apples will make about one pound of jam. Apple Jam (another way). l*arc, core, and slice three pounds of apples. Place them in a preserving-pan with a little cinnamon, two or three cloves, the juice of two lemons, two and a half pounds of sugar, and just enough water to keep them from burning. Stir them continually with a wooden spoon, until they are reduced to pulp. Pour this into jars, and cover closely. It will not keep so well as jam made bj- the preceding recipe, but it is more quickly made. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Allow one pound of fruit for a one-pound jar. Apple Jelly. Simmer se 'cn pounds of apples and se ?en pints of water until the apples are soft. Strain them, but do not squeeze them, t-no or three times until quite clear, and then mix in the juice of two lemons and a pound of loaf sugar to every pint of liquid. Boil until it becomes stiff. If rosy-cheeked apples are used, the jelly will be bright red. The a jples should not be pared, but well rubbed with a cloth. Time, from twenty minutes to half an hour to boil after straining. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Apple Jelly (another way). Pare, core, and slice three pounds of apples." Put them into a stewpan with a tea-cupful of water. WTien reduced to a pulp, put them into a jelly-bag and let them drain all night ; they must not be squeezed. Next morning put the juice into a saucepan, being careful not to put any sediment with it, adding a poimd of sugar to a pint of juice, and a few di-?ps of the essence of Yanilla. BoU it until it will stiffen when cold ; cover the jars as soon as possible. The pulp may be made into jam. Time to boil with the sugar, al+out twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. Apple Juice for Jelly. Peel, core, and weigh four pounds of finely-flavouied cooking a iples : put them into a stewpan with three pints of water, and let them simmer gently Tmtil they are broken. Strain the juice from them, and boil it again, with half a pound of I sugar to each pint of juice. This juice is very nice to use in preserving other fruits. Time to I boil with the sugar, five minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a quart. Apple MaT3ge. Reduce to a pulp a dozen fine apples, and sweeten and flavour according tn taste. AMien quite cold, pour it into a glass dish, and cover it with -5\'hipped cream, which will bo much firmer if made the day before it is wanted. Time to- simmer the apples, forty minutes. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., with a pint of cream. Apple Marmalade. Pare, core, and slice four pounds of apples, and place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them barely. Boil them until quite pulpy, then pass I them through a sieve. Put a pound of sugar j and a little cinnamon to a pint of pulp, and bc?l once more, stu-ring constantly, for half an hour or more. Place the marmalade in jars, and cover them as soon as possible. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six onepound jars. Apple Mincemeat. Stew a pound of beef imtil very tender, mince it as small as possible : add two pounds of apples, one pound of finely-shred suet, two pounds of cm-rants, half a pound of stoned raisins, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar. The apples, raisins, and suet should all be minced separately. Mix these ingredients well together, Muth one nutmeg grated, a little mace, the gravy in which the meat was stewed, a whole lemon chopped, one glass of brandy, and two glasses of port wine. Keep it in covered jars. Time to prepare, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., without the brandy and wine. Sufficient to make six poimds of mincemeat. Apple Mould. Pare, core, and slice two pounds of golden pij iuns. Put them into a saucepan with a pint of water, one pound of sugar, and one ounce of isinglass. Let all boil gently together until the apples are quite soft. Then beat them well, until quite smooth, with a few drops of Vanilla flavouring. Oil a mould, lay the apple smoothly into it, and let it stand in a cold place. Serve with whijjped cream. Time to simmer, half an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. lOd., exclusive of the cream. Apple Pancakes. Make a good stiff batter with four table-spoonfuls of flour, a little sugar, three eggs, half a junt of milk, a little powdered cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Chop six moderate-sized apples very small, mix them with the batter, and fry- the pancakes in the usual way. They will require great care in turning. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five pancakes. Serve one for each person. Apple Pancakes (another way). Make the batter the same as in the preceding recipe. Fry the pancakes, and, when they are browned on both sides, spread a little apple marmalade thinly over the top ; fold them in three, and co -er ?s\ith sifted sugar. Serve on a hot dish. Time to frj-, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. Apple Pasty (or Turn over). Make a short crust with half a pound of flour, two ounces of butter, two ounces of lard, and a little salt. Eub the butter thoroughly into the flour, mix it with very little water, and roll it out thin on the pastry-board. Stamp out - -ith a small cupplate as many rounds as you wish to make pasties. Moisten the inside of the round ; lay stewed api lcs, sweetened and flavom-cd, on one half, and lift the other haH right over it. Press the edges, and bake in a quick oven. A plain and very nice cmst may be made with good beef dripping and a little baking-i owder. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. This will make a dozen pa.sties. Serve one or two for each person. Probable cost. Id. each. APP ( 18 ) APP Apple Pie. Make a good light crust; wet the edge of the pie-dish, and lay a thiu strip aU revmd. Pare, core, and slice the apples, and lay them in the dish A\-ith a little sugar and any flavouring that may be preferred such as powdered ginger, two or three cloves, grated lemon-iind, with the juice of the lemon, a little cinnamon, &c. Lay a crust over the top, and ornament with pastry cut into leaves. If the apples are dry', the parings and cores may be boiled Avith a little sugar and flavoui-ing, and the strained juice added to the fi-uit. Bake the pie in a quick oven. It may be served hot or cold. A little custard or cream is an improvement. Time, thi-ee-quarters of an houi' to bake. Probable ?ost, lOd. for a pie, sufficient for five persons. Apple Plum Pudding. Slued finely half a pound of beef suet ; add to it a pinch of salt, half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, half a pound of apples weighed after being pared, cored, and chopped, two ounces of chopped candied peel, and half a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Mix the di-y ingredients thoroughly, then beat four eggs in a wine-glassful of brandy, stir well together, poui- into a well-oiled mould, or tie up in a well-floured pudding-cloth, and boil four hours. Serve viith. brandy sauce. Time to boil, four hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, -Is. 8d., without the brandy. Apple Pudding, Baked. Pare, quarter, and core three pounds of good bakingapples : put them in a saucepan -svith six ounces of sugar and half a cupful of water, and the rind and juice of a lemon. Boil them gently until they are quite soft. Tui-n them out of the saucepan, and put them aside to cool. Butter the inside of a shallow pie-dish, and line it throughout with good ordinary piecrust. Add to the apple pulp two or three weU-beaten eggs, and put the mixtirre into the ?dish. Make the top smooth, and grate a little nutmeg over it. Bake in a quick oven. This pudding may be served either hot or cold. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Apple Pudding, Baked. Line a baking-dish with puif paste, and cover the bottom with sliced pippins, which should be peeled and cored. Mix together the crumbs of a French roll and a pint of thick cream ; add eight eggs well beaten, three or four- ounces of sugar, nutmeg, and the same weight of candied peel (orange) cut into small pieces. Spread this mixture over the pippins and bake. Serve ?with sifted sugar over the top. Bake in a moderate oven. Time, thi-ee-quarters of an hour- to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Apple Pudding, Baked (another way). Pare, core, and chop small a dozen good cooking aj)ples. Oil a pudding-dish, and cover the bottom and sides half an inch thick with grated bread, small pieces of butter, a squeeze of lemon-juice and a little lemon-rind; then put a layer of apples, sweetened, and repeat in alternate layers until the dish is full. The top layer must be of bread. Pour over the whole a cupful of cold water. Bake in a good oven. It may be used the day after it is made, when it must be heated thoroughly. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Sd. Sufficient for six persons. Apple Pudding, Baked (another way). Fill the dish as in the jjrcceding recipe, but instead of poimng a cupful of cold water over aU, pour three or fom- eggs beaten ?\\'ith a little new milk. Bake iu a quick oven. Sift sugar over the top, and serve with sweet sauce. Time to bake, thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Apple Pudding, Baked (another way). Put a dozen apples into a saucepan with enough water to keep theni from burning, a piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and sugar according to taste. Let them simmer gently until they fall, then beat them we.U. Place them in the middle of a ]Die-dish, and pour round and over them a good thick arrowroot custard. Put into a quick oven, and bake until brown. Time to brown, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or sLx Apple Pudding, Baked, Rich. Line a pie-dish with good short crust. Stew four poimds of apples, and when hot, add a quarter of a pound of butter. Let them stand aside to cool, then add a cupful of cream, four wellbeaten eggs, sugar to taste, grated lemon-rind, and grated nutmeg. Stir all well together, then place the mixture in the pie-dish, and bake in a good oven. Serve with Devonshire cream, or custard. Time, half an hour to bake. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 3s. Apple Pudding, Boiled. Make a light batter with two eggs, foui" heaped table-spoonfuls of floui-, a little salt, and a large breakfastcupful of milk. Beat it well, then stir into it a few apples pared, cored, and sliced. Put all together into a weU-oiled moiild, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for an hour and a half. Serve with sweet sauce. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Apple Pudding, Nottingham. Pare half a dozen good baking apples, remove the cores without dividing the fruit, and in thenplaces put two or three cloves and a little sugar. Place these in a buttered pie-dish, pour over them a light batter, and bake in a moderately hot oven. Time to bake, two hom-s. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five Apple Puddings (Alexandra's). Pare, core, and quarter half a dozen finelj'flavoured apples. Place them in a saucepan with a table-spoonfiil of water, the thin rind of half a lemon chopped small, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Simmer gently until reduced to a pulp; then stir in, while hot, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and when cold add two eggs weU beaten, a breakfastcupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a APP ( 10) APP cupful of niilk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Slix thoroughly, then pour into little cups jjreviously oiled, and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Turn them out, and serve with sifted sugar. Probable cost, lOd. Apple Puddings (Mother's). EoU out two pounds of crust of good suet or di'ipping {see 8uet Crust for Puddings), and let it be thicker in the middle than at the edges. Fill it with layers consisting of four tablespoonfuls of sliced apples, one tea-spoonful of tinely-shred suet, and one table-spoonful of currants. When full, fold it over, tie it in a well-floured cloth, boil, and serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, two houi-s. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. Apple Puflfs. Stew some apples with lemon- juice and sugar until they become a dry jam. Make a light sweet crust; stamp it out in small roimds, with an inner round marked, but not cut quite through. Bake them in a quick oven, take a little of the pastry out of the middle, and put the apples hi its place. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient, one for each person. Probable cost. Id. each. Apple Pupton. Prepare one pint of apple marmalade {see Apple Marmalade), and mix with it the yolks of five eggs, a handful of bread-crumbs, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Thi-ee ounces of stewed pears or cherries make an agreeable addition. Pour the mixtui-e into a well-oiled mould, and bake it in a slow oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Apple Rolls. Chop a few apples very fine, and sweeten tlicm with sugar. Lay tlu-ee or four table-spoonfuls of this in the middle of a circular or oval piece of paste, rolled out a quarter of an inch thick. Fold it ia two, lengthwise ; unite the edges, and press or scallop them with the bowl of a tea-spoon. Lay the rolls on a baking-tin that has been previously greased, and put it into a moderate oven. It is a good plan to use apple marmalade instead of chopped apples, as then there is no fear of the fruit not being sufficiently cooked. Time to bake, half an horn-. Sufficient, one roll for two persons. Probable cost, 2d. each. Apple Roly-Poly. Shred very finely six ounces of beef suet, and mix with one pound of flour. Make into a paste with half a pint of water. Roll it out about the third of an inch thick, and eight or ten inches wide. Spread over, rather thickly, tlii-ee pounds of apples boiled to a pxilp and sweetened and flavoured. Leave half an inch of the edges untouched with fruit. Roll round, fasten the ends securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, and boil. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, two and a half hom-s. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apple Sauce, Baked. Apple sauce may be made by placing the apples and the water in the oven in a closely-covered jar until ?they are reduced to a pulp, and tjien beating them as in the preceding recipe. Apple Sauce for Roast Goose. Paio, core, and shce fom- or five large apples ; place them in a saucepan with only just- enoiigh water to keep thom from burning. Let them smimer gently, stinging frequently, over a slow yre, until they are reduced to pulp. Turn them into a bowl, and beat them well with one teaspoonful of sugar, the squeeze of a lemon, and a small piece of butter. Time, half an horn' to simmer. Sufficient for a small goose. Probable cost, 4d. Apple Snow. Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp, press them through a sieve, sweeten and flavour them. Take the whites of six eggs, whisk them for some minutes, and strew iato them frn-o table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Boat the pulp to a froth, then mix the two together, APPLE SNOW. and whisk them until they look Hke stiff snow. Pile high in rough pieces on a glass dish, stick a sprig of mjTtle in the middle, and garnish I with small pieces of bright-coloured jelly. I Tune to beat the snow, tkree-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for a medium-sized glass dish. I Apple Snow with Sponge-Cake. j Put four or five sHces of sponge-cake into a ] glass dish, and pour over them first two table1 spoonfuls of sherry, and then a cupful of cream. Place in a saucepan five or six finely-flavoured apples peeled and cored, with a little water, sugar, grated lemon - rind, and lemon - juice. Reduce them to a pulp, press the pulp thi-ough a sieve, and beat it with the whites of six eggs until it is white and frothy. Heap it over tlie cakes as high as possible, and serve immediately. Time to beat, about an horn-. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six i ersons. Apple Snowballs. Pare and core without breaking six large apples, and place in the hollow of each a little sugar and powdered cinnamon. Boil a cupful of rice in a little milk until it is half cooked. Then put each apple into a separate cloth ith a sixth part of the rice spread on the cloth, tie it firmly, boil, and serve with sifted sugar. Time to boil, threequarters of an hour. Sufficient, one each for six persons. Probable cost, 9d. APP (20) APP Apple Snowballs (another way). Pare and core without Ijreaking half a dozen large, s&und apples. Put in each a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a nut. Tie each apple separately in a cloth, with sufBcient rice, which has been partly boiled, to cover the apples all round. Boil it an hour and a half, and serve with sweet sauce. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient, one ball for each person. Apple Solid. Melt a heaped table-spoonful of isinglass in a little water. Take half a pint ?6f nicely-iiavoured appl-e-pulp, mix it well with half a jiint of cream, and place it in a saucepan with the isinglass ; let it simmer for a few minutes, stirring all the time ; add a glass of wine or a table-spoonful of brandy, pour into a buttered mould, and keep it in "a cool place until the next day. Sufficient for five or six persons. -Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Apple Soufle. Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp, sweeten and flavour them nicely, and place them in the middle of a glass dish. "V\Tien cool, pour over them a good custard, made with half a pint of cream, the yolks of four eggs, sugar, and flavouring. "\ isk the M-hites to a sohd froth, place it in rock-like pieces over the custard, and bake it in a quick oven. Serve it immediately after it is taken out. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for four or five jiersons. Apple Soup, German. Pool half a dozen large fresh apples, cut out the cores, and boil them thoroughly with three jjints of water, a thick slice of " the crumb of bread finely grated, the rind and juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon. When cooked to a pulp, rub them through a sieve. Add two glasses of white wine, and sweeten to taste. Serve with toasted bread. Sufficient for four or five persons. Time, one liour. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive of the wine. Apple Sugar. r.oil a pint of apple-juice APPLE SCG. (.9V Apple- Juice) with two pounds of loaf sugar, until it becomes brittle as soon as it is ch-opped in cold water. Then pour on a well-oiled dish, draw it out into twisted sticks : dry them, and keep them m a tin box. Time to boU, about twenty minutes. I'robable cost. Is. per pound. Apple (Swiss) Pudding. Butter a deep pie-dish. Place in alternate layers two pounds of apples sliced, sweetened, and flavoured, and two pounds of rusks soaked in. milk and beaten with a fork. Let the msks be at the top and the bottom. Pour melted butter over the whole, and bake until nicely browned. Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Apple Tansy. Pare and core six or eight large apjjles, cut them into thin, round slices, and fry them in butter. Then beat up three eggs in a pint of cream, and pour them upon the apples. Time to try the apples, five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apple Tart or Cake. Line a shallow pie-dish with good puff paste. Make a mixture consisting of two pounds of apj les pared, cored, and chopped, the peel of two lemons grated, a piece of butter the size of a large egg, four eggs well beaten, and a cupful of cream or new milk, and sugar according to taste. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Put them on the paste, leaving a narrow rim all round. Blanch a few almonds, cut them into long strij s, place them over the top of the apples, and bake in a quick oven. Care should be taken that the almonds are not too much baked. Time, three-quartei-s of an hour. Sufficient for three medium-sized dishes. Probable cost, '2s. 6d. Apple Tart, Economiea-l.- Take threequarters of a pound of flour: mix with it a teaspoonful of baking powder, and a little salt ; rub well in half a pound of clarified beef diipping, and make it into a paste with cold water. Roll it out two or three times. Line the edge of a pie-dish with a little paste about a quarter of an inch thick. Wet it all round to make the cover adhere. Pare, core, and quarter a dozen, apples. Put them into the dish with a little moist sugar, a couple of cloves, and a tablespoonful of water. Cover it over with paste. Trim it nicely round the edges. Make a hole in the middle for the steam to escajje, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, one hour. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, lOd. Apple Tart, Open. Line a shallow tartdish with puif paste. Spread over it smoothly apple-pulp flavoured and sweetened, about half OPEN TART. an inch in thickness. Cut strips of pastry, twist them, and lay them in cross-bars over the tart. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Probable cost, 8d. APP -i ) APP Apple Tart, Plain. Line the edge of -i tart-tli.sh with good short ci-ust, till it with npplcs pared, cored, and quartered, and a little lemon -juice and sugar strewn over. A little water may be added if the apples are n-ot juicy. Cover it with paste and Lake in a good o\'en. Time to bake, nearly an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pi'obablc cost, Is. Apple Tart, Rich. Line a tart-dish M-ith puif paste. Eub the apples well before paring them, then put the skins and cores into a saucepan, with the rind and juice of a lemon, one clove, some fine sugar, and enough water to cover them. "V\Tiile they are simmei-ing, fill the dish with ajaples sUced. Pour the strained liquid over the apples, cover with the i)uft' paste, and bake. Serve with cream or good custard. Time to bake, nearly an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apple Tart, Young. Very young apples, baked without paring make a nice tart, if they are very slowly cooked. Place the apples in the pie-cHsh, line the edges with pufi paste, add plenty of sugar and a little lemon- juice, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a quarter. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Probable cost, Is. Apple Trifle. Take eight or nine fine apples. Stew them gently to a pulp, adding sugar according to taste, and flavouiing with grated lemon-rind or cinnamon. AVhen cold, place in a glass dish, and jiom' over them a good cold custard, made of the yolks of three eggs, -one pint of milk, a little sugar, and a little sherrj', simmered gently together and allowed to cool. Then take a pint of thick cream, warm it a little while over the fire with a little sugar, and another small glass of sherry. 'Wlien cold, whisk it into froth, and as the froth rises, place it on a sieve to drain, and after it has stood some time (for no whip is solid that has not .stood some hours), place it on the apple and custard in a rough, rocky form, and ornament -w-ith pink sugar, &c. Time for the whipped cream to stand, twelve houi's. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Apple-Water. Rub well three large apples to make them perfectly clean. Slice them, pour a quart of boiling water on them : let it stitnd some time, then strain it, and boil it up vnth the juice of half a lemon and a little sugar. Time to boil, five or six minutes. Sufficient for a quart of the liquid. Probable cost, 4d. Apple-Water (another way) . Pare, core, and quarter five or six tart apples. Place them in a saucejmn with'thc peel of half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of washed currants, and a little sugar. Let all simmer slowly together. Strain, cool, add a little white wine, and the apple- water is ready for use. This is a pleasant drink for hot weather. Time to simmer, one hour and a haH. Sufficient for a pint and a half of the liquid. Probable cost, 6d. Apple-Water, Iced. This is an agxeeable beverage, which may be made as follows : Slice fuui- large juicy ap jles, and pour over them a quart of bcriliag water. Cover closely the vessel which contains them, and when the liquid is cold, strain and sweeten it, and flavour with a little lemon- juice and the rind of a lemon rubbed upon sugar. Ice it, if desired. It is ready for use as soon as it is cold. Probabe cost, 6d. Sufficient for a quart of liquid. Apple- Water, Iced (another way) . Boil six large juicy apples cored and quartered until they can be pulped through a sieve, when add to the strained juice a quart of lemon- water, and freeze in the usual way. The preservingpan containing the apples should be placed far enough from the fire to prevent them from being burnt or losing their nice colour. Freeze in the usual way for about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three pints. Apples (a la Cherbourg). Choose firm but good boiling apples. Pare them, and cut them into bricks. Put a pound of sugar, the thickly -peeled rind of two lemons, and a little ginger, to every pound of apples, and cover them closely for some houi's. Then place them in a preserving-pan, being careful not to break the apples, and put to them half a cupful of cider. Let them boil until the apples look quite clear, , then remove them one by one to a dish. When cold, place them in cross jjiles, and crown the whole with the Icmon-jjeel. Pour the syiup round, and eat with Devonshiie o va. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. Probable. cost of apples cooked this way, lOd. per pound. APPLES (A Li MAItlEj. Apples (a la Marie). Pare some large, firm apples, and scoop out the core without dividing them. Fill the cavity with cream or custard. Cover each apple M-ith a Ettle short crust, with a sort of knot or bow at the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient, one for each person. Probable cost, 2d. each. Apples (a la Portugaise) . Peel and coi-e, without dividing, half a dozen large baking apples. Put into a stewpan a cupful ef sugar and a cupfid of water, place it on the fire, and when the scum rises, put the apples in, and let them simmer very gently tmtil they are tender throughout. Lay them in a glass dish, coloiuthe syrup with a few drops of j repared cochinesil, and pour it round them, and lay on the top of each apple a spoonful of bright-colomed jam. Time to boil the apples, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Apples, Baked. Pare some good apples, and scoop out the cores. Put a little sugar ancl two cloves into each hollow, place them in a dish, not allowing them to touch each other, strew powdered sugar over them, and a little APP (22) APP swcot wine w-ith some thin lemon-rind in it. Cover the dish, and bake in a slow oven. Time to hake, three-quarters of an horn-. Sufficient, one apple for each person. Probable cost. Id. each. Apples, Baked (another way). Take eight or nine good baking apples : ?\\ipe them carefully, and place them in a shallow earthenware dish, haK an inch apart. Put them in a genfle oven, cook them as slowly as possible, and do not allow them to burst. When quite tender, set them aside to cool, and serve vith sifted sugar. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Allow one for each person. Apples (Baked) for Children. Take a large caa-then jar, and fiE it to ?s\ithia three inches of the top with well-Avipod apples of any sort in the house. Neither peel them nor remove the stalks. Pour over them, so as to cover them eompletely, a mixture of treacle or brown sugar and water. If the apx les are windfalls, you may allow a little extra sweetening. Put with them some pieces of orange or lemon-peel, and a few cloves. Cover the jar ; leave it for three or four hoirrs in a cool oven. If the oven is too hot, the hquid vrill boil over or evaporate, and the apples be dried up or burnt. Probable cost. Id. each. Allow one for each person. Apples, Buttered. Pare and core without breaking a dozen golden pippins. Cut pieces of bread in roimds large enough for an apple to stand upon, and place them in a wellbuttered dish with an apple upon eaoh. Fill the holes with butter and sugar. Bake them in a gentle oven until tender, then put them upon a hot dish with a little apricot jam on the top of each, and cover with sifted sugar. Time to bake, thirty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Allow one for each person. Apples, Buttered (another method). Place half a dozen good boiling apples, pared and cored - dthout dividing, in a saucepan ? \'ith a piece of butter the size of an egg. First put in the holes where the cores were a little sugar and a clove: stew them very gently, turning them now and then, until they are quite tender. Cover the bottom of a glass dish with a layer of marmalade {See Apple Marmalade), lay the apples gently on it, put a little red currant jelly on the' top of each one, and strew over them sifted sugar and powdered cinnamon. Time to bake, twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Apples, Clear. Put half a pound of sugar into a saucepan with a pint of water and the rind and j nice of two lemons. Let it remain on the fire imtil the scimi rises, then put in half a dozen large apples, pared, cored, and quartered. Let them simmer gently, leaving the lid oif tke. , saucepan, imtil the apples are clear. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six persons. Apples, Compote of. Pare a dozen goLlcn pippins, or any other finely-flavoured apples, and scoop out the core withorit breaking them. Place them in a deep dish with a cupful of water, a poimd of sugar, and a few di'ops of the essence of vanilla or lemon. Cover the dish, and place it in a moderate oven until the apples are cooked thi'ough. Take them out, place them in a glass dish, and seiwe with custard or cream. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Ig. Sufficient for six persons. Apples, Frosted. Take enough apples pippins will be best for the purpose to fiU a dessert-dish. Simmer them gently in a pan of cold water, and a small piece of alum, with a few vine-leaves between and over. When the skins can be easily pulled oif with the fingers remove them, and have ready some clarified butter in which to dip each one as it is peeled. Strew with crushed white sugar, and bake in a slow oven. The sugar, if carefully done, will sparkle as if frosted. When quite cold place them on a glass dish, piling them high. They should simmer about ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. per dozen. Apples in Pastry. Peel and core two pounds of apples. Put them into a pint of cold water Yith. two pounds of loaf sugar, a Httle cinnamon, the juice of a small lemon, and a httle butter. Boil to a pulp. Well oil a pie-dish; line it with good pastry about half an inch thick, and bake it in a quick oven. Place the apple pulp inside, pour custard over it, and ornament with alternate dots of red jelly and white of egg. Lift the pastry out of the chsh before ser\'ing. Time to bake the pastry, twenty minutes. Sufficient for five persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Apples, Miroton of. Pare, core, and slice half a dozen finely-flavoured apples. Place them in a stewj an with veiy little water, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and some powdered cinnamon, and let them simmer very gently until iseduced to a pulp ; lay this smoothly in a dish. Then boil seven or eight lumps of sugar with a tea-cupful of water and the thinly-grated rind of two lemons : add a lump el l)iitter the size of an egg, a sj oonf ul of flour, another of brandy, the yolks of three eggs, and the white of one. Mix these well over the fire until quite smooth ; pour over the apples ; then whisk to a stiff froth the 3S of the eggs. Put this over th is it is going into the oven ; ba .erve with sifted sugar. Time sr of an hour. Sufficient for fi sons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Apples, Miroton c Pare and core without di finely-flavoured apples; ratelv thin shces. Place h mne odepiece APP (23) APP of butter the size of an egg, lot it melt, then add to it a quarter of a pound of sugar, a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, and Hkc juiee of a lemon. Fry the apples gently in this, then arrange them cither round the inside of a dish, each slice resting on the edge of another, or piled high in the middle. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Apples, Preserved. Pare, cere, and chop small three pounds of good cooMng apples. Have ready some thick boiling sjTup, made of three pounds of siigar and a piat of water. Throw in the apples, with the chopped rind of three lemons and one ounce ?f whole ginger. Let it simmer gently until fee fmples look clear. Time to simmer, ab??t han an hour. Probable eost, 2s. 3d. 8i+fficient for half a dozen jars of moderate az+. Apples, Preserved, for winter use. When it is desired to preserve api los for use in winter, the fruit should not be allowed to remain too long on the trees, as Ukarc is a danger of its being blown down when it becomes quite ripe, and then it is Bot good for keeping. Apples, and indeed all fruit intended for keeping, should be hand-picked. The best way to remove them from tSie tree is to cut them off with a pair of strong pruning scissors, and to handle the fruit as lightly as possible. If practicable, the apples shoulcl be gathered in fine, dry weather. They should then be wiped thoroughly diy, and eveiy one which appears in the slightest degree unsound rejected. In storing apples, they should be placed in a dark, diy place in single rows upon clean straw, with straw placed between each row, so that they are not allowed to touch each other ; each layer must be treated in a similar way. They should be looked over frequently, and any that may have become unsound removed. Apples may bo also stored in boxes or jars, care being taken in packing the fruit, that it is not bruised or injui-ed, and that every apple is quite sound. The aii- must be excluded from the cases as much as possible. Apples, Red Hot. Take a quantity of Keswick codlings, jmred, cored, and cut in quarters. Stew them in a little water, but not so long as to allow them to become pulp. Sweeten amply with pounded loaf sugar, and flavour to taste, with ca3'enne pepper ; colour with cochineal. Apples (Red) with Jelly. Take half a dozen very fine api)les. Pare and core without di\-iding them, and put them in a saucepan with a pint of water, the rind of a lemon, and half a pound of loaf sugar. Place them on the fire and stew them very gently until the apples are quite tender, then lift them out and lay them in a glass dish. Boil the sugar and water with a little melted isinglass until it jeUies, then strain it, adding a few drops of prepared cochineal, and put it aside. Vhen it is quite cold, lay it in rock-hke pieces among the apples, and garnish the dish with sprigs of myrtle, the white of egg beaten to a froth, &c. kc. Time to simmer the apples, about three-quarters of an horn. This fonns a very pretty supper cUsh. Sufficient for live or sisc persons. Probable cost, l . Apples (Souflie of) in Rice. Put into a saucepan a quart of new milk, a cupful of rice, the rind of half a Ipmon, a piece of butter the size of a nut, and sugar to taste. Let it simmer very gently until the milk is absorbed and the rice quite tender. Beat it well for foiu' or fire minutes ; brush the border of a good- sized dish with white o? egg to make the rice adhere, then laj' it roimd in a border about four inches wide. Take a breakfast-cnpfid of applo jam, and mix wiiii it a piece of butter, melted, the size of an egg, and the well-beaten j-olks of three eggs. Stir this over the fire gently for a few minutes, then add the whites of four eggs whisked to a froth. Fill the dish, and bake in a good oven imtil the souffle rises. Serve immediately. Time to bake, aboixt half an howr. Sufiicient for six persons. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Apples, Stewed. Apples are very nicepared, cored, sliced, and gently stewed with a httle white wine, sugar, and flaroiu-ing. They arc quickly prepared, served with custard are a pleasant substitute for apple pie, and are an agreeable adclition to the tea-table. They may be mixed with plums or other fruit. Time to stew, a quarter of an hour. Apples, Stewed for Dessert. Wipe carefully six or eight large apples. Place them in a saucepan with half a pound of sugar, a few cloves, the rind and jmce of a lemon, and a pint and a half of watei-. Let them simmer at the side of the fire until the apples are tender but not broken. Lift them out with a spoon, and lay them in a glass dish. Strain the juice, then let it boil a few minutes longer to reduce it. When almost cold, jjour it over the apples. Invalids find apples stewed in thisway much more tender than if simjjly baked. Time to stew, about thi-ee houi's. Apples, Stewed in Halves. Pare, core, and halve half a dozen good-sized bakingapples. Place them in a saucepan with three table-spoonfuls of sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, and the rind of an orange. Let them simmer gently until they are soft. Seiwe with the syrup strained and j oured over them. Time to simmer, haK an hour. Apples Stewed in Whiskey. Pare and core without dividing two pounds of sweet apples. Place them in a saucepan with two' glasses of whiakey, a pound and a half of sugar, a little whole ginger, the rind and juice of two lemons, and an inch of cinnamon. Simmer very gently for two hours. Take the scimi oii' as it rises, and turn the apples every now and then. 'NTicn the apples are clear, take them off carefully, place them in the jars in whi h they are to be kept, and boil the liqi- id a fewminutes, and pour it over them. This is a very nice dessert dish. If tied do-mi clasely, the" friut will keep twelve months. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the whiskey. Apples and Almonds, Pudding of . Stew to a pulp six or eight good baking apples APP (24) APR sweeten and flavour tlicni ; then lay them at the bottom of a well-buttered dish. Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds ; add to them four table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, two table-spooirfids of floui-, the grated rind and juice of a lemon, and four well-beaten eggs. Spread the mLxture over the apples, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about forty minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Apples and Apricots, Charlotte of. Take slices of the crumb of bread about a quarter of an inch thick, or, if preferred, a few Savoy biscuits. Have ready a plain round moidd. Cut a round large enough for the bottom of the dish, and a number of fingers for the sides. Fry them in butter to a light brown, and spread them thinly on one side with apricot jam. Arrange them in the mould, the round at the bottom and the fingers at the sides, each piece overlapping another to prevent the fruit escaping. Fill the middle with apple mai-malade, over which spread a thin layer of apricot jam. Cover the top closely with pieces of fried bread, place a dish over it, and bake in a quick oven. Serve hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost of a moderate-sized mould, Is. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Apples and Apricots, Chartreuse of. Put a quart of new milk into a stewpan i with -a cupful of rice, the rind of a lemon or a little cinnamon, two table-spoonfids of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a nut. Let it sinrmer gently until the milk is nearly all absorbed ; then beat it well, and place a thick layer of it at the bottom of a well-buttered piedish. Pare and core half a dozen good-sized apples, but neither di de them nor open them i quite through. FiU the cavity in each with a little butter and sugar. Arrange them in the dish, and pour the rest of the rice round them, making the whole smooth. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and when sufficiently cooked, put a large spoonful of apricot jam at the top of each apple. Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, forty minutes. Sufficient for six pei-sons. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Apples and Apricots, Compote of. Place in a saucepan half a jjound of sugar and half a pint of water. Let it boil for ten minutes to thicken, then put into it eight or nine golden pippins pared and cored without being divided. Let them simmer very gently until they are clear and soft, but not broken. Lift them out carefully, and lay them in a deep glass dish ; pour round them some good cold custard, and put on the top of each apple a spoonful of apricot jam. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five oi' six persons. Apples and Apricots, Croquettes of. Take four taljlo-siiuonfuls of apple and two of apricot mai'uiala(l(?'. ]Mix with them the yolks of six eggs well beaten. Put these into a saucepan and simmer gently, stirring all the time. When the mixture is stiff, mould it into balls ; dip them into the white of egg well beaten, and a few broad crmnbs. Fiy in boiling, oil or butter, and serve hot. Time to simmer the fruit and yolks, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four persons. Apples and Pears, the Pips of. When bruised in a mortar, these impart a delicious flavoui- to tarts. Apples and Rice. Put eight or nine good-sized apples, pared, cored, and sliced, into a saucepan with a little cinnamon, three ounces of sugar, a small piece of butter, and sufficient water to prevent bm-ning. Allow them to simmer gently imtil reduced to a pulp, which must be spread at the bottom of a well-oiled pie-dish. Boil half a cupful of well-washed rice in a pint of milk, M-ith a little cinnamon and sugar, until the milk is absorbed and the rice quite soft ; then mix in the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and boil two or three minutes longer, stirring quickly. Pom- over the apples, smooth it evenly, and place the dish in a qiuck oven to brown. Serve \\-ith sifted sugar. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, Is. Apples and Rice (another way). Simmer a cupfid of rice in a quart of milk until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. Add a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, and haK a dozen drops of essence of almonds. Beat well for a few minutes, then place in the centre of a large dish a roxmd jar, and pour the rice round it. Paie, core, and cut six or eight large apples into slices half an inch thick. Fry them in boiling oil or butter until they are cooked through, but do not allow them to break ; stick them into the rice, and ornament it prettily with coloured jam, pink sugar, red jeUy, or in any way that the fancy may suggest. Before serving, lift the jar from the centre of the dish, and fill the hole with a good custard {see Custard) . This may be eaten either hot or cold. Time to boil the rice, forty minutes. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 2s. Apples and Rice (another way). Simmer a cupful of rice -w-ith a quart of milk, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of half a lemon, until the rice is tender, and the milk absorbed. Beat thoroughlj' for four or five minutes, and place it in the centre of a large dish, piled high in the form of a pyramid. Have ready one dozen apples stewed whole {see Apjiles, Stewed.) Arrange them round the rice, with the syrup in which they were stewed coloui-ed with a few drops of cochineal, and serve quite hot. Time to boil the rice, forty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Apples with Custard, Pancake of. Pare, core, and slice four good-sized aj ples. Fry them in butter, and when they are brown on one side, turn them over, and pom- over them a custa*i'd made of fom- eggs beatan, a cupful of cream or new milk, and a little cinnamon. Fry to a light bro-wn. Turn carefidly, and serve with sifted sugar. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient for three persons. Probable cost, Is. , if made with milk. Apricot, The. The apricot is a fruit of foreign origin, but many varieties are now APR (25) APR cultivated in this country, chiefly by grafting on plum-trees, 'hc'n perfectly ripe it is a delicious table fruit, although it possesses qualities of a laxative tendency, and should not be partaken of too freely by persons of dehcate constitution on that account. A large variety of excellent made-dishes can be fonned of apricots, and for preser\'ing purposes they are very valuable. The fruit should not be kept long after gathering, as it soon becomes insipid. The skin has a fine flavour, and if the apricots are prepared quickly after being plucked the perfume gives an agreeable piquancy to the dish. The finest apricot is the iloorpark, and the Breda is considered the best species cultivated in the South of England. The fruit is in season in Jime and July. O Apricot Brandy. To every pound of fruit, take one pound of loaf sugar and a Avineglassful of water. Put the apiicots, -which must be sound, but not quite ripe, into a preservingpan, with sufficient water to cover them ; allow them to boU; then simmer gently tUl tender. Eemovo the skins. Clarify and boil the sugar, and pour it over the fruit. Let it remain twenty-four hom-s. Then put the apricots into glasses, and fill them up with syrup and brandy, half and half, and keep them well corked, and the tops of the corks securely sealed. They must be kept twelve months before using. They should be prepared in July. Time to simmer the apricots, about one hour-. Apricot Charlotte. Well butter a plain round mould. Cut pieces of stale bread a roimd for the bottom and fingers for the sides. Fry them in butter, and arrange them in the dish, each piece overlapping another, so that the fruit may not escape. Pour in while hot a little apricot jam. In making the jam, allow half a. pound of sugar to every pound of fruit, blanching two or thi-ee of the kernels and boiling them with it. Put pieces of buttered bread over the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn out carefully, and serve hot, \sath a little sifted sugar, or with a sauce made of the juice of a lemon stirred into a cupful of milk, and heated over the fire gently, whisking all the time to bring it to a froth. If a richer pudding is desired, slices of spongecake may be substituted for the bread, and a custard ser\-ed with it. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufiicient for six persons. Apricot Charlotte (another way). Butter an ordinary pie-dish. Put at the bottom a layer of bread-crumbs about a quarter of an inch thick, and then a layer of hot apricot mai-malade, and repeat until the dish is full. Lay two or three pieces of butter on the top, and pour a cupful of cold water over the whole. Bake in a moderate oven. Time ? to bake, half an hour. SuSicient for six i persons. I Apricot Charlotte (another way). Put a piece of the crumb of bread about the size j of a penny piece at the bottom of a pint basin ; j then put five or six fingers of bread round i it, leaving a little distance between each finger. Put in some apricot or any other jam, hot, a ' spoonful at a time, to prevent the bread lea -ing I its position. Cover the top entirely with pieces 3 of bread in the shape of dice, press it down with a plate and a weight, and leave it until cold. Tiu-n it out on a glass dish, and pour a little custard round it. Time to stand, five or hours. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Apricot Chips, Put one poimd of impeded apricots, cut into slices, into a thick syrup made of two pounds of sugar boiled with a pint of water until it is nearly candied. Let them stand in this a couple of hours ; then put them into a presei'%-ing-pan, and make them as hot as possible without boiling. Take them from the fire and let them stand all night. Next day remove the chips from the syruj), spread them on plates, and di-y them. Time to remain in the candy, twenty-four hours. Apricot Cream. Take a dozen and a half lipe apricots: pare, stone, and hah-e them, and place them in a saucepan with a cupful of sugar dissolved in a cupful of water. Let them simmer gently until they are reduced to pulp, when they must be pressed through a fine sieve, and put aside to cool. Boil a pint and a half of new milk or cream with tliree tablespoonfuls of sugar. If these cannot be easily obtained, Swiss milk may be substituted, and will answer very much the same purpose, but it must be remembered that whenever this is used, less sugar will be required. Let it cool after boUing, then put to it the yolks of eight eggs well beaten. Pour this into a jug, which must be placed in a saucepan of boiling water and stii-red one way until it thickens. Add one OTmce and a half of isinglass which has been boiled in a little water, and when the cream is cold, mix the apricot with it; pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould, and keeii it in a cool place. If apricots are out of season, apricot marmalade may be used instead. Time to thicken the cream, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. 6d, if made with milk, and with apricots at Id. each. Apricot Custard. Line a pie-dish with a good short crust. Spread smoothly at the bottom, a layer of apricot marmalade about an inch in thickness, and pour over it a custard made of a pint of new milk, two eggs, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice, a little sugar, and four drops of the essence of almonds. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Apricot Drink. Peel a dozen apricots, and, after taking out the stones, pour on them a quart of boiling water; allow them to stand for an hour, then strain off the clear liqiiid, and sweeten with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient to make one quart. Apricot Fritters. Make a light batter by mixing a quarter of a pound of flour and a pinch of salt with a cupful of water, sturing briskly until it is quite smooth; then add a cupful of millv, and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth, and put in at the last moment. Peel, halve, and stone a pound of apricots, draw them through the batter, and fry them in boiling oil or butter until they are nicely bro-svned. Drain them from the butter. APR (26) APR pile them high on a folded napkin, and serve with sifted sugar. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Suflficient for four or five persons. Apricot Ice Cream. Take half a pound of apricot jam: mix with it a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, half a doaen ahnonds blanched and pounded, and two table-spoonfuls of noyeau. i\Iix and strain thoroughly. Freeze, and serve either in a mould or glasses. Time to freeze, about half an hour. Sufficient for a pint and a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Apricot Ice Cream (another way). Rub through a fine sieve half a pound of apricot jam with a pint of cream, the strained juice of a lemon, half a dozen bitter almonds poxmded, and a glass of noyeau. Freeze twenty-five minutes. Or, take a dozen fine rij e apricots. Skin, stone, and pulp them through a sieve with a pint of hot cream and five or six ounces of the finest sifted sugar. Mould and freeze. The apricots may be scalded before they are pulped. Sufficient for six or more persons. Apricot Jam. Pare three pounds of fresh sound apricots, halve them, and take out the stones. They should be ripe enough to halve Avith the fingers. Place them in a deep cHsh, and strew over them one pound of finely-sifted sugar. Let them remain for eight hours. Then pla.ce them with the sjTup that will have oozed from them in a preserving-pan ; add a few of the kei-nels blanched and sliced, and another pound and a half of sugar. Let them boil very gently, and, when done, put them into jars and cover closely with gmnmed paper. Time to boil, half an hoiu-. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Apricot Jam, Green. Take two poimds ?f yoimg apricots: place them in a jar, and pour a little boiling water over them. Let them remain in this for one minute; remove them and rub off the down. Place them in a preserving-pan with a cupful of thick sjTup, aad let them simmer very gently tmtil the fruit is quite tender. Take them out and put them on an inverted sieve to drain. Make a syrup of two pounds of sugar and two cupful? of water. Put the apricots into this, and boil for twentjr minutes ; then put them into jars, and cover the fruit tn each jar with a piece of pajDcr dipped in oil, and cover with thin paper brushed with white of an egg or a little giim-water. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Apricot Jelly. Pare, core, and halve about thirty ripe apricots. Blanch and pound a few of the kernels, mixing with them the juice of a lemon. Weigh the apricots, put them into a, saucepan with an equal weight of sugar and the pounded kernels ; let them boil gently, stirring continually, imtil they fonn a thick marmalade. Then pour it into a mould which has been filled with cold water. Let it remain until quite stiff, and turn out on a glass dish. This is an excellent dish for invalids. Apricot Jumbles. Pom- boiling water ovsi" the apricots and let them remain until they are soft, then remove the stones, and day the fruit in a pan over the fire, or in an oven. Then beat it into a stiff paste with an equal weight of sugar, roU it into lengths, tie the lengths into knots, and preserve for use in a diy jjlace. If it is mshcd, these jumbles may be coloured red by the addition of a Uttle cochineal to the fruit pulp. Apricot Marmalade. Peel, quarter, and stone foui' pounds of ripe apricots, and put them into a preserving-pan, without either water or sugar, and let them boil gently, stirring continually, until the fruit is reduced to a pulp. Then add three pounds of sugar, and a few of the kernels blanched and halved, and boil once more. Put into jars, cover the fruit ? \'ith an oiled paper, and fasten over each jar a piece of thin paper dipped in gum-water. When dry it \iill be tight and hard. Time to boil with the sugar, twenty minutes. Sufficient for foiu- or five jars. Probable cost, 4s. Apricot Marmalade (another way). Take five pountls of ripe apricots so ripe that they can be halved with the fingers : pare, stone, and sUce them, and strew over them five poimds of sifted sugar. Let them remain twelve hours. Then boil sugar, jmce, and fruit very gently, and when done, place in jars, which must be made perfectly air-tight. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable cost, os. 6d. Sufficient for five or six one-pound jars. Apricot Paste. Peel and stone some apricots, and put them into a dish in a warm oven; cover the fruit with another dish, and let them, remain until they are tender ; then take them out and let them get cold. \\Tien this is done, take the same weight of powdered loaf sugar as there was fruit, and moisten it -with a small quantity of water ; boil it until ready to candy, and then mix the apricots with it; stir the syrup continually, and boil it until it becomes of the consistency of marmalade. Make this paste into the shape of apricots, and put it in a warm place. When diy it will be found veiy transparent. Time to boil the sugar and fruit, half an hour. Apricot Paste (another way). Spread apricot marmalade on shallow tins, and dry it gradually in a slow oven. When nearly dry, cut it into slips or ornamental shapes. Apricot Paste (another way). Peel the apricots, boil them gently until tender; drain them, and beat them into a pulp. Boii the pulp with half its weight of crushed loaf sugar, until it becomes thick and clear. Take the same quantity of sugar, boil it with a little water until ready to candy, and mix it A dth the pulp, but take care not to allow it to boil. Poui' this paste into jars, and place them in a warm oven until it candies; then take out the candied pulp and dry it on plates. Time to boil, about half an hour. Apricot Paste, Green. Scald the apricots, beat them up, and strain the soft pulp. Mix it -with syrup containing twice the weight of the fruit in loaf sugar, and let it boil for a short time , then remove it from the fire, and when cold pour it into moulds. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Apricot Pie. Pare, stone, and halve the apricots. Place them in a pie-dish, piling them I r ?t APR (27) APE, iiigh in the middle. Strew over them a little sifted 'sugar, and a few of the kernels blanched and chopped small. Cover them with a good light crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an houx. Probable cost, 2s. for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for foiu' or five persons. Apricot Preserve. Peel and stone some moderately ripe apricots ; put them at night in a deep jar between layers of crushed loaf sugar. Next morning pour over them some white cun-ant juice, or white wine, and place the jar in a large saucepan of water, which must be kept boiling until the sugar is completely dissolved; then take the saucepan off the fire and let it get cold. Place the fruit and sp-up in a preserving-pan, and boil very gently untU the fruit is tender. Allow half a pint of juice and a pound and a half of sugar to every pound of frmt. Time to simmer, forty minutes. Apricot Pudding. Pour a' pint of new milk (boiling) over six table-spoonfids of breadcriunbs. Let them stand until cold. Then add the well-beaten yolks of thi-ee eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, a sHght flavouriug of the essence of almonds, and four oimces of sifted sugar. Beat them thoroughly, then add to them twelve apricots which have been pared, stoned, and siimnered gently until they have been reduced to a pulp. Lastly, whisk the whites of two eggs to a th-m froth, and add them to the rest. Place the whole in a pie-dish which has been lined with good puif paste, and bake La a quick oven. Time to bake, half an hoiu-. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Apricot Puddixig, Baked. Peel, stone, and halve a dozen fresh ripe apricots : place them in a saucepan with a glassful of white wine, and let them simmer very gentlj for a quarter of an hour-. Take them from the fire, and add four of the kernels blanched and pounded, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Beat them with a fork ; then mix with them four sponge-cakes crumbled, a breakfast-cupful of new milk, and thi-ee eggs well beaten. Pour the mixtme into a well-oiled mould, and bake innnediately. This puddingmay be eaten hot or cold. If cold, turn it out into a glass dish, and pour round it a good custard. Time to bake, forty minutes. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cast, Is. lOd., with apricots, Id. each. Apricot Ratafia. Cover some sliced apricots \-ith white wine, and simmer them gently until they are reduced to a pulp ; then pour them into an earthen jar. Add to them a cupful of brandy, and a quarter of a pound of sugar to each quart of liquid. Put in with them tlu'ee or four- of the kernels of the fruit broken in pieces, vnth a little mace, cloves, and sinnamon. Let these materials macerate in the ratafia for a fortnight ; then strain the liquid, and preserve it in well-closed vessels. Time to sirmner the apricots, half an hour. Apricot Souffle. Pare, stone, and slice one dozen large ripe apricots. Place them in a saucepan with three table-spoonfuls of sifted J3ugar and three of water. Let them simmer gently tmtil reduced to a pulp, then mix in very smoothly three table-spoonfuls of ground rice ORNAMENTAL SOUil-Lli or flour, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a breakfast-cupful of cream or new milk. Vhen the liquid boils pour it out and add to it the yolks of six eggs. WeU oil the soufflc PLAIN SOUFFL]? DISH tin, and at the last moment add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Bake in a quick oven, and let the souffle be served directly it is taken out, or it will be spoilt both in taste and appearance. Time to bake, half an hour. Pr?bable cost, 2s., if made wi h milk ; apricots. Id. each. Sufficient for a moderate-sized tin. Apricot Syrup. Takeoff the skins from some ripe apricots, stone them, and cut them into small pieces; place them in a dish, and strew over them a thin layer of sifted sugar. Let them remain a couple of houi's ; place them in a saucepan with a Httle water, and let them simmer gently until they are soft. Strain the juice, and add to it sugar in the proportion of a poimd to a pint. Boil it gently, skimming thoroughly all the time ; let it get cold, then bottle it ; it will be foimd useful to flavour custards, cream ices, &c. The fruit ia the jelly-bag must not be squeezed. After the juice has rim from it, it will make very nice tartlets, with the addition of a httle sugar. Time to boil with the sugar, ten or twelve minutes, by which time it will become thick and clear. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pint. Apricot Tart, Green. Take as many green apricots as may be requncd for the dish : put them into a saucepan with a Little water, to keep them from bm-ning, and half theii weight in sugar. "When they are soft through, put them, with the sjTup, Lato a pie-dish wliich has been lined at the edges with good puff paste. Pile them high in the middle, cover, and bake in a good oven. The dish will be much improved in appearance if it is iced before sending to the table. To do this, beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, lay on the tart, and shake sifted loaf sugar over it ; then put it into a moderate oven for five minutes to sot. It APR (128) APE must not be uUowcd to colour. Wlicn apricots cannot be obtained, young apples taken from the tree before the cores are formed are an excellent substitute. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Suificient for four or five persons. Apricot "Water Ice. Skin, divide, and stone, six large rijie apricots. Blanch, pound, and add the kernels to the fruit, with the juice of two lemons, half a pint of water, and two of clarified sugar. Then pass all through a fine sieve, and agaia strain before freezing. Time, twenty-five minutes to freeze. Probable cost of apricots. Id. each. v Apricot Wine. Boil twelve poimds of sliced ripe apricots and a pound of sugar in three gallons of water for half an hour, and strain the liquor into a pan. Put with them a few of the kernels of the fruit, mix all together, and having covered the vessel, leave the liquid to cool. Mix one table-spoonful of fresh brewer's yeast with it, and leave it for three or four days to ferment. Then pour off the clear liquid into a cask, which must be scrupulously clean, and let it remain until the fei-mentation is ended. A pint of Rhenish or other white wine should then be added, and the cask closed for six months. At the end of that time it should be decanted into bottles, and kept for a year longer before being used. Time to boil, half an hour; ferment, thi-ee or four days. Probable cost, 3s. a gallon. Sufficient to make three gallons. Apricots (au Eiz). Put a cupful of rice in a saucepan - vith a quart of milk, a piece of butter the ize of a nut, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and the rind of a lemon. Let all simmer gently, and when the milk is absorbed and the rice tender, add to it four well-beaten eggs. Boil up again, stii-ring all the time, to cook the eggs. Remove the lemon-rind. Put a gallipot in the middle of a large glass dish, and heap the rice round it ; smooth it -svith the back of a spoon, and let' it slope down to the edges of the dish. When it is cold, remove the gallipot, and place the apricots in the hollow, piling them pyramidically. They must be prepared thiis : Take two dozen ot the fresh fruit, sound and ripe : pare, stone, and slice them. IMalce a syrup of a breakfast-cupful of sugar and the juice of two lemons. AVhen it is boiling, throw in the slices, and fry them quickly. A few of the kernels may be blanched and chopped and strewed over the fruit. Place a layer of apricot mai-malade mixed with the syrup at the bottom of the hollow, and pile the fried fruit on that. Time to fry the slices, five minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Apricots, Compote of. Take one dozen large sound apricots ; halve them, remove the stones, and blanch the kernels. Put threequarters of a pound of loaf sugar into an enamelled ste\vpan with a pint and a half of water. Let it boil ; then put in the apricots, and let them simmer very gently for a few minutes. Take them out, di'ain them, and arrange them in a dish. When the syrup is cold, pour it over the fruit. Put' half a kernel upon each piece of apricot. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Apricots, Compote of (another way). Pai'c and scald eight or nine apiicots ; hfdve and stone them. Put into a saucepan half a pound of pounded loaf sugar and half a pint of water. When the scmn rises, put in the apricots, sliced, with three of the kernels. When done, j ut them in a dish, and pour the syruj) round them. Time to simmer, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient, one apricot for each person. Apricots, Compote of Green. Remove, by rubbing with a dry cloth, the down fiom a pound of young green apricots. Put into a saucepan three-quarters of a j int of water and half a pound of sugar ; let it boil for ten minutes or more, being careful to remove the scum as it rises. Put in the apricots; simmer thorn very gently. Lift them out one by one yiih a spoon to prevent them breaking, and place in a glass dish. When the sjTup is cool, pour it round them. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Apricots, Flanc of. Make a good short crust with one poimd of floiu', six ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of sugar, the yolk of an egg, and enough milk to make the pastry of a projier consistence. Well butter a plain o'\'al mould, and line it with the crust about half an inch in thickness, pressing it well in to take the shape. Let it rise above the mould about half an inch, and pinch it at regular distances to ornament it. Fill it with flour, and balce it in a good oven for about half an hoiu-. Then empty out the floui-, take the case from the mould, being very careful not to break it, and put it back in the oven for another quarter of an hour. It is now ready for the apricots, which should be pared, stoned, and halved, then simmered gently in a sjTup made of half a pound of sugar boiled in half a pint of water, until they are quite tender but not broken. Lift them out, arrange them neatly in the crust ; boil the syrup until it is reduced to a jelly, and pour it over the fruit. Serve either hot or cold. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for thi'ce or four persons. Apricots, Frosted. Choose twelve sound apricots: put them into a saucepan with cold water to cover them and a piece of alum the size of a nut. Let them stew a few minutes very gently, imtil the skin can be dra-wTi oif . Remove the skin, dip the apric?ts in tlarified butter, and strew thickly over them sugar coarsely crushed. Put them into a moderate oven imtil the sugar sparkles; but take care that the fruit is not broken. Pile them on a dish, and serve cold. Time to bake, a quarter of an horn. Probable cost, 9d. Siifficient for five or six: persons. Apricots in White Jelly. Take half a dc en apiicots : scald them and draw off the skin; then place them in a saucepan with a cupful of water and half a pound of sugar boiled to a syrup; let them simmer gently until they are tender, but not broken ; place them in a mould, which must be filled with white APR (29) APR currant jelly. If there is any doubt about the stii&iess, a little isinglass might be added. When quite firm, it may be turned out. Time to sinmier the apricots, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Half a dozen apricots sufficient for a pint mould. Apricots Preserved in Jelly, Tal e t-?'o 250imds of sound and not ovcr-ripc apricots, and four of jjowdered loaf sugar : pour a Kttle boning watei' upon the fruit ; then ckaw off the skin, and take out the stones by making a slit with a knife at one end, and pushing them gently out. Strew half of the sugar ixpon a dish, jjlace the fruit upon it, and cover with the rest. Let it remain thus for two or three hours, then put the whole carefully into a preservingpan ; let it boil very gently until the apricots are tender, turning them frequently to prevent them burning, and taking off the scimi as it lises. Put the apricots into the glasses in which they are to be kept, then add to the syrup half a pint of- apple- juice, and half a poimd of sugar: let it boil until it will jelly, which it should do in a few minutes, then pour it over the fruit. Apricpts, To Bottle (for Tarts in Winter time). Choose some ripe apiicots : pare, stone, and quarter them. Lay them on a dish with powdered sugar strewn over them in the proportion of two ounces of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let them remain thus for two or three houi-s ; then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, cover them and place them up to their necks in a saucepan of cold water. Keep them there until the water lioils. Cork the bottles and wax them secm-ely. Time to boU, half an horn-. Apricots, To Candy. Slit the fruit on one side and take out the stone, dry them separately on a dish, and cover them with crushed lump sugai'. Bake them in a hot oven, and then cb-y them in a warm place for a few days. Apricots, To Dry (a quick and easy method). Pare, stone, and halve the fruit, then place it in a deep stone jar. Put the jar in a saucepan of boiling water over a good tire, and keep boiling until the fruit is quite tender. Lay the apricots on a sieve, that the juice may di-ain away, and afterwards put them on plates. Strew sifted sugar thickly over them, and put them in a warm place to di-y, before storing them away. Time to boil the fridt, about half an houi\ Apricots, To Dry. The apricots should be taken before they are quite ripe. Scald them, draw off the skin, divide and stone them. Place them in a dish, with their weight in sugar strewn over them, and let them remain twentyfour hours. Then put the whole into a pre?ser dng-pan, and simmer them very gently until they are clear. They must remain in the s;sTup for two days. It must then be drained from them, boiled, and poured over them, and they must remain in it two days more. It must ! then be di-a-?-n off, and used for flavonring or other purposes, and the apricots dusted with i sugar and placed a little apart from each other I in a cool oven to dry. They keep best in a tin box with writing-paper between the layers. The apricot syrup mixed with an equal quantity of brandy also makes an agreeable liquor. Time to make, six days. Apricots, To Dry (another way). Wipe gently, stone, and halve some fine apricots, which must be sound and not very ripe. Weigh them, place them in a single layer in a large dish, strew their- weight in sifted white sugar thickly over them, and leave them untU the following day. Then put them carefully into a preser\'ing-pan over a moderate fire ; let them heat very gradually until tender. Take them out gently, so' as not to break them, and let them stand in the syrup for two days, after which, take them out of it singly, place them on dishes to tU-y. They must be kept in a dry place. Apricots, To Dry (French method). Take some sound Init not over-rijDO apricots : wipe them and weigh them ; make a hole with a knife at one end, and remove the stone without di\-iding the fruit. Put them into cold water, and simmer until they are quite tender. Take equal quantities, by weight, of sugar and fruit, and boil it in water, allowing a cupful to each poimd. When the scum rises, put in the apricots, and let them remain until they look cpiite clear; then put all into a jar, and let it remain until the next day, when the syrup must be di-ained off, boiled for five or ten minutes, and poui-ed again over the fruit, to remain another twenty -four hours. This process must be repeated three times. Then the liquor must be drawn from them for the last time, and the apricots placed separately on dishes, and di'ied very slowly. Time to make, five days. Apricots, To Preserve (AVhole or in Halves). Take four jjounds of fine apricots which are not fully ripe. Let them be gathered, if possible, in the morning, when the sun is on them, as the flavour is then much the best; make a small slit with a knife at the end where the stalk has been, and push the stone gently out. If they are to be preserved in halves, the stone can be easily removed. Throw them into cold water, and simmer them gently until they feel soft when a pin is pushed through them. Take them out and put them in fresh cold water. Put into a preserving-pan one quart of water and four pounds of loaf sugar. Put it on a moderate fire, and stir it until the sugar is dissolved. When it boils, put in a tablespoonful of cold water ; when it boils up again, take it off the fire and let it stand for a few minutes to settle. Talce off the scum, and boil it again. Drain the fruit, and put it into the syrup ; let it boil xip four or five times, eveiy time taking it off to cool, when it must be well skimmed. The last time, let it remain until the fruit is quite clear, which will be in about fifteen minutes. Just before it is taken from the fire, blanch and shce a few of the kernels and add them to it ; or they may be blanched, and put into a little spuit tmtil the jars are ready to be tied up, and then a few strewn at the top of each. This plan may be followed in preserving whole many of the better kinds of APil (30) ARR fruit such as pcachea, nectarines, greengages, jioai's, itc. Apricots with Bavarian Blancmange. Put an oimcc of isinglass in a cupful of Avatcr. Let it soak twenty minutes, then boil it until dissolved in a saucepan with, a pint of cream or new milk. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over a tea-cupful of apricot jam, and mix with it very gradually four table-spoonfuls of milk. Stir all together for a few minutes ; strain through coarse muslin, and when nearly cold, put it into a mould which has been j)re\dously soaked in water. Let it stand twelve hours in a cool place. Time to boU the mixture, five minutes. Apricots with Rice. Simmer very gently a small tea-cupf id of rice with a quart of milk. When the milk is absorbed and the rice thoroughly cooked, put it iato a bowl and beat it, for five or ten minutes, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and six drops of almond flavouring. Press it into a mould which has been previously soaked in water, and when it is quite cold turn it into a glass dish, and poiuround it apricots steAved in halves in a syrup made of a pound of sugar, the juice of three lemons, and three or four- spoonfids of water. A few drops of prepared cochineal put into the sji'up will improve the appearance of the dish. Apples or pears may be used instead of apricots. Time to boil the rice, three-quarters of an hour: Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six persons. Arabian Coffee. All travellers agree in then- account of the delicacy and delicious flavour of the coffee used in the East. It is prepared thus : Pound thoroughly in a mortar some coffee-berries that have been freshly and quickly roasted. Pass them through a fine sieve two or three times, until at last you have a bro- Ti flour. Mix two tea-spoonfids of this flom-, and a small piece of cinnamon, with two cupfuls of water. Boil it gently, then draw it back for a moment, and repeat this several times, until a cream rises to the top ; then add half a cupful more boiling water, and it is ready to serve. Neither sugar nor mili; are required. Arabian Pilau. Cut iato pieces, about two inches long, four pounds of the neck or breast of mutton, with sufficient stock for it to swim in. Add salt, pepper, and a blade of mace, and simmer it gently for nearly two hours. Have ready a pound of Patna rice which has been boiled as if for curry that is, put into cold water and boiled up ; then drained and cold water again added ; boiled and drained once more ; then put bj' the side of the fire with a piece of butter in it the size of an egg, and allowed to remain until tender. The pan must be shaken occasionally to prevent it sticking. Take out the pieces of moat, fry them lightly in butter, and place them among the rice. Garnish with the yolks of eggs boiled hard, and sliced fried onion, or pieces of bacon. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 4s. Aromatic Cordial. Put two ounces of ground ginger, half an ounce of pepper, an ounce of cardamom seeds, half an ounce of bruised cinnamon, half an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of orange-peel, in a quart of good Avhiskey. Let it stand for a fortnight, tightly corked; then strain and bottle it. It is good to take two or three tca-spoonfids in vrme or water when suffering fi'om indigestion or dobiUty. Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices. Take an ounce and a half of thpnc, one ounce of bay-leaves, an ounce of savoury, an oimce of basil, and an ounce and a half of marjoram. Dry them thorouglily, pick the leaves. Pound in a mortar a quarter of an oimce of cayenne pepper, with an ounce oi peppercorns, an ounce of cloves, a clove of garlic, the thinly-peeled rind of a lemon, half an ounce of mace, and one nutmeg grated. IMix all well together, pass them through a sieve, and keep stored in well-corked bottles. Time to prepare, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for a pint bottle. Aromatic Wine. Mix eighteen grains of the bisul[)]i:ite of quinine and fifteen grains of citric acid in a buttle of orange v.'ine. Shake it Avcll, then put it aside to settle. Arroba Pudding. Put a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan, -with two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, a pinch of salt, and a littlecinnamon ; stir it over the fire till it boils, let it cool, and then add foiu' eggs well beaten. Poui' the mixture into a Avell-oiled moidd, and steam it, being careful to cover the top of the mould. Boil it for two hoiu-s ; then take it out, and put it into the oven for a quarter of an hour to make it firm, but do not let it colom-. T\u-n it out, and servo with it a sauco made of a cupfid of milk, the yolk of an egg, and a little sugar, stirred over the fire till it thickens, and then two or three spoonfuls of sherry or brandy added. Probable cost, without the sauce, 9d. Sufficient for six persons. Arrowroot Biscuits. Beat a quarter of a poimd of butter to a cream: add gradually thi'ee well-beaten eggs, a quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and three ounces of arrowroot, pounded to crush the limips. jMix all smoothly together. Have ready a well-oiled tin, and drop from a spoon in pieces about the size of a florin. Bake in a slow oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour-. Sufficient for two dozen biscmts. Probable cost, lOd. Arrowroot Blancmange. Mix two ounces of arrowroot Avith a cupful of water, taking care to make it qiute smooth. Put a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan with the rind of a lemon and a table-spoonful of sugar, and when it boils, strain it, and pom- it over the arroA\Toot. Set it on the fire to thicken, and before pouring into the mould, which must be well oiled, add a little brandy. It is better to oil the mould than to soak it in water, as it gives the blancmange a glistening appearance. Garnish with bright red jolly or jam. Time, half an horn-. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 6d., Avithout the jam and brandy. ARR (31 ) ARR Arrowroot Cream. Mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot with two of cold water. Boil a pLat and a half of new milk with a bayleaf, or the thin rind of a lemon, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar. Strain it, and pour it, boiling, upon the arrowroot ; stir it frequently till it is cold, then pour it into a glass dish. This may be served with tarts or stewed fruits. Time to boil, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. for a pint and a half of cream. Arrowroot Drops. Put into a welloiled saucei an a large cupful of arrowroot which has been previously rolled to crush the lumps, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel, and a well-beaten egg, and boil them together, stii-riug briskly all the time until they are light and thick. Then drop them on a well-buttered tin in pieces about the size of a shilling, and bake in a good oven. They should look white and rather rough. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour-. Probable cost, Is. Arrowroot Fritters. Put a pint of new milk and a table-spoonful of sugar into a saucepan "v\-ith three or four laurel-leaves. AVlien it boils, stLr into it a quarter of a pound of arrowroot which has been smoothly mixed with a little cold water; then add the beaten yolks of four eggs. Stir it constantly until it is thick and smooth ; then pom- it into a welloUed pie-dish, and bake in a good oven. Allow the mixture to cool ; then stamp it out in rounds ; dip them in egg and bread-crumbs ; fry them in hot lard, and heap them in a dish. Serve with jam sauce. Time, twenty minutes to boil ; ten minutes to bake ; five minutes to fry. Sufficient for foiu" or five persons. Probable cost, Is., without the jam. Arrowroot Jelly. Soak the t n rind of a lemon and a table-spoonful of sifted sugar in a cupful of cold water. Let it remain four houi-s ; then strain the liquid, and mix it with three table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, a tablespoonful of brandy, the juice of four lemons, and thi-ee di-ops of almond flavom-ing. Put it into a saucepan, and stir it until it is thick. Put it into a damp mould, or let it get cold ; then serve it in glasses. Time to boil, five minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a half -pint mould. Arrowroot Jelly (another way). Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a little water, and pour upon the paste a pint of boihng water and white wine sweetened and flavoured with almond or lemon flavouring. Stir it well ; then put it again on the fire, still continuing to stu- it until it is quite thick. Pour it into a mould which has been soaked in cold water; tui-n it out the next day, and ser%-e it with cream-custard or jam. Time to boil -nath the an-o- Toot, three or fo\u- minutes. Sufficient for a pint mould. Probable cost, 4d., ?ndthout the wine and cream, &c. Arrowroot, Nourishing, for Invalids AND Sick Children. Boil half an ounce of hartshorn shavings and a httle lemon-rind in a pint of water for fifteen minutes ; strain, and pour the liquid upon two dessert-spoonfuls of aiTowi-oot which has been previously mixed with a httle cold water. Stir briskly, and boil for a few minutes ; then add a tea-spoonful of sugar and a glass of wine. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, without the wine. Sufficient for one person. Time to boil the shavings, a quarter of an hour. Arrowroot Potato Flour. Peel some fine mealy potatoes, and grate them into a pan filled -ith cold water. Let it settle, then strain through a fine sieve; pour on fresh water, stir it round, and let it settle again. Eepeat this five or six times, until the powder is quite white and the water clear. Spread the sediment upon a dish, and put it into a cool oven to di-y, stirring it frequently. Sift it, and put it into bottles, which must be kept well corked. Time, several hours. Arrowroot Pudding. Mix two dessertspoonfuls of arrowroot A\'ith half a cupful of milk. Place a pint and a half of milk in a saucepan with the grated rind of half a lemon and a table-spoonful of sugar. Boil it, and pour it upon the an-owroot. Stir it well, and when cool, add three well-beaten eggs and a l)iece of butter the size of a walnut. Line the edges of a well-buttered pie-dish with puff paste, spread a layer of preserved fruit at the bottom, then pour in the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an houi-. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost. Is. Arrowroot Pudding, Plain. Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a little water. Put into a saucepan a pint and a half of milk, with a little grated nutmeg and a tablespoonful of sugar. When it boils, pour it upon the arrowroot, stirring it well, and add a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour it into a weU-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour or more. This is a wholesome pudding for the nursery. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 6d. Arrowroot Pudding, Steamed. Mix two table-spoonfids of aiio\ Toot with a cupful of milk. Flavom- a pint and a half of milk with cinnamon, lemon, orange, almonds, or whatever may be preferred ; put it on the fire, and when it boils, pour it upon the aiTowroot. Stii- well, and when it is cool add tkree wellbeaten eggs, a table -spoonful of sugar, and the same of brandy. Put it into a well-buttered mould, cover it over, and steam it. When ready to serve, turn out, and put jam round it in the dish. Time to steam, one horn- and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Arrowroot Sauce. Mis a de.ssert spoonful of arrowroot with half a pint of water. Put it into a saucepan and let it boil gently, stirring all the time. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and any flavouring that may be preferred. A table-spoonful of brandy will be an improvement. This sauce is suitable for rice, bread, or plum pudding. Time, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six ARR (32) ART Arrowroot Sauce, Clear. Rub the tliin rind of a lemon on largo lumps of sugar, and put them in a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of raisin or gooseberry wine. Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a little water, stir it graduaiiy :r..c die wine, and pomit round the pudding. Time to boil, ten minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 6d. Arrowroot Souffle. lix four tablespoonfuls of arrowroot with a cupful of milk. Stir it gradually into a pint of boiling milk, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar on which the rind of a lemon has been rubbed. Let it boil for a quarter of an horn-, stirring all the time. Take it from the fire and let it cool, then stir in the well-beaten yolks of si.K eggs. Well oil a plain tin mould, and when everything is ready, whisk the whites to a solid froth, and add them to the rest. Fill the tin three-parts full, and bake for twenty minutes in a good oven. Serve inunediately. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Arrowroot, To Prepare. Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot with a little cold water. Pour on it, very gradually, half a pint of water boiled with a little lemon-rind ; stir it briskly, and boil for a few minutes. Sweeten it, and add a little sherry or port wine. For infants, a drop of cinnamon-water, or of the essence of caraway-seeds, may be put in. Fresh milk may be substituted for the water, then the wine may bo omitted. If there is any fear that the milk is in the slightest degree adulterated, it will be much better to use preserved milk, if for invalids. In that case no sugar will be required. Probable cost, 2d. per pint without the wine. Sufficient for one person. Arrowroot to thicken Sauces. Arrowroot may be used to thicken sauces for those who object to butter, as invalids often do. Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, and stir it into a pint of the boiling liquid. Time to boil, four or five minutes. Probable cost, Id. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. Arrowroot Water. A Drink for Invalids. Boil the thinly-peeled rind of a small lemon in a quart of water. Pour it, when boiling, over a table-spoonful of arrowi-oot which has been mixed with two table-spoonfuls of -wdne or brandy, if these are allowed, if not, with a little cold water ; stir it well, sweeten it slightly, and let it boil again two or three minutes. A little lemon- juice is an improvement. Sufficient to make a quart of the liquid. Probable cost, without the wine, 3d. Articlioke Bottoms. Take a few artichoke bottoms, dried. Soak them, and boil them in sufficient clear stock to cover them. When tender, which may be ascertained by sticking a fork into them, take them out, let them drain, then put a little forcemeat into each one, and serve them in a napkin. Time to boil, if young, thi-ee-quarters of an horn- ; if fully grown, an hour and a half. Sufficient, one for each person. Probable cost, 3d. each. Articlioke Bottoms, To Pickle. Parboil the artichokes; pull out the leaves, and do not remove the choke. Allow them to cool ; put them into pickle-bottles. Boil sufficient vinegar to fill up the bottles, adding to every quart of vinegar a dessert-spoonful of salt, a small tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a blade of mace. Simmer it for twenty minutes. Put it aside, and when cold pour it into the bottles, which must be corked closely. Probable cost. Is. for a pint bottle. Artichoke Bottoms, Stewed. Dried artichoke bottoms should be soaked for two or three houi-s in wami water, then boiled in salt and water, and served with wliite sauce poured over them ; or stewed in gravy flavoured with ketchup, salt, and pepper, and thickened with flour. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Artichoke Salad. Wash thoroughly and quarter some very young artichokes. Remove the chokes, and eat them like radishes, yvith iDejiper, salt, vinegar, and oil. They taste like nuts, and make a nice relish. Time to prepare, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. each. Artichoke Sauce. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan ; let it melt ; put into it an onion sliced, half a head of celery, a table-spoonful of chopped ham, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, one salt-spoonful of salt, and a httle cayenne. Stir the ingredients constantly over a fire gently for a quarter of an hour, adding more butter, if necessary. Then add to them a pound of Jerusalem artichokes, boiled and beaten to a pulp, and a pint of milk. Boil all together until the sauce is rather thicker than cream. Strain, boil again, and serve hot. Time to boil the ingredients together, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pint. Sufficient for rather more than a pint of sauce. Artichokes (a la Barigoule). Wash and trim three or four artichokes ; remove the chokes, and fry the top of the leaves and the bottom of the artichokes in hot lard or fat for three or four minutes. Fill the cavities with a forcemeat made with two ounces of finely-shred suet, two ounces of undressed veal free from fat or fibre, two ounces of bread-crumbs, two teaspoorifuls of chopped pai-sley, a quarter of a tea-spoonful each of marjoram and thyme, half a tea-spoonful of chopped shalot, two drachms of salt, one of pepper, one of powdered mace, and one of grated lemon-rind, ilix thoroughly; then work them together with the yolk of an egg. Fasten a piece of bacon on the top of each artichoke. Bind them with string or tape to keep them in their proper shape. JPut them in a stewpan with brown gravy sufficient to cover them. Let them stew gently till tender ; remove the strings; put them on a dish - \'ith a little of the gra\'y, thickened, round them. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four persons. Artichokes, Pried (a la Gouffc). Wash and trim three young, freshly-cut artichokes. Cut them into thin slices, and as they are cut throw them into water with a cupful of vinegar in it; this is to preserve the colour. Drain. ART ( 33 ) ART them, and season them with a pinch of salt and the same of pepper. Make a batter with tliree eggs, two table-spoonfuls of oil, and two of floiu-. When all are well mixed, put the slices of artichoke into it, and stii' it gently for three or four minutes, until every piece of artichoke is well covered. Fry gently in hot fat, being careful that the vegetable is cooked tkroughout as well as browned. Drain off the fat, pile the shccs on a napkin, and garnish Avith a little fried parsley. Time to fry, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Sufficient for two or thi-ee Artichokes (a la Italienne). Well wash, trim, and quarter the artichokes, and boil them in salt and water until tender. Remove the chokes, ch-ain thoroughly, and arrange them on a dish with the leaves outwards, and intersperse them with watcrcresses. Pour good wliite sauce, ilavoured \ath stewed mushrooms, over them. Time .to boil the artichokes, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Allow one artichoke for each person. Artichokes (il la Lyonnaisc). Wash, blanch, and trim four artichokes ; then place thcin in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, the juice of a lomon, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of pepper. Siuuuer them gently until they are sufficiently cooked, then drain them from the fat, and put them iiito the oven to brown hghtly. Put a cupful of good stock into the saucepan in which the artichokes were stewed. Stir gently for a few minutes, add a glass of white wine, and serve. Time, thi-eecpiarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. .Sufficient for thi-ee persons. Artichokes (a, la Poi\'rade). Take four or live young artichokes: trim them, remove the chokes, cut off the lower leaves, divide them into four-, and throw them iato \-inegar and cold water to preserve the colour. A\nien wanted, di-ain them from the vinegar and water, put them into a tiish, and serve like radishes. Pe])por, salt, oil, and %-inegar should be sent to table with them. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Sufficient for a small side-dish. Artichokes, Boiled. Soak the arti?chokes, and wash them in several waters to expel the insects. Cut the stalks even, and trim away the lower leaves and the ends from the upper one. Boil them in plenty of salted water with the tops downwards, and let them remain until the leaves can be easily drawn out. Before dishing them, remove the chokes. Fill as many cups as there are artichokes with good melted' butter, and place them roimd the dish. Time, if young, from half to threequarters of an hour; if fully grown, an hoiuand a half. Allow three for foiu- persons. Probable cost, from 2d. to 4d. each. Artichokes, Dried. Wash the artichokes in two or three waters. Put them for a quarter of an hour in plenty of fast-boihng water. Drain, and place them in a moderate oven for an hour. Allow them to cool. Piepeat this several times, until they are quite di-y. They should be kept in a dry place, well covered. Time to prepaie, three or four hours. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Artichokes, Pried. Wash, trini, and boil the artichokes as directed in the recipe for ARTICHOKE IN SECT. OX. A The Leaves, b Tlie Clioke. c The Bottom. boiling. Remove the chokes and the outer leaves, leaving only the most tender. Cut them into about a dozen pieces, then dip them in batter, fry in hot oil or di-ipping imtil they are lightly bro\\Tied, drain, and serve with fried parsley. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Allow three for four persons. Artichokes, Fried (another way). Pare some artichokes, and boil tliem in salt and water for about a quarter of an hour. Drain, and cut them into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, dip them into the white of egg well beaten, and afterwards sti'ew finely-grated bread 0.1 them. Fry in boiling oil or lard till they are nicely browned, and serve piled high on a dish. Time to fry, eight minutes. Artichokes, Jerusalem, Boiled. Peel the artichokes, and throw each root into cold water and vinegar immediately, to preserve the colom*. Put them into l)oiling water, %vith a little salt, until sufficiently tender for a fork to pass through them easily, then pile them on a dish, and serve as hot as possible with melted butter or white sauce poured over. Soyer ART (34) ASP shaped them lite a pear, then stewed them gently in three pints of water with two or three onions thinly sliced, one ounce of salt, and one oimce of butter. He then placed a border of mashed potatoes round a dish, stuck the artichokes in it points upwards, poured over them either white sauce or melted butter, and put a fine brussels sprout between each. It made a pretty inviting dish. Time to boil, about twenty "minutes. They should be tried with a fork frequently after a quarter of an hour, as they will become black and tasteless if allowed to remain on the fire longer than necessary. Allow two pounds for a tureen. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Articliokes, Jerusalem, Fricasseed. Boil some artichokes according to the preceding recipe. Take them out of the water and di-ain them. Put a breakfast - cupful of milk into a saucepan, flavom- it th salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon, and thicken it Avith a small piece of butter roUed in flour. Turn the artichokes into this, and let all stew together gently for a few minutes. Time to stew, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Allow two pounds for a tureen. Articliokes, Jerusalem, Pried, Pare and cut the artichokes in slices about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and fry them in sufficient boiling oil or lard for them to swim in until they are a rich brown. Strew a little salt over them, i)ile high on a dish, and send to table hot. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. iSufficicnt, two pounds for a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per poimd. Artichokes, Jerusalem, in White Sauce. Wash and pare the artichokes, and throw each root as it is pared into cold water, to preserve the colour. Cut a little jjiece ofl: one end, so that each one wiU stand, and taper the other end. Boil them in milk and water, and when tender ari-ange them in a dish with the points uppermost, and pour over them a good white sauce. Time to boil, about half an horn-. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Allow two poimds for a tureen. Artichokes, Jerusalem., Mashed. Wash and pare some artichokes ; boil them in salt and water until quite tender, then drain and press the water thoroughly from them. Put them into a saucepan, and beat to a pulp ; adding salt, pepper, and a Httle cream. Serve quite hot. Time to boil, twenty minutes; to mash, five minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per poimd. Allow two pounds for four or five per.sons. Artichokes, Jerusalem, Soup, or Puree of. Put a piece of biitter the size of an egg into a saucepan: let it molt; then fry in it one sliced turnip, one sliced onion, three pounds of Jerusalem artichokes washed, pared, and sliced, and half a pound of bacon in rashers. Keep these well stirred in the boiUng butter for about ten minutes; then add to them, gradually, one pint of stock. Let all boil up together until the vegetables are thoroughly cooked; then add thi-ee pints more stock, stir it well, add pepper and salt to taste, press it through a sieve, and add one pint of boiling milk. Boil five minutes more, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice. Time to boil, about one hour a"nd a half. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Artichokes Stewed in Gravy. Strip ofl: the leaves from the artichokes, remove the chokes, and soak them in lukewarm water for three hours, changing the water three or four times. Place them in a saucepan with enough gravy to cover them, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, roUed in floui-. Let them stew gently imtil tender, then serve mth the sauce poured over them, and as hot as possible. Time to stew, half an houi'. Allow one for each person. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Artichokes, Stuffed. Thoroughly wash the artichokes. Boil them until they are nearly tender, drain them, remove the middle leaves and the chokes, and lay in each a httle good forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Make a little good melted butter to serve with them. Time to bake, half an hour. Allow one for each person. Probable cost, 6d. each. Ashantee Pudding. Shred finely, with a Uttlo floiu-, haU a poimd of suet ; mix with it an equal weight of flnely-grated bread-crimibs, three oimces of ground rice, a tea-sj)Oonful of baking-powder, and the rind of a lemon, finely chopped. Stir all together; then add thi-ee eggs, and if it is too stiff, a little milk may be put in. Place the mixture in a well-oiled basin ; steam it, and serve hot, -with melted butter and a little sherry. Time to steam, two hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for six person-s. Ashberry Jelly. This fruit is not often for sale, but must bo gathered from the Mountain Ash. Wash the fruit thoroughly, and put it into a preser-\-ing-pan with water siifficient to cover it. Let it simmer gently until the water is red and has a bitter taste; then strain but do not squeeze the fruit. Put a poimd of sugar to every jiint of liquor, and boil it over a good fire until it jellies. Pour it into jars, and when cold cover with tissue paper dipped in gum water. The fruit should be gathered when it is red, but before the frost has touched it. It should be placed on the table with venison. Time to boil, about forty minutes. Asparagus, Boiled. Choose bunches of asparagus which have the cut fresh and the heads straight. If the cut end is brown and dry, and the heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept a day or two with the stalks in cold water, but is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal length. Let them lie in cold water until it is time to cook them. Put a handful of salt into a gallon of water ; and let it boil. Tie the asparagus in bimdles and put them into it. Toast a shoe of bread bro-v Ti on each side, dip it in the water, and lay it on a dish. When the asparagus is sufficiently cooked, dish it on the toast, leaving ASP (35) ASP the white ends outwards each way. Send melted butter to table ith it. Time to cook, about twenty minutes. Fresh asparagus cooks more quickly than stale. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. a hundi'ed. Sufficient, one hundi-ed for eight persons. Asparagus, Fricasseed. Wash a quarter of a hundi'ed heads of asparagus, cut off the tender portion, and lay them into cold water until they are required. Dixiin them, and chop them -with a young lettuce, half a head of endive, and a small onion. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, melt it, then mix with it smoothly a dessert-spoonful of floui- and half a pint of stock. Add the chopped vegetables, with jjepper and salt, and let all stew gently until the sauce is thick and good. Serve hot. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable cost for this quantity, Is. Asparagus, Preneh Method of Cooking. AYash and boil the asparagus about t\\-enty minutes ; then ch-ain them, and cut off the heads and about two inches of the tender part of the stalks; mince them small, and mix with them an onion also choiDped small. Add the weU-beaten yolk of an egg, salt and i ei i er. Slake it hot, put a slice of toast upon it, and pour a good sauce over all, or sijipets of toasted bread may be placed under it. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. -pev hundi-ed, when fullj' ,in season. Allow one hundi-ed for six persons. Asparagus Heads as Peas. Take off about two inches of the head-ends of the asparagus ; cut them into pieces about the size of peas, and put them into a saucepan with some cold salt and water. Let them boil about ten minutes; then take them out, di-ain them, melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, and place them in it. Shake the saucepan over the fire for a few minutes : then sprinkle a dessert-spoonful of flour OA-er it, and a small tea-cupful of boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, and pom- over the asparagus the beaten yolks of two eggs, mixed with f om- tablespoonfuls of new milk. Let all simmer gently for five or ten minutes; then scire. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Allow a hnndi-ed for a tureen full. Sufficient for five or six persons. Asparagus Omelet. Boil in the usual way twenty-five heads of asparagus, and cut the green ends, when tender, into pieces the size of peas. Asparagus that has been previously cooked may be used in this way, first heating it in a little boihng water. Mix -wdth them four well-beaten eggs, and add a little pepper and salt. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in an omelet pan, -pova' in the mixture, stir still it thickens, fold it nicely over, and sen-e with sauce and vinegar. Time to fiy, six minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Asparagus Pudding. Take half a hundred young asparagus, and cut up the green part into pieces as small as peas. Beat a piece of butter the size of an egg to a cream ; add to it a cupful of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of iinelychopped ham, four eggs well beaten, the asparagus, and a little pepper and salt. Mix aU well together, and add sufficient milk to make it into a stiff batter. Put it into a welloiled mould, wi-ap it in a floured cloth, and place in a saucepan of boiling water. "WTien sufficiently cooked, turn it on a hot dish, and pour good melted butter round it. This is a very nice way of cooking asparagus. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. for a pint mould. Sufficient for half a dozen pei'sons. Asparagus Sauce. Cut the green ends off a quarter of a hundred of asparagus, and boil them in salt and water until they are tender. Drain well, make a little good melted butter, using stock instead of water, putting ?ttdth it a lump of sugar and the juice of a lemon. Fry the asparagus points in a little boiling butter, press them through a sieve, then add them to the melted butter, and let all boU up together. If the colour is not very good, a few leaves of young spinach mixed in a mortar with pounded sugar will improve it. Time to boil the asparagus, ten minutes. To fry it, six or seven. Sufficient, a quarter of a hundi-ed of asparagus for half a pint of melted butter. Probable cost, lOd. per half pint. Asparagus Soup. Take a hundred heads of asparagus. Cut away the hard, tough part, and boil the rest till tender. Drain them, tkrow half into cold water until the soup is nearly ready, and press the other half through a hail- sieve. Stir the pressed asparagus into three pints of stock, wliich has not been flavoured with any other vegetable. BoU it, and add salt, pepper, and a small lump of sugar. Cut the remaining heads of asparagus into pieces the size of peas. Put them into the soup for a few minutes and serve. If necessary, colour- -R-ith a little spinach green. Time, about an hour. Probable cost of asparagus, 2s. 6d. a himdi-ed in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. , Asparagus Soup (another way). Take the tops from half a hundred heads of asparagus, and soak them in water for some time. Then put them into three pints of nicely-flavoirred stock to which has been added a cupful of new milk, and let them boil for ten minutes. If necessary, colour with a little spinach green. Time to make, one hoiu-. Sufficient for four- or flve persons. Probable cost, 6d. jaer pint. Asparagus Soup, AUemand. Lay three rashers of bacon at the bottom of a saucepan. Place on them four pounds of lean beef cut into pieces and rolled in flom-. Cover the jmn closely, and put it over a gentle fire to draw out the gravy, taking care it does not bum. Pour over it a breakfast-cupful of ale and three pints of water. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Strain the liquor, and take off the fat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pint. Or, boil gently for two hours half a pound of fresh meat cut small and rolled in flour, with a cupful of ale and two quarts of water. Lot the water be cold at fii-st, brought to a boil, then drawn on one side, and simmered slowly but constantly. A table-spoonful of ground rice may be added, if not quite ASP ( 36 ) AUN thick enough. Strain, and while boiling hot add two tea-spoonfuls of Liebig's extract of meat. 'Add pepper, and a liberal supply of salt. Then chop and pound together a cal . xge lettuce, a tea-spoonful of chopped mint, a leaspoonful of sorrel, the same of marjoram, live or six leaves of beetroot, and the same of spinach. Put them into the liquid, and let aU boil together. Thi-ow in a pint of asparagus tops, cut small, and boil till they are tender. Poui- hot over a French roU. Time, three hours. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Asparagus Stewed in Fi'eneh Rolls. Talce two or tlnvc French rolls, out a, piece off the top straight, so that it can be fixed on again, and scoop out all the criunb. ]\Iake a mixtiu-e of a pint of new milk, the yolks of five eggs, a little salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon. Put it into a saucepan and let it simmer gently, stirring constantly until it thickens. Boil a hundred young asparagus, cut about two inches from the tops, and chop them small, leaving about a dozen and a half of the tops imtouchcd. Fill the hollow rolls with the hot mixture ; make some holes in the lids of the rolls, stick the green ends that were not chopped into them, to look as if the asparagus were growing through the roUs, lay the tops on, and fry in boiling oil or lard. It will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil the aspai-agus. Probable cost of asparagus, 2s. Cd. a hundi-ed, when in full season. Sufficient for six persons. Aspic Game or Poultry. Cut up what is left of game or poultry into neat joints. Poiu' some aspic jelly into the bottom of a mould which has been soaked in cold water ; next a layer of stars or diamonds cut out of cold boiled white of egg ; a few leaves of parsley, and the red part of cold boiled tongue dotted here and there. Let it become nearly stiff, then arrange the cold game or poultry, taking care to leave room for the jelly to run in between. Fill the moidd ?\\-ith jelly, which should be cool when it is pom-ed in. When quite stiff, turn on a mould and garnish with parsley. Time to stiffen, about twelve hours. Aspic Jelly. Put a knuckle-bone of veal, a knuckle-bone of ham, a calf's foot, four cloves stuck into one large onion, one large carrot, and a bunch of savoTuy herbs, in two quarts of water, and boil gently until it is reduced rather more than half. Strain, and put it aside to cool. Very carefully remove every particle of fat or sediment, and place the jelly in a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a table-spoonful of tan agon vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the whites of two eggs. Keep stirring until it nearly boils, which may be known by its becoming white, then draw it to the side of the fire, and sinuner gently for a quarter of an hour. Put on the cover, let it stand to settle, and sti-ain through a jelly-bag two or three times if necessary, until it is quite clear. Put it into a mould which has- been soaked in cold water. Time, four or five hours. Sufficient for two and a IiaK pints of jelly. Probable cost, 2s. (id. Aspic Jelly (a quick way of making). Take a pint of nicely-flavoured, clear stock, put it into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, and a desert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Put a large table-spoonful of gelatine with two of water, let it swell, then stu- it in with the stock till it is dissolved ; add the whites of two eggs, di-aw the liquid to the side of the fire, and let it sinmier for ten minutes ; strain tkrough a jelly-bag till clear, and pour it into a mould that has been soaked in cold water. Time to make, about half an horn-. Sufficient for a pint and a half of jcUy. Probable cost, lOd. Aspic Jelly for Garnishing. Take two pints of nicely-flavoured stock, of a clear and Ann jeUy ; put this into a saucepan with a blade of mace, a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a glass of sheriy. Let it boil, then stir into it an ounce of the best gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water. Wlien again cool add the whisked whites of two eggs, let it boil, then draw it on one side to settle, strain thi'ough a jeUybag until quite clear, and pour it on a dish which has been standing in cold water. Cut it into dice for garnishing. Time to make, about an hour. Sufficient for two and a half pints of jeUy. Probable cost, lOd. without the wine. Asses' Milk, Artificial. Boil an ounce of pearl barley and an ounce of eringo ? root in a quart of water until it is reduced one half. Stir into it half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little water, a pint of new milk, and tAvo lumps of sugar. Time, one hom\ Sufficient for one quart. Probable cost, 8d. Asses' Milk, Artificial (a quick way of making). Take a tea-spoonful of prepared barley. Mix it smootlily with a table-spoonful of water, and stir it into half a pint of boiling water. Put with it a lumj") of sugar-candy. Let it simmer, stirring all the time, for five minutes. Strain it, then mix with it half a pint of new milk, and a well-beaten new-laid egg. This is a wholesome and agreeable drink for invalids. Time to prepare, ten minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for a pint and a half. Athole Cakes (very good). Mix two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, with half a pound of Maizena, and a heaped tea-spoonful of the best baking-powder. Shi-ed finely the thin rind of a lemon and a small piece of candied peel. Stir in another bowl six ounces of butter to a cream, mix with it the above ingredients, and last of all, add two well-boatoa eggs. Well oil patty-pans, put a piece about the size of a walnut into each, and bake in a good oven for five or six minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for two dozen cakes. Aunt Alice's Pudding . Place a little jam at the bottom of a pic-dish. J\lix three table-spoonfuls of bread-crimil)s, one tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemoni-ind, the juice of half a lemon with two eggs, and a tea-cupful of milk. Poiu- it over the jam, and bake in a good oven. A very nice pudding may be made by substituting pieces of stale AUN (37) AITS bread for the hread-crumts. Soak two or three pieces in the milk, beat well -sWth a fork, and add the other ingredients. Time to bake, throe-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 8d. Aunt Edward's Christmas Cake (Economical). Blend thoroughly one pound of flour, a jiinch of salt, one heaped tea-spoonful of baking powder, two ounces of butter, and two ounces of lard, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a pound of currants, candied lemon-peel and spices to taste. Mix rather lightly -u-ith new milk. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Sufficient for two moderate-sized cakes. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity. PUDDING MOULDS. Aunt Elizabeth's Pudding. Take a breakfast-cupful of stale bread finely grated, and poiu' over it a pint of milk. Let it soak for haK an hour, then beat it well with a fork. Next add a piece of butter the size of a walmit, a heaped table-spoonful of sifted sugar, J;he grated rind of a lemon, and the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a good oven, and when sufficiently cooked, spread a little applejam over it, and pile over that some acid ice. lieturn it to the oven for a few minutes. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Aunt Mary's Pudding. Well butter a plain mould, and stick alternate layers of raisins and sliced almonds round it. Pour a breakfast-cupful of warm fresh milk over a tea-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let them soak for a little while, then add a small piece of butter, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a little thinly-grated lemon-rind, and two eggs. Beat all well together, pour the mixture into the mould, cover it closely, and allow it to steam for three hours. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Aunt Susie's Pudding. Boat a quarter of a poimd of butter to a cream. Stir gradually into it two talilc-spoonfids of ground rice, and the same of fine flour, sugar to taste, the thin rind of half a lemon chopped small, 'two ounces of candied orange or citron-peel, a breakfastcupfiu of new milk, and two well-beaten eggs. Flavoxu- with a few drops of essence of almonds, pour the mixture into a well-oUed mould, tie in a cloth, and boU it. Tima out, and serve with sweet sauce. A little brandy wiU be an improvement. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Aurelian Cake. Mix half a pound of ground rice and half a pound of loaf sugar well together. Add to them the well- whisked yolks of twelve and the whites of seven eggs, with a little brandy and a few di-ops of essence of almonds. Stii- the whole well together for quite twenty minutes. Pour the mixture into a well-oUed mcJiild, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for a medium-sized mould. Aurora Sauce. Pound the spawn of a freshly-boiled lobster in a mortar, -vrith a piece of butter the size of an egg, until it is quite smooth, and season liberally with cayenne and salt. Put into a saucepan a breakfast-cu jf ul of good white sauce, and add a table-spoonful of lemon- j idee. Press the spawn through a fine sieve into the sauce; place it on the fire, and let it sinuner gently, taking care to lift it off tlie fire before it boils. Sufficient for a pair of soles. Probable cost, lOd. Time to simmer, two minutes. If the spawn is not at hand, the yolks of tliree eggs may be boiled quite hard, pressed through a colander, and substituted for it. RING DISH FOR AUSTRALIAN MEAT. Australian Meat. The persistently high price of butchei-'smeat having greatly increased the demand for, and turned the attention of the public to the beef, mutton, and other meats imported from Australia and South America, wo propose to give a few recipes for Preserved Meat Cookeiy. As the appearance of this meat is one of the chief objections to it, it should, when used cold, be served in the New Patent King Dish, the use of which is sufficiently explained in the above illustration, and in which the meat can be handled most convenicntl}-. Australian Beef (a la Mode). Take two pounds of Australian beef, cut into pieces about the size of a walnut, and roll in flom-. IMelt the drij ping which is with it in the tin, and mix with it very smoothly two tablespoonfuls of ground rice, and one pint and a half of nicely-flavoured stock. Add two bayleaves, seven black peppercorns, a salt-spoonful of salt, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and an onion with foui- cloves stuck in it. Let all boil \ip together; then simmer gently for twenty minutes. Strain the liquid, return it to the saucepan, and coloiu- it with a little browning; or if this is not at hand, put AUS (38) AUS two or three lumps of sugar into an iron spoon, and melt them over the fire until the sugar is a dark brown not black. Dissolve this in a little boiling water, and add it to the gravy, which ought to be a rich bro'W'n coloui" and as thick as cream. Put in the pieces of meat, let them simmer for three or foui- minutes, and serve on a hot dish. Time, one hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suiiicient for four persons. Australian Beef, Cold. The bull'shead knife is the best for opening the tins of Australian meat. Make a hole -Rith the sharp point about half an inch from the top. Put the sharp end of the knife into the hole and work round until the top of the tin is taken completely off. Turn the meat out firm into the dish. Remove every particle of di'ipping and jeUy, and serve with salad, pickles, and mashed potatoes. The dripping may be clarified, and used for frjdng or making plain pastry, and the jelly is a viiluable addition to stock or beef -tea. Sufficient, one two-pound tin for four persons. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 4d. Aiistralian Beef CoUops. Mince finely one pound of Australian beef. Place a iDiece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, and when melted fry in it one onion chopped small, till it is lightly browned. Then add a cupful of nicely-flavoured stock, the juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of mushi-oom ketchup, and pepper and- salt to taste. Let all simmer together for a few minutes, then serve in a hot dish -w-ith .sippets of toast. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or foiu- persons. Australian Beef, Curried. Melt a l iecc of butter the size of a large egg in a saucepan, and place in it half a Spanish onion .sliced. Fry it to a light brown; then add a soui' apple, finely minced, and a cupful of nicely-tiavourcd stock. Work in very smoothly a table-spoonful of curry paste. Let all boil together, stining all the time, for three or four minutes, press the sauce through a sieve, and add square pieces of Australian beef dredged with flour. Simmer five nunutes longer, during which time the meat must be covered with the gi'avy. Serve - -ith a border of boiled rice round the flish, and the meat and gravy in the middle. Time to prepare, ten minutes. Allow the contents of a two-pound tin for six people. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Australian Beef Mould. Prepare one pound of beef in the same way as for rissoles, omitting the egg and bread-crumbs. Put it into a well-oiled mould, tie it in a cloth, and steam it for an hour. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour good gravy round it. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Australian Beef Pie. Cut the meat into pieces about the size of a walnut and j Lay them in a pie-dish, with pepper, salt, and a little nicely-flavoured stock. Cover the whole with mashed potatoes about an inch and a half in thiclvness, and brown in a good oven. Time to brown, twenty minutes. A pie made -n-ith two pounds of meat is sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Australian Beef Pie (another way). Stew a pound of fresh meat until tender. Place it in a pie-dish with the gravy in which it was stewed, a pound of Australian beef, and the contents of a tin of oysters. Place them in layers, cover with a light crust, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Australian Beef Bissoles. Mince finely one pound of Australian beef and half a pound of bread-crumbs. Mix thoroughly with it a quarter of a pound of di-ipping, a little salt, a rather plentiful supply of pepper, and one egg well beaten. Roll into pats, dip them in egg and bread, and fry in boiling oil or lard until they are nicely browned. SerA-e in a dish with a little good gravj round them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for foiu' persons. Australian Beef, Roast. Take off the fat and gravy, tie the solid meat from a four-pound tin tightly together with tapes, flour it well, and hang it befoi'e a brisk fire for half an horn-, basting it well with the fat and gravy wliich was taken from it. Poui- off the dripping, and make gravy in the usual way. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 2s. -id. Australian Beef and Jelly. (Imitation calf's head.) Soak an ounce of the best gelatine in half a pint of cold water for twenty minutes. Add to this half a pint of nicelyflavom-ed stock, a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a glass of white v,-ine. Put it on the fire, stir it until the gelatine is dissolved, and clear off with wliite of egg (see Aspic Jelly). Place a little of the jelly at the bottom of a damp mould. Let it set, then cut two hard-boiled eggs into rings, tUamonds, or any ornamental devices ; place them on the jelly, and nearly fill the mould -with pieces of Australian beef or mutton. Do not pack it tightly, but leave space for the jelly to run in between. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley over it, then fill up the mould -with the remainder of the jelly. Tmn it out when cold. This is a nice breakfast or supper dish. Tinie, five or six hours. Australian Beef and Macaroni. Put four ounces of macaroni into sufficient boiling water, and let it stew until tender. Mince finely two pounds of Australian beef, flavour it with salt, pepper, and a little powdered cinnamon. Make it quite hot, moistening it with a cupful of nicely-flavoured stock; lay it on a roimd of toast, with the macaroni over it, and serve with hot mashed potatoes. Time to boil the macaroni, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Australian Beef and Mushrooms (delicious). Take half a pint of mushroom buttons, pare them, cut the ends off the stalks, and place them in cold water. Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, put the mushrooms into it, with a little pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon. Let them simmer gently until tender ; then add a cupful of nicelyflavoured stock, and put with them one pound of Australian beef, cut into square pieces about AXIS (39) BAG the size of a walnut, and thickly dredged with flour. Let it simmer slowly, being- careful that it does not burn, and serve as hot as possible, with sippets round the dish. Time to stew the mut hrooms, twenty-live minutes ; - dth the meat, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or live persons. Australian Haricot Beef. Put a pint of haricot beans into sufficient cold water to cover them, and let them soak until the next day. Drain them, and boil them in two quarts of water for a couple of hours; then poui- the water from them, and place them by the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan off, to dry. Shake in with them a lump of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it two onions thinly sliced until nicely and lightly browned. Work in very smootlily a table- spoonful of ground rice, a breakfast-cupful of good stock, one scraped carrot, one tui-nip chopped small, one table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, a -waneglassful of port wine, and a little pepper and salt. Let all simmer gently for half an horn-. Take one pound of nice square pieces of Australian beef, di-edge them with flour, and put them into the gravy for a few minutes. Put the hot haricot beans round the dish, the beef and gravy in the middle, and serve. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 3d., without the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Australian Irish Stew. Simmer three large onions in. a pint and a half of nicelyflavoured stock until neai-ly tender ; add pepper and salt, then put with them two dozen large potatoes. Let these stew softly imtil nearly cooked, when the contents of a two-pound tin of Australian mutton, cut into square pieces, may be added. Let it simmer five minutes longer, and serve on a hot dish. Time, altogether about one hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. Australian Meat and Tomatoes. Scald a dozen tomatoes and place them in a stewpan with a little salt and three ounces of butter. Let them stew very gently till tender. Then heat the contents of a two-pound tin of Australian beef. Place it on a hot dish, and the tomatoes round it, and serve with mashed potatoes. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Time to stew the tomatoes, half an hour ; to wann the meat, ten minutes. Australian Mutton. Nearly all the recipes which have been given for Australian beef will apply to Australian mutton. Australian Mutton, Boiled, and Caper Sauce. Make half a pint of caper sauce. Take the top off a tia of mutton, and place it in a saucepan with boilingwater, but do not_ let the water be high enough for any to enter the tin. Let it become thoroughly heated, then titm it on a dish, and serve it -with turnips, caiTots, potatoes, and the sauce. Time, quarter of an hour to heat the mutton. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Australian Mutton and Stewed ?Carrots. Scrape half a dozen carrots, boU them imtil tender, draiu and choj) them into small pieces. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg iu a saucepan, stir smoothly into it a table-spoonful of fioiu- ; add a cupful of milk, a table-spoonful of boiled and chopped parsley, the carrots, a little grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Let all simmer together for a few minutes. Put ra one pound of mutton, let it get hot, then servo in a hot dish. Time, half an houi". Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for thi-ee persons. Australian Potted Meat. Mince very finely the lean part of the meat, remove the skinny parts, and flavour rather highly with pepper, salt, and a little powdered allspice. Pound it in a mortar, adding- from time to time a little oiled butter, until It is quite smooth. Press it iuto pots, and pom- a little clarified butter over the top of each pot. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Allow one pound for five persons. Probable cost, 9d. Austrian Pudding. Mix one poimd of flour with, a quarter of a pound of finely-shred suet. Add a pinch of salt, a heaped teaspoonful of baking-powder, a table -spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, and a table-spoonful of moist sugar. Mix a large breakfast-cupfid of lukcwai-m milk with a cupful of good treacle ; stir it into the floui-, poui- all iato a well-oiled mould, and tie it in a floured cloth. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, three hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 8d. Austrian Puffs.- Pound tliree ounces of almonds in a mortar, with a little rose-water. When reduced to a paste, add thi-ee tablespoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, thi-ee ounces of butter melted, .but not hot, thi-ee table- spoonfuls of floui-, and a cupful of new milk or cream. Beat all thoroughly together, well oil the pattypans, and half fill them. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a dozen puffs. B Baba with Raisins. Mix half an ounce of German yeast and four ounces of sifted flour with warm water to a soft dough, and piit it near the fire to rise. Rub twelve ounces of butter into twelve ounces of flour, work it fnto a smooth paste with eight well-beaten eggs, one ounce of pounded sugar, and a little salt. When the i aste is ready and the sponge s\ifficiently risen, blend them well together aiMi mix in two ounces of finely -minced candied citronpeel, two ounces of well-dried cuiTants, and three ounces of stoned raisins. Butter a mould fill it about half full, and allow it to rise until it is nearly at the top, when it may be baked at once in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for a three-pint mould. Bachelor's Beef {see Beef, Bachelor's). Bachelor's Broiler. This pan, which was intended by the inventor, Captain Warren, for the use of bachelors v -ho are occasionally compelled to cook their o-wn meat, BAG (40) BAG it not only admirably adapted for its special purpose, but may also be used with advantage in domestic cookery. In appearance it resembles a sort of double saute pan, one pai-t of which acts as a lid to the other. The inside is fluted, so that there is little danger of the meat sticking to the bottom, and as there is a handle to each part, and the two can be fixed securely together, the meat can bo tiu-ned to either side without its being necessary to remove the lid, and so allow the heat to escape. The advantages which may be gained from using this pan are obvious. There is little danger that the meat will either be burned or smoked, and the closely-fitting lid so economises the heat that even with a moderate amount of fuel despatch is easily attained. Chops, steaks, omelets, and fish may aU be cooked in this pan. Price 3s. 6d. and 4s. 6d. Bachelor's Pudding. Beat up three eggs and add them, \\'ith a flavouring of essence of lemon and grated nutmeg, to four ounces each of finely-minced apples, cuiTants, grated bread-crumbs, and two ounces of sugar. Mix thoroughly and boil in a buttered mould for three hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufiicient for four persons. Bacon, Boiled. Put the piece of bacon to be boiled into the pot with sufficient cold water to cover it. AUow it very gradually to come to a boil, removing all scum as it arises, and di-aw it aside to simmer until thoroughly done ; then pull off the skin and serve with bread-crumbs over. the top. Time to boil two pounds, one hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Bacon, Boiled, To Warm. Many people think that bacon once boiled must be eaten cold, but the following mode will showthat ;t is easy to make it an agreeable and also an economical breakfast dish. Cut it into thin slices, sprinkle each slice with fine bread-crumbs, with which a very little cayenne has been mixed, and toast quickly before the fire. A common wire toaster that can be turned without dL placing the bacon answers best. Bacon Broiled. Cut streaked bacon into thin slices and lay tlacm on a gi'idiron over the fire ; turn repeatedly until of a light brown colour, and serve hot. Time to boil, three to four minutes. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Bacon Gheeks, To Pickle. To about sixteen pounds of meat, take of salt and sugar each one pound, and one ounce of saltpetre thoroughly blended together; sprinkle the cheeks well with salt, let'them lie till next day, then di-ain well, and rub in t ie above ingredients. Turn and rub often, and in three weeks or a month, or less, they will be fit for use. Probable cost of pickle, 4 d. Bacon Sauce. Make a mixture of a spoonful of flour and a little water ; add to it vinegar and water in equal parts (one teacupful) , and the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Cut a quarter of a pound of rather fat bacon into pieces the size of large peas, and fry them in a stewpan till they are of a pale brown colour. Add salt and jDcpper to taste, pour the mixture over them, and stir till thick. As this sauce is to be used cold allow for it, and do not make it too thick to pour. Probable cost, 6d. Bacon, Toasted. Take thin slices of bacon, place them on the pins of an ordinary toaster; turn as requii-ed. They are more delicate if held on a fork before the fire, and if placed between the common wire toasters they can be easily tui-ncd when one side is browned. Fat bacon should be cut tolerably thick for toasting or grilling, lean bacon somewhat thinner. Sei- -e on a hot dish. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Bacon, To Gure and Keep free from Rust (CoiiBETT's Eecipe). William Cobbett, in his Rural Economy, gives the following method of curing bacon. Practical persons highly recommend it: Take two sides or flitches of bacon, i-ub the insides ?with salt, then place one on the other, the flesh-side uppermost, in a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine ; for to have sweet and flne bacon the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it the objectionable taste that barrel and sea-pork have. Every one knows how dift'erent is the taste of fresh di-y salt from that of salt in a dissolved state ; therefore, change the salt often once in fom- or five days let it melt and sink in, but not lie too long ; change the flitches every ten days ; put that at bottom which was flrst on the top. This mode will cost a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode, but without it the bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. The time required in making the flitches suificiently salt depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time for a thick than a tliin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather, or in a dry than in a damp place ; but for the flitches of a hog of seven or eight stones, in weather not veiy diy or damp, about six weeks may do ; and as the flitches should be fat, it receives little injury from over salting. Bacon, To Gut up a Pig for. In a pig of fair size, the chine, which is excellent for roasting or boiling, is cut from between the sides or flitches as showTi in the diagram ; but if the pig is small the flitches should be di\'ided do' Ti SECTIONAL DIAGRAM OP BACON PIG. The Chine. b The Head. c The Leg. D The FUtch. '.: .e The Shoulder. the chine. The shordders may be left attached to the sides, or separated according to the size of the pig. The legs are made into hams, and the sides form what is bacon proper. The head or cheek is either boiled, collared, or pickled. The inner fat is melted for lard ; aad the pieces cut off in trimming the joints are used for sausages, pies, brawn, '.and other purposes { ce Bra- Ti, Ham, Lard, Pig's Cheek, &c., Pork). BAG (41) BAG Bacon, To Smoke. Bacon and hams may be smoked at home by being hung np in the chimney of a fire in which wood only is burnt. Fir or deal must not be used. The best is oak, and its sawdust, if it can be procured. But the operation is best because moi'e slowly and uniformly performed in buildings specially constructed for the pui-pose. The Westphalian hams, principally cm'ed at Hamburg, are smoked in extensive chambers in the upper storeys of high buildings. The smoke is conveyed to these rooms through tubes from fires in the cellar. The vapour is condensed and the heat absorbed ; so that the smoke, when it reaches the meat, is ilry and cool, and communicates a flavour far superior to that obtained by the common method. Bacon and Beans. Put two poimds of good tender bacon into a pan with cold water, nearly full. When it has boiled over one hour add a quart of shelled broad beans, and boil till tender. Take off the skin from the bacon, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the top of it, and serve with the beans imder, and fried parsley as a garnish round the dish. Smoked bacon should be di'essed separately and placed on the beans when ready. Probable cost of bacon, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Bacon and. Beans (another way). Windsor, or broad beans, are rather indigestible if old. Throw some young beans, freshly shelled, into boiling water with a little salt. When the skin begins to shrivel drain them through a colander, and serve with parsley and butter. Allien the beans are old the outside skins will come off easily if boiled for half an hour. The bacon should bo boiled separately {see Boiled Bacon), and placed on the top of the beans. Time to boil the beans, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. i er peck. Bacon and Bread Fricadelle. Lay half a pound of bacon in rashers between slices of crumb of bread of the same size, press them together and dip them into a batter of egg, milk, and flour, and fry them from eight to ten minutes over a moderate fire. Garnish with parsley or serve with a sharp sauce. Proliable cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Bacon and Calf's Liver. The most economical way to prepare this is to fry the bacon first and make the fat serve for the "liver, which, as well as the bacon, should be cut into thin slices. Fry the bacon, and remove it as soon as it is done enough to a hot dish before the fire ; flour and pepper, the liver, and place it in the pan; turn f qucntly until done, then placs a slice of bacon on each slice of liver. I-¦r.ke a gravj- by pouring off the fat and crcdging a little flour into the pan, pour in enough water to supply the quantity of gravy desired, add a table-spoonful of lemon- juice, Ijoil and pour upon the dish. Garnish with forcemeat or slices of lemon. Time, from five to ten minutes. Cc.st, bacon. Is., liver, 1 Od. per pound. Bacon and. Eggs. Place nicoly-cut slices ot streaked bacon, fron.v hich uhcrind has been cut off to prevent it from cuiding up, into a cold pan over a slow fire ; turn frequently and serve with eggs, which may he poached or fried, and laid on the bacon. "Time, three or four 1 minutes. Bacon, Is. per pound. Bacon and Eggs, or Ham or Sausage and Eggs. This may be called a " country I dish." In Devonshire and Cornwall it is the standing one when all others fail. A nice dish of bacon and eggs is to be had at every waysdc house. It too often happens that this very plain repast "is indifferently cooked, 1 en the Ijacon or ham is fried see that the fat be quite free from biim before the eggs are slipped into it ; baste them with the fat, trim them and drain the grease before dishing. Sausages should b3 slowly dressed, or they are apt to burst, and so spoil the appearance of a savoury meal. Serve with mashed potatoes round the dish. Time, about five minutes. Probable cost of bacon, lOd. to Is. per pound; sausages, lOd, per pound. Bacon or Ham Omelet. Beat six eggs, and add a small tea-spoonful of flour mixed Avith a table-spoonful of milk or water, and pepper and salt to taste. Mince half a pound of cold boiled bacon or ham, and stir it in wdth the egg. Dissolve a good piece of butter or fat in the omelet-pan and pour in the omelet. OMELET-PAN. Shake the pan while dressing. In three or four minutes the sides may be folded over, and the o'. elet turned out on a hot dish, or taken up with a flat spoon. Some cooks prefer to put the bacon or ham in the middle and fold the sides over it. This kind of omelet may be made with a variety of ingredients : cold meat, kidney, green-peas, asparagus tops, small mushrooms, oysters, and lobster. Time, from three to four minutes. Probable cost, about Is. with bacon. Sufficient for three or four persons. Bacon or Ham, To Cure (Devonshire way) . Draw away all the slime and blood from two hams by rubbing them well with salt for tw? days before they are put into the pickle. Drain them, lay them in a pan, and pour over them boiling hot the following ingredients : two pounds of treacle, two ounces of saltpetre, one pound of common sait, and one pint of good vinegar; turn and baste them every day for a month, then drain and smoke. Time to salt, one month. Probable cost of pickle. Is. Suflicient for a ham of sixteen poimds weight. Bacon or Ham, To Cure (Wiltshire way). The excellence of bacon depends to a great dcgi-ec upon the care with which BAI (42) BAK the meat is drained from blood and slime before it is salted. The amount of salt used is not so important if this be well attended to, as ?s\ill be seen by the Wiltshire mode. The quantity of salt for a whole pig is one pound and a half of bay salt, and one pound of common salt to six ounces of saltpetre, and one pound and a half of the coarsest brown sugar or treacle. Strew common salt over the bacon, and let it drain a day and night. Powder the bay salt and saltpetre, and mix them thoroughly with the other salt and sugar. AVhen well blended, rub each piece of bacon and lay them together in a trough. Turn every alternate day for a month. Smoke nine days. Sufficient for the flitches of one i)ig of ten or twelve stones. Bain Marie Pan. The Bain Marie is a shallow vessel generally made of copper, which is used for keeping sauces, stews, &c., hot when they are already sufficietitly cooked, and it is not convenient that they should be immediately served. It will be found most valuable in those families where regularity and punctuality in meals cannot be depended upon, as it affords the best means of keeping dishes hot without destroying their flavour or burning them. "When it is to be used the Bain Marie should be filled with boiling water, and the pans containing the sar.oes or entrees should be put into it closely covered. It should then be put upon a hot plate or by the side of the fire, to keep up the heat of the water without allowing it to boil, and should there remain until the dishes are wanted. The principle of the Bain Jlarie may be adopted for keeping sauces and gravies warm when a proj er pan is not at hand. Instead of retaining the compounds slowly simmering by the side of the fire in the pan in which it was made, by which means it would in all probability be either smoked, burnt, or rendered flavourless, put it into a basin or jar, cover it closely and place it in a pan of boiling water. If the water is allowed to boil the sauce or grcLvj will become too thick. Price of the Bain jMarie : Block tin, with copper pan, soup pot, and glaze pot stewpans, ?2 15s. Strong copper from ?7 10s. to ?10 5s. Bake, To. Baking is a most convenient, economical, and satisfactory mode of cooking certain dishes to which it is suited, otherwise it is most unsatisfactory and unprofitable. For jjastry, cakes, and various puddings an oven is indispensable, and many meat dishes are as well cooked in it as before the fire. Amongst these may be mentioned the following : a hare, a leg of pork, a breast or fillet of veal, a goose, a duck, a sucking- j)ig, a shoxilder of mutton and potatoes, and many kinds of fish. Gravies, too, soups, beef-tea, and stock for calf's foot jelly may be advantageously cooked in a slow oven, if put into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, tod ? allowed to remain long enough. There is, however, no doubt that ordinary joints of meat, if baked in the oven, have a peculiar taste which is not palatable, and which is doubtless caused by the fact that the fmnes v hich arise in cooking are not carried off as they are when the meat is roasted. It has been said that meat loses less in weight and more in flavour by baking than by any other mode. A little extra seasoning should therefore be added if a dish is to be cooked in this way. A baking-dish ought to be deep enough to cover the joint to the extent of an inch, and thus keep the juices from drying up. If the oven be very hot, cover the meat vnth a piece of white paper well greased, and take it off in time to let the outside brown before serving. It is well to adopt this plan with large pies and cakes also, so that they may not be browned before they are suiEciently cooked, remembering only to let the pastry in pies set before the paper is put on. Pastry requu'cs a tolerably quick oven to prevent its becoming heavy. If too quick, however, the steam cannot escape. All largo cakes should bo baked in a moderate oven, or the outside will be hard before the middle is ready. In order to ascertain whether these are sufficiently cooked put a skewer or knitting-needle into the middle, and if when this is drawn out any moistm-e adheres to it the cake must be baked longer. All light cakes, such as sponge-cakes, cheesecakes, &c., should be put into a brisk oven until they have risen. The heat may then go do\ l a little. Never open the door of an oven in which anything is being cooked in order to lessen the heat ; rather decrease the fire. Baker's B-oIIs, American. Well diy two pounds of flour. Add two spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt, and a piece of saleratus, about the size of a bean, dissolved in water. Mix all lightly together with a pint of milk and water; knead it well and set it on the hearth to rise, covering the bowl in which the dough is placed with a towsl. Then make it up into about twelve rolls. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, quarter of a hour. Sufficient for twelve rolls. Probable cost, 6d. Bakewell Pudding. Mix a pint of milk with the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten separately. Add three ounces of finely-sifted sugar, three ounces of butter, which should be first melted, and one ounce of well-pounded almonds. Lay three-quarters of a pint of breadcrumbs in a dish with a little preserved fruit over, and fill up with the mixture. Bake one hcur in a moderate oven. Probable cost, about Is. ed. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bakewell Pudding (another way). Line a dish with puft'-paste, and lay the preserve as in the previous BakeweU pudding. Then mix equal weights (three ounces) of pounded ahnonds, bread-crumbs, sugar, and melted butter, with the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and a little nutmeg and lemon. BAK (43) BAB v- tir all together, and place it over the preSoi've. Bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for c!. small dish. Bakeweil Pudding, Ricli. Line a tart tlish with puff-paste, lay on it any land of jjreserved fruit ; get ready a quartc: of a pound of melted butter, six ounces of fineiy-sifted sugar, Cad one ounce of almonds ; add these ingredients to five yolks and two wliites of eggs which have been thoroughly well beaten. Mix all together and fill up the dish. Bake carefully for one hour in a moderate oven. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Baking Powders are now so wcU and frequently prepared by good makers, and can be bonght readily in large or small packets, that it is almost needless to give instructions for making them. For the benefit of those, however, who prefer home-made preparations, the following recipe is given, and will be found both excellent and economic : Crush two ounces of tartaric acid to a fine powder, and mix with it two ounces of carbonate of soda, and a quarter ?of a pound of gTound rice. Put the mixture into a tin box and store it in a dry place. When wanted, use a heaped tea-spoonful of the powder vi-ith each pound of material. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Balnamoon Skink {see Irish Soup) . Banbury Cakes. These rich well-known cakes axe prepared from a mince called Banbuiy meat, made with the following ingredients : half a pound of butter beaten to a cream, half ?a pound of lemon and orange-peel ciit up fine, one pound of cuiTants, half an ounce of cinnamon, two and a half ounces of allspice. Mix all thoroughly, and keep it in a covered jar for use. The paste for these buns shoidd be tolerably rich, rolled out thin, and cut into rounds or squares. To a layer of the mince, put on one round, cover over with another. Flatten with the hand, and moisten the edges with white of egg to make them adhere. Before putting into the oven brush the cakes over with the froth of eggs and sugar. They will take fifteen minutes to bake, and may be eaten hot or cold. Barbel. This fish deserves very little notice. When cooked it is poor and woolly. The best method is to score and soak it in oil for half an horn-, sprinlcle with salt and pepper, and broil each side from eight to ten minutes over a moderate fire. Serve on a hot dish with Maitre d'llotel butter. Barberries, To Candy. Take some preserved barberries, wash them in wai-m water to cleanse them from the syrup, and cover with dry finely-powdered sugar. Put them quickly into a moderately-heated oven, keeping them well sprinkled with sugar, and turning frequently. Barberries, To Dry, in Bunches. Take fine bimches and hang them for a quarter of an hour in a vessel of boiling water ; remove them carefully without bruising, and simmer ten minutes in a boiling syrup made with two pounds of sugar and a pint of water ; then draw the syrup from the fire, and let the bunches stay in it for several hours. Then hang them up to drain and dry. Kemove when sufficiently dry and put away with care. Barberries may be had without stones, but should there be any they must be removed before commencing to dry them. Cost of berries, 4d. to 5d. per pint. Barberries, To Pickle, for Garnishing. Gather the clusters before they are fully ripe ; carefully pick off any unsound or very ripe berries, and lay the remainder in bottles. Cover them with a strong brine, made by boiling a quarter of a pound of salt with each pint of water, and add a small nut of alum to the whole. The brine must not be put over the fruit until it is quite cold. Store the bottle in a cool, diy place, and examine them occasionally. If at any time a scum should be observed on the surface, pour off the liquid, and put freshly-boiled brine in its place, made not qidtc so salt. Keep the jars closely covered. Tune to boil the brine, ten minutes. Probable cost of barberries, 4d. to od. per pint. ' Barberries, To Preserve. To every two pounds of fruit take four- and a half poimds of powdered loaf sugar, throw some of it over the barberries to be preserved, and with the remainder make a strong sp'up in the proportion of a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Put the barberries into it, and make them boil as quickly as possible, that they may not lose colour ; then fill the jars for use. Probable cost, 4d. to 5d. per pint. Barberry Cream. Tliis pleasant sharp cream is made by mixing one pint of cream, half a pint of barberry jelly, and half an ounce of isinglass. Stir over a slow fire imtil the isinglass is dissolved. When removed from the fii-e add a Little cochineal, if required. Sweeten to taste, beat to a froth, and pour into a mould to set. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for a large mould. Barberry Jam. Take equal quantities of barberries and good finely-pounded sugar; heat gently and boil together ten minutes. Take off the scum, and put it into pots, tied down with thick paper. Probable cost of barberries, from 4d. to 5d. per pint. Barberry Jelly. The fruit should be quite ripe. Strip the berries, wash them in clear spring water, and put them into a jar with only the water that clings to them. Place the jar in a vessel of boiling water ; cover the top of the jar, and in one hour they will be fit to strain. To every pound of juice put one pound and a quarter of sugar; boil quickly five minutes. Probable cost of barberries, 4d. to 5d. per pint. Barberry Marmalade. Take one pound of nice ripe barberries ; boil, but do not crush them, in a quarter of a pint of cold water. "WTien they are sufficiently soft remove them from the pan, and use the water, with enough fresh, to make a pint of syrup. Boil it with a pound and a half of sugar ; then put in the fruit and boil for fifteen miButes. Probable cost, 4d. to 5d. per pint. BAR (44) BAT Barberry Syrup for lee. lako a syrup with uue pound of good sugar and a pint of water, boiling it and removing the sciun, for twenty minutes. Put in half a pound of fine ripe barberries and boil ten minutes. Let it get cold, and bottle to use when i e uii-ed. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pint. Barberry Water lee. Squeeze the juice from half a dozen lemons and an orange. Eub off the rind of three lemons on lumps of sugar. Mix these with a pint of clarified sugar, a half pint of water, and enough barbeiTy syrup to flavour. Strain and freeze, or use lemon water ice, and add sja-up and coloiir to taste. Time, twenty-five minutes to freeze. Sufficient for one quart. Barley Gruel. The colour and taste of gruel is much improved by washing the seeds and throwing off the first water after it has boiled a few minutes. Boil three ounces of pearl barley in a pint of water for ten minutes, then throw it off and put to it two quarts of boiling water. When reduced one half it will be sufficiently boiled. Strain, add sugar, lemonpeel, or wine to taste, and simmer for a few. minutes. Barley Meal Seones. The preparation of these wholesome cakes is a very simple process. The barley meal, with the addition of salt to taste, should be mixed with hot milk till it forms a thick paste. EoU out thin and cut into scones. Bake in a quick oven or on a griddle over a bright fire. They should be buttered and eaten hot. Barley Soup or Broth. Put two sheeps' heads, or two or three pounds of shin of beef, in a gallon of water. Add a tea-cupful of pearl barley, thi-ee large onions cut small, a small bunch of parsley, a few potatoes sliced, a little thjrme, and pepper and salt to taste. Simmer gently for three or four hours, and frequently stir it to prevent the meat from burning. It should not be allowed to boil. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Barley Sugar. Dissolve lump sugar, boil and skim it until it is crisp and clear, and no scum rises ; test the crispness by di-opping some into cold water. Flavour with lemon- juice or essence of lemon. Pour the sugar on a slate, stone, or marble slab, which has been rubbed over with butter or salad-oil ; cut it into strips before it is cold, and twist. If marked wdth a knife it will break easily, and may be made into any form. Time, ten to fifteen minutes. Sugar, 4d. per pound. Barley Sugar Drops. Prepare as directed for barley sugar in preceding recipe, but let the syrup fall in drops on the marble slab, and when cold throw pounded sugar over tlicm to dry up any moisture. Barley Water. Take two ounces of pearl barley, wash it well, and boil for ten minutes in a httle water to clear it. When drained put to it five pints of boiling water, and let it boil until reduced to one half. Then strain for use. An excellent pectoral drink is made by boiling the barley as above, and adding tlie followingingredients : half an ounce of licorice root, sliced and well bruised; two ounces of f;g.3, the same of raisins, stoned ; distilled water, (me pint, to one quart of the prepared barley water. Let aU boil till the liquid is reduced to two pints, then strain for use. If used freely thispreparation will be found very efficacious in cases of inflammatory attacks of the chest, coughs, &c. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. Barm, To Make. To an oiance of isinglass dissolved in warm water mix half a pound of the best flour. Take two ounces of hops, and boil in a quart of water till it is reduced one half, then stii- altogether in a gallon and a half of warm water and a very small quantity of barm, as made by brewers of it, and put in a warm place for two days. Probable cost. Is. fef. Basket, Chantilly. This basket is pretty for the supper table, and very easily put together. Make a cement of sugar boiled to crackhng height, or a syrup boiled with white of egg ; dip the edge of sc me macaroons int? CHANTILLY BASKET it, and line a mould with them, taking carethat the edges of the macaroons touch each other. When wanted take it out of the mould, fill it with whipped cream, and it is then ready for table. Time, two or thi-ee hours to set. Cost for quart mould, exclusive of cream. Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bath Buns. Put one pound of flour into a pan, and make a hole in the centre, into which pour one table-spoonful of yeast and 'one cupful of milk, slightly warmed. Mix these together with a httle of the flour, and leave it near the fire to rise. Dissolve six ounces of butter, and beat up four eggs ; add this to the remaining flour, and mix all together. It must be again allowed to rise ; and when it has ivell risen, which -will be in about an hour, put small balls of this mixture on a well-greased tin cake plate two or three inches apart. Tliis dough being light, it will fall ifeto the required shape. Sprinkle loaf sugar on the top, or brush them over with a mixture of egg and milk. Five or six caraway comfits and lemon or citron-peel may be added. Bake in a moderate oven. Bath Chap, To Cook. The excellence of tliis well-prepared meat depends greatly on the soaking and boiliugk If this be not properly attended to, it will be hard and unsatisfactory. Lay it in a pail of cold water, skin do-wnwards, and let it remain one night. Scrub the chap with a small brush to cleanse it ; put BAT (45 ) BAT li into plenty of cold water to boil; make it iiuc to a boil quickly, and then di-aw the pan ;:sidc to simmer, tliice hours for a small chap, lour for a large one. Sldn, and garnish with any boiled green vegetable. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Bath Cream Cheese. To any quantity ?of milk, warm from the cow, add a third of the ?quantity of warm water, a jiint of cream, and about two table-spoonfuls of rennet to each three gallons of milk ; cover it over and let it stand. When turned, break the curd -with the hand, and put it in a cheese-cloth on a sieve to drain off the whey ; take it out, wash it in cold springwater, and again drain. This must be done three times ; the third and last time, in order to get rid of the whey effectually, hot water should be used, and the curd should then be drained and put into the press for six or eight hours. Probable cost of the milk and cream, 2s. per gallon. Batley Pudding. JMix three ounces of iinely-powdered sugar with the yolks of three oggs and the white of one, well beaten. Blanch and pound fifteen aknonds, and add them to the ?eggs with a table-spoonful of brandy. Boil two ounces of groirnd rice with half a pint of cream; let it stand to cool, then stir in two ounces of ?clarified butter, and mix all together. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Batter. This signifies a mixture of flouitind milk or water. The addition of eggs, yeast, spirits, &c., depends on the various uses to which it is applied. Many novel, well- flavoured batters maybe made by the introduction of liqueurs, .such as ratafia, noyeau, maraschino, or brandy; ibut they should lie used - -ith judg-mcnt, and only enough to gi ?e the desired ilavoiu-. Small slices of meat, cold cooked vegetables, such as carrots and celery, joints of fowl, &c., are all excellent fried in butter, and many seemingly useless remnants may be dressed again in this } - way, in a pleasing shape, and used to ornament and accompany other dishes. Batter Cakes of Indian Meal. Make o, batter by mixing gradually one quart of boiling water with the same quantity of meal ; add a little salt and leave it until nearly cold. Add a little yeast, form into cakes, and prepare in the usual way, that is to say, fried over a clear quick fire. The yolk of an egg is a great improvement to the cakes. Time to fry each cake, five or six nunutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. -Sufficient for six or seven persons. Batter, French. Take twelve ounces of the best flour, and two ounces of butter, and mix them together, after the butter is melted, by pouring over it about a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and agaia cool it by means of three-quarters of a pint of cold water. jNIix it i:radually and smoothly. A very little pinch if salt must be put if for fruit, iDut it will reijuire more if the fritters jare savourj' ones. If 'lie batter be too thick, put a little more water, I nd when aU is ready beat up the whites of two ggs to a froth, and stir into the batter. This forms an excellent batter for apple, peach, or orange fritters. Probable cost, 6d. Batter for Frying Vegetables. To four oimces of flour add as much milk or water as v ill make a thick batter. Stir into it half a wine-glassful of br:indy and an egg, white and j'olk, beaten to a froth. Let it rest in a warm place for an houi', when it will be fit for use. Batter Fritters. Make a batter according to recipe given for batter pudding. When ready, peel, core, and mince some apples, or if preferred, a few currants may be picked and thrown into the batter. The addition of a little suet to the apples is an impi-ovement, but it must be very judiciously used, as too much will make the fritters greasy. They should be made small. A large table-spoonful of batter is sufficient. Fry in boiling dripping, and serve with powdered sugar over them. Probable cost, 9d. Time to frv, eight to ten minutes. Sufficient for six persons. Batter, Italian, Fried. Mix and boat up two eggs with haH a pint of French wine or cider and a little orange-flower water. Add this, with two table-spoonfuls of the best Lucca oil, to three-quarters of a pound of flour and a teaspoonful of salt. Blend the batter with a spoon until it is like a smooth cream. It shoidd be made an hour or two before wanted, and the frothed whites of two or three eggs should be lightly added to it at the time of use. Batter Pudding, Baked, Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat them well separately, and throw them in a basin together ; then mix them very gradually with six or eight oimces of flour, and a pinch or two of salt. Make the batter of the proper consistency by adding little more than a pint of good milk. Bake in a buttered dish for three-qu;iitci-s of an hour in a quick oven. This pudding is much improved by careful mixing. If the eggs, flour, and milk are not well blended together the pudding is often a failure. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufiieient for foui' or five persons. Batter Pudding, Baked, and Apples. Put one pound of apples peeled, quai'tered, and cored into a well-buttered dish, and throw over them enough sweet batter to fill it. Add a little pounded clove or grated lemon, and bake in a tolerably brisk oven. The apples will rise to the surface. When quite done, but before removing it from the oven, put on some small bits of butter, and sjjrinkle sugar thickly over the top. Any kind of fruit may be used for these puddings. Time to bake, one hour or more. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Batter Pudding, Boiled, Get one ounce of melted butter. JMix three table-spoonfuls of flom- with a little milk, and thin it to a proper consistency with the rest of a pint, using it very gradually, that the batter may be quite smooth. Stu- in the butter in its dissolved state, and keep mo ang the batter while tkree eggs, which ha -e been well beaten, are added. A pinch of salt must not be omitted. Put the mixture into a well-buttered basin ; tie a cloth o\er it, and put it to boil at once, or the batter will settle at the bottom. It wiU take one hoiu BEA (46) BEA and a quarter, and should be moved in the saucepan for a few minutes after it is put to hoiL Prohahle cost, 7d. Sufficient for hve or six persons. Beans, Broad or Windsor (a la Poulette). Boil one quart of young broad beans over a quick hi'e until nearly done; then put them into a stewpan with sweet herbs very finely cut, a little sugar, half a pint of stock ; pepper and salt at discretion. Before beginning to stew see that the beans are well di-ained from the water in which they were boiled. Stew until half the liquor is absorbed, and just as they are on the point of simmering beat up the yollv of an egg with a quarter of a pint of cream, and add it to them. Time, ten minutes to boil ; fifteen to stew. Probable cost, from Gd. to 8d. per peck. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Beans, Broad or Windsor, Mashed. This is the only way in which old beans may be cooked to advantage. They should be first boiled in the ordinary way fully half an hour, by which time the skins will have burst, and they may be easily removed. Mash them with the back of a wooden spoon until quite smooth, then put them back into the stewpan with a little sugar, butter, pepper, and salt. Warm up, and then press them into a buttered mould. The mould should be hot and kept hot until ready to serve ; tlien turn out. Probable cost, 6d. per peck. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beans, Broad or Windsor, To Stew. Have ready a good rich brown gravy. Cut up some small onions, cliives, and parsley; throw them into the gravy and simmer for ten minutes before the beans are put in. Sprinkle a quart of beans with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and one of sugar, mix together and put them into the gravy. Stir the beans gently over a slow fire tiU the gravy is absorbed by them. In ten minutes serve tliem up. Probable cost, 6d. a peck. Sufficient for a dish. Beans, Broad or Windsor, with Ham or Bacon. This is a very popular dish. The beans must be boiled separately an-d not with the ham. They should be young, and only shelled just before cooking. Put them into boiling- water with a , little salt, boU very quickly, and when di-ained pour melted butter over them. Place the ham on the beans. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per peck. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beans, French or Kidney. Choose fine young beans, and be careful that they are the right sort. 'The best kind are the caseknife, because they have no strings, and are consequently all eatable, and need only be bro-ken in two, not cut. Should these not be obtainable, take the youngest that can be procured : remove the tlu-ead or string that runs along the back of the pod, then cut them in a slanting direction lengthways in very thin slices, throw them into boiling water well salted, and to preserve their colour boil without the lid of the saucepan. V len tender, drain in a colander, put a small jjiece of butter and a. dash of pepper, and give the whole a shake. Somecooks add a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, but we do not think this an improvement. This dish may be varied in a great many ways, and v ith great success. Cold French beans with dil and vinegar make an excellent and refresliing salad. They may also, Avhen cooked and drained, be mixed with some good brown gravy, and served alone as a coui'se after the meat. Beans, Fi Slllch (a la Fran9aise) . Cut and boil one pound of French beans ; drain -well and put them into a stewpan over the fire to dry or absorb the moisture ; shake the pan that they may not burn. When quite free from the water add tliree ounces of fresh butter, the juice of half a lemon, pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful of good gravy. Keep shaking the ste-wpan until the beans are quite hot, and serve quickly. Time, quarter of an hoirr to boil ; ten minutes to stew. Probable cost, from 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for two persons. Beans, French (a la Maitre d'HGtel). Prepare and boil one pound of beans in the usual manner ; see that they are well drained from the water. Keep them hot, and when dry put them into a stewpan with two ounces ol" melted butter, half a tea-spoonful of chopijed parsley, a Uttle salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemonjuice. Shake the pan over a brisk fire, mb: well, and serve hot in eight minutes. Sufficient for two persohs. Beans, French (a la Proven ale) . Bro-wn, some slices of onion with oil instead of butter : make them of a light bro-wn, and add some French beans that have been prepared and boiled in the ordinary way, with chopped parsley, thyme, chives, and bay-leaf. As soon as the vegetables are done, remove them on to a dish : ]3ut a httle vinegar into the pan, boil up and thi'ow over the beans. If oil be dishked, fry the onions in butter, and add a gra-s instead of vinegar. The juice of a lemon is sometimespreferred. Beans, French, Boiled. Only the ends and stalks require to be tsiken ofl: when the beans are very young, and no mode of cooking can make very old ones eatable. Put them ac they are prepared into cold water. They are cut according to taste leng-thwise into thin strips or obliquely into a lozenge form. The strings should be drawn off with the tops and stalks when they are come to theu- proper growth. Put them into a large saucepan of boiling water, some salt and a little soda, and keep boiling very fast until tender. Time, fifteen minutes if young ; twenty to twenty-five minutes if old. Proba' lo cost, 2d. to 4(i. ]x;r pound. Beans, French (Haricots verts). Boil and drain the beans in the usual way, and put. them into a stewpan with some butter thickened with flour. Add chopped parsley, thjTne, chives, &c., and a small cupful of stock ; season to taste with salt and pepper. Stew for some time, then thicken with two eggs well beaten up -ndth a little milk or cream, and serve quickly. A little lemon- juice may also be added. Time to BEA (47) BEG stew, ten minutes. ProLablo cost, from 2(1. to ?Id. per pound. Beans, French, Omelet of. Cut up two table-spoonfuls of French beans into small pieces, and stir them into four eggs wliich have been previously beaten ; next add two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan, or any other mild cheese, and pepper and salt to taste. When thorouglily mixed, put the whole into a delicately clean omelet-pan with two (dunces of butter, and fry a pale brown. Probable cost, 9d. Time, three to five minutes. Sufficient for three or four i ersons. Beans, French, Pickled. Beans are seldom piclded alone, but are classed under the head of mixed pickles. They may be put into a jar with gherkins, cauliilowers, radish-pods, capsicums, onions, &c. As they are gathei-ed young, the strings, a bit of the stalk, and the pointed ends are left on. Cover them with a strong brine of salt and water for two days, then wipe and put them into a jar. Boil one quart of 'inegar with two ounces of peppercorns and half an ounce of mace ; pour it over hot, and when quite cold cover. The pickle will be the better if the vinegar bo re-boiled in twentyfour hom-s, and again thi'own boiling over it. Probable cost of vinegar and spice, Is. Beans, French, Pickled (another way). Thc beans should be gathered young. Place them in a strong brine of salt and water. When turning yellow, which will be in a day or two, remove them and wipe dry. Boil the vinegar ?svith a little mace, whole pepper, and ginger (two ounces of pepjDer and half an ounce each of ginger and mace to each quart of vinegar) ; pour this over the beans. A small bit of alum, or a tea-spoonful of carbonate of potash, will biing back their colour. Cover them to keep in the steam and re-boil the vinegar the next day; tlu'ow over hot as before. Cover, but do not tie down until quite cold. Probable cost. Is. Sd. per quart. Beans, French , Puddingof . Slip ofE the outer shell fi'om French beans, either before or after they are boiled, and poirnd them in a mortar with pepper and salt to taste. Boil them in a buttered and well-floured cloth for half an hour. The cloth should be tied lightly to give them room to swell. This pudding loolcs better when put in a mould. Squeeze out all the v ater from the cloth, return the contents, tie and place the pudding into any shape required, press it dovv-n and let it stand a few minutes. Put a hot dish over the mould and turn out. Average cost, 6d. per peck. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beans, French, Salad of. Take cold beans which have been well di-ained from the water. Saturate them with vinegar, and let them lie in it for twenty minutes. Drain again, and add some oil, if liked, and a httle pepper and salt. Beans may be eaten with any salad sauce. Beans, French, To Stew. This is an excellent accompaniment to venison, veal, or any other cutlets. The beans should be cut, boiled. and drained according to recipe given for boiled beans. Then take a rich brown gravy, well flavoui-ed with pepper and salt, put it into a stewpan, and when hot add the beans and simmer over a slow fire. Shake the pan to prevent them from burning, and serve in fifteen minutes. The cutlets may be put in the centre, or they may be served on the beans and gravy. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Beans, French, with Gravy. Dissolve four ounces of butter in a pan, and stir into it three ounces of flour till it becomes brown and quite smooth. Mix a little gravy and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Take any quantity of this; souse and sirnxmer the beans, previously b(,)iled, for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. tcr 4d. per pound. Allov,one quart, for six or seven j)ersons. Beans, Haricot (a la Bretonne). Put some butter into a stev pan with chopped onion and a little flour. Brown, but do not blacken the butter ; pour in a little broth, or water. Stir till it is slightly thick, and season with salt and pepper. Put in the haiicots already cooked and boiled ; simmer them about twenty minutes in the broth and serve hot. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Allow one quart for six or seven porsons. Beans, Haricot, Dried. Soak the beans for twelve hom-s in soft water. Put them, when drained, into a saucepan of cold water without salt, and when half cooked change the water and replace it with wami water and a little salt. When done remove the lid to allow the beans to dry. Time to boil, about two hoiu-s. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Allow one quart for six ar seven persons. Beans, Haricot, Dried (another way). Soak one quart of haricot beans for two hours in cold water. Poirr ofi: the soaldng water; put them into two quarts of v ater with a large table-spoonful of salt. Let them simmer until soft and mealy, then drain. Put them back into the saucepan with two ounces of butter, and seasoning of pepper and salt. Shake them until the butter is well melted and the beans hot through, and serve I quickly. Time, from two to two and a half { hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quai-t. Sufficient for six or seven persons. I Beans, Haricot, Plain Boiled. i Sprinkle over one quart of haricot beans, preI viously boiled, two table-spoonfuls of chopped I ]3arslcy, and put them with two ounces of butter 1 into a stewpan. Let them get thoroughly heated ; shake the pan, and in about fifteen minutes serve in a hot vegetable dish. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Bechamel, Maigre. Lse milk and water instead of the stock made with animal juices. Blend one ounce of flour with one ounce of butter. Simmer for twenty minutes the following ingredients in one pint of milk v ith half the quantity of water and a little salt : two or three small mushrooms, a few sprigs of par.slcy, two onions, and a blade of mace. AVhen it haH EEC (48) BEE ?boiled long enough to give the desired flavour, strain and put it again into the stewpan with the flour and butter, keeping it stiir d until perfectly smooth. This should be again strained, and about half the juice of a lemon added to it. Then beat up the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of milk, pour it gradually with the rest, and stu- it over the fire. It must not boil or it will curcJ.c. Time, three-quarters o"; an hour. Cost, aboul; 6d. per pint. 1 Bechamel, or French White Sauce, j As white stock is the foundation for this Bauce it must be jjrepared first. Boil down an old fowl, two or three pounds of the knuckle of veal, and three of very lean ham, with the white parts of four carrots, two onions, one blade of mace, some wlute peppeix'orns, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and an ounce of butter, in four or five quarts of water. Cut up the fowl and veal, and put them with the ham to simmer, in a small quantity of water, till the juices are extracted ; then throw in the full quantity of v. ater, about thi-ee and a haU" quarts to the other ingredients. Let the liquid simmer from four to five hours. Skim and strain tiU clear, when it is ready for the bechamel. Mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot with a jjint of cream, and when well blended let it simmer in a carefully-cleaned pan for foiu- or five minutes. Make one pint of the stock hot and pour it to the cream ; simmer slowly for ten minutes or until it thickens. If two thick add a little stock. Time, two hours. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Bechamel, or French White Sauce (another way). Take one quart of good white stock, put it into a stew,pan with an onion, a few mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, parsley, ii, blade of mace, and a little salt ; boil till it has extracted the flavour of the herbs, and the stock is reduced to about half then strain. Put one pint of thick or double cream into a clean stewpan, mi.x the reduced stock very gradually with it, and stir all the time until it thickens over a slow fire. If the ordinary thin cream be used mix a tablebpoonful of arro-wTOot very smoothly into it, and simmer slowly five minutes before adding it to the stock. Time, about two hours. Probable cost, about Is. 2d. per pint. Bechamel, or French White Sauce (another way). To any quantity of bechamel, prepared according to pcceding recipe, add a little parsley-juice, made by pounding it in a mortar. Bring it to a boil and then simmer for a few minutes. Take it off the fire, stir in a little lemon-juice, and serve immediately, to prevent the sauce from becoming discoloured. This sauce is a valuable foundation for other sauces. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. for half a pint. Beef. Beef is considered by many the best and most wholesome, as it is certainly the most economical meat that can be purchased for family use. It is in season all the year round, though it can be had in perfection in winter only, because then the joints can be hung until the meat is quite tender. The heart, head, sweetbreads, and kidneys should always be used fresh. Ox beef is the best : the fiesh is smoothly grained and rather open ; if the animal is young it rises when pressed with the finger. The lean is of a bright red colour, and the fat v.-hit;' rather than yellow. {See Frontispiece.) Tary loan beef is always of inferior quality, whilfct very fat beef is objectionable because it is so wasteful. Heifer beef is the best for small families : the grain is closer, the colour paler, SECTIONAL DIAGRAM OF THE OX. A Enmp. B Mouse Buttock. c Leg, or Hock. D Buttock, or Kound. E Aitshboue, or Top. F Sirloin. G Fore Eibs. H Middle Kibs. I CliuckKibs. J Neck, Clod, or Sticking Piece. E Shin. L Sboulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. M Brisket. N Thin Flank. o Thick Flank. p Veiny Piece. and the fat whiter than ox beef. Bull beef is dark in colour, with a coarse grain, very little fat, and a strong, meaty smell. It should never be chosen. If beef is to be tender the joints should be hung as long as the weather will permit. In summer time they shoidd b3 examined every day, and any moisttire that may arise should be scraped off. Beef tha': 's to be roasted should not be washed unless it Js quite necessary. If any part has been touched with flies it may be :;i\ubed with a cloth which has been dipjjed in vinegar, then dried quickly. Powdered charcoal rubbed over the meat will restore it if slightly tainted. Before hanging the joints care should be taken to remove the soft cord which runs down the bone of the sirloin and ribs, and to trim oft' all BEE (49) BEE superfluous fut. An o5c i? usually out up and dressed as follows : SiitLOi.v. Prime roasting- joint. The clunnp end is the finest part, as it contains the largot portion of the undercut or fillet. Excellent steaks may bo cut from thl;:; fillet, and aie considered hy some superior to rump steak. The sirloin should be hung- as long as possible before it is cooked. Two sirloins cut together form a baron of beef. Price i)er pound. Is. to Is. Id. EuMi". Upper part or chump end roasted. Lower or silver side salted and boiled. Middle part cut into steaks. Pi-ice per pound, lid. to Is. ; steak. Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. Aitchbone. Salted and boiled or stewed, sometimes roasted. Price per pound, 7od. to 8Ad. Buttock oh Round. Boiled, stewed, or cut into steaks. The upper side if hung for a few days makes an excellent and economical roasting joint. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. lilousE Hound. Boiled or stewed. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. Veiny Piece. Steaks. Inferior in (puility to the rump. Price per pound, Ud. to ll d. Thick Fl.vnk. Fine boiling piece. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. Thin Flank. Boiled. This part is excellent when boned, rolled, and pressed. Price per pound, 8d. Leg. Stewed, and g-ood for soup. Price per pound, 4d. to 9d. Fore Ribs (five ribs). Roasted. Prime roasting part. Price per pound, lOd. to Is. Middle Ribs (four ribs). Economical roasting part. Price per pound, lOd. CiucK Ribs (three ribs). Steaks. Second quahty. Price per pound, lOd. SnouLDEU OR Lecj of Mutton Piece. Boiled or stewed. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. Brisket. Boiled or stewed. E.xcellent when salted and pressed. Price per pound, 7d. to 8d. Clod. Boiled or stewed. Used in making gravy. Price per pound, 6d. to 9d. Neck. Soups, gravies, &c. Price per pound, yd. to 8d. Smu,-. Soups and gravies. Also for stewing. I'rice per pound, 4d. to 9d. Cheeks. Brawn, soup, S:c. Price per jiound, Hd. Tail. "Soup. Stewed. Each, Is. 3d. to. 2s. 9d. Tongue. Salted and boiled. Each, 5s. to 6s. Heels. Stewed for jelly and stock. Each, 9d. to Is. I-tvER. Stewed and fried. Price per pound, 5d. Besides these there is the Pal.vte, which is stewed or fried ; the Heaut, which is stuffed and roasted ; the Sweetbiieads and I Tripe, which is cooked in various ways; and the Skiut, which makes rich gravy. Purchase the best meat and the best joints, they are the most economical in the end. The quality of beef depends on so many circumstances that the surest way to get it good is to j buy of one respectable butcher whose word i may be depended on. I'le following direc- i tions are given for the benefit of those who require them; they do not belong to any particular meats, those will be treated on in then- pi-oper places: While cooking, keep a good fire, and place the meat at some distance; from it at first. If the outside be too suddenly dried it prevents the heat penetrating, so that the inside of the joint will be uncooked. Baste often; a great deal depends on this. Inexperienced cooks think they have done all that is necessary when they have put it before the fire, and given it the prescribed time ; but witnout fiequent basting the meat will be diy and indigestible. Although the greatest caic has been taken to give coirectly the time required for cooking the various dishes, it must be remembered that it is impossible to give it exactly to suit each case, because so many circumstances tend to vary it, such as the age of the animal, the time the meat has been kept after beingkilled, the state of the weather, the cooking apparatus used, and the quality of the fuel. The average only has been taken, and this beingunderstood, common sense must make allowance for the rest. It will be an assistance to rememIjcr that freshly-killed meat requires more time than that which has been kept, and also that meat needs cooking rather longer in cold weather than in hot. Beef, Aitchbone of, Salted. Most persons roast this joint, but we think it far superior salted and boiled according to the foUoTftang recipe: Take a i)iece of beef, say ten poimds, and rub into it a mixture compound of throe-quarters of a pound of salt, one ounce of dark moist sugar, and half an ounce of saltpetre. Turn the meat each day, and ruT) the pickle well in every time. Keep it in this condition four or fi\-c days, when it will be found salt enough for most people, ''hcn wanted for use, put it into a large saucepan, with enough water to cover, bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for two hours and a half. "If," says Dr. Kitchener, "it bods too quickly at first, no art can make it tender afterwards; the slower it boils the better." Carrots, turnips, and suet-dmnplings are the proper accompaniments to this dish. The soft, marrow-like fat at the back of the joint should be eaten when it is hot, the hard fat left until the joint is served cold. The liquor in which the beef is boiled should not be thrown away, it will make excellent pcasoup. Probable cost, 7 d. to S. d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Beef, Aitchbone of. To Carve. In carving an aitchbone of beef it is necessary that it should be cut across the grain. In order to aitchbone of beef. do this the knife should follow the line from A to b in the above illustration. The meat should (50) BBS "he cut of a moderate thickness, and very evenly. Cut the lean and the fat in one slice, and if more fat is desired it should he taken horizontally from the side. Before proceeding to serve, a slice of about a quarter of an inch in thickness should be cut from the top, so that the juicy part of the meat may be obtained at once. Beef (a la Braise). Hang a rump of beef for hve or six days ; remove the bone, and lard it freely with small pieces of ham or bacon, rolled in a seasoning comjDosed of an onion minced very fine, a little garlic, thyme, parsley, peppei-, and salt. After the ham or bacon has been rolled in the seasoning, add to what is left of the latter a pint of vinegar, a pint of port wine, and a tea-spoonful of salad-oil. yteep the beef in this mixture for one night. Before cooking, wrap it in paper, and roast it on a cradle spit, basting it well all the time it is before the fii-e. Serve with brovvoi gravy thickened, and garnish with horse-radish scraped, and boiled carrots. Some cooks also add a little lemon- juice, and slices of pickled cucumber. Probable cost of beef, lid. to Is. per pound. Beef (a I'Ecarlate). Prepare a pickle according to the following instructions: Take a small quantity of sweet herbs, crushed juniperberries, basil, pepper, cloves, and saltpetre (the latter in proportion to the quantity of meat, say one ounce to every four or five pounds of beef), six ounces of salt, and two ounces of sugar. Pub this mixtiu'o into a jjiece of rump of beef, weighing five or six pounds, and put it into a salting-pan, where it should remain eight days, during which time it must be frequently turned. Soak the meat for two hours in cold water before using. Tie it up in a clean cloth, and pixt it into a stewpan, in which has been previously placed equal parts of Bui-gundy and water, with a few carrots, onions, parsley, and chives. Simmer for five or six houi-s. When cold, pour a little of the liquor it has been stev ed in round the dish, and serve. Probable cost for five pounds, 7s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Beef (a la Houssard). Eemove all bones and gristle from a piece of beef, of about four pounds weight, beat it with a rollingpin, and lard it with ham or bacon. Lay it, with a seasoning of chopped onion, pepper, and salt, into a stewpan with a tight-fitting cover, and put it into an oven, or by the side of the fire, and let it steam in its o-wti gravy. Take care that it does not burn, because, as there is no water it will be liable to do so unless carefully attended to. With a strong heat it will be ready in two or thi-ee hours, and will be found excellent. To be served with the gravy from the meat. Cost of meat, 1 Od. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beef (a la Mode), iso. 1. Any fleshy part of beef or veal will do for this dish; but, of course, the finer the meat is the better vrill be the stew. A piece of the nmijj or buttock of beef we should consider most suitable ; of veal, either the fillet or the gristly part of the breast. About six or seven pounds is the usual quantity prepared. Eub the meat well with some mixed spice, salt, and a little flour, and put it in a stewpan, into which has been previously jjlaced some thin slices of streaked bacon. As it is desirable that the bacon should not touch the bottom of the stewpan, it would be better to place a few skewers in it for the bacon to rest on. Cover the meat also with slices of bacon, some good gi'avy, about a pint and a half, and a little vinegar. Stew very gently for two hours, then add a seasoning of cloves, mace, i epper, mushi-ooms, and a dozen small onions, half roasted. Cover the saucepan tightly down, and simmer until tender. Put the meat in a deep dish, strain the gravy over it, and seiwe very hot. Should veal be used, the mushrooms should be omitted, and lemon-peel substituted. Time to sim.mer, from three to four hours. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Beef (a la Mode), No. 2. Take eight or ten pounds of beef (the rump or buttock), or the same weight of a breast of veal. Di\ide it into neat pieces of three or four ounces in weight. Put it into a large stewpan with four ounces of good beef dripping; but first make the dripping hot, and flour the meat. Add. a couple of large onions, minced very fine, . dredge flour, and stir with a wooden spoon for I about ten minutes, or until the contents of the ! pan be thick ; then pour in about one gallon of water. Do this gradually, stirring all together. Bring it to a boil; then skim, and add one drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and two bay-leaves. Set the pan where it will stew gently for about three hours. When the meat is tender, serve. Sufficient for ten or twelvc persons. Beef (a la Mode), No. 3. Make a forcemeat of a French roll steeped in milk, half a pound of chopped veal, and six oysters. Remove the bone from a rump of beef, and fill up the holewith the forcemeat. Eoast the meat before a clear fire for an hour, take it ofl: the jack, insert in the top some dried and pickled mushrooms, adding mushroom powder to the forcemeat. Put it in a stewpan with two quarts of stoclc, a large onion stuck with cloves, and two carrots cut in slices. Stew until the beef is tender. Put the meat on a dish ; thicken and strain the sauce, add to it more mushrooms, a glass of sherry, oysters, and sippets of fried bread. Pour it over the beef; garnish with a few warmed gherkins, and serve. Time to stew a piece of beef weighing five pounds, five to six hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Beef (a la Mode), No. 4. Bath Recipe. Take three pounds of beef (any part will do, but the rump is the best), cut away aU fat, and trim nicely. Take a few cloves, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, a blade of mace, and a salt-spoonful of allspice. Pound them , thoroughly, and add half a small tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, some minced sweet herbs, and shalot. Put these ingredients into a dish, previously rubbed with garlic, and cover them with vinegar. Cut fat bacon into long strips, and lard the beef, on both sides if necessary, first dipping each strip of bacon into the vinegar, and well covering them v ith the seasoning. Put BEE (51 ) BEE the meat into a baking-pan, with the remainder of the herbs and spice, a bit of butter rolled in floui', and one pint of water. Cover the toj) of the pan, and bake in an oven. When tender, strain the gravy, and serve the beef with pickles on the top. It makes an cxoeUent cold dish, but should be served hot with the gravy at first. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Beef (a la Mode), No. 5. French Eecipe. Take a large, flat stewpan, and put into it two ounces of good butter. When the butter begins to froth, add a table-spoonful of flour, and stir until the two are well mixed and of a fine golden colour. Next lay in a piece of rump of beef, or any other tender part, three poimds in weight. Fry gently, being very careful that the meat does not stick to the pan. Add by degrees a pint of rich stock, well flavoured with carrots, savouiy herbs, onions, bay-leaves, salt, and pepper. When preferred, the vegetables may be put in whole, instead of merely flavouring the gravy with them, and they look very nice when used to garnish the meat. In France, they greatly increase the quantity of vegetables by adding tomatoes, when in season, small cucumbers, muslu-ooms, and green peas. Veal dressed this way, with the addition of nev. potatoes, is excellent, and is generally preferred to beef. Time to stew, foiu- or five hours. Probable cost, -Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef (a la Mode), or Brazilian Stew. Dip some pieces of ' beef, cut from the shin, about three ounces in weight each, in vinegar, and place them in a stewpan (without any water) on a very slow fire. Let them gradually get hot. In about tkree hours it will be found that the meat has yielded sufficient gravy, and will be e.xcecdingly tender. Add a dessert-spoonful of musliroom ketchup, a tablespoonful of port or clayet, and half a tea-spoonful of brown thickening (or, failing this, a small piece of butter, about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, with a little salt and cayenne). Simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Probable cost, 7d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Beef (a la Polonaise). Mix some breadcrumbs with minced onion, a little butter, pepper, and salt. Get a piece of bsef, about four or five jDounds, beat well, and inseit the above stuffing into incisions made in the meat. These incisions should not be tlu-ough, or the forcemeat will fall out into the stewpan. Put the meat into a stewpan, with a little butter and very little water, and stew until tender. Thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening ; or, failing this, %\ath a quarter of an ounce of butter rolled in flour. Time to stew, three hours. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Beef, Australian {sec Australian Beef). _ Beef, Bachelor's. Take a nice piece of ribs, fi'om eight to ten pounds, bone and tie it securely that it may not slip; pound about half a tea-spoonful of saltpetre, mix it with a little salt and rub it wcU into the meat. The next day pour over it a boiled pickle which has been allowed to get cold. Keep it in this from six to eight days. Wash, tie in a cloth, and boil from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the weight. Bring it to the boil and then simmer only. Serve with carrots. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufifcient for eight or nine persons. Beef, Bachelor's, Stew. Take a piece of meat weighing from three to four pounds. If beef, from the rump, fillet, or buttock, or a fillet of veal of the same weight ; pepper and brown the meat in a stewpan, using a small quantity of good butter. Cut up two or three carrots into thick slices, remove the white parts of them with an apple-corer, and place them on the top of the meat. Then add thi-ee-quarters of a pint of water, and cover up tightly to simmer over a very slow fire. The main point to be observed is to keep the lid of the stewpan so closed that no steam may escape. In about three-quarters of an hour turn the meat over, but still keep the carrots on the top, and add four or five small onions, a little mushroom ketchup, and salt, and cover again tight as before. Simmer on the side of the fire for another hoiu' or more, but always observing to add a little boUing water if required. Veal may be served up with green peas, a little ham, and the juice and rind of a lemon. Time, from one hour and three-quarters to two hours. Sufficient for foxir persons. Average cost, 3s. 6d. Beef, Baked. Take about two pounds of thin slices of cold roast beef, sprinkle over them a little salt and a dust of flour ; roU them neatly up with a small portion of fat between each roU, and lay them in the bottom of a pie-dish. Slice two caiTots and a turnip and parboil them ; lay them with thinly-sliced onion and minced herbs over the meat, and proceed with another layer of beef as before till all is used up. The vegetables should be next to the paste, and should be dusted over with pepper and salt. Mix a tea- spoonful of flour with about half a pint of good gravy, free from grease, and two or three talsle-spoonf uls of ale ; put tliis into the dish and bake three-quarters of an hour, covered with mashed potatoes or a crust if preferred. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, Baron of, consists of both sides of the back, or a double sti-loin, and weighing from tliirty to one hundred jjounds, according to the size of the animal. It is always roasted, but is now rarely prepared, except on particular festive occasions at the English Court, and at great public entertainments. It is generally accompanied by a boar's head and other substantial viands. Beef, Boiled. Put the beef into vorj' hot water, bring it to a boil quickly, and allow about three hours for a piece of from twelve tO' sixteen pounds. Much care is requii-ed and some judgment to boil meat well. If it is allowed to boil fast the meat -will be hard. Simmer from the time of boiling till it is served up. Sldm the pot thoroughly, and turn the meat twice during the simmering. If vegetables are hked, carrots or turnips may be "added, but they should only be put in long enough to get them properly cooked. The liquor wlQ serve for pea-soup, and is useful to the cook in BEE (52) EE various ways ; the vegetables boiled in it will have greatly improved the flavour. The following American recipe for boiling salted meat will be amusing and instructive : Boiling Salted Meat. A well known American writer says, " I was once informed by an old patron how he and his wife learned to cook corned beef." Hs :;aid, " that having to fm-nish a hasty meal for hhnself and his men, he decided upon cooking a piece of corned beef. He procured a good-sized piece, and it was late before it began to boil. Having to watch the pot himself, after a hard day's work, he resolved to have a nap, leaving the pot over a slow fire, and thinking he would be sure to wake ujj before it was done. A\Tien he awoke he found that his beef must have simmered slowly until the fire went out. Expecting to find it in pieces, or else sodden and tasteless, he lifted the meat from the pot, and finding it almost cold, cut and tasted it. It was the most delicious piece he had ever eaten, and so thought all who tasted it. Since that time," ho adds, " my corned beef, hams, tongues, or any kind of salted meat intended for boiling, is put over the fire early and left to boil slowly or simmer a long time, and after it is done the pot is lifted ofl; the fire, and the meat is allowed to cool in the pot from twenty minutes to half an hour. Following this plan we always have specially good meat, and so say all our friends who sit at our table to partake of it." Beef, Boiled, Italian Sauce for. Dissolve one ounce of butter in a stewpan and +tii- into it one ounce of flour till it becomes a rich brown, then add one-eighth of an ounce of salt, the same of pepjier, and half a gill of white French wine, previously reduced from one gill by boiling, and three-quarters of a pint of bouillon or broth. Boil fifteen minutes, and add three table-spoonfuls of fine herb sauce. Skim and serve. Sufficient for one pound and a half of beef. Beef Bones, Broiled. There are fendishes more ajjpetisiug than broiled bones, whether of beef, mutton, or poultry. Great attention should be given to the fire. If not clear the bones will be blackened and lose their nice delicate flavour. Divide them, if necessary, rub them with a little clarified butter, then with pepper, salt, and mustard, and broil over the fire for about five minutes. Serve alone or with sliced potatoes fried and very hot. Beef Brains {?? le Bullock's Braias). Beef, Braised, Rump (a la Jardiniere). Remove the bone from a piece of nmip weighing about sixteen pounds , and trim and tie it into a nice shape. Sim-air it for three hours in the stock-pot, and after well di-aining put it into a braising - pan, with a gravy made in fhe following manner : Put tkree carrots, three onions, three shaiots, three bayleaves, and a sjirig of thyme into a stewpan with a pint and a half of good rich gra y. Slice the vegetables and simmer until the flavour is extracted and the gra -y reduced to about one pint, then strain and add the best part of a pint of jMarsala. Pour this gravy into ?the braising-pan over the meat, simmer and baste c of Esi: tureen -with b] o hours. Add half a pint slvim and strain into a +ith the beef. Garnish ?arrots, and cauliflowers ; the latter is best placed at the ends and sides of the dish, with carrots on each side of the cauliflowers and the brussels sj routs to fill up the spaces between. Time to simmer, tlrree hours ; to braise, two hours. Probable cost, lid. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for a remove. Beef, Braised, Rump, with Macaroni. Cook the beef as before directed, am. boil some blanched macaroni in veal brot:i. Drain it, and add some Espagnolo caucc and grated Parmesan cheese. Mix well and servo round the meat. Tomato sauce may be sent to table on a tureen. Time to boil the macaroni fi-om fifteen to tAventy minutes. Beef, Breslau. Take three or four ounces of bread-crumbs, beat up three eggs and add them to the crumbs and a small cupful of good bro-vNTi gra y; break three ounces of butter into small pieces, and mix all together with half a tea-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, two tablespoonfuls of minced thyme and parslej , and a little cayenne. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, take of roast beef, rather undercooked, from a half to three-quarters of a pound, mince it very finely, mix well with the forcemeat, and bake "for half an hour in buttered coffee-cups. Turn out, and serve with egg-balls round the dish and gra y if liked. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. Beef, Brisket of. Stewed. Take six pounds of beef, and, before dressing it, rub it ov6r with vinegar and salt ; place it in a stewpan with stock or water sufficient to co -er it. Allow it to simmer for an hour, skimming it well all the time. Put in (six each) carrots, tm-nips, and small onions ; and allow all to simmer until the meat is quite tender, which will be in about other two hours. As soon as it is ready the bones should be removed. Boil for a few minutes as much of the gravy as wiU be required with flour and a little butter, and season it with ketchup, allspice, and mace. Pour a little of it over the brislcet, and send the remainder to table in a sej arate dish. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 7d. to 8d. per pound. Beef, Brisket of, Stewed (another way). Take about seven pounds of nicelytrimmed brisket. Any bone should be taken out, get it without if jjossible ; put it into a stewpan with water or stock to cover, a layer of bacon under, and over a few cloves, whole allspice, a bunch of sweet herbs, two small onions, two carrots, and salt and pepper at discretion. Simmer in a tightly-covered stewpan from four to four and a half hoirrs, then stivain oft' the liquid (there will not be much), reduce it to a glaze, keeping oui a little for sauce. Glaze the meat, and send up the sauce thickened round it. Garnish with carrot cut into slices, and glazed onions, which must bo coolced apart from the meat. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. EEE (53) BEE Beef, Brisket of, To Carve. The accompanying- engraving represents the appearance of a brisket of beef ready for table. There BEISKET OF BEEF, IS no difSculty in carving it. The only thing to observe is that it should be cut cleanly along the bones, in the direction indicated by the dotted line, witha fix-m hand, in moderately-thick slices. Cut it close down to the bones, so that they may not have a rough and jagged appearance when removed. Beef, Brose. Take the liquor from the boiling of a large joint of beef. After the meat has been removed make it come to the boil, and stir into it some oatmeal, which has previously been browned in an oven. Send it to table quite hot, but not too thick. A Httle of the liquor made to boil up will remedy tliis. Probable cost of oatmeal, 2 Jd. to 3d. per pound. Beef Cakes. Make a mincemeat of one pound of under-di-essed roast beef, a quarter of a pound of ham or bacon, a few sweet herbs, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Add a large egg well beaten, and make up into square cakes of about half an inch thick. Fry quickly in good dripping, with bread-crumbs and a little more egg beaten up. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Time, from five to six minutes. Sufficient for thi'ee or four persons. Beef Cannelon. Beat a pound of moderately fat bacon or ham in a mortar ; add it to two poimds and a half of under-cooked beef ; mince together very finely along with the rind of a small lemon, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and nutmeg, pepper, and salt according to taste, binding all together with two eggs previously beaten. Form the mixtm-e into a roll, wrap it in buttered paper, and bake it in a moderate oven for twenty minutes or half an hour. When ready, remove the paper, dish it with a good gravy poured over it, and garnish with egg-balls and forcemeat-balls. Probable cost 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Beef Cheese. Take three parts of beef steak from any fleshy part of the animal, and one part equally composed of lean veal and uncooked ham ; chop them together as finely as possible ; cut a piece of white bacon into small dice, and mix it with the minced meat ; season with salt, pepper, allspice, chopped parsley, and chives or green onions, half a clove of garlic, bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, and half a wine-glassful of brandy. Line the bottom of an earthen pate-dish with thin slices of bacon ; on this place the seasoned mincemeat ; cover with more thin slices of bacon. Put the cover on the dish ; lute it down with paste made of flour and vinegar, and send it to pass the night in a very slow baker's oven. Let the beef cheese cool and stiffen in the cellar for twenty -four hours before opening or cutting it up. This makes a useful, nutritious, and economical dish te help out a cold dinner, where there are many children or guests to serve in a hurry, and where bones are inconvenient, as in travelling, and on many occasions of an active and busy life. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Beef, Cold, Scalloped. Fill some scallop-shaj)es with a mince of beef, highlyseasoned with salt, pepper, and a little grated ham or tongue. Add to it as much stock with a little walnut pickle as the meat will absorb when heated gently over the fire. The mince must not be thin and watery. Fill the shapes and cover them with mashed potato or breadcrumbs. Warm in the oven with butter sliced over the top, which should be prettily marked and of a nice brown colour. Time to warm, about ten minutes. Probable cost, M-ithout themeat, 6d. or 8d. Beef, Cold Roast, Minced. Lnce about tlii-ee-quarters of a pound of beef, and chop into it a seasoning of herbs and shalot. Bro-wn a lump of butter with a little flour in a frying-pan, add some stock broth, and simmer with the seasoning for two or three minutes. Put the mince into a stewpan, pour the gravy over, and simmer again till tender. Serve with mashed potatoes or sippets of bread. Time, fifteen minutes. Beef, Collared. Bone and skin about twelve poimds of thin flank beef, and rub it well with a mixture of common salt, saltpetre, and a httle sugar. Let it stand for five days, then wash ofl: the pickle ; drain and dry the beef with a cloth. Prepare some strips, of bacon, make notches in the meat, and lay them into the cuts ; then take two large tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, one oi sweet herbs, a dozen cloves well pounded, a drachm of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix well together and strew the mixture over the inside part of the meat, taking care that every part shall be equally covered. Poll up and tietightly; put it into a large saucepan of cold water well secured in a cloth, and allow it to simmer slowly for six hours. When ready take off the cloth and put the beef into a mould; Set a weight on the top and let it stand tiU cold. When sent to table garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 7d. to 8d. per pound. "Beef Collops. Take two pounds of thinlycut and tender rump steak, and di-\'ide it into small pieces. If there be any doubt about its tenderness, beat it gently with the blade of a kiiife, but do not spoil the form of the meat. Lay the p-ieces in a frj4ng-pan . for two or three minutes. AMien bro- -n put them into a stewpan and pour a pint of gravy into it. Take a quarter of a poiind of butter rubbed into a little flour; add this to the gravy -sNath a seasoning of salt and pepper, one shalot finely shred, the best part of a pickled walmit, and a small tea-spoonful of (?upers. Let tlio wlioh? simmo-ifor about ten minutes. The steak may 1? BEE (5-i) stewed with water instead of gravy if prefeiTed. Serve in a covered dish, and send hot to table. Cost of beef, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for three or foiu- xjersons. Beef Collops, with Onions, Make some butter hot in a frying-pan ; get ready one pound of collops; they should be cut thinner than is usual for broiling, and cut two middlesized onions into rings. Dust a little pepper over them, and when they are bro vned cover the pan closely up till done. This will be in about ten minutes. Servo hot v ith a littla oyster pickle or w-alnut ketchup added to the gravy in the pan. Time, tlirce minutes to fry, ten to simmer. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for two persons. Beef, Corned. Lay a large round of beef into a good pickle. Let it remain for ten days or more, turning it every day. Put it into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it, and let it boil very gently until it is thoroughly done. Corned beef is often smoked before it is boiled. Allow half an hour to the pound after it has come to a boil. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Beef Croquettes (a la Mode). Cut some cold roast or boiled beef into dice, three-quarters of an inch square, and prepare a batter according to recipe given for frying batter. Dip the dice into the batter, and then cover them with bread-crumbs ; an operation which may be repeated two or three times. Then put the dice into a well-buttered pan, and fry till they get a rich brown colour. They may be flattened with a spoon if preferred. Servo with fried parsley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Beef, Curried. Cut an onion and haK a baking apple, peeled and cored, into very small pieces, and fry them in a saucepan for two or thi'oe minutes. Add a pomid of cold roast or boiled beef cut into thin slices, fry the meat, and pour over it half a pint of water in which has been stirred a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and simmer for ten minutes. Serve with boiled rice in a separate dish. Beef Dripping. This should be removed from the pan as it drips from the meat, taking care to keep sufficient to baste with. When dripping remains in the pan during the whole process of cooking a joint it not only becomes discoloured and unfit for use, but it is wasteful in the highest degree to expose it to the action of a hot fire. Dripping should be placed in a basin and cleared from all impurities by means of boihng water thrown upon it. \Vhen cold, make a hole, pour out the water, and turn the dripping down side uppermost on a dish ; remove the dirt which will be found adhering to the bottom, and put the dripping by for use. Lf necessary, it may be returned to the basin to get another cleansing with boiling water. Clarify into jars for general use. It will b ' found good enough for any frying or stewing purpose to wliich butter is applied. Beef, Dutetl. Take ten pounds of the buttock of beef without fat, rub it well with broNvn sugar, and allow it to lie five or six hours, turning frequently during the time. Put the beef into an earthenware pan. Press into it a small table-spoonful of saltpetre mixed with three table-spoonfuls of salt, and rub and turn every day for a fortnight. Then put it into a coarse cloth under a cheese-press for twentyfour hours, and dry in a chimney. When boiled it should be put into a cloth. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Beef, Dutch, or Hung. Rub into twelve or fomtecu pounds of the round or rump of beef two ounces of saltpetre and two ounces of coarse sugar. Let the meat remain for two days, and add a pound of bay-salt, four ounces of common salt, and an ounce of ground black pepper. When these ingredients have been thoroughly rubbed in, let the beef again stay four days, when add one pound of treacle, and tm-n it every day for a fortnight. It may then be smoked. This liighly-fiavoured meat is mostly used to improve soups and gra des. A small piece is cut off as it is wanted, but it may be stewed slowly in boihng v ater and pressed while hot. Should this pickle be thought too strong three-quarters of a pound of coarse sugar may be rubbed in and the treacle omitted. It may also be prepared as spiced beef by adding a few cloves and a little mace. Time in pickle, fourteen days. Probable cost of beef. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Beef, Fillet of. Braised. Take a fiUet and roll it together, so as to bring the fat into the centre. Place a few slices of ham and a little gravy into a braising or stewpan, on which place the meat ; cover it with chopped carrots, celery, small onions, a pickled chili, a gherkm sUced, sweet herbs, mace, a little allspice, and salt. Simmer imtil the meat is tender. Brown it before the fire, or with a salamander ; skim and season the saiice, and seive with vegetables and sauce on the same dish. Beef, Fillet of, dressed on the Spit. Soak from four to five jiounds of the fillet of beef for two days in vinegar, seasoned dth thyme, onions, parsley, salt, and pepper, or if preferred, oil may be used instead of vinegar. When drained wrap it in an oiled paper, and put it on the spit before a quick fire. Probable cost. Is. 4d. x)er pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Beef Foreemeat. Take one pound of lean beef, quai-ter of a pound of beef suet, and half a pound of fat bacon ; cut them into small jjieces, and add half a tea-spoonful of powdered th;VTne and marjoram, the same of ground allspice, and half the quantity of poxmded mace. Put all into a mortar and pound them to a paste, with two well-beaten eggs. Season with pepper and salt. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Beef, French, Stewed. Beat two pounds of rump steak with a rolling-pin to j make it tender, and then lard it thoroughly v 'ith strips of bacon. Place it in a stewpan with some good stock, spice, salt, garlic, thyme, parsley, and haK a pint of white wine. Stew gently for four or five hours; take out the meat, glaze it, and put away to cool. Next reduce the stock imtil it jellies, clear it with white of egg, flavour with lemon, and strain thi-ough a jelly -bag into a pie-dish. Serve the meat (55) BEE cold, garnished -wath i icces of the jelly and glycerine alternately. Probable cost, os. 6d. tsiiflicient for four or five persons. Beef Frieadelles are best when made with beef, mutton, and pork in equal quantities, and cut A'ery fine, but either will do separately. If beef, take one pound and a half of nice lean meat, a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, six ounces of fine bread-crumbs, a cup of cold water, and salt and pepper to taste. JMi.x well together and tui-n out a round well-formed cake. Cover with raspings and cross over the top with a knife ; put it on a buttered plate and bake in a quick oven. It should have a nice rich brown appearance, or it may be half stewed and then completed in the oven. Time, about one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufificient for five or six persons. Beef Pricadelles, Spiced, Prepare the meat as in preceding recipe, adding a little more butter, some grated lemon, cinnamon, cloves, or spiced sauces to taste, and cook as already dii-ected. The fricadelle may also be formed into small b Us, and fried over a clear fire. Time, one houi". Beef, Prieandeau of. Lard about three pounds of the rump or fillet of sirloin. Pound three or four cloves, six whole allspice, and two blades of mace. IMix a little pepper and salt with these ingredients, and sprinkle it over the meat. Put it into a stewpan with a pint of medium stock, a glass of white wine, a bunch of savoury herbs tied together, two shalots, and a little more pepper and salt. Stew the meat very slowly for two hours, when it will be done. Remove it from tlie stewpan and cover to keep hot. Skim all the fat from the gravy, strain, and set it over the fire to boil till it is reduced to a glaze. Then put it over the top, and send it to table vith sorrel round the dish. Sorrel, like spinach, requires good washing and piclcing; put it into a stewpan with only the water that clings to it. Stir well to pi'event sticldng or burning; drain out all the water; this must be done effectually ; add a little butter and some good gravy, and stew till done. A little sugar may be added if there is too much acidity. Time to stew the soitcI, one hour. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Beef Prieo (Charles X.'s favourite dish). Beat and lard a juicy, tender steak of two pounds ; lay it into a close-fitting covered stewpan, with equal quantities of water and vinegar. Add a little vegetable, particularly onion, and stew gently for two hours, but do not allov it to bm-n or stick to the pan. When cold cut the meat into strips, smear it with beaten egg, and strew over bread-crumbs well-seasoned with pepper, shalot, and salt. Fiy till it is of a light brown colour, which will be in about ten minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, Pried Rump Steak. Cut the steak rather thinner than for broiling, and with a little fat. Put it into a hot pan of clarified butter or dripping, and turn frequently until done. Serve in about eight or ten minutes, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup ; or with a gra y made in the frying-pan and seasoned with HarA-ey's sauce, or according to taste. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Beef Pritters. Scrape one pound of meat from a piece of cold roast beef, and season it with pepper and salt. Have ready a batter made with three-quarters of a pound of flour, and about half a pint of water. Blend these two well together, and stir in a piece of butter about the size of an egg, wliich has been melted before the fire. Whisk the whites of two eggs, and add it to the batter with the scraped meat. Stir well, and drop only a small quantity at a time into the pan, when the lard or dripping is boiling. Turn, that both sides may be bro'rni. From eight to ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them over a steady fire. Dry, and send to table on a napkin. Probable cost, about 6d. to 8d., without meat. Sufficient for two persons. Beef Gobbets. Cut two pounds of lean beef into small pieces, put it into a stewpan with water sufficient only to cover it, and allow it to simmer gently for an hour. Then add sliced carrots and turnips, a head of celery minced, and a small bunch of savoury hei-bs, with salt to taste, a crust of bread, and half a tea-cupful of rice. Enclose in a clean muslin bag a few peppercorns, three or fom- cloves, and a small blade of mace. Put the lid on the pan, and let the whole stew again for another half hour, or until the meat is quite tender. Take out the crust, spice, and herbs. Place the meat on slices of toasted bread, pour the liquid in which it was stewed over it, and serve quickly, as the dish is best hot. Probable cost of bcei', lOd. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Gobbets (another way). Fry some small pieces of beef brown in a little butter, but first season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. Then put them into a stewjDan with some parsley and shalot finely shred, and stew them till sufficiently tender in a rich brown gravy. When nearly done, add a teaspoonful of port wine and one of vinegar. Make a cover of grated bread-crumbs over the 1 dish in which they are served; season theni with pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown with a salamander. Time, five minutes to fry; twenty miniites to stew. Probable cost, Is., without meat. Beef, Gravy, To Keep in Store. Put foiu- or five pounds of gravy beef, free from fat, into a stewpan with one pint of water, a carrot sliced, a good-sized onion, a head of celery, a thick slice of cooked ham, and a couple of cloves. Close the lid of the pan and let it stew until the water has nearly dried up, taking care that neither meat or vegetables get bm-nt or even stick to the pan. Then add three quarts of boiling water. Remove the pan from the fire, but put it near enough to keep the liquid from boiling too fast. When well boiled and reduced to two quarts, strain thi-ough a sieve, and when cold take off the fat. This gravy will serve for game or poultry, and will keep good several days. Probable cost of beef, 8d. per poimd. BEE ( ' 6 ) BEE Beef Griskins (of Cold ]Mcat, Eoast or Boiled). The best of these are the thin part of the ribs, the breast, or other poitions of the bullock in which the fat and lean are equally mixed. Finely chop one or two onious or slialots, some parsley, and mbc them with popper, salt, grated nutmeg, and oiled butter, which last must be kept sufficiently wami to remain liquid. Cut the beef into slices about an inch thiclc ; steep them in the above, turning them over from time to time. WTien they are well soaked, press them on both sides in breadcrumbs mixed with a little grated cheese. Grill them over a gentle fire till they are thoroughly heated, and nicely browned on both sides. While they are broiling, put the butter, onions, &c., in which they were steeped, into ii saucepan, with a couple of table-spoonfuls of broth. Let it boil a few minutes, shaking it about ; add a tea-spoonful of vinegar and a table-spoonful of ketchup, and serve in a sauceboat with the ?broiled griskins. Beef, Hamburg (see Hambm-g Beef). Beef Hams. Take beer in quantity enough to mix tlie following ingredients: Three ounces of treacle, one pound of coarse brown sugar, one pound of salt, one ounce of bay-salt, and one of saltpetre pounded together, and half an ounce of coarse black pepper. Get a leg of beef shaped like a ham, lay it in a dish and keep it basted with the pickle, which should be thrown over it, at first, four times a day ; during the second week it may be done only three times, and for the last fortnight twice a day, morning and evening, will be sufficient. In a month drain, dry, and roll it in bran ; then smoke for a fortnight or three weeks It should be secured in canvas, and well washed with lime. Hang in a dry store. Cost of ingredients, about Is. Sufficient for one gallon. Beef, Hash (a la Fran aisc) . Put two ounces of butter and a little flour into a stewpan : tlissolve it, and tkrow in a little chopped onion and a dessert- spoonful of finely-minced parsley ; bro\vn, but do not burn the butter. When sufficiently brown, add three-quarters of a pint of good boiling broth, quite free from fat, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Put in slices of cold beef (two pounds), and allow it t o heat gradually by the side of the fire. Thicken the sauce with a little more flour well mixed in a table-spoonful of water, or beat up thi-ee eggs mixed with a table -spoonful of lemon-juice ; the thickening must be put in when near the point of boiling. Time, fifteen minutes to stew. Sufficient for five or six persons. Beef, Hash. (Norman method). Put into a bowl a large cup of boiling stock or broth, a wine-glassful of red wine, a little salt and pepper or cayenne, and some lemon pickle ketchup. Fry about two dozen small silver onions in butter till they are of a pale brown colour ; mix in two dessert-spoonfuls of flour, and stir till it has become a beautiful amber colour. Pour the contents of the bowl into the pan, and boil the whole until the onions are done ; then put some small, wellcut sliees of roast or boiled beef into a clean stewpan, and pour the gi avy and onions over them. Allow it to stand till the meat has acquired the flavour of the gravy ; then mako it very hot, but do not allow it to boil. Serve quicldy. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, lOd. Beef, Hash, with Croutons. Take a pint of good stock, a table- spoonful of lemon pickle, one of mushroom ketchup, a glass of claret, and about a dozen silver button onions, which have been previously fried in butter and well browned. Put the mixtui-e into a stewpan with the butter in which the onions were fried. Set it over a clear fire until the onions are tendei-, then pour it all over the slices of two i)Ounds of cold beef to be hashed. Let it stand about twenty minutes, well covered; then draw it nearer to the fire, but do not allow it to boil. Serve up with croutons. To prepare the croutons : take two rounds of bread cut very thin, mako them any desired shape, long strips, stars, or rounds ; fry them in boiling butteia nice brown colour, drain on a cloth, and serve. Probable cost, without meat, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Beef Heart {see Bullock's Heart). Beef, Hung. This meat should be hung as long as is consistent with safety to make it tender. Rub into the meat weighing, say from twelve to fourteen pounds, one pound of baysalt, one pound of coarse brown sugar, and six ounces of saltpetre pounded and mixed togethei-. It should be rubbed every morning, and will then be ready for smoking in a fortnight. Probable cost of beef, lOd. per pound. Smoke the meat about three weeks. Beef, Hung (another way). This recipe can be used for beof either smoked or unsmoked. It may be salted dry, or put into a pickle made with the same ingredients. The beef must be hung for three or four days, then rubbed with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and a little pepper and allspice ; afterwards hang it up in a Avarm but not a hot place, rolled tight in a cloth, for a fortnight or more till it has become sufficiently hard. It may bo hung in the corner of a chimney of a wood fire to get the flavour of smoke, or sent to a smoking-house. A small clove of garlic put in the pickle is considered an improvement. Time, two or three weeks to remain in brine. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Beef, Hunters'. Get a nice round of beef, weighing about twenty-five pounds, and hang it for two or three days, according to the weather. When hung long enough, put it into a salting-pan, reduce the following ingredients to powder, and rub it into the meat every morning for eighteen or twenty days, turning it at every rubbing : Three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of coarse sugar, one ounce of cloves, one nutmeg, half an ounce of allspice, one pound of salt, and half a pound of bay-salt. AVhen salt enough, cleanse it from the brine, put a bandage round the whole extent of the meat to keep it in shape, and lay it in a pan with half a pint of water at the bottom, and some shred suet on the top of the beef. Cover all with a paste composed of flour and water, and bake it for about six hours. Do not remove the paste until the heat has quite BEE ( 57 ) gone off. The bandage round the meat should be clean and not quite new. The gravy left in the bottom of the pan should be preserved ; it will be found excellent for made dishes of any kind. The beef may be glazed and garnished with savoitry jelly. Average cost of beef, lOd. per pound. Beef, Inky-pinky. Good gravy should be used if it is to be had ; if not, boil down the bones from which the meat has been cut, as well as the outside trinimings; they will make a gravy sufficiently good, with the addition of sliced boiled carrots and an onion. When the bones have parted with jill their strength, strain the liquor, and add to it some slices of cold loast beef, about two pounds, and the carrots and onion. Sinmier slowly, and add a little vinegar, pejiper, and salt. Remove the onion ; it will have imparted a flavour, which is all tliat is necessary; but serve up the carrots with the sauce, thickened with a little butter and floui'. Put sippets of bread round the dish, or garnish as any other hash. Average cost, e.xclusive of meat, 6d. Time, twenty imnutes to stew. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, Jerked. This is a West Indian method of cui-iug beef. It is cut into thin slices, immersed in sea -water, and dried by exposm-e to the rays of the sun. Beef Kidney { ee Bullock's Kidney). Beef Liver {nee Bullock's Liver). Beef, Lumber, in Madeira Sauce. Eoast three pounds of beef, for half an hornonl}-. Prepare a sauce with brown stock or broth, some butter, flour, cayenne pepper, salt, l epper, and a glass of Madeira. At the expiry of the half hoiu', lay it in a stewpan, with the sauce, and siimner, but do not boil, for the same time. Mushrooms and trifles add to the delicacy. Time, half an hour to simmer. Probable cost of lumber. Is. 4d. per pound. Beef, Marinade. A pickle should be made on the day i revious to the marinade being r(, quired, that the meat may he in it the full time necessary. Extract, by stewing, all the flavour from the following ingredients, with vinegar and water in equal quantities : One clove of garlic, some sliced carrots and onions, a few peppercorns, and a little salt. Strain, and let it become cold. Cut into slices one pound of beef from the inside of a sirloin, and lay them in the pickle for twentyfour hours. Have ready a little, nice, brown gravy, and simmer the slices in it till they are quite tender. Blend together a little butter and flour, add this to the gravy, with a glass of port wine, two dessert-spooiiiuls of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of shalot vinegar. Serve with the sauce poured over it. Time to simmer, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, without meat, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Beef Marrow Bones. Saw the bones into short lengths, and mix some flour and water into a paste to secure both ends, which should also have a floured cloth tied over them. Put them into boiling water, and let them boil from one and a half to two hours. Put small napkins round them, or a frill of paper, wluchever is most convenient, and remove the paste before they are sent to table. Serve them on a napkin, with hot dry toast. The marrow may be spread upon the toast, and well seasoned with pepper and salt. When not wanted for immediate use the bones, should be pai-boiled, as they will keep many days in this state. Probable cost for a large leg-bone, from 9d. to Is. Beef, Minced (a la Bourgeoise). Brown a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, in a stewpan. Cut some roast beef into small pieces, and put them, with a little parsley, basil, thj-me, pepper, and nutmeg, into the brown butter. Shake the pan for some minutes over a slow fire, and add equal parts of wine and stock broth. Simmer imtil the meat is tender, and before sending to table add a table-spoonful of the best oil. Time to simmer, twenty minutes, or until tender. Two pounds of beef Avill be found sufficient for three or four persons. Beef, Minced, Boiled. Mince very fine three or four small onions, wdth a little thyme, parsley, chives, and tarragon, and put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, over a gentle fire, until partially cooked. Mix with them haK a table-spoonful of flom', and let them become brown. Add pepper, salt, half a glass of white wine, and a glass of stock. When the onions and spices are quite ready, put them into the pan with a sufficient quantity of cold beef fineh' minced, and allow it to simmer at a gentle heat for half an hour. Before sending to table, mix Avith it a spoonful of mustard. Beef, Miroton of. Put three ounces of butter into a frying-pan, with three onions, thinly sliced, and a pound of cold roast beef, under-cooked, if possible, and cut into small slices. Turn the meat constantly, so that it will be evenly browned on both sides. When of a nice colour, put in about haK a pint of good gravy, with salt and pepper to taste. Allow it to simmer a few minutes, but do not boil, or the meat will be shrunken and hard. Serve hot. This is a very nice and cheap dish. Probable cost, about 6d., without the beef. Beef Olives. Cut two pounds of rump steak into thin slices, and beat well with a rolling-pin to make it tender. Lay o-\-er each a seasoning of chopped herbs, pepper, and salt ; roll up the pieces separately, and tie round with a narrow tape. Get a clean stewjjan, in which place one ounce of butter, half a pound of bacon, cut in thin slices, some chopped parsley, and enough stock to make gravy. Put the rolls of steak into the stewpan, pressing them closely together; cover with a piece of white paper, and stew gently from two to three hours. When sufficiently tender, thicken the gi'avy with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, or half an ounce of butter rolled in flour, and servo. A few drops of mushroom ketchup, or Reading sauce, is considered bv some cooks to imi:)rove this dish. Probable " cost for steak, BEE ( 58 BEE Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Beef Olives, (Au Eoi). Take long, thin slices of beef, beat them till tender, and lay over them equal quantities of mushroom, parsley, and chopped onion. The vegetables must be carefully prepared ; a spoonful of each will be sufficient for six slices of meat. Mash two pounds of boiled potatoes. Mix a spoonful of flour to a quarter of a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, with a little pepper and salt, and add it to the mash. Spread the mixture over the olives ; roll them up, tie with a narrow tape, and fry, or put them into the oven for about half an hour. Serve with a good brown sauce, or they may have an edging of potatoes. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, without the meat, Is. Beef Palates (au Gratin). Beat up the yolks of two eggs, and mix them, when well beaten, with the following ingredients: A Made of mace, pounded, with a little salt and pepper, an eschalot, and a sprig of parsley, minced, two or three button mushrooms, and a slice of ham, scraped finely. Cut ? thi-ee palates, which have been cleaned and boiled and the skin removed, into long slices ; spread this forcemeat over them, and roll each one round, fastening it with a skewer. Balce in a moderate oven for half an hour, with breadcrumbs, well seasoned, and thin slices of butter laid over them. Probable cost, 6d. each. Beef Palates, Fricasseed. Put six well-cleaned palates into a stewpan, with just water enough to cover them ; add a bunch of parsley, a glass of white wine, a tea-spoonful of salt and sugar, and a little pepper. Simmer three hours, and strain the liquor. Blend two ounces of good butter with a table-spoonful of flour; dissolve it over the fire, and stir in gradually half a pint of cream, with as much of the liquor in which the palates were boiled as will make it of the proper consistency. Lay the palates into the stewpan, in neat, round slices ; add a couple of small cucumbers (divide them into strips, and remove the seeds), two or three small onions, previously boiled, a little nutmeg, grated, with cayenne and salt to taste, and stew twenty minutes. AVhen ready to serve, add a table-spoonful of lemon- juice to the sauce. Probable cost of palates, 6d. each. Sufiicient for a dish to serve six or seven persons. Beef Palates, Fried. Blanch three ox palates for ten minutes ; scrape them carefully, and boil slowly for three hoiirs. When tender, take off the skin, and slice them for frying. Dissolve a little butter, and shred up some onion and parsley. Dip each slice of palate into the butter ; then into the parsley and onion, which should be seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry from five to eight minutes, a nice brown colour-, and serve with lemonjuice over the slices, and fried parsley as garnish. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Palates, Stewed. Cleanse, soak, and boil the palates, as before directed. Skin and cut four into slices of from one to two inches broad, and let them stew in some rich gravy, well seasoned with salt, cayenne, and mace, a table-spoonful of grated ham or tongixe, and a couple of cloves. Vhen they have stewed from four to five hours, add two ounces of butter, a little fiour, a glass of sherry, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Serve on a dish, in a circle, with croutons arranged alternately with the palate. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Patties. Shred one pound of undercooked beef, a little fat and lean together; season with pepper, or cayenne, salt, and a little onion, or shalot. Make half a i)Ound of puff-paste, not too rich, cut into shape, and cover up, with the minced meat inside. Secure the edges with a little white of egg, pinch round, and fry them a light brown. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six patties. Beef Patties (another way)'. Take thick slices of bioad, a week old if it can be obtained, and make them of the desired form and size with a tin cutter. Scoojd out the middle to receive the mince, prepared as in the preceding recipe. Dip each piece of bread into cream, and when drained brush them with white of egg, and dredge bread -crumbs, or breadraspings, over them. Fry in good fresh butter, fill them with the miucc, made hot, and send to table on a napkin. Beef Patties, Meat for. Mince half a pound of good, fresh suet ; put it to one pound of beef and one pound of veal, cut into small pieces, but not chopped. Season it with pepper, salt, allspice, and a very little mace the allspice and mace should be pounded. Mix all together ; and when wanted for patties, cut wp a little l arsley, and shred one blade of shalot, very finely, to mix with it. Bake in Datty-pans, or buttered saucers for half an hour. They are also good cold, and may be warmed up at any time. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Beef, Pickle for. This pickle is intended for diy-salting. The ingredients must be well pounded and mixed together before the meat is rubbed with it, and the beef, or hams, turned and well I'ubbed every day until salt enough. One i: ound of common salt, three ounces of saltpetre, four pounds of brown sugar, and one tea-spoonful of black pepper, will be found to impart a good, rich flavour to the meat. Cost of ini;i-i'(lients, about Is. 2d. Beef, Pickle for (another way). To two gallons of clear, spring water, take four pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Treacle may be used with sugar, l art of each, if preferred. Boil all together until the scum has quite disappeared, and when cold throw it over the meat to be pickled. A piece of beef, weighing from fourteen to sixteen pounds, will take twelve, or even fourteen days, and a ham a fortnight or thi-ee weeks. Cost for two gallons, about 8d. Beef Pie, Raised. Cover the sides of a raised pie-mould with butter, and put a lining of paste, made in the following manner, neetly into it: Chop a quarter of a pound of suet, put it into a stewpan -with a quarter of a pound BEE (59) BEE of butter and a pint of water; when boiling, pass thom through a sieve into two pounds of iioui-, and stir it with a spoon until the heat has gone olf . Wlien the dough, or paste, is quite smooth, roll it out, and it is ready for the lining. Take two pounds of rump steak and cut them into small coUops ; season them with minced parsley, pepper, and salt ; dust them with flour, and lay them roTind . the mould ; fill it with alternate layers of potatoes, thinly sliced, and meat, ilake a lid for the moidd with some of the paste, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake about three hours and a half. Put an oi'namental centre to the cover, that it may be more easily raised to throw in some gravy as soon as it is baked. Probable cost, 3s. lOd. Beef, Potted. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, and a covered jar that will hold about two pounds of beef ; let the meat be lean, and without bone or gristle. Place the jar containing the meat into the saucepan ; put two tea-spoonfuls of water into it, and close the lid tightly that no more may enter. The water in the saucepan must be about an inch and a half below the lid of the jar, and it should boil slowly until the meat is done, which will be in about tliree hours and a half. It should then be chopped with a knife, and afterwards pounded in a mortar ; adding some clarified butter, the meat-juice from the jar (if too much keep back a part), and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Fill into small pots, and pour some melted butter over the top ; this will preserve the meat good for a long time. Beef, Pressed. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre in a little water, and mix with it two pounds of common salt and half a pound of brown sugar. Rub this pickle into a piece of meat, weighing about ten or twelve pounds, every morning for eight days ; then remove it from the pan, and secure it in a nice round with a piece of broad tape or calico. Put it into hot water, and simmer for over five hoars; then put it into a pan of cold spring water for five or six minutes, drain, and put it on a flat surface with an even weight on the top. When cold take off the bandage, and serve. The top must be trimmed so as to look neat. Beef, Preserved (-S'fc Australian Beef). Beef, BagOUt. Take equal quantities of good gravy and boiling water a pint in all. Pour it into a stcwpan, in which two pounds of cold roast beef, sliced, have been put. Add five or six small onions, some mixed spices, pepper and salt to taste, and let the whole stew very gently until tender, which will be in about two hours. Before serving, add capers and pickled walnuts to the gxavy. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 4d. or od. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Beef, Bibs of (a la Fermiere) . Take a rib of beef, and cover it with slices of bacon well seasoned with herbs. Put into a stewpan a little butter, and let it melt over the fire, and place the rib in it, with some salt and pepper. Expose the meat to the heat of a quick fire, and when sufficiently browned on both sides, set the stcwp::n farther from the fire, so that it may continue to cook at a gentle heat. As soon as it is sufficiently done, remove the meat, and place it on a dish. Take some small cucumbers, slice, and cook them at a gentle heat in the gravy, and add to the meat before serving. Beef, Ribs of (a la Marseillaise). Brown a rib of beef over a quick fire, with four table-spoonfuls of good oil. When both sides are browned draw the stewpan aside, and let it cook gently until tender. Fry some sliced onions in oil until they are brown ; then add vinegar, mustard, and a little stock broth. Season with salt and pejoper, and pour it over the rib of beef. Beef, Ribs of, To Carve. The ribs should be cut in thin and even shces from the RIBS OF BEEF. thick end towards the thin, in the same manner as the sirloin ; this can be more readily and cleanly done, if the carving-knife is first run along between the meat and the end and ribbones. Beef, Ribs of. To Roast, The best j)iece to roast is the fore-rib, and it should be himg for two or three days before being cooked. The ends of the ribs should be sawn off, the outside fat fastened with skewers, and the strong sinew and chine bones removed. The joint should first be placed at some distance from the fire, and gradually brought closer until hot through, to prevent its being scorched while yet raw. Baste freely with clarified dripping at first, as there will not be sufficient gravy when first put down ; di-edge -svith flour a quarter of an hour- before taking it up. Care must be taken not to aUow it to burn, as it is very easily spoiled. Ser\-e with horse-radish sauce. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Beef, Rib ' Steaks (a la Bordelaise). Cut out a thick steak from between the bones ; soak it in salad-oil, and season with salt and pepper. Broil on each side for five minutes. Boil a small young vegetable marrow, cut it into half -inch slices, glaze, and lay them, when made quite hot, over the steak. Pour some Bordelaise sauce over all, and serve very hot. Time to boil the marrow, ten to twenty minutes. Beef, Rib Steaks (a la Maitre d'Hotel). Prepare steaks as in preceding recipe ; put some Maitre d'Hotel butter on a hot dish ; lay BEE (60) BEE the Bteaks upon it and glaze over the top. Time, ten minutes to broil. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Two pounds sufficient for four persons. Beef Rissoles. Mince one pound of cold roast beef, the leaner the better, very fine ; add pepper, salt, a few savory herbs chopped small, and half a tea-spoonful of minced lemonpeel ; mix all together with half the weight of the beef in bread-crumbs. Bind it with two eggs into a thick paste ; form into balls ; dip them in white of egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them a rich brown. Serve with a garnish of fried parsley, and with a brown gravy in a tureen, or without the parsley, round the rissoles on the dish. Time, from eight to ten m in utes. Probable cost, without meat, about 6d. Beef, Boast. For roasting, the sirloin of beef is considered the prime joint. Before it is put upon the spit, the meat must be washed, then dried with a clean cloth ; cover the fat with a piece of white paper fastened on with string. Make up a good strong fire, with plenty of coals put on at the back. When the joint is first put down, it should bo about ten inches from the fire, and then gradually drawn nearer. Baste continually all the time it is roasting, at first with a little butter or fresh dripping, afterwards its own fat will be sufficient. About ten minutes before it is to be taken up, sprinkle over it a Httle salt, dredge it with flour, and baste it until it is nicely frothed. The time it will take in roasting depends upon the thickness of the piece; a piece of sirloin weighing about fifteen pounds should be roasted for three hours and a half, while a thinner piece, though of the same weight, may be done in three houi-s. It must also be remembered that it takes longer to roast when newly killed than when it has been kept, and longer in cold weather than in warm. Beef, Roast, Minced. Place a spoonful of flour in a pan, and brown it with some butter. Add a pound of cold roast beef finely minced, some gravy, or stock broth, ?s\dth a. glass of wine, and season with herbs chopped up, and salt and pepi er. "When nearly ready, put in a little butter, and mix it -v ath the other materials. This dish may be sent to table either with eggs ranged round the dish, or with piec3s of bread fried crisp in butter. Beef, Roast, and Boiled Turkey Soup. Take the liquor in which a turkey has been boiled, and the bones of the tui-key and beef ; put them into a soup-pot vith two or three caiTots, turnips, and onions, haK a dozen cloves, pepper, salt, and tomatoes, if they can, be had; boil four hours, then strain all out. Put the soup back into the pot, mix two tablespoonfuls of flour in a little cold water ; stir it into the soup, and allow it to boil. Cut some bread in the fonu of dice, lay it in the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup on to it, and colour with a little soy. Beef Roll. Take four pounds of cold, roast, or boiled beef ; mince it well ; season it to taste with ordinary condiments and chopped herbs, and put it into a roll of puff-paste. Bake for half an hour, or longer if the paste is thick. The French prepare a roll of meat in the above method, -s Tup a buttered paper round it, and cover \ith a coarse paste of flour and water, and bake it in a moderate oven for a couple of hours, that is, if the meat weigh say four pounds. The paper and crust is then removed, and the roll served with a little brown gravy. As a rule, any meat baked in a coarse crust this way, will repay the cook for her trouble. Beef RoUed as Hare. Take any piece of tender lean beef inside of a sirloin to be preferred. Allow it to soak for twenty-four hours in a little port wine and vinegar mixed, a glass of each. Make some foi'cemeat, let it be very good, and place it with a slice or two of bacon on the beef. EoU and tie it, and roast before a clear fire, basting frequently with a sauce of port wine and vinegar, of equal quantities, and pounded allspice. Serve with a rich gravy, and send red-currant jelly to table with it. Probable cost for two pounds of meat, 2s. 9d. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Beef, Round of. Boiled. Few people di-ess a whole round, and hence this recipe is given for half a round, or, say twelve pounds, from the silver or tongue side of the round. Salt it for eight or ten days, then clean off the salt or brine, skewer it up tight, and tie a piece of wide tape round it to keep it well together. Put it into a saucepan of boiling water, remove the scum carefully as it rises, otherwise it will sink into the beef and gives it an unsightly appeai-ance. Do not let it boil fast at any time, or the meat ?ss'ill become hard and tough. When the scum is well removed, set the pan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer from ten to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat. Should any scum stick to the meat, remove it with a brush before serving. Eeplace the skewers by silver ones, trim the round, and throw over the meat some of the liquor it was boiled in. Garnish with carrots, parsnips, &c. Time to simmer, about three hours after it boils. Probable cost, about lOd. per pound. Beef, Round of, Pickled. Boil six pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar, and three oimces of powdered saltpetre in three gallons of water (spring water is the best if it can be procured) , skim well, and when cold, pour it over the joint, which should previously have been rubbed during two or three days with a dry mixture of the same. Some housekeepers prefer this dry method throughout, rubbing regularly for twenty-one days, and using salt only during the last fortnight. If boiled in cold wator over a brisk fire at first, and then simmered slowly at the rate of fifteen minutes to every pound, the meat will be tender,, and of a good colour and flavour. Average cost of beef, iOd. per pound. Beef, Round of, Red. Salt a round of licef in the ordinary way, but mix an ounce of allspice, the same of pepper, and two ounces of saltpetre with the salt, and rub and turn daily for a fortnight. At the end of this timepress well into the meat some minced onion ; put a thick coating of good beef suet over the BEE (61) top, and two glasses of Madeira, and a small quantity of mace into the pan and bake. Allow fifteen minutes for the baking of each pound of beef. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Beef, Salt. Take a piece of beef weighing se 'en or eight pounds and cover it with brown sugar, well rubbed in, and allow it to remain for five or six hours ; then jiowder half an ounce of saltpetre and press this equally on all sides to give it a colour; next, cover it -with common salt and let it stay till the next day. Turn it, and rub with the salt in the pan for five or six days ; throwing the brine over it at the same time with a spoon or ladle. This mode of salting improves the flavour and prevents the meat becoming hard. Probable cost of beef, lOd. per pound. Sufiicient for a dozen persons. Beef, Salt, Fried. Season some thin slices, about one pound, of under-dressed beef, with pepper and salt ; put them into a clean frying-pan with a little butter, and fry until they become a light brown colour ; mash some potatoes, serve them very hot with the slices of beef laid on them, and garnish with slices of cucumber or pickled gherkins. Time, about five minutes for meat. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for two persons. Beef Sauce, Piquante. Put one ounce of butter and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar into a stewpan \?ith four finely-chopped shalots, and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon till the butter becomes clear, then add one ounce of flour and stir three or four minutes ; take one pint of bouilli or common stock broth, a little colouring, and one-eighth of an ounce of pepper ; boil all together fifteen minutes, then add one table-spoonful of chopped gherkins and one of nunced parsley, boil up, skim, and serve with bouilli separately in a sauce tureen. Time, twenty minutes. Sufficient for one, or one and a half, pounds of boiulli. Beef Sausages. Clear the beef and suet from all skin, bone, and gristle; take two pounds of lean beef to one pound of suet, add salt, pepper, and mixed spice, and shalots, or any other tasty condiment, according to liking, choj) veiy fine and mix well together. Some cooks prefer to pound the whole in a mortar, but if the meat is well minced this is needless. Roll the meat into sausages and fry until it becomes a nice broN\Ti coloiir, and serve in the usual way, with mashed potatoes round the dish. They are more delicate if pressed into skins. It is worth notice that all meat cooked with the skin retains its original flavour, and is much prefen-ed by connoisseurs. Time to fry, ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Beef Sausages (Home Made). Remove all the skin and giistle from two pounds of lean beef, and mince it very finely with one pound and a half of good fresh suet ; add, as a seasoning, one tea-spoonful of powdered sagp, the same of thj-me and allspice, with salt and pepper to taste ; fill thoroughly clean skins, and boil as directed for black puddings. Time, half an hour to boil. Probable cost for this quantity, about 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, Shin of, Soup. Take three or four pounds of shin of beef, cut the meat into two or three slices down to the bone, which should remain undivided and still enclosed in the flesh. Plug up each end of the bone with a stiff paste made of flour and water, to keep in the .marrow. Set it on the fire in a large pot of cold water, with six or eight peppercorns and three or foui- cloves. Remove the scum as it rises. Season slightly with salt ; othei-wise, by continued boiling and warming-up, the broth will be so reduced as to become too salt. Let it boil gently for four hours, then make it boil fast, and throw in a few peeled turnips, carrots, and onions, with a small bunch of thjTue and parsley. When the vegetables are tender, serve the soup with bits of toasted bread floating in it. When the soup has been served, take up the beef, remove the slices of meat from the bone, separate them, if needed, with a knife and fork, put them in the middle of a hot dish, and arrange the vegetables round them, t cutting the carrots and turnips into shapely bits. For sauce, fry chopped onions brown; stir in amongst them a dessert-spoonful of flour, diluted with a little of the soup, two dessert-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, pepper and salt, stir all together, and pour it over the slices of shin, and serve. For the marrow : toast a large round of bread, lay it on a hot plate, spread the marrow roughly on it, season with pepper, salt, and a little mustard, cut it into as man)' pieces as there are guests, and serve very hot. Beef, Shin of, Stewed. This meat ia best adapted to stewing. The liquor is used, when boiled in a quantity of water, for soups, with the addition of other meat and ingredients to improve it. For stewing, saw the bone into many pieces and put it into a stewpan, with sufficient water to cover it ; bring it to a boil and take ofl: the scum, this must be done thoroughly, and the meat drawn aside to simmer ; add to it some celery cut into pieces, one good-sized onion, twelve black peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four small carrots, and the same of cloves, or about half a tea-spoonful of allspice ; season with pepper and salt, and let the whole stew very gently for four hours ; boil some carrots and turnips separately, cut them into shapes, and serve with the meat. Probable cost, 7d. per lb. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Beef, Sirloin of, Eoast. It is said by some modem cooks that a joint of meat should be first put near the fire to harden the surface and keep in the juice, and then drawn back from it to roast very slowly. The old mode of cooking differs in this particular of beginning at a distance of aboivt twelve inches from the fire, and gradiially drawing it nearer as the joint approaches to being thoroughly cooked. There is so much to be said in favour of the latter mode, since a joint may be roasted M-ith half the fuel used for the former, that the recipe here given is for the old method. Make choice of a nico sirloin weighing from twelve to fourteen poimds ; dredge it over with flour, and place it on the spit, at a distance of eighteen inches, of cour.se supposing the fire to be large and bright ; (62) BEE liastc unsparingly and sprinkle over it a little suit. When half done draw it a little nearer ; continue to baste, and flour gently with a dredger. The meat should look frothy when served, and this can only be obtained by thorough basting. Give it the usual time a quarter of an hour to a pound ; a little longer if liked very well done, or the weather is frosty and the meat solid. Time, quarter of an hour to each pound. Probable cost of sirloin. Is. per pound. Beef, Sirloin of, Roast (a la St. Florentin). ? Take out thij suet aud lay it thickly over the top of the fillet, secured down with a wellbuttered paper. First tie the flap under the fillet, and make all firm before it is put to the spit. About ten minutes before it is done take oft' the paper and froth the meat by di'edging it lightly with salt and dry floui', and basting it with butter. Serve with Robert Sauce in a tureen. Probable cost of beef, Is. per pound. Beef, Sirloin of. To Carve. A sirloin should be cut with one good firm stroke from end to end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the cut very clean and even from a b to c. Then disengage it from the bone by a SIRLOIN OF BEEF. horizontal cut exactly to the bone, b to d, using the tip of the knife. Bad carving bears the hand away to the rind of the beef, eventually, after many cuts, peeling it back to the other side, leaving a portion of the best of the meat adhering to the bone. Every slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the under side whilst hot, not reckoning it so good cold ; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the mode of carving it. The best way is first of all to remove the fat, e, which chops up well to make puddings, if not eaten at table. Then ttie under part can be cut, as already described, from end to end, f to g, or downwards, as shown by the marks at h. Beef Skirts. These should be broiled they are best so but if liked may be stewed in , a little brown gravy seasoned with a table' spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and another of shalot vinegar, with a thickening of butter and flour. If broiled, serve over spinach or toasts fried and seasoned with pepper and salt. Time to broil, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Beef, Spanish, Frico. Cut up two l ounds of the fillet, rump, or round of beef into pieces weighing about an ounce each, and add cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Boil two l ounds of potatoes and cut them into good thick slices ; place them with the meat and a small cup of grsLvy in a close-fitting stewpan in alternate layers. Add a quarter of a pound of butter and as much Spanish onion, previously boiled and sliced, as may be liked. Stew gently for an hour, and when nearly done throw a glass of Madeira or claret over all. Probable cost, 3s. 3d, Sufiicient for four or five persons. Beef, Spiced. A small round of about eighteen or twenty pounds will take a fortnight to cure. Prepare the following ingredients : one pound of common salt, one ounce of saltpetre, three ounces of allspice, one of black peppercorns, and half a pound of coarse sugar. Pound the saltpetre, allspice, and black peppercorns, and mix well together with the salt and sugar. Rub all into the meat ; do this every day and tm-n, for the time mentioned. Then wash off the brine, put it into an earthenware pan, with about a pint of water and a layer of suet over and under, with a common paste over all ; bake from six to eight hours, and allow it to cool thorouglily before using. Probable cost of meat, lOd. to lid. per pound. Beef steak. Let the steak bo about three-quarters of an inch thick (rump, for broiling, is the best) ; rub the gridiron with a little fat to prevent the meat from sticking, and place it with the steak over a sharp clear fire no smoke, of course ; turn frequently with. a knife or steak tongs, but do not prick the meat with a fork, as the gravy will escape and the meat become hard. Serve in a hot dish with a little mushroom ketchup, or othersauce or gravy at discretion, taking care to put a little butter first, melted over the steak, should it be a lean one. In any case it makes the steak look better. Probable cost. Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Time, eight to ten minutes to broil. Half a pound to each person is considered suificient. When purchasing steak it is well to remember that, when it can be afforded, rump steak or slices from the undercut of the ? sirloin is best for broiling, for pies, for stewing, for beef-tea, indeed, for almost every piu'pose. When these are not to be had, chuck steak is the best for stewing, buttock steak for broiling, and steak from the bladebone or shoulder-piece for pies. The roll of the bladebone is admirably adaj ted for making beef-tea, and beef skirting j-ields very rich gravy. Beef Steak (a la Frangaise). They are best cut from the inner side of the siidoin, but any prime part will do. Place two pounds of steaks in a dish with a little of the best Lucca oil, and let them steep in it for eight or ten hours ; add to them pepper, salt, and a little finely -minced parsley, and fry them until they are brown ; what remains in the pan may be thrown over the steaks. Butter may be substituted for oil if preferred, and the steaks served up around the dish with olive sauce in. the centre. Average cost of beef, Is. 4d. per BEE (C3) BEE pound. Time to fry, from eight to teu minutes. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Beef Steak and Kidney Pudding. Take one pound of rump steak, beat 'and cut it into long strips for rolling, or, if preferred, in pieces about half an inch square. Season well with pepijer and salt, and di'edge over it a little tioxu- ; cut half a pound of beef kidney into thin slices, season in the same way, and lay it with the beef into a basin Kned with a good suet paste, about half an inch thick ; throw in a little water and close over the top securely with paste. Let it boil three houi-s, and keep the saucepan well filled up all the time. A few mushi-ooms or oysters may be put into the pudding, and will be a very great improvement. Cost, rump steak. Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound; kidney, lOd. Sufficient for three or -fouipersons. Beef Steak and Cucumbers. When cucumbers are plentiful this makes an economical and pleasant dish. Peel and slice three or four large cucumbers, and as many onions. Brown them in a frying pan. Beat and fry two pounds of rump steak, then put it on a dish. Simmer the cucumbers and onions in half a pint of good gravy, and pour over the meat. Time, ten minutes to fry if thick. Probable cost of steak. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Beef Steak (a la Mode). Take two pounds of rump steak, beat it till it is tender, lard, and put it into a stewpan with some slices of lemon. Let it cook slowly, and when all the gravy is drawn from it, add a little stock and port wine in equal quantities. Boil slowly until the broth tliickens, and when ready to serve, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per jjoimd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Beef Steak, Fried.- If no gridiron is at hand, put some butter or dripping in a frying-pan and let it boil ; then lay in a steak of half an inch thick and move it continually with the side of a knife or steak-tongs to prevent it from burning. When sufficiently well done on one side, which will be seen by the colour being well spread over the meat, turn it on the other, continuing to move it about with the tongs in a similar manner. If a fork must be used, do not stick it into the juicy part of the meat, but into the fat or edge. When done serve on a hot dish with a little butter (not melted) and some mushroom ketchup, tomato, Or other sauce or gravy as preferred. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Beefsteak, Fried (another way). Cut the steak as for broiling ; on being put into the pan, shift and turn it frequently. Let it be done brown all over, and placed in a hot dish when finished. Gravy may be made by pour- ' ing a little hot water into the pan (after the steak is out, and the fat poured away), with a little pepper, salt, ketchup, and flour; the gravy so formed is to be poured into the dish with the steak; send to table immediately. If onions are required, cut them in thin slices, and fry till they are soft. They should be fried after the steak, and merely with jiart of the fat. Beef Steak Pie. Take a pie-dish according to the size required ; two pounds of fresh rump steak cut into long thin strips will make a good pic ; lay out the strips with a small piece of fat on each, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a dust of flour ; two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper will be sufficient for the whole pie; roll up each sti-ip neatly and lay it in the dish, and between each layer sprinlde a little of the seasoning and flour; a shred onion or eschalot is sometimes liked, and' a few oysters will be a great improvement ; jDut an edging of paste round the dish, and throw in water enough to cover the rolls of meat, and lay a crust of about half an inch thick over all ; ornament the top tastefully, and bake for two houi's in a moderate oven. Cost of steak, Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Steak Pie with Oysters. Three pounds of rump steak will make an excellent pie. Get beef that has been hung for some days, so that the beating process may not be required. Make a seasoning with half a dozen shalots, half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed together, a very little cayenne and pounded cloves, and a table-spoonful of flour as a thickening for the gravy ; divide the meat into pieces of two and a half inches, put a layer in the dish with the seasoning equally distributed, and some large oysters, parboiled and bearded, in alternate layers, tiU aU is used up. Reduce the liquor of the oysters, take equal quantities of it and good gravy to make half a pint, pour it into the pie and cover with the paste. Bake for two hours. Sufficient for seven or eight j)ersons. Beef Steak Pudding Baked. Make a batter with two eggs, three-quarters of a pint of milk, and half a pound of flour, mix smoothly, and pour a little of it into a pie-dish ; season one pound of steak and half a pound of kidney according to taste (they should be cut into smaU pieces) , and lay them on the top of the batter ; fill up the dish with the remainder and bake in a quick oven for about an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Steak, Roasted, and Stuffed. Fry in a little butter the following ingredients, and make a forcemeat of them and two Frencl rolls, which have been previously soaked i; milk; see that the frying-pan is quite clean, and put into it one ounce of butter, a slice of lean ham, well scraped, a bay-leaf, a little minced parsley, two shalots, a clove, two blades of mace, and a few mushrooms. Put the rolls into a stewpan after having squeezed out all the milk, and add to them three or four tablespoonfuls of rich stock; then put half a pint of stock to the ingredients in the frpng-pan. boil for twenty minutes, and strain the liquid into the stewpan over the roUs, place it over the fire and stir in a little butter; when dry keep still stirring : then add the yolks of two eggs to bind it. Have ready two pounds of (64) rump steak, cut thick, season it with, pepper and salt, and roll it up tight with the above forcemeat carefully enclosed, that it may not drop out. Eoast it for one hour and a half before a good, clear fire, basting constantly with butter, and serve with brown gravy. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Beef Steak, Rump. A good rump steak should be about three-quarters of an inch thick, and cut from meat that has hung for a few days to make it tender. Beat it with a small rolling-pin, but do not mash the meat; season well with pepper, and put it on a heated gridii-on, the bars of which have been rubbed with good fat or suet to keep the steak from adhering to them. Be sure the fire is clear before commencing to broil ; turn the steak often. In from eight to ten minutes one of ordinary thickness will be done enough. Have ready a very hot dish on which a shalot, or onion, if preferred, has been rubbed soundly to extract the juice. Slightly warm a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup or other beef sauce, and dish up the meat quickly with some butter on the top, and seasoned ?v\ith pepper and salt. Use quite fresh butter, or it will spoil the flavour of the steak ; and garnish the dish with horse-radish grated. Oyster, onion, or any other sauce liked may be served with it. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Beef Steak and Fried Potatoes. Get steak from the fillet of the siiioin, if possible, and broil it over a clear fire; the steak should be about a third of an inch thick, and turned frequently for five minutes, when it will be sufficiently cooked ; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, with se -en or eight potatoes sliced long and thin, and fry till they become a good brown colour. The butter in which the potatoes were fried should be used to warm up the seasoning, and a tea-spoonful of minced herbs. When ready, put the herbs imder the steak and garnish with the potatoes. Allow half a pound of steak for each person. Beef, Stewed, and Celery Sauce. Simmer three heads of celery and two onions in, in thick pieces, two pounds of cold boiled, or in a pint of good gravy till all is tender, then put roast beef, and stew gently for ten or twelve minutes. The celery should be cut evenlyin pieces of about two inches long. Serve with potatoes sliced and fried crisp. Average cost, 8d., exclusive of meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, Stewed, as Hare. len hare cannot be obtained, a good substitute for it will be found in a piece of rump of beef of suitable size. Take four or five pounds, which cut into pieces of about three ounces. Di\dde into slices half a pound of bacon, and another half pound into dice, without the skin. Prepare a seasoning of the following ingredients: A few sprigs of parsley cut small, the rind of half a lemon minced, a blade of mace, half a nutmeg grated, and a good flavouring of salt and pepper. Dust some flour over the beef and fry in butter until it becomes light bro'wn; do this over a quick fire that the meat may be only slightly cooked, then lay the slices of bacon, as a lining, round the stewpan ; put in the beef and diced bacon in layers, with the seasoning equally distributed, and add a large onion stuck with half a dozen cloves. Make a gravy with the butter in the pan, a little broth and half a pint of ale ; throw it over the meat, close the lid, and stew over a very gentle fire from three to four hours. Thicken the gravj' with flour and add a glass of Madeira. Probable cost of beef. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beef, Stewed, and Oyster Sauce. Take two pounds of cold beef, cut into slices, and broil them over a clear fire. Put one dozen and a half oysters into a stewpan with their own liquor, remove them in about two minutes, and strain the liquor. Mix equal quantities of butter and floui- together, one ounce of each; take the liquor and milk, enough to make one pint, stii- aU together in a saucepan till it boils, then remove it and stir in another ounce of butter, and add the oysters. Warm them, but do not allow them to boil. Serve with the beef. Time, five minutes to warm. Probable cost of oysters, Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. per dozen. Sufficient for foiupersons. Beef, stewed (French method). Take two pounds of rump steak, beat it to make it tender, and lard it thi-oughout. Stew it for four or five hours over a slow fire with equal quantities of white wine and water, and some small pieces of a leg of veal. Season with spice, salt, garlic, thyme, and parsley. When the meat is tender, strain the broth, put it back into the pan, and boil till it becomes thick; then serve poured over the beef steak. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Beef, Stewed (Irish method). Divide two pounds of beef into small pieces any part will do and put them into an earthenware pan with a light-fitting cover, with a pint and a half of water, two or three onions, a carrot cut up, and a little salt and pepper. Stew all together in the oven for an hour or more. Lay on the top some peeled potatoes, cover up and put it back into the oven for an hour and a half more, when the potatoes will be reduced to a mash, and the stew will be, as all Irish stews are, excellent. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. {See Irish Stew). Beef Stewed in Beer. Take eight pounds of the silver-side of the round, hang it some days as the weather will permit to make it tender. Beat it with a rolling-pin, and then put it into a stewpan with a liquid composed of part mild beer and water, to nearly cover the meat. Add a few slices of bacon, two onions, some cloves, a bay-leaf, a small cup of -inegar, a tablcrspoonful of treacle, and the same of any sauce, according to taste. Let it simmer for three hours ; remove the scum as it rises, and when done, take out the beef on a dish, strain and thicken the gravy; add pepper and salt, and throw aU over the meat. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. BEE (6.5 ) Beef, Stewed, Leg of. Make a forcemeat of one pound and a quarter of finely-shred suet, some siivoury and marjoram, a few cloves pounded, and a little pepper and salt, mixing all well together. Make several good -sized holes in a part of a leg of beef (about six or seven pounds will do) , that has had salt rubbed over it for two or three days previous, and fill them \dth the forcemeat. Put it into a deep baking- pan with some of the forcemeat over the top, and the pan more than half full of water. Keep the pan closely covered, and let the meat stew for four hours. The forcemeat from the top will serve to garnish, and may be cut into any form for the pui'pose. That pressed into the meat, if lightly put in, ?will much improve the flavour. Probable cost, 7d. per poimd. iSuflicient for seven or eight persons. Beef Stock. Bone a rimip of beef and tie it neatly together ; break the bones and place both into a stewpan with two quarts of water to every three pounds of meat. Heat it very gradually and slowly b)'' the side of the fire, remo\'ing the scum before and after it boils. Add salt in proportion to the water, about two ounces to the gallon. When all the scum has been removed, thi'ow in thi'ce or four can-ots, and the same of turnips, a small head of celery, a few young leeks, an onion stuck -ndth eight cloves, a small tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a bimch of savoui-y herbs. Let this stew for five hours verj' gently, when the beef will be done, but not overdone. It may be served with young cabbages, boiled in the usual way, pressed, and then stewed for seven or eight minutes in some of the beef stock or broth. This broth, in Fi-ance, is made the basis of all coups and gravies, and with the addition of a knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings, a calf's foot, and a little ham, it will make a strong rich stock. If wanted to be used at the same time with the meat, strain, remove the fat, and serve with toasted bread. Beef Suet for Piecrust. Shred some suet and clear it from all skin and fibre, put it into a basin, cover it with boiling water, and place it on a hot plate, or near the fire. AMien melted, pass it through a strainer into another vessel containing boiling water, and when cold, pierce the fat and let the water run out. If any sediment remain it will be found on the imderside of the caked fat, and can be scraped off with a knife. Suet thus prepared, with the addition of a little lard or oil, can be worked into the consistency of butter, and may be used with success in making crusts for meat pies. Dripping may be cleansed in the same manner. Its adaptation to many purposes v.dll depend on the management in clarif j-ing, &c. Beef Tea. Take a pound of lean, fleshy beef, put it into a basin containing one quart of cold water, first cutting it into very small bits ; let it soak in this water an hour or more, then put both water and beef into a clean saucepan and bring it to a boil ; put in a little salt and take off the scum as it appears ; simmer very gently, and strain for use in little less than an hour. WTien warmed up again, it should not be put into a saucepan, but heated by setting the cup of tea into boiling water. Cost, about Is. 4d. per quart. Beef Tea (another way). Use for this, not an iron saucepan, but an earthen pot with a well-fitting hd, which \'iU stand, without cracking, the heat of the iron plate on the top of the cooking-stove. Fill it from one-third to a quarter full of good lean beef, cut into shapely pieces the size of a small walnut, in order that they may be presentable afterwards in a ratatouille, or as potted beef, seasoning slightly with salt and a few whole peppercorns. Then poiu- on cold water nearly to the brim, and set it on the plate or top of a cooking-stove to simmer gently several hours, taking off any scum and fat that may rise. The beef is not to be overdone, but is to be left in the pot until all the strength from it has been extracted. Stir A\-ith a spoon before serv'ing a portion, in order to have the nutritious particles which have sunk to the bottom suspended in the tea. yhere there is no cooking-stove, the beef tea may be slowly cooked by setting the earthen pot containing it in a large iron vessel of boihng water, or, if the lid is luted do-\vn ??ath paste, it may be made in a very slow oven. Beef Tea from Fresh Meat (Baron LiEBiG s Eecipe). Take one pound of lean beef, entirely free from fat and sinew ; mince it finely and mix it well with one pint of cold water. Put it on the hob, and let it remain heating very gradually for two hours. At the end of that time, add half a tea-spoonful of salt and boil gently for ten minutes. Eemove the scum as it rises. This is beef tea pure and simple. When a change of flavour is required, it is a good plan to take one pound of meat composed of equal parts of veal, mutton, and beef, and proceed as above. Or, instead of using water, boil a carrot, a turnip, an onion, and a clove, in a pint of water, and when the flavour is extracted strain the Hquid through a fine sieve ; let it get quite cold, and pour it upon the minced meat, soaking and boiling it for the same time Probable cost. Is. per pint. Sufficient for one pint of beef tea. Beef Tea of Mixed Meat. To some invalids the taste of beef tea is unwelcome ; the flavour is much improved by the following mixture : Take equal quantities of beef, mutton, and veal, one pound of each, -without fat, put them, cut up in small pieces, to simmer four hours in three pints of water. "WTien boiling, skim thoroughly and draw the saucejjan aside, that it may only extract the juices without wasting the liquid. Strain and serve with dry toast in any form. Time, four hours. Cost of meat, about Is. per pound. Beef Tea, Strong. Allow two pounds of lean meat to one quart of water, put it into a jar and place it in a pan of boiling water. The meat should be well cut up, and the top of the jar secured so that no water may enter. Boil gently for four or five hours, strain and squeeze out all the tea. This may be flavoured with onion, clove, &c., according to the taste of the invalid and strength of the stomach. Sufficient to make a pint of tea. Beef to imitate Venison. Take three pounds of rump, sirloin, or mutton, without bone the loin is best. Lay it in a pan and throw BEE (CG) BEE over it one glass of vinegar and a glass of port wine, having previously rubbed it with four ounces of sugar. Keep in a cool, di-y place, and turn it often. In five or six days it will be ready ; then make a raised crust, season with salt, cayenne, and mace, put some butter over the top of the cover, and bake four hours in a slow oven. Boil down the bones to make gravy, add a glass of port wine, strain, and pom- boiling into the pie. Probable cost of meat, Is. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Beef Tongue { ee Bullock's Tongue ; Ox Tongue) . Beef Tripe, To Boil. Cvit the tripe into small pieces and put into hot milk and water, equal parts, sufficient to cover it, and boil imtil tender, which will be in about two hom'S. Get ready some onion sauce, prepared as given below, and when the tripe is dished throw it over. Peel some onions and let them remain a few minutes in salted water ; then boil them till tender, changing the water when haK done. If Spanish onions are used it will not be necessary. Drain them thoroughly, chop them, and add to them some sauce composed of two ounces of butter, three-quarters of a pint of milk, and a tea-spoonfiil of flour. Put the onions to the butter and boil for a minute before adding to the tripe. Cost, about 8d. per pound. Beef Tripe, To Fricassee. Stew gently in milk and water, two pounds of tripe, cut into, strips of equal lengths, with a bunch of parsley and an onion. When it has simmered one hour add the peel of half a lemon, an ounce of butter rubbed in flour, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Season with grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and when it has simmered another hour serve with the sauce over, and an edging of rice round the dish. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef Tripe, To Roast. Boil two pounds of tripe for an hour or more, and then cut into convenient-sized pieces. Spread them out, and lay over each a rich veal stuffing. Skewer and tie securely into roUs. Baste continually -wdth butter, and dredge flour over them. They may either be spitted or baked in an oven. Serve with sliced lemon and mimelted butter. Probable cost, 8d. per pound for the best tripe. Time to roast, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Beef, with. Sauce Espagnole. Lard a piece of the inside fillet (from four to five pounds vill be a nice size) and lay it seasoned ath salt and pepper in vinegar for ten or twelve hours. Put it immediately to roast before a quick fire, baste well with butter and the di-ippings from the meat. When done, glaze over the top, and serve with the above sauce, garnished with boiled Spanish onions. Time to roast, one hour. Beef, witli Wine Sauce Tremtolant. Hang a piece of rump (it should not be a small piece), or part of a brisket, for some days ; then simmer it in a stewpan with some allspice, a carrot, two onions, two turnips, and salt to taste, for five or six honrs. Dissolve a piece of butter in a clean ste\vpan, and mix into it a dessert-spoonful of flour. Add one quart of gravy, a glassful of white wine, and equal quantities of ketchup and browning. Then cut up two carrots and two turnips, flavour all with salt and pepjier, and stew until the vegetables are quite tender. Put the meat on a dish, and pom- all, first clearing it from any fat, over it. The meat may be glazed or browned with a salamander, before the sauce is poured over. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Beef, with. Yorkshire Pudding. Take eggs, flour, and milk, according to the size of the pudding required. Allow an egg to every heaped table-spoonf id of flom-, and salt to taste. Trim it to a proper consistency with good new milk ; it should be thinner than for boiled batter. If this pudding be not required for a large family a separate compartment may be used for it, and the other part of the dripping-pan may receive the gravy required to throw over the meat. In. any case, place the di-ipping-pan and joint to the fire till the fat begins to flow, before the batter is put in, and stir it round in the basin that no sediment may remain. See that it cooks evenly and that the edges are not burned, and when done sufficiently turn if liked. Some prefer it browned on one side only. The usual thickness is about an inch when well bro \ led on both sides. Divide into pieces sufficient for each person, and send it to table quickly. It should be put into the dripping just in time to get it done with the meat. Time, one and a half to two hours. Beer, How to Treat "Foxed." "Foxed" beer has a rank unpleasant taste, and may be known by the white specks floating on its sm-face. To remedy this, infuse a handful of hops and a little salt of tartar in a pint of boiHng water, and, when cold, strain and pour into the cask, closing the bunghole at once. Beer Soup (German method). Simmer two quarts of mild beer (it should not be bitter) with the thin rind of a lemon, a few cloves, and a stick of cinnamon, sweeten with sugar, and add it thi'ough a sieve to the yolks of six wellbeaten eggs and half a pint of cream. Whilst pouring into the tureen, stir it to a froth with a wire whisk. The beer should be very hot, without boiling, before it is stirred with the eggs. Serve hot with toast. Time, about half an hour- to simmer. Probable cost, 9d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Beer Soup with Caraway Seeds. Boil some brown bread in si little water until soft enough to be beaten to a smooth pulp ; put three pints of beer into the soup kettle with a httle lemon-peel, cinnamon, sugar, and a large tea-spoonful of caraway seeds ; mix the breadpulp to the beer, and boil aU together till the flavour is extracted from the seeds ; then beat up four eggs in the tureen, and pom- the soup upon them, stirring briskly all the time. Serve hot. Time to boil the beer, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Beer Soup with Milk. Take equal quantities of beer and milk (one quart of each) :* BEE (67 ) BER mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with a little of the beer, and add it to the remainder with the grated peel of half a lemon, half a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, cinnamon, or nutmeg, and sugar to tf te ; boil the milk separately and stir it rapidly with a whisk into four well-beaten eggs ; put the beer with the milk into a saucepan, bring it to the point of boiling, keeping it well stirred all the time, and turn it quiciily into a tm-een. Serve with toasted rolls. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 9d. per quart. Sufficient for twelve persons. Beer Soup with Sago. Wash two ounces of sago in cold water, drain and boil it in three pints of ale that is not bitter, add a stick of cinnamon or a few cloves, the thin rind of haK a lemon, and sugar to taste ; boil twenty minutes, strain, and add, just before serving, the half of a thinly-sliced lemon and a glass of brandy or rum. Probable cost, lOd., without the spii-its. Sufficient for sLx or seven persons. Beer, To remove acidity from. Add one pint of ground malt to about eighteen gallons of beer ; it should be enclosed in a bag and hung, not thrown, to lie at the bottom ; or, mix as much wheat or bean flour with a quart of brandy as will form a dough. Long pieces of this dough, put into the bunghole, will sink gently to the bottom and keep the beer mellow as well as improve its quality. Carbonate of soda will remove sourness from beer, but care should be taken not to add too much or it will have a dead insipid flavour. Beetroot, Baked. Cleanse the root carefully from ?the mould about it, as du-ected for boiling, and bake in a moderate oven until tender. We do not, however, like the baking of this vegetable, as it is apt to shrivel if exposed to too great heat in an oven, and the colour becomes less bright. They are much better boiled. Probable cost, Id. to 2d. Bake till tender. Beetroot, Boiled. This root is excellent as a salad, and, as a garnish for other salads, it is very important on account of its beautiful bright colour. In cleansing it before boiling, take care not to break the skin or it will lose its colour and become sickly looking. Remove it from the saucepan carefully, peel and trim nicely. Serve, cut in slices, with melted butter in a tureen, or if not over large it may be sent to table whole. A large one will take from two to three hours to boil. Probable cost from Id. to 2d. each. Beetroot, Pickled. Boilhalf an ounce of peppercorns, cloves, mace, and ginger, in a pint of vinegar, add another pint when cold. Take six beetroots, after they have been well cleansed, and boil them gently for two hours. Vhen cold, peel, slice, and put into a jar with the cold vinegar and spice. It is fit for use at once. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Beetroot Preserve. Put into a presei-ving pan half a dozen nicely-peeled beetroots and a pint and a half of cold water, first cuting away the long tapering part, that they may lie better in the pan ; let them come to a boil, and then simmer and skim for twenty minutes ; add the following ingredients and boil faster for an hour more. Four- pounds of good loaf sugar, well broken, the juice of half a dozen lemons (strained), and the peel of four, cut very small, some vanilla and cinnamon' about half a finger's length of eacli, and thi-ee or four cloves. When boiling, skim well, and when qmte tender put the beetroots into a jar, but leave the syrup to boil until it is tliick, when it may be strained over them. "\\Tien a beautiful colour is wanted for creams, jellies, ?fcc., this preserve and sjTup will be found valuable. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Beetroot Salad. To some nicely-boiled and well-sUced beetroot, lay alternate rows of boiled onion also sliced, and pour ovej.- them any salad sauce, or simply oil and \dnegar, if preferred. Garnish with cixrled parsley. Probable cost of beetroot. Id. to 2d. Instead of the raw onions, cold boiled ones may be used, together with slices of egg, hard boiled. Beetroot Salad (another way). Parboil a beetroot, remove the skin, cut it into thin slices, and stew with small onions in a little gravy thickened with flour and cream. Add a dessertspoonful of vinegar, seasonings, and a little sugar. Spread the sliced beetroot on the dish, placing the onions between them. It is served cold with cheese, and with vinegar poured over. Beetroot Soup. Cleanse carefully, boil, and peel two ,fine beetroots ; boil also two onions and mince them together very finely. Take three or four table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one of brown sugar, with rather more than haK a gallon of good gravy soup ; add this to the mixture of beetroot and onion, and jDut it into a saucepan to boil, when some small pieces of cold veal or other meat, weU covered with floui', may be boiled and served up in it. Probable cost, without gravy, 6d. Time to boil, until the onions are tender. Beetroot, Stewed. Wash and boil, tni tender, a medium-sized beetroot. Remove the skin, and cut it into thin slices. Roll half an ounce of butter in flour, and melt it in rather more than haK a pint of water, adding a table spoonful of vinegar, and salt and pepi er to taste. Put the slices of beet into the liquid, cover the saucepan closely, and allow all to stew for an hour and ten minutes. Care must be taken not to cut the beetroot before boiling, as the colour would be destroyed by so doing. Serve the stew with a garnish of boiled button onions. Bermuda Pudding. Reduce haK a pound of Brazil nuts to a paste, in a mortar; beat up six fresh eggs ; whip six ounces of butter to a cream, and mix the three ingredients together, with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and a wine-glassful of brandy. "VSTien this mixture has been beaten from fifteen to twenty minutes, make a paste as follows, and prepare a buttered mould to receive it : Beat six ounces of fresh butter to a cream ; add to it two well-beaten eggs, four ounces of dried flour, and equal quantities of rice flour and finely-sKted sugar (one ounce of each) . When well kneaded, line the mould and put in the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven. It may BER ( 68) BIS be eaten either hot or cold. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. SuiJicient for five or six persons. Bermuda Witches. Spread strawberry, raspliL'iiv, apple jelly, or pi-eserve of any kind witliout Ktones, over slices of Savoy or rice cake, which must be cut exceedingly thin and even. Spread unsparingly over the preserve finelj'-grated cocoa-nut ; cover over with a similar slice of cake, and after pressing all together, cut them into any fomi desii-ed. The square form is generally thought most suitable, and each slice of cake may be divided into the size desired before the preserve is put on, but they will always require some trimming. Send them to table arranged prettily on a napkin, and garnished with myrtle sprigs. Bernese Pudding. Beat up the yolks and whites of two eggs with a quarter of a pint of milk, and add two ounces of very fine bread-crumbs and the same quantity of flour ; take a quarter of a pound of suet, finely shred, tlie same of mixed candied peel, chopped, the rind and juice of a lemon, the quarter of a small nutmeg grated, and equal quantities of sugar and currants. Mix these ingredients for ten minutes, and put them aside for an hour. Stir all round, pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and lay a floured cloth over the top. Place it in boiling water and boil for three hours and a half. Serve with sugar over the top. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Beverages, Refreshing Summer. Peel, core, and quarter some apples, and boil them in water until they can be mashed through a colander ; one poimd of apples to a gallon of water -sN-ill bo an economical and pleasant drinlv, and when boiled up again, with the addition of half a pound of brown sugar, and well skimmed, may be bottled for use. The bottles should not be corked tight. A piece of bread very much toasted, and added to the above, is recommended for invalids. For a spring drink, having very cooling properties, rhubarb should be boiled as above, adding a little more sugar, or, one gallon of cold water added to three lemons, sliced and bruised, with half a pound of sugar. For a summer beverage, a mixture of red cuiTants and raspberries bruised, with half a pound of sugar and well stirred into a gallon of water, vill be found excellent to allay thirst ; and to render them more cooling, a little cream of tartar or citric acid may be added. Biffins. These apples are prepared by exposure to a very gentle heat, and the process is long. They require to be put into a cool oven many times, perhaps seven or eight, and to be pressed after each baking. If the oven be too hot at first, the biffins will waste, and the pressing must be slowly and gently done. The Red Biffin or Minshul Crab are the sorts selected for drying. They should be stewed either in milk or wine. Birch Wine. This wine is sometimes made simply by boiling the sap of the birchtree with sugar and adding a little lemon-peel. Where other ingredients are added, the quantity of sugar is lessened. Allow throe pounds of sugar, one of raisins, and an ounce of ahnonds, to each gallon of sap. Boil all together half an hour and skim ; put it into a tub with some fresh yeast as soon as it has become cold, and in four or five days after it has fennented strain off into a cask. Tie up some almonds in a muslin bag, put them with the wine until it has done fermenting, when they must be removed and the cask closed up for four or five months. It must then be racked off and bottled for use. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. a gallon. Bird's Nest Pudding. Make the foundation of the nest of blancmange, calf's foot jelly, or prepared com. Rasp the rinds of three lemons and lay it round and on the blancmange like the straw. Take out the contents of four eggs through a small hole, and fill the shells with hot blancmange, or prepared corn ; when cold, break off the shells, and lay the egg-shaped blancmange in the nest. V Birthday Syllabub. Take of port and sherry each a pint, mix them with half a pint of brantly and a nutmeg grated ; squeeze and strain the juice of two lemons into a large bowl and over haK a pound of loaf sugar well broken into small pieces ; stir the wine mixture into the bowl with the lemon -juice and sugar, and add new milk to it, or, if possible, milE the cow iato it. This quantity of wine, &c., is sufficient for two quarts of milk. Probable cost, about Is. 3d., -wdthout the wine and brandy. Biscuit Drops. Beat up eight eggs with two pounds of finely-sifted sugar, and haK a pint of water, or sherry if preferred. Beat this mixture for half an hour, and then add it to two poiinds of the best flour and some powdered caraway seeds, beat another half hour and drop them on buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven. Time, twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Biscuit Powder. Biscuits may be reduced to a fine powder, by first drj-ing them in a cool oven, and then rolling them with a common rolling-pin on a clean board. This kind of powdered biscuit is much used for infants' food. It should be passed through a sieve after rolUng, and will then be fine enough for any pm-pose. Keej) dry in a tin with a tight cover. Biscuits. Recipes for preparing the following varieties of biscuits will be found under their respective headings : Abeknethy Dover Albert Fixger Almond Spice Fruit American German Arrowroot Ginger Bread, Brown Ladies' Wine Breakfast Leman's Captains Lemon Caraway Lemon Rock Chocolate Macaroons Cinnamon Majesty's Cream Milan Crisp Naples Damascts Peach De.ssert Potato Devilled Pudding BIS (69) BLA Raspbeury Sugar Ratafia Swabian ElCE Sweet Rock Swiss Russian Tea Savoy Venetian Sicilian Victoria SOUA Vienna Spanish "Wafer Spice Nuts Water Sponge Wine. Biscuits, Hard. Warm half a pound of butter in as much skimmed milk as will make foxir pounds of flour into a very stiff paste. Beat it with a rolling-pin, and work it until it becomes perfectly smooth. Roll it very thin, and cut into biscuits with a tin shape or a large cup. Prick them freely with a fork, and bake for six or eight minutes in a moderate oven. Biscuits, Plain. Make one pound of flour into a stiff paste with the yolk of an egg well beaten in a httle milk. Too much milk will make the biscuits thin and heavy. Beat the paste and knead till smooth. Roll out thin, and with a round tin-cutter foim into biscuits. Bake in a slow oven. Time, twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Bishop Oxford Nightcap. Take two drachms each of cloves, mace, ginger, cinnamon, and allspice, boil them for thirty nunutes in half a pint of water, and strain. Put part of a bottle of port in a saucepan over the fire, add the spiced infusion and a roasted lemon stuck with si.x cloves. Take four ounces of sugar in lumps and grate the outer rind of a small lemon, place them in a punch-bowl, and add the juice of the lemon, pour in the hot \\-ine, &c., then the remainder of the bottle of port, and serve. A Seville orange may be roasted instead of a lemon. Blackberry Jam. This will be found a cheap and wholesome preserve, and if mixed with apples wiU be greatly relieved of the insipid flatness fiequently complained of. Any sharp-flavoured apple will do, but the Wellington or Dumeloro's seedling is particularly recommended for this purpose. Blackberries alone require haK their weight in sugar, and three-quarters of an hour to boil, but when mixed with apples more sugar must be given. Blackberry Syrup. Press out the juice from very rijie blackberries, and to each pint add one pound of brown sugar boiled in a pint of water to a rich sjTup ; allow it to boil for fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring it well ; put a wine-glassful of brandy to each quart. When quite cold bottle for use. Probable cost, without brandy, Is. 6d. per quart. _ Blackberry Wine. Put any quantity of blackberries into a jar or pan, cover them with boiling water, and allow them to stand in a cool oven all night to draw out the juice ; or they may be mashed with the hand. Strain through a sieve into a jar or cask, and let it ferment for fifteen days. Then add one pound of sugar to every gallon of juice, with a quarter of a pint of gin or brandy. The berries should be gathered ripe and on a fine dry day. Probable cost of blackberries, from 8d. to Is. per gallon. Black Cap Pudding. Make a good batter pudding. Pick and wash a quarter of a pound of currants, which lay at the bottom of a mould previously well buttered; pour the batter in over them and boil two houi-s. When turned out the currants will be on the top ; this forms the black cap. Probable cost of custard per pint, 7d. Black Caps {see Apj le Black Caps). Black Cock, Boasted. This bird is hard, diy, and flavom'less, if not well hung; but the flavour is remarkably fine when it has been kept until it shows some little symptom of having been hung enough. Pick and draw, but do not wash the inside ; a dry cloth will be all that is necessary. Truss it like a fowl. Some like the head under the wing, but the foi-mer mode is most general. Place it before a biisk fire, and baste unsparingly with butter till done. It will take nearly one hour, if a fine male bird, but three-quarters of an hour will be enough for one of moderate size. Dip a piece of thick toast into a little lemon -juice, and lay it in the dripping-pan under the bird ten minutes before it is to be taken from the fire. Serve with the toast imder, and a rich brown gravy and bread sauce. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. per brace. Black Cock, Stewed. Joint the black cock in the same way as an ordinary fowl, and fry in plenty of butter until nicely bro vTied, with a clove of garlic, which should bo removed before the stewing is commenced. Put a small wine-glassful of stock and two of port wine, and a seasoning of salt and pepper into the frpngpan with the butter, make a nice gravy, then put the black cock into a stewpan, throw the gravy over, and simmer very gently about half an hour, or until tender. Serve the meat high on the dish, and the gravy with sippets of toast around it. Old birds are best done in this way ; they require more time. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. per brace. Black Currant Cheese. Gather the fruit on a dry day, and Avhen the sun is on it. See that it is quite ripe, and remove the stalks and tops. Take equal quantities, by weight, of good loaf sugar the best is the cheapest and of currants ; place them in a preserving-pan over a slow fire, or by the side of the fire, till the sugar has dissolved a little, then bring it gradually to a boil, stirring it carefully all the time, and remo ang the scum. Simmer for an hour or more, when the currants may be passed through a hair sieve, and it is ready for putting into moulds for use. Probable cost, about Is. 3d. per pound. Black Currant Geneva Liquor, Get a large stone jar, with a small mouth, break some sugar-candy into small pieces, and put one pound of candy to each quart of fruit into it. Add two or thi-ee cloves and a pint and a haK of gin; cork the jar tightly and BLA BLA shako it often for the first month or so. I be fit for use in about six weeks, and shou clear when poured off. The cm-rants shouia oe gathered after two successive dry days, and they ought to be thoroughly, but not over ripe. Probable cost of currants, about 8d. per quart. Black Currant Jam. The fruit should be gathered on a fine day, and should be ripe and well freed from the stalks and tops. Put equal quantities of fine ripe currants and loaf or brown sugar into a preserving-pan, and allow it to stand near, or by the side of the fire, until the sugar has dissolved, then stir it and bring it to the boil. It must be well skimmed and will require greater attention on this head if brown sugar be used instead of loaf. Simmer for an hour, and put into pots for use. Probable cost, 8d. per ordinary jam pot. Black Currant Jelly. To every pint of juice nljtaiuL'J, after prrs.sing and straining, from wcU-iiponed fruit, allow one poiind of loaf sugar. AVhen the juice has come to the boil, skim well and add the sugar; stir the jelly steadily till all the sugar has disappeared, and boil, not simmer, for thi-ee-quarters of an hour. If not thick enough, which may be ascertained by dropping some on a cold plate, boil a little longer. When cold put into jDots for use, and fasten do-mi with paper made to adhere to the pots Avith white of c g. Probable cost, from 8d. to lOd. per half pound I)ot. Black Currant Lozenges. Mix two ounces of brown sugar with half a pint of black currant juice. Put the liquid into an enamelled saucepan, add a table-spoonful of dissolved isinglass, and let it simmer gently for threequarters of an hour. Pour it over small plates in layers about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and let these plates be kept in a screen, a cool oven, or any warm place until the mixture is dry and hard, then take it off, keej) it in a tin box with a sheet of paper between each layer, and stamp it into shapes as required. These lozenges are very palatable and excellent for coughs, colds, and sore thi-oats. Probable cost, 4d. per ounce. Black Currant Pudding. Butter a basin and line it with pudding paste. To a pint and a half of fruit mix six ounces of sugar. The currants should be dry or they will make too much juice. Mix the sugar well up with the fruit before it is put iato the basm ; boil one hour and a half. Or a pudding may be baked in this way : Stew for about quarter of an hour, in as much milk as will cover it, a tea-cupful of rice made sweet with two ounces of sugar. Take care it does not burn, and when done and nearly cool, stir in an ounce of butter and three well-beaten eggs with three table-spoonfuls of cream. Lay some currants in a pie-dish, add sugar (they require a good deal), and tlrrow the mixture over them. Bake at once for half an hour ; one hour to cook the friiit will be sufiicient. May be used hot or cold. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. k Currant Preserve. Dry hly, cut oft' the heads and stalks and puL Liic black currants into a preser\Tng-pan with some red cuixant juice, half a pint to a pound of the black currants, and a pound and a half of good sifted loaf sugar. Make it boil up, remove the scum, carefully scraping off the fruit from the sides of the pan. Shake it but do not mash the currants. Allow it to boil from ten to fifteen minutes. Put into jars, and when cool cover closely. It is fit for tarts or excellent with cream. Probable cost, Cd. to 8d. per haK pound pot. Black Currant Tart. Put a pint and a half of black currants and three ounces of brown sugar into a tart-dish, lay a deep saucer in the bottom to hold the juice, or it will run over and spoil the appearance of the tart ; put a neat edging of paste round the dish, and also cover it over the top. Ornament according to taste, and bake in a brisk oven. Wlien sent to table, powdered white sugar should be sprinkled thickly over the top. Time, thi-ee-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. ( Black Currant Wine. Put equal quantities of currant juice and water into a cask Avith thi-ee pounds and a half of sugar to two gallons of the mixture, and place it in a warm place. When it has fermented, take off the refuse ; keep the cask filled up with juice, and add a quart of brandy to every six gallons directly the fermentation ceases. The cask must then be closed up for eight or nine months, when it may be bottled off ; but it will not be fit for use until it has been at least twelve months in bottle. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. per gallon. Black Lozenges. Take half a pound of gum tragacanth in powder ; add four ounces of powdered loaf sugar and five ounces of extract of liquorice. Make into a smooth paste with water, roll out thin, cut into diamond-shaped lozenges, and dry in a cool place. Black Pudding. Well cleanse and steep pigs' entrails in cold water, until they are required. To one pint of fresh-di-awn pigs' blood, take three pints of onions ; chop them very fine, and cook them till they are nearly or three-quarters done, in a saucepan, with the least drop of water at the bottom, stirring them all the while, to prevent them browning. Take two pounds of fresh pork, without bone, fat and lean in equal proportions ; chop it up fine. Mix well together the minced pork, the onions, and the pigs' blood, seasoning with salt, pepper, and allspice, or mixed spices ground together. Tie one end of a sausage-skin, and, by means of a funnel or sausage-stuffer, fill it at the other with the mixed ingredients. Fasten the upper end of the pudding, coil it into the desired shape, or tie it into short lengths, and throw it into boiling water, which must be kept boiling for twenty or twenty-five minutes, according to the thickness of the pudding. Take it out, and set it aside to cool ; keep in cold water until it is wanted for use. So prepared, it will keep good two or three days in BLA (71 ) BLA summer, a week in -winter. When wanted to serve, broil gently over a slow fire ; but this requires great care, to prevent the skin from cracking. The best way is to set it for a few minutes in the oven of a cooking-stove, or in a Dutch or American oven, in front of an open kitchen-range. Black Puddings (another way). Boil and diy three-quarters of a pound of rice; cut away all the crust from a quartern loaf, and throw two quarts of new milk on it. When the milk is absorbed by the bread, mix it with the rice, and a quart of blood from a freshkilled pig. Have ready a seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, and ground ginger (a quarter of an ounce of each), a table-spoonful of onion and chopped thyme, the same of salt, half the quantity of black pepper, and a dozen cloves, all pounded ; add these, with two poimds of wellshred suet and five or six well-beaten eggs, to the rice. ]Mix all well together, and add about two pounds of the inner fat of a pig cut into dice. \Vhen the ingi-edients are sufficiently blended press into sausage-skins, which must be only partly filled, to allow the meat to swell, so as to i revent birrsting. Straw is generally laid in the bottom of the boiler, and the puddings are pricked, tied into links, and boiled for at least one hour. When taken up they must be laid out on a cloth to dry, and then hung up for use. To warm, lay them in boiling water in a deep dish, and then toast before the fire or on a gridiron. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for twelve large puddings. Black Puddings (a la Fran aise). Mince four large onions verj' finej and stew them in lard with a tea-spoonful of minced parsley, pepper, salt, and allspice to taste, and a quarter of a pound of pork fat, cut into small dice. Stir two pints of pigs' blood while hot, with a little vinegar, a table-spoonful to a quart to prevent clotting, and mix it well with the seasoning. Fill the skins and divide them by strings into the length wished ; they may be stewed for twenty minutes, or merely thrown into boiling water tiU tinn. To try if they are sufficiently done, a large needle is used : if only fat flows they may be hung up to dry; they should then be rubbed over with butter, and tied up in a muslin bag, to give them a glossy appearance. When used they should be boiled long enough to heat them through, or cut into slices and fried. Blanch, To. To blanch meat or vegetables is to plunge them into boiling water for a given length of time, generally two or three minutes ; then throw them into a bowl of spring water and leave them until cold. With meat this is done for the purpose of gi -ing firmness to the flesh, and thus facilitating the operation of larding, and also to preserve the whiteness of certain meats, such as rabbits or fowls. With vegetables it is done to keep them green, and to take away their acrid flavour. Ox tongues, palates, and almonds, fruit kernels, &c., are said to be blanched, when through the action of hot water the skin can be easily peeled off; calves' heads and feet are blanched to soften them, and thus make them easier to trim and prepare for cooking, and for this the cold water is not required. Blancmange. Blanch ten (only) bitter and two ounces of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste, adding by degrees a third of a pint of cold water ; let it stand till settled, and strain off the liquid. Put into a pint +f milk five ounces of loaf sugar, two inches of stick vanilla, and two of cinnamon, and pour it into an enamelled saucepan. Boil slowly till the sugar is dissolved, then stir in one ounce of isinglass, and strain all into a basin; add the liquid from the almonds, with a gill of cream. AVhen cold, pour the mixture into a mould and place it in a cool place till it is firmly set. Probable cost, about 2s. Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Blancmange (another way). Dissolve in-a saucepan, over a gentle fire, two ounces of the best isinglass in two pints of new milk. Add the rind of a lemon and a pint of cream ; boil for a quarter of an hour and take out the rind. Sweeten, and flavour either with cinnamon, I rose, or orange-flower water, or vanilla. 'NVhile cooling, stir in a little white wine and brandy, ! pour into moulds, and allow it to become fixed I in a cool place. j Blancmange (another way). Dissolve one ounce of isinglass, or gelatine, and pour over ! it a quart of boiling milk. Stir till quite disj solved. Take the whites of four eggs, well beaten, and sugar to taste ; two oimces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, pounded; scald them in the jelly, allowing it to. simmer until reduced to haK. Strain into a mould, and turn out next day. Gramish with flowers and blanched sweet almonds. I Blancmange, American. Mix one j ounce of arrowroot with a tea-cupful of cold I water, and let it stand som+e minutes, until the I arrowroot is settled. Pour oft' the water, and I substitute a little orange-flower or laurel water. I Boil with a pint of new milk, a stick of ciiuiaI mon, the thinly-cut rind of a lemon, or any j seasoning that may be prefen-ed. Pour it when ] boiling upon the arrowroot, stirring aU the time. Put it into a mould, set it in a cool I place, and it will be ready for use the following I day. Time to boil, a few minutes. Sufficient I for a pint mould. Probable cost, 6d. Blancmange, American (another way). Prepare a paste as directed in Blancmange, but with eight or ten pounded Brazil nuts instead of almonds. Beat up four eggs, and add gradually five tea-spoonfuls of Oswego or Indian corn-flour. Dissolve fom- ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of new milk, add the liquor of the nuts, and simmer for five minutes, and draw it off the fire for another five minutes ; then strain in the eggs, stin-ing quickly over a slow fire until it thickens. Pour the mixture into a mould, and let it stand in a cool place until it becomes firm. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Blancmange, Rice. Blanch almonds and pound to a paste, as alrcadj directed for blancmange, using a little more cold water. BLO ( 72) BOI Boil three ounces of rice, three ounces of loaf sugar, the rind of half a lemon, a piece of cinnamon, and a stick of vanilla, with a pint and a half of new milk. When the rice is boiled to a pulp, add the almond paste and liquid, and simmer ten minutes. Then put into it three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass, and when dissolved, pass the whole through a sieve into a mould, and stand in a cold place till firmly set. Serve with a cream over it. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Bloaters. Open the bloaters down the back, and bone them. Lay the fish one on the other (insides together), and broil over a clear fire. When sent to table they are separated, laid on a hot dish, and rubbed over with a little butter; or, split up, take out the back bone, trim off the head, tail, and fins, double the fish over, and broil from five to six minutes over a clear fire. Blonde Fish Sauce. Put three tablespoonfuls of stock into a stowpan, and stew the following ingredients for half an hour over a slow fire : An onion cut small, two mushrooms, a sprig of parsley, a lemon very thinly sliced, and a glass of white wine. AVhen nearly stewed, add, by degrees, a cupful of melted butter, and the yolks of three eggs well beaten ; keep stirring the pan over the fire for four or five minutes, but do not allow the contents to boil. Strain through a sieve, and use it for any kind of fish. Probable cost, lOd. Boar's Head, Boiled. Remove the snout, hair, and bones, from a boar's head; cleanse it thoroughly, scald and put it into a boihng pot containing vinegar and water ; add two ounces of salt, a few peppercorns, some parsley, thyme, eschalot, and sage ; let it steep for three days, with the tongue and two pounds of the meat. AVhen drained, fill up the cavities made by the removal of bones, &c., with thin sUces of the meat and tongue rolled together ; fasten up the opening with strong thread boar' as soon as the head has been well filled and the form is good. Put it, tied up in a cloth, into a stewpan with the herbs, ?S:c., and add a pint of wine, four cloves, a can-ot, and an ounce of salt, to simmer from six to seven hours, when it may be taken out and allowed to cool. A Hien quite cold, remove the cloth, undo the fastenings, ornament and glaze the head. Rei lace the tusks, and insert eyes made of white of egg and beetroot. Serine with a folded napkin under. Boar's Head Sa.uce. Cut the rind from two oranges, and slice them. Pub two or three Imnps of sugar on two more oranges, put the sugar into a basin with six or seven tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, a little white pepper, one shallot, one spoonful of mixed mustard, and enough port wine to make the sauce as thick as good cream; add the orange-rind slices, which should be cut very thin, and bottle for use. This sauce is useful for nearly every kind of cold meat. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Bohemian Ice Cream. The smaller varieties of ripe red fruit are used to make this cream ; they are pulped thiough a fine sieve, and to a pint of the juice thus procured, add an ounce and a half of the best isinglass, dissolved in half a pint of water. Sweeten to taste, and squeeze in lemon- juice if liked. Mix to this quantity a pint of sweetened whipt cream, and mould for freezing. These creams, where raspberries only are used, may be put into glasses, and made without isinglass in the proportions of a pound of fruit juice to a pint of whipt cream. Time to freeze, about thirty minutes. Boil, To. Before boHing joints of meat, the cook shonld think for a moment, whether she desires the juices to go into the water, as in soups and gravies, or to be retained in the meat itself. If they are to be retained, put the meat into fast-boiling water, let it boil for about five minutes, to make the outside hard, and thus prevent the juice escaping; then add suflicient cold water to considerably reduce the temperatiu-e ; bring this gently to a boil ; when it is on the point of boiling, skim it carefully, or the appearance of the meat will be spoilt. Draw it a little to the side, and let it simmer very gently until ready. Care must be taken to remove the scum when the waier is on the point of boiling, or it will quickly sink, and cannot afterwards be removed. If it is desired to extract the juice from the meat, cover it with cold water, and simmer slowly as before. The practice of boiling meat quickly cannot be sufficiently deprecated. It only renders it hard and tasteless. At the same time the simmering should be continuous. Before boiling, all joints should be washed clean, neatly trimmed, and firmly skewered. It is a good plan to put a few pierces of wood under the meat to prevent it adliering to the pan. Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh meat. Dried and smoked meat should be soaked for some hours before it is put into the water. As a very large quantity of water takes the goodness out of the meat, it is well to use a saucepan sufficiently large to contain the joint easily, and no more. Afterwards, if the meat is entirely covered with water, this is all that is required. The whiteness of meat or poultry is preserved by its being wrapped in a woU-fioured clothi whilst in the pan, but great care must be taken that this is perfectly sweet and clean before using, or the fiavour will be spoilt. From a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes should be allowed for each pound, counting from the time the water boils. Puddings should be plunged into plenty of boiling water, and kept boiling quickly until done. BOI (73) BON Boiling Pot. Large ii-on stewpans in which hams, joints of meat, and soups can be cooked are g-enerally called boiling pots. They BOILING POT. are made of wi-ought-iron or cast-iron. The foraier are the more expensive of the two, but are at the same time more durable, as they are better able to withstand the heat of the fire. DEEP BOILIKG POT. These vessels should be washed out and dried as soon as they are done with, and when not in use should be kept without cover in a dry place. Probable cost of a pot to hold five and a half gallons, ?v TOught-iron, ?1; cast-iron, 7s. Bologna Sausage. Take equal quantities of beef and pork, pound it to a paste and .season it veiy highly with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and a little garlic. When this mixture is put into the skins, add a strip or two of fat bacon; it maybe boiled for one hour, or smoked for two or three months, when it will be fit for use. The Italians cat it in its uncooked state. Probable cost of meat, lOd. to Is. per pound. Bologna Sausage (another way). Take a pound of lean beef or veal, a pound of bacon, rather fat, a pound of beef suet, and a pound of loan pork. Chop up very small all together, with a handful of sage leaves and a few sweet herbs ; season to taste with salt and pepper, and press into a large, clean sausageskin. Put the sausage into a saucepan of boiling water, and prick it over to i revent bursting. Boil for an hour. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Bologna Sausage (another way). Take two pounds of tender, streaky pork, chop it up with parsley and chives, and season with salt, pepper, and spices. Fill a large sausage-skin witli the mixture, tie the ends securely, and boil it for two or thi?e hours, pricking it frequently with a large needle to prevent the slcin from bursting. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 6 Bologna Sausage with Onions. This is pi-epared in the same manner as the preceding ; some onions finely minced, and simmered in lard until three parts cooked, being added to the other materials. Bonbons, Candied (ii la Gouffe). Heat one jiovmd of sugar until it registers forty degxees, then cool it down to thirty-eight degrees, by the addition of some essence to flavom-, either aniseed cordial, cherry water, maraschino, or almond may be used. Let it cool, and beat it with a wooden spoon until it foi-ms a paste, when put it in a basin until wanted. Next, get a wooden tray about one foot square, and two inches deep, fill it with dry starch finely powdered, and stamp the starch all over -?-ith an ornamental cutter, leaving about half an inch between each interstice. Melt part of the paste in a sugar boiler, rub the spout with whiting, and fill the patterns in the starch with the sugar ; let it dry for two hours ; take them out, brush them to clear away the loose starch, place them in a candy pan, cover them with some syrup at about thirty-six degrees of heat, and cover with a sheet of paper. Allow the bonbons to stay fifteen horns in a drying closet, then break the top only of the sugar, throw off the syrup, put the bonbons on a wire strainer, and give them their finishing touch by letting them again di-y in the hot closet. Bonbons, Liquor. These articles of confectionery are preixared by boihng white sugar with water into a thick syruji, and then adding a little spirit and any flavoui-ing and colouiing ingredients that may be required. To make these, a tray is filled with finely -powdered starch. On the surface of this, impressions are made of the. shape and size of the bonbons desired. These hollow spaces are then filled with the syrup. More powdered starch is next sprinkled over the tray, so as to cover the syrup. The tray is then cai-efully placed in a warm place for the sugar to crystallise. The sugar in the syrup contained in the mould soon begins to form an outside ciust, which gradually increases in thickness, while the weak spirit, collecting together in the interior, forms the liquid portion of the bonbon. Bone, To. The art of boning meat or poultry, though by no means diflicult for those who have been taught it, cannot be acquired by veibal instruction only. It is necessary to take lessons from some one who understands it, and practice will do the rest. It is exceedingly useful, most of all, because joints, &c., when boned, are so much more easily carved than when served in the usual way, and also on account of the economy, as the bones taken may be stewed down for gravy, for which fresh meat would otherwise be needed. The family poulterer will generally do all that is required for a moderate charge. The only rules which c an be given are to use a sharp-pointed knife, to work with this close to tlie bone, and to use every care to keep the outer skin as whole as possible. Bones, Devilled. Make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne popper, and a little BOR (74) BRA mushroom ketcliup ; lay a coating of butter over the bones, then the mixture, and rub it well in, and broil rather brown over a clear fire. Bordelaise Sauce (a la Goufte). Add to half a pint of yauterne a table-spoonful of shallots, blanched and chopped, and a very small quantity of mignonette pepper. Reduce it, by boiling, to a quarter of a pint, then add a pint of I'Espagnole sauce, and boil for five minutes, with the addition of a table-spoonful of finelychopped parsley. Bottle-Jack and Screen. The usual method employed for I'oasting meat is to hang the bottle-jack on the movable bar placed for its reception on tho front of the mantelshelf : to suspend the wheel from the jack and to hang the meat by a hook from the wheel. A screen, either entirely made of tin or lined with it, is then put in front of the fire to keep in the heat, and the jack is wound up two or tliree times whilst a joint is being roasted. By a modern improvement the bar can be altogether dispensed with, and the jack fastened above the screen, which is so made that the heat will be condensed as much as i ossible. Those who do not wish to go to the expense of a bottle- jack, but who appreciate the difference between a roasted joint and a baked one, may find an economical substitute for the bottle- jack in the chimney BOTTLE-JACK AND SCREEN. screw-jack, which may be fastened ujion any mantelshelf when wanted, and unscrewed when done with. It requires a little more watching than the ordinary bottle-jack, but if a key be hung upon the hook with six or seven thicknesses of worsted wound round it, one end of which is fastened to the meat-hook, the twisting and untwisting of the worsted cord will cause a rotatory motion like that produced by the more expensive bottle-jack. Probable cost : Bottle-jack, from 7s. 6d. to 12s. 6d. ; screen, from ?1 10s. to ?3 10s. ; bottle-jack and screen in one, r2s. 6d. to 2os. ; cliimney screw-jack. Is. 6d. to 2s. Bouille a Baisse, or Bouillabesse. Any kind of fish may be used for tliis dish : gurnard, haddock, whiting, mackerel, carp, red and grey mullet, soles, plaice, or lobsters, all do admirably for a bouillabesse. Chop two onions and put them with a piece of butter in a stewpan, and let them brown without burning, then arrange the fish (which has been previously cut into small pieces) in the pan, allowing half a pound of fish for each person. Add a small quantity of the best ohvc-oil, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, a few slices of lemon, two or three tomatoes, or a little tomato sauce, as much powdered saffron as will go on the point of a table-knife, and, lastly, a glass of white wine or Madeira. Put in sufficient stock to cover the whole, and boil from ten to fifteen minutes, skimming carefully the whole time. When ready to serve, throw in a handful of chopped parsley. This quantity of fiavouring is intended for six pounds of fish. On the Continent it is usually sent to table in two sejiarate dishes, that is to say, the fish in one, and the sauce in a small deep dish, but we think the whole would look better served on a large or in a deep entree dish. Brain Cakes. Boil the brains of a calf for ten minutes, and blanch them in cold water; then poimd them to a paste 'ith a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, quarter of a tea-spoonful of mace and cayenne, salt, pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. ]\Iake the paste into balls about the size of a florin ; when flattened, dip them into egg and fine bread-ci'umb, and fry brown. They are appropriate as a garnish for calf's head a la tortue. Braise, To. To braise meat is to cook it in a braisicre, or closed stewpan, so formed tliat live embers can be held in the cover, and the heat necessary for cooking communicated from above as well as below. As there is BRAISING-PAK. no evaporation the meat imbilies the flavour of the vegetables, &c., with which it is cooked, and care should be taken that these are in accordance with the nature of the meat and added in proper quantities. Before putting the meat into the pan, either lard it or cover it with thick slices of fat bacon. When sufficiently cooked, take it out and keep it hot, strain the gravj- and free it entirely from fat (this is most effectually done by plunging the basin which contains BRA (75) BBA it into cold water, and thus causing the fat to settle on the top). Boil it quickly until very thick, and serve it in the dish with the meat, or boil it longer until it is thick enough to adhere to it. As braisieres are not very usual in ordinary kitchens, we may say that almost as good an effect is produced, if the meat is bouud in slices of fat bacon, and gently stewed in rich gravy. Bran Yeast. A good serviceable yeast can be made from a pint of bran boiled in two quarts of water for ten minutes, with a handful of good hops. Strain the liquor, and when lukewarni, add three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, and two of brown sugar or treacle ; put it into a jar or small wooden cask, and place it before the fire to ferment ; when well worked it may be bottled, tightly corked, and kej)t in a cool place. Brandy, Lemon. Take the thin or yellow rinds only of two small lemons, and cover them with half a pint of the best French brandy ; let them stand in a closed-up bottle for a fortnight, then strain off the spirit and keep it corked closely for use. A syrup of two ounces of loaf sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water may be added if a sweet brandy lemon is desired. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Brandy Mince for Pies. Take one pound each of fresh beef suet, sugar, currants, and apples ; wash, pick, and dry the cm-rants, and mince the suet and apples with a quarter of a poimd of citron, and the same of orange-peel, the juice of one lemon and the grated peel of two. Tien all these ingredients are well mixed, throw over them, by degrees, a quart of brandy. Brandy, Raspberry. Take four poimds of raspberries and steeji them in three quarts of brandy for one month ; add syrup to taste, and flavour with cinnamon and clove mixture. Some persons prefer it without any flavouring ingredients, but it is always better to have a little added. Brawn. Prepare a hog's head, by cutting off the ears, taking out the brains, and cleaning generally ; rub in plenty of salt, and let it drain a whole day and night. Pub in two ounces of saltj)etre and the same quantity of salt, and let it stand for three days. Next, put the head and salt into a pan and cover it with water for two days. Now, wash it well from the salt, and boil till the bones can be easily removed. Extract these and take off the skin of the head and tongue carefully. Chop up the meat into bits, but do not mince it, and season with pepper, salt, and shallot to taste. Place the skin of one-half of the head into a pan, closely fitting it, and press into it the chojjped head and tongue. WTicn this is done, take the other skin and lay it cleverly in place, or put the other skin in the pan and proceed as before, and turn out when cold. Should the head be too fat, add some lean pork. For a sauce, boil a pint of vinegar with a quart of the liquor in which the head was boiled, and two ovmces of salt, and pour over the brawn when the liquor is cold. The hair should be carefully removed from the ears, and thev must be boiled till tender. then divided into long narrow pieces and mixed with the meat. Time to boil, from two to three hours. Probable cost for a pig's head, od. per pound. Brawn (another M ay). Take three iiigs' heads, and two cheeks of salted pork, two sheeps' tongues, a piece or the whole of a bullock's tongue. Boil all together until the meat will separate from the bones . Put the meat on a pasteboard, cut it into small bits, and while cutting throw the following spices, well jDounded, over it : one ounce and a half of white pepper, three-quarters of an ounce of allspice, eight cloves, and two blades of mace. The bullock's tongue to be skinned, sUced, and distributed in thin layers between the meat in the mould. Boil a cow-heel in one pint of water till reduced to half, throw this over and cover, putting a heavy weight on the top. Let it stay all night, and the next morning it will be finn in the mould. Brawn (another way). Take the fat, ears, and tongue, of a pig's head, and any pieces which may have been cut oft' in trimming, and soak in salt and water all night. Cleanse, and boil them for thi-ee hours, with onljenough water to keep them from burning, and the meat from getting drj'. The bones should then be taken out, the ears cut into strijis, and the tongue into sUces. Season the whole with pepper, salt, allspice, &c., as for Brawn {see Brawn), and boil it in the same liquor for an hour. A few minutes before it is quite ready, add a little carrot, minced parsley, or other herbs, scalded and cut fine. Boil again and pour into a brawn mould. When required the brawn may be separated from the moulds by dipping them into hot water, or by placing a hot towel around them for a few minutes. Brawn, Mock. Remove the bladebone from the shoulder of a large hog or boar, and boil the meat gently two hours or more, according to size. \\Tien cold rub in black pepper, salt, cayenne, allspice, shallot, and thyme to taste. Let it remain for twenty-four hours in this seasoning. Next day prepare a forcemeat of veal, ham, beef, suet, minced parsley, thyme, onion, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, white pepper, and bind it with beaten egg, and press it into the space left by the bladebone. Place it in a pan, brown side downwards, taking care, however, that it does not stick to the bottom, which may be prevented by placing a few twigs crossways in the pan. Then pour over the shoulder a quart of mild ale, and bake it six or seven hours in an oven. When nearh- done, take it out and clear oft' the fat ; add a bottle of wine and the juice of a large lemon ; return it to the oven, and when it is tender enough to be easily pierced with a wooden skewer or a strong straw, it is sufficiently done, and should be served hot. Probable cost of shoulder, 8d. or 9d. per pound. Brawn Sauce. Mix nicely together two tea-spoonfuls of moist sugar, one of mustard, and one of the best Lucc-a oil. ? l6n quite smooth, add more vinegar and oil in equal proportions, though some prefer more of tlieone than of the other. Care must be taken BBA ( 76 ) to make tlic sauco quite smooth, and of a nice rich golden colour. Brawn, Sussex. Prepare a pig's head as directed in: the recipe for Brawn. .Strew tlie halves with' salt, and di-ain them. Cleanse the ears and feet. Kub in one ounce and a half of saltpetre vdth. six ounces of sugar, and shortly after six ounces of salt. Next day, pour a quarter of a pint of vinegar over all, and turn the meat in the pickle every twenty-four houi's for a week ; wash off the pickle and boil till all the bones may be easily removed, but the form of the head must be retained. Flatten the head on a board, cut some of the meat from the thickest part, and place it on the thinnest, to give an oven appearance. Season all thoroughly with nutmeg, mace, cayenne, cloves, &c. Intei-mix the head with pieces of the ears, feet, and tongue ; roU it up tightly and bind firmly, tpng a thin cloth closely round, and secui-ely fastening at both ends. Now place the head in a braising or other suitable pan, with the bones and trimmings of the feet and ears, a large bunch of savoury herbs, two onions, a small head of celery, some carrots, a tea-spoonful of black peppercorns, and sufficient cold water to cover all well. Boil for four hours, and allow it to remain in the liquor till nearly cold. Take off the cloth and put the bra l between two dishes, and press with a heavy weight till next day. Before ser\dng take off the bands. Average cost of pig's head, 5d. per pound. Bread {sec Derbyshire Bread). Bread Brandy Cakes. Separate the yolks from the whites of eight eggs, beat up the yolks and five whites together. Dissolve six ounces of butter in a pint of milk, and pour it, while hot, over a pound of bread-crumbs. When cold, pour in the eggs and add equal quantities of sugar and well-washed cui-rants, with about a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy. Line pattypans with short paste, and bake for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Bread, Broken, Pudding. This pudding will use up the crusts and remnants of bread to be found in eveiy household ; all will suit, no matter how dry they are, so that they are not mouldy. Gather all into a large bowl, and throw over it as much sweetened milk as the bread is likely to absorb, with two or three table- spoonfuls of finely-shred suet, and a little salt. Cover until well soaked, then beat the whole smooth, and add tws or three well-beaten eggs, a few currants and raisins, and some grated nutmeg. The addition of a ?table-spoonful of rum will be found an improve nent. Bake in an ordinary pudding-dish for about an hour and a half. Bread, Brown, Biscuits. Take two ounces of butter dissolved in half a pint of boiling water, and stir it into a pound of wheat meal ; knead it to a firm dough. Llix all well, roll out to a thickness of about half an inch, and cut with a biscuit-cutter or a sharp-edged teacup. Prick the biscuits with a fork, and bake in a quick oven. Average cost, 4d. Sufficient iot one pound of feiscuits. Bread, Brown, Ice Cream. Stale bread must be used for this cream, mixed vith an equal quantity of stale sponge cake. Take two sponge cakes and two thick slices of bread, grate them Into a jug, and pour over half a pint of milk and a pint of cream, made sweet with half a pound of sugar. Place the jug in a saucepan, and stir the contents over the fire until it gets thick. A few of the breadcrumbs sifted very finely may be added with a glass of any liquor liked to the mixture when quite cold, and just before being put to freeze. Freeze for about twenty- five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Bread, Brown, Pudding. Take equal quantities of well- washed currants, brown breadcrumbs, and shred suet half a pound of each add six ounces of sugar, half a glass of brandy, and the same quantity of cream ; mix all together, with six eggs well beaten, leaving out the whites of two. Bake in a moderate oven for two hom-s. Serve with sweet sauce and sugar over the top. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bread Cakes, Fried, American. To five tea-cupfuls of light dough, add half a cupful of butter, three of brown sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, four eggs, and a little grated nutmeg. Knead these well together with flour, and let them rise before the fii'O mitil very light. Knead the dough again after it rises ; cut it into diamond-shaped cakes ; let them rise ; and fry in lard or di-ipping, as soon as light. These calces must be served as soon as they arc ready. Bread, Cobbett's Becipe for. Take one pint of good sweet yeast, and the same of slightly warm water; make a hollow in the centre of a bushel of floui- and thi-ow it in, and mix it up with the flour lying round it, till it has become a thin batter ; then throw some flouiover the batter, and a cloth over the pan ; draw it near the fire to leaven, and when sufficiently risen, which may be known by the cracks and flowing of the yeast, mix the whole, with the addition of more warm water or millv, and a little salt strewn over, into a stiff dough. Knead it well, shape it into loaves, in tins or otherwise, place them in a warm place for twenty minutes, and then bake in a moderate oven. If the oven is too hot, the bread will not rise well. Bread Croustades. Bread croustades are baked in a variety of shapes. The inside or crumb is scooped out, and the outer part or crust is fried, and then di-ied from the fat and filled with mincemeat or ragout. In Scotland croustades or moulds are made of mashed potatoes, and lined with gratin composed of the white parts of fowl or veal seasoned with salt, pepper, and herbs. Miinster loaves may be classed under the same head as a supper-dish. They are made thus: scrape three or four ounces of lean ham, and an ounce or two of veal, and mix it with a pound of well-mashed potatoes; add salt, pepper, and a couple of eggs to bind, and mould into any shapes desired. They may be fried and served with or without gravy. Bread Crumbs, Fried. Put some thin slices of bread into an o 'cn when the fire has BRE ( 77 )? gone low, and let them stay all night; roll them next morning into crumbs. Put into a frying-pan some butter or Lard, and when it is on the point of boiling, add the bread-crumbs. Stir them till they are of a clear bro-svn colour. Take them out with a slice, and put them on blotting-paper before the fire, to draw away all the fat ; or they may be browned in a gentle oven without butter. Bread-crumbs so prepared are useful for serving with game of any sort. Bread Crusts, Grilled for Soup and Cheese. Toast bread-crusts in front of a very snrall fire, and on a wire toaster. A little butter may be rubbed over them before they are put into the soup tureen. Untoasted bread swells, and is likely to spoil the appearance of the soup. Crusts for toasted cheese are pulled, rough pieces, from a fresh loaf, and then browned in the oven or in front of a fire. Bread Custard Pudding. Make a custard according to the size of pudding required. A pint uf custard will fill a mediumsized dish. Cut slices of thin bread and butter, to suit the dish, and over each layer throw currants, sugar, and finely-cut candied lemon, and a little nutmeg. Pour the custard over by degrees so that the bread may be well ?saturated, and let it stand an hour before putting it into the oven. Just before it is put in, throw over the last of the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for half an houi-. Probable cost, about Is. Sufficient for five or six people. Bread, French. Stir into four pounds of flom- flavoured with three ounces of salt, half a pint of good sweet yeast, the yolks of two eggs, and the whites of three beaten separately, and a pint of warm milk. Stir all till well mixed into a thin dough, and let it rise for a few minutes. Make the dough into loaves of the size required, and bake in a brisk oven with or without tins. Time to bake, from threequarters to one houi\ Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three loaves. Bread Fried for Soup. Cut some slices of bread about half an inch thick, and, the crust being removed, shape into squares, ovals, or round pieces. These pieces of bread are to be about the size of a two-shilling piece, care being taken that they are all cut of the same thickness and size. Prepare twenty or thii-ty of such j ieces, and put them into a jian with sufficient butter; place them over a quick fire, and turn them continually until the}' are bro-s\'ned. Remove the fried pieces of bread from the jian, let them drain on a piece of white calico, and then place them in a tureen. About ten minutes before sending them to table pour over them some thin boiling pio-ce. Any kind may be used for this purpose, either tliat of carrots, turnips, lentils, or peas. Add a small piece of sugar to the purve before using it. Bread Grater . A bread-grater is a tin cylinder perforated with holes upon each side, and as its name implies is used to crumble bread for forcemeats, &-c. Although many cooks dispense -with it entirely, and merely rub the bread between the palms of the hands, the crumbs thus prepared are not nearly so smooth and even as when this little article is used. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. Bread, Home-made. Make a cavity in the middle of a quartern of flour, and stir into it a pint of warm milk or water, and four tablespoonfuls of good yeast mixed together. Cover it up and set it before the fire to rise. If set over night make up next morning, then add half a pint more milk or water, and knead it into a dough for ten minutes. Set it by the fire for one hour and a half, then make into loaves, and bake from one hour and a half to two hours, according to size. If equal quantities of meal and flour be used, this will make an excellent broAvn bread. Bread, Household. To ten pounds of flour in a kneading-trough put a small handful of salt. Stir into this about two quarts of water, more or less, as some flour absorbs more water than others. For very white bread, made with superfine flour, the dough should be softer than for seconds or brown bread. In summer the water may be lukewarm; in winter, considerably wai-mer, hut never hot enough to kill the yeast. After the water is mixed with the flour, add a cupful of good yeast, then knead the bread, and leave it to lise in a wann place, covered with a cloth. If all goes well, it will rise sufficiently in the course of an hour or an hour and a half. Then divide it into roUs, loaves, or tin-breads, as wanted, and bake. For a three-pound loaf, take three pounds and a half of dough ; for a four-pound loaf, four pounds eleven ounces ; for a six-pound loaf, six pounds and threequarters; and for an eight-pound loaf, nine pounds of dough. Bread, Household (another way). It often happens that household bread, from a little want of care, is found bitter and unpalatable. To remedy this, the yeast or bai-m should be put into water over night. Next day peel and boil three pounds of potatoes, beating them to a pulp, and pass through a colander, with a pint of cold water to haK a pint of good sweet yeast. Mix the potato pulp and yeast tlioioughly together, and then pour it into a hollo\v made in the middle of one peck of flour. Stir some of the flour into the mixture, till it is like a thick batter, then cover M-ith a little of the dry flour, throw a cloth over the pan, and set it near the fire to rise. In about an hour mix it with five pints of lukewarm water and two ounces of salt, to a dough. Cover it up again as before, and let it stand this time about two hours, then knead it into loaves, and bake for an houi' and a half in a good oven. Probable cost, about Tjd. per four-pound loaf. Bread, Indian Corn. Mix half a pint of white Indian meal, coarsely ground, with one pint of fresh milk, one egg, and a pinch of salt. Get ready a tin of, say four inches diameter at the bottom, and three inches deep, grease it well, and pour in the batter which should only half fill the dish. Bake in a tolerably quick oven and serve very hot, on a white d'oyley, or, if preferred, halve it and butter it. Time, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. BRE (78) BRE Bread Jelly (for Invalids). Toast thin slices of a French roll till they are equally hrown on both sides, and of a pale colour, then hoil them in a quart of water till they hecome a jelly. Let some cool in a spoon as a test. Strain over some juices of lemon-peel, and sweeten with sugar. A little \?ine may be added if preferred. Bread Oraelet. Mix equal quantities of bread-crumbs and cream, a tea-spoonful of each, break an ounce of butter into bits, and add with it salt, pepper, and nutmeg. AVhen the cream has been absorbed by the bread, beat it till smooth, with a fork, and mix it to three well-beaten eggs. Fry like an ordinary omelet. Time to fry, three to four minutes. Bread Pudding. To one pLat of milk add two or thixe well-beaten eggs ; stir- them into the milk, with sugar and nutmeg; into this put some very finely-grated bread-crumbs. Butter a dish, pour the pudding into it, and bake. Bread Pudding (another way). Take fine bread, grated small, and rich new milk. When the milk boils, put in the bread-crumbs ; for every table-spoonful of bread allow one egg, well beaten ; sweeten it with loaf sugar to taste, and grate in a little nutmeg. Put it into a buttered basin, and boil from twenty to thirty minutes, according to the size of the pudding. If baked, rather less time will do ; it only requires to be a light brown. Bread Pudding, Boiled. Soak half a pint of bread-crumbs with one pint of milk thrown on them while in a boiling state, and when the milk has become cold, add three well-beaten eggs, two ounces of currants, with sugar and nutmeg to taste. Mix all well together, butter a basin, pour in the mixture, and keep it boiling, with a cloth securely tied over the top, for rather more than one hour. Pieces of bread unfit for the table, on account of their staleness, may be used up in bread puddings, by carefully soaking them, and then pressing them di-y before they are added to the rest. Probable cost, 7d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Bread Pudding with Onions. Mix half a pound of bread-ci-umbs with a tea-spoonful of sage, two ounces of onions, and pepper and salt, Avith three-quarters of a pint of milk. Add two eggs well beaten, and bake in a quick oven. Bread, Pulled. Pull the soft portion of a new loaf into rough pieces ; let them be of equal size, say about two or three inches each way. Dry the pieces in a slow oven or before the fii'e, till they become a nice light brown colour, and \A-hen they are quite crisj) they will be ready for use. Bread, Rice. Allow one pound of rice to four jjounds of wheat flour. The rice must be first boiled in milk or water, and while warm added to the flour, bxit care must be taken to see thatjthe rice is thoroughly done. Mix all into a dough with a little yeast, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and sufiicient warm water for the required consistency. When it has risen before the fire a proper time, make into loaves of any shape, and bake according to size. This bread is very delicious made with a mixture of milk. Probable cost, 8d. per four-pound loaf. Bread Sauce. Into a saucepan put as miich fresh milk as will nearly fin a pint sauceboat. Add to it a little salt, the same of grated nutmeg, a few peppercorns, a blade or two of mace, and a medium-sized white onion, chopped very fine. Let these boil together, but they must not be allowed to boil over. MHien the chopped onion is quite tender, the milk, &c., are fit for use. Grate into the sauceboat enough of stale bread-crumb to fill it about one-quarter full. Over this pour enough of the hot milk, peppercorns and all, to soak it. Let it stand for two or three minutes ; then, after stirring up the heated milk, pour the rest of it over the bread, and stir all together. Be careful not to use too much bread-crumb, or the sauce will become tliick. Bread Sauce (another way). Stew the head, neck, and legs of poultry with an onion, a little mace, peppercorns, and salt. Take ' one pint of the broth when strained, pour it hot over twelve ounces of bread-crumbs, boil for ten minutes, and add thi-ee table-spoonfuls of cream. Time to make the broth, two hours. Bread Sauce (another way). Cut a French roll, one day old, into thick slices. Put them into a clean saucepan ; add a few peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boilingmilk enough to cover it. Let it sinuner gently by the side of the fire till the bread soaks up the milk ; then add a little cream, take out the onions, and rub the whole thi'ough a sieve. Serve very hot. Bread Sauce for Partridges. Moisten soft crumb of bread in millv, and simmer it for about three-quarters of an hour, until it becomes of the consistency of thick bouillon. Th-sn add some butter, and season with pepper and salt. Bread, Short. To one pound and a half of flour add the following ingredients : a quarter of a pound of candied orange and lemonpeel, cut small ; the same of sweet almonds, blanched and cut ; loaf sugar ; and caraway comfits (some of the latter may be kept to j strew over the top of the bread). Dissolve a I pound of butter, and when it is getting cool pour it into the flour, and mix it quickly into I a dough, with half a pound more flour. Then pour it into a large round cake of an inch in thickness ; divide it into four parts, and pinch the edge of each piece neatly with the thumb and finger ; strew the caraway comfits over the top, with small devices of orange or citronpeel. Lay the cakes on floured paper, which is I again to be placed upon tins, and bake ir. a I moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty-fi\t: to 1 thirty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. I Bread, Sippets of. Cut slices of stale ] bread about the third of an inch thick, and trim into any form required. Fry them in I butter till some are dark, but not burnt, and I some a light bro-mi. "\ATien they are crisp, lay I them on a cloth to dry. When wanted to adhere to the edge of a dish, dip the end in a BBE (79) BBE mixtui'e of white of egg and flour. If the dish be made very hot the sippets will not stay in theii- places. Bread, Soda. Mix one tea-spoonful of tartaric acid with two pounds of flour, and a to;:-spoonful of salt. Dissolve a tea-spooniul of carbonate of soda in a pint of milk, and whtai it is free from sediment add it to the flour, and mix the whole quickly into a light dough. Tliis quantity will make two loaves. They should l)e put into a brisk oven immediately, and baked for an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Bread, Stale, How to use up. When bread has become so hard that it cannot be eaten, it should be grated into coarse powder, and preserved in wide-mouthed bottles or jars. Wlien kept well covered up, and in a dry place, it will remain good for a considerable time. Bread thus powdered will be found very useful for the prepai-ation of puddings, stuffings, and similar purposes. Bread, Tipsy. Cut a French roll into thin slices, and pare off the crusts, leaving it a nice round shape ; spread raspberry, strawberiy , or currant jam over each slice, and pile them one on the other in a glass dish. Pour over them as much sherry as the bread will absorb. Ornament it round with blanched almonds cut into very flnc strips, and stick them also on the top ; pour a custard round and serve. This is a quickly-prepared and cheap dish. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bread, TJnfermented. Take two ounces of carbonate of soda, one ounce and a quarter of tartaric acid, and a piece of sal- j ammoniac, about the size a hazel-nut, powdered, j Let these be well mixed in a perfectly dry state. ? Then blend them with half a j eck of wheaten flour or one-thii-d of barley flour may be used and about two ounces of salt. Make a deep hole in the middle of the flour so prepared, and pour in as much cold water as will make the dough somewhat less stiff than bread dough is usuallj- made. Mix it briskly and well. Make this quantity into three loaves. Put them immediately into a quick oven, and let them bake for one hour and ten minutes. The exact time will depend, of course, vipon the heat of the oven ; but a very little practice will determine this. Sweet palatable nutritious bread can be made cheaply by carefully following this recipe. Bread witllOUt Yeast. To every halfquartern of flour add one tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix altogether; then to the water, sufficient to make a dough, add half atea-spoonfulof muriatic acid. Set into the oven at once. This makes delicious and wholesome bread. Some use tartaric acid ; in which case the bread will contain tartrate of soda, which, although not poisonous, is medicinal, being slightly purgative. On the other hand, muriatic acid neutralises soda just as well as tartaric acid, and the resulting compound is only common salt. Bread and Fruit Fritters. Take twelve slices of bread and butter, cut off the crust, and let them be of equal thickness ; spread them over with jam any sort that may be liked and make a cover with another slice ; press thorn tightly together, and cut them into any dcsu-ed forms. Make a batter, as for apple fritters, dip them in and fry in boiling lard about ten minutes; dry them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper, and serve on a napkin with sifted sugar sprinkled over. Probable cost, is. Sufficient for a small dish. Bread and Meat Pudding, Portable. Make a bread dough, roll out the jjaste thick, and put any kind of fat meat, seasoned according to taste, upon it; wrap it over, and bake or boil as may be most convenient. This mode of cooking is particularly adapted for travellers or colonial life. Any kind of game, poultry, or meat may be stuffed, and, if well skewered before the paste is put around it, will be a convenient dish of bread, meat, and sauce combined, as they may first be cooked at home, and afterwards warmed for use when required. Bread and Parsley Fritters. Pour boiling water on six ounces of bread without crust, cover it up for an hour, and then beat it up with a fork until quite smooth ; add, and mix thoroughlj', an ounce of finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and four eggs, well beaten. Fry, in fritters, a nice brown, and serve with brown sauce. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Bread, Wheat and Rice. Beat one pound and a half of well-boiled rice to a paste, and mix it with seven pounds of fine wheaten flour while still warm ; take a pint and a half of warm milk and water, four ounces of salt, and four table-spoonfuls of yeast, put them into the centre of the flour, make a thin batter, cover the top with flour, and leave it to rise for an hour and a half; then make it into a dough with more milk and water, and after kneading and forming it into loaves, set it by the fire for another hour to rise before being put into the oven. Bake from one and a half to two hours. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for four loaves. Breakfast Biscuits.- Mix flom- with cream to a proper consistency, and salt to taste. One pound of flour to a quarter of a pint of thin cream will make a paste sufficiently stiff. Form into small biscuits, prick them, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Or, mix flour as stated with a small bit of butter, the size of a pigeon's egg, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of cold water; add a little salt, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, about 4d. Breakfast Cakes or Rolls. Take one pound of fine fldur, and make it into a dough with an ounce of butter which has been warmed to melt it, half a pint of new milk, and half an ounce of good fresh German yeast dissolved in warm water; cover it well up, and leave it all night by the side of the fire. In the morning make up into rolls, and if they stand for half an hour before baking they will be all the better. Seven or eight rolls may be made with BBE (80) BRI this quantity of dough. Time for baking, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7(1. Breakfast Cakes or Rolls (another way) . Make a batter with two pounds of Hour, and as much warm milk and water, with about a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, and a little salt, as will smooth it. Let it stand before the fire to rise for two hours. Have ready a little flour and butter well rubbed together, and make the batter with this, and as much more flour as may be required, into a light dough. Make it into rolls and bake on tins ; rasp, and keep them covered up warm till wanted. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufiicient for twelve ordinarysized rolls. Probable cost, 8d. Breakfast Mufl3.ns. Stir flour enough into a pint of hot milk, and about a quarter of a pint of yeast to make a thin batter, then put it in a waVm place to rise. liub two ounces of butter into a little flour, and with a little more milk and flour make the batter into a stiff dough. Put it aside well covered up in a wai-m place for half an hour, when the dough will be quite ready to shape into mufiins, but they should not be baked until they have stood for another quarter of an hour. They are easily baked in a frying-pan or on a griddle. Time to bake, twenty minutes to half an houi". Bream, To Dress. This handsome, but not very excellent fish, will eat best if broiled over a slow clear fire for half an hour. The inside must be thoroughly cleansed, but the scales should not be removed ; and it should be wiped perfectly dry before it is put on the fire. Turn it so that both sides may be browned, and dredge a little flour if any cracks appear. Serve with melted butter and ancho\'y' sauce. In carving, remove the scales and skin, and serve only what is underneath. Bream may be stuft'ed with a veal forcemeat, and baked it will take longer than the broiling process or wrapped in a buttered jiapor, and placed in a moderate oven for about half an houi-. It should be well basted in its own di-ipping and a little butter. Bremen Cheesecakes. Cheesecakes from this recipe are quickly prepared and at little cost. Beat well, till white, the yolks of eight eggs, and add eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar and eight ounces of sweet almonds, powdered. Line the pans with a thin paste, and put in the mixture with a little fresh butter on the top of each just before 'they are placed in the oven. Take care that the oven is not too hot, or the c ikes will fall in cooling. Bake for about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Brentford Rolls. Take two pounds of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of powdered sugar, two eggs, quarter of a pint of yeast, milk enough to fonn a dough, and salt according to taste. Rub the flour, butter, and sugar together ; beat the eggs, and add them to the other ingredients. When light, mould the dough out in rolls, let them rise, and bake on tins in a moderate oven. Breslau Beef (see Beef, Breslau). Bretonne Brandy Pudding. Boil six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of milk, allow it to cool for a little, and add to it six wellbeaten eggs ; then let it get quite cold. Prepare a quarter of a pound of thin slices of stale bread and saturate the half of them with two glasses of brandy. Lay some of the bread in a basin previously buttered, holding a pint and a half. Strew over it some chopped candied orange-peel and stoned raisins, and then some custard, till all is used up. Tie the basin over with a buttered paper. Let it stand to soak for ten minutes, and steam for an hour and threequarters. Turn out, and serve with a sauce of clarified sugar which has been seasoned with vanilla and brandy. Probable cost, 23. 6d. Suflicient for six or seven persons. Bretonne Sauce (for Cold or Hot Beef). Mix a wine-glassful of vinegar with equal quantities of pounded sugar and mustard, a tea-spoonful of each, and about a table-spoonful of grated horse-radish. WTien pickles are preferred, this mixture will be found very agreeable; it combines the flavour of a sauce and pickle. Probable cost, 4d. Bride Cake. Commence operations by washing, picking, and putting two pounds of currants to dry before the fire, and then slicing thinly half a pound each (' "" ' peels, orange, citron, and lemon. Next, bruise one pound of sweet almonds with a little orange ower water, and pound quarter of an ounce each of mace, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmegs to j a powder. Wash four jjounds of butter, and j whip it to a cream; beat up the yolks and j whites, separately, of eighteen or twenty eggs 1 the whites should be frothed. Get two pounds I of sifted sugar, half a pint of brandy, and the same of sherry. The ingredients being prepared, pi-oceed as follows : Put the creamed butter into a large basin, and by degrees mix in the BRI (81 ) BRO sugar, stirring it constantly. Next add the frothed whites of the eggs, and beat aU together with the yolks ; then the almonds, spices, and, very gradually, the tlour, till all are thoroughly blended. Beat well, andadd the currants, sprinkling them in very gradually, so as to distribute them equally, and finish by making all smooth with the brandy and sherry. Keep up the beating till all is ready for the baking. A double paper well buttered, must be put as a lining to the baking-tin, and the mixture should not fiU the hoop more than three parts, that it may have room to expand. Put a j aper over the top, and bake for about five hours in a quick oven. Cover it with almond icing, allow it to drj , and then add ornamented sugar-icing, threequarters of an inch in thickness. Average cost, 15s. Bride Pie. Parboil some veal sweetbreads and i ieces of lamb in water, and cut them into slices. Mix with them some slices of blanched ox palate, streaky bacon, a pint of 03'sters, and some roast chestnuts, and season with salt, mace, and nutmeg. \Vhen the pie-dish is full, lay slices of butter on the top of it, cover it with paste, and bake. When done, lift up the Hd, and put into the pie four raw eggs beaten up with a little butter, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherrj'. Brighton Rock. Blanch and pound to a paste tlrree ounces of sweet and one of bitter almonds, using a little rose-water to moisten. Add four ounces of clean currants, and mix one pound of dry flour with half a pound of sifted loaf sugar and the almond paste. Stir into this half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, and mix all well together. The cakes may be baked in small pans or dropped in lumps on floured tins, and cooked for ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Brill, To Boil. This fish closely resembles the turbot, and is boiled in the same manner. Choose a thick fish, and see that it is quite fresh, which may be known by the yellowish hue of the flesh. Clean, cut oif the fins, and lay it in salt and water for one hour, or rub it over with the juice of a lemon and a little salt. Put it into a fish-kettle with water to cover, and salt in the proportion of thi-ee ounces to each gallon of water. Add a little vinegar, bring it to a boil, and continue to simmer gently until the fish is done. Lay it on a dish with the white side uy). Garnish with fried parslej', sliced lemon, and a sprinkling of lobster coral, and serve on a napkin. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to boil. Brioche, or French Paste. To make this excellent French paste, take two pounds of fine dry flour, and separate eight ounces of it to make the leaven. Place this last into a pan, and mix it with half a pint of yeast and a little warm water. Throw a cloth over the pan, and put it near the fire for about twenty minutes to rise. Jleanwhile make a hoUow space in the centre of the remaining flour, and put into it half an ounce of salt, half an ounce of finely-sifted sugar, and an eighth of a pint of cream, or some milk if there is no cream. Add a pound of good dry fresh butter cut into small pieces ; put them into the flour, and pour over all six eggs well beaten. Work all this with the hand until the whole is quite smooth. If the flour will take one or two eggs more, add them ; but the paste must not be so soft as to adhere to the board or roller. When the leaven is well risen, spread the paste out and the leaven over it, and knead well together. Then cut into small portions and mix again, that the leaven may be thoroughly and equally incorporated with the other ingredients. Next, dust some floui- on a cloth and roll the brioche (for so it is now called) in it. Put it in a pan, and set it in a cool place in summer, and in a warm place in winter. Use it the early part of the following day ; then knead it afresh, and if the French form is desired, make into balls of uniform size. Hollow them at the top by pressing the thumb into them ; brush them over with eggs, and put a second much smaller ball into the hollow part of each. Glaze again Avith yolk of egg, and bake them for half an hour in a quick oven ; or the brioche may be formed into cakes and placed on a tin, and supported with pasteboard to prevent the flattening of the cakes. Brioche may also be used as a paste to enclose rissoles, or to make rolls for jams or jellies, or even for rol an vent ; but to many persons it is unpalatable on account of the large proportion of butter and eggs. Average cost, 2s. 6d. Broad Beans {xce Beans, Broad). I Brocoli, Boiled. Trim off all leaves j that are not required or liked, and place the I brocoK in a pan of salted water to kill any I insects, &c., that may have taken shelter under i the stalks. Wash them well, and put them into an uncovered saucepan of boiling water, with a large table-spoonful of salt to every half gallon of water. Keep them boiling till done, which will be in about ten or fifteen minutes, according to size. Drain them directly they are done, or ? they will lose colour and become sodden. I Brocoli, To Pickle. Choose the finest, whitest, and closest vegetables before they arc ! quite ripe. Pare oft' all green leaves and the i outsides of the stalks. Parboil them in well; salted water. When drained and dry, pull of I the branches in convenient-sized pieces, and put I them into a jar of pickle prepared as for onions. j Time to parboil, four or five minutes. Probable I cost, from 2d. to 6d. i Broil, To. In broiling, the first consideraI tion is the gridiron. This should be kept most I scrupulously bright and clean. It should never \ be put away dirtj', but be polished and rul)bed i diy eveiy tinie it is used, and carefuUj- freed from ; grease, &c., between the bars, as well as on the , top of them. It should be placed over the fire ! for four or live minutes ifcHbe heated through j before being used, but not made so hot that it ' will burn the meat ; and after that it should be well rubbed with mutton suet if meat is to be cooked, and with chalk for fish ; and it is important that a separate gridiron should be kept for those two. The gridiron should be placed a little above the fire, and held in a slanting direction, so that the fat which flows from it BKO (82) BUG may not dxop upon the cinders, and so cause a smoke oi' flame. If these should arise, the gridii-on may be lifted, away for a moment till they have subsided. The fire must be clear, bright, and tolerably strong, made of cinders mixed with a little coke or charcoal. A half burnt-out fire is the best. A little salt thrown over it will help to make the fire clear. Sprinkle a little pepper over the meat before it is put upon the bars, but no salt. Turn it frequently with a pair of steak tongs. If these are not at hand, and it is necessary to use a fork, put it into the fat part of the meat, never into the lean, or the juice will escape. If, before turning the meat, a little gravy has settled upon it, drop it carefully on the dish upon which the meat is to be served. Chops and steaks of beef and mutton are generally preferred rather underdone ; but lamb and pork chops must be well cooked. Sprinkle a little salt upon the dish before placing the meat upon it, and mix with it, if liked, a little ketchup ; but, generally speaking, the juice which runs from the meat is the only gravy required. Birds which are cut in halves before broiling should be laid with the inside first to the fire. Cutlets which have been egged and breaded should be dipped in clarified butter before being laid upon the gridiron. Fish should be wrapped in well-buttered paper before being broiled, or, if this is not done, it should be washed in vinegar, well dried, and dredged with flour. Broiling is by no means difficult if care and attention be given to it. It should always be done the last thing, as the meat should be taken quickly from the fire to the table, and the dishes and plates used should be made as hot as possible. With these a clean gridiron, a clear fire, good material, and close watchfulness, and the exercise of a little judgment in taking the meat up at the right moment small dainty pieces of meat and fish may be cooked by broiling in a manner superior to that which can be obtained by any other process of cookery. BroS6 Boef {see Beef, Brose). Broth, Strengthening, Put into a vessel one pfiuud ni the ni'ck of mutton, and the same (Quantity of fillet of veal, cut up into small pieces, with six pints of water. Afterwards add a handful of chervil, a little wild endive, and two small lettuces, all being previously cut small. Boil the whole for thi-ee hours over a gentle fire, strain, and salt the broth. Brown Boux, or Thickening, Melt half a pdund of butter in a well-tinned saucepan ; dredge in flour till it becomes a paste, stirring it all the time. Put it, for a few minutes, over a quick fire, but be careful it does not burn; the colour should be a light brown. Draw it aside to simmer, and stir well; then put it into a jar for use. Close tightly, and it will keep good for some time. Brown Sauce. Melt two ounces of butter in a small saucepan, and add one ounce of flour, stirring until it is of a brown colour. Then add sufficient boiling water to render it of a cream-like consistency, and season to taste with salt and pepper. i Brown Soup, Cut into small pieces the j following vegetables : One pound of tm-nips, the same of carrots, half a pound of celery, and six ounces of onions. Put these into a pan with fonr ounces of butter, and let them stew, with occasional stii-ring, till brown. Boil one pint and a half of peas, and using them with sufficient boiling watCi to make the entire quantity about three quarts. Add half a pound of toasted bread, season with black peppercorns, Jamaica pepper, and salt. Boil gently for three or four hours, then strain through a coarse sieve, and return it to the j rnn. When it boils it is ready for the table. Brown Soup (another way). Slice and fry in butter half a dozen carrots, with the same quantity of turnips, four potatoes, four onions, and three heads of celery. Put them into a pan with five quarts of boiling water. Let them stew four or five hours, then strain through a sieve, season with pepper and salt, then boil and serve. Brussels Sprouts, Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts. Put them into plenty of fast-boiling water. The sudden immersion of the vegetables will check the boiling for some little time, but they must be brought to a boil as quickly as possible, that they maj hot lose their green colour ; add a table-spoonful of salt and a little piece of soda, and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining them when sufficiently done ; and serve plain, or with a little wliite sauce over the top. Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per pound, according to the season. Sufficient for a dish, one pound. Brussels Sprouts, Saute, Wash, and drain one pound of sprouts; put them into boiling water for fifteen minutes, with half an ounce of salt to each gallon, and when done, chy them on a clean cloth. Dissolve half an ounce of butter in a pan, and shake the sprouts in it over the fire for a minute or two; season them with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, and serve very hot. Sprouts about the size of a walnut have the most delicate flavour. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, .3d. to 4d. per pound. Bubble and Squeak. Dissolve two or three ounces of butter or beef di-ipping in a frying-pan. Cut some thin slices of cold boiled or roast meat, and fry them slightly, a nice brown. Mix some cold greens of any kind with a few mashed potatoes, shred onion, if liked, salt, and pepper, and fry, stirring all the time. Serve hot, with the vegetables round the dish, and the meat in the middle. Fry for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. without the meat. Buckwheat Cakes, American, These cakes are seen on most American breakfast-tables. Mode of making : To a pint of buckwheat-flour add a large tea-spoonful of baking-powder and a little salt. jNIix to a thin batter, using lukewarm water in cold weather. The frying-pan requires to be only rubbed with grease, and the batter di'opped in in quantities sufficient to cover an ordinary breakfast-plate at one time. When done on one side, turn, and send to tabic very hot BUC (83) BUL and well buttered, or they can be eaten with treacle or, syrup if preferred. Buckwheat Cakes (another way) . Put a large table-spoonful of yeast into a hollow made in tlie middle of one quart of buckwheat, and work it into a light dough with cold water ; cover it up warm by the fire to rise for three hours. When risen enough, the top will be cracked ; then get ready the griddle it should be hot, and well buttered or greased. The cakes may then be proceeded with. Convey with a ladle as much batter as may be wanted, that is, according to the size of the cakes ; when done on one side tui-n, and, when quite baked, butter them as they are removed from the griddle. A fresh supply of butter is required for every cake, but it is sufficient if the griddle be well rubbed with it. Lay them one on the other and divide into quarters. Buckwheat Cakes, Raised. Warm a quart of water. Stir into it a good tablespoonful of treacle aijd a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix in enough buckwheat-flour (or oatmeal or Indian corn-flour) to make a stiff batter, together with a table- spoonful of good yeast. Let it stand to rise before the fire. Then bake on a hot plate, in iron rings, like muffins, or in a slack oven. Toast and serve the cakes hot with butter. BuUaces {see Damsons). Bullock's Brains. Lay some slices of bacon into a stewpan, with onions, carrots, chives, and parsley ; blanch the brains in luke-warm water, and put them in with equal quantities of white wine and stock broth, seasoned with pepper and salt. Stew gently for half an hour, and send to table with fried X)arsley. Bullock's Brains with Tomato Sauce. Stew the brains as directed in the preceding recipe, and when 'quite ready to serve, cover with tomato sauce. Bullock's Heart (a la Mode ). Split open the heart at its thinnest side, without cutting it in two ; take out the arterial cartilage and the coagulated blood left in it ; fll the inside with bacon cut into dice, seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsleJ Tie it round with tape into its original shape. Stew it in a saucepan, covered with broth, and half as much cider, if to be had; add a bunch of sweet herbs, and as many onions and carrots as there is space for. When it has simmered gently for four hours, lay it on a dish, put the carrots and onions round it ; let the liquor boil a few minutes longer to thicken, then pour some of it over the heart, and serve the rest in a saiiceboat. If preferred, flavour the latter with mushi'oom ketchup and a little red wine, which will give to the heart the flavour of hare. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bullock's Heart, To Roast. AVash the heart well, then fill all the openings at the top, or broad end, with a stuffing composed of crumb of bread, chopped suet, parsley, pepper, and salt, moistened with an egg and a little milk ; suspend with the pointed end downwards. An hour and a half or two hours, according to the degree of heat, will cook the heart : it should be well done. Send to table with beef gravy. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 23. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bullock's Heart, To Roast (another way). Boil the heart for one hour or more, before roasting; it will be less indigestible, and will take away, to some extent, the grease so generally complained of. Before boiling see that it is perfectly clean, and all the unnecessary parts cut off. Put it into hot water, bring it quickly to a boil, and then simmer one hour and a half. Prepare a veal stuffing ; fill up the cavities, fastening them with coarse strong thread. Baste unsparingly with butter, and roast before a moderate fire from one to two hours,- according to size. Serve with the gravy on a very hot dish. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to "is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bullock's Heart, with Onions. Prepare a stuffiing of tln-ee ounces of bread-crumb, two ounces of onion, parboiled and finely cut, half an ounce of powdered sage, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the heart as directed in precedingrecipe. It should be served with good brown gravy and apple sauce. Time to boil, one hour ; to roast, from one and a half to two hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bullock's Kidney, Fried. Cut up a biiUock's kidney into very thin slices, dust plentifully with flour, and season with pepper and salt. Place an ounce of butter into a saucepan ; as soon as it begins to melt, put the sliced and seasoned kidney to it ; add a little cold water, just enough to prevent birrning, or, if to be had, use cider instead. Add a table-spoonful of ketchup. Keep shaking and stii-ring over a gentle fire, but do not let it come to a boil ; if it does, the kidney will be hard and tasteless. The secret of success consists in not letting it cook too much, too fast, or too long. Lay bits of toasted bread round the edge of a dish; with a spoon put the kidney in the middle, give the gravy a boil up, and pour over it. Some cooks garnish with sliced lemon, and stew in port or champagne ; for the latter, the cider is not a bad substitute, and is more easily I obtained. I Bullock's Kidney, Fried (another way). I Soak a bullock's kidney for an hour or more I in warm water. Cut it into thin slices, drain, I dry, and season with peiJi er and salt, and dredge i them lightly with flour. Fry in butter until I they become a light-brown colour; put the slices roimd a dish, doubling them a little one over the other. Make a gravy with the butter in the pan, and a small quantity of floiu- to thicken. Add two dessert-spoonfuls of sauce piquante, with a tea-spoonful of sugar, and pour into the centre of the dish. Time to fry, from eight to ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. od. Sufficient for thi'ce persons. Bullock's Kidney Rissoles. Beat up the yolk of an egg with an ounce of butter melted before the fire. Take some slices of cold BUL (84) BUL teef kidncj- and the same of bacon; dip the liacon into the egg-mixture and lay it on the kidney. Boil two eggs hard; cut them into sliuis "and lay them on the bacon ; the mixture Avill cement all three together. Proceed until all the kidney, bacon, and egg be used up. Strew bread-crumb over, fry a light-brown colour, and send to table with a good gi-avy. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, without kidney or bacon, Gd. Bullock's Kidney, Stewed. Fry the slices of a kidney in butter until they become a light-bro-wTi. Sprinkle them with pepper and salt. Make a gravy with the butter, a little flour, and warm water ; then put the slices into the stewpan with the gravy, and stew over a slow fire until quite tender. A little mushroom ketchup may be added. Time, about twenty minutes. Cost of kidney, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Bullock's Liver for Gravy. This liver may be and is used by many fried with bacon, biit it is more generally used for gra\y in made dishes. It is excellent for this purpose prepared in the following manner : After being well cbained, lay it in a dish with salt well spread over every side ; let it stay twentyfour hours, then drain, and hang it in a di-y place, to use when required. Bullock's Tongue (a la Francjaise). This is a very superior mode of cooking a tongue-. Get together all the trimmings from poultry-heads, necks, &c., some ham, bacon bones, or veal pairings. Put the tongue into a large stewpan with these remnants, add a small quantity of water, some pepper and salt, a few cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a good-sized onion. "When it has been simmering one hour, throw in a little more water, enough to just cover the tongue ; simmer till done, then strain, and make a glaze of part of the gravy; lay it over the tongue, and send to table ornamented with fancily-made cuttings from boiled carrots and turnips. The remainder of the gravy will be of great use to the cook for sauces. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, Boiled. A tongue for boiling is best fresh from the pickle ; but a di-y one should be soaked twelve hours. Wash BULLOCK S TONGUE FOR TABLE. it well from the salt, and trim off any objectionable part. Put it into a stewpan with plenty of water, and when it has once boiled, simmer very gently till done. It is excellent, though the plan is not economicalj if boiled, or rather simmered, from six to seven hours, and allowed to cool in the liquor ; but, in the ordinary way, a large tongue takes from four to four and a half hours, and a small one from thi-ee to three and a half. Take off the skin and press the tongue into a round shape with a weight on the top, or fasten at each end to a board to keep it straight, if preferred. \Vhcn cold, put some glaze over it, and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 5s. to 63. Bullock's Tongue, Cured. Mix well together equal quantities of salt and sugar a large table-spoonful of each and half a tablespoonful of saltpetre. liub the tongue with a good handful of common salt, and let it lie all night, then drain, and wipe before adding the above mixture. Lay it out on a board, and rub the mixture all over, not omitting to put some into the hole under the tongue. It must be turned and rubbed with a little extra salt for the first two or three days ; then, with a large spoon, moisten the tongue well every morning for a fortnight. A tongue thus pickled will not require any soaking. Probable cost, OS. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, Cured (another way). Procure a tongue, with as little root as possible, from the butcher; but if sent with much on, cut off before salting all that is not required to cook with the tongue, and put it into a slight pickle of salt and water to cleanse it from the slime. Next day drain and salt for a couple of days, when it will be fit for pea-soup. Prepare the' tongue by sprinkling it well with salt, and letting it drain; then rub in the following mixture : A large spoonful of common salt, the same quantity of coarse sugar, half as much saltpetre, two cloves of garlic chopped very fine, and a tea-spoonful of ground pepper. The tongue should be rubbed every day for ten days, and turned as often. It may be dried or smoked. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, Cured (another way). To half an ounce of saltpetre, jjounded, two ounces of common salt, and an ounce and a half of coarse sugar, add a little bay salt, and rub it into a tongue for eight or nine days, turning it even' day. Remove it from the pickle, drain, and hang it in a wann but not hot place, to dry and harden. It may be cooked whole, or a small piece may be cut off as required, and when boiled, grated for gravy. Probable cost, OS. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, Fricasseed (German). Boil a tongue as directed, put some butter into a stewpan, and when it is of a rich golden colour, add some finely-cut onion, cloves, a slice or two of lemon, a cupful of stock, in wliich a small spoonful of flour has been mixed, and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Place slices of tongue in the pan with this sauce, to which may be added sardines or mushrooms (the Germans like a mixture of tastes), and simmer in the usual way for ten minutes. Serve up the slices of tongue with the sauce poured over. Time, twenty minutes to stew. Probable costj from OS. to 6s. BUL ( 85 ) BUR Bullock's Tongue, Larded (u la Berlin). Wlit-n tho tongue has boiled for tliiee hours, remove it, but do not throw away the liquor. Peel ott' the skin, lard the tongue with bacon, and put it into a stewpan with a little of the liquor, a few wilver button onions, which have been first fried, a glass of wine, a little sugar, and Hour to thicken; stew the tongue in this for an hour, then add the juice of half a lemon, and servo. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, Miroton of. Fry some slices of onion, shallot, chives, and parsley, in butter ; they should be cut small, and fried a pale brown. Add a little Hour, mixed with a little good gravy, or jelly, and stir till thickish ; then lay in sUces of ox tongue, seasoned with spice and salt, and simmer for fifteen minutes. Pound some capers and an anchovy, with a little -sinegar ; make all hot, and pour over the tongue. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per pound. One pound suflicient for a dish. Bullocks' Tongues, Pickled and Baked. Prepare the following ingredients: Two ounces of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a few cloves, a blade of mace, and some allspice, all pounded together ; add them to six ounces of salt, and thi-ee ounces of course brown sugar; mix well, and rub it into the tongue, and turn it every day for fifteen days, then put it into the oven with some butter over it, in pieces, and a common crust over all. Bake until very tender ; try it with a wooden skewer if it offers no resistance it is ready. Peel, and straighten it out on a board, and when cold, glaze and send to table with a ruffle round the root. Probable cost, os. to 6s. Bullock's Tongue, with Piquante Sauce. Many people forget, or do not, perhaps, know, that an ox tongue may be served in many different ways besides cold boiled. The following makes a handsome dish, and where people are accustomed to continental cookery will be sure to be appreciated: Wash a fine tongue in cold and then throw it into boiling water. Let it boil for half an hour; take it out, drain, and put it into a clean pan covered with cold water. Simmer it for two hours, then add two or three carrots, turnips, a bunch of celery, and sweet herbs ; simmer another hour, remove the tongue and skin it. Next, get a stewpan, and put into it some small onions, two bay-leaves, a few cloves, peppercorns, a sprig of thj-mo, a slice of ham, and a scraped carrot, -n-ith about a quart of the liquor the tongue was boiled in. Place the tongue in last of all, cover down tightly, and stew two hours, ? len done, put the tongue on a hot dish. Thicken the sauce with flour, mustard, and scraped horse-radish (a very small quantity) ; give it one boil, pour over the tongue, and serve. "When too large for a small party, cut the tongue in haK before stewing it. The one half may be served as directed, and the other half may be pressed into a mould, covered with a glaze, and served cold for breakfast, lunch, &c. Probable cost of a tongue, 5s. to 6s. One-half sufficient for five or six persons. Buns. Directions for compounding tho following buns will bo found under their respective headings : ? American Bri AKl AST H.INOVER Bath Hot Cros Chester Madeira Christmas (Scotch) Plain Devonshire Pllm Endcliffe Scotch Geneva Spanish Good Friday Windsor. Guernsey Buns, Light Tea. Take one pound of flour, half a tea-spoonful of tartaric acid, and the same quantity of carbonate of soda, and work all well together through. a sieve ; then rub two ounces of butter into the flour, being very careful to leave no lumps. \Vhen this is thoroughly mixed, add a quarter of a poimd of well-di'ied currants, two ouiijcs of sifted sugar, and a very few caraway-seeds. Next, mix half a pint of milk with one egg, make a hole in the middle of the flour, and pour in the milk, working it all lightly together. Do not touch the dough with the hand, or the buns dll be heavy, but place it in lumps on the baking-tin with a fork. Probable cost for a dozen cakes. Is. Bun Pudding. Take as many stale buns as a dish will contain thout crowding ; mix a custard, allowing five eggs to a quart of milk ; season it Mith sugar and any kind of spices. Pour the custard over the buns, and let it stand and soak one or two hom-s. When it is all absorbed, bake it an hour and a half. This makes a very economical and pleasant pudding for a family where there are many children. Burdwan, Indian. This dish is much appreciated in India, and almost any kind of cold meat may be used for it. Venison, however, has the preference, but poultry may be so cooked as to ensure success. Take a tablespoonful of minced Spanish onion and half the quantity of shallot. To this put a pint of cold water, a mild seasoning of cayenne pepper, a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and an ounce of butter, mixed with a tea-spoonful of flour. Let this sauce simmer, after it has come to a boil, about a quarter of an hour, or until the onion is tender ; then add to it a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar and a glass or two of Madeira. Draw the stewpan near the fire, and place the meat into it if a fowl, divide it into joints and strip oft' the skin when hot through, draw still nearer to the fire, but it should not be allowed to boil. If the fowl has been roasted, it may be sent to table when just on the point of boiling; but if only partly cooked before, allow it to simmer from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Many additional sauces may be used, and the juice of a lime or Seville orange pressed into it before serving ; but care should be taken that no strong flavoui- of any particular sauce predominates. Sufficient for three or four persons. Burdwan Stew. Any cold roast or boiled lamb, poultry, or game wiU do well for this. Make a sjvuce as follows : To half a pint of BUR (86) BUT good gravy iii a stewpan add a tea-spoonful of soy and cayenne, and the same of lemon pickle, mushroom ketchup, and cucumher vinegar. A fowl previously cooked should be jointed, and it will only require to he heated thi-ough in the sauce. Pat it on the fire until it comes to a hoil, when it will he ready to serve. It must bo served hot. Suitable for an entree. Burnt Almonds {see Almonds, Burnt) . Butter (a I'Espagnol). Put haK an ounce of isinglass, one glassful of rose-water, and six bitter almonds, blanched and sliced, into an enamelled saucepan, and let it stand near the fire for an hour, or until the isinglass is dissolved and the flavour extracted from the almonds. Add, by degrees and very carefully, half a pint of cream mixed with the yolks of three well-beaten eggs. Sweeten to taste, and stir it well over a slow fire until it thickens. Remove it from the fire, and continue to stir until nearly cold, and put it into a mould well wetted with rose-water. Time to thicken, about ten minutes. Probable cost for one pint mould, 2s. Butter (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Eub a very little flour into a quarter of -a pound of butter ; put it into a stewpan with a little parsley, scalded and minced, and salt and pepper. Work it well with a wooden spoon, and squeeze a little lemon juice into it. This should only be made for immediate use. Or, mix four ounces of butter with two spoonfuls of chopped parsley, salt, a salt-spoonful of white pepper, and the juice of two small lemons. Probable cost, 6d. Butter (a la Maitre d' Hotel: another way). Tie up a bunch of parsley and boU it for a short time ; drain, and chop it very fine, and add it to some melted butter so as to make a thick paste. Make it hot, and serve. This is a common sauce for boiled veal. Butter, Black. -Take raspberries, strawberries, gooseb.erries, currants, or any other fruit, and boil them with one pound of sugar to every two pounds of fruit. Boil well, and until the quantity is reduced to two-thirds, then put into pots. This forms a useful and agreeable preserve for children. Butter, Brown. Melt six ounces of butter in a stewpan over the fire untO. it becomes of a brown colour, and then allow it to become cold. Take another stewpan, and put into it a cupful of vinegar with pepper, which reduce one-third by boiling. When the butter is cold, add it to the vinegar and pepper, stir all up well, and wann it over the fire, care being taken that it is not allowed to boil. If the butter is not cool before adding it to the vinegar it will spurt over the sides of the vessel. As the usual taste of the batter is entirely destroyed by the heat to which it is subjected, it will be found that an article of the cheapest kind wiU answer for this purj ose as weH as the best . Butter, Brown (German method) . Take any quantity of butter required to be browned, and j)ut it into an iron saucepan over a slow fire. Stir until it assumes the colour wanted, taking care that it does not bum. What is required to be dipped in this brown butter should be prepared beforehand, and dipped just before serving. Time, about ten minutes. Butter, Burnt Sauce. Brown two ounces of batter in a frying-pan ; stir until it is of a good colour, then add a tea-spoonful of salt, a veiy little cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar. This sauce is recommended by Dr. Kitchener as excellent to serve over poached eggs or for broiled fish. Probable cost, 4d. Butter, Clarified. Melt some butter in a perfectly clean saucepan; remove the scum, &c., which will rise to the top, and let it stand by the side of the fire for all impurities to sink to the bottom. Strain it carefully through a sieve, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the saucepan. Butter should be clarified before it is used to cover potted meats, (fee. When it is hot it may be used instead of olive-oil, and is liked better than oil by many cooks, both for salads and for other pm-poscs. Time to melt, about three minutes. Butter, Clarified (another way). Dissolve the butter before the fire, and have ready a clean jar in which to pour it. There is much waste in straining clarified butter, and this is not necessarj if it be stirred once or twice whilst melting, then allowed to stand and carefully thrown into the jar, so as to leave the sediment behind. Tie it down securely to keep it from the air. Butter, Creamed. To reduce butter to cream beat it in a bowl with the hand in a contrary direction to that observed in making cream into butter. Any water or milk must be thrown off. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Butter, Fairy. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds, adding a little orangeflower water. Wash a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and beat it to a paste with six yolks of hard boiled eggs, a little grated lemonpeel, and sifted loaf sugar. Mix all together with a wooden spoon, and work it tlirough a colander. Serve it, on biscuit soaked in wine, piled up very high. Probable cost, without wine, Is. 6d. Butter for Cold Dish.es. Pound the following ingredients in a mortar, and reduce them to a smooth paste : One clove of garlic, six hard boiled yolks of eggs, a sj oonful of capers, and a seasoning of mace and allspice ; moisten Tsdth a little tarragon -vinegar and a glassful of salad-oil, and then add eight ounces of butter, with spinach -juice enough to make the butter green. Pound all till very smooth, and set it on ice to get firm, when it may be used for the decoration of cold meats, fish, salads, &c. Probable cost, Is. 8d. to 2s., according to the price of butter. Butter, Melted. Mix a little flour with a quarter of a pound of butter. Put it, -wath a wine-glassful of water, into a saucepan, stir one way until melted, and when thick and only just boiled, it is ready. A superior melted butter may be made by using cream instead of water, and leaving out the floui\ It should not be allowed to boil. BUT (S7) BUT Butter, Melted (another way). Take a piece of butter the size of a hen's egg, cut it into three or four slices, and work in as much of a dessert-spoonful of flour as the butter will take up. Put this into a saucepan with threequarters of a pint of cold water, keep stirring in one du-ection as the butter melts, and dust in what remains of the flour. When they are well mixed, smooth, and the sauce boils up, it is ready for serving. Or the lump of butter may be simply put in the saucepan with cold water, gradually dusting in the flour as it warms and melts. This rough-and-ready way requires careful management to prevent the flour from gathering into knots. Good melted butter, even if smooth, should not be too thick or past)'. It vnll acquire that condition by being kept waiting too long at the side of the stove. In that case it can easily be thinned by the addition of more butter and a little warm water. Butter, Melted (for fish a la Hollandaise). Put into a pan some butter, with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Simmer all gently, continually stining the butter with a wooden spoon, until it is half melted. Then remove the pan from the fire, and continue to stir it until it becomes quite liquid, care being taken not to allow the butter to remain on the fire for too long a time, other \'ise its flavour will be impaired. Butter, Melted, Prench. Rub a tablespoonful of flour into a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter, put it into a clean stewpan, with a little salt, half a spoonful of white vinegar, a wine-glassful of water, and a httle nutmeg. Stir it over the fire till it thickens; but the flavour will not be so good if it boils. Or, melt a quarter of a poxmd of butter without flour ; keep the pan in motion till quite hot. The best butter should always be used for melting purposes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to Is. lOd. per pound. Buttered Mushrooms. Rub the stems of young mushrooms with salt to cleanse them, then rinse in salted water, and dry in a cloth. Put two ounces of fresh butter into a ste' Tpan, over a very slow fire, and when the butter is of a beautiful pale brown, put the stems in, and shake them about to prevent the butter from oiling and the stems from burning. When tender, serve them with their own gravy, arranged high on the dish. It is an excellent relish, and requires no sauce. Buttered Toast. Cut rather thick slices from a square stale loaf ; place them near the fire to keep soft, and brown both sides alike ; have a hot plate ready to put them oa, and butter according to taste. Some like it buttered on both sides. Pare oflE the crusts and serve, covered up hot. For dry toast the slices should be cut thin, and held at a distance from the fire to make it crisp. A little movement of the hand ? \-ili help this. Butter Preserved with Honey. Wash and press the butter imtil it is quite free from milk. Put it into a jar, and place it into boiling water. When it is clarified, and just before boiling, remove it from the water to a, cool place ; take off the scum, and work it up in the i roportion of two ounces of honey to every two pounds of butter. This mode of preparation will be found very convenient where butter is eaten with sweet dishes. It will keep as long as salted butter if the air be properly excluded from it. Butter, Ravigote (a la Gouffe). This butter is composed of the following ingredients, pounded together in a mortar : First, blanch fti boiling water for two minutes, one pound of herbs tarragon, mixed chervil, burnet, chives, and cress tlien press out the water by squeezing them in a cloth. Put them, with half a dozen well-washed anchovies, and the same of hard boiled eggs, into a mortar, add a piece of garlic (about the size of a pea), a seasoning of salt and pepper, two ounces of gherkins, and two ounces of capers ; these last should be well squeezed from the vinegar. 'WTien well pounded and smoothed through a sieve they are to be mixed with two pounds of butter, two table-spoonfuls of oil, and one of tarragon vinegar, and again pounded and mixed for use. Butter, Salt (Scottish method). Put the butter into a tub of clean water, press it thoroLighly with the hand or a broad butterbeater until the water is entirely removed. Lay it out on a board and spiiakle it with salt, an ounce to every three pounds of butter. Work and beat it well. Then make a brine strong enough to float an egg ; add two ounces of loaf sugar, and boil it ; when quite cold, put some of this prepared pickle to the butter, and press and squeeze ofi: the water. If it does not come off clear, repeat the washing in fresh pickle. The kit or tub for storing is filled up within two inches of the top with butter, the pickle thrown on it, and a clean linen cloth over aU. The lid of the kit must then be well secxrred. Butter Sauce. Season a cupful of flour with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cloves. Mix it with some water into a paste, and work in a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Put the thin paste into a pan over the fire, and boil it for a quarter of an hour, then take it ofl:', and add some fresh butter in small poiiions at a time, continually stirring the contents to prevent the butter from I'ising to the surface. Afterwards add some vinegar and mix thoroughly. This sauce is used with fish and boiled vegetables. Butter Sauce (another way). Put a quarter of a pint of melted butter into an enamelled saucepan over a slow fire see that it does not brown and two well-whisked eggs, carefully stirring all the time till it thickens. Remove before it boils, and pour in a little lemon-juice. Time, about three or fom- minutes. Butter Scones. Take a pint of thin cream, salt it to taste, and stir it into flour enough to make a dough of the proper consistency. Knead well, roll out thin, and form into scones ; prick them vnth a fork, and bake over a clear fire on a griddle. Butter should be served with them ; they ai-e excellent for breakfast or tea. BUT (88) CAB Butter Seasoned with. Pepper. Work up some butter with powdered pepper, and serve as soon as prepared. Butter and other spices may be prepared in a similar manner. Butter, To Keep, in Summer. Place the butter-dish into a basin containing water, within two inches of the top. Thi-ow a piece of muslin, which has been well wetted, but wrung to prevent any moisture di'ipping into the butter, over it, and allow the ends to fall into the water. Or, turn a large Hower-pot, around which a woollen cloth has been tied, previously well soaked in water, over the butterdish, and stand it on a stone iloor. In this latter plan all that is needed is to keep the woollen cloth moist ; in the former, to change the water every day, and rinse the muslin. Butter, To Preserve without Salt. Dissolve the butter very gently in a clean pan over the fire. All the watery particles will evaporate, and the curd which is the cause of the butter becoming rancid will fall to the bottom. It should not boil. Throw the butter into a clean vessel, keeping out the sediment and excluding the air by means of a bladder tied over the top. "When cool it resembles lard. It will also lose some of its flavour, but it is superior to salt butter for culinary uses, and esj)ecially for pastry. Butter, Truffled. To those who like the flavour of truffles, an economical method of procuring it is to dissolve a pound of butter, skim and simmer for four or five minutes, and when the sediment settles, pour the top into an enamelled saucepan over some small thick slices of French truffles. Add a seasoning of salt, l ounded mace, cayenne, and nutmeg. Heat the truffles slowly and shake the pan well round ; draw it aside, and stew twenty minutes, or until j the truffles are tender ; then remove them and ] pour the butter into pots for use. This butter will be an excellent addition to any mode of cooking a fowl or turkey, or for frying any light dish of veal, hard eggs, or similar preparations. The truffles thus prepared may be used for any sauce required for poultry, veal, tongue, sweet-breads, or other light dish ; or, warmed again, they will serve as a garnish. Buttermilk Cakes. Take one pint of buttermilk, and stir into it as much flour as will form a dough, with one table-spoonful of dissolved carbonate of ammonia. Roll the dough out in sheets, cut the cakes, and bake them in a moderate oven. The carbonate of ammonia maj' be obtained at any of the druggists ; it is the common smelling-salts, without any of the aromatic drugs. It never imparts any taste to the food, as the heat disengages the carbonic acid gas and the ammonia. Buttermilk Scones or Bread. To one pound of flour add one tea-spoonful of salt; mi.x fifty gi-ains of carbonate of soda with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and rub them into the flour. When thoy are well blended together, mix the flour into a stiff: dough with some buttermilk or milk will do but no time should be lost in putting it into tho oven, or the bread will be heavy. It requires a well-heated oven. but not a strong one. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, from 3d. to 4d. Sufficient for a small loaf. Cabbage (ala LiUoise). Wash and drain a large cabbage, and, after removing the stalk, cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and fry in it for a minute or two a small tea-spoonful of finely-chopped onion. Add the cabbage, with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Cook it over a slow fire, and turn it frequently to prevent burning. Place on a hot dish and serve. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, -Id. or od. Sufficient for four persons. Cabbage, Boiled. Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages. Wash them thorouglily, and lay them for a few minutes in water, to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Di-ain them in a colander. Have ready a large pan of boilingwater, with a table-spoonful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbages boil quickly tiU tender, leaving tho saucepan uncovered. Take them uj) as soon as they are done, drain them thoroughly, and serve. Time to boil : young summer cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes ; large cabbages or savoys, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, one moderate-sized cabbage for two persons. Cabbages, Boiled (another way). Cut off the stalk, remove the faded outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages. Wash them thoroughly, and lay them for a few minutes in water to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added for the purpose of destroying any insects that may be present. Drain them in a colander. Put them in a largo saucepan of boiling water, to which a tablespoonful of salt and a very small piece of soda have been added, and let them boil quickly for six minutes, pressing them doAvn two or three times to keep them well under the water. Then take them out and throw them into another saucepan prepared just like the first. Let them boil ten minutes, and repeat the process, letting them boil the third time until tender. Serve as hot as possible, with melted butter or white sauce pom-ed over them. Time : small summer cabbage, twenty minutes or more ; large cabbage, from half to threequarters of an hour. Sufficient, one small cabbage for two persons. Cabbage Cake. Boil a large cabbage tiU it is quite tender. Drain the water from it, and chop it small. Butter the inside of a piedish, and dust it with finely-grated breadcrumbs. Place on these a layer of chopped cabbage about an inch thick, then a layer of cold beef or mutton finely minced and flavoured ; repeat imtil the pie-dish is nearly full, making the top laver of the cabbage. Lay three or four CAB (89) CAB ra )ver it, and put the dish in a mi Vhen it is heated thoroughly, an loked, tui-n it out as from a mi good brown gravy round it. Ti ilf an houi-. Probable cost, w) :ieat, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient, a smau pie-oasn luii for thi-ee or four persons. Cabbage and. Bacon. Boil a piece of pickled pork until it is about three-cjuarters cooked. Then take it out of the water, drain it, and place two or three rashers of bacon in the saucepan. Lay on these a cabbage which has been thoroughly washed and cut into quarters, and put the pork over the cabbage. Cover the whole with lucely-flavoiux'd stock ; add pepper, nutmeg, and pai-sley, but no salt, as it will most hkely be found there is sufficient in the bacon and stock. Sinmicr gently until the cabbage is cooked. Place the vegetables on a hot dish with the pork in the midst of them ; thicken the gravy, and pour it over the whole. Time to boil the cabbage, twenty minutes. Sufficient for four or live persons. Cabbage, Creamed.. Thoroughly cleanse two young cabbages, and boil them until quite soft. Take them out, di'ain, and press them between two hot plates until they are di-y, when they may be slightly chopped. ]\relt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, add pepper and salt, then put in the cabbage, and turn it about for two or three minutes. When it is thoroughly heated, dredge a tablespoonful of tiour over it, and mix with it very gradually a cupful of milk or cream. Serve on a hot dish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Id. or 2d. each. Sufficient for tlu-ee or four persons. Cabbage Jelly. Boil a cabbage imtil it is tender, place it in a colander, and drain the water thoroughly from it. Then chop it small, and mLx with it a little pepper, salt, and butter. Press it into a well-oiled mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient for four persons. Cabbage, Bed, Pickled..- The cabbage should not be cut until it has been slightly frost-bitten. Choose a firm, hard cabbage. Eemove the outer leaves and cut it as finely as possible in cross slices. The finer it is cut ;ho nicer will be the pickle. Put it in a largo shallow dish with a layer of salt spread over it, and let it remain for twenty-four hoius ; then squeeze the purple juice thoroughly from it, and place it in pickle- jars, strewing between every handful a little black pepper and bruised ginger. Fill the jars with cold vinegar, or better still, vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to become cold, and cork securely. It is ready for use at once. The French vinegar is the best for pickling. Probable cost of a good-sized red cabbage, 4d. to 6d. Cabbage, Bed, Stewed. Prepare a large cabl)age as if it were going to be pickled. Melt two ounces of butter, or of good beef diipping, in a saucepan, lay the cabbage upon it, and cover it with a cupful of vinegar and a pint of nicely-flavoured stock. \ len it is quite tender, season it with salt and 7 pepper, di-ain it, and lay it on a hot dish, and arrange sausages round and over it. If preferred the cabbage may be pressed into a mould and poached eggs served with it. It will warm up again perfectly. Time, one hoxu-. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. Sufficient, one large cabbage for four or five persons. Cabbage, Savoy, and Brussels Sprouts. Wash and pick off the outer leaves. Place the vegetables in a pan of boiling water, to which has been added a handful of salt and a veiy small piece of soda. Let them boil quickly until tender. Drain the water from them, and serve as hot as possible. Pepper slightly, and spi'ead a little butter over them. Send a little melted butter to the table with them, but not on them. Savoys should be drained from the water, and may be pressed into the dish, and cut in squares. The best way to keep greens a good coloiu' is to put them into the saucepan when the water is boiling ; keep them boiling fast all the time ; let them have plenty of room and plenty of water ; let them be uncovered, and take them up as soon as they are cooked. Time, ten minutes for sprouts, twenty minutes for savoys. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Two pounds wiU be sufficient for four or five persons. Cabbage Soup. Put two ounces of butter or good dripping into a stewpan, and fry in it two sliced onions ; brown the onions nicely. Poui- on them two quarts of flavoxired stock, and add two pounds of pickled pork, which must not be too salt. Simmer gently foihalf an hour, and skim well. Skred finely two small cabbages, two turnips, two carrots, and a head of celery, and throw them into the boiling liquor. When the vegetables are tender without falling to pieces, the soup will be ready. Time to prepare, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per quai-t. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cabbage, Stuffed. Choose a goodsized firm young cabbage. Wash it thoroughly, and lay it in water, to which has been added a table-spoonful of vinegar. Let it remain for half an hour, then di-ain it, cut off the stalk, and scoop out the heart, so as to make a tpace for the stuffing, which may be made of sausagemeat, mixed with chestnuts cut small, or any flavoiu'ing that may be preferred. Press the forcemeat into the cabbage, cover it with leaves, which must be well tied on with tape to prevent escape. Place the cabbage in a saucepan with some slices of bacon above and below it, and cover the whole with nicely-flavoiu'ed stock. Let it stew gently for half an hour. Take out the cabbage, remove the tape, place it on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or fom* persons. Cabbage, To keep Fresh. Have the cabbages cut with two or three inches of stalk, of which the pith must be taken out v.'ithout injuring the rind. Hang the cabliages up by the stalk, and fill the hollow with a little fresh water every day. Cabbages will thus keep fresh for four or five weeks. Cabbage, Turnip Tops, and G reens. Talrc seme cold greens or turnip tops, di-edge CAB (90) CAK a littlo flour over them, and fry them in boiling butter or lard imtil they are slightly browned. Strew a littlo salt and pepper over them, and servo hot. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Cabinet Pudding, Boiled. Put a pint of new milk into a saucejian with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and the rind of a lemon. Let it nearly boil, to extract the flavoui- of the lemon, then add to it three well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould rather thickly, and ornament it with stoned raisins, candied peel, lemon-rind, or in any other way; then fill it with alternate layers of sliced sj onge cake, currants, and raisins. Sift a little sugar, and strew a little chopped lemon-rind over each layer of cake. When the mould is nearly full, pour the milk and eggs over the cake, and let it soak for an hour. Put a piece of buttered writing paper over it, tie in a cloth, and let it steam for an horn- and a haK. Serve with wine sauce. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Cabinet Pudding, Cold. Put half an ounce of gelatine, which has been previously soaked in two table -spoonfuls of water, into a saucepan A\-ith a pint of new mUk, the rind of a lomon, and two table-spoonfiils of sugar, and boil all together, stii-ring the liquid until the gelatine is dissolved. Well oil a plain round mould, and fill it vith alternate layers of candied fruits, three parts crimibled macaroons, and Savoy biscuits. Add a little brandy, fill the mould with the milk, and let it stand in a cool place until firm. Time to set, five or six hoiu-s. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Suflicient for foior or five persons. Cabinet Pudding, Plain. Butter a plain round mould ; then fill it with alternate layers of raisins, bread and butter without crust, sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Pour over it a pint of new milk mixed with two wellbeaten eggs ; flavom- and sweeten. Allow it to soak for half an horn- ; then place a plate on the top, and steam it for one hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, lOd. Cabinet Pudding, Rich. Butter a plain round mould; fill it with alternate layers of di'ied apricots or candied fruits of any kind, and crumbled macaroon and Savoy biscuits. Pour a wine-glassful of sherry or brandy over this ; then make a custard of a pint of new milk and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Let the biscuits and other ingreaients soak in the custard for half an hour. Cover the top of the mould with buttered paper, tie it in a cloth, and allow it to steam for one hour. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. Cafe au Lait. Make some strong clear coffee. Poiu- it into the cup Avith an equal quantity of boiling milk, and sweeten according to taste. This is the coft'ee which is served in France for breakfast, and it is both palatable and nutritious. Allow one breakfast - cupful for each person. Probable cost, 4d. per cup. Cafe Noir. This is the cofEee which is handed round in small cups after dessert in France. It is sweetened, but neither milk or cream is added. It should be made exceedingly strong, and will be found useful in wai'ding ofi: the somnolency wliich is often the first result of a good dinner. It should be made in the same way as breakfast coft'ee, allowing a cupful of freshly-ground coft'ee for every fomcupfuls of boiling water. Probable cost, 4d. per cup. A small cupful wiU be sufiicient for each person. Cakes, General Remarks on. In making cakes, great care should be taken that everything wliieh is used should be perfectly dry, as dampness in the materials is very likely to produce heaviness in the cake. It is always best to have each ingredient properly prepared before beginning to mix the cake. Currants should be put into a colander and cold water poui-cd over them two or three times, then spread upon a dish and carefully looked over, so that any little pieces of stone or stalk may be removed. The dish should then be placed before the fire, and the currants turned over frequently until they are quite dry. Butter should be laid in cold water before it is used, and, if salt, should be washed in several waters. It should be beaten with the hand in a bowl till it is reduced to a cream, pouring off the water until no more is left. Flour. The flour for cakes should be of the best quality. It should be weighed after it is sifted and dried. Eggs. Each egg should always be broken into a cup before it is put to the others, as this will j)r event a bad one spoiling the rest. The yolks and whites should be separated, the specks removed, and then all the yolks transferred to one bowl and the whites to another. The yolks may be beaten with a fork till they are light and frothy, but the whites must be whisked till they are one solid froth, and no liquor remains at the bottom of the bowl. The eggs should be put in a cool place till required for use. Wlien the whites only are to be used, the yolks, if unbroken, and kept covered, will keep good for three or foiu- days. ugar. Loaf sugar is the best to use for cakes ; it should be pounded and sifted. Lemon. Peel should be cut very thin, as the white, or inner side, wiU impart a bitter flavour to the cakis. Almonis for cakes should be blanched by being put into boiling water, and when they have been in for a few minutes the skin should be taken off and the almonds tlu-o vn into cold water ts preserve the colour. If they are pounded, a few di-ops of water, rose-water, or white of egg should be added in every two or three minutes, to prevent them oiling. If they are not poimded they should be cut into thin slices or divided length \?ise. Milli. Swiss condensed milk will be found to be excellent for cakes when either cream or milk is wanted ; but when it is used less sugar will be required. Yeast. AMien yeast is used for cakes, less butter and eggs are required. Baking Powder. Nearly all plain cakes wiU be made lighter by the addition of a little baking powder. Moulds for cakes should be thickly buttered, and it is a good plan to place some well-oiled paper between the mould and the cake. CAK ( 91 ) CAK Bak'uig. Small cakes require a quick oven when they arc first put in, to make them rise, but the heat should not be increased after they have begun to bake. Largo cakes should be put into a moderate oven, in order that they may bo well baked in the middle before they are overdone on the outside. In order to ascertain if a cake is sufficiently baked, insert a skewer or knitting-needle into the centre of it, and if it comes out perfectly clean, the cake is sufficiei?tly ready, but if anything is sticking to it, the cake must be put back into the oven at once. Cakes should be gently turned out of the mould when ready, placed on the top of the oven to dry, then laid on theu- sides to cool. They should be kept in a cool place, and in tin canisters, closely covered. A cake keeps better when made without yeast. Cake, Cheap and Wholesome. When bread is made at home, it is easy to make a, good wholesome cake from the dough, of which a little must be taken out of the bowl after it has begun to rise. Allow one ounce of butter, a quai-ter of a pound of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg, some chopped lemon-rind, or candied peel, and either a quarter of a pound of cui-rants or a few bruised caraway-seeds to every pound of dough. Mix these ingredients thoroughly together, di'edge a little flour over them, and place the bowl near the fire, covering it with a thick cloth. When weU risen, put it into buttered tins and bake immediately, for three-quarters of an hour. One pound of dough will bo enough for a cake. Cake, Common. Mix two and a half poimds of flour with half a pomid of brown sugar. ytir in a tea-cupful of good yeast and half a pint of lukewarm milk. Knead these well together, and set the dough near the fire to rise. SVhen it rises, add haK a pound of picked cuii-ants, or two tea-sjioonfuls of carawa j'-seeds, and half a pound of melted butter in another haU' jiint of milk. Knead again, and let the mixtui-e rise once moi-e. Put it into tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hoiu-. The above ingredients will be sufficient for two large cakes. Probable cost, 8d. eacla. Cake, Diet Bread. Beat four eggs, then add to them a quarter of a pound of di-ied flour', and lialf a pound of loaf sugar, with six drops of almond flavouring. When these are well mixed together, place them near the fire to warm, then pour into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for a small mould. Probable cost, 7d. Cakes. Directions for making the following cakes will be found under their respective headin"s : Aberi'rau Ai,n.\NY Almoni), or Maca ROOXS Almond Cheese Almond, Icing for Almond, PlainAlmond, Rich Almond, Sponge American Breakfast, or Griddle American Velvet Breakfast Americ vn White Annie's Apple Apple Tart or Athole Aunt Edward's Christmas aurelian Banburv Batter, of Indian Meal Beef Brain Bread, Fried Breakfast, or Rolls Bride Buckwheat Buttermilk Cabbage Canadian Cheap Children's Christmas Cinnamon Citron Cocoa-nut Cocoa-nut, Pound Cod-fish Corn-meal Corporation Cream Cream of Eice Cream of Tartar Curd Cheese CuRR.iNT Date Derwentwater Dessert Devonshire Devonshire, Short Dover Egg Powder Elecampane or C.\ndy Fish Flame French Frost, or Icing for Genoa Genoese German Ginger Cup GiP.SY Girdle Glove Gooseberry Graham Guernsey Hare Hazel-nut Honey Honey, German Icing for Imperial Indian Griddle Indi.\n Meal, Johnny Irish Irish Griddle Irish Luncheon Irish Sef.I) Johnny, or Journey Josephine Kneaded Lafayette Lemon Lemon, Rich Loaf Ijoaf, Indian Meal Loaf, Luncheon Love LuncheonLuncheon, FROM Dough Luncheon, Plain MacaroonMagdalen Malaprop Manx Meat, Moulded Milk, Breakfast Modena Montrose My Own Neapolitan Nun's Oat Oat, L.\ncashire Oat with Yeast Oatmeal Bannocks Orange Oswego ParisianParliament Passover Paste Petticoat Tails Plain Plum Plum, Common Polish Potato Potato Cheese Pound Pudding QueenQueen's Cinnamon Quince Ratafia Rice Rice Cheese Rusk Sally Lunns Sand Sausage Meat Savarin Savoy Scotch Scotch, Christmas Scotch, Diet Scrap Seed Seed, CommonSeed, Plain Seed, Superior Short Shrewsbury Simple Sn - w Soda Spanish Sponge Sponge, Small Sugar Suster Tea Tipsy Tunbridge Turin CAL (92) CAL Twelfth Water Veal a la Bordyke White Venetian Yeast Victoria Yorkshire Vienna Yule Caledonian Cream. Mix thoroughly two ounces of raspberry jam, two ounces of red currant jelly, and two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, with the whites of two eggs which have been beaten to a firm froth. Beat them for three-quarters of an hour. This makes a very pretty cream, inexpensive and good. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. Calfs Brains (a la FraiKjaise). Fry eighteen button onions to a light brown in butter, stir in a table-spoonful of flour, and then add equal quantities of broth and French red wine, a quarter of a pint or more of each, put in a little salt and pepper, and simmer half an hoiu-. Put the brains into this, remembering first to wash and skia them ; boil them in salted water mixed with a tea-spoonful of vinegar for ten minutes, and lay them in cold water until wanted. Add a dozen small mushrooms, and simmer eight or ten minutes until they are done. Serve with the sauce, and garnish Avith the onions and raushi-ooms. Time to boil the sauce, half an hour. Calf's Brains (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Remove the skin and the fibres from two sets of calves' brains. AVash them several times in cold water, then place them in boiling water, adding a table- spoonful of vinegar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter. Let them boil for a quarter of an hour, then remove and divide them. Cut some thin slices of stale bread into rounds, fry them in boiling butter or oil, place the brains on the bread, and pour over the whole Maitre d' Hotel sauce. Probable cost of the calf's head (the brain is not sold without), 5s. to 9s. Sufficient for three or foiu- persons. Calf S Brains (en Matelote). Wash the biains in several waters, remove the sldn, and boil them in salt and water, with a little vinegar in it, for ten minutes. Take them out and lay them in cold water until they are wanted. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix smoothly with it a tea-spoonful of flonr. Put to this three small onions sliced, then add a table-spoonful of mushroom Icetchup, a clove, a bay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a glass of white wine. When these are mixed thoroughly together, put the brains with them, and let them stew gently until they are done. Time to stew, a quarter of an horn-. Sufficient for two or thi'ee persons. Calf S Brains, Fried. Wash the brains in several waters, take off the sldn and remove the fibres, then boil them in salt and water, with a little vinegtir, for ten minutes. Cut the brains into slices, moisten them with dncgar, salt and pepper, dip them in a little batter, and fry in boiling oil or butter. Fry a bunch of parsley, dry it before the fire, and put it in the middle of a hot dish with the brains round it. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Calf s Brains, Pried (another way). Skin and wash the brains in cold water, and cut them into slices. Soak them for one horn- in two quarts of boiling water salted lightly, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Drain and dip them into a batter made with two table-spoonfuls of baked fioui-, two eggs, and a quarter of a pint of cream ; this batter should be well beaten for fifteen minutes before it is used. Dissolve a good quantity of butter in a frying-pan, and fry each piece, well dipped in batter, till it is a pale brown colour. Send them to table with a bunch of fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and the slices of brains round it. They should be served very hot. Time, fifteen minutes to j Calf s Brains and Green Sauce. i Wash the brains in several waters, remove the j skin, and cut each into foiu' pieces. Put theia ! into a saucepan with a little salt and water, I and let them simmer gently for three-quarters I of an horn-. Put into another saucepan a piece j of butter the size of a large egg ; let it melt, ! then mix smoothly with it a dessert-spoonful of I floui-, a cupful of stock, and a little salt and I pepper. Let these boil up, then stir into the i sauce a dessert-spoonful each of chopped mush1 room, chopped gherkins, and parsley boiled and I minced. Drain the brains, place them on a hot i dish, and pom- the sauce round them. Sufficient i for two persons. Probable cost of sauce, 6d. ! or 7d. the half pint. i Calf s Brains and Parsley. Bemove j the skin and the fibres, and wash the Itrains in i several waters. Boil them in salt and water, to j which has been added a table-spoonful of vine : gar and a little butter. Drain and divide them. i Then put a little fried parsley in the middle of a hot dish, place the brains round them, and pour browned butter over the whole. Time to boil the brains, a quarter of an houi\ Sufficient for two persons. Calf s Brains and Tongue. liemovc the skin and the fibres, and wash the brains in several waters. Boil them in salt and water, and drain and chop them. Put them in a saucepan with haK a cupful of melted butter, a I tea-spoonful of parsley which has been boiled : and chopped, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and ! a little salt and cayenne pei per. Skin and j trim the boiled tongue, place it in the middle of the dish, and pour the sauce round it. Time to I boil the brains, a quarter of an hour. The brains I of one head will serve for a tongue. I Calf s Brains with Wine, Wash and j skin the brains, and blanch them in Ijoiling salt I and water mi.xed with vinegar. Put two or ; three rashers of bacon into a stewpan, with two ; sliced carrots, two sliced onions, two cloves, one i bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a I bimch of thj-me, a little pepper and salt, and a j glass of white wine. Add the brains, and I let all simmer gently. When done, strain the j gravy, and pour it round the brains. Time, I half an hour. Sufficient for two or three I persons. [ Calf s Chitterlings, Fraise, or Crow. [ These are the different names given to the fat CAL ( 93 ) CAL round the stomach of the calf, and in some parts they foiTii a favourite dish. ITiey may be served in two or three ways. First wash and cleanse them thoroughly. Lay them in salt and water for a night, place them in boilingwater for a quarter of an hour, then dip into cold water, and di-ain them. Cut them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a little stock, two or thi-ee slices of bacon, an onion, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper. Let them simmer gently, and when done place them in a hot dish, reduce the gravy, thicken it with a little flom-, add vinegar and sliced cucumber, and serve as a sauce. Or, prepare as above. After being boiled a quarter of an hour, dip the pieces into a little batter, and fry them in boiling drijiping until they are a light brown, then serve with fried parslej'. Or, prepare as above. After being boiled for a quarter of an hour rub them over with butter, and bake in a good oven. Calf's Ears (a la Bechamel). Cut off four calves' ears rather deeply, trim them evenly, scald the hair off, and cleanse them thoroughly. }}oil them in milk and water till tender ; then drain them, and till the inside of each with a little veal forcemeat ; tie them with thread, and stew them in a pint of stock, seasoned with 2Jopper and salt, and an onion with three cloves stuck in it. "Wlien done, drain them. Add a dozen stewed mushrooms, and the yolk of an egg beaten in a cupful of cream, to the liquor in which they were boiled, first taking out the onion and cloves. Put the ears into a dish, pour the sauce round them, and garnish with forcemeat balls and sliced lemon. Time to stew, about half an hour. Sufficient for three ?or four persons. Calf's Ears (a la Xeapolitaine). Prepare the ears as above. Place them in a saucepan with rashers of bacon under and over, sufticient stock to cover the whole, and simmer gently until sufficiently cooked. When done, h-ain and fill them with a forcemeat made of fom- ounces of crumbs, a cupful of milk, four ?oimces of Parmesan cheese, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and the yolks of two fggs. Tie them well with thread, then dip them in butter, cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry till they are a light brown. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf's Feet. Calf's feet are generally )repared for boiling by the butcher ; but if this is not done, they should be put into water just upon the point of boiling, and kept in it for two or three minutes, when the hair must be scraped off, the hoofs knocked off on the edge of the sink, the claws split, and the fat that is between them taken away. They must then be washed with scrupulous care and nicety. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Calf's Feet and Sauce. Thoroughly cleanse two calf's feet ; place them in a saucel aiL, and pour over them three pints of cold water. Let them simmer gently for four hoiu-s, then split them in halves, and trim nicely, cut them into neat pieces, and drain the water from them. Take a cupful of finely-grated bread crumbs, mix with them a small onion choppcc small, a Little grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful oi salt, and a thii-d of a salt-spoonful of pepper. Dijj the pieces into egg, then into the crumbs, and fry them in boiling oil or butter until nicely browned. Put them in the middle of a hot disli, with a sauce round them made as follows : Chop finely three large onions, three large muslirooms, and three tomatoes. Put these into a saucepan with a grain of powdered ginger, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, a salt-spoonful of salt, the same of mustard, a httle cayenne, a small piece of sugar, and a glassful of white wine. Simmer gently, stirring all the time, tiU the onions are tender. Time to stew the feet, four hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or fom- persons. Calfs Foot (a la Poulette). Calf's feet which have been boiled for stock may (if not too much cooked) be made into an agreeable dish by serving them in a little Poulette sauce. Take out the bones, and cut the meat into neatly-shaped pieces. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then add to it gradually a table-spoonful of flom-. Mix the paste thoroughly with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes, until it is quite smooth ; then dilute it bj' degrees with a pint ef nicelyflavoured stock, and keep on stii'iing it for ten or fifteen minutes. Draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute or two, thicken the soup with the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and season with a little pepper and salt. Put the pieces of calf's feet into the sauce, let them become hot, without boiling, and serve. Time to make the sauce, twenty-five minutes. Sufficient for two feet. Calf's Foot, Baked or Stewed. Wash a calf 's foot verj- carefully, and rub it over withpepi er, salt, and a little powdei-ed cinnamon. Place it in a saucepan or dish, and cover it with a pint and a half of water. The knucklebone of a ham, the end of a di-ied tongue, or even a few pieces of beef may be added, with a little celery, an onion stuclc with four or five cloves, and a carrot. Let these simmer either in the oven or on the fire for three or four hours. In either case they must be closely covered. "VVTien quite tender, take out the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces. Strain the gravj% skimming off the fat, add to it a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of ground rice. Let it boil up, then put in the pieces of meat, a squeeze of lemon- juice, a glass of white wine, and serve hot. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per foot. One foot will be found .sufficient for one or two persons. Calfs Foot Boiled with Parsley and Butter. Thoroughly clean two calfs feet, divide them at the joint, and split the hoofs. Put three rashers of bacon into a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of an egg, a large onion stuck with five or six cloves, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt and pepper. C'aie must be taken not to put too much salt, as the bacon will probably supply what is necessary. Tjiiy the feet on the bacon, and cover the whole with one pint of stock. Let them simmer CAL (94) CAL very gently for two lieui-s or more ; then take out the feet, put them on a hot dish, and pour some parsley and butter over them {see Parsley and Butter). Calf's Foot Broth. Wash carefully one calf 's foot, and put it into a saucepan vith three pints of water, the rind of a lemon, a lump of sugar, and a salt-spoonful of salt. If a knucklehone of a ham can be put with it, it will be an improvement. Let these simmer gently together until the liquid is reduced one half, skimming it very carefully from time to time. Then pom- it out, and let it stand aside to got cold, so that the fat may be entirely removed. When this has been done, put it back into the saucepan, let it boil, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, and stir the liquid again over the fire for a few minutes until it thickens ; but on no account allow it to boil. This is a very nourishing broth. If it is preferred, the calf's foot may be boiled in milk and water. Time, three hours. Probable cost, one calf's foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of broth. Calf's Foot Broth (another way). Stew down a calf's foot in three pints of water till the Hquid is reduced one half, carefully removing all scum. Put it aside in a basin until quite cold, and take off the fat from the surface ; then warm up about half a pint of this jelly with a piece of butter the size of a pigeon's egg, and flavour it with sugar, nutmeg, and lemon-peel to taste ; beat well the yolk of an egg, and add it to the broth, stii-ring it all th? time till it thickens, but do not let it boil or the broth vill bo curdled and spoiled. Probable cost, calf's foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient to make a pint and a half of broth. Calf s Foot, Curried. Prepare two feet as in the last recipe, remove the bones, and cut the meat into neatly-shaped pieces. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan. Let it melt ; slice into it two large onions ; let them brown lightly on both sides ; then remove them for a littlo while, and stir an ounce of cui-ry powder into the butter, letting it remain until it is thoroughly cooked. Add, gradually, sufficient of the liquid in which the feet were boiled to moisten the whole without making it too thin, put in the meat, the onions, and pepper and salt to taste. Simmer all gently together for a few minutes ; then pile the ciu-ry in the centre of a hot dish with a border of rice round it. Time to boil the feet, four houi's ; to simmer, quarter ?)f an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cairs Foot, Fried. A good dish may be made of two calf's feet which have been boiled for stock, and taken out while they are still firm. Remove the bones, and when the flesh is cold, cut it into small, nicely-shaped pieces, which must be placed for an horn- in a pickle made with two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one table-spoonful of oil, one bay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper. Turn them two or tlii'ee times. Take them out, drain them, dredge a little flom- over them, and fry them in boiling butter or oil till they are lightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, and serve them with fried parsley. Probable cost, 4d.,, without the calf's feet. Sufficient for four or five i ersons. Calf's Foot Fritters. Prepare the calf's feet as in the last recipe, but, before they are fried, lay each piece in a light batter made thus : Pom- a cupful of boUing water over a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, and when it is melted, add to it half a pint of cold water. Stir this gradually into four tablespoonfuls of fine flour, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs and a little salt and pci per. A few minutes before it is wanted, add the well- whisked whites of the eggs. Melt a little butter in a stewpan and, when it is boiling, fry the pieces of meat in it. Drain them from the fat, pile them on a hot dish,' and servo with pickled gherkins. Time to stand in the pickle, one hour; to fry, ten minutes. This quantity vdll suffice for fom- persons. Probable cost, 8d., without the calf's feet. Calf S Foot Jelly. In order to obtain calf's foot jelly quite clear, care should be taken, first, to mix the ingredients when they are cold ; and secondl}', not to stu- the jelly after it has begun to heat and the scum to rise. Take a pint and a half of calf's foot stock {see Calf's Foot Stock), and be very laarticular that it is free from every particle of fat and sediment. Put it into a saucepan with the strained juice and thinly-peeled rind of two large lemons, three table-spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, half a pint of sherry, the whites and shells of fom- eggs (the whites must be beaten, but not to a froth), and haK an ounce of clarified isinglass. Let these stand for a few minutes ; then put them on a slow fire, and stu- them a littlo until the sugar is dissolved, but as soon as the jelly begins to heat do not touch it again. Let it boil for twenty minutes ; the scum may be gently removed as it rises. Draw the jelly to the side of the fire, and let it stand to settle twenty minutes longer. Wring out the jelly-bag in hot water, and pom- the jelly through it. If it is not perfectly clear (which, however, it can scarcely fail to be, if attention has been paid to the dii-ections given), strain it two or three times until it is. Do not keep it in a metal mould it will be likely to discolom- it. It should be kept in a cool place, and in summer will most likely require a little ice round it. If the stock bo very strong, the isinglass may be dispensed with, but it is always safer to put a little with the jelly. When all the liquid has run through the bag, an agreeable and refreshing beverage may be obtained by pom-ing a little boiling water through it. Sufficient for rather more than a quart. Probable cost, without the sherry. Is. per pint. Calf s Foot Jelly, Apple. Put a pint of apple juice into a saucejjan with a pint of clear calf's foot stock {see Calf's T'oot Stock), the rind and juice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of sugar, a small glass of brandy, and the whites and pounded shells of three eggs, ilix these well together, and let them boil gently for fifteen minutes. Take the jellj' from the fire, let it stand to settle, and strain it through a jelly -bag imtil quite clear ; then pour it into a mould. If the stock is not very stiff, add alittlo CAL ( 9o ) CAL isinglass. Sufficient for two and a liaK pints of jolly. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Calf's Foot Jelly, Lemon. Mix a quart of strong calf's foot stock, clear and free from fat and sediment, with a cupful of strained lemon-juice and three-quarters of a poimd of loaf sugar, which has been rubbed on the rind of two lemons. Put these into a saucepan with the well-beaten whites and crushed shells of iive eggs. Proceed as for calf's foot jolly. Time to boi\ by the side of the fire, twenty minutes. J obable cost. Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient, one .mt and a half of jelly for five or six people. CalPs Foot Jelly, Maraschino. Take one quart of clear calf's foot stock. Proceedacc&rdlng to the dii-ections given for making caK's foot jelly, remembering only to omit the sherry, and to rub the rind of two lemons on the sugar before it is added to the stock. When it has run through the jelly-bag and is quite clear, add half a pint of maraschino to it, and pour a little of the jelly into a mould ; let it set, then fill the mould with alternate layers of jelly, and either fresh strawberries or preserved peaches. Put it in a cool place, and when it has set, turn it out of the mould. Time to set, two hom-s with ice, ten or twelve without. Probable cost, Is. per pint, without the maraschino. A pint and half mould will be sufficient for five or six persons. Calf's Foot Jelly of Four Fruits. Dissolve one pint of calf's foot apple jelly (see CaK's Foot Apple Jelly), and pour about a quarter of it into an earthenware mould ; let it nearly set, then arrange, as tastefully as possible, fine fresh bunches of white and red currants, strawbeiTics, cherries, raspberries, or any fruit that can be had. If fresh fruits are not in season, any fruits which have been preserved whole may be used instead, such as peaches, plums, or apricots. Add the jelly and the fruit gradually before more is put in. Set it in a cool place, and when stiff, it may be tinned out. Probable cost, lOd. per pint mould. Time to set, twelve hours. Calfs Foot Jelly of Four Fruits (another way). Put two pounds of fresh fruit (made up half of red currants and the other lialf of mixed chemes, strawberries and raspberries) into an earthenware jar, cover it closely, then place it in a saucepan, filled three parts with cold water ; let it simmer very gently over a moderate fire for half an hour ; then poui- the contents into a jelly-bag, and let the juice droj) from it, but do not squeeze it. Proceed as for calf's foot apple jelly, substituting the juice of the four fruits for apple juice, and omitting the brandy. Time to set, twelve hours. Probable cost. Is. per pint. Sufficient, a pint and a half of jelly for five or six persons. Calf's Foot Jelly, Orange. Put a C[uai't of strong calf's feet stock into a saucepan with a pint of the strained juice of oranges, the juice of two lemons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, on which the rinds of the lemons have been rubbed, half an ounce of melted isinglass, and the whites and crushed shells of five eggs. Proceed as for calf's foot jelly, Three or four- grains of saffron will improve the appearance of the dish. If it is preferred, the mould may be filled with alternate layers of jelly and quartered oranges, as directed in a previous recipe. Time to set, two hom-s with ice, ten or twelve without it. Probable cost. Is. per pint. Sufficient, a pint and half mould for five or six persons. Calf's Foot Mould. A relishing breakfast dish may be made of the meat of calf's feet after they have been boiled for jelly, broth, stock, &c. Take out all the bones, and cut the meat of one foot into small ijieces, mixing with it the juice and rind of a lemon, a small onion finely minced, and fiavouji-ing it with salt, cayenne, and powdered cinnamon. Put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, stir it over the fire for about ten minutes, and pour it into a mould. Probable cost of a calf's foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for a small breakfast dish. Calfs Foot, Roasted. Boil two caK's feet for one hour- and a half, then take them out of the saucepan, drain the water from them, tie them together, and fasten them on a spit. Baste freely with a little broth, which has not been cleared from fat, and when they have been before the fire about half an horn-, dredge them with flour, baste with butter, and allow them to remain until they are nicely browned. When sufficiently cooked, place them on a hot dish, and pour round them a little brown sauce flavoured with port. Time, two hours and a haK. Probable cost, calf's feet, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf's Foot Soup. Cut two caK's feet into about twelve pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with half a head of celery, a bunch of l arsley, a small sprig of thyme, an onion with five or six cloves stuck into it, and two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. Simmer all gently together, skinuning the liquid carefully, for two hours. Take out the feet, strain the liquor, return it to the saucepan, and thicken it with two dessert-spoonfuls of finely-sifted rice flour. A few minutes before the soup is wanted, add pepper and salt, and stir gradually into it a cupful of milk or cream, mixed with the yolks of two eggs and a glass of white wine. Stir it over the fire for two or three minutes, but on no accoimt allow it to boil. Serve, with the pieces of calf's feet, in the tureen. Probable cost, 7d. per pint, K made with milk, and exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for three pints of soup. Calfs Foot, Stewed. Wash and clean two caK's feet verj- carefully. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a pound and a half of beefsteak, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, a head of celery, and an onion stuck with cloves. Cover them with stock, or water if the stock is not at hand, and let them simmer gently for thi-ec hours. Take them off the fire, strain the gravy, and skim off the fat ; then boil the gravy up again with a cupful of new milk and a little salt and pepper. Put in the pieces of meat to heat, but do not allow them to boil. Serv-e with the meat CAL (06) CAL in the middle of the dish, and the gra y poured round. Two feet will ho sufficient for throe or four persons. Calf's Foot Stewed with Herbs. Wash a calf's foot. When it is thoroughly clean, boil it in a quart of water until the Hesh can be easily taken from the bone. Kemove the bones, and cut the Hesh into small, evenlyshaped pieces. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, let it melt, then put into it the pieces of meat, ha%ang previously salted, peppered, and rolled them in Hour. Lot them remain in the boiling butter until they are nicely browned ; j ut with them two small onions, a dozen mushrooms chopped finely, and a bunch of savoury herbs ; mix the stock in by degrees, and let them simmer gently for half an hour or so ; then add the juice of a lemon, and three woU-beaten eggs. Do not allow the liquid to boil again after the eggs have been added. If the sauce is not sufficiently thick, a little more flour may be mixed in before the eggs and vinegar. If any of the liquor in which the meat was boiled is not required for the sauce, it will bo found very useful for gravies, &c. Cairs Foot Stock, Cheap Substitutes for. Ox lieels may be used instead of calf's feet for stock. They should be bought before they are boiled at all. They are frequently offered for sale when they are partially dressed, and must be very carefully cleansed. They may bo bought for 4d. or od. each, and as two calf's feet will produce a quart of stock, and two cow's heels three pints, it is a decided saving to use the latter. Ton shank bones of mutton, which may be bought for a mere trifle, will yield as much jelly as a calf's foot. Calf's Foot Stock for Jelly. Take four calf's feet properly dressed and cleansed. Put a gallon of water into a saucepan with the feet, and let them boil very gently but continuously until the liquid is reduced to half. Strain it, and let it stand until stiff. Then remove every particle of fat from it, pouring a cupful of boiling water over it, and placing a piece of blotting paper on the top after you have taken it off to insm-e its being quite free from grease. Eemember to leave the sediment behind when you use the stock. Time to boil the feet, six or seven hours. Calf's Head. It is better to order a calf's head a day or two before wanted, especially if only half a one is required, and a half is sufficient for a dinner for a small family. The heads are sold by butchers either skinned or unskinned, and if they are sent home unskinned great care must be taken to scrape the haii- off as closely as possible. To do this the head must be put into water which is just upon the point of boiling, and remain there for a few minutes after it does so, then taken out and the hair scraped off with a blunt knife, the head divided, and the brains and tongue taken out. The head must be most carefully washed. The first thing to do, on receiving a calf's head, is to remove the brains, tlrrow them into cold water for an hour, drain them, and boil them in salt and water for a quarter of an hour, and put them on one side. Put the head into cold water and wash it well, clearing the cavities inside with the fingers, lay it in fresh cold water, and leave it there to draw out the blood, &c. One of the choice bits of a calf's head lies deep in the socket of the eye. It is always best to cook a calf's head as soon as possible, and while it should be thoroughly cooked, it should not be overdone. It ought to be served in slices ; and to secure this it should be bound with a little broad tape. When it is to be ser\?d, lay it, cheek upwards, on the dish as it "Jomes from the water, or brush it over with beaten egg, dust bread-crumbs over it, and bro l it. The Ijrains and tongue should be sent to table, with it on a separate dish ; and a dish of ham or bacon is considered by many persons an improvement. Calf's head is usually garnished with sliced lemon. Probable cost, 5s. to 9s. Calf's Head (a la Poulette). Take a dozen good-sized mushrooms, cut oft" the end of the stalks, and rub the tops with a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, let it melt, and put in the mushi'ooms. Shake them over a hot fire for a few minutes, turn them into a basin, and keep them covered until they are wanted for use. Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into nicely-shaped slices, and lay them on one side. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix with it very smoothly a dessert-spoonful of flour. iStir it until it is lightly browned ; add to it very gradually, stirring all the time, a large breakfast-cupful of boiling stock, and a little pepper and cayenne. Let this boil up, add the mushrooms, and boil the sauce gently for a quarter of an hour. Put in the meat, and let it boil for one minute ; draw the sauce pan to the side of the fire, let it cool for two minutes, when the beaten yolks of two eggs may be mixed with it. Stir the preparation over the fire till it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil, and at the last squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Serve on a hot dish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, without the cold meat, Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cairs Head (a la Maitre d'Hotel). Take the remains of a cold calf's head, and cut it into neat slices, leaving out the bones, &c. Make some Maitre d'Hotel sauce, consisting of half a pint of good melted butter, mixed with two dessert-spoonfuls of parsley boiled and chopped, the juice of a small lemon, and a little salt and pepper. Let this boil, then put in the pieces of calf's head, let them become quite heated, without boiling, and serve on a hot dish, garnished with sippets of toast. Cairs Head (a la Maitre d'Hotel), another way. Take the remains of a cold calf's head, and cut it into neat slices, leaving out the bones, &c. IMake a sauce consisting of half a pint of good melted butter, mixed with half a pint of stock, a little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or, if they can be got, a dozen small stewed mushrooms. Let these boil together, then draw the sauce from the fire for a couple of minutes, and add, very gradually, the yolks of CAL (97) CAL two eggs mixed with a cupful of cream or milk, ytir the mixture over the tire for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boil, put in the pieces of cold calf's head, and serve on a hot dish. Time, to make the sauce, twenty minutes. Probable cost of sauce, if made with milk, 9d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of sauce. Calf S Head (a la Sainte Menehould). Take the remains of a calf's head boiled in the usual way. Cut them into slices, and pour over these a sauce prepared as follows : Dissolve an ounce of butter over the fire, and mix smoothly ?\vith it half a desseit-spoonful of flour ; add a little salt and pepper, a table-spoonful of strained lemon -juice, and as much nicely-flavom-ed stock as \vill make the sauce as thick as cream. Simmer this sauce over the tire for a few minutes. Draw the saucej an to the side, let its contents cool for half a minute, and stir into these the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Cover the calf's head and the sauce with a thick layer of bread-crumbs. Pour over these a little claiified butter, and more bread-crumbs. Place the dish in a Dutch oven, brown the surface before the fire, and serve with sauce piquante. Time to make the sauce half an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Calfs Head (a la Tortue). This dish, which is elaborate and apparently difficult, will not be found to be beyond the power of any one who can please the eye as well as the palate, and, after having flavom-od a dish judiciously, can arrange it elegantly. Procure a large calf's head, properly prepared. Scald it mth the skin on. Remove the brains, which must be boiled, chopped, and made into cakes, with bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and egg. They can then be put on one side and fried in a little hot butter just before they are wanted. Boil the head in the usual way [see Calf's Head, Boiled) till it is sufficiently tender to allow the bones to be taken away without altering the shape of the head. Do not take away the tongue, as it will help to preserve the fonn. Take a large stewpan, melt three ounces of butter in it, and when it is broMoi, mix smoothly with it two table-spoonfuls of rice floui'. Add just enough of the liquor in which the head was boiled to cover the meat, but before putting the head in, season the sauce with salt, cayenne, nutmeg, foiir large tomatoes stewed, and two glasses of sherry. Let it boil up, then put in the calf's head, and when this is hot it is ready to serve. Jfow comes the arrangement of the dish, and for this no clear directions can be given ; it must be left to the taste of the cook, and depend greatly on the materials at command. The brain cakes, of course, must be used, and they may be heated in the sauce, as also may button mushrooms, forcemeat balls, the yolks of eggs boiled hard, sliced truffles, cock's-combs, real or artificial. On and aboiit the head may be placed fried eggs, crayfish, prawns, gherkins, cut into baUs and soaked in cold water a little before they are wanted. The ears may be scored and curled, and little stars or diamonds of puff paste fried in butter may be dotted about the dish. The truffles, prawns, &c., may be fastened on with silver skewers. It is generally found better to boil and bone this dish the day before it is wanted. Time to stew in the gravy, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for ton or twelve i ersons. Calf's Head (a la Tortue), another way. The remains of a cold calf's head may be cut into small squares, warmed in a little good gravy, and ornamented in the same way as the last dish. Make the sauce rather thick, put the meat in the middle of the dish, and garnish as prettily as possible with forcemeat balls, the yolks of hard boiled eggs, and the whites cut into rings, gherkins, olives, and stewed mushrooms. Time to simmer the meat in the gravy, a quarter of an hour. Calfs Head, Baked. Take half a calf's head. Prepare it as if for boiling, removing the brains and tongue. Let it simmer gently for half an hour, then take it out of the water, drain it, and fold it in a cloth to dry. Prepare abreakfast-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, mix -wath them two salt-spoonfuls of salt, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, two dessertspoonfuls of finely-shred sage, and the same of parsley. Brush the head over with beaten e , and strew the bread-crumbs, &c., over it ; let it get dry, then repeat, the second time pouring hot butter over instead of brushing with Q . Fill the hollows of the eyes with crumbs. Bake the head in a good oven, basting it frequently with a cupful of sauce mixed -with a dessertspoonful of vinegar. The tongue and brains must be boiled separately, and cut into pieces, and a little time before the head is sufficiently baked, must be strewed with the crumbs and put into the oven to brown. Serve in a hot dish, with a little gravy round the meat, and oyster sauce in a tureen. Time to bake, two hours. Sufficient, half a head for four persons. Calf's Head, Baked (another way). Boil half a calf's head in the usual way until tender ; then drain it, pour a little hot butter over it, and strew over it rather thickly some grated Parmesan cheese, and put it in a good oven until it is nicely browned, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four persons. Calf's Head, Boiled (with or ?v\-ithout the Skin). Thoroughly cleanse a calf's head, remove the brains, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes, to blanch it. Take it out, and lay it in a deep saucepan with sufficient water to cover it ; let it boil up, remove the scum veiy carefully as it rises, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until ready. Wash the brains in two or three waters, remove the skin and the fibres which hang about them, and let them soak for an hour in cold salt and water ; pour that away, and put them into a saucepan with some fresh water to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added. Take the scum off as it rises, and boil them for a quai-ter of an hour. Chop them rather coarsely, and put them into a saucepan -svith a cupful of good melted butter, a table-spoonful of sage leaves chopped small, the same of scalded and finely-miaced parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Take out the CAL (98) CAL tongue, skin it, trim it about the roots, and lay it in the middle of a hot dish with the brain sauce round it ; keep it hot. The appearance of the calf's head will be improved if after it is taken up it is brushed over with egg, covered with finely-grated bread-crumbs, and browned. Slices of cut lemon are usually placed round the dish. A little boiled bacon or pickled pork is sent to table with it, as well as either parsley and butter, tomato or mushroom sauce, in a tureen. Time to boil, vdth the skin on, two and a half or three hours, according to the size ; -without, one and a half or two hours. Sufiicient for seven or eight persons. The liquor in which it is boiled should be carefully preserved ; for though a calf's head is insipid if eaten cold, it is excellent warmed, and for this the liquor would be needed. Calf's Head Brawn, Take half a large calf's head with the skin on. "Wash it well, take out the brains and the soft bone, and lay it in a pickle made of one pound of salt, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, half a pound of moist sugar, and one ounce of saltpetre, boiled in three quarts of water for twenty minutes, skimmed, and put aside until cold. Let it stand in this for eight days, turning it every day. Take it out, wash it well, and boil it gently until tender. Eemove the bones, and put the meat while hot into a brawn-tin, flavouring it with salt, pepper, pounded mace, and a little cayenne. Put a heavy weight on it, and let it stand until firm. Turn it out and garnish with parsley. Time, three or four hours. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Calf's Head Cheese. Take the remains of a cold calf's head, remove the bones, and chop all the meat lean, fat, skin, and tongue into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with a little salt and pepper, the rind and juice of a lemon, a little powdered cinnamon, and all the brain-sauce that is left. Cover the whole barely with some of the liquor in which the head was boiled, and simmer it gently, stirring it every now and then, for twenty minutes. Remove the rind, and put the rest into a mould which has been soaked in cold water ; put a plate and weight over it, and when it is cold, turn out. It will make a nice breakfast or supper dish, or can be used for sandwiches. Probable cost, 2d., without the cold meat, &c. Sufficient, a small mould for a breakfast dish. Calf s Head, Collared (to serve cold). Take a caK's head, properly prepared, re- i move the brains, and put it into boiling water i for a quarter of an hour to blanch it ; wash it j thoroughly, put it into cold water, and boil it j until the bones can be removed. Bone and lay it flat on the table, and sprinkle over it, in alternate layers, six table- spoonfuls of chopped parsley, some ground pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, pink ham cut into slices, and the yolks of six eggs boiled hard, sliced, and dotted here and there. Roll the head as tightly as possible, tie it in a cloth, and boil it gently for four hours. Take it out, drain, and put it under a weight, and do not remove the cloth and bandages imtil it is cold. I Calfs Head, Collared (to serve hot). ' Take a calf's head, properly prepared, blanch j and boil it until it is sufficiently tender to j remove the bones. When they are taken out, i lay the head on the table, and spread on it a { forcemeat made of the brain, the tongue, and ! some of the meat cut from where it is thickest, : mixed with a table-si oonf ul of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, the pounded yolks of three eggs boiled hard, two spoonfuls of brandy, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the head as tightly I as possible, and tie it in a cloth, binding it with tape. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add a carrot, a j arsnip, j two or three onions, some slices of lemon, a i little thyme, four bay -leaves, and salt and pepper. Let it boil gently for three hours, then take it out of the cloth, and pour round ! it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in which I it was boiled, mixed with a table-spoonful of I chopjDed mushrooms, a table-spoonful of chopped j ghei'kins, and a little lemon-juice. Sufficient j for seven or eight persons. j Calf's Head Collops. Cut a cold calf's head into small neat slices about the third of an inch in thickness. Strew over these a large dessert-spoonful of minced parsley and a little salt and cayenne. Make some good thick batter, dip each piece of meat into it, and fry it in boiling butter or oil until nicely browned. Serve the collops very hot, piled high in a dish, and accompanied with lemonjuice and cayenne. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., wthout the cold meat. Sufficient, allow two or three collops for each person. j Calf's Head, Curried. Cut up the remains of a calf's head into pieces about an inch square, and lay them on one side. Put a piece of butter about the size of a large egg into a saucepan ; let it melt, then slice into it two large onions, and fry them until lightly browned on both sides ; take them out, and stir a dessert-spoonful of curry powder gradually and smoothly into the butter, and afterwards a small cupful of good stock, len the sauce is quite smooth, add the cold calf's head and onions ; let the mixture boil ten minutes, and just at the last squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put it into the centre of a dish, with a border of rice round it, boiled as for other curries. If necessary, a little more stock may be added, but curries should not be watery. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Calf's Head, Dappled. Boil a calf's head until the bones come out easily ; take them out, and lay the flesh on a dish, with another dish over it, and a weight on that, so that the head may be oval and flat. When cold, divide it into halves. Brush it over with wellbeaten eggs, and over one half strew finelygrated bread-crumbs mixed with salt and cayenne, and over the other, finely-grated bread-crumbs with an equal quantity of finelychopped parsley and sage. Bake it in a good oven until it is lightlj browned, basting it frequently Avith a little stock. Serve it on a hot CAL (09) CAL ilisli, and send it to tabic with two tureens of sauce one of parsley and butter; and the other made of half a pint of good gravy mixed with the brains boiled and chopped small, a flavouring of salt and cayenne and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Time to bake, thi-cequarters of an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Calfs Head, Fricasseed. Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into sKces about a quarter of an inch thiclc, and lay them aside until wanted. Put a pint and a half of the liquid in which the head was boiled into a saucepan with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, and an onion stuck with four cloves. Let these simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour-; then strain the liquid, and pour it into a jar until wanted. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan ; let it melt, then mix with it very smoothly a tablespoonful of floui", and afterwards, very gradually, the strained liquid. Put the meat in, let it boil, draw it from the iire for a minute or two, and mix with it the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir it over the iire till it thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Before serving, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold calf's head, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf's Head, Fried. Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into pieces about an inch and a half wide. Lay them for thi-ee hom-s in a pickle made of two table-spoonfuls of lemonjuice, the same of white wine, salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon. Take them out, drain them, and dip each piece into a batter. Fry them in boiling oil till they are a bright bro vn, and pile them in a pyramid on a hot dish. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d., without the \\ane. Calf S Head, Hashed. Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into nice slices about a quarter of an inch thick and thi-ee or four inches long, and set them aside until wanted. Take the remains of the brains and beat them up with a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of finely-shred lemon-rind, and a little salt and pepper. Make this into cakes, and fry them in boiling butter until nicely browned. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan; melt it, then mix with it very smoothly a table-spoonful of flour, a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, a little pepper and salt, and cayenne, and the liquor from a score of oysters, or, what will be very good, though not as good, a table-spoonful of the liquor fi'om a tin of oysters ; let this boil up, add the pieces of head, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a score of oysters, fresh or tinned. Let all simmer until quite hot, but the preparation must not boil again. Serve the meat in the middle. Poui- the gravy over, and arrange, alternately, fried bacon and the brain cakes round it. Time altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the meat, with fresh oysters, 4s. ; with tinned oysters. Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cairs Head Hashed (another Avay)._ Cut the remains of a cold cult's head into neat slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness and thi-ee or four inches square. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan ; let it melt, then fry two large onions in it cut into dice, and when they are lightly browned take them out, and mix very smoothly with the butter, one tablespoonful of flom-, and a pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add the onion and two table-spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, chopped I small, then the pieces of cold ailf's head. Let ' all simmer gently for two or three minutes; serve as hot as possible. A glass of sherry is an improvement. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for foiu- or" five persons. Cairs Head, Hashed (another way). Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into neat slices, dijj them in egg and grated bread-crumbs, and put them aside until they are wanted. Place the bones, gristle, and trimmings into a saucepan with two pints of the liquor in which the head was boiled, and put with them an onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and the thinly-peeled rind of half a lemon, with a little salt and cayenne. Let these simmer gently until reduced to half ; then strain the gravy, and mix it with any of the sauce or brains that may be left, and if these are not sufficient to thicken it, add a little rice flour. The addition of a little white wine is an improvement. Let these simmer gently together for ten minutes. Fry the pieces of meat which are already prepared, place them in the middle of the dish, and pour the gra-\y round them. The egg and bread-crumbs may be omitted, and the pieces of meat put in the sauce to warm, and little pieces of bacon wanned with it. Time, one hour to simmer the bones and gravy ; ten minutes to boil all together. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. . Calfs Head, Mock Turtle Soup of. Take half a calf's head with the skin on, remove the brains, wash it in two or three waters, and boil it gently for an hour and a half. Take off the skin, cut it and the flesh into pieces about an inch and a half square, and throw them into cold water. Drain, and j)ut them into a saucepan, cover with stock, and let them simmer gently for another hour and a half. Put three quarts of nicely-flavom-ed stock into a separate stewpan, and with it a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, fom- bay-leaves, three dessertspoonfuls of chopped parsley, half an ounce of whole pepper, half an ounce of salt, thi-ee onions with fom- cloves stuck in them, half a head of celeiy, and two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Let these simmer slowly for two hom'S. Strain the liquor, thicken it with two table-spoonfuls of flour, mixed with a little cold water, and added gradually, then pour it into the same saucepan as the meat, add half a pint of sherrj', eight or nine forcemeat balls (one for each person), the hard-boiled yolks of five eggs, and the juice of a lemon. Let all simmer for a few minutes, and serve. The forcemeat balls should be made by mixing CAL ( 100) CAL well together the brains, a hreakfast-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, finely-chopped parsley, three ounces of butter, and two eggs. Mal e them up about the size of an egg, fry them in boiling oil or dripping, and di-ain them from the fat before they are added to the soup. Time, four hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per quart, without the wine. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Cairs Head Mould. Cut the remains of a cold caK's head into neat slices. Make some clear savoury jeUy with gelatine (aw Aspic Jelly, Economical). Put a little of the jelly at the bottom of a plain mould which has been soaked in cold water. Let it set a little, then arrange the pieces of meat in the mould, making them look as nice as possible with a little parsley, pieces of ham or tongue, rings of hardboiled egg. Leave space between the pieces of meat for the jelly to run through. Nearly fill the mould with the meat, pour the jelly over it, and put it in a cool place till stiff enough to turn out. Time, twelve hours to set. Suflicient for a breakfast dish. Probable cost. Is. for a moderate-sized mould, exclusive of the meat. Calf S Head Pie. An excellent pie may be made of Cixlf's head. Take one properly prepared, and boil it until the bones can be taken out. Line the edge of a large pie-dish %vith .a good, light crust, put in the pieces of meat, the tongue at the top, season it with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, pour over it a cupful of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cover it with a thick crust, and bake in a good oven until nicely browned. ?\Vhile it is baking put the bones of the head into a saucepan, with a quart of the liquor, a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, an onion chojiped small, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Let it simmer gently until it is reduced to half, then strain it, and add two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and a glass of port. Mix the brains with eight or nine sage-leaves, chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, and an egg. Make them up into little cakes, and fiy them in boiling butter until they are nicely browned. Put them in the oven to keep wann, with a sheet of blotting paper under them to drain off the fat. Have ready also four or five hai-dboiled eggs. AVhen the pie is sufficiently cooked, take off the crust, and lay the brain cakes and the eggs, cut into rings, on the top ; pour the boiling gravy over all, and fasten the crust on again with the white of an egg before sending the dish to table. Time to bake, an hour and a half or more. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, from 6s. to lis. Calf's Head Ragout. Boil a calf's head, and while the tiesh is still firm, take it up, cut it into niec slices, about half an inch thick, and as large as possible. Dust these on both sides with flour, salt, and gTatcd nutmeg. Have a saucepan ready, melt two ounces of butter in it, and fry the pieces of meat, and as each piece is lightly browned, put it into a stcwpan. Wlien all the pieces are fried, mi.x a table-spoonful of flour very smootlily with the butter left in tlie pan, and add gradually to this a breakfast-cupful of the liquid in which the head was first boiled, and a wine-glassful of sherry or Madeira. Season the liqour with the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne. When this sauce is quite smooth, pour it over the meat, and let all simmer together for about ten minutes. Arrange the meat nicely on a hot dish, and pour the sauce round it. Garnish either with brain cakes or toasted sippets. Time, to boil calf's head, one hour and a half. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Calfs Head Ragout (another way). Wash half a calf's head thoroughly, and boil it for about three hours. Take it up, drain it, and score the outside skin in diamonds. Brush it over with well -beaten egg, and strew over that a cupful of finely -grated bread-criunbs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-sjjoonful of salt, and half a salt- spoonful of cayenne. Put it in ;t hot oven, or place it before the fii-o to brown, and, before sending it to table, squeeze over it the juice of a large lemon, and cover completely with melted butter. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf's Head, Roasted. Wash a calf's head, remove the brains and the tongue, and simmer it gently for three-quai'ters of an houi-. Take it out of the saucepan, and fill it with good veal forcemeat. Sew it up, or fasten it securely with skewers, bind it with tape, and put it down to roast. Baste it constantly, serve good gravy with it, and, before sending it to table, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Boil the tongue and brains, and serve them on a separate dish, with a few rashers of bacon round them. Time to roast, two hom-s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Cairs Head Soup. Take half a calf's head, properly prepared, and as fresh as it can be got. Wash well, and soak it in cold water for a couple of hom-s. Take it out, drain it, and put it in a saucepan with three quarts of cold water, and let it simmer gently for three hours, when it may be taken out, and set on one side until wanted. Put two leeks, two carrots, two turnips, all peeled and sliced, two onions with foui- cloves stuck in them, a bunch of parsley, a sjjrig of thyme, half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt into the liquor. Let these stew gently for another hour, and keep skimming all the time. Strain the soup, and remove the fat, which must be put into a frpngpan, melted, and two large onions sliced into it. Let these brown, add a little of the liquor, and mix with them, gradually and very smootlily, three 'table-spoonfuls of rice flour, and a saltspoonful of the essence of anchovies. Add the rest of the liquor, little by little, and the calf's head cut into pieces about an inch and a half square, and let all boil together for five or six minutes. Serve with toasted sippets. Probable cost. Is. 8d. per quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Cairs Head, To Carve. Commence by making long slices from end to end of the CAIi ( 101 ) CAL cheek, cutting quite through, to the bone, according to the dotted lines from a to k. Y ith each of these slices serve a cut of what CALFS HEAD FOR CARVING. is called the throat sweetbread, which lies at the fleshy part of the neck end. Cut also slices from c to u ; they are gelatinous and delicate, and serve small pieces with the meat. A little of the tongue and a spoonful of the brains are usually placed on each plate. The tongue is served on a separate plate, surrounded by the irains, and is cut across in rather thin slices. Some persons prefer the eye. It is removed by a circular cut marked by dotted lines at e. First put the knife in skmting at f, inserting the ijoint at the part of the dotted line, and di-iving it into the centre under the eye ; then turn the hand round, kee2)ing the circle of the (lotted lino with the blade of the knife, the point still in the centre. The eye will come out entire, cone-shaped at the under part, when the circle is completed by the knife. The lower jaw must next be renewed, beginning at g ; and to do this properlj' the dish must be turned. The palate is also considered a dainty, and a little of it should always be offered to each guest. Calfs Head with Mushrooms. Take half a calf's head with the skin on, wash it in two or three waters, and boil it about an hoiir, or until the bones can be removed without ver\' ? ;ucli difficulty. Remove the bones, replace the brain, and put the head into a stewpan with the skin downwards, and just cover it with good brown gravy, season it with salt and cayenne, and let it simmer for half an hour. Rub two dozen button mushi-ooms 'vith a flannel and a little salt, cut the ends off : the stalks, which must be separated from the f ? mushi-ooms, and then put them into a stewpan ; with a little hot butter, and boil them in it for ', five minutes, taking care that they do not stick ; ? to the pan. Drain them, and put them into ;'??? the gravy, which may be thickened \'ith a little ? ground rice, and stew all together for another hour. Serve with veal forcemeat balls, and a few rashers of fried bacon. Time, two and a half hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Calf's Head, with Oysters. Boil half a caK's head in the usual way, remove the brains, and only just cover it with water, flavouring it with two onions stuck with five or six cloves, two bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of marjoram and thyme, and a little salt and cayenne. When the head is tender, take it out, strain the liquor, thicken a large breakfast-cupful of it with a dessert-spoonful of floui-, and add the liquor from two dozen oysters, and a breakfast-cupful of milk. Put in the head and siimner again for half an hour. Just before serving, put in the oysters ; let them get hot, but do not allow them to boil or they will be hard. Serve with the oysters round the dish. Time, two hours. Probable cost, with fresh oysters, 9s. 6d.; with tinned oysters, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Calfs Heart, Roasted. Wash the heart thoroughly in several waters, then leave it to soak for half an hour. Wipe it dry, and fill it with good veal stuffing, tie a piece of oiled jDaper round it, and roast it before a good fire for an horn- and a half. A few minutes before it is wanted take off the paper, sprinkle some flour over it, and baste it well. Send it to table with plenty of good bro wn gravy, and some fried bacon on a separate dish. Calf's Kidney. The kidney of a calf may be made into balls, fried in hot butter or oil, and served with good brown gravy and toasted sippets. They must be chopped and made up with bread-crxmibs, cho23ped onions, butter, salt, cayenne, and a beaten egg. Time to fry, ten minutes. They are generally sold with the loin. Probable cost, kidneys, 6d. or 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Calf's Liver (Mock Pate de Foie Gras). Soak some calf's liver for half an hour, then di y it in a cloth, and cut it into thin slices, each of which must be dipped in egg, and minced herbs, salt, and pepper strewn over it. Place a layer of these at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of bacon, and over these some sliced truffles and hard-boiled eggs. Repeat until the dish is full. Pour some good gravy over the whole, cover with a light crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Do not overcrowd the meat in the dish, as there should be jilcnty of jelly. It must be eaten cold. Time to bake, one hour and a half. One pound of calf's liver will suffice for fom- or five i:iersons. Calf's Liver, Stewed. Take two oi three pounds of liver, soak it in cold water for about twenty minutes, then put it into a stewpan with a little melted butter, and let it biown lightly ; pour off the fat, and cover it with some nicely-flavoured stock, and let it stew A-ery gently for a couple of houi's or more. Thicken the gravy, and put a couple of glasses of jiort into it, and the juice of a lemon, or, if preferred, white wine. It is an improvement to lard the liver before putting it into the stewpan, or finely-minced herbs may be strewn over it after browning. Time, two hoiu-s and a half. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Calfs Pluck. stuff the heart with a veal forcemeat to which a little bacon has been CAL ( 102 ) CAN added, and fasten the liver and lights securely round it. Put it before a moderate fire, and baste it well while it is roasting. When it is cooked enough, put it on a hot dish with melted butter, which has been flavoured with a glass of port and the juice of a lemon, roimd it. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. per poimd. Sufficient for six persons. Calf's Pluck (another way). Stuff the ieart as in the last recipe, and bake it in a moderate oven vith a little boiled vermicelli laid over it. When it is sufficiently cooked, put it on a hot dish, slice and fry the liver, lights, and a few rashers of bacon, and place them roimd, and pom- a good brown gravy over the whole. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Calfs Sweetbreads. Calf's sweet"breads should always be soaked for an homer two in cold water, which must be changed once or twice, then put into boiling water for about ten minutes, till they are firm and round but not hard; take them out and put into cold water again until they are wanted to be dressed. This should be done whether they are intended to be stewed, fried, roasted, baked, or cooked in any other way. Calf's Sweetbreads, Baked. Prepare the sweetbreads as above. Dry them, dip thein in egg and bread-crumbs, place two or three lumps of butter or nice beef dripping on and around them, and bake them in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting them frequently dm-ing the process. Serv-e them on a slice of toast, and pour a good brown gravy round them. Sufficient, two sweetbreads for three persons. Calf s Sweetbreads, Stewed. Put two sweetbreads, prepared as above, into a stcwpan with some nicely-flavoured stock, and let them simmer gently for three-quai-ters of an hour or more. Take them out and place them on a hot dish. Draw the gra\y from the fire for a minute or two, and add to it very gradually the yolk of an egg and four tablespoonfuls of cream. Put this over a gentle fire until the sauce thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Just before serving, squeeze into it the juice of a lempn. Sufficient for thi-ee jjcrsons. Calfs Sweetbreads, Stewed (another way). Prepare the sweetbre;ids as above. Take them from the cold water, wipe them dry, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of boiling dripping or butter till they are nicely browned on both sides. Drain them from the fat, serve them on a hot dish, put under them a slice of bread toasted, and jjour over them some maitre d'hotel sauce, made with a cupful of bechamel, a cupful of stock, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon. Pepper and salt to taste. Time to fiy, a quarter of an horn. Sufficient, two sweetbreads for three persons. Calf S Tails. Cut four calf's tails in pieces an inch and a half long, fry them in I boiling fat till they are lightly brownied, then I stew them in good gravy till they are quite tender. Serve them wdth thick biown sauce roimd them, and some stewed muslirooms on a separate dish. When muskrooms cannot be obtained, put a table-spoonful of ketchui into the gravy. Time to stew, two hours. Probable cost, 9d. each. Sufficient for six persons. Cambridge Drink. This agreeable and I refieshing beverage is made by mixing equal quantities of home-brewed ale and soda-water. I Ginger beer may be used instead of soda I water. Cambridge Milk Puncli. Put the thin rind of lialf a small lemon into a pint of new milk, with twelve or fourteen good-sized lumps of sugar (if the Swiss milk is used, the sugar must be omitted) . Let it boil very slowly to di-aw out the flavom- of the lemon, then take it from the fire, remove the rind, and stii- into it the yolk of an egg mixed with a table-spoonful of cold milk, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and foirr of rum. Whisk these thoroughly together, and when the mixture is frothed, it is ready to serve. Time to prepare, half an hour. Probable cost, Sd., exclusive of the brandy and rum. Sufficient for a pint and a haK of punch. Cam.om.ile Tea. Pour a pint of boilingwater over five drachms of camomile flowers. Let them soak for ten minutes, and then strain. If taken warm, camomile tea acts as a gentle emetic. When taken cold it is often beneficial in cases of dyspepsia, hysteria, and head-ache. Cam.p Vinegar. Chop small two cloves of garlic, and put them into a quart bottle with f om- tea-spoonfuls of soy, six of walnut ketchup, and half an ounce of cayenne. Fill the bottle with vinegar, and let it remain for thi-ee weeks; then strain and bottle it for use, being careful to seal the corks. Probable cost, 7d. per pint. Sufficient for a quart. Cam.p Yeast. Boil four quarts of water with two ounces of hops and half a pound of flom- for twenty minutes, stirring it all the time. Strain the liquid, and mix with it half a pound of sugar, and, when it is lukewarm, half a pint of fresh yeast. Put it in a warm place to ferment. Pour off the thin liquor from the top, and bottle it for use. Time to ferment, eight hom-s. Probable cost, 3d. per pint. A cupful of yeast will be sufficient for four quartern loaves. Canadian Cakes. Mix thoroughly one pound of the best flour, qiiarter of a jjound of maizena, thi-ee-quarters of a pound of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Eub in three-quarters of a pound of butter, and add eight eggs well beaten, half an ounce of candied peel chopped very small, a wine-glassful of brandy, and half a pound of currants. Beat these ingi-edients well together, and put the mixture into shallow tins, which must be lined with paper dipped in oil or butter, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, haK an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for fom- cakes. :CAN ( 103 ) CAN Canadian ; Cobbler. Half fill a sodawater glass with pounded ice, and add half a small lemon sliced, a dessert-si oonful of sugar, and two glasses of sherry. Mix well together, and di-ink through a straw. Time to make, a few minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for one person. Canadian Pudding. Mix six tablespoonfuls of maizena or Indian corn-tiour, one quart of milk, and the thin rind of half a lemon, in a saucepan, and let it boil, stirring all the I time. Let it cool ; then mix with it four eggs I well beaten, and a little sugar, and pour it into a well-buttered mould which has been garnished with raisins placed in rows. Steam it for two hours, and serve with wine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six persons. Canapes. Take slices* of the crumb of bread about half an inch thick, and stamp them out in rounds, ovals, or diamonds, then fry them in boiling oil or butter till they are lightly browned. These fonn the foundation of the canapes. Thej'' may be seasoned and garnished with anchovy, shrimp, or lobster paste, toasted cheese, hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, beetroot, parsley, salad, cresses, celery, gherkins, pra-mis, craj-fish, or salmon. A combination of two or three tilings gives them a handsomer appearance. They should be dished on a napkin and garnished with parsley, &c. Time to fry, ten minutes. Canard (aux Pois). Take the remams of cold duck, and cut it into neat joints. Lay these in a stewpan with half a pound of the breast of bacon, cut into pieces about an inch square, and about two ounces of butter. "When lightly bro-wTied, cover the meat with nicely-flavoured stock, which must be thickened with a spoonful of flour, and add a bxinch of parsley, two or three green onions, pepper and salt to taste, and a small piece of sugar. Let these simmer gently for twenty minutes, add one quart of freshlygathered young green peas, which have been thoroughly washed in cold water, and simmer again until the peas are sufficiently cooked. Skim the fat from the gra\y, and serve the peas in the middle, the pieces of duck round them, and the gravy in a tureen. Time, one hour. Probable cost, about Is. 6d., exclusive of the cold duck. Sufficient for four or five persons. Canard Farci. Bone a duck, and fill it with a forcemeat made with three large onions j boiled and chopped, three small apples, finely I minced, a breakfast-cupful of bread-crumbs, a j table-spoonful of sage, a tea-spoonful each of j mustard, sugar, and salt, as much pepper and powdered mace as will stand on a sixpence, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Secure it firmly. Tie it in a cloth, and stew it gently until sufficiently cooked in some good stock. Serve it with green peas or mashed turnips. Time to stew, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. to 3s. each. Sufficient for thi-ee persons. Canary Cream. Put a quart of milk into a saucepan with a Little sugar, the thin rind of a lemon, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and a glass of sherry or light wine. Heat it very gently, stiiTing all the time, till the eggs thicken, and be very careful that it does not curdle. Serve it ia custard glasses, and dust a little powdered cinnamon on the top of each glass. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for six glasses. Cannelon (a la Fran9aise). Mince a pound of underdressed beef and half a pound of bacon, and mix them well together, season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of marjoram and thyme. Bind aU together with beaten egg, form the mince into a roll, tie some white oiled paper round it to keep it in shape, and bake it in a moderate oven. A\Tien sufficiently cooked, take off the paper, put the roll in a dish, and pour good brown gravy round it. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cold meat. Cannelons (see Beef Cannelons). Cannelons (a la Poulette). Take the remains of cold chicken and half the quantity of cold ham ; mince and mix them thoroughly with a little good white sauce. Poll out some good light paste about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut it into pieces two inches long and one inch wide. Place a little of the mixture on half of these pieces, and with the others cover each one ; press the edges, and round them. Fry them in hot fat. Drain, and serve on a napkin. Time to fry, ten minutes. Allow thi'ee for each person. Probable cost, d. each, exclusive of the cold meat. Cannelons, Glazed. Cannelons may be baked instead of fried. They are made exactly in the same way, excepting that just before they are sent to the oven they must be brushed over with the white of an egg, and coarsely-pounded sugar stre'WTi over them. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, one pound of pufl: paste for a large dish. C annelons of Br io che Paste . Bri?che paste may be substituted for puif paste in making cannelons. The paste must be rolled very thin, and they should be served hot and di'}'. Cannelons, or Fried Puffs. 5Iakc some fine putt' paste {see Puff Paste). Poll it very thin, and cut it into pieces two inches wide and six inches long. Place a tea-spoonful of jam on each piece, and roll it over twice. Press the edges (which muct be brushed with OANNELONS. water or the white of egg), and fry the cannelons in hot lard, \ len they begin to bro"mi. CAN ( 104 ) CAP draw them to the side of the fire, or the pastry will be sufficiently browned before it is cooked through. Drain them well by laying a piece of blotting paper on a dish before the fire, and placing them on it for a minute or two. Arrange them in a pile on a napkin. They may be made with any sort of jam, or with fresh fruit. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient, one pound of puff paste for a large disli. Canterbury Pudding. Molt six ounces of butter till it will run, and stu- into it the finely-chopped rind of a lemon, six ounces of sugar, four ounces of fioui-, and three weUbeaten eggs. Beat the mixture thorouglily with a wooden spoon, then pour it into a wellbuttered basin, and steam for one hovu- and a half. Serve with vine sauce. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four persons. Capers. The bottle in which capers are kept should never be left without the cork. They should also be kept covered with the liquor, or they will spoil, and on this account it is better to use a spoonful of white vinegar, instead of the liquor, in making sauce. The flavour cannot be fully extracted unless the capers are bruised. Probable cost. Is. per pint bottle. Caper Sauce, a Substitute for. Pickled gherkins, pickled nasturtium pods, French beans, or green peas, cut small like capers, may be used as a substitute for them. The nasturtium pods are by many persons considered preferable. When none of these are at hand, parsley may be boiled slowly to take away its greenness, and cut up into pieces, not chopped small. Proceed in the same way as with capers. Time, one or two minutes to simmer. Probable cost, the same as for capers ; parsley will be cheaper. Sufficient, a pint of sauce for a leg of mutton. Caper Sauce for Boiled Mutton. Take a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, and stir into it one table-spoonful and a haK of chopped capers and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir the sauce over the fire, simmering it very gently for about a minute. Serve in a sauce tureen. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or four persons. Caper Sauce for Pish. Stir three dessert-spoonfuls of chopped capers and one dessert-spoonful of \'inegar into half a pint of melted butter ; put it on a gentle fire, and when the sauce is simmering, stir in a dessert-spoonful either of the essence of anchovy, mushroom or walnut ketchup, and season rather, highly with cayenne. Time, two minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two pounds of fish. Capillaire. Put two ounces of freshlygathered maidenhair {Adiantum capillus veneris) into a jug, and pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover it. Let it stand on the hob or liearth, to infuse like tea, for ome hours ; then strain it, and put it into a clear syrup made by boiling together throe pounds of sugar and tlrrce pints of water ; add two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and stii* it over the fire for a few minutes. Run the liquid through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and when cold bottle it for use. Cork it secui-ely, and seal the corks. Time to infuse the fern, ten hours. Probable cost, 8d. per quart, exclusive of the maidenhair. It makes an excellent and agxeeable fiavom-ing for all kinds of beverages. Capillaire (another way). Put two ounces of American capiUaii-e into a pint of boilingwater, add a pound of sugar, and when it has stood some time, the white of an egg, and boil it to a thick syrup. Strain it, and wlien it is cold, flavour it with a table- spoonful of oi-angcflower water. Bottle it and seal the corks. Time to infuse, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. per pint, exclusive of the capillair-e. C apillaire , Imitation . Mix well a quart of water with five pounds of sugar, two eggs beaten, and the shells put in. BoH all together, and skim the liquid thoroughly ; strain through a jelly-bag, and fiavoui- it with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. Capillaire in Punch. A small bottle of capillaire is a great improvement to a bowl of punch ; or a pleasant summer drink may be made by putting a -svine-glassful into a tumbler, with the juice of half a lemon, and filling up with water. Capon, The. Capons, to be tender, ought to be killed a day or two before they are dressed", and in cold weather, more than that time may be allowed to intervene between killing and cooking. When the feathers can be easily pulled out, the bird is ready for the spit. They should be managed precisely in the same way as turkeys, and the same sauces may be sent to table with them. They may be had all the year, but are cheapest about October and November, and largest at Christmas. Capon, Boiled. Draw and truss a fine capon, and tie a sheet of oiled or buttered paper over it. Lay it in a saucepan, with sufficient water or stock to cover it, and put with it an onion, a carrot, a bimch of sweet herbs, and a little salt. Stew it gently, and when done, take it up, and lay round the dish on which it is served four or five small cauliflowers. Pour a little bechamel over it. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, Roast. Truss a capon fimily for roasting. Faster some oiled paper over the breast, and roast it before a good fire. "NMien sufficiently cooked, take it down, place it on a hot dish with watercresses round it. Send some good gravy to table with it. Time, to roast, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, Roasted with Cream Stuffing. Truss a capon for roasting. Boil the liver, and mince it as finely as possible. Pour a little cream over a cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let them soak for half an hour. Shi-ed finelv four ounces of snrt. a tf 'i-"" ?"'""! CAP ( 105 ) CAP of scalded parsley, and four or five button mushrooms cut small and fried. Mix these well together with a little pepper and salt, and add the yolks of two eggs. IStuff the capon with the mi.xture, and roast it before a clear Hre. Serve with sauce flavoured with chopped gherkins. Time to roast, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for foiu or five persons. Capon, Roasted with Trufles. Clean, wash, and peel some truffles, and cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick ; fry them in butter, and season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Put them inside the capon, fasten some buttered paper over it, and roast it before a clear fire. This dish is frequently served without any sauce, but, if liked, a little may be sent to table with it made of good molted butter, flavoiu-ed with a quarter of a pound of truffles, peeled, and pounded in a mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and pressed thiough a sieve. Time to roast, one hour or more. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. each. Capon, Stewed. Blanch and boil, as if for curry, three-quarters of a pound of Patna rice. AVliilc it is cooking, fry three sliced onions in thi'ee table-spoonfuls of butter or drijjping, and with them a fine capon cut into joints. When fried, put the fowl and the onions into a stewpan, with sufficient nicely-flavoured stock to cover them, and let them stew gently until tender. jMix a little of the gravy with the rice, season it, then spread it on a dish, and lay the stewed capon upon it. Thicken the gravy, and pour a little of it upon the dish, and send the rest to table in a tiueen. Time to stew, about an hour. Probable cost, from 2s. Gd. to 4s. Sufficient for foiir or five persons. Capon, Stewed (a la Fran ,'aise) . Draw, and truss for boiling, a fine capon. Itubit over with a little lemon- juice, and put it into a stewpan with some slices of bacon under and over it. Cover it with some Aicely-flavoured stock, salted and peppered, and additionallj flavoured with an onion stuck with three or four cloves. Let it stew gently for an hour, then take it up, strain the gravy, and thicken it with a little flour and butter, and add a glass of white wine. Pour the gravy round the dish, and serve. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, from 2s. Gd. to 4s. Capon, Stuffed and Roasted. Shred four ounces of suet veiy finely, and mix w'ith it half the quantity of ham, half a poimd of breadcrumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of marjoram and thyme, two or three grains of cayenne, a little salt and pounded mace, and the finely-chopped rind of a lemon. Allien these are thoroughly mixed, bind them together with two eggs, well beaten. Stuff the capon with this forcemeat, cover it with buttered paper, and roast it. Baste it frequently. Serve it, with some good brown gravy and bread-sauce in a tureen. Time to roast, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Capon, Stuffed with Chestnuts Pare a dozen large sound chestnuts, and blanch 8 them like almonds. Stew them very gently for twenty minutes. Dram and pound them ; them mix with them the liver of the capon boiled and finely minced, two table-spoonfuls of fine broadcrumbs, a piece of fresh butter the size of a small egg, a small tea-spoonful of lemon-iind, a tea-spoonful of chopped jmrsley, a salt-spoonful of salt and the same of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolks of two eggs. Fill the capon with this mixture, cover it with oiled paper, and roast it before a good fire. When it is sufficiently cooked, brush it over with beaten egg, dredge fine bread-crumbs over it, and brown it. Serve with half a pint of good melted butter, to which has been added three chopped gherkins. Probable cost, 2s. Gd. to 4s. each. Time to roast, one hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, To Truss for Boiling. Pick the capon very clean ; singe it if necessarj-. Cut oft' the neck and the claws, and draw the bird, being very careful not to break the gallbladder, as it would make anything that it touched A-ery bitter. Preserve the liver and the gizzard. Fasten back the skin of the neck with a skewer. Press the feet down closely, make a slit in the top of the skin of the legs, and put the legs under. Put the liver and the gizzard in the pinions, then pass a skewer through the first joint of the wing, the middle of the leg, and through the body, and fasten the wing and the leg on the other side with the same skewer. Turn the wings over the I back, fasten a string over the legs and the I skewer to keep everything in its proper place. j Slake a little slit in the apron of the fowl, and put the parson's nose through it. j Capon, To Truss for Roasting. Cut oft' the claws and the first joint of the wings, 1 and make a slit at the back of the neck just ! large enough to admit of the bird being drawn. j Preserve the liver, and the gizzaid, and be care! ful not to break the gall-bladder. Tui-n the ! wings under, bring the legs close, twist the j head round with the bill to the breast, and pass I a strong skewer through the wing, the middle ! of the leg, the liver and gizzard, the body, the head, and the wing and leg on the other side. Tic the legs close to the apron with some strong thread. Truss the bird as firmly as possible, and place a piece of oiled paper over the breast before roasting. "When it is intended to stuft' the capon, the head may be cut right oft', and the skin of the neck skewered over. Capsicum, Essence of. To one pint of brandy or rectified spirits of wine add one ounce of the best cayenne pepper. Let it infuse for three weeks, then pour off the clear liquid, and bottle for use. It is very convenient to have this essence for the flavouring of sauces, &c., as the taste is equally and quickly diffused by stirring a little with some boiling sauce. Cayenne varies so much in strength, that the quantity to be put with each pint of sauce or gravy must be regulated by the taste of the cook. Capsicums, Pickled. Capsicums may be pickled either green or red. They are finest and ripest in September and October. CAP ( 106) CAR If they can be obtained from the garden it is best to gather the pods with the stalks before they are red. Put the capsicums into a jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, allowing a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, and half an oimce of powdered mace, to every quart of vinegar. Pour this, while hot, upon the pods, and when cold, tie down closely with a bladder. They will be iit for use in five or six weeks. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. per himdred. Captain's Biscuits. Put a iMneh of salt with as much flwur as may be required, and make it into a paste with a little new milk. Knead it thoroughly till it is firm and stiff, then divide it into balls, and form into cakes about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Prick them with a fork, and bake for about fifteen minutes. Carachi. Pound a head of gai-lic, and put it into a jar with three table-spoonfuls each of wal- nut pickle, mushroom ketchup, and soy, and two tea-spoonfuls of cayenne pepper, two tea-spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and one of pounded mace. Pour on these one pint of fresh vinegar ; let them remain in the liquid two or three days, then strain, and bottle it for use. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pint. Caramel, or Burnt Sugar. Put a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar into a preserving-pan, place it on a mederate fire, and stii' it with a wooden spoon till it becomes liquid ; then stir it constantly until it is a dark brown. Add one pint of cold water. Draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently for a quarter of an hom* longer. Strain, and bottle for use. If the fire is too fierce, the caramel will be discoloured. This browning should be added to the sauce the last thing. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 2 id. per pint. When wanted, pour a few drops at a time into the tureen until the colour is what is required. Caramel, or Burnt Sugar (another way) . Put one pound of sugar into a preservingpan Avith half a pint of cold water. Let it stand three or fom- minutes, then place it on the fire, and let it boil, skimming and stii-ring it constantly. It will be first a syrup, then begin to bubble and look white, when, if it is intended for caramel, it must have the juice of a lemon stu-red in with it, or it will turn to sugar again. Dip a stick into it, then plunge it into cold water, and when the sugar which ch'ops from the stick snaps like glass, it is ready. It must be poured out instantly. If it is to be used for sugar spinning, the pan must be placed in another of cold water. Have the moulds ready oiled, and throw the sugar over in threads with a fork or spoon. Caraway Biscuits. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour, then add a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, three eggs weU beaten, and a few caraway seeds. Make the mixture into a stiff paste, adding a little Avater if necessary. Roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, stamp it out in rounds, and prick these with a fork. Place the biscuits Oa flomed tins, or on a wire fi'ame, and bake them in a quick oven about ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Caraway, Brandy. Dissolve half a pound of finely-sifted ginger in one quait of brandy, and sprinkle on the top one ounce of whole caraway seeds. Let them remain for ten days in the jar, then strain the liquid and bottle it for use. This makes an excellent stomachic. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, exclusive of the brand}'. Cardoons. Cardoons have long been employed in French cookery, and arc now a good deal cultivated in England, but they require such rich seasoning that they are scarcely fit for domestic cookery. The stalks of the inner leaves are the parts which are eaten. They should be cut into strips about four inches long, and the prickles removed with a flannel. They are generally blanched for use. Cardoons, Boiled. Choose a few heads of sound white cardoons. Cut them into pieces about six inches long, remove the prickles, and blanch them in boiling water for a quarter of an horn-. Scrape off the skin and tie them in bundles. Cover them with nicely-flavoured stock, and boil till tender. Drain them, and serve on toast, with plenty of good melted butter. Sufficient, five or six heads for a dish. Cardoons, Fried. Proceed as above, and when the cardoons are tender, melt a little butter in a pan, drain the cardoons, dredge a little flour over, and fry them till they are nicely bro wned. Send good melted butter to table with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, five or six heads for a dish. Cardoons, Stewed. Prepare the cardoons as above. Then put them into a stewpan ' and cover with a little good gravy, and stew very gently till tender. When sufficiently cooked, thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, season with ca.yenne and salt, and add a glass of sherry. Put the cardoons on a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Sufficient, five or six for a dish. Carp. Carp is a pond rather than a river fish, and requii-es a thoroughly good sauce to be served with it. It is not often offered for sale, but is very useful for families residing in the country, as it may frequently be obtained when no other fish can be. The best carp are those of a medium size. They are better to be kept a day before they are used. From May to November they are not good for food. The head is considered the best part. Owing t6 their habit of burying themselves in mud, the flesh of these fish has often a disagreeable muddy taste ; in cleaning them, therefore, care should be taken to remove the gills, as they are always muddy, to rub a little salt down the back-bone, and to lay them in strong ?alt and water for a couple of hours ; then wash them in clear spring water. A good plan also is to put a piece of the crumb of bread with the fish, and remove it before it is served. There is a small species of this fish called the Crucian cai'p which is good fot nothing. Carp, Baked. Clean and scale a carp. Make a forcemeat with eight ovsters, bearded CAR ( 107 ) CAR and chopped, three boned anchovies, a teaspoonful of fine! J' - chopped j rsloy, half a shallot chopped small, a pinch of salt, a quarter of a salt-s Doonful of cayenne, a jjinch of powdered allspice, and two table - spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put these in a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, stir all well together with the yolk of an egg tiU it is stiff and smooth, then fill the fish, sew it up to prevent the forcemeat escaping, brush it over -ndth beaten egg, and strew breadcrumbs upon it. Pour oiled butter over it, cover it with stock, and bake for one hour. Place the carp on a hot dish, and thicken the gravy in which it was baked with a little floui- and butter, season it with cayenne, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, and the last thing, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Garnish with lemon and parsley, and serve the sauce in a tui'cen. Suflficient for two j ersons. Carp, Baked (anothorway). Wash, scale, and draw the fish. Squeeze over it the juice of two lemons, and let it remain in this for an hour, turning it at the end of half an hour. Put it into a dish, pour uj on it three ounces of oiled butter, and strew over it two minced shallots. Cover it mth oiled MTiting-paper, and bake it gentlj', basting it frequently. Vhen it is nearly baked, melt three ounces of butter in a stewpan, and stir smoothly into it a tablespoonful of flour and a cu rf ul of boiling water, a small salt-spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne. Let the sauce boil ; then add to it gradually half a pint of new milk or cream, and, at the last moment, draw it from the fire and add the juice of a lemon. Mince finely four large gherkins, stir them into the sauce, and pour it over the fish. Time to bake, one hour. Sufficient for tw o persons. Carp, Boiled. Wash, scale, and draw a carp, preserving the liver and roe. Put it into boiling salt and water, allowing a table-spoonful of salt to two quarts of water, and let it boil gently, till it is ready. Make a sauce with half a pint of the liquor in which the fish was boiled, a cupful of port, two shallots finely minced, two boned anchovies, a table-spoonful of soy, salt and cayenne. Let these boil gently till the anchovies are dissolved, then thicken the sauce with fiour and butter, and add the liver finely minced. Garnish with the roe fried, and slices of lemon. Time to boil, from twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Carp, Boiled (au bleu). Clean and draw tlio carp. Cut it into convenient-sized pieces, put it in the fish-kettle with a large onion stuck with four cloves, some salt, pejDper, and scraped horse-radish, and two bay -leaves. Pour over it equal quantities of boiling vinegar, port, and water, allowing sufficient liquid only to cover the fish. Let it boil gently until sufficiently cooked, skim it well, let it get cold in the liquor, and serve on a napkin. Time to boil, from twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Carp (en Matelote). Wash and prepare a carp, and if obtainable, an eel, and cut them into pieces about an inch and a half long. Put three ounces of butter into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it one dozen small onions. Dredge in a table-spoonful of flour, and stii- in smoothly and very gradually a cupful of red wdne, and the same of broth. Add salt and cayenne, two bay-leaves, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a clove of garlic. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, then put in the pieces of eel, and, ten minutes afterwards, the carp, \'ith the roe. Simmer for a quarter of an horn- more. Remove the herbs and the garlic, and pour the sauce hot over the fish. Time, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost of the eel, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Carp, Fried. Clean and empty the fish, dry it well with a cloth, split it open and lay it flat, being careful to remove the gall-stone, which will be found in the head, or it may give a bitterness to the dish. Dredge it weU with flour, and sprinkle salt and cayenne over it, then fry it in plenty of hot butter or dripping till it is lightly browned. Lay it on some blotting paper to drain off the fat. Garnish with fried sippets, and the roes, also fried. Serve with anchovy sauce. Time, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Carp, Fried (another way). Cut a carp into convenient-sized pieces or fillets; sprinkle over them a little salt, pepper, pounded mace, two small onions finely minced, a teaspoonful of parsley, and one of lemon and thyme. Put them into a stewpan, and squeeze the juice of two lemons over them. Place the carp on a gentle fire, and joartly cook it, moving it about constantly, until it has imbibed the flavouring. Take it out, di-ain it, dredge flour over it, and frj in hot lard or butter. Squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. Time, about forty minutes. I Carp, Grilled. Scale, gut, and clean the carp, liub them over with oil, -wrap them in weU- oiled writing paper, and broil. Serve with sorrel round them, and a little sauce in a dish. They are more tasty if some finelyminced herbs are put inside the paper, which may be either taken off or left on. A little lemon-juice should be squeezed over them. Grill for about a quarter of an hour. Carp Pie. Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good light crust. Stuff a medium-sized carp with oyster forcemeat, sew it up to prevent this escaping, and lay it in the middle of the dish. Put round it pieces of eel about an inch and a half in length, which have been already partly cooked. Take three-quarters of a pint of the liquor in which the eel was stewed, put with it a cupful of port, a little salt and cayenne, an onion stuck with four cloves, and a blade of mace. Let these simmer gently until they are reduced to half a pint of gra\y, which may be thickened with a little flom- and butter. Pour this over the fish, cover with crust, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Carp Roe. Put the roe of three or four carps into a stewpan, strew a little salt over them, and cover with inega . Boil them for ten or fifteen minutes, then chop them up '\\dth CAR ( 108 ) CAB half their bulk in bread-crumbs, the finelychopped rind of a lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Make them up into cakes, and bake in a Dutch oven, with a little butter, till they ai-e hot. Time to bake, a few minutes. Carp Roe, Fricasseed. Take five or six roes, strew over them a little salt and pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of finelychopped parsley. JMelt three ounces of butter in a stewpan, and put in the roes with a dozen small mushi'ooms, the juice of a small lemon, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let them stew gently for ten minutes, then add a wine-glass of white wine, and a lump of butter the size of an egg rolled in flom-. Let these simmer for ten minutes more, draw the pan from the fire for a minute, and add half a cupful of cream or new miUc. Serve hot, with the sauce poured over the roes. Time, half an horn-. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Carp, Sauce for. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan, and stu* into it very smoothly a dessert-spoonful of flom-, a little gravy, a cupful of good cream, and two anchovies chopped finely. Let it boil, stir it well, then add a table-spoonful of soy, season with salt, and, just before serving, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the sauce. Carp, Stewed. Cleanse three or four fish thoroughly. Wash them well with a little vinegar in the water to di-aw out the blood. Split the fish, and cut them into good-sized pieces. Rub them well with a little salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, a dessert - spoonful of finely -chopped parsley, a cupful of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a stick of horse-radish. Let them siuimer gently for an hour or more. Talce out the slices of fish, and strain the gravy. Add to it a cupful of cream or new milk, let it boil up, then draw it from the fire for a minute, or two, and add gradually the yolks of two eggs mixed with a little cream. Pour the boiling sauce over the slices of carp, and make a prominent display of the roe. Carp, Stewed (another way). Cleanse a carp thoroughly, and cut it into slices, then put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of bacon and a quarter of a pound of veal cut into shces, foiu- small onions stuck with four cloves, two carrots, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, haK a dozen chives, and, if liked, half a clove of garlic. The vegetables must be sliced and the herbs chopped. Pour a glass- ful of white wine over the carp, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, then add equal parts of white wine and stock, sufficient to cover the fish and vegetables. Let them simmer gently for an hour, thicken the sauce with a little tiour and butter, add pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and boil it, stirring continually, until it is a proper consistency. Time to prepare, one hour and a half. Sufficient for one or two persons. Carp, Stewed (another way). Clean thoroughly two carps. Save the roes, and fry the fish lightly in hot lard, lay them in a stewpan, and cover with a mixtui-e composed equally of wine and stock. Stew gently until sufficiently cooked, then strain the gravy, add salt and pepper, a table-spoonful of ketchup, the I juice of half a lemon, and a small piece of butter rolled in flom-. Pour the sauce over the j fish, and garnish with fried roes and toasted sippets. Time to stew, half an hour. I Carrier Sauce. Pour a breakfast-cupful of good blown gravy over a table-spoonful of finely-minced shallots. Add a little salt and cayenne, and a table-spoonful of chili vinegar. Simmer gently for about thirty minutes, till the shallots are sufficiently cooked, then strain the sauce, and serve with mutton. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. Carrot. This vegetable is almost invariably sent to table with boiled beef. AVhen the carrots are young, they should be washed and brushed, not scraped, before coolving and old carrots also are better prepared in this way then rubbed with a clean coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots require an hour for cooking, and fully-grown ones from one horn- and a half to two hours. The red is the best part. Li order to ascertain if the root is. sufficiently cooked, stick a foik into it. When they feel soft they are ready for serving. They are excellent for flavouring, and contain a great amount of nourishment. Carrot Cheesecakes. Boil a moderatesized carrot until tender. Pound it in a mortar, and pass the pulp through a fine hair sieve. Mix with it an ounce of oiled butter, two dessert-spoonfuls of washed currants, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of fresh curd, and a well-beaten egg. Line some patty-pans with good pufp paste, half fill them with the mixtm-e, and bake in a good oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, about Id. each. C Carrot Fritters. Boil a large carrot until it is quite tender. Beat it to a pulp, pass it through a sieve, and mix with it two table-spoonfuls of cream, the same of finelygrated bread-crumbs, and two eggs well beaten. Frj' the mixture in fritters in hot lard or dripping, and serve them with good brown sauce. Sufficient for two persons. Carrot Jam (to imitate Apricot Jam). Choose young, deep-coloured carrots ; wash and scrape them, then boil them until the}' are quite tender. Rub them through a colander, then through a sieve, and to every pound of pulp allow one pound of sifted white sugar, half a dozen bitter almonds chopped small, and the grated rind and juice of a lemon. Put these ingredients into a preserving-pan, and let them boil for a few minutes, stirring them constantly, and removing the scum as it rises. WTien cold, add a wine-glassful of brandy for every pound of pulp. Put the jam into jars, and tie it up carefully. With the addition of the brandy, it will keep for some time. Time, six or eight minutes to boil all together. Carrot Pie. This is a favourite dish with vegetarians. Wash and slice the carrots, and CAR ( 109) CAR parhoil them. Put them into a dish edged with .1 lii :ht crust. Add pepper and salt, aud pour a little water over them. Cover them with crust, and bake the pie in a moderate oven. Time to hake, thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of carrots, 6d. or 8d. per bunch. Sufficient, a moderate-sized pie for si.x persons. Carrot Pudding, Baked or Boiled. Boil some large carrots till they are tender, pass them thi'ough a sieve, and mi.x one pound of the pulp with half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, six ounces of finely-shi-ed suet, and a quarter of a pound each of stoned raisins, washed currants, and brown sugar. ]\Iix these ingredients well together, and add a little gi'ated nutmeg, a large pinch of salt, and three eggs well beaten, together with as much new milk as will make a thick batter. If baked, put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake it in a moderate oven ; if boiled, put it in a welloiled mould, tie it in a cloth, and boil or steam it. Sei-ve with sweet sauce. Time to bake, one hour and a half ; to boil, three hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Ca,rrot Sauce. Take half a pint of good melted butter. Bring it to a boil, then stir into it two table-spoonfuls of mashed carrots, and a little salt and pepper. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two jjounds of stewed cutlets. X Carrot Soup. Put any bones that you may have into three quaiis o;f stock or water, mth three turnips, three onions, a head of celery, or half a tea-spoonful of celery seeds, two bay-leaves, and the red part of ten goodsized carrots, cut off in slices. Stew the vegetables till tender, then take out the carrots, pound them in a mortar, mix with them a little of the liquor, and pass them through a coarse sieve. Strain the rest of the liquid, and retirrn it to the saucepan : put with it the pulped (?aiTots, and let it boil till it is as thick as peasoup. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for six peisons. Carrot Soup (another way). Put four 'lunces of fresh butter into a saucepan, allow it to melt, then put into it a large onion cut into thin slices, half a pound of lean ham, also sliced, and the red jiart of twelve caiTots grated. Let these remain over a moderate fire till thov are nicely coloured, stirring them occasionally to prevent them burning. A\Tien ready, add two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. Simmer the soup for two hours. Remove the ham, strain the soup, and pass the carrot through a fine sieve, then return it to the soup; boil it again, season it with cayenne and salt, and serve. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 5d. per pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Carrot Soup (maigre). Take two large onions, with eight largo carrots (which have been washed and scraped, the red part cut into thin slices and the yellow part left out), one turnip, two heads of celery, or one tea-spoonful of celery seed, and six ounces of the crumb of bread. Put three quarts of water into a saucepan, with a piece of soda the size of a pea. Let this boil; then put in the above ingredients, with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and mace. When they are soft, take out the. ?egetables and rub them through a coarse sieve ; replace them, and add to the souji, when boiling, a large breakfast-cupful of cream or new milk. The soup should be as thick as cream. Time, two and a half hours. Probable cost, l d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Carrots (a la Flamandc). Take a bunch of young carrots, which alone are suitable, wash them well, cut off the heads and points, and place them in boiling water for iive minutes. Take them out, drain, rub off the skin with a coarse cloth, cut them into very thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of water, a little salt and pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a small egg. Cover them closeh', and simmer gently for twenty minutes, shaking the pan occasionally in order that they may be equally cooked. Mix the yolks of two eggswith a cupful of cream, and a desscrt-si oonful of finely-chopped parsley. Draw the pan from the fire for a couple of minutes, taking oft' the cover, put a table-spoonful or two of the liquid with the eggs and cream, then pour the whole gradually into the saucepan. Stir the sauce until it thickens, and serve the carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time to stew the carrots, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. per bunch. Sufficient for four or five persons. Carrots (a la Flamande), another way. Boil whole, six large carrots until they are quite tender; then stamp them out in stars, wheels, dice, or any other shaj e, and stew them in a little good melted butter with five small onions, a table-spoonful of finely-chojji ed parsley, and a little salt and i:)epper. Serve the carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for eight persons. Carrots (a la Peine). Choose some fine large carrots and cut them into pieces about three inches long ; make them flat at one end and narrow and round at the other, so as to give them the form of cones. Boil them until nearly tender, then place them upright in a saucepan with some good gravy, leaving about an inch of the tops uncovered to prevent their being broken. Boil them until they are sufficiently cooked, take them out, and arrange them in a dish. Thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, add a pinch of salt and a small piece of sugar to it, and pom- it OA'cr them. Time, one hour and a half. Carrots, Boiled. Wash and prepare the carrots. If they arc very large they should be halved and sliced. Tlirow them into plenty of boiling water with salt in it, keep them boiling,, and when a fork can be easily pushed into them they are ready. They may bo boiled in the same saucepan with beef, and a few should be placed round the dish and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Melted butter generally accompanies them. Many persons are fond of cold can-ots with cold beef. They may be easily warmed up by covering them closely and jjutting the dish in which they are x laccd into boilingwater. Time, young carrots, one hour ; f ullygro\vn, one and a half to two hours. Sufficient, four large carrots for six persons. CAR (110) CAS Carrots, Fried. Wash and partly boil the carrots whole; cut them into thin slices, diji them in egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter or lard. Serve them piled high on a dish. Cold carrots may be warmed up this way. Time to f ly, ten minutes. Sufficient, six carrots for five persons. Carrots in their own Gravy. Wash, scrape, and slice the carrots. Put them into boiling salt and water, only just enough to cover them, and when they are tender let them boil fast till only two or three spoonfuls of the liquid remains. Put with the gravy a piece of brown thickening the size of a nut. Shake the saucepan till the gravy is thickened, and serve very hot. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Mashed. Scrape off all the skin from some large carrots, and boil them till tender ; mash them smoothly, and return them to the saucepan, beat thoroughly for a few minutes, adding a small piece of butter and a little salt and pepper. Two or three spoonfuls of gravy or a cupful of milk may be added, but in either case let the vegetables remain over the fire, stii-ring them constantly till they are nearly dry. Time, one hour and a half to boil ; ten minutes to dry. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Red Puree of. Wash and scrape some fine large carrots. Cut the red part off in thin slices, and boil these for about a quarter of an horn-. Take them out, drain, and put them into a saucepan with an onion stuck with two cloves, a little salt and pepper, a small piece of butter, and just enough stock to cover them. Let them boil gently till tender, then pass them through a coarse sieve. Place the pulp in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a mall piece of sugar, and a cupful of stock, and stir until it is thick. The puree may be served with stowed mutton cutlets round it. Time, two hours and a half. Sufficient, eight large carrots for two pounds of cutlets. Carrots, Sliced and Glazed. Wash and scrape some fine large carrots, and cut them into equal slices. Partly boil them in salt and water, drain, and put them into a saucepan with just sufficient stock to cover them, a piece of butter, a little salt, and a good-sized lump of sugar. Boil quickly until the gravy is reduced to glaze. Shake the saucepan over the fire for a few minutes, till all the gravy adheres to the carrots. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per bimch. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Stewed. Wash and slice some large carrots, and simmer them in as much weak broth as - all cover them till they are nearly tender, then add a cupful of milk, and thicken the sauce with fiour and butter. Season it with pepper and salt. Keep stirring the eontents of the saucepan to prevent them burning. Put the carrots into a hot vegetable dish, and powr the gravy over them. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Sweet (for a second course). Boil six or eight large carrots till tender, drain them, and pass them through a coarse hair sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan, and dry it over a moderate fire for a few minutes, ' stirring it all the time. Mix with it two ounces i of good butter, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of finely-sifted sugar. When this is thoroughly blended, add a cupful of cream or new milk. Serve with toasted sippets. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient for six persons. Carrots, To Dress in the German way. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucej jjan. Lay in it six carrots cut into thin slices, with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced onion. Let them remain until tender, adding every now and then as it is required a little water or stock. Thicken the sauce with a little flour, and about a quarter of an hour before serving, add one table-sjioonf ul of finely-minced parsley. Time, one hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. . Cassell Pudding. Take the weight ef a large egg in powdered sugar, butter, and florn-. Whisk the egg thoroughly. Gradually mix with it the sugar, which must be rubbed well on the rind of a lemon before it is pounded, then the floui-, and the butter partially melted ; add a pinch of salt. Well oil some cups, put a little apricot or other jam at the bottom of each, and fill them three parts with the mixture. Bake immediately in a good oven. Turn the puddings out, and serve them with wine sauce. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost for six puddings, 6d. Allow one for each person. Casserole of Potatoes. Peel and boil some good mealy potatoes, mash them with a little salt, butter, cream, and the yolk of one egg to every pint of potatoes. Beat them two or three minutes over the fire to dry them thoroughly, then place them on a shallow dish, and work them with the hands into the shape of a raised pie. Leave a hollow in the middle, ornament it with flutings, &c., brush it over with beaten egg, and brown it in a quick oven. Fill the inside with a ragoiit or mince, and serve hot. Casserole of Rice (English method). Wash a pound of the best rice in two or three waters, and boil it very gently until it is quite tender but whole. Drain it and beat it well. If for a sweet casserole, use milk, sugar, a little butter, and lemon or other flavouring. If in j tended for meat or fish, stew the rice with water i and fat, and season it with salt, pepper, and [ nutmeg. When it is ready, put a bordering about three inches high and three wide round ' the edge of a shallow dish, brush it over with egg or clarified butter, and set it in the oven to brown. Then -place in the middle the stew, curry, or sweets which are jDrepared for it. Time to boil the rice, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusi -e of the interior. Sufficient for five or six persons. Casserole of Rice (French method). Wash one pound of the best Carolina rice in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with a quart of water, a large onion, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two ounces of fat. CAS ( 111 ) CAU i The skimmings of saucepans will answer for tliis purpose, or fat bacon, but if these are not at hand, use butter. Sinmier very gently till the rice is quite soft but whole. Then draui it, and pound it to a paste. Well butter a baking dish or casserole mould, and press the paste into it. Mark on the top a cover, making the mark rather deep. Pour a little butter over the whole, let it get cold, then turn it out of the mould, and bake it in a very hot oven till it is brightly browned, but not hard. The oven can scarcely be too hot for it. Take off the marked cover about an inch in depth. Scoop out the Eiiddle, and fill it with whatever is prepared for it. This may consist of mincemeat, Irish stew, rechauffed cui'iies, hashes, or macaroni. Pour in a suitable sauce, replace the cover, and before ser\dng, return it to the oven for a few minutes. Time to boU the rice, about thi-eequarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the mincemeat, 6d. Siifiicicnt for six persons. Casserole of Eice, with Eggs. Prepare the rice as in the preceding recii e. When it has been worked into a stiff paste, line a welloiled mould with it ; a piece of bread may be put inside, shaped properly, to h?ld it up, but care must be taken to leave a compact wall all round. \Tien baked, remove the bread, put in the mince or fricassee, and cover the top vnth. poached eggs. Serve very hot. Time, threequarters of an hour to boil the rice. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the mixture. Sufficient for six persons. Casserole, Sweet. Prepare the rice as before, using milk instead of water, and butter instead of bacon or other fat. The flavouring may consist of lemon, vanilla, or almond, according to taste. "Wlien the pudding is browned, scooj) the rice from the middle, leaving, as before, a firm waU aU around, and fiU the hoUow with jam, or a compote of any fruit. The latter is, we think, much to be preferred. Sift a little pounded sugar over the whole before serving. Time to boil the rice, three-quarters of an horn-. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the fruit. Sufficient for a good and pretty dish. Cassile. Put a pint of cream &r new milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of a lemon, and three or four lumps of sugar. Let it stand near the fire for a few minutes to di-aw out the flavoiu- of the lemon, then boil it, and pour it, when boiling, over a large table-spoonful of arro vroot mixed smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cream. Return it to the saucepan, stir it over the fire for fom- minutes, pour ijito a damp mould, and when cold and finn, turn it into a glass dish, and serve with bright-coloured jam. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a small dish. Cassolettes of Rice. Prepare the rice as for a casserole (see Casserole). Work it to a smooth paste, and fill some small jelly-pots with it. Mark in each one an inner circle about threequarters of an inch deep for the cover. AVhen cold, tm-n the rice out, brush it over with egg, and brown in a quick oven. Take out the centre, fiU it with a ragout or mince, replace the cover, and serve. Cassolettes are, in fact. tiny casseroles. Some persons fry instead of baking them, but if this should be done, great care must be taken that they do not break in the process, and the butter or oil must be very hot. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. each. Allow one for each person. Caudle. Caudle is oatmeal gruel, sweetened, with ale, brandy, or wine added to it. It may be made in several ways. The simplest is the following : Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal with a cupful of cold water. Pour a pint of boiling water or milk over it, return it to the saucepan, and let it boil for fom- or five minutes,, stirring it aU the time. Add wine, ale, or brandy, according to taste. Sweeten, and season with nutmeg or ginger. This wiU be thin caudle ; if it is wanted thick, two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal must be used. Or, mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal in a pint of water. Let it stand one houi-. Then strain, and boil it. Sweeten, and add wine, ale, or brandy, with seasoning to taste. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Caudle maj' be made with flour or ground rice instead of oatmeal. Probable cost, IJd. per pint, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Caudle (another way). Make a pint of thin oatmeal gruel {see preceding recipe) . Let it boil, then stir into it, very gradually, the yolk of an egg mixed with a little cold water. Add a glass of sherry or port, a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind, and three or four lumps of sugar. This caudle is wholesome and pleasant. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for ene person. Caudle, Cold. Pour a pint of cold boiled water on the rind of a small lemon, and let it stand for an hour-. Take out the rind and mix in the yolk of an egg well beaten, a cupful of sweet wine, thi-ee or four lumps of sugar, and the lemon-juice. Probable cost, 2Jd., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Caudle, Old Fashioned Brown. Stii- two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal into a pint of water, and add the thin rind of a lemon, a blade of mace, and a table- spoonful of brown sugar. Let all boil together, then strain the liquid and add a pint of mild ale. Warm it for use. A little grated ginger is often put into this caudle. Or, make a little oatmeal gruel, sweeten and season it according to taste, and, just before serving, stir into it an equal quantity of fresh porter. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 14d. per pint. Sufficient, one pint for each person. Cauliflower. This favourite vegetable should be cut early, while the dew is still upon it. Choose those that are close and white, and of medium size. Whiteness is a sign of quality and freshness. Great care should be tsiken that there are no caterpillars about the stalk, and, to ensui-e this, lay the vegetable with its head do vnwards in cold water and salt for an hour before boiling it; or, better still, in cold water mixed -wTfth a little vinegar. Ti im away the outer leaves, and cut the stalk quite close. Cauliflowers are in season from the middle of June till the middle of November. CAU ( 11 ) CAU Cauliflower (a la Fran(,-aise). Cut away the stalk and the green leaves, and divide a cauliflower into quarters. Put the branches into a little vinegar and water, then put them .into a stewpan with some boilinu; water, with a table-spoonful of salt in it, and let them boil until they are done. This may be ascertained liy taking a little piece between the finger and thumb, and if, though still firm, it give away easily, it is sufficiently cooked. Drain the cauliflower and arrange it neatly in a dish. Pour over it a pint of good melted butter. Time to boil, about twelve minutes. Probable cost, 4d. for a medium-sized cauliflower. Sufiicient, one for two persons. Cauliflower (a la Sauce Blanche). Cut the stalks ofl: close, trim the leaves, and put the cauliflower into a little vinegar and water to draw out the insects. Put it head downwards in boiling salt and water, and boil it till it is done. As cauliflowers will continue to cook, though more slowly, if left in hot Avater, if they are a little too soon, they may be taken off the fire before they are quite ready. Take a little piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and if it yields easily it is done. Drain the vegetable and ai-range it in a hot dish, and jjour over it a little French white sauce {see Sauce Blanche) . Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufiicient, one medium-sized cauliflower for two persons. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. Cauliflower, Boiled. Cut the stalk close to thi:! buttom, and pare away the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle of shortened leafstalks all round. Put the cauliflower iiead downwards into a little vinegar and water for a quarter of an hour, as this ?will be sure to di-aw out the insects. Put it into a pan of boUing water, with a table-spoonful of salt in it. Some persons prefer milk and water. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, or the cauliflower will be discoloured. Boil tiU tender. This may be ascertained by taking a little piece -of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and if it yields easily to pressure it is ready. Drain, and serve. Put a lump of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan with a breakfastcupful of cold water. Add gradually a heaped tea-spoonful of flour, mi.x smoothly, boil, and strain over the vegetable. Time: a large cauliflower, fifteen to twenty-five minutes ; a small one, twelve to fifteen minutes. As cauliflowers will continue cooking, though slowly, if left in the water in the stewpan, it is important that they should be taken oft" the fire before they are quite done, unless they can be served immediately. Sufiicient, a small one for one person. Probable cost, Sd. to 6d. Cauliflower, Moulded, with Sauce. Boil four large white cauliflowers in a little thin flour and water until tender, then cut oft' the stalks and press them head downwards into a hot basin. Turn them into a tureen, and pour round them a little tomato or piquante sauce. Before serving, place the stalks neatly round them. They should look like one immense cauliflower. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. each. Cauliflower, Pickled. This pickle should be made about the beginning of August. Choose firm, fresh, white heads, and let them be cut on a dry day. Pare away the leaves and the stem, and place the flowers for five minvites in. boiling water, but do not let them boil up, Drain them, and cut them into convenient-sized pieces, and leave them on a sieve to diy. Half till the jars, and fill them with cold vinegar in which spices have been boiled, allowing a quart of vinegar to two ounces of peppercorns, a drachm of cayenne, an ounce of ginger, and lialf an ounce of mace. Cover closely. Probable cost, Is. per pint jar. Cauliflower Sauce. Make a pint of good white sauce. Boil a cauliflower till tender, I drain, and chop it small, then stir it into the I boiling sauce, let it remain over the fire for a j minute or two, and serve. Time, from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. per head. Sufficient for a pint and a half I of sauce. I Cauliflower Soup (maigre). Put a I quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, let it melt, then stir into it very smoothly, three dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, and a teaspoonful of celery seed. Slice into it a large I cauliflower, a large onion, and a table-spoonful of French beans. Fry the vegetables gently for a few minutes, then add, gradually, three pints of boiling water, or the water in which cauliflowers have been boiled. Simmer gently till the vegetables are reduced to a pulp, then strain the soup, and return it to the saucepan. Add a little salt and pepper. Put in a few i sprigs of boiled cauliflower before serving it. A glass of white wine will improve the soup. Serve with boiled rice, and lay a slice of the crumb of bread toasted at the bottom of the tureen. Time, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or foiupersons. Cauliflower, w;itli Stufiing. Choose a saucepan the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, fii-m, white cauliflower, and cut it into sprigs ; throw these into boilingsalt and water for two minutes ; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downwards, in the saucepan, the ; bottom of which must have been previously I covered with thin slices of bacon Fill uj) the ] vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three i table-spoonfuls of finely-minced veal, the same of beef suet, four table-spoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little popper and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of minced chives, and a dozen small mushrooms chopped small. Strew these ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers, and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add sufficient nicely-flavoured stock to cover the whole. Simmer gently till the cauliflowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced ; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savoury mixture. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. for a large cauliflower. Sufficient for four or five persons. CAU ( 113) CEL Cauliflowers (au Gratin). Cleanse, trim, and qiiailcr one or two largo cauliflowers. Throw tLoai into boiling water, and let them remain for live minutes; drain and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are ready. Whilst they are boiling mis smoothly together in a stewpan an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour, add a pint and a quarter of water, and a little pepper and salt. Let the sauce boil, and stir it over the lire for ten minutes. Put in with it an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese and an ounce of Gruj ere cheese, and boil it Ave minutes longer. Cut the cauliflov ers into neat pieces ; lay half of these in a tureen, pour a little of the sauce over them, and add the remainder of the vegetables and the !?( .st of the sauce. Sprinkle a large table-spoonful C)l bread-raspings, and another of grated Parmesan over the top, and bake the preparation in a hot oven until it is nicely browned. Serve very hot. Time to brown, quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five IKTSons. Cauliflowers, with Parmesan Cheese. Chooso three or four young, firm, wjiite cauliflowers, cut off the stalks and the stems, making them flat, so that they will stand iiiccly in the dish. Cleanse them thoroughly, and boil them until tender, but not sufficiently so to run any risk ef their breaking. Dish them so as to make them look like one cauliflower, and powder them thickly with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour a good sauce over this. When it is firmly set, add another layer of cheese, and strew over this some finely - gi'ated breadcrumbs. The sauce may be made thus : Rub a table-spoonful of flour into a quarter of a pound of butter, mix it smoothly over the fire, and add very gradually a breakfast-cupful of water, one pinch of salt, and a small pinch of pepper. Stir it constantly till it boils, then take it from the fire for a minute or two, and add slowly the yolk of an egg mixed with the juice of haH a lemon and a tea-spoonful of water. Stir until the whole is well mixed. Brown the cauliflower with a salamander or in a hot oven, pour a little sauce round, and serve hot, as a third eom-se dish. Time to boil the cauliflower, twelve to twenty minutes. Probal)le cost, 4d. or 6d. each. Sufficient for six persons. Caveach Fish. Clean some large fish, either cod, salmon, or mackerel, and cut them into slices. Rub each slice well with pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; and fry them in hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then lay them in jars. Boil some spices in ?vinegar, allowing two finely-minced shallots, two cloves, a blade of mace, a quarter of an ounce of bkick peppercorns, and two bay-leaves to a quart of vinegar. Nearly fill the jars with this, when cold, and put on the top a little saladoil. Tie them down closely. The fish will keep good for some months. It should be prepared when tlie fish is in full season, and when served, the pieces should be piled in the middle of the dish, and a salad ser\-ed round them. Probable cost, cod, 6d. per pound; salmon, Is. 2d. per pound ; mackerel, 4d. or &d. Caviare and Mock Caviare. The true caviare must be bought. It is usually 8a eaten as a relish, with dry toast, pepper, lomonjuice or vinegar and oil. When fresh, the taste is rather like that of oysters. It is made of the roe of sturgeon or salmon. Mock caviare is made by pounding boned anchovies, with a clove of garlic ; then mbcing witli the paste lemonjuice or vinegar, salt, cayenne, and a few drops of salad-oil. It should be served spread thinly on bread and butter or toast. Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost, aachovies, Is. per haK pint bottle. Cayenne, Home-made. Cayenne is so much adulterated, and varies so much in strength, that we strongly advise those who are partial to it to make it themselves. Some of that sold in England has been found to be coloured with red lead, and even that sold in Jamaica is not to be relied upon, as it is prepared from several sorts of rod capsicums, all of inferior quality both in pungency and flavour. The best time to make it is in September or October, and the chilies should be used as fresh as possible. Take two hundred largo chilies, remove the stalks and dry them in a colander before the fire, being careful that they do not burn. Pound them, with a quarter of their weight in salt, to a fine powder. Put the powder into a bottle and cork it closely. The flavour of this cayenne will be superior to that sold in the shops, and it will not be nearly so fier} Time, fom-teen hours to drj'. Sufficient for a quarter of a pound of cayenne. Probable cost of chilies, from Is. 6d. to 3s. per hmidi-ed. Cayenne Vinegar or Essence. Put half a pint of brandy, wine, claret, or vinegar into a bottle with half an ounce of cayenne. Let it infuse for three weeks, then strain and bottle it for use. This essence is excellent for flavouring sauces, gravies, &c., but it should be used judiciously, as the strength of cayenne varies so much that is impossible to say how much ought to be used. The best way is to put in two or tliree drops, then taste, and add more if required, Cecils. Mince very finely iowc table-spoonfuls of any kind of cold meat, and piit it into a saucepan with an equal weight of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped onions, two or three boned anchovies, a little salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, and a piece of butter warmed. Mix them over the fire for a few minutes, then take them off, and, when cool, add the yolk of an egg. Form the mixture into balls rather larger than a hen's egg, dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and fry tiU they become a light brown. Serve with good brown gravy. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, d. each. Allow one for each person. Celeriac. The stalks of this vegetable can hardly be distinguished from celery. It is much more easily cultivated, and cooked in a much shorter time. It maybe boiled, stewed, and served with white or brown sauce in the same manner as celery. Four or five minutes ?will stew it. Celery. This vegetable imparts an agreeable and peculiar flavour to soups, sauces, &c. It is generally eaten raw, the brittle leaf-stalks CEL (114) CEL being the Englishman's favoui'ite acrompaniment to bread and cheese. There are several ways in which it may be nicely prepared, and when cooked it is more digestible and equally palatable. When the roots are not to be had, the pounded seed is an excellent substitute for flavouring. It is in season from October to February, and is better when it has been touched "by the frost. Celery, Boiled. Have ready a saucepan of boihng water, with a little salt in it. Wash the celery carefully. Cut off the outer leaves, make the stalks even, and lay them in small bunches. Throw these into the water, and let them boil gently until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. "When done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which has been dipped in the liquid. Pour over them a little good melted butter, and serve. Time : young celery, three-quarters of an hour ; old, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. pear head. Sufficient, one head for two persons. Celery, Essence of. Put an ounce of pounded celery seed into a bottle, and pour over it half a pint of spirits of wine, white wine, or brandy. Let this infuse for three weeks, then strain and bottle for use. 'When wanted, put a few drops upon a lump of sugar, and throw it into the pan, and the flavour will immediately diifuse itself throughout. This is a pleasant addition to salads. Four or five drops on a small lump of sugar will be sufficient for a pint. Probable cost, '2d., exclusive of the spirit. Celery for Flavouring. The outside dark leaves of celery should never be thrown away, as they may always be used for flavouring soups, sauces, and gravies. If a tea-spoonful of celery seed be bruised and tied in a little piece of muslin, then throwTi into the stock pot, it will impart as much flavour as two heads of fresh celery. Celery seed for flavouring is sold in penny packets. Sufficient, one penny packet for two quarts. Celery Garnishing. Cut the tops off two heads of celery, leaving each head about eight inches long. Point the roots, and put them in boiling water for eight or ten minutes. Tie them together, and put them in a saucepan ; cover them with good stock, and add a tablesj)Oonful of pot fat, one carrot, one onion, stuck with two cloves, a little salt and pepper, and a bay-leaf. Close the saucepan, and let the contents simmer gently for an hour and a half, then drain the celery and arrange it roimd a dish of boiled fowls, &c. Probable cost, 2d. or 4d. per head. This quantity will be sufficient for a small dish of fowls. Celery, Puree of. Wash thoroughly four heads of fresh white celery, cut them into small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, with an onion sliced, and a quarter of a pomid of butter. Let them simmer very gently till tender, then add a quarter of a pound of flour mixed smoothly with a pint of milk. Let this boil up, then pass the whole through a tine sieve, season with salt, pepper, and a little piece of sugar, and add some butter and very thick cream to the puree. Serve in the middle of a dish, with cutlets, &c., round. Time for young celery, thi-ee-quarters of an horn- ; if old, one hour and a haK. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Celery Salad. Cut blanched celery very small. Be careful that it is perfectly dry, and do not prepare it untH two or three minutes before it is to be used. Pour over it a Mayonnaiso sauce {see Mayonnaise) and garnish with green celery leaves. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, *d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for two persons. Celery Sauce. Cut the white part of two heads of celery into pieces about one inch and a half long. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted, throw in the celery, and shake it in the pan until it is quite tender. Mix in very smoothly a large table-spoonful of flour, and when it has browned a little, add a breakfast-cupful of good gravy. Season with salt and a little powdered mace. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for one small fowl. Celery Sauce (a quick way). If celery sauce is wanted in a hurry, some good melted butter may be flavoured vrith a few drops of the essence of celery, and a little cream or newmilk, and a pinch of powdered mace, may be added. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, five drops on a piece of sugar to a pint. Probable cost, 6d. per half pint. Celery Sauce, for Turkeys, Fowls, &C. Slice the best part of four heads of young celery in smaU pieces, and boil them in salt and water for twenty minutes. Drain them, and put them into a clean saucepan, with sufficient veal broth or gravy to cover them, add a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade of mace, and stew all gently together until quite tender. Add two ounces of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and when this is quite smooth, stir in a cupful of good cream. Time, one horn-. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for a couple of small fowls. If this sauce should be wanted richer, the yolks of two or three eggs may be added, but celery saiice is frequently spoilt by too much seasoning. Celery Soup. Cut the white part of four heads of celery into pieces about an inch long, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of good white stock, two ounces of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a lump of sugar. Let them boil for a quarter of an hour, put in with tliem three pints more of stock, a httle salt, and a blade of mace. Stew gently for an hour, then press the soup through a coarse sieve and add a breakfast-cupful of good cream ; let it get quite hot, and serve it immediately with toasted sippets. If liked this soup may be thickened with a little flour. Probable cost, lOd. per pint if cream be used. Sufficient for eight persons. Celery, Stewed. Wash four heads of celery very clean, trim them neatly, cutting off the leaves and tops ; cut them into tliree-inch lengths, and tie them in small bundles, and parboil them in sufficient salt and water to cover them. Drain and stew them, until tender, in some stock. Brown two ounces of butter with a table-spoonful of floirr in a saucepan, dilute it with the stock in which the celery was boiled. CEL ( 115 ) CHA lay the celery in it, let it boil for ten niinutes more, and serve as hot as possible. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for six persons. Celery, Stewed (a la CrCme). Wash very clean two heads of celery, trim them neatly, cutting off the decayed leaves and the green tops, and boil them in salt and water until nearly tender. Drain them and put them in a dish. Have ready in another saucepan a breakfast-cupful of good cream. Let it boil, with a piece of butter roUed in flour, till it is thick and smooth; then pour it over the celery, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and serve. Time to boil the celery, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a half. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Celery, To Dress. Cut off the end of the root, leaving the white part ; wash it very carefully, trim away all the decayed leaves and outer stalks, and if the root be very thick, split it into quarters. Send it to table in a celery glass half fiUed with cold water. Curl the top leaves by di-awing the point of a skewer through them, dividing them into strips about five inches from the top. Celery, To Fry. Cold boiled celery -will answer for this purpose. Split three or four ieads, and dip the pieces into clarified butter, and fry them until they are lightly browned ; lay them 'on some blotting-paper for a minute to drain. off the fat, and pile them like sugar biscuits on a napkin. Garnish the dish prettily ?with parsley. They may be dipped in batter before frying, and served with melted butter, or with good brown sauce made with the gravy in which they were boiled. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for five or six persons. Celery, To Preserve througli the Winter. Gather the celery on a fine dxy day before it is injured by the frost, cut off the leaves and roots, and lay it in a dry airy place for a few days till it is partially dried; then remove it to a cool cellar, where it will be quite secure from frost, and pack it up with sand, putting layers of celery and of sand alternately. Celery Vinegar. Bruise an ounce of celery seed, put it into a quart bottle, which must be filled up with cold boiled vinegar, let it soak for three weeks, then strain, and bottle for use. A few drops are an agreeable addition to salads, &c. Probable cost, 6d. per pint. Celery, with White Sauce. Prepare the celery as for stewing, let it stew in salt and water for ten minutes, then drain it, and just cover it with a Kttle veal broth ; stew it again till tender. As the Jjroth boils away, add a little milk. When the celery is sufficiently cooked, arrange it on a hot dish, thicken the gravy wit-h a little flour and butter, season it lightly with salt and pepper, and pour it over the celery. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for two persons. Chalybeate Water, Artificial (for weakly constitutions that require iron). Those who cannot travel in search of fen-uginous springs may very easUy prepare a supply at home. Take half a pound of iron nails, wash them clean, and leave them exposed to the air and dew for a few hours in some place where they will take a little rust without beiag defiled by blacks, then put them iuto a jar capable of holding three or four pints ; fill it up with raia or river water, which has been poured high from one vessel into another, in order to aerate it. Let it stand thirty-six hours, when it will be ready for use. A wine-glassful ought to be taken twice a day, a quarter of an hour after meals. J Champagne Craam. Beat the yolks of five eggs very thoroughly, and add by degrees some finely-pounded white sugar, sufficient to make it stiff and firm. Then add a bottle of champagne, keep on stirring till it is all mixed. Last of all, put in a table-spoonful of brandy. Put the cream iato a glass jug, and serve it in champagne glasses. Time, a quarter of an hour. The probable cost will depend upon the price of the champagne. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Champagne Cup. Pour a bottle of champagne into a silver or glass cup, large enough to hold three quarts. Add to this two bottles of soda or seltzer water, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sixteen ounces of pounded ice. Stir it well with a silver spoon, and add, last of all, a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar. Be careful, when putting ia the sugar, that the wine does not overflow. A little cucumber-rind is by some persons considered an improvement. Time, a few minutes. Sufficient for a party of nine or ten. Champagne, Currant. Put four pounds of loaf sugar into a saucepan with six quarts of water ; skim it well, and boil it till it is a clear syrup ; pour it over a quart of white and a quart of red currants, which have been stripped from the stalks. Let it stand for one hom- and a half, then stir ia two table-spoonfuls of yeast. Let it remain for two days, stirring it frequentl)', pass it through a coarse bag into a small cask, and fine it with a quarter of an ounce of isinglass. Probable cost, currants, 4d. or 6d. per quart. Champagne, English. The yellow hairy gooseberries are the best for this purpose. They should be taken when they are fuUy gro vn, but before they are in the least ripe. Reject aU unsound or bruised fruit, and pick off the stalks and heads. Bruise a gallon of fruit so as to burst the berries without breaking the seeds. Be careful that the tub in which they are placed is scrupulously clean. Pouiover them a gallon of water, and let them stand iu a warm place for forty-eight hours, stirring them frequently, until all the juice and pulp arc separated from the rest of the fruit. Strain the liquid, pressing the pulp with a wooden spoon till it is quite dry. Pour it upon four pounds of coarse sugar, and let it stand three days more, still stii'ring it frequently, then strain it through a coarse bag into a cask, and mis with it a cupful of the best gin. Let it stand twelve months, then bottle it. It must be bottled in the spring. If it is not quite clear, it may bo fined with a little isinglass ; half an ounce is enough for four gallons. After the bungs ai-e CHA (116) CHE driven in tightly, a vent-hole should be made in the cask. Probable cost of gooseberries, Is. per gallon. Cliancelloi' Pudding. Butter rather tMckly a plain round mould, and ornament it with alternate rows of raisins and citron, making a star or some other device at the bottom of the mould. Put in it a layer of small spongecakes, sprinkle over them a few raisins and a little finely-chopped citron, then four or five ratafias, and pour over these a tea-spoonful of sherry, and repeat until the mould is nearly full. Take a pint of milk sweetened, and flavoured with lemon-rind, and mix with it the yolks of four eggs, -well beaten. Stir this a few minutes over the fire till it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil. \Vhen the custard is cool, pour it gradually over the cakes, &c., and let it stand tUl they are well soaked. Place a piece of welibuttered writing paper on the top, and tie the mould ia a cloth. Put it into boiUng water, and keep it boiling imtil sufficiently cooked. It should stand four or five minutes before it is turned out. Serve with wine sauce. Time to boQ, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 4d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Chantilly Soup. Boil one pint of young green peas, shelled, three spring onions, and a sprig of mint, until the peas are quite tender. Kemove the mint and the onions, press the peas through a sieve, and poui- three pints of nicelyflavoured boiling stock to them. Serve very hot. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Char. This fish is considered a great dehcacy, and is peculiar to the lakes of Cumberland; it is seldom offered for sale in the London market. The flesh is rather Hke that of trout. Wasli tlie char, dry it with a soft cloth, dust it over with flour, and broil it gently tdl it is ready. Send piquante sauce in a tureen to table with it. Time to broil, ten or fifteen minutes. One medium-sized char will Bufiice for two persons. Charlotte. A' Charlotte, or French fruit pudding, may be made of almost every kind of fruit, or of tv o or three kinds together. Take a plain round mould, butter it well, and line the bottom and sides completely with strips of the crumb of bread well buttered, making each piece fold over another, so as to make a complete wall of bread. Fill up the dish with any sort of stewed, fresh, or preserved fruit, taking care to have it sufficiently moist to soak the bread a little. Cover the top with slices of buttered bread. Put a plate and a weight over the pudding, and bake it in a quick oven. Turn it out in a shape, aad serve wdth sifted sugar and cream. Time to bake, half an hom\ Probable cost. Is. for a mould. Sufficient for four or five persons. Charlotte (a la Parisienne). Cut a Savoy, eponge, or rice cake into thin horizontal slices, spread some good jam on each slice, and restore the cake to its original shape. Cover it equally ?with an icing made by mLxing the lightlywhisked wliites of foiir eggs with five ounces of poimded loaf sugar. Sift a little more sugar over it, and diy the icing in a gentle oven. Pound cake may be iced in the same way, but, of course, if thus is used the jam should be omitted. The Charlotte must remain in a gentle oven till the icing is dry. Probable cost. Is. 8d. for a medium-sized cake. Sufficient for four ov five persons. Charlotte Prussienne. Put a little nicely-flavoured red jelly, not qxite an inch deep, at the bottom of a plain mould. Let it become stift'. Line the sides of the mould compactly with finger biscuits, and half fiU it with good jelly. Put it in the ice pot, and as it begius to freeze fill it up with an equal quantity of well-whipt cream. Serve it turned out of the mould. All sorts of variations may be made in the flavom'ing of this pudding. Time to freeze, half an hour. It had better remain in the ice until ready to serve. A medium-sized mould will suffice for six persons. Charlotte Busse. Line a plain round mould with finger biscuits, carefully put them close together, and form a round or star at the buttom of tlie mould. Take a pint of cream and whisk it well with a little sugar and half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little water. Mix with it half a pint of apple, apricot, strawberry, or any other jam, and set it to freeze. Cover it with a piece of Savoy cake the shape of the mould, and be careful to fit it exactly, so that when it is turned out it will not be likely to break. Let it remain in the ice imtil it is sufficiently frozen. Turn out and serve. If fruit is not at hand the cream may be flavoured with coffee, burnt almond, vanilla, ?S:c. Time to freeze, about an hour. Probable cost, 43. Sufficient for a quart mould. Charlotte Russe (another way). Line a plain round mould with French biscuit of dift'erent colours. Di\dde the mould into four compartments by placing inside pieces of biscuit the height of the mould perpendicularly, dividing the mould into four equal compartments. FiU each di\'ision with a dift'erant puree of fruit, cover it closely with biscuit, and bake in a good oven. Tm-n it out of the mould, and serve witli a httle custard. Time to bake, half an hour. The probable cost will depend upon the fruit witli which it is fiUed. Sufficient, one pint mould for four persons. Cheese, Bath Cream. Put a gallon of nev.' milk and two quarts of cold spring water into the cheese-tub, Avith sufficient rennet to turn it. ilore will be required than if milk alone were used. When the curd comes let the whey drip from it, then XDOur a little water over it and let it di-ip again. Fill the vat with it, place a weight upon it, and apply dry cloths for a day or two. Turn it out on a plate, cover it with another plate, and turn occasionally. It will be ready for use in a fortnight. Neither salt nor colom-ing are required. Cheese, Blue Mould, To Produce. The blue mould which is so much hked in cheese comes no one can tell how. It may be accelerated by brushing it while still soft with a hard brush dipped in v hey, and then rubbing it once a day with butter ; and repeating this CHE ( 117) CHE for three 'weelcs, or ?until the Hue mould begins to appear., Chees'e Can Apees. Cut a stale loaf into siiccbJ about a quarter of an ineh thick. Divide these into pieces about two inches long, and one i'ach wide, and fry them in hot butter or oil fiJl they are a bright golden colour. Spreach a i-ttle thin mustard on each of these pieces, lay over that some Cheshire or Pai-mesan cheetse, and put them in a quick oven till the cheeise is dissolved. Serve as hot as possible. TiuKi, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost, about Id. each piece. Allow two or thi-ee piec OS for each person. C!heeS9, Cayenne. Take a quarter of a pouiiid each of tlour, butter, and grated cheese. Mix them thoroughly, and add a pinch of salt and as much cayenne pepper as will cover a fourpenny piece. Porm these ingi'edients into a paste with a little water, roll this out to the thickiaess of half an inch, then cut it into pieces about tliree inches long and one inch wide. Bake these until they are lightly browned, and serve t,hem as hot as possible. Tune, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. SuiHcient for four persons. Cheese, Cheshire, Imitation. Put the mill: fresh from the cow, and without skimming it, into a tub, with as much rennet as will turn it bc'fore it has had time to get quite cold. AVlien the curd comes, draw it out with the fingers as gently as possible, as rough handling AvUl destroy its richness. Put half an ounce of salt v.'ith every pound of curd. Lay the curd little by little in the cheese vat, which should have holes in the lower pai-t of it, and put the vat into the press. When it has been there a couple of hours take it out, put it into a little warm water to harden the skin, then wipe it drj', cover it with a cloth, and return it to the press (plicing it in the vat, which has also been wiped dry) for seven or eight hours. Take it out again, smooth the edges, and before putting it in the L' t time prick some holes in it a couple of inches deep with a bodkin. AUow it to remain for two dajis, turning it at least twice a day ; take it oiit, put it on a clean board, turn and move frequently, and rub with a dry cloth. It will be ready in about eighteen months. At the end of the year after it is made make a hole in the middle and pom* in some good wine. Make up the hole with some of the cheese. These cheeses should be about eight inches in thickness, and will be found to be very mellow and good. Cheese, Cream. Take some thick cream and tie it in a wet cloth. Stir a tea-spoonful of salt into every pint of cream. Hang it in a cool airy place for six or seven days, then turn it into a clean cloth, which must bo put into a mouXl, and under a weight for about twentyfour hoiu-s longer, when it will be lit for use. It should be turned twice a day. Probable cost, cream, Is. 6d. per pint. Cheese, Crusts for,, or Pulled Broad.. Pull the crumb of a new loaf into small rough jrleces, place thom on a dish or tin plate, and put them into a quick oven till they are lightly browned and crisp. If the oven is not hot they may be browned before a clear fire in a Dutch oven. The crumb of half a quartern loaf wUl make enough for half a dozen persons. Cheese Fondue or Souffle. Mix a tea-spoonful of hour veiy smoothly 'ndth a breakfast-cupful of cream or new niilk, add a pinch of salt, and the same of pepper, and simmer the mixture gently over the fire, stirring it aU tlie time, till it is as thick as melted butter ; etir into it about eight ounces of finely-grated Pannesan or good Cheshire cheese. Turn it into a basin, and mix with it the yolks of four eggs well beaten. Whisk the whites to a soKd froth, and just before the souffie is baked, put them into it, and pour the mixture into a souflle dish or small round tin. It should be only half fiUed, as the fondue will rise veiy high. Pin a napkin round the dish in which it is baked, and serve it the moment it is taken out of the oven, as if it is allowed to fall, its beauty will be entirely gone. On this account it is better to have a metal cover over it strongly heated. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is 3d., if made with mill- . Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Cheese Fondue or Souffl (another way). Weigh in their shells the number of eggs to be used. These ought properly to be regulated by the nimiber of your guests. Break them into a saucepan, and put with them a third of their weight in cheese (Gruy re is the best, but good Cheshire answers admirably), and a sixth of that in butter. Season slightly with salt, and rather highly with pepper. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir it gently until the eggs are set, but on no account allow the mixture to boil. Serve immediately. Time, about five minutes for the eggs to set. Probable cost, lOd. for a fondue. Six eggs will suffiice for four persons. Cheese Fritters. Cheese which has become a little dry will answer for this purpose, though, of course, fresh cheese will be better. Put tlu-ee ounces of cheese in a mortar, with a dossert-spoonful of finely -minced ham, tliree dessert-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a piece of butter about the size of a small egg, two or three grains of cayenne, and the yolk of an egg well beaten. Pound these ingredients together until they are perfectly smooth, tlien form the paste into balls about the size of a walnut, flatten to a thickness of half an inch, dip them in batter, and fry them until lightly bro'mied, and drain. Place them on a napkin, and serve as hot as possible. Time to fry, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Sd. for this quantity. One or two wiU suffice for each person. Cheese Omelet. Whisk two eggs thoroughly. Allow a, pinch of salt, the same of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese to every two eggs. Mix completely. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into the frj-ing-pan. -When it is hot, pour in the mixture, and stir it with a wooden CHE ( 118) CHE spoon iintil it begins to set. Discontinue stirring, but shake the pan for a minute or so, then fold the omelet in two, and keep on shaking the pan, and, if it seems likely to stick, put a little piece of butter under it. "Wlien it is lightly browned, tui-n it on a hot dish. It must not be overdone. The inside ought to be quite juicy. If it is preferred, the cheese may be finely grated and strewed over the omelet after it i-s cooked, instead of mixed with it before. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 5d., mth two eggs. Sufficient for one person. Cheese, Ox Cheek. This is very much the same sort of thing as pork cheese, an ox head heing substituted for a pig's head. Take half an ox head, cleanse it thoroughly, remove the eye, and lay it in lukewarm water for some hours. Then put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it. Take oH the scum as it rises, and when the meat separates easily from the bones, take it out, remove the -bones, and chop the meat small, seasoning it with a table-spoonful of powdered thyme, the same of finely-minced parsley, a little gi-ated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Put it in a plain round mould, and place a weight on the top. Turn it out when cold, and cut it into thin slices. The hquor in which the head was boiled will make good gravy. Time to boil, about three hours. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. per poimd. Suitable for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Cheese Paste. This is made by pounding cheese in a mortar with a little butter, and adding wine, vinegar, pepper, and mustard according to taste, until it is of the consistency of stiff paste. It is then used as a relish with bread and butter or biscuits for luncheon, supper, &c. Cream cheese may be made into a paste by mixing it with a little flour and butter, and two or three eggs beaten with a little good cream. Time to prepare, about half an hour. Cheese Pastry, Ramequins of. Take some good puff paste. Any that is left after making pies, tarts, &c., will answer the purpose. Poll it out lightly, and sprinkle over it nicelyflavoured grated cheese. Fold 'he paste in three, and sprinkle every fold with the cheese. Cut little shapes out with an ordinary pastry cutter, brush them over with the beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven. Serve them as hot as possible. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. for half a pound of paste. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cheese Patties. Line some tartlet tins with good pufl; paste, and half fill them with a mixture made thus : Put a quarter of a pound of cheese, cut into small pieces, in a mortar with a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Pound it smoothly, and add, by degrees, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and a table-spoonful of sherry. Mix these ingTcdients thoroughly, and just before the patties are to be baked add the white of an egg beaten to a solid froth.' Ba-ke in a quick ovea. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Ud. each. Allow i person. Cheese, Potted. Put half cheese, Cheshire, Glo'ster, or Stil small pieces, into a marble morta ounce and a half of fresh butter, a tea sifted loaf sugar, a tea-spoonful of ma and a little cayenne, curry powder, powder. Pound these ingredients w 3I and as soon as the mixture ' b smooth paste, put it into a jar, with clarified butter, and tie it up A little sherry may be added or not. cheese is good spread on bread and and is more digestible than when e the usual way. Dry cheese may be i it. If very drj' a larger proportion c will be required. If the butter used and it is covered quite closely, it will for two or three weeks. Time, abr minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. i Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cheese Pudding. Put f cupful of milk into a saucepan, wi' c butter the size of a large egg. n imtil the butter is melted, ther er three-quarters of a pound of brea nd half a pound of grated cheese ; If . for twenty minutes, then add a pr and four eggs well beaten. Pour tl ato a well-buttered dish, and bake oven. This is a good way to finish up f crust of cheese. Time" to bake, tb i of an hour. Probable cost, exclusr ;ese, 9d. Sufficient for six persons. y).-pis ilnut in a .r a table . for a little ., and haK a the mixture Ke in a quick Time to bake. Cheese Pudding (. solve a piece of butter the cupful of new milk, and spoonful of bread-crumbs while, then add two eggF poimd of finely-grated c'' into a well-buttered mr oven. Sei-ve as hot as twenty minutes or n able cost, od., exclusive of the chef -lent for three or four persons. Cheese Pudd' ler way). Take half a pound of finely-g,- ;heese, and mix it with the weU-beaten yolks ot five eggs ; add two ounces of fresh butter beaten to a cream, and a cupful of new milk, and last of all, put in the wliite of an egg whisked to a solid froth. Line the edges of a dish with puff paste, well butter the inside, iDour in the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Before ser\ing, strew a little grated Parmesan cheese over the pudding. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cheese Eamequins. Mix two ounces of flour very smoothly with a cupful of wa-ter, and put it, with a little salt and pepper, and. a piece of butter about the size of an egg, into a saucepan. Let it boil for thi-co or four minutes, then stii' in two ounces of fine Cheshire cheese crumbled; let it bcil another minute, and add two eggs well beaten ; put them in gradualV, stu-ring all the time. Have read.y a well-oiled baking-tin, and drop CHE (119) CHE this mixture upon it, in lumps about the size of a small apple. Press them slightly iu the centre, hrush them over with egg, and put a tea-spoonful of Gruyere cheese in small pieces in the middle. Bake in a hot oven, and serve as hot as possible. If preferred Parmesan cheese may be used instead of Cheshire. Time to bake, about twelve minutes. Sufficient for foiu' or five ramequins. Probable coat, Is. Cheese Bameqmns (another way). Crmnble a small stale roU, and cover it with a breakfast-cupful of new milk boiling; let it soak for a quarter of an hour, then strain it, and put it in a mortar with four ounces of Parmesan cheese and four ounces of Cheshire cheese, both grated, fom: ounces of fresh butter, half a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a small quantity of poimded mace. Pound these ingredients well together with the yolks of four eggs. Have ready some small moulds. Just before they are ready to bake, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid froth. Little paper trays may be used to bake the ramequins in. Rather more than half fill them, and bake in a quick oven. Serve as hot as possible. Time to bake, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for twelve cakes. Ckeese Sandwich. Put three ounces of good rich cheese, cut into small pieces, into a mortar with an ounce of butter, atea-spoonful of made mustard, and two boned anchovies. Pound these ingredients to a smooth paste, spread this between two slices of brown bread and butter, and lay over it very thin slices of salt beef, ham, or tongue. Cut the sandA\-ichcs into pretty shapes, and arrange them on a napkin garnished with bunches of green parsley. Time, half an hour to prepare. Sufficient, allow one sandwich for each person. Probable cost, 2d. each. ~) Cheese Soup, without Meat. Grate very finely half a pound of rather diy Gruyere or any other hght-coloured cheese ; strew a layer of it at the bottom of the soup tureen, and over this place two or three very thin shccs of the stale crumb of bread. Repeat this un*-il all the cheese is used, when one-fourth of the depth of the tureen should be occupied- Put a piece of fresh butter about the size of an egg into a saucepan; let it melt, and stir into it, very smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour, and l t it remain on the fire, stirring it constantly, imtil it browns ; then throw in two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced onions. When they are browned, stir in gTadually a quart of water, let it boil, season with pepper and salt, and just before pouring it into the tureen, brown it with a little caramel {see Caramel). Let the soup stand a couple of minutes before the fire to soak the bread and cheese, and when that is done, serve at once. The contents of the tureen should not be disturbed till it appears on the table. Time, one hoirr. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Choose, Stewed. This Is a good way to use cheese which has become too dry to serve in the ordinarj- manner. Of course fresh cheese is to is preferred. Put two ounces of good double Glo'ster or Cheshire cheese, chopped small, into a saucepan, rvith half an ounce of butter, or more if the cheese is very dry. Add sufficient cream or new milk to cover it, and let it simmer gently, stii-ring it every now and then, imtil the cheese is dissolved. Take it from the fire for a minute or two, and mix in very gradually a well-beaten egg. Serve it on a hot dish, and stick httle three-cornered sippets of toasted bread in it. Serve as hot as possible. Tune to stew, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, if made with milk, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Cheese, Stewed (another way). Proceed exactly as above, but instead of covering the sliced cheese in the saucepan with new millf, cover it with ale, porter, or port, and flavour it with mixed mustard and cayenne. Serve as hot as possible. Time to stew the cheese, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the ale or wine. Sufficient for four persons. Cheese, Stilton. This cheese is considered by competent judges to be preferable to any other. It should be kept about twelve months in order to ripen it, and many persons endeavour to accelerate this bj' scooping out a little cheese in three or four places and pouring good port or old ale into it, then stopping the holes again with the cheese, and allowing it to remain two or three weeks. When the cheese is ready to serve, the rind should be cut from the top in a slice about a quarter of an inch in tliickness, to be used as a lid, and this should be replaced on the top of the cheese when it is sent from the table. It should be kept closely covered in a rather damp place. It should be served with a clean napkin neatly pinned round it. Probable cost, Is. 8d. to 2s. per poimd. VXJheese Straws. Mix two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter, two ounces of finely-grated breadcrumbs, and two ounces of flour into a paste. Flavour the mixture with cayenne, salt, and a very little pounded mace. Roll this out rather thinly, cut it into fingers about four inches long and half an inch wide, bake them for a few minutes in a qui .. oven, and serve cold. They should be piled on a dish in transverse rows. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Cheese, Toasted. Slice some good, rich cheese. Put it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, and when it is melted, stir into it some made mustard and pepper. A httle port or beer is sometimes added, and if the cheese is at all dry a little butter should be also used. Toast should be served with it. This dish is worth nothing at all unless it can be served quite hot. Toasted cheese is sometimes sent to table in little tins with boiUng water underneath, and tills is an excellent way to keep the toast hot. A few minutes will be sufficient to melt the cheese. Cheese, Toasted (another way). Cut some slices of the crmnb of bread about half an inch thick. Toast and butter them well on both CHE ( 120 ) CHE sides. Place on the toast a layer of cold roast tcef, flavoiu-ed with mustard and horse-radish. Over this spread some hot toasted cheese, thoroughly saturated with porter and flavoured with black pepper, salt, and shallot vinegar. This dish, which seems to our modem idea rather indigestible than otherwise, was a favourite supper -ttdth our ancestors. Time, a few minutes to toast the cheese. Suificient, a slice for each person. Probable cost, 2d. per slice, exclusive of the cold meat. Cheese, Toasted, or Welsh Rarebit. Out some slices of the crumb of bread about half an inch in thickness, and toast thorn lightly on both sides. Lay od them some slices of good, rich cheese, and put them in a cheesetoaster till the cheese is melted. Spread a little made mustard and pepper over thorn, and serve on very hot plates. It is most desirable to send this dish to table quite hot, as without this it is entirely worthless. Cheese, to Keep. Tieri a whole cheese is cut, and the consumption small, it generally becomes dry and loses its flavour after it has been used a little while. In order to prevent this, a small piece should be cut for use, and the remainder rubbed with butter, wrapped in a clean cloth, and placed in a covered jar, which should be kept in a cool and rather damp place. If these directions are attended to, a whole cheese might bo purchased at a time, and the goodness preserved until it is finished. This will be found to be much more economical than buying it in small quantities. Cheese which has become too dry to be presented at table maybe used for stewing, or grated for macaroni. The mould which gathers on cheese should be wiped off with a damp cloth. If any mites appear, a little brandy should be poured over the part. Cheese with Macaroni. Put a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni into a saucepan with a little salt, and suflicient boiling milk and water to cover it. Let it boil until it is quite tender but firm, then put a layer of it into a weU-buitered dish, and over that sprinkle some bread-crumbs and a mixture of Pamiesan and Cheshire cheese. Place three or four lumps of butter on it, and repeat until the dish is full, being careful to have bread-crumbs at the top. Pour a little butter warmed, but not oiled, over the crumbs, and brown the preparation before a clear fire, or with a salamander, but do not put it in the oven, or it will taste of oil. Serve vnth. salt and mustard. Eiband macaroni may be used if ._,preferred, and it will not require so much boiling. It may be boiled in water without the milk, and a little butter added instead. Time to boil the macaroni, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient fur four or five persons. Cheese with Macaroni (another way). Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in milk and water until it is tender but firm, then drain it and place it at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish. 'Wliisk well the yolks of Uvo eggs, and slir into them a breakfast-cupful of cream and half a cuptul of the hquid in which the macaroni was boiled. Stir this gently over the fire until it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil. Pour it on the macaroni, and sprinkle over the top three table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. Brown the mixture before a clear fire, or with a salamander, and serve. Time to boil the macaroni, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cheese with Macaroni (another way). Drop a quarter of a pound of macaroni in some boiling milk and water, and let it simmer gently until it is quite tender but firm. Put four ounces of grated cheese in a breakfastcupful of boiled cream or new milk, and place the mixture in a saucepan with a blade of mace, three or fom* grains of cayenne, a piece of butter, and a little salt. The cheese must be quite free from rind, and should be stirred constantly until it is quite melted, and we would reconmiend a mixture of cheeses, as Parmesan, if used by itself, soon gets liimpy. When it is dissolved, add the boiled macaroni to it, first putting it in a sieve for two or three minutes to drain. Let it simmer for a few minutes longer, then put it into a dish, strew over it some finely-grated bread-crumbs, and brown in a hot oven, or with a salamander. Good white sauce may be substituted for the cream. Time, one hour and a half to boil the macaroni. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Cheesecakes. Beat the j oEis of four and the whites of two eggs separately ; the whites must be beaten to. a solid froth. Hub the rind of a lemon upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar ; then pound it, and mix it with the eggs. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and the juice of two lemons. "When these are well beaten together, put the mixtm-e into a large jar, which should be placed in a pan of boiling water on the fire. Stir it constantly until it thickens. Line some tartlet tins with a good light crust, and fill them three parts with the mixture. When nearly baked, take them out of the oven for a minute, brush them over with wliite of egg, and sift a little pounded sugar over them, and put tliem back into the oven to brown. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, l d. each. Suflicient for two dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Almond. Blanch and pound a quaiter of a pound of sweet ahnonda and four or five bitter ones ; add a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, the thin rind of a lemon minced as finely as possible, the juice of half a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sherry or brandy. Line tai-tlet tins with good puft' paste, and just before filling them, add the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for two dozen cheesecakes {see Almond Cheesecakes). Cheesecakes, Apple. Grate half a pound of apples, weighed after they are pared and cored, add the rind of two lemons grated, half a pound of melted butter, half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, and a quarter of a small nutmeg grated. Line the tartlet tins, three parts fill thorn with the mixture, and bake in a GOOD & BAD MEAT. , Tlihs ofBeeC Prm; . Ouality \ 3, 1 eq if Widton. Prirm Qaa]ji .\5, Champ Qwp.Pnme Qu iM' Do I y fTi - InferU'r ? \B Do. In encr ? CHE ( 121 ) CHE quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, '2d. each. Sufficient for three dozen cheesecakes {see Apple Cheesecakes) . Cheesecakes, Bread. Pour abreakfastcupful of boiling milk over eight ounces of finely-grated broad-crumbs, and when they have soaked a little while, beat them up with throe ounces of butter, melted. When quite cold, add three ?unces of finely-sifted sugar, three ounces of currants, stoned and dried, and half a small nutmeg grated. Last of all add the yolks of four and the whites of three eggs, beaten with a table-spoonful of brandy. Line the tartlet tins with a good light crust. Kather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, I d. each. iSuflicient for three dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Home-made. Put four well-beaten eggs into a saucepan containing a pint of boiling milk, and let it remain on the fire until it curdles. Pour off the whey, and put the curd on an inverted sieve to drain. WHien it is quite dry, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, six ounces of carefully -washed currants, a jiiece of butter about the size of an egg, melted, two spoonfuls of rose-water or cream, and half a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon. Line the tartlet tins with good puff" paste, three parts fill them -with the mi.xture, and bake them in a good oven. If a little vinegar or lemonjuice is mixed with pulk, then placed on the tire, it will curdle. Time to bake, twenty miniites. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient for two dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Home-made (another wa}'). Mi.x three heaped table - spoonfuls of ground rice with six of good milk till the paste is quite smooth, then pour on it gradually, stirring all the time, a pint of boiling milk. Put it on the fire, and let it simmer till it thickens, then add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of ground cinnamon, a little grated lemon-rind, and three ounces of butter. Mix these well together, pour the mixture into a basin, and when cool, stir in four eggs beaten up with a table-spoonful of brandy. Line the tartlet tins with a good light crust, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and btike them in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Lemon. Pub the peel of two large lemons with half a pound of loaf sugar. "Whisk six eggs thoroughly, add the sugar pounded, and the juice of one lemon. Melt half a pound of butter in a saucepan, with five tablo-spoonfuls of cream, add the other ingredients, and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken. "Wlien cold, fill the tartlet tins, previously lined with good puff paste, a little more than half full, and bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Suthcient for four dozen clicesecakes. Cheesecakes, Orange. Proceed in the same way as for Lemon Cheesecakes, sub.stituting orange-rind and orange-juice for lemon-rind and lemon -juice. Time to bake, twenty minutes. I'robable cost, 2d. each! Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Potato. Grate the thin rind of two lemons, then pound them well with two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and three ounces of potato which has been boiled until it has become floury. Stir a couple of ounces of clarified butter in with the mixture, and when smooth add the yolks of two and the white of one egg. Line the tartlet tins with a light crust, lather more than half fill them, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient for a dozen and a haH cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Savoury, Mix thoroughly a pint of well-drained curd, three ounces of butter, and the yolks of six, and the whites of two eggs well beaten. liub them through a coarse sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, and a little salt and pepper. If preferred, the curd may be omitted, and a little cream substituted. Of course, in that case, there would be no necessity to rub the mixture through a sieve. Line some tartlet tins with good crust, fill them three-parts with the mixture, and bake in a good oven for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, l d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Winter. A curd for cheesecakes may be made by mixing as much grated biscuit with fi ?e eggs and a pint of cream as will make a light l)atter ; sugar and flavouring should be added. To malce the paste, mix a pound of flour with a little milk, add a pinch of salt, roll into it three-quarters of a pound of butter, and stiffen it with two eggs. jMake up in the usual way. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probal)le cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheltenham Pudding. Shied six ounces of suet very finely, add si.x ounces of flour, a i inch of salt, and a heaped tea-spoonful of baking powder, two ounces of bread-crumbs, three ounces of raisins, three ounces of curiants, two table-sjjoonf uls of sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix these ingredients well together, and stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs and sufficient new milk to make it into a stiff smooth batter. Pour it into a buttered dish and bake in a good oven. Turn it out when sufficiently cooked, and serve with brandied sauce. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, lOd. Cherokee, or Store Sauce. Put a pint of the best vinegar into a large bottle with half an ounce of cayenne, tw? cloves of garlic finely minced, two table-spoonfuls of soy, and four of walnut ketchup. Let these soak for a month, then strain the liquid and put it into small bottles, which must be kept closely corked. Cherries, Candied. Choose fine, sound, ripe cherries, take off the stalks, and wipe them with a soft cloth, then pour over them some syrup boiled ready to candy. Move them gently about, and, when cold, put them in a cool oven for half an hour to dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Half + CHE ( 122 ) CHE pound of cherries, garnished with leaves, will make a small dish. Cherries, Candied, with Leaves and Stalks. Choose sound, ripe cherries, wipe tliem witli a soft cloth, and leave the stalk and two or three leaves on them. Boil some good vinegar, and dip each little branch, but not the fruit, into it when boiling ; then take it out and stick it into a piece of cardboard A\dth holes made in it, so that it shall dry equally. Boil a poimd of sugar with half a pint of water, remove the scmn, and dip e;ich branch in, and let it remain there for one minute, then dry it as before. Boil the sugar and water to the point of candying, pour it over the cherries, &c., move them about to insure their being equally covered with the sugar, place them once more in the cardboard, and ch-y them in a cool oven. They will be found useful for garnishing sweet djshes, and for dessert. Time, about an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, Compote of. Choose large, ripe, hght-coloured cherries, wipe them, and leave on them about an inch of stalk, making aU uniform. Put half a pound of sugar into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of water, and let it boil for ten minutes, then put into it a pound and a half of the cherries, and simmer them for three minutes. Dish them with the stalks uppermost. A table-spoonful of brandy may be added to the syrup. Probable cost of.cheiTies, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a large dish. Cherries, Compote of (another way). Take off the stems from Kentish or Morella i cherries, ilako a syrup with hve ounces of ! sugar and half a pint of water for the former, \ but allow another ounce of sugar for the extra acidity of the Morellas. Stew one pound of the fruit in the syi'up for twenty minutes ; they may be stoned or not. When the ilorellas are very ripe, they may be stewed only ten minutes, and will then be excellent. Time : ten minutes to boil sugar ; eight to ten minutes Morellas. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Morella cherries are generally rather more expensive. Cherries, Dried. Stone the chen-ies carefully without spoiling the fruit. This may be done by pusliing the stones through the end with a bodlrin or silver skewer. Put them into j a preserving-pan, and strew amongst them j finely-sifted sugar, allowing eight ounces of j sugar to everj' pound of fruit. Simmer for } ten minutes, then pour them into a bowl, and j leave them imtil next day, when they must j be again simmered for ten minutes ; and this j process must be repeated for three days. Drain : well, put them on a sieve or wire tray, so that j they do not touch each other, and place this in j an oven sufficiently cool to dry vithout baking them. They must be turned about every now and then that they may be equally dried. _ If the oven is too hot, their coleur will be spoilt. 'When dried, keep them in tin boxes with writing-paper between each layer. Kentish chcrricii are best for this purpose. They will be found useful for garnislaing dishes, or for dessert. Probable cost of the cherries, 3d. to 6d. i er pound. Cherries, Dried, without Sugar. The Kentish cherries are the best for this pui-pose. They should be wiped carefully with a soft dry cloth, to free them from dust, &c., and the stalks cut into even lengths, then put into a cool oven or in the sun until thoroughly dried. If the latter plan is adopted, the dishes on which they are placed should be changed every day. The stalks should be put upwards, and the bruised or decayed fruit removed. When di-y, they should be "tied in bunches, and kept in a dry place ; and many per. ons consider them more refreshing and agreeable than when dried with sugar, the acidity of the fruit remaining to a greater degree. In the winter time they may bo prepared for dessert in the same way as Normandj' pippins. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, Frosted. Choose large, ripe, sound cherries. Wipe them with a chy soft cloth, and dip them in a liquid made of the whites of two eggs which have been whisked to a firm froth and mixed with a quarter of a pint of spring water. As the cherries are taken out of the egg, drain them and I'oll them one by one in finely-sifted sugar. Put some clean writing paper on an inverted sieve, jjut them on this so that they do not touch one another, and let them dry till wanted. Time, six or eight hours to dry the fruit. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a small dessert-dish. Cherries, Kentish, Compote of. Put a quarter of a poinid of loaf sugar into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of water, and boil it for tea minutes. Put in half a pound of Kentish cherries, with about an inch of the stalks left on ; let them simmer gently for five minutes. Drain them, and put them into a com2)ote dish with the stalks iip wards. Boil the syrup five minutes longer ; when it is cool, pour it over the cherries. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of chemes, from 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient fsr a small dish. Cherries, Morella, Brandied. The fruit should be freshly gathered, and the largest and best selected. Let each cherry have about an inch of stem left on. Put them into quart bottles with wide necks, and put four ounces of pounded candy-sugar (the brown is the best) into each bottle. Pour in sufficient best French brandy to fill the bottles, and add a few eherry or apricot kernels, or a small portion of cinnamon, if liked. Time, to infuse, one month. Probable cost, 4s. to 68. per bottle. Cherries, Morella, To Preserve. Choose sound, ripe ISIorella cherries, and allow one pound and a quarter of sugar, and half a cupful of red or white 'ciurrant juice for every poifnd of cherries. Pick and stone the ciierries, or, if preferred, merely prick each one with a needle. Put the sugar and syrup into a preserving-pan, and let it boil for ten minutes. Throw in the cherries, and simmer them gently until they look bright and clear. Turn the fruit into jars. Cover with oiled ijapers, and tissue paper dipped in strong gum. Time to boil, CHE ( 123 ) CHE about haK an hour. Probable cost of cherries, lOd. per pound. Cherries Preserved in Syrup. Choose light, sound, ripe cherries. Kemove the ston-es without injuiiug the friiit, which may be done by drawing- them out with the stalk, or pushing them out at one end with a bodkin or quill. Ulow a pint and a half of water and a pound of sugar for eveiy pound of fruit, weighcel after it has been stoned. Put the sugar and water into a preserving-pan, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour, skimming it carefully ; then throw in the fruit, and let it boil for another quarter of an hour. Poirr it with the syrup into a large jar, and let it remain untU ne.Yt day, when the cherries must be put into a sieve to drain, and a pint of white currant j uice (xce Currant Juice) allowed for every foui' j)ounds of cherries. The juice and the syrup must be boiled together fifteen minutes, when the cherries may be jjut with them and boUed again for four or five minutes. Put the cherries into jars, cover them with the syrup, lay brandy papers on the top, and tie them down closely. It will be more economical in small famihes to put the preserve into onepound pets, as there is an amount of evaporation in larger jars, which makes a considerable difference in the expense. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, To Bottle. Have ready some wide-mouthed bottles, such as are gener' ally used for bottUng fruit, and ascertain that they ai-e quite di-y. Cut the stalks from the cherries do not pull them out put the fruit into the bottles, shake them down, and i ut tM'o table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted loaf sugar at the top of every bottle. Cork them closely, and tie them down ; put them into a large pan of cold water, bring it to a boil, let it stand on the hob for five minutes, then lift the boiler from the fire, and let the bottles remain in it until the water is cold. The juice of the fruit ought to cover it. The corks must be looked after when the fruit has been sailded, and re i ought not to have been injured in the stoning, I and let them boil for ten minutes, stii-ring them only just enough to keep them from burning, as it is very desirable not to break them. Pour all together into a bowl, and let it remain until next day, then drain the fruit, boil the syrup with eight ounces more sugar, and hoil the cherries in it again for another ten minutes. Put the preserve in jars, and cover closely, as usual. In the preparation of cherries for preserving, it is necessary that the greatest care should be observed. The slightest deviation from the instructions given here wiU make the cherries unpalatable. Cherries, To Preserve (another way). Choose sound, ripe cherries, remove the stones, and weigh out as much sugar as there is fruit. Put some of the sugar at the bottom of the preserving-pan, place a layer of cheiTies on it, and repeat this until the pan is nearly three-parts full. Put the pan on the fire, and add a cupful of red currant juice, and a quarter of a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Boil quickly, stirring the fruit no more than is necessary to prevent it sticking to the bottom of the pan. \Mien the syrup is tliick, pom- the jam into smaU jars, and cover it closely with gummed tissue paper. Time to boU, about half an hour. Piobable cost of the cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherry Brandy (to be made in July or August). The Morclla cherry is generally used for this purpose, on account of its peculiar acidity. It ripens later than other cherries, and is more expensive. It is seldom used as a dessert fruit ; nevertheless, if allowed to hang mitil fully ripe, it is very refreshing and agreeable to many palates. The cherries for brandy sheuld be gathered in dry weather, and must be used when fresh. They ought not to be over lipe. Wipe each one with a soft cloth, and cut the stalks, leaving- them about half an inch in length. A little more than half fill wide-necked bottles such as are used for bottUng- fruit. Allow three ounces of pounded fitted if necessary. Yhen the fruit comes to i sugar with each pound of fruit, which must _. be used, the juice ought to be strained off, and jjkced in with it. Fill the bottles with the best boiled with a Httle sugar, and, when cold, put I French brandy. Do not make the mistake of into the tarts instead of water. Time, about supposing that the fruit and sugar will make an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. j bad spirit pass for good. Cork the bottles seper pound. wirely, and seal over the top. The cherries Cherries, To Pickle.- Choose sound, I " y be used in a month, but will be better in not over-ripe Kentish cherries, wipe them care- I " Three or four cloves put m the bottle are fully, and put them into jars, leaving about an ! ' Y Y considered an miprovement. Probable ? " " ? I cost of Morella cherries, lOd. to Is. per pound. I Cherry Brandy (another way). Choose sound, fresh jMorella cherries, wipe them, and cut oft' the stalks to within half an inch, prick inch of their stalks. Boil sufficient French vinegar to cover them, and boil one pound of sugar and a few grains of cayenne with every quart of vinegar. When cold, add a few drops of cochineal, and cover the cherries. Tie them dovm closely. They will be ready for use in three or four weeks. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, To Preserve. Take two poimds of sound, ripe Kentish chen-ies, weighed after they have been picked and stoned. Put a pound of sifted sugar into the preserving each cherry with a needle, half fill a widenecked bottle with them, and to eaoh bottle put a dozen scraped bitter almonds and a quarter of a poimd of white sugar cjindy crushed small. Fill with best French brandy, cork securely, and seal over the top. The brandy will be better if kept for a few months. Probable cost of cherries, lOd. to Is. per pound. a, uuiiu (ji siiieu sugar lulo ine preserving- v \',a.n with half a pint of red currant juice, or, if Cherry Brandy (another way). Put this is not at hand, water, and let it boil for six pounds of black clien-ies, six pounds of five minutes. Throw in the cherries, which SloreUas, and two pounds of strawberries in a CHE ( 124 ) CHE cask. Bruise them slightly with a stick, then add three pounds of sugar, twelve cloves, haK an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and two nutmegs grated, with a quarter of the kernels of the cherry-stones, and a handful of mint and bahn. Pour over these six quarts of hrandy or gin. Let the cask remain open for tsn days, then close it, and in two months it will he fit for use. Probable cost, Morella cherries, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for one gallon and a half of cherry brandy. Cherry Cheese. Take some sound, ripe Kentish cherries stoned or not as preferred; put them into a stone jar, cover it closely, and place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. When the cherries are sufficiently tender, take them from the fire, skin and stone them, and add half a pound of finely-sifted sugar to every pound of fruit. Add a few of the kernels blanched. Put the mixture into a preserving-pan, and boil it gently stirring it all the time, until the fruit is so di-y that it -will not adhere to the finger when touched, and is quite clear. Press it quickly into shallow jars wlrich have been damped with brandy. Cover closely, ynd keep in a dry place. Time, two houi"s. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. ' Cherry Drink. Wash and stone lialf a pQund of sound ripe cherries, bruise and jjour over them a pint of boUing water, and add a piece of thin lemon-rind, or, if preferred, a few of the kernels bruised. Let them soak foi' four or five hours, then strain and sweeten the liquid with two ounces of sifted loaf sugar, and, if liked, add a dessert-spoonful of brandy. This is a refreshing beverage in hot weather. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for one person. Cherry Jam. Choose sound, ripe Kentish cherries, remove the stones, and boil the kernels in a little water to draw out the flavour ; this will impart a very agreeable flavoui-to the jam. Weigh the fruit, after stoning it, and allow one pound of sifted sugar to one poimd of fruit. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan with a cupful of the water in which the kernels were boiled to each two pounds of fruit, making up the measure vith water, or rod currant juice. Boil to a syrup, then add the fruit and boil it A-ery quickly until it is on the point of jellying. Pour it into jars, cover it with brandied jiaper, and put over this paper dipped in gum. Time to boil the sugar and water or juice to a sjTup, about ten minutes ; the syrup and fruit to the point of jellying, about forty minutes. Probable cost, 8(1. or 9d. per pound. Cherry Paste. CheiTy paste is made in much the same way as cherry cheese, except that the fruit is boiled nearly dry before the sugar is added, and then that the weight of the pulp is taken in sugar, and boiled witli it until the fruit leaves the pan entu'oly, and adheres to the sjwon. It is then pressed into movdds, and kept hke other dried fruits. It should not be covered up until it is quite dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per lb. Cherry Pie. Black cherries are generally considered best for pies. Wash and pick the fruit, and place it in a pie-dish, piling it high in the middle ; strew a little sugar over it, and cover it with a good light crust. Bake in a good oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. A pie made with two pounds of fruit will be sufficient for foui- or five persons. Cherry Pudding, Baked. Wash and stone the cherries, put a layer of them at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish, and strew over this a little sifted sugar and a small quantity of finely-chopped lemon-rind ; lay over these some thin bread and butter, and repeat tlie layers until the dish is full, finishing \\dth cherries strcAA-n over with sugar ; pour a large cupful of water over the whole, and bake in a good oven. This pudding may be made with dried or preserved cherries, when, instead ?f water, a little custard may be used to moisten the bread. The kernels of the cherries, too, may be blanched and sliced, and used instead of lemon-rind. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. A pudding made with two pounds of cherries will serve for five or six persons. Cherry Pudding, Boiled. Make some good suet crust, line a plain, round buttered basin with it, leaving a little over the rim ; fill it with cherries, washed and picked, add a little sugar and some finely-chopped lemon-rind, wet the edges of the paste, lay a cover over the pudding, and press the edges closely round. Tie a floured cloth over the pudding, and plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling, or the pudding will become heavy. Before turning it out, dip the basin into cold water for a moment. Servo with sifted sugar. A small pudding will require about two hoiu-s to boil. If the cherries are not fully ripe, a longer time must be allowed. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per poimd. Sufficient for foxxr or five persons. Cherry Sauoe. Take one pound of sound, ripe cherries, wash and stone them. Blanch the kernels, and put them in a saucepan, with just enough water to cover them, and let them simmer gently until the flavour is thoroughly extracted Put the cherries into a saucepan with a pint of water, a glass of port, four cloves, a shco of bread toasted, and a little sugar. Let these stew gently until the fruit is quite soft, then press the whole through a sieve, add the liquid from the kernels, boil up once more, and serve. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Cherry Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. Pick and stone a poimd of cherries, and pound the kernels to a paste. Mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, and pour over it half a pint of boiling milk. Boil it for two or three minutes, then stir into it the cherries and the kernels, a teaspoonful of minced lemon-rind, half a nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a wineglassful of port. Let these simmer gently until the cherries are quite cooked; press them through a coarse sieve, boil the sauce again for two or three minutes, and serve it very hot. Good CHE ( 12 ) CHE melted butter may be substituted for the arrowroot, if preferred, and \s'heii iveA. cheri-ies are not in season, cherry jam may be used. The sauce ought to be as thick as custard and the colour of the cherries. It is very nice for boiled or baked egg puddings. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. This quantity vill suthce for a moderate-sized pudding. Cherry Soup, German. In German bills of fare sweet soups arc frequent, and are liked by some persons very much. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then ini.x with it a table- spoonful of flour, and stir smoothly until it is lightly lirowned. Add gi;adually two pints of water, a pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. After straining, add a little port, half a tea-spoonful of the kernels blanched and bruised, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a tiu-een over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. _ Cherry Tart. Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with a good short crust. FiU it with cherries, picked and washed, put a cup or small jelly pot in the middle of the dish, strew a little sugar over, and a few red currants if they can be got, as they will considerably improve the flavour of the tart. Cover the dish with a cinist, and ornament the edges. Strew some sifted sugar over the top of it, or cover it with sugar icing. Ikke in a good oven. Time to bake, thirty to forty minutes Probable cost of a medium-sized tart, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cherry-water Ice. Boil a pound of sugar vnth a pint and a half of water, remove the scum as it rises; when it is clear, pour it into a large jug containing one pound of Kentish chen-ies bruised, a few of the kernels, blanched, and pounded in a mortar, the juice of two lemons, and a glass of noyeau. Let these soak : strain, add a few drops of cochineal, and freeze. Time to freeze, two houi-s. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity, exclusive of the noyeau. Sufficient for one quart of ice. Cherry- water Ice (another way). Pick the stalks from one pound of ripe cheiries, and crush them in a mortar to make the juice flow, adding a pint of clarified sugar and half a pint of water. Flavom- with noyeau or vanilla, and squeeze in the juice of two lemons; add a few drops of cochineal if required, strain the liquid, and freeze. The kernels should be pounded with the fruit. Probable cost. Is. Sufl cient for one quart of ice. CherviL Cherv-il is fit for drj-ing in May, June, and July. Its leaves are tender and. delicious, combining the flavour of parsley and fennel, though more aromatic than either. It may be used in salads, and for sauces, and also be prepared in the same way as parsley. It must not be forgotten that the root is poisonous. Cheshire Cream. Put the thin rind of a small lemou into a breakfast-cupful of thick cream. Let it remain for an horn- or more, then take it out, and add a small tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a glass of sherry. Wliisk these thoroughly, and place the froth, as it is made, on a sieve to drain, and let it remain five or six hours. When ready to serve, put it on a glass dish, with a border of macaroons or cocoa-nut biscuits round it. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusi+ve of the sherry. Sufficient for a small supperdish. Chester Buns. Eubtwooimces of butter into one pound of fine flour, add a pinch of salt and one table-spoonful of sugar. Stii' into these an egg, a table-spoonful of yeast, and a breakfast-cupful of lukewai-m milk. Knead well, and put the bowl which contains the dough before the fire to rise, covering it with a cloth. Vhcn it has sufficiently risen, divide it into six or eight parts, shape into rounds, place them on a buttered tin, and let them rise five minutes more, then bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, for this quantit}', Gd. Sufficient for six or eight buns. Chester Pudding. \ 'Tiisk the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar, half a dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, the finely-minced rind and juice of half a lemon, and a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Stii' these over a moderate fire for a few minutes, then pour the mixture into a small buttered pie-dish lined with good i uif paste. Put it into the oven, and, while it is baking, whisk the unused whites of the eggs to a firm froth. When the pudding is very nearly ready, cover it with the froth, sift sugar thickly over it, and stiffen it a few minutes in the oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes; five minutes to set the white of egg. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. Chestnut Forcemeat, for Roast FowL Poast and peel a dozen large chestnuts ; boil them for about twenty minutes in some strong veal gravy, drain, and, when cold, l ut them into a mortar blanched and minced with the liver of the fowl, a tea-spoonful of grated ham, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of chopped onions, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, three grains of cayenne, two table-spoonfuls of In-ead-crumbs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and the yolks of two eggs. Pound the diy ingredients in a mortar, and moisten them with the butter and eggs. This forcemeat is excellent for a large fowl. Time to prepare, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 2d. or 3d. per pint. This quantity will serve for one large fowl. Chestnut Pudding. Take some chestnuts, and make a little incision in the skin of each one, throw them into boiling water, and let them remain until tender. Ecmovc the shells and skins, dry them in the oven, and afterwards pound them to powder. Mix half a pound of this powder with si.x ounces of butter beaten to a cream, two table-spoonfuls of sifted CHE ( 126) CHE sugar, two or three dro] s of the essence of vanilla, a breakfast-cupful of milk, and six wellbeaten eggs. Stir these well together, then l our the mixture into a well-buttered mould, place a piece of buttered writing paper over the top, and steam for an hour and a half, or, if preferred, bake in a good oven. Serve with wine sauce. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Chestnut Sauce, Brown. Prepare the chestnuts as in the following recipe, but instead of adding cream or milk to the paste, mix them w ith a little good brown grav}', and season the sauce rather highly. Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufficient for one roast fowl. Chestnut Sauce, White. Roast a dozen chestnuts until quite tender, then remove the brown rind and the skin under it, and jjut them into a mortar with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of popper, half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a piece ef butter about the size of a walnut. Pound these together to a smooth paste, which must be put into a saucepan, and mixed with a breakfast-cupful of milk or cream ; stir the liquid till it boils. This sauce is excellent for boiled fowls. Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour- and a half. Probable co.st, 2d. or 3d. per pint, if made with ndlk. Sufficient for one fowl. Chestnut Soup. Take off the outer rind from fifty chestnuts, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. Place them on the fire, and when the water is just upon the point of boiling, take them out and remove the under skin. Stew them in sufficient stock to cover them until quite tender ; put them in a mortar, and pound them to a paste, reserving a dozen to be placed whole in the soup just before it is dished. Pound -svith the paste two tablespoonfuls of bread-crunibs, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. j\Iix with it very gradually the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled, if its sweetness is not objected to, allowing a quart of the mixture and a pint of milk to every quart of stock. Boil all together once more, with the chestnuts which were reserved, and if the soup is too thick, add a little more stock. Before serving, place some fried sippets in the tureen. The stock maj' be either made from meat or from vegetables alone. Time, two and a half hours. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, lOd. per quart. Chestnuts, Compote of. Take thirty large chestnuts, peel oft' the outer brown skin, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. Wlien the water is just on the point of boiling, take them off, remove the second skin, and be careful not to break the chestnuts. Make a syrup with a breakfast-cupful of water and a quarter of a pound of sugar, adding a glass of sherry and the rind of half an orange or a lemon cut verj- thin. Put the chestnuts into this, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Strain the syrup over the chestnuts, and serve hot. Sift a little sugar over them. Time, about forty minutes. Probable cost, chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. The above quantity will make a modei-ate-sized dish. Chestnuts, Pur e of. Take fifty large chestnuts those are the best which have no division, and, when the skin is removed, are entire. Take off the outer bro'vvTi skin, and boil the chestnuts until the inner skin will come off easily, when it also must bo removed. Having done this, put the chestnuts into a saucepan with sufficient white stock to cover them, and boil them gently until they are quite soft, when they must be pressed, while hot, through a -wire sieve. The pulp must then be put into a stewpan, wath a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, a cupful of cream or new milk, half a cupful of the stock in wliich they were simmered, and a little siilt, pepper, and sugar. Stii- this over the fire until quite hot, when it may be placed in the middle of a dish of cutlets. Time, two hours. Probable cost of chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient for four or five persons. Chestnuts, Roasted for Dessert. Cut a little piece of the outer shell ott" each chestnut ; this is to prevent them bursting when hot. Boil them for about ten minutes ; do not allow them to cool, but put them into a tin in the oven, or into a Dutch oven before the fire, and let them remain until they are quite soft. Fold them in a napkin, and serve quits hot. Salt should be eaten with them. Time to bake, about ten minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, one pint for fom or five persons. Chestnuts, Stewed (to be served as a vegetable). Remove the outer rind from sound chestnuts, then fry them in a little butter, when the inner skin may easily be freed from them. Put them into a saucepan with some good stock, and boil them until they are tender but unbroken. The chestnuts should be removed from the gravj as soon as they are cooked, and served in a tureen, with a little white sauce poured over them. Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, one quart for a tureenful. Chetney, or Chutnee Sauce. This is an Indian preparation, and a dozen different recipes might *lDe given for it. It cannot however be prepared in England to resemble exactly that which is made in the East, as, of course the fresh fruits requisite for it cannot be obtained. It may be bought at the Italian warehouses ; but, until we can be quite secure from adulteration, picldes and store sauces are better made at home. Some sort of acid fruit is indispensible for it. Mangoes are used in India, but hero green gooseberries, tomatoes, and sour apples must be used. Put into a marble mortar four ounces of salt, four ounces of raisins, stoned and minced very finely, three ounces of onions, and three ounces of garlic, also finely minced, two ounces of mustard-seed well bruised, and half an ounce of cayenne pepper. Pound these well, then mix with them very gradually fourteen ounces of sour apples, weighed after they have been pared and cored, and boiled with one pint of strong brown vinegar and four ounces of sugar. Mix the CHI ( 127) CHI ingi-edients thoroughly, bottle the preparation, aud cork tightly. The longer this sauce is kept the Letter it will be. Time to prepare, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 3d. per pint. It is used like mustard with cold meat, and for sauces and gravies. Chichester Pudding. Rub the rind of half a lemon upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, powder this, and mix it with a crumbled roll, and a quarter of a pound of butter Add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice. After mixing the ingredients thoroughly, add the whites of two of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Stir the mixture over the fire to a thin batter, then pomit into a well-buttered jjie-dish, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three perssns. Chicken, The. Those chickens are the best which have small bones, short legs, and clean, white-looking flesh. Chickens with white legs should be boiled, those with black legs roasted. The flesh ef chickens is generally considered more digestible than any other animal food. These birds are cheapest in November. Spring chickens are to be obtained in April. It is better to kill them one or two days before they are dressed. Chickens are always better for being singed, as it gives firmness to the flesh. Chicken (a la Creci). Cut half a pound of bacon into dice, and fry these lightly, then put them into a saucepan, and with them twelve shallots, twelve button mushreoms, two large carrots cut into pieces the size and shape of a walnut, and twelve chestnuts roasted and peeled. Let these be already dressed when they are put into the saucepan. Add the flesh of a chicken cut into fillets, cover it with good brown gravy, and stew it gently for a quarter of an hour, when a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a blade of mace pounded, and a glass of Madeira, or any white wine, may be added. Simmer for five minutes longer, take out the chicken, and place it on a dish ; if necessary, thicken the gravy a little, then pour it over the meat. Place the chestnuts, carrots, &c., round it, together with a few mushrooms. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Chicken (a I'Estragon). Put some tarragon leaves in hot water, dry them, and cho-p them small; make a forcemeat by mincing the chicken's liver, and mixing with it an equal (luantity of bacon, a little of the chopped tarragon, some niitmcg, salt, and pepper ; stufl: the bird v.n.ih this, cover it with slices of bacon, tie over it some sheets of buttered paper, and roast it before a clear fire. Boil some nicelyflavoiired stock with the remainder of the tan-agon leaves, thicken it with a little bro\\n thickening, or with flour and butter, and add salt, pepper, and a little lemon- juice. Send this to table with the chicken. Time to roast, half an hoiu- for a small chicken. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Chicken (a la Marengo). Cut a fine chicken into neat joints, season it with salt and cayenne, and brown it lightly in about two ounces of hot butter or lard. Two good slices of bacon should be put into the frying-pan with it. Drain the meat from the fat, and mix with the latter a table-spoonful of flom-, and, very gradually, sufficient good stock to make the sauce of the consistency of thick cream. Put the meat and the gravy into a saucejoan, and simmer them very gently. When about half cooked, put in a dozen button mushrooms, half a dozen small onions, and a handful of young kidney beans, or any other vegetable that maybe liked. Time to simmer, one hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Chicken (a la Sainte Menehould). Fricassee a chicken so that the gravy, when cold, will be a solid jelly ; take out the pieces oi chicken with the jelly on them, and strew over them finely-grated bread-crumbs, then dip them into egg, and then into bread-crumbs again. Fry them in hot butter or lard, and send a rich brown sauce to table with them. Time to iry, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6'd. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken (aux Fines Herbes). Make a forcemeat by mincing the liver of a chiclcen, and addiag to it a tea-spoonful each of chervil, tai-ragon, chiA es, and parsley, all finely minced, two pinches of salt, and one of pe23per ; work these ingredients together with a little butter, put them inside the chicken, and sew it up to prevent the forcemeat escaping ; cover the bird with slices of bacon, place over that some buttered paper, and roast before a clear fire. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg; into a saucepan, and, when it is hot, fry in it a large onion sliced, and a large carrot ; mix in -tei-j' smoothly a table-spoonful of floirr, and add sufficient stock to make the sauce a nice thickness. Add a glass of white wine and a tea-spoonful each of pimpernel, chervil, tarragon, and garden cress, all finely minced. Simmer the gravj'gently for an hour, strain it, and, if necessary, put in with it a little more salt and pepper. When it has simmered for a short time, serve the gravy in the dish which contains the chicken. Time, half an hour to roast the chicken ; an hour and a quarter to make the gravy. Sufficient, one chicken for three persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Chicken, Baked, in Rice. Cut a chicken into neat joints, and season each with pepper, salt, and a vei-j- little poimded mace. Place some slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep dish, lay the' chicken upon it, strew over it a finely-minced onion, iDom- a breakfast-cupful of veal stock over all, and pie up the dish with boiled rice. Put a cover on, and bake for an hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Chicken, Boiled. Wash a chicken carefully in lukewarm water, and truss it firmly ; jDut it into hot water, remove the scum as it rises, let it boil, then draw it to the side and let it simmer gently until ready, and remember that the more slowlv it boils the tenderer CHI ( 128 ) CHI and whiter it will be. Before putting it in the pan, place a few slices of lemon on the bi'east, and wrap the chicken first in buttered paper, then in a floured cloth. Before serving it a little sauce may be poured over it, and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Bacon, pickled pork, ham, or tongue, are generally served with boiled chicken ; and parsley and butter, bechamel, English white sauce, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce may accompany it. Time to boil, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient, one small chicken for two persons. Chicken, Broiled, (with Mushroom Sauce). Pick and wash a chicken carefully, and dry it in a. cloth ; cut it down the back, truss the legs and wings as if for boiling, and flatten both sides as much as possible. It is always better to boil it gently for a few minutes before it is broiled, but this is often omitted. When cold, dip it in egg, sprinkle over it nicelyseasoned bread-crumbs, put two or three lumps of butter on it, and broil it before a clear, low fire. It should be placed a good distance from the fire, and the inside should be put to it first. The butter should be renewed three or four times. Serve very hot, and let stewed mushrooms be sent to tabk on a separate dish. Time, half to three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for two persons. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Chicken Broth. This may bo made from the inferior joints of a fowl, the best pieces being cooked in some other way , or the towl niay be used after it is cooked, in which case only just enough water must be put over it to cover it. lioast it for twenty minutes before putting it to boil; by this means the flavour will be improved. Generally speaking, a quart of water may be allowed for a mediumsized fowl. Put it into cold water, with very little salt, and no pepper, as these are better added afterwards, according to the taste of the invalid. Simmer very gently for a couple of houi-g, and skim the liquid carefully as it comes to a boil. If there is time, pour it out, let it get cold, remove every particle of fat and boil it up again. Chicken broth may be thickened with rice, oatmeal, groats, pearl barley, or arrowroot ; and these, besides making it more nutritious, will absorb a portion of the chicken fat, and make it smoother, and lighter of digestion. A few pieces of beef put in with the chicken are a great improvement. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one pint of broth. Chicken Broth (another way). The best parts of a young fowl may be used for a fricassee or a grill, and the inferior parts -will do for this broth ; or, an old fowl my be stewed, till all the bones are bare, in a quart of water, and a little more liquid may be added if necessary. Season the broth with salt, pepper, mace, or onion, according to taste and the appetite of the invalid. AVTien the fowl has simmered until it has parted with all its nutriment,'strain the liquid thi-ough a sieve, cool it, and remove the fat before it is warmed for use. This broth is seldom cared for by those who ai-e in good health. Time, one hour and a half, or till tender. Probable cost, 2s. to os. Sufficient for one quart of broth. Chicken Bruised. Roast a chicken, While it is hot, rcmore the entire breast, and mince, and pound the flesh in a mortar. Break the legs, pinions, &c., and simmer them ?with two breakfast-cupf uls of water, until the broth is reduced to one breakfast-cupful, then press the breast through a sieve into tho gravy, and flavour the mi.xture with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-iind. Warm this up, with a cupful of cream, just before it is wanted. This is a good dish for an invalid.' Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost of chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for one invalid. Chicken, Curried. This may bo made either from uncooked chicken, or with tho remains of a cold one. \ len a fresh chicken is used, cut the bird into neat joints and fiy them lightly in hot butter or lard till they are brown. Put with them a Spanish onion, sliced, and a few muslrrooms, covering all with some good stock. Let this sauce simmer gently for twenty minutes or more. INIix two dessertsjioonfuls of curry paste and a spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with a little water, and add this to the sauce. A little apple pulp or rasped cocoa-nut may be added if the flavour is liked. Just before serving, stir in a cupful of hot cream, and a squeeze of lemonjuice. Serve the cui-ry in a hot dish, with rice {see Kice Boiled for Curry) piltMi round it. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, Cuxried (another way). Take the remains of a cold fowl cut it into neat joints, and put aside until wanted. Fry a finely-minced apple and an onion sliced, in some hot butter or lard. When they are lightly browned, press them through a sieve and put the pulp into a saucepan with a pint of good gravy Thicken this with a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and a dessert- spoonful of ground rice; boil it gently until it is smooth and thick. Put in the pieces of chicken and let them remain until they are quite hot ; squeeze a little lemonjuice over, and just before serving, add a tablespoonful of thick cream. Serve the curry with rice (see liice Boiled for Curry) piled round the dish. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for three persons. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold fowl. Chicken Cutlets. Cut into small neat joints a couple of young chickens, remove the skin and bones, and season each \i\ecc with salt, cayenne, and a little pounded mace ; then dii it into egg, and strew thickly over it some finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put the bones, &c., into a saucepan, -with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a small piece of thin lemon-rind, a little salt, seven or eight peppercorns, and a pint of water or stock, if at hand. Let these simmer gently for one hoiu- and a half, then strain the gravy, and thicken it with a little brown thickening, or failing this a little CHI ( 129 ) CHI flour and butter, and add a table -spoonful of mushioom ketchup, and a squeeze of lemonjuice. Keep the sauce hot. Fry the prepared cutlets in hot butter or lard till they are nicely browTied; turn them two or three times that they may be equally cooked. Pile them high in a hot dish, and pour the gra\y round them, or send it to table in a tureen. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to fry the cutlets. Hufficient for a medium-sized dish. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. each chicken. Chicken Cutlets (another way). Take two large chickens, which have been gently stewed until done, then pressed between two dishes until cold. Kemove the flesh of the breast and wing on either side of the bone, thus making four fillets. Then take the meat imder the wings, and any nice pieces you can find, and flatten them into the shape and size of the first ; dip these cutlets into beaten egg, and strew over them bread-crumbs mixed with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Make some gravy as in the last recipe, and keep it hot. Cut as many sijjpets of bread as there are cutlets, make them all of the siime shape and size, and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly browned. Place them on a hot dish, fry the cutlets, and place one upon each sippet. Pour the gravy round, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to fry the cutlets. Allow one cutlet for each person. Probable cost, exclusive of the chicken, 8d. Chicken Cutlets (French method). Take the remains of one or two cold chickens. Cut them into neat joints, strew over them a tittle salt, pepper, and pounded mace, dip them into clarified butter, then into egg, and strew over them bread-crumbs and finely-minced parsley. Fry them lightly in hot butter or dripping. Put a puree of sorrel or spinach in the middle of the dish, place the cutlets round it, and grate a little Parmesan cheese over them. Send good gravy made of the bones and trimmings to table in a tureen. Time, five or six minutes to fry the cutlets. Sufficient for four or five person.' . Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold chicken. Chicken, Devilled. The best parts of chicken for a devil are the wings and legs. SHt these in several places, and fill vqt the openings with made mustard ; then mix together salt, pepper, and cayenne (half a saltspoonful of the latter will be enough), and season them highly. Broil over a clear fire, and serve the fowl hot on a napkin. No sauce is required. Time, ten or twelve minutes to broil. Chicken (en Matelote). Cut a fine chicken into neat joints. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, and when it is hot fry the pieces of chicken in it till they are lightly browned, then lift them out and put them aside until wanted. Fry in the butter six small onions sliced, a large carrot cut into quarters, a parsnip also quartered, and a dozen small mushrooms. Poiu- over these sufiicient stock to cover them, add some savoury herbs, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper, and simmer all gently together until the sauce is richly flavoui'ed. Strain it auvl thicken it with a little brown thickening, pour into it a glass of claret, and simmer it gently until it is smooth and thick. Put in the chicken, mix with the hash the liver of the chicken jDOunded, a boned anchovy and half a tea- spoonful of bruised capers. Simmer a quarter of an hour longer and serve. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Chicken, Fricasseed. Choose a fresh, tender chicken. Draw, singe, and wash it, then cut it into neat joints. Soak these joints in cold water for an houi', then drain them, and put them into a saucepan, with a bunch of savoury herbs, an onion stuck with two cloves, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and enough water to cover them. Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the scum aS' it rises, and simmer very gently for half an I hour, or until the moat is sufiiciently cooked. When this point is reached, further boiling will spoil the flavour. Put two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom powder into a stewpan. Stir the mixture about until it is quite smooth, but do not let it brown ; add, gradually, a pint and a half of the liquor in which the chicken was boiled, and simmer gently for half an hour. Put the pieces of chicken into a saucepan with a little of the sauce, and let them warm gently. Thicken the remainder of the sauce with the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut ; draw the sauce from the fire before adding them, mix a little of it with them first, then pour the mixture into the remainder. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added. Put the chicken into a dish, pour the sauce over, and take stewed mushrooms to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Chicken, Fricasseed (another way). Take the remains of a cold chicken ; cut it into neat joints. Make some good gra\y by simmering the- trimmings in some good stock, with an onion stuck with three cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about an hour. Strain the gravy ; take a breakfast-cupful of it, and thicken it with a tea-spoonful of flour ; let this boil, then put in the chicken. Draw the saucepan from the tire for a minute or two, and mix a little of the sauce with the yolks of two eggs and a cupful of cream ; pour the mixture into the saucepan, let it get thoroughly hot, but on no account allow it to boil, or the eggs ?w'ill curdle. Serve with the sauce poiu-ed over the chicken. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Sufficient for three or four persons. Chicken, Fried. Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into neat joints, salt and pepper these rather highly, and strew- over them finely-chopped onion and parsley. Cover them with oil, and squeeze over them the juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces every now and then, and let them remain until they have imbibed the flavour, then dip the pieces in flour, and CHI ( 130) CHx fry them in hot butter or lard. Put a breakfast-cupful of good stock into a saucepan, with a moderate-sized onion stuck with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a little salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a little parsley and tarragon chopped small. Let this sauce boil well, and then strain ii. Serve the ieces of chicken piled \ipon a dish; pour the sauce round, and serve with toasted sippets. Time : to make the gravy, one horn- and a half ; to fry the pieces ?f chicken, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the chicken. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, Fried (another way). Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into neat pieces, brush a little oil over each piece, and strew over it, rather thickly, salt and curry powder. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, and fry some onions, cut into thin strips about half an inch long and the eighth of an inch wide. Fry them slowly, and keep them in the pan until they are a dark-brown colour, and quite dry. They will require a little care, as the)' must on no account be burnt. Fry the chicken, strew the onion over it, and serve with slices of lemon. Time to fry the chicken, ten minutes. Allow two or three pieces of chicken ! for each person. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Chicken Fritters. Cut every particle of meat from a cold chicken, mince it finely, and mix -svith a cupful of the mincemeat a batter made with four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, a pint of new milk or cream, a little sugar, and a little finely-shred lemonrind. Put these all together into a saucepan, the chicken with them, and stir the mixture constantly over a gentle fire until it thiclccns. Put a little butter in an omelet-pan ; when it is hot, pour in the batter, fiy it deeply on both sides, and cut it into neat pieces. Strew a little sugar on the dish, and lay the fritters on it. Serve as hot as possible. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold j chicken. Sufficient, for five or six persons. Chicken in Peas. Take a fresh yoimg chicken. Cut it into neat joints, and lay them in a saucepan \viih a quart of young green peas, measui-ed after they are shelled. Add a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, a bunch of parsley, a pinch of salt, a small pinch of pepper, and a small onion. Pour a cupful of good gravy over them, and simmer gently until the liquor is exhausted. Then mix a small lump of butter with a tea-spoonful of flour, and put this to the peas, which should be boiling when it is put in. Shake the saucepan about until the peas are nicely thickened, and sel? 'e them piled high in a dish, with the pieces of chicken round. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost : chicken, 2s. 6d ; peas, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for four persons. Chicken, Marinaded. Cut a cold roasted chicken into neat joints, season them well in salt and cayenne, strew over them chopped onion and parsley, and soak them for an hour in equal parts of lemon- juice and oil. Turn them frequently. Drain them, and dip each piece in a light batter, or else in white of eggs beaten up, and fry them in hot butter or lard until hghtlj' browned. Garnish with fried parsley. Sufficient, one chicken for two or thi-ee persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Time to fry, ten minutes. Chicken, Minced. Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut oft' all the meat, and mince it fiuely. Put a breakfast-cupful of white stock into a saucepan, thicken it with a little flour, and let it boil for twenty minutes; then add half a dozen mushrooms chopped small, half a pint of cream or new milk, a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and the minced chicken. When the mushrooms are cooked, serve as quickly as possible, with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d., if made %vith milk, exclusive of the cold chicken. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, Mushroom Sauce for. Put the legs and neck of the chicken, -with any trimmings of meat that are to be had, a large blade of mace, six or eight peppercorns, a bunch of savoury herbs, a drachm of celery-seed bruised, a piece of thin lemon-rind, and a boned anchovy, into a saucepan with a quart of water, and let the hquid simmer do'svTi to half a pint. Prepare half a pint of young mushrooms, and put them into a stewpan -svith an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a pint of the liquid strained, and half a pint of cream or milk. Put the sauce over a good fire, and stir it until it is sufficiently thick. Pour it round boiled chiekens. Time, exclusive of the stock, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, lOd., if made with milk. Sufficient for a couple of good-sized chickens. Chicken, Panada (Invalid Cookery). Take a fresh young chicken, and boil it, until quite tender, in sufficient water to cover it. Take off all the meat from the bones, and pound it in a mortar until quite smooth, with a little of the liquid it was boiled in, and add some salt, nutmeg, and a verj little grated lemon-rind. Boil this gently for a few minutes with sufficient liqiud to make it of the consistency of thick custard. Time, twenty-five minutes to boil the chicken. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. A very little of this contains a great deal of nourishment. Chicken Patties. Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and mince it very finely. To every six ounces of chicken allow three ounces of lean ham also minced, a piece of butter about the size of an egg rolled in flour, a small teacupful of cream or new milk, and the same ?f white stock, two pinches of salt, one of pejjper, a quarter of a small nutmeg gi-ated, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon flnely grated, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. A few minced mushrooms are a great improvement. Put these into a saucepan, and stir them gently for ten minutes, taking care that they do not bum. Line some patty-pans -with good crust. Put a piece of paper crumpled up or a crust of bread into each to support the top while baking, and place a cover of crust over it. AVhen sufficiently baked, take off the top crust, remove the bread or the paper, three-parts fiU the patty with the mixture, replace the cover, being careful not to break it, and fasten it with white of egg. CMI ( 131 ) CHI Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable ccost, 2d. each. Allow one for each person. Chicken Pie. Take two large chickens, aiid cut them into neat joints. Put the trimmings, neck, and bones of the legs into a stewpan, with some pepper and sjilt, a blade of mace, an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a little water, or stock. Let these simmer gently for one hour and a half. They are to make gravy. Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good crust. Put a layer of chicken at the bottom, then a layer of ham cut in slices, and over that som'.' sausage-meat or forcemeat, and some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Eepeat until the dish is full. Pour over all a cupful of water or white stock, and place a cover on the top. Brush over it the yolk of an egg. Bake in a good oven. When the pie has been in the oven about half an hour, place a piece of paper over the top to prevent the crust from being frizzled irp before the meat is sufficiently cooked. When it is ready, raise the cover and pour in the gravy made from the bones. Put a trussing- needle into the pie to ascertain whether it is sufficiently cooked. If it goes through easily, take the pio out. A pie made with two chickens, sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 6s. Chicken Pie (a good dish for picnics, breakfast, or luncheon). Prepare the chicken and make the gravy as in the preceding recipe ; make a forcemeat by pounding the liver in a mortar, with four ounces of lean, ham, foiuounces of tongue, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of foiu- hard-boiled eggs. Season the mixtui'c with a little salt and cayenne, and make it into balls. Place a layer of chicken at the bottom of a deep dish, and over this a layer of ham. Place the forcemeat balls amongst the pieces of meat. Strew over them some chopped mushrooms or truffles, pour in the gra-\y, and cover the dish with good puff paste. The edges must have been previously lined with puff jaaste. When the pie is about half baked, cover it with paper to prevent its I becoming too brown. Sausage-meat may be i substituted for the forcemeat, if preferred. A ' few hard-boiled eggs are by many considered i an improvement. Time to bake, one and a half or two hours. Probable cost, 7s. or 8s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Chicken, Potted. Take the meat from a cold roast chicken, remove the gristle and skin, and weigh it after it is picked. To every pound of chicken-meat allow a quarter of a pound of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, four grains of cayenne, one tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a quarter of a small nutmeg. Poimd these thoroughly in a mortar. Press the paste into small jars, and cover it - vith clarified butter about _ a quarter of an inch in thickness. Keep it in a dry place. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold chicken. A little of it should be spread on bread and butter for each person. Chicken Rissoles. Pick the flesh from a cold chicken, mince it finely, and to every quarter of a pound of meat put one ounce of lean ham, one oimce of finely-grated bread crumbs, a small onion, boiled and chopped, a piece of clarified butter about the size of a walnut, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half that quantity of pepper, and two or three grates of a nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then bind the mixture together with an egg well beaten. Make some good puff paste, and roll it out rather thinly. Stamp it in rounds about the size of the top of a tea-cup. Put a little of the mince on half these ; moisten the edges all round, and fold the pastry in the shape of a turnover. Dip these in egg and bread-crimibs, fry them a light brown, di-ain them thoroughly from the fat, and sei-ve them piled high on a napkin, with fried parsley garnishing the dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Allow two for each person. Chicken, Roast. Yoimg spring chickens should be very carefully prepared for roasting, as the flesh is so tender that it \vill easily tear. They require no stuffing. A little butter placed inside is an improvement. They should be firmly trussed like a fowl, well flavoured, put down to a clear fire, and basted constantly until ready. Bread (brown), mushroom, egg, er chestnut sauce may all be seived with roast chicken. If the fire is too fierce a piece of oiled pajier may be fastened over the breast of the bird whilst it is down. Time to roast, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Chicken, Roast (another way.) If it is wished to stuff the chicken, a forcemeat may be made by mincing the liver and an equal quantity of bacon together, then adding a salt-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, three or four chives, cut small, and a little pepper. The chicken should then be covered with slices of bacon, with a piece of buttered paper fastened over them. If it is preferred, a couple of boned anchovies may be substituted for the lemonrind in the stuffing. Time to roast, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for thrc persons. Chicken Salad, Plain. Take a wellboiled fowl, and cut it into neat, small pieces. Make a pickle of equal parts of oil, vinegar, with a little : nely-minced onion, salt, and pepper, and let the pieces lie in this two or three hours, turning them occasionally that the chicken may become impregnated with the flavour of the pickle. Prepare some lettuce; if it is young, the little heads may be cut into halves ;' if large, the hearts may be cut lengthways and divided ; but especial care should be taken in making salads that the lettuce is perfectly dry. It is a good plan to wash it some hours before it is needed, and hang it in a wire basket in an airy situation. If after this it is not quite free from moisture, two or three leaves at a time should be put into a clean dry towel, and shaken gently about. A salad is ne -er properly made unless attention is paid to this j oint, as the dressing, instead of mixing with the salad, ??-ill be all at the bottom of the bowl. IMake a sauce as in the preceding recipe. Arrange the chicken and salad in the di.sh as prettily as you can, and CHI ( 132) CHI pour the sauce over them; garnish -svith thin slices of beetroot cut into shapes with an oriiinarj pastry cutter, haid-boiled eggs cut into slices or quarters, and a little green parsley between the pieces of egg. A chicken salad neatly and tastefully arranged has a good appearance, and is generally a welcome dish. Time to boil the chicken, half an hour. Probable cost : chicken, 2s. Gd. ; salad and dressing, Is. Sufficient for six persons. Chicken Salad, Ricli. Boil a largo chicken until quite tender, and, when it is cold, pick off the meat in small pieces. Take as much celery as there is chicken, and cut it into pieces about an inch long, put it in a little water to make it crisp, then drain and cby it thoroughly. Put the yolks of two eggs into a large basin, and beat them wdth a silver fork until they begin to feel thick. Add first a lieaped tea-spoonful of mustard, and afterwards six teaspoonfuls of oil, putting in the first two tea- spoonfuls by three drops at a time, and beating the sauce thoroughly between each addition. To every sixth tea-spoonful of oil put one tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and repeat until half a pint of oil and the juice of a large lemon have been used. Flavour with three pinches of salt and two of red pepper, and, last of aU, put in a table-spoonful of cream. The sauce should be thick, and highly flavoured. Slix the chicken with the celery, pour half the dressing into the salad and the rest on the top, and garnish according to taste. " Time, half an horn- to boil the chicken. Probable cost : chicken, 2s. 6d. ; celery, 3d. per head. Suflicient for six persons. Chicken, Sauce for. Take the livers of the fowls you are using, and boil them with a bunch of thy mo and parsley ; drain them, and jiound them in a mortar with two boned anchovies, a little pepper and salt, and the finely-grated rind of half a lemon ; add the white of one cgs:, and the hard-boiled yolks of two. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the mixture, and put it into a saucepan -svith a pint of good melted better. Stir the sauce constantly until it is thick enough. Time, altogether, about half an hour. Suflicient for a couple of boiled cluckens. Probable cost, 6d. Chicken, Sauce for Roast. Roast chickens are generally seiwed with brown sauce, and bread sauce in a separate tureen. If no gravy is at hand, and some sauce is wanted at once, a few slices of liver may be fried v ith a little bacon imtil nicely browned, boiling water poured upon them, and sti-ained. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Chicken, Scalloped. Take the remains of a cold chicken, free it from skin and gristle, and mince it finely. Place the mince in a saucepan, and moisten it -ydih. some white sauce, or, failing that, some white stock mixed with a little cream, and thickened with flour. Season -svith salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Let the mixture boil, stirring it all the time. Butter the scallop shells, strew some bread- i crumbs over them, fill them with the mixture, and strew more bread-crumbs over the top. Sprinkle some clarified butter over them, and bake in a hot oven, and serve with pickles or cucumber. Time, half an. hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Allo-sv two for each person. Chicken Soup, Delicate. Pluck and wash thoroughly throe young chickens, and put them in a ste ?2Dan with five pints of good, white, nicely-flavoured stock, thorouglily freed from fat and cleared from sediment. A sliced turnip and carrot may be put with them, and removed before the soup is thickened. Let them simmer gently for nearly an liour. liemovo all the white flesh, and return the rest of the birds to the soup, and simmer once more for a couple of hours. Pour a little of the boiling liquid over a quarter of a poimd of the crumb of bread, and when it is well soaked, drain it, jjut it in a mortar with the flesh which has been taken from the bones, and pound it to a smooth paste, adding, by degrees, the liquid. Flavour -with salt, cayenne, and a very little pounded mace, press the mixtuie through a sieve, and boil once more, adding one pint of boiling cream. If the soup should not be sufiiciently thick, a tablespoonful of arrowroot which has boon mixed may be added 'ery smoothly with a little cold milk. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Chicken, To Pull. Take a cold roasted chicken, cut oif the legs, sidesmen, and back, season these witli pepper and salt, and dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Take off the skin from the breast and wings, and pull the flesh off in thin flakes ; have ready some good white sauce, nicely flavoured, and put it in a saucepan with the white meat, shaking the saucepan. Broil the legs, &c. Pom- the mince into the middle of a hot dish ; place the back upon it, and the legs and pinions round. Just before serving, squeeze over the dish the juice of a lemon. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Suffi.cient for three persons. Chicken, White Sauce for Boiled. Put a largo blade of mace, six or eight peppercorns, and four cloves into a cupful of cold water or white stock, and let them simmer gently until the flavour is extracted. Strain the liquid, and put it into a saucepan with four boned anchovies finely minced, four ounces of butter rolled in flour, and a breakfast-cupful of cream or new milk. Let it boil for two or three minutes, stirring it all the time. Probable cost, 8d. Suflicient for two small chickens. Chicken and Ham Sandwiches. Put a breakfast-cupful of good gra-sy into a saucepan, with three dessert-spoonfuls of cuiTy paste mixed smoothly in it. Add half a pound of the flesh of a cold chicken, and two ounces of lean ham finely minced. Let the ingredients boil for ten minutes, then turn them out. Cut some slices of stale bread about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and stamp them out in shapes. Fry them in a little butter, spread some of the mixtin-e between two of them, and put over it a little slice of cheese, and a piece of butter. Press it well do-svn, bake the sand-s 'iches in a quick oven, on a baking sheet, and serve them as hot as possible, piled high on a napkin. Time, five minutes to bake. Allow two or CHI ( 133 ) CHI three for each, person. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. Chicken and Ham, To Pot. Pound sej)arately the -white meat of a cold fowl, and an equal weight of ham, beef, or tongue. Season the fowl with salt, pepj er, and pounded mace, and the otlier meat with pepper only. Put layers of each into a jar, place a slice of butter on the top, and bake for an hour and a half. Let them get cold, then poui- some plarilied butter on the top rather thickly. A little may be eaten with bread and butter for breakfast or luncheon. I'robable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Chicken, and Macaroni. Boil a chicken in the usual manner. Take half a pound of pipe macaroni, and boil it in water ?with a lump of butter in it. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, drain it, and substitute milk for the water, with a large onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Boil until the macaroni is tender but unbroken, then grate over it n quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese. Lay the chicken, which ought to be just cooked, on a dish, put the macaroni and cheese over it, and serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the macaroni the second time, half an hour ; to boil the chicken, half an hour. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Chicken and Macaroni Pudding. . Boil three ounces of pipe macaroni in some nicely-iiavoured stock till it is tender but unbroken. Prepare the meat as in the last recipe, allowing six ounces of ham and six ounces of chicken to three ounces of macaroni. Mix them well together, and add a well-beaten egg, and a inece of butter about the size of an egg. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, tie it in a cloth, boil or steam it, and when ready serve it as hot as possible. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. , exclusive of the cold meat. Sufiicicnt for fom- persons. Chicken and Rice Pudding. Cut the meat from the remains of a cold fowl, and take half its weight in ham. Free it from skin and gristle, and pound it in a mortar, with a little salt, white pei32)er, and pounded mace. To one pound of fowl, and half a pound of ham, allow a cupfid of rice. Boil this in some nicelyflavourGd_ stock till it is sufficiently cooked, then di-ain it, and add to it a cupful of new milk and the pounded meat. Stir these well together. Put the mixtnre into a buttered mould, di-edgc a little flour over the top, tie it in a floui-cd cloth, and boU it for an hour, taking care that the water in the saucepan does not reach as high as the top of the mould. Serve with mushroom or oyster sauce. Probable cost, 6_d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for six persons. Chicken and Sweetbread Pie. Line a deep ])ie-dish with a good crust, and spread a layer of forcemeat on it. Put over this alternate layers of chicken cut into neat joints, and sweetbread cut into small pieces, both seasoned "with salt and cayemic ; sprinkle over each layer a few mushrooms and truffles chopped small. When the dish is nearly full, put some slices of hard-boiled egg over the top, pour a little gravjover the meat, cover the dish with the same crust that it was lined with, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake it in a good oven. Just before serving, make a hole in the top and pour in some good gravy. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient, a pie made with two chickens for sLx persons. Chicken and Tongue with Caidifiowers (a handsome supper dish). Boil a tongue and two chickens according to the directions given for both. Brush the tongue over w-ith glaze, place it in the middle of a large dish, and put a chicken on each side of it. Cover the birds with white sauce, and garnish the dish with small caidiflowers or brussels sprouts. Servo hot. If preferred, celery may be boiled, and substituted for the cauliflowers, or the chickens and tongue may be served sold, and the dish gamishod -with cut lemon and l arsley. Time, haK an hour for the chickens, two hours for the tongue, twenty minutes for the cauliflowers. Sufficient, two chickeiLS and a tongue forsix persons. Probable cost : chickens, about 5s. per paii- ; tongue, 4s. ; cauliflowers, 2d. each. Children's Cake (suitable for sending to children at school). Mix thoroughly one pound of flour, two heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking j powder, and a pinch of salt. Rub well in a 1 quarter of a pound of butter or good beef drip I ping, and add a quarter of a pound of currants, I a quarter of a pound of chopped raisins, a quarter I of a pound of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and ! two ounces of candied peel chopped small. I IMix the cake lightly with new milk, and bake I it in a moderate oven. If prefened, caraway I seeds may bo substituted for the cui-rants and raisins. Time to bake, one horn-. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. Chili Vinegar. Cut 100 small, fresh, red chilies into halves, and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of best pickling vinegar. Strain the liquid and put it into small bottles. The flavour of the chilies will not be entirely extracted, so the bottle may be replenished with rather less vinegar than before. It is a convenience to have this vinegar at hand to flavour sauces, and to serve -w-ith fish, which many persons cannot eat without the addition of an acid and cayenne. Half an ounce of cayenne - ?ill ansv.-er the same purpose as the chihes, if it can be procured genuine. The \'inegar will keep a long time if closely corked. Sufficient for three joints of %-inegar. Probable cost, chilies, 2s. per hundred. China Chilo. Mince finely as much of the undi-essed lean part of the neck, leg, or loin of mutton as will fill a pint basin, addmg a little of the fat, also minced, if this is liked. Put thi-ee ounces of butter into a saucejjan, with two small onions chopped small, two or three yoimg lettuces finely shred, a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter as much cayenne pe2:)i)er, a pint of young green peas, and a small bunch of parsley. Stir the ingredients over a gentle fire until the onions are soft, then add the minced meat, and half a pint of good stock or CHI ( 134) CHO water. Stir constantly until the mixture is quite hot, then cover the saucepan closely, and simmer it very gently for two houi'S. Serve it in a hot dish, with a border of rice round it. A cupful of chopped mushi-ooms will be an improvement. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Ching-Ching (an American drink). Put three ounces of peppermint, three or four di'ops of the essence of cloves, a sliced orange, a dessert-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded iee into a large tumbler. Mix with it a quarter of a pint of rum, stir the mixtm e for a minute or two, and drink it through a straw. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the rum. Sufficient for a large tumblerful. Chipolata Garnish. Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, chestnuts, mushrooms, pieces of bacon, and small sausages, as many a-j may be required for the dish they are to garnish. Make them all as nearly as possible of the same shape and size. Roast and peel the chestnuts, and boil the other ingredients separately. A\nien they are ready drain- them and put them into a saucepan, cover them with good brown sauce, nicely seasoned, and add a glass of sherry ; let them boil, then use the ragout for garnishing dishes of game, poultry, and cutlets. Time : it is better to prepare this garnish a day before it is wanted, as a good deal of time is consumed in shaping the ingredients properly. Chives, Butter. Boil half a pound of butter, remove the scum as it rises, and let it boil for a few minutes. Squeeze into it the juice of a large lemon, and add a tea-spoonful of finely-minced chives. A small onion chopped, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley will do nearly as well. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for half a pound of butter. Chocolate. Chocolate, when obtained genuine, is made from .the berry of the cacao tree, mixed with a little cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar. It is a most agreeable and nutritious beverage. It is much used in Spain. That which is sold in England is too often a mixture of flour and treacle, with a very small quantity of the real article mixed in it. Scrape as much chocolate as may be required into equal quantities of hot milk and water. Stir it until it is dissolved, then put it in the saucepan, and make it quite hot, stirring it all the time. It must not boil up, or it will be oily. Sweeten and serve. The quantity to be used depends on the strength wanted. Generally speaking, one ounce of chocolate may be used for one pint of milk and water. AVhere chocolate is regularly used, it is much better to have a proper chocolate mill, so that it may be served hot and frothy. Time, ten noinutes. Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 6d. per pound. Cheap chocolate should be avoided. Allow one ounce for each person. Chocolate Biscuits. Mix a quarter of a pound of finely-grated chocolate with a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar, and moisten the mixture with sufficient beaten white of egg to make a softish paste. Mould this into sniall biscuits with a tea-spoon, and place these on a sheet of paper, leaving a little distance between the biscuits. Bake them in a moderate oven, and, when sufficiently cooked, turn the sheets over so that the biscuits may rest on the table, and brush the paper underneath the biscuits with a little water to loosen them. The addition of six ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, will convert these into chocolate macaroons. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Chocolate Canellons. Mix two ounces of grated chocoltite with foiu- ounces of finelysifted sugar and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and add the beaten white of an egg to make a paste. Take' pieces about the size of a walnut, and roll them out very thinly, place them on a buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven for ten or fifteen nunutes. While they are warm, turn them over a ruler to shape them, and shp them on a sieve to diy. Probable cost, 5d. for this quantity. Sufiicient for a small dessert-dish. Chocolate Cream. Grate one ounce of the best chocolate and two ounces of sugar into a pint of thick cream ; boil it, stirring it all the time, until quite smooth, then add, when cool, the whites of four eggs beaten to a solid froth. Half fill the glasses, and whip the remainder into a froth to put at the top. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s., allowing Is. 6d. per pint for the cream. Sufficient for a j)int and a half of cre:im. Chocolate Custard. Poiu- half a cupful of boiling water over one ounce of the best chocolate finely grated, let it stand by the fire tiU it is dissolved ; stir it gradually into a pint of milk or cream, and add two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and the yolks of four eggs well beaten. Put the custard into a saucepan, and beat it to a froth until it thickens. It may be put into cups and baked in a good oven. It is more generally served as it is. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk. Sufiicient for a pint and a half. Chocolate Drops. Dissolve fflur ounces of the best French chocolate in a little boiling water, and add to it half a pound of sifted sugar, stir the mixture on the fire till it is smooth and quite hot. Place it in drops about the size of a sixpence on sheets of \vriting paper, and leave them until cold. If it is wished, the drops may be shaken (while still soft) in a paper with some nonpareil comfits. They should be kept in layers between sheets of paper. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 7d. for this quantity. Chocolate Ice Cream.. Dissolve half a jDOund of the best French chocolate in a breakfast-cupful of boiling water, add a pint and a half of cream and half a pound of sugar boiled to a syrup ; strain the liquid through silk and put it into the ice-pail. Time to freeze, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. for this quantity. Sufficient for two joints and a haK of iee cream. Chocolate Mill. The chocolate mill is used to give the fine frothy appearance to the chocolate which is generally so much liked, and which cannot be so cft'octually produced without it, though brisk stirring over the fire will g? a CHO ( 1+5 ) CHO great way to secure it. In using this article, mix the chocolate smoothly with the water or milk, and pour it into the jDot ; put on the lid with the handle of the mill coming through it, and then CHOCOLATE MILL. warm the chocolate gently, ruhbing the handle briskly between the palms of the hands all the time tlie chocolate is on the fire. The preparation must not be allowed to boil, or it will be oily. When the lid is taken ?ff, the chocolate will be found to be in a fine state of froth. Probable cost, 5s. Chocolate Pudding. Put an ounce of best chocolate grated, and as much powdered cinnamon as would stand on a threepenny piece into two table-spoonfuls of boiling water. Let the mixture stand by the side of the fire until dissolved, then mix with it a pint of boiUng milk, and add foiu- large lumps of sugar, and when it is cold, four eggs well beaten. Pour the mixtm-e into a buttered pie-dish, and cither steam or bake it for half an hour. It is more suitable to eat hot when steamed, and cold when baked. A httle sifted sugar may be eaten with the pudding cold, and arrowroot sauce served with it hot. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. -.. Chocolate Tarts. Grate two ounces of the best French chocolate, and mix with it a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of ground rice. Mix a pint of cream or new milk vith four well-beaten eggs, and add the custard gradually and smoothly to the chocolate powder. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, but be careful that the cream does not curdle. Line the inside of a tart-dish with good puff paste. Pour the cream, when cool, into it, and bake the tart in a modci-ate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. aiade with milk, 2s. made with cream. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Chops, Broiled. Mutton is the meat for chops, though lamb and pork also furni.sh excellent ones. A variety of dishes may be made from them, and they may be served vith all sorts of sauces and vegetables. They are often cut from the best end of the neck, and the fillet of the leg, but those from the loin are considered the best. They should be cut half an inch thick, neither more nor less, and if taken from the neck, the bones should be shortened. To broil chops trim them neatly, remove nearly all the fat, which may be rendered and made into good dripping, and pepper them slightly. Have a clear fire made of cinders. j\Ialco the gridiron hot, and rub it well with mutton suet. Put the chops upon it and place it slanting to prevent the fat dropjaing on the fire, and causing a smoke. If a blaze should arise, remove the gridiron for a moment, and strew a handful of salt over the fire. Turn the chops often till they are done, which will be in abeut eight minutes. Place them on a hot dish with a piece of butter about the size of a nut on each chop, and send mushi-oom ketchup to table with them. French cooks pepper and salt them, and brush some clarified butter over them before broiling, and this tends to keep in the juices. If it can be done, they are better sent to table one at a time, as they are broiled. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Chops, Broiled (a la Maintenon). Cut and trim the chops as before. Beat the yolk of an egg, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of parsleyv alf a tea-spoonful of thj-me, and a httle salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Cover the' chops with this, then wrap each one in a piece of weU-buttered writing paper, and broil them as in the last recipe, turning them often. Serve with some good brown gravy. Time, about ten minutes. Allow one chop for each person. Probable cost, Is. Id. per pound. Chops, Fried. Prepare the chops as before. Brush each chop with beaten egg, and cover them with finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put a good slice of butter into the fij'ing-pan, and when it is melted, place them in it. Tui-n I them two or three times, and when they are \ nearly ready, sprinkle salt and pepper ever I them. Fry them over a clear fire not less than i ten or more than fifteen minutes. Vhen they I are taken up lay them for a moment or two I on blotting paper, to absorb the fat. ilake i some good melted butter, and stir into it, when i hoihng, two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced : pickled gherkins. Probable cost, Is. Id. per I pound. One chop will be sufiicient for each ' person. ! Chops, Stewed with OBion. Take ! half a dozen nice loin chops, trim theiai neatly, j remove nearly all the fat, and broil them for ? two minutes on each side, then place them in I clean blotting paper. Cut two large Spanish onions into sHces, and put them into a stew an with half a tea-spo+nful of salt, and four ounces of fresh butter. Place the chops upon them, and cover the saucepan closely, and stew all gently till the onions are reduced to pulp. Before dashing, pour a tea-spoonful of chili vinegar upon the dish. Steak may be eooked in this way as well as chops. Time to broil the chop, four minutes ; to stew them with the onions until the latter are reduced to pulp, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Allow one chop for each person. Choux. Put four ounces of butter into half a pint of boiling water, with two tablespoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and a salt-spoonful of minced lemon-rind. Let the butter melt CHO ( 136 ) CHB then add, gradually, four ounces of fine flour. Stir the paste quickly till it leaves the sides of the saucepan. Pour it out, and let it cool, then stir four cg-i s into it, one at a time, with a pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of orangedower water. Beat it well until the paste is quite firm and smooth. ]\Iake the paste into email halls about the size of a walnut, put them on a floured tin, and bake them in a moderate oven. Dry them before the fire, and make a little slit in the side to put jam into. This pastry may be made into any shape, and it swells very much in baking. Time to bake the choux, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, about lOd. for this quantity. Suflicient for a moderate-sized dish. Choux (another way). Make the pastry as in the last recipe. When the little balls are baked, cut a small round piece off the end of each, scoop out a little of the inside, and fill the cavity with some iced coffee. Replace the piece which was cut off, and dry as before. Time to bake, a quarter of an houi-. CtlOWCier (an American dish). Fry a 'quarter of a pound of pickled pork, which has been cut into dice, and a small minced onion, in hot butter or lard, till they are a deep brown. Put half of this at the bottom of a saucepan, place over it a soup-plateful of mashed potatoes, and over that some thick slices of uncooked sea bass or turbot, about four pounds in weight, the remainder of the pork and onions, and on the top, a second layer of potatoes. Season with half a nutmeg grated, a teaspoonful of powdered mace, five or six cloves, a table-spoonful of savoury herbs of which one-third should be thyme, one-third parsley, and one-third marjoram a tea-spoonful of salt, and four or five white peppercorns. Pour over all half a bottle of claret, half a bottle of ketchup, and sufficient water to cover it. Let it simmer gently until the fish is cooked. Probable cost, pork, lid. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Christmas Btin, Scottish.. Put one tea-spoonful of salt into two pounds of flour, and rub into it three-quarters of a pound of butter ; add a little warm water and two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and knead it into a light paste. Put aside a,bout one-thii-d of this paste, and work into the rest one pound and a half of currants, stoned and dried, two pounds of stoned raisins, four ounces of blanched almonds chopped small, half a pound of cantUed lemon, citron, and orange together, all finely minced, and a quarter of an ounce each of white pepper, ground ginger, and powdered oinnamon. When those are well worked in, shape them into a cylindrical form like a cheese. Roll out the paste which was set aside, and put it round the bun so as to make a sort of case for it. Wet the edges, and fasten them together to make them lie quite flat. Prick some holes in the top, and run a skewer from the top to the bottom in two or ihree places. Flour some thick paper and wraj the bun in it, binding it well with tape to keep it in shape. Ijake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half or more. Probable cost, 3s. for this quantity. Christmas Cake. Beat one jwund of butter into a cream, and mix with it three eggs well beaten, two pounds of flour, one pound of currants stoned and di'ied, one pound of sugar, five small tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, and a quarter of a pint of milk. Put the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake it in a moderate oven. Tliis is a very good cake if intended to be used soon, but it soon gets dry, and should not be kept in a damp place. Time to bake, about two hours. Sulficient for a good-sized cake. Probable cost, 23. 8d. Christmas Cake (another way). Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a dessertspoonful of salt, rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter, and one pound of lard. Put in an ounce and a half of German yeast or half a pint of good fresh brewers' yeast, and knead as for common bread. If there is any difliculty about the yeast, baking powder may be used, CHKISTMAS CAKE. allowing a heaped tea-spoonful of ordinary baking powder for every pound of material. If yeast is used, let the dough rise before adding the other ingredients. Mix in three pounds of currants, one pound and a half of moist sugar, a whole nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon-peel finely minced, a tablcspoouful of brandy, and four eggs well beaten. Butter the tins, and line them well with buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about two hours. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per cake. Suificient for four cakes. Christm.as Dish (suitable for supper or luncheon at any time). Take one pound of Swiss roll or sponge biscuit and half a pound of macaroons. Cut the roll into slices, and place these and the macaroons lightly at the bottom of a deep dish. Put half a 2 int of red cuiTant jeUy, half a pint of sherry, half a pint of raisin wine, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar into a saucepan, and, when boiling, pour it over the biscuits. Let it soak for some time, then pour over it a thick custard. Omament with almonds, blanched and quartered, stuck thickly into the custard. This ciish is also very good without the custard. Time to soak, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the wine. CHR ( 137 ) CHR Christmas Plum Pudding. The plum pudding is a uational dish, and is despised by foreign nations because they never can make it fit to eat. In almost every family there is ;i recipe for it, which has been handed down from mother to daughter through two or three generations, and which never has been and never will be equalled, much less aui'passed, by any other. Three or fouirecipes are here given, every one of which has been proved and approved. Every ingredient composing these puddings should be fresh and good, as one bad article, and especially one bad egg, will spoil the whole. The puddings are, we think, better when boiled in moulds, which should be well buttered before the mixture is put in, should be quite full, and should be covered with one or two folds of paper floured and bvittercd, and then vith a fioui-ed imdding-cloth. AVhcn bread is used, which makes a pudding lighter than flour, a little room should be allowed for s velling. A pinch of salt should always be remembered, as it brings out the flavour of the other ingredients. After it is tied in the cloth the pudding should be put into boiling water, and kept boiling until it is taken off, when it should be plunged quickly into a basin of cold water; by this means it will be less likely to break when turned out of the mould. It is usual, before sending it to table, to make a little hole in the top and fill it with brandy, then light it, and sei'\-e it in a blaze. In olden time a sprig of arbutus, with a red berry on it, was stuck in the middle, and a twig of variegated holly, with berries, placed on each side. This was done to keep away witches. It is a good plan to mix much more than is needed, and to make several puddings instead of one, boil all together, and warm one up when necessary. If well made, Chi-istmas plum pudding will be good for twelve months. It should be boiled for eight or nine hours some days before it is wanted; and when it is to be used, plunged again into boiling water, and boiled for at least two hours. Christmas Plum Pudding. Take one and a half pounds of bread-crumbs, half a pound of flour, two pounds of finely-shred beef suet, two pounds of stoned raisins, two pounds of currants, washed, j icked, and dried, two pounds of sugar, a c uarter of a pound of candied lemon andciti'on-peel, that is, two ounces of each, two small nutmegs grated, the juice of a lemon, and the rind finely chopped, a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, sixteen eggs, a glass of brandy, and as much milk as will wet it, but no more than that, as it makes the puddingheavy. It should be as stiff as paste. Mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly, then add the eggs and milk, and, last of all, the brandy. Boil it, and keep boiling for ten houi-s. Snffi.fient for a large family pudding (big enough for fourteen or sixteen persons) or four or five small ones. Probable cost, Gs. 6d. Christmas Plum Pudding (another way). Shred finely half a pound of beef suet ?with a little flour to prevent it sticking, add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of stoned 10 raisins, a quarter of a pound of sultanas, half a pound of currants, half a pound of breadcrumbs, two ounces of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, six sweet and six bitter almonds, blanched and shred finely, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied lemon and citron, and the rind of half a lemon finely chopped. Mix thoroughly, then add four well -beaten eggs and a wine-glassful of brandy. Let these stand for five or six hours, then add a cupful of milk, and boil for three hours. Probable cost. Is. 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or Hxc persons. Christmas Plum Pudding (for children). ? Shred finely three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, and add to it a pinch of salt, one pound and a half of breadcrumbs, half a pound of flour, three-quarters of CHRISTMAS PUDDING. a pound of muscatel raisins (these can be purchased loose, not in bunches ; they are then almost as cheap as the ordinarj- puddingraisins, and the flavour is very superior), threequarters of a pound of currants, picked and dried, two ounces of candied lemon and citron together, and half a large nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then add four eggs and milk enough to moisten it, but not too much, or the pudding -will be heavy. Tie it in a puddingcloth well floured, and boil for five or six hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten children. Christmas Pudding, Economical and Good. Shred very finely a quarter of a jjound of beef-suet, add a quarter of a pound of flour and a quarter of a pound of finelygrated bread-crumbs, six ounces of currants, picked and dried, six ounces of stoned raisins, two table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of mashed carrot and the same of mashed potatoes, one ounce of chopped candied lemon and one ounce of fresh lemon-rind, salt to taste, and a table-spoonful of treacle. 3Iix these ingredients well together, tie loosely in a floured cloth, boil for four hours, and serve with brandy sauce. If possil)le, let this pudding be made a few hours before it is wanted. Probable cost. Is. Sufiicient for half a dozen persons. Christmas Piidding, Teetotaller's, Small. Take one pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, pour over them a cupful of new milk, and let them soak until the milk is CHR ( 138) CIN quite absorbed, then add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of finely-shred beef suet, half a pound of muscatel raisins, a quarter of a nutuieg grated, and half of the thin rind of a lemon chopped small. Mix all well together, then add four well-beaten eggs, and boil at least five hours. Serve with good melted butter, mixed with a little sugar, and, if liked, the juice of a lemon. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Christopher North's Sauce for Meat or Gravy. Put a dessert- spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a heaped salt- spoonful of cayenne pepper into a jar. ]\Iix them thoroughly, then add to them very gradually two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of fresh lemonjuice strained, and a glass of port. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it remain until quite hot, but do not let it boil. If bottled when it is made, it will keep good for several days. It may be used for ducks, geese, pork, or any broil. If the flavour of cayenne is liked, the quantities may be doubled. The sauce should be made the night before it is used. Time to heat, about a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost, 6d., for this quantity. Sufficient for a quarter of a pint of sauce. Cider Cup. Put a slice of crumb of bread toasted at the bottom of a large jug; grate haK a small nutmeg over it, and place on it two or three slices of thin lemon-rind and half a dozen lumps of sugar. Poiu- over it two wine-glassfuls of sherry, one of brandy, the juice of a lemon, a bottle of soda-water, and, last of all, a quart of cider. Mix well, put a sprig of borage or balm into it, and add a few limips of pure ice. This should be used as soon as it is made. Time to make, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the brandy, sherry, and cider. Sufficient for a twoquart cup. Cider Vinegar. Put half a pound of sugar into a half gallon jar. Fill it with cider. Shake it well, and lot it ferment for three or four months; the result wiU be two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured vinegar. Probable cost, 5d. per pint. Cinnamon Biscuits. A lisk six eggs with half a pound of sifted sugar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and a wineglassful of rose or orange-flower water. Add about half a pound of flour, to form a paste. Koll this out thin, cut it into little cakes in fancy shapes, and bake them on a buttered tin in a moderate oven. Bake them for about twenty minutes, when they will be lightly browned. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for an ordinary -dish. Cinnamon Cake. Beat the whites of six eggs to a firm froth, and stir in half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, eight ounces of fine flour, and half a poxmd of good butter, oiled but not hot. Mix these lightly together, then add powdered cinnamon enough to colour the cake slightly. Pour the mixture into a weU-buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for one moderate-sized cake. Cinnamon Cake (another way). Mix tkoroughly half a pound of powdered sugar, half a pound of fine flour, half a pound of fresh, butter, a quarter of an ounce ?f powdered cinnamon, the grated peel of a quarter of a small lemon, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a solid froth. If preferred, a glass of brandy or rum may be added. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Two eggs and a cupful of sour cream may be used instead of eight eggs, and the mixture may be spread on a flat, well-buttered tin, instead of being put into a mould. Time, half an houi\ Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cinnamon Cordial, Pour three pennyworth of oil of cinnamon upon eight or nine large Imnps of sugar, and put them into a large bottle Avith a quart of spirits and half a pound ?f sugar boiled to a syrup, with a cupful of water. Shake all well together, and let the bottle remain in a cool place for a few days ; then strain or filter the liquid vmtil it becomes j bright and clear. Bottle for use. Time to infuse, a week. Probable cost, uncertain, dopending on the spirits. Sufficient for one quart of cordial. Cinnamon Drops. Mix haK an oimce of powdered cinnamon, or half a tea-spoonful of oil of cinnamon, with a pound of poimded sugar and half a pint of water ; boil the syrup to a candy height or until it snaps when put into cold water ; then spread it on a large flat dish, well oiled, and score it, before it haidens, into small squares, or di-op it evenly on paper. Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Cinnamon, Essence of. Put two drachms of oil of cinnamon into four ounces of strong spirit. Bottle for use. Sufficient, two or three drops will flavour half a pint of sauce or liquid. Cinnamon Ice Cream. Mix half an ounce ?f powdered cinnamon with half a poimd of sifted sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and half a pint of new milk ; boil the custard over a slow fire, stirring it all the time until it thickens ; then add one pint of thick cream and the juice of a small lemon. Pour into a mould and freeze. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for a quart of ice cream. Cinnamon Sauce. Boil a stick of cinnamon, which has been broken into a dozen pieces, in half a pint of water for half an hour; add two glassfuls of sherry, two bayleaves, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Simmer gently for ten minutes, strain, and serve. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Cinnamon Tablet. This is made in the same way as cinnamon drops, but instead of being scored into small squares or formed into drops, it is marked inta squares of about one inch and a half. CIN ( 139) CLA Cinnamon, Tincture of. Put three ounces of bruised cinnamon into a bottle of the best French brandy. It will be retidy for use in a week. The jjrobable cost will depend upon the quality of the brandy. Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls may be put into a little cold water, or one tea-spoonful into a glass of wine. The latter, if beaten up with the yolk of an egg, and sweetened, is agreeable and restorative. Citron Cake. Mix the well-beaten yolks of six eggs \?ith half a pound of pounded and sifted sugar, and ten ounces of fine lioiu- ; add half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, four ounces of candied citron chopped smaU, a wine-glassful of brandy, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Mix thoroughly, poiu- the mixtui-e into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy. Is. lOd. Sufficient for a medium-sized mould. Citron Pudding. Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour very smoothly with the beaten yolks of si.x eggs. Add very gradually one pint of new milk or cream, a quarter of a pound of citron chopi ed small, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. jMix thoroughly, pour the batter into well-buttered cups, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, from twentj' to thirty minutes. Probable cost, if made ?with milk, Is. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Citron and Almond Pudding. This pudding is made in the same way as the preceding one, with the addition of a dozen sweet almonds blanched and pounded. In both cases, if it is not wished to have a rich pudding, a smaller number of eggs may be used. Civet of Hare. Cut the hare into neat small pieces. Take about half a poimd of streaky bacon, which has been soaked in cold water a little while to make it firm, and divide it into small pieces. Frj- these in a saucepan until lightly browned, add the pieces of hare, and when these also are brown, strain the gravy which has come out, and thicken it with three ounces of flour. Moisten it with a couple of glasses of good stock and port, add a bunch of parsley, half a pint of button onions, half a pint of small mushrooms, two cloves, a tea-spoonful of salt, a drachm of cayenne, and the juice of a Seville orange. Bring the liquid to a boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Reduce the sauce before ser%ang, if necessary. A clove of garlic is often added to the dish. Time, if the hare is young, two and a half to three hours ; if old, a longer time should be allowed. Probable cost of the hare, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Clams. Clams are a kind of cockle, and are to be found on the west coast of Ireland and Scotland, and in Devonshire, Cornwall, and some parts of Wales. Though they figure largely in American cookery, they are not much used in England; but persons living on the sea-shore might make several by no means despicable dishes from them. Soyer says that they "are much superior in flavour to the oyster, and, if eaten raw, should be about the same size ; but, if larger, should be made into soup, or cooked in the same way as the oyster." In America they are stewed. The clams are put into a stewpan, with a little water at the bottom of the pan, then boiled for twenty-five or thirty minutes, the scum carefully removed, and the juice seasoned with pepper and salt. Clams may be fried in batter with egg and bread-crumbs. Clam Soup. Wash as many clams a& may be required, and put them into a saucepan with just sufficient boiling water to keep them from burning. Boil them for a few minutes, and when the shells open and the juice runs out, take the clams from the shells and chep them small. Strain the liquor, and stir into it the chopped clams ; season it with pepper, and thicken with it a little butter rolled in flour, and let it boil a quarter of an hour. Put little pieces of toasted bread in the tirreen before pouring the soup into it. The flavour of the soup may he varied by the addition of onions or celery, or a little milk may be added, or the yolks of well-beaten eggs. Soup may be made in the same wa}' from whelks and cockles. Time, half an hour. Sufficient, a quart of soup forthi-ee persons. Clarendon Pudding. Pour a large breakfast-cupful of boiling milk upon three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and the thin rind of a lemon. Let it stand until it cools ; then stuit gradually into four well-beaten eggs. Remove the crust from two French roUs, cut them into slices, and b itter each slice thickly on both sides. Butter a plain round mould, stick some rasins on the inside in lines, and fill the mould with layers of rolls, raisins, and custard. Soak for an hour, then cover the pudding with a flom-cd cloth and boil or steam it. Time to boil or steam, one hour and a ' haK. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Claret Cup. Pour a bottle of claret into a large jug, and add two glasses of sheiay, brandy, or any wine, spirit, or liquor that may be preferred, and half a glass of marischino. Put in the thin rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let it stand for half an hour till the sugar is dissolved, then put in a sprig of borage, balm, or verbena, or a little sliced cucumber. Just before using, add a bottle of soda or seltzer water and a large piece of ice. Sliced nectarines, peaches, or raspberries may be used instead of lemon-rind. Claret, Mulled. Put two drachms of cinnamon, two di-achms of ground ginger, and two drachms of cloves into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of cold water, six ounces of loaf sugar, and the thin rind of an orange. Boil all to a s Tup, being careful that the scum is removed as it rises; then add two bottles of claret. Take the wine from the fire just before it boils, and serve it at once. Time, aljout half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the claret. Claret Puffs. IMix a pint of claret with the same quantity of thick cream. Add three table-spoonfuls of poimded sugar, or more if liked, and let the mixture stand some hours. CLA ( 140 ) Clil "WTiisk it to a fi'oth, and as it rises take it off andput it on a sieve. "When it lias drained, heap it on a glass dish, and pour some tliick cicam round the puft's to lioat them. Time to stand before whisking, twelve hours. Prohahlc cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the claret. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Claret Sauce, "Wliisk two eggs thoroughly, and put with them a cupful of claret. Put the mixture into a saucepan with half a tea-spoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, and a little pounded cinnamon. WTiisk the sauce over the lire till it is well frothed, and when it is on the point of boiling pour it over the pudding. Claret is an excellent wine for sauces, as it contains very little spii-it and a great deal of flavour. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a small pudding. Clear Soup. Clear soup may be made either from bones and the trimmings of joints, or from fresh meat. At the present day, when butchers' prices are so high, the latter would be, for many families, simply impossible. We give a recipe for both, but we would earnestly recommend those who have not been accustomed to stfiw the bones left from joints, to begin from this time to do so. It is only ignorance, idleness, or extravagance which insists upon the necessity of fresh meat for soup and sauces. Of course, there are exti-aordinary occasions when it may l)e desirable to use fresh meat, but for everyday family use, soup, both nourishing and palatable, may be made from bones, with the addition, if necessary, of a spoonful of Liebig's extract. Clear Soup (made from bones). Take the bones of a piece of roast beef, which should weigh, before cooking, seven or eight pounds, or, if this is not at hand, one pound of fresh bOnes; break them into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan, v dth three quarts of cold water. Let the liquid boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for six hours. Yerj' carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain it, and leave it until the next day. Remove every particle of fat, and put it into the stewpan (being careful to leave any sediment at the bottoni), with a large carrot cut in slices, a tm-nip, an onion, and half a drachm of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin. Let these simmer for another hour and a half; if the liquid is very much reduced, add a little cold water, so as to keep up the quantity to three pints. Season it while boiling with pepper, salt, and a small lump of sugar. Strain it again, and skim it carefully from time to time. In order to make it quite clear and bright, whisk tlio whites of two eggs with half a pint of cold water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it is just wami. Let it boil, and gently lift off the scum as it rises. Draw the stewpan back a little, and keej) it boiling gently for half an hour. Let it stand to settle, and strain it through a jelly-bag two or three times if necessary. It ought to look like sherry\ The white of one egg is required for a quart of soup. Add a tea -spoonful of Liebig's extract, and a little bro \'ning, if the colour is too light, but care must be taken in browning it. This soup may be varied to any extent. Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, green peas, asparagus, vermicelli, or macaroni may bo added, and the soup -will then take the name of the vegetable which is jiut into it. Macaroni and veimicelli should be boiled separately, or they will spoil the clearness. Sufficient for three pints. Probable cost, exclusive of the bones, and for clear soup, 2d. per pint. '" Clear Soup (made from fresh meat). Cut three pounds of the shin of beef, two pounds of veal, and two slices of ham into small pieces, and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan with a lump of butter ; put the bones with the meat, and also a couple of large caiTots and turnips sliced, half a di'achm of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, and an onion stuck "w-ith three cloves. Cover the saucepan, and set it on the fire. Let the meat brown on both sides, and when there is a bro-i Ti glaze at the bottom of the pan, put a little hot water to it. Let it come just to the point of boiling, then add a little cold water. Skim it carefuU}-, and, when nearly boiling, add nif re cold water ; repeat this, and remove the scum till no more rises, and then add three qiiarts of water. Simmer gently by the side of the fire for four or five hours. Strain through a jelly-bag, but do not squeeze or press it at all, and let the liquid remain until the next day, T -hen every particle of fat must be removed, and any sediment or impurities which may be at the bottom of the basin left untouched. When it is to be used, warm it, and, if necessary, clarify it, but if the directions given have been attended to, namely, the meat boiled gently and without ceasing, the scum removed, the liquid gently strained, and the sediment left out, tho soup will be as clear as spring water, and of a bright golden colour. As Avas said in the last recipe this soup may be varied to any extent (see Clear Soup, made from bones). If the vegetables ai-e to be eaten, they must not be boiled with the meat all the time, or the flavour will bo exhausted. Season, while boiling, with pepper, salt, and a piece of sugar. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for two quarts. Cloton Pudding. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of half a lemon. Add, while cold, a quarter of a pound of ground rice, and stir the milk over the fire until it thickens; remove the lemon-rind, and stir into the liquid a piece of butter about tho size of an egg, then pour it into a bowl to cool. "WHiisk four eggs thoroughly, and add them to the pudding, together with two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a wine-glassful of brandy, and twelve sweet almonds blanched and j ounded. Butter a pic-dish rather thickly, pour the mixture in, and lay two or three thin slices of candied citron on tho top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven for half an hour. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Clifton Puffs. Mix together half a l ound each of chopped apples, stoned raisins, , jiicked cun-ants, sifted sugar, and finely-chopped i candied lemon. Add a quarter of a pound of CLO ( HI ) coc sweet almonds blanched and pounded, half a nutmeg grated, and a glass of sherry or brandy. When these are thoroughly mixed, put them into a covered jar for two or three hours, ilake some pastry -with twelve ounces of baked flour, two ounces of ground rice, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and pounded, and a tablespoonful of sifted sugar. Mix these to a paste witli half a pint of water, and the juice of a lemon. Lay it on the baking board, and put half a pound of butter in the middle, turn over the sides, and roll it out, not too thin, then fold it in three, and roll it again, twice repeating ; place another half pound of butter on the pastry in little lumps, which must be sprinkled over with tloui-, the pastry folded in three, then rolled lengthways and sideways, the turning over and rolling to be repeated three times. Let this also stand in a cool place for an hour or two. When it is to be made up, roll it out to the thickness of a penny piece. Divide it into about two dozen squares, place a little of the mixture upon each square, and turn one corner over, wetting and pressing the edges to make them stick, so as to make a threecornered tart. Place them on a well-buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Before serving, they may have a little sugar icingplaced on each puff, and be returned to the oven for a few minutes to dry. Time to bake, one hour or more. Sufficient for two dozen puffs. Probable cost, 2d. each. Clove Cordial. Put two drachms of cassia buds, two di-achms of bruised cloves, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a blade of mace into a bottle, and pour over them a little hot water. Let them remain near the fire, closely corked, for forty-eight hours, then strain the liquid into three pints of spirit, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Two or three diops of prepared cochineal may be added to give the cordial a brighter colour. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for two quarts. ' Cloves, Tincture of. Put three ounces of bruised cloves into a quart of brandy, and lot them soak for a fortnight. Strain, and bottle it for use. Or, dissolve one ounce of fresh oil of cloves in one pint of rectified spirits of wine. The probable cost will depend on the strength and quality of the spirit. Two or three drops -will be sufficient to flavour mulled wine, kc. Coblentz Pudding. Nearly fill an ordinary pie-dish with apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Spread a little finely-sifted sugar over them, and place five or six lumps of butter about the size of a nut amongst them. Cut the very thin rind of a lemon into narrow strips, and strew these over the apples. Then squeeze over them the juic? of the lemon. Pour a pint of boiling milk (in which a little lemon-rind has been soaked) over two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot mixed vith a little cold milk, stir it until quite smooth, sweeten according to taste, pour it over the apples, and bake it a nice brown. The appearance of this pudding will be improved if a little thick custard is laid u xju it, before it is sent to table. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Coburg Puddings. Mix half a pound of fine flour very smoothly with a little water, and add gradually one pint of now milk, half a pound of butter, haK a pound of curx-ants, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, six well-beaten eggs, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and a tablespoonful of brandy. Mix thorouglily, pour the mixture into some well-buttered cups, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Cochineal Colouring. Boil fifteen grains of powdered cochineal in half a pint of water; add a piece of alum about the size of a j nut, and one drachm and a half of cream of tartar. Let the ingredients boil very slowly for half an hour; strain the liquid, and bottle it closely. Keep it in a cool place. It will keep better if three or four lumps of sugar are boiled with it. Sufficient for nearly half a pint. Cock-a-Leekie. Boil a j-oung fowl in two quarts of white stock until it is tender. Take it up and put it aside. "Wash two bunches of fine l(;eks. Trim away the roots, and part of the heads, and cut them into one-inch lengths. Put them into the broth, and add half a povmd of boiled rice, and a little pepper and salt. Boil half an hour. Cut the fowl into neat joints, put it into the soup, boil up, and serve very hot. The above is tiue Cock-a-Leekie Soup. The soup bearing this name is, however, as often sci-vcd without the fowl as with it. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for eij ht or nine persons. Cockles, Boiled. Cockles should be v.-ashed in two or three waters, and the thelLs v,ell scrubbed with a hard brush, then put into salt and water, not over strong, to cleanse themselves. They are best roasted on a tin laid on a stove, and eaten while hot, Avith bread and butter and a little pepper and vinegar. To boil them, put them in a clean saucepan, with a table -spoonful of water at the bottom of the pan, and a clean towel laid over them. Shake the saucepan constantly, to prevent them burning. As soon as the shells open they are cooked enough. They may be di-essed in all the ways, excepting fiying, practised with oysters and mussels. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient, allow one pint for each person. Cockle Sauce. Prepare a gallon o? cockles as for boiling {see the previous recipe). Set them on the fire, and when the shells open, strain the liquid from them, throw the shells away, and strain the liquid tluough muslin, to clear it from sand. Stir in a pint of good melted butter, and add a table-spoonful of vinegar, or the juice of a lemon, and half a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Stir the sauce over the fire for two or three minutes, but do not let it boil, and servo it with cod or haddock. Time, about twenty minutes altogether. Sufficient for four pounds of fish. Probable cost of cockles, 3d. per quart. Cockles, Pickled. Prepare the cockles as for sauce (*(f the previous recipe) ; sti-ain COG ( 142 ) COG the liquid through muslin, and put it into a saucei an -sv-ith an equal quantity of vinegar, a blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of sherry or brandy to every pint of liquid. Let this boil. Put the cockles i)ito bottles, cover them with the liquid, and cork them closely. Time to open the cockles, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Cockles may be used to make fish-sauce when oysters are out of season. Cocoa. ]Mix two tea-spoonfuls of prepared cocoa with a little cold milk, beat it with the back of a spoon until quite smooth, then pomover it equal quantities of boiling milk and water sufficient to fill a breakfast-cup. Stir weU together. The rock cocoa must bo scraped into powder before it is used, then made as above. Time, five minutes. Cocoa Nibs. Cocoa nibs, or shells, are the coverings of the cocoa kernel. They should be soaked in water for twelve hours, then boiled in the same water till it is reduced to half the quantity. When cool, the oily matter should be taken from the top, as it would be likely to disagree with an invalid. It is then served like chocolate. Time to boil, five hours. A quarter of a pound of nibs should be boiled with three quarts of water. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Cocoa-nut Cake. Mix one pound of sifted loaf-sugar with tlu-ee-quarters of a pound of the white part of cocoa-nut grated. Beat the whites of six eggs to a firm froth, and mix all well together. Drop the mixtm-e on paper in rough knobs about the size of a walnut, and bake then in a slow oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient, one dozen and a half for a dessert-dish. Cocoa-nut Candy. Put one pound of the best loaf sugar, broken into lumps, into a saucepan, and pour over it half a pint of spring water. Let it stand for a quarter of an hour, then place it on the fire and allow it to boil for five or six minutes. Remove the scum and boil the sugar until it is thick and white, then stir into it a quarter of a pound of the white of a fresh cocoa-nut finely grated. Stir it unceasingly until it rises in a mass in the pan, then spread it as quickly as possible iipon sheets of paper which have been dried before the fire. Remove the paper before the candy is quite cold. Let it dry, then store it in tin boxes. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, cocoanuts, 4d. or 6d. each. Sufficient, this quantity for a dessert-dish. Cocoa-nut Cheesecakes. Pare off the rind from a fresh cocoa-nut, grate the white part, and put it into a perfectly clean saucepan with its weight in sifted sugar and the milk, or, if this is not quite sweet, two or three spoonfuls of water. Let it boil, stirring it constantly until tender. "When the mixture is cool, add the yolks of two eggs well beaten and a spoonful of orange-flower water. Line some patty pans with good puff paste, and put a little of the mixture into each. Bake in a good oven. Sift a little sugar over the cheesecakes before baking them. Time to boil the cocoa-nut, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. Cocoa-nut Cream. Put a cupful of cold spring water into a saucepan with the thin rind of a quarter of a small lemon, three tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, a small piece of stick cinnamon, and a table-spoonful of the white of the Gocoa-nut sliced. Boil gently to a thick syrup; then add the milk of two cocoa-nuts thickened with a table- spoonful of corn-flour or arrowroot. Let aU boil up together for a minute or two, add a cupful of cream, strain, and stir until cold. Just before serving, put with the cream half a wine-glassful of brandy and three or four ch-ops of ?anilla essepco. Time, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. The above quantities will make about three-quarters of a pint. Cocoa-nut Cream (another way). Put one pound of finely-sifted sugar into a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, stir in the white part of a fresh cocoa-nut lightly grated and the thin rind of a small orange. Let the nut stew until tender. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Cocoa-nut Gingerbread. Put one pound of golden syrup, a quarter of a jjoimd of butter, and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar into a saucepan. Let them heat very slowly until the butter is quite melted, when it must be well nii.xed with the syrup, and the mixture poured into a bowl containing haK a pound of ground rice, half a pound of the best flour, one ounce of ground ginger, a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of baking-powder, the rind of half a lemon cut into small pieces, and one ounce of chopped candied lemon. Mix thoroughly, put the paste on one side, and, when it is quite cold, stir into it the white part of a large cocoa-nut finely grated. When it is well beaten, drop the paste upon a well-buttered tin in small cakes, and bake these in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. per pound. Sufficient, eighteen or twenty cakes for a dessert-dish. Cocoa-nut Macaroons. Take a fresh cocoa-nut, grate it finely, and allow half a pound of finely-sifted sugar and the whites of four eggs beaten to a firm froth to every quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Drop little balls of the paste upon a well-buttered tin about two inches apart from one another. Bake in a moderate oven. Allien the macaroons are lightly browned all over they will be ready. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient, eighteen or twenty for a dessert-dish. Cocoa - nut Milk Flavour. This exceedingly delicious flavouring is obtained by boiling the grated white part of the nut with fresh sweet milk, and it may be used in the composition of biscuits, cakes, custards, blancmanges, &c. To six ounces of the nut finely grated add two quarts of milk. Simmer the liquid slowly to extract the flavour without reducing the quantity of milk. Do not mix the milk from the nut until it has been tasted coc ( 143) COD and found pure and sweet. It should be strained through a line sieve, and the nut squeezed dry. Cocoa-nut Paste. Drain the milk from a large cocoa-nut, pare ofl: the brown skin, and shred the white part as finely as jwssible ; put a pound of sugar into a saucepan with a cupful of water, the shred cocoa-nut, the jidce of half a lemon, and the milk ef the cocoa-nut. Let the mixtui-e boil gently until the nut is quite soft, stirring it occasionally to prevent its burning. Turn it out on a tiat dish, and let it cool. Time, until tender. Probable cost, one nut, 4d. or 6d. Cocoa-nut Pound-cake, Beat 'half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add gradually one pound of tine fiour, one pound of sifted sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, a small pinch of s;ilt, a tea-spoonful of finelychopped lemon-rind, the white part of a cocoajiut finely-grated, four eggs well beaten, and a cupful of new milk. Butter some square tins, ;ind line them with buttered paper, spread the mixture in them about an inch and a half in depth, and bake ixi a good oven. When they are sufficiently baked, spread some sugar icing over them, and return them to the o\-en for a minute or two to dry. Time to bake, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for two or three small cakes, or one lai'ge one. Cocoa-nut Pudding. Mi.x two eggs well beaten with a cupful of new milk and the milk of the cocoa-nut, if the latter is quite sweet. Take off the brown skin of the nut, and grate the white part as finely as possible. Mix it with thi-ee table-spooafuls of finelygrated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, three ounces of beef suet finely shred, six ounces of Muscatel raisins, and a teaspoonful of lemon-rind thinly sliced. Beat all well together, pour the mixtm-e into a wellbuttered pie-dish, and bake it in a rather slow oven. Tm-n it out, and serve with sifted sugar strewn over it. This pudding may be either baked or boiled. Time to bake, one hour and a half ; to boil, three hours. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cocoa-nut Pudding (another way). Take a large, fresh cocoa-nut, remove the brown skin, and grate the white part as finely as possible ; mix verj- thoroughly a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and the gi-ated cocoa-nut ; when they are quite smoothly mixed, add a pint of new milk or cream, five eggs well beaten, a ti:;y pinch of salt, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a good oven. This pudding may be eaten either hot or cold. Time to bake, about forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d., if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cocoa-nut Sauce. Gratefinely the white part of a cocoa-nut, and boil it gently until tender in a cupful of water, in which has been dissolved its weight, before boiling, in sugar; press it through a sieve ; add a cupful of thick cream and the beaten yolk of an egg ; put the mixture on the tire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil; add the juice of a lemon, if this is preferred. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, cocoa-nut, 4d. or Gd. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pudding. Cocoa-nut Soup. Grate very feiely the white of a fresh cocoa-nut, and simmer it gently for an hour in some good stock, allowing a quarter of a jDound of cocoa-nut for every half gallon of stock. Strain the liquid, and thicken it with seme ground rice; half a pound of ground rice will be enough for this quantify. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of mace. Just before serving, draw it from the fire, and add a cupful of thick cream. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost. Is. per quart. Sufficient, this quantity for nine or ten persons. Cocoa-nut Soup (another way). Boil the stock and the cocoa-nut together, as in tlie last recipe. Tliicken the soup with ground lice, being careful to mix it smoothly with a little cold stock or water before putting it into the boiling liquid. Add two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, two table-spoonfuls of soy, a nutmeg grated, and a little salt and cayenne. Just before serving, add a tumblerful of sherry. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost. Is. yev quai-t, exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Cocoa-nut Spongecakes Takealarge fresh cocoa-nut, remove the brown skin, and grate it on a perfectly clean, bright giater as finely as possible ; beat the yollvs of six eggs, and whisk the whites to a solid froth, adding gradually, as it is whisked, half a pound of sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and the yolks of the eggs. Beat the mixture for a quarter of an horn-, then add, by degrees, a quarter of a pound of flour, and the grated cocoa-nut : continue boating till the batter is quite smooth. Line square tins with buttered paper, pom- in the mixtui-e, and bake the cakes immediately in a brisk oven. Do not open the door of the oven until the cakes are baked. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for one moderate-sized cake, or two small ones. Cod. Cod comes into season about the beginning of October, when other large fish are going out. If the weather is cold, it is then very good ; it is at its very best about Christmas, but goes ofl; from the end of January to the end of March. During the latter pait of this month and in April and May it is usually A'ery fine. The best cod are those which are plump and round at the tail, the sides having a ribbed appeaiance, with yellow spots upon a pure skin. In order to ascertain if the fish is fresh, press the finger into the flesh, and if it rises immediately and feels firm and stiff, it is fresli. It is much better not to cook a cod whole. The upper part is so much thicker than the tail that the latter would be boiled to lags before the rest was cooked. The head and shoulders are generally boiled ; the rest may be fried or stowed in slices. Epicures look out for tho sounds, the glutinous parts about the head and the tongue. A little salt should be rubbed COD (144) COD down the bone and. on the lliick pait as soon as the fish comes into the house. Cod. (a la Bechamel). Eemove the flesh from the bones, and break it into convenient jiieces. Put a cupful of white stock nicely seasoned, and a cupful of new milk, into a saucepan ; thicken it with a little flour and butter, put the pieces of tish into it, and let them remain until quite hot, but the sauce must not be allowed to boil. Serve with the sauce and fish in the middle of a hot dish, and place a border of mashed potatoes round it. Time, twenty minutes. Cod (a la Creme). Boil a slice of cod, and, while it is warm, break it into convenient-sized pieces, or the remains of cold cod may be used instead. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, with a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half the rind of a small lemon. Lot it stand by the side of the fire till the milk is hot and the flavour of the lemon and mace is drawn out ; then strain it into a basin. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, and, when it is melted, mix two tablespoonfuls of flour very smoothly with it ; add the millc gradually till the sauce is of the proper thickness; let it boil a few minutes, then put in the pieces of fish. Let them heat through. Serve with sippets of toasted bread. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the fish, 6d. SuSicient for four persons. Cod. (a I'Espagnole). Take one or two slices of cod about an inch in thickness, or the tail end of the cod, remove the skin, dredge a little flour over the fish, and fry it in hot butter or lard until nicely browned. Take it out gently with an egg-slice, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with as much good, brown gravy, boiling, as will swm it. Add a little salt and cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, a lump of sugar, an onion stuck with two cloves, and half a tumblerful of port. Simmer very softly till the fish is sufficiently cooked; take it out, places it on a hot dish, strain the gravy, thickening it with a little browned butter, and serve inmiediately. Claret may be substituted for the port, if preferred, or the \ ne may be omitted altogether, and the sauce flavoured with ketchup. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost of cod, when in full season, 8d. per pound. SuSicient, two slices for four pei-sons. Cod (a la Fran9aise). Take two slices of cod about an inch and a half in thickness. Put them in salt and water for a few minutes, then drain, and fry them in hot butter till they are half cooked. Cover them with good stock, stew them until tender, then place them on a hot dish, and pour over them a j int of sauce, made as follows: Put a breakfast-cupful of nicelyflavoured stock into a saucepan with half the quantity of thick cream; let it boil, draw it from the fire, and add salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of lemon, half a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar, and half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar. Time, altogether, from forty to fifty minutes. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cod (a la ]\Laitre d' Hotel) . Beil two slices of cod, as in the last recipe. Wash some fresh green parsley in two or three waters. Chop it small, and knead two table-spoonfuls of it with two ounces of fresh butter, an ounce of flour, a little salt and cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. Put this mixture into a saucepan, with half a pint of milk, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is on the point of boiling. Add another half ounce of butter, and when it is melted pour the sauce over the tish and serve. The sauce may be made by boiling a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley in a pint of good melted butter. Mix well, season with salt and cayenne, add the juice of half a lemon, and, just before serving, draw it from the fire and add, very gradually, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Time, altogether, about forty minutes. Probable cost, about 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cod (a la Proven ale) , Cold Meat Cookery. Kcmove the skin and bones from the remains of cold cod, and break it into convenient-sized pieces, lilince finely equal quantities of shallot, young onions, or chives, parsley, and lemonpeel. Add a little grated nutmeg, salt, and peppei', and mix all well together with two table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Place this in a pie-dish, put in the pieces of fish, and bake in a mojlorate oven. Serve very hot, with lemonjuice squeezed over the fish. Time, threequai-ters of aa hoiu". Probable cost, 6d.,. exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cod (au Gratin) . Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break the flesh into convenient-sized pieces. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly ; place in it alternate layers of cod and oyster sauce until the dish is full, flavouring each layer with salt, cayenne, and a little powdered mace. Strew fine breadcrumbs over all, and put two or three little pieces of butter here and there. Bake for about half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d., exclusive of the cold cod and oyster sauce. Sufficient, a small dishful for two or three persons. Cod, Baked. Take a piece weighing about three pounds out of the middle of a large cod. Make a stuffing with the sound boiled for twenty minutes, chopped small, and mixed with two ounces of grated bread-crunibs,atea-!5poonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of j owdered thyme, a small tea-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of popper, a little grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Bind all together with a little of the white of the egg. Put this forcemeat inside the fish, and sew it up. Place the fish in a baking-dish, and pour over it enough thin flour and water to fill the dish three parts. Put in a dozen oysters, also a little scraped horse-radish, and a little salt and pepper. Lay three or four lumi s of butter on the fish, put it in the oven, and baste it, frequently. When it is sufficiently cooked, lay, the cod on a hot dish, and garnish it with the oysters. Put the gravy into a saucepan, add to it a tea-s230onful of anchovy sauce, and another of vinegar; boil it, pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost of cod, when plentiful, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. COD (145) COD Cod, Baked (another way). Prepare the fish as iu the last recipe ; brush it over with beaten egy, strew some tinely-gratcd breadcrumbs on it, and put it in a dish with three or foul- lumps of butter on it. Baste it frequently, and turn it over that it may be equally cooked throughout. Some persons place the fish on a drainer over a deep dish, in whi h is placed a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a cupful of water, and the juice of a lemon. The fish is then basted fiequently with butter, but it must not touch either the vegetables or the water. Serve either with melted butter, oyster siiuce, shiimp sauce, or sauce supreme. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound when in full season. Sufiicient for hve or six persons. Cod, Boiled. In cold weather cod is better for being kept a day, as, if cooked quite fresh, it may prove watery. A large cod-fish should not be cooked whole, the head and shoulders make a good dish by themselves, though the middle contains more solid meat. Wash and cleanse the inside of the fish with great nicety, and especially the back-bone ; put it into plenty of cold water, in which a handful of salt has been thrown, bring it to a boil, skim it carefully, let it boil gently, and, when it is nearly cooked, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it remain until done. Put it on the fish-plate over the boiling water, and let it drain for a minute or two, and dish it on a hot napkin, with the roe and liver, which should bo boiled separately, a Little scraped horse-radish, or fried oysters, as garaish. Oyster or anchovy sauce, or plain molted butter, may be served with it. Time to boil, twenty minutes for a .moderate-sized piece, longer for a large one. When the flesh leaves the bone easily the fish is cooked enough. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, four pounds for six persons. ? Cod, Cold. The remains of cod may be used in various ways. One thing, however, should be attended to, and that is to remove the flesh from the skin and bones before it is quite cold. AVhen this is done the cod may be simply ' arranged in neat flakes on a plate, ] eppcrcd, a little \'inegar poured over it, and the fish gami.shed with parsley, and served thus, it will not be a despicable addition to the breakfast-table, though further trouble will be amply repaid. If any cold sauce is left, it may be poured over the fish, bread-crumbs or mashed potatoes spread on it, a piece of butter dotted here and there, and the whole browned in a good oven, or before the fire {see Fish Pudding). It may be served with macaroni (see Cod and Macaroni). It may be made into cakes, and served as cutlets {gee Cod-fish Cakes). It may be moulded {see Fish jNIould). It maybe stewed, and served with maitre d' hotel sauce, Italian sauce, or supreme sauce. It may bo curried, cooked with grated Pamiesan, or with bechamel, or bro 'a sauce, or served au gratin, a la Proven(,'ale, or as a mayonnaise. The pieces may be put into a stewpan, taking care not to omit the sound, the tongue, or the eatable parts about the head. Any sauce that may be left may then be poured over it, a lump of butter added, and a dozen osvters -with their liquor, or nmssels, or cockles, or a few shrimps. The preparations may then bo heated gently, put into a dish, bread-crumbs strewed over, and browned. In numerous ways cold cod, or cold fish of any kind, may be, with a little trouble and attention, presented again at table, and will form a palatable and pleasing dish. Cod, Crimped. Make some deep cuts as far as the bones on both sides of a perfectly fresh cod, making tlie cuts at two inches distance, and cut one or two gashes on the cheeks ; then lay the fish in cold water, with a tablespoonful of vinegar in it, for an hour or two. It may afterwai-ds be boiled or fried. If it is to be boiled, it should be plunged at once into boiling water, and then simmered gently. Crimping renders the flesh fiimer, and makes it better both to cook and to serve. Cod, Croquettes of. Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and mince one pound very finely with one dozen oysters, or two dozen cockles, a little pepper and salt, and four ounces of finely-gi-ated bread-crimibs ; work the mixture well together I \\ith a Httle cream, and make it up into balls about Ihe size of an egg; dip these in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, fry them in a little hot I laid till lightly browned, and serve them piled I high in a dish, and garnished with parsley. ! Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., j exclusive of the cold cod and oysters. Allow I two croquettes for each person. 1 Cod, Curried. Put a piece of butter j about the size of a large egg into a saucepan, let I it melt, then fry in it three pounds of cod cut into pieces about two inches square, two large I onions, and one apple cut into thin slices, a teaspoonful of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let them remain untU the onions are nicely browned, then, add a breakfast-cupful of good stock, a teaspoonful of curiy powder, a tea-spoonful of cuny j paste, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice mixed ! smoothly with a little of the stock. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, add a small cupful of cream, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper. Put the cod on a hot dish, and the gra y over it, and ser ?e with a waU of rice roimd the dish. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six pei'sons. Cod, Curried (another way). Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, break it into flakes, and fry it a golden brown in some hot dripping or lard. Drain it, and fry some sliced onions in the same fat, put them M-itli the fish, and stir into the fat some rice flour. Mix it quite smoothly, and add by degrees sufiicient stock to make the saiico of the consistency of cream; add a tea-spoonful of curry powder, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and two or throe grains of cayenne. Put the cod and onions with the curry, and let it simmer for a few minutes. Place the fish on a hot dish ; add a small cupful of cream to the gravy, let it nearly boil, then pour it over the fish, and f- en-e with "a wall of rice or not. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclu.sivo of the cold fish and the cream. Sufiicient, ?no pound of cold fish vdth. sauce, for three persons. COD ( 146) COD Cod-flsh Cakes. Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and weigh the meat. To every pound of cod allow one pound and a half of mashed potatoes, a teaspoonfid of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of thyme, half a tea-spoonlul of chopiX)d onion, one egg, and sufficient milk to bind the mixture together. If the fish is salted, the salt must be omitted. Make the paste up into small cakes about an inch thick, fry them in hot butter or lard till they are well browned on both sides, and serve them as hot as possible. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold fish. Allow two or three cakes for each person. Cod, Head and Shoulders of. Wash the fish thoroughly, rub a little salt on the inside of it, and bind tape round the cheeks to prevent them breaking, if the fish is crimped, it COD FOR TABLE. Cod for Table. A small cod is frequently boiled whole ; but in a large fish, the head and shoulders arc the most edible portions. It should be dished carefully, so as not to break it, upon a very hot napkin, and garnished with the liver and roe. Tufts of horse-radish, slightly grated, are generally placed round the dish. Oyster sauce and melted butter should be served with it. Anchovy sauce may be used if oysters are not in season. Cod, Fried. The tail end of the cod is best cooked in this manner, as it is not much es- teemed when boiled. Steaks may be cut from the middle and served in this way also. Cut the fish into slices rather more than an inch thick, wash them well and dry them thoroughly in a clean cloth. Roll them in flour, and sprinkle a little salt and grated nutmeg over them. Plunge them into boiling lard, and fry them till they are lightly browned on both sides, and the flesh parts easily from the bone. Put them on a piece of clean blotting paper to clear them from fat ; serve them on a hot napkin, and send them to table garnished with parsley and accompanied with melted butter or anchovy sauce. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, when plentiful. Sufficient, three pounds for four or five persons. Cod, Fried (Cold Meat Cookery). Take the remains of cold cod. Break it into l ieccs about two inches long and one broad, and dip each into a light batter. Fry them in hot lard or dripping. Put them on ijlotting paper t 5 clear them from the fat, pile them on a dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Time, three or four minutes to fry. COD S HEAD AND SHOTTLDEKS. may be plunged into hot water, if not, cold must be used, but it must be poured very gently over the cod so as not to break the skin. A table-spoonful of salt should be allowed for every three quarts of water. As soon as the water boils, di-aw the kettle on one side, remove the scum carefully, and let the fish simmer gently till it is ready. Drain it well, and serve on a hot napkin with the roe and liver, which should be cooked separately, and a little horseradish and sliced lemon for garnish. Vhen the flesh parts easily from the bone the fish is ready. Send oyster or anchovy sauce and melted butter to table with it. The time to boil will depend on the size, quality, and age of the fish ; a small, young head and shoulders will not require more than twenty minutes ; and a large, old, solid one may take forty. Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. per pound. Suflficient for six or seven persons. Cod Head, Browned. A cod's head in London is usually sold and seiwed with the shoulders, but in some places it is cut off, and the rest of the fish retailed by the pound. As the head contains one or two of the titbits, namely, the tongue, the nape of the neck, and the gelatinous parts about the checks, it makes a very good dish. Take two or three heads, remove tlae eyes, wash the heads, drain them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them lie an hour or two ; put them into boiling water, and boil them from ten to twenty minutes, according to the size. Take them out, drain them, remove the skin, and dredge a little flour equally over them. Place them before a clear fire, and baste them well \?ith good dripping or butter. "When they are liglitly bro-\vnod they are ready. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. For sauce, thicken a breakfast-cupful of the liquid in which the heads wore boiled, with a himp of butter rolled in flour. Boil this, stirring it all the time, till it is quite smooth ; add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost of cod's head, 2d. each. Sufficient, two or three for a dish. Cod Mould. Take the remains of cold cod or any cold fish, weigh it, and with one pound of fish mix three table-spoonfuls of COD ( 147) COD bread-crumbs, a table - spoonful of anchovy sauce, and a little salt and cayenne. If any sauce remains it may be used instead of the anchovy. Pound all well in a mortar, -with a little butter and the yolk of an egg. Press the mixture into a well-buttered mould ; cover it with a plate, and steam it for three-quarters of an hoirr. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for three persons. Cod Pie, Fresh. Take a deep pie-dish, and fill it three-parts with pieces of fresh cod about t ?o inches square. Season it with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, lay two dozen oysters on the top, and put two or three lumps of butter over it. Cover it with a good crust, and bake it in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about forty minutes. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, when plentiful. A pie made with thi'ee pounds of cod, and two dozen of oysters, will be sufficient for six persons. Cod Pie, Salt. Soak the cod for twelve hours, and sinmier it for a quarter of an hour. Cut it into pieces about two inches square. Take a deep pie-dish ; place a layer of sliced potatoes half boiled at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of fish, then one of partly -boiled onions sliced. Put a little pepper and poimded mace on each layer, and a lump of butter, but, of course, no salt. Make some good melted butter, and mix with it a little made mustard, a tablespoonful of ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Pour this over the pie, cover it with a good crust, and bake it in a brisk oven. Mashed potatoes may be spread over the top of the pie, instead of pastiy, if preferred. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of salt fish, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a moderate-sized pie for thi-ee or four persons. Cod Roe. Parboil the roe, in salt and water, and vinegar. Cut it into thin slices, and dip each slice into frj-ing batter. Fry in hot butter or oU until lightly browned. Drain, and serve them on a hot napkin, with a garnish of sliced lemons and parsley. Time to boil the roe, eight minutes ; to fry, eight minutes. Allow three or four slices for each person. Cod, Salt (a la Fran aise). Choose cod which has not been very long salted. Soak it and simmer for a quarter of an hour. When sufficiently cooked, drain the fish, and remove the skin and bone ; break the flesh into flakes, put them in a stewpan, and stir them quickly oyer the fire for five or six minutes, adding oliveoil, a little at a time, until a smooth paste is formed. Take it from the fire, add a little thick cream, and cayenne, and if the flavour is liked, some pounded garlic. Place the mixture on a dish, and ser\-e it with toasted sii pets. Time to heat the fish with the oil while stirring it, five or six minutes. Probable cost of salt fish, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for three or four persons. Cod, Salt, Pried. Soak and simmer the cod as in the preceding recipe ; drain it, and divide it into large flakes. Fr\' two large onions cut into thin slices in a Kttle butter, and, when lightly browned, drain them. Thicken the butter with a little flour, and when verj- smooth add gradually a little new mill;: or cream until the sauce is as thick as a custard. Let the onions heat once more in the sauce, and season them with a little cayenne. Fiy the flakes of fish until lightly browned. Place them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over them. Time to sinmier the salt cod, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. One povmd of cod with sauce will serve for thi-ee or four j persons. I Cod, Salt, with Parsnips (a dish for [ Ash Wednesday). Salt cod is usually accomj panied by parsnips, probably because that I wholesome root is at its best and sweetest during i the course of Lent, and it is very generally served with them and egg sauce on Ash Wednesday. Wash the fish thoroughly, and lay it in cold water to draw out the salt. It must lie for at least twelve hours, and longer if it is I very salt, and the water ought to be changed I every four- or five hours. When thoroughly ! soaked, put it in a saucepan with plenty of j cold water, and let it heat very gradually. It must not be allowed to boil, or it will harden. I When nearly boiling, draw it to the side of the ! fire, and let it simmer gently for about twentj j minutes. Drain it, and serve it unbroken on a hot napkin, accompanied by mashed parsnips and egg sauce {see Egg Sauce). Time to soak, from twelve to forty-eight hours, according to the dr -ness and saltness of the fish. Probable cost, 6d. jier jjound. Cod Sound as Chicken. Soak and wash three large sounds (see Cod Sound, Boiled), and boil them in milk and water for half an hour. Scrape oft' the dark skin, and let them cool. Make a forcemeat with a dozen chopped oysters, three ounces of finely-grated breadcrumbs, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of white pepper, a blade of mace pounded, two chopped anchovies, and three ounces of butter. Work all well together with the yolks of i two eggs, spread the forcemeat tliinly over the I soimds, and truss each one as nearly as possible ! in the form of a chicken. Dredge a httle flour j over them, and cook them in a Dutch oven, j basting them well with butter or lard. Ser\'e with oyster sauce poured over them. To roast, I twenty minutes. Piobable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cod Sound, Boiled. Cod sounds are much liked by many persons, and may always be procured salted. They are convenient when kept in store in country houses, though, on account of the necessary soaking, they cannot be served in a hurrj-. Put them into plenty of cold water all night, then scrape and rub oif the dark skin with a cloth, wash them thoroughly, and put them in a stewpan with equal parts of milk and water, and boil them very gently imtil teoder. Be careful to remove the scum as it lises. Serve them on a hot napkin, with egg sauce. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. 0 .e pound will be enough for four persons. Cod Sound, Broiled. Prepare the sounds as in the preceding recipe. Scrape COD ( H8) COD them clean, and simmer for half an hour ; rub them with butter, and dredge with ilom-. Reason with salt and white pepper, and put them on the gridiron over a clear fire to broil, ilake half a pint of good melted butter, and mix A\dth it a tea-spoonful of mustard, a dessert-spoonful of soy, and a di-achm of cayenne pepper. Heat it, and pour it over the broiled sounds. Time, about forty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per po ond. Sufficient, a quarter of a poimd for each person. Cod Sound, Fricasseed. Soak, scrape, and boil as many cod sounds as may bo required. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with sufiicient white stock to cover them ; season the sauce with salt, pepper, and powdered mace, thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and, just before serving it, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Serve with toasted sippets. Time to boil, half an hour. Sufiicient, a quarter of a pound for each person. Probable cost, Gd. per pound. Cod Soiind Pie. Take equal weights of boiled cod sounds, hard-boiled eggs, and boiled cod. Place these ingredients in layers in a deep pie-dish, season them with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, and pour some good oyster sauce over all. Cover with a good crust, and bake the pie in a moderate oven. It may be used either hot or cold. Probable cost of sounds, 6d. per pound. Time, threequarters of an hour for a moderate-sized pie. Cod, Stewed. The tail of a cod is sometimes boiled like the rest of the fish, but it rarely proves a satisfactory dish, and is much better stewed or fried. Cut three pounds of cod into slices about an inch and a half in thickness, and fry these lightly in butter or good dripping. Drain them from the fat, and put the slices into a stewpan with a pint of good stock, as much pounded mace as would he on a fourpcnny piece, and a pinch of cayenne ; add three oimces of butter rubbed smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour, a dessert-spoonful of anchovy essence, a glass of sherry, and the juice of half a small lemon. Simmer for eight minutes, then add a dozen and a half of oysters chopped small, with their liquor. Simmer two minutes more. Place the slices of cod on a hot dish, poiu' the sauce over, and serve immediately. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of cod, when in full season, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Cod and Macaroni. Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break it into small pieces. Take its weight in macaroni, and boil it until tender ; drain, and cut it into short lengths of an equal size. Make a little good melted butter, allowing a pint for a pound of cod and a pound of macaroni; season it with salt, cayenne, and the juice of a lemon : let it boil, draw it from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Put the fish and macaroni with the sauce, and when they are quite hot, put the whole into a hot dish. The sauce must not boil after the egg is put in. Cover the mixture with grated bread-crumbs, and brown the top with a salamander or in a brisk oven. Time, one hour. Cod and Parmesan Cheese. Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break the flesh into convenient-sized pieces, not very small. Make a little good wliite sauce, wai-m the pieces of cod in it, drain them, and dip each piece in beaten egg, breadcrumbs, anil Parmesan cheese. Thicken the gravy with a little arrowroot or fine flour: keep it hot in the saucepan. Fry the pieces of fish in some hot butter until lightly browned, pour the sauce over them, and serve the whole as hot as possible. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufiicient, as much fish as will rec uire a pint of sauce, for foiu- or five persons. Cod, with Mashed Potatoes. Take the remains of cold cod and its weight inmashed potatoes, remove the skin and bones, and to eveiy pound of fish allow one tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and one or two grains of cayenne ; pound all together to a smooth paste, with a little butter, oil, or cream. Place the mixture in a wellbuttered dish, roughen the top with a fork, and bake it in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost for cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for thi'ee or four persons. , Codling Soup. Take two or three codlings, lemove the flesh from the bones, and put them with the lieads into thi-ee quarts of good veal stock; add a bunch of savoury herbs and a large onion stuck with thi'ee cloves. Simmer the soup gently for two hours, then strain it, return it to the stewpan, and thicken it with a Imiip of butter rolled in flom*. Put the sHces of fish into the soup, with a glass of sherry, a tea-spoonf al of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two grains of cayenne. Simmer for twenty minutes, then serve at once. A dozen oysters, with their liquor, is an improvement to the soup. Probable cost, lOd. per quart, exclusive of the wine and oysters. Sufficient for six persons. Codlings, Sauce for. Cod and codlings should be sent to table with oyster sauce and good melted butter. The melted butter should be of the consistency of light batter, as it has to be flavoured either with essence of anchovy, lemon-juicc,ChilivLnegar, or mushroom ketchup. A good sauce for boiled cod is made as follows : Simmer very gently together, for half an hour, a cupful of water, a cupful of vinegar, two shallots, and a tea-spoonful of the essence of ancho-vdes. Strain the liquid, and add two table-spoonfuls of good cream, and the wellbeaten yolks of two eggs. The sauce must not be allowed to boil up after the eggs are added. Codlings, To Dress. Codlings may be either baked, boiled, or fried. To haJcc them : Flour the fish, salt and pepper it, and lay it in a pan with a quart of water, an onion stuck with four or five cloves, and a bunch of sweet lierbs. Put a piece of butter on the top, and bake it in a moderate oven. "V 'hen sufficiently cooked, take out the fish carefulh', strain the gravy, thicken it with a little flour, and add a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchoWes and two table-spoonfnls of Harvey's sauce. Let it boil, pour it round the fish, and garnish with COP ( 149) COP slices of lemon. To boil: put the fish into boiling -water, and let them boil very gentlj' until tlic ilesh leaves the bone easily. Serve vith parsley or anchovy sauce. To fry : Eub the codlings with flour, then brush them well with egg, dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot lard or dripping. Vhen a thick smoke rises from them they will be ready. Drain them from the fat, and serve with shrimp or oyster sauce. Time : to bake, three-quarters of an hour ; to boil, a quarter of an hour; to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, one codling for two persons. Probable cost, 8d. or Is. each. Coffee. This beverage wliich is so highly esteemed on the continent, and the appreciation of which is becoming more general e ?ery year in our own land, is often made so badly that it loses its delicious aroma and invigorating qualities, and produces only nausea and indigestion. There are numberless recipes for making it, and every one considers his plan the best, but surely it is iDroved that some enlightenment on this .subject is necessary, when a cup of really good coffee is a most difficult article to obtain, and the quality of that which is commonly drunk in this country is very inferior. The first thing to be attended to is to have the material good. The best plan is to buy a large quantity raw, and to keep it for years before using it, roasting a little as it is required, as the quality of the berry improves with keeping. This, however, is not convenient in many houses, and therefore in ordinary circumstances it is quite as satisfactory and much less troublesome to buy the ben-ies already roasted of some firstclass dealer. Though not always roasted, however, the coft'ee should always be ground at home, immediately before it is wanted. When once the ben-y is ground, the aroma quickly escapes. The berries should be put into the oven for a short time to warm before they aie ground. Besides being particular about the quality of their coft'ee. Englishmen have to learn not to be .sparing of tlic quantity. The continental allowance is a cupful of freshlygTOund coft'ee for throe cupfuls of liquid. Tliis may, of course, be considered extravagant and unnecessary, but one thing is certain, if the coffee is not strong the aroma is lost. The finest sugar shoidd always be served v-dth coffee, and boiling milk or cream as well as cold. When, for purposes of economy, a cheap coft'ee is purchased, the flavour maj' be improved by the addition of a small quantity of chicoiy, but it should bo bought separately, and mixed at home, and not more than tv, o ounces of chicory powder put with one pound of coft'ee. The effect of chicory is to impai't a slight bitterness to the coffee, and to darken its colour, and it is considered by many persons an improvement ; but this is not pure coft'ee. Coffee and Milk {see Cafe au Lait). Coffee, Black {see Cafe Xoir). Coffee, Breakfast. Where coffee has to be made for only one or two persons, it is good to have a percolator, as this insirres the coft'ee being clear and good. But when it has to be made for a large family, this plan would be found rather inconvenient, owing to the slowness with wliich the liqiud runs ovit of the tap. Coft'ee may be very easily made in the following manner : Fit a small muslin bag inside the top of the coft'ee-pot. Poirr a little boilingwater through this, and, when the pot is quite hot, pour it off, and put the freshly-ground coft'ee into the bag. Pour boiling water gradually over it, and when the water is all drained I through, remove the bag and send it to table. i It should be remembered that the water should i be poured on a little at a time, or the strength I of the powder \rill not be thoroughly extracted. I AVhen it can be done, coffee should bo sent to I table in the same pot in which it was made, as j tliis will prevent its getting cool ; and coffee for breakfast is notliing to speak of if it is not hot. ; Time, two or throe minutes. Proljable cost, Mocha coft'ee, 2s. per pound. Sufficient, allow a heaped table-spoonful of freshly-ground coffee for every brealcfast-cupful of boiling water. Coffee, B\irnt (the French "Gloria"). This coffee should be served in small cups, and be made as strong and clear as possible, and sweetened, almost to a syrup. At the last moment a little brandy should be poured gently over it on a spoon, fire set to it, and when the spirit is partly consumed, the flame blown out, and the coifee drunk quite hot. Allow a cupful for each person. Probable cost, 6d. per cup. Coffee Cream. Make a breakfast-cupful of strong, clear coft'ee ; add half a i int of boiling cream to it ; beat them weU together ; sweeten with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and, when cool, add a small pinch of salt, the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and the whites of two. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, to thicken it, pour it into glasses, and serve with a little sifted sugar on the toj) of each glass. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Coffee Custard. IMix thoroughly a cupful of strong, clear coft'ee, with four times the quantity of boiling milk, three table- spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and a good pinch of salt ; mix in very gradually the yolks of five eggs, well beaten. Stir the custard over a moderate fire until it thickens, pour it into cups, and serve cold. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. Coffee, Essence of, to prepare. Pour a breakfast-cupful of boiling milk over a dessert-spoonful of the essence of coffee, and stir the mixture until it is smoothly blended. It is a good plan to keep the essence of coft'ee in the house when any one is in the habit of leaving early in the morning. With it a comforting cup of coft'ee may be made with very little trouble in a short time. Sufficient, thi-ee dessert -si;)Oonfuls for a breakfast-cupful. Probable cost, Is. lOd. per pint bottle. Coffee, French method. Pom- a pint of boiling water upon two and a half ounces of freshly-ground coffee. Put the lid on the coft'ee-pot, and place it on the hob to simmer gently without boiling. Stir it occasionally, and at the end of two hours, take it off the COF ( 150) COL fire, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour to clear. Pour the coffee into the cups, and serve with milk and sugar. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. Sufficient for one pint of cofi'ee. Coffee, Ice Cream. Mix a breakfastcupful of strong clear coffee with another one of boiling milk, six table-spoonfuls of finelysifted sugar, and the yolks of six eggs. Stir the I custard over a moderate fire until it thickens, 1 then add a pint of thick cream, pour it into a movdd, and freeze the preparation. Time, about i half an hour to freeze. Sufficient for a quart [ of ice cream. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. ' Coffee Jelly. Pour a pint of boiling ; milk through a nauslin bag containing three ' ounces of freshly-ground coffee. Put one ounce and a haK of " soaked gelatine into a sauce- ! pan with a pint of cold milk, an inch of stick j cinnamon, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. ? Let it boil, and stir it until the gelatine is dis- ?? solved. lilix the yolks of two eggs with the coffee, strain the "milk and gelatine upon it, pour it into a mould which has been immersed in cold water, and let it remain in a cool place until stiff. It will stiffen in about twenty-four hours. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for rather more than a quart of jeUy. Coffee, Soyer's Mode of Making. M. Soyer, the French cook's, way of making coffee 'was to warm the freshly -ground coffee, mixed with a soup(,'on of chicory, over the fire, stirring it until it was quite hot. He then poured the boiling water upon it, allowed it to stand for ten minutes, and served it with milk and sugar. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of coffee and a quarter of an ounce of chicory for every three quarts of water. Probable cost, 6d. per quart, with milk and sugar. Coffee, To Grind. Coffee should not be grouad too finely, or it -will be difficult to make the liquid clear. It ought to be ground immediately before it is used. Nothing so soon loses its flavour as coffee when it is powdered, and especially if it is left uncovered. If chicory is added, two ounces %iU be enough for one pound of coff'ee. SmaU coffee niills for domestic use are sold everywhere. Time to grind, a few minutes. Sufficient, a pound of raw berries when roasted and ground will produce thirteen ounces of ground coffee. Coffee, To Roast. To roast coffee properly, a suitable apparatus, which is made for the purpose, should be purchased. There are two or three different kinds, and the price varies, the cheapest being about 8s. Manypersons, however, who have a prejudice in favour of roasting their own coff'ee, and do not possess a " drmn," use an iron saucepan with a closelyfitting lid. If this is done, great care will be required, or the coffee will either be burnt, in which case the aroma will be destroyed, or not sufficiently roasted, and then the flavour wiU not be fiilly developed. It is a good plan to wash the berries before roasting them, it not only cleanses them, but tests their quality. Those which float on the top ef the water are not good. The berries must afterwards be carefully dried, both in a cloth ajid in the tin. To roast them, put a little piece of perfectly fresh sweet butter about the size of a walnut into tlie pan with three pounds of berries. Place the lid on, and shake the saucepan about continually, until a slight smoke arises. Then diaw the saucepan back, and stir the berries about with a wooden spoon till they are lightly and equally browned, to the colour of cinnamon. Spread them on a flat dish, and throw a thick cloth over them. WTien quite cold put the berries into dry bottles, and cork them closely. It is a good plan t? buy a large quantity of raw berries, and roast two or three pounds as requii-ed. The coffee berry ought not to be roasted until it is three years old, and it improves with keeping. The fire should be clear and bright, but n?t fierce, or half a minute -\vill burn it. M COLANDERS. Colander. The colander is a basin with handles, and perforated holes at the bottom and sides. It is used for straining vegetables, &c., and is brought into daily use in almost every household. Colanders are made of tin and earthenware; the tin ones are the more durable, but the earthenware are the sweeter of the two, excepting when quite new. Probable cost. Is. to 4s. Colcannon. Boil separately equal weights of young cabbage, savoy, or spinach, and potatoes. Chop the greens and mash the potatoes, and mix them well together with a little pepper and salt, and one ounce of butter to one pound of the mixed vegetables. Heat the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, stirring it all the time ; then press it into a hot, well-buttered mould. Turn out and serve. Or, press it after mixing inte a well-buttered mould, and put it into the oven for half an hour. Turn out and serve. Cold vegetables may be warmed up in this way. Probable cost, 6d. for a pint mould. Sufficient for tkree or four persons. Cold Pudding. Butter a plain round mould, and ornament it with raisins and sliced candied citron. Put a little orange or apricot marmalade on some ladies' fingers, place them in the meuld, and pour over them some nicelyflavoured custard. Let them soak for half an hour, then cover the basin, tie them in a cloth, and steam gently for one hour and a half. Turn the pudding out when it is cold, and serve it with a little sherry. Probable cost. Is. 4d. for a medium-sized pudding. Sufficient for four persons. Collared Meat. To collar meat is to preserve it so that it -ftill keep much longer than when fresh, when well seasoned, sliced, pickled, and rolled. Meat thus prepared makes a nice breakfast or luncheon dish. It should COL ( 151 ) COL be kept in a cool plac? in a mould with a weight ujion it. Calf's head, pig's head, veal, beef, tongues, and fish can all be prepared in this way, and are generally highly approved. College Puddings. Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix -w-ith it six ounces of well- washed currants, six ounces of sifted sugar, half a poimd of finely-grated breadcrumbs, three table-sijoonfuls of sugar, a desertspoonful of chopped lemon-rind, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, thi'ee eggs well beaten, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Form the mixtm-e into Uttle puddings about the size and shape of a largo duck's egg. lioU them in a little flour, and fry them, till lightly browned, in plenty of lard or butter over a clear but not too strong a fire. Di-ain them from the fat, and serve them, jailed high on a hot napkin, with wine sauce. Time to fry, from twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient for eight puddings. Probable cost, l. d. each. College Pudding, Baked. Blanch and pomid four ounces ef sweet and half a dozen bitter almonds. Mix them with six table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and a quarter of a jwund of sweet butter. Beat all well together, then add the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, and a wine-glassful of brandy. When well beaten, pom- the mixture into a pie-dish over a layer, about an inch thick, of apricot or any other jam. Bake in a good even. If preferred, the dish may be lined with a good puif paste before laying in the jam. Time to bake, one hour and a haK. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. College Puddings, Baked (another way). These puddings, which are generally served fried, as in the last recipe, are much nicer baked. WTien this is done, they should have another egg, or a table-spoonful of milk added to make them Hghter. Pour the mixture into well-buttered cups, and bake in a moderate oven for about twentj- minutes. Before ser\-ing, tiuTi the puddings out of the cups, and sift a little pounded sugar over them. Probable cost. Is. Id. Sufficient for eight puddings. Collier's Roast. The collier's roast is the name given in Scotland to a leg of mutton which has been put into pickle {se'e Pickle) for a few days before it is roasted. It is then cooked as usual, carrots and turnips being sent to table with it. Collops, Beef. Take two pounds of tender beef steak, and cut it into rounds about three inches -n-ide and three-quarters of an inch thick. Dredg-e a little flour over these, and fry them in hot butter or dripping till they are lightly browned on both sides. Put them into a stewpan -with a pint of good gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of capers bruised, a tea-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and two pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Simmer gently for ten or twelve minutes, and send to table as hot as possible. Probable cost, beef. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Collops, Beef, with Onions. Prepare the meat as in the last recipe. Dredge the collops with flour, and put them in the frvingpan with six or eight large onions cut" into rounds, and four ounces of butter, lard, or dripping. Pepper them, and when they are browned, cover the pan closely. Before serving, take out the meat, put it on a hot dish, add half a cupful of 'boiling water, and a table-spoonful of ketchup to the onions. Boil up, and pour the sauce round the meat. Time, twenty to thirty minutes, or mitil the onions arc tender. Probable cost, beef, Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Collops, Minced, Scotch. Mince beef very small, salt and pepper it, and put it, while raw, into small jars, and pour over it soino clarified butter. When wanted for use, pxit the clarified butter into a frying-pan, slice some onions into the pan, and fry them ; add a little water, and put in the minced beef. Simmer it gently, and in a few minutes it wiU be fit to serve. Probable cost of beef. Is. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds make a good dish. Collops, Savoury, Minced. Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, and mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it ; keep stirring the paste till it is lightly browned, then add a httle pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of savoiuy herbs. Mix well together, and when nieely browned, put with it a pound and a half of steak finely minced. Move it about with a fork to prevent its getting into lumps, and when it is quite hot, pour into it .a breakfast-cupful of IjoiHng water. Simmer very gently for ten minutes; before sei-v-ing, add the juice of a small lemon, or a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Probable cost. Is. Id. per poimd. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. Collops, Savoury (to imitate Game). Prepare collops as in the recipe for Beef Collops. After they are browned, put them into a saucepan, cover them with good gravy, season rather lightly with salt and pepper, and add a httle pounded mace. Thicken the gravy by putting with it a lump of butter rolled in flour, and simmer the collops gently for three-quarters of an hour. Before ser\'ing, take out the meat, put it on a hot dish, and pom- a table-spoonful of muslrroom ketchup and a wine-glass of port to the gravy. Let it boil, then pour it over the meat. Send red currant jelly to table with the meat. Probable cost. Is. id. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for fom- persons. Collops, Scotch. Cold meat as well fresh meat may be used for collops. Cut some pieces from the fillet of veal about two inches wide and half an inch thick, and sprinkle over them some salt, white pepper, and poimdedmace. Fry them in some hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned, then lay thtm in a stewpan, dredge some flour thickly over them, and add as much good stock as will cover the veal. Put it on the fire, bring it to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer it gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take out the veal, lay it on a hot dish, add to the gravy the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of claret, and two or three grains of cayenne ; boil the sauce once more, pour it over the meat, and COL ( l-'5*-i ) CON serve. Prolxiblc cost, Gd., exclusive of the cold meat. SutKcient, two pounds for five persons. CoUops, Scotch, White. Prepare the veal as in tlie last recipe. Fry it in bacon-fat if it can bo had, if not, in butter, lard, or good dripping. When lightly browTied, put it into a stewiwii, cover it with good real stock, thicken this with a lump of butter rolled in fieur, and add a cupful of cream and a glass of sherry. Simmer gently for twenty minutes in the gravy. Place the meat on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over it. Time, five minutes to fry the collops. Sufficient, two pounds for five persons. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold meat. Colouring. Broicn. It is a very usual practice witli common cooks to make the brown colouring as it is wanted by burning a little sugar in an iron spoon, and stirring it into the soup or sauce. By this means the llavoui- is almost sure to be spoilt. Much the better plan is to make a little browning, and keep it stored for use. It will keep for years. Proceed as follows: Crush a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to powder, put it into a saucepan with a table-spoonful of water, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire, with a wooden spoon, imtil it begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it b;:.ck and bake it very slowly, still stirring it, until it is almost black, without being in the least bm-nt. It will take about half an hour. Pour a quart of vvater over it, let it boil for a few minutes until the sugar is quite dissolved, pour it out, and when cold strain it into a bottle, and store it for use. A table-spoonful of this browning will colour half a pint of liquid, and there will be no danger of an unpleasant taste being given to the sauce, &c. The addition of a little claret or mushroom ketchup will often impart as much colouring to sauces as is required. When it is wished to thicken the .sauce as well as colour it brown thickening should bo used. Green. Pound some young spinach or beet-leaves. Press out the juice and put it in a cup. Place this cup in a saucepan of boiling water and let it simmer gently, to take off the raw taste of the juice. Before using it, mix it with a little finely-sifted sugar. Jlcd. Two or three drops of cochineal will impart a beautiful red or pink colouring. As juucli can be made at home for 2s. as will cost ?1 Is. if bought at the shops. White. Use poimded almonds, arrowroot, or cream. Yellow. For a clear yellow, dissolve orange or lemon jelly. For an opaque, pound the yolks of eggs, and mix it with the liquid; or, add a little saffron ; or, soak the fiowers of the crocus, which will not taste. Compotes, Syrup for. The quantity of sugar used for the syrup in comyjotes must depend upon the acidity of the fruit. For rhubarb, green gooseberries, early apples, &c., we should recommend ten ounces of loaf sugar to be boUed gently with half a pint of water for ten minutes. One pound of fruit must then be put in and boiled gently until it is sufficiently cooked. Lift the fruit into a deep glass dish, pour the s Tup round it, and servo. For apricots, plums, strawberries, and cherries, six ounces of sugar will be sufficient. Exact directions can scarcely be given, as the degree of ripeness which the fruit has attained, and the state of the weather when it was gathered, must be considered in deciding what quantity of sugar should bo used; but we can assure those who have not been accustomed to serve fruit in this way that it is most delicious and wholesome. The flavour of the fruit is preserved, and a compote is always an elegant and agreeable addition to the table. Generally speaking, the larger the amount of sugar used the clearer will be the syrup, and the longeiit will keep. It should be broken into lumps, not crushed to powder. Conger Eel. The conger is comparatively little used in cookery, though its tiesh is wholesome and nourishing, and by no means unpalatable. 'WTien caught, it is generally wasted, an um-easonable prejudice existing against it. It may be cooked in several ways, and the recipes which were given for cod may be used for it. The head and tail are the best for soup, and the middle may be boiled, stewed, cut into slices and baked, fried, or made into pies. Conger Eel, Baked. Take a piece of conger eel weighing about two pounds, wash it thoroughly, and stuff it with a good forcemoat made with four parts bread-crumbs, and one chopped parsley, a pinch of th ne, a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, a little butter, and the yolk of an ogg. Bind the fish secm-ely with string or tape, and put it into a deep dish half filled with water. Dredge llour plentifully over it, place little lumps of butter on. the top, and bake it in a good oven. Baste it often. When sufficiently cooked, take it out, thicken the gravy, and make it into anj- sauce you may like. Stewed tomatoes are very good served with it. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Conger Eel, Boiled. Take a piece about twelve inches long from the thick part of a fine conger, tie it round vith string, and put it into a stewpan with sufficient boiling water to cover it, and two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, a jreakfast-cupful of vinegar, a bunch of savomy herbs, and about two ounces of butter or dripping. Let it boil, then draw it to the side of the fireyand.let it simmer gently for half an hour. Drain, and serve on a hot napkin. Send melted butter to table with it. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Conger Eel, Fried. Cleanse the fisk thoroughly. Cut it into thick slices, and brush each shoe over with beaten e , then strew over them finely-grated bread-crumbs. Fry them in i lcnty of hot lard or dripping till they are brightly browned on both sides, and the flesh loaves the bono easily. A\Tion sufficiently cooked, lay them on blotting-paper to take off the fat ; put them on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve with shrimj), oyster, tomato, or anchovy sauce. Time to fry, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five person.''. Conger Eel Pie. Pemove the sldn and bone from two pounds of the middle of a conger. CON ( 153) COR Cut it into pieces one inch and a kalf square, strew salt, pepper, and pounded mace rather plentifully over each piece, and put a layer at the bottom of a deep pie-dish. Fill the dish with alternate layers of oysters and pieces of hsh. The tinned oysters will answer excellentl}' for this purpose. Pour over it some strong gravy made of the bones of the fish and the liquor of the oystei-s boiled in good stock, cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost : eonger, 3d. to 6d. per pound ; oysters, 7d. per tin. .SufKcient, a pie made with two pounds of conger and a tin of oysters, for six persons. Conger Eel Pie (another way). This fish is often plentiful and cheap, particularly in the western counties. In Cornwall, conger eel pie is one of the most approved of li.sh pies. Take a smtdl conger eel, cut it into pieces of two inches in length. Koll them in flour, and jjlace them in a pie-dish, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, allspice, chopped parsley, and thyme. Pour in half a pint of water and a table-spoonful of vinegar, and bake with a common crust in a moderate oven. It is good hot or cold. Time, one hour and a half. Conger Eel, Roasted. Take a piece from the middle of a large conger eel, about twelve inches in length, clean it without opening. Make a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, shred suet, parsley, lemon-thyme, pepper, and salt ; bind with an egg and stuff the eel full, securing both ends with a buttered paper. Dredge it with ? tiour, and baste frequently ; throw a tumbler of c-ider into the diipping-pan, or, if the cider is not to be had, a small quantity of vinegar. When half done, change the end bv which it hangs, and continue to baste till quite done. It may be baked in an oven, but is more liable in that case to be dry and over-done. Time, about on(! hour. Probable cost, 3d. to Gd. per pound. Conger Eel Soup. Put a bunch of savoury herbs into a saucepan, with a lajge carrot sliced, two largo onions sliced, and two bay-leaves. Fry them to a light bi-own, then add four quarts of Avater. Let it boil, skim it well, season it with one ounce of salt, and half an ounce of pepper, and put into it five pounds of the head and tail part of a conger eel. Sinmier gently and continuously for two hours, strain the soup, and put with it a pint of green peas. A few minutes before it is served, put in a pint of now milk. Time, three hours. Probable cost conger, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for live pints of soup. Conservative Pudding. Take two ounces each of ratafias and macaroons, and four otmces of sliced sponge-cake, put them into a bisin, and pour over them half a pint of boiling cream. Let them soak for half an hour, then beat them well with a fork, adding gradually the yolks of six eggi well beaten, a wine-glassful of brandy, and a table-spoonful *f sifted sugar. Butter a plain mould, ornament it with dried cheriies, or any tasteful device, pour in the mixture, cover it with buttered writing paper, tie it in a cloth, and steam it for an hour anH a half. Tuni it out upon a hot dish, and pour round, not on it, a 11 sauce made by boiling a quarter of a pound of sugar and a bay-leaf in a cupful of water for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four persons. Cool Cup, A. Rub five ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind of a large, fresh lemon. Poui- over it a bottle of cider, the juice of the lemon, half a nutmeg grated, and a tumblerful of sherry. Stir it until the sugar is dissolved, and put on it a spiig of borage, thyme, or mint. It will be better if placed on ice for a little while. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cider and sheny. Sufficient for a one-quart cup. Cool Cup (another way). Put a slice of hot toast, and a quarter of a pound of sugar into a largo tankard. Pour over these three tablespoonfuls of brandy, six of sherry, and a pint of good ale. Lay a sprig of balm or borage on the top, and let the liquid stand for a little while. Time to stand, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the liquids. Sufficient for a quart cup. Cool Cup (another way). Pare and core three large apples, slice them, and also three large lemons, and lay them in a deep basin in alternate layers, with sugar strewn over each layer. Pour over them a bottle of claret, cover the basin, and let it stand for four- hours. Strain the liquid and serve it with a lump of ice in the cup. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the claret. Sufficient for a pint cup. Cool Cup (another way). Pour a pint of claret and a tumblerful of water into a large cup. Mix with them two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, two drachms of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of a small nutmeg grated, and the thin rind of half a small lemon. Put a sjjrig of borage, or a little cucumber-rind with it for two or three minutes before using. Sufficient for a quart cup. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the claret. Cool Cup (another way.) Take t'hrocparts of good lemonade and one of sherry or Madeira, add three or four lumps of ice, and serve. Coratcll. Put into a pint of vinegar two shallots, and a clove of garlic sliced, two ounces of chillies, cut, a wine-glassful of soy, and the same of walnut ketchup ; infuse three weeks in a bottle closely corked, and filter for use. The liquid will be improved by keeping. Time, three weeks to infuse. Sufficient, a teaspoonful or more will flavour half a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Corncrakes, To Roast. Truss these l)irds in the same way as grouse. Dz-edge a little flour over, and fasten a slice of fat bacon on the breasts. Put them down to a clear fire, baste them well, and roast them twenty-five or thirty minutes. Five minutes before they are taken down, remove the bacon, so that tho breast may brown. Send them to table with a little brown gi-avy in the dish, and bread sauce in a tureen. Probable cost, uncertain. Four for a dish. COR ( 154) COR Corn-flour (for Childi-en). To two teaspoonfuls of corn-tiour, mixed with two taLlesjDoonfuls of cold water, add half a lAnt of boiling; boil for eight minutes, and sweeten very slightly. It should he, when wai-m, about the thickness of cream. For children of a year old and upwards, it may be prepared wholly with milk, and thicker. For childi-en's diet it is important that good sweet milk should be used. Corn-flour Blancmange. Mix very smoothly four ounces of coru-tlour with a little cold niilk, pour over it a quax-t of boiling milk, return it to the saucepan, and stir it constantly. Let it remain on the tire four minutes after it comes to a boil. Sweeten and flavour it. Pour it into a mould, and when cold tm-n it out. Serve with it a compute of any kind of fruit. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the fruit. Corn-flour Cream. To two ounces of corn-flour add one pint of milk, two ounces of pounded sugar, and a few di'ops of vanilla. Stir the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and pour it into custard-cups; strew ratafias over the surface, and serve hot. Corn-flour Custard Pudding. Mix three ounces of corn-flour with one quart of sweet milk, one or two eggs well beaten, a little butter, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste, and boil for eight minutes. Pour it into a pie-dish, and brown it before the fire. This is an exquisite dish. Corn-flour Fruit Pie. Bake or stew any kind vi fruit with sugar. Put it into a pie-dish, and pour over it corn-flour boiled with milk, in the proportion of four ounces of flour to one quart of milk. Brown before the fire. This makes a covering lighter and more delicious than the ordinary pie-crust. Corn-flour Fruit Pudding. Prepare a batter as for corn-flour blancmange. Pour half of it into a well-buttered pie-dish ; strew about two pounds of any kind of fruit upon it such as gooseberries, currants, plums, cherries, &c. and then pour the remainder of the batter over the fruit. Bake the pudding an hour and a quarter. Peeled and cored apples or pears may be used for the same purpose. Corn-flour Jelly. Mix in a tumbler a tea-spoonful of corn-flour with a little cold water. Pour upon it sufficient boiling water to fonn a clear jelly, stirring it well during the time it is being poured on ; then add a glass of sherry. Corn-flour Omelet. Beat up two eggs, and mix thorn with one table-* poonful of cornflour, and a tea-cupful of milk. Add a little sugar, and salt and pepper, if desired. Put the whole into an omelet-pan, previously well heated and covered with melted butter, and move the pan constantly over the fire. Turn the omelet several times, and double it over. Cook it until it is lightly browned. Corn-flour Pudding. Boil a pint of milk with a little lemon-rind; pour it upon three dessert-spoonfuls of corn-flour mixed smoothly with a little cold milk or water, add a well-beaten egg, and sweeten according to taste. Pour the mixtm-e into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake it from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, od. Sufficient for tlu-ee persons. Corn-flour Pudding, Baked. Add three and a half ounces of corn-flour to one quart of milk ; boil for eight minutes, stirringit briskly all the time. Allow it to cool, and then mix thoroughly with it two eggs well beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste, and bake for half an hour- in a moderate oven, or blown it before the fire. Corn-floiir Souffle Pudding. Put six ounces of corn-flour into a saucepan, with eight ounces of pounded sugar, and mix both together with a quart of milk. Add four ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a few di'ops of essence of vanilla. Stir briskly until it boils, and then work in vigorously the beaten yolks of six eggs. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and incorporate them lightly with the batter, which must then be pouied into a slightly-buttered pie-dish, and baked in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar, and send to table quite hot. Corn-flour Spongecake. Beat seven eggs, and add to them one pound of sugar, fouiounces of corn-floui-, and half a pound of wheaten flour. Put the mixture into a tin, and bake in a quick oven for about an hour. Corn-meal Cake. Mix together a pint of Indian meal, a tea-cupful of sour cream, the same quantity of fresh milk, half a cupful of treacle, one egg, a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and as much cinnamon, nutmeg, or other spice as may be required to flavour the cake. Butter a tin, pour the mixture into it, and bake it in a moderate oven for from one hour to one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a good-sized cake. Corn-meal Pudding. This dish is, like pease pudding, intended to be eaten with hot meat and gravy. It is made by stirring Indian meal into boiling water until it is as thick and smooth as batter. It must be beaten well over a slow fire for a few minutes, and when it bubbles up it is done enough. Time, twenty minutes. Corn Puddings, American. Put into a saucepan one pint of milk, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sugar ; let it boil, and stir into it by degrees four table-spoo-nfuls of Indian flour. Keep on stirring it for ten minutes or more, then turn it out and let it cool, \\nicn quite cold, add three well-beaten eggs, put the batter into buttered cups, allow room for rising, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Suflicient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 8d. Corporation Cakes. 3Iix two tablespoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt, with half a pound of flour. Add one ounce of candied lemon cut- into thin sti-ips, and two ounces of )OB, ( 155 ) cou di-ied hen the ingredients are well em into a stiff paste with six ( led butter and a table spooi . Drop the mixture in smul upon a well-buttered tin, and rate oven. Time to bake, half able cost, Id. each. Sufficient lor uiie Kx i jakes. Corstorphine Cream. This is an oldfashioned cvjohny drink. It is made by mixingequal quantities of milk obtained on two succeetling days, letting it stand twelve hours, then adding a little new milk, and beating all well together with sugar. Cottage Bread Pudding. Take any crusts of bread that may have been left, and be sm-e that they are perfectly clean. Put them into a saucepan with a pint and a half of milk to one poimd of bread. Simm.er very gently, and when the bread is quite soft, take it from the fire and beat it well with a fork. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a couple of ounces of finely-shred suet, or a piece of sweet dripping the size of a large egg, thi'ee eggs well beaten, and a handful of picked currants. Put the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters of an houi'. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 6d. Cottage Plum Pudding. Shied very finel}' tlu'GC ounces of best beef suet ; add three ounces of flour, one tea-spoonful of bakingpowder, three ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of raisins, two ounces of currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, and two v -ell-beaten eggs. Tie the mixture in a floured cloth, and boil it for from two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small family. Cottage Plum Pudding (another way). Mix thoroughly one pint of flour, half a pint of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of soda, two ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins. Work the ingredients into a light paste with two well-beaten eggs and half a pint of milk. Pour the pudding into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in a brisk oven. This pudding may be eaten cold as plain cake. Time to bake, about threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cottage Potato Pudding. Peel and boil two pounds of potatoes. Mash them, and beat them to a smooth paste, with a breakfastcupful of milk, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Add a handful of stoned and picked raisins, put the mixtm-e into a well-grea* ed pie-dish, and bake it for nearly an hour. If the milk is left out, and a quarter of a pound of butter substituted, it will make a nice cake. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost : pudding, od. ; cake, 9d. Cottage Pudding. (To use up crusts of bread). Pour a kettleful of boiling water upon some pieces of stale bread, let them soak tiU quite soft, drain off the water. and beat them weU with a fork. Take out any hard liunps that will not soften, and add a large lump of butter or di ipping, or some finely-shi-ed suet, some moist sugar, a handful of currants, and a little grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a weU-buttered pie-dish, and bake in. a good oven. A little jam may be eaten -svith this pudding, which is generally a favourite with childi-en. Time to bake, one hour and a half or two hours. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d., exclusive of the stale bread. Cottage Soup. Put three pounds of bones, broken into small pieces, into a stewpan, with a heaped table-spoonful of salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, a pennyworth of bruised celeryseed tied in a muslin bag, or two or three of the outer sticks of a head of celery, and four quarts of cold water. When the liquid boils, skim it, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently but continuously for three or four hoiu's. Strain it, and put the fat into a frj-ing-pan, with two onions sliced, and a carrot and turnip cut into dice. Fry these till lightly browned, put them with the soup, and boil it up again with a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Thicken it with four ounces of either oatmeal or prepared barley, taking care to mix them smoothly with a httle cold water before putting them with the rest of the soup. Wash half a poimd of rice, put it with the soup, boil it until tender, and serve. A little powdered mint should be sent to table with tho soup, to be used or not, according to taste. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for three quarts. Cottage Soup (another way). Put a large lump of dripping the size of a turkey's egg into a stewpan, with half a pound of fresh beef cut into small pieces, two large turnips, two large carrots, and two leeks, all finely sliced. Place them over a clear fire, and move them about for eight or ten minutes, until half cooked. Add, a little at a time, two cupfuls of cold water and half a pound of rice. Boil for five or six minutes, then add four quarts of hot water, two table-spoonf ids of salt, and a dessertspoonful of pepper. Boil once more, skim the soup well, then draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer it gently but continuously for thi-ee hours. Serve a little powdered mint with it, to be used or not, according to taste. Sufficient for three quarts. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Cottage Soup, Baked. Take one pint of dried pais, wash them well, and leave them all night in a quart of water. Cut half a pound of fresh meat into sHces, and lay them at the bottom of a deep stono jar. Put over them a slice of bacon, two large onions, two large carrots sliced, two or three sticks of celery, two ta'jle-spoonfuls of salt, one dessert- spoonful of pepper, the soaked peas, and last, four quarts of cold spring water. Cover the jar closely, and put it in a hot oven for four hours, and serve with toasted sippets. Sufficient for three quarts of soup. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Counsellor's Pudding. Butter the inside of a moidd thicklv; stick the inside all over cou ( 15G) COW as regularly as possible with dried cherries or raisins halved and stoned ; at the bottom, place in order a few macaroons and ratafias. Then line the sides with slices of sponge-cake, and fill the remaining space three-quarters full with spongecake, sponge biscuits, and Ijits of rich plum cake. If the latter are not at hand, a few washed currants may be sprinkled amongst the cakes. Mix together, half milk half eggs, as much as will soak the cake and fill the mould ; liavour with orange-flower water and sugar, or a glass of liquor, as noyeau, &c. When the soaking is complete and the mould quite full, cover the top with buttered paper, tie it down closely with a cloth, and boil it for an hour. AVhen turned out of the mould upon a dish, pour round the pudding a sauco made of rich melted butter, sweetened with sugar, coloured pink with fruit syrup, and flavoured with a glass ef the same liquor that was used for the pudding. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for a moderate-sized mould. Court Bouillon (with wine) . Take one part of vinegar, one of red wine, and four of water ; put them into a saucepan, and for every three quarts of liquid allow half an ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, two bay-loaves, one sliced onion, and one sliced carrot. Simmer for an hour, strain the liquid, and it will be ready for use. Court bouillon is used to boil fresh-water fish, to take off its insipidity. The quantity must depend upon the size of the fish, which ought to be well covered. When it is once made, however, it will keep for a long time if it is boiled up every three days, and diluted every time with one breakfast-cupful of water. If this is not done, it will become too strong and concentrated. Oil and vinegar is the only sauce that is eaten with fish boiled in co\irt bouillon, and served cold. The wine may be omitted. Probable cost, -exclusive of the wine, 6d. Suflicient for two quarts and a lialf. Cow-heel (au naturel). This dish, wliich is delicious as well as nourishing when properly cooked, may be served in several different ways. It should first of all be thoroughly scalded and ?cleansed, and the fat between the claws removed. This is often ah-eady done when the heel is bought at a tripo shop. (Ask for one which has been scalded, not boiled, or nearly all the nourishment will be gone from it.) Cut a cowheel into four parts, and put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and simmer them gently for four hours; take them up, remove the bones, thicken the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and put with it a tablospoonful of scalded and chopped pai-sley, and the juice of half a lemon. Season -wiili salt and pepper, boil altogether again for a few minutes, and serve hot. If there is more liquid than will be required for sauce, it should be preserved, and will be found excellent for sauces and soups. Probable cost of cow-heel, id. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one heel for a small family. Cow-heel for Invalids. Take a frosh icow-heel, cleanse and scald it, and remove the i"at from between the claws. Do not have one already boiled at the tripo shop, as was j said iu the last recipe, or it will not be so j nourishing. Put it into a saucepan with j one pint and a half of cold water, and add a. ! salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of fresh. I mustard, a salt-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a 1 pinch of pepper. Bring it slowly to a boil, skim it well, and simmer it gently for four hoiu's. Just before serving, thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of arrowroot mixed smoothly with a little cold water; add a wine-glassful of shen-y, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 4d to 8d. each. Sufficient i'or two or tlu-ee persons. Cow-heel, Fried. Prej are a cow-heel as befon ; simmer it gently for three houi'S, drain it, remove the bones, and cut it into convenient-sized pieces, about one inch and a half long. Mi.x some bread-crumbs with a little chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, and finely-shred lemon-rind. Dip the pieces in beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot butter or dripping till brightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, and pour over them some good melted butter flavoured v.-iih lemon -juice. Probable cost of cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Suflicient, one heel for two or three persons. Cow-heel, Fried with Onions. Boil a cow-heel as in the last recipe ; take it up, remove the bones, and put the meat away to get cold ; then cut it into nice pieces, about a quarter of an inch in thickness and one inch and a half square. Cut about the same number of slices of Spanish onion, dip both onions and meat in a little frying-batter {see Batter), and fry them in boiling dripping or butter till brightly browned. Serve very hot. The onions must be turned about until they are sufficiently cooked. They will require a few minutes more than the moat. Time : three hours to boil the heel ; about twenty minutes to fry it and the onions. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or thi-co persons. Cow-heel Stock for Jelly. Cow-heels may be substituted for calf's feet in making stock for jelly. It is best to stew the heels the day before you want to make the jelly, so that it may get cold, and be more thoroughly freed from fat and sediment. Buy two heels that have been well cleansed and scalded, but not boiled. Divide them into four, and pour over them three quarts of cold water, bring them slowly to a boil, skim the liquid carefully, and simmer it gently for seven hours, or until it is reduced to three pints. After this, proceed exactly as with stock made from calf's feet. If there is any doubt about the firmness of the jelly, an ounce of isinglass may be added. Cow-heels are cheaper than calf's feet, and quite as nourishing, though perhaps a trifle stronger in flavour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. oach. Sufficient, two heels for thi-ee pints of stock. Cowslip Wine. Allow three pounds of loaf sugar, the rind of an orange and a lemsn, and the strained juice of a lemon to every gallon of water. Boil the sugar and water together for half au hour. Skim it carefully, then pour it over the rind and juice. Let it CBA (157) CRA stand until new-milk warm, add four quarts of cowslip pips or flowers, and to evei-y six quarts of liquid put three large table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, spread on toast. On the following day put the wine into a cask, which must be closely stopped. It will be fit to bottle or drink from tlie cask in seven weeks. Twentyfour or forty-eight hours to ferment ; seven weeks to remain in the cask. Probable cost, cowslips to be gathered in the meadows. Crab Apples, Siberian (to preserve ?whole). liub the crabs with a piece of flannel till they are quite clean, but do not break the skin. Prick each one with a needle to prevent its bursting with the heat of the syrup. Simmer lialf a dozen cloves and some whole ginger in a lueakfast-cupful of water till the flavour is extracted. IStrain the liquid, and boil it for ten minutes -with one pound of loaf sugar. Skim it carefully, then put with it a pint of crabs. Let them just boil up, then take off till cold, and repeat this three times. If then they look (juite clear they are done enough, if not, boil tliem once more. Lift the crabs into a jar. I'our the syrup when cold over the fruit, and tic the jar down closely. Time, two or three hours. They are seldom offered for sale. Sufiicient, one pound of fresh fruit for one pint of jn'oserved. Crab Apples, Siberian, Jelly, The little red Siberian crabs make delicious and beautiful jelly. They should be made in the same way as apple jelly (sec Apple Jelly). Crab, Boiled. Put some water into a saucepan, and to every quart of water add a table-spoonful of salt. "WTien it boils, put in the c4-ab, previously taking the precaution to tie its claws. Boil briskly for twenty minutes, or longer if the crab is large. When taken out, rub a little sweet-oil on the shell. The ilavour of crabs is considered better when they are put into boiling water, besides which, they are sooner killed when the boiling-point has been reached. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 3s. 6d., depending upon the size. Suflicient, a medium- sized crab, for three persons. Crab Butter. Pick the meat from the claws of a large crab. Bruise it well in a iortar, and mix it with a little fresh butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of water, and let it simmer, gently stirring it all the time. 'Wlien it is on the point of boiling, take it from the fire and press it throTigh a sieve into a basin, which must stand in cold water until the butter is cold. Time, a few minutes to simmer. ProbpJ)lc cost, crabs from lOd. to 3s. 6d., depending upon the size. Sufficient, the flesh from two large claws, for hitlf a pound of butter. Suitable for a breakfast relish. Crab Butter Sauce. Take half a pint of good melted butter, and stir into it while hot a piece of butter about the size of an egg, prepared as in the last recipe. lix well together, and sci'vc. Time, a fev minutes. Probable cost, ci-abs from lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. Suflicient for a small dish of fish. Crab, Curried. Pound a clove of garlic in a mortal-, with the wliite part of half a small cocoa-nut, a tiible-spoonful of eurry-powder, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. When these are beaten to a paste, mix them very sniootiily over a gentle fire with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, taking especial care that the saucepan is delicately clean. Add the meat contained in a good-sized crab, and gradually a small cupful of cream. A pound of French beans, cut into thin strips and simmered with the crab, is an improvement to this dish. Just before serving, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. Serve as usual with rice round the dish. Lobster may be used instead of crab. Time to simmer, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Suflicient for five I or six persons. j Crab, Hot or Buttered. Pick the ! meat from the shell of a fine crab, and mix it I withalittlesalt,pepper,andgratcdnulm( g, afew \ bread-crumbs, a spoonful or two of sakul-oil or j good cream, and vinegar. Be careful to leave j out the part near the head, whicli is not fit I to be eaten. Fill the shell with the mixture, I strew fincly-gTated bread-crumbs over it, and I heat it in the oven or before the fire. Garnish I the dish with parsley, and send toasted bread to I table with it. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for three or four persons. Crab, Minced. Pick out the meat from a medium-sized crab, as in the last recipe, being careful to leave out the unwholesome part near the head. Chop it, and a small-boned anchovy, together, and put them into a saucejDan with a little salt and cayenne, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, two of sherry, a lump of butter about the size of a walnut, and two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Simmer gently for a fewminutes. Then draw the saucepan back, and add very gradually the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, from Is. to 3s., according to size. Sufficient for tln-ee or four persons. Crab, Mock. Take a pound of Gloucester or Cheshire cheese, and pound it in a mortar witli two spoonfuls of vinegar, three of saladoil, one of mi.xed mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. When it is well pounded, mix with it half a poimd of potted shrimps. It may be ser\-ed in a crab-shell, and garnished with parsley. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five pei-sons. Crab, Mock (another way). The imitation crab may be prepared as above, and the shrimps omitted. The flavour is not at all unlike that of crab, and is a relishing addition to bread and butter. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. Id. Sufficient for three or four persons. j Crab, Potted. Pick the meat from the i shell and claws of a freshly-boiled crab. ; Pound it in a mortar with Sidt, cayenne, and j pounded mace. Press it into small jars, co\-er it I with buttei-, and bake it in a moderate oven for I half an horn-. Wlien cold, pom* fi-cslily-clarified butter over it, and set it aside to get cold. CRA ( 158 ) CBA The remains of a crab that has been partly eaten may be used in this way, but it should be baked on the day on which it was opened. Probable cost, Gd. for a two-ounce jar. Sufficient for two persons. Crab Salad. Crack the large claws of a crab and pick out the white meat in as large pieces as possible. Lay the contents of the carapace in the middle o¦' a large dish ; on that put the pickings from the breast, and on the top the pieces from the claws. Surround the pile with a small quantity ?f mixed salad, quartered lettuce-hearts, blanched endive, or watercresses. Pour a little mayonnaise or salad-dressing over the whole, and garnish the dish with the small claws and a little green parsley. The four black tips of the shells of the large claws, which children call soldiers, may be placed at the four corners. Be careful that the mixed salad is thoroughly dry. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, crabs from lOd. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for four persons. Crab Sauce. Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly with a little cold water, and pour upon it a tea-cupful of boiling water and a tea-cupful of new milk, also boiling. Add three ounces of fresh butter, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Put all together on the fire, and stir the sauce constantly till it boils. Now add the tle.sh from the claws and body of a medium-sized crab, torn into small pieces with two forks. Let the sauce get quite hot ; but it must not boil again after the crab is added, or the flavour will be lost. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a tureen. Crab, Scalloped. Prepare the crab as for Minced Crab, omitting the %vine and eggs. Clean out the large round shell of the crab, fill it with the mixture, and put what is left into scallop-shells. Place them in a moderately hot oven or before a clear fire. AVhen hot through and slightly bro%%Tied, take them up, put them on a dish covered with a napkin, the crab-shell in the middle and the scallop-shells round it, and garnish with parsley. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost of crab, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for four persons. Crab Soup. Wash half a poimd of rice in one or two waters, then put it into a saucepan with a quart of milk or white stock, an inch and a half of stick cinnamon, a little salt and pepper, and a piece of butter the size of an j egg. Let it simmer gently till quite tender, ( then mix with it the pounded yellow pith from j the body of a freshly-boiled crab, and another quart of stock. Eub all through a sieve, then pour it into a steA\'pan with the flesh from the claws torn into flakes with two forks. Add a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Stir it again over the fire until thoroughly heated, but it must not boil after the crab is added. Time, one hour and a half. Prol)able cost, Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for five or six I Crab, To Choose. Choose a crab of the medium size (neither very large nor very small) , and heavy ; the light crabs aie watery. The male crab is the best for the table, and may be distinguished by possessing larger claws. A\Tien selecting a crab which has been cooked, it should be held by its claws and well shaken from side to side. If it is found to rattle, as if it contained water, the crab is of inferior quality. The preference should be given to those that have a rough shell and claws. The joints of the claws should be stifl:', the shell a bright red, and the eyes bright and firm. Crab, To Dress. Pick out all the meat from two crabs, clear away the apron and the gills, and mix all well together with a \ineglassfid of -s-inegar, the same of oil, a saltspoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful of white pejiper. Clean out one of the large shells, put the mixture into it, and place it on a napkin with the small claws, and a little parsley for garnish. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an horn-. Probable cost of crabs, lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cracknels. Beat eight eggs with eight table-spoonfuls of rose-water and a grated nutmeg. jNIix with them over two quarts of flour with sufficient cold water to make a stiff paste. Mix with the paste two pounds of butter, and make it into cracknels. Put them into a pan of boiling water, and boil them till they swim. Then put them into cold water, and, when , they are hardened, dry them, and bake them I on tin-plates in a moderate oven. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 5s. for this quantity. CRADLE SPIT. Cradle Spit. These spits are so made that they inclose any delicacy which has to be roasted ; and so no necessity arises for the meat to be pierced. They are now almost superseded by the well-known bottle- jack. Cranberries, To Pickle. Gather the clusters before they are fully ripe. Put them into jars and cover them with strong salt and water. When fennentation begins, drain them, and add fresh salt and water. Keep the jars closely covered. They are ready for use in a week or two. Probable cost, fresh fruit, uncertain ; bottled, 8d. or lOd. per bottle. Cranberries, To Preserve. Pick the cranberries (reject the injured berries), and to every pound of fruit allow two pounds of sugar. Pour a cupful of water into the preser\'ing-pan, CBA ( 159 ) CRA and place in it altomate layers of cranberries and sugar. Boil gently and skim carefully. The preserve must be kept in closely-covered jars. Time, twenty minutes after it comes to a boil. Sufficient, one pound of fruit for one ponnd of jam. Cranberry Gruel (Invalid Cookery). A few tTiinlierries boiled in a little thin gruel, .sweetened and flavoured with grated nutmeg, is a pleasant change for an invalid. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, half a cupful of cranberries with their juice for half a pint of gruel. Cranberry Jelly. Make half a pint of xevy strong isinglass jellj', using nearly an ounce of isinglass to the half pint of jelly. NTien it is clear, add a pint of cranberryjuice which has been drawn out over the tire and pressed from the fruit. Sweeten the liquid %\ith half a pound of best loaf sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon-j.uice and the whites and shells of three eggs. Simmer the preparation gently without stirring it for a few minutes, let it stand to settle, strain it until clear, and pour it into a mould. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. .Sufficient for a quart mould. Cranberry Tart. Wash the cranberries in several waters. Allow a quarter of a pound of .sugar and two cloves to every pint of cran1 terries, and partially cook them before putting them into the tart. Three-parts fill a pie-dish with the fruit, cover it with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. A little icing [see Icing) will improve the appearance of the tart. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient, a ] int of cranberries v,i[l make a tart for three jicrsons. . Cranberry and Grouna Rice Jelly. Draw out a pint of cranberry- juice by putting the fruit and two or three cloves into a elosely-covered jar, placing the jar in a sauce])an of cold water on a moderate fire, and - immering gently for about half an hour. Mix 1 lie juice with three table-spoonfuls of groimd I ice and two of sugar, boil it gently until it tliicki'Tis, ami pom- it into a mould which has i Mil iiiLiiirr-iil in cold water. When cold, turn i* Dut, and lut it -with a little cream. A quarter . t an hour to boil with the rice. Sufficient for l': ur persons. Crappet Heads. Thoroughly wash the beads of haddocks. Skin them and take out the 'ves. Fill the heads with a forcemeat made by mincing the boiled and skinned roe with double its weight in bread-crumbs, a little finelychopped parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Bind this forcemeat together with yolk of egg. Fasten the heads securely with strong thread, place them standing at the bottom of a buttered stewpan, pour fish-soup over them, and boil them gently. Before serving them remove the thread. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Sufficient, one for each person. Crayfish in Jelly. Crayfish are something like lobsters, but smaller, and the flesh more delicate ; indeed, they are more useful and delicious than any other shell-fish, and if every j housekeeper wove to inquire for them two or ' three tunes at the fishmonger's they would soon become plentiful. There are several kinds ; those are considered the best which are reddish under the claws. To serve them in jelly, take a pint of fish for rather less than a pint of savourj' jelly {see Aspic Jelly). Put a little jelly at the bottom of a mould ; when it is cold, lay the crayfish upon it, and repeat this luitil the materials are finished, but care must be taken to let the jelly stiffen each time or all will sink to the bottom, and also to put the fish in with the back downwards, or they will be wrong side up when turned out. Garnish with parsley. This is a pretty di,sh. Time, thirty-six houi-s or more. Probable cost, crayfish, 2s. -per quart. Sufficient for a quart mould. Crayfish, Potted. Boil the fish in water with plenty of salt in it. Pick out the meat and pound it well in a mortar with a little grated nutmeg or pounded mace, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of fresh butter. . An ounce of butter may be allowed to a pint of crayfish. Put the paste into small jars, cover these with clarified butter, and cover closely. Time, ten minutes to boil the crayfish. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Crayfish Soup, or Potage Bisque (delicious). Take fifty crayfish (or one hundred prawns, if crayfish cannot be obtained). Remove the gut from the centre fin of the tail, or it will make the soup bitter. Shell the fish and keep the tails whole. Pound the shells with four ounces of fresh butter, the crumb of a French roll, and three anchovies, and put them in a stewpan with two quarts of fish stock, four or six mushrooms, a dessert-sjioonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and an onion stuck with three cloves. Simmer for two hours. Strain the soup, and put with it the meat, all but the tails, pounded with a little butter. lix all well together, and let it become hot, but it must not boil after straining. Five minutes before it is taken from the fire put in the tails whole. Serve with toasted sippets. A tumbler of wine is an improvement to this soup. Probable cost, crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Crayfish, To Dress, Wash the crayfish and boil them in water with salt in it io:: ten minutes. They should be a bright red wheidone. Drain them. Pile them on a napkin, pjT-amid f oi-m, and garnish the dish with parsley. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Sufficient, a quart for a dish. Crayfish, To Keep Alive. CVaj-fish may be kept alive for two or three days if they are put into a bucket with a little drop of water, not quite an inch deep, at the bottom. The water must be changed every five or six hours. Crayfish, To Stew. Take a quart of crayfish, remove the gut from the centre fin of the tail, and pick the meat from the tails. Pound the bodies, with four ounces of butter, and put them into a stewpan with four pints of water, a spoonful of vinegar, half a nutmeg grateil, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently for half an hour. Strain, and thicken the sauce with a little flour. Add the tails. When they are hot, pour the whole over a slice CHE ( IGO) ORE of toasted iDrcad, and serve. Probable cost of crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cream. In the ordinary use of the word, cream is ihe name given to the yellow, d(;licious matter wliieh rises to the surface of milk, and can be taken from it b-y skimming. In cookery, it applies to a number of rich dishes in which cream is the principal ingredient, and which are generally named after the flavouring material. Creams may bo served either moulded or in custard-glasses. When they are moulded, they should, if possible, be frozen, and if this cannot be done, they should be made stiff with isinglass. It is almost impossible to give minute directions as to the amount of isinglass to be used ; the strength and quality diifer so much, but it may be useful to remember that a larger proportion of isinglass will be needed for a large mould than a small one. Too much sugar and too much water both tend to prevent a mould from turning out in shape. The moulds for creams should always be oiled or immersed in cold water before they are used. In all the recipes where cream is required, and when it is not easily obtained, Swiss milk will be most useful. Though it is not agreeable to drink, it is excellent for cookery, and much less expensive than cream, and it must be remembered that whenever it is used, sugar may be entirely dispensed with. In calculating the cost of the various sweet dishes, cream is put down at Is. 6d. per pint. If the Swiss or Aylesbury milk were used it would be much less. In the same way isinglass is reckoned at Is. 2d. per ounce, which is the price of the best. If opaque gelatine be used, which, though not nearly so nice, is considered by many quite satisfactory, that may be obtained at 4d. per ounce. Cream (a la Parisionne). Pour a pint and a half of boiling milk over an ounce of isinglass, stir it well, add the juice of half a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and half a pouijd of good jam apricot is to be preferred but none must be used which was tiot preyed through a sieve at the time it was made. The jam should be added gradually, and the cream stirred till it is nearly cold, or the jam wilt- sink to the bottom. It will be richer and better if cream bo entirely or partially substituted for milk. Time : half an hour to make ; twelve hours or more to stiffen. Probable cost. Is. lOd. with milk, or 3s. lOd. with cream. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cream, (a la Valois). Cut three or four spongecakes into thin slices. Arrange them on a dish with a little jam spread on each, and pour over them a wine-glassful of sherry. Pour one pint of boiling milk or cream over an ounce and a half of the best isinglass. Sweeten it, and add a table-spoonful of brandy and the same of lemon- juice. Stir it well, then pour a little into an oiled mould, and let it set ; then place the sponge l)iscuit on it. Fill the mould with the remaiTidcr of the cream, and when it is firm turn it on a glass dish. Time, half an hour to make. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sherry and brandy. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cream, Apple Pie. Make an apple pie in the usual way. When it is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the oven, cut out the pastry from the middle, and, when cold, pour a pint of good custard in its place. Put some ornaments of puif paste on the cover. Any kind of firm fruit may be sent to table in the same way. Cream. Biscuits (flavoured with lemon). Beat up the yolks of six eggs with half a pound of finely-sifted sugar. When well worked together, add six whites whipped to a froth, one gill of whipped oream, and the grated peel of a lemon. Bake in a moderate oven for ten to twelve minutes. These biscuits may be varied by substituting orange or vanilla for lemon. Probable cost, about Is. Gd. Cream, Burnt. Boil a pint of milk in a saucepan, with a stick of cinnamon, and a little candied lemon-peel cut into small pieces. Let it remain by the side of the fire to draw out the flavour, then strain it, and pour it over the j'olks of three or four eggs well beaten. Put the mixture on the fire, and simmer the custard gently until it thickens. Pour it into a dish ; when cold, cover the surface with powdered loafsugar, and brown with a salamander. Tirae twenty minutes. Probable cost, Sd. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. Cream., Clotted. Clotted cream, usually called Devonshire cream, is sold in the London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious when eaten with fresh fruit. It is made hy putting the milk into a large metal pan, and allowing it to stand without moving it for some hours, twenty-four in winter, twelve in summer. The pan is then placed on a stove, or over a very slow fire, and some distance above it, so that it will heat without boiling or even simmering until a solid mass foi-ms on the top. The pan should be then taken to the cool dairy, and the cream lifted off when cold. Time, the slower the better. Probable cost. Is. for a small tin. Cream Cake Beat three ounces of butter to a cieam, and mix with it, very smoothly, half a pound of fine flour, a gmall tea -spoonful of baking-powder, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, the rind of a fre.sh lemon sliced as thinly as possible, and a cupful of thick cream beaten up with an egg. If the cream is a little turned it will not signify; indeed, it is rather an advantage than otherwise. It should make a lir ht: batter. Put it in a welloiled dish, and bake in a moderate oven for rather more than half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a small cake. Cream Crust. Pastrj' is much improved if it is mixed with cream instead of water. Less butter will be required ; indeed, for home consumption, it is very good without any at all. It should be baked as soon as made. Cream Fritters, Pound in a mortar half a dozen macaroons, two ounces of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of saU, and the rind, grated, of half a lemon. Beat up two whites and half a dozen yolks of eggs separately, with half a pint of cream, and stir all well together. CRE ( 161 ) CRE Then fry the fritters a light bro\\-n, both sides alike, and serve them quickly, with wiuc sauue and fine powdered sugar. Probable cost. Is. 9d. Time, four to five minutes to fry. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cream, Italian. Put one ounce of best isinglass, six ounces of loaf sugar, half a pod of vanilla, and a pint of milk into a saucepan, and boil it slowly, stirring all the time, until the isinglass is dissolved. Strain the mixture, and, when a little cool, mix it with a pint of thick cream. AVhisk it quickly till it thickens. Put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it on ice, or, if preferred, serve in glasses. Time, from ten to thirty minutes to dissolve the isinglass. The best requires the longest boiling. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cream, Lem.on. Rub the thin rind of a lemon on a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and squeeze over it the juice of two lemons, and add two glasses of sherry. Let it stand for nearly an houi-. Strain the syrup, and pomover it one pint and a half of cream which has been boiled and slightly cooled. Pour it rapidly from one jug to another, till it is thoroughly mixed, and a little curdled. Serve in custardglasses. Probable cost, with cream, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the sheiTy. Sufficient for ten or twelve glasses. Cream., Ijem.OIl (Another way). Put one pint of cream into a scrupulously clean saucepan, with four table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, the thin rind of a lemon, and one ounce of best isinglass. Simmer gently until the isinglass "is dissolved, let it cool a little, then add the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Strain the liquid into a jug; put the jug into a saucepan of cold water, place this over a slow fire, and stir it constantly until it thickens; it must not boil. When nearly cold, add the juice of the lemon. Pour the cream T)ackwards and forwards for a few minutes until the juice is well mixed. Put it into a well-oiled mould, and keep in a cool place until set. Turn it out before serving. Crood cream may be made of Swiss milk ; if this is used, the sugar must be omitted. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. with cream, Is. 8d. with Swiss milk. Sufficient for one pint and a half mould. Cream, Lemon (another way). Peel three lemons, and put the thin rind with a quait of new milk into a saucepan. Add six or eight blanched almonds, half a pound of sugar, and two ounces of gelatine which has been soaked in half a pint of water. Let all boil gently for a few minutes, cool the milk a little, and mix it gradually with the yolks of six eggs. Pom- it from one jug to another till nearly cold, then add the juice of the lemon, pour it again backwards and forwards, put it in a well-oiled mould, and let it stand in a cool place until ready to turn out. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for a largo mould. Cream, Lemon (another way). Peel three lemons, and squeeze out the juice into a quart of good milk ; add the peel cut in pieces, and cover the vessel for a few hours. Then add the yolks of six eggs well beaten, and a pint of water sweetened \-ith a quarter of a pound of sugar. Strain the milk, and simmer it oveia gentle fire until it becomes of the consistency of cream, and ix)ur it into jelly-glasses. Time, ten minutes to simmer the cream. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for one dozen and a half glasses. Cream of Rice Soup. This is made by thickening some good stock with ground rice. The rice should be mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and added to the boiling stock. Cream, Omelet. Mix very smoothly three dessert-spoonfuls of ground rice with half a pint of cream, a little at a time, and put it into a saucepan with a small pinch of salt, the thin rind of a lemon, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut. Stir it over the fire until it thickens, and, when cold, add three eggs thoroughly whisked. Pour the mixtm-e into a well-oiled mould, and bake it in a good oven. Tirrn it out Avith great care, and serve. Time, threequarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Cream, Orange. Remove and throw away the white part from the rinds of fom* Seville oranges, and put the latter, with fom* ounces of loaf sugar and the juice, into a basin. Pour on the mixture a pint and a half of boiling water. Let it stand for two hours, then strain, and mix the liquid with four eggs well beaten. Put all into a saucepan, and simmer gently, stirring all the time, until the cream thickens ; it must not boil. Serve in glasses, and put a sti'ip of candied orange peel at the top of each glass. If preferred, lemons may be substituted for oranges. Time, about ten minutes to simmer. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for ten or twelve glasses. Cream Pancakes. Whisk thoroughly the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs. Add a small cupful of thick cream, a little sugar, and sufficient flour to make a good batter. Put with it a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Fry in the usufil way. This and all other batters are better made two or three hours before thcj' are used. Time to ivy, five or six minutes. Pro'tjable cost. Is. Sufficient for two or three persons. Cream, Patissiere. Beat two ounces of fine flour very smoothly and gradually with three well-beaten eggs, and add, a little at a time, a pint of boiling milk, or cream and milk, or cream only. Sweeten it with some lumps of sugar which have been rubbed on fresh lemonrind, and heat the mixture ovev the fire, stii-ring all the time, until it thickens ; but it must not boil. This cream is used by the French instead of our col4 custard, and is very good made as above, but an ounce and a half of crushed ratafias, or a little brandy, will improA'e it, and it may then be used for t.'iiilets, cannelons, small vol-au-vents, &c. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Probable cost, Sd., made with milk. Cream Pudding, Rich. Put the thin rind of a lemon into a pint of cream, bring it slowly to a boil, and pour it over the finely-grated ORE ( 162) CUE crumb of a French roll. Let it stand to soak, then boat it -svell with a fork, and add two table-spoonfuls of suc ar, a pinch of salt, one or two di'ops of almond flavouring, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the yolks of six eggs well beaten. Bake in a buttered dish, and serve with -wane sauce. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cream, Rice. Put a quart of new milk or cream into a saucepan with any flavouring that may be preferred, if lemon-rind, stick cinnamon, or laurel leaves, the milk should be left standing by the side of the fire a little while to draw the flavour. Mi.x two table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a httle of the milk, and gradually with the whole of it. Add a well-beaten eg and stu- the cream over a gentle fire till it thickens. Sweeten to taste, and serve in a glass dish as an accompaniment to fruit tart or stewed fruit. The cream should be stirred until cold to prevent a skin forming on the top. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a quai-t of cream. Cream Sauce. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan with a dessertspoonful of fine flour, and beat them smoothly together with a wooden spoon. AVhen the butter is melted, add gi'adually half a pint of cream or new milk, and a little salt, pepper, and ]D0unded mace. Let the sauce simmer over a gentle fire, and stir it constantly. If it becomes too thick, it may be thinned by the addition of a small quantity of milk or cream. The juice of a lemon may be added, if liked. This sauce may be used for turbot, cod, and other fish, vegetables, and white dishes. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., if made with milk. Sufficient for rather more than half a pint of sauce. Cream, Sherry. Simmer a pint of cream, with an inch of stick cinnamon and two table-spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar. Let it get cold, then add gradually three table-spoonfuls of sherry. Strain, and serve in glasses. Strew a little powdered cinnamon on the top of each glass ; stir it well. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the cream. Probable cost, cream, Is. Gd. per pint. Sufficient for half a dozen glasses. Cream., Soda. Put thi-ee pounds of loaf sugar, two ounces and a half of tartaric acid, and two quarts of cold water into a preservingpan. Let it just boil, then add the whites of three eggs beaten to a firai fioth. Let this boil exactly four minutes, stirring all the time. Strain, and when it is cold, add a small teaspoonful of a7iy flavouring essence that may be preferred. Keep the liquid in a bottle closely corked. "Wlicn an agreeable refreshing summer beverage is wanted, tvvo table-spoonfuls of this may be put into half a tumblerful of water, and stirred briskly with a third of a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. Drink during eifervescence. Probable cost, "is. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient, two table-spoonfuls for a tumbler. Cream, Substitute for. Stir a dessertspoonful of flour into a pint of new milk ; simmer it, to take off the rawness of the flour ; stir in the yolk of an egg well beaten, and strain the mixtm-e through a fine sieve. Time, a few minutes to sinxmer. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for rather more than a pint. Cream, Substitute for (another and nicer). Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with half a pint of milk. Strain the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it until it is heated, but do not let it boil. Sweeten slightly. I When cold, it is ready to serve. This may be ! used either for tea or tarts. Time, a few I minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for I nearly three-quarters of a pint. I Creamed Tartlets. Line some tarilet j tins with good pufi' jwiste, and put rather less jam on them than is usual. Place a little good I custard over the jam, and on the top of the I custard an icing made by mixing a table-spoonI f ul of sifted white sugar with the white of one I egg whisked to a soUd froth. Place a little of i this over each tartlet and bake in a moderate I oven for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, six or eight for a dish. Cream Toasts. Cut a pound of French roll in slices as thick as a finger, and lay them j in a (hsh. Pour over them half a pint of cream, j and a quarter of a pint of milk, and sprinkle some crushed lump sugar and cinnamon on their surface. When the pieces of bread are I soaked in the cream, remove them, dip the slices in some raw eggs, and fry them brown in butter. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cream., Vanilla. Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint and a half of thick cream or new milk, add thi-ee table-spoonfuls of sugar, and four or five drops of the essence of vanilla, and last of all, the white of one egg beaten to a firm froth. Put the mixture into a jug, place the jug in a saucepan of cold water, and let it simmer gently, stm-ing the contents of the jug all the time, until the cream thickens. It must on no account boil, or it -wiU. be fuU of lumps. Pour it into custardglasses, and strew a little finely-sifted sugar on the top of each glass. Sufficient for nearly a quart. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity, if made with milk. Cream, Vanilla (another way). Simmer half a stick of vaniUa in a pint of milk for t went}' minutes, or until the flavour is thoroughly extracted, take out the vanilla, and pour the boiling milk upon one otmce of isinglass, and stir it until the isinglass is quite dissolved. Mix it with the yolks of six eggs, put it in a saucepan, and stir it constantly over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. Strain it in a large basin, and add to it half a pint of wellwhijjped cream, and a small glass of brand3\ Pour it on a well-oiled mould, and set it on ice. To turn it out, dip the mould for a moment into wami water. If it cannot be set on ice, a little more isinglass may be added. Time, three-quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. yd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for one quart mould. CBE ( 1G3 ) CB Cream, Velvet. Cut three or four spouge biscuits into thin slices, and spread on cuch a little apricot or greengage jam. Pour over them a glass of sherry, and the juice of a lemon, and let them stand to soak. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a cupful of water, put it with a pint of cream, and two table.spoonfuls of sugar into a saucepan, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes, strain it into a j ug, and, when nearly cold, pour it from a good lieight upon the fruit and spongecake. When stiif, it is ready to serve. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. .Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Cream, Velvet (another way). Prepai-e the jam and the si ongecakcs as in the last re ipe. Simmer a pint and a half of new milk with the thin rind of a lemon, half an inch of stick cinnamon, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar, until the flavour is thoroughly exti'acted. Strain the milk, and let it cool, then mix it with four eggs well beaten. Beat two dessertspoonfuls of arrowroot or corn-flour into a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Mix the eggs and milk with them, and put aU in a saucepan. Let the mixture simmer gently until it thickens, but it must not boil. Pour it over the fruit and si ongecake, and let the dish stand in a cool place until wanted. Orange wine may be substituted for sherry. Probable cost, Is. 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a large dish. Cream., Whipped, The white of one egg should be allowed for every pint of good, thick cream. If this cannot be procured, more eggs must be used. A good-looking dish may be made by boiling a quart of milk down to a pint, and mixing with it the whites of thi-eo eggs. Sweeten and flavour the cream before using it. For a plain whipped cream, this is done by rubbing the rind of a lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar, and pounding it in a mortar, then mixing it with a glass of sherry or half a glass of brandy, the white of an egg beaten to a solid froth , and afterwards with the cream. Whip it to a troth with a scrupulously clean osier whisk. As it rises, take it oif by table-spoonfuls, and put it on a sieve to drain. It is a good plan to whip the cream the day before it is wanted, as it is so much firmer. It should be made in a cool place, and kept in the same. It may be served in a variety of ways, either in glasses, or in a glass dish, when it should be prettily garnished, or surrounded by spongecake, macaroons, or ratafias. A spongecake may be made in the shape of a hollow cylinder, and filled with as much whipped cream as it will hold. Its appearance is improved by colouring part of it before whipping it (see Colouring). JMany persons dissolve a tea-spoonful of powdered gum arable in a little orange-flower water, and add this to the cream. It keeps the froth firmer. Time, one hour to whi.sk the cream. Sufficient for one good-sized dish. Probable cost. Is. 9d., exclusive of the wine, for a pint of cream. Cream, Whipped, with Chocolate. Make two ounces of best choeolat-e into a paste with a little boiling water. Mix it gradually and smoothly with one pint of cream sweetened, two tea-spoonfuls of dissolved gum arable, if this is used {.see the previous recipe) ; boil and cool, then add the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth. Half fill the glasses, and whip the remaiader into froth. Fill them up, and keep in a cool place till wanted. Time, one hour to whip the cream. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. Cream, Whipped, with Coflfee. IMix a table-spoonful of a strong infusion of coftee in a pint of cream, sweeten it rather liberally, and whip it as in the last recipe. It wni be of a light brown coloui-. If this is objected to, it may be obtained free from colour by roasting freshlj- two ounces of coffee-bemes, when they are lightly bro-nmed, throw them at once into the cream, and let it stand for an hour before using. Strain, and whip as before. Serve in. glasses. Time, one horn- to whisk the cream. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. Probable cost, 2s. Cream, Whipped, with Liquor. Proceed exactly as before, flavouring the cream before whipping it with any liquor that may be wished. Time, one hour to whisk the cream. Probable cost. Is. 8d., exclusive of the liquor. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. Cream, Whipped, with Vanilla. Boil half a pod of vaniUa in a cupful of new milk for twenty minutes. Strain, and add it to a pint of thick cream. Sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and mix in the whites of three eggs beaten to a fiim froth. Three or four di-ops of vanilla essence may be put with the cream instead of boiling the pod. Time, one hour to whisk the cream. Probable cost, about Is. lOd. Sufficient to fill eight or ten glasses. Cream of Tartar Cake. Pub one ounce of butter into three pints of flour. Add three tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt. Dissolve a piece of saleratus the size of a small nut in a pint of milk. If this cannot conveniently be used a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda rubbed into the flour will supply its place. Add the milk to the flour, roll out the dough, ctit it into cakes the size of a cup-plate, and about half an inch thick, and bake on tins in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight cakes. Cream of Tartar, To Drink. Put an ounce of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of two lemons, and a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar into a jug. Pour over them two quarts of boiling water. Drink the beverage when cold. It will prove cooling and wholesome. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for two quarts. Creme d'Orge. Boil gently a cupful of pearl barley in one pint of milk and one pint of water until quite tender. Strain oif the liquid (which, if sweetened iind flavoured, will be a refreshing and wholesome drink for a child or sick person), and mix A\-ith the barley a pint of cream, three table-spoonfuls of sugarj a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, two eggs well beaten, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. ORE (164) CRO Eeturn the barley to the saucepan, and let it Bunmer gently for an hour. Stir it frequently. It may be either served in custard-glasses, or put in a buttered dish and baked in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for live or sLx persons. Creme d'Orge, Soup of. Cut threequarters of a pound of veal and half a pound of beef into small pieces. Put them into a saucepan with two ounces of pearl barley and two quarts of cold water, bring it to a boil, skim thoroughly, and simmer as gently as possible for thi-ce hours. Then rub the whole through a sieve. Add pepper and salt, and any other seasoning that may be fancied. The soup should be of the consistency of thick cream. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cress Sauce (for Fish and Poultry). Wash some cress carefully. Pick it from the stalks, and boil it for about ten minutes. Drain it, mince it very finely, and stir it into a little melted butter. Serve in a tureen. Sufficient, a handful of cress for half a pint of sauce. Cost, 6d. per pint. Cressy Soup. AVash clean, prepare, and slice eight carrots, eight turnips, eight small onions stuck with one or two cloves, half a draclim of celery-seed, bruised and tied in a muslin bag, and a slice of lean ham cut into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with a piece "of butter the size of a large egg, move them constantly, and when they are nicely browned, add, a little at a time, three quai-ts of good stock (*?('(? Stock). If it is necessary to use f resli meat, two pounds of the shin of beef boiled gently in four quarts of water for throe hours vdYL answer the purpose. Simmer until the vegetables are quite tender. Press them through a coarse sieve with the back of a spoon, return them to the saucepan, season with pepper and salt, and boil twenty minutes longer. The soup should be of the consistency of very thick cream. A little boiled rice may be put into the tm-een, and the soup poured on it. Time, two hours, if the stock or giavy be already picpared. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the stock or gravy. Crisp Biscuits. A very stiff dough is required for these biscuits. To one pound and a half of flour add the yolks of two small eggs, and as much milk as will bring it to the requii'cd consistency. Beat and knead the paste till it is quite smooth, and, when rolled out tliin, make it into small biscuits with a tin cutter, and bake these in a slow oven about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Crisped Parsley. Wash some young parsley; pick away the decayed or brown leaves, and shake it in a cloth till it is quite dry. Spread it on a sheet of paper, and put it in a Dutcli oven before a clear fire ; turn it very often until it is quite crisp. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient, a little to garnish a dish. Croquant Paste. Mix two ounces of finely-sifted loaf sugar with a quarter of a pound of fine floiu-. Add the well-beaten yolks of eggs till it forms a stiff paste. Poll it out about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and, with an ordinary pastry cutter, cut it out into pretty iittle shapes. Let thoso di-y a short time, then brush them over with the white of an egg, sift a little sugar over them, place them on a tin, and bake them for a few minutes in a moderate oven. Take them from the tin before they are cold, and place them on the tartlets, &c., for which they arc intended. Sufficient, two or tlu'ce for a small dish of pastry. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity. Croquettes. These useful little dishes are made of minced meat, poultry, fish, kc., highly seasoned, mixed with a little sauce, dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, fried until crisp, and served with any sauce. They differ from rissoles only in this, that the latter are covered with good puff paste before fiying, and croquettes are rolled in egg and bread-crumbs. They should be well drained from the fat before serving, then piled high on a hot napkin, and the sauce sent to table in a' tui-een. Though, they are often made of fresh meat, they are chiefly useful for cold. It will be evident that nearly everything deijends ujDon the seasoning. Though there aic numberless names for them, from the materials of which they are made, or the sauces with which they are served, the general idea in all is the same a savoury mince, moistened with sauce, if necessary bound together with the yolk of egg, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. Croquettes (au Financierc). Mince very finely the livers of two fowls, a sweetbread, a shallot six, small muslu-ooms, and two truffles. Season rather highly with pepper and salt. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan, let it melt, then mi.\ with it very smootlily and slowly a table-spoonful of floiu-. "V\Ticn it is lightly browned, add the mince and an ounce of butter, and simmer for ten minutes, stirring all thc! time. Drain oflE the fat, add a glass of light wine to the mixture, and simmer it gently for a few minutes longer. When it is cold and stiff, mould it into small balls, and fry these in the usual way. Half a dozen oysters, finely minced, are sometimes added. Sprinkle a little salt over croquettes before serving them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, sweetbread, from Is. to -Is. Sufficient, allow one or two croquettes for each person. Croquettes of Fowl. Take the remains of a cold fowl, and mince it \erx finely; put it in a saucepan with a little gravy, a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and a table-spoonful of crear.?. Let it boil, stirring it well all the time, and, if necessary, thicken it with a little flour, or a few bread-crumbs. AATien cold and firm, roll it into balls about the size of a walnut, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs ; do this once or twice, and fry them in hot butter or diipping until they are lightly browned ; ])ile tliem on a napkin and garnish with crisped parsley {see Crisped Parsley). Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Allow two or three for each person. CRO ( IGo ) CRXJ Croquettes of Rice. Put a quarter of a pouiiii of rice, one pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of finely-sifted, sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small nut, and the thin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any other flavoui-ing may be used, if prefeiTed. iSinmier gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn it out, and' when it is cold and stiff, form it into small balls dij) these in egg, sprinkle a few CKOQUETTES OF RICE. bread-crumbs over them, and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly and equally browned. Put them on a piece of clean blotting-paper, to drain the fat from them, and serve them piled high on the dish. If it can be done without In-ealving them, it is an improvement to introduce a little jam into the middle of each one ; or jam may be served with them. Time, about one horn- to boil the rice, ten minutes to fiy the croquettes. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Probable cost, ?id., without the jam. Croquettes, Vol-au-vent de. Make some extremely light puff paste ; roll it out verj' evenly, or it will not rise properly. Roll it out about a quarter of an inch thick ; stamp it to the size and shape of the bottom of the dish in which you intend to send it to table ; i-oll the paste again, and stamp another shape, four times as thick as the first ; place it on the top of the other, fastening it at the edges with yolk of es;g. Slake a slight incision nearly through the pastry all round the toiJ about an inch from the edge. Bake it in a brisk oven (this is important) until lightly browned, at once take out the paste inside the centre, remove the soft crumb from the middle, but be careful not to break the edges. Keep it in a wann place, and, when wanted, fill it with croquettes (.sw Croquettes, au Financiere). Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, depends upon the size. A vol-au-vent should never be made large. Croustad.es. These are patties made very much of the same shape as vol-au-vents, bread being xised instead of puff paste. They are best made as follows : Cut thick slices from a loll, scoop a hollow in the centre, and fry them in hot fat till the}' are lightly browned. Brain, and dry th(nn in the oven for a few minutes. They should then be filled with very nicelyseasoned mince, and some good sauce sent "to table with them. The ci-ust of the roll may be removed or not before frjdng. Time to "fry, ton minutes. Probable cost, rolls. Id. each. Sufficient, allow one croustade for each porson. Croustades, or Dresden Patties (another way). Ci'oustados are very nice cut from a French roll, as above, then dipped in a little milk, and drained, brushed over with egg, dipped in bread-crimibs, and fried. They may be filled either with sweets or a savoury mince. Care must be taken not to break them. Time to fry, a few minutes. Cro{ite-aux-Champignons. Cut the crust from a stale loaf rather more than an inch in thicloiess, toast and butter it. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan; let it melt, then put into it three dozen button mushrooms, first cutting off the ends of the stalks, and paring them neatly. Strew over them a little pepper and salt, and add the juice of half a lemon. Stew them gently for twenty-five minutes, shaking the pan frequently. Grate a quarter of a nutmeg over them, and add a tea-spoonful of flour mixed with a cupful of milk. Let them simmer five minutes longer, pour them over the toast, and serve hot. A little good stock may be used instead of the milk if preferred. Sufficient for five or si.x persona. Probable cost, mushroosis, 6d. to 2s. per jjint. Croutons. Cut some slices of the crumb of bread half an inch in thickness, into ifny shape, round, oval, or square, that may be preferred, and fry them in hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned. Drain them from the fat and they are ready to serve. They are used for garnish. Time to fry, five minutes. Croutons (a I'Artois). Fry some croutons {sec the preceding recii:)e). Pour over them a jjuree of young peas (sec Peas, Puree of), thinned with a little stock, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Ser -e as hot as possible. Time, five minutes to fry the croiitons. Sufficient, a quart of pm-ee for four or five persons. Probable cost of peas, when in fuU season, 6d. per peck. Crullers. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Add half a pound of sugar, a pinch of salt, five well-beaten eggs, one table-spoonful of ground cinnamon, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a table-spoonful of saleratus. Beat all together thoroughly for some minutes, then add as much floui- as wiU make a soft dough. Cut it in strips about three inches long and one wide, twist these and drop them into a little boiling lard. When they are lightly browned, they are done enough. Drain them," and, serve with a little pounded sugar strewn over them. Time, ten minutes to fry the crullers. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Crumbs, Fried Bread (with which to di-edge Hams or Bacon). Place a crust of bread in a cool oven, when it is crisp and biown, roll it into dust with a rolling-pin, pass it through a coarse sieve, and bottle the powder until wanted. Or, put the crumbs of bread into a frying-pan with a little clarified butter, stir them constantly till they are brightly browned, and drain them before the fire. Time to fry, CBU ( 166 ) CRU five or six minutes ; time to brown the crust, it should be left all night in a cool oven. Crumbs, Substitute for. Some cooks, when frying fish, substitute oatmeal for grated bread-crumbs. It costs comparatively nothing, and requires no preparation. Crumpets. Warm one pint of new milk and one ounce of butter in a saucepan ; when the butter melts, take it from the fii'e, let it cool a little, and mix with it a beaten egg, a pinch of salt, and fioiu- enough to make it into batter; lastlj", put with it a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm j place for a quarter of an hour. Bake the crumpets slightly on an iron plate made for the : purpose, and well greased. If this is not at hand, they may be baked in the frying-pan. When one side appears sufficiently cooked turn them quickly on the other. Crumpets may, however, be bought for a trifling expense, and as they take a good deal of trouble to prepare, it does not seem worth while to make them at home when they can be xaurchased. They should be toasted and plentifully buttered ; they will be soft and woolly ; they are rather like a blanket soaked in butter, and are nearly as indigestible. Time to bake, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 4 . each. Allow two for each person. Crumpets, Scotch.. Crumpets in Scotland are made with oatmeal or unbolted flour instead of the ordinary flour. Crumpet and Muffin Pudding. Butter a plain round mould, and place in it alternately two muffins and three crumpets. Split open the muffins and put a little red currant jelly in each. Pom- over them a light batter, cover the mould closely, and boil or steam for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five persons. Crust, Butter, for Boiled Puddings. Put one pound of flour, a pinch of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder into a basin, mix them well, then lub into them six ounces of fresh butter. Work the mixture with a knife or fork into a paste by the addition of half a pint of water. Roll it out once or twice, and it -will be ready for use. Butter must be used for pudding-crust when suet is disliked, as lard is not nice for boiled puddings. If a richer crust is prefen-ed, another ounce or two of butter may be added, but for ordinary puddings the crust just described is excellent. Time, a quarter of an horn- to prepare. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a pudding large enough for three or four persons. Crust, Common, for Raised Pies. Melt a quarter of a jjouiad of butter and a quarter of a pound of lard in half a pint of water. Put two pounds of flour into a basin, and when the butter and lard are melted in the water, pour them into the flour, stii-ring it all the time. Work the mixture with the hands to a stiff paste, and, before making it up, put it on the hearth with a cloth over the basin. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, od. per pound. Crust, Dripping, for Kitchen Pies. Rub six ounces of nicely-clarillud bc(.'f dii2)ping into a pound of flour. Add a pincli of salt, :! small tea-spoenful of baking-powder, and u table-spoonful of sugar. Make the mixtuK into a paste b}- stirring into it half a pint (n water, and roll it out two or tlu'ee times. It is then ready for use. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per xjund. Crust for Fruit Tarts.- Mix a pimh of salt and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar with a pound of dry flour. Break si.x ounces of fresh butter into small pieces, crumble it into the flour, and work it into a smooth paste with a little new milk. Roll it out two or three times, and in doing so, add two ounces more of butter, and touch it with the hands as little as possible. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to i reparc, twenty minutes. l*robable cost, 9d. per pound. Crust for French Tarts, Rich. Crumble six ounces of Ijutter into half a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and sufficient cold water to make it into a light paste. Then roll it, fold it over several times, and touch it very lightly. The less handling it has the better it will be. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Crust, Good. Mix two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and a pinch of salt in a pound of flour, rub into it half a pound of butter, and mix the whole lightly together with a fork by adding the yolks of two eggs and sufficient water to work it into a smooth paste. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Crust, Lard. Rub half a pound of lard into a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and make it into a paste by mixing with it a cupful of water. The unmelted lard, freed from skin and thinly sliced, makes very good pastry ; but a mixture of lard and dripping, or lard and butter, makes a better crust than lard alone. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cosst, lOd. per pound. Crust, Pate Brisee. Pate Brisee, the short, crisp ciust which is .'io much used by the French for pies, is made by working th-e buttei', lard, or suet thoroughly into the flour, which must be very th-y, before it is moistened ; six ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, and a small cupful of water may be allowed for every pound of flour, and if it is to be used for raised pies, it must be made rather stiff. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Crust, Short, Common. Mix two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, and a heaped tea-spoonful of baking-powder with one pound of dry flour. Rub into it three ounces of good beef dripping, and work it into a smooth pa.-.te with a little boiling milk. Handle it as little as possible. Bake in a moderate oven. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Crust, Suet, for Puddings. Allow six or eight ounces of suet and a pinch of salt I for every pound of flour. Carefully remove the i sldn from the suet, and shred it as finely as cue ( 167 cue ;, strewang a little floui- over it two or thi'ec times to prevent its sticking together. Mix it with the Hour, and work it into a lirm paste with a little cold water. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Cucumbers. This delicious fruit is in seasen frem April to September. Though it may be served in various ways, it is never so good as when eaten raw. Many persons object to it on account of its being so indigestible, and certainly this is the case ; but we believe it would be found to be less so if the rind were eaten with the cucumber. If the stalk end be kept standing in cold water, and the water be changed every day, cucumbers will keep hard for a week or two. Cucumber Ketchup. Cucumber ketchup is useful for flavouring sauces which are to be served with rather tasteless meats, such as rabbits, veal, sweetbreads, calf's brains, &c. It is made by paring and mashing cucimibers, sprinkling salt over them, and leaving them for some hours to draw out the juice, which is then sferained, and boiled with a liberal allowance of seasoning. The ketchup must be kept in bottles and closely corked. Time, twenty-four hours to extract the juice. Sufficient, two dessert-spoonfuls of ketchup for half a pint of sauce. Probable cost of cucumbers, when plentiful, 6d. each. Cucumber Mangoes. - Choose large, green cucumbers, not very ripe, cut a long narrow strip out of the sides, and scoop out the seeds with a tea-spoon. Pound a few of these Avith a little scraped horse-radish, finely -shred garlic, mustard-seed, and white pepper; stuff the hollows out of which the seeds came as full as they will hold, replace the strips, and bind them m their places with a little thi-ead. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them, and pour it on them while hot ; repeat this for three days. The last time boil the vinegar with half an ovmce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of mustard-seed, a stick of horse-radish, and one clove of garlic to everj' half gallon of vinegar. Put the cucumbers into jars, pour the boiling liquid over them, tie the jars closely down, and set them aside for use. Time, four days. Probable cost of cucumbere, 6d. each when in full season. eucum.ber Sauce. Take thi-ee young cucumbers, slice them rather thickly, and fry them in a little butter till they arc lightly browned. Dredge them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer them till tender in as much good brown gra-vy as will cover them. VTiite sauce or melted butter may be substituted for the gravy if these are more suitiible for the dish with which the cucumber sauce is to be served. Time, about a quarter of an hovu" to simmer the cucumbers. Probable cost, small cucumbers, 4d. etich. Sufficient, three young cucumbers for one pint of sauce. Cucumber Slice. This machine is used for cutting cucumbers into very thin slices. In appearance it soniewhat resembles the Scotch hands whicli are iLsed for shaping butter, with a sharp steel blade running down the middle of the hand. Before using it the cucumber should be pared, then held in an upright position, and worked briskly and rather sharply backwards and forwards on the knife, so that' each movement of the hand will take oif a slice of cucumber. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. eucum.ber Soup. Cut the cucumbers into slices, strew a little salt over them, and place them between two plates to drain off the juice. Put them into a saucepan, and cover them with some good white stock. Simmer them gently for forty minutes, then add as much more stock as may be required, and a little sorrel. Season with salt and cayenne, and thicken the soup with ground rice or arrowroot. When it boils, draw it from the fire for a minute or two, and add a pint of milk mixed -sWth the yolks of two eggs. The soup must not, of course, boil after the eggs are added. Time, about one hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Allow one large cucumber for three pints of soup, including half a pint of milk. Cucumber, Stuffed. Peel a large cucumber. Kemo 'e a narrow piece from the side, and scoop out the seeds with a tea-spoon. Fill the cavity with nicely-flavoured forcemeat, j replace the piece, and bind it round with strong i white thread. Line the bottom of a saucepan i with slices of meat and bacon, put the cucumber tipon it, and then two or three more slices. Cover the whole with nicely-flavoured stock, I and if more A'egetables are desired, two or thi-ee sliced carrots, turnips, and onions may be added. Season with salt and pepper, and [ simmer gently, until cucumber, meat, and veget- I ables are sufficiently cooked. If the cucumber is [ tender before the rest, it should be taken out, j and kept hot. Thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, and pom- it over the cucumber. Time, about one hour. Probable cost of cucumber, 6d. or Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cucumber Vinegar. Wipe as many ! cucumbers as you may intend to use, slicf I them, without jxiiing them, into a wide-mouthed I bottle, and put with them two or three shallots, I if the flavour is liked. Pour over them as much j vinegar as will cover them, and add a clove of garhc, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt for every quart of vinegar. Let them iafuse for eleven or twelve days, then strain the vinegar into small bottles, and cork these tightly. Cucumber vinegar is very good to flavour salads, hashes, &c., or to eat with cold meat. The young leaves of bumet when soaked in vinegar give just the same flavour as cucumber. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each when in full season. As much vinegar should be poured over as will just cover the slices. Cucumber White Sauce. Peel a large cucumber, cut it into small pieces, and take out I the pips. Simmer the pieces gently in a little j salt and water until quite tender, then di-aiu them, and stew them for a few minutes longer I in good white sauce, in which they must be served. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. for half a pint. Sufficient for a small dish. Cucumbers (a I'Espagnole). Cut the cucumbers into pieces about two inches long cue ( 168) cue and one inch wide, remove the seeds, strew a little salt over them, and let them remain between two plates for an hour or more. Drain off the juice, and put them into a saucepan, cover them with good stock, and let tliem simmer gently until quite tender, which will be in about half an hour. Drain them, pile them on a dish, pour some good brown sauce over them, and serve. Time, one hour. Probable cost of circumbers, Gd. each. Sufficient, one large cucumber for half a pint of sauce. Cucumbers (a la roulette). Peel two small, y?jung cucumbers. Kemove the seeds. Cut the fruit into pieces about one inch thick and two inclies long, stew these till tender in water with a little salt and vinegar in it; di-ain them. Put into a stewpan one ounce of butter and three-quarters of an ounce of Hour ; mix the butter and Hour well, and let them remain about three minutes. Add gradually one pint of nicely-ilavoured stock. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Put in the cucumbers, with a seasoning of salt and pepper, and in a minute or two two table-spoonfuls of cream. Draw the sauce from the hre, and, just before serving it, add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and the juice of half a lemon. Time, one hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Cucumbers, Fried. Take the rind from the cucumbers, slice them, dredge over them a little pepper, and lay them in flour. Make some butter vcri hot, put in the slices, and when they are tender and lightly browned, strew a very little salt over them ; drain them, and place them on a hot dish under the steak or hash with which tlioy are to be served. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each. Sufficient, one small cucumber for one pound of rump steak. Cucumbers, Pickled. If the cucumbers are very young and small they may be pickled whole, if not, they are better cut into thick .slices. Sprinkle salt rather plentifully over them, and let them remain twenty-four hours. Drain them from the juice, dry them in a cloth, and pour over them boiling vinegar, with half an ounce of mustard-seed, one ounce of salt, one ounce of long popper, half a bruised nutmeg, and a pinch of cayenne to every quart of dnegar. Cover them closely, and let them remain until next day, when the vinegar must again be boiled and poured over the cucumbers, and this process repeated each day for four days. They should then be covered closelj , and care should be taken with these, as with all pickles, that they are thoroughly covered ?ivith vinegar. It is best to pickle cucumbers by themselves, as they are apt to become mouldy. If any sign of this appears (and they should be looked iit every three or four weeks to ascertain it, and on this account should be kept in a widc-moulhed glass bottle instead of an earthen jar), put them into a fresh dry bottle, boil the vinegar up again, and pour it over them. Time to piclcle, one week. Probable cost of cucumbers, 4d. to 6d. each. Cucumbers, Preserved (An excellent sweetmeat for dessert). Choose cucumbers that ai-e young, fresh, and nearly free from seeds, split them, cut the pieces across, take out the seeds, and lay them for three days in brine strong enough to bear an egg. Put over them a cabbage-le;if or vine-leaves to keep them down, and jjlace a cover over the pan. At the end of that time take them out, wash them in cold water, and set them on the fire with cold water, and a tiny lump of alum. As the water heats, keep adding a little more, until the cucumbers are a blight green, which they ought to be in a short time, and if they are not, change the water again and let them heat as before, but they must not boil. Drain them, and when cool pour o\-er them a syrup, made by boiling a quart of water, a stick of cinnamon, one ounce of ground ginger, and one pound of loaf sugar for every pound of cucumber. Boil the cinnamon and ginger in the water for an hour, then drain it and add the sugar, and boil to a thick syrup. Let the cucumbers lie in this for two days, when the syrup mu st bo boiled for ten minutes with them. Put the preparation into jars and leave it until next day, when it must be covered closely. These dii-ections must be minutely attended to, or the sweetmeat will not be a success. Tinie, six days. Cucumbers, Stewed. Take two or three young fresh cucumbers. Peel them, and cut them into quarters lengthwise, remove the seeds, dry them, dip them in flour and fry them in hot butter till they ai-e lightly browned. Lift them out with an egg-slice, drain them, and put them into a saucepan with a tea-cupful of good brown gravy. Season with pepper and salt, and stew them gently until tender. Just before serving add a dessertspoonful of Chilly ?inegar and a small lump of sugar. Tinio, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for ;i moderate-sized dish. Cucumbers Stewed with Onions. Prepare the cucumbers as in the last recipe, and fry with them an equal number of slices of onion, being very careful that they do not burn. Stew these in the gravy with the cucumbers. If it would be prefei-red a little richer, the yolks of two eggs might be added to the sauce, but of course if this were do- Q the sauce must not be allowed to boil fii .-r the addition. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 5d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Cucumbers, To Dress. Pare the cucumber and cut it into thin slices, or pare it round and round into ribands, leaving out the watery part. Sprinkle a little salt over, and in a few minutes drain off the water which exudes. Put the slices on a clean dish, and pour a little oil and vinegar over them, and if necessary add a little more salt and pepper. Many persons like a few slices of onion served with the cucumber, or a tea-spoonful of the vinegar in which onions have been pickled, may be added to the other vinegar. Probable cost, cucumbers 6d. each, when in full season. Cucumbers, To Keep, for Winter Use (German method). I'are and slice the cucumbers. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and cover them with a dish. The next day CUL ( 1G9 ) cun drain oft' the liquor. Place the slices of cucumber in a jar, with a little salt between each lay(T, and tie them up. Before using them rinsa them in fresh water, and dress them with pepper, oil, and vinegar. Time, twenty-four hours to stand in salt. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each, when in full season. Cullis, or Rich Gravy. Put one pound of undressed ham or bacon, about a quarter of an inch thick, at the bottom of a good-sized stewpan. Place upon it two pounds of lean beef or veal, a largo onion stuck with three cloves, a large carrot sliced, a bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery seeds tied in muslin, or a few sticks of celery, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and two tlades of mace. Pour over these a breakfastcupful of water. Cover closely, and simmer gently for half an hour, when the liquid will have nearly all boiled away. Turn the meat once or twice that it may be equally browned on both sides. Pour over it three pints of boiling water or stock, and simmer gently for three hours. It is usual to allow a pint of water to every pound of meat stewed. Thicken the gravy with a table-spoonful of brown thickening, or with two small table-spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water or cold grav}', and added gradually to the contents of the stewpan. Simmer twenty minutes longer. If too thick, a little water should be added to the gravy, if not thick enough it should be stewed a little longer. Strain the gravy, and before using it lift off the fat, which will cake at the top when the liquid is cold. This gravy will keep a week, but in hot weather it would 1)0 well to boil it up once or twice. This preparation has various names : Cullis, Espa-:;nole Sauce, Savoury Gravy, and Brown Gravy. It is used for Sauces, Morels, and Truffles. Wine and ketchup may bo added if desired. Pi-obablc cost, 3s. 4d. for this quantity. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Cullis, or Rich. Gravy (another way). Talvo the bones of a largo leg of mutton, or of a piece of beef that weighed before cooking eight or ten pounds. Break it into small pieces and put it into a large saucepan with five pints of water. Bring it to a boil, and let it simmer very gently for five hours, being careful that it keeps on simmering slowly all the time. 8train it. Skim it carefully. If there bo time, leave it until the next day, so that the fat may te entirely removed. Return it to the saucepan, and put with it a large onion stuck with three cloves, a bay leaf, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery seed tied in a muslin bag, or a f oav sticks of celery, a large caiTot sliced, a bunch of savoury herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a blade of mace. Simmer these gently for two hours ; strain; stir into the mixture a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat and a little browning (?see Colouring) . Thicken it with a table-spoonful of brown thickening, or with from one to two table-spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly M-ith a little cold water, and added gradually to the contents of the saucepan, and let j it simmer twenty minutes longer. If too ' thick, a little water may be added ; if not thick 12 enough, stew it a little longer. Strain it from the vegetables before putting it aside. This gravy will keep a week, but in hot \ 'eathe it would be well to boil it up once or twice. Time, eight hours. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the bones Sufficient for one pint and a half. Cup Puddings. Beat four ounces of butter to a cream ; mi.x smoothly M'ith it four ounces of fine flour, four table-spoonfuls of milk, a small pinch of salt, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and four ounces of finely-sifted sugar; beat all well together; butter seven or eight cujjs or small basins; a little more than half fill them, and bake them I in a good oven. Turn them out, and serve -with j wine sauce, or a little jam. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Allow one for each person. Cup Pudding. Ixv.\lid Cookery (another way a wholesome, easily-digested pudding for an invalid). Mix a small teaspoonful of flour and a tiny jjinch of salt very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of cold water ; pour over it, stin-ing all the time, a tea-cupful of boiling milk, and when it is cold strain it, to insure its being j erfectly free from lumps, and add one fresh egg well beaten. Sweeten with a small tea-spoonful of sugar, pour it into a buttered basin, and bake it for twenty minutes. Turn out to serve. If it be allowed, a little sherry is an improvement. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. Curacoa. Take a quarter of a pound of the thin rind of Seville oranges, and pour over it a pint of boiling water ; when cool, add two quarts of brandy or rectified si irits of wine, and let it remain for ten or twelve days, stirring it every day. Make a clarified syrup of two pounds of finely-sifted sugar and one pint of water; add this to the lorandy, &c. Line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and that with chemists' filtering paper; let the liquid pass through two or three times, till it is quite bright. This will require a little jiatience. Put it into small bottles, and cork it closely. Time, twelve days. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a little more than three quarts of curac 'oa. Cura(,'oa imparts an agreeable flavour to cream and to punch, and is an excellent liquor. Curapoa Jelly. Curacoa jelly is made b}' substituting Seville orange-rind for the lemon-rind generally used in making calf's foot jelly, and using curacoa instead of sherry or brandy. Curacoa Sauce. Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot very smoothly with a little cold water, and pour upon it haK a pint of boiling water. Put it on the fire, and let it boil for three or four minutes ; sweeten it, and flavour' it with a wine-glassful of curagoa. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the curac 'oa. Sufficient for a small pudding. Curate's Pudding. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, with the thin rind of a large lemon, a small pinch of salt, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a heaped table CUR ( no ) CUR spoonful of sugar. Let it stand by the side of j the fire until the flavour of the lemon is ex- ! tracted, and the butter dissolved. Put it aside I to cool. AVhisk the yolks of four and the ?whites of two eggs, mix with them gradually and smoothly four table- spoonfuls of flour, add the milk, &c., and pour the mixture into buttered cups. The cups must not be much more than half filled. Turn out, and serve with wiae sauce. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Allow one for each person. Curd. The most usual way to "turn" milk, as it is caUed, that is, to make it curdle, is to mix it, when warm, but not hot, A ith a little rennet, and let it stand in a warm place until the curd is solid and the whey clear. Rennet is made by obtaining from the butcher the dried inner stomach of a calf, and soaking a tiny piece of it in a cupful of hot water for four hours. The liquid at the end of that time is what is called rennet. An inch of the dried skin so soaked in water will turn a gallon. The less rennet used, the more delicate will be the. ciu-d. The skin may be kept a long time if it is hung in a cool place ; it should be covered to protect it from dust. Eennet may also be bought at the grocer's in small bottles at Is. each. A little lump of alimi put into cold milk and set on the fire will turn milk, or a few well-beaten eggs stirred in just as the milk is boiling. A pinch of salt added after the milk curdles will assist the wiey to separate. Whey is by some considered a wholesome drink for feverish persons, and in country places the lasses often wash in it to improve their complexions. Curd Cheesecakes. Turn one quart of milk witli a little rennet ; di-ain off the whey, and mix with the curd a piece of butter the size of a large egg, beaten to a cream; press it through a coarse sieve, and mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of pounded loaf sugar, the peel of a lemon finely shred, two table-spoonfuls of currants, two well-beaten eggs, and a dozen sweet and two bitter almonds, blanched and pounded. Line some patty-pans with a good crust, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Curd Fritters. Press a pint of curds thi-ough a mortar, and mix with it the whites of two and the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, a dessert-spooni'ul of flom-, a table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a pinch of pounded cinnamon. Put some lard into a frying-pan, let it get quite hot, drop the batter into it, fry until lightly bro vned, drain the fritters from the fat, and serve them as hot as possible. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for five or six persons. Curd Pudding. Tm-n a quart of milk mth a httlc rennet; drain off the whey, and mix the curd with two ounces of butter beaten to a cream, three table-spoonfuls of finelygrated bread-criunbs, two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of new milk, a little grated nutmeg, and a glass of white wine. Butter some plain round moulds, rather more than half fiU them with the mixture, and bake them in a good oven for about twenty minutes. Tui-n them out, sift a little sugar over them, stick a few sliced and blanched almonds in them, and serve with cura(,'oa sauce. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Curd Star. Put a pint of milk, the rind of a lemon, and a tiny pinch of salt into a saucepan, and mix with it, when boiling, four eggs well beaten ; boil until it curdles, sweeten, and season it with a little wine, and let it boil until the whey separates entirely. Drain it through a colander or any round or star-shaped mould that has holes in it, and when it is cold and firm, and the whey has drained quite oft', tui-n it out and serve with custard round the dish, but not upon the star. Time, a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost, Is. 2d, including the custard. Sufficient for four persons. Curds and Cream. Curd is usually served in a dish with cream, sweetened and flavoured, poured round it ; it should be di-ained from the whey and flavoured with a little light wine. Time, a quarter of an hour to separate the curd. Sufficient, a quart of milk curdled and a pint of cream for a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 2s. Currants. Under the general name currants are included the red, white, and black currants which grow in our gardens, and the small dried grapes imported into this country which are sold in the grocers' shops, and winch are so largely used in making cakes and puddings. The juice of red, white, and black currants is specially adapted for medicinal purposes, and the fruit is also extensively used for jams, jellies, tarts, and dessert. Currant and Raspberry Tart. The addition of a few raspberries very greatly improves the flavour of a red currant tart, but they must be carefully looked over to see that there are no little worms inside the berries after they are picked. Strip the currants from the stalks, and allow three heaped table-sspoonfuls of moist sugar to every quart of fruit. Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with good crust {sec Crust for Fruit Tarts). Place an inverted cup in the middle of the dish. Fill the latter with the fruit, and cover it with the same crust as the edges. Ornament the top as fancy dictates, and bake in a good oven. Sift a little pounded sugar over the tart before serving it. Time to bake, half an hour or more, according to the size of the dish. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Currant Cakes. For currant cakes baked in a dish or mould several recipes have already been given under Christmas Cakes, Plum Cakes, &c. ; two or three more are given here for cakes, which may either be diopped in small rounds on a buttered tin, or put into a buttered dish, and baked in a quick oven. Clean and pick two ounces of currants ; rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into half a pound of flour, add the currants, a little grated nutmeg, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. ]Mix aU together with two well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient new milk to make a light CUR ( 171 ) CITR dough. Roll out thin, and cut into cakes. Or wash and pick one pound of currants ; beat one pound of fresh butter to a cream, add one pound of sugar, one pound and a half of flour, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, the currants, and four eggs well beaten. Another recipe : Clean and pick half a pound of dried currants ; beat a quarter of a'pound of butter to a cream ; mix with it a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound of dried flour, the yolks of four and the whites of three eggs well beaten, the cm-rants, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon ; beat all well together for a quarter of an hour-. Another way (economical) : Eub a quarter of a pound of di-ipping into one pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, two heaped tea-si oonfuls of baking powder, three ounces of picked currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and enough milk or water to form a light dough. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Sufiicient, one pound of flour, with the other ingredients, will make about one dozen cakes. Probable cost, from d. to 2d. each. Currant Champagne. Take four quarts of very ripe white currants and four quarts of very ripe red currants ; pour over them six quarts of cold water, and bruise and stir them about every day for six days. Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, and put four- pounds of loaf sugar to every gallon of liquid ; add one ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, and two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast. Leave the wine for two or three days, then put it into a cask, which, when the fermentation is quite over, must be closed. It will be ready to use in six or eight months. Probable cost of currants, variable ; when plentiful, 4d. per quart. Currant Cream Ice. Take one piut of red cui-rant- juice {see Currant, Eed, Cream), mix with it a pint of cream, sweeten and freeze. A few raspberries or strawberries are an improvement. The ice-cream may be made A\-ith red currant jelly instead of juice if the fresh fruit is not in season. Currant- water ice is much more wholesome and refreshing than cream ice. It is made by mixing half a pound of sugar, a table-spoonful of lemon-jiiice, and a cupful of water with every pint of juice, and then freezing the mixture like cream. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart [see also Currant Water Ice). Currant, Red, Cream. Express a pint of red currant-juice. In order to do this pick the currants and put them into an earthen jai-. Cover it closely and put it into a large pan of cold water, which must be so full that it wiU reach to the top of the jar. Let it simmer for two hours. Drain the juice from the currants, mix a pint of it with a pint of thick cream, and whisk it until thick. Sweeten with loaf sugar. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one qua:t. Currant, Red, Cream (another way). Put a small jar of red currant- jelly, the juice of a lemon, half a cupful of water, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar into a saucepan. When the jelly is dissolved, let the mixture cool a little, then add more sugar if necessary. Time, haK an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one quart. Currant Custard. Express the juice from some fine fresh ripe currants. This is best done by putting them in a jar, which must be covered closely and placed in a large pan of cold water, and simmered gently until the juice flows freely. ]\Iix a pint of water with everj- pint of juice, add a little sugar, and put the liquid on the tire. 5Iix half a pound of ground rice smoothly with a little of the liquid while cold, and add this gradually to the rest. Let it simmer gently, stirring it constantly, xmtil it is quite smooth and well thickened, then pour it into cups or glasses to be taken as custard. Grate a little nutmeg, and put one ratafia on the surface of each custard. The custards are the better for standing a night to stiffen. If set in some very cold place for instance, in a tin pail plunged in a tub of cold water fresh drawn from the pump ? these custards will be as pleasant to the palate in sultry weather as iced custards, without theirdisadvantages. Arrowroot may be used instead of ground rice. By increasing the quantity of either ingredient, the custard may bo made stiff enough to be set in a mould, and tui-ned out before serving. Time, a quarter of an hour to boU ; about two hours to express the juice. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Currant Custard (another way). Take a breakfast-cupful of red currant-juice, expressed as in the last recipe. Pour it when hot upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir it till the sugar is dissolved. Put it into a saucepan, and add to it very gradually the wellbeaten yolks of four eggs. Stir' it over a moderate fire till it begins to thicken, then pour it out and continue to stir till nearlj' cool, when a cupful of cream must be added. Serve in custard glasses. Time to simmer, a few minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for six or eight glasses, each one three-parts full. Currant Dumpling. Make a light suet crust [see Crust, Suet). Before moistening it mix haK a pound of diied currants with everjpound of flour. Add milk to make a light batter, and boil either in one large diunpling tied in a floured cloth, or in half a dozen without cloths. In the latter case the dumplings should be di-opped into boiling water, and be looked after at first to see that they do not stick to the pan. Serve with lemon-juice and sugar. Time to boil, one hour and a half with a cloth ; half an hour without. The dumplings will rise to the top when done enough. Probable cost, lOd., for half a dozen small dumplings. Currant Fool. Strip some fresh, ripe red currants from the stalks, and stew them gently with three table-spoonfuls of sugar to every pint of fruit. Press them through a sieve, and when nearh' cold mix with them finely-grated bread-cruml s and cream or new milk. Time to stew the currants, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or six persons. Currant Fritters. Whisk three eggs thoroughly, and mix with them gradually six table-spoonfuls of fine floirr and a pinch of salt. Beat the mixtui-e until quite smooth, then add CUR ( 172) CUR one pint of milk. Put a little lard or dripping into a frpng-pan. AVhen quite hot, stir a handful of picked and dried currants into the batter, and drop it into the pan in fritters about the size of a penny bun. Three or four may be cooked together, but they must bo kept apart. When lightly browned on one side turn them over on the other. Drain the fat from them, and serve them on a hot napkin. Time to fry, a few minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Currant Fritters without Eggs. Mix a lAnt of mild alo with as much Hour as will make a thiclc batter. Take care that it is perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Add a few cui-rants, a little sugar and grated nutmeg, and fry as in the last recipe. Sufficient for four persons. Time to fry, a few minutes. Probable cost, od. Currant Jam, Black. Take equal weights of pounded lump sugar and picked fruit. Put the fruit in the preserving-pan, and pour into it two table-spoonfuls of water for every pound of fruit; boil and skim. When the fruit ha.s boiled for twenty minutes, add the sugar. Stir the fruit well to keep it from burning, and boil it half an liour longer, counting from the time when it simmers equally all over. Put a spoonful of the juice and fruit to cool upon a plate. If the juice runs off, the jam must be ?boiled longer, if it jellies it is clone enough. The jam will not keep imless the fru'it was gathered when dry. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a pound of fruit with sugar for a pound of jam (see also the close of the recipe Currant Jelly, Black). Currant Jam, Black (superior) . Boil two pounds of black currants until the juice flows fi'oely. Put the fruit through a sieve, leave behind whatever will not pass through. Boil the pulp for five or six minutes, lift it from the fire, and stir into it a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Boil it again until it thickens, and pour it into jars for use. Time to boil the pulp with the sugar, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, currants 4d. per quart. Currant Jam, Red and White. Take some fine ripo red or white currants ; let them be gathered on a dry day, and be sure that they are fresh and free from dirt. Strip them from the stalks, and weigh them with an equal weight of finely- pounded loaf sugar. Let them remain on the fire exactly nine minutes after boiling. Pour t]ie jam into jars, and cover it with brandied papers, and put over these tissue-paper dipped in gum. There is no economy in using a smaller jirdji. r'ion of sugar, as the jam lejuires to bi i; so lanvh longer that the quantity is reduced sufficiently to make the difference. Probable cost, when plentiful, 4d. per quart. Sufficient, one pint of fruit for one pound and a quarter of jam. Currant Jelly, Black. Draw the juice from some fine ripe black currants. In order to do this, put them, as we have told already {see Currant Custard), into an earthen jar, cover this closely, put it in a pan of cold water, and boil the fiiiit gently until the juice is exStrain it through a jelly-bag, but do not press it, and boil it for twenty minutes. Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and boil ten minutes longer. If the jelly becomes firm when a spoonfid is put on a plate it is boiled enough ; if not, boil a little longer. Put it into small jars and cover closely, first with brandied papers and afterwards with gummed tissue-paper. If a larger proportion of sugar were added it would jelly sooner, but it would then be too luscious to bo agTceablo in sickness. If the juice is not pressed from the currants, the latter, with the addition of a little sugar and water, will boil into a jam fit to be used for kitchen and nursery puddings, but it will not keep long. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. About one pint of juice may be obtained from two quarts of fruit. Currant Jelly, Red. Red currant jelly may bo made in tlie same way as black, remembering only that one pound of sugar will be required for one pint of juice. The flavour may bo improved by the addition of a few raspberries, and both the flavour and colour if one pint of white currants is used with three of red. When straining the juice the fruit nmst not be pressed or the jelly wiU not be clear. Some prefer to sweeten red currant jelly by pounding loaf sugar very finely, and making it quite hot in the oven, taking care that it is not in the least discoloured ; then mixing it with the juice which, thougli hot, must not boil until the sugar is dissolved. Be careful to use cither a silver or a wooden spoon in making jelly ; with any other the flavour will be spoilt. The jelly may be made very stiff by adding half an ounce of isinglass to each pint of juice. The isinglass should be dissolved in a little of the juice, and put in with the sugar. Time, about two houi-s to express the juice. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Three pints of fruit will probably yield one jnnt of juice. Currant Jelly, White. This jelly may be made in the same way as the last, or the fruit may be bruised and the juice strained through a jelly-bag. It must not be pressed, or the jelly will not be clear. The fruit wliich is left in the bag may be boiled into nursery preserve. Allow one pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Put both into a preserving-pan, stir the liquid iintil it boils, and boil for six minutes. "When pounded sugar is used for jellies it should be prepared at home. That which is bought at the shops ma}' be adulterated, and then the colour oCT;he jeUy would be spoilt. If it is wished to have the jelly very stiff, half an ounce of isinglass may be used for every pint of juice. It should be dissolved in a little of the juice and put in with the sugar. Three pints of currants will probably yield one pint of juice. Probable cost of currants, 6d. per quart. Currant Liquor. Put black currants 'O'ith an equal quantity of leaves into a jar, and cover them with rectified spirits of wine. Let them soak for seven or eight weeks, then strain the liquid through a linen bag, and mix with it a syrup made by boiling one pound of sugar CUR ( 1'3) CUR -with half a pint of water. The syrup should be added wliile hot. Probable cost, currants, 4d. ijer quart when plentiful. As much spirit should be poured over the fruit as will cover it, and half a pound of sugar should be allowed to every pound of fruit. Currant Lozenges, Black. Put three quarts of ripe black currants, perfectly free from dust, into a preserving-pan, and let them simmer gently until the juice flows freely, assisting its tiow by bruising the fruit with a wooden spoon. Squeeze tlie friut through a sieve, and piess it to obtain as much juice as possible. Keturn the juice to the pan, with a quarter of a pound of brown sugar to every pint of juice. Let it boil f or tlii'ee-quarters of an hour, and a few minutes before taking it off, add half an ounce of dissolved isinglass for eveiy quart of juice. Pour the paste rather thinly over plates, and put it before the fire for three days to di-y. Put the cakes into a tin box with a little -white paper between each, and cut them into lozenges, as required. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Currant Pancakes, Put the tliin rind of a lemon into a saucepan with a 2Jiiit of milk, and let it stand by the side of the fire for some time to draw out the flavour. When this is extracted, put with the milk two ounces of butter and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and when the butter is melted, put the milk on one side to cool. Mix one pound of flour very smoothly with six well-beaten eggs and two table-spoonfuls of Avater, add a pinch of salt and a table-spoonful of brandy, and afterwards the cooled millc. Molt a little butter or lard in' the frying-pan ; when quite hot, pour in sufiicient batter to cover it thinly, immediately strew a few dried and picked currants over it, loosen the edges, brown the pancake on both sides, and serve with a little sugar and lemonjuice. Time, a few minutes to fry. Allow one for each person. Probable cost. Is. 2d., exclusive of the brandy. Currant Paste. Put any quantity of ripe currants, either red or v hite, or a part of each mixed, into a hair sieve; press out their juice into a preserving-pan, put it on the fire, and aUow three-quarters of a pound of pounded sugar to every pound of pulp. Keep the juice constantly stirred until it is reduced to jelly. Let it boil a minute or two, then put it into a dish and serve it when cold with a little thick cream.j Time, boil it until it is thick, and jellies. Probable cost of currants, 4d per quart. Currant Pudding, Black, Red or "Wtlite. Cut a piece of bread about half an inch thick, the size and shape of half a crown. Place it at the bottom of a round basin, and put some fingers of bread, either crust or crumb, in an upright position round it, leaving a distance of an inch between each finger. Boil a pint and a half of currants stripped from their stalks, with a quarter of a pound of sugar. When the juice flows freeh', put it and the fruit gently into the mould, a spoonful at a time, and the more solid part first, so as to keep the bread in its position. Cover the top thickly with little sippets of bread, place a plate over the top, and over that a weight to squeeze in the juice, and leave the pudding till cold. Turn it out before serving, and send a little custaid or cream to table with it. (Stale bread may be used for this pudding. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the custard. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Currant Pudding, Boiled, Black, Red, or White. Line a plain round mould which has been well buttered with a good suet crust {see Crust, Suet for Puddings). Put in tlie currants, stripped of their stalks, and allow a quaiter of a povmd of moist sugar for a quart of cuirants. Place a cover on the top, make the edges very secure, so that the juice cannot escape, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth. Put it into lioiliii water. A few raspberries or strawbeixies are an agreeable addition. Time, two hom-s and a half to boil. Probable cost of currants, about 4d. per quart. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Currant Salad. Pick equal weights of white and red currants, strawberries, and cheiTies, and place them in alternate layers on a high dish. Strew a little white sugar on each layer, and pour over the whole some thick cream, or place little lumps of Devonshire cream at short distances from each other upon the fruit. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufiicient, a half pound of each fruit for a good dish. Currant Sauce for Sucking Pig. Wash and pick one ounce of cmrauts. Boil them in half a pint of water for a few minutes, and pour them over a cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let them soak for a wliilc. Beat them well with a fork, and stii- them into a cupful of good melted butter. Add two tablespoonfuls of the brown gravy made for the pig, a glass of port, and a pinch of salt. Stir the sauce over the fire imtil it is quite smooth. Sometimes currants are simply washed and dried, and sent in on a dish with the pig. Time, half an hour. Pi'obable cost, 6d. per pint, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a small pig. Currant Sauce for Venison. The curiant sauce which used to be served with venison is the same as that given in the la it recipe as intended for sucking pig. O Currant Shrub, White or Red. Put two quarts of red or white curiants into a jar. Cover it closely, and place it in a large pan of cold water. Let it simmer gently until the juice flows freely. Then stiain the juice, and allow six ounces of loaf sugar, and a quart of rum to every pint of juice. The sugar shoidd be stined until dissolved in the warm liquid, and the spirit added afterwai-ds. Strain and bottle for use. Time, one hour- and a half or two hom-s to draw out the juice. Sufficient for three pints of shiub. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Currant Syrup. Take thiee pounds of TL'd and three of white currants. A pound of cherries or a pound of raspberries would I'o ;jn improvement, but they can be dispensed witliBiuise the fruit sKghtly, and put it into an caithen jar. Cover this closely, put it into a CUR (174) CUR saucepan of cold water, and let the fruit simmer gently until the juice flows freely. Strain it once or twice if necessary, and leave it until the next day in some very cool place, being careful to guard it from dust. If the juice is very clear it may then be poured off, leaving any sediment at the bottom of the vessel. Weigh the juice, jiut it into a clean saucepan, and add an equal weight of good sugar broken into small pieces. Let it simmer, and stir it to prevent the sugar sticking to the bottom, but do not let it boil. Remove the scum carefully, and when no more rises, put the syrup into an earthen jar to cool. In twelve hours it may be put into small-sized dry bottles, corked and sealed, and stored in a cool but dry place. This delicious preparation, retaining as it does so completely the flavour of the fruit, is most useful for making isinglass jelly and sauce for sweet puddings ; when mixed "with cold water it makes a refreshing summer diink, and is especially suited to invalids. It is also very nice poured over or round blancmanges or rice moulds. Time, two days. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Currant Water (a refreshing summer di-ink). Mix a quart of red currants and a cupful of raspberries. Bruise them well ; jiour over them two quarts of cold water, and add half a i ound of loaf sugar. Put them into a preserving-pan, and when they begin to simmer, take them off, put with them a little writing-paper soaked in water till it is reduced to a pulp, to assist the clearing, and strain the liquid through a jelly-bag. Add as much sugar as is agreeable to the taste, and serve in glass jugs. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Sufficient for three quarts of water. Currant Water (another way). Dissolve a dessert-spoonful of red or white currant jelly in a tumblerful of wai-m water. Let the liquid get quite cold, then add about ten gi-ains of tartaric acid. This and other cooling summer drinks should be taken in moderation, as they are by no means wholesome. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, ?2d. per glass. Currant Water Ice. Get the juice from a pint of red currants, to which have been added a few raspberries to give additional colour. Add a pound of sugar which has been boiled to a sj-rup with half a pint of water and the juice squeezed from two lemons. Strain the liquid into the mould and freeze. Time, half an hour to draw out the juice. Sufficient for one quart of ice. {fiec also Currant Cream Ice.) "T! Currant Wine, Black. Take six quarts of black currant jun-c ; mix it with six quarts of cold water and twelve pounds of moist sugar. Wlien the sugar is dissolved put the liquor into a cask, which must be kept in a warm, dry room. It win ferment without anything else being added to it. A little of the liquid should be kept with which to fill up the cask when the fermentation is over, and the wine has been well skimmed. Before closing the cask add one quart of brandy. Currant wine should not be bottkd for twelve months, and will fee improved if kept even longer. This wine will be good for several years. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. i Ciirrant Wine, Red. Take three gallons of ripe red cui-rants, jjick from the stalks, bruise them and press out the juice, and infuse the residue in four and a half gallons of cold water. Mix well and repeatedly to insure equal diffusion ; press out the liquor, mix it with the juice, and add fourteen pounds of loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, transfer the whole to a cask large enough to leave some space unfilled, put in the bung and bore a hole through it with the gimlet, and allow the cask to stand where the temperature is not less than seventy degrees, for a month. By that time the fermentation will have greatly decreiised. Add three pounds of sugar, dissolved in two quarts of warai water, shake the cask well, and bung it as before. In about six or eight weeks, on listening at the bunghole, your ear will inform you that fermentation has ceased, then rack off the clear liquor from the sediment, and mix with it a quart of the best French brandy. Set it by in the cellar for about two months, when the liquor is again to be racked off into a clean but not new cask, which should be quite filled ; it must now be tightly bunged down, so as to exclude the air perfectly, and be preserved for three or four years at a temperature of seventy degrees. AVIien necessary the cask should be for this purpose kept near a fire. Time, about three months to cement. Currant Wine, WTiite. "Wliite currant wine may be made in the same way as red, with two ounces of bruised bitter abnonds mixed in the fermenting liquor. Currant Wine from Unripe Fruit. Currants may be Tised for making wine before they are quite lipe. They should be bruised sufficiently to burst the berries, and have the water poured over them : the sugar may be introduced at once. If this is done the wine will be strong and highly flavoured, though not very sweet. The wine must be well strained before it is put into the cask. The same proportions may be allowed for this wine as for black currant, and the same directions may be followed. The only difference wiU be that greater care ynll be required in separating the stalks from the fruit. Currants, Compote of. Pick a quart of ripe red and white currants quite free from dust. Put half a pound of loaf sugar and a breakfastcupful of cold water into a saucepan. Simmer the syrup gently for a quarter of an hour, then put in the currants, and simmer them for ten minutes longer. Put the fruit into a compote dish, pour the syrup over it, and serve cold. Currants prepared thus are excellent served with blancmange or a rice mould. Probable cast of currants, 4d. to 6d. jjer quart. Sufficient for a good-.sized dish. Currants, Iced. Whisk the white of an e s; thoroughly until fii-m, then mix it with three dessert-spoonfuls of cold water. Dip into this, exceedingly fine bunches of ripe red ,and white currants, one bunch at a time. Let them drain for a minute, then roll them CUB (175) CUR in finely-pounded white sugar, and lay them carefully on sheets of paper to di-y. The sugar ?svill crystallise on the currants, and will have a very good ett'ect. A pretty dish may be made by icing in this way different coloured fruits suitable for dessert, and arranging them tastefully on a dish. Tunc, four or live hours to crystallise. Currants, To Bottle, for Tarts in Winter. Ascertain that the fruit has been gathered when it was quite dry or it will not keep. Pick it and put it into clean, widemouthed, di-y bottles. A few strawberries or rasi bernes may be added or not. Cover the fruit with water. Soak some bladder in water, tie a little iinnly over the top of each bottle, and wrap a little hay round the bottles ; then put them into a pan of cold water, and let them stand upright without touching one another; the Avater should reach nearly t& the necks of the bottles. Put the pan on the fire, and when the water is on the point of boiling, draw it to one side, and let it remain for half an hour. The bottles should not be taken out of the water until it is nearly cold. Tie strong paper over each bottle, and keep them in a bottle-rack in a cool, dry place, with the necks downwards. The fruit will keep good for years. The water must not boil. Shake the fruit well down, or the bottles will not be more than half full. Currants, To Clean. The best way to clean dried currants is to rub a handful of tlour into them; then put them into a colander, shake it well to get rid of the stalks, and afterwards pour over the cuiTants a little cold water. Press the cun-ants in a soft cloth and lay them on a dish, look them carefully over to see that no small stones are amongst them, put them on the hearth at a little distance from the fire, and let them gradually dry. If placed too near, so as to dry very quickly, thev wiU be liard. Currants, to Keep, for Tarts. Gather Vae fruit when it is quite dry and not over-ripe, pick it from the sUilks, and put it into a large dry earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound of moist .sugar 'to each pound of fruit. Put it in a good oven and bake it for twenty minutes. Warm .some preserving jars, be sure that they are quite dry, and fill them with the fruit. Tie a bladder over them immediately and store them in a dry place. They will keep good through the winter if they are not opened, but they require to be used when the cover has once been removed. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Curry. This favourite dish, especially a favourite with those who have resided in India, is often rendered unpalatable by the same curry -seasoning being used for every dish, however differently may be the viands of which it is cornloosed. It nmst be evident that the same riavouring will not be suitable for a curry of chicken, of fish, or of calf's head. The seasoning should always be adapted to the character of the meat, and, if it can bo ascertained, to the ta.stc of those who have to eat it. The first thing to be attended to is to have good stock, secondly, suitable seasoning, and thirdly, plenty of jn-operly prepared rice, for the rest of the dish is only intended to serve as a sort of relish to this most important part of it. The meat, whether cooked or otherwise, should be cut into small convenient-sized pieces, and fried in hot butter until lightly browned, with sliced onions and mushrooms, or mushroom powder. A little good stock should then be added, which, after simmering a little while, should be thickened with curry powder, curry paste, and, if liked, a little ground rice. The boiled rice should be piled roimd the dish. Though fresh meat is always to be preferred as being more juicy, yet cold meat is excellent warmed up as a curry ; and it should be remembered that it does not require so much stewing as fresh. When other proportions are not given, a teaspoonful of cui-ry powder, a tea-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground rice, and a breakfast-cupful of gravy may bo allowed for every pound of meat. The addition of a sour apple, or a little grated cocoa-nut, or tomatoes, or cucumbers, or green gooseberries (seeded), or spinage, will greatly improve various curries. It must be remembered that the vegetables are to be stewed in the gravy until they have imparted their flavour to it, then passed through a sieve, and returned to the curry. Curry, Calcutta. Cut up a young chicken, either coolced or raw, into convenientsized pieces. If home-made curry powder is preferred it may be made by pounding together ' and mixing thoroughly a table-spoonful of I coriander seed, a table-spoonful of poppy seed, ; a siilt-spoonful of turmeric, half a salt-spoonful ! of red chilli, half a salt-spoonful of cumin seed, I half a salt-spoonful of ground ginger, and a ; salt-spoonful of salt. Oienerally speaking, how? ever, excellent curry paste and powder may be '' purchased of respectable dealers for as little as i the ingredients would cost. Mix this smoothly ' with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fry ; two sliced onions in it till lightly browned. j Then fry the chicken. Add the milk of a cocoa-nut, and sinuner all gently together for a quarter of an horn-. Stir in the juice of a small lemon, and serve with rice. Time, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Curry Gravy. Make a powder by mixing together two table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a salt-spoonful of pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs dried [ and powdered. Cut two pounds of voal into pieces about an inch and a half square and half I an inch thick. Dip them in hot butter, then I in the powder, and fry them in butter till lightly i bro\vned on both sides. Mix a quarter of a I pound of butter very smoothly with a dessert j sjDoonful of curiy powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and one leaf of noint dried and powdered. Fry in this two large onions cut in I slices. 'When tender press the pulps through a sieve, return it to the saucepan, and add the veal and a breakfast-cupful of good stock. j Simmer gently for forty minutes. Just before I serving, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. t When the flavour is liked, a quarter of a clove ! of garlic may be stewed with the meat. Pro I bable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five I persons. CUR (176) CUB Curry, Kebobbed. Kebobbed or ftibbubed cui-ry very much resembles any other, :he difference being that half the meat consists of pork, either fresh or pickled, and that the pieces are run through with small skewers about four- inches long, before being cooked, and by means of them are fastened to the jack and basted well during cooking. They are tirst dusted with curry powder. The sauce is made by frying mitil tender a small acid apple, a clove of garlic, and two small onions, then pressing them through a sieve, and mixing with them a table-spoonful of cui-ry powder, half a tea- spoonful of salt, and the same of pejaper. The paste should be mixed smoothly with a cupful of gravy, and simmered gently with the meat until tender. A bay-leaf may be stewed with the gravy. The juice of a lemon should be added before serving. Simmer for half an hour-. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ctirry Liquid, Essence of. Put three ounces of powder [see Curry Powder) into a quart of strong vinegar. Let it remain for a fortnight, then strain off the clear liquid, and put into bottles for use. Cork closely. Probable cost, Is. A dessert-spoonful will flavour half a pint of sauce or gravy. Curry, Madras. Slice one large or two small onions, and fry them in three oimces of butter till they are lightly browned. !Mix a dessert-spoonful of cui-ry powder, a dessertspoonful of curry paste, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice smoothly with the butter, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, and a breakfast-cupful of good gravy. Cut about one pound of meat, either fowl, rabbit, veal, or beef, into convenient-sized pieces, about one inch and a half square. Put these in with the gravy, and simmer gently for forty minutes. Remember to stir it every few minutes. A little i-asped cocoa-nut, or the strained juice of a lemon, or an acid apple, is an improvement to the curry, which should be served with a border of lice round the dish. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for foui- persons. Curry, Malay. Take two ounces of blanched abnonds. Fry them in three ounces of butter till they are lightly browned, but do not let them barn. Drain, and pound them to a smooth paste with the rind of a small lemon, and a sliced onion. Cut a young chicken into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter. Drain them. Mix a table- spoonful of curry powder, and a heaped salt-spoonful of salt, very smoothly with the butter. Add gradually a cupful of gravy, put in the chicken and paste, and simmer for half an houi", then add a cupful of cream. Let the ciu'ry nearly boil, and just before serving squeeze the juice of a small lemon into it. Time, altogether, one hour. Probable cost, -ts. Sufficient for fouror five persons. Curry of Vegetables. A palatable dish may be made by cuiTj'ing green vegetables such as cabbages, cauhflowers, green peas, beans, vegetable-marrow, spinach, or sorrel. They may be cooked separately, or one or two kinds together. Cut them into small shreds. P'ry them in hot butter, wliich has been mixed with a liberal allowance of curry powder, and a little salt, and when lightly browned cover them with cream, new milk, or good gravy. A sliced onion may be added, or not, according to taste. Let them simmer till sufficiently cooked. Just before serving, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and send rice to table with them. Time (depends upon the nature of the vegetables), not very long after they are fried. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. for a moderate-sized dish. Curry Pimento. Cut a fowl into joints. Mix a table-spoonful of curry powder with half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a pinch of salt. Rub this Avell into the pieces of fowl, and stew them gently in a breakfast-cupful of good nicely-tiavoured stock. Let them simmer gently for half an hour, and before serving squeeze in the juice of a small lemon. Serve on a hot dish with half a pound of rice boiled, and piled round. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for tluee or foui- persons. Probable cost, iis. Curry Powder. CiuTy powder consists of turmeiic, black pepper, coriander seeds, cayenne, fenugreek, cardamoms, cumin, ginger, allspice, and cloves ; but the three latter arc often omitted. The seeds should be ground in a mill, and mixed with the powder, and when made it should be kept in a bottle closely stopped. A spoonful of cocoa-nut kernel, drieil and pounded, gives a delicious flavour to a curry, as does also acid apple. A recipe for making cuny powder has already been given (see Curry, Calcutta), and we give another in the following paragraph, but we think it will be found quite as satisfactory and economical to purchase curry powder of a first-class dealer as to make it at home. Curry Powder (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). Put six ounces of coriander seed, five ounces of turmeric, two ounces each of black pepper, and mustard seed, half an ounce of cumin seed, half an ounce of cinnamon, and one ounce of lesser cardamoms, into a cool oven for a night. Pound them thoroughly in a marble mortar, and rub them through a sieve. Keep the powder in a well-corked bottle. Probable cost, '6a. Sufficient, one table-spoonful of curry powder to a pound of meat, and a cupful of gravy. Curry Sauce. To make curry sauce quickly, mix a dessert-spoonful of cuny paste or powder smoothly with half a pint of nielted butter. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient for a small dish of curry. Probable cost, 4d. Curry, To Boil Rice for. Patna rice is the correct rice to use for curries, but it is not of so good a quality as Carolina, and, besides, it cannot always be obtained. The thing to be attended to is to have each grain of rice distinct and unbroken, and at the same time quite tender. This can be attained quite as easily with Carolina, as with Patna rice, but the former will require boiUng a few minutes longer than the latter. Wash the rice in several waters. Pick out every discoloured and unhusked grain, and boil it in plenty of cold water. This is the secret of having the rice whole. The water will keep cus ( 177) CUS the grains separate. Leave the saucepan uncovered. Bring the water slowly to a boil. Shake the pan occasionally to prevent burning, but do not stii- tlie rice at all. When it has simmered gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes it will most likely be tender. Patna rice will not require so long. Drain it in a colander, and Ic't it dry gently before the fire. Serve it round the curry. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. SufKcient, half a pound of rice for a moderate-sized dish of curry. Custard. It should be remembered that custard must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added to the milk. If it does it will cui-dle, and be lumpy. The best way is to put it into a jug, and place this jug in a large saucepan of cold water, which must be put on the lire until the custard tliiekens, stiri'ing it all the time. The yolks only of the eggs are required for custard. Tho whites may be set aside and used for other purposes. Custard (a la Peine). Sweeten, flavour, and boil a breakfast-cupful of thick cream, add a tiny pinch of salt, and stii- in the wellbeaten yolks of six eggs. Poui- the mixture into a ]ug, and set the jug in a saucepan of cold water. Stir it one way until it thickens. Just before serving flavour it with four tablespoonfuls of maraschino and sweeten it to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to thicken. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the maraschino. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of custard. Custard Baked in a Crust. Line a pie-dish with a good crust, and put it in the oven vmtil it is three-parts cooked. Make a custard as in the last recipe, using milk instead of cream, but do not put quite so large a proportion of milk, to insure its being quite stiff. Bake it gently, and when the custard is set it is done enough. Keep it in a cool place. Turn out before serving. Time, three-quarters of an houi-. Probable cost, Is., for a moderatesized dish, large enough for four or live persons. Custard, Boiled. Simmer in a welllined saucepan a pint each of milk and cream, with a laurel-leaf, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Strain the liquid for half an hour, and put it on again with three ounce,5 of sugar. Beat well the yolks of six eggs, and add them gradually to the milk, stirring it carefully and steadily until it thickens. It must not boil, or it VN ill curdle. Pour it into a large jug, and add a glass of brandy, still stirring it imtil it has cooled a little. Fill cups and serve. Probable cost, 2s. 4d., without brandy. Custard, Boiled (cheap). Simmer three pints of milk for half an hour in a well-lined saucepan, with lemon or cinnamon to flavour the liquid. Strain it and add a table-spoonful of ground rice or arrowroot smootlily mi.xcd in half a wine-glassful of cold milk. Beat up the yolks of three eggs and add them, with three ounces of sugar, to the rest. Stir the custard gently and steadily till it thickens, but do not boil it or it wiU curdle. This is a good custard for puddings. Probable cost, lid. If served in cups, sufficient for twelve. Custard, Cherry. Make a rich custard (sec Custard a la Heine). Put six or eight macaroons at the bottom of a glass dish, and over these lay a cupful of cherries which have been used for making cherry-brandy, with theii- juice, len the macaroons have absorbed tho juice, pour the custard over them, and garnish the dish with macaroons and cherries. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the cherry-brandy. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Custard, Common. Put a pint of milk into a clean saucepan, with a pieco_ of thin lemon-rind or half an inch of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer gently for a ([uarter of an hour, till it is ijleasantly flavoured. Mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot, ground rice, or flour very smoothly with three table-spoonfuls of cold milk. Add the yolk of an egg well beaten, and strain the hot milk upon them. Place it on the fire for a few minutes to thicken, stirring it all the time. A dessert-spoonful of brandy is an improvement. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a pint of custard. Custard, Excellent. Put a pint of new milk, and half a pint of good cream into a saucepan, with a bay-leaf, the thin rind of a lemon, and two table- spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Simmer the liquid gently for twenty minutes. Then strain it. and add to it gradually the well-beaten yolks of five eggs. Pour the mixture from one jug to another for a minute or two. Then place it in one of the jugs in a saucepan of warm water. Put this on the fire, and stir the custard until it thickens. Poiu- it out ; add a wine-glassful of brandy, and continue stirring until the custard is cold. Serve in glasses, and put a ratafia on the top of each custard. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. Gd. Sufficient for nearly a quart of custard. Custard, Lemon, without Milk or Cream. Put three ounces of loaf sugar, the thin rind and strained juice of two lemons, and a piiit of hot water into a basin. Let it stand for three-quarters of an hour, or until the flavour of the lemon-rind is extracted. Thoioughly beat tho yolks of four eggs. Mix them with tho water, first straining it, and put it on the fire to thicken for ten minutes. It must not boil. Servo in custard-glasses. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a pint of custard. Custard Marrow. The custard man-ow is a species of -egetable marrow, short and round, considered by many superior to ordinary marrows for delicacy of "flavour. It may bo boiled in the usual way or prepared as follows : Cut the man-ow into slices about an inch in thickness, and score them on one side about half through. Cut a slice of fat bacon into dice, and put it into a stewpan Avith a dessertspoonful of finely chopped mushrooms, the same of minced parsley, a small onion cut into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Fry these for a few minutes. Tui-n them on a hot dish. Lay on them the sliced marrow, the scored sides downwards, and pour over them a little olive-oil. Put the dish into a hot oven, and when the marrow is sufficiently baked, serve it as hot as possible. Time, about half an hour- to bake. Probable cost, Id. each. .;Ulow one fox each person. cus ( 178) CUT Custard Mould. lako a rich custard {. cc Custard a la Ecine). A\aien it has been thickened, and nearly cold, mix with it half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little hot millv. Whip it well for ten niinutcs, then pour into an oiled mould, or into live or six smaller moulds, and s?id it to table, with dissolved red currant jelly pom-ed over it. Time, twelve hours to stiifen. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Custard Pudding, Baked. Take as many eggs as will when level cover the bottom of the dish in which you intend to bake the ustard. Break each one into a separate cup before it is mixed with the rest, to insure the iuality of the eggs. Beat them a minute or two, but not too much, or the custard will be watery. Fill the dish with milk, sweeten liberally, and add a pinch of salt. Flavour with brandy, lemon, almond, vanilla, , rose-water, orange-water, or any other flavouring. Stir all together. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as the custard is set it is done enough. Time to bake about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d., for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for four or five persons. Custard Pudding, Boiled. Make a pint of custard with half a pint of milk and three eggs. Flavour and sweeten it liberally, or the pudding will be insipid. Put it into a 1) uttered basin which it will quite fill, cover it with a piece of buttered paper, and tie it in a floured cloth, then steam it until done enough. Keep moving it about in the saucepan for the first few minutes, that it may be well mixed. It must not cease boiling after it is once put in. Serve with wine sauce or a little jam. A large pudding may be made with very little more expense by adding another egg, another half-pint of milk, and a table-spoonful of flour. Time, forty minutes to steam. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 6d. Custard Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Mix a pint of milk, sweetened and flavoured, with two eggs slightly beaten. Put this into a saucepan and sth- it gently till it thickens, but it must not boil. Serve it in a tureen or a glass dish, and, just before serving, add a little sugar and a table-spoonful of brandy, and grate a little nutmeg over the top. This sauce is good with fruit tarts as well as sweet puddings. Time, about ten minutes to thicken. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pudding. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the brandy. Custard Tartlets. Line some patty pans -n-ith a good crust. ]Make a custard {sec Custard, Baked), flavoiu- it nicely, and three-parts fill the pans with the cu.stard. Bake the tartlets in a gentle oven. Take them out, let them cool, and spread a little sugar icing over them. This is made by mixing the whites of two eggs with two ounces of pounded loaf sugar. Strew a little more sugar on the top, and bake them in a gentle oven until the icing is crisp. If a richer tartlet is wanted, a little jam may be put under the custard. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake the tartlets, five or six minutes to harden the icing. Probable cost, 2d. each. Allow one for each person. . Custard and Syrup. A pretty n I. inexpensive dish for a Children's Party. Make some good custard, and mix it with a little isinglass (see Custard Mould. The custard need not be so rich as the one there given.) Oil some small cups of various sizes, fill them with the custard, and when cold and firm turn them out on a glass dish, putting the large ones in the middle and the smaller ones round them. Dissolve a Little red currant, raspberry, or gooseberry jelly with a little wine, or make a little syrup of sugar and water, flavour it with lemon, and colour it with cochineal. AYhen nearly cold, pour this over and amongst the custards. Lay round the inside of the dish a necklace of ratafias reposing on the outer edge of the syrup. Serve each child with a whole custard, a spoonful of syrup, and a couple of ratafias. Time, twelve hours to stifl:en. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a good-sized di.sli. Custard-without Eggs. Mix one large table-spoonful of groimd rice or corn flour with a httle cold milk. Flavour a pint of milk with any flavouring that may be preferred, sweeten it, and pour it boiling over the rice, stirring it all the time to prevent its getting into lumps. Eetum it to the saucepan, and boil it two or three minutes. When cold, it may be used instead of custard for fruit tarts or stewed fruit. Time, three minutes to boil. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one pint. Cutcharee Sauce, to serve with Kebobbed Meat. Wash a quarter of a jiound of split peiis, and "boil them in a quart of water until quite soft. Pour off the water, and mash the peas, and mix with them one pound of boiled rice. Mince two onions very finely. Fry the onions in an ounce and a half of butter until lightly browned, stir them with the rice and peas, season them with a dozen pounded cardamom seeds, six pounded cloves, half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, half a tea-spoonful of pe jper, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Put a quart of good veal stock into a saucepan, add the rice, peas, and onions, and stew the whole gently until the rice is quite soft. Stir in three ounces of oiled butter before ser 'ing. Time, between two and three hours to boil the peas; forty minutes to stew the rice. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cutcharee (another way). Boil one pound of rice as if for curry. WTien it is done enough, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of split peas which have been soaked and lioiled till tendeiand pressed through a sieve. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, and, when hot, fry two large sliced onions in it. Mix these with the rice and peas, and add a good seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and black pepper, with sufficient stock to moisten the whole, and stir the mixture over the fire till it is heate l throughout. Serve it as hot as possible, with a little butter sauce. Time, throe-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, IGd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cutlet Bat. A cutlet bat is used to flatten cutlets so that they ean be evenly and smoothly CUT ( 179 ) CUT covered with egg and bread-crumbs or frying batter. ' The cutlets should be trimmed evenly, CUTLET BAT. and then struck sharply on both sides with the flat side of the bat, when they will be ready for the batter. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. each. Cutlets (a ritalienne). Cut two pounds of the fillet of veal in slices about three-quarters of an inch thick. Shape them into round cutlets three inches in diameter, flour them well, and fry them in hot butter until done enough. When they are browned the pan should be held high above the fire, and covered so that the cutlets may become sufficiently cooked without being dry. Serve them on macaroni, which has been stewed until tender, and send brown gravy to table in a tureen. The gravy should be well flavoured with fresh tomatoes, when seasonable. At other times tomato sauce may be used. Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the cutlets. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cutlets (a la Maintenon). Cutlets were, it is said, first served in this way under the direction of Madame de Maintenon, to tempt the failing appetite of Louis XIV. According to the original recipe they should be di-essed en papiUotc, but as this is a difficult operation, and the paper is almost sure to look untidy and greasy, it woidd be better for ordinary purposes to make a little writing-paper hot, and wrap the cutlet in it after it is broiled. Cut and trim some cutlets. Shape them neatly, and flatten them, then dip each one in beaten egg, and afterwards in bread-crumbs mixed with chopped parsley, savoury herbs, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Melt some butter in a frying-pan, broil them quickly in it, turn them that they may be equally cooked throughout, and just before serving twist some hot writing paper round each. Send stewed mushrooms to tiible with them, or a puree of soiTel, spinach, or green peas, in the middle. Time, eight minutes to fry the cutlets. Allow one for each. Probable cost. Is. Cutlets (a la Venitienne). Cliop .separately half a pint of mushrooms, two shallots, a little parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Mix them thoroughly and stew them for ten minutes over a small fire in a little butter, with a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over two pounds of veal cutlets, put them into the saucepan, and cook them gently till quite tender. Add a large spoonful of sauce tournee. Draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute or two, then thicken the sauce with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs mixed with a little cream. The sauce must net boil after the eggs are added. Before serving, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Time, one hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cutlets (au Jambon), Cutlets au jambon are cooked in the same way as Cutlets a la Chingara {see Cutlets, Veal, a la Chingara), with the exception of ham being substituted for the tongue. Cutlets of Lobster or Crab. Minco verj- finely and pound in a moitar the flesh of a good-sized lobster or a crab, and season it -with salt and cayenne, whilst it is being pounded. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and dredge very slowly into it two table-spoonfuls of flour ; let it remain over the fire till lightly browned, but do not let it bum. Add this butter to the pounded fish, together with half a pint of good stock. Stir the mixture over the fire till it is quite hot, then take it out in a table-spoon, and lay it on a large dish. A\Tion quite cold, make it up in the shape of mutton cutlets, brush these over witli beaten egg, strew finely-grated bread-crumbs over them, and fiy them in boiling lard or drippingtill lightly browned. Stick a little bit of claw into each cutlet, and garnish the dish with parsley. If oysters are used, a bit of stick may be used instead of the claw. Time to fry, two or tlu-ee minutes. Probable cost, one large lobster, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a large dish. Cutlets, Lamb (a la Dauphine). Cut two pounds of cutlets from the best end of the neck, shape them neatly, trim oft' the fat and skin, and leave about an inch of bone bare. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan. Let it get quite hot, then fry the cutlets in it for a few minutes, but do not let the butter brown. Drain them, and let the butter cool ; mix with it the yolks of three eggs. Pass the cutlets through it until they are thickly covered. Strew bread-crumbs over them, and fry them once more. Dish them in a circle, with a puree of green peas in the middle of the dish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cutlets, Sauce for. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, place it over a slow fire, and mix very gradually with it an ounce of tine flour. Let it brown slightly, then add enough boiling water to make it as thick as cream, season with salt and cayenne, and vaiy the flavour by the addition of finely-chopped, gherkins, mushroom or walnut pickle, fresh tomatoes, or tomato sauce, a minced shallot, and a glass of red wine, &c. &c. Time, a few minutes. Sufficient, a quarter of a pint of sauce for one pound of cutlets. Cutlets, Veal (a la Chingara). Take two pounds of the best part of a fillet of veal. Cut it in slices about three-quarters of an inch thick, and shape these neatly in roimds the size of the top of a tea-cup. Have a piece of cold boiled tongue for each cutlet, .ns nearly as possible the same size and shape. Pat the trimmings of the cutlets, a little p'cce of rasped ham, a canot, a large onion, a bunch of savourj' herbs, and a sjirig of parsley, into a saucepan with a pint of good veal stock. Let them simmer gently for an hour or more. Strain the liquid, and put it on one side for use. Flour the cutlets, and fry them in hot butter till they are sufficiently cooked, but not CYG (180,) DAM dried ; plenty of butter or lard should be used, and when they are brown on both sides they should be held high above the lire for a few minutes, and covered. By this means they will be done through. Drain them from the fat, and keep them hot. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan, di-edge over it very gradually one ounce of flour, and keep stirring till it browns, but it must not bm-n. Mix with it the strained gravy, and any trimmings there may be of the tongue, finely minced. Warm the round pieces of tongue in this, and put one on each veal cutlet. Serve the cutlets in a circular form, add salt and pepper to the sauce, if necessary, and put it in the middle. Serve as Jiot as possible. Time, about a quarter of an hoiu" to fry the cutlets. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Cygnet, To Hoast. Truss this bird in the same way as a goose. Make a stuffing of three pounds of beef, fat and lean together, chop it small with three boiled onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, a table-spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and a whole nutmeg grated. Pound it smoothly in a mortar, stuff the cygnet, and sew it up securely, to prevent the grav}?escaping. It is generally cooked in the same way as haunch of venison, with a thick crust over it, but this is unnecessary. The gravy may be kept by covering it with paper from the outset, heating it gradually through, basting it patiently and thoroughly, and when it is nearly finished removing the paper, and bringing it near the fire to brown. Send it to table with a sauce made of equal quantities of strong beef gravy and port wine. Red currant jelly, hot and cold, should also be served with it. Cygnets should be roasted at or before Christmas, after which time they decidedly deteriorate in quality. They make a very handsome and delicious dish. Time to roast, from two to three hoiu's. Probable cost, uncertain, the birds not being often offered for sale. Sufficient for eight or nine persons Dabs The dab is a small but excellent THE DAB. fish, caught mostly in rivers near the sea. The Thames furnishes a particularly good kind, which when fried or dressed in a buttered paper are very delicate. They are at their best during the latter part of autumn. If soaked in salt and water before being cooked they will be much improved in flavour, and the muddy taste got rid of. Send to table with a cut lemon. Dace. This fish, like many of its class, scarcely repays the trouble of cooking. It is best fried or broiled, and when seasonable, which it is from Midsummer to nearly the end of the year, is much enjoyed by those who angle for amusement's sake. It should be served Avith a sauce made of a little lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. Dagmar Fritters. Make a batter of the consistency of cream with half a pound of flour, a little salt, and five well-beaten eggs. Beat it for some minutes and add a little milk, powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful each of grated lemon-peel and powdered cinnamon ; then beat again and throw in an ounce and a half of candied citron cut into small pieces. Put a piece of butter into a stewpan, pour in the batter as soon as it is dissolved, and cook slowly, taking care not to let it stick to the pan. "When it becomes solid and in some degree baked, take it out and place it on a dish ; put more lard or butter into the stewiwn, cut the paste into strips about a finger's length, giving it a slit at each end to make it rise, which it will do very quickly, and lay them in the boiling fat. When done, serve on a napkin, or with a layer of sifted sugar. Time, twentyminutcs. Dame Jane's Pudding. Beat the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of five with a quarter of a pound of powdex'ed loaf sugar, and melt four ounces of butter by standing the basin in hot water with half a pint of cream. When cool mix half a pint more of cream, and add by degrees four ounces of fine flour and the beaten eggs. Beat all well together, and bake in buttered cups. A few well- washed currants may be laid in the bottoms of the cups if desired. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Siifficient for ten or twelve puddings. Damkorf Pudding. Stick raisins inside a mould or basin, making any pattern -R-ith them that fancy may dictate (the basin must be thoroughly well buttered and then floured, or the raisins will not adhere). Sprinkle finelyprepared crumbs from a French roll over the raisins, and then place thinly sliced citron uniformly with the fruit. Pour a glass of brandy slowly over all, and another of sherry ;' do this DAM U i ' ' DAM gently chat the aiTangoment of fruit, &c., may not be disturbed. Add four well-beaten eggs and a pint of milk sweetened to taste, and let the basin remain unmoved for an hour, then tie down securely with a cloth and boil one hour. Probable cost, without si irits or wine, Is. Sufficient for tlnce or four persons. Damson Cheese. Put some sound, freshly-gathered damsons into an earthenware jar, cover it closely, and place it in a pan of cold water on the iire. Let it boil, and keep adding the Avatcr as it wastes away until the fruit is quite tender. Then, whilst they are still wai-m, remove the damsons, skin and stone them, and press them through a coarse sieve into the juice in the jar. Put half a pound of loaf sugar, broken into small pieces, to every poimd of pulp, and boil all together quickly to a stiff paste. A few of the kernels may be blanched and loft in, and these will much improve the flavour. The sugared fruit should be boiled until it sticks to the spoon in a mass, and leaves the pan quite dry; and if, when lightly touched, it leaves the fingers, you may know that it will keep well. Put it quickly into plates or shallow moulds ; lay brandied or oiled papers over it, and cover the jars closely. Keep in a dry place. Before being served, it may be cut into shapes. Damson cheese is usually served at dessert. Time, two or three hours to draw out the juice; about two hours to boil ths sugar and fruit together. Probable cost, 9d. or lOd. a four ounce jar. Sufficient, one pound of damsons for a small jar. Damson Cheese (another way). Select ripe, sound fruit. Put the damsons into a large stone jar, and allow a quarter of a pound of sugar to every quart of fruit. Set the jar up to its neck in a vessel of boiling water, or place it in a very cool oven till the fruit is tender ; then remove the stones with a fork, and boil all together in a preserving-pan till it is a thick pixlp. Add half a pound of pounded loaf sugar to each pound of fruit, and boil it again until it leaves the pan quite dry, and is a thick mass. Be careful to stir always or it will burn. Put it into moulds with a brandied paper over the top. Tie down, and store in a dry place. Time, two hours and a half to boil. Probable cost, 8d. to lOd. per small pot. Sufficient, one pint for a very small pot. Damson Cheese (another way). Place the fruit unskinned in a stone jar in a saucepan of water. Set the pan over the fire, and allow it to boil until the fruit ajjpears dry; take out the stones, poui- off some of the liquid, and to every two pounds of fruit add half a pound of sugar; stir it well, and allow it to simmer slowly for two hours, after which, boil it quickly for half an hour. The jam may then be poured into pots, and covered so as totally to exclude the air. Damson Drops. Pick the stalks from some damsons, wipe them and put them into a moderately-heated oven to bake, but do not let them bm-st. When sufficiently done take off the slcin and remove the stone ; add some crushed lump sugar to the pulp, and mix until it is a stiff paste. Drop the mixture upon paper in small quantities of uniform size, and put them into a moderately-heated oven to dry. When sufficiently dry, take them out and turn them down over a sieve, when, by damping the paper, the drops will fall on the sieve, and must be again hardened in a cool oven. Store them in a box with paper between each layer. They will keep a long time in this way if the air be excluded from them. Damson Jam (Bullacc or Common Plum). All fruits to be i5rescrved should bo gathered after two successive dry days, if possible. Get damsons quite ripe and freshly gathered ; boil them forty minutes without sugar, then simmer and skim fifteen minutes with three-quarters of a pound of good sugar to each poimd of damsons. Common sugar is thought by some persons to be good enough for dark-colom-ed preserves, but they are not the most economical, as will be shown by the quantity of scum which rises to the surface. Put into pots and cover with egged paper, which readily sticks to the pots and excludes the air. A paper dipped in brandy may be laid on the top of the jam, but it is not necessary. Store in a dry place. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound pot. Damson Jam (another way). The broken damsons, of Avhich there must always be a quantity in a large gathering, will make an excellent jam (reject poor ones). Put six pounds of damsons without stones, or the stones may be removed after, into a preserving-pan with one pint of water, boil till the pulp may be rubbed through a sieve, and to every pound of pulp allow one pound of sugar. The sugar must first be boiled to a syrup, and then added to the pulp. Stir the jam, and, when sufficiently boiled, test it on a plate, and store in a dry place with brandied or oiled paper, and an outside covering of tissue-paper egged down. Allow one hour for boiling. Damson Jelly. Take the required quantity of fine ripe damsons and one-third of the quantity of bullaces. Separate the stalks from the fruit, put them into a large stone jar, first cutting them with a knife as they are jjut in. Tie clown with paper, and place the jar in a moderate oven over night. When the juice is poured oft', strain, -neigh, and boil it quickly for twenty-five minutes without sugar ; then add ten ounces of sugar to each pound of juice, and boil and skim carefully ten minutes longer. During the whole time of boiling the jelly should bo stirred. Damson Pudding. Shred up very finely four ounces of good beef suet, and rub it well into half a pound of floiu-. Use as much water as will make- a smooth firm paste, then line a well-buttered basin, and cut a cover for the top. Fill with the damsons, and sweeten to taste. Tie a fioured cloth firmly over the top, and boil steadily two and a half to three hours. A mixture of apples and damsons do well together. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Damson, Solid. Skin, core, and quarter one pound and a quarter of good boiling ajiples, put them into a preserving-pan with ono pound of damson juice (extracted from the fruit by DAM ( 182 ) DAN placing them in a cool oven at night, or setting them in a jar in hot water), boil them both together for half an hour, then add tlxree-quarters of a pound of good pounded sugar, and after the sugar has dissolved boil for another ten minutes. If the apples are good, and the recipe carefully attended to, small moulds of this solid fruit will help to fill up successfully many vacancies on a supper-table. Damson Tart. Line the edges of a tartdish with a crust, puff or short, according to liking, and pile the dish high with damsons, laying a small cup in the bottom to prevent the juice running over ; one pint and a half of damsons will require a quarter of a pound of fine moist sugar, and it should be equally placed amongst the fruit in the dish. If a short crust be made, send the dish to table with sifted sugar over the toj), but if a puff one, lay on with a brush ten minutes before serving, a mixture of beaten egg and sugar, and finish baking. Time, half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Damson. Wine. Get sound ripe fruit, reject all that is stale and mouldy ; pick off the stalks, and to four gallons of damsons add four gallons of boiling water. Let them soak four or five days, stirring them regularly every day with the hand. Add to every gallon of liquor three and a half pounds of good lump sugar, and when this is quite dissolved, put the whole into a cask with one quart of -spirits to every tha-ee gallons. Put it into a cask and let it remain twelve months, when it may be bottled for use. Damsons Baked for Keeping. Fill some large stone jars with not over-ripe damsons none of them must be crushed and add to them half their weight in pounded sugar. Put the fruit and sugar in layers into the jars. Let the oven get cool, and place the jars, well covered over the top with small flat slate stones, into it. When they have baked from five to six hours they will be done, and should be removed at once to get cold. The top should be first covered with a round of white paper, then melted mutton suet to about one inch in thickness, and lastly, a piece of brown paper or bladder so secured as to exclude the air. If kept in a dry, well-ventilated room, damsons so prepared will keep good for three months. Damsons, Bottled. Bullaces or damsons are valuable for winter use, and, bottled like green gooseberries, make good tarts. Put them into wide-necked glass bottles, tie the tops over with bladder, and set them in a boiler of cold water ,with a little straw at the bottom. Bring the water to the boil, and then remove the boiler from the fire, but let the bottles remain to become cold. In a few hours, or better, the next day, remove the bladder, and replace it by tight-fitting corks, first filling the bottles with pounded sugar. The corks should be secured with wax. Damson, Compote of. Make a pint of syrup in the following manner : Take one pound of loaf sugar and one pint of water ; let it simmer on the fire until the sugar has melted, then thi'ow in the white of an egg, and take oil the scum as it rises. When the sjTup has boiled fifteen minutes, drop into it, one by one, a quart of sound damsons, and simmer until soft. COMPOTE OF DAMSONS. without breaking them. Remove them from the sjTup, and boil it again until rather thick, let it cool, and jpour it over the damsons which should have been previously arranged in a glass dish. A glass of whipped cream is a nice accompaniment to this dish. Time to boil, syrup, fifteen minutes; damsons, about five minutes. Probable cost, -without cream, Is. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Damsons, Compote of (another way). This compote will require less sugar, because the fruit is of a less acid nature than some of the other varieties of plums. Allow four o'rnces of sugar to half a pint of water, boil the usual time, and simmer the fruit in the syrup ten or twelve minutes. The quantity of syrup is for one pound of damsons. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to stew the damsons. Damsons, Preserved. Gather the damsons while the sun is on them, and when there has been no rain for twenty-four hours at least. They shoiild be quite ripe, whole, and without blemish. To each jar, containing one quart of fruit, allow half a pound of good loaf sugar, and sprinkle it equally . in the jar among the fruit, then set it in a vessel of cold water over a moderate fire and simmer, after it has come to a boil, fifty minutes, when the damsons will be soft, and must l)e allowed to get cold. Lose no time in completing the preserve. Untie the covers, and pour the juice into a preserving-pan, where it may boil fifteen minutes, and must then be strained over the fruit. Fasten down when cool, and store in a dry cool place. Damsons, Preserved (another way). Prick the fruit, and place it in scalding water for about a minute, lift the fruit into a di-y dish, and strew powdered sugar over it. Next day pour ofl: the syrup, boil and skim it, pour it again over the fruit, and allow it to stand for a day or two. Boil the syrup once more, add it again to the fruit, and boil both together for a short time, taking care not to break the damsons. "WTien ready, pour into jars, and when cold, add brandied papers, and close carefully. Half a pound of sugar is sufficient for each pound of fruit. Dandelion, Stewed. The first mention of tliis dish would perhaps inspire most English people with aversion, but we can honestly advise them to try it. It is an inexpensive dish, and easily obtained ; for fresh growths after DAN ( 183) DEP showery weather may be had throughout summer and winter. Uathor an equal quantity of fresh dandelion and sorrel leaves. Pick off all the withered tips and hard parts of the roots ; shred them into tine strips, and wash them free from grit. Put the dandelion by itself into a copper stewpan, cover it with a small quantity of boihng water, and stew until nearly tender ; add the soirel, and simmer until the water has evaporated and the whole is soft. Mash with a wooden spoon ; stir in a lump of butter ; flavour with pepper and salt, and ser\e like spinach. The dish may be garnished in a variety of ways, either with liard-boiled eggs, sippets of fried bread, or slices of boiled carrot cut into shapes. It is usually served with white meats, as veal, sweetbreads, kc. ; but it is excellent as a garnish for poached eggs. Some persons cook this vegetable without sorrel, but to our taste it is too bitter, and wants toning down. It is impossible to fix a price for the plant, as it is not a market article. It will, in aU probability, be more often found on the tables of the rich than of the poor, not from its cost, but from its peculiar taste and flavour. Dandelion Wine. Get four quarts of the yellow petals of the dandelion, and pour over them into a tub one gallon of warm water that has previously been boiled. Stir it well roimd, and cover with a blanket, to stand thieo days, during which time it should be stirred frequently. Strain ofl: the flowers from the liquid, and boil it for half an hour, with the rind of a lemon, the rind of an orange, a little ginger, and three and a half pounds of lump sugar to each gallon ; add the sugar and lemon, from which the rinds were removed, in slices to the boiling liquor, and when cool ferment with yeast on a toast. When it has stood a day or two put it into a cask, and in two months bottle. This wine is said to be specially adapted to all persons suffering from liver complaints, Darioles. Butter the dariole moulds and line them with a thin paste made as follows : ? Beat half a pound of butter to a cream ; stir into it very gradually one pound of flour, with which three ounces of fine sugar has been mixed, and the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs, beaten separately. "VMien the moulds are lined, have ready a custard to fill them, composed of DAEIOLE MOULDS. the foUoAving ingredients: Eight well-beaten oggs, without the whites, six cru.shed macaroons, two ounces of sugar, half a pint of cream, and half the gi-ated rind of a small lemon. \Tien these have been stin-ed over the fire for a quarter of an hour, and the custard has become cold, the darioles may be filled and baked. They wdll take fifteen minutes in a quick oven ; should be risen like a souffle, and served at once with sugar stre\vn over or they will fall. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient to fill twelve moulds. Darioles (a la Duchesso). Proceed as before dii-ected. This recipe differs in allowing more time for baking, and requiring no boiling of custard, ilix half a pint of miilc with two ounces of flour, three ounces of pounded sugar, six well-beaten eggs, and two ounces of butter into a batter, and put it at once into the moulds, first adding a little essence of vanilla, drop by di'op, until the mixture is flavoured. The essence of lemon, almonds, or cinnamon may be substituted for vanilla. The moulds should be only tln-ee-parts filled, and from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes allowed for baking. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for seven moulds. Dartmouth Pie. Mince two pounds of mutton, from which all the fat has been cut away, and add to it one pound of finely-slued beef suet, one pound of well-washed currants, four ounces of sugar, and a little salt and nutmeg. Make a paste by boiling two ounces of butter with four ounces of beef suet, and working it into eight omices of flour. Cover the mixture with this paste, and bake for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Suflicient for seven or eight persons. Date Cake (for Dessert). Insert in place of the stones, which should be carefully removed, blanched abnonds. Line a square tin with rice-paper ; fill in layers of dates, and press down with a weight. Tmn out on a glass dish. Garnish with slices of orange. Prolaable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Delaville Pudding. Take of candied peel, oiange, citron, and lemon each one ounce, slice them very finely, and cover the bottom of a dish which should be lined with a rich puff paste. Put six ounces of good butter into a clean saucepan, and beat into it the same quantity of finely-sifted sugar, stir it over a slow fire, adding gradually the yolks of four wellbeaten eggs. "VNQien ready to boil, pour the mixture into the pie-dish over the candied peel, and bake slowly. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Delaware Pudding. Make a good suet crust in the iiroportion of one pound of flour to half a pound of suet. Prepare four large apples, take out the cores, and divide them into slices; put these into a lined saucepan with two large table-spoonfuls of sugar, a tea-spoonful of minced lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg. "When slightly pulped, roll out the paste thin, cover it to within an inch of the margin with the apples, and strew the currants on it, then roll up the pudding in a floured cloth, securing the ends properly, and boil for about two hours. Probable cost. Is. Suflicient for four or five persons. Deptford Pudding. Beat the yolks of five eggs and tlio whites of three in separate Ijasins. " Put a quart of new milk into a welllined .saucepan, and stii" into it, as soon as it boils, six ounces of bread-crumbs, and the rind of a Ic'.non grated'. Sweeten to -taste, and add to it six ounces of melted butter and the cg DES ( 184) DEV mixture, yolks and whites. Have ready a picdish, lino it with piiff j)aste, and put some marmahide at the bottom. Bake in a moderate oven. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d., without marmalade. Sufficient for eight persons. Derwentwater Cakes. Divide four eggs, beat up tlio yolks and whisk the whites to a froth. Eub half a pound of good fresh butter into one pound of flour, add half a pound of well- washed currants, and the same quantity of powdered sugar. Mix the flour with the eggs to a stift' paste. Roll and cut into small round cakes. 13ake in a slow oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Suiiicient for one dozen or more cakes. Dessert Biscuits. \'hip half a poimd of good fresh butter to a cream. If the weather be cold, place it beside the fire before commencing operations, but it should not oil. "N Tien beaten to a cream add the flour and sugar slowly and gradually, then the flavouring of lemon, ratafia, cinnamon, &c., and lastly, mix all together with the beaten yolks of half a dozen eggs. Butter a paper and lay it over a cake tin, drop some of the mixture on it at equal distances, so separating the biscuits that they may have space to S2)rcad, which they will do as soon as they get warm. See that the oven is not too hot, and that they do not get highly coloured. Time, twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Dessert Cakes. Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, and add to it gradually an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, and the same of groiind rice, and as much baking j owder as would cover a sixpence. Mix thoroughly, tlien stir in three well-beaten eggs. Pour into well-oiled tins, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, ten minutes. Sufficient for one dozen cakes. Probable cost, 8d. Dessert Ice Currants. To the beaten whites of two cg + add a quarter of a pint of clear spring water, and mix them thoroughly toge- ther. Select some fine bunches of ciu-rants, red and white. Immerse each bunch separately in the mixture, and let them drip a minute, then roll them carefuU) in a quantity of finelysifted sugar ; let the rolling be repeated. Lay them with a space between each bunch on paper to dry and become crystallised. Devil, Dry. Score the drumstick, gizzard, or any other part of turkey, fowl, veal, or mutton kidney. Rub the meat to bo devilled with pepper and salt, put a thick coating of made mustard over this, with as much cayenne as liked. Broil over a clear fire. Devil Gravy. Take three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and the same of good gravy ; add to it a dessert-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded loaf sugar, a glass of ketchup, and the same of white wine, with the juice of a iemon. Make all waiin together, then pour it over the devilled turlcey, goose, or fowl. Devil, Wet. Score the leg of a roasted turkey, and fill up the cuts with a seasoning of mustard, pepper, and salt ; then broil over a clear fire, and pom- the following sauce, made hot, over it when sent to table. To three tablespoonfuls of gravy and one of melted butter, add a tea-spoonful each of Harvey's sauce, mushroom ketchup. Chilli vinegar, and mustard, a large wine-glassful of port, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little cayenne and black pepper. More seasoning may be added, but this -svill be best regulated by the taste of the consimier. Devilled Biscuit. Make a seasoning of cayenne, anchovy paste, salt, and curry powder ; butter some captain's biscuits, lay the mixture over and grill, or make a paste of cheese, mustard, and salt, and spread over when toasted. Butter unsparingly. Time, from five to ten minutes. Probable cost, Id. per biscuit. Devizes Pie. Take thin slices from a calf's head when cold, and some of the brains, pieces of cold lamb, pickled tongue, a few slices of bacon, and some hard-boiled eggs cut neatly into rings ; with these fill a pic-dish. Season with pepper, salt, cayenne, and spice ; an-ange the meat in layers ; see that all is well-seasoned, and fill up the dish with a rich gravy. Bake in a slow oven, with a cover of flour and water paste, and remove when cold. The pie must then be turned out on a dish. Garnish with parsley and pickled eggs sliced. Time to bake, one hour. Devon Cakes. Rub half a pound of good fresh butter into one pound of flour, beat up an egg and mix it with half a pint of milk, and sweeten the millc with a quarter of a poimd of sifted sugar. Mix the flour and milk together into a paste, and roll it out thin to be cut into any shapes liked. Bake on tin plates in a quick oven, with grated loaf sugar over for ten minutes, Probable cost for this quantitj'. Is. 4d. Devonian Pudding. Put_ a pint of milk into a saucepan, and stir into it gradually two tablc-sjDoonfuls of fine floiu- until it boils. When it thickens slightly, pour it into a basin to cool. Mix in a separate dish the whites of two eggs and the yolks of four well beaten, the rind of a small lemon grated, eight ounces of sugar, and three ounces of butter previously beaten to a cream. Blend this thoroughly with the mixture of milk and flour. Pour into a well-buttered ijie-dish, round which has been placed an edging of pufl' paste, and bake in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes. "VVTien ready, dust pounded sugar over it, and serve hot. It may also be used cold. Probable cost. Is. Devonshire Brandy Pudding. Take the remains of a C(_ild plum jiudding, cut it into long strips half an inch thick, and steep them in brandy or rum for a few minutes. Fill a buttered mould, crossing them neatly and uniformly one over the other. Prepare a custard of five eggs, a pint of milk, and a flavouring of lemon and nutmeg; pour as much of this into the mould as will quite fill it, and send the remainder to table poured over the pudding. A floured cloth must be tied over the mould, and it should be kept boiling for one hour-. Sufficient for four or five persons. DEV ( 185 ) DOR Devonshire Buns. Prepare two pounds of flour as directed in the recipe for buns, but instead of milk use Devonshire cream, which, if too thick, should be diluted with warm water or milk, care being taken that the dough ferments in the usual way. If in doubt, prepare the dough first, and add cream as you would butter, and bake as before directed. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, Id. each. Sufficient for eighteen buns. Devonshire Oake. Put four pounds of flour into an earthenware pan, and rub well into it one pound of clotted cream or butter beaten to a cream. Add three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of lemon-peel cut small, and a little nutmeg. Beat up two eggs, and add them to the mixtm-e, with a pint of milk, half a drachm of saffron steeped in boiling water, and a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. The milk should be only moderately warm ; if too hot the cake will be heavy. Mix all together, and cover till next morning, when it wiU be ready to put into tins containing about a pound and a half. Bake in a quick oven for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient to make six cakes. Devonshire Clotted Cream. The highly esteemed clotted cream of Devonshire is procured by straining the milk, as it comes fresh from the cow, into large metal pans, which are placed in a cool dairy, and kept immc red for twenty-four hours in winter and half that time in summer. It is then scalded over a charcoal fire, the time for scalding depending on the heat of the fire and the quantity of nulk to be scalded ; the slower it is done, the better and the thicker will be the cream. It is skimmed the following da)\ A great quantity of this cream is sent to the London market, where it fetches a high price. Devonshire Junket. Slix half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon with a heaped table-spoonful of pounded sugar. Pour over these a wine-glassful of brandy, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add one pint of quite new milk with a dessert-spoonful of rennet. If the milk cannot be procured fresh from the cow, heat it until it is new-milk warm. Stir it well, and let it remain until it is set, then spread some clotted cream on 'the top, and strew sifted sugar over. Time, about two hours to set the milk. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for haK a dozen persons. Devonshire Squab Pie. Take two pounds of chops from a neck of mutton. Cut them short, and pare away some of the fat. Peel, core, and slice about two pounds of wellflavoured sour apples. Put a layer of them in the bottom of a pie-dish with a little sugar, and a sprinkling of ground allspice. Place the chops next, and season -with salt, pepper, and finelychopped onion. Continue with alternate layers of apples and meat till all be used up. Make an ordinary meat crust, line the edges of the dish, and cover over the top, adding a quarter of a pint of gravy or water. Bake in a I moderate oven one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six or seven [ 13 Devonshire Syllabub. In the country where milk is to be had pure and direct from its source, syllabubs are to be seen on every table varied with the delicious far-famed Devonshire junket. The quantity of wine intended to be used for the syllabub is first put into a large China bowl with sugar to taste. It ) is then milked on till the bowl is full, and afterwards when cold, it is covered with clotted cream. A little grated nutmeg, or pounded cinnamon (or both may be used) is sprinkled over the top when sei-ved. A pint of port and one of sherry will make a large and excellent syllabub. Devonshire White - Pot. This is a very wholesome but old-fashioned preparation of nulk and flour varied . with the addition of eggs. The milk and flour are mixed to a batter, which is then put into an oven, or simply boiled, and eaten with sugar. A more modem whitepot is made as follows : Beat eight eggs, and add them to one quart of cream, flavour with sugar and nutmeg, and pour the mixture on some slices of fine bread. Tie down the dish with a paper, first placing bits of butter on the top. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour or more. Dombey Pudding. Grate off the i-ind of a lemon with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, put it, with half a pint of cream, in an enamelled saucepan. When hot, stir in six table-spoon fuls of bread-crumbs, one of flour, three of finely-chopped beef suet, and one of marrow. Stir and boil the mixture for ten minutes. Throw it out into a basin to cool. Take two oimces of currants, one of sultanas, and two ounces of stoned muscatel raisins, mince the latter with two ounces of candied orange-peel, and mix all together with four well-beaten eggs, adding gradually a wine-glassful of orangewine, one of rum, and a little nutmeg. Stir for fifteen minutes ; the pudding should then be turned into a well-oiled mould, previously decorated according to fancy with raisins, cun-ants, and peel, and either boiled quickly three hours, or baked in a moderate oven for two hours. Send to table with the following sauce poured over it : Thix-e ounces of loaf sugar, and the juice of two oranges boiled until thick, with half a wine-glassful of rum added afterwards. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight persons. Dory or Caper Sauce. Blend two ounces of butter with one table-spoonful of flour, and stir it into a saucepan containing the third part of a pint of boiling water, add equal quantities of shrimps and capers pounded, about two dessert-spoonfuls of each, and boU for some minutes ; then remove the saucepan from the fire, and stir in till dissolved an ounce more of butter, and two tea-spoonfuls of whole capers. Serve in a tm-eon. Dory, Boiled. t'ut off the fins, and lay the fish in a kettle of cold water, salted in the proportion of three ounces of salt to one gallon of water, Let the water cover the fish, bring it to a boil gradually, and simmer till done. Be careful not to break the skin. This unsightly, but very excellent fish, is a near approach to the turbot in the delicacy and firmness of the flesh. It is boiled and served in the same manner as XJOU (186) DUC turbot, with lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter. Serve on a napkin THE DOEY. neatly rolled round the edge. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes, according to size, after the water boils. Dough Nuts, American. Into a pound of ilour i-ub a piece of butter the size of an egg. Add a little pounded allspice, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Mix a table-spoonful of milk with four eggs, and a Little lukewarm mUk. \7ork all well together, and put the mixture in a warm place to rise. Then roll it out about half an inch tliick, cut into pretty shapes, and fry in boiling oil or lard until the nuts are a golden brown. Drain on a moistened sieve, strew sifted sugar over the nuts, and keep them in a dry place. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Dough Nuts, American (and Norway). Rub four ounces of butter into three pounds of fine floirr ; add one pound of sugar, a teaspeonful of powdered cinnamon, and the whole rf a nutmeg, grated. WTiisk four- eggs, and mix them gradually with a gill of yeast and as much of a pint of new milk, flavoured with rosewater, as will make the flour into a soft dough. Cover it up warm to rise, and when sufiiciently iTSen make it into balls, or into any form liked, and drop them into a saucepan of boiling lard. When of a fine bro'WTi colour they are done, and should be laid before the fire on a sieve to dry. It sometimes happens that the nuts are insufficiently cooked in the middle. To insure their being done thoroughly, drop them into the lard as soon as it boils. Time to boil, five or six minutes. Probable cost for the above ingredients, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Dover Biscuits. Beat half a pound of fresh butter into a cream, and stir into it half a pound of fine sugar. Beat two eggs to a froth ; add a table-spoonful of nutmeg. Mix the eggs and butter together, and blend with them threequarters of a pound of fine flour. Poll out the paste thin, and cut into small cakes. Time to bake, twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two dozen or more cakes. Dowlet Pie. To three pounds of roast or boiled veal, minced, add half a pound of beef suet, and, when shred very fine, three or f our well-beaten eggs, part of a small nutmeg, grated, and a little allspice. Lay some of the mixture in a pie-dish, and throw well-stoned raisins on the top ; then cover the raisins with more of the mLxture, and sprinkle raisins till half a pound has been used up. Bake in a quick oven, and when done pour into the pie some sweet sauce, orserve with wine sauce in a tureen. Time, half to three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Dresden Patties. For these patties, take off the outer crust of a stale French roll, di\'ide the crmnb into slices, and then into rounds, with a tin cutter. Make the slices sufficiently thick to allow of the middle being scooped out. Dip the croustades into milk, drain well, smear with egg, and cover with fine breadraspings, fried in butter to a pale brown colour. They are then filled with a compote of fi-uit, or they may be made savoury and filled with minced fowl, ham, and tongue, or with oysters, mushrooms, &c. Time to fry, five minutes. Dripping, Clarified. Make the drippinghot and pour it into boiling water. Stir it for three or four minutes, then leave it to get cold. The impurities will all sink to the bottom, and may be easily removed with a knife. Drippingmay be used three times for frying purposes, if it is clai"ified every time. Every little piece of fat should be molted do-svn, and the dripping clarified. It may then be used cither for frying or for household pastrj . In making pastry good beef dripping is very much to be pref erred to cheap common butter. Dripping, Potted. Take six pounds of beef dripping ; boil it in good soft water, and strain into a pan till cold ; remove it from the pan, and clear oflt the gravy that adheres to the under part ; repeat the boiling process several times, and take away the sediment. When quite clear, and free from gravy, put the dripping into a saucepan with six bay-leaves, a quarter., of an ounce of white pepper, a few cloves, and half a pound of salt. Lot it melt at a very gentle heat, and when it is hot enough to pour strain it through a sieve into the pot, and cover it over to get cold. Or it may be melted without any addition, except the salt, and, if requii-ed for pastry, this latter mode is the preferable. Dryburgh Butter Cakes. Rub well; into one pound of the best flour eight ounces of fresh butter, and make it into a paste -with half a pint of milk and a well-beaten egg, adding four ounces of powdered sugar. When the ingredients are sufficiently amalgamated, and the paste -wrought into a proper consistency, roll out thin, cut into circles, dust -with fine sugar, and bake on a buttered tin, in a quick oven, for about ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Duchess Loaves. Duchess loaves are very similar to petits chotix, but larger and differently shaped. They are made as follows : Put four ounces of sugar and two oimces of butter into a saucepan, -with a quarter of a pint of cold water. Let them boil, then draw the DUG ( 187) DUG pan to the side, and stir in four ounces o? dried and sifted flour. Put the mixture again upon the fire, and stir it briskly -with a wooden spoon for three or four minutes; then add a little lemon or orange flavouring and a well-beaten egg ; and when this is thoroughly incorporated with the other ingredients a second egg may be added, and if it is required the yolk of a third, but the eggs must be added singly and whisked thoroughly before they are put in, and care must be taken that the paste is left stiff enough not to spread when it is put upon the baking sheet. Make the paste up into small flat loaves, four inches long and one inch and a half wide, and bake these on a buttered sheet until they are lightly and evenly coloiu'ed. A few minutes before they are taken from the oven sprinkle a little powdered sugar over them, and before serving open them at the side, and introduce a little jam or maimalade. PUe them neatly on a napkin before sending them to table. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, lOd., for this quantity. Sufficient for a small dish. Duck (a la Fran aise). Lard the breast of a duck with bacon, and put it on the spit before a clear fire for twenty minutes, and then into a stewpan of gravy previously prepared in the following manner : To one pint of beef gravy add two dozen chestnuts, roasted and peeled, two onions, sliced and fried in butter, two sage-leaves, and a sprig of thyme ; pepper and salt. When the duck has stewed twenty minutes put it on a dish, add a quarter of a pint of port wine to the graA'y, a little butter and flour to thicken, pour it hot over the duck, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. IDllck (a r Italienne). Cook a.duck en braise (sec Duck, Braised, with Turnips) . Put two large table-spoonfuls of oil into a stewpan, add a bunch of parsley, some chives and mushrooms, mince them very finely and stew for ten minutes, then thicken with flour, and pour the gravy from the duck, and simmer for a few minutes longer. Skim and strain the whole, which ought to be rather thick, and send to table with the duck. Time to braise, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck (a la mode) . Take a couple of duoks, divide them into quarters, and lay them in a stewpan with a sprinkling of flour, pepper, and salt. Put a large lump of butter divided into pieces at the bottom of the stewpan, and fry the ducks until they are a nice light brown colour. Remove the frjang fat, and pour in half a pint of gra vy, and the same of port ; sprinkle more flour and add a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three shallots minced fine, an anchovj-, and a Kttle cayenne. When the ducks have been stewing in the gravy for about twenty minutes, if the stewpan has been tightly closed, they will be found done enough. Put the ducks on a dish, take out the herbs, cloai- off any fat, and serve with the sauce thrown over them. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. per couple. S-ufficient, a couple of ducks for six or seven persons. Duck Boiled. " A duck boiled is a duck spoiled," is an old proverb, but had the originator lived in the north of Wales it never would ave been uttered. There they boil ducks often and well, but they salt them first, and serve them smothered with onion sauce. Time to simmo*gently, thirty to forty minutes. Probabk. cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for four or more persons. Duck, Braised, with Green Peas. Prepare and cook as for turnips (see the following recipe), using green peas instead of carrots and onions, and fry two onions in butter till they are of a pale brown, and boil them to a thick sauce, with some of the gravy from the duck. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with the peas laid under the duck and the gravy thrown over. Time, one hour for duck ; peas, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Use one quart of peas. Duck, Braised, with Turnips. Prepare a duck as if for roasting. Line a small pan just large enough for the duck, with slices of bacon. Strew over the bottom a little parsley, chives, thyme, and lemon-peel. Lay in the duck, and add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stuck with three cloves, season with pepper, and cover with stock broth and a glass of white wine. Baste frequently, and simmer an hour, or till done. Fry some slices of turnip in butter to a light brown, drain and add them to the stewpan, after removing the duck, which should be kept hot. When the turnips are tender remove them and strain the gravy, thickening if necessary with a little flour. Put the duck on a dish, throw the hot gravy over, and garnish with the turnips. Fiy the turnips eight or ten minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck, Devilled (alaFran aisc). Divide a duck down the middle, prick the flesh all over with a skewer, and rub into it a mixture of mustard, pepper, salt, and chutney sauce, then broil or roast. Make a gravy of equal quantities of rich stock, white wine, ketchup, and lemon-pickle, quarter of a pint of each, add a little sugar, wann all together and serve hot over the duck. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to broil. Duck-Giblet Soup. Of duck giblets thi-ee or four sets will be required, as they are small, and the feet are now left attached to a duck when roasted. Scald four sets, clea,n and cut them into pieces of an inch in length. Put them into a saucepan with three quarts of water, a pound of gravy beef (or if more convenient some stock may be added after the giblets have been stewed), two onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, and the rind of a very small lemon. Simmer till the bones are loose and the gizzard soft, then strain the broth, season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and put the giblets into a tiu-een by the side of the fire. Brown some thin slices of onion in butter, and stir in some flour to thicken the soup ; pour the broth into the stewpan with the thickening, and stir for ten minutes or till it boils, tlien skim and strain into the tureen, adding one or two glasses of Madeira, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, and the DUG ( 188) DUG juice of a small lemon. Time to stew the giblets, three hoiirs. Probable cost, Is. per quart. Sufficient for ten persons. Duck, Gravy for-. Boil the giblets (omitting the liver ) in a pint of water for an hour, adding to them a small onion chopped, and salt and pepper to taste. Strain, colour with a little browning, and stir up with a teaspoonful of coratch, and the same of mushroom ketchup. Or, good stock lightly niixed with browned flour may be used instead of water for boiling the giblets : and the addition of a little red wine will increase the richness of the gravy. Duck, G-ravyfor (another way). Take the necks and gizzards of two ducks, a spoonful of port wine, half an anchovy, a blade or two of mace, a slice of the end of a lemon, an onion, and a little pepper ; add a pint of water, and boil to half a pint ; strain through a sieve on to a spoonful of browning made of bm-nt sugar, and pour o\'er the ducks. Duck, Hashed. Divide a roast duck into joints, take off the skin and lay the joints with some good gravy in a stewpan, add a little mixed spice, a glass of port, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne, skim from all fat, and when thoroughly "hot thicken with butter and flour, and strain and serve the duck on a dish, the gravy round it, and with a garnish of bread sippets ; or cut up the duck and boil the trimmings, adding sliced onion previously fried in butter to one pint of stock, half a tea-spoonful of chopped -lemon-peel, two of lemon-juice, and a half glass of port wine. Season with salt and pepper, and when it has well boiled, skim, strain, thicken, and add it to the duck. Stew, but do not boil. Serve as before with sippets of bread as a garnish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to stew. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck Pie. Previous to putting the duck into the pie-dish, boil it for about fifteen minutes, but first cut off the neck and wings, which should be stewed for a few minutes with the giblets in a stewpan containing two ounces of good butter, a bunch of herbs, an onion sliced, an anchovy, a blade of mace, some salt, pepper, and a di-achm of cayenne. When the butter has dissolved, pour in half a pint of boiling water, and stew gently for a full hour; then strain and add the mixture to the gravy from the duck. Cut up the duck neatly, and arrange it in the pie-dish, adding more seasoning if required; skim off all fat from the gravy, which should be cold, and pour it into the dish. Cover with a puff", or any crust liked. Time, one hour to bake. Sufficient for four or more persons. Duck, Roast. This universal favourite requires no praise. Without entering into the question of the best duck, we say at once, take a young farm-yard duck fattened at liberty, but cleansed by being shut up two or three days and fed on barley-meal and water. Two small young ducks make a better dish than a large, handsome, hard-fleshed drake, which, as a rule, is best fit for a stew, or to be cooked en braise {sec Duck, Braised). If the poulterer does not prepare the duck, it must be plucked, singed, and emptied ; the feet scalded, skinned, and twisted round on the back of the bird ; head, neck, and pinions cut off, the latter at the first joint, and all skewered firmly to give the breast a nice plump appearance. For the stuffing, take half a pound of onions, a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, three table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, the liver of duck parboiled and minced with pepper, salt, and cayenne. Cut the onions vcty fine, throw boiling water over them, and cover for ten minutes ; drain through a gravy strainer, and add the bread-crumbs, minced liver, sage, pe2 per and salt to taste ; mix, and put it inside the duck. This quantity is for one duck ; more onion and sage may be added, but we recommend the above as a delicate compound not likely to disagree with the stomach. Let the duck be hung a day or two, according to the weather, to make the flesh tender. Koast before a brisk clear fire, baste often, and di-edge with flour to make the bird look frothy. Serve with a good brown gravy in the dish, and apple sauce in a tureen. Time : ducks, three-quarters of an hour to an hour; ducklings, twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. each. Sufficient, two ducks for seven or eight persons. A EOAST DUCK. Duck, Roast, To Carve. A young duckling should be carved in the same way as a fowl, the leg and wing being taken off, first of all, on either side (see Fowl, Eoast, To Carve) . A full-sized bird should be carved like a goose. First cut slices from the breast, in the dii'ection indicated in the figure by the dotted lines from a to b. The first slices are to be cut close to the wing ; then proceed upwards towards the breast-bone. The legs and wings may afterwards be attacked. An opening is to made, shown by the dotted line c, to get at the stuffing. Duck, Salmi of. Take the giblets of a duck, stew them gently in veal-gra\'j' seasoned with cayenne, three finely-shred shallots, and some pepper and salt. Roast the duck, cut it up, and lay it in a stewpan with the gravy. Simmer tUl quite hot, then squeeze a bitter orange into the sauce, strain it over the duck, and send to table hot. More seasoning may be added for the English palate. Salmis are great favourites with French epicures; they are a species of moist devil, sufficiently piquant, as a rule, to please a Frenchman's taste. Time: twenty minutes to roast ; twenty minutes to stew. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suflicient for four or five persons. Duck, Stewed, with Cabbage. Roast a nice fat duck before a clear fire for about twenty minutes ; let it be well seasoned witli DUG ( 189) DUK pepper and salt before it is put on the spit. Put it into a stewjian with the gravy procured from the roasting, and enough of beef gravy to cover it; add a seasoning of sage-leaves, lemon thyme, pepper, and salt, with some sliced onion previously fried in butter. When it has stewed twenty minutes, strain the gravy, thicken Vith butter and flour, and pour it over the duck, which should have a layer of cabbage to rest on {see Cabbage, Stewed). Mashed turnips or sourki'out may be substituted for cabbage. Sufficient for four or more persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Duck, Stewed, with Green Peas. Cut off the rind from half a pound of rather lean bacon. Divide it into pieces of about two inches each way, and fry to a light brown with butter. Dredge in a little flour, and after stirring about three minutes, add a pint of broth, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper. The duck should be previously fried or roasted for ten minutes to make it a good colour, and then placed with one quart of peas in the stewpan with the gravy. In an hour and a quarter serve with the peas and bacon on the dish, the duck on the top of the peas, and the gravy thickened and strained over. Probable cost, 4s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five i)ersons. Duck, Stuflfed. Bone a duck carefully, without breaking the skin. BoU the bones in a small quantity of water, and use the liquor for the gravy. Make a rich stuffing with half a pound of veal, half a pound of good suet, some parsley, chives, and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper, and make all into a paste with two well-beaten eggs and a little cream. Fill the inside of the duck, cook it en braise {see Duck, Braised), and serve with a ragout of chestnuts prepared with the gravy from the bones. Time, about an hour. Sufficient for five or six Duck, Wild, Hashed. Carve the duck neatly as helped at table, put the joints into a stewpan with a pint of good brown gravy, add a table-spoonful of Seville orange-juice or lemon pickle, a glass of claret, mixed spice, salt, and cayenne to taste, and thicken with breadcnmibs. Let it get gradually hot, and when on the point of boiling, serve with sippets of toast as a garnish. Any cold wild fowl may be hashed as above, but for pheasants and partridges use white wine instead of claret. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Duck, Wild, Roast. The essentials to be observed in roasting wild duck are, first, to keep the gravy well in the breast of the bird, and, next, not to lose the flavour through over-dressing. Pluck and draw carefullj', wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, cut off the head and neck, and scald the feet, which are either to be rested on each side of the breast or trussed like those of a fowl. Put the duck before a brisk fire for five minutes to bro' Ti the outside and protect the gravy, then baste plentifully with butter till done. Dredge with flour to give it a nice frothy appearance, and serve with a gravy in the dish, or in a tureen, if preferred. Make a gravy as follows : Boil down the necks and gi zards in a pint of water till reduced to half a pint, or take half a pint of veal gravy, add to it a slice oti: the end of a lemon or orange, an onion, three or fom- leaves of basil, a blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt ; boil all together, strain, and add a glassful of port wine and thr juice of a Seville orange or lemon. Serve hot. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. the couple. Allow two for a dish. Duck, with Olives. This is a simjjle dish, but much liked in Provence. Cook a duck en braise {see Duck, Braised.) Prepare the gravy in the usual way, adding plenty of mushrooms after the gravy has been strained. Soak some olives for three hours, remove the stones, put them into the gravy and boil up quickly. Then put in the duck and simmer twentj' minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over. Time to braise and stew, an houiand a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ducklings, Roasted. Make a stuffing thus : Boil four middle-sized onions ten or twelve minutes, and chop them very fine; add a table-spoonful of bread-crumbs, equal quantities of powdered sage, pepper, and flour of mustard half a salt-spoonful of each a teaspoonful of brandy, and an ounce or more of dissolved butter, with salt to taste ; or if prefeixed the following stuffing may be used : Two ounces of bread-crimibs, the same of butter, a little chopped parsley, two leaves of sage powdered, a small bit of lemon-peel, three shallots, with pepper and salt. Roast the ducks before a quick fire, give them steady basting for about f ortj minutes, then serve with the gi-avy dripped from them, and a good squeeze of lemon-juice ; add stock if required, with a tea-spoonful of soy, a little cayenne, or any sauce prefen-ed, and when thickened send to table in a tureen. Duke of Norfolk's Pudding. Take six eggs, separati' the yolks from the whites, beat up the yolks with a glassful of brandy, and flavour well with nutmeg and sugai'. Boil a large cupful of the best Carolina rice in a pint of Madeira for half an hour j add one dozen ratafia cakes and the egg mixture, and beatall together. Have ready a dish lined with puff paste, and bake slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, without Madeiia or brandy. Is. This quantity is sufficient for five or six persons. Duke of Northumberland's Pudding. Take of bread-crumbs, currants, and finely-shred suet, each six ounces ; of candied peel, mixed, one ounce. Beat up six eggs, leaving out the whites of two ; add six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a grated nutmeg, and the whole of the rind of a lemon, also grated. When these ingredients are thoroughly blended and beaten, butter a mould or basin, and boil the pudding three hours. Sei-ve with a sauce as follows : Into about a quarter of a pint of melted butter pour a glass of brandy or sherry, and the juice of a lemon, and add two ounces of loaf sugar, on which the I'ind of the lemon has been rubbed off. Stir the sauce whf n DUM ( 190 ) DUT well mixed over the fire, and send hot to table. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufacient for five or six persons. Dumbarton Cake. Beat up four eggs with half a pint of new milk, and flavour them with orange-flower or rose-water. Turn half a pound of -butter to cream, and work into it one pound of white sugar. Put these together, and add a wine-glassful of brandy, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and the same of grated, nutmeg. Dissolve as much carbonate of soda as will cover a shilling in a table-spoonful of hot water, and beat in suSicient flour to make the mixture as fer a pound cake. Bake iu a buttered tin and a quick oven. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 2s. Durapling Drops. Take one poimd and a half uf the best flour, make a hole in the middle, into which put a quarter of an o)unce of fresh German yeast, with a quarter of a pint of warm water or milk, mix it into a thin batter, scatter a little flour lightly over the top, and leave it by the side of the fire to rise. When wellrisen make it into a dough, with a little more warm milk, to which add two well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Let it rise for an hour, form it into light balls, and drop them one by one into fast-boiling water. When done, drain them an instant, but send to table quickly with gravy, or sugar and butter, or with melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with lemonjuice.. Time, twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, about 8d. Dumplings, Half-hour. Shred very finely half a pound of beef suet, and prepare the same weight of bread-crumbs, with the addition of one table-spoonful of flour, three ounces of currants, two ounces of sugar, a little lemon-peel and grated nutmeg, with three weUbeaten eggs to moisten. Roll the dough into balls, tie them separately in small cloths, and boil verj' quickly. Serve with melted butter, sweetened, poured over them. Time, haK an hour to boil. Probable cost. Is. Sufiicient for eight or ten dumplings. Dumplings, Plain. Take one pound of light dough, made as for bread, and roll it into small round balls, as large as an egg. Drop them into a saucepan of fast-boUing water, first flattening them with the hand. Care should be taken to keep the water boHing, and to serve quickly when done, or they will be heavj-. If the dough be mixed with milk, instead of water, the dumplings will be more delicate. They may be sent to table as an accompaniment to meat, or eaten with a sweet sauce. Time, twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient for twelve dumplings. Dumplings, Steamed. Get the ordinary dough at the baker's, and instead of boiling, steam over a saucepan of boiling water. The dumplings will take longer to steam than to boil, but they will present a better appearance, being smooth and dry on the outside, than boiled ones. There is besides the saving of an extra saucepan, for any article of food requiring fast boiling may be cooked imderneath the steamed dumplings. Care must be taken that the water 4oe8 not atop boiling untU they are done, and that they are served quickly. Meat gravy, or melted butter as a sauce. Time, half an hour to steam. Dutch Apple Pie. Pare, core, and slice three pounds of apples, and wash and drj-half a pound of currants ; lay part of the apples in a dish, and' strew the currants, some sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon over. Take off the white part of the lemon, cut the pulp into thin slices, and spread them on the currants, add sugar and plenty of candied orange and citron-peel sliced, and fill up with the remainder of the apples. Cover with a light paste and bake in a rather quick oven for an hour or more. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufiicient for seven or eight persons. Dutch Cream. Separate the whites from the yolks of three eggs, beat up the latter, and pour them gradually into a pint of new milk. Set the mUk in an enamelled saucepan, and add to it a pint of cream, five ounces of loaf sugar, and two di-achms of vanilla cut small. Stii' the mixture over a slow fire for about ten minutes, and when thick enough, pour it through a coarse strainer. It must not boU. Sufiicient for one quart or more. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Dutch Custard. Break six eggs into a basin, add three ounces of fine sugar, and whisk thoroughly. Line a pie-dish with puft" paste, or if preferred, only put a border round the edge. Mix a pint and a half of freshlypicked raspberries -with three ounces of sugar, add it to the eggs, and pour the mixture into the pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven. Time, thirty to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, Is. 9d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Dutch Flummery. Pare the rind of a lemon very thin, and infuse it in a pint of water -with half a pound of sugar. Set it on the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and the syrup well flavoured with the lemon-rind. Simmer a few minutes, and then add two ounces of isinglass to the syrup, the strained juice of four lemons, a pint of sherry, and the yolks of eight eggs. Strain the mixtui'e, put it into a jug, set the jug in a saucepan of boiling watez", and stii- until the flummery thickens. Take it out of the water, allow it to cool, and then pour it into moulds. A wine-glassful of brandy may be added to the sjTup, but in that case just so much less water wiU be required. Probable cost, exclusive of wine or brandy, 3s. Time, three or four minutes. Sufficient for a quart mould. Dutch Loaf Take a quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, one pound of dried cuiTants, two table-spoonfuls of cinnamon, a pint of sponge, and as much flour as will form a dough. Make a sponge the evening before you wish to bake a cake, of a tea-cupful and a half of milk, and as much flour stirred into it as will form a thick batter, with a little salt, and one giU of good yeast. In the morning this sponge should be light. Then beat the butter and sugar together, add the cinnamon, currants, and sponge, and flour enough to form a dough. Butter a pan, and when the mixture ig light, bake it in an oven about as hot as for bread. DXTT ( 191 ) EEL Dutch Sauce. Put four ounces of butter, three well-boaten yolks of eggs, a tea-spoonful of flour, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar into an earthenware pipkin, or stir it very gently over the fire in a bain-marie. As the butter melts, stir constantly, and take care it does not curdle, which it will do if it is allowed to boil. A few drops of vinegar may be added just before serving if thought necessarj'. This sauce has a pleasant sour flavour. It is specially adapted for asparagus, cauliflowcir, sea-kale, artichokes, boiled fish, meat or poultry ; in fact, anything requiring a delicate sharp sauce. The leaves picked from a bunch of parsley pounded in a mortar to extract the juice, simmered for a few minutes and added to half prat of bechamel sauce, makes, with a little salt, cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon stirred in just before serving, what is tailed " Green Dutch Sauce." Simmer till thick. Probable cost, 8d. Dutch Sauce for Pish. Blend together two ounces of butter and a small tea-spoonful of flour, put it into a stewpan with equal quantities of water and taiTagon vinegar, two table- spoonfuls of each, stir for a minute, and add the beaten j'olks of two eggs, keeping up the stirring until the mixture thickens. It must not boil, and when ready to serve pour into it half the juice of a lemon. Simmer till it thickens. Probable cost, 6d. Dutch Sauce, Green {see Dutch. Sauce). Dutch Water Souchy. Any freshwater fish is good for this dish. Remove the gills and eyes, and thi-ow them aside, but boil down the heads, tails, and fins with one or two of the fish that will not cut into neat pieces ; add an onion, parsley, lemon-peel, pepper, and salt, and about two quarts of water. Boil till the stock is strong enough. Skim, strain, and ?tew eels, flounders, perch, whiting, gudgeon, &c., all cut into smaU pieces, in this liquor. Any additional flavouring piay be added ; an anchovy or shallot is an improvement. SKces of brown bread and butter generally accompany this dish at table, and melted butter and parsley in a tureen. ; Time to make the stock, one hour; to stew fish, ten minutes. Eastern Biscuits. Separate four eggs, yolks from whites, beat the whites to a froth with half a pound of finely-sifted sugar ; shred five ounces of good beef suet, and half an ounce of almonds. Mix them with the beaten yolks and the frothed whites, adding very gradually two ounces and a haK of flour with a flavouring of lemon. Bate in a quick oven, in small tins, for fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. Eau Sucre. This is a very general beverage in France, made without rule as to quantity. A little sugar and some boiling water are the only ingredients. It is considered soporific, and ior this reason is much drunk at supper time. Edgings to Dishes. Of these there is a great variety. We give such as are in general use for made dishes ; for instance, rice, mashed potato, all kinds of pastry edgings, peeled new roundpotatoes, sippets of fried bread, hard-boiled eggs, small encumbers, tomatoes, sliced beetroot, and lemon, with the white of egg beaten to a froth and dropped on each slice of lemon, and then powdered over with cayenne pepper. Then, for sweet disheS; there is an almost endless variety, but the most elegant are preserved fruits and cream beaten to a froth, and coloured either green or red. It would be impossible to give a recipe for every kind of garniture, nor is it necessary. A good cook will use her own judgment and taste, but perhaps for the inexperienced it would be wise to say what edgings best suit certain dishes ; for instance, hashes of all kinds may be garnished with sippets of fried bread cut into fanciful shapes, mashed potatoes, and even rice, though the latter is more generally used for curries. Mushrooms are a most appropriate edging to stewed beef, and hard boiled eggs for calf's head en tortue, or stewed soles ; beetroot and parsley are excellent as a garnish for cold meat, and thin strips of beetroot laid crosswise on the breast of a boiled fowl give an excellent finish. Eel Broth. Take one pound of eels, a bunch of sweet herbs, some parsley, one onion, and a few peppercorns, cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. Clean and skin the fish, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with the other ingredients, and six pints of water. Simmer till the liquid is reduced onehalf, remove the scum as it rises, and strain all through a sieve. When the broth is cold and wanted for use, take off the fat and warm only what ia reqiiired. Sippets of toasted bread should be served at the same time. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient to make three pints of broth. Eel Patties. Skin and wash some middlesized eels, and after having cut them into pieces of an inch long, soak in salt and water for an hour. When drained, put them into a stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them; add salt, pepper, a blade of mace, a little lemon-peel, and a sprig of parsley. When the fish will separate from the bone, which will be the case after eight or ten minutes' gentle stewing, divide each piece into two, and put them aside until the broth has stewed a little longer, then remove the lemon-peel, mace, &c. Thicken with butter and a Little flovu-, flavour with lemonjuice or vinegar, and return the pieces of eel to the broth. Make patties as directed for mutton patties {see Mutton Patties). Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the crust. Eel Pie. Having skinned and cleansed two pounds of large-sized eels, divide them into pieces of two or three inches in length. Cut off the heads, tails, and fins, and boil them with a little lemon-peel, a shallot, a blade of mace, and as much of veal or mutton broth as will cover the eels in the pie-dish. Thicken with butter and flour, and add the juice of half a lemon. When strained and cool, throw the broth into the pie-dish orer the eels, sprinkle them with pepper, EEL ( 192) EEL salt, and chopped parsley, and cover with puff paste. Bake in a moderately brisk oven about one hour and a quarter, or the eels may be stewed first for half an hour and then finished in the pie. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eel Pie (another way). Take eels that weigh not less than half a pound when skinned. Put the heads, tails, and fins into a stewpan with some good veal broth, an onion, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. Cut the fish into pieces of three inches in length, and after soaking them in salt and water, rinse, drain, and lay them in a pie-dish with a seasoning of pepper and salt between each layer. "When the broth is well flavoured, skim, and strain it into a basin to get cold, then pour it over the eels, and bake vnth. an edging and cover of paste in a brisk oven. Warm a httle gravy Avith two table-spoonfuls of cream, and pour it into the pie through a paper funnel as soon as it comes from the oven. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Two pounds sufiicient for four or five persons. Eel Pie with Tench. Skin two eels, and bone them, and clean and bone two tench. Cut the eels into two-inch pieces, but ,the tench leave whole. Put water to the bones and trimmings, and stew them for one hour. This liquor, when strained, and the fat taken off, boiled with two onions, four blades of mace, three anchovies, pepper, salt, and a bunch of herbs, will be ready, when strained, for the pie. Lay the eels and the tench into a dish, with a few hard-boiled eggs and chopped parsley, in layers, and pour in as much of the liquor as is required. Cover with puff paste, and bake in a rather quick oven. More liquor may be added after the pie is done. Time, about thirty-five minutes to bake. Sufiicient for four persons. Eel Soup. Soak three pounds of middlesized eels in salt and water. Cut off the heads, bone, and slice them thinly. Simmer them in a stewpan, with three ounces of good butter. Allow them ten minutes, and then add two quarts of water, an onion sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, three blades of mace, some peppercorns, salt to taste, and a small roll. Simmer tiU the eels are tender, then remove them, and strain the liquid. Make a smooth batter with two table- spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pint of cream ; put this and the Uquid together, and boil up, to throw over the sliced eels in the tureen. A piece of toasted bread cut into dice may be sent up with it. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, Is. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Eel Soup, Brown. Fry three potmds of eels, after rolling them in flour, bread-crumbs, or batter. Open, take out the bones, and set them aside. Fry chopped onions brown in butter, browning afterwards enough flour to thicken the soup without egg-yolks. Stir in gradually either water or stock; during the process season as for eel soup, white {see Eel Soup, White). Put in the eel, and if you will, add at the same time a glass of white wine. After one boU up, serve, accompanied by bread dice toasted or fried. Similar soups can be made with other firm-fleshed, middle-sized fish, as small conger, soles, &c. By the same treatment cold remnants of fish, of various kinds, both boiled and fried, may be economised by appearing in novel and palatable forms of soup. They can be enriched by any lobster, oyster, or anchovy sauce that is left. If you happen to have a few shrimps, pick a handful ; boil their shells ; with a little of the liquor give a slight flavour of shrimps to the soup, at the same time that you throw in your shrimp meats. These soups bear a dust of cayenne and sugar, and should be accompanied by bread or rolls. Eel Soup, White. Set a saucepan of water on the fire ; season with salt, whole pei per, a blade of mace, a strip of lemon-peel, and a bunch of the most fragrant sweet herbs at command. AVhen it boils, thi-ow in the eels. As soon as they are done enough (and they are spoiled if done too much) just enough to let the flesh come away from the bone take them out, split them in two, and remove the bone. Each length of eel will thus make two pieces, which should be left entire. Set them aside. Chop fine three or four white onions. Roll a lump of butter in flour; put it in a stewpan with the onions ; moisten gradually with a little of the eel broth. When the onions are tender, add the rest of the liquor (removing the herbs and the lemon-peel), stirring it in gradually, Avith a tea-cupful of fresh milk. Throw in the eel meats, and set the soup aside until they are hot through. While they are so heating, you may further thicken with a couple of egg-yolks well worked into a little of the liquor. Taste if sufficiently seasoned. You will find an almost imperceptible dust of sugar an improvement. In fact, most white soups, even when seasoned with salt, are the better for a sprinkling with sugar. Eels (a la Boulette) . When the eel has been skinned and cleaned, cut into pieces, and roll the pieces first in melted butter, and then in flour. Put the pieces of eel into a stewpan with equal qantities of white wine and water ; add a bunch of herbs, some mushi-ooms, pepper, and salt, and stew till done ; then remove the fish, and thicken the gravy with the yolk of an egg. After skimming off the fat from the surface, serve quickly, and add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and a little vinegar. Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eels (a la Tartare). Skin and cleanse two or three eels, cut them into pieces of two inches, and let the pieces lie half an hour in salt and water. Take equal quantities of red wine and stock broth, a gill of each ; simmer the pieces of eel in this until nearly done. When cool, dip each piece separately into oiled butter or beaten es:: , cover with bread-crumbs, and broil or fry till all are nicely browned. Serve with tartar sauce on the dish {see Tartar Sauce). Bread crusts browned in the oven, and then pounded fine, make the best crumbs for eels. Time, twenty-five minutes to simmer ; to fry, five minutes. Sufficient, two pounds, for five or six persons. EEL ( 193 ) EEL Eels, Baked. Take a large eel that has been skinned and well cleansed. Fill it with a forcemeat composed of the following ingredients : three tahle- spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and the same quantity of shelled shrimps, a little pounded mace, two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, pounded to a paste, with the beaten yolk of an egg. When stuffed, put the eel into a round baking-dish with water and sherry, the quantity of the former being twice as much as that of the latter, add two or three ounces of butter, and bake. Wlicn ready to serve, skim and strain the gravy. Garnish with slices of lemon. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for two or more persons. Eels, Boiled. Soak three or four small ones (if they are preferred), in strong salt and water for an hour. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with just the quantity of water requisite to cover the fish. Add a bunch of parsley, and let the eels simmer about haf an hour. Serve them in a shallow dish, with parsley and butter poured over. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. Sufficient for four persons. Eels, Boiled, for Convalescents (Invalid Cookeky). When the skin has been drawn oif the eel, it is placed before a clear fire, or on a gridiron over a fire, to rid it ot the oily matter. When it has parted with the fat (it wiU not require to be kept before the fire for this purpose more than ten minutes), scrape and wash it in warm water, and then put it into a saucepan with more hot water about one quart add a bunch of parsley, and a small quantity of salt, and simmer till done. Serve with a little of the broth in the dish, and minced parsley as well. It should be simmered for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eels, Broiled. Clean and skin two eels ; if large ones, cut them into pieces of three or four inches ; if small, they should be curled round, but first sprinkled with a mixture of chojiped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little powdered sage, then rubbed or dipped in yolk of egg, and strewn with bread-crumbs. Serve with sauce as for boiled eels, or anchovy sauce, if preferred. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, from 6d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. COLLARED EELS. Eels, Collared. Take a large eel, cut oflE the head and tail, and remove the skin and backbone without tearing the flesh. Spread it out flat on a board, and cover it with a seasoning composed of the following ingredients : A small bunch of herbs, two leaves of sage minced very fine, two cloves, two blades of mac?, and a little allspice and whole pepper well pounded, with salt to taste. EoU up the eel, beginning with the broad end, and bind it tightly with a tape. Boil down the backbone, head, and tail with pepper, salt, mace, and vinegar. Put the eel to this liquor, and stew about three-quarters of an hour, and when tender set it aside. Boil up the liquor with more vinegar and spice, if required, and when cool add it to the fish. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eels (en Matelote). Cut up some very small onions -five or six of them and brown them with a little butter and flour in a stewpan. When of a light brown, add about half a pint of good broth and the same quantity of port wine, a few mushrooms, a laurel-leaf, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Have ready two pounds of eels, divided into lengths of three inches, simmer them in this gravy till tender, then remove the eels and place them high in the centre of a dish. Thicken the sauce with butter and flour, and serve it hot poured over. Time to stew the eels, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for four or five persons. Eels, Fricasseed. Cut up four pounds of skinned eels into pieces of four inches in length, put them into a ste ijan with equal quantities of sherry wine and water, enough to cover them ; add twenty oj'sters, a bunch of herbs, an onion stuck with five or six cloves, some parsley, pepper, salt, and cayenne. When the eels have stewed one hour remove them to a dish, strain the gravy, and put it back into the stewpan with a quarter of a pint of cream and some butter about an ounce rolled in flour. Thicken this gra-\y, and pour it over the fish. Serve with horse-radish as a garnish. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Eels, Fried. After the eel has been skinned and cleansed, cut it into neat pieces of four inches long, and when quite dry, season them with salt and pepper, and dip each piece into the beaten yolk of egg, cover it with bread-crumbs, and fry to a nice brown in butter or lard. If the eels are small they are usually curled round instead of being cut into pieces. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve on a napkin. Fry for about twenty minutes. Probabie cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eels, Mayonnaise of. Skin and empty an eel of about two pounds and a half weight, and cut it into lengths of two inches and a half. Throw the pieces into salt and water, and, when thoroughly cleansed, drain and dry them. Place them in neat layers, with spice between each layer, in a potting-dish. Poui' a mixture of vinegar and water, with a little dissolved isinglass in it over the contents of the pot, and stew or bake in a moderate oven till tender. When sent to table, fill a dish with the pieces of eel, and pour over them as much Mayonnaise sauce as wiU cover them ; decorate according to taste, and surround the dish with lumps of jelly taken from the potting-dish. Time, about one hour to pot. EEL ( 194 ) EGG Eels, Potted. Cooked in this manner they are said to he richer and better when unskinned. CSioose young eels, and cleanse them as follows : Hold the head of the fish in your left hand, grasp it firmly between the thumb and finger ; in the other "hand have ready a cloth with a good quantity of coarse salt; draw the eel through, pressing it tightly as it passes through the salt, then soak in salt and water one hour. When thoroughly cleansed, cut them into pieces about two inches long, put them into a brown earthem pot with a cover, season with salt, pepper, and allspice. Pour viuegar and water on them, and bake in a slow oven till tender. The pickled eels that are sent from the northern countries of Europe to the south are not skinned. Eels Roasted in the Ashes. River fish caught iri the neighbourhood of faiTQS are roasted expeditiously on the hearth of a wood fire. When skinned and cleaned, they are rolled into a spiral form, dusted with pepper and salt, and enclosed in a double buttered paper. A hot part of the hearth is then swept clean, and the papered fish laid upon it. Hot ashes are next shovelled over till every part is covered, and when the oels are sufiiciently done, the outside paper is removed, and they are thus sent to table accompanied by plain melted butter or any sauce at hand. Time, about half an houi-, or according to the heat of the ashes. Eels, Sauce for. Eels are generally cooked " without then- skins, thus rendering them more delicate, and requiring only a mild sauce, such as capers, sorrel, or parsley and butter for boiled eels ; but when very rich, as they always are if the skins are retained, some piquante sauce is necessary {see Sauce a la Tartare). Eels, Spitchcoeked. Large eels are best for this mode of cooldng. When skinned and split, the back bones should be taken out SPITCHCOCKED EELS. carefully without tearing the fish, and they should be divided into three or four-inch pieces. Have ready a seasoning of chopped parsley, a very little sage, a blade of mace pounded, pepper, and salt ; let the pieces be well smeared with warmed butter and lemon-juice (or let them lie in it for two or three minutes), then strew the seasoning over, and dip each piece in egg and bread-cnunbs. Fry in boiling fat, and serve in a round on the dish with sauce piquantos in the middle. Some prefer plain melted butter with the juice of lemon. Time, half an hour to fry. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Eel Spitchcoeked (another way). Skin and clean a large eel, and lard it with very thin narrow strips of bacon ; make a seasoning of herbs, salt, and pepper ; sprinkle the eel all over with it, then put equal quantities of good veal broth and vinegar into a dish, and lay the fiah in for three hours ; let there be enough to cover it. Drain it dry, and fold it in a buttered paper, first turning and skewering it backwards and forwards, that it may be more conveniently cooked. When on the spit, baste frequently ; and add half a pint of wlute vnne to mix with the drippings in the pan for this purpose. Take off the paper a few minutes before it is quite done, and baste and flour, that it may be of a nice brown. Fried bread may be placed round the dish, and broiled slices of salmon ; or they may be varied with small soles fried of a beautiful colour. Time to roast, from thirty to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, from 6d. to Is. per pound. Eels, Stewed. Divide four large eels into pieces of about two inches, and season them with pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace. Lay them in a deep dish with a little veal stock, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a very little chopped parsley sprinkled in layers over them. Tie down with a paper, first putting some small bits of butter on the top. Stewed eels are always best when done in a moderate oven. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. Egg and Brandy Cream. Beat well the yolks of five fresh eggs with a spoonful of cream. Add three ounces of sugar, finely pounded and sifted, and two glasses of the best French brandy. Blanch and pound equal quantities of sweet and bitter almonds, forty in all, and boil them in a few spoonfuls of milk ; add them, when cold, to the eggs, and stir the mixture thoroughly. When it is perfectly mixed, pour it into a well-lined saucepan along with a quart of cream; stir one way till it becomes thick, but do not let it boil. Serve in custard-cups with a ratafia on the top of each. Probable cost, about 4s. 9d. Sufficient for twelve cups. Egg Balls. Boil some eggs tUl they are hard, separate the yolks, pound them, and with the yolks of raw eggs and a little flour, roll up into small balls. These balls are used for turtle soup. Egg Balls (another way). To one egg put just as little flour as will make it into a paste that you can pinch into shape with your fingers. Season with pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and less chopped lemon-peel cut very thin. Work these into pellets the size of marbles, making a few of them long like miniature sausages. Put them into boiling broth, and let them boil galloping till their substance is set. Egg Barley Soup (German). To the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs, and the whites of one, add as much floxir as will make a stiff hard ball. Grate it on a coarse bread-grater ; let the gratings fall separately over a largo space, and let them dry ; then sprinkle them lightly into boiling broth, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. EGa ( 195 ) EGG Egg Flip should be made with white ale if it can be procured. Make one pint of ale warm, but not too hot. Beat two or three eggs, with three ounces of sugar, together, thraw the eggs into the jug containing the ale, and then throw both back into the empty jug. This must be done quickly five or six times, until all is well mixed together; then grate ginger and nutmeg over the top, and the flip is quite ready. Serve in glasses while hot. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Egg Mince Pies. Boil six eggs hard, shred them small; shred double the quantity of suet; then add currants, washed and picked, one pound, or more if the eggs are large, the peel of one lemon shi-ed very fine, and the juice, six siDoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nut- meg, sugar, and a very little suet, and orange, lemon, and citron-peel candied. Egg Pie. Take one pound of good beef suet, shred it fine, one pound of cun-ants well washed and picked, twelve hard-boiled eggs, a little cinnamon or nutmeg, and a little cream. Beat aU together, put the mixture into a piedish and bake with an edging of puff paste for three-quarters of an houi-. Probable cost, about 2s. 6d. Egg-powder Cake. Egg-powder, as it is called, is a vegetable compoimd, intended to serve as a substitute for eggs, to fom- of which one penny packet professes to be equivalent in cake-making, and sufficient to add to two pounds of flour. Some cooks, however, think it best to use it in addition to eggs. The powder is firstonixed with the floui", and then water or milk is added for plum, batter, and other puddings, cakes, pancakes, &c. For a cake, mix well together one quartern of flour, half a pound of butter, two ounces of sweet pork lard, tlireequarters of a pound of well-washed cm-rants, half a pound of sugar, two packets of eggpowder, and three eggs. You may add mixed spices, grated nutmeg, and candied citron-peel, to your taste. When these are thoroughly stirred up together, with enough milk to briag the whole to a proper consistency, butter the inside of your cake-tin, put the cake in, and bake immediately. The top of the cake may be glazed with beat-up egg. Egg Salad. Bon eight eggs hard, chop the yolks and whites separately ; put a little salad into the dish, cover it with the eggs in layers. When done, make a hole in the middle and pour in the salad mixture. Egg Sandwiches. Boil some eggs hard as if for a salad. When quite cold, cut them into thin slices, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and place the slices between nicely-prepared bread and butter. This is a convenient and delitate preparation for a journey taken in haste. Egg Sauce. Blond two ounces of good fresh butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour ; put the mixture into a small saucepan with a wineglassful of water ; or, if the sauce be intended for salt fish, of the liquor in which the fish was boiled ; see that it is not too salt, a fault which a little, milk or water will remedy. .Sjmraer, but do not boil. When ready to boil, draw the saucepan from the fire, and stu- in two ounces more of butter and two or three hard-boiled eggs cut small. Time, one minute to simmer. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Egg Sauce for Calf's Head. Take half a pint of veal or any white broth, thicken it with an ounce of butter blended with an ounce and a half of flour ; add, when it boils, some minced parsley, three eggs boiled hard and chopped separately, yolks from whites, a little cayenne pepper, and a squeeze of lemonjuice. Take the sauce ?if the tire, and stir into it another ounce of butter. Serve in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost for this quantity, 8d. Sufficient for a tureenful. Egg Soup. Put the beaten yolks of two eggs into a bowl with two ounces of butter ; pour boiling water on the eggs, stirring rapidly the whole time until the butter has melted. Stir the mixture over a slow fire till it begins to simmer, then remove it from the saucepan, and throw it from one jug or bowl to another till the soup looks smooth and frothed. Once more make it hot, and send it to table. The above is a good meagre soup, but it may be much improved by using broth instead of water. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Egg Toast. Place a bowl containing three ounces of good butter in boUing water, and stiiuntil the butter is quite melted ; mix it with f omweU-beaten eggs, and put them together into a saucepan, keeping it- moving round in one direction until the mixture becomes heated; then poiu- it quickly into a basin, and back again into the saucepan. Eepeat this until it is hot, but on no account must it be boiling. Have ready some slices of- buttered toast, lay the mixture of egg thickly over, and serve very hot. Time, about five minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for two persons. Egg Vol-au- Vents. Mince two truffles and put them into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of thick cream ; add four eggs that have boiled twenty minutes, chop them small ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Have ready some paste-cases, and when the mixture has simmered five minutes, fill them and serve hot. Sufficient for six cases. Egg Wine. Boil together in a delicate saucepan one or two glasses of white wine, -with half the quantity of water ; sM'ceten to taste, and add a little nutmeg. Beat well in a basin one or two eggs, with a spoonful of cold water to each egg; pour the boiling wine very slowly into the basin, stirring steadily all the time, and then back into the saucepan. Hold the saucepan with one hand over the fire for only a minute, and stir vith the other. Do not let the contents boil or they will be spoiled. Egg wine is often made without warming the egg, in which state it is lighter, if not so agreeable to the taste. Eggs (a la Bonne Femmo) . Get six eggs of the same size, large ones, boil them ton minutes, and when cool enough, remove the .shells carefully. Divide them equally in halves, take out the yolks and cut from each the pointed tip of EGG ( 196 ) EGG white that they may stand flatly. Make tiny dice of some cold chicken, ham, boiled beetroot, and the yolks of the eggs. Fill the EGGS (a la bonne FEMME). hollows with these up to the brim, and pile the dice high in the centre two of ham and chicken, or separately, two of boiled beetroot, and two with the hard yolks. Arrange some neatly-cut lettuce on a dish, and place the eggs amongst it. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs (a la Carmelite). Chop some sorrel, a little parsley, and two or three small boiled onions together; add the yolks of six hardboiled eggs chopped separately; season with pepper and salt, and mix with a little melted butter. FiU the whites of the eggs, which should be di dded in halves, lengthways, with this mixture, and warm them thoroughly in a white sauce composed of two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pint of cream, vith a blade of mace to flavour. If flour be used it should be only sufiicient to prevent the butter from oiling. Serve with a little lemon- jmce squeezed into the sauce. Time, twenty minutes to boil eggs. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Eggs (a la Creme). Tofive or six eggs that have been weU whipped to a froth add gradually half a pint of cream, and, while mixing, flavour with a tea-spoonful of salt. Butter a mould and pour in the mixture. It may be baked in the oven for ten minutes, or placed over a pan of boiling water. When turned out of the mould, a rich brown gravy should be poured round it. Probable cost, 2s. Eggs (a la Duchesse). Flavour one quart of milk with vanilla or orange-flower water ; or, if preferred, boil it with lemon-rind, cinnamon, and laurel-leaves till the flavour is extracted ; sweeten to taste, and, when boiling, have ready the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Drop these from a spoon into the boiling milk, turn the eggs until they are done, and then place them to drain. Send them to table in a glass dish, with a custard made -with the yolks and some of the milk (with additional flavouring if required) poured over them. Time, two minutes to poach the whites. Probable cost, 9d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Eggs (a la Fran aise) . A very common and simple mode of dressing eggs is to slide them as if for poaching on to a well-buttered tin dish, and set them over the fire or in an oven until the whites are set. This is a favourite way of cooking them in France and Germany, where eggs are plentiful and cheap. Time, four or five minutes to dress. Eggs (a la Gruyere). Melt a quarter of a pound of Gruyere cheese in a stewpan over a slow fire, with a small quantity of butter, a quarter of a pint of veal stock, a seasoning of finely-minced chives, parsley, grated nutmeg, and salt. Add, as soon as the cheese has been well stirred with the other ingredients, four well-beaten eggs, and stir tiU the herbs are sufiiciently done. Serve with sippets of toasted bread. Eggs (a r Italienne) . Break seven or eight eggs into a saucepan, with a bit of butter in it. Add the juice of a lemon, a glass of white wine, enough pounded sugar to make them decidedly sweet, a pinch of salt, and any approved fiavouring, as orange-flower water or cura(,-oa. Then proceed exactly as with scambled eggs {see Eggs, Scambled). When they are set without being hard, pile them on a hot dish, dust them well with sugar, and candy it a little either under a salamander or with a redhot fire shovel. Eggs (a la Maitre d' Hotel). SUce and fry some Spanish onions in butter, but do not let them brown. Add a little fiour, some hot milk, chopped parsley, salt, and white pepper, and let the sauce thicken. Cut some eggs that have been boiled twenty minutes into quarters, lay them into the sauce, and when hot, aiTange the eggs neatly in a dish and pour the sauce over them. Eggs (a la Tripe). Slice a dozen hardboiled eggs thinly, and lay them in a stewpan with three ounces of butter mixed with a little fleur. Before the eggs are put in let the butter dissolve. Add five or six onions, previously boiled and chopped fine, season with pepper and salt, and simmer for five minutes. Stir in slowly two table-spoonfuls of cream, and simmer another five minutes, when the sliced egg may be put into the gravy to warm for two minutes. Shake the pan round while warming, and serve with the sauce. Sufiicient for five or si.x persons. Eggs (a la Tripe). Another way. Boil six eggs for ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. Boil two Portugal onions. When partly done, change the water, and when quite done, peel and slice them. Simmer the slices of onion for another half hour in milk, and add a bit of butter rolled in flour. Slice the eggs lengthways, and when the butter has dissolved and the milk has thickened a little, put in the egg. Garnish the dish with sippets of toast, and serve with some newly-made mustard. Time to boil onions, two hours or more. Probable cost, Is. Sufiicient for three or foirr persons. Eggs (a la Tripe). Another way. Boil eight eggs hard, remove the yolks without breaking, and cut up the whites to a mince. Lay the yolks in the middle of a dish, and the whites round them. Have ready some bechamel sauce, add a dessert - spoonful of finely -cut parsley, and when hot, throw it over the eggs. Send to table garnished with croutons fried, or leaves of puff paste. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. EGG ( 197 EGG and Asparagus. Cut a slice of bread to suit a dish, toast and butter it while quite hot, then lay it on the dish, and keep both wai-m by the side of the fire. Have ready six well-beaten eggs, add a little salt and pepper, and put them into a saucepan with a lump of butter. Beat the eggs until they have lost their fluid state, then spread them over the toast with asparagus, boiled and cut small, laid on the top of the eggs. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or more persons. Eggs and Asparagus (another way). Boil some nice young asparagus, and cut it into pieces as nearly as possible like peas. Have ready four eggs well beaten, and flavoured with pepper and salt. Put the asparagus with them and stir gently; then dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and stir the mixture until it is thick. Serve on toast. Time to boil asparagus, fifteen to eighteen minutes after the water boils; to stew with the eggs, two or three minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Eggs and Bread. Take a penny loaf, soak it in a quart of milk for two hom-s, or till the bread is soft. Put to it two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water or rose-water ; sweeten it, and grate into it a little nutmeg. Take a dish and butter the bottom of it, break in as many eggs as Avill cover the bottom, pomin the bread and milk, set the mixture in a tin oven before a fire, and half an hour will bake it. Eggs and Burnt Butter. Prepare half a dozen eggs as if for poaching, by breaking each one separately into a cup. Bl?o 'n three ounces of butter in a large frying-pan, and slide the eggs from the cups into it ; when they have weU set, ladle the biimt butter over them, and sprinkle salt and some nutmeg. Serve on toast wetted with vinegar. Time, from two and a half to thi-ee and a half minutes, according to size of eggs. Sufficient, two eggs for each person. Eggs and Celery. Put into a ste an four heads of celery that have been previously cut into short pieces, and boiled till neai-ly done in salt and water. Stew the celery for five minutes with three table-spoonfuls of cream and half a table-spoonful of vinegar. Season according to taste with salt and white pepper. Place the celery on a dish, and serve poached eggs neatlj' on the top of it. G-amish with slices of hardboiled eggs. Time, twenty-five minutes to boil celery. Sufficient for five or six poached eggs. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Eggs and Cucumber. Put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, and let it dissolve. Peel, quarter, and cut into slices three small cucumbers, and shred some young onions ; add these to the butter, flavour with pepper and salt, and throw in half a table-spoonfid of vinegar. When the mixture has simmered ten minutes, have ready slices of six hard-boiled eggs, which warm up for two minutes longer, stirring in a table-spoonful of cream j ust before serving. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs and Garlic. Pound ten cloves of garlic that have been boiled for twenty mrnutes the water having been changed during the boiling with a couple of anchovies ; put them, when well pounded, into a stewpan, and add two table spoonfuls of oil, the beaten yolks of two eggs, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and salt, and mix aU together while being heated. Put the mixture on a dish, and serve with sliced hard-boiled eggs. Four eggs will cut slices enough for this dish. Time, ten minutes to di-ess eggs ; two or three minutes to wami the mixture. Sufficient, two eggs to each person. Eggs and Gravy. Put a young wellfed fowl into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, some spice, a faggot of herbs, and half a dozen small onions, let it brown slightly and equally ; add half a pint of stock, close the lid tightly, and finish the cooking over a very slow fire. Parboil the liver of the fowl in some good gravy, remove it, and poach half a dozen eggs in the same liquor. Rub down the liver to a paste, and use it to thicken the gravy in which the fowl has been stewed. Place the fowl on a hot dish, with balls of spinach round it ; lay a poached egg on each ball, flattening it with the back of the slice ; pom- the gravy over the fowl, and serve hot. Time, one hour to stew the fowl. Eggs and Milk. Beat six eggs with two ounces of loaf sugar and a pint of milk ; put the whole into a pie-dish, which set for threequarters of an hour in a bain-riiaric. AVhen done, sprinkle it with powdered sugar, pass the red-hot shovel over the top, and serve either hot or cold. Eggs and Mushrooms. Cut off the ends and stalks from half a pint of mushroom buttons, put them into a basin of water with a little lemon- juice as they are done. Drain and sUce them with some large onions, which fry in butter. Put them into a stewpan with some good gravy and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, sliced separately from the whites, or sinmier all in good fresh butter, flavoured with eschalot vinegar, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and mustard. Cut the whites of the eggs into rings, put some of them with the yolks into the stewpan just long enough to get hot, and garnish with the remainder and curled parsley. Time to stew mushrooms, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost of mushrooms, Is. to 2s. per pint. Eggs and Onions. Fry some onions, nicelj" sliced, in butter; put a rather large sprinkling of cayenne pepper over them. Drain them from the butter, and put them on a dish before the fire to dry a little. Press out the juice of a lemon over them, and then lay nicelypoached eggs on the top. Serve very hot. Time to fry onions, five minutes ; to poach eggs, three to four minutes. Six eggs sufficient for thi'ec persons. Eggs and Potatoes. Boil seven or eight floury potatoes and mash them while quite hot; add one oimce of butter, the yolk of an egg, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a little pounded onion, and boiled minced parsley. Poll the potatoes into egg-like shape, brush them c' '' EGG ( 198 ) EGG with beaten egg, and cover with fine breadcrumbs, well seasoned with salt and white pepper. Put them into an oven to brown, or fry in lard or dripping till they are of a fine brown colour; lay them before the fire to drain, if fried, and serve garnished with fried parsley. Time, half an hour to boil potatoes. Probable cost, 1 d. to 2d. per pound. Allow one pound for three persons. Eggs and Sauce. Chop finely a teaspoonful each of parsley and chives, and put them into a stcwpan, with two ounces of butter and a little flour ; add a glass of sherry, a teaspoonful of salt, and half the quantity of pepper. When the sauce has simmered about ten minutes, have ready half a dozen poached eggs ; lay them on toast, and send to table with the sauce poured round. Sufficient sauce for six eggs. Probable cost. Is., without wine. Eggs and Sauce, Robert. Boil twelve eggs for fifteen minutes, quarter them, after removing the shells, and have ready the above sauce, in which tho eggs should be placed just long enough to heat them thoroughly ; gently mix them with the sauce, that they may not get broken, and serve hot {see Sauce, Robert). Allow two eggs for each person. Eggs and Sorrel. Like spinach, sorrel requires much washing to clear it from grit. When weU drained, cut up enough nice leaves to fill a pint, and either stew them in an earthenware jar in a cool oven, or in a stewpan with two ounces of dissolved butter, pepper, and salt. While tho son-el is stewing, boil four eg ?? hard and bmise the yolks with a quarter of a pint of cream, and when it is tender, stir the mixture into it by degrees. Servo, turned out smooth on a dish, with hard-boiled eggs (allow six for this quantity of sorrel), quartered and arranged over and round it. Time, about twenty-five minutes to prepare. Snfficient for three persons {see also Eggs and Spinach, or Sorrel). Eggs and Spinach. Prepare some spinach by washing very carefully, and then boiling till tender. Put iato cold water to keep the colour good, and when quite cold, press the water out of it, a little at a time, in a towel. Chop it .very fine, and put it into a stewpan with a Imnp of butter and some rich gravy. Boil it quickly in this, and add pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Or it may be stewed with cream and a little sugar, which is a very delicate method. Poach six eggs, and trim them neatly. Serve them upon the spinach. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boU; five minutes to stew. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient for three persons. Eggs and Spinach, or Sorrel. Poach not quite new-laid eggs. Put some boiUng water into a clean frying-pan, and when it boils up, draw the pan aside and slip into it egg after egg, previously broken into cups ; add a table-spoonful of vinegar, if liked, to the water, and simmer till the white is set, then remove with a slice, trim,andlay the eggs on the spinach. Atin eggpoacher is an assistance to an inexperienced cook in this delicate operation. Break an egg into each perforated cup, and place the machine in a stewpan of boiling water ; the eggs axe easily slipped out as soon as done. To those who like acids, sorrel may be used instead of spinach. Ser\-e either under the poached cggS. TimS to poach eggs, two and a half to three minutes. Two eggs sufiicient for one person. Eggs and White Sauce. Cut five hardboiled eggs in halves, so as to form cups of the whites when the yolk is removed. Mix the yolks to a paste with a table-spoonful of cream and an oimce of butter ; add to it a tea-spoonful of minced onion and parsley, and when well flavoured with s;ilt and cayenne, fill the whites and set them over steam till quite hot. Pare off the pointed tips, as before directed {see Eggs a la Bonne Femme), that they may stand steadily on the dish. Serve in white sauce. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. Eggs, as Snow. Separate the yolks from the whites of six eggs. Beat the whites to a froth, with a little finely-powdered sugar. Have ready a full pint of new milk well sweetened and flavoured with vanilla, orange-flower water, or rose-water. When it boils, drop in, one by one, table-spoonfuls of the frothed egg, and when set, remove each with a sHce. By varying the quantity dropped in, a handsomer dish will be obtained than by keeping to one uniform size. Arrange the patches of snow on a large dish, and group the large ones in the centre. If the milk has cooled a little, mix the egg-yolks slowly and very gradually with it till all is used, and it has become thick. Pom- this amongst and around, but not over the snow. Serve cold as a supper dish. Eggs (au Gratin). Chop very fine an anchovy, an eschalot, and a sprig of parsley, and mix them with three yolks of eggs to a small cupful of bread-crumbs and two ounces of butter; season with salt and pepper. Have ready a hot dish ; butter it well, and strew the mixture over the bottom. Place the dish in a Dutch oven, and brown it slightly; then break half a dozen eggs into separate cups and slide them neatly on to the dish, after which return it to the oven for three minutes, or until the whites have set. Serve immediately. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs (au Miroii-). Spread butter upon a dish that can be set on the fire ; break the egg over it, adding salt, pepper, and two spoonfuls of milk ; place it on a slow fire, with a red-hot shovel over it, and serve when the eggs are set. Or, cut some asparagus tops into pieces Hke peas; boil them a quarter of an hour, then take them out, and put them into a stewpan, with a bimch of parsley, chives, and a piece of butter; set them over a slow fire, put in a pinch of flour, add a little water, and let them stew, seasoning with salt and sugar. When done, put them into the dish they are to be served in, and break over them some eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Set them for a short time over the fire, press a red-hot shovel over, and sen'e the yolks soft. Eggs, Beating. This is best done with rods of wood in a shallow, flat-bottomed pan ; bestow the beating with short, quick, downward strokes, without moving the elbow, which should be kept close to the side. When the EGG ( 199) S6G foaming and bubbles disappear, and the beaten eggs assume the appearance which has been weU described as that of a rich boiled custard, your task will have been very well accomplished. Kent's egg-beater is an excellent little instrument which greatly facilitates this process. Eggs, Blancmange of . Emj ty f our or five largo eggs by making a small oj)ening at one end. Wash them witlj, a little warm water, and then di-ain dry. Fix them steadily into egg-cups, or put them in a dish fiUed with rice or sago, and till with blancmange by the same aperture through which the egg contents escaped. Do not distm-b them till quite cold. Carefully remove the shells, and serve the blancnaange eggs in a glass dish with a coloured cream around them, or shred a lemon or orange into the lightest of fine strips, and lay them amongst it. Eggs, Boiled. The lightest preparation of eggs is to simply boil them three minutes, when the white will be sUghtly coagulated, and the yolk will retaia its fluid state. A new-laid egg will require longer boiling than a stale one. Four minutes is not too long to get the white well set of a quite fresh egg, while three minutes will be generally sufficient for one more advanced. Machines may be bought for this pm-pose, and an egg boiled at the breakfasttable by one of these simple tin machines will not fail to give satisfaction. Eggs, Boiled, Hard. An egg may be boiled hard in from five to ten minutes, but to boil them mealy (which is the lightest preparation next to only boiling them long enough to set the white) allow one whole houi\ The experiment should be tested by those who are not aware of the result. It transforms the hard-boiled egg into a digestible article of food. Eggs, Broiled. Cut a sUce the whole round of a quartern loaf, toast it lightly, trim the edges, and lay it on a dish before the fire, with some bits of butter placed over it. When this melts, break and spread carefully six or eight eggs on the toast. Have ready a salamander, and when the eggs are sufficiently done, squeeze a Seville orange and grate some nutmeg over them. Time, till the eggs are set. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. Eggs, Buttered. Brown some butter in a frying-pan, and break five eggs upon a dish, as if for poaching, with a seasoning of salt and nutmeg ; pour some of the butter, in its boiling state, over them, and move them gently to get aU the butter about them ; put the dish by the fire to keep hot, and finish browning the eggs with a red-hot shovel if you have no salamander. Time to brown butter, &c., about ten minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sujfficient for one dish. Eggs, Buttered (another way). Put three oxmces of butter into a basin, place it in boUing water, and stir tiU melted ; add eight eggs, well beaten, and pour both together into a well-lined saucepan. When the eggs and butter have been held long enough over a gentle fire to warm, throw them back into the basin and again into the saucepan ; do this two or three times, that they may get thoroughly blended. Keep the mixture stirred one way tiU hot, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Cut slices of bread, toast, and butter them wliiles hot. Servo with the buttered eggs on the top. Time, about five minutes to make the egga hot. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Eggs Cooked without Boiling. By this very simple process eggs are said to be lighter and better adapted to delicate stomachs than by the old and general plan of boiling. Proceed as follows : Heat a basin with boilingwater till it is thoroughly hot ; then throw off the water and put the eggs to be cooked into it, moving them round so that every part shall receive the heat. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, pour this over the eggs, and cover the basin to prevent any steam from escaping. In twelve minutes they will be perfectly cooked. _ Eggs, Curried. Fry a couple of middlesized onions in butter, and stir into the pan, as soon as the onions are slightly browned, one table-spoonful of curry-powder. Mix well, and add by degrees half a pint of veal stock with two ounces of butter, and flour sufficient to thicken. When the mixture has simmered from ten to fifteen minutes, add, carefully stirring, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and let it simmer a few minutes longer. Have ready sliced half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, lay them in the curry sauce long enough to get quite hot, then serve both together on a dish. Time, half an hoirr to prep;ire ; eight or ten minutes to boil eggs. Sufficient, tw eggs for each person. Eggs, Devilled. Cut four hard-boiled eggs into halves, remove the yolks without breaking the whites; mix the yolks with a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a little cayenne pepper and salt, and fiU the white-cups with it ; set them to stand, by cutting off the pointed tip, on a dish, surround them with small cress and finely-cut lettuce. Time, fifteen minutes to boU eggs. Eggs, Dished. Take a strong eaxthem or a metal dish. Butter the inside well. Break into it, without damaging the yolks, as many eggs as it will hold without their lying one upon the other. On the top of each drop pepper, salt, and a httle bit of butter. Set them into the oven of your stove, or in an American oven before the fire; watch their progress, and as soon as the butter is all melted, and the whites well set, serve. The heat of the dish will cook them a little more after they are taken from the oven. Eggs so done are often preferable to fried eggs. They are free from the tough brown imder-surfaoe to which the latter are liable, which also is indigestible, even when it is rather crisp than homy. Eggs (en ]Marinade). Mix equal quantities of water and good veal gravj', two tablespoonfuls of each, - vith a tea-spoonful of vinegar and a seasoning of pepper and salt ; put it into a stewpan, and stir in gradually two well-beaten yolks of eggs. When it thickens, and before it boils, have ready half a dozen nicely-poached eggs, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with parsley. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Sufficient for three persons. EGG ( 200 ) EGG Eggs (Fari is). Remove the shells careftilly from six hard-boiled egg-s, and prepare a forcemeat with the following ingredients : ? Pound together two ounces of ham, one ounce of anchovies, the same of veal and fat bacon, salt, cayenne, and mace to taste, with a teaspoonful of minced sweet herbs,_ and one of parsley. Cover the eggs with this forcemeat, roU them in beaten egg, and sprinkle breadcrumbs lightly over all. Fry them of a pale brown or golden colour, or the eggs may be put into the oven. Serve with gravy in the dish. Time : ten minutes to boil the eggs ; five to seven minutes to fry ; a quarter of an hour to bake. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs (en Suisse). Beat up six eggs, yolks and whites, add to them two or three young onions and some parsley skred very fine ; season with salt and pepper. Mix the above with equal quantities of melted butter and grated cheese, about two ounces of each, and fry slightly, finishing the upper side with a salamander or red-hot shovel. Time, six to eight miautes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for two or tlu-ee persons. Eggs, Forced. Make a forcemeat with the yolks of eight eggs boiled till hard, a quarter of a pound of butter, some finelychopped herbs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs soaked in milk. Beat all together and fill the whites from which the yolks have been removed ; then close them in their natural form and lay them into a wellbuttered pie-dish, throw the remaining forcemeat over them, and set the dish in a Dutch oven before a clear, brisk fii-e, for a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs, Fricasseed. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and stu- into it a little flour. Boil eight eggs hard, cut them, after taking off the shell, into quarters, add them to the butter ia the stc \?pan, throw over them a good quantity of shi-ed parsley, a little nutmeg and salt, and shake the pan roimd tiU the ingredients are well absorbed by the egg ; then throw in a small cupful of cream, shake the pan again, but do not break the eggs. When the sauce is thick- and fine, put the eggs on a dish, and serve with the sauce thrown over, and a garnish of lemon round the dish. Time : ten minutes to boil eggs ; ten minutes to prepare the fricassee. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Eggs, Fricasseed (another way). Boil eight eggs fifteen miautes, take off the shells and cut the white parts of them in two lengthwise. Preserve the yolks whole, and put them in the middle of a dish, cut the whites into fine strips, or any other shape Hked, and lay them round ; pour white sauce over, or a mixture of mustard and melted butter, and serve hot. Probable cost, Isi. Sufficient for four persons. Eggs, Fricasseed, White. Boil six eggs hard, and slice them, each egg into half a dozen slices. Make a sauce as follows : Chop some parsley, a piece of shallot, and a few mushrooms, all very finely ; put these iato a stewpan with two ounces of butter; add salt and pepper, and stew, but do not brown tiU quite done. Thicken with flour mixed with a small cupful of cream. Lay the slices of egg in; give the whole a boil, and serve. This fricassee may be varied by substituting a good, rich brown gravy for the cream. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, Is. 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or foiir persons. Eggs, Fried. The frying-pan should be scrupulously clean, or the white part of the egg will be spoiled. Drij ping, butter, or oil may be used. Break the eggs first into a cup, and slip each one into the pan as soon as it is hot. As the eggs fry raise their edges with a slice, give them a slight shake, and ladle a little of the butter over the yolk. In two or three minutes they will be done ; take them out -with the slice, pare off the rough edges, and draia from the greasy moisture. Serve on slices of bacon, or lay them in the middle of a dish with bacon or ham as a garnish. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. each. Allow two eggs for one person. Eggs, Fried (another way). Break the eggs into a pan of boiling fat, one by one, and fry them, taking care that the yolks do not harden. Serve them with white sauce or gravy, or with a forcemeat of sorrel. Eggs, Frothed. Mix the juice of a lemon with a table-spoonful of water, and beat up with it the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four. Sweeten to taste, and add a pinch of salt. Put the mixture into an omelet-pan and fry carefully. Have ready four whites of eggs whipped with a pound of fine sugar to a high froth, and flavoured with vanilla or lemon. Place the omelet on a dish, and heap the frothed egg over it. Brown it lightly in an oven or before the fire. Time to fry, about five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Eggs in Paper Cases. Make a seasoning with a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, one of green onions, a clove of garlic, some pepper, salt, and a cupfitl of fine bread-crumbs. Have ready some small paper cases ; dissolve some butter and paint them with a small brush till they are lined thickly with it, then nearly fill them with the seasoning. Break six eggs singly into a cup, and put one on the top of the crumbs in each case and cover with more. Bake in a gentle oven or boil over a very slow fire for a few minutes. As soon as the whites are set they are done. Ser -e in the cases. Probable cost, 9d. Eggs, Jumbled. Break four eggs into a ste imn with two ounces of butter and a seasoning of salt and pepper ; let them st t over a clear fire, and stir till the mixture b('comes rather solid ; then remove, and serve with or without a ragout of vegetables, celery, lettuce, spinach, sorrel, or asparagus tops. If neither be liked, send to table upon slices of hot buttered toast. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, without vegetables, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. EGG ( 201 ) EGG Jumbled (another way). Break six or"moro eggs into a basin, and beat them with a table-spoonful of gravy and a flavouring of pepper and salt. If wanted, very good minced truffles, mushrooms, ham, or tongue may be added. Put a piece of butter into a etewpan, pour in the eggs, and stir till they are Bufiiciently done. This is an exceedingly convenient and agreeable breakfast dish. It requires very little time to cook, and may be varied according to taste. It is usually served on toast hot and buttered. Time, about five minutes. AUow two eggs for each person. Eggs, Liaison of, for Thickening Sauces. When eggs are used for thickening great care is required to keep the sauce from boiling, and the least cessation from stirring during the heating process will spoil the whole contents of the saucepan. Slake a liaison as follows : Beat well the yolks of three eggs, and add to them three small wine-glassfuls of cream or two and a half glassfuls of milk. When well mixed, strain through a sieve. Eggs, Pickled. Eemove the shells from three or f oiu' dozen hard-boiled eggs ; do not break them, but arrange carefully in largemouthed jars. Boil one pint of vinegar, with allspice, ginger, and a couple of cloves of garlic. When the flavour of the spice is extracted, add another pint of -s-inegar, bring it to a boil, and pour scalding hot over the eggs. When cold, seal up the jars for a month. This will be found a cheap pickle when eggs are plentiful, and for its piquancy is much Uked. Eggs, Plover's. These eggs are much esteemed for their rich flavour, and the beautiful colour- of the white part, which is much used for decorating salads. When boiled hard they are eaten hot or cold; but with a good brown gi'avy or some bechamel sauce they make a dainty breakfast dish. Eggs, Poached. Put a pint of water into a stewpan, with four tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, and haK a tea-spoonful of salt ; place it over the fire, and while boiling break the eggs into it near the surface of the water, and let it boil gently about three minutes. Lay upon a dish a thin piece of toasted bread ; take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, and lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second, to drain the water from them ; then set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. Much depends upon the careful breaking and boiling of the eggs. If the yolk separates from the white, it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same tiling may happen through awkwardness in poaching. Again, the toast upon which the eggs are served may be buttered either with plain butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling, and poured over. To prevent the unsightly admixture of the yolk with the white, the following simple method is recommended : Use a large stewpan, nearly filled with boiling water; pour two table-spoonfuls of hot water into a saucer, and break the egg carefully in the centre of the saucer, then gently lift" it, and place it on the surface of the water in the stewpan ; the instant 14 the yolk sets, take out the saucer, and remove the egg with a slice to the dish required. Eggs, Poached (another way). Remove the skin from! a boiled or roast chicken, and jjound the meat in a mortar with two ounces of good fresh butter. Bind it with the beaten yolk of an egg, and put it in a stewpan by the side of the fire to get hot through. Have ready a slice of bread nicely fried in butter, and four or five eggs poached. When the chicken mixture is hot, place it on a dish with the eggs over it, and the sippets of fried bread with slices of grilled truffle arranged alternately as a garnish. Time, ten to twelve minutes ; to poach eggs, about three minutes and a haK. Suflicient for thi-ce or four persons. Eggs, Poached in Gravy. Take quite fresh eggs, break haK a dozen into separate tea-cups, and slip each very gently into a stewpan of boiling water, one pint in quantity, to which has been added a wine-glassful of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of salt, previously boiled, but set to cool. Put the stewpan over the fire, and as the eggs set, remove them with a slice into a large flat dish of cold water. When required for table, trim, drain, and warm them in a rich brown gravy. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. Suflicient for three persons. Eggs, Poached with Cream. Put half a gill of cream into a small saucepan, and season it with salt, pepper, and pounded sugar to taste. Let it warm gradually, and when ready to boU, remove it from the fire and stir in an ounce of butter ; keep moving the saucepan round until the butter is dissolved. Have ready four or five fi-esh eggs poached ; lay them on a dish, pour the sauce quickly over, and serve. Time, three to four minutes to poach the eggs. Probable cost, 9d. Allow two eggs for each person. Eggs, Potted. Pound the hard-boiled yolks of twelve eggs vith a blade of mace. Mix them to a paste with two ounces of good fresh butter, and season -srith two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of white pepper. Have ready some small pots, and chop the whites of the eggs very small. As the pots are being filled with the paste, strew in the chopped whites, and cover over the tops with clarified butter. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Eggs, Preserved. "V\Tiatever process be adopted, the eggs should always be newly laid. A solution of gum arable, if not too expensive, will be found to answer well. Smear the eggs thorougUy, and, when dry, cover with powdered charcoal, bran, or sawdust. They may also be preserved by plunging them ia a net in boiling water for about twenty seconds, and then packing in bran, &c. To keep a longer time, make a solution of quick-lime, salt, and cream of tartar, in the proportion of three pounds of Hme, one ounce of cream of tartar, and half a pound of salt, to about five or six quarts of boiling water. Wlien quite cold, cover the eggs with the solution, and throw a thick covering over the vessel. Salt, as in all cases of food preservation, EGG ( 202 ) EGG is good here. Cover tlie bottom of a box or barrel with salt, and lay in as many eggs us it -win take without touching each other. Throw in salt, finely powdered, enough to fill np the spaces between the eggs, and to make another layer or cover. Continue to place eggs and salt alternately, and let the top be at least an inch deep of salt ; press the salt down firmly, that no an- shall enter to the eggs, and cover with a cloth and a tight-fitting lid. Store in a dry, cool place. Eggs, Puree of. Boil seven eggs hard ; take off the whites, chop them very small and put them aside. Pound the yolks in a mortar ; add to them rather less than two ounces of good fresh butter, a little chopped parsley, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Bind with the beaten yolks of three uncooked eggs, and pass the mixture through a colander into the middle of a dish. Put the minced whites into a stewpan with half a pint of gravy, and stir till thickish, then pour it round the yolks, and garnish with sippets of bread, which should be brushed over with egg. Brown slightly, either in a Dutch oven or before the fire, and serve hot. Time, ton minutes to boil the eggs. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs, RagO&t of. Boil twelve eggs hard, and with a small knife carefully divide the whites lengthways into halves, taking care to keep the yolks whole and the whites unbroken. Place the yolks and whites in nice order in a dish, the hoUow parts of the whites uppermost, and fill them as high as possible with fried bread-crumbs. Now make a sauce as follows : Boil half an ounce of truffles and morels in three or four table-spoonfuls of water, and chop them very fine with a quarter of a pint of pickled mushrooms. Mince some parsley, boil it in the water saved from the truffles, add three more table-spoonfuls of water, a gill of red wine, a spoonfid of ketchup, a Httle grated nutmeg and mace, Math a bit of butter rolled in flour; boil all together, and throw the mixtiire over the eggs. Eggs, Savoilry . Put two ounces of butter into a stowpan, first rubbing the bottom of it ?with a clove of garlic. When the butter has become very hot, stir in flve eggs previously well beaten, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a grain of cayenne ; continue to stir quickly till done, and send to table on a hot dish. Time, about fom- minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two persons. Eggs, Scambled (American). This dish differs very little in its mode of preparation from our "mumbled" or "jumbled" eggs. Wb.en the pan has been well oiled with good butter, put into it as many eggs as it will hold separately, that each yolk may be entire. "When the whites have become slightly hard, stir from the bottom of the pan till done, adding a piece of butter, pepper, and salt. When done, the yolks should be separate from the whites although stirred together. Serve on hot buttered toast with anchovy sauce, potted meat, cheese, or fish spread over it first. The eggs should be of the consistency of butter. Tmie, five minutes. Eggs, Scotch. Prepare a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, grated ham, an anchovy pounded, and mixed spices. Roll five hard-boiled eggs, freed from their shells, first into beaten egg, and then into the forcemeat. Put some good dripping or lard into a frying-pan, and brown the eggs slightly in it, turning them round that all sides may be done alike. Serve with good rich gravy in a tiireen. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. Spun (CEufs en Filagramme). This preparation is used principally as a garnish for other sweet dishes. Prepare a syrup of sugar, white wine, and water, and beat up eight eggs with a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot. Boil the sjTup in a large stewpan, and when it is quite hot, force the mixture of egg and arrowroot through a colander into the boiling syrup. It will harden immediately, and must be taken up, drained for a httle time, and then piled on a dish. If eaten hot, serve at once. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Eggs, Steamed. Break half a dozen eggs into separate cups, and have ready a weU-buttered dish, into which each egg should be placed carefully. Cover the dish to prevent the heat fi'om escaping, and set it over a pan of boiling water, first putting small bits of butter lightly over the top of the eggs. When they are set sufficiently, sprinkle thera with a little salt, and serve with fried ham or sausages. Time, about four minutes to set. Eggs, Swan's (en Salade). Cut the eggs, when boiled hard {see'Eggs, Swan's, to Boil), in halves, pound the yolks with an ounce and a half of good fresh butter, and season with minced herbs or shallot, cayenne, and salt ; add two tea-spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and the same of chili vinegar. Fill the white halves with this mixtiare, and set them in a* bowl of prepared salad, or ornament a lobster or German salad with them. Eggs, Swan's, To Boil. Put the egg3 into quite boiling water and let them stay without boiling for twenty minutes. See that the water quite covers them, then boil slowly for a quarter of an hour. Let them rest in the water five minutes before removing them, and cover them up while cooling. Swan's eggs retain their heat a long time. They should not be cut until quite cold, and should then be divided into halves lengthwise. Eggs, Turkey's, To Dress. Choose those of the yoimg bird for cooking in the shell. They may bo known by their pale, almost white colour. The larger ones are excellent for poaching, and to serve in the composition of any dishes where eggs are required. Time, six minutes to boU, four to poach. Eggs, "Whisked. A common wire whisk, as represented in the engraving, is the best for this pirrpose. Break the eggs to be whisked separately (the yolks from the whites), and remove the speck from each one with a threepronged fork before commencing to whisk. Beat the yolks till they are light, and the whites till no hquid remains in the bowl : they should be a strong solid froth. Experience, however. ELD ( 203 ) ELE is the best guide for this culinary process. No time can be specified, as much depends on the gteadiness of the person manipulating. EGG WHISKS. Elder. The common elder-tree is found in all parts of Britain. Its berries and flowers are much used, as may be seen from the following recipes. We may mention, in addition, that an odorous water, used as a perfimie, is prepared by distilling the flowers. Elder-wine is specially in demand about Christmas-time. It is generally drunk hot or mulled. In some parts of Germany, the poorer classes use the berries as an ingredient in soup. Elderberry Ketchup, for Pish. Sauce. Pick a pint of ripe elderberries from the stalks, and put them into an earthen jar. Pour over them a pint of boiling vinegar, and let them remain in a cool oven all night. Strain the liquor from the berries without squeezing them, and put it into a saucepan with an oimce of shallots, a blade of mace, an inch of whole ginger, a tea-spoonful of cloves, and a teaspoonful of peppercorns. Boil for six or eight minutes, and bottle the ketchup, when cold, with the spices. Sufficient for one pint and a half of ketchup. Probable cost, Is. ELDERBERRY. Elder Brandy. Pick the berries when fully ripe. Have ready a press for drawing ojff the juice, and four hair-cloths somewhat broader than the press ; lay one above another, having a hair-cloth between each layer, which must be laid very thin and pressed a little at first, and then more, till the press be di-awn as close as possible. Now take out the berries, and press all the rest in like manner. Next take the pressed ben-ies, break out all the lumps, put them into an openheaded vessel, and add as much liquor as will just cover them. Let them infuse for seven or eight days, then put the juice first drawn into a cask proper for it to be kept in, and add two gallons of malt spirits to every twenty gallons of elder-juice, which wiU eifectuaUy preserve it from becoming sour for two years at least. A little sugar and a few cloves make a great improvement in the brandy. Elder-flower and Tarragon Vinegar. FiU a bottle with the elder-flowers, and pour upon them as much vinegar as they will take; let them rest for a fortnight, when the vinegar may be strained and put into bottles of smaller size. The fresh-gathered leaves of any sweet herb may be infused, and their flavour extracted in the same manner. Elder Rob. Extract the juice from some elderberries by putting the fruit into a jar and setting it in water to boil until the berries are soft. Put half a pound of good brown sugar with every pint of juice thus extracted, and boil the sugar and juice for a whole hour, skimming the liquid as it rises. Elder Tops, To Pickle. About six inches of the tops of young elder sj routs, if cut at the right time in the middle of April wiQ make a good pickle. The sprouts should be first blanched in boiling water, then pickled in vinegar, adding salt and white pepper. r Elder Wine. Take qmte ripe berries, and after stripping them from the stalks, steep them for five or six days in a tub of water, pressing them frequently during the time. Squeeze out the juice, and pass it through a fine sieve into the vessel in which it is to be boiled ; add to each gallon three pounds of good brown sugai and to every four gallons half a pound of ginger, two ounces of cloves, and an ounce or more of allspice. BoU for rather more than half an hour, then pour the wine into a tub or open cask, put with it some yeast on a piece of toast, and cover it over to work for f oiu- or five days, at the end of which time sldm and remove it to the cask to ferment. The vent-peg must be loose until the fermentation has ceased, when the cask may be tightly closed, and the wine, after two months' rest, will be good, but better a month or two later. A quart of brandy thrown into the cask when it is about to be sealed up wiU greatly improve the vdne. O Elder Wine (another way) . Boil twentyfive pounds of elderberries in eleven gallons of water for one hour, and add to them an ounce of allspice and two ounces of ginger. When boUed the full time, allow four pounds of sugar to a gallon: put the sugar into a tub, and throw the boiling liquid over it, straining and pressing all the juice from the fruit. Add a quarter of a pound of cream of tartar, and let the liquid stand in the same tub for two days ; then remove it to a cask, and cover the bunghole with a tile. Stir the liquid every alternate day, and fiU up as it wastes. When the fermentation has ceased, close up the hansel, and when it has rested four months, bottle for use. Brandy may be added when the cask is closed. Probable cost, OS. per gallon. Elecampane, or Candy Cake. Boil any quantity of loaf sugar to candy height, EMP ( 204 ) END and colooi- it with cochineal until it is of the proper tint. When it has sufficiently boiled it will assume a whitish appearance, and may then be poured out on a slab, and divided into squares. Empress Pudding. Take equal quantities of powdered sugar and butter, about six 'lunces of each. Turn the butter back to cream, tiix four weU-beaten yolks of eggs with it ; add the sugar, and when the whole is well mixed, throw in by degrees six ounces of flour, and beiit all thoroughly together. Bake in a brisk oven in small cup's ; only half fill them, as the batter will rise to the 'top in baking. Serve with cinnamon sauce. Tim ?, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for seven or eight i ersons. Empress Pudding (another way). Put enough fresh milk in a well-lined saucepan to pulp half a pound of rice. Let the rice soften over a very slow fire, and, when quite done, add two ounces of butter and stir till it is dissolved. Set the rice by to cool : when it has cooled, stir in three well-beaten eggs. Put a layer of rice into a dish lined with puff paste, place a layer of any kind of jam over it, and fill up the dish alternately with rice and jam. This pudding may be eaten cold, in which case it should be served with a boiled custard poured over it. Bako in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for six or more persons. Endcliffe Buns. Take eighteen ounces of floui-, six ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, half an ounce of baking-powder, one egg, six ounces of currants or sultana raisins, and half a pint of new milk. Kub the powder into the flom-, then rub in the butter, adding the sugar, currants, ,or raisins, the egg well beaten and the milk. Mix all together, and bake in tins in a rather hot oven, first sifting over the buns a little powdered sugar. Endive. This plant has long been cultivated as a garden vegetable. The cut-leaved or "curled" endive is preferred for the table in this country, but the dwarf white Bata ian endive is much more delicate and agreeable to the palate. The seed is usually sown in Britain from the middle of May to the end of June, and by a little care plants 'may bo kept fit for use almost all the winter. FRENCH ENDIVE. ENGLISH ENDIVE. Endive (French method). Take three heads of fine white endive, and after soaking in salt and water three hours, drain, and throw the leaves one by one into a stewpan, reserving one head, which boil whole ; add a pint of white wine, and stew, covered up closely, until tender. Put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour ; shake the pan till the butter has melted, ut do not let it boil. Stew a head of celery, cut into pieces thi-ee inches long, in a pint of water, with three or four- blades of mace, and some whole pepper tied in a bag, and, when tender, remove the green tops from a hundred of young asparagus ; chop up the rest (as much of it as will boil) , and add it to the celery in the saucepan, and let all simmer till the asparagus is done. Then lay the head of endive in the middle of a dish, take out the celery and grass with a slice, and place it round, strewing the leaves of endive over. Thiow the liquor of celery, with the sauce, into the stewpan, season with salt and nutmeg ; add the yolks of two eggs well beaten and some cream, keeping it stiiTed one way till it thickens, when pom* it over the endive, and send it hot to table. Time to boil endive, twelve to fifteen minutes ; celery, twenty minutes; and asparagus, fifteen minutes. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Endive, Dressed. There are many varieties of endive : the green curled sort is principally used for salads. Those who like the bitterness of this -s'egetable will find it, when cooked according to the recipes here given, a wholesome and agreeable change during the summer. The green leaves may be boiled like those of any other vegetable, only changing the water twice to take off the bitterness. After boiling till tender, throw the endive into cold water for ten minutes; then squeeze out the water, and when di-y chop and stew with butter, gravy, or, like spinach, beat it smooth, and servo round cutlets, or alone, with bread sippets as a garnish. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per head. Endive, Dressed,for Second Coiirse. Use salted water plentifully for this vegetable. Plunge the heads, after removing the green leaves, into it. When thoroughly free from gi'it and insect, blanch, drain dry, and finely chop them. Put a pint of good stock or veal gravy into a stewpan, with half a dozen heads so prepared ; add a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar and a little salt, and stew till tender. When ready to serve, thicken with butter and flour, and stir in a table-spoonful of lemonjuice, or add a little Espagnole sauce, and serve with a fricandeau of veal or poached eggs on the top. Time, ten minutes to boil ; about five minutes to sirmner in gravy. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or fom- persons. Endive, Stewed. Strip off the outer green leaves from half a dozen heads of endive. tFse salted water plentifully to dislodge the insects ; soak the heads in it, then di-ain, and boil them for fifteen miruites in water salted slightly. Have ready a stewpan with an oimce of butter, and when the endive has been squeezed dry and the butter melted, put it into the pan, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. Let all get thoroughly hot, and move the contents of the pan whale heating. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or four persons. Endive, with Veal Gravy. Strip off the outer leaves from half a dozen heads of I endive, and blanch the heads by throwing them into hot water and then into cold. Drain well. END ( 20.3 ) EVE and stew until tender in good gravy, just enough to cover them. Add veloulee sauce, or thicken with butter rolled in flour. Serve ' quite hot. Any highly- seasoned sauce would spoil the flavour- of this vegetable. A little I salt and sugar to the gravy is all that is ' necessary. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes. ! Probable cost, Id. to 2d. per head. Suflicient for three or four persons. , Endive, with Winter Salad. An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad may be ; made in winter principally by the aid of this ; plant. Only a little cress, celery, and beetroot will be necessary to form a striking contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which maj' be arranged {en houqiut) in the centre, or interspersed with the other materials through \ the bowl. Endive may be had good from i November till j\Iarch. English Stew. Stew for two hours three poimds of rump of beef, cut into small pieces and free from fat, in a quart of good \ stock or gravy. Season with a little cayenne and salt ; then add a dessert -spoonful of lemon- juice, the grated rind of one large lemon, a 1 table-spoonful of rice-flour, evenly mixed with j three table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and ; a tea-spoonful of soy. Stew for a quarter of an hour, when the dish will be ready to serve. This j dish may be improved by a glass or two of port or white wine, or with any well-flavoured j store sauce. It may be also garnished with sippets of fried bread, forcemeat balls, or yoimg , cucumbers. A good cook will know how to j vary English stew in twenty different ways, by I introducing mushrooms, green peas, rice, halfboiled new potatoes, spring caiTots, or currypowder. Suflicient for five or six persons. Epicurean Sauce. This is a good sauce for fish, added to melted butter or any kind of gravy, and is made by mixing with half a pint of walnut ketchup an equal quantity of chili vinegar, and adding a pint and a half of mushroom ketchup, and three table-spoonfuls of Indian soy. Shake the ingredients well together, and bottle for use. Probable cost, 2s. Erechtheum Pudding. Put one pint of fresh milk into a basin, and add to it two table-spoonfuls of fine sugar, a pinch of salt, \ and half a dozen drops of essence of ratafia. Beat six new-laid eggs two or three minutes, then mix them with the milk in the basin. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mould, which stand in a stewpan of water by the side of the fire. Do not let the water boil, nor let it reach higher than half up the mould. The water must be only hot enough to set the pudding, when it wiU be done. Serve, turned out of the mould, with a sauce, made as follows : Put ! two eggs, a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, j and two drops of ratafia in a stewpan; warm j slightly less than haH a minute will do this : then whisk to a firm froth, and pour it over the I pudding. Suflicient for two or three persons. ! Probable cost. Is. 3d. i Erfurt, or German Puddings. This \ is a favourite sweet dish in Germany, and t only requires a little care to be succesgfully I made. Prepare as follows : Make a batter of one pound of flour, three full desseit-spoonfuls of yeast, and a third of a pint of warm milk. Set it to rise before the fire, but not too near, or it will bo heavy. After it has well risen, knead it into a dough, with a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter, two ounces of finelysifted sugar, five eggs, a pinch of salt, and a little more warm milk. These ingredients should be first mixed with the milk, and then worked into the dough, and all should be well beaten till quite smooth. Set the mixture once more near the fire to rise, and when. fit, make it into little round balls; sprinkle each ball with powdered sugar, and put them into a stewpan, with a large piece of butter, and enough milk to cover them. When the milk gets hot the balls will swell, so plenty of space must be given, and on no account should they touch each other. When about twice theu- original size, put them into an oven to brown a few minutes will be suflicient. They may be sent to table with jam as a garaish, or served on a napkin, and with a tureen of hot custard flavoured with rum as an accompaniment. Time, three-quarters of an hour for the sponge to rise; to stew, fifteen minutes; and to bake, five to ten. Probable cost, Is. 34, Suflicient for eight or nine persons. Escaveeke Sauce. Pound three cloves of garlic in a mortar with half a dozen shallots, two dessert- spoonfuls of coriander- seed, a little salt, a small salt-spoon of pounded ginger, and the same of cayenne. Add the rind of a lemon minced very fine, and pour over all, when boiling hot, a pint of the best white wine vinegar. Bottle when cold, and cork tightly for use. Probable cost, lOd. Everlasting SyUabubs. Put into a rather deep pan two pints of good thick cream, a pint and a half of raisin wine, a pound of fine sugar, and the juice and grated rind of three lemons. Whisk all briskly, and fill glasses, taking off the top as it rises with a sHce. Ornament with harlequin sugar-plums. If kept in a cold place the everlasting syllabubg will keep eight or ten days. Probable cost, 4s. for this quantity. Everton Toffee. Put one'pound of brown sugar and two table- spoonfuls of water into a pan well rubbed with good fresh butter. Set it over a slow fire, and boil till the sugar has become a smooth, thick sjTup, then stir into it half a pound of butter, and boil for half an hour. When sufliciently boiled, it may be tested by dropping some on a plate, and if it dries hard and can be easily removed, the toffee is ready for flavouring. For this purpose, add twenty or thirty drops of essence of lemon. Pour the toft'ee into a wide, well-buttered dish. It shoujd be not less than half an inch thick. Time, one hour to make. Everton Toffee (another way). Get one pound of treacle, the same quantity of moist sugar, and half a pound of butter. Put them in a saucepan, large enough to allov of fast boiling over a clear fire. Put in the butter first, and rub it well over the bottom of the saucepan; then add the treacle and sugar. EVE ( 206 ) PAM stirring together gently with, a knife. After the mixture has boiled for about ten minutes, ascertain if it is done in the following way : Haive ready a basin of cold water, and drop a little into it from the point of a knife. If it is sufficiently done, when you take it from the ater it will be quite crisp. Now prepare a large shallow tin pan or dish, rubbed all over with butter to prevent its adhering, and into this pour the toffee from the saucepan to get cold,; when it can be easily removed. To keep it good, it should be excluded from the air. Eve's Puddings. Take equal quantities of flour, fresh butter, and sugar, six oimces of each ; turn the butter back to cream, and beat the sugar and flour into it. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat them till they are Light, and add the yolks first, then the whites, to the batter, and lastly, half a dozen pounded almonds, and the grated I'ind of a small lemon. Beat well, and fill small cups to about half; then set before the fire to rise. In five minutes they wiU have sufficiently risen, and may bo baked for half an hour. Exeter Pudding. Beat up seven eggs with six ounces of moist sugar and a quarter of a pint of rum. Take ten ounces of breadcrumbs, seven ounces of finely-shred suet, and four ounces of sago ; add them gradually to the egg-mixture, with the rind of a small lemon cut verj' delicately. Beat all together, and when readj butter a pudding-mould, cover the bottom of it with ratafias, and then throw in some of the mixture. Next, lay in slices of spongecake well spread with jam, and again the ratafias, filling up alternately with the mixture and slices of spongecake, but finishing with the mixture on the top. Bake in a rather quick oven. Make a sauce with a quarter of a pound of black currant jelly, warmed up with a couple of glasses of sherry. Throw it warm over the pudding when turned out of the mould, and serve hot. Time, an hour and a quarter to bake. Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Padge. Dissohe two ounces of butter in a gill of milk, and when warm, stir it into equal quantities of rye and brown flour, two ounces of each ; throw in a little salt, and mix into a firm paste. This cake is best baked on a griddle ; it should be turned frequently to prevent its being burnt. It will take nearly one hour to bake if made of the proper thickness, threequarters of an inch. Probable cost, 4d. Padge (Irish Recipe foe). Mix one pound of fine wheaten flour to a firm dough with half a pint of milk warmed sufficiently to dissolve three ounces of butter. Put salt to the flour, and stir the milk briskly into the middle of it. Mix to a stiff paste. Roll out on a pasteboard, and cut it into cakes threequarters of an inch thick. Bake on a griddle equally on both, sides for one hour. Probable cost, 7 d. Sufficient for six cakes. Pagadu Bradu. Take of spinach that has been well washed and drained, enough for a dish ; stew it over a slow fire until half done, then press out aU the moistui-e, and add to it the whole of a lobster cut into bits small ones, and seasoned with cayenne and salt to taste two table-spoonfuls of cui-rj -powder, and two ounces of butter. Stew till the spinach is quite tender, which will be in about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Paggots, Baked. Make a mincemeat of calf's liver, or, if more convenient, pig's liver and fresh fat pork. Chop vcrj' finely one pound and a haK of liver with haK a pound of fresh fat pork. Season the mince with onion, sage, thjTne, salt, and pepper. Steam it over boiling water, and throw oft' all fat. When cold, add a large cupful of bread-crumbs, and three well-beaten eggs ; mix all together thoroughly, fiavour with nutmeg, and make up into round balls which may be baked in a buttered dish with a small quantity of good gravy, or, as is often done, wrapjied separately in a piece of pig's caul. Either way they should be of a pale brown, and cooked very slowlj-. Time: to steam mincemeat, half an houi- ; to bake, until done a pale brown. Pairy Pancies. For this pretty, fanciful pastrj make first a good short crust (sec Crust, Short, Common). \Vhen veiy thinly and evenly rolled out, cut with a tin cutter, procured for the purpose, as many sheets of crust for the foundation of the pastry as are requii-ed ; then, with a round tm cutter of about an inch in diameter, and another of haK the si ie, make eight rings of crust, and carefully place two one of each size, the largest at the bottom on the four comers of the foundation previously foi-mcd. The rings should be brushed with white of egg to make them adhere. Bake in a slow oven, as the pastry should be of a pale tint. When cold, fill each of the four rounds with differently-coloured jams or jellies. The above may also be iced with sugar, or made of almond paste, and the rings coloured according to fancy,- and fiUed with whipped cream. Pamily Soup. Peel and slice two pounds of potatoes, two carrots, a turnip, and a middlesized onion. Put the onion into a frying-pan with two pounds of soup beef and half a pound of lean bacon also sliced; add a small cabbage well chopped, and fry till the meat is slightly browned. Drain from the fat, put the meat and sliced vegetables into a stewpan with two quarts of water, and add, after it has simmered one hour, two quarts more of water. Skim carefully before adding the water, which should be poured in by degrees. When the potatoes are done, rub them to a smooth pulp thi-ough a colander, and when the meat has stewed three hours remove it from the stewpan, and simmer the whole for some time longer. Strain, thicken with the potato, put the meat back cut up into small bits, and serve hot with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for twelve persons. Pamily Soup (another way). Put eight or ten pounds of leg of beef, the most fleshy PAN ( 207 ) PEN part, into a saucepan that will hold water in the proportion of one quart to everj pound of meiit. Throw in a small quantity of salt and make the ]X)t boil, and when the scum rises, clear it thoroughly off. Draw the pot aside and let the soup simmer gently throe hours, then put in all sorts of vegetables, three or four carrots, a couple of heads of celery, a small cabbage, or, if preferred, tomatoes, a bunch of herbs tied in muslin, some sliced onion fried, and, half an hour before the soup is ready, some turnip cut into small dice. If the meat be required for table, take it out when tender, which wiU be after it has stewed from four to five hours. The carrots and cabbage may be boiled whole and served with the meat. Strain the soup, and thicken with flour. Small pieces of the meat should be sent to table in the tirreen. For a small family, where so large a quantity is not reqxiired at once, this soup, made accordui gto the directions just given, will be fotmd equally good the second day if only heated and not boiled. Probable cost of beef, 8d. to 9d. per poiind. Panchonettes. Put a lining of good puff paste roimd some tartlet-pans, and fill with a custard. Make it as follows : Beat four eggs till they are Hght, stir into them equal quantities of sugar and butter, two ounces of each (the butter must be first turned back to cream), and three dessert-spoonfuls of flour. When thoroughly mixed, simmer in a well-lined saucepan until thick the mixture should not boil and flavour with lemon, bitter almonds, or any essence preferred. When baked, slip the fanchonettes out of the pans, and while they are cooling whisk the whites of two eggs to a froth, and stir into the froth two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, with which mixture smooth the tops of the tartlets. This icing must be set for five minutes in the oven, but care must be taken to prevent the tartlets from colouring. Send to table on a white napkin garnished with coloured jelly arranged between the tartlets and around them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Sufiicient to fill one dozen tartlets. Parferl Paste. Break an egg into a basin, and beat it well with a two-pronged fork, adding half a cup of water and a little salt. Stir the egg into eight ounces of fine flour ; it will form into flakes. This paste is used for soups, gravies, and ragouts. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 2 d. Sufiicient for three pints. Past-day Sauce. Use for this fish broth. Blend three table-spoonfuls of flour with four ounces of good butter, put it into a stewpan with about a pint and a half of the broth, and heat it tiU it thickens, but it should not boil. Boil in some more broth an onion sliced, a head of celery, a carrot, and some parsley, and when tender pour in the butter and stew all together. Any additional flavouring may be added, and+. if liked, a little lemon-juice or \'inegar this last should be white. Strain for iise. If a brown sauce be required, the flour and butter should be browned before the broth is added, and the vegetables fried brown in butter. Time, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Pat or Marro Pudding. Make a batter with five woU -beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of flour, another of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of sugar ; add a pound of suet, not chopped very fine, but quite free from sldn, and a pound of stoned raisins. Boil five hours in a buttered mould, and serve with sifted sugar over the top. Very rich. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pawn, Hashed. Stew half a dozen mushrooms and a shallot in a pint of good gravy made from the trimmings of venison, or the remains of mutton gravy. Season with pepper and salt. Lay some nice slices of cold fawn in a stewpan with the gravy, let them get hot through, then add a tea-spoonful each of lemon- juice and sugar, and a glass of port wine. Let it stand for a few minutes by the side of the tire, and serve hot. Time, thirty minutes to stew mushrooms, &c., five minutes to warm the slices. Pawn, Roasted. The hind-quarter is the best, but a small fawn may be roasted whole, larded, stuffed, and trussed like a hare. Cover with a buttered paper, and baste until half done, then remove the larding and paper to dredge and baste till quite done. Serve with a sauce as follows : Take half a pint of mutton gravy, and simmer any of the venison trimmings in it; strain, and add a small pot of currant jelly, a table-spoonfiil of powdered sugar, and a large glass of port or claret. Serve hot in a tureen. Time to roast fawn, one hour and a half; to simmer gravy vith jelly, &c., five minutes. Pennel. Common fennel is a well-known biennial plant cidtivated in our gardens chiefly for its leaves, which are boiled, and served up with several kinds of fish, and especially with mackerel and salmon. Sometimes the leaves are employed to form a fish-sauce. The species of fennel known as sweet fennel is cultivated as a pot-herb in Italy and Portugal, of which countries it is a native. Pennel, Pickled. Fennel shoxild be tied into bunches, and put into a pan of boiling salted water, and when scalded enough, laid on a cloth tiU dry. When cold, fill glasses with the fennel, and cover with cold vinegar. Add PEN ( 208 ) FIG-. a little nutmeg and mace, and tie down with a bladder and leather to keep out the air. Time, three or four minutes. Fennel Sauce. Make some good melted butter in the proportion of a quarter of a poimd of butter, a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a wine-glassful of water. Blend the butter and flour together, reserving one ounce of the butter to stir in after it has thickened and been removed from the fire. Chop enough of fennel to fill a table-sj oon, and put it with the butter when it is on the point of boiling. Do not let it boil, but simmer for a minute or two, then remove, and stir in the remaining butter. Serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 4d. SuiScient for five or six mackerel. Ferrilletage. Press out all the moisture from one pound of good fresh butter ; break two ounces of it into bits, and blend them with one pound of fine wheaten flour ; moisten to a paste with two well-beaten yolks of eggs and a little water, the eggs and water being mixed together before being added to the flour. Put the paste on a board, and add the remainder of the butter ; fold the paste so that the butter may be quite enclosed. Dust flour over the board, and roll out thin ; then fold over, and put the paste by for a few minutes in a cool place. Proceed in the same manner, and again let it 8tand for a little time, when it will be fit for use. Probable cost, Is. 9d. for this quantity. Fieldfare. This is a bird of the thrush tribe, which pays an annual dsit to these islands, coming from the northern parts of Europe, where it exists in great numbers. It is small in size, its whole length being but ten inches. It makes its appearance about the beginning of November, affords some sport to youthful sportsmen at Christmas, and leaves us again about February or March. Fieldfare Pasties. Take half a dozen bu-ds fieldfares, snipes, woodcocks, quails, and young plovers draw them, and put the insides into a stewpan with a httle butter, fii-st taking out any grit from the gizzards. When they have steamed enough in the butter (they should not brown), take them out, and put the birds into the butter to brown lightly. Eemove them ; add a little more butter, and stir in three or fom- eggs well beaten vith a tea-cupful of milk. Have ready a forcemeat of veal, bacon, and caH's liver, in the proportion of one pound and a half of veal to half a pound of bacon, and the same of liver. Season with pepper, salt, and spice. Stir this mince into the stewpan, and when it is sufiiciently dressed, and thick enough, spread a layer over the bottom of a dish, and when a sweetbread is obtainable cut it, when boiled, into pieces the size of a small nutmeg, and mix these with it. The birds and their trails must now be laid on the forcemeat, with a sprinkling of stilt and pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon- juice ; the rest should be laid upon them, and a cover of paste over all. Bake in a good oven, and pour in a little rich gravy with a fimnel when done. Time, threequarters of an hour to one hour to bake. Probable cost: snipes, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the brace; woodcocks, 3s. each; quails. Is. to 2s. ; plovers, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the brace. Fieldfares, Roasted. These birds are trussed and roasted like a partridge. Wlien put before a bright fire, baste well with butter and flour, and froth nicely a few minutes before serving. Send to table hot on fried breadcrumbs, with a tureen of gravy, and another of bread sauce. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Fieldfares are seldom to be bought. Suflicient for a dish, four. Fife Pie. Take a nice young rabbit, skin and cut it into bits. Lay them in cold water to soak. Prepare a forcemeat of the hver, parboiled and minced, some bread-crumbs, a little fat bacon, and a seasoning of lemon-thyme, minced parsley, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Moisten with an egg, and make into balls. Cut one pound of bacon into thin slices ; di-ain the meat, sprinkle all with pejiper, salt, and nutmeg, and pack it, with the balls, closely into a dish. Pour in a tea-cupful of good gravy, and a small glass of white wine. Bake with a cover of puif paste. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., Avilhout wine. Suificient for five or six persons. Fig Pudding. Take equal quantities of flour and bread-crumbs, eight ounces of each, shred a pound of suet very finely, and cut up two pounds of figs into small bits ; mix these well together, and make into a stiff paste ?wdth two eggs which should be well beaten and only sufficient milk to make the paste firm, not wet. Put it into a buttered mould, press it closely together, and tie down with a cloth. Serve with wine sauce or melted butter. Time, three hom-s to boil. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for seven or more persons. Fig Pudding (another way) . This pudding is often made hke a roly-jjoly jam. pudding [see lloly-poly Jam Pudding), thus: lix thi'ee-quarters of a pound of flour and six ounces of finely-chopped suet into a smooth paste with milk. Cut the figs about one pound into bits, and put them over the paste, which should be rolled out half an inch thick. When doubled over, see that the paste is firmly closed at the ends, and tie in a floured cloth to boil. Time, nearly two hoars. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Figs, Green, Compote of. BoU one pound of sugar with a pint and a half of water and the rind of half a lemon ; take off the scum as it appears, and when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, put in one pint and a half of gi-een figs, and simmer them very slowly till tender, adding a little port wine or lemon-juice. Remove the figs, and boil the sjTup up quickly ; pour it over the figs, and when cold serve on a glass dish. Time, two to three houi-s to stew the figs. Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. per dozen. Figs, Preserved. Take small green figs, wipe, and put them into cold water; do this in the morning, and the next day simmer them tiU tender. Put them into cold water for three days, changing the water each day. Try if they are soft enough for a pin's head to pierce them FIG ( 209 ) FIS easily ; if so, weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar. Clarify the sugar, and put the figs into it while hot. Simmer for ten or twelve minutes. In a couple of days add the thin rind of a lemon and a little ginger to the syrup, and heat the figs in it again ; do tliis twice, divide_the figs into halves, and put them, in their sp-up, into pots. Tie down closely. Figs, Stewed. Dissolve in an enamelled saucepan a quarter of a pound of fine sugar with a pint of cold water ; add to it anything to flavoiu- orange, lemon, or almond, if preferred. Put into this one pound of the best Tm'key figs, let them have very little heat, so that they may swell ; if properly done this compote will be excellent, but the figs must be stewed very slowly, and when tender, a glass or two of port wine and a little lemon-juice should be added. "When eaten hot, serve with a border of rice ; when cold, send to table on a glass dish. The thin rind of a large lemon boiled with the figs will flavour this dish well. Time, about two houi's and a half to stew gently. Findon or "Finnan" Haddocks. These haddocks are held in great esteem for their i eculiar and delicate flavour. The genuine Finnan may be known by its odoiu' and J-. t creamy yellow colom\ StrijD off the sldn, and broil before the fii-e or over a quick, clear one. Eub the fish over with butter, and serve hot. Some persons prefer to cut them in pieces and steam them in a basin of boiling water. Heat the basin first, throw boiling water on them, and cover closely with a plate ; if keirt on a hot stove, they will require from ten to fifteen minutes, and when di-ained, should be placed on a hot dish and rubbed over with butter. Serve hot. Excellent as a breakfast relish. Probable cost, from 6d. to Is. Findon, or "Finnan" Haddocks, Fried. Ptub butter or oil on both sides of the fisli, and put it into a frying-pan smeared with either. Shake the pan over a clear fire. In thr-ee or f om- minutes the fish will be sufficiently done. Serve hot, with a little more butter rubbed over. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. Finger Biscuits. Take six eggs, and divide the yolks from the whites. Beat up the yolks with half a pound of fine sugar ; mix for five minutes, and add the whites, well whipped, I with five ounces of flour. Flavom- with vanilla, I lemon, or orange-flower water. Make a pasteboard funnel, fill it with the paste, and press the biscuits through the aperture at the cz.-;-, I which should be cut to about threc-q_...,+iers j of an inch in diameter. Make the b'iscuits in ; the shape of a finger, and about thi-ee inches I long. Drop them on a baking-sheet in straight I lines. Sprinkle finely-sifted sugar over them, i and bake in a moderate oven. They should ! be a light yellow colour. Time, ten to fifteen : minutes to bake. Probable cost of this quanI tity, Is. Fish Cakes. Make a savoui-y gravy, by 1 boiling down the heads, tails, fins, and bones I of any fish, with water enough to cover them. ! Add onion, herbs, pepper, salt, and a very ' little mace. "With the meat, when well minced, mix a third part of the quantity of bread! crumbs, and a flavoming of the same kind as that used for gravy. Moisten with melted I butter, and bind with white of egg. Cover the 1 cake with raspings, and fry in butter tiU of a ] light brown. When the gravy has been strained I from the trinnnings, put it, with the cake, into I a stewpan, cover close, and stew gently for a ? quarter of an hour. "While the cake is beingfried turn a plate over it. Time, eight to ten minutes to fry. Fish Cakes (another way). Take the fish left from dinner while warm ; remove the skin and bones, and mix with mashed potatoes. Add pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and an ounce of butter, iloisten with an into a paste, and roll into balls ; then flatten and dip into (1 . Fry in butter or lard to a nice j brown. Time, three-quarters of an hour to I prepare. I Fish, Cold, To Re-dress. Put any cold fish turbot, brill, soles, whiting, or smelt cut small, into escallop-shells, with breadcrumbs and some good fish sauce oyster, lobster, or shrimp. Place the shells in a Dutch oven. They will when browned be excellent. Put a little butter on the top of each. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Fish, Croquettes of. Mince the remains of any cold fish, after clearing away the skin and bones ; make it very savoury. Mix with an cg a tea-spoonful of milk, and the same of flour, to bind all together, and roll into round balls, which should be brushed over with , and powdered with fine bread-criunbs. Fry to a nice brown in butter, and serve with gravy, made by boiling down the bones, fins, and tails with an onion. Add an anchovy and seasoning to taste. Probable cost of this quantity, exclusive of cold fish, 4d. Fish, Croquettes of (German). 3Iake a very savoury and piquant ragout of fish, dissolving in it enough gelatine to bind it when cold, and a small cr.pful of bread-crumbs. Cut into pieces, when cold, about the length and size of a finger, and roll them into sausages, to PIS (210) PIS "be brushed over with egg, and coated with a mixture of bread-crumbs and Parmesan cheese, or bread-crumbs alone, and then fried in butter. Garnish with parsley and any green pickle. Time, fry till brown. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of fish. Pish. Curry. Cut cod, haddock, sole, or salnioiv into neat fillets. If salted for a few hours the fish will be better and firmer. Drain, dry, and iry the fillets for five minutes. Fry also in butter two onions and a shallot cut small. Put the fish into a stewpan, nearly covering it with water, and stew fifteen minutes. Blend two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of cuiTy together; add these with the onions and shallot to the stewpan, and simmer another fifteen minutes. AVhon ready to serve, throw in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and send to table with rice as an accompaniment. Prohable cost, exclusive of fish, 6d. Pish Cutlets. Cutlets may be cut from almost any white fish ; they may be cooked or raw. Put a quantity of chopped herbs, a bit of shallot, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, into a stewpan with two ounces of butter. Stir in a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and as soon as the butter is melted remove from the fire to cool. Lay the seasoning over the eutlets thickly, and powder them well with fine bread-crumbs. They may be cooked before the fire, or in an oven on buttered pans. Have ready some green vegetables stewed in good broth, any seasonable ones cut into dice, silver button-onions, &c. Put the vegetables in the centre of the dish, and arrange the cutlets round. Time to stew vegetables, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of fish. Pish (en Matelote). Fish may be served en matelote either whole or divided. Trout, pike, carp, tench, eels, &c., are good cooked in this way. Put an oimce of butter into a stewpan, and brown a dozen button-onions that have been scalded. Put in the fish, and add a half pint of gravy or stock, the same of red wine, pepper, salt, allspice, a bay-leaf, and a carrot and turnip cut into slices. Take out the fish, thicken the gravj' -wdth flour and butter, and add mushrooms, the button-onions nicely browned, some oysters bearded and scalded, and small fish quenelles. Season to taste with anchovy, cayenne, and lemon- juice, and pour the gi'avy boiling hot over the fish. Time, three-quaxters of an hour. Pish, Essence of. Fry four large onions in rings, then take some soup maigre, stock, or water. Cut up two solos, two whitings, one carp, a pike, two eels, and put them in the liquid, with the onions, sweet herbs, cloves, mace, allspice, salt, and pepper. Boil steadily two hours, then strain the gravy till clear. Skim off all fat, and bottle. To be used as a sauce for fish gravy, or fish patties. Pish, Pat for Prying. Butter and lard are the materials mostly in use for this mode of cooking in England, but we would say, use oil in preference to either. On the continent, ?where nothing else than oil is used, fried dishes are more delicate, and in appearance superior to those cooked with any other fatty substance. Butter, lard, diipping, or oil may be used for the same purpose two or three times, if care be taken not to bum it dm-ing the frying, and carefully to strain it into clean pots or jars {see Fry, To.) Pish, Porcemeat for. Chop the remains of any shell-fish lobster, crab, &c. with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs ; add a little minced parsley, and the same quantity of bread-crumbs as of fish. Pound all in a mortar, with two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of pepper, and a flavouring of nutmeg. Stuff any white fish with this forcemeat, mixing it well with the beaten yolk of an egg. Pish Pricandelles. Pour nulk or wine on the crumb of a French roll, enough to soak it. Cut one pound of cooked or raw fish, without skin or bone, and a couple of anchovies, into small bits. Season with mace, cayenne, and nutmeg. Beat the yolks of two eggs with the roll, and then add the fish to the puree. Mix a Little cream, and warm it carefully. Have ready a buttered mould, fill it with the fish, and cover with bread-crumbs. Warm before the fire, and brown with a salamander or redhot shovel. Pish, Pried. Fish to be nicely fried should be wiped very dry, and floured before being put into the pan of boiling fat. Lard is best, if there be an objection to oil. Shake the pan gently until hot through. If you want the fish to look very nice, dip it into egg, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs before frying. Drain before the fire, and dish on a hot napkin. Time, according to size and quality. Flounders, five to ten minutes ; eels, about twenty. Pish, Fried (Jewish fashion). The Jews, like our continental neighbours, use oil for frying. Soyer gives the following excellent recipe for cooking fish : Lay one or more poimds of halibut in a dish, with salt over the top, and water not to cover the fish. Let it stay one hour for the salt to penetrate. Drain and drj' it ; then cut out the bone, and take off the fins. Divide the pieces into slices half an inch thick. Put a quarter of a pound of oil, butter, lard, or dripping into a frying-pan. Dip the fish into a batter, and fry till the pieces are of a nice colour, and all sides alike. When quite done, take them out vrith a slice, drain, and serve with any sauce liked. AU fish, especially those containing oil, are improved by this method the oil is absorbed by the batter. Pish Grenade. Take off the skin and scrape the meat irom two large whitings use a wooden spoon for the purpose and press it through a wire sieve. Scrape also two ounces of fat bacon, and pound them together in a moi-tar, with two ounces of butter and the beaten yolks of two eggs ; add, while pounding, two dessert-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a small bit of garlic, and a blade of mace, both crushed before being added to the rest. Bind PIS (211 ) PIS ?with the whites of two eggs. This forcemeat being ready, put it aside until requit-od. Cut out the bones from half a dozen red mullet do not injure the skin divide them into strips lengthwise, of an inch and a haK wide ; also do the same with a rather large sole, splitting the fish without breaking the skin. Stew a sweetbread, eight or ten bearded oysters, an artichoke bottom, and a couple of truffles minced, for about fifteen minutes in butter. Have ready a pan lined with slices of fat bacon ; let the slices lie close together, so that no part of the pan be uncovered; upon this place four diamond-shaped pieces of carrot along the centre, then cover the bacon with the strips of fish, and on these place a part of the forcemeat. The sweetbread must come next, to be again covered with the remainder of the forcemeat. Wet the top -with white of egg, cover with a buttered paper, and bake, with the lid of the pan closed for twenty minutes. Pish, Jelly for. Boil down a skate, cowheel, or calf's foot, irntU it will jelly. Add three quarts of water, and then a good slice of ham without fat, three blades of mace, part of the rind of a lemon, and a stick of horse-radish. Strain, and when cold, take o?E the fat, and boil the mixture up without stirring, putting in a glass of sherry and four or five eggs. After the boiling let it stand haK an hour, then pour it j through a sieve and cloth. It will be fit for use when cold, and should be laid over the fish roughly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Pish. Kedgeree. Pick some cooked salmon, turbot, or other fish into flakes, and boil a cupful of rice in good white broth ; add the fish to the rice, and when hot through, stir in an egg, and serve. Time, thirty minutes to boil rice. Probable cost, exclusive of fish, 4d. Pish Ketchup. Pick out the meat from a lobster; get one that is fiill of spawn, and weighs about three pounds. Pound the coral and add it to the meat, with a smaU tea-spoonful of cayenne, salt, and some part of a bottle of sherrj'. When well pounded in a mortar together, add the remainder of the wine, or as much as is necessary. If put into bottles, and the air is kept out of them, the ketchup will keep good for twelve months, and any quantity may be used heated in melted butter. From three to f om- table-spoonfuls will be enough for a large tureen of melted butter. Pish Klbsse. Clear half a pound of uncooked fish from skin and bone, and mince two ounces of fat bacon ; blend them together with a seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley. Brown a shallot, minced finely in a stewpan, with three ounces of butter, and then stir in and mi.x over the fire for a few i Jnutes three ounces of bread-crumbs, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and a couple of eggs. When cold, mix this, and the fish, &c., together. Make into kliisse with a spoon, and boil for ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of fish. Pish Maigre, To dress. Take boiling water, but only just enough to cover .the fish, and let it simmer steadily till the fish is done, adding a tea-spoonful each of allspice and black pepper, and two middle-sized onions, each stuck with two cloves. With the liquor, when strained, put as much flour and butter as will make it of the consistency of milk ; flavour with wine, and any sauce mushroom or anchovy and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. To each pint of sauce put a glass of wine, half the quantity of ketchup, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and a few grains of cayenne. This sauce, after it has simmered a few minutes, should be strained over the fish, which must be served on a deep dish. Garnish with sippets of bread, fried. Time, from ten to twenty minutes to simmer, according to the size of the fish. Pish, Marinade for. Fry in butter half a dozen shallots, three middle-sized onions, a couple of carrots, a bunch of parsley, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a clove of garlic. Cut the carrots, shallots, and onions small; pick and mince the herbs. When they have simmered in the butter five or six minutes, pour in any light wine or cider about three pints and add a dessert-spoonful of peppercorns, the same of allspice, and two cloves. When the mixture has simmered for one hour and a half, strain for use. Insipid fish boiled in this marinade wiH acquire a flavour of a very agreeable kind, and the bones of small fish are rendered soft and eatable if gently stewed in it. Lai-ge fish should be cut into steaks; and if, after use, the marinade be carefully strained, it will serve several times. The expense, too, may be much lessened by using beer or vinegar, with the addition of a glass of soy, and the same of essence of anchovy and ketchup. Pish, Panada for. Put one ounce of butter, and rather less than two gills of water into a saucepan, boil them together, and add, bydegrees, a quarter of a pound of flour ; stir imtil the mixture is smooth, but do not let it bum. When off the fire, mix with it the yolks of three weU-beaten eggs. When cold, the panada is fit for use. Pish Pate. Pick from the shell of a crab all that is good ; pound it in a mortar with a small quantity of bread-crumbs, and a seasoning of white pepper, cayenne, salt, and nutmeg ; add a verj- little gravy, which thicken with butter rolled in flour. Make it hot, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Have ready a w aU of mashed potatoes round the inner rim of a flat dish ; let it be two and a half inches high. Smooth and ornament it with leaves, flowers, or according to taste ; this can be done with a tin-cutter, and if egged and browned in the oven wiU have a ver - pretty appearance. Fill the centre with the fricassee, and brown with a salamander. Small patties may be made, and filled with this fricassee. Time, one hour to prepare potatoes. Suificient, one pound for three persons. Pish, Pickled. Any boiled fish may be kept good for another meal by simply inixing equal quantities of the water in which it was boiled and vinegar, together with an onion sliced, some fresh fennel, pepper, and salt. Put the fish into a deep dish, and throw the pickle PIS (212) PIS over it. Baste frequently, that it may be well moistened. It will keep good several days in cold weather. Time, two or three days. Pish, Pickled (another way). Make a pickle of boiling water and salt, strong enough to bear an egg. Plunge the fish to be pickled into it. Let the fish be weU cleaned and trimmed, but the scales must not be removed, and there must be only just enough of the pickle to cover it. Be careful not to boU too much. Drain by placing it on a slanting board; and when cold pack it close, and fill the vessel with equal parts of the liquor the salmon or other fish was boUed in, and the best vinegar. Fill up again next day, and close the vessel. Pish Pie. Fish pies are best made with cooked fish. Take tui-bot, salmon, brUl, haddock, trout, or any kind of fish ; take off the skin and remove the bones. Cut them into large scollops, cover the bottom of the dish with bechamel sauce, and on this place the fish in layers, seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, shallot, parsley, and hard-boiled eggs; throw in a little more sauce, and fill up with the fish and seasoning. Cover with puff paste. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Pish Pie (another way). Take flounders, clean and dry them well in a cloth, boil, and separate the fish from the bones. Boil the bones in a saucepan with a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled, a bit of parsley, lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. When reduced to the quantity required for gravy, make a crust and line a pie-dish. Put some bits of .butter in the bottom of the dish, then a layer of fish, strew chopped parsley, and sprinkle with flour, pepper, and salt. Proceed until the dish is full, pour in the gravy, and bake with a top crust. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Pish, Pink Sauce for. Soak for fortyeight hours in one quart of the best vinegar and half a pint of port wine, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, and six cloves of garlic ; add and mix one table-spoonful of walnut-ketchup, and a double quantity of anchovy liquor ; strain, and put it into bottles for use. It should be stirred often during the forty-eight houi-s, and the bottles used should not hold more than half a pint each. Pish Pudding. Pound the flesh of two raw haddocks, cleared from skin and bone, in a mortar, pass it through a sieve, mixing a very little good gravy with it. Pound also an onion, a little parsley, a few bread-crumbs, and a quarter of a pound of veal suet ; moisten with a couple of eggs, and season with pepper and salt. Beat these ingredients well into the pounded fish. When well mixed, boil the pudding in a mould, and send to table with a rich brown sauce. Eel pudding, with the addition of oysters, is excellent. It may be boUed in paste, and served with a sauce in the dish, or in a mould with sauce in a tiu-een. Time, one hour to boU. Probable cost, !.?, each. Pish Pudding, Plain. Lino a puddingtasin with ordinary pudding paste ; cut a pound of cod, or any other fish liked, into pieces, season Avith salt, poppur, a very httle chopped parsley, and onion ; spiinkle a httle fioui-, and tluow m about a quarter of a pint of water ; add fish sauce to taste. Serve hot. Time, one hour to boil. Sutficient for two persons. Pish Ragout in Scallop Shells. Dissolve a piece of butter in a stewjmn, and put into it any uncooked fish, weU cleared from skin and bone, and cut into small dice, but not mashed; add salt and lemon- juice, and stew very gently till done ; then have ready a sauce composed of the following ingredients : Some good gravy, a glassful of white wine, a little cayenne pepper, grated lemon-peel, ginger, and nutmeg. Thicken the sauce with floui- and butter, and stir till quite thick; then put in the fish, and stii- in the yolks of three eggs and a little sardine butter. Put this ragout into scallop-shells with a covering of bread-crumbs and Parmesan cheese. Pour a little oiled butter over and bake to a pale brown. Time, ten minutes to bake. Pish Rechauffe. Take any fish, cooked, free from skin and bones, flake it, and to every pound add half a pint of cream, of Harvey sauce, mushroom ketchup, essence of anchovy, and mustard, one table-spooirful of each. Roll a little flour- to thicken in butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put the fish into a stewpan over a gentle fire, and when hot throw it up into a dish ; cover with breadcrumbs, and baste with butter for a few minutes while it is before the fire. Bro%vn with a salamander, or raise a wall of mashed potatoes roxmd the dish, two and a haK inches high, and place the ragout in the centre. Pike, cod, turbot, soles, and liaddock do well for this dish. Pish, Rissoles of. To any quantity or kind of cold cooked fish, weighed after the bones and skin have been removed, add a third part of grated bread-crumbs, a finely-minced boiled onion, some cold melted butter, and the yolks of two eggs ; season with pepper and salt. Make puff paste, roU it thin, and cut it into squares of two inches. Place about a tea-spoonful of the mince on each square, and fold over with paste. Wet the edges of the paste, before closing them, that they may adhere, and fry in boiling lard, first egging and covering the rissoles with bread-crumbs. Serve diy. Garnish, with fried parsley. Time, fifteen minutes to ivy. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the fish. Pish Salad. This consists of cold fish of any kind, hard-boiled eggs cut small, pickled gherkins, or any other green pickle. Oysters or shrimps may be added to the other fish, which should be separated neatly into flakes, and the whole should be moistened with a salad cream. Garnish with slices of lemon and some parsley. Pish Sandwiches. Cut bread and butter as for other sandwiches, place thin scollops of any fish on the slices, and instead of mustard, use Tartar sauce. Put a layer of finely-sliced lettuce on the top of the sauce, and cover with bread and butter. Serve cut into squares. Thm slices of hard-boiled eggs may be added, but fish mate good sandwiches alone if weU seasoned. FIS (213 ) FIS Fish Sauce. To a quart of the best vinegar add an ounce and a half of cayenne pepper, two or three shallots, a few shi-eds of garlic, and two table-spoonfuls each of walnut ketchup iind soy. To be kept ia a large bottle, and well shaken every day. At the end of a fortnight divide the sauce, and keep it well sealed in small bottles. Use as required. It wiU be fit for use in about three weeks. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. Fish, Sauce for Boiled. Take some of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and simmer in it for a quarter of an hour an onion, an anchovy, and a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup ; add a pint of good veal gravy, strain, and thicken with butter and fioui\ Two table-spoonfuls of the hsh broth will be enough for this quantity. Probable cost, 4d. Fish Sauce, without Butter. Boil down a table-spoonful of horse-radish, an onion, four cloves, and two blades of mace pounded, in half a pint of water and a quarter of a pint of good vinegar. When the onion is soft, mince it with a couple of anchovies, and stir it into the sauce, adding a tea-spoonful of salt, and half the quantity of black pepper. Mix the beaten yolks of thi-ee eggs (which should be first strained) into the sauce. Do this gradually, and throw the sauce from the pan to a basin, and then toss it over the fire till it is thick enough to serve. Time to boil the sauce, half an hour ; to thicken with eggs, five minutes. Fish Scallop. Take half a pound of any cold fish ; weigh it when the bones and skia have been removed. Put it into a stewpan, with walnut ketchup and made mustard, half a tea-spoonful of each, and half a table -spoonful of anchovy sauce, mixed first with half a pint of cream and then with the fish. Heat aU together, but it should not boil. Fill a dish or put into scallop shells ; cover vith breadcrumbs, and place butter in small lumps over the top. Brown in the oven, or use a salamander. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the fish. Fish Soup. Slice two middle-sized onions, fry them of a light brown in butter, and fry also three pounds of eels they should not be skinned. When just browned (five minutes win do them), add three quarts of boUing water, and while boiling skim carefully. Throw in allspice and black pepper, two drachms, half an ounce of the leaves of lemon, thyme, and winter savourj' mixed, and a good bunch of parsley (aU green) . When the soup has boiled slowly about two hours, during which time it should have been well skimmed, strain and thicken. Melt three ounces of butter, and stir into it as much flour as will absorb the butter. WTien quite dry, pour some of the soup to it and stir until smooth ; then add the remainder by degrees, and simmer altogether for a few minutes, when the soup should bo strained into a clean saucepan over neatly-cut pieces of fish, such as soles, eels, plaice, flounder, skate, &c., all fried, and forcemeat balls. Keep hot, and serve in about ton minutes after the soup has been poured over the fish. Good fish soup may be made with a skate, a flounder, and a couple of small eels cut into pieces, and fried in butter with an onion sliced, then boUed with half a gallon of water to a jeUy, and flavoured with salt and pepper. This stock will keep several days in cold weather ; add requLred water, &c. Fish Soup (another way). Boil down the trumnings and bones of any fish intended for this soup ; put them, with three pints of fish stock, into a saucepan, and add three middlesized onions halved, two lemons sliced, and the rind of one grated, a bunch of parsley, and some chervil. When well stewed, strain through a jamis. Have ready fillets of fish, about six pounds of sole, carp, or perch, and when fried, put them into the soup. Season it with a teaspoonful of salt and haK the quantity of mace and cayenne mixed ; and put into the soup six ounces of butter rolled in flour, and a couple of glasses of white wine. Simmer ten minutes, and serve with quenelles of fish. Time, one hour to stew trimmings. Sufficient for six persons. Fish Soup (another way). Cut in pieces a skate, a fiounder, and two small eels ; fry them in butter a rich brown ; cover with water ; add an onion stuck with cloves, three carrots, three turnips, a head of celery, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. BoU to a jelly. This stock will keep two days ; add reqiured quantity of water. Fish Soup, Brown. Proceed as for white soup {see Fish Soup, White), leaving out the cream, and substituting a browning of butter, sliced onion, and flour. Toast also some thin slices of bread let them be a dark brown ; put them into the tureen with the eggs, nicely fried in butter. Season with salt and black pei per. Time, one hour to simmer. Sufficient, half a pint for each person. Fish Soup Quenelles. Pick out the meat from a lobster, and pound it, together with three ounces of butter. Season with salt and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of mace and cayenne pepper mixed together ; blend the meat to a l)aste with the yolk of a raw egg, and add while mixing the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs. Mould in a tea-spoon and poach the quenelles f for two or three minutes, or fry in butter a i light brown before they are put in the soup. When used as an entree, or breakfast dish, serve with a good gravy, after being boiled or j fried in butter. Time, ten minutes to fry for ( entree. X, Fish Soup, White. Clean and trim any kind of fish fresh or salt water. Boil the trimmings with a head of celery, a small quantity of parsley, two onions, a bay-leaf, and five or six cloves. Use water, and cover the saucepan closely. When the contents have boiled one hour, add as much more water as will be required to make the soup. Strain it, and stir in a cup of cream. Season with salt and white pepper. Lay in the tm-een some eggs, nicelyfried in butter; aUow one for each person. Pour the soup over, and serve with toasted bread. Sufficient, half a pint for each person. Fish Soup, with Potatoes. Have ready the fish broth, made as directed for fish FIS (214) FLA soup. When strained, grate a numlier of potatoes foiir pounds of good mealy ones will thicken two quarts of broth add these with some well-beatem. . eggs and a large cup of cream. Flavour with salt and nutmeg. If preferred, milk may bo substituted for some of the broth, and the cream may be omitted. Serve with klosse or toasted bread. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for eight persons. Fish. Stock. Cleanse well from the slime, but do not skin, two pounds of eels ; cut them into pieces ; also, two pounds of any river fish * carp, trout, &c. and one pound of skate. Cover I these with water, and let them stew gently for 1 four hours, with an onion stuck with cloves, an anchovy, and about an ounce of salt. Strain for use, when the stock may be enriched with butter to suit the requii-ed taste. Fish. Stock, Brown. Cut in pieces a skate, a flounder, and two small eels. Fry them in butter a rich brown. Cover with water; add an onion stuck with cloves, three carrots, three turnips, a head of celery, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Boil to a jelly. This stock will keep two days. Strain for use. Time, two hours to boil. Fish, To Boil. The result of modem investigation in the culinary department proves that fish to be boiled should be plunged at once into boiling water, and not subjected to the slow cold process, whereby the nutritious juices are extracted. To ascertain if the fish so treated is done, raise the thick part of the fish ; if it separates from the bone easily it is quite ready for serving. Fish, To Broil. Make a clear fire. A little salt thrown in will check smoke. Next see that the gridiron is well rubbed with grease (suet is best for the purpose), and that it is hot before the fish is laid upon it ; turn with tongs a knife is apt to break the fish and remove as soon as done: the time must be regulated by the size and quality of the fish. A mackerel will take ten minutes; a small whiting, five minutes. Fish, To Caveach. Salmon or cod may be done in this way. If cod, bone and slice the tail part; sprinkle with salt; dry well, and fry a nice brown. Make a pickle of vinegar, peppercorns, mace, a few cloves, and bayleaves; boil tUl the flavour is extracted, then put by to cool. Cut a couple of small onions into slices, lay them over and between the fish ; add a cupful of salad-oil to the vinegar, and pour over the fish, which should be covered. Serve in the middle of a dish, with a salad round it. Time to fry cod, ten to twelve minutes. Fish, To Cook, in Oven. Clean and trim any small fish ; put them into a deep pan, with a gill of, vinegar, half a pint of melted butter, and two onions chopped small ; lay in the fish with a seasoning of two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of i epper. Bake, basting frequently mth the sauce. Serve with the sauce in the dish. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Sufficient for six pounds of fish. Fish, To Fry. The great excellence of fried fish consists in its freedom from grease, and to attain perfection the cook must not at first be sparing of it. Put plenty of grease into the pan, and get it at a proper heat before the fish is put in. It should be boiling hot, but not bubbling, and the fish quite covered with it. Fry of a delicate brown, and drain before the fire on an inverted sieve. Get the fish in a proper state ; let it be qiiite dry, dredge it with flour, brush with egg, and strew well with bread-cnunbs. Use oil, butter, lard, or dripping {see also Fry, To.) Fish (vol-au-vont) . Make a pufit paste; roll it out about one inch and a quarter thick, and then cut it to the desired size with a tin-cutter. Make an incision aU round, an inch from the edge, with a small sharp knife, or better still v ith a tin-cutter, if one of the size be at hand. Bake on a tin pan in a, quick oven. When done, nicely egged over, and of a pale brown colour, cut out the centre paste without breaking the edge, and fill the vacant place with a fricassee of fish, oysters, lobster, &c. Serve the vol-au-vent on a folded, napkin. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, puff paste. Is. 6d. per pound. Fish and Oyster Pie. Make a seasoning of bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley chopped fine. Lay any remains of cold fish into a pie-dish ; let them bo neatly cut into scollops, and cleared from all skin and bone ; sprinkle with pepper and salt. Biake a layer of oysters, and cover with the seasoning, FiU up the dish with alternate layers of fish, oysters, and seasoning. Cover with bars of puif paste, and bake, pouring in melted butter dissolved with the liquor of the oysters. Time, from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Fisherman's Soup. Make a soup according to the following recipe, by which means the smallest fry may be utilised : Take all the fish caught in a day's angling carp, dace, roach, perch, &c. Wash them in salt and water, and put them in a stewpan with a tomato, a leek, an onion, and two carrots sliced, a himch of sweet herbs, and enough water to cover them. When boiled to a pulp, strain, and throw in as much more water as will be wanted for the soup, and boil another hour. When ready to serve, put two turnips and a head of celery, previously boiled and cui, into small pieces, into the tureen, and flavour with a tea-spoonful each of soy and Chili vinegar. Flan (a la Caleb Balderstone). Take good puff paste that has been set in a cool place for two or three hours, and line with it a fluted flanmould, then lay a white paper as a lining for the crust, and fill the mould with bran to keep it in proper shape. Vandyke the edge, and mark the Vandykes to imitate leaves. The oven should be hot to crisp the paste well, and the mould should have a movable bottom to take away the bran and paper. FiQ mth any fruit (preserved) gooseberry, cheiTy, apples, PLA (216) FLO apricots, or pears. Or the movld may be filled with frangipane, flavoured with almonds blanched, chopped small, and stirred into the cream. name Cake (a German supper dish). Choose a flat spongecake. Soak it with arrack or brandy, and set fire to it as it is being carried to table. Slices of spongecake piled closely together, will do equally well. Flame Pudding. Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, and stir into it equal quantities of flour and finely-sifted sugar, about two ounces of each. Add the beaten yolks of five eggs, and the whites whisked to a stiff froth. Thicken the whole with the crumbs of a stale spongecake, and mix weE. The addition of a little gTated lemon-peel, or an ounce and a half of pounded almonds, is a great improvement. Boil in a buttered mould, and serve immediately, or the pudding will fall. A small glass of brandy or rum should be put in the middle, and some should be thrown over the sides of the pudding. Serve directly the brandy is Kt. Time, one hour to boU. Probable cost. Is. 2d., exclusive of brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Flead Crust. Mix one pound of flour and seven ounces of flead, finely shred, into a paste use cold water and beat it with a rolling-pin untU quite smooth. Eoll out the paste, and put on it two ounces of butter in small bits. Fold over, and roll out for use. Flead of mutton or lamb, if shred fine, and well cleared from skin, makes a lighter pudding than suet. A little salt should be added to the flour before mLxing. Fleisch. Minuten. Cut neat slices of veal from the fillet. Let them be very thin, and about four inches in length. Lay them in a deep dish, with a seasoning of pepper and salt, and half a pint of white wine. When they have lain three hours, put them, well dredged with floiir, into a stcwpan of melted butter, and add a little more wine, the juice of a lemon, and as much stock as will cover them. Simmer, with the lid closely fitted down, for five minutes only. Serve at once. Flemish. Cream. Put a pint of hot water on half an ounce of the best isinglass. When it has dissolved, mix it with a quarter of a pint of cream and a glass of brandy, and whisk it into a light froth. Colour with currant jelly. Put it into a mould. Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of brandy. Florentine of Oranges and Apples. Take one pound of golden pippins ; scoop and pare them ; throw them into cold water. Have ready over the fire one pint of water, into which put half a pound of lump sugar ; boil and skim ; then put in the pippins and stew till clear ; do not let them break. When cold, place them in a pie-dish with two table-spoonfuls of orange (Seville) marmalade, and a little lemon-peel. Cover with puff paste. Time, stew till tender. Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. Floating Island, Into three-quarters of a pint of cream put sugar to make it very sweet, and the juice and rind of a lemon grated. Beat it for ten minutes. Cut French rolls into thin slices, and lay them on a round dish on the top of the cream. On this put a layer of FLOATING ISLAND. apricot or currant jam, and some more slices of roll. Pile up on this, very high, a whip made of damson jam, and the whites of four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruit or sweetmeats. Time, one hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost, 3s. O Floster. This American cooling drink is composed of the following ingredients, mixed A -ith a bottle of iced soda-water : An ounce of sugar, three slices of a lemon, six peach leaves, a gQl of sherry, and half a gill of noyeau. Put into the bowl a good-sized piece of ice. Flounders (au Gratin). Cut up parsley, shallot, and small button-mushrooms, very finely. Fry them in butter, with a seasoning FLOUMDEES. of salt and pepper. Cover the bottom of a tin flat baking-dish, previously buttered, with the herbs, and lay on them a floxmder, neatly trimmed, or fillets of any flat fish. Strew bread-crmnbs thickly over, and bits of butter on the top of all. Moisten with white wine. Cook carefully. Crisp the top with a salamander. Serve very hot, and with a squeeze of lemon over the dish. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of flounders, 6d. to is. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Flounders, Boiled. Lay the fish in a kettle, with salt and water in the proportion of six ounces to each gallon, and a little vinegar. Let the water boil up again, and then emove it to the side to simmer till done. The fish must not boil fast, or they will break. Time to simmer, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost of flounders, from 6d. to Is. FLO (216 ) PON Flounders, Fricasseed. Prepare in a clean stewpan a sauce of white wine, about half a pint, the liquor of a dozen oysters, and the fish minced, three anchovies, pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Stew these together for a few minutes. Have ready fillets of flounders or plaice that have been fried crisp and brown in. butter or dripping. Lay them in, and stew altogether, adding a piece of butter to the stewpan. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. Sufficient, one for each person. Flounders, Fried. Lay them in salt and water for an hour or more to get rid of the muddy flavour, or rub them well on all sides with salt, which will make the fish firm. Dry them, dip into egg, and cover with bread-crumbs. Fry in oil or boiling lard, and serve on a hot napkin. Garnish with crisped parsley. Time, five to ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. Flounders, Fried (another way). Eub the fish well with salt, and let them stay two hours. Then shake oft' the salt and wipe quite dry. Dip into egg, and cover with bread-crumbs ; fry in boiling lard. Send to table on a napkin, garnished with crisped parsley. Time, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. Sufficient, one for each person. Flounders, Stewed. Wash and trim the fish; put it into a stewpan with about a pint of some good gravy, a glass of claret or port, a smaU "tea-spoonful of allspice and black pepper mixed, tlrree cloves, or a little mace. Stew the fish in this mixture till done ; then remove it, and thicken the gravy, adding a Little Chili vinegar, essence of anchovy, pepper, and salt. Strain, and send it to table poured over the fish. Time to stew fish, ten to twenty minutes ; to boil gravy, eight to ten minutes. Flour, Browned. This flour wUl be found an excellent substitute for roux, which the French employ in the composition of their dishes. The flour is simply browned by placing it on a baking-tin in the oven or before the fire, and turning it frequently to prevent its being burnt. Blended with butter, it colours and thickens soup. If kept in an ordinary dredging-box it will be found convenient for gravies or any made dishes. Flour Paste. A common paste may be made by simply boiling flour and water, but one that wiU keep good, and be useful for various purposes, should be made as follows : Dissolve an ounce of alum in a pint and a half of wai-m water ; add flour to make it as thick as cream, and a tea-spoonful of powdered resin. Boil tin stiff, stirring well. This will keep twelve months. Flour Pudding. Make with the following ingredients : One quart of new milk, eight yoiks and four whites of eggs. Beat the eggs with part of the milk, into which stir four large spoonfuls of flour ; add the rest of the milk, and flavour with nutmeg, essence of ratafia, and sugar to taste. Mix well, and boil one hour in a })uttorcd basin. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for two puddings. Flour Pudding, Hasty. Make a smooth batter with two ounces of fine flour and a pint of milk. Boil it in a clean saucepan over a slow fire until quite thick : add sugar to sweeten, half an ounce of butter, a few drops of the essence of ratafia, and a little grated nutmeg. Let it stay till cold ; then beat into the batter three eggs, and bake in a dish lined or not with thin paste. A layer of marmalade, or any other preserve, on the paste at the bottom of the dish is much approved of ; or the pudding may be eaten simply boiled as above, and served hot with cold butter, sugar, and nutmeg. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Flummery. BoU two ounces of gelatine in a pint and a half of water for three-quarters of an houi- ; add a pint of sherry, the rind of a lemon, and the jmce of three, with sugar enough to sweeten. Make a pint of cream hot, and when cold again, mix it with the other ingredients, stirring fully half an hour. If mixed while warm the lemon -juice will curdle it. Moulds should be dipped in water or oiled, and the flummery should be allowed to set a day before turning out. Blanched almonds, slit lengthwise, stuck round the flummery, or preserved cherries, look well. Probable cost, 3s. for this quantity. Sufficient for two moulds. Flummery, French. Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little milk ; then add a quart of cream, flavoured with two spoonfuls of oi-ange-flower water, and sugar to sweeten. Stir while it boils constantly, and strain into a mould. To be served turned out on a dish, with baked pears placed round it. Gelatine may be used instead of isinglass. Time, quarter of an hour to boil. Probable cost, 5s. Folkestone Pudding Pies. Put two lauiel-leaves and the peel of a small lemon in half a pint of milk in a stewpan, over a slow fire, to extract the fiavour of the laurel and lemon. Mix three oimces of ground rice in another haK-pint of milk, which add to the flavoured milk, the latter boing first strained. Boil, stirring all the time, for a quarter of an hour. Remove the mixture from the fire, 'and have ready six well-beaten eggs, three ounces of butter, and a quarter of a poimd of sugar ; heat all together first, and stir into the rice mixture tiU thoroughly blended. FUl pattypans lined with puft' paste, and strew currants lightly over each. Bake in a moderate oven. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Fondu. Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk and dissolve an ounce of butter in it. Stir into it a quarter of a pint of cold milk in which two ounces of arrowroot have been rubbed smooth. Let it cool, and add the beaten yolks of four eggs, half a table-spoonful of salt, a drachm of cayenne, and four ounces of grated Parmesan. Pour in the whites of the eggs whisked to a light froth, and bake at once, without opening the oven till done. The dish should be lined with a buttered paper rising three inches above the top, as the fondu will rise very much. It must be sent to taljle immediately, for it falls as (piickly as it rises. PON (217) FOR Fondu (ii ritaliennc). Grate half a pound of rarmctMin, Gruyere, or any good dry cheese, and stir over the tire half a pint of cream, with enough flour to thicken it. When of the consistency of melted butter, add the cheese and a httle salt. ]Mix till the heat has gone oif, then blend with the above ingredients four well-beaten yolks of eggs, and lastly, the four whites whipped to a hnn froth. Bake in a papered tin and in a hot oven, tilling the tin to only half its depth. The fondu should rise very high, and be served immediately, or it will fall, and the appeaiance be spoiled. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. .Sufficient for live or six persons. Fondu (on Caisses). This fondu may be made in any form desired small paper cases, moulds, or tart-tins. Pound in a mort;ir, with ogg to moisten, equal quantities of Swiss, Parmesfin, and cream cheese (a quarter of a pound of each). Moisten with five eggs ; mix the egg gradually while pounding. Bake in a hot oven, allowing time to give the fondu a rich colour. +Scrve quickly. Time, about ten minutes to bake. Forcemeat, Almond. Beat up the yolks of three eggs with a quarter of a pint of good cream, and flavour with a little nutmeg. Blanch and pound in a mortar three ounces of sweet almonds, using white of egg to moisten. ' Add these, with tkree-quarters of a pound of light bread-crumbs, and tkree ounces of butter broken into small bits, to the egg mixtui-e. ?Stir in, lastly, the whites of the eggs whisked to a solid froth, and fill either capon or turkey. Forcemeat Balls. Chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a little lemon-peel, and jjaisley. Mix with a basin of bread-crumbs, and flavoirr with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Moisten with the yolks of two eggs, roll in flour, and make up into small balls. Bake in a hot oven tiU crisp. This recipe will do for fowls. The addition of a little ham, chopped or pounded, will be found a considerable improvement. Forcemeat Balls, Brain. Clean and soak the brains in lukewarm water for three houi's, then boil. "V\Tien cold, pound them in a mortar with a little flour, some chopped parsley, .salt, and pepper. Bind with raw egg, and make into small balls. Fry a light bro vn, and drop them into the tureen. Time, ten minutes to boil. Forcemeat Balls, Curry. Pound ?together bread-crumbs, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, a small quantity of butter, and a seasoning of curry powder and salt. Make into small balls. Time to fiy, two or three minutes. Forcemeat Balls, Egg. Pound the hard-boiled yolks of half a dozen eggs -with some chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of flour, alittle pepper, salt, and cayenne. Moisten with ep;g, and make the paste iato small balls. Boil for two minutes before using in soup or other dishes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one tureen of soup. Forcemeat Balls for Mock-Turtle Soups. The deHoate French preparation, 15 Panada, will, if used in thts composition of these balls, be found a great improvement. Prepare it thus : Soak the ciumb of two or three rolls. I'ut it into a small saucepan by the side of the fire, with enough pale rich gravy to cover it. \Vlien sufficiently boiled, squeeze off the moisture, put the panada into an enamelled saucepan, and stir with a wooden spoon till dry ; then mix with it the yolks of two unbeaten eggs, and let it cool for use. Pound in a mortar four ounces of veal, free from gristle, bone, and skin ; add the panada to this, -v dth three ounces of fresh butter. Season with nutmeg, mace, salt, and cayenne. If liked, a little lean ham and more seasoning may be used. Koll into balls, and boil before adding to the soup. Time, twelve minutes to boil. Forcemeat, Chestnut. Remore the outer skin from some chestnuts (they should be ripe and sound). Boil them for two or three minutes to get off the inner skin. Throw them, one by one, as the skin is cleared away, into a basin of cold water, then drain and weigh. When quite cold, pound them with an equal weight of butter or half their weight of fat bacon. ]\Iix with two oimces of panada, and flavour- with grated lemon, mace, or nutmeg, and a little salt. For six ounces of chestnuts use two or three unbeaten yolks of eggs to bind, and a little flour when moulding the paste into cakes. The cakes should also be dredged with flour when put into the fryingpan. Time to fry, fifteen minutes. Forcemeat, French, Boiled Calf's Udder for. The calf's udder is used in French cookery instead of butter. It is first boiled, then pounded, and passed thi-ough a sieve, when it is fit for mixing in the composition of their exquisitely dehcate forcemeats. Forcemeat for Baked Pike. Prepare thi-ee ounces of bread-crumbs from a stale loaf, shred two ounces of suet, and mince eight or ten bearded oysters. Put these together into a stewpan, with a flavouring of mace (pounded), 1 salt, and pepper. Moisten with the liquor from the oysters, and six table-spoonfuls of thick cream". Bind with the yolks of two eggs, and stir over the fire till the forcemeat thickens. Stuff this forcemeat into the pike, and sew the fish up securely. Time to thicken forcemeat, four or five minutes ; to bake pike, one hour, more or less. Sufficient for one pike. Forcemeat for Carp. Prepare from a stale loaf half a pound of crumbs, and mince one dozen oysters, divested of beards; add two ounces of finely-shred suet, and the I same of bacon or ham, and good fresh butter. Flavour with salt, nutmeg, a dessert-spoonful I of savoury herbs, and a little parsley, all of which should be minced small. Blend together : with three well-beaten eggs. Stuff the fish, ; and sew up securely. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for one fish. Forcemeat for Cold Pasties. Foi savoury pasties, to be eaten cold, use a forcemeat of fowl an old fowl will answer this purpose. Strip off the skin, and clear the flesh from the bones ; pound the flesh in a mortar ; soak some white bread in milk, squeeze it drj FOR (218) FOR and rub with it throe ounces of hutter, in the proportion of half a pound of bread to this quantity ; add the meat, with a flavouring of nutmeg and salt. Bind with four yolks of eggs, and make up into balls for pasties or soups. A little ham, cut into thin slices and rolled round the balls separately, is a great improvement to a white meat pasty. For game or beef pasties use pork, game, or liver. If parsley is liked, some may bo minced and pounded -with, the meat. Forcemeat for Pish, Soups, or Stews. Pound the flesh of a middle-sized lobster, half an anchovy, a piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Mix these with a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs, two ounces of hutter (oiled), and two raw eggs. Make into small balls, and fry a pale brown in butter. Two or three oysters may bo' added. I'robable cost, 3s. to -ts. .Sufiicient for twenty balls. Forcemeat for Game. Take the livers of the game, and pound them with half their weight of beef suet and good fat bacon, mixed together; season with salt, pepper, and powdered cloves. Use a little of the meat of game if enough livers cannot be obtained ; moisten %vith cream, and bind with the yolks of two eggs. If the forcemeat be required stiff, stew over a grntle fire, keeping it constantly stirred until tlie proper consistency is gained. Time to stew, al )0ut ten or twelve minutes. Forcemeat for Goose. Chop very finely two ounces of onions, pour boiling water on them, and cover the basin with a i late. When they have steamed a few minutes, pour off the water, and add the same weight of breadcrumbs and the parboiled liver, or a little beef minced small, with half a dozen sage-leaves, or more if liked. Flavour with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Some cooks boil the onions, but as this mode takes from the freshness of the forcemeat, the above preparation of onions -n-ill be found to please most lovers of goose. Butter may be used, bits of it being mixed with the forcemeat, but a well-conditioned goose will not require butter. Forcemeat for Hare. ParboU the liver of the hare, if sound, and mince it finely ; also -hop a quarter of a pound of suet and rather less of lean bacon, which should be shred fine, that tlie forcemeat may not require to bo pounded in a mortar, ilix these ingredients together, and add six ounces of bread-crumbs, a dessertspoonful of parsley, a little thjine and marjoram mixed, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Bind with two or three yolks of eggs, which must be well beaten b( fore being used. Stuff the inside of the hare, and make balls to be fried a nice brown. Forcemeat for Meat Pies or Ragouts. Take a quarter of a poimd of ham, the same of cold veal, and of beef suet, a chive or two, some parsley, cavenne, salt, and a verv little lemon-peel, with half a pint of breadcrumbs. Pound all together in a mortar (pre- ?\-iously chopping the meat). Form the force- meat into a mass with two raw eggs. The fl'ivour may be varied according to taste; an anchovy or oysters may -be added, if liked. Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Forcemeat for Pheasant. Take the livers of two fowls ; see that they are sound, and that the gaU has been properly cleared away. Parboil them, and then pound in a mortar, with half a pound of grated ham, cooked, and without fat, three or four trulfles, or mushrooms, if the former cannot be had, half a teaspoonful of minced parsley, and a shallot. Flavour with pepper, salt if requiied, and add a little nutmeg. Blend with the forcemeat three oimces of butter, and stuff' the bird. Time, five minutes to boil livers. Probable cost, exclusive of trulfles. Is. -id. Suflicieut for one pheasant. Forcemeat for Pigeons. Stir two ounces of butter till it is almost a cream ; blend with it half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, add a little parsley minced fine, lemon-peel, and nutmeg grated, with salt and pepper to taste. Bind with t\\o beaten eggs. Probable cost, 6d. Forcemeat for Quenelles. This forcemeat may be composed of chicken, veai, game, or fish. Scrape the meat from a couplt; of rabbits, or the lean meat from a knuckle of veal, pound it in a mortar, and jjass it through a wii'e sieve. Put back into the mortar threequarters of a pound of meat, with half a pound of good butter, and the same of milk panada ; mix, and pound all together. Add to it a flavouring of i epper, salt, nutmeg, and lemonpeel, both grated, and continue to pound while adding foui- or five well-beaten eggs. Much depends on the care employed in the preparation of this forcemeat; it may be used as a stuffing, or moulded into quenelles. Forcemeat for Roast Pig. ParboU a small onion, or two if the flavom- be liked. Chop them very fine, with about half an ounce of powdered sage, five or six ounces of breadcriunbs, and a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter. Flavour- higlily with cayenne peppei and salt. Bind with egg. Onions are not always used for this forcemeat ; they may be left out altogether. Forcemeat for Turkey (Roast). Take of lean veal, or the flesh of an old fowl, a couple of ounces ; free it from skin and sinew. Pound it in a mortar, with two ounces of shred suet, the same of bread-crumbs, a dessertspoonful of minced parsley, a large tea-spoonful of lemon-th}Tne, an onion, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Flavour delicately with pepper and salt, and pound and bind together with two beaten eggs. A richer and better forcemeat is made by the addition of ham, tongue, anchovy, or the minced flesh, without the beards, of a dozen oysters. I'ork sausagemeat is commonly used to stuff' the crop. Forcemeat for Turkeys. Take equal quantities of lean veal and pork, and mince them finely together ; also cut into pieces a parboiled veal sweetbread, and mix with about three-quarters of a pound of each of the former meats. Add half a pound of bread panada, and the same of wanned butter. Flavour with a little nutmeg, salt, ])ei)per, and half an ounce of FOR (219) POU morsels, minced small. Bind with thieo beaten oggs, and fill both crop and body. Forcemsat of Beef. Take cold mashed potato, some slices of beef minced tine, a few savoury herbs, pepper, and salt. Mix these with two eggs to a paste. Make into balls. Fry in butter a rich brown. Garnish with fi'ied parsley. Forcemeat of Fish. Clear away the skin and bone from tiu-bot, brill, or any sohd fish ; mince one pound of the flesh very fine. Stew an onion in butter, and when tender, pound it in a mortar with four ounces of butter, broken into bits. Add six ounces of bread; preWously soaked in milk and squeezed diy, a couple of eggs, which should be well beaten, pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; and when all is well mixed, stir in the fish, and make up into balls to be fried or boiled. Previous to mixing the fish with the other ingredients it should be passed through a wire sieve. Forcemeat of Game. Clear the meat from the bones, and mince it with a quarter of a pound of fat bacon to each pound of game. Flavour with shallot, capers, lemon-peel, and a very few leaves of taiTagon, all of which should be minced very fine. Soak some bread, and press out all the moisture ; add it, with the yolks of three eggs. If the bacon be salt, be careful not to over-salt the forcemeat ; pepper to taste ; and stir in the frothed whites of eggs before using. Forcemeat of Liver. To one pound of calf's liver allow a qiiarter of a pound of fat bacon ; chop tliem both separately. Stew in buttei-, but do not brown, a shallot, an onion, and. if liked, a small clove of garlic. Cover the stewpan until tender. Press out the moistm-e from some bread which has been soaked in water, and add it to the butter in the pan ; stir it to a stiff paste, adding more butter if required. Eemove the paste to a mortar, and pound it with the chopped liver, &c., a couple of eggs beaten without the whites, a small quantity of allspice or nutmeg, pepper, and salt. WTien well pounded together, pass the forcemeat through a wire sieve. Forcemeat of Mushroom. Procure fresh mushrooms young, just opened ones. Peel them, cut off the stems, and remove the browTi part. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stowpan, and let them simmer very gently over a slow fire, with a slight flavouring of mace and cayenne. Spread them over a dish, placed in a slanting position to drain away the moistiu-e. "\\Tien cold, mince them, and add four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, a small seasoning of salt, cayenne, mace, and nutmeg, a piece of butter, and the yolks of a couple of eggs to bind. Throw in as much of the mushroom gravj' as will make the forcemeat of the proper consistency. It will be greatly improved if the whole mixture be pounded in a mortar. Make into balls, poach, and throw into soup ; or fry, and serve round a dish of roast fowls or minced veal. It is also good as a stuffing for boiled fowls, partridges, &c. Timer to stew in butter, seven minutes ; to poach balls, six minutes ; to fry, six or seven minutes. Forcemeat of Onion. An accompaniment for roast turkey or fowl. After peeling, scoop out the inside carefully, and fill up the vacancy with forcemeat. Bake the onions in the oven. Forcemeat of Oyster. Get very fresh oysters, beard them, and cut them into quarters. Grate bread enough to fill half a pint, and one ounce and a half of finely-shred suet or butter, which should be broken into bits. Mix all these ingredients together with a good flavouring of herbs, and a seasoning of salt, pe2:)per, and grated nutmeg. Bind with two well-beaten eggs. This forcemeat is for boiled or roast turkey. It may be made also into balls and used as a garnish. Eighteen oysters are sufficient for one turkey. Forcemeat of Pasty. Take an equal weight of bacon and lean pork, a pound of each, and two poimds of veal. Lay them in slices in a stewpan, with just enough water to keep the meat from sticking to the bottom, two ounces of butter, a shi-ed onion, and a teaspoonful of white pepper. Cover the lid closely, and steam over a slow fire till the meat is tender, then remove it to a dish to be minced veiy finely. Pour a cupful of milk into tfie stewpan with the gravy, and season with salt, pepper, a very little mace, and a few minced green herbs. Beat up half a dozen eggs, and stir them in; and lastly, mix the meat well with it. Have ready a round form lined Avith paste, throw the mixture in, and cover with the paste Kd, which should have a hole in the top. Bake in a moderate oven, and do not turn out until cold. When served, cut through like a cake. Forcemeat of Sausage. Prepare a sausage-meat, in the proportion of two parts of lean pork to one of fat. Take equal quantities of this and bread-crumbs ; add two ounces of butter, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a di-achm of mace. Pound all together in a mortar, and bind with the yolks of a couple of eggs. Forcemeat of Shrimp. Clear a pint of shrimps from their shells, and chop them finely. Mix with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs. Season with salt, pepj er, and a small quantity of mace. Pound into a smooth paste, with two or three ounces of butter. Bind with the yolk of an egg. Use this forcemeat to stufi: any fresh water fish. A pike, for example, if stufEed and baked, will be found excellent. Forcemeat of Veal. Chop lean veal, free from skin or fat, and then pound it in a mortar ; add a third of its weight of butter or suet, and the same of fine bread, which should be first soaked in cold milk and squeezed dry. Pound all in the mortar, with a flavom-ing of salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Bind with the yolks of two eggs, and make the paste into little balls, or use it as a stuffing. Four-fruit Jelly. The fruits selected for this excellent jelly are those which wall yield the most jvdce. Take of fine red-currants, half a pound, of cherries, raspberries, and strawberries, each half that weight ; get out all their FOIT (220) FOW juice over a slow fire, and strain it from the fruit. Make a syrup with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and as much water as, -svith the juice, will make a quart. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass, clarify, and simmer all over the tire for about five minutes. Add a glass of cinra(,oa, and strain into a mould. The jelly should be iced befoi'e being turned out to serve. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for one large mould. T Four-fruit Liquor (a pleasant drink for summer). Take one pound of raspberries, one pound of black-currants, one pound and a half of strawberries, and one pound and a half of :Morella cherries. Put them into a deep jar, and cover them closely. Place the jar in a saucepan, half filled with boiling water, and simmer very gently for half an hour. Take the pan from the fire, and pass its contents through a jelly-bag, being ver}- careful not to squeeze the fruit ; indeed, if a little of the juice be left in it, it may be used for com m on tarts. Measure the juice, and put it into a deep jar, and for every quart add six ounces of loaf sugar which has been dissolved in half a pint of water. Add half the cherry kernels, slightly bruised, cover the jar to keep out the dust, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Stir into it an equal quantity of brandy, pass the liquid again through the jelly-bag, and bottle for use. When taken, two table-spoonfuls of this liquor should be added to half a tumblerful of iced water. Fowl. It may be scr\dceable to point out the features which should be looked for when a fowl is purchased for cooking purpost?. Chickens, on account of their age, can hardly be anything else than tender. Capons should have a fat vein beneath the wing, a thick belly and rump, a short and pale comb, and smooth legs. Pullets are at their best in the spring. Cocks should have short spurs, smooth legs, and a short, smooth, bright comb. Hens should be full-breasted and smooth Fowl (a la Bechamel). Have ready a pint of bechamel sauce ; pour about half of it over a couple of fowls, boiled according to the recipe given {see Boiled Fowls) ; the other half should be thinned with a little stock, and served in a tureen. Send to table hot, with a garnish of brocoli in bunches round the dish. Time, frona half an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 7 s. per pair. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Fowl (a la Carlsford, entree). Bone a fowl, without making an opening down the back ; fill up the vacancies made by the removal of the bones with a forcemeat, and put a roll of it in the body. A nicely-seasoned sausage-meat may also be added, and placed on either side. Truss firmly with slender skewers, and tie the bird to the spit. Baste frequently, and roast it a whole hour. An ordinary veal stuffing may be used ; but a mushroom forcemeat, or any other delicately prepared one, will be an improvement. Fowl (a la Francjaise) . Remove the breastbones from a couple of fine fowls, and draw the strings from the legs ; truss them as for boiling. Mix some lemon -juice with a lump of butter, which insert in the fowls before placing them into a stewpan, then cover them with strips of fat bacon, cut very thin. IMake a sauce as follows : Cut equal quantities of veal and fat bacon, one pound of each, into dice, with enough ham to flavour. Fry the meat , without browning it, in a good quantity of butter, season with salt, pepper, and add a clove, half a bay-leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, and a little thyme, with as much boiling water as will be required for gravy to stew the fowls. Stew till the flavour of the herbs is extracted, then strain into the stewpan. Keep a brisk heat on the cover of the stewpan, and a very slow fire underneath. When sufficiently done, drain, and servo the fowls with rich brown sauce, and a scarlet tongue between them. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the fowls. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Fowl (a la Hollandaise). Take out the breast-bone of a large but young fowl, and fill up the space with a forcemeat composed of the following ingredients : Half a pint of breadcrumbs, an ounce and a half of finely-shred suet or butter, a small parboiled onion, or a few oysters, bearded, and cut not too small, pepper, salt, and an egg to bind, lako a batter as for fritters, and when the fowl has roasted half its time, pour the batter over, and when dry, pour more ; continue until it is thickly coated, and of a nice brown colour. Serve with melted butter and lemon pickle. While roasting, a thickly buttered paper should be fastened over the fowl, and only removed when the batter is used. Time, one hour altogether. Sufficient for three or four persons. Fowl (a la ]\Iarongo). Pour four tablespoonfuls of the best Lucca oil into a stewpan, and cut a fowl into pieces, which dredge with flour. Lay them into the stewpan and brown over a moderate fire, turning each piece, that all may be of a good colour. A pint of stock, or water, should now be added, with a piece of garlic about the size of a pea, a dozen and a half, or more, of small button-mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a tea-spoonful of sugar. Simmer gently for half an hour, and skim the surface to clear oflc the fat as it appears. When done, arrange the joints nicely on a dish, and reduce the sauce by boiling till it is sufficiently thick, then serve it over the fowl. Time, fifty minutes altogether. Sufficient for four or five persons. Fowl (a la ]\Iayomiaise). Cut up the joints of a cold roast fowl. On a dish place a layer of picked lettuce ; on this place a layer of fowl ; sprinkling, as you proceed, with hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, cuciunber, and cajoers, aU chopped together; now put cress, chopped radishes, dry mustard ; again lettuce ; and on the top of the dish arrange the breast and wings of the fowl ; garnish with hard-boiled eggs, in rings, and beetroot ; and pour over the whole a sauce mayonnaise. Probable cost, 4s. Fowl (a la ]\Iilanese). Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mix with bread-crumbs. Cut a fowl into fiUets, and dip each fillet into the crumbs ; roU them in egg-yolk, well beaten, row (221 ) row and then again into bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt. Fry them in butter until of a nice brown colour, and have ready a puree of tomato sauce to serve them on. Time, twenty minutes to fry. Probable cost, 4s. iSuiiicient for three or four persons. Fowl (a la Kemonlade). Beat a fine fowl with a rolling-pin imtil it is reduced to a pulp, and then stew it in about two quarts of water till the liquor is reduced one-half. Put another fowl into the liquor, and let it boil one hour or more. Take it out, and when cold cut it up into convenient-sized pieces : place all in a salad-dish, with a di-essing of equal quantities of oil and vinegar, and the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs rubbed smooth. Slice some more hard-boiled eggs, and cover the top with French beans pickled, and the egg slices nicely intermixed. Probable cost, 7s. or 83. Sufficient for six persons. Fowl (a la Tartare). Split open a large fowl at the back, and press it tlat into a dish of clarified butter ; the feet have been previously taken off, and the legs bent in. In ten minutes fry it in butter a pale brown, and then cover with tine bread-crumbs and beaten egg. Dip the fowl once more into the clarified butter and broil over a slow fire, taking care that it does not bum. It should be turned often. Serve with a brown gravy, flavoured with lemon- juice, and send sauce a la Tartare to table in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes to broil. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Fowl, Apiciua Sauce for. Thick sauce for a boiled chicken. Put the following ingredients into a mortar : Aniseed, dried mint, and lazar root (similar to assafoetida) ; cover them with vinegar; add dates, poiirin liquamen, oil, and a small quantity of mustard seeds ; reduce all to a proper thickness with port wine warmed ; pour this over the chicken, which should previously have been boiled in aniseed water. Fowl, Blanc[uette of. Put into a stewpan half a pint of white sauce and a quarter of a pint of broth; when boiling, add some neat pieces of cold fowl and slices of tongue boiled, season with pepper and salt, and stir in a beaten egg, with the juice of a lemon. Cover by the side of the fire to warm, but do not let it boil. Ser -o quickly. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the sauce and make the fowl hot. One fowl sufficient for four persons. Fowl, Boiled. Truss the fowl firmly, and boil slowly in a saucepan of hot water. The slower it boils and the better it is skimmed the plumper and whiter it will be. Boiled tongue, ham, or bacon should accompany it. Place the fowl on a hot dish, and pour over it bechamel, parsley and butter, oyater or mushroom sauce, with some more sauce in a tureen. Time : large fowl, one hour ; moderatesized one, three-quarters. Probable cost, Ss. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Fowl, Boiled with Rice. Into some clear broth put an onion, pepper, siilt, and mace; stew the fowl verj- gently in this for half an hour ; then add half a pound of rice, well washed ; simmer tiU this is quite tender, then remove the rice, and place on a hot sieve to draia ; dish the fowl, and place rice all round it. Serve with melted butter and parsley for sauce ; do not use too much broth. Time, one hour or longer. Fowl, Boned and StuJfed. Pound together in a mortar, after being minced, equal quantities of fat bacon and lean ham (two ounces of each), and a double weight of veal. Mix a small cup of bread-crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Bind with the yolks of two eggs. Bone a fine fowl, without disfiguring the skin, press this forcemeat into it ; tie it into a nice shape, and stew in some white stock. It may be served with anj' white sauce, and with sliced lemon as a garnish. Time, one hour to stew. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for foui- or five persona. Fowl, Boudin (a la Peine). Take the whole of the white meat to be found on a couple of roast fowls, clear it well from skin and gristle, and mince small. Have ready the best part of a pint of bechamel sauce, into which put the mince ; add salt and cayenne. When quite cold, use a little flour, and form the mince into long-shaped boudins ; the above quantity will make two. Brush them with egg mixture, and strew crumbs thickly over, to prevent their being broken when in the frying pan ; fry in butter a good brown, and when drained from the butter send to table with a thin bechamel sauce poured round them. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl. Is. 4d. Sufficient for one dish. Fowl, Braised. Fill a nice young fowl with forcemeat, after removing the breast-bone. Put it into a stewpan, with a pint of broth, two glasses of white wine, any available poultry trimmings and bones, an onion stuck with cloves, a piece of carrot, and two or three blades of mace, pepper, and salt. Lay thin slices of bacon over the fowl, and enveIop it in a dcUcate cloth. Cover the braising-pan over, and place it on a moderate fire. In an hour's time take out the fowl, and brown it in the oven. Sti-ain the gra\y in the stewpan, boil, and reduce it to a glaze, with which glaze the fowl. Gramish with a fricassee of mushrooms and truffles if these are at hand. Sufficimt for threi or four persons. Fowl, Braised, with Beef and Chestnuts. Take a piece of the upper side of the round of beef, about one pound and a half, and rub it with a pickle made with the following ingredients : Half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of mustard, the same of grated nutmeg, a piece of garlic, about the size of a pea, half a gill of some good sauce, either Worcester or Harvey, a table-spoonful of oil, and the strained juice of a lemon. Lot the beef stay in and be basted with this pickle for twenty-four hours. Put a piece of butter in a stewpan, with the heart of a celery-root, a carrot, and two shallots. AVTien drained from the pickle. Lay in the beef, and place a fine fat fowl, trtissed for boiling, on it; cover the breast with butter, and six good-sizod slices of row ( 222 ) FOW Vacon, and add, lastly, three-quarters of a pint of water, and the sauce. Baste the fowl fre([uently ; throw into the gra\'y one dozen and a liaLf of peeled chestnuts, and "be careful not to stew too quickly. When it has simmered about two hours and a half take up the fowl, put the bacon round it, and pom- a rich white .sauce over it. Dish the beef separately, Avith the vegetables and gravy. Serve both dishes at once. Probable cost, 8s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Fowl, Braised, with Tomatoes. Put a stewpan over the fire, and when hot, rub a dove of garlic over the bottom two or three times. Lay a fowl in the pan, prepared as if for boiling, the breast being covered with well-buttered paper. Use the- best part of a iuarter of a pound of butter on the paper, and p(jur in a large breakfast -cupful of strongwhite gravy. Bring the gravy to a boil, and then draw it aside to sinnner gently. Baste frequently with the gravy for thi-ee-quarters of an horn-, then add half a dozen tomatoes sliced, a shallot minced, salt, pepper, a grain of cayenne, the quai-ter of a salt-spoonful of powdered ginger, the same of nutmeg, and half a salt-spoonful of flour of mustard. Put the tomatoes in last, with the juice, strained, of a large lemon, and a wine-glassful of Marsala. Let it come to a boil, but continue to simmer slowly, and baste for an hour or more. Serve the fowl on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over. Time to simmer fowl in gravy, two hours. Sufficient for a dish. Fowl, Broiled. This is a hasty and very excellent dish, suitable for the supper-table, to be had in perfection at Windsor, Cookham, &c. Take off the head of a young fowl, and when the bird is dead, ch-aw and plunge it into boiling water. Remove the skin and feathers together. Split it up the back, and lay the inside downwards on a gridiron over a clear fire. Tui-n frequently, and pepper lightly on all sides. When sufficiently done, put it on a hot dish, sprinkle salt, and rub well with butter. Serve with mushroom, tomato, or liver and lemon sauce. Time to broil, eighteen to twenty minutes. Sufficient for foiu- persons. Fowl, Broiled, with Mushroom Sauce. Divide a large fowl into quarters, and roast till nearly done, basting plentifully with butter. Finish the cooking over a clear firt;, pepper lightly, and season to taste with salt. Make a sauce as follows: Stew two dozen button-mushrooms and a slice of lean ham with a little butter ; add some bro-mi gravy, about three-quarters of a pint, pepper, and salt, and simmer till the mushi-ooms are tender. Thicken to the consistency of cream, and add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and haK that quantity of sugar. Serve with the sauce round the fowls. Time to roast, thuty-fivc minutes ; to broil, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Fowl, Capolitade. Boil down the bones, skin, and trimmings of a roast or boiled fowl, with a bunch of parsley, a little thjTne, half a bay-leaf, and a couple of onions sliced. Cut up the meat into small pieces, put it into a stewpan. and when the gravy has boiled for half an hour, strain, and add a little roux, and a wineglassful of sherry. Throw this sauce, boiling, over the fowl in the stewpan, and let it stand by the side of the fire to get hot thi-ough ; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Send the fowl to table garnished w-ith sippets of toasted bread. Fowl, Croquettes of. iMix with every half-pound of solid fowl (free from bone or gristle), two ounces of scraped ham. Make half a pint of gravy, by boiling the bones and rejected pieces. Fry two or thi-ee shallots in a little butter, add the gravy, and season with powdered mace, pepper, salt, and a half a teaspoonful of pouuded sugar. Rub up a tablespoonful of tiour with two ounces of butter; put this and the mince to the gravy, and when thick, stir in the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Make into baUs as soon as cold, and fry a nice brown. Roll them in egg and bread-crumbs before frying. Time, ten minutes to fry. Fowl, Curried. Cut up a young fowl ; roll each piece in a mixture of curry-powder and flour, three dessert-snoonfuls of each. Cut foui' large onions into rings, and divide the rings into bits of an inch in length ; fry a light brown in two ounces of butter, with a clove or two of garlic, if approved of. Add the pieces of fowl, and two more ounces of butter. Put all into a stcAvpan, and stew gently with hot milk, broth, or water, one pint. , Season to taste with salt, and cover well. The sauce should be reduced one-third, to which squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, before being sent to table. Rice should accompany this dish, either round the dish or separate. Fowl, Curried (a I'lndienne). Great care is required in the preparation of this excellent curry. It should be put in preparation early in the morning to give the necessary time, but better, perhaps, the day before it is required. Take three dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, blend it wdth a small quantity of milk, rubbing to a smooth })aste, and adding, by degrees, a pint of stock. Put this quantity into a stewpan, and simmer four hours, when it should be reduced one-half. The excellence of this dish depends greatly on the time allowed for simmering. Put a quarter of a pound of butter iuto a frying-pan, and slice up six large onions, three or four tomatoes, three cloves of garlic ; chop up also an ounce of raisins without stones ; fry all, and brown the pieces of fowl a nice colour in the same butter. Stew all the ingredients together, closing the ste imn tightly, for thirty minutes ; then add the juice of half a lemon and serve. Time, eight or ten houi-s to jn-epare and cook. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five persons. Fowl Cutlets. Bone a fresh young fowl ; separate the wings, legs, and merrythought ; pick out all the meat from the inferior parts, mince it, and season with pepper, salt, and chopped lemon-peel. Put it in a mortar, and smooth to a paste, with a small quantity of gravy, procured by boiling the bones and trimmings. :\Iake cutlets of the legs, wings, &c. ; dip each cutlet into 03; , spread the forcemeat over, and bread FOW ( 223 ) POW crumbs over all; then fry in butter a good brown. Serve with, some of the gravy thickened in the dish. Time, half an houi- to prepa-rc. Sufficient for three or four persons. Fowl Fillets (au Supreme). Cut as many neat fillets as you can from three fowls ; lay them in paii-s, -with forcemeat between, in a dish of clarihed butter, and then fry them in some more butter, and dip them well in breadcrumbs. Fry also bread, cut as nearly the same size as possible. Have ready some bechamel sauce, which pour into the pan, first throwing otf a part of the butter. Pour this sauce, when heated, over the hUets piled in the centre of the dish, but do not moisten the bread with it. Place the bread alternately with the hllets round the dish, and leave the sauce whero it was poured in the centre. Time to lie in butter, half an hour; to 'fry, ten minutes. Sufficient for a dish. Fowl, Fricasseed. Take cold boiled fowl; cut it up, and simmer in gra\y, onion, mace, lemon-peel, white pepper, and a bunch of herbs ; a bit of knuckle of veal a.dded will be an improvement ; stew for twenty minutes. Mix up a bit of butter and flour ; put this into the gravy, with a little cream, a dash of nutmeg, and salt to taste. When thickened it is ready to serve. Fowl, Fried. Divide the remains of a cold fowl into convenient-sized pieces ; shi-ed two or thi-ee shallots verj fine, strew them, with salt and cayenne, over the meat in a dish, and poiir vinegar enough to steep the meat. Take out the fowl in an hour, drain, and fry, dipping each piece into batter ; use lard for frying, and let the pieces be nicely bro'wned. Garnish with roUed bacon and fried parsley. For the batter, mix half a pound of flom- with half a pint of hot water to a cream-like batter, stir in two ounces of butter, and the whites of a couple of eggs beaten to a froth. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of fowl. Fowl, Fried (a la Malabar). An Indian ilish, highly recommended by an experienced cook. Fry in butter the several joints of a rhicken, previously rubbed with curry-powder and a little salt, ilake them of a nice light l ro'?Ti colour. Cut some onions into slices, separate them into rings, and again cut them into bits of half an inch. Fry them verj- slowly in a clean'pan of clarified butter. If blackened, they will be spoiled. They shoidd be of a delicate golden brown, and free, when done, from grease. WTien quite drj', sprinkle salt, and strew over the fried chicken. Serve hot and -with a cut lemon on a plate. Time, twenty minutes to fry fowl. Probable cost, 3s. 6(1. Sufficient for an entrie. Fowl, Galantine of. Open a fine fowl down the Tiack, bone, and then cut out the flesh in long naiTow strijis, without injuring the skin ; leave enough meat as a lining to prevent the skin from bursting. Fill in the space (first spraiding out the fowl with the breast downwards) with a good forcemeat, about half an inch thick ; then place the strips of fowl and strips of boiled tongue in layers, with a few truffles between if they can be had. FUl up with alternate forcemeat and the strips of fowl, &c. i Shape the fowl nicely, and enclose it in a delicate white cloth. Have ready in a stewj in enough stock to cover the fowl. Put with it a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot, and stew gently for thi-ec-quarters of an hour ; then add salt and pepper, a clove, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and stew for another hour, keeping the lid of the pan closed. When the fowl is taken up, continue to boil the stock till it will jelly. Clarify, and when cold ornament the galantine with it ; cut in any form liked. If the fowl be cold, remove it from the cloth, glaze and coA-er with a mixture of bread-crumbs and gi-ated roasted chestnuts, and garnish -with the jelly, and hard-boiled eggs in halves, alternately. Fowl, Grillade of. Soak joints of cold roast fowl as for Fritot, and fry or boil. If fried, the}' should be first dipped into yolk of egg, and then into bread-crumbs, in which grated ham and lemon-peel, with a seasoning of mace, salt, and cayenne, ha ?e been mixed. BroU over a clear fire, and dip first into clarified butter, and then into the bread-crumbs. The fowl should be wiped diy after soaking, and before being dipped in the butter. Time, one horn' to soak. Fowl, Guinea, To Boast. This bird improves in flavom- by hanging. Prepare and roast like a turkey ; the head is sometimes left on, and the breast larded. Serve with gravy and bread-sauce in _a tureen. Time, thfeequai'ters to one hour, according to size. ,- 'Sufficient for four persons. '' Fowl, Hashed. Cut up a roasf owl, or any part of one. Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with water to cover them ; add a caiiot or two, some sliced onion, pre dously fried in butter, a blade of pounded mace, some savouiy herbs, pepper, and saltT' When the goodness is j extracted, strain and thicken with a small quan I tity of flour and butter. Put the fowl into a j clean stewpan, pour the gravy over, and sim j mcr for half an hour. A few minutes before ' serving add the juice of haK a lemon. Gamish j with sijipets of toasted bread. Time to stew ! bones, &c., for gravy, one hour and a half; to I wann fowl, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl, 6d. Fowl, Indian Dish of. Put over the fire in a large ste \7Jan two quails of good veal 1)r(jth, in which place a fowl, trussed as for boiling ; add the following spices (pounded), tied in a muslin bag : of cloves, allspice, mace, and peppercorns, each a quarter of an ounce, and of coriander seed and cinnamon, half an ounce, with foriy cardamom seeds. Bro ?n slightly in a frj-ing-pan with two ounces (jf j butter, a pound of weU-washed lice (Patna) ; and when the fowl is nearly done, add the rice, and stew imtil soft. Cut two or three middle I sized onions into slices, dredge with flour, and I fry a nice brown colour, without breaking the j rings. Have ready six slices of bacon cm-led ami giilled, and a couple of eggs, boiled hard I and quartered. AiTange the fowl in a ppa I midal form upon a dish, smother with the rice, i and garnish with the sliced onion, bacon, and POW ( 224 ) POW egffs. Time, half an hour to stow fowl ; half an hour to stew fowl and rice. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Fowl jelly (in cakes). Take ten pounds of the leg of beef, two cow-heels, a knuckle of veal, ;i couple of old fowls, and the trimmings of any thing at hand, with the bones, ice, broken in pieces ; cover with water, and boil gently, adding a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, an onion, a bit of lemon-peel, and some whole peppers, and salt to taste. Boil six hours ; clear olf the fat, strain, and let the mixture cool, when overj' particle of grease must be removed. When cold, put it over a quick fire, and boil till the jelly clings to the wooden spoon, when it may be poured out into a buttered tin. When quite cold, cut it into strips, and store carefully in a tin box, to be dissolved for gravy or soups. Fowl Klosse. Chop three or four ounces of suet, also the solid parts of an uncooked fowl ; soak three large slices of light bread in milk, and press the moisture from it till quite di-y. Put the whole into a mortar ; season with aait, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and lemon-peel. Pound all together to a smooth paste, with two well-beaten eggs. \nien shaped into Klosse, boil in clear soup. These Klosse may be made of veal, instead of fowl. Fowl Liver, Garnish. Take the livers from four fowls ; let them be quite sound, and of a good colour. Blanch them in boiling water, and then stew in gravy ; add a bunch of thj-me, parsley, popper, and stilt, half a tea-spoonful of each, with a small glass of white wine, len they have stewed a quarter of an hour, dry and use as a garnish. Time to blanch, ten minutes. Fowl, Marinaded. Cut a fine fowl into joints, and then into neat pieces. Pour over them, on a dish, equal quantities of oil and lemon-j nice, a small wine-glassful of each. Shred a couple of shallots, and lay a bunch of herbs and some sprigs of jjarsley about them ; season with a dessert-spoonful of pepper mixed. The fowl should be skinned before being put into the marinade, and well drained when removed from it. Fry in egg and bread-crumbs. Strain as much of the marinade as will be required for gravy. Make it hot, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the same of brown roux. Serve with the fowl in the centre, and : the gravy poured round it. Time, six hours to lie in marinade ; to fry, twenty minutes. j Fowl, Matelote of. Brown two ounces j of butter, with a little flour, in a stewpan. Stir i in half a pint of white wine, and add a parsnip j and the red part of two carrots, cut into lengths j of half a finger, a dozen small onions, blanched and peeled, a bunch of herbs, parsley, a blade of mace, salt, and pepper. Cut up a couple of chickens or a large fowl into neat pieces ; put j them in a clean ste.-wi an with bouillon enough to i cover them, and simmer for half an hour ; then remove them to the other stewpan with the ! vegetables, adding haK a pint of the bouillon. Stew for ten minutes longer, then dish the fowl and reduce the sauce. Pour it hot over the fowl, and serve with pieces of fried eels or cray-fish. Sufficient for five or six persons. Fowl, Minced (a la Bechamel). Put a small (.upful of bechamel sauce, and the same of white stock, into a stewpan, \s-ith the solid white meat of a cold roast fowl, minced ; stir well until it boils up, take off immediately, and put it into a dish. Cover the top with white of egg, and strew very fine bread-crumbs over it. Smear with clarified butter, and brown with a salamander. Time to simmer in the sauce, two or three minutes. Sufficient for a dish. Fowl Pie, Mock Strasburg. This dish is better when made with game, but when expense is considered, rabbits_ and pigeons may be substituted. We, however, give the recipe for game. Bone a pheasant, fowl, and a brace of partridges, and cut the meat into pieces about two inches in length, and a quarter of an inch in thickness. Allow to every pound of meat half a tea-spoonful of salt, a good pinch of pepper, a piece of butter about the size of an Qgg, and four truffles. Put the meat, flavouring, and truffles in a covered baking-dish, arranging, in layers, first meat, then seasoning and butter, then truffles, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Next prepare the gravy, by stewing down the bones of the fowl, pheasant, &c., with a very small piece of garlic, two shallots, some nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of sjilt, one clove, a spoonful of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of brandy, a table-spouuful of sherry, and a pint of water. Stew this until the gravy is reduced to half the quantitj-, when strain, and pour it on the meat. Cover carefidly, and return it to the oven for two hours ; if left uncovered until cold, the butter will rise to the surface. If a covered bakingdish is not at hand, a stone jar wUl answer the purpose, though, in the latter case, the meat would require to be turned out of the jar before sending to table. Probable cost, IBs. to 20s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Fowl Pilau. Stew a young fowl in half a gallon of good veal broth, with the foUowiog spices fastened in a muslin bag : Of cloves, allspice, mace, and peppercorns, each a quarter of an ounce, coriander seed and cinnamon, half an ounce, and forty cardamom seeds, all pounded. Soak one pound of good rice in water for ten minutes, drain and fry it with two ounces of butter until slightly browned, then add it to the broth, and stew until the fowl is tender, and nearly without moisture. Have ready six slices of bacon, curled and grUlod, and a couple of onions, sliced and fried a nice brown. Pile the fowl in the middle of a dish vnth. the rice over it, and garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and hard-boiled eggs. Cut into quarters. Time, half an hour to stow without rice ; half an hour with it. Probable cost, 4s. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Fowl, Poese for. This is a broth to boil fowls in ; it is prepared in the following way : Take two pounds of ham and two poAntis of veal, cut into small pieces ; add two carrots and two onions, also cut, one pound of butter, the juice of four lemons, a pinch of salt and pepper, a couple of laurel-leaves, a sprig of fennal and thjTne, and a spoonful of boiling stock tomoiaten the whole with ; stew until all row ( 225 ) POW the gravy is extracted. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Time to boil, foiir or five hours. Fowl, Potted. Cut the meat o?E the bones of a cold roast fowl. Pound it in a mortar, with butter in the proportion of four ounces to every pound of meat. The skin and griatle should be carefully removed before the meat is weighed, and the butter should bo of the best kind. Add, while pounding, haK a small nutmeg, grated, and a tea-spoonful of mace, pounded, with salt and cayenne. A mixture of ham will be found \eTy relishing ; it should be first grated, and then pounded with the fowl to a smooth paste. Fill small pots, and cover with clarified butter. Keep in a dry place, and tie down with bladder. Fowl (Poulet aux Cressons) . Place a layer of fresh watercresses on a dish ; let them be quite free from moisture ; arrange evenly, and sprinkle salt lightly over them. If vinegar be approved, pour a small quantity over the cresses. A roast fowl may now be laid upon them. It should be of a good brown colour, with a frothed appearance. Serve with gravj", and in a tureen. Time, from half to one hour, according to size. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Fowl, Pulled. Divide a cold fowl into joints, strip oti:' the skin, and pull the meat from the solid white parts in large pieces. Broil the legs and back of the fowl, seasoning them with salt and a good quantity of black popper, dipping each piece into butter before putting it on the gridiron. Warm the pulled white meat in some white sauce, let it be thick and well flavoured with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. ANTien sufliciently heated, put the pulled meat on a dish, and the back and legs of the fowl upon it. Send to table with sliced lemon and sippets. Time, five minutes to broil ; fifteen minutes to heat. Sufficient for a dish. Fowl, HagOUt of. Boil down the inferior parts, bones, kc, of a couple of roast fowls, and cut the joints into neat pieces as for a fricassee. Stew with the trimmings an onion quartered, a couple of shallots, two blades of mace, some lean bits of ham, and a bunch of herbs. Cover with stock or water, and boil i very gently till all the nourishment is extracted, j The bones should be crushed before begirming I to boil. Put a piece of butter into a stewpan and let it melt ; add flour sufficient to absorb the butter, strain the liquor from tho hones into it, j and stir over the fire for a few minutes. Season ' with pepper and salt. Place the pieces of fowl nicely in the gra 'j-, pour in a table-spoonful of I lemon-juice, and about a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Let it get hot, but it should not boil. Serve with the gravj- poured over, and a garnish of croutons. Time, one hour to stew trimmings, half an hour to stew fowl. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of fowl. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Fowl, Rissoles of. Take half a pound of the remains of a cold fowl, without skin or bone, and grate an ounce or two of tongue or ham, then chop aU together until the meat ia quite smooth. Boil down the bones and trimmings with water to cov(;r, a bit of kmon-peel, a piece of a laurel-leaf, and a bit of garlic the size of a peppercorn. Boil until the liquid i.s reduced to about a quarter of a pint, which should be strained and used, at least as mucli as may be required of it, to moisten the meat. Mix -ith the chopped fowl a couple of teaspoonfuls of browned flour, and season it with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; add a teaspoonfiil of chopped parsley, and some of the gra y. When wanted to make into balls (it should first be allowed to stand two or three hours to get firm), have ready beaten egg and finelygrated bread-cr\mibs ; roll the Ijalls a second time into the egg and crumbs that they may be thickly coated, and fry in plenty of boiling lard. Turn them about to get done on all sides alike of a light brown. Serve with a bouquet of fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and the rissoles round it. Time, eight minutes to frj-. Sufficient for six balls. Fowl, Roast. Truss the fowl with the giblets under the wings. Singe it. \ lile roasting, baste often with butter, and sprinkle with flour some minutes before sers-ing to make it look frothy. If Uked stuffed, use a veal stufl g, or a ham forcemeat if the fowl be very large. Serve with plenty of rich light-brown, gravy, and bread or oyster sauce. Time, threequarters to one hour. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Fowl, Roast, To Carve. Insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone ; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if the bird is not old, the joint will give KOAST i'OWL, TO CARVE. way. The wing is next to be broken offhand this is done in the direction .of a to b, only dividing the joint with the knife. The four quarters ha\'ing been removed in this way, take off the merry-thought and the ne 'kbone8; these la.st are to be removed by putting the knife in at c and pressing it, when they will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl, by cutting through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Turn the fowl now back upwards ; put the knife into the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the nmip from you, and take off very neatly the two sidesmen, which completes the operation. The breast and wings are considered the best parts of a roast fowl, but in young birds the legs are the most juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast, just as is done when carving a pheasitnt {.ice Pheasant, To Carve). A boiled fowl is carved much in the same way as a roast fowl. row (226 ) FOW Fowl, Salmi of. Cut the Lirds to be hashed into neatly-shaped pieces. ISkin and remove the fat from them. Boil these with the ti-immings and bones crushed for gravy. Slice a shallot, and add a little mace if liked, but the .salmi may be simply seasoned with cay(;nne, a glass of poit or claret, and some lemon-juice. Thicken with browned iioui-. Lay the pieces of wild fowl into a clean stewpan, pour the gTavy over, and heat all thoroughly, but it should not boil. The spongy, dark suVjstance on the inside of wild fowl is exceedingly bitter, and should not be boiled for gravy. Fowl, Sauce for. Boil two eggs for ten I minutes and pound the yolks with a shallot, ' an anchovj', and a tea-spoonful of mustard; j moisten with two dessert-spoonfuls of vinegar. ! Kub the mixtui-e to a smooth paste, and add by degrees more oil and vinegar, about a tablei poonful of each. iStrain, and send to table in a tiu-een. I'robable cost, 4d. I Fowl, Sausages of. As an accompani- I meut to fricassees, or any made dish of fowl, inake sausages of veal or poultry. Take equal I quantities of the lean white part of the meat and fine bread-crumbs. Scrape half a pound of lean ham, and season with parsley, lemon-thyme, i l ounded mace, salt, and pepper. Mix all together I with the yolk of an egg and a little flour, and ! loll into sausages. t'ry in butter a jght j brown. Or, chop the remains of a turkey or [ fowl, and mix with fat bacon in equal quantities. Pound the mixtuie in a mortar with an anchovy, a little sage, salt, and pepper. Fry j these sausages as a nice supper dish, and garnish with fried sippets. A sweetbread with , .s'lusagcs piled lound it is an excellent one. Fowl Scallops. l Iince the meat of a cold i fowl very line, season with salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg and cayenne, and a shred of : lemon-peel. Put this over the tire in a litt e thin cream or wliite broth. When thoroughly wanned thi'ough (not boiled), pour into clean I buttered scallop-shells. Strew with bread- i criunbs until covered, and on the top put bits I of butter. Brown the bread-crumbs twenty ! minutes in the oven. ' Fowl, Scallops, (a la Bechamel). Eoast a couple of fine fowls, and when done, remove them from the spit. Cut with a sharp knife all the flesh in one piece from the breasts and wings. Pull oif the skin, and slice the meat thinly into small scallops, which arrange on a hut ilish. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and pour 1 boiling sauce (bechamel) over. If cold fowls ? hv used, dip the scallops one by one into clarified butter and fiy, but do not brown. Drain off the butter, anil pile in the middle of a hot dish. Sauce as above. Time, four minutes to fry. ! Probable cost, exclusive of fowls, 8d. Suflicient for an cntrtv. Fowl, To Boil. Pick, singe, and truss the j fowl, with the heart, liver, and gizzard inside. ' Tie it securely, and plunge into boiling water. ! Add a little salt, remove the scum carefully, and \ boil gently for about three-quarters of an hoiu'. j Serve with ham, tongue, or bacon. For sauce, i either parsley, lemon, or oyster sauce is suitable. A little should be poui'cd over the fowl, and the remainder should be served in a tureen. Fowl, To Bone, without opening it. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of the breastbone, if necessary : work the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh ; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it. Take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut round the next bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is done. Kemove the bones of the other leg in the same manner ; then detach the flesh from the back and breastbone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings ; proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint. It is usual to leave the pinions imbound, in order to give more easily its natural form to the f*wl when it is dressed. The merry-thought and neckbones may now easily be cut away, the back and sidebones taken out without being divided, and the breastbone separated easily from the flesh, which, as the work progresses, must be tui-ned back from the bones upon the fowl, until it is completely inside out. After the one remaining bone is removed, draw the -wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl right side outwards. Bone a turkey in the same manner, but as it requires a large amount of forcemeat to till it entirely, the legs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of this. If very secui-ely trussed and sewai, the bird may be either boiled or stewed in rich gravj% as weU as roasted, after being boned and forced ; but it must be gently cooled, or it may burst. Or : Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the flesh carefully on either side with the point ?f a sharp knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be better to bone these joints before proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole of the body may easily be taken out entu-e ; only the neckbones and merry-thought will then remain to be removed. The bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body, with the legs of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest bacon, or anything else of good flavour, which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved, and then be sewn up and trussed as usual ; or the legs and wings may be di'awn inside the body, and the bird being first flattened on a table may be covered vith sausage-meat and the various other ingre row (227) FOW iients named, so placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightly lolled, hound firmly together Avith a fillet of broad tape, wTapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and diessed as follows : Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick ii'on .saucepan, bright on the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size ; add all the chicken bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two bay leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and any trimmings or bones of undi'essed veal which may be at hand. Cover the whole with good veal broth, add salt if needed, and stew very softly from an hoiu- and a quarter to' an hour and a haK. Let the bird cool in the liquor in which it was stewed, and after it is lifted out, boil down the gravy to a jeUy and strain it. Let it become cold, clear off the fat, and sei-ve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the fowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of being rolled, the bird must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent to table hot, covered with mushi-oom, or any other good sauce that may be pref eiTed ; or it may be left imtil the following day, and served garnished with the jelly, which should be firm and very clear and well flavoured. The liquor in which a caK's foot has been boiled down, added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence. French cooks add three or four onions to these preparations of poultry (the last of which is called a " galantine"). Sufficient for a pie, two fowls bound and roUed. Fowl, To Dress. Pound together in a mortar two ounces of fat bacon and the same ?of suet. Mince two ounces of veal and grate the same weight of lean ham. Blend all in a mortar, and beat in the yolks of two hard- j boiled eggs and a tea-cupful of bread-cnmibs. \ Flavour with an ancho\y, salt, and pepper to i taste, and mix to a smooth paste with three i well-beaten eggs. Stuff a young, boned fowl j with this forcemeat, truss it with the legs and i wings dra NTi inward, and put it into a ste-wq an I wdth a little white chicken or veal broth. When [ it has stewed one houi-, take it out on a hot ! dish ; boil up the gravy, and stir in a piece of butter rolled in flour and a cupful of cream. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Sxifficient for three persons. Fowl, To Hash.. Boil down the bones and trimmings of a roast or boiled fowl with a pint i of stock ; put in an onion or shaUot, the rind of ' half a lemon, two blades of mace, pepper, and : salt. Have ready in a clean stewpan the fowl, neatly arranged, and when the gravy has simmered haK an hour strain it over, and add two oimces of buttcT roUed in flour, and two dessertspoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Serve with sippets of toasted bread. Time altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable Cost, ex- ' elusive of fowl, 5d. Sufiicient for three or four ; ])ersons. Fowl, To Roast (German method) . Roast I for half an hour before the fire a fine fowl that , has been well larded and stuft'ed A\ath force- ' meat. Take it from the spit and remove to a stewpan. Put butter over the breast, sprinkle ] it with salt, and pour in a cup of milk or nice veal broth. Cover it closely, but baste and steam slowly. When tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour, serve the fowl with the sauce thickened in the dish, and a garnish of sliced lemon. Use about a teaspoonful of arrowroot or corn-flour for the thickening. Fowl, To Souse. Take a fowl hot from the spit, one that has been well basted with butter. Cut it into joints, and laj' them in a hot deep dish. Have ready two or three onions, shred very fine, sprinkle them over the fowl with a small table-spoonful of pepper and salt mixed. Pom* over all a pint of boiling water, and cover so that no steam shall escape. Do not uncover until quite cold. The joints of a cold fowl may be prepared as above, and then heated in a saucepan. Eemove the meat as soon as the liquid boils, and cover closely. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Probable cost of fowl, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Fowl, To Stew. Truss a fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan containing a quart of good gravy ; add a head of celerj-, cut into j)ieces of an inch in length, pepper, salt, and a blade or two of mace. The fowl should be protected from the bottom of the stewpan ; use four- bright skewers for this purpose ; rest the fowl upon them, and stew till the gra\y is reduced to less than half its original quantity. Put the fowl on a hot dish, thicken the sauce with two ounces of butter rolled in floui-; season to taste, and add a glass of ketchup. Serve hot with the sauce poui-ed over. Time, one hour and a half to stew. Sufiicient for a dish. Fowl, To Truss (Boiled). Pluck, di-aw, singe, and wash the fowl inside and outside, then wipe it. Cut off the neck even with the back, but leave enough skiii to roU back neatly. Take off the feet, and insert the legs in a sHt of the skin made in the sides. Pass a skewer through the leg and the bottom of the M-ing (the other part of the wing should be twisted over the back) through the body ; do the same on both sides. Poll and skewer the skin of the neck, and put the rump through a slit made in the ajDron. Secure with string across the tops of the legs, and make all firm before boiling. White-legged' fowls are best in point of colour for boiling. Fowl, To Truss (Roast). Pluck, draw, singe, but do not wash the fowl. Wipe it with a couiDle of clean cloths, and use white paper when singeing it. Cut off the head and neck, and fold the skin oA-er the back. Scald and scrape the legs, cutting off the claws, and fasten the pinions and logs -with a skewer long enough tc -iecure the other pinion and leg. Put the liver in one wing and the gizzard in the other, and skewer the fowl fii-mly before it is put to the spit. A trussing-needle threaded with twine should be used for this purpose; bring it through the backbone, and secui-e the string on the other side. Fowl, Veal, or Rabbit Curry. Cut a fowl or rabbit into neat pieces, and some veal into slices, dredge them with flour, and cover row ( 228 ) FRA ?with curry-powder; fry till bro-w-n in butter. Sprinkle finely-shred onion during the frj'ing, and when the meat is half done, and of a pale brown, pour in some white stock, and finish the cooking; add a little lemon -juice, and serve hot. Fowl, White Oyster Sauce for. Strain the liquor from a pint of oj-sters that have been scalded, but not boiled. Put into a atewpan the strained liquor, a quarter of a pound of butter, blended with flour, a little lemon-rind, a blade of mace pounded, and very little cayenne. Stir in three or four table-spoonfuls of cream, and continue to stir till the sauce is thick ; then pour it over the scalded oysters, which should pre-\'iously have been washed and bearded, and put into a clean saucepan. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, move the sauce round for a minute or two, then serve in a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 9d. to is. per dozen. Sufficient for a Ixirge tureen. Fowl with Ham, Potted. Chop together six ounces of cooked ham and the meat of a hot roast chicken ; pound these in a mortar, with four ounces of butter. Boil down the bones of the chicken with the skin and the gravy from the roasting, season with salt, pepper, mace, and cayenne ; reduce the mixture to a glaze, and add it to the pounded meat. Press the fowl and ham into shallow earthen pots, cover \vith clarified butter, and store in a cool place. Fowl, with Macaroni. Cut up a fowl into neat pieces, and mulce a seasoning of pepper and salt a salt-spoonful of each and a little grated nutmeg ; roll the pieces in the sfasoning, dredge them with browned flour, and iry lightly, using oil or butter. Stew the bones and trimmings ; put them into a stewpan with a quart of water, or broth from the boiling of veal, if at hand, a carrot, a sliced onion, a piece of garlic about the size of a pea, a small bunch of parsley, a clove or two, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and two of grated cheese, with salt to taste. When the bones, &c., have stewed an hour, or more, strain. Have ready a stewpan, containing three ounces of dissolved butter, place five or six ounces of good macaroni, previously soaked an hour in water, into it, pour the strained gra y over, and simmer until soft ; then arrange the fowl in the centre of a dish, with the macaroni as a wall round it. Pour half a wine-glass of Marsala into the gra-\y,make it hot, and serve thrown over the fowl. Time to fry fowl, ten minutes ; to simmer macaroni, one hour and a half. Sufficient for four or five persona. Fowl, with Onions. Pluck, draw, singe, and wash a fowl, and truss as if for boiling; lay it, with a pint of white broth, in a saucepan. The pan should be previously rubbed with butter, and the fowl should also be smeared with it. Season to taste with pepper and salt, and stew gently for half an hour; then add a dozen and a half of small onions, and stew another half hour. The fowl shoidd be turned three or four times during the cooking. Probable cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Fowl, with Oysters.- A fowl, cooked, according to the following recipe, will have a decided superiority of flavour over one boiled in the usual way. Put a young fowl, well filled with oysters, from which the beards have been removed, into a stone jar, and the jar again into a saucepan of water. Cover the jar to prevent the steam escaping, and stew gently. The gravy in the jar, of which there will be a sufficient quantity to serve with the fowl, may be made, -with the addition of an e i g and a little cream, into a white sauce ; or it may be simply thickened -with butter and flour. Time, one hour and a half to stew. Oysters, Is. 9d. to 2s. per dozen. Fowl, with Peas. Frj' the remains of a cold roast fowl in two ounces of butter until they are of a good brown colour. Have ready on a I plate a little flour, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, I and pounded mace. Mix these ingredients well, I and turn each piece of fowl as it comes from the j frj-ing-pan, in the mixture. Place a stewpan over j the fire, with half a pint of broth or gravy, a pint I of peas, and a tea-spoonful of sugar ; into this [ put the fowl, and stew until the peas are tender. I Serve the peas round the pieces of fowl. Time, I half an hour to stew peas ; ten minutes to frj' ! fowl. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl, 8d. ! Fowl, with nice. Prepare the fowl as I if for boiling; cover with water, or good veal I broth, if at hand. Skim well while boiling, I and put into the saucepan, half an hour before the fowl is cooked, a quarter of a poimd of rice, j salt, pepper, and an onion. Stew very gently i till tender. Take out the fowl, strain the rice, and put the latter before the fije to swell ; thicken I the broth with flour and butter ; serve the fowl I on the centre of a dish, with the rice round, and i the sauce over all. The delicate appearance of the fowl wiU be spoiled if the rice be not well1 washed, and the scum carefully removed. Time, 1 one hour to boil fowl ; half an hour to stew j rice. Probable cost, 43. Sufficient for four or five persons. I Fowl, with Rice Croquettes. Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of good broth, and let it simmer, afterwards adding two or three ounces of butter, until the liquid has evaporated, and the rice is left quite dry. Mould the rice into balls ; insert a spoon, and press the rice in the middle, so as to form a hollow, which fill with minced fowl, moistened slightly with bechamel sauce. Close the opening with some more rice, and frj', dipping each ball into egg, and roUing it in bread-crumbs. When of a nice brown, serve with a garnish of fried parsley. Time, half an hour to boil rice ; ten minutes to fry croquettes. Probable cost, Sd., exclusive of fowl. Frangipane. Beat six eggs until light, add to them gradually a pint of new milk and two table-spoonfuls of flour. Put the mixture over the fire in a clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and when close at the boiling point andthickish, stir in two ounces of cru.shed ratafias, a glass of rum or brandy, some grated lemon-rind, and two ounces of butter, browned slightly in a clean pan. This dehcious creamy preparation is an excellent substitute for custard. ERA ( 229 ) FBE It can be flavom-ed with vanilla, orange-flower, or cofliee, to suit the dish it is wanted for. The French use it to fill tartlets or cover fruit tarts. Probable cost, Is. 3d. for this quantity, exclusive of spii-its. Frankfort Sausages. Mince very finely one pound of lean pork, from the shoulder, with thi-ee ounces of fat bacon ; add a little red wine diiring the mincing process, just enough to keep the meat moist. Season with equal quantities of black pepper and ground coriander seed, a little nutmeg grated, and salt to taste. Fill skins these should be scrupulously clean, well.soaked in salt and water, and wiped dry before being used. Biead soaked in milk or water, iind squeezed dry, is sometimes used, either to increase the quantity, or to make the sausages less rich. Allow the same quantity of bread as of fat. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable cost for this quantity, Is. 3d. Prench Cake. Mix equal quantities of fine flour and groxmd rice together, half a pound of eafe'h. Put these into a bowl, with a pound of finely-sifted sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and four ounces of sweet, and one of bitter, almonds, pounded together with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Beat twelve ?eggs separately, yolks from whites, and then mix with the above ingredients, until the whole are thoroughly blended. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. French. Fritters. Dissolve two ounces of butter in half a pint of wax-m milk; blend with it ten ounces of flour, and work it till it is quite smooth. Whisk the whites of two eggs; idd them to the batter just before use, as the lightness will depend on this mainly. Season with salt, &c., if for vegetables; or sweeten with sugar if for fi'j'ing fruit. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 7d. for this ?quantity. French Fritters (another way). Jlix two large table-spoonfuls of floui- with as much wai-m water as wiU make it into a stiff paste ; beat up the whites and yolks separately of two eggs ; add the yolks to the paste, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, enough sugar to sweeten, and, lastlv, the whites of the eggs, which should be a stiff froth before being added. Drop the batter from a spoon, and fry in plenty of boiling lard. This preperation is excellent for fruit fritters, such as apples, peaches, oranges, etc. Time, about ten minutes to fry with fruit. Probable cost, 6d. French Gauffres.- Separate eight eggs, yolks from whites ; beat the yelks tiU light, and froth the whites. Put eight ounces of flour and a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix the beaten yolks of eggs, a glass of noyeau or any liquor preferred, and some pounded vanilla, with the flour; add a pint of whipped cream by slow Iegrees, and the whites of eggs lastly and lightly, that they may be well blended with the whole batter. Heat the gauffre-irons, and smear them with clarified butter, fill with the batter, and bake over a light charcoal fire ; turn the irons that the gauffres may be evenly coloured ; and when turned out, make them neat with a pair of scissors, and drj- before the fire on paper. When dry, shake vanilla, orange, or lemon sugar over them, and serve piled high on a napkin. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. French Jelly. Gather fresh sound fruit for this purpose ; strawbeiTies, cherries, grapes, and currants do weU for it. Prepare a quart of clear jelly, and cover the bottom of a mould with it. When it has had time to harden, make a border of fruit, and place it tastefully round the edge; cover with jelly, which must harden as before, and continue to fill the mould in the same manner. Preserved fruits may be arranged with good effect between the jeUy in the mould and as a garnish around it. French Melted Butter. Melt over the fire, in a clean saucepan, four ounces of good I fresh butter, and keep moving the saucepan round in one direction until the butter is quite hot. Or, blend together four ounces of good fresh butter and a table-spoonful of flour. Put these ingredients into a saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls of water, half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a flavouring of nutmeg and salt. Stir over the fire to thicken, but do not let the mixture boil. Time, about five minutes. Butter, Is. 6d. per pound. French Pancakes. Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, and beat two eggs till they are Hght : blend -nath these two ounces of fine flour, and the same weight of powdered sugar. Thin the mixture by adding gradually half a pint of new milk. Bake on buttered tin plates, and beat the mixture until it is poured upon them to be put into the oven. Bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. Serve piled high on a dish ; a cut lemon and sifted sugar should accompany, or the pancakes may have a layer of preserve between each. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three or four persons. French Pie. Line a dish with puff paste, and fill it Mith a mince of cold roast veal and grated ham; add two dozen oysters, bearded, which place, with a good seasoning of salt, mace, and lemon-peel, in alternate layers with the meat. Pour in a small cup of gravy, the liquor from the oj'sters, and a table -spoonful of mushroom ketchup, mixed together. Cover with paste, and remove from the oven when the paste is done. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost of oysters, Is. 9d. to 2s. per dozen. Two pounds of mince is sufficient for five or six persons. French Plum Pudding. Put haK a pound of flour into a basin with about a saltspoonful of salt ; beat up separately four yolks and two whites of eggs; stir the yolks, with half a pint of cream, into the flour. Boil one pound of good French plums; put boiling water on them, and continue to simmer tiU the stones will come out easily. Remove the stones ; drain off the moisture from the fruit, and stir it and also the frothed whites of eggs, into the batter. Do not boil in a basin ; the pudding is best in a floured cloth+ which should not be tied too closely, as the contents -will swell in boiling. Time," two hours to boil. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. FBE ( 290 ) FBE Prencli Plums, Stewed. Put enough water in a clean stewpan to cover a pound and a half of French plums, stew them for an hour, then strain and boil the water, threequarters of a pint, with a pound of loaf sugar. AMien it has boiled, and been well skimmed, and is quite clear, add the rind and juice of a lemon with the plums, and simmer very gently. A glass of port wine vill improve the flavour and appearance of the fruit, and may be added at the same time with the plums. Serve in a glass dish. Time, two hours and three-quarters to stew ; to simmer, one hour and a haK. Probable cost of plums, Is. per poimd. Sufficient for a large dish. French Plum Tart. Stew French plums with sugar, in the proportion of half to the weight of fruit. Put half a pound of plums and a quarter of a pound of sugar, with half a glass of water or red wine into a stewpan ; cover, and stew vorv' gently until the stones can be taken away easily. Crush a part of them, and put the kernels with the plums in the stewpan. Edge a dish with puff paste, put in the pliuns, &c., cover with a paste, bake, and serve hot. Time, throe-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a small tart. i French. Pudding. Mix ten table-spoon- ! f uls of flour with a quart of milk ; beat up six I eggs, and add them to the batter. Pour it into a buttered tin, and bake half an hour. Serve quickly, with sherry sauce. Probable cost, Is. French Raised Pie. It will require some ])n((tirf t(i mould the paste for this i ie to the desired shape, but ha\'ing succeeded in making the paste, which is sometimes simply made of floui', mixed with boihng water, in which a little lard is dissolved, and is not intended to be, eaten, the rest of the work is easy enough. Mould according to the hints given by the celebrated Monsieur Ude, of which the following is a copy : " Take a lump of paste, according to the size of the pie you are to make, mould it in the shape of a sugar-loaf, put it uplight on the table, and with the palms of your hands flatten the sides of it; when you have equahsed it all round, and it is quite smooth, squeeze the point of the cone down to half the height of the paste ; then hollow the inside by pressing it with the fingers, and in doing this be careful to keep it in every part of equal thickness. FiU it. roll out the cover, egg the edges, press them securely together, make a hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste round it, and encircle this with a wreath of leaves, or ornament the pie in any other way, according to taste; glaze it with the beaten yolk of egg, and bake it from two to three hours in a well-heated oven, if it be small, and from foui- to five hours if it be large ; the time must be regulated by the nature of the contents and size of the dish. When baked, fill with game, poultry, or a fricassee of chicken, rabbit, &c. Serve on a napkin. French Rolls. Rub together a pound of flour and an ounce of butter ; when well blended mix -with, the flour and butter a small quantity of yeast vrith enough milk to form a stiff dough, an egg, and a little salt. Do not knead the dough, but use a wooden spoon, let it rise, and bake on tins. WTien brown and ready to be taken out of the oven, brush over with beaten egg, and keep the rolls a minute or two longer to dry. Time, from fifteen to twenty minoites to bake. Probable cost. Id. Sufficient for six rolls. French Salad. It would be difficult to particularize a French salad. It is composed of everything or anything. Many improvised dishes of salad, such as beans, potatoes, cauliflower, and celery (cooked), are served at a French table, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped tan-agon, or a little tarragon A-inegar. Fish salads, too, are highly relished, namely, the remains of any solid fish, such as cod, sole, or turbot, for which the following sauce will be found excellent, as it ?will be also for a lettuce or other vegetable salad : Bruise the yolks of two hard-boUed eggs with a wooden spoon, and moisten with a raw egg ; put this egg-mixtui-e into a bowl, -ndth two salt-spoonfuls of salt, a little pepper, and a pinch of cayenne ; add by degrees oil and vinegar, alternately, until the required quantity, three table-spoonfuls of oil and one of vinegar, which may be tarragon, has been mixed. Keep the sauce stuTcd and well smoothed with the spoon. Add half a teaspoonf ul of shred onion, and the same of chervil and tarragon, if plain vinegar has been used with the oil. Two table-spoonfuls of thick cream or melted butter will make the sauce richer and better, and the whites of eggs may be chopped and added to the salad. French Sausages. Take equal poi-tions of fat bacon and lean pork, one pound of each ; mince them. Blanch and parboil a sweetbread for half an hour, also three or four fowls' livers. Put all into a mortar, with salt, pejiper, half a tea-spoonful of sugar, the same of saltpetre, and a little mace. Wash, brush, andjpeel two truffles, and add them, with a clove of garlic. AVhen rubbed together, and reduced to a smooth mass, sprinkle a dozen peppercorns over the meat ; and as the skias are being filled, some verj' thin long strips of bacon may be added, if the meat is not considered sufficiently rich; these can be put in easily when the skins are large. Hang to dry. The sausages may be eaten cooked or otherwise, but they are best cold, Time, five minutes to boil livers. French SoufiB.e. Put a piece of butter, the size of a small egg, and stir it over the fii-e, in a clean saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls of flour. "V Hien thick (it must not brown), have ready half a pint of boiling milk and two tablespoonfuls of cream, and stu- the whole together. Pour it up into a bowl when smooth and thick, and flavour with maraschino, noyeau, or to taste. Beat up the yolks of five eggs, vnth two ounces of pounded sugar ; add them, wdth the whites of eight eggs whisked to a stifl' froth, and bake carefully in a souffle dish. Time, about one hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. for this quantity. French Supper Dish. Cut neat pieces of bread of uniform size, about three inches square, fry them delicately in butter, and set them before the fire on a hot dish. Stew a few muscatel raisins in a little sweet wine and some iRE (231 ) PRO suirar. Cover the pieces of bread with them, or Wcirm some preserve, by placing it over boilin : water, and serve with the preserve on the top of each piece. I'ime, half an hoiir to prepare. French. Timbale. Line a round weUbuttered mould with short paste, and put a thiu layer of forcemeat to correspond, composed of calf's livef and bacon pounded, and highly seasoned with mace, nutmeg, lemonpeel, 'marjoram, thyme, and a couple of cloves of garlic (the bacon and liver should be semifried sei+rately before being pounded), cayenne pepper, and salt. Lard a piece of the hllet of veal, about thi-ee pounds, and cut it in thick slices across the grain of the meat. Fill up the mould with alteinate layers of the veal, small thin slices of boiled ham, and the forcemeat, not forgetting to season with herbs and spices as above Roll out paste for a cover ; see that it is even roimd the edge, and securely closed ; pinch it roimd with pastry pincers. ]Make an ornament of leaves with some of the paste, brush with agg, and bake in a moderate oven. When done, and the heat has passed from it, pour in a tliin glaze through the top, made from the bones and trimmings of veal, and some jelly of calf's foot. Time, two hours and a half to bake. Probable cost of veal. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Friar's Chicken Soup. Cut up three nice plump chickens, or a couple of young fowls. Put them into a saucepan, with the broth from the boiling of a knuckle of veal, or two quarts 4)f water if more convenient. Bhred some l arsley, and when the chickens have been boilijig half an hour, put them into the saucepan, and simmer another half hour, when stir in the ? luile of four well-beaten eggs, and remove at once from the lii-e. Flavour to taste, with salt and pepper. Probable cost, according to season. Friar's Omelet. Make a light batter of three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of butter (melted), two of sugar, and half a dozen stewed apples, reduced to a pulp. When well beaten together, fry as an omelet in butter. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Fricandellans. Take two pounds of beef, tender, and free from bone, gristle, or fat ; mince, and then pound it with twelve ounces of slu-ed suet ; flavour with salt, black pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. When pounded to a smooth paste, add half a pint of thick cream, f(jur eggs, well beaten, and as much breadcrumbs as may be found necessary. Make the paste up into the usual oblong form, and boil in boiling stock ten minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 9d. for this quantity. Fricandelle, Boiled. TTse any meat for tliis dish. If veal, choj) the fat and lean together; but if mutton, remove the fat, and take butter instead. Chop one pound of cold roast veal, season with pepjjer, salt, and a little nutmeg, lix bread-crumbs, and break an ounce of butter into bits with them ; add a little good veal gravy, and a couple of eggs. Mix well, and press into a buttered mould. When boiled tlie fricandelle should be turned out, and served with a brovsTi gravy over it. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold ' meat. Sufficient, one pound of meat for two or three persons. Fricandelles, Fried. IVIince first, and then pound together, beef and suet, in thepropoi tion of a quarter of a pound of suet to one poimd of meat, lloast, or any cold beef may be used, but [ uncooked meat is best. Smooth to a paste with I an egg or two, and a little water. Add three ounces of fine bread-crumbs, a little shred I onion, salt, and pepper. Make into egg-shaped balls, and fry, in butter to a delicate brown; I or, they may be baked vnih a mixture of I mashed potatoes as a substitute for bread, and \ fat bacon instead of suet. Time, ten minutes j to fry. Beef, Is. per pound. Fricassee Chaudfroid. Put a nice plump chicken, trussed as for boiling, into a I saucepan, with a quart of veal stock, and boil and skim in the usual way. When done, put ! the chicken on a dish, and boil a pint of the j stock with a few mushi-ooms, until reduced; I then, with the stewpan removed from the fire, j stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and half a pint of cream. Season well with nutmeg, I pepper, and salt, and stir in the juice of haU' a I lemon, and a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar. Stir over the fire for a little time, but do not boil. Cover the chicken with the sauce, which should be cut up and piled high in the centre of a dish. Garnish with aspic jelly. Time, half an hour- to boil chicken. Fromage Cuit. Moisten eight or ten ounces of good cheese, broken into small bits, with half a pint of thick cream. Rub it smooth in a mortar, and add two eggs, with the 'hite of one, both beaten together, and a pinch of cayenne. Bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. ? 'uFrontignac. Put the whites of two wellbeaten eggs, with eighteen pounds of good loaf sugar, in a vessel containing six gallons of water. Take ofl: the scum when it boils, and throw in half a gallon of elder-flowers; now let ', the liquor cool, and stir in a glass and a half of j lemon- juice and four or five spoonfuls of yeast, i which should be well mixed up with it. Put in I half a dozen pounds of the best raisins, weighed j after being stoned, stir it ever\' day, pour it [ into a cask, and stop it close. It improves by I keeping. Time, bottle in six months. Frost, or Icing, for Cakes. The 1 quality of the sugar sliould be attended to for I this icing. Procure of the best double refined i sugar, twelve ounces, and sift it ; whisk the ! whites of four eggs to a strong froth, and stir i in the sugar by degrees, beating the whole time j to make it smooth; mix in the strained jiuce of I half a lemon, and lay on the preparation while j the cakes are hot, smoothing it equally all over I with a flat spoon or broad knife. Let it harden in a cool oven; see that it is not hot enough to coloiu- the icing. Froth, to set on Creams, Custard, &e. Beat the whites of four or fivi f-ggs to a froth ; stew damsons, or any other fruit, until they can be pulped thi-ough a sieve, then beat the pulp with the frothed eggs until the fork will stand ui right in it. Put it with a spoon on the top of tniie, cream, or custard ; it should PRU ( 232 ) PBU look rocky, so put it on as roughly as possible. Time, boat until the whole is a stiff froth. Pmit Biscuits. Put, with three pounds of raspborries or other fruit, from which the juice has been extracted either in the oven or by setting the jar in a pan of boiling water the same weight of finely-sifted sugar ; but before doing so, pulp the fruit through a sieve, and when the sugar has been added, beat the mass until no moisture remains. The juice may be boiled for jelly, and the paste put into I)aper moulds, about an inch thick, to be dried in a cool oven. Time, a whole day to cool. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Fruit, Compote of, Mixed. Boil ten ounces of sugar and half a pint of water ten minutes; take the stalks from a quart of red currants and let them simmer with the same quantity of raspberries from eight to ten minutes in the syrup. Get ripe, but sound raspberries, and see that they are free from moisture before they are put into the syrup. Fruit Cream for Tarts. A very nice cream for fruit tarts is made by boiling peach or laurel-leaves (to extract their iiavour) in milk. Two or three leaves in a quart of milk ?will be sufficient. Boil until flavoiired ; add, when strained and sweetened, four well- whisked eggs; heat it, stirring steadily until thick, but it must not boil. This cream is eaten also with stewed fruit of any kind. Fruit, Dish of Mixed. In the months of September and October the most fa.stidious fancy may be gratified through the facility DISH OP MIXED FRUIT. afforded of collecting a variety of mixed fruits for a centre dish. It only requires taste, with proper regard to colour and contrast, to eft'ect a delicious and most attractive coi(p d'ceil. One ornament for the centre of a dinner-table is a large gilt basket of some graceful shape, filled with every kind of fruit, interspersed with moss and fern-leaves. Apples, pears, peaches. pine-apples, and grapes would form a lovely combination for autumn fruits, the crevices filled up with scarlet geraniimis and maidenhair fern ; this for a centre-piece, surrounded by specimen glasses, with a rose or camelia in each, would form a most attractive coup d'ce'd. There are so many ways, however, of displaj-ing taste in dressing the centre of a table and of aiTanging fruit desserts, that it is best left to each individual fancy. Suffice it to say, that the dish should never be too full, and always garnished in some way, either with leaves or tiny sprays of flowers, or even embroidered paper, which can be bought for the purpose, and that all fruit intended for table should ise carefully wiped with a cloth before an-anging on the (?sh. Fruit Fritters. Fritters may be much unproved by adding fruit to the batter, but it -svill require to be made thicker than for ordinary fritters. The following recipe will serve for many kinds of fruits, and also for vegetables : Warm half a pint of milk, in which stir two ounces of butter ; make it into a batter, with about ten oimces of flour. Sweeten to taste, and flavour with nutmeg, cinnamon, &c., and a glass of any liquor or brandy. Stir in the whites of two eggs well whisked, and fry at once, in boiling butter or lard Fruits, such as pine-apple, apple, orange, peach, kc, should be cut in sUces, dipped in the batter, fried nicely, and when dried before the fire, strewed ?Nvith sifted sugar. Such fruits as strawberries, cherries, apricots, atmeg, cinnamon, and sweeten to taste. Do not boil again, but stir for a few minutes over the fire. It is sometimes served in cups, with brandy as an additional flavouring. Time to boil wheat, three to four hours ; to simmer with milk, twenty minutes. Fry, To. To fry anything is to boil it in hot fat, and this operation is too frequently badly performed, owing to ignorance on the parti of those who engage in it with regard to two or three points which require close attention. When well done it is a satisfactory mode of cooking small portions of meat and poultry, is especially suited for fish, and is generally well liked. When despatch is necessary, it is the most convenient method, as a half burnt-out fire is the one best adapted for it. Everything used for frjnng, whether dripping, the sldmmings of saucepans, oil, lard, or butter, should be sweet, clean, fresh, and free from salt. The latter qualification is desirable, because salt keeps whatever is fried in it from browning properly. Fresh sweet dripping and the clarified skimmings of saucepans are to be preferred to any other fat for frying. Lard is not so good, because it leaves the appearance of fat on whatever is cooked in it, and this does not look well. Butter heats very quickly, and so there is danger of burning when it is used ; it also requires a slow fire, but is not so objectionable if it is clarified before being put into the pan. (Jil, which is often spoken of as the best thing for this purpose, is certainly very good, but it requires great care and experience. It should be FRYIHG-PANS. heated gently over a slow fire, as it has a tendency to rise quickly and boil over, and it must have at least twenty-five minutes heating bef on* it is ready for use. AU fat after being used foi frying should be allowed to cool for a few minutes, and then should be strained through a gravy-strainer into a clean earthenware jar. The cooling is necessary to prevent the hot fat melting the strainer. The same fat may, with caie, be used several times. When it acquires a dark brown burnt colour it is no longer fit for use. Care should be taken that fat which ha? been once used for fish should be kept exclusively for that purpose, and not used for anything else. The fire under the frying-pan must be clear, brisk, and free from smoke and flame. A mixture of cinders and coke make a fire most suited for this purpose. A handful of salt thrown upon it will help to make it clear. There ought properly to be two frying-pans for use in each kitchen one a frying kettle, to be kept exclusively for fish, four inches deep, thirteen inches long, and eleven inches wide, wdth a wire drainer fitted into the bottom of it, upon which the article can be placed and lifted out, when done, by two handles; and the other smaller, for cutlets, patties, croquettes, &c. The two, however, are not to be found in every kitchen, and a cook must make the best of the materials she has at command. She can, at any rate, see that her pan is perfectly clean, and free from damp and dust. It should never be more than half -filled with fat, for fear it should rise too high in the pan, and boil over. One great secret of success in frying is, to allow the fat to attain the proper degree of heat before placing whatever is to be cooked in it. This varies, of course, according to the nature of the article. Fat is quite hot when it ceases hissing, and is still. In order to be quite certain on this point, hold a small piece of bread in the pan for five or six seconds. If, when it is taken out, it is crisp and brown, put in immediately what you wish to cook ; if the bread is burnt, the fat is too FRY ( 236 ) GAL hot ; if it is pale and soft, it is not hot enough. All iish which is to be fried requires a certain amount of preparation. After being washed and gutted, it must be well dried. To insure this, it should first be patted all over with a soft cloth, and afterwards di-edged with flour. The preparation should then be finished in one of two ways. The first is to dip the fish into an egg, which has been well beaten, for three or foui- minutes, and mixed with a teaspoonful of oil and a tea-spoonful of cold water, and then to cover it all over with bread-crumbs made from stale bread, which has been finely grated. The second is to dip it into a batter made of flour and water of the consistency of thick cream ; this batter is improved by the addition of a beaten egg, though it is very good without. For inexperienced cooks the latter plan is much the best. It is well to have at hand some light brown bread-raspings, such as are used for hams. They can be obtained at the baker's, price Id. for a bag containing about a pint, or, if it is necessary to prepare them at home, can be easily made from crusts of bread which have been kept in a slow oven till they are browned all over, and then have been rolled, pounded, and sifted, till they are as fine as possible. The baker's raspings will require this. They should then be put into a box with a closely-fitting lid, and stored in a dry place,' and they will keep any length of time. After drying, flouring, egging, and bread-crumbing the fish, sj rinkle a few of these crumbs lightly over the toj , and press them down with the fingers. They will insure the appearance being good ; and, if after cooking, any spot is deficient, sprinkle a few more on that place. The fat in which fish rissoles, croquettes, patties, cutlets, and all sinular articles are fried, should be sufliciently deep to cover them entirely, so that they may truly be said to be boiled in hot fat. As we should never say that we had boiled a piece of meat if we had put a spoonful of water j at the bottom of the saucepan, and placed the meat upon it, so we cannot say that we have properly fried fish, &c., if we merely place a small quantity of dripping or butter at the bottom of the frying-pan, and lay the article to be cooked on it. If the proper depth cannot bo obtained, the fat must, at any rate, be sufficiently deep to dip the fish into, and then first one side can be done, and then the other. In tiu-ning a fish, the fork should be stuck into the head. If the frying-pan is so short that it cannot be XDut in whole, it is best to cut it right across into slices ; fry these sepai'ately, then place them on the dish in the form in which they were before they were cut. The time requu'ed for frying depends upon the nature of the article and the depth of the fat, so that no rule can be given. By experience the cook will soon be able to tell when it is done enough ; and if the raspings are used, it need not remain on the fire any longer in order to blown them. The flesh of fish ought to leave the bone easily, and should have a moist appearance. Mullet should be vl?apped in buttered paper before being fried. Lastly, it must be remembered, that all fried dishes, when served without sauce, should be di-ied thoroughly before '" eing sent to table. Ta accromplish this, wrap them in blotting-paper, or place them on a reversed sieve, or in a cloth before the fire, and turn them two or three times, so that each side may be equally di-ied. Fun Pudding. Mix a couple of spoonfuls of arrowroot with half a pint of milk and the same of cream. Put it into a stewpan. with sugar to sweeten. 8tir imtil it boils, Have ready sliced apples enough to fill a largesized dish ; they should be shced thin, and sugar should be strewn between the slices. Put bits of butter over the apples, and turn out a pot of apricot jam as the next layer. Over all throw the mixture of arrowroot, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. G Gala Pudding (sometimes called General Satisfaction Pudding) . Mix one table-spoonful of flour smoothly with two of new milk. Pour over it a cupful of boiling milk, flavoured with lemon, and add a table-spoonful of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and th(j yolk of an egg ; simmer gently, stirring all the time, until it thickens. Line the edge of a piedish with a good crust. Thi-ee-parts fill it with slices of spongecake, spread with apricot, strawberrj', or any other good jam. Pour the custard over them, and bake in a moderate oven. When the pudding is sufficiently cooked, lay on it the whites of two eggs, beaten to a firm froth, one of them having been slightly coloured with cochineal. Put the pudding into the oven a few minutes longer, and serve. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. G-alantine of Fowl { ee Fowl, to Bone without Opening). Galantine of Pigeons. Take a couple of pigeons, retaining the heads and feet, but cutting ofl: the ends of the toes. Wrap the heads, after cleaning them, in paper, and be careful not to break the necks. Baste the birds till the}' are of a nice uniform brown. Take some clear savoury jeUy prepared beforehand, warm it, and fill with it a bowl of suitable size. When the pigeons are nearly cold place them in the jelly, tpng their heads, liending their feet under them, and placing a sprig of mjTtle in their bills, so that they may loolc as natural as possible. The birds should be placed upside down in the jelly, which should cover their feet. When the jelly is finn say in about twenty-four houi's turn out upon a dish and serve. Galantine of Quails. Bone, flatten, fill, and truss or roll quails, or other small game, in the same way as for a galantine of fowl. Three or foirr birds will be required for a dish. If there is any difficulty about the boneing, any poulterer will do it. Bind each bird separately with tape, and tie it in a napkin. Put them into a stewpan with some good veal stock, a cow-heel, all the bones, a carrot, a large onion, stuck with one clove, a blade of mace, one tea-spoonful of salt, and one of pepper. Stew gentij- for nearly an hour. Le* GAL ( 237 ) GAM them cool in their own stock, then take them, dress them between dishes, and put a weight on the top. Keducc the stock to jelly, clarify it, cut it into dice, or rough it, and use it for garnishing the dish in which the bii'ds arc served. When they are cold, the bandage must be carefuUy removed from them. .Sufficient, three or four for a dish. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. each, but quails are seldom offered for sale. Galantine of Sucking Pig. Bone a young pig, which, for this purpose, ought not to be more than three weeks old. If tliis cannot be done at home, the butcher will do it. Lay it flat on the table, back downwards, and spread on it alternate layers of good forcemeat, truffles, pink ham, tongue, or anything which i will look and taste well when the -pig is cut into. 8eason each layer with pepper and salt, and roll i the pig tightly, binding it well with tape. It ' will be more succulent if a few slices of fat ' bacon are fastened on the outside. Wrap it in a pudding-cloth, and simmer it gently in some good veal broth, in which may be put the bones of the pig, a large carrot, a blade of mace, twelve peppercorns, and some sweet herbs. When sufficiently cooked, let it cool in its own liquor, and when taken out, press it under a weight, and let it be eaten cold. Garnish the dish with aspic jelly, made of the liquor in which it was boiled. Time, three hours to scew the pig. Probable cost, varies from 5s. to 12s. Sufficient for a dozen people, or more. Galantine of Veal. Pemove the bones from a breast of veal, and lay it flat on the table, sldn downwards. Beat it well with, a chopper, in order to make it roU more easily. Take the hard-boiled yolks of ten eggs, and pound them to a paste; mix with them one dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parslej a dessert-spoonful of sweet herbs, powdered, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and half a saitspoonfxil of pounded mace. Brush the veal over thickly with beaten egg, and spread the paste on evenly, and fjlace over it strips of veal forcemeat {see Forcemeat of Veal), the hardboiled eggs, cut into thin slices, three or four truffles, cleaned and sliced, a few mushrooms, cut into small pieces, and a pound of lean ham. Arrange these prettily on the meat, so that they will look well when the galantine is cut. Season rather highly, and roll the veal as tightly as possible, binding it with tape. Sew it in a cloth and put it into a saucepan, with some good veal stock, the bones, a carrot, a ; large onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of , sweet herbs, and a little salt and pepper. Let \ it simmer gently for six hours, and cool in the I liquid. Take it out, put it between two dishes, j and place a weight on the top, and let it remain thirty-six hours before being taken out to be cut. Before dishing, remove the tapes, and j garnish the dish with savoury jelly. Probable ; cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for a large supper dish. Galette. The galette is a favourite cake with the Parisians, and is generally eaten with sweets. It may be made rich or common, by a larger or smaller quantity of cream and butter being used in making it. Rub one pound of butter into one pound of flour, add a little salt, and make up the mixture into a paste, by adding to it the yolks of two eggs and a little cream, milk, or water. Roll out the paste to the thiclmess of an inch, and make into roimd cakes, about five inches in diameter. Let these bake in a good oven for a quarter of an horn-. When nearly done enough take them out, brush with egg, and sift a little sugar over them. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Galette, Poor Man's. Rub a quarter of a pound of dripping into one pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and make it into a paste with a little milk or water. Roll it out about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, form it into round cakes, about five inches in diameter, brush a httle water over the top, and sprinkle sugar on it. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two cakes. GallinO Rennet. A rennet may be made from the rough skin which lines the gizzards of fowls or turkeys, and the curd obtained by its means is more delicate than that made from calf's rennet. The skin should be well-washed, salted, and covered to protect it from dust, and hung in a cool place to dry. A little piece soaked in a cupful of boiling water I for eight hours produces the rennet. I Game. Under the general denomination, ? " game," are included all wild animals which I are fed for human food ; and in nothing is the I skill and knowledge of a cook so much 1 displayed as in its management. The peculiar j flavour for which it is so much prized is entirely lost if it is not kept and hung for a sufficient length of time after being killed. Without this, venison is not so good as mutton, and an ordinary chicken is more palatable than a pheasant or a partridge. Care must, however, be taken that the dish is not offensive when placed upon the table. All game is better for being young. Game should not be washed before cooked. If wiped with a dry cloth, it may be thoroughly cleansed ,and the flavour preserved. Game and Macaroni Pie. Put a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni into a saucepan of boiling stock, and let it simmer till it is tender, but unbroken. Drain, and lay it at the bottom of a deep dish, and on it place a layer of game (either partridges, pheasants, or grouse), cut into neat joints, and stewed until they are three-parts cooked. A few sHces of raw, lean ham should be put amongst the game, together with a few chopped mushrooms. Season with pepper and salt. Place a layer of macaroni on the top, grate over it a little Parmesan cheese, and put little lumps of butter here and there. Pour some good gravy, mixed with cream or new milk, over the whole; cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Before serving, add a little more boiling gravy, and milk if required. Time to bake, about one hoiu\ Sufficient, a pie made with one large or three small birds, and a quarter of a pound of macaroni, for six persons. Probable cost, imcertain. GAM ( 238 ) GAM Game, Black (a la Eoyale). Pick, draw, and singe a black cock (this must be done carefully, as the skin is easily broken). Truss it like a pheasant, lay it before a clear fire, baste it plentifully with butter, and, when sufficiently cooked, serve it on a slice of toast which, after BLACK GAME. being flavoured with lemon -juice, has been placed in the tMpping-tin under the bird for some minutes. Garnish with water-cresses and some forcemeat balls, made of game. Good gravy should be sent to table with it. This bird should not be cooked until it gives decided indications of being ready for it. Time, about thre(3-quarters of an hour to roast. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, 5s. the brace. Seldom offered for sale. Game, Crum.bs for. Take the crumbs of a stale roll, grate it very finely, put the crumbs into a stewpan, with one ounce of fresh butter. Place thom on a slow fire, and move them about with a wooden spoon till they are a bright brown. Put them on a sieve to drain, and hand them round on a separate dish. They are especially required when the game is rather high. Time, a few minutes to brown. Game Curry. Take one or more wild birds, according to the size of the dish you require. Cut them into convenient-sized joints, rather small than large, and fry these in hot butter till lightly browned. Score the joints slightly in one or two places, place a little cun-y-powder in each opening, and squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. Cover the joints with good bro- -n gravy, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Allow a table-spoonfui of ciiri-y -powder, a dessertspoonful of the pounded kernel of a cocoa-nut, a dessert-spoonful of finely-chopped acid apples, and a pint of nicely-flavoured gravy to eveiy pound of meat. Simmer a quarter of an hoiulonger. Serve with rice round the dish. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, one modcrate-.sized bird for two persons. Game, Essence of. Take the remains of cold game. Ui\-ide them into small pieces, and put tliem into a saucepan with two or three ounces of butter, four shallots, finely ?minced, a sprig of thyme and basU, three cloves, and six peppercorns. Fry gently until they are brightly browned, then add a pint of stock, and boil on a gentle fire for twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve, and put aside for use. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold game, fid. Two table-spoonfuls of the essence will flavour half a pint of gravy. Game, Forcemeat for. Take a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and a quarter of a pound of calf's liver. Cut into convenient- sized pieces, and fry them until half cooked, then chop them small, put them into a mortar, and pound them thoroughly with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a pinch of powdered mace. When well pounded, add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and if these are not sufficient to bind all together, add a little cream. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Game, Hashed. Take the remains of any cold game. It will be all the better for being under-dressed. Cut it into convenientsized joints, and cover them, to keep them from getting dry and dusty. Put the trimmings into a saucepan, -\vith a breakfast-cupful of stock, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a dozen peppercorns, and an onion stuck with two cloves ; thicken with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a littl& butter, add a salt-spoonful of salt, and simmer gently by the side of the fire tiU the sauce coats the spoon. Strain the mixture, add a glass of port wine, put in the pieces of game, and let it simmer for ten minutes longer. It must not boil. Put the game on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with toasted bread. Care should be taken to remove the soft part inside moor game, if it is very high, or it will make the hash bitter. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold game and wine. Sufficient, one pound of meat for two persons. Game, Hashed (Venison). Cut the remains of A-enison into convenient-sized pieces, about half an inch in thickness. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and mix with it, very smoothly, two ounces of fine flour. Let it remain on the fire till slightly browned, then add a breakfast-cupful of good stock, a teaspoonful of essence of ancho -v', a tea-spoonful of muskroom ketchup, and eight or ten oysters, with their liquor, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and foui- table-spoonfuls of mUk. Let it simmer till the sauce coats the spoon. Add a glass of port wine and the slices of venison. Let the sauce simmer again till the venison is thoroughly heated; but the sauce must not boil, or the meat will be tough. Serve on a hot dish, with some toasted sippets. Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the Avine and cold meat. Sufficient, two pounds of meat and this quantity of sauce for four or five persons. Game in Aspic Jelly. Make as much aspic jelly as will fill your mould. Put a little at the bottom, let it stiffen, then arrange in it the remains of cold game, cut into neat pieces, and alternately with them slices of pink ham, pieces of hard-boiled eggs, or anything that will add to the appearance. Do not crowd the meat, but leave room for the jeUy to go GAM ( 239 ) GAM between the pieces. Fill up the mould with jelly, and set in a cool place. Before serving, dip the mould for a second or two in boiling water, to make it turn out more easily. Time, twelve hours to set the jelly. Suitable for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Game Panada (Invalid Cookery). Boil some game, such as a yoimg pheasant or a young partridge, until it is three-parts cooked. Take off the skin, pick the liesh from the bones, and poimd it in a mortar with a little of the liquid in which it was boiled, the crumb of a French roll, and a little salt, grated nutmeg, and rasped lemon-rind. When beaten to a paste, put it into a saucepan, with a little more of the liquid, and let it simmer for ten minutes. It should be as thick as good melted butter. Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the game. Sufficient, a few spoonfuls may be given to an iavalid. Game Patties. Make a nicely-flavoured mince of the remains of game. Moisten with a little gravy. Make some small round patties of good light crust, or pufl: paste, brush them over with beaten egg, and bake them till lightly browned. Warm the mince in a saucepan, put a little in the centre of each patty, and serve them hot, piled on a napkin. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, Id. each, exclusive of the game. Sufficient, allow one for each person. Gam.e, Perigord. Pie. This somewhat celebrated pie, composed of partridges and truffles, derives its name from Perigord, a place where truffles are ver\' abundant. To make it, tirst liue the crust of a raised pie with fat bacon ; spread on it a forcemeat made by mincing and pounding liver and seasoning in the followingproportions : Half a pound of liver (the partridge's liver and a little calf's liver may be used) , half a pound of fat bacon, half a povmd of lean ham, two shallots, four ounces of seasoning spices, one or two truffles, and a little jjepper and salt. StufE the partridges with this forcemeat and some truffles; place them in the crust, back downwai'ds. Fill up the vacant places with forcemeat and bacon, put a slice of bacon on the top, cover with pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. Vhen the pie is baked neai-ly enough, fiU it up with some gravy, made by stewing the trimmings and a little_ isinglass. Time, four hours to bake. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Game Pie, English. The great point to bo attended to in this dish is to use venison that has been well kept. The best end of the neck is what should be taken. Trim and rub it with mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. Boil ; down the trimmings of venison and the inferior ; joints of a hare to make gravy. Take the back and thighs of the hare, and after boneing them, till with forcemeat, using shallot and the raw liver of the hare minced up in the forcemeat. Line a dish with short crust, put in the venison and hare, filling up every space with forcemeat. Add a little of the gravy, put on the cover, ornament the top, and bake in a hot oven. When venison is not liked, substitute the prime joints of another h ire. Time, about two hom-s and a half to bake. ? Game Pie for Christmas. This pie IS smtable where game is abundant and expense no object. Make a thick stiff crust, for dii-ections for which, see Raised Pie. It may either be baked in a mould, or formed into shape with the hands. The latter operation is not easy for those unaccustomed to it. Line the bottom with slices of fat bacon ; spread over that a layer of forcemeat, made by scalding the livers of the birds, and pounding them with then- weight in fat bacon and lean ham, a few truffles, some bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, savom-y herbs, parsley, and rasped lemon-rind. Then put in some of the joints of the birds the breasts should be larded and strew over all some finely-chopped mushrooms. Repeat imtil the pie is full. Season rather lightly, and keep putting little liunps of butter in amongst the other ingredients. Lay some slices of bacon on the top, put on the Ud, ornament with pastry leaves and other devices, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. I If the pie is to be served hot, pour some strong i gravy over it as soon as it is baked ; if cold, '? take away the bacon from the top, and put some roughed aspic jelly over it before sending it to ' table. This pie may be made of pheasants, j partridges, woodcocks, snipe, grouse, &c. Time ! to bake, three or four hours for a large pie. Probable cost, &c., uncertain, according to the { size and contents. Game Pie (Hunting). Make a stiff short crust for raised pie {see Raised Pie) ; bake ' in a modeiate oven. Cut into neat anct rather : small joints, one turkey, two pheasants, two ' partridges, two woodcocks, half a small hare, one grouse, one snipe, and one large ox-tongue. Stow them gently till tender, season rather highly, put them into the crust, pour over them a little of the gravy in which they were , stewed, and strew on the top some finely! chopped stewed mushrooms. Put on the lid, and warm the pie in a moderate o ?cn when wanted. Time, three or four hours to prepare. Game, Pies of. Very good pies may be made of game, either cut into joints or, if the birds are small, put in whole. The seasoning should be rather high, and it is usual to put a beef-steak at the bottom of the dish. Game pies are often too mucli cooked, and thus the flavour is spoilt. A little good melted butter, mixed with claret, and a soxpron of lemon- juice may be poured over the game when it is to be eaten hot. Stewed macaroni is sometimes substituted for the beef-steak in game pies. Time, cost, &c., according to the size. Game, Pur e of. Take the remains of cold game ; pick off all the meat, and put the skin, gristle, and bones intoa saucepan, with a bunch of thj-me, a stick of celerj-, a breakfastcupful of stock, and a lump of butter rolled in flour. Simmer gently until reduced one-half. Remove the scum as it rises. Put the meat into a moi-tar with a lump of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of gravy. Pound it to a smooth paste, and rub it through a coarse GAM (240) GAM sieve. Mix it with the gicavy and a little cream, stir it over the fire till hot, and serve with croquettes of potatoes round the dish. Time, about one hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold game. Sufficient, puree made with one pound of game, for three persons. Game, Quenelles of. Take the remains of cold game, remove the skin and gristle, and pound the meat in a mortar, with one dessertspoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, the quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, half a pound of bread-crumbs, soaked in milk, and drained, three table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped mushrooms, a piece of butter, and the yolk of an egg, to every pound of meat. When well pounded, make up into small thick sausages, dredge them with flour, and dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Fry them in hot butter or lard till lightly browned, drain on a httle blottingpaper, and serve piled high on a napkin. Garnish with parsley, and send brown sauce to table with them. Time, ten minutes to fry. Sufficient, one pound of meat, &c., for three persons. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold game. Game, Salmi of. A salmi differs from a hash in this, that it is made of game which has been only partially dressed, whilst a hash consists of game which has been properly cooked and become cold. Carve the meat into neat joints, rejecting the skin and gristle. Put a quarter of a poiuid of raw, lean ham, finely minced, into a saucepan, with a little butter, a sprig of parsley, two or three shallots, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a blade of mace, and a little salt and cayenne. Let these ingredients stew gently for a few minutes, then mix in smoothly a table-spoonful of flour, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom powder. Let it brown, and add a breakfastcupful of good stock, and a glass of claret. Let the mixture boil. Put in the bones and trimmings, and simmer over a moderate fire for an hour or more. A small carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a bay-leaf may be simmered with the rest. Skim carefully, strain, and when ready to serve, put the joints in with the gravy, and heat all slowly, but it must not boil. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. A salmi should be highlyseasoned. Probable cost, exclusive of the game and wine, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Game, Sauce for. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, with two minced shallots, and six ounces of the shin of beef, cut into small pieces. Fry until lightly and equally browned, and to secure this, tirrn frequently. Pour on gradually one pint of boiling water, add a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley, two bay-leaves, and a little salt and pepper. Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little water, add a little bi'owning, if necessary, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Strain, clear well from fat, and boil up again, adding one glass of claret and a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup. Pour a little of the gravy round the birds, and send the rest to table in a tm'een. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a brace of small birds. Game, Sauce for (another way). By substituting the remains of a roasted partridge for the beef in the last recipe, a very superior sauce may be made. Where game is to be had in plenty this may be a convenience. The flavour will be more completely dra vn out if the flesh is picked from the bones and pounded before being stewed. Time, one hour and a haU to stew. Sufficient for a brace of small birds. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the meat and wine. Game, Sauce for (another way). Take_ one table-spoonfid of lemon-juice, the thin rind of a lemon, and the rind of a Seville orange, I being careful to cut away the white part. Put these into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of Espagnole or good brown sauce. Let them simmer gently ; then strain and add a teacupful of claret and a pinch of salt. Season rather highly with pepper and cayenne. Time, a quarter of an hour, the brown gravy being already made. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint of gravy. Game, Sauce, Piquante, for. Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and mix it smoothly with a table-spoonful of salad-oil, stir in with it a little salt and pepper, a mustardspoonful of made mustard, a dessert- spoonful of walnut ketchup and three dessert- spoonfuls of vinegar. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two small birds. Gam.e Sausages. Take the remains of game, cut off the meat, remove carefully the skin and sinew, mince the flesh and pound it in a mortar, with six ounces of lean ham, and six I ounces of butter to every poxmd of meat. ' Season rather highly with salt, pepjjer, and ' powdered mace. Put the mixture into skins I and fry in hot butter or lard for three-quarters I of an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound, exclusive of the cold game. Sufficient, one i pound for two or thi-ee persons. I Game Soup. This soup may be made of 1 the remains of cold birds which are not required, ! though, of course, if uncooked, the soup will be I better. Pick off all the white meat you can ! get from the bones, and pound it in a mortar. j Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, [ with five or six txirnips, a slice of lean ham, a ; little pepper and salt, two or three onions, and i three pints of white stock or water. Simmer gently, and when the tm-nips are tender, take I them out, mix them with the pounded meat, j and press them through a tamis. Keep adding ; a little of the broth, so as to press as much I through as possible. Retm-n the broth to the I saucepan, and let it get quite hot. A few I minutes before serving draw it from the fire, ! let it cool a little, and mix with it the welli beaten yolks of two eggs, and a cupful of I cream. It must not boil after the eggs are I added. Time, one hour and a half to stew the bones and trimmings. Sufficient for five perI sons. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold ! game, Is. for this qtiantity. GAM (241 ) GAR Game Stock. The remains of cold roast game, and the bones and trimmings, should be stewed down, and will make good stock. Put some lean ham at the bottom of the stew, and on this lay the game. Just cover it with stock or water, and boil it quickly down to a glaze. Add more liquid, allowiag a pint of water to every pound of trimmiugs. Flavour with carrots, turnips, onions, &c., remove the scum as it rises, and stew gently for three or four hours. Strain it off for use. Game, To Devil. In order to devil game properly, the flesh should be rather deeply scored, and covered with a powder made of equal parts of salt, cayenne, and curry powder, with the addition, if liked, of mushroom or truffle powder, and mixed mustard. Broil over a hot clear fire, until brightly browned and hot, but not burnt. Devilled game is oftener than not eaten dry, as a relish with wiae. When sauce is wanted, it may be made by putting a breakfast-cupful of thick brown gravy into a saucepan, with a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a shallot finely minced, a spoonful of ketchup, the jvdce and finely-grated riad of a lemon, a tea- spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a tea-sjDOonful of bruised capers. Simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve in a tureen. The devilled game will be all the better if the meat has been under-dressed. Moor game is particularly suited to this mode of cookery. Time, a few minutes to bioil the bones. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the game. Allow one or two bones for each person. Game, To Devil (another way). Take ?qual parts of salt, cayenne pepper, and curry powder, with double the quantity of powdered mushrooms or truffles. Split open a brace of woodcocks, rather nnder-roasted, cut them into small pieces, score these pieces, and rub the jjowder well into them. Crush the trail and brains, and mix them with a hard-boiled egg, the rind of half a lemon, finely-grated, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, a glass of sherry, and the juice of haK a Seville orange. ISIrs. these ingredients smoothly together, and put them with the game into a silver stew-dish, over a lamp. Simmer gently, stirring frequently, till the game has absorbed most of the liquid, then thi-ow in a spoonful of salad-oil, stir it round quickly, and serve instantly. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the game and wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Game, To Keep from Tainting. While it is very desirable that game should be hung a proper length of time, to render the flesh tender and iu proper condition, it is most undesirable that it should be served at table ra a state offensive to sight and smell. Choose birds which are not much mangled by shot. Hang them, if possible, in a cool place, where there is a current of air blowing right through. Be careful to preserve them from flies ; black pepper will do this. Examine them every day, and if there is danger that they will not keep, draw, pick, and crop them, place them on a dish, cover them with muslin, and sprinkle a little pounded charcoal under and over them. If they appear already spoilt, they may often be made fit for eating by washing in vinegar and water, or by washing and thoroughly rubbing them with salt, and putting them for ten minutes in boiling water. Take them out, hang them in a cool place, and powder them lightly over with charcoal. If game is tainted, wash it before roasting, but if not, it should not be touched with water. Game is as often spoilt by being frozen as by being too fresh. In frosty weather it should be brought into the warm kitchen three or f oiur hours before it is cooked. Charcoal may be made by putting a piece of wood in the fire, and letting it remain until it is burnt through, and quite black. Game, to Remove Taint from. Wash the game first in chloride of soda, and afterwards in fresh water, and diy it thoroughly in a cloth before cooking ; or put some fresh powdered charcoal, tied in muslin, inside the crop. Take the charcoal out, and throw it away, before sending the bird to table. Garbure. This is a dish used in the north of Em-ope something between a soup, a stew, and a bake. It may be composed of almost an}i;hing, but neither meat, vegetables, nor In-own or rye bread, must be absent. Beat three pounds of lean beef, cut them into small pieces, and put them in a stewpan with a knuckle of ham or veal, two large onions stuck with six cloves, a bunch of parsley, and five or six sliced carrots. Pour over these a pint of water, and simmer gently until the juice of the beef is drawn out, then add two quarts of water or stock, and simmer over a moderate fire for two hours. Put two young cabbages into another saucepan, place a layer of bacon under and over them, and add half a pint of stock ; cover closely, and stew gently until the cabbages are sufficiently cooked. Toast a large slice of rj-e or brown bread ; place the cabbages on tjiis, with the meat above them, and a string of fried sausages all roxmd. The liquid in which the meat was stewed may be served as soup. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Gardener's Omelet. Beat half a dozen eggs, season them with pepper and salt, and mix in some finely-minced vegetables either salad, green peas, French beans, powdered herbs, or whatever the season affords. Green peas and French beans must be cooked before" they are mixed with the eggs. Make the omelet in the usual way. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the vegetables. Sufficient for four- persons. Garfish. These fish are not much liked on account of their strong oily taste. The oil, however, lies in the skin, and if it be taken quite oft", the flesh is not to be despised. The garfish may be either boiled, broiled, baked, or stewed, or cooked as follows*. Take off the skin, cut the fish into pieces about one inch and a half long, and put them into a marinade made of vinegar, oil, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, and two or threo cloves. Let them lie an hour or two, then put them into a jar, cover them closely, add a little gravy, if necessary, and put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water. GAR ( 242 ) GAR Let it boil until the fish is sufficiently cooked. Serve with anchovy or parsley sauce. Any of the recipes for eels may be used for garfish. Time, about half an houi-. The cost is uncertain, for the garfish is seldom oftered for sale. Sufficient, one ordinary fish for two persons. Garlic. Garlic requires to be used most judiciously, or it will spoil whatever is cooked with it. If used carefully, however, it will impart a most delicious fiavour to salads and sauces ; but it is so strong that, for many dishes, all that is necessary is to rub the dish which is to be sent to table sharply round with a slice of it ; or, better still, to rub it on a crust of bread, and put the bread into the soup. Sec, for a few minutes. A very general prejudice exists against garlic, probably on account of its being used in the same way as an onion. If it is desii-ed to diminish the streng-th of the flavour, this may be done by boiling the garlic in two or three waters. Garlic and Eggs {see Eggs and Garlic). Garlic Gravy. Cut a pound of lean beef into slices, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of rasped ham, a scraped carrot, and one clove of garlic. Brown the meat slightly on both sides, then pour over it I one pint of stock or water, a bundle of savoury herbs, another clove, and a lemon shced right through. Simmer gently for an horn-, thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a small quantity of water, and strain through a coarse sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a little grated nutmeg. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for one pint of gra\y. Garlic, Mild Ragout of . Take off the skin from some cloves of garlic, and put them into fast-boiling water. In five minutes drain the water from them, and put in fresh. Boil another five minutes, and repeat the previous performance imtil the vegetable is tender. A pinch of salt may be added to the water when the garlic is nearly done enough. Mix it with the gravy which is to be sent to table with roast mutton. If it is not wished to decrease the strength of the flavour quite so much, change the water less frequently. Time, about half an hour. Sufficient, half a pint of garlic with half a pint of gravy. Garlic Paste. Slice four or six cloves of garlic, and pound them in a mortar, moistening them occasionally with olive-oil until they form a smooth mass. Put the mixture into jars, cover with clarified butter, and keep in a cool place. This composition, conunonly called agoli, is used for flavoui-ing dishes with garlic. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. Sufficient, a little taken on the point of a knife will flavour a pint of gravy. Garlic Pickle. Di de one pound of cloves of garlic, take off the skin, and lay them in a dish. Strew salt plentifully over them, and let them stand for two or three days. Wipe them, and lay them in the sun to dry. Put one quart of vinegar into a preserving-pan, with a tea-spoonful of salt, one ounce of whole pepper, and one ounce of bruised mustard-seed. BoU quickly, remove the scum, and throw in the garlic for three minutes only. Pour into an earthen jar, and, when cold, tie a bladder or four or five folds of paper tightly over the pickle. The "vinegar must cover the garlic, and as it becomes absorbed, a little more may be added. Garlic Sauce. Blanch two cloves of garhc in boiluig water twice. Dry them, and pound them in a mortar with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a small egg. When qmte smooth, press the mixture through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of good melted butter. Add the juice of a lemon. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. There will be sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of sauce. Probable cost, od. Garlic Vinegar. Take three ounces of the cloves of garlic, remove the skin and bruise them slightly in a mortar. Put them into an earthen jar, with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen cloves, and half an ounce of whole ginger. Pour over them a quart of the best vinegar, cover closely, and in ten days or a fortnight strain off for use. Two or three drops will prove a valuable addition to sauces and salads. The flavour may be increased or diminished by lea 'ing the garlic a longer or shorter time in the vinegar, or by altering the proportion of garhc. Before straining off for use taste two or three drops, and see if the flavour is such as will be liked. Garnish. In dishing meat for the table, garnishing forms a most important part, as it is highly desti-able that the eye should be satisfied as well as the palate, and the most delicious dish may not be enjoyed if ita appearance be against it. Vegetables and sauces form the principal garnish for meat dishes. It is evident, however, that in garnishing very much must depend on the good taste of the cook, and the material at her command. A general idea only of various garnishes can be given here, and their adaptation must bo left to the taste of those employing them. Garnish (a la Financiere) Take thi-ce cockscombs, three large mushrooms, three truffles, G;AR ( 243 ) GAR three chicken quenelles, three artichoke hottoms, and three scoUops of sweetbreads. Prepare these (see recipe for each), let them boil for five minutes in some good brown sauce, season rather highly, and add a glass of light wine. "When this garnish is used, it gives its name to a dish. It is, however, expensive and elaborate, and unsuited to ordinary domestic cookery. Sufficient for a small dish. Garnish, Asparagus for. Chop the green part of asparagus into pieces the size of a pea. Boil them until nearly tender, di'ain and shake them over the fire for ten minutes, \dth. a little butter, pepper, and salt. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. pur hundred heads. Sufficient, fifty heads to garnish a small dish. Garnish, Beetroot for. Wash a beetroot thoroughly. Put it into boiling water, and let it keep boihng until a fork can be put into it with ease. Take it out, drain it, and, when it is wanted, peel it and cut it into thin slices, which may be shaped with an ordinary pastrycutter. Time, two hours to boil. Une root will garnish a large dish. Probable cost, Id. Garnish, Celery Sauce for. Wash two heads of celery, scald and drain, and cut them into pieces two inches long. Put a slice of bacon at 'Jie bottom of the stewpan, and lay on it the celery, one onion, one blade of mace, one bay -leaf , a little salt and pepper, and as much stock as will just cover it. Let it simmer tiU tender. This may be used as garnish for boiled fowls, &c. Time, half an hour to simmer the celery. Sufficient, two heads and a half pint of sauce for one large fowl. Probable cost, 2d. per head. Garnish, Cockscombs for. Put the combs into a saucepan with I'lenty of cold water. Place them on the tu-e and stir constantly until the skin begins to rise. Take them off .immediately, remove the skin, and throw the combs into salt and water. Change the water two or three times, and let them remain until quite white. Dry, and boil them in some good stock, flavom-ed with lemon- juice. Time, eight houi'S to prepare. Garnish, Cucumber. Peel the cucumber and slice it ; keep scooping out the seeds as it is cut down. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a little salt and pepper, and a lump of sugar. Let the ingredients stew slowly until sufficiently cooked, then strain off the butter, pour over them a little good white sauce, and serve with steak, cutlets, &c. Time to stew, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient, one moderate-sized cucumber, with haK a pint of sauce, for two pounds of cutlets. Garnish, Cucumber, for Salmon Pickle two or three pounds of salmon, or mure, if required. Season rather highly. Drain off the liquor, place the salmon on a dish, and cover it completely with two or three layers of thin slices of fresh cucumber, from which the rind has been taken. Time, twenty minutes to slice the cucumber. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient, one good-sized cucumber for three pounds of salmon. Garnish for Poidtry, Game, &c. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, and, when it is hot, fry in it equal quantities of lean ham and kidney, either mutton or veal, cutting the meat into thin slices of equal size! Jlince a little parslej-, strew it over these slices, add pepper and salt, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. When lightly browned on both sides, poui- the meat and the gravy round the poultry, &c., which it is intended to garnish. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, mutton kidneys, 2d. each. Sufficient, four kidneys for one lai-ge fowl. Garnish, Fowls' Livers. Blanch the liver of the fowl, and partly boil it. Cut the bitter part away, and mince it very finely. Make half a pint of good melted butter. Let it boil, then put with it the minced liver, a tea-spoonful of chojjped lemon-rind, and the I juice of the lemon. Where poultry is plentiful, and expense no object, three or four livers may be stewed in the savoury stock, strained, and placed whole, or in halves, round the dish. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the liver. Sufficient, half a pint for one good-sized fowl. I Garnish, Fried Bread for. Cut the I crumb of a stale loaf into slices, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Stamp them out into pretty shapes with an ordinary pastry cutter, j and *fr}- them in hot butter, or lard, until lightly browned on both sides. Drain them from the fat, and put them round the dish they are intended to garnish. If they wiU not keep in their places, brush the under side with white of egg, mixed with a little flour. Time, two or three minutes to frj-. Garnish, Green Peas for. Boil some young green peas until tender. Drain them until quite dry, then put them into a saucepan with a small limip of butter, a table-spoonful of white sauce, a little salt and pepper, and a saltspoonful of moist sugar. Shake them over the fire for a few minutes, and pile them in the middle of a dish of cutlets. Time, fifteen minutes to boil the peas, five or ten minutes to shake them over the fire. Probable cost, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Garnish, Mushrooms for. Cut away the gritty end of the stalk, and pare the mushrooms. Throw them as they are done into a basin of cold water ; wash them well, lift them out of the water with both hands, so as to leave the sediment at the bottom, and put them in a saucepan, with the juice of a large lemon, two table-spoonfuls of water, two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a little pepper. Shake the saucepan constantly, and let them boil fcr ten minutes. They may be put into a jar, and closely covered, and will keep for some time. Probable cost. Is. per pint. Garnish, Parsley Fried for. Parsley may be best fried in the small wii-e baskets which are sold for the purpose. Wash, and diy it thoroHijhlij. Put some lard, diipping, or butter into the frying-pan, and when it is just about to boil, hold the basket in it for forty seconds, then take the parsley out, and dry it before the fire. If a wire basket is not at hand, put the GAU (244) GAT parsley into the fat, and as soon as it is crisp take it up with an egg-slice, and dry it hefore the fire. Fried and crisped parsley {see Crisped Parsley) are the most usual, and the cheapest of garnishings, but they require care in preparation. Crisped parsley is easier to prepare than fried parsley. Probable cost, Id. per bunch. Garnish, Potatoes Fried, for. Choose large potatoes. Peol them, and cut them into slices, about the eighth of an inch in thickness. Wash, and dry them in a cloth. Heat some dripping or fat over a brisk fire. As soon as it boils and is stiU, put in the potatoes, and move them about, to insure their being evenly cooked. When lightly browned and crisp, drain them from the fat, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve. Time, five minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. AUow half a pound for each person. Garnish, Potatoes Pried for (another way). Boil as many potatoes as are required. When nearly cooked, take them out, and put them into a stewpan with some hot fat. Shake the pan, to prevent them burning, and when they are lightly browned and crisp, drain, and serve as hot as possible. It is an improvement to flour, dip them in beaten egg, and roll in bread - crumbs before frying. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient, two potatoes for each person. Garnish, Potatoes Fried for (another way). Mash some potatoes with a httle butter and milk. Shape them into balls, and proceed as in the last recipe. Time, ten minutes. Proable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient, half a pound for each person. Garnish, Piiree of Green Peas for. Boil some young green peas, in the usual way, until tender. Pound them in a mortar, press them through a sieve, and put the pulp into a saucepan with a small lump of butter, a little salt and pepper, a lump of sugar, and a table-spoonful of good stock. Stir over the fire until the puree is quite hot, and serve, piled high on a dish, \vdth the cutlets, &c., round it. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. per peck. Sufiicient, one peck for six or seven persons. Garnish, Tomatoes for. Remove the ?stalks of the tomatoes. Put them into a saucepan, sufiiciently large for all to be in it without resting one upon another. Cover them with good gravy, and stew gently until tender, tui-ning them carefully once or twice, to insure their being equally cooked. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, season rather highly with cayenne, and salt, and serve with cutlets, roast meat, &c. Time, haK an hour to boil the tomatoes. Sufiicient, a basket for a hot joint. Probable cost, 9d. or Is. Garnish, Truffles for. Wash the trufiles by bnishing them in several waters until they are quite free from sand. Put them into some good stock, and let them boil gently for fifteen minutes. They shoiild cool in the liquid. Slice for use. Garniture (en Ragodt). Blanch three lambs' sweetbreads in boiling water ; soak and simmer them gently, with the livers, in as much good brown gravy as will cover them. When they have been on the fire about twenty minutes, take them up, cut them into small pieces, and return them to the saucepan with some button-mushrooms, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Simmer until quite tender. Thicken, with fiour and butter. A few minutes before serving, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and mix with the ragout, very gradually, the yolks of two eggs and a cupful of cream. The ragout must not boil after the eggs are added. Put finely-flavoured forcemeat balls round the dish, and, if they are liked, peas. Asparagus points or French beans may be sent to table in the same dish. Time, forty minutes altogether. Allow three sweetbreads, &c., for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 3s. each. Gateau. A gateau is a French country cake for highdays and holidays, made of dough, with which has been mixed currants, butter, and eggs. It is baked in the shape of a long loaf, and is served cut in slices, which are spread with butter, and eaten at the end of a meal. It may, of course, be made either plain or rich. For an ordinary gateau the rule is, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, five eggs, and a little yeast, to every poimd of flour ; no sugar. Milk is sometimes used instead of water, but this makes the cake drier. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Gateau (a la Dauphine). Thoroughly beat the yolks of ten eggs ; mix with them half a pound of pounded sugar, a table-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, two table-spoonfuls of lose-water, and a quarter of a pound of the best flour. Beat the whites to a solid froth, and stir them in with the rest. Put the mixture into a well-oiled tin, and bake in a good oven for about forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufiicient for a moderate-sized gateau. Gateau de Chocolat. Make a gateau, as in the last recipe {sec Gateau a la Dauphine). When it is sufiiciently baked, turn it out of the tin, and let it cool. Put half a pound of sugar into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of water. Dip the finger and thumb into cold water, and keep taking a little of the boiling sugar between them. When it looks hke strong glue it should be taken from the fire, allowed to stand eight or ten minutes, and then be mixed with three ounces of chocolate, dissolved in a little water. Work all well together, and while the mixture is still hot, glaze the gateau with it, and ornament with spun sugar. Time, forty minutes to bake the cake. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized gateau. Gateau de Compiegne. Gateau de Compiegne is made by mixing a little brioche paste (see Brioche Paste) with currants and raisins. Gateau d'Epiee. Gateau d'Epice is the name for French gingerbread flavoured with vanilla. Poimd a quarter of a pod of vanilla with a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Stir it into half a pound of treacle, and put it into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of ground ginger, an ounce of candied GAT (245) GAT lomon, orange, and citron together, cut into thin slices, and a pinch of salt. Let these simmer gently for five or six minutes, stirring all the time, then pour the mixture into a bowl, and, when cool, add as much finely- sifted flour as will make it into a solid batter. Bake in a slow oven on buttered tins, in small rounds, placed at a little distance from each other. Tune to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Gateau de Nanterre. Gateau de Nanterre is nearly the same thing as Gateau de Compiegne. The only difl'erencc is that the former are sweetened, and made with cui'rants ; the latter are not sweetened, and both currants and raisins are used in their preparation. Gateau de Plomb. Take two pounds of flour, and rub into it one pound and a half of butter. Make it into a paste with three eggs, and a quart of cream, or new milk, adding a salt-spoonful of salt, and a table-spoonful of sugar. AVork the paste for a minute between the hands, and leave it for an hour. Make it into a roll about two and a half inches in thickness, score it with a knife, and tie it in three or four strips of buttered paper, to prevent its getting out of form. Bake the roll in a hot oven, and when it is done enough, put it between two dishes, with a weight upon the top, and let it remain until it is cold. If preferred, the paste may be made into small cakes, instead of a large roll. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. for this quantity, if made with milk. Sufficient for two long roils. Gateau de Porames. Take half a pound of loaf sugar, put it into a saucepan with half a pint of water, and let it boil to a thick sjTup. Put with it one pound of nicelyfla-\-oured apples, weighed after they are pared and cored, and the thinly-sliced rind and juice of a small lemon. Stir the contents of the saucepan constantly, and boil until they are stiff. A tea-spoonful of isinglass may be added, if liked. Press the gateau into a damp mould, and when it is stiff, turn it out, and serve with custard round it. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for a small mould. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the custard. Gateau de Riz (French Eice Pudding). Put four ounces of rice into a saucepan, with a quart of new milk, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and the rind of half a lemon. Simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. Let it cool, then mix with it the well-beaten yolks of six large eggs. Pour a little clarified butter into a copper cake-mould, and turn it round on an incline until the butter has coated everj' part of it and is firm. Sprinkle some finely-grated bread-crumbs in the mould, and shake it well, so that they maj' cover the surface evenlj'. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and mix them with the rice, then put it very gently into the mould, so as not to displace the crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. The pudding should turn out firm and bro'wn, looking hke a cake. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for a good-sized mould. Gateau de Semoule (French Semolina Pudding). Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, with the thin rind of a lemon, and let it stand by the side of the fire until the flavour is thoroughly extracted ; then take out the rind, and let the milk boil. Throw in five ounces of semohna, a lump of butter the size of a large egg, a tiny pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring all the time, and add gradually the yolks of six eggs well beaten. Prepare a mould as for Gateau de Riz. Just before putting the semolina into the mould, add the whites of four eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Bake in a moderate oven. Both this gateau and the Gateau de Eiz may be agreeably varied by flavouring the niUk with vanilla, cocoa-nut, or almonds, instead of lemon. Time to bake, one hour and a haK. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a good-sized mould. Gate au, Napolitaine . Cut a large round spongecake into shces nearly an inch thick. Spread a little good jam on each shce, and replace it in its original position, allowing it to soak in a little noyeau or maraschino before another slice is placed upon it. The topmost piece of cake should have jam on the under side. Sweeten a breakfast-cupful of thick cream, and flavour it according to taste. Pour this round the cake, which should be ornamented with sugar-icing, coloured with cochineal. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the noyeau or maraschino, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Gateau of Hare. Take the remains of cold hare. Scrape all the meat from the skin and sinews, and pound it in a mortar, with the liver of the hare, a piece of calf's Uver (previously boiled), a slice of lean ham, and a small piece of buttex. When well pounded, mix with it half its bulk in crumb of bread, which has been soaked in a little cold stock or hare soup, and a table-spoonful of brandy. Add wellbeaten eggs till the mixture is of the consistence of a firm batter, pour it into a weU-buttered mould, place two or three slices of fat bacon on the top, tie the whole in a floured cloth, and boil gently for an hour or more, being careful that the water is not sufficiently high in the saucepan to enter the mould. Turn out the gateau, and poiu- a sauce round it made of good hare stock, highly-seasoned and flavom-ed with port wine and red currant jelly. The gateau may be baked if preferred. Probable cost, &c., according to the size. Gateau of Mixed Fruits. Put one pound of codlings, pared and cored, into a saucepan, vnth a little water to prevent biu-ning. Boil until the apples are reduced to pulp, then add their weight in sugar, and boU half an hornlonger. Pour in haK a pint of red currant juice, and half a pint of raspberry, or any other fruit juice that may be Hked and at hand. A little isinglass or gelatine may be added, to assist in sti&ening. Pour the gateau into a damped mould, and serve in a glass dish with custard. Time, nearly one hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a jiint mould. Gateau of Mixed Fruits (another way). Take a cupful of two or thi-ee different kinds of unsweetened fruit iuice. Put them into a saue? GAU (246) GEN pan with a pound of sugar to every pint and a half of juice, a iittle apple jelly, the juice of a lemon, and a quarter of a pound of ground rice. Place the pan on the fire, and stir constantly until the mixture thickens ; then pour it into an oiled mould, and, when it is cold, turn it out on a glass dish, and serve with a little cream or custard. If the fruit juice is already sweetened, less sugar will, of course, he required. Time, half an hour. Prohahle cost. Is. 4d. per quart. Sufficient for a good-sized mould. Gauffres (an easy way to make). Clarify a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and mix it with a pound of sifted loaf sugar, one pound of best flour, eight eggs well beaten, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, a tiny pinch of .salt, a stick of pounded vaniUa, and one or two grates of nutmeg. Drop the mixture on weUbuttered baking-tins, in rounds the size of the top of a wine-glass, and, as soon as they are baked, curl them round a reed. Let them dry in a cool oven or before the tire, and shake a iittle sifted sugar over them before serving. A iittle good jam may be spread lightly on them, or they may be fiUed with whipped cream. Time, a few minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 4d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient, a few may be put round a mould of jeUy or blancmange. Gauffres, riemish. Beat the yolks of six eggs with one pound of line flour, mix thoroughly, and add lather more than a pint of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter, a small pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of yeast. Mix with a wooden spoon imtil the flour is quite smooth, and leave it three-quarters of an hour to rise ; then add a glass of brandy, and the white of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Heat the gauffre-irons over or in a clear slow fire. When sufficiently hot, rub the inside with a little clarified butter or fresh lard, and fill one side of the ii-ons with a little of the batter. Bake a few minutes, and when the gaulfre is brightly browned on one side, turn the irons over to brown it on the other. The irons may j be ojiened a little, to see if it is done. Turn the gauifre out, rub the inside of the iron with ! a little more butter, and repeat this with each ; gauifre. Set the gauifres in a cool oven or 1 before the fire. Serve quite hot, and dust a little sugar over before serving. If any are left, they may be warmed again before the fire I or in the oven. Before attempting to make I gauffres it is well to see them made. Probable cost, Is. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient, a dozen or eighteen for a dish. Gauffres, Flemish, (another way). Dissolve one oimce of yeast in half a pint of new milk ; mix twelve ounces of flour with the milk, and make it into a soft dough, which put to rise near the fire. Melt six ounces of butter ; add to it half an ounce of powdered sugar, the rind of two oranges rubbed off on some more sugar, which should also be poimded, two well-beaten eggs, and a little salt. When the sponge has risen to double its original quantity, mix the above ingredients well with it, adding half a pint of whipped cream, the yolks of four eggs, and the whites whisked to a firm froth. Mix the whites lightly with the batter, and cover again to rise. When ready, smear the gauifre-irons with clarified butter, fill with a spoon, and bake a bright yellow colour. Turn the gaulfre-irons that the batter may run into the other side, and set them over a charcoal tire. Let them be removed from the irons when done, trimmed, and then set in the oven or before a tire. Shake lemon, orange, or vanilla sugar over, and serve on a napkin. Ureat care must he taken to prevent the gauifres from getting too brown. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. for this quantity. Gelatine Jelly. Where economy is a consideration, as it is in the majority of homes, pretty and palatable dishes may be made from gelatine. The objection to the use of this article is that it often imparts a gluey taste to the jelly, the only remedy for which is that care should be taken to obtain as good a quality of gelatine as possible, and not to use a larger quantity than is necessary for the timmess of the dish. Soak the gelatine in water until it swells ; this will be in about an hour. Dissolve it in a little boiling water for a few minutes, add wine, lemon-juice, sugar, and flavouring according to taste, and pour into a damp mould. Keep it in a cool place until firmly set. If very stiff, it may be turned out more easily if dipped in boiling water for a moment. Probable cost, 6d. per quart packet. Gelatine Jelly (another way). Soak. one ounce of gelatine in half a i int of cold water for three-quarters of an hour. Stir it into a pint of boiling water, remove the scum as it rises, and when the gelatine is quite dissolved, strain it through a bag, and it is ready to be sweetened and flavoured in the same way as calf 's-feet jelly. In nearly all the recipes where isinglass is ordered, gelatine may be used, but, though. half the price, it is neither so nourishing nor so delicate in flavour. Probable cost, 6d. per ounce. Sufficient, one ounce of gelatine for a pint and a half of jelly, or a quart if jjlaced upon ice. Gelatine and Isinglass Jelly {s'r Isinglass and Gelatine Jelly) . General's Sauce. Put a tea-spoonful of cloves into a mortar with half a clove of garlic, one bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, the thinly-peeled rind of half a Seville orange, three minced shallots, a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a blade of mace, and one ounce of salt. Bruise them thoroughly. Put them into a stone jar, and j)om over them a cupful of sherry, two table-spoonfuls of verjuice, two of lemon-juice, and foiu- of vinegar. Cover the jar closely, and put it into a cool oven, or by the side of the fire, for five or six hours. Pour off the liquid gently, strain it, put it into small bottles, and keep them tightly corked. Sufficient, mix a tea -spoonful in haU a pint of melted butter or gravy, and taste if more be required. Probable cost, Is. per pint, exclusive of the sherry. Geneva Buns. Pub two ounces of butter into a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and set the sponge -with a dessert-spoonful of good yeast, mixed with half a pint of milk. Let it stand for nearly an hour, then work it GEN ( 247) GEN into a light dough, adding a well-beaten egg, mixed with a little lukewarm milk. A Jittle sugar, a few currants, and some chopped .candied lemon may be added. Cover the bowl .which contains the dough with a cloth, and put it by the side of the fire to rise. In about half an hour make it up into rolls ; brush these over with beaten egg, and bake in a good oven for twenty minutes or more. Probable cost, Id. ? each. Allow one or two for each person. Geneva Buns (another way). Rub three ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, and .set the sponge with a table-spoonful of yeast, .mixed with a pint of new milk ; add a little salt, .and some saffron water, if liked. Let it rise one hour. Beat two eggs, and stir in a quarter of a pint of hot milk; then knead up the dough with the eggs when milk-warm. Let the dough stay before the fire half an hour longer, then make small rolls, brush them with yolk of egg, and bake them from twenty to thirty minutes. If a rich bun is desired, add six oxmces of sugar, three ounces of butter, half a pound of currants, the grated rind of a lemon, and two ounces o2 candied orange-peel. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient for eighteen buns. Geneva Pudding (sometimes called George Pudding) . Put half a cupful of best Carolina ?rice into a saucepan with a pint of new milk, a piece of butter the size of a nut, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and three cloves. Simmer gently till the milk is absorbed, and the rice quite tender. Take out the cloves, beat the rice thoroughly, and add a dozen large apples, boiled till reduced to a pulp. When cold, mix with the rice and apples four well-beaten eggs, and a glass of sherry. Pour the mixture into a weU-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven till lightly browned. Serve with wine sauce. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the wiue. Sufficient for five or six persons. Geneva Wafers (a pretty dish for a juvenile party), liub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream, and mix with it, very smoothly, a quarter of a pound of flour, and three eggs, thoroughly whisked. Add three drops of the essence of vanilla, and three tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar. Beat with a wooden spoon untO. the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, then drop a dessert-spoonful at a time on a well-buttered baking-sheet, and put the wafers in a moderate oven. When sufficiently baked, take them out of the oven, twist them very carefully, , or they will break, to the shape of small comucopiaj , and put them in the oven a minute or two longer to get crisp. Half fill them with jam, and put a little whipped cream on the jam. The cream put in half of them might be slightly coloured with cochineal. Time, a quarter of an hour, or less, to bake. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Genevese Sauce (for gahnon, Trout, &c). Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan. Let it melt, then add three ounces of lean ham, cut into small pieces, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of parsley, a scraped carrot, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and a small onion, stuck with three cloves. Simmer gently for half an hour, then mix in, very smoothly, one table-spoonful of flour. Simmer three or four minutes longer, and pour in by degrees one j pint of good stock. Let aU stew gently for an hour. Strain, and return the sauce to the pan, thickening it with a little flour and butter, and adding a large wine-glassful of white wine, and a dessert- spoonful of lemon- juice. Season with salt and cayenne. Let the sauce boil after the thickening is added, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four pounds of fish. Genevese Sauce (another way). Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan. Let it melt, then add a sprig of thjone, a sprig of parsley, half a dozen mushrooms, a scraped carrot, a large onion, sliced, three or four cloves, a bay-leaf, and a blade of mace. Simmer very gently over the fire until the onion is soft, then pour over the mixture a pint and a half of stock. Ste-. for an hour or more. Strain, and return the sauce to the pan, thicken with a little flour and butter, add a glass of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, a tea-spoonful of ancho 'y essence, and a little salt and cayenne. Let it boU once, and serve as hot as possible. Time, nearly two lior.rs. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pint. Sufficient for five pounds of fish. Genoa Cake. Mix a quarter of a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon, orange, and citron together all being finely minced as much powdered cinnamon as will stand on a tlireepenny piece, six table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a poimd of flour, and the finely-chopped rind of a fresh lemon. Beat these ingredients for several minutes, with half a pound of clarified butter, four well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Put the mixture in a. well-buttered shallow tin, and bake about thi'ee-quarters of an hour. Mix the white of an egg with a table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, and a tea-spoonful of sherry. Brush the top of the cake with this, and strew some finely-chopped blanched almonds on the surface. Put it in the oven a few minutes longer, to brown the almonds slightly. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a tin two and a half inches deep, and four inches square. Genoa Sauce for Fish. Pound smoothly in a mortar half a clove of garlic, three dessert-spoonfuls of capers, a dessertspoonful of curry-powder, a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, and six boned anchovies. WTien thoroughly mixed, add four table-spoonfuls of sherry, a small tumblerful of cold water, and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil all together in a saucepan, and mix in half a pint of good melted butter. Time, a quarter of an hour to boU. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. Genoese Cake. Melt half a pound of butter by letting it stand near the fire. Mix thoroughly half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, a pinch of salt, and the finely -minced rind of a lemon. Make them into a paste with a wine-glassful of brandy, four eggs, well GEN ( 248 ) GER ?beaten, and the clarified butter. Beat for ten minutes with a wooden spoon. Pour the ndxture into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When the cake is sufficientlycooked (this may be ascertained by pushing a skewer into it, and if it comes out dry and clean it is done enough), take it out, and cover it with sugar and blanched almonds {see Genoa Cake). Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake, a quarter of an hour extra to brown the almonds. Sufficient for a pudding-dish two inches deep and five inches square. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Genoese Sauce for Pish. Make half a pint of good brown sauce, thickened with a little flour and butter. Put it into a saucepan, and stir into it a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a table-spoonful of port, twenty di-ops of the essence of anchovies, a dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and as much pounded mace us will stand on a thi-eepenny piece. Boil for five or six minutes, stirring all the time, and serve in a tm-een. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the port, Gd. for this quantity. Sufficient for rather more than half a pint of sauce. Genoises de Nouilles (sometimes called Genoises a laReine). Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs, and mix with them as much dried flour as will make a thick batter. Divide this into four parts, and roll each out as thin as possible. By the time all are rolled, the first one will be sufficiently dry to be cut into small strips, as thin as twine. Spread them on writing paper, and place them before the fire to dry. Drop them into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with six ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, aud the finely-grated rind of a large lemon. Simmer gently for thirty-five minutes, when the mixture should be a thick batter. It must be well stirred, particularly at first, to prevent it forming into lumps. Pour it out, and, as it cools, add the yolks of six eggs, well beaten. Butter a bakingtin, and pour the paste smoothly and evenly over it, making it about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Bake in a moderate oven until lightly browned. "When it is sufficiently cooked, divide it into two parts, spread a little jam over one half, turn the other half upon it, stamp out in fancy shapes with a cutter, and pile the genoises in a dish. This mixture is very good baked in tartlet tins, and eaten while hot. It does not improve with keeping. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. George Pudding. See Geneva Pudding (sometimes called George Pudding) . George the Pourth's Punch. Take a quarter of a pound of sugar in large lumps, and rub them upon one lemon and two Seville oranges, till all the yellow is rubbed oft". Put them into a large punch bowl, with the juice and pulp of the oranges and lemon, leave the sugar to soak a little while, then mix it thoroughly with the juice, and a cupful of boiling water, and stir untU nearly cold. Add half a pint of pine-apple sjTup, one pint of strong green tea, one large glass of maraschino. two table-spoonfuls of arrack, three tablespoonfuls of Jamaica rum, one pint of pale brandy, and one bottle of champagne. Strain, and serve. A little more sugar may be required, but this will depend on the acidity of the fruit. Time, one hour to prepare. Sufficient for three quarts of punch. German Asparagus Soup, Make two quarts of good white soup, either from bones or fresh meat {see Stock). Season it with salt and pepper, and thicken with a little fiour, mixed in milk till it is of Jie consistence of cream. Cut the green part of one hundred heads of asparagus into pieces, thi-ee-quarters of an inch long, put them into the soup, and boil until they are tender, but they must not be overcooked. If it is desired that the soup should be a little richer, add the yolks of three eggs, mixed with a little milk. The soup must be drawn from the fire a minute or two before the eggs are put in, and it miist not boil after they are added. Time, one houi-, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 9d. per quart, allowing 4d. per quart for stock made from bones, and a little fresh meat. German Biscuits. Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and stir into them half a pound of sifted loaf sugar. Beat them for twenty minutes, then add the peel of a small lemon, grated, two dessert-spoonfuls of cream, and, gradually, half a pound of fine flour. Mix all well together, roil the pastry out very thin, stamp it, with an ordinary pastry-cutter, into different shapes, and bake in buttered tins, m a quick oven, tUl lightly coloured, which will be in about seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, 6d. German Broth, or Winter Hptchpotch. Boil a neck of mutton, weighing about three poimds, in as much water as will cover it, with one pound of dried green peas, which have been soaked in cold water for some hours, one pinit and a half of carrots and turnips cut into slices, and a halfpenny-worth of bruised celery-seed, tied in a piece of muslin. Boil gently for one hour and a half. Add one pound of mutton chops, cut from the best end of the neck, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper. Boil half an hour longer, and serve. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. German Cakes. Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to a cream. Mix -svith it one pound and a half of sugar, four eggs well beaten two pounds of fine flour, half a nutmeg grated, one pound of diied and picked currants, and half a wine-glassful of rose-water. When all these ingredients are well-blended, roll the dough in sheets about the eighth of an inch in thickness, stamp them in rounds with the top of a tea-cup, and bake in a quick oven. Time, to bake ten or fifteen miiiutes. Probable cost, Is. lOd. German Cream. Tliis cream should be made in the evening of the day before it is wanted. Put half a pint of cream into a saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and the thinly-cut rind of half a lemon. Let it stand I Charuotte of Apples & Apricots. 2. Macaroni Milanaise, 3 . Salad Garnished. 4-. Mayonnaise OF Fowl 5 Partridges Garnished. GER ( '-249 ) GER near the fire for h;ilf an hour, to draw out the flavom- of the lemon, then bring it quickly to a boil, strain it, let it grow cold, and add the juice of the lemon, with three table-spoonfuls of brandy. Pour the cream quickly backwards and forwai-ds from one j ug to another, from a good height, for twenty minutes, then put it into the dish in which it is to be served. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for nearly thi-ee-quarters of a pint of cream. German Croustades. Cut some stale crumb of bread or roll into slices three-quarters of an inch thick, and stamp them in rounds about three inches in diameter. Poiur a little clarified butter over the roxmds, and let them soak ia it until soft Cut out of the centre of each a smaller circle, about one inch and a half in diameter, and be careful to leave the outer ring imbroken. Fry the croustades in hot butter, until lightly browned ; fill them with a nicely-flavoui-ed mince, made of the remains of cold meat or poultry ; cover this with finely-grated bread-crumbs, fried in butter {see Crumbs, Fried), and brown them as quickly as jDossible with a salamander. Time, five or aix minutes to fry. Probable cost, 3d. per dozen, exclusive of the mince. German Dumplings, or Dampfnud.eln. Mix two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, or one ounce of German yeast, with a cupful of lukewarm milk. Add one table-spoonful of sifted sugar, two eggs, well beaten, and a quarter of a pound of butter, Hielted, but not oiled. AVhen these ingredients are well-mixed, add one ?pound of flour, and beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and light, and droits from the spoon. Cover the bowl which contains it with a cloth, and put it in a wann place for half an hour or more, to rise. Turn it out on a well-floured pastry-board, divide it into small balls about the size of an egg, and let them rise a few minutes longer. Butter the bottom of a shallow tin rather thickly. Strew a little powdered sugar over it, and put in milk an inch deep. Let this boil. Place the dumplings in the pan as gently as possible, or roU them in ofE an egg-slice, and leave a little distance between each. Put on the cover, place the pan in the oven, and bake until the milk is boiled away, and the dumplings have acquired a nice brown crust. Put them on a hot dish, and send stewed fruit, sweet sauce, or custard to table with them. They may be put into the saucepan with the milk cold, and placed by the side of the fire until they have risen to double their original size, then be put into the oven to brown. Time, three-quarters of an hour for the dumplings to brown ; or a quarter of an hour for them to rise, and ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for one dozen dumplings. German Fritters, or Brioche Fritters. Take as much brioche paste (see Brioche Paste) as may be required. Roll it out till it is a quarter of an inch in thickness. Stamp it into small rounds with the top of a wine glass, put a small piece of jam on half of these, moisten the edges, and cover each one with a similar round to that on which the jam is laid. Press 17 the two pieces of paste securely together, lay the wine-glass or cutter once more over them, to trim them evenly; then put the fritters gently and carefully into a pan of hot fat, and fry them until lightly browned. "When done, drain them from the fat, and serve as hot as possible. They should be piled on a hot napkin, with a little sifted sugar and powdered cinnamon strewn over them. Brioche paste is even better served thus than in the ordinary way. German Fritters (another sort).- Take seven or eight large sound baking apples, pare them, and scoop out the core without breaking the apples. Cut them into round slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and simmer them in a saucepan, with a cupful of brandy, the thin rind of a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sugar, till they are tender, but unbroken. Drain them, dip them into a little flour, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, and strain a little finelysifted sugar over them. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. German Frying Batter. Thoroughly mix six ounces of flour with one ounce of melted, but not oiled, butter, the yolk of an egg, and two table-spoonfuls of water. Add a pinch of salt, and, verj' gradually, a quarter of a pint of mild ale. Beat the ingredieiits with a wooden spoon till they are smoothly blended. This batter is better for being made two or three hours before it is wanted. Just before using, add the white of an egg, beaten to a solid froth. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for about one and a half or two pounds of meat or vegetables. German Konglauffe. Work ten ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, which has been well-rubbed on a large lemon, and afterwards poimded, half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a nutmeg, grated, four ounces of fine flour, and two eggs, well beaten. Work these ingredients together for a few minutes, then add threequarters of a pound more flour, two whole eggs, and the yolks of four. These should be put in gradually. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of German yeast in a small tea-cupful of lukeAvarmmilk. Work this in with the rest. Butter a quart mould. Blanch and slice four ounces of sweet almonds, put them in neat layers round the inside of the mould, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as the konglaiiife is sufficiently baked, turn it out, strew a little powdered cinnamon over it, and return it to the oven for three or four minutes. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for a quart mould. German Onion Beef. Put four or five pounds of the thin end of the flank of beef into a stewpan, with sufficient water to cover it, one dessert-spoonful of salt and a little mushn bag containing one dozsn bruised cloves, two dozen peppercorns, one bay-leaf, and the thin rind of a large lemon. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Add eight large onions, cut into slices, and GER (250) GEB isimmer again till tlicy arc tender. Eemovo the scum carefully as it rises. Take out the muslin bag, and thicken the gravy with one tahlc-spoonf ul of flour, mixed with two of cold water. IServe ?on a hot dish, and place the meat in the same 4isli with the onions, ?S:c. Time, an houi- and a quarter. Prohahlo cost, beef, 9d. per lb. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Gsrinail Paste. Mix one pound of fine fiour with two ounces of pounded sugar, a pinch ?of salt, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Hub in half a pound of butter, and make it into a smooth paste with the yolks of two eggs beaten with a table-spoonful of water. Roll the paste out in thin sheets, and fold it over two or three times. If intended for fruit pies or tarts, the sugar is .better omitted. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. German Pudding, Baked. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, with the thinlypeeled rind of a large lemon. Let it stand by the side of the fire, to draw out the flavour of the lemon, and, when it is warm, stir into it till melted a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Let it get nearly cold. Mix two ounces of flour very smoothly with a little cold milk, and mix it gradually with the milk and butter. Sweeten the mixture with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and put in the yolks of four, and the whites of two, eggs, well-beaten. Three-parts fill some ?well-buttered cups with the mixture, and turn out. Put two well-beaten eggs, two glasses -of sherry, and four lumps of sugar into an enamelled saucepan. Beat over the fire to a froth, pour round the puddings, and sers-e immediately. Time, to bake half an hour. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for eight or nine cups. German Pudding, Boiled Put the thin rind of a large lemon into half a pint of milk. Let the milk stand for half an hour, then boil, and pour it over half a pound of stale crumbs of bread, finely grated. When cool, beat it with s. fork, take out the lemon-rind, and add three ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, and four eggs, well beaten. Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, put in a layer of the soaked bread-crumbs, &c., then a layer of either good jam or marmalade, and repeat until the mould is full. Put soaked bread at the top. Cover with buttered paper, tie the mould in a 'cloth, and boil or steam the pudding. Serve with -German pudding sauce {see German Pudding Sauce). Time, to boil or steam an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five 'Or six persons. German Pudding, Brown Bread. Dry half a pound of brown bread in the oven the day before it is wanted, and gxate it finely. Lot it soak for half an hour in a wine-glassful ?of sheny or boiling milk, and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugaa-, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, a tea-spoonful of finelychopped lemon-rind, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, two table-spoonfuls of picked r.-dsins, the same of currants, and the well? beaten j'olks of six eggs. When these ingreviJents are feoroughly blended, butter a mould, I add to the above-mentioned ingTcdients the whites of the eggs, beaten to a fiiin froth, pour the mixture into the mould, and boil or steam the jiudding. AVTien sufficiently cooked, turn it out, and serve with wine or Gemian pudding sauce {see Gemian Pudding Sauce). Time to boil, an houi- and a half. Probable cost, Is. 2d., exclusive of the wine and sauce. Snfficient for five or six persons. German Pudding, Rice (excellent). Stew a quarter of a pound of the best Carohna rice in a pint of Doilk, till it is very tender and dry ; let it cool, then mix with it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, three tablespoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar, three ounces of stoned raisins, half a tea-siDoonful of powdered cinnamon, and the yolks of three eggs. Add each ingredient separately, and mix thoroughly. Butter a mould, and, just before pouring the I mixture in, add the whites of the eggs, beaten j to a solid froth. Cover with buttered paper, tie in a cloth, and boil. Turn out, and serve with German pudding sauce {see German Pudding Sauce). Boil an hoirr and a half. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. German Pudding Sauce. Boil half a pint of light wine with tha-ee large lumps of sugar. AVlien quite hot, pour the wine over the yolks of two eggs, and beat thoroughly over a slow fire, till it froths and looks like custard. The sauce must on no account boil, or it will curdle. Just before serving, add the juice of a lemon. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint of sauce. This is a very good sauce for a boiled pudding. German Puffs.- Put a quarter of a pint of new milk into a saucepan, -VAdthtwo ounces of fresh butter. When it boils, mix smoothly with it two table-spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt, half a small nutmeg, grated, and one heaped table-spoonful of sugar. When cool, add two well-beaten eggs. Butter some cups, rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Serve as hot as possible, with wine or sweet sauce. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five cups. German Puffs, Almond. Blanch and pound one ounce of sweet, and two of bitter almonds, with a little orange-flower or rosewater; add four table-spoonfuls of new milk, and a dessert-spoonful of flour, smoothly mixed with another table-spoonful of millv, the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs, a tiny pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of sugar. Beat thoroughly. Butter some cups, rather more than half fiU them, and bake in a quick oven. Serve as hot as possible, with -nnne or sweet sauce. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four cups. German Salad. Take any Icind of cold boiled vegetable, such as aibbage, cauHflower, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, sea-kale, or a little of three or four kinds. Cut them into small pieces, and, if the flavoiu: is liked, add chopped onion, or chopped raw apple. Season with GER ( 251 ) GHE pepper and salt, and add two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of oil, to every two pounds of vegetables. Serve m a salad-bowl, and garnish with sliced beetroot and parsley. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. German Sauce (for brawn, cold pickled pork, or boar's head). Dissolve a quarter of a pound of red currant jelly, and mix with, it the juice, and thinly-shred rind of a large orange, a heaped table-spoonful of scraped horseradish, a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and four of salad-oil. Put the sauce in a cool place till wanted, and send to table in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 9d. Suffitiient for half a pint of sauce. German Soup. Fry half an ounce of cmnmin-seod in a little hot butter, for a few minutes ; keep moving them about all the time. Pour upon them three quarts of good, nicelyflavoured chicken-broth, and simmer gently for nearly an hour. Season with pepper and salt, put some toasted sippets in the tureen, and strain the soup over them. The above quantities are suflicient for three pints of soup. German Toast. Take the remains of cold stew, or fricassee. Mince it finely, and mix with a pint of it, including the gravy, two well-beaten eggs, one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and one onion, finely minced. Stir the nuxture over a slow fire until it is thick, and onethird of it boiled away. Let it get quite cold. Spread it on pieces of toast, brush it over with beaten egg, strew bread-crumbs on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Just before ser dng, squeeze a little lemon-jmce over the toast. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour, or until the toast is thoroughly heated through. German Yeast. German yeast is now very generally used, owing to the difficulty of obtaining brewer's yeast without its being so bitter as to spoil the bread. It is very excellent ?when it can be obtained fresh and sweet, but care should be taken that is so, as it quickly deteriorates in quality, and is then exceedingly unwholesome. It should be dissolved very gradually, with a httle warm water, or warm milk and water, and stirred until it is perfectly smooth and creamy. Probable cost. Id. per ounce. Sufficient, one ounce for a quartern, half a gallon, or three pounds and a half of flour. German Yeast Bread. Put some flour (the quantity to be regulated by the size of the family) into a bowl. To one quartern allow one tea-spoonful of salt, one ounce of German yeast, and one quart of new milk. If this cannot be procured, milk and water, or water only, may be used ; but bread is always nicer when made with milk. Dissolve the yeast smoothly and gradually with a little [lukewarm liquid ; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and put it in ; mix it -with sufficient flour to make a batter; strew a httle flour over the top, and leave the leaven to rise. When it is swollen and cracked, the bread should be kneaded at once, and should be done thoroughly, as on this its quality verv much depends. It should be quite firm and smooth. Leave it in the bowl, make one or two shght gashes with a knife on the surface, cover it with a cloth, and, if it be winter time, leave it near the fire to rise, but not sufficiently near to make it hot. In about an hour it will have risen considerably, and be ready for making into loaves of any size that may be desired. Let them rise a minute or two after being put into the tins, and prick them lightly in one or two places with a fork, to let the steam escape. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about two hours for a quartern loaf. It is to be added that if a larger quantity of flour is used, so that all the dough cannot be baked at once, that which is left in the bowl must be kept in a moderate temperature, neither very warm nor very cold. Gherkins. Gherkins are young cuciimbers, and are only used for pickling. They should be gathered on a dry day, and those in one bottle should be, as nearly as possible, uniform in size. They are not really good for much in flavour until they are about three and a half inches long, and three-quarters of an inch in diameter. They may be had in July and August, and the best time for pickling them is about the end of August, or the beginning of September. Like other pickles, their excellence depends, in a great measure, on their being kept covered with vinegar. A mixture of French beans and gherkins makes a nice pickle. Gherkins, Pickled.- Put the gherkins into a large stone jar, and cover them with brine strong enough to carry an egg. Place the co 'er on the jar, and leave it for two or three days, until the gherkins begin to turn yellow; then drain them, and pour boiling vinegar over them. Put bay-leaves on the tojD, keep the jar in a warm place, and heat the vinegar afresh every day, till the gherkins turn as green as you wish. Boil fresh vinegar, and with it one large blade of mace, two ounces of whole pepper, four bay-leaves, and half a dozen small sdycr onioias to each quart. Put the gherkins into wide-mouthed bottles, pour the vinegar over them, first allowing it to cool a little, or it will orack the bottles, r.nd cork seemely when cold. Time, from a week to a fortnight. Probable cost. Is. j er pint bottle. If the vinegar be boiled in a copper saucepan, it will make the gherkens a beautiful colour, but poisonous. Gherkins, Pickled (French method). TliTOw the gherkins into a saucepan of boiling water, let them boil one minute, then take them out, and throw them at once into plenty of cold water ; change the water once or twice, and when the gherkins are quite cold, spread them on sieves to dry. Put them into a large bowl, and pour over them as much boiling vinegar as will completely cover them. Let them stand in this for twenty-four hours, and repeat the process for three days. The last time, boil in the vinegar one ounce of salt, half an ounce of whole pepper, a few sprigs of tanagon, a large blade of mace, and four bay-leaves, with every quart of liquid. Put the gherkins into the boiling vinegar, let them remain for two minutes, then place them in wide-mouthed GIB (252) GIB tottles, and pour the vinegar over them. Cork the bottles securely, and put away for use. More vinegar must be added when required. Probable cost, Is. per pint bottle. Giblet Pie. Take one set of goose giblets. If not already cleaned, wash them in warm water several times. Take the gall from the liver, and cut it and the heart into two pieces. Pick the head well, soak it in hot water, and chop off the beak. Skin the feet and the gizzard, and cut the feet with the pinions into two pieces, the neck and the gizzard into four each. Put all into a saucepan with cold water, let the contents just boil, then take them out, drain them, throw away the water, and put them, with fresh water, again into the pan. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two onions. Simmer gently until done enough. Pour the giblets into a bowl, and let them get cold. Unless this is done the flavour of the giblets will spoil the pie-crust. Lay one pound of steak, cut into ijiecos about an inch and a half square, at the bottom of the pie-dish. If beef-steak is used, it must be stewed in a separate saucepan until nearly tender before being put into the pie. "With rump-steak this is not necessary. Put the cold giblets among the pieces of steak. Strain as much of the liquid as will not quite cover the meat in the pie. Line the edge with a good light crust, place a cover over the whole, brush it with yolk of egg, and ornament it with pastry leaves. Bake in a good oven. Just before serving, make a slight incision in the crust, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of boiling cream ; or, thicken the gravy in which the giblets were stewed with a little flour and butter, or flour mixed with water; brown it, and add to it a glass of port wine Pour part of this into the pie, and add the rest just before serving. A giblet pie should never be eaten cold. Time, from one to two hours to stew the giblets if the goose is yoiuig, one hour will be sufiicient when the gizzard is tender the giblets are done enough; an hour and a half to stew beef-steak ; one hour to bake the pie. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufiicient for half a dozen persons. Giblet Pie (another way). Prepare and stew the giblets as in the last recipe. Let them got cold, and put them into a pie-dish, ?with a chicken, cut into neat joints, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Cover the whole with a good light crust, and bake in a good oven. Before sending the pie to table, mix a small cupful of the gravy in which the giblets were stewed with two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and a wine-glassful of sherry, and pour it hot into the dish. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Giblet Soup, Take two sets of goose giblets. Prepare them in the same way as for gifclet pie {see Giblet Pie), cutting the gizzard into small pieces about half an inch squaie, or it will not be tender until the rest is in rags, and put all into a stewpan with a s!i' e of lean ham cut into dice, and a small piece of butter. Fry the giblets a few minutes; then' add to them two quarts of good stock, an onion stuck with five or six cloves, two or three sprigs of marjoram, thyme, or winter savoury, a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a draclmi of bruised celery-seeds tied in a muslin bag. Simmer gently for two hours, then take out the giblets, and put them into a tureen. Strain the soup, and thicken it with one ounce of butter, mixed smoothly over the fire with a table-spoonful of flour, until slightly browned, but not burned, and added gradually to the liquid. Let it boil for a quarter of an hour, then return the giblets to it for a few minutes, to get hot, and serve with toasted sijjpets. Giblet soup is very good for ordinary domestic use. The giblets should be tender, but not too much boiled. Before putting them into the tureen they should all be cut into mouthfuls. The giblets of the cygnet make the best soup, but they are not often to be had. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Giblet Soup, Duck's. Very good soup may be made of the giblets of ducks. The same directions may be followed as we have given for goose giblets, but as ducks are so much smaller, four sets of these must be used, where two sets only of goose giblets would be necessary. Giblet Soup, German. Put one quart of haricot beans into cx)ld water to soak the day before the soup is wanted, then drain them, boil them until quite tender, and press half of them through a coarse sieve. Stew the giblets, as in the last recipe but one, with two quarts of stock, and seasoning. When the giblets are tender, cut them into small pieces, strain the souj), and mix it smoothly with the beans, both mashed and whole ; add the giblets, let them get hot once more, and ser\-e. The soup should be as thick as cream. A variation may be made by boiling very small potatoes instead of beans in the soup until tender, but unbroken. Time, two hours and a half to prepare the soup. Sufiicient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, beans, 4d. or 6d. per quart ; giblets, 6d. per set. Giblets, To Ste"W. Prepare one set of goose giblets in the same way as for a pie. Cut them into small, convenient-sized pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with a sprig of marjoram, the same of thyme, two sprigs of parsley, a Spanish onion, stuck with three cloves, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful and a half of salt, a blade of mace, and a grain of cayenne. Rub the saucepan once with garlic, and add one pint and a haK of stock. Simmer gently imtil all are tender, and as the pieces of meat become so, remove them until the rest are sufiiciently cooked. The liver and pinions wiM be done enough first, and the gizzard last. When all the pieces of meat are taken out, thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, boat the giblets, and serve as hot as possible. A few mushrooms, or a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a dessert-spoonful of lemonjuice, is an improvement. Time, from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the age of the goose. Probable cost, giblets, from 6d. to Is. per set. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Giblets, To Stew (another way). Prepjire the giblets as before, and simmer them in GIB ( 253 ) GIN just as much water as will cover thorn. Melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan ; put with them two large Sj ' ' sh onions, choijped small. Cover the pan, and let them remain until tender. Add to them gradually the liquid in which the giblets have been stewed, and season rather highly with salt and cayenne. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with a little water, and add it to the onion sauce. Put in the giblets, and let all boil together for twenty minutes. Time, two hours. Probable cost, giblets, 6d. to Is. per set. Sufficient for four or five persons. Giblets with Apples (a German recipe). Prepare the giblets as before. Take eight large apples, peel, core, and quarter them, and let them boil until they are tender, but unbroken, with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, four table-spoonfuls of water, and the thinly-peeled rind of a lemon. Put a piece of . butter, about the size of an egg, into a saucepan, mix with it, very smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour, and stir it over the tire until slightly browned. Add three table-spoonfuls of the apple- juice, and three table-spoonfuls of the liquid in which the giblets were stewed. Let these boil, then add them to the rest of the giblet gravy. Wash two table-spoonfuls of grocer's currants, and strew them over the giblets. Heat all together, colour rather darkly with a few drops of brov 'ning {sec Browning), and arrange on a hot dish, with the giblets in the centre, the pieces of apple round, and the gravy, -with the currants, poured over all. Time, about two hours. Probable cost, giblets, 6d. to Is. per set; apples, 8d. per dozen. Sufficient for four or five persons. Giblets withi Pears (a German recipe). Put four pork chops into a saucepan, lay upon them a set of goose giblets, prepared as for Giblet Pie, and just cover them with cold water or stock. Season them with pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently until done. Drain them, and put the gravy into another saucepan, with one dozen of stewing pears, peeled and quartered, one dozen of cloves, and two table-spoonfuls of brown sugar. Let the pears stew until they are tender, but unbroken. Colour rather darkly with a few drops of browning, put in the meat until thoroughly heated, and serve with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, from two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Giblets with Turnips (a German recipe). Prepare and simmer the giblets as before. When about half-done, put with them three good-sized turnips, cut into round slices, half an inch in thickness. Let them remain until they are quite tender, but unbroken. Thicken the gravy \\'ith a little flour, add a few drops of browning, and serve as hot as possible. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Gin Punch. Peel very thinly the rind of a large lemon, and put it, \?ith a table-spoonful of the juice, in a bowl. Pour over it two tablespoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, and one pint of fresh spring water. Let it stand for half an hour. Then add half a pint of gin, a wine glassful of maraschino, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded ice. Just before serving, add two bottles of soda-water. Time, about threequarters of an hour to prepare. Sufficient for two quarts of punch. Gin Sling (an American di-ink). Put half a small lemon, cut into thin slices, into a large tumbler, with a dessert-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar. Fill the glass with ice, finely pounded, and add a wine-glassful of the best gin. Drink through a reed. Ginger. This well-known spice is the creeping root of a tropical plant. Most of that used in Britain is imported from the East and West Indies. It is of use, not only in domestic economy, as a condiment, but in medicine, as a stimulant and carminative. As a sj ice, ginger is best suited for persons of relaxed habit. Two kinds are met with, the dark-coated and the pale-peeled. Of these, the latter is the best. Ginger and Bread Pudding. Pour half a pint of boiling milk over half a pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and let the latter soak for an hour. Then mix with them three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, three wellbeaten eggs, a dessert-spoonful of ginger syrup, j and four ounces f preserved ginger, cut into ? small pieces. Beat all thoroughly with a fork, pour into a well-oiled mould, steam, and, when done, tm-n out with care. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Time, one hour and a half to steam. Ginger Beer. Put the thinly-peeled rind of four lemons into a large earthen pan with the strained juice, two ounces of bruised ginger, two and a half pounds of loaf sugar, and half an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour over these ingredients two and a half gallons of boiling water, and, when lukewarm, add two table-spoonfuls of fresh brewer's yea.st. Stir the liquid, and leave it to ferment until the next day. Skim the yeast from the top, pour the beer carefully from the sediment, and bottle for use. The corks should be perfectly sound, put into boiling water just before being used, and then securely wired do-\\Ti. The ginger-beer will be ready for use in two days. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for three dozen and a half ginger-beer bottles. Ginger Biscuits. Hub four pounds of fresh butter into half a pound of flour, and add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, haK an ounce of gTOund ginger, and one egg beaten up with a little milk to a smooth paste. Make up into small round biscuits, and bake on buttered paper for eight or ten minutes ; leave a little distance between each cake. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for about two dozen biscuits. Gingerbread (a la Soyer). Mix half a pint of treacle and about one ounce of powdered ginger (more or less, according to taste) with one pound of flour. Stir well together, to fonn a stiff dough, roll it out thin, cut it into small rounds with a pastry-cutter, and bake on a buttered tin, in a good oven for five or six minutes till crisp. A small lump of butter may be rubbed in if desired. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for two dozen Giisr (254) GIN cakes. Keep closely covered in a tin tox. These cakes aro good for assisting digestion. Gingerbread, Almond. Mix one ounce of gToand ginger with a quarter of a pound of ground rice, and three-quarters of a pound of best flour. Put into a jar one pound of treacle, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, the thinly-peeled rind of two lemons, cut into thin slices, and six ounces of sweet almonds, with four or five bitter ones, pounded in a mortar, with a few drops of water, to prevent oiling. Place the jar near the lire, and when the butter is melted, pour all into the flour. Beat till quite light, and bake in a quick ovon, on a buttered tin for thirty minutes, if made in small cakes. Pr.obable cost, Is. 8d. for this quantity. Gingerbread, American, Mix well together a pound of sifted sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, half a nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-rind, three pounds and a half of flour, a pound of chopped raisins, and a pound of currants, an ounce of carbonate of soda, and two ounces of chopped candied peel. "Warm a pound of treacle; stir into it threequarters of a pound of butter, and six eggs. .Beat the whole, until thoroughly mixed, with a cupful of milk. Pour it iii a well-oiled dish, or shallow tin, and bake in a slow oven for two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. Gingerbread, Cocoa-nut. Proceed in the same way as directed for Almond Gingerbread {see Gingerbread, Abnond), substituting rasp'ed cocoa-nut for pounded almonds. Gingerbread, Fanny's. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a jar with half a pound of treacle, and place the jar near the tire till the butter is melted. Mix well, adding one table-spoonful of oatmeal, half an ounce of sifted ginger, the rind of a lemon, cut into thin slices, and as much flour as will make a stiif firm batter. Pour into a weU-buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. Time, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for a pint mould. Gingerbread Fingers, American. Warm half a pound of best treacle. Stir into it a piece of butter the size of an es;g, and four table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Take a little powdered allspice, a heaped tea-spoonful of ground ginger, the rind of a lemon chopped fine, and a pound of the best flour. IVIix all the dry ingredients together, and stir the treacle and butter into them. Last of all, dissolve an ounce of carbonate of soda in a table-spoonful of warm cream, and put it with the rest. Work all well together for some time. Roll the mixture out to the thickness of haH an inch. Divide it into " fingers," and put at once on well-oiled tins, in a moderate oven. Put the fingers in a dry place, not exposed to the air, and they will be the better for a month's keeping. Time to bake, an hour or more. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Gingerbread, Flemish. Warm one pound of treacle in a bowl before the fire, and stir into it six ounces of butter. When dissolved, beat in as much flour, with two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal and half an ounce of powdered ginger, as will form a stiff firm batter. Beat it till smooth, and add two oimces of candied lemon sliced as thin as possible. Butter some moulds, and bake in a quick oven for nearly an hour. Probable cost. Is. '2d. Gingerbread, French (sec Gateau d'Epico). Gingerbread, German. IMelt one pound of honey in a saucepan ; and when it is quite hot, mix with it six ounces of moist sugar, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, two ounces of candied lemon, cut into thin slices, four ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, and sufficient flour to make it into a stiff paste. lloU the paste out two or three times, so as to have it quite smooth and stiff ; make it into cakes of any shape or size, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and bake on buttered tins in a moderate ovon for half an hour or more. Probable cost. Is. 8d. for this quantity. Gingerbread, Honeycomb. Put four ounces of fresh butter into a jar, near the fire, with half a pound of treacle, and half a pound of moist sugar. Mix half a pound of flour with one table-spoonful of ground ginger, the finely-chopped rind and juice of half a large lemon, and one tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. When the butter is melted, mix it with the treacle, &c., into the flour, and beat aU together for some minutes. Spread the mixture very thinly upon buttered baking-tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Watch it jiarticularly, and as soon as the gingerbread is done enough, take it out, cut it into squares, and curl each square round the finger. Keep closely covered in a tin box. This gingerbread wiU keep three or four weeks, but is best when newly made. Should it lose its crispness, it should be put into the oven for two or three minutes before being used. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, lOd. for tliis quantity. Gingerbread, Hunters'. Beat three ounces of butter to a cream ; add one pound and a half of flour, three ounces of moist sugar, one ounce of sifted sugar, one ounce of candied peel, cut into thin strips, two or three drops of essence of lemon, and mix in one pound of treacle, slightly warmed, to make a smooth, firm paste. Roll out on a floured pastry-board, cut it into strips, about three inches long and one broad, and bake on a buttered tin, in a slow oven. Store in a closely-covered tin box. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Gingerbread, Imperial. Beat three ounces of butter to a cream. Mix with it six ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, a dessertspoonful of caraway-seeds, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered ginger. Stir three ounces of treacle into half a pint of new milk, make the whole into a paste, and bake on buttered tins in round cakes or fingers. Stick on the cakes a little candied peel, cut into strips. Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Gingerbread, Indian {sec Indian Gin gerbi-ead) . Gingerbread Leek (excellent) . ilix thoroughly, -one ounce and a half of ginger in one pound and a half of flour; add one pound and a quarter of sugar, and two ounces of candied peel, cut very tine. Melt together GIN ( 265 ) GIN haU' a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound of the best treacle. Stir these into the flour, &c., flavour with tliree di-ops of essence of lemon, or more, if liked, and make the mixture into a smooth, finn paste, with three eggs, well beaten. Roll out on a floured board, and cut the paste into fingers. Bake in a good oven for ten minutes. Store in a closely-covered tin box. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. Gingerbread, Lemon. Rub the rinds of two large, or thi-ee small lemons, upon two or tlu-ee large lumps of sugar, till all the yellow part is taken off. Beat the sugar to a powder, mix it \\'ith a pound of floui-, and add half an ounce of ground ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper. Put half a pound of butter into a jar near the fii'e, with half a pound of treacle. When the butter is melted, stir into it the strained juice of the lemon, mixed with a glass of brandy. Mix all with the flour, &c., and bake in round cakes, or fingers, on buttered tins, in a moderate oven. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 4d. for this quantity. GingerbreacJ. Loaf (good). Put six ounces of butter into a jar near the fire, with one pound of the best treacle. Let the butter melt, then add two ounces of candied lemon, cut into narrow strips, half an ounce of powdered ginger, half an ounce of caraway-seeds, five eggs, well beaten, and as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Beat it well for some minutes, till it is quite smooth and light, put it into a wellbuttered tin, about two inches deep, and bake in a slow oven three-quarteis of an hour. When baked, let the loaf remain a little while in the tin before tui-ning out. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Gingerbread Loaf (another way) . Rub half a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of floup; add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of baking-powder, and one ounce of ground ginger. Stir in two pounds of warmed treacle. Bake immediately, in a buttered tin, in a slow oven, for one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufiicient for a nine-inch tin. Gingerbread Loaf, Plain. Put two pounds of treacle into a jar near the fire, with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a ounce of carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in a very little milk, and strained, and four ounces of moist sugar. Mix an ounce of powdered ginger, and one small nutmeg, grated, with about three pounds of flour. WTien the butter is melted, stir the treacle &c., into the flour, and bake in a well-buttered, shallow tin, in a slow oven, for one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufiicient for a nine-inch tin. Gingerbread, Mrs. Fletcher's. (An Ediuburgh recipe.) Mi.x half a pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of powdered ginger, with one pound of fine flour. Put haK a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of treacle, into a jar near tiie fire. When the butter is melted, mix it with the fiour \'hile wai-m, and spread the mixture thinly on buttered tins. Mark it in squares before baking, and as soon as the gingerbiead is baked enough, separate it at the marks before it has time to harden. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Gingerbread, Mrs. Smith's. Melt together three-quarters of a poimd of treacle, a quarter of a pound of honey, and half a pound of frosh butter. Mix one pound of flour with two ounces of candied lemon, chopped small, one ounce of powdered ginger, and half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon. Beat all v.-ell together, and bake in well-buttered, shallow tins, in a moderate oven. Time, about one hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Gingerbread Nuts. It is well to make the paste for these nuts an hour or two before baking them, and put it in a cool place. Rub three ounses of butter into one pound of flour; add the finely-chopped rind and juice of half a lemon, and a dessertspooriful of ground ginger. Put a table-spoonful of honey into a quarter of a pound of treacle. Let them melt over the fire for a fcAV minutes, stirring them well together, then mix them into the other ingredients. RoU thepaste on a floured board to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it into small round cakes, and bake on tins in a good oven, till crisp. Probable cost, 6d. Gingerbread, Orange. Chop half a pound of candied orange peel very finely, and mix it with one ounce of ground ginger, one nutmeg, grated, three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, and two pounds and a quarter c ' flour. Melt three-quarters of a pound of butter in a pound and three-quarters of treacle ; stir this well into the rest, and let aU stand in a cool place for two or three hours. Roll the paste out on a floured board to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut it into fingers, and bake on a buttered tin, leaving a little fHstance between each finger. Beat the yolk of an egg with a little milk, and biush the gingerbread over with it both before and after putting it into the oven. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Gingerbread Parkin (to be made for the 5th of November). Rub half a pound of butter and half a pound of fresh lard into four pounds of oatmeal, or flour and oatmeal mixed. Add half a pound of brown sugar and an ounceof gTound ginger. Mix three pounds and a half of treacle with a cupful of new milk ; stii these into the flour, &c., and bake in a very moderate oven, either in buttered patty-pans or dripping-tins till brightly browned, about twenty minutes if baked in patty pans, and one hour and a half in large dishes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Gingerbread, Powder for Making. Pound thoroughly in a mortar two oxmces of coriander-seed, two ounces of caraway-seed, twoounces of groxmd ginger, half an ounce of grated nutmeg, half an ounce of cloves, tlu-cequarters of an ounce of fennel-seed, and threequarters of an oimce of aniseed. Keep thepowder in a bottle, closely corked. To niake gingerbread, dissolve two pounds of sugar in a pint of water, and make up into a paste with a quartern of flour and an ounce of he powder. The gingerbread may be baked either in a mould or in small tins. Time to prepare, hali an hour. GIN ( 256 ) GIN Gingerbread Pudding. Rub a quarter pf a pound of butter or good beef dripping into +ne pound of flour ; add a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, a heaped tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and sufficient treacle warmed in a table-spoonful of milk to make a light, smooth paste. Pour into a buttered mould, and boil for two hours. Ser%-e with treacle sauce. Probable cost, 5d. SuSiciont for four or five persons. Suitable for the nursery. Gingerbread Pudding (another way). Grato six ounces of stale bread very finely. Mix it with three ounces of flour and six ounces of finely-shred beef suet. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, a tea-spoonful of bakingpowder, and two or three drojjs of almond or lemon flavouring. Make up into a smooth paste with half a pound of treacle, slightly warmed. Pour into a buttered mould, and boil for two hours. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for four persons. Gingerbread Sugar. Vhisk well two fresh eggs, and add gradually half a i ound of sifted loaf sugar, half an ounce of ground ginger, and half a pound of fine flour. A little water may be added if the paste is too stifl:'. Bake in round cakes for fifteen minutes on a buttered tin. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Gingerbread, Thick. Mix half an ounce of carbonate of soda, perfectly free from lumps, with two pounds of flour ; add six ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of powdered ginger, and half an ounce of ground carawayseed. Melt half a pound of fresh butter in two pounds of treacle. Mix this gradually with the flour it must not be hot, or the gingerbread will be heavy and add, last of all, three well-beaten e gs. IlaK fill shallow tins, well buttered, with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Brush the gingei-bread over with the .yolk of an egg, mixed with a little milk, before it is put into the oven, and again two or three minutes before it is taken out. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. Gingerbread, White. Rub three ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of flour ; add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar, the finely-chopped rind of a small lemon, half a nutmeg, grated, and as much carbonate of soda as will lie on a sixpence, dissolved in half a cupful of lukewami milk. jNIix all together to a smooth, fimi batter, roll it out on a floured board, stamp it into rounds with the top of a wine-glass, and bake immediately in a moderate oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. for tliis quantity. Gingerbi'ead without Butter. Cut into very thin slices four ounces of candied lemon, orange, and citron. Mix them with an ounce of ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander-seed, and half an ounce of caraway-seed. Stir these into one pound of treacle, and add as much flour as will make a smooth paste. Drop from the end of a knife upon oven-tins, and bake in a brisk oven. This gingerbread will keep some time, if kept closely covered in tin boxes. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. Ginger Candy. Make a thin syrup, by boiling one pound of refined loaf sugar with a cupful of water. Flavour it with a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger-root, and colour with a little saft'ron. As the syrup boils, keep moving it against the side of the pan, and when it turns white it is done enough. Pour it out as quickly as possible, or it will turn to powder. The candy may be put upon sheets of thick writingpaper, which have been laid upon cold dishes. It should be removed when warm, but Avill break if touched while hot. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Ginger Cordial. Pick two pounds of white or black currants. Bruise them slightly, and mix with them one ounce and a half of ground ginger. Pour over them one quart of good whisky or brandy, and let them stand for two days. Strain off the liquid, add one pound of loaf sugar, boiled to a syrup, with a small tea-cupful of water. Bottle, and cork closely for use. Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for thi-ee pints of cordial. Ginger Cream. Cut four ounces of preserved ginger into thin slices. Put one ounce of best isinglass into a saucepan, with a pint of milk and four table-spoonf ids of sugar. Let it boil gently, stirring all the time, till the isinglass is dissolved. Strain it into a basin, add one pint of cream, the sliced ginger, and two table-spoonfuls of ginger s\Tup. WTiisk it until it thickens, pour it into a damped mould, and put it in a cool place until set. Time, ten minutes to dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, 3s. 2d., with cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for two pints and a half of cream. Ginger Cream Ice. Cut a quarter of a pound of preserved ginger into thin slices, squeeze over these the juice of a lemon, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of cream or a pint of milk boiled and mixed with the yolks of six eggs half a pound of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of the ginger syrup. Stir the mixture over the fire until it thackens a little, then strain through a sieve. Pour into a mould, and when the cream is cold, freeze in the ordinary way for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. for this quantity, if made with cream ; Is. 4d., if made mth milk and eggs. Sufficient for a little less than a quart of ice. Ginger Cup Cake Mix two cupfuls of sifted sugar with two cupfuls of butter, melted, but not oiled. Add three well-beaten eggs, a cupful of treacle, foiu- heaped cupfuls of flour, a table-spoonful of ground ginger, a table-spoonful of dissolved saleratus, and a cupful of new milk. AVlien thoroughly and smoothly mixed, pour into a buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. If preferred, the mixture may be baked in patty-pans. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour in small pans, an hour and a half in a mould. Probable cost. Is. 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for a three-pint mould. Ginger Drops. Mix one ounce of ground ginger with one pound of sifted sugar, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of water ; add two ounces of freshly-candied orange, pounded in a mortar, with a little sugar. Boil j gently, stirring all the time, until the syrup GIN (257) GIW snaps when put into cold water. Dip the pan into cold water for a minute, then pour the mixture out in drops, on writing paper, or on an oiled slab. A lattle butter may be thrown in if the sjTup boils too quickly; or a little lemon-juice, or any other acid, if it is in danger of graining. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Ginger, Essence of. Take some whole ginger, and grind it to powder just bafore using it, as the flavour quickly evaporates. Put three ounces of powdered ginger and two ounces of freshly-cut lemon-rind into a quart of brandy, or spirits of wine. Let the mixture infuse a fortnight, shaking it every day. Then strain, and bottle for use. This preparation is warming and tavigorating, and, if mixed with a little boiling water and sugar, is an excellent cure for flatulency. Probable cost, about 5d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for one quart of essence. Gingerette. Pick and bruise one pound of either white or black currants, fully ripe, and put them, with the thinly-peeled rind of a lemon, into one pint of unsweetened gin. Cork closely, and leave for three days, then strain. Add half an ounce of freshly-ground ginger, and one pound of loaf sugar. Leave the gingerette a week longer, stir it every day, strain once more, and bottle for use. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for one quart. Ginger Pancakes. Mix the yolks of three eggs, and the white of one egg, verjsmoothly, with four table-spoonfuls of flour. Add a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of freshly-grated ginger. When quite smooth, stir in a pint of new milk. Just before cooking, put in two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Fry the pancakes in the usual way {see Pancakes). Send lemon -juice and sifted sugar to table with them. The batter for pancakes is better made an hour or two before it is wanted. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four persons. Ginger, Preserved. Preserved ginger is sent to us from the West Indies, and is made by boiling the ginger in syrup when green. It is a favourite dish for dessert, and should be bright and clear. If dark and stringy, it is not good. Agreeable imitations may be made either from rhubarb, lettuce stalks, or vegetable marrows (see the two following recipes). Ginger, Preserved, Imitation of. Use either garden rhubarb or the stalks of lettuces, going to seed. Strip off the stringy part, and cut the stalks into pieces about two inches long. Wash them well, drain, and put Ihem into a saucepan with five pints of water, one pound of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of freshly-ground ginger. Boil slowly for twenty minutes, and set the preparation aside for two days, boil then half an hour, and repeat the process a third time. Drain the stalks. Make a thick syrup by boiling together one cupful of water, one pound of loaf sugar, and one ounce and a half of ginger for everj- pound of stalks. Pour the sj'rup boiling hot upon the stalks, and, when cold put the preserv-e into jars, and cover closely. It wiU be ready for use in a fortnight. Probable cost, 7d. per pound. One pound of rhubarb will make about one pound of preserve. Ginger, Preserved, Imitation of (another way). Take medium-sized vegetablemarrows ; remove the peel and seeds, and cut the marrow into small lumps about two inches long. Weigh them, and pom- over them as much syrup as will cover them ; the sjTup being made by pouring one pint of boiling water over half a pound of moist sugar. Cover the bowl which contains the vegetable-marrows, to keep out the dust, and put it on one side for two days. At the end of that time, drain the pieces of maiTOw, and lay them in a saucepan, with one pound of loaf sugar and a cupful of water to every pound of marrow. Put into a muslin bag two ounces of freshly-gi-ound ginger and half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and allow this quantity, with the rind and juice of tkree lemons, to every four pounds of maiTow. Simmer gently, and, when clear, add a glass of gin. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound of marrow will make about one pound of preserve. Ginger Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet very finely. Add a pinch of salt, half a pound of flour, four ounces of moist sugar, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered ginger. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, and put them dry into a wellbuttered mould. Tie in a cloth, and boil for thi-ee hours. Turn out, and serve with wine sauce. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for fomor five persons. Ginger Pudding (another way). Chop very small three ounces of preserved ginger, and squeeze over it a tea-spoonful of lemonjuice. Put a breakfast-cupful of milk on the fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Let it boil, then draw it to the side, and mix with it, very smoothly, six ounces of flour. Put it on the fire again, and beat it ver\- smoothly, until it comes up with the spoon in a lump, leaving the sides of the saucepan quite clear. Take it off, mix \vith it the chojiped ginger, the yolks of four eggs whisked thoroughly, and the sj-rup of the ginger. Just before cooking, add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Put the pudding into a well-buttered mould, and steam it for one hour. Turn out, and serve with -ft-ine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. This pudding is very good baked. Ginger Puffs. Mix two eggs thoroughly, and beat them smoothly with four ounces of fine flour. Add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, half a tea-spoonful of freshly-ground ginger, a dessert-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, three table-spoonfuls of sherry, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. Half till some well-buttered cups with the mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. Turn out before serving, and serve with wine sauce. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for three or four puffs. GIN ( 258 ) GLA Ginger Sauce. Grate an inch, and a half of whole ginger, and mix it with four table-spoonfuls of hnely-sifted loaf sugar. Put those into a saucepan, with a breakfast-cupful of water and an inch of lemon-rind. Simmer gently for ten minutes, then add the juice of a lemon and a glass of white vnnc or brandy. Strain before serving. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. Ginger Snaps. jVEx half a pound of flour with two table-spoonfuls of moist sugai-. Add a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of ground ginger, and a pinch of cayenne. Make into a jjaste with four ounces of treacle and a table-spoonful of milk. Bake in a moderate oven, on a buttered tin, in small round cakes, till crisp from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Ginger Souflal Pudding. Mix smoothly over the fire one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour. Add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and a giU of miUc. Beat to a smooth batter ; pour the mixture into a basin, and stir into it one ounce of preserved ginger, cut into thin slices, with a tea-spoonful of the ginger sprup. Just before baking, add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Butter a mould rather thickly. Ornament the inside in any pretty fanciful way with lemon, citron, or dried fruit, cut into shapes ; pour in the batter, place a piece of buttered paper over the top, tie the mould in a cloth, and steam for an horn-. Turn out, and serve with ginger sauce [see Ginger Sauce). Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Ginger Syrup. Break three-quatters of a pound of ginger-root into small pieces. Boil it gently with four quarts of water, and the thin rind of a lemon, until the water is reduced one-half. Strain, and boil again with five pounds of loaf sugar. Remove the scum carefully till no more rises ; and when the syrup is cold, bottle it for use. Time, five hours. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for three quarts of syrup. Ginger Water Ice. Make a syrup by boiling together half a pound of refined sugar with half a pint of water and the thin rind of a large lemon, for ten minutes. Strain, and add two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice and a quarter of a pound of preserved ginger half of which having been pounded in a mortar, and half cut into thin slices. 3Iix thoroughly, pour into a mould, and freeze. Probable cost, about lOd. Sufficient for rather more than a pint of ice. Ginger Wine. Boil, in a perfectly clean copper, six gallons of water, eighteen pounds of loaf sugar, the thin rinds of seven lemons and two SeviUe oranges, half a pound of unbleached ginger, bruised, and a quarter of a pound of raisins. Boil for an hour, skim carefully, and pour off into a large vat until the next day. The preparation must not bo left in the copper. Strain, add the juice of the lemons and oranges, an ounce of isinglass, and two table-spoonfuls of thick fresh yeast. Put the ginger wine into a cask, stir it each day untU fermentation ceases, which will be in two or three days. Bung it up, and leave it for si.x weeks. Strain it into another cask, and in foui' weeks it will l e ready for bottling. A quart of brandy may be added, or not. Sufficient for a nine-gallon cask. Probable cost. Is. 2d. -per gallon. Ginger Wine (a quick way of making). The best time for making ginger wine is the spring or autumn. Boil together seven gallons of water, nineteen pounds of sugar, and nine ounces of best Jamaica ginger, bruised, for half an hour. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, and leave the liquid until the next day. Chop very small nine pounds of raisins two-thirds of which should be ilalaga, and one-third Muscatelle. Put these into a twelve-gallon cask, with a gallon and a half of good whiskey, or any other spirit, and four lemons, cut into slices. Let these ingredients stand until next day ; then put with them the cleared liquid, being careful to leave any sediment behind, and to strain it. As there is no fermentation, the cask may be bunged immediately. The wine will be ready for fining, by mixing with it one ounce of dissolved isinglass, in a fortnight. In another fortnight it may be "bottled. Probable cost, lOd. per gallon, exclusive of the spirit. Ginger Wine, Superior. Very superior ginger wine may be made by substituting fresh cider for water in the last recipe but one. Gipsy Cake (this is generally known as Tipsy Cake). Take a good stale spongecake, and in choosing the size, consider the glass dish in which it is to be served. Prick it through in several places with a knittingneedle or skewer, and soak it in sweet wine and brandy. As the liquid runs into the dish, pour it over again. Blanch some sweet almonds. Cut them lengthways into spikes, and stick these into the calce. Pour a good custard into the dish, and serve as soon as possible. Time, half an hour to soak the cake. Glace !N"apolitain. Take four ounces of Carolina rice, wash it thoroughly, and put it in a stewpan with a pint of milk, a pint of good cream, a pinch of salt, and two ounces of sugar. Let the rice swell considerably in this. Wlien it is tender enough to give way between the fingers, add a stick of good vanilla, and boil it one minute, then let it get cold. "Wlien cold, take aU the cream that remains liquid, and put it in a stewpan with the yolks of six eggs ; if there is not cream enough, add to it a little milk. Turn this on the fire Avith a wooden spoon, and when the eggs are well done, and the mixture very thick, let it cool. Add to Ihis a pint of double-whipped cream, and after mixing the cream with the custard, taste if the latter is sweet enough. Do not make it too sweet. Then take some out in a basin, and put it into the rice only, not into the freezing-pot; next mix together the rice and cream, take out the vanilla, and put all the rest into the freezing-pot ; work it well in the ice. GIR ( 259 )? GOD When quite frozen, put it in ice-moulds that shut on both sides ; put them in the pail with salt all round the ice. At dinner-time dip the moulds in cold water, and push the ice oti? the moulds, and cover the gateau with the cream that you have put by in the basin. Girdle Cake. Kub three ounces of fresh butter into one pound of Hour; add a pinch of salt, and as much butter-milk or cream as will make a stiff paste. Eoll the paste out thin, and make into small round cakes. Bake on a girdle over the fire, and turn the cake over, so that both sides may bo done. In Ireland, a little carbonate of soda is used, instead of butter. Time, five to six minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity. Sufficient for about one dozen cakes. Glaze. Glaze is made from clear stock, boiled down until it forms a sort of meat varnish, or strong jelly ; it is used to improve the appearance of many dishes. It is also made in large quantities for use in soups and sauces, and for this purpose is very convenient. It is especially suited for travellers, as it is nourishing, compact, and economical. The kunckle of veal, the legs and shins of beef, and the shanks of mutton are particularly gelatinous, and therefore the best for making glaze. Glaze may be kept foi' some time in small jars, such as are used for jelly, if kept dry. When a little is wanted in domestic cookery, a pint of clear beef stock may be boiled quickly down, to produce about a tablespoonful, or as much as will ornament a joint. The trimmings of meat or poultry', if not wanted for other purposes, may always be boiled down to a glaze. Glaze should be kept in an earthen jar, and when it is wanted for use, this jar should be placed in a saucepan of boihng water, and its contents melted in this way, care being taken that the saucepan is not so full that the water will go into the glaze. Glaze must never be put upon a joint unless the latter is quite dry, and two or three layers should be put on it, with a paste-brush, allowing one layer to dry before another is put on. Glaze should never be melted in a saucepan, as it would be almost sure to get black and burnt if this were done. Glaze for Cold Hams, Tongues, &c. Take some clear, strong stock, made from the bones of a shin of beef or a knuckle of veal, without either salt, pepper, or herbs, and quite free from fat or sediment. Put it into a copper stewpan, with a little whole pepper, and let it boil quickly until it is as thick as syrup. It must be closely watched, and, as soon as it begins to thicken, stirred without ceasing. Keep trj'ing a little on a plate, and when it sets like jam it is done enough ; it must be boiled until it will do this. If a light-coloured glaze is wanted, more veal than beef should be used. Time, boil as quickly as possible tiU the stock begins to thicken, then put it into another smaller saucepan, and simmer gently until it jellies. On the average, one pound of meat will produce an ounce of glaze. Glaze for Pastry. A rich yellow glaze is given to meat-pies by brushing them over with the beaten yolk of an egg. A lighter glaze is given by u.sing the white as well as the yolk, and a lighter still by the addition of a little milk, or, for sweet dishes, by brushing the pastry with sugar and water. Gloucester Jelly (Invalid Cookekt). Put an ounce each of ground rice, sago, eringoroot, hartshorn-shavings, and pearl barley into a saucepan with two quarts of water, and boil gently until the liqwid is reduced to one quart. Strain, and put aside till wanted. It may besweetened iuid flavoured, and eaten like jelly, or a few spoonfuls of it may be dissolved ia milk, tea, or broth. It is nourishing, and easily digested. Gelatine or isinglass may be used instead of hartshorn-shavings, if preferred. Time, about two houi-s to boil. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for one quart of jelly. Gloucester Puddings. Take three eggs, and their weight in butter and flour; mix thoroughly, and add twelve bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf sugar. Beat w-ell together for half an hour. HaK fill some cups with the mixture, bake, turn out, and serve with wine sauce. Time, to bake half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Glove Cakes. Beat the yolks of five eggs; mix them with sufficient floui- to make a smooth, firm paste ; add three table-spoonfuls of finelysifted sugar, three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and some cardamoms. RoU out the pastry, cut it into fanciful shapes, and fry in hot butter, to which has been added a spoonful or two of water. Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Gobble Sauce for Pish. Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan, and mix it very smoothly wdth an ounce of flour. Add six table-spoonfuls of cream or new milk, a pinch of cayenne, two or three gi-ates of nutmeg, a teaspoonful of the essence of anchovies, and a tea-spoonful of lime or lemon-juice. Stir in two tablc-sjjoonfuls of shelled shrimps, and serve quite hot, but the sauce must not boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a pint of Godiveau (a French forcemeat). Take a pound of the fiUet of veal, and a pound and a half of good beef suet. Remove the skin and giistle, chop the meat small, and pound it in a mortar. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, a table-spoonful of scalded and minced parsley, and a tea-spoonful of chopped onions or chives, if these are suitable for the dish with which the forcemeat is to be served. Add, whilst pounding a teaspoonful at a time two well-beaten eggs, and a little water. Take the forcemeat up, and put it in a cool place for an hom\ It should have been so thoroughly pounded that no pieces are distinguishable. When a large quantity of forcemeat is required, a little custard may be gradually mixed with the other ingredients. This forcemeat should be made in a cool place, and quickly. It is a good plan to fry a small GOD ( 260 ) GOO quantity of it in hot fat, to see if it suits the taste, and then add either another egg, a little water, or a little more seasoning, as required. Time, about half an hour to prejDare. Prohable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. Godiveau Raised Pie. A good dish may be made by tilling a raised pie with balls made of Godiveau forcemeat {see the preceding recipe), mixed -n-ith any savoury ragout, and pouring over the whole a rich sauce. Golden Pippins, To Preserve. Take one dozen golden pippins, pare them, and scoop out the core, without breaking the apples. Put two pounds of sugar into a preserving-pan, with one pint of water, and for a few minutes the rind of a Seville orange cut into strips ; then put in the pippins, and, when the syrup seems thick, add a pint of apple jelly, nicely flavoured with lemon. Boil quickly until the jelly is clear, then lift the pippins into jars, pour the syrup, &c., over them, and, when cold, cover securely. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Golden Pudding. Shred very finely six ounces of beef-suet ; mix with it half a pound of bread-crumbs, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a pound of orange marmalade, three eggs, and a pinch of salt. A little bakingpowder \ ll make the pudding lighter. Beat all the ingredients well together, and, if the pudding is not sufficiently moistened, add a little milk. Tie down in a well-floured cloth, and boil for three hours. Serve with wine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Golden Pudding (another way). Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter, mix with it a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of orange marmalade, two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. Beat all thoroughly together ; pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a good oven. Sers-e with a little sheiTy. This pudding may be eaten either hot or cold. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Good Friday Buns (commonly called Hot Cross Buns). Kub a quarter of a pound of butter into two pounds of flour. Add a pinch of salt ; then mix a wine-glassful of fresh, thick yeast with a pint and a half of warmed milk, and stir these into the flour till it forms a light batter. Put the batter in a warm place to rise. When sufficiently risen, work into it half a pound of sugar, half a pound of currants, half a nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace. Knead these well into the dough, make it up into buns, and place them on buttered baking-tins. Make a cross on them with the back of a knife, brush a little clarified butter over the top, and let them stand a quarter of an hour before the fire. Bake in a good oven. When bread is made at home, hot cross buns may be made bv mixing the currants, &c., with the bread dough after it has risen. Time, one hour to let the dough rise ; twenty minutes to bake. Sufficient for two dozen buns. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Goose (a la Daube). If a goose is too old to be tender when roasted, it may be advantageously cooked as follows : Truss the goose as for boiling. Either lard it, or place two or three shces of bacon at the bottom of the pan in which it is to be stewed. Put it into a stewpan with an onion, a carrot, a bunch of savourj' herbs, one root of parsley, two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, two glasses of sherry, half a glass of brandy, and as much stock or water as will just cover the goose. Put on the lid very tightly, and stew gently for foui- hours. Dish the goose. Strain the sauce, and pour it on the dish. If the goose is to be served cold, reduce the sauce to a jelly, and pour as much over the goose as the dish will neatly hold. The giblets may be stewed with the goose, and used separately. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Goose (a I'Arlesienne). Truss a goose as for boiling. Stuff it with a forcemeat made as follows : Boil four large onions for a few minutes. Drain, chop them small, and mix with them four ounces of bread-crumbs which have been soaked in milk, three ounces of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a little pepper and salt, and four ounces of chestnuts prepared as for forcemeat {see Chestnut Forcemeat). Put the goose in a braizing-pan, -with a large sliced carrot, half a head of celery, or a quarter of a diachm of pounded celery-seed tied in muslin, a bunch of savourj' herbs, an onion stuck with six cloves, a sprig of parsley, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and as much stock or water as will barely cover the goose. Let it braize slowly for two hours, then take it out, strain the liquor, skim off the fat, and boil it down until it is considerably reduced. Mix with it an equal quantity of tomato sauce, and serve the goose I with the sauce poured round it. Probable cost ' of goose, 6s., when in full season. Sufficient ! for eight or ten persons. Goose, Bonne Bouche for.- Mix verj smoothly half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard, with a glass of port, and pour it into the goose just before serving, through a slit made in the apron. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one Goose, Braized (a la Jardiniere). Cook a goose according to the directions given for Goose a la Daube. WTien it is sufficiently stewed, put in the liquid any quantity of mixed vegetables, ready cooked, such as French beans, green peas, pieces of cauliflower, and carrots and turnips, cut into shapes. Thicken the sauce, let all boil up together, and serve with the goose. Time, four hours to stew. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or ten l ersons {see also Goose, to Braise). Goose, Cold Sauc3 for. Put two ounces of green sage-leaves into a jar with one ounce of thin lemon-rind, a minced shallot, a GOO (261 ) GOO tea-spoonful of salt, a drachm of cayenne pepper, and a pint of claret. Soak for a fortnight, then pour oif the clear liquid, and serve in a tureen, or boil half a cupful in half a pint of good gravy. If not wanted for immediate use, this sauce may be kejit in a bottle closely corked. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. SuflScient for one pint of sauce. Goose, Cold, To Hash. Cut the remains of acold goose into small, convenient-sized pieces. Put some sliced onions into a stewpan with a piece of butter, and let them fry imtil they are tender, but not biirnt. Add as much stock or water as will be sauce for the hash, with a little pepper, salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, the bones and skin of the goose, and a glass of port or claret, if liked. Boil gently until the gra 'y is good, then strain it, thicken it, if necessaiy, and put in the pieces of goose to get hot, but the gravy must not boil after the goose is added. If any goose-stufiing has been left, heat it in the oven. Place the goose on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish the dish with toasted bread and little heaps of stuffing. Time, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat, &c. Goose, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Goose). Goose, Gravy for. Slice a large onion, and fry it in a little butter, or good dripping, with half a pound of gravy-beef, until slightly browned. Pour over it a pint and a half of water, with any bones or trimmings you may have, and simmer gently for two hours. Skim oS the fat, season with a little salt and pepper, and mix in the gravy that has dropped from the goose. Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour. Strain the gravy, put a little into the dish with the goose, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Apple sauce also usually accompanies roast goose. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for one pint of gravj% Goose, Gravy for (another way). Put the giblets of the goose into a saucepan, with half a pound of gravy-beef, three or four green sage-leaves, two small onions, a piece of toasted crust, some whole pepper, a little salt, and three pints of water. Bring the liquid to a boil, skim, and simmer gently for two hours and a half. Strain, and thicken with a little flour, and boil once more. Before serving, a glass of port or claret may be added, if liked. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the giblets and wine. Sufficient for two pints and a half of gravy. Goose, Gravy for (another way). Cut a small onion into shces, and strew over these three or four leaves of sage, finely powdered. Fry them for four or five minutes in a little butter, then add a small cupful of good stock, and mix in, very smoothly, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepjjer, two or three grains of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, and a glass of port or claret. Simmer for a few minutes, strain, asd send to table a little of the gravj on the dish with the goose, and the rest in a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 4d. Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. Goose, Green, Dressing a. Truss a green goose in the same way as a full-grown one. It must not be stuffed, but the inside must be seasoned with pepper and salt, and two or three ounces of fresh butter put . in to moisten it. Set the bird down to a clear, brisk fire, and when it is sufficiently cooked, serve with water-cresses round it, and send brown gravy and either soitcI, gooseberry, or tomato sauce, to table with it. Time, about three-quarters of an horn- to roast. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 5s. Goose, Grilled. Take the remains of cold goose. The legs, back, rump, and gizzard are especially suitable. The breast, &c., may be made into a hash. Dip the joints in clarified butter, and score the flesh in two or three places, popper them rather highly, strew a little salt over them, dip them in finely-grated, bread-crumbs, and, again, in the butter, and broil them over a strong clear fire until brightly browned. Serve either drj' or with grill sauce (se?GriU Sauce). Time, three or four minutes to broil. Goose Hams. Geese are in some pai-ta salted, cured, and smoked. Cut the goose through the back, the breast, and legs. Rub a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre well into it, and, afterwards, haK a pound of salt, and two ounces of good brown sugar. Let the bird remain in pickle for three days, turning it every day, and rubbing it well with the pickle. Dip the pieces, wet with the brine, into sawdust, covering each piece well. Hang them in smoke for a vreek, then let them hang in a dry place. Before using them, rub off the sawdust. They are eaten without further cooking, with bread and butter. The lean should be red, and the fat white. Goose, How to Choose. Choose a young goose. This is more easily said than done, as geese are frequently offered for sale when they are much too old to be eaten. The breast should be plump, the skin white, and the feet pliable and yellow. If the last are red or stiff, the bird is old or stale. Although Michaelmas is the time for geese, they are in perfection about June ; after Chiistmas the flesh is tough. A goose ought not to be eaten after it is a year old. It is said that Queen Elizabeth was the originator of the Michaelmas goose. She had one on the table before her, when the news arrived of the defeat of the Spanish Ai-mada, and she commanded the same dish to be served every succeeding Michaelmas. Green or young geese come into season in March. Goose in Jelly, or Euck in Jelly. Put the goose in a deep stewpan, and barely cover it with clean stock, or water. Put "with it a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, two large onions, two bay-leaves, two or three sprigs of lemon th Tne and sweet basil, with a small piece of tarragon. Put the cover on the saucepan, and simmer gently, until the meat parts easily from the bones. Take out the goose, drain it from the gravj', remove the bones, which may be GOO ( 262 ) GOO returned to the saucepan, and boiled a little longer, and cut tlic meat into convenient-sized pieces. If the gravy requires it, add a little more pepper and salt. Skim oS the fat, strain it through a jelly -bag, and mix with an ounce of good gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water for haK an hour or more. Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of the mould. Let it set, then put in any pretty ornamental devices, such as hard-boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, pickles, &c.; pour a little more jelly over these, and, when it is stiff, put in the pieces of meat, leaving room for the jelly to flow between them. Let the dish remain until the next day, then turn out, and garnish ;ipcording to taste. Time to simmer the goose, two hours, or a little more. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. A couple of ducks may be prepared in this way instead of a goose. Goose Liver, Klosse (a German recipe). Grate very finely the crumb of a French roll, and soak it in as much milk as will just cover it. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, with four well-beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Stir these well over the fire till the mixture thickens, then add the soaked crumb, first squeezing the milk thoroughly from it. Add a heaped table-spoonful of dry grated bread-crumbs, the yolks of two more eggs, and the goose liver minced very fine. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, make them up into balls the size and shape of an egg. Lift these ctirefuUy into boiling wak!r or broth, and let them boil fully half an hour. It is a good plan to try one ball first ; if it will not hold together in boiling, add a few more breadcrumbs. The balls may be fried in hot fat, if preferred. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufli-cient for six or eight klosse. Goose Liver Pasty (a German recipe). Take the Kvors of two fat go&so, such as are ordinarily sold. "Let the birds be drawn at home, to insure having the livers whole, and be careful not to break the gall-bag, which should be entirely cut away. Put the livers in milk, to whiten them. Mince very finely a pound and a quarter of veal, and a quarter of a pound of fat bacon ; mix with them two ounces of sardines, cleared of skin and bone, the juice of a small lemon, and half its rind, and an ounce of chopped capers all finely minced. Melt a piece of butter the size of a large egg in a stowpan, put in with it the above articles, cover closely, and steam gently until the meat is suiiiciently cooked but it must not brown. AVhen it is done enough, stir into it a cupful of thick sour cream, a table-spoonful of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of white wine, a dessertspoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, a third of a nutmeg, grated, and two well-beaten oggs. Make some raised pie-crust by boiling together half a pint of water, two ounces of lard, and two ounces of butter, and stirring into these ingredients when boiling a pound and a half of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt. When the pastry is cold, line a pie-mould with it. Spread half the mince at the bottom. Cut the livers in slices and lay them on it. Sprinkle over them a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and three cloves, finely pounded. Spread the rest of the mince on the top, and cover with the pie-crust. Make a hole in the middle, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. The pie must not brown. Let it remain until the next day, when it may be put in hot water a minute or two, to make it tui-n out more easily. Brush it all over with beaten egg. A few truffles are a great improvement to this pasty, when they are obtainable. They should be soaked, washed, and p)eeled, then cut into thin slices, and stuck through the livers. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, 4s. for this quantity. Goose, Marinaded. Pluck, singe, and bone a goose. If the latter operation is too difficult, it may be dispensed with. Stuff it with a highly-seasoned sage-and-onion stuffing, truss it securely, and fry it in a little hot fat until slightly browned all round. Take it up, put it in a saucepan, just cover it with good gravy, and let it simmer gently for two hours and a half. Drain it, put it in the o\;en to keep warm ; skim the gravy, thicken it with a little flour and butter, add some browning, a tablesjioonf ul of lemon pickle, an anchovy, pounded, and a seasoning of pepper, salt, and gxated nutmeg. A glass of port may be added, if liked. Put the goose on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and serve. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Goose, Mock. Mock Goose is a name given in some parts to a leg of pork roasted without the slcin, and stuffed just under the knuckle with sage-and-onion stuffing. It is a good plan to biil it partially before skinning and putting it down to roast. Wlien it is almost done enough, sprinkle over it a powder made by mixing together a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, with a tea-si oonful of powdered sage, half a salt-spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper. Send some good gravy to table in a tui-een with it. Time, allow fuUy twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Goose Pie. This is made either with one goose, or, what is better still, two green geese. Braize or stew them {sec Goose a 1' Arlesienne) , and cut each goose into eight pieces; season, and put them into a good raised crust. Or they may bo put into a pie-dish with a short crust, in the usual way. A good-sized piece of butter should be put into the dish. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, one goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Goose Pie (another way). -The real English Christmas goose-pie proper is made by boning a goose, turkey, fowl, and pigeon, and putting the turkey inside the goose, the fowl inside the tiu'key, and the pigeon inside the fowl. A strong raised crust is then fixed properly in form, and all are put inside it, any vacancies being filled up with pieces of ham, tongue, or forcemeat. Clarified butter is poured over the whole, the lid put on, and the crust brushed over with beaten egg, and ornamented. It should be well bound with GOO ( 263 ) GOO three or foiu' folds of buttered i apcr before being- put into the oven. This pic, though sometimes talked of, is not often nuide. Time to bake, four hours. Goose Pudding, or Savoury Pudding (a Yorkshire recipe). Pour as much boiling milk over a pound of stale bread as will just cover it. Let it soak until soft, then beat it with a fork, and take out any lumps that -\vill not soften. iVdd six ounces of beef suet, iinely shred, four large onions, boiled and chopped, a dessert-spoonful of powdered sage, and the same of marjoram and thyme, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a dessert- spoonful of oatmeal, and three eggs well beaten. Spread the mixtiu-c in a buttered or greased drippingtin, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Put it m the oven for half an hour, to cook the under-part, then place it under the goose, before the fire, and let the gravy drip on it. It must be well browned in every part. Cut it into squares, and serve it at the same time as the goose. This pudding may also be served with roast pork. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Goose, Roast. A roast goose is generaEy filled with sage-and-onion stuffing {see Goose Stuffing, Sage-and-onion). The way in which this is made must depend upon the taste of those who have to eat it. If a strong flavour of onion is liked, the onions should be chopped raw. If this is not the case, they should be boiled in one, two, or thi-ee waters, and mixed with a smaller or larger proportion of breadcrumbs. It should be remembered, when breadcrumbs are used, room should be allowed for swelling. Truss the goose firmlj', tie the openings securely, put it down to a clear, brisk fire, and baste it plentifully until done enough. A goose is both unwholesome and unpalatable if insufficiently cooked. Take it up, remove the skewers and fastenings, pour a little gravy into it {see Goose, Bonne Bouche for), and send some good gravy {see Goose Gravy), and either apple or tomato sauce to table with it. Garnish with lemon. Time, from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Goose, Roast, To Carve. Begin by turning the neck end of the goose towards you, and cutting the whole breast in long slices, from GOOSB, EOAST, TO CAEVE. one wing to another. {s?e the lines a b) . To take off the leg, insfert the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body, put the Imifo in at A, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young, it will easily come away ; if old, we wiU not answer for it. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body ; put the knife in at B, and divide the joint. When the leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other ; but, except when the company is verjlarge, it is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower side bones, as well as the two side bones by the wing, may be cut off ; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast, and the thighs, after being separated from the di-umstick. Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside, by making a circular slice iu the apron at c. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of wine, a little orange-gravy or vinegar may be poured into the body of the goose, at the opening made in the apron bj' the carver for this purpose. Goose Soup. When a goose is boiled, a good soup may be made of the liquid, but it is well to. use stock, instead of water, in which to boil it. Put the giblets into the saucepan, together with half a pound of lean ham, an onion, a carrot, and a head of celery, or half a drachm of pounded celery-seed. Skim it well and simmer gently, until the goose is sufficiently cooked. Take uj) the goose and the giblets, the first of which may be served with onion sauce, and the last made into a pie. Strain the soup, season it with half a drachm of cayenne, and add half a tumblerful of sherry or Madeira. No salt will be required if the ham has been used. Time to boil, two hours. Sufficient for two quarts of soup. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the meat and wine. Goose StuflB.ng, Apple. Pare, core, and cut into small pieces some good baking apples. Fill the goose as full as it wiU hold with these, fasten the openings securely, and roast. When this stuffing is used, apple sauce may be dispensed with. In Germany, a few almonds, blanched and sliced, or a few currants, are sometimes mixed with the apples. Goose Stuffing, Chestnut. Take the outer skin from about two dozen fine, sound chestnuts, and throw them into boiling water. Let them simmer a minute or two over the fire, when they may be blanched like almonds. Put them into a saucepan with as much stock as will cover them, let them stew gently xmtil soft, then drain them ; mix with them two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of minced parsley, a parboiled onion, chopped small, and a little pepper and salt. Put this stuffing into the goose. Fasten the ends securely, and roast before a clear fire. Time, twenty minutes to simmer the chestnuts. Sufficient for r Goose Stuffing, Potato. Take two pounds of good sound potatoes, peel, and wash them, and cut them into small pieces, with an onion, finely minced. Put them into a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Cover the pan closely, and shake it about, that the potatoes may not stick to the bottom, and when they are partly cooked, but not tender, mix with them the Uver of the goose, chopped small. GOO ( 264 ) GOO Strew over them a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. Put the stuffing inside the goose, tie the openings securely, and roast. If preferred, the potatoes may be mashed, instead of being cooked as above. Time, five or six minutes to steam the potatoes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient to stuff a goose. Goose Stuffing, Sage-and-onion. Boil four large onions till tender ; drain them from the water, and mince them finely with four fresh sage-leaves, or six dry ones, four table- spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, half a tea-spoonful of pepper ; a large apple, pared and cored, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, may be added, if approved. Time to boil the onions, from twenty minutes to half an hour. Sufficient for a good-sized goose. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity {see also additional particulars connected \vith this stuffing, under Goose, Eoast). Goose Stuffing (to deprive of offensive odour). The unpleasantness arising from eating sage-and-onion stuffing used for roast goose may be in a great measure prevented by putting in the centre of the stuffing, before the bird is cooked, a lemon with the yellow rind taken off, and as much of the thick white skin left on as possible. Before the goose is sent to table, the flap should be opened and the lemon taken out, and at once thrown away. The lemon will have absorbed a great part of the impurities, which otherwise would have remained in the stuffing. Care should be taken not to cut the lemon so that the juice could escape. Goose, To Boil. Pick and singe a goose carefully. Let it soak in lukewarm milk and water for eight or ten hours. Stuff, and truss it secureljs put it into a saucepan, with as much cold water as will cover it, bring it to a boil, and let it simmer gently until done enough. Send good onion sauce to table with it. Time, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half after it has boiled. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Goose, To Braise. Truss the bird as if for boiling. A braising-pan proper is constructed to hold live coal on the Ud, but where this is not to be had, the goose must be put into an ordinary stewpan, -svith a closely-fitting lid. Fat bacon and savoury herbs should be laid both above and under it, and a little stock to moisten it. Thick folds of paper should then be put on it, and the lid wrapped about with a cloth to prevent any of the steam escaping. The bird should be cooked vej-y slowly. Time, five hours. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Goose, To Truss, for Roasting. Pluck the goose. Carefully remove the quillsockets, and singe off the hairs. Cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long enough to turn over. After drawing, wash and Av-ipe the bird both inside and out, and cut off the feet and pinions at the first joint. Pull out the throat, and tie the end securely. Beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. Draw the j legs up closely, and put a skewer through them { and through the body, and another through the ! pinions and through the body. Cut off the end I of the vent, and make a hole in the skin large [ enough for the rump to go through. This will I prevent the seasoning escaping. Gooseberries. The gooseberry is so universal a favourite, and is so weU-known, that it is unnecessary to give any des?i-iption of it. It is exceedingly wholesome and refreshing, and many dishes may be made from it. The principal varieties are the white and red, and the red is the more acid of the two. Smoothskinned gooseberries are much inferior in flavour to the rough hairy ones. Gooseberries, Dried, for Winter Dessert. Cut the tops, but not the stalks, from two pounds of large ripe gooseberries, either red or green. Put them into a syrup i made by boiling together a pound of sugar and a ' pint of water until rather thick. Simmer the ! gooseben-ies gently for ten or fifteen minutes, i then pour them out with the syrup, and leave ! them until the next day. Boil them then again ! for ten minutes, drain the syrup from them, : and spread them on a sieve before the fire to \ dry. They may be candied by dipping them into ' powdered sugar as they are taken out of the ; s\Tup. They should be stored between sheets of '? paper in tin boxes. Probable cost, is. for this I quantity. I Gooseberries, Green, Compote of. ' Top and tail a quart of goosebei-ries. Put ' them into boiling water for two minutes, and \ next into cold water, mLxed with a table? spoonful of vinegar, for two minutes, to restore the colour, then drain them. Make a I syrup by boiling throe-quarters of a pound of I loaf sugar in lumps, -with one pint of water for : ten minutes. Put in the gooseberries. Boil i them gently for ten minutes, or until the fruit ' is tender but unbroken. Turn them out with the syrup, and serve cold. Sufficient for half , a dozen persons. Probable cost, 7d. I Gooseberries, Green, To Bottle. I Gather some gooseberries on a dry morning of I the day on which they are to be used. War1 rington's are the best for this purpose. They should be fully formed, but quite hard. Take off the tops and stalks without bruising the skins, and reject amy that are not quite soimd and whole. Put them into dry, wide-necked, bottles, and place these up to the necks in a saucepan of cold water. It is well to twist a little hay or straw round each bottle, to prevent them touching each other and being broken. Bring the contents of the saucepan slowlj' to a boil, and then lift it from the fire, and let the bottles remain in it until the gooseberries are sufficiently scalded. In order to ascertain when this is the case, look at one of the bottles, and when the fruit has risen from the bottom it is done enough. Pour a little boiling water over the fruit, to prevent it getting mouldy. Cork and seal securely, and cover the corks with bladder. Place them on their sides in a cool, diy place, and before using pour off the greater part of the water, and add sugar according to GOO (265) GOO taste. Time, five or ten minutes after the water has boiled. Probable cost of gooseben-ics, 3d. per quart. Gooseberries, Green, To Preserve, as Sops. Pick some of the largest green gooseberries that can be got, and whilst picking them cut them into quarters a little way down, iscrape out the seeds, and put the quartered gooseberries into a preserving-pan, with an equal weight of loaf sugar, and a cupful of water, and boil them until they look clear. Put them into jars, cover them securely, and keep in a cool, dry place. The pulp may bo boiled with sugar for goosebeiTy fool or jam. Time to boil, about half an hour. Gooseberries, Green, To Preserve "Whole. Pick the tops and stalks from some large green gooseberries, put them on the fire, in a saucepan of cold water, and let them simmer gently until they are tender, but unbroken. Throw them into cold water, and for every three-quarters of a pound of fruit make a syrup with a pound of loaf sugar and a pint of water. Let the syrup grow cold, put it again into a saucepan, and lift the gooseberries gently into it. Let them boil until the sugar has got into them, then take them out carefully, and the next day drain the syrup from them, and boil it until smooth. In order to ascertain when this degree is reached, dip the finger and thumb into cold water, and take a little syrup between them. If, when they are opened, a strong thread forms, let the gooseberries boil pnce more imtil the syinip is thick. Let them c ool, put them into jars, pour the syrup over them, cover securely,, and ieep in a cool dry place. Gooseberry and Kice Pudding. Wash half a pound .of best Carolina rice. Put it into a cloth, which Jias been dipped in hot water and floured, and lay on it a pint and a half of green gooseberries, picked and washed. Tie the cloth securely, lea%'ing plenty of room for the rice to swell, and boil for an hour and a half. Serve it with sweet sauce. Probable cost for this quantity, 6d. Sufiicicnt for six or seven persons. Gooseberry Cakes. Put some green goosebemes in a jar. and place it in a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer until the fruit I is soft, then press it through a sieve, and mix one pound of powdered sugar, and the whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth, with every pound j of pulp. Beat thoroughly. Put the mixture, in small round cakes, upon sheets of paper. Place these on dishes before the fire, and when .sufficiently dry, store them in tin boxes, and keep them in a dry place. Time, about one hour to simmer the gooseberries. Gooseberry Champagne. Choose gooseberries which, when fully ripe, have little flavour. The green Bath are the best. Take forty pounds of sound, large, hard berries, remove the tops and stalks, and put them into a fifteen-gallon tub. Bruise them sufficiently to burst the berries without breaking the seeds, and pour over them four gallons of lukewarm water. Stir, and squeeze them in the hands until both the juice and pulp are thoroughly 18 I separated from the seeds and skins, then leave them until the next day, when the Hquid should be drawn ofl:', and the fruit pressed through a coarse sieve, with another gallon of water, to extract as much of the goodness of the fruit as I possible. Dissolve thirty pounds of loaf sugar I in the juice, and, with water, make the liquid up to eleven gallons. Leave it in the tub, add three ounces of crude tartar, cover it with a blanket, and let the temperature of the place where it is set be from 50¦ to 60" Fahrenheit. Let it remain for a day or two, then draw it ofl: into a ten-gallon cask, and keep it well filled near the bunghole, by pouring in the extra gallon as the liquid subsides. When the hissing noise ceases, drive in the bung, and bore a hole by its side, into which a vent-peg must be driven, and this must be loosened every two or three days, to prevent the cask bm-sting. When all danger of tliis apjiears to be over, fasten in the peg tightlv. Put the cask in a cool cellar, and let it remain until the end of December. Pack it from its lees into a fresh cask, and in a month it \-ill, in all probability, be clear enough for bottling. If necessarj-, it may be fined, by adding an ounco of isinglass, dissolved in a bottle of the wine. It should be bottled when the gooseberrybushes begin to blossom, and its briskness depends very much upon its being bottled at the right time. Taste the wine before racking it into a fresh cask, and if it be too sweet, renew the fermentation, either by stirring up the lees or roUing the cask. Wine should be bottled in clear, settled weather, and the sooner it is bottled after fining, the brighter it will be. Time, twenty-four hours to stand before straining ; ten or twelve days to ferment. Sufficient for ten gallons. Probable cost. Is. 8d. per gallon. Gooseberry Charlotte. Pick the tops and stalks from a pound and a half of gooseberries; wash and diain them, and boil tlum with a pound and a half of loaf sugar, until reduced to a pulp. Press them through a coarse sieve. Take half a dozen sponge-biscuits, cut them into thin slices, and line a plain round mould with them. Pour in the fruit, cover_ it with slices of spongecake, place a cover and a weight on the top, and let it remain until well set. Turn it out before serving, and pom- some good custard or nicely-flavoured cream round it. Thin slices of bread may be used instead of sponge-biscuit. Time, ten or twelve hours to set properly. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Gooseberry Cheese. Pick the tops and stalks from some rough red gooseberries, fuUy ripe. Bake them in a moderate oven till soft, then pulp them through a fine sieve. Let them boil very gently, and add, a little at a time, a quarter of a jwund of loaf-sugar to everj' pound of fruit-pulp. Boil, skim, and stir it for half an hour ; then pour it on small plates, and dry it before the fire, or in a cool oven. When diy, keep the cheese between folds of -white paper. Time, half an hour to boil. Probable cost of gooseberries, 3d. per pound. Gooseberry Cream. Pick the stalks and tojjs from about two pounds of gi-een GOO { 266 ) GOO goosebenies. Wash, drain, and boil them until soft and broken, in a pint and a half of water. Press them tlirougli a sieve, and to every pint of juice add a pound of loaf sugar and the rind and juice of half a lemon. Lot these boil all together for fifteen or twenty minutes, and, when cold, mix with them half a pint of milk, in which an ounce of isinglass or gelatine has been dissolved. Pom- into a mould, and put it in a cool place until firm. This CEcam should bo made the day before it is wanted. Sufficient for two quarts of cream. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., with best isinglass. Gooseberry Custard. Boil a quart of gooseberries in half a pint of water. Add a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Boil the gooseberries quickly, and, when soft, pul i them through a sieve. Add three-quarter-s of a pound of sugar and the yolks of four eggs. Stir over the fire until thick, but the berries must not boil. Serve in a glass dish, or in custard-glasses. Time, boil till soft about fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for seven or eight glasses. Gooseberry Dumpling. Lino a plain round basin or mould with a good suet crust {see Crust, Suet). Pick the tops and stalks from as many goostiberries as will fill it, strew some moist sugar over the top, and cover with the paste. Pinch in the sides securely, to prevent the juice escaping, and tie in a floured cloth. Plunge the pudding into boiling water, and boil for two or three hours, acconiing to the size of the ijudding. Probable cost, lOd. for a pudding large enough to fill a ( uart mould. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Gooseberry Fool. Take the tops and stalks from a pound of green gooseberries, and boil them witli three-quartei-s of a pound of sugar and a cupful of water. When quite soft, press them through a coarse sieve, and mix with them, very gradually, a pint of milk ; or cream, if a richer dish is required. Servo when cold. This old-fashioned dish is wholesome and inexpensive, and, when well made, very agreeable. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the fruit. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantitj if made with milk. Sufficient for six or seven children. Gooseberry Jam. Take the tops and stalks from some light-coloured goosebemes, i-ather under-ripe, and allow one pound of loaf sugar, and the finely-grated lind and juicx) of half a lemon, to every pound of fruit. Put the ben-ies into a saucepan, strew the sugar, &c., over them, add a little water, to pi-event burning, bring them to a boil, and skim carefully. When the jam has boiled about a quarter of an hour, put a little on a cold plate. If it jellies, even slightly, it may be taken from the fire, and poured into jai's. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. per pound. Gooseberry Jam, Green,~AUow a pound of sugar and half a pint of water to every pound of fruit. Boil the sugar and water together for fifteen minutes. Skim carefully, put in the gooseberries, and let them simmer gently, stirring all the time, until the jam will set when a little is put on a plate. This will be in about forty-five minutes after it has come to the boil. Pour into jars.' Cover with brandied or oilo l paper, and place tissue paper, dipped in strong gum-water, or in white of eg' , over the jai-s. On an average, a pound of jam may bo obiaincd from a pound of fruit. Probable cost, fid. per pound. Gooseberry Jam., Green (another way) . Cut the stalks and tops from three jJounds of grc en goosebemes. Bruise them slightly, put them into a presei-ving-pan, and let them boil for seven or eight minutes, stirring all the time, to prevent them sticking to the pan. ]\Iix with them two pounds and a half of powdered loaf sugar, bring them quickly to the boil, then simmer them gently for three-quarters of an horn'. A pound of jam may be obtained fiom about a pound ?f fruit. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. per pound. Gooseberry Jam, Green (another way). Wash and drain the gooseberries, and put them into a preserving-pan, with a gill of water to every pound of gooseberries. Stir tVem until they are soft, then press them through a coarse sieve, with the back of a wooden spoon, or a jelly-pot. Weigh the pulp, and allow threequarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Boil the sugar with as much water as vill just moisten it, and boil it until it is thick. Add the goosebeiry pulp, and simmer gently, stirring it now and again. When it sets, or stiffens when a little is put on a plate, put it at once into jars. Time, about forty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 7d. or ?d. per pound. Gooseberry Jam, Red. Take the tops and stalks from the gooseberries, and allow three pounds of sugar to every four pounds of fruit. It is a great improvement to add a l ound of red currants to every three pounds of gooseberries. Boil tlie fruit. Keej) it well stirred, to prevent it burning, and as soon as the beiries begin to break, add the sugar. Let them boil for half an hour, or until the jam win sot when a little is put on a plate. If it will not do this at the end of half an hour, it must boil longer. Pcfur it into jars, and cover closely, in the usual way. Sufficient, a pound of fruit, &c., for a pound of jam. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. per pound. Gooseberry Jam, Red (another way). Take equal weights of fruit and sugar. Pick the tops and stalks froni the fruit, and make a slit with a needle in each goosebeiry. Allow a small tea-cupful of water to each pound of sugar, and boil the water and sugar together for ten minutes. Put in the fruit, and boil gently, until the skins look clear. Drain off the berries, and put them into jars, boil the syrup until it will set, pour it over the fruit, and, when cool, tie up in the usual way. Time, about forty minutes to boil the syru]). Probable cost," 7d. or 8d. per pound jar. Gooseberry Jam, Red (another way). Allow a pint of red currant juice, prepared as for red currant jelly, and three pounds of loaf sugar to every four pounds of gooseberries. Put the sugar and the juice into a preservingpan, and boil for five minutes after Uie sugar is GOO (267) GOO dissolved. Add the goose'bcrries, and boil all gently together for forty minutes. Pour out the contents of the pan, and on the following day put the berries into jars, boil the syrup for a quarter of an hour, and poui- it over the fruit. Cover closely. Probable cost, 9d. per pound jar. Sufficient, a pint and a haK of fruit far a l)0und of jam. Gooseberry Jam, White or Yellow. Choose sound ripe gooseberries, which have been gathered on a dry day. Pick oif the tops and stalks, and take equal weights of fruit and sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan, with a cupful of water to every pound. Boil for ten minutes, then add the fruit, and when llie berries have once boiled, simmer gently until they are sufficiently cooked. This may 1)0 ascertained in the usual way, by putting a little on a plate, and if it jellies it is done enough. Pour into jars, cover with brandied or oiled paper, and tissue-paper dipped either in gum- water or the unbeaten white of an egg. Time, three-quarters of an hour to boil the fruit. Sufficient, a pint and a half of fruit for a pound of jam. Gooseberry Jelly. Choose ripe, and perfectly sound gooseberries, gathered on a diy day. Pick them, put them into a preservingpan, and simmer them gently until they yield their juice readily. Strain them through a sieve, and afterwards through a jelly-bag, but on no account squeeze the fruit. If left moist the gooseberries may, with the addition of some sugar and a few red cui-rants, be made into jam, for puddings, &c. ; or it may be made into goosebeny paste {tfcc Gooseberry Paste). Weigh the juice, boil it quickly for a quarter of an hour, then add three pounds of pounded loaf sugar to every four pounds of juice. When the sugar is dissolved, boil together for five minutes, then pour into jars, and cover securely. It is a great improvement to add a pound of red or white cm-rant j uice to every three pounds of goosebeny juice. Gooseberry Jelly, Green. Cut off the tops and stalks from some ripe gooseberries. Put them into a preserving-ijan, with threequarters of a pint of water to every pound of fruit, and simmer gently until they are well broken. Strain through a jelly-bag, without squeezing the fruit. Weigh the juice, and boil it rapidly for a quarter of an hour. Mi.x with it an equal weight of loaf sugar, and boil together for twenty minutes. Skim carefully, and pour into jars. Probable cost, 9d. per half-pound jar. Sufficient, a pound of gooseberries will give on an average nearly three-quaiiers of a pint of jelly. Gooseberry, Mock. Khubarb may be used instead of gooseberries in making sauce for fish. It should be boiled until quite tender, sweetened, pressed through a sieve, and then used in the same way as gooseben-ies. Gooseberry Paste. Vhen the juice has been gently draN -n from gooseberries for jelly, the fruit may be made into paste for dessert, &c. Weigh the pulp, put it into a preserving-pan, and boil it until it comes up in a mass with the spoon, leaving the saucepan di-y. Lift it from the fire, and mix with it some pounded loaf sugar, allowing half a pound of sugar to every 130und of pulp, weighed before boiling. When well mixed, leturu it to the siiucepan, and boil twenty minutes longer. It must be stirred unceasingly or it wiU bum. Put it into jelly jars, and cover securely in the usual v ay. Time, about one hour to boil the pulp, twenty mmutes to boil with the sugar. Gooseberry Pudding, Baked. Pick the heads and stalks off tlie gooseberries, and put the berries into a jar. Place this jar in a saucepan of water, and let it boil until thefruit is soft enough to pulp. Press it thi'ough a sieve, and to every pint of pulp add an ounce and a half of fresh butter, four ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three well-beaten eggs. The latter should not be added until the pudding is cool. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Strew sifted sugar over the pudding before serving. It may be eatenr either hot or cold. If a richer pudding is required. Savoy biscuits may be substituted for the bread-crumbs, and the e lge of the dish may be lined with puff paste. Time, about half an, hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd, if made withbread. Sufficient for five persons. Gooseberry Sauce, for Mackerel. Cut the tops and stalks from half a pint of green gooseberries. Boil them until tender, press them through a sieve, and mix them with half a pint of melted buttei-. Various seasonings are used for this sauce such as grated ginger., or grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, a littlepounded sugar, or cayenne pepper. A wineglassful of sorrel or spinach -juice is a decided improvement. The gooseberries are often sent to table mashed and flavoured, without being mixed with the melted butter. Tinae, about forty minutes to prepare. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 4d. Gooseberry Souffl.6 (a pretty supper dish). Pick the gooseberries, and boil them with a liberal allowance of sugai' until tender. Press them through a coarse sieve, and put the pulp into a glass dish. Let it grow cold, thei . pour over it a good custard. This may he made with the yolks of eggs, and the whites beaten to a firm froth, and laicl over the souffle just before sending to table. The appeai-ance is improved by colouring half the white of egg with a few drops of cochineal. Time, about three-quarters of an houi- to boil a quart of gooseberries till they are tender. Sufficient, a quart of gooseberries and a pint and a half of custard for six or eight persons. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Gooseberry Tart. Fick oft' the tops and stalks of the gooseberries. Put them into a pie-dish, pile them high in the centre, strew a little sugar over them, and add a table-spoonful of water. line the edge of the dish with a. good crust, put on the cover, and bake in a brisk oven. Strew a little powdered sugar over before sending the tart to table. A little cream or custard is a great improvement to this dish. An ample allowance of sugar is required for gooseberries, especially wheu they are partially GOO ( 268 ) GRA ripe. The smell of gooseberry tart, we may observe, by the way, exactly resembles that of the true forget-me-not. Two pints and a half of gooseberries will make a pie for four or five persons. Probable cost, 9d. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Gooseberry Trifle. Cut a quarter of a pound of Savoy cakes into thin slices, and place them at the bottom of a deep glass dish. Pour over them a little sherry, brandy, or whiskey, and let them soak until soft. BoU half a jjint of water with a pound of loaf sugar for ten minutes. Put in a pint and a half of green gooseberries, picked, washed, and drained. Let fhem boil till they are tender, but unbroken, and, when cool, place them on the Savoy cake. Make a pint and a haK of good plain custard, nicely flavoured with lemon or vanilla. Pour it over the gooseberries, and ornament with a little whipped cream, or the beaten white of egg. Time, about an hour and a haK to prepare. This dish is better made three or four hours before it is wanted. Sufficient for a supper dish for six or eight persons. Probable coat, about Is. 8d., exclusive of the 'v\'ine or brandy. Gooseberry Turnovers. Make some good light crust. Roll it out two or thi-ee times, then leave it a quarter of an inch in thickness. Stamp it out in rounds -svith a cup, plate, or small basin, and lay a few gooseberries, which have been stewed with sugar, on one half of each round. Turn the other half over the fruit, fasten the edges securely, and bake on buttered tins in a moderate oven. Serve on a napkin, with sifted sugar. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Id. each. Gooseberry Vinegar (excellent for pickling). Pick and bruise a quart of ripe gooseberries. Put them into a bowl, and mix with them three quarts of spring water which has been boiled and grown cold. Let them remain for two days, stirring frequently ; then strain, and add two pounds of sifted sugar to each gallon of liquid. Put this into a cask, and with it a piece of toasted bread, dipped in yeast. Put a piece of muslin over the bunghole, to keep out the flies, and set it in a warm place, but not in the sun. The vinegar may be bottled in nine months. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per gallon. SuflBcient for a quart of vinegar. Gooseberry Water. Bruise the fruit, and press out the juice through a coarse sieve. Mix with it an equal quantity of water. Boil .and filter the liquid. Sweeten it according to taste, and add a little lemon-juice. This will be a refreshing and agreeable beverage, if not made too sweet, which is a common fault. The exact amount of sugar required cannot be given, as it depends upon the acidity of the fruit. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Gooseberry Wine, Effervescing. Cut the tops and stalks from some sound green gooseberries ; bruise them thoroughly, and add a quart of cold spring water for every pound of fruit. Leave them for three or four days, stuTing frequently. Strain through a sieve, and add three pounds of loaf sugar to every gallon of liquid. When the sugar is dissolved, put the liquid into a cask, with a bottle of gin and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to every five gallons of wine. It wlU, in all probability, be ready to bottle in six months ; but if not quite clear it must remain longer. The gooseberrie.s should be taken when fully grown, before they begin to turn ripe. Probable cost. Is. 8d. per gallon, exclusive of the spirit. Gooseberry Wine, StilL Pick and bruise the fruit, and put it in a large tub. Let it stand twenty-four hours, then drain off the juice, and add a quart of lukewai-m water to every gallon of gooseberries. Let this stand twelve hours. INIix the water with the juice, and add twelve pounds of loaf sugar to five gallons of liquid. Let it fennent well. The temperature should be in proportion to the ripeness of the fruit. If necessary, the liquid should be placed near the fire. In two or three days it will be ready for the cask. Put it into the cask with two quarts of brandy to five gallons of liquid. Bimg it well. To be in perfection, gooseberry wine should not be bottled for five years ; but, if required, it may be used at the end of twelve months. Probable cost, Is. 8d. per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. Gotham Pudding. Dissolve a piece of saleratus the size of a small nut in a tablespoonful of hot water, and mix with it a breakfast-cupfid of milk, three well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of floui-. Wlien quite smooth, add a pinch of salt, and four ounces of candied citron, cut into thin slices. Beat thoroughly for ten minutes, pour the mixtui'e into a buttered mould, tie the mould in a floured cloth, and boil for an hour and a half. Turn out, and serve with wine sauce. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Graham Cakes. Make a dough with some Graham meal and as much boiling milk as it will take, and yet be rolled out. Add a little salt, and roll out the dough three-quarters of an inch thick. Cut it into rounds, and bake in a very hot oven, when the cakes will be light and puft'y ; if it is not sufficiently hot, they will be very heavy. Time, ten or twelve minutes to bake. Sufficient, about a quart of boiling milk to haK a pint of meal. Grandmamma's Pickle. Take a sound white cabbage and a young cauliflower. Divide the latter into small sprigs, and cut the cabbage into thin shreds, in the same way as red cabbage is cut for pickling. Spread them out on separate dishes, and cover them with salt. Let them remain forty-three hours, then set the pieces of cauliflower on a sieve, and let them drain before the fire. Squeeze the salt from the cabbage with the hands, and put the cabbage and cauliflower in layers into pickle-bottles or jars. Boil as much vinegar as will amply cover them, allowing an ounce of whole ginger, broken into pieces, haK an ounce of mustardseed, and half an ounce of pepper, to every quart of vinegar. Let these ingredients boil toge er for two or three minutes, and, when cold, pour them into the bottles. A tablespoonful of turmei'ic may be mixed with a little GRA ( 269 ) GRA cold Adnegar, and added to the rest while boiling. Put the spices at the top of the pickles, and cover the jars closely. Fresh vinegar must be added when necessary. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Granito Claret. Put the thin rind of two oranges in half a pint of water. Let it soak for two hours, strain it, and boil the water with half a pound of sugar for ten minutes. Add the strained j uice of six oranges, a cupful of water, and a pint bottle of claret. Put the mixture into wide-mouthed bottles, cork them, and move them round in the ice. As the mixture freezes it should be loosened from the sides of the bottles, and then put into claret-glasses. Sufficient for two pints and a half. Granito Punch, Iced. Ivub the yellow rind of an orange and of half a lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar. Mix with them three wine-glassfuls of green tea, and the same of brandy, riun, syrup, maraschino, and pineapple syrup. Add the juice of two lemons, the juice of an orange, and a pint bottle of Champagne. When well mixed, freeze as usual, and serve in glasses. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a quart. Granito, Roman. Mix a pint and a half of strong coffee with a pint and a half of syrup. iS train through a silk sieve into wide-mouthed decanters, and freeze as directed in the recipe for granito claret. Serve in coffeecups or glasses. Sufficient for three pints. Granito Sherry. Make a syrup with half a pint of water and half a pound of sugar. Soak in this the thin rind of two lemons, and, in two hours, strain through a silk sieve, and add a cupful of water, the strained juice of six lemons, and a pint bottle of sherry. Freeze as directed for granito claret, and serve in glasses. Sufficient for two pints and a half. Grapes. Grapes are grown extensively in France, and made into wine. Those grown in this country are chiefly used for dessert, and are particularly welcome in cases of illness, being both refreshing and wholesome. The best way to keep them is to pick out all that are in the least decayed, and to pass a thread through the stalk of each bunch, then seal the end of the stalk, to keep it from drying, and place the fruit gently in a bag, made of thin paper. The mouth of the bag should then be closed, and secured with string. The grapes should be hung up by the thi-ead to the ceiling of a cool room, and preserved at as low a temperature as possible until required for use. Grape, Green, Marmalade. Pick the grapes, put them into a saucepan, and barely cover them 'ith boiling water. Let them simmer for eight or ten minutes, but do [ not let them break. Take them out, drain them, let them cool, then press them through a coarse sieve, and add a pound of loaf sugar to every pound of pulp. Boil them gently for [ twenty minutes, pour into jars, cover with brandied and gummed paper, and keej) in a cool place. Sufficient, one pound of fruit for one pound of jam. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per pound. Grape Isinglass Jelly. Dissolve one ounce of isinglass or gelatine in a cupfiil of Avatcr. Put a pound and a half of ripe purple grapes into a saucepan. Bruise them with the back of a wooden spoon until the juice flows freely. Strain them, without pressure, through two or three thicknesses of muslin, and, when the juice is clear, boil it, with half a pound of loaf sugar and the dissolved isinglass, for ton minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, pour it into an oiled mould, and put it into a cool place xmtil fii-mly set. Time, ten minutes to boil the jelly. Sufficient for a pint and a half of jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Grape Jelly. Pick some purple grapes, put them into a saucepan, and bruise them gently until the juice flows freely from them. Strain, without squeezing them, two or three times through thick muslin, and, when clear, boil the juice rapidly for twenty minutes. Add a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of juice, stir it until diss?lved, and boil a quarter of an hour longer. Put the jelly into jars, and cover with oiled or brandied paper, and afterwards with giunmed paper. Probable cost of grapes, when plentiful, lOd. or Is. per pound. A quart of grapes should yield about one pint of juice. Grape Water Ice. Hub the yellow part of the rind of an orange on a large lump of sugar. Dissolve it in half a pint of water, and add the juice of four lemons, one pint of clarified sugar, two glasses of grape syruj), and one glass of sherry. When thoroughly mixed, strain and freeze. Sufficient for one quart. Time to freeze, about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the sherry. Grape Wine, Sparkling. Take the grapes before they are fully ripe, put stalks and fruit into a convenient-sized tub, delicately clean, bruise them until every berry is broken, and to every pound of fruit add a quart of cold water. Leave them for three days, stirring them twice or three times every day. Strain and add three jDounds and a quarter of lump sugar to every gallon of liquid. "When this is dissolved, jnit the wine at once into the cask, which should be kept full to the bung. It is well to reserve half a gallon for the purpose of filling it up as the fermentation subsides. In ten days add one pint of brandy and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to every five gallons of wine. Keep the cask in a cool cellar. The wine should be bottled in champagne bottles when the vines are in bloom the following summer, and the corks must be wired down. Time, a fortnight to make. Probable cost, 4s. per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. Grapes, Pickled. Pick the grapes from the stalks. Reject any that are unsound, and put them into a deep jar with as much whitewine vinegar as will amply cover them. Tie them down with a bladder, and keep them in a cool dry place. They ?will be ready for use in a month. Probable cost of grapes, when plentiful, lOd. to Is. per pound. GRA (270 ) GRA Grapes, To Preserve. Take four pouuds of grape.s before they are fully ripe. Put them on the fii-e in a saucepan of cold Vr-atcr, and lot them remain until the water nearly boila, tlien di-ain them and put them into cold water. Boil four pounds of sugar in two quarts of water, skim it carefully, and, when cold, put the fruit in an enamelled saucepan, pour the syrup over it, and let all stand for twenty-four hours, I'ut the grapes on the lire, beat them till the syrup is scalding hot, and put them aside until the next day, then di-ain ol!:" the syrup, and boil it gently for twenty minutes. Four it over the grapes, which should be aiTanged in a clean saucepan, and bring them once more to the point of boiling. Put the preserve into jars, and pour a little diissolved aj plo jelly over them. Probable cost of grapes, when plentiful, lOd. or Is. per pound. Grapes, To Preserve in Brandy (for winter dessert). Take some fine bunches of grapes. Look them over carefully, to see that all are quite sound, prick each grape in three iplac s, and lay them in deep earthen jars. 'Cover them with white sugar-candy, crushed to a fine powder, and fill up the jars with brandy. Cover the jara securely with a bladder, and keep ?Ln a cool dry place. Gratin. Gratin is a French forcemeat. It iniay be made either of the lean part of veal or iho breast and wings of a fowl. Take a calf's ?udder, and boil it gently, with as much water as will cover it, until sufficiently cooked. Let it ?cool, cut away all the upper part, and divide the rest into small pieces, which must be pounded in a mortar imtil they can be passed 'through a coarse sieve. Take equal parts of veal and cooked liver, cut them into small pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a little .salt and ] epper, and a table-sjwonful of savoury herbs, powdered. Fry them in a little butter" for ten minutes, then mince finely, and pound the meat until perfectly smooth, with half the quantity of veal udder. If necessary, butter may be substituted for the ?udder. Pound all thoroughly, and, whilst pounding, add three i-aw eggs at different times. Make up a small ball of the forcemeat, and throw it into boiling water, to try whether it is light and properly seasoned. If it be too firm, add a little water, if too soft, another egg. Probable cost of veal. Is. per .pound. Gravy. Gravies should never be at variance in flavour with the dish which they are to accompany, and in nothing is the skill and judgment of a good cook so much displayed .as in their management. They may be imade a source of unceasing expense, or be .amply supplied at a merely nominal cost, and in moderate households ought certainly to be ?made from the bones and trimmings of the joints themselves. Full directions will bo given in this work for almost every gravy that can be required in domestic cookery, but, as a general rule, it should be i-emembered that the gravy of the meat to be used is always most suitable to send to table with it. The bones dre.ssed and undressed, the trimmings of meat, and the necks and feet of poultry and game should be carefully preserved, and used for this puqiose. When these are not sufficient, fresh meat or fresh bones must be used the fresher the better. All sujierfiuous fat should be removed before stewing, and the gravy kept in a cool, diy place, in an earthen pan. Long simmering is required to extract the full flavour of the meat ; and if any fat is in the gravy after GRAVY STRAINER. boiling, it is better left on until the gra%'y is required. Gravy should be sejit to table hot, and in a tureen, with a very small quantity in the dish with the meat. Nothing can be more unpleasant than for the carver to find tliat whilst performing his duties he has bespattered those of his friends who, unfortunately for themselves, were placed near him. Good gravy may be made from the skirts and kidney of beef, the shank bones of mutton, previously soaked, the knuckle of veal or mutton, the shin of beef, a cow-heel, or the liquid in which meat has been boiled. Brown made dishes require savoury gravies, white dishes delicately flavoured ones. Where the flavouiof onions is too strong in gravies, it may be lessoned by boiling a turnip in it for a little while. When lean meat is to be made into gravy it should be beaten and scored before stewing. Gravy and Eggs (sec Eggs and Gravy). Gravy, Beef, Clear. Cut two iwunds of the shin of beef into small pieces, and fry these over a clear, fire until lightly browned, but take care they do not burn. Pour over them a quart of boiling water, skim thoroughly, and simmer for half an hour. Then add a salt-spoonful of salt, a large onion, sliced and fried, a bunch of parsley and thyme, two cloves, and six or eight peppercorns. Simmer gently for two hours. Strain, and put it aside for use. Remove the fat from the top before heating it. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gravy. JE ix)bable cost. Is. Gravy, Beef, for Poultry and Game. Cut one pound of coarse beef into small pieces, and put these into a saucepan with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-.spoonful O'f pepper, a shallot, and a pint of cold water. Simmer gently by the side of the fire for two hours and a half, then strain, add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and thicken with a tea-spoonful of an-owroot mixed with a little cold water. Boil once more, and ser*-e as GRA ( 271 ) GRA hot as possible. Probablo cost, Sd. Sufladcnt for one jjint of gravy. Gravy, Beef, Plain. Cut some coarse pieces of L eef into dice, strew a little siilt over them, and put them in a closely-covered saucepan, by the side of a gentle fire, until the juice flows from the meat and glazes at the bottom of the jxin. Four in as much boiling stock or water as will cover the meat, and simnter gently for an hour and a half. Probable cost of beef, 8d. per pound. Suihcient, half a pound of beef for a i iu.t of gravy. Gravy, Bon Vivant's Sauce for (sometimes called Epicurean Sauce J. Mince two ounces of shallots very finely, and put them into a bottle with six table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, si.x of mushroom ketchup, four of soy, four of port, a dozen peppercorns, j -eight cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, i and three-quarters of a pint of vinegar. Cork the bottle closely, and let it remain for three I weeks, shaking it occasionally. At the end of that time strain carefully, keep it in bottles secui-ely stoppered, and store for use. A table-spoonful will flavour half a pint of sauce sufhciently for the taste of most persons. Probable cost. Is. per pint, yufficient for a pint and a half of sauce. Gravy, Brown, Cheap and Good. Toiist a slice of bread on both side until hard and darkly brownecr, but it must not bum. Cut i two large onions into thin slices, fry them in a i little dripping or butter till brightly browned, and pour over them a quart of boiling water or stock. Put in the toast, and any trimmings of meat, or poultry, or bones from dressed joints, choppe-d iiUo small pieces, that are to be had, with a bunch of savourj' herbs. Simmer gently until the gravy is thick and good, tjti-ain, add salt and pepper, and a tiible-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and put aside for \ise. Time, about thi-ee hours to simmer. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the bones. Sufficient for one pint of gravy. Gravy, Brown, Roux for Thickening. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a scrupulously clean saucepan, melt it slowly, and add very gi-adually half a pound of flour. The flour should be shaken in from a dredging-box, and stirred with a wooden spoon nntil the roux is i erfectly smooth and a bright brown colour. The edge of the spoon should be pressed rather heavily on the bottom of the saucepan, to prevent burning, which would certainly spoil the roux. Though this thickening is best when freshly made, it will ke p for some days if poured into jars, and the surface kept entire. It is an improvement to make it with browned flour that is, flour which has been kept in a slow oven until it is lightly bro vned all through. Vhen this is used, the roux need not be so long on the fire. It may be used with either hot or cold gravy. If the gravy be hot, the roux shoidd be moistened gradually with it off the fire ; if cold, it should be stirred on the fire till the gi'a'vj' boils. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. A dessert-spoonful of roux will thicken a pint of gravj-. Gravy, Brown, Soup (made from bones and ti-imming-s). Tidve the bones of dressed meat beef is the best which weighed before cooking about twelve pounds. Break them up into small pieces, and put these into a saucepan, with five quails of cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently, but continuously, for six hours. Strain through a sieve, and leave the soup until the next day. Pemove the fat from the top, leave any sediment there may be at the bottom, and pour the soup gently into a clean saucepan, with two carrots, one tirrnip, three onions, aU sliced, a head of celery, or half a ch-achm of pounded celery-seed, tied in muslin, a bundle of sweet herbs, and eight peppercorns. Bring it to a boil, skim it carefully, and add a dessertspoonful of salt, which will assist the scum in rising. Draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer gently for two hours. Strain it two or three times, and, to clear it, stir into it when hot, the whites of two eggs, whisked thoroughly, and mixed with four tea-spoonfuls of cold water, and afterwards with a little of the soup. Beat this into the soup over the fire, and keep whisking tiU it boils. Skim carefully tiU it is quite clear. Add three table-spoonfuls of I iebig's Extract of Meat, and, if necessary, a httle browning (see Browning), but great care must be taken with this, or the flavour of the soup will be spoilt. This soup is wholesome, nourishing, and cheap, and though it cannot be said that a soup which costs 4d. per quart is quite equal to one which costs Is. 4d., yet, if the directions are closel}- followed, the result will be decidedly satisfactoiy. If anj- lady woiild take the trouble to try it for herself, she would see that it can be done, but, unfortunately, there exists amongsi ordinary domestic servants such a prejudice against anything economical that, if the soup were left to them, there is a danger that it would not be properly attended to, and, perhaps, be boiled hard one hour and stopped entirely another, or, what is worse, not carefully skimmed as it is coming to a boil. It is a good plan to brown a small quantity of meat say a quarter of a pound of beef and a quarter of a poimd of veal- draw out the juice with a little cold water, and then simmer these with the bones. The soup will look better if made without vegetables, it will taste better with them. It should certainly be made the day before it is wanted for use. Probable cost, about 4d. per quart. Suflficient to make two quarts of soup. Gravy, Brown, Soup (made from fresh meat). Take half a pound of lean ham, two pounds of the shin of beef, and two pounds of veal. Cut the meat from the bones, break the latter into small \ ieces, and, if there be any marrow, lay it at the bottom of a de'cp saucepan. If there be no marrow, use a quarter of a pound of butter. Put in the meat (which should be cut up) and bones, cover closely, and place the saucepan on the fire. "SVhen well browned on one side, turn the meat over on the other, and take care it does not bum. " Tien the meat is thoroughly browned, add a pint of cold water to diaw out the juice. In a quarter of an hour GHA (272) GRA add three quarts of boiling water, with two carrots, one turnip, three or four onions, all sliced, a head of ccler\-, or half a dracl;m of pounded celery-seed, tied in muslin, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a dozen peppercorns. Bring the soup to a boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, which will assist it in rising. When well skimmed, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently, but continuously, for four- hours. Take it off, and strain the soup through a jelly-bag. Let it stand until the ne.xt day. Lift the fat off the top in a cake, and, when pouring the soup off to warm, be careful not to disturb the sediment. Strain it again, if necessary ; but if the directions have been followed, the soup will be clear and bright, with a brown tinge. It will look better if made without vegetables ; it will taste better with them. This soup forms the basis of all other kinds. If through any mischance it should not be clear, see directions for Clarifying Soup. It is better made the day before it is wanted, so that the fat can be entirely removed. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per quart. Sufficient for three quarts of soup. Gravy, Colouring and Flavouring. In colouring gravies the same directions may be followed which have been given for colouring soups {see Colouring). When this is done, however, care must be taken that the flavour given by it is not sufficiently strong to be detected. When gravy is made from stock, all danger of this may be removed by combining the colouring and flavouring. Prepare the stock separately. Set it aside, and put a piece of butter about the size of a walnut into a saucepan, with two ounces of uncooked lean ham, chopped small, a shallot, finely minced, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, a sprig of parsley, and three cloves. Cover the pan closely, and let these stew slowly for half an hour. Shake the pan several times to prevent the meat burning, and when the side of the saucepan is brightly browned, add threequarters of a pint of unflavoured stock. Boil all together another half-hour, thicken, if necessary, with a tea-spoonful of flour, add salt and pepper, and strain before serving. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint of gravy. Gravy, Cow-heel (clear). Put a cowheel, which has been scalded and properly prepared, but not boiled, into a saucepan, with an onion, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and three pints of cold water. Skim it carefally, and, when the scum ceases to rise, cover the pan closely, and simmer gently by the side of the fire for three hours. Strain carefully, and put aside until cold; remove the fat from the top, and pour off the gravy, being careful to leave the sediment undistui'bed. Probable cost, one cow-heel, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gravy. Gravy, Eggs Poached in {see Eggs Poached in Gravy). Gravy, English, Brown. Cut six ounces of lean ham into square pieces, and fry a nice brown. When done, remove them from the fi-ying-pan into a stewpan. Then fry two pounds of neck or shin of beef, hghtly floured, also a middle-sized onion, or two or three shallots. Place them all together in the stewpan with the ham, and cover with about two I pints of stock; skim as the liquid boils, and i add salt, a few cloves, peppercorns, a blade of ! mace, a smaU bunch of herbs, a carrot, and a I head of celery. Let all boil till reduced in I quantity to one-half; then strain, and when j quite cold, take off the fat. When required, heat the gravy again, and flavour with the sauce best adapted to the dish for which it is intended. If the gravy be properly boiled, it will be thick enough. Half this quantity is sufficient at a time, and careful housekeepers would reduce the quantity of meat. Time, from three to four hours. Probable cost of beef, about 8d. per pound. Sufficient for one pint of gravy. Gravy Espagnole (a highly flavoured brown gravy). As this gravy will keep good for three or four days, and is frequently required in domestic cookery, it is well to make more than will be used at one time, and put it aside until wanted. It should be looked at every day, and will keep longer if it is boiled occasionally. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, and, when it is melted, place on it a moderate-sized onion, cut into 'slices. Turn these over until they are lightly browned, then add a quarter of a pound of the lean of ham or bacon, in dice (undressed), a large can-ot , scraped or cut into small pieces, two spiigs of parsley, one of thyme, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, a dozen peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf. Pour in a cupful of cold water and shako the pan, or stir it occasionally, over a moderate fire for a quarter of an hour, until the ingredients are brightly browned. Add very gradually a pint of good stock, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Strain, skim oft' the fat, and the gi'avy will be ready for use. Salt must be added, if necessary, but this will depend upon the saltness of the ham. When no stock is at hand, half a pound of lean beef may be cut into small squares, and fried with the rest, but when this is done a pint and a half I of Avater should be added, and the gravy simmered an hour and a half. Another plan is to dissolve half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's ox i tract in the gravy. If a rich gravy is reqmred, a glass of sherrj' or Madeira and a table-spoonful of ketchup may be put into the saucepan a few minutes before it is taken from the fire. To thicken the gravy, dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, mix with it an ounce of flour, and stir it with a wooden spoon until brightly browned, add gradually the strained gravy, and boil. Sufficient for nearly a pint of gravy. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Gravy Espagnole, made without Meat. Cut two large onions into thick slices, and fry them in an ounce and a half of butter until brightly browned. Put with them a scraped carrot, two sprigs of parsley, GBA (273) GEA one of thyme, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, a bay-leaf, three or four cloves, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of anchovy essence, a thick crust of bread, toasted brown and hard, but not bui-nt, six peppercorns, and half a sjiltspoonful of salt. Pour over these ingredients a breakfast-cupful of water and a breakfastcupful of beer. Simmer gently "or half an hour, strain, and serve. Thicken -.h flour and butter, if required. Probable cost, 5d. iSufiicient for a pint of gravy. Gi'avy, Essence of Ham for. A ham bone is always considered a valuable addition to the stock-pot, but it may be used to greater advantage by making of it an essence with which to flavour sauces and gravies. Cut from it very carefully all the little pieces of meat. Pound these in a mortar, and put them into a saucepan with the bone broken small, a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of thyme and parsley, and a pint and a half of good beef stock. Simmer gently by the side of the fire for a couple of hours, oi- until the flavour is thoroughly extracted. Put the liquid into a bottle, and set aside for use. Probable cost, about 3d., exclusive of the ham bone. Sufficient for a pint of essence. Gravy for Boiled Meat. Boiled meat is usually sent to table with a little of the liquid in which the meat was cooked. When a variation is desired, haH a pint of the liquid may be thickened with a little floui- and butter, and flavoured with a table-spoonful of finelychopped pickled gherkins or walnuts, and a dessert-spoonful of minced parsley. A teaspoonful of mustard mixed with a small quantity of vinegar may then be added. This sauce should, of course, be served in a tureen, not put on the same dish as the meat. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient, half a pint for four or five persons. Gravy for Curried Fish. Melt a piece of butter the size of a small egg in a saucepan, and fry two sliced onions in it until lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and mix with them a pint and a half of good stock, and, if the flavour is liked, two sharp apples, pared and cored. Simmer gently until the onions are sufiiciently tender to be pressed tkrough a sieve, and, after this has 'been done, boil once more, thicken the gravy with a table-spoonful of flour and a table- spoonful of curry-powder, mixed with a little cold water, and add a pinch of salt. Boil for haK an hoiu-, and just before serving add two table-spoonfuls of good cream. Time, an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, od. Sufiicient for a pint and a half of gravy. Gravy for Cutlets. Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut into a saucepan, and, when melted, fry two sliced onions in it until they are lightly browned. Add gradually one pint of good stock, half a dozen peppercorns, two sprigs of parsley, three or four cloves, and a crust of bread toasted brown and hard on both sides, but not burnt. Simmer gently for one hour, then strain, and thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour. Add salt to taste, and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup. A little browning may be added, if necessary. If no stock is at hand, a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract may be dissolved in some warm water and used instead. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for nearly a pint of gravy. Gravy for Cutlets (another way). After the cutlets have been fried, lift them out of the pan, and put them in the oven on a hot dish. Mix a table-spoonful of floiu- very smoothly with a table-sjioonful of the fat from the cutlets, and stir it over the fire with a. wooden spoon till it is lightly browned; add half a pint of boiling water, a little salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or ketchup, or a table-spoonful of tinely-niinced gherkins, walnuts, capers, or anj favourite pickle. When a rich sauce is wanted, a wineglassful of port may be added. Serve in a tureen. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one pound of cutlets. Gravy for Ducks. Put the giblets into a stewpan with a large onion, two or three sage-leaves, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and two pints of stock. Simmer gently for two hours. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold water, boil once more for a quarter of an hour, and serve in a tureen. A glass of jiort or claret is an improvement. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a jnnt and a half of gravy (sec also Gravy for Goose or Duck). Gravy for Fish Pies, &c. Take anycommon fish that you may have, or can easily obtain, such as eels, flounders, or pike, or a mixture of one or two kinds. Cut them into smaLl Ijieces, and put them into a stewpan. To two pounds of fish put a pint and a half of water, a little pepper and salt, two or three bunches of parsley, a sprig of marjoram, and the same of thyme, a blade of mace, and a crust of bread, toasted till brown and hard. Simmer gently for an hour or more, then strain ; thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, or two or three anchovies i ounded. If brown gravy is wanted, the fish must be fried before it is stewed. The probable cost depends upon the price of the fish, which is very fluctuating. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of gravy. Gravy for Fowls, Cheap. Take two. ounces of lean ham, cut them into dice, and fry them in a very little butter until brightly browned. Pour over them gradually half a pint of stock, and add six peppercorns, a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and half a slice of bread, toasted brown and hard, but not burnt. Simmer gently for three-quar, ero of an hour, strain, add a pinch of salt, if necessary, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Gravy for Game. Melt a piece of butter the size of a small egg in a saucepan, and mix with it very smoothly a table-spoonful of flour. GRA (274 ) GBA AVhcn lightly browTied, add a cupfiil of good stock, half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustiird, a tiny pindi of cayenne, as much powdered mace as will stand on the point of a knife, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice. Boil for twenty minutes. Add a wine-glassful of shorr}% and serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. Gravy for Goose or Duck. Put a piece of butter the size of a small egg into a siucepan, and fry in it, until lightly browned, two onions, sliced, and half a tea-spoonful of powdered sage. Add a cupful of good bro\s-n g:i-avy, a grain of cayenne, half a teti-spoonful of popper, and a pinch of salt, if the gravy has not been already sciisoned. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain, return the gravy to the saucepan, and add a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, and a wine-glassful of port or claret. Make the gravj' as hot as possible, without boiling, after the wino is added. Time, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. Gravy for Grills and Broils. Rub a table-spoonful of dour into an ounce of good butter. ]\Iix with it half a pint of good strong stocJc, a table-spoonful of ketchuij, the juice and rind of a quarter of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, three grains of cayenne, a tea-sj oonful of chopped capers, and a shallot, finely minced. Put the.sc ingredients into a saucepan. Let them boil, then simmer gently for five or six minutes, sti-ain, and serve. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Gravy for Haddock, Baked. Brown a sliced onion in a little butter, and add gradually a pint of good stock, or a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat dissolved in warm water. Thicken with a table-spoonful of tiour, and let the mixtiu-e simmer with a bunch of parsley for twenty minutes. Skim off the fat, strain the gravy, and add pepper and salt to taste, a little browning, if necessary, and a tablo-gpoonf ul of mushroom ketchup. Serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint of gi-avy. Gravy for Hare. Thicken half a pint of stock with a dessert-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a small quantity of the liquid at first, and afterwards added to the rest. Let it boil for twenty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of soy, pepper and salt, if necessary, and half a tumbler of port or claret. Send a little of the gravy in the dish with the hare, and the rest in a tureen. Probable cx)st, exclusive of the wine, 2d. Sufficient for nearly a pint of gravy. Gravy for Hare (another way). When no stock is in the house, procure half a xiund of gravy beef, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a saucepixn with three-quarters of a pint of water, two spngs of parsley, one small sprig of marjoi-am, and the same of thjTne, a large onron, with one clove .stuck into it, half a dozen peppercorns, and a piece of bread toasted on both sides. Simmer gently for one hour, then strain, thicken the giuvy with a dessert-spoonful of flour, let it boil once more for half an hour, add a table -spoonful of soy, and half a tumblerful of ])ort or claret, and serve as before. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint of gravy. Gravy for Hashes. Take the bones and trimmings of the joint from wliich the hash is to be made, break tho bones into small pieces, put all into a saucepan, and cover them with boiling water. Put a quarter of a drachm of bi-uised celery-seed, tied in muslin, or two or three of the outside sticks of celery, wliich should always be kept for flavouring purposes, six peppercorns, fom- berries of allspice, two sprigs of parsley, one of marjoram, and one of thjTue, with a pint and a half of water. Simmer gently for half an hour, then strain. Cut a small onion into slices, and fry it till lightly browned in a piece of butter the size of a waliiut. Mix in, very smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour, and add gradually the strained gravy. Boil all for twenty minutes, strain once more, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and any flavouring that may be prefeiTed, such as ketchup, finelyminced pickles, capers, or a wine-gla.ssful of ale or wine. When quite hot, the gi-avy is ready for the meat, whicli sliould only be in the pan long enough to heat through, and should on no account whfitever be allowed to boil. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for half a dozen i eraons. Gravy for Hashes, Chea.p. Diiide into small piecas the bonas and trimmings of the meat to be hashed, and put them into a saucepan, with as much boiling water as will cover them, and to every pint and a half of water add six berries of allspice, si.x peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of pounded cederyseed, tied in muslin, a small bundle of savoury herbs, half a salt-spoonfid of salt, and half a shce of bread, toasted on both sides till it is brown and hard, but not burnt. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently for an hour. Cut a good-sized onion into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Let them remain over the fire till brightly browned, moving them about to j revent them bui-ning. Mix in verj' smoothly as much flour as will make a stiff batter, and add gradually tho gravy made from the bones and trimmings. Boil gently for a few minutes, to take off the raw taste of the flour, strain it through a coarse sieve, and it is ready for the hash, which, it is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to say, must not be boiled in it, but only weU heated. The g a 'y is improved by tho addition of a tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup, or Harvey's sauce, or finely-minced pickles. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of tho bones, &c. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of gi'avj'. Instead of thickening in tho way described above, two dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of anchovj' sauce, and about half a tea-spoonful of made mustard may be mixed smoothly with a little water stirred into tho gravy, which should then be stewed gently twenty minutes longer. GRA (275) GBA Gravy for Minced Veal, Cheap. Put the trimmings and bones of tlio veal into a saucepan, with as much water as will cover them. With a pint of water put a small onion, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, a small sprig- of tii\-nu', a blade of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Stow gently for an hour, then strain the gi'avy, thicken it with a little flom- and butter, and add a tablo-spoonful of cream or milk. The flavour may be \'aried by the addition of mushroom or walnut ketchup, or the cream may be omitted, and the juice of half a lemon substituted for it. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint. Gravy for Patties. Take the bones, skin, and trimmings of the meat of which the patties are made, and put them into a jar with as much water as will cover them, a little pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, and a shallot, finelyminced. Tie two or three folds of paper over the jar, and place it in a moderate oven for two hours. Strain theigravy, skim it carefully, let it boil, and it is ready to be put intotho patties. If these are made of venison or hai-c, it is an improvement to dissolve a small quantity of red currant jelly in the gravy, and to add a little claret. Gravy for Pike, Baked. Mix a tablespoonful of flour very smoothly with half a pint of stock. Simmer gently, with a minced onion and a sprig of parsley, for twenty minutes, then strain and skim carefully, add pepper and salt to taste, and a dessert-spoonful of ketchup. Drain off the fat from the pan in which the pike has been baked, pour in the boiling liquid, stir it well, let it boil up once more, and 8er\'c. If no stock is at hand, a little may be made fiom gravy beef, any bones and ?trimmings of meat, or Liebig's extract of meat. Probable cost, about 2d. Sufficient for half a pint "of gra-Yj. Gravy for Rissoles. Take the skba, trimmings, and bones of the meat from which the rissoles have been made. Divide them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a minced onion and a piece of butter the sizo of a walnut. Tiu-n them about over a quick fire till they are lightly browned, then add a pint of boiling water, a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen peppercorns, and half a slice of toasted broad. Put on the lid of the saucepan, and simmer gently for an hour. Strain ; thicken the gi'avy with a tablospoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold water, add a tablo-spoonful of ketchup and half a salt-spoonful of salt, boil once more, and serve. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for a pint of gra-vj-. Gravy for Roast Meat. Alxjut twenty minutes before the joint is taken from the fire, put a common dish imdrr it, and pour slowly and gradually over the brown parts of the meat two or three tablo-six)onfids of boiling water, in which half a tea-spoonful of salt has been dissolved. When it has all dropped into the olish, set it a.side, carefully sldm oft' the fat a.s it rises to the, surface, for it is very disagreeable to have bubbles of fat on the :top of the graxy in the dish, let it boil, and servo a vory smaU quantity on the dish with the meat, and the rest in a tureen. When a larger quantity of gi-avy is required, there is in ordinary households no necessity to purchase gravy-beof in ordei- to obtain it. The trimmings and hard brown uneatable pieces of roasted and broiled meat or poultry should be regularly collected, put into a jar, and covered with boiling water. The next day they should be l)oiled and strained, and will then be ready for use. The brown liquid thus obtained will be much better than water to put under the joint. Gravy for Roast Venison. Take three shank-bones of mutton, and put t em into a stewpan with a pint of water and six or eight peppercorns, and, after bringing them to a boil, let them simmer gently for two houra. Skim and strain, add a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of red cuiTant jelly, and a glass of poi-t or claret. Boil up once, and the gravy is ready to sei've. If preferred, a tablo-spoonful of walnut ketchup may be substituted for the jelly and wine. Probable cost, about 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for nearlj'- a pint of gravy. Gravy for Roast Venison (another way). Boil a quarter of a pint of good French vinegar witli two ounces of pounded loaf sugar, and as soon as the latter is dissolved, pour it into a tureen. A well- tinned .saucepan should bo used in making this gravy. Time, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Gravy from Liebig's Extract of Meat. Excellent and nourishing gravy may be made from the extract of meat commonly known as Liebig's Extract of Sleat. ITiis valuable prejiaration cannot be too liighly prized. As a matter of economy alone, it ought j to be in every home. It is very good if simply dissolved in a little boiling water, and mixed with a rather liberal allowance of salt, but it may be converted into supeiior gravy, by attending to the following directions: Cut two ounces of the lean of undressed ham into dice, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of a wahiut, two shallots, finely mince I, two cloves, a blade of mace, two spiigs of paisley, one of sweet marjoram, and one of thyme, and six peppcrcornB. I'lace the jmn on a moderate fiie, and let it remain until the ham and the sides of the pan are biightly coloured, moving the pieces of meat about with a wooden simoon, to prevent burning, and to allow of their being equally brow led on all sides. Pour over them, very gradually, a jiint of boiling water, in which half a tea-spoonful of the extract has been dissolved. Boil, then simmer gently for half an hour, strain, and servo. If a thick sauce is wanted, the flouishould bo mixed smoothly with the butter befoi ( the gravy is put in. Probable cost, od. jxutea-spoonful of the extract. Sufficient for a quax't of gravy. Gravy, Garlic {see Garlic Gravy). Gravy in haste. Tako half a pound of lean bc f;f, an onion, and a caiTot, and cut them all into very small jjieces. Put them into a. GRA ( 276 ) GRA saucepan, with a piece of butter or good beef dripping the size of a large nut, and place them over a fire till they are brightly browned all over. Keep stirring the saucepan, to prevent their burning, and add three-quarters of a pint of water, a sprig of parsley and thyme, six peppercorns, two cloves, and haK a salt-spoonful of salt. Simmer gently, skim, and strain, and the gravy is ready for use. Time, half an hour to boil the gravy. Sufficient for threequarters of a pint of gravy. Probable cost, about 7d. per pint. Gravy in haste (another way). Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat in half a pint of boiling water. Fry the minced carrot and onion in a little butter or di-ip jing, until lightly browned, pour the liquid over them, let all boil together for ten minutes, add a dessert-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup, skim, strain, and serve. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. Gravy, Jelly for. Take a pound and a half of the shin of beef, a pound and a half of the knuckle of veal, and a quarter of a pound of lean uncooked ham. Cut the meat into small pieces, break the bone, remove the marrow, and add a bunch of savoury herbs, a sliced carrot, two blades of mace, eight peppercorns, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, three grains of cayenne, a lump of sugar, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Pour on four pints of water, or, better still, veal broth, and let the mixture simmer very gently for six hours. If quickly boiled the jelly will be spoilt. Remove the scum as it rises, and strain the gravy, which should be kept in a cool place, and boiled for a minute or two every two or three days, if it is to be kept some time. The above is an excellent recipe for making strong gravies and sauces. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for three pints. Gravy, Jugged. Take half a pound of lean ham, and two pounds of lean beef the shin is the best for this purjjose. Cut them into small square pieces, and put them into an earthen jar. Strew over, and amongst them, choj)ped vegetables and seasoning, consisting of a carrot, an onion, half a drachm of bruised celery-seed, tied in a piece of musHn, a blade of mace, three sprigs of parsley, and one each *f marjoram and thyme, six peppercorns, and a clove. Pour a quart of water on these ingredients, cover the jar closely, and place it in a moderate oven, for five or six hours. At the end of that time, skim and strain the gravy, which will be ready for use. Probable cost for this quantity, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Gravy, Kidney. Take half a beef kidney, or three sheeps' kidneys. Cut them into slices, flour them, and strew over them a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, of which two parts should be parsley, and one thyme. Put them into a saucepan Avith a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, and a small onion finely minced, and shake them over the fire until the gravy is almost dried up; then add a pint of boiling water, and simmer very gently for an hour and a half, or more, until the gravy is done to perfection. Then skim and strain. Add salt and cayenne, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Gravy made without Meat, for Fowls.- Take the feet, necks, livers, and gizzards of the fowls, wash them thoroughly, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with a bunch of savoury herbs, a small onion, haK a slice of bread, toasted brown and hard, but not burnt, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a pint and a half of water. Simmer very gently for an hour, or more. Pour the fat from the pan which has been under the fowl, strain the gravy to it, stir it well, strain it again into the saucepan ; add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, if this is liked, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a couj le of fowls. Gravy Maigre for Fish (sometimes called Root Gravy) . Cut half a clove of garlic, an onion, a cari-ot, and a turnip inta small pieces, and fry them to a glaze in a piece of butter the size of a large egg. Pour slowly over them a quarter of a j int of cold water, and add two grains of cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of salt, three cloves, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a dozen buttonmushrooms, and another lump of butter, rolled thickly in flour. Simmer gently for about twenty minutes, and before straining, add half a tumblerful of sherry or Madeira. Time, altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of gravy. Probable cost, -Id., exclusive of the wine. Gravy, Onion. Take three Spanish onions, cut them into slices, and fry them with two ounces of butter, till they are slightly browned. Drain them, and mix a table-spoonful of flour, very smoothly, with the fat. Add, gradually, three-quarters of a pint of stock, retui-n the onions to the saucepan, and simmer gently until they are quite soft. Season with pepper and salt, pass them through a fine sieve, and boil up once more, adding two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, two of claret, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. Time, altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Gravy, Orange (suitable for wild waterfowl). Cut a small onion into little pieces, and put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of veal stock, three or four loaves of basil, and the rind of a Seville orange or, failing this, a lemon. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, sti-ain the gravy, and add the juice of the orange, half a sfilt- spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a wine-glassful of port or claret. Return the liquid to the saucepan, make it as hot as possible without' letting it boil, and serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Gravy, Piquant, for Hash, Mince very finely two shallots and a quarter of a clove of garlic. Put them in a stowpan, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Fry very GBA (277) GRA gently, until lightly browned, and keep stii-ring, to prevent burning. ilix with the gravy, smoothly, two table-spoonfuls of flour, and a dessert-si)Oonful of chopped parsley. Add two table-spoonfuls of vinegar or lemon- juice, a cupful of good stock, and half a slice of bread, toasted until it is hrm and hard, but not burnt. Garnish the dish with pickled gherkins. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. (Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. Gravy, Savoury. This is another name for (JuUis, or Rich Gravy, which see. Gravy, Seasoning for. Put one ounce and a half of white pepper into a mortar, with half an ounce of mace, one ounce of nutmeg, two diachms of c iyennc, a drachm of ginger, and a drachm of cassia. Pound, and mix thoroughly. Put the powder into a small bottle, and keep it closely corked, or the streng-th and flavour will escape. A pinch of this powder will season half a pint of gravy. Gravy, Shallot (for Broils and Grills). Peel three shallots. Cut them into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan, with thi-ee tablespoonfuls of best French vinegar ; boil for five minutes, then add a quarter of a pint of clear brown gravy, two pinches of salt, and two grains of caj-enne. Boil altogether five minutes longer and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3d. Sufiicient for nearly half a pint of gravy. Gravy Soup, with Vermicelli. Take two quarts of clear brown g)"ivy soup {see Gravy, Brown, Soup). Let it boil, then drop into it, very gradually, three ounces of fresh vennicelli. If long kept, the soup will be quite spoilt. The vermicelli should be rubbed between the fingers, and di-opped in with one hand, whilst the soup is being stirred with the other to prevent any lumps forming. Simmer gently until it is thick and soft, and serve with a French roll in the tureen. A plateful of grated Parmesan cheese should be sent to table with the soup. The usual plan is to soak the vermicelli in boihng water for a few minutes, di-ain and cool it in a colander, then simmer it gently for five or six minutes, stirring frequently to prevent it getting into lumps. Time, from twenty to thirty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Probable cost, vermicelli, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Gravy, Stock for. For ordinary domestic use, a good cook will seldom require gravy-beef, with which to make gravy. The bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, the shank bones of mutton, which have been soaked, brushed, and long stewed with the gravy which is left from joints, will generally supply all that is wanted. When fresh meat is necessary, beef skirt, kidney, cow-heel, the shin of beef, or any of the ingredients Avhich aie used for the stock of soup, may be used for gravy. It should be remembered that ketchup and sauces for flavoui-ing c-hould be put in a short time only before serving, as the strength speedily evaporates ; and it is best to be very sparing in their use, as a little may be added, but cannot be taken out. If gravy is too weak, it should be boiled in an uncovered pan ; if ; strong, in a covered one. It should be kept in a cool place, in an earthen jar, the lid of which should not bo put on until the giavy is cool. If there is the slightest suspicion that the meat for gravy will not keep, it should be lightly fried. Gravy, To Clarify. Beat together the white and sliell of an c , mix with them a teacupful of cold water, stir this into the gi'avy when heated, whisk it well over the fii'o, and when it has boiled a few minutes, strain once or twice thi-ough a jelly-bag. Gravy, To Improve the Flavour or Strength Ot. When gravies are wanting in flavour, they may be improved by being boiled quickly in an uncovered saucepan, and by the addition of a Little ketchup, or any of the best prepared sauces. If this is not sufficient, take two or three ounces of the lean of uncooked ham or bacon, cut it into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, two shallots finely minced, a piece of parsley root, two allspice berries, three cloves, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Keep these ingredients over a gentle fire, shaking them often to prevent burning, for about half an hour, or until the pan is coloured with a bright red glaze ; add, very slowly, a pint and I a half of the gravy, and simmer gently for half I an hour longer. Fish gravy must be flavoured judiciouslj- with anchovy or herring brine, soy, and walnut ketchup. Sufficient for a pint and j a haK of gravy. Probable cost, 6d., for the ; flavouring. j Gravy, To Keep. When gi-avy is to be I kept it should be put into earthen pans, freshly j scalded and di-ied. Vegetables should be j strained from it, and if any fat cakes on the i top, it should be left untouched until the gravy j is wanted. It should be boiled up every day in summer, and- every two or three days in winter, I and the pan scalded and dried. It is best left j uncovered, but if a cover is necessary to keep out the dust, it must not be jjut on until the { gravy is quite cold. j Gravy, To Make Mutton like Venison. Let the mutton hang as long as it will keep sweet. The length of time will depend upon the weather. Cut a "high" snipe, or woodcock, into small pieces, being careful first to remove the bag from the entrails, and stew I them gently in a pint and a half of unseasoned j beef or mutton gravy. Strain, and pour it ' boiling hot over the mutton. Time, half an j hour. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for ' eight or ten persons. Gravy, Veal, for White Sauce. Put one pound of lean ham at the bottom of a saucepan, with two pounds of the neck, or the fleshy part of the knuckle of veal, cut into two or three pieces. Cover them with a quarter of a pint of good broth, and boil, rather quickly at first, and afterwards very gently, until the meat begins to glaze. Pierce the meat once or twice with a skewer, and shake the pan frequently to prevent burning. "Vilien the glaze is lightly brown, add, gradually, two pints of good broth; and simmer gently fo two hours. If it is wished to flavour the gravy, an onion and a GRA { 278 ) GRE bunch of i)arsley may be stewed with the broth ; but if it is intended to be put aside for future use. neither vej etables nor seasoning should be added. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gTavy. Gravy,Veal, for White Sauce (ajiother way). Take a knuckle of veal frem which the meat has been taken, and saw it into small pieces. Put these into a stcwpan, with two ounces of undressed lean ham, cut into dice, and two pints of water. Cover the pan closely, and simmer very gently for three hours after the water has once boiled. Strain, and put aside imtil required. A small piece of lemon-rind, with a sprig of parsley and thyme, half a dozen Ijeppercorns, and half a blade of mace, may be stowed with the bones if a flavouring is desired. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gravy. Gravy, White, for Pish. Take one pound of pike, or any other common fish, cut it into small pieces, and put these into a saucepan, with two pints of water, a small bunch of savoury herbs, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, four cloves, four peppercorns, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently for an hour. Strain, and when the gravy is wanted, mix a table- spoonful of floirr, in a clean saucepan, with two ounces of butter. Beat with the back of a wooden spoon imtil the floui- and butter are perfectly smooth, add the liquid gradually, boil altogether for' a quarter of an hour, and serve. Probable cost, about 8d. Sufficient for six or eight jyersons. Gravy, White, Koux for Thickening. Proceed in the usual way for White Gravy, but do not keep the flour and butter sufficiently long on the tire to take any colour. This preparation is used for thickening white sauces. Time, a qucuter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient, a dessert-spoonful of roux will thicken a pint of gravy. Grayling. The grayling is a silverscalod fish, pretty and palatable, found in rivci's in the North of England. It often weighs as much as five pounds, though the more usual weight is from two to three pounds. It should be avoided in April and May, but is excellent in July and August, when trout is going out. It may be either baked or fried ; and in either case should be scaled before it is cooked. Grayling, Baked. Wash, scale, and empty the fish. Dry them ; season them with salt and cayenne, and lay them in a shallow baking-dish, with three or fom- lumps of butter placed on them. Baste them now and then, and put a cover over the pan while they are ceoking. Send them to table with sauce made of the giavy which runs from them, mixed with good melted butter. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, as grayhngs are seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, one moderate-sized fish for two persons. Grayling, Broiled. Wash, scale, and empty the fish ; season them "vvith pepper and salt, dip them in oil, and place them on the gridiron over a clear fire for a few minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with the head and tail together, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. The fish should be small when cooked thus. Probable cost of this fish, uncertain, for the reason stated in the precedingrecipe. Sufficient, a moderate-sized fish for two persons. Grayling, Fried. Scale and clean the fish, opening it ius little as possible. Cut off the fins and gills, but leave the head, and wipe them as dry as possible. Season with pepper and salt, dredge a little fiour over them, and fry them in plenty of hot di-ipping, or lai-d, until lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and send them to table with cris ed parsley in the dish, and melted butter in a tureeri. Time, according to the size, from six to ten minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, the fish being seldom offeied for siile. Sufficient, one modei-ate- sized fish for two poisons. Grayling, Sauce for. Put a tablespoonful of sherry, or any white wine, into a saucepan, with one tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, the juice of half a lemon, a tea-spoonful of powdered herbs, of which two parts shoidd be parsley and one thjTne, an inch of lemonrind, two cloves, six peppercorns, and a shallot finely minced. Shake the pan over the fire for five or six minutes ; strain the gravy, and mix Avith it tlu-ee ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of flour, and a quarter of a pint of cream, or new milk. Simmer gently, stirring all the time, until the sauce is hot, but it must not boil. Probable cast, 6d., if made -with milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Green Bean Pudding. --- Take one pound of old green beans, put them into boilingwater, and boil them until tender. Blanch and pound them, and season them with one tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Add the yolk of an egg-, and two or three table-spoonfuls of c*'eam ; then boil the mi.xture in a buttered basin ; tufn it out before serving, and pour over it some good parsley sauce. It should be served with boiled bacon. Time to boil, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Green Caps. Take six or eight sound young green codlings, scoop out the cores without brealcing the fi-uit, inib the skins with a soft cloth, and place the apples in a preser%-ingpan, with vine-leaves under and above, and a.s much cold water as will cover them. Cover the saucejmn closely, and set it by the side of the fire. Let the apples simmer imtil they are nearly soft, but quite whole. Lift them out as gently as possible, so as not to break them ; drain" and dry them, and rub them with the white of egg, beaten to a firm froth. Sift some pounded loaf sugar over them, and i)iace them side by side on a tin plate in the oven until they sparkle like frost. Put them into a glass dish, pom- a good custard round them, and stick a pretty green sprig ia the top of each apple. Time, altogether, one horn-. Probable cost, about Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. GRE ( 279 ) GBE Green Corn Soup (a Grcrman recipe). Boil one pint of unripe green com in water until suiiiciently tender, then pass through a sieve, and mix it with a quart of nicely-llavoured clear gi-avy soup. Let all boil up together, and tiCTve in a tureen with toiistcd sippets. A few young spinach-leaves may be boiled in the corn to make it a brighter green. Time, hidf an hour, or moi-e. Sufficient for four or five persons. Green Dutch. Sauce. Make half a pint of good bechamel sauce {sec Bechamel). Wash .some young parsley-leaves, and put them, while wet, into a mortar. Pound tliem to a pulp, and squeeze out the juice which comes from them into the Kiuce until it is sufficiently greened. Simmer gently over the fire, and, before serving, add a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. The juice must not be added until the last moment, or the colour of the sauce will be spoilt. Time, a few nainutes to press out the i Liice. Sufficient for haK a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 4d. Green Dutch Sauce (another way) {see Dut :!h Sauci). Greengage Jam. Choose greengages which are fuUy ripe ; weigh them, and allow Ihree-quartere of a pound of sugar to eveiy pound of fruit. Remove the stones and skins, and strew over the plums half of the sugar, pounded and sifted. Let them stand for five or six hom-s. Put them into a preserving-pan, and let them simmer until reduced to pulp ; add the remainder of the sugar, and boil three-quarters of an liour longer. If the moisture does not sufficiently evaporate all plum jams are apt to fei-ment a few minutes before the jam is taken from the fire add a quarter of the kernels, blanched and sliced. I'ut the jam into jars; put oiled paper over them, and cover the tops of the j;u'8 with thin paper, dipped in gum. I'robiible cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a pint and a half of fruit for one pound of jam. Greengage Mould. Take a pint and a half of greengages, fully ripe ; skin, and stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan, with ten ounces of loaf sugar and a quarter of the kernels, blanched and sliced ; boil until reduced to pulp. Dissolve a quai-ter of iin ounce of isinglass, or gelatine, in a little boiling water ; add it to the marmalade, and pour into an oiled mould. Let the fruit remain until firm. When wanted for use, tiun it out on a glass dish. Serve whipped cream or custard round it. Time, an hour and a half to boil the fruit. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, lOd. for the mould. Greengage Pudding. line a butteretl mould with good suet crust. Fill it with greengages, picked and washed ; add a little moist sugar, put a lid of the crust on the top, and fasten the edges securely ; tie the pudding in a fioured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil till done enough. As soon as the pudding is turnod out of the basin, cut a hole in the top, to allow the steam to escape. Serve with sweet sauce. Time, an hour and a haK or two hours, according to the size. Sufficient, a pudding made in a quart mould for half a dozen pei-sons. Probable cost of greengages, 6d. per quart, when in full season. Greengages, Compote of. Boil six ounces of loaf sugar, with one pint of water, for a quai-ter of an hour. Remove the scum as it lises, put in the fruit, and simmer gently for another quarter of an hour-, or until the plums are tender, but unbroken. Care must be taken not to let the plums break, or the aiipearancc of the dish will be spoilt. Lift them out singly v ith a spoon, and put them into a glass dish; let the syrup cool a little, then pom- it o 'cr them. The greengag-es should be eaten cold. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Greengages, Compote of (a German recipe). Take one pint of very ripe greengages, take off the slrins, and put the plums into a glass dish, with half a pound of j oundod loaf sugar strewn over them. In two or three hours sufficient syrup will have been drawn from them. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Greengages, To Bottle. Clioose perfectly sound greengages, gathered on a dry day, before they are fully ripe. Put them into widemouthed bottles, and fill these vith syrup, made by boiling a pint of water with a pound of sugar for foiu- or fi've minutes. Cork securely, and put them up to theii- necks in a large pan of cold water, with straw between the bottles to pre -ent them cracking. Bring the contents of the -pan slowly to a boil ; after boiling, simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; leave them until cold, seal the corks securely, and keep the bottles in a cool place, with the necks downwards. If thei'e is anj- leakage, the fruit must be used at once ; otherwise, it wiU keep for years. Probable cost of gi-eengages, when in full season, 6d. per quart. Greengages, To Brandy.- Choose perfectly sound greengages, not too rii c; weigh them, and allow half a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit. Put the sugar into a pre6er\ingpan, with three table-sijoonfuls of water to every X)und, and when it is dissolved, pour it, boiling, over the frmt. Let the greengages remain for forty-eight houi-s, then boil them very softly till they are clear, but unbroken. Lift them out, singly, with a spoon, and three-parts fill widemouthed bottles with them. Boil the syrup then for five minutes ; mix with it its measui e in good French bi'andy, and, when cool, fill the bottles. Cover them securely, and keep in a cool diy place. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the plums. Probable cost of greengages, when plentiful, 6d. per quart. Greengages, To Candy. Make a sjTup of a pound of sugiu- boiled with half a pint of water. Put the greengages, before they are quite ripe, in this, and boil f( r a few minutes, tin they are tender, but unbroken. Take them out, drain them, and sift pounded loaf sugar over them imtil they look quite white. Put them on dishes in a cool oven, and keep turning them ab? ut, and sifting more sugar over them, until they arc dr}'. Time, about fifteen minuter to boil the fruit. Probable cost of greeng-ages, when plentiful, Gd. per quart. Greengages, to Preserve Dry. Take a pound of greengages, gathered on a dry day, before they are fully ripe. Leave the QBE ( 280 ) GEE stalks untouched. Make a syrup, by boiling together a pound of loaf-sugar with a quarter of a pint of water. Put the fruit into the syrup when boiling, and simmer for ten minutes ; then lift each plum out singly, boil the syrup once more, and pour it over the plums. Repeat this for six days, boiling the plums foirr minutes each day. On the seventh day put the greengages on a sieve, and place them in a cool even to di-y. They should be kept in single rows, in boxes, with a sheet of white paper between each layer of plums. Probable cost of greengages, when plentiful, 6d. per quart. Greengages, To Preserve in Syrup. Proceed exactly as in the last recipe, with the exception of removing the stones before putting the fruit into the sjTup. Boil the fruit for three days eight minutes each day and be careful to skim the syrup well, both before and after the fruit is put in. Blanch and slice a quarter of the kernels on the last day, and put them into the pan. Put the plums into jars, cover them with the hot syrup, and tie them down securely in the usual way. A pound of fruit is enough for a pound jar. Green Icing. Take a handful of young spinach-leaves, wash them thoroughly, and put them, when wet, into a mortar, and bruise them imtil the juice can be squeezed out. Whisk the white of a fresh egg to a firm froth ; add, gradually, a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf sugar, and the juice of half a lemon, with as much of the spinach- juice as will colom- the icing sufficiently. Beat it well, one way, for half an hour, and add a little more sugar, if necessary. vSj read it smoothly, and dry in a cool oven. Probable cost, 3d. Green Indian Corn, or Maize, To Boil. Take a pint of com before it is quite rij o, trim away the husks, and boil quickly, until sufficiently cooked, which will be in about half an hour. Drain, serve on a toast, and send to table as a vegetable, with melted butter, in a tureen. A slice of butter, and a little pepper and salt may be added, if liked. Sufficient for three or four persons. Greening for Soups. Wash a handful of young spinach-leaves, pound them in a mortar, put the bruised leaves into muslin, and .squeeze out as much juice as is required. The soup may be heated, but must not be brought to the boiling point after the juice is added, or the green will be converted into a dirty yellow. Green Mint Sauce. Take some young freshly-gathered leaves of mint, wash and (h-ain them, and chop them as fine as possible. Mi.x a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar with a table- spoonful of chopped mint. Leave it for an hour ; then add two table-si oonf uls of good vinegar. Some persons put two jarts of mint with one of jjarsley. If time is a consideration, the vinegar may be added at once, but the flavour will not be so good. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Green Mint Vinegar. Take some young freshly - gathered mint, pick off the leaves, chop them slightly, and fill wide-necked bottles with them. Pour over them some good French vinegar, and let them infuse for two months or more. Strain through muslin into small bottles, cork securely, and put aside for use. Green Orange Plurn Preserve. Take the fruit before it is ripe, but let it be fully grown. Weigh the plums, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Draw a darning-needle through each plum and make a slit in it, then put the plums into a preserving-pan; stir them constantly, to prevent burning, until the juice flows freely. Take out the stones as they rise to the surface, and, when the plmns are boiled to a pulp, add the sugar, and boil quickly for half an hour. Blanch and pound a quarter of the kernels, and stir them into the jam a fewminutes before it is taken from the fire. Put it into jars, place tissue-paper, dipped in oil, upon the jam, and cover the jar with paper dipped in gum-water. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a pint and a half of fruit to a pound of jam. Green Pea Soup. Boil a quart of fullygrown green peas until tender, di-ain them, put them into thiee pints of good stock or gra-\-y, and simmer gently for half an hour. Eemove the scum as it rises, press the whole through a coarse sieve, and let it boil up once more. Add a lump of sugar, and salt and pepper, if the stock has not been already seasoned. Serve as hot as possible. If it is preferred, half a pint of the peas may be put aside after being boiled, and added to the soup just before it is dished. Add a little spinach- juice, if necessary. If no stock is at hand, some must be made expressly for the soup. Be sparing in the use of herbs and spices, or they may overpower the flavour of the peas. Time, one hour. Probable cost of peas, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for five or six persons. Green Pea Soup (another way). Take a quart of green peas, fully grown, and put them into a saucepan, with two quarts of stock, three lettuces, an onion, four ounces of lean ham, and half a drachm of celery-seed, bruised and tied in muslin, and a small sprig of mint. Boil gently until the peas are soft enough to pulp. Strain the soup, press the vegetables into it through a coarse sieve, add a tea- spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of spinach- j uice if the colour is not good. Serve as hot as possible. Time, one hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock or gravy, 9d. per quart. Sufficieat for five or six persons. Green Pea Soup, Early Spring. An excellent, nicely-flavoured green pea soup may be obtained before peas are to be had by those who grow their own vegetables. Take about four feet of a row of young plants a foot high ; cut them off close to the ground like small salad, and boil the leaves in two quarts of stock until they are quite soft. Press them through a strainer, flavour with salt and a little pepper, and colour with spinach- juice, if necessary. A quarter of an hour before the soup is taken GRE ( 281 ) GRE from the fire thicken it with a small lump of butter, rolled in flour. Time, about one hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Green Pea Soup (maigre, or without meat). Boil half a gallon of water, with a teaspoonful of salt and a tiny piece of soda. Skim it well, and throw into it a quart of fully-grown fresh green peas until they are sufficiently tender, then press all through a sieve. Put the hearts of two lettuces, a handful of young spinach-leaves, a sprig of parsley, and a sprig of mint, all finely shred, and a large onion sliced, into a saucepan, with about a quarter of a pound of butter. Let these ingredients stew gently for half an hour ; strain the butter from them, and pour over them the pulp, &c. Simmer half an hour longer. Just before serving add a pint of young green peas, already cooked. A sliced cucumber is often added to this soup, and is an improvement, but, of course, increases the expense. Season with salt and cayenne, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Green Peas (a la Creme). Boil a pint of newly-shelled, fresh young peas in the usual way. Drain them in a colander until quite dry. ]\Iix an ounce of butter and a tea-spooriful of flour smoothly together, over the fire ; add a quarter of a pint of good, sweet cream ; when it boils, put in the peas for two or three minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, haH an hour, altogether. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons Green Peas (a la Franq'aise). Shell a peck of freshly-gathered young peas, and put the peas into plenty of cold spring water. Add a quarter of a poimd of fresh butter, and work them well with the hand until they stick together. Drain them in a colander, and put them into a saucepan, with a little pepper and salt, and a wine-glassful of water, if necessary, but young peas seldom require water. Let them simmer very gently for forty minutes, or until the peas are tender; add two large lumps of sugar dipped in water, and, when they ha've been taken ofi:' the fire a minute or twe, the yolk of an egg beaten with a dessert-spoonfid of cold water. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Green Peas for Garnish (sec Garnish, Green Peas for). Green Peas, Puree of, for Garnisli {see Garnish, Puree of Green Peas). Green Peas, To Boil. Green peas, when gathered young, shelled just before they are cooked, pnd dressed properly, are amongst the most delicious of vegetables. If they are very unequal in size, they should be shaken through a coarse sieve, and the smaller ones put into the water ten minutes after the large ones. Throw them into plenty of fast-bsiling water, to which a table-spoonful of salt has been added, and keep the pan uncovered until the peas arc tender. Taste them to ascertain when they are sufficiently cooked, di-ain the water from them, and serve as hot as possible. A slice of butter may be put into the middle of the peas, 19 and allowed to dissolve in them. A sprig of mint is often boiled in the water with them ; this is by some considered an improvement, and by others quite the reverse. Great care should be taken not to put much soda with peas. If the water is very hard, a tiny piece may be put in, but too much would quickly reduce them to a pulp. Time, according to the age and size : young green peas, fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per peck, when in full season. Sufficient for three or four persons. Green Peas, To Boil (a German recipe). Put a peck of green peas into a saucepan, with four or five young carrots scraped and cut small. Sprinkle a Little salt and pepper over them, and add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Cover the saucepan closely, and let them cook in the steam. When they begin to shi-ink, cbcdge two or three table-spoonfuls of flour over them, and shake the saucepan well over the fire till thf peas are lightly coated with it. Pour a quarte! of a pint of good gravy on them, and stew until tender. Cutlets may bo partly broiled and steamed with the peas. Time, haK an hour. Probable cost, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for four or five persons. Green Ravigote Sauce. Take one ounce of mixed chervil, one ounce of green tarragon, one oimceof chives, one ounce of bumet, and one ounce of parsley; pick and wash these ingredients, and throw them into boiling salt and water for two minutes. Put them into a cloth, squeeze the water from them, and pound them in a mortar with half a pound of butter ; mix them thoroughly, and put aside for use. When wanted, stir one ounce of the mixture into a pint of good bechamel or melted butter ; add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and serve. If the sauce is not sufficiently greened with the herbs, add a little spinach- juice. Probable cost of tiiickening, Is. per pound. Green Sauce, for Ducks and Young Geese. Put half a pint of green gooseberries into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of cold water, and three or four lumps of suga" Let them simmer gently imtil quite soft ana broken ; then press them through a sieve, and return the pulp to the pan, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, four table-spoonfuls of sorrel-juice, made by pounding sorrel-leaves in a mortar, and squeezing the pulp in muslin till the juice runs out. Simmer for a minute or two, then add a glass of sheny or Madeira, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Greens (a la Creme). Wash and boil two young cabbages in the usual way; presa them between two plates to drain the water from them. Roll a lump of butter the size of an egg in some flour ; stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth, but not in the least coloured. Add, gradually, a quarter of a pint of cream, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Simmer for ten minutes, and serve poured over the cabbages. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil the cabbages. GRE ( 282 ) GRO Probable cost, Is. Sd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Greens, Stewed. Take a bunch of fresh greens, wash in several waters, and cut them into thin shreds. Drain them well, and throw them into plenty of fast-boiling water, salted and skimmed. AVhen they are tender, take them up, press the water from them, and put them into a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of good gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pejDper. Stew gently for half an hour, and serve with mutton, lamb, or veal cutlets. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the cabbage. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for four persons. Greens. Turnip, Boiled. Put two table-spoonfuls of salt into a gallon of water : let it boil quickly, and remove the scum. Wash the greens in three or four waters ; remove the decayed outer leaves, and throw them into the water. Leave the saucepan uncovered, and boil the greens rapidly untU tender. Drain the water well from them, and serve. If the water be very hard, a tiny piece of soda may be added, but care must be taken that it is tiny. If plenty of water is not allowed, tiunip-greens will be bitter. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per bimch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Grey Mullet. The grey mullet is a small fish, seasonable during the heat of summer, and caught at the mouths of livers, and some way up them. It is generally considered inferior to the red mullet. It should be eaten quite fresh, and may be cooked in any of the ways directed 'or mackerel, which see. Grey miillet is seldom offered for sale. Griddle Cakes {see American Breakfast (or Griddle) Cakes). Griddle Cake, Indian {see Indian Griddle Cake). Griddle Cake, Irish {see Irish Griddle Cake). Grills, Gravy for {see Gravy for Grills and Broils) . Grilse or Trout, To Pot. Take half a dozen fish ; remove the bones, cut ofiE the heads, tails, and fins, wash, and wipe them very dry. Pound in a mortar half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, half an inch of whole ginger, four cloves, four allspice, and two chilies ; mix these thoroughly. Put aU in a bag, and place it on the fish, which must be laid in a pie-dish, backs uppermost. Strew a dessert-spoonful of salt over them, and pour on them throe-quarters of a pound of clarified butter. Tie three or four folds of i aper over the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly two hours. "When cold, remove the bag, put the fish into a fresh jar, and pour clarified butter over them. Probable cost, vmcei-tain, the fish being seldom offered for sale. Groats, Gruel of {see Gruel of Embden Groats, and also Ciruel of Patent Groats). Groaeilles. Sirop de. Bruise two or three pounds of red currants, and leave them in a jar until the next day. Pour off the juice, and boil it gently, vith one pound of pounded loaf sugar to everj' pint of juice. Skim carefully, and bottle for use. A nice variation is made by putting one part of raspberries to two of red currants. This syrup is useful for flavouring jeUies, or, if mixed with water, it makes a refreshing summer beverage. Time to boil the juice, a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost of currants, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Ground Rice Clieeseeakes, Mix a table-spoonful of groimd rice smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of milk, and pour in a quarter of a pint of boiling milk. Stir the mixture over the fire for three or four minutes, tiU it thickens, adding first, one ounce of butter and four large lumps of sugar, which have been well rubbed on the rind of a fresh lemon. When cold, stir in the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, and a dessert-siDOonful of lemonjuice. Line some patty-pans with a good crust, or puff paste, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. The cheesecakes may be dusted over with powdered cinnamon, or grated lemon-rind, before being baked. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for eight or ten cheesecakes. Ground Riee Cheesecakes, Plain. Mix two ?imecs of ground rice smoothly with a httle cold milk, and poiu- on it a pint of boiling milk. Put it into a saucepan, with one ovmce of butter, a tiny pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon, and a little sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire for five or six minutes, until it thickens, then pour into a basin, and when cold add two well-beaten eggs. Line some pattypans with a good crust, thi-ee-parts fill them with the mixture, strew a few currants over, and bake in a quick oven for about twentj minutes. Probable cost, Gd. Sufficient for about two dozen cheesecakes. Ground Rice Cup Puddings. ]Mix two oimces of ground rice very smoothly with a little cold milk. Add half a pint of boiling millf, in which the rind of a lemon has been boiled, a lump of butter the size of an eg;g, and sugar to taste. Stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens, and when cold add three eggs, well beaten. Beat thoroughly for some minutes, then pour into buttered cups, or small moulds, and bake in a quick oven. Serve the puddings as soon as they are taken from the oven, first turning them out on a dish. Wine, or sweet sauce, may be sent to table with them. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ground Rice Omelet. Boil half an inch of stick cinnamon with half a pint of milk, and stir into it, when boiling, two tablespoonfuls of ground rice, which have been smoothly mixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold milk. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and stir the mixture briskly. Pour it out, remove the cinnamon, and when cold add four eggs, well beaten, and sugar to taste. Beat the mixture for five or six minutes. Divide it into three pai-ts; then fry these in butter, until brightly browned. A piece of butter, the size of GRO ( 283 ) GRO a walnut, will te required for each. Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Ground Rice Pudding. Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, with half an inch of stick cinnamon, or the thin rind of a lemon, or two lam'el-lcaves. Let it remain by the side of the fire till the flavour of the cinnamon, lemon, or laurel, is drawn out, then boil and strain. Mlx with the milk two ounces of ground rice, moistened with a little cold milk, and stir over the fire till thick. Pour out, and, when cool, add two eggs, slightly beaten, and if liked half a wine-glassful of brandy. Bake in a well-buttered pie-dish, in a moderate oven. If baked too quickly, the pudding wiU be waterj-. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ground Rice Pudding, Rich. IMix two ounces of ground rice smoothly with four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Add half a pint of new milk, which has been boiled, with an inch of cinnamon, or the rind of a lemon. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens, and add two oimces of fresh butter, two ounces of sugar, and a tiny pinch of salt. Pour the pudding into a basin, and when cold, mix with it the yolks of three and the white of one egg, and a wine-glassful of sherry, or half a wineglassful of brandy. Put some apricot, or any other good jam, at the bottom of a buttered piecUsh, cover with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Sift a little pounded cinnamon, or pounded sugar, over the pudding before serving. This pudding may be eaten either hot or cold. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the jam and wine. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Ground Rice Souffle. lix three ounces of ground rice smoothly with half a pint of new milk or cream. Put them into a saucepan, with, two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a pinch of salt, and the thin rind of a lemon, half an inch of cinnamon, or any flavouring that may bo preferred. Stir quickly over the fire until the milk boils, pour it into a basin, and when cool, add the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. Butter a plain mould and it is well to tie round it a band of white paper, also well buttered, which should be a good (leal higher than the mould itseH, so that if the batter rises much in the oven, it may not fall over the sides. Whisk the whites of five eggs to a firm froth, and add them the last thing. Beat the mixtxrre fully ten minutes after the whites are added. Bake in a quick oven, and serv e as soon as the dish is taken from it. Have a hot napkin ready to pin round the dish in which the souffle was baked, and let a heatod salamander, or red-hot shovel, be held over it, in its passage from the Icitchen to the dining-room. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is., if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. Grouse. Grouse abound on the moors of Scotland and the North of England, and are shot during the months of August, September, and October. The 12th of August is the time fixed by law for the commencement of the sport, so that any birds used before that time are illegally obtained. Grouse should be allowed to hang as long as possible, the peculiar flavour for which it is so much valued being wanting if the bird is cooked too soon, .(ifter being plucked and drawn, it should be wiped, but not washed, and trussed like a fowl, without the head ; though many cooks still twist the head under the wing. Grouse (a I'Ecossaise). When the birds are plucked and drawn, put three ounces of butter inside each, but not in the crop ; put them down to a clear fire, and baste plentifully. Lay a sHce of toast in the pan under them a few minutes before taking the birds from the fire. Parboil the liver, pound it in a mortar, with a little butter, salt, and cayenne, and spread it on the toast instead of butter only. Time, about half an hour to roast the grouse. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient, a brace for five or six persons. Grouse (a la Financiere). Boil the livers of the gTouse for ten minutes, and pound them in a mortar, with three ounces of butter, a shallot, finely nynced, half a salt-spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, two or three gxates of nutmeg, one table-spoonful of bread-crumbs, and four mushrooms. Stuff the grouse with. this forcemeat, truss and roast, and baste them liberally. Put half a pint of good brown, sauce {see Gravy, Espagnole) into a stewpan. Add a quarter of a pint of stewed mushrooms, and a pinch of cayenne. Let all boil up together, and serve with the grouse. Time to roast the grouse, from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. the brace. Sufficient for four or five persons. Grouse, Carving of. Grouse is carved in the same way as a partridge {see Partridge, Carving of ) . The breast and wings are considered the most dainty morsels. Grouse Cutlets. Take a brace of young grouse, split them in halves, remove the wingbones, and tuck the legs inside. Season them with pepper and salt, and fry them in a little hot butter till brightly browned on both sides. Dredge a little flour into the butter; add. gradually a quarter of a pint of gravy espagnole {see Gravy Espagnole), season rather highly with salt and cayenne, simmer for ten minutes and serve with the gravy poured over the grouse. Time, fiy till brown. Probable cost of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace of birds for four or five persons. Grouse, or Woodcock, Marinaded (a German recipe) . Hang the birds as long as possible. Pluck, draw, and wipe them dry with, a soft cloth, and lay them in a marinade, made as follows : Mince an onion, and put it in a quarter of a pint of vinegar, add a dozen peppercorns, twenty jimiper-berries, and three bayleaves. Let the grouse remain in this three days, turning them three times a day, and basting them frequently. Stuff them with turkey forcemeat, and lard the breasts with strips of fat bacon. Put them down to a clear fire, baste frequently, and serve with slices of GRO (284) GRO lemon round the dish. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace for four or five persons. Grouse Pie. Line the edges of a piedish with a good crust. Put a pound of rmnpsteak, which has been cut into convenient-sized pieces, at the bottom, and lay a couple of grouse on these. If the birds are large, they should be cut into joints ; if small, they may be put in whole, or in halves. Season rather highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper, and pour a quarter of a pint of nicely-flavoured broth over the grouse. Cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. If the pie is to be eaten hot, a little more boiling gravy, to which has been added a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and two of claret, may be poured in before serving. Time to bake, an hour, or rather less. Probable cost of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. a brace. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Grouse Pie (Scotch fashion). In Scotland grouse and steak is often prepared and fried in cutlets [see Grouse Cutlets), and then made into a pie, as in the last recipe. A few stewed mushi-ooms and hard-boiled eggs are an improvement. When the grouse is partially cooked in this way, care must be taken that the pie does not bake too long. Time, &c., according to the size. Grouse, Quenelles of [see Quenelles of Grouse) . Grouse, Roast. Pluck the birds delicately, being careful not to tear the skin. Draw them, and wipe with a soft cloth, but do not wash them. Cut off the heads, and truss them like fowls. Put them down to a clear fire, and baste them almost unceasingly. About ton minutes before they are taken up, butter a slice of toast, half an inch thick, lay it in the pan under them, and serve the bird upon this. Send bro vn sauce and bread sauce to table with them, and browned bread-crumbs on a dish {see Crumbs, Browned). The gravy ?should be slightly flavoured, or it will overpower that of the bird. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, a brace for four or five persons. Grouse Salad. Eoast a grouse, and cut it into neat joints. Put these in a pie-dish, strew a little salt and pepper over them, and pour on them the juice of a lemon and two table-spoonfuls of liucca-oil. Let them remain for three or four hoirrs, tm-ning and basting them frequently. Wash and dry thoroughly some fresh lettuce. This should be done some hours before the salad is wanted. The leaves should be well shaken, placed in an unpainted ; wire basket, and hung in a cool, airy place, so that they may be perfectly dried. A salad can never be a success if there is any water hani;ing about it. Shred the lettuce finely, and i place a deep bed of it at the bottom of the dish ; arrange the pieces of grouse neatly upon it, and ornament the top with slices of hard-boiled egg, sprigs of parsley, and, if liked, a little savoury jelly. Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin, beat them for three or four minutes, and add haK a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Add oil and vinegar (tarragon vinegar is the best) until the sauce is the desired thickness, allowing six tea-spoonfuls of oil to every one of vinegar. Begin with the oil, and pour it in two or three drops at a time for the first two tea-spoonfuls. Mix with a wooden spoon. If properly made, the sauce wiU be thick and smooth, like cream. Just before the salad is served, pour this sauce over the grouse, and amongst the lettuce. Put a border of curled celery round the dish, and beyond that slices of hard-boiled egg, and clear savoury jelly, cut into rough dice. Time, half an horn- to roast the grouse. Probable cost, exclusive of the grouse, about 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Grouse Salad (a la Soyer). It is said, that on one occasion, when several gentlemen had betted largely on the abilities of certain chefs de cuisine, JI. Soyer was imiversally acknowledged to have won the palm in consequence of the superiority of a salad, made very much like the following : Lay a thin border of butter, about half an inch from the edge of the dish on which the salad is to be served. Put inside this, and on the bottom of the dish, a deep bed of finely-shred lettuce, prepared as in the last recipe. Ai-range over this, very neatly, the joints of a brace of grouse, rather underdressed than otherwise. Make a dressing, by mixing together two table-spoonfuls of finelyminced shallots, two of chopped tarragon and chervil, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pei:)per, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. Add gradually, at first a few drops at a time, twelve table-spoonfuls of oil, and four of Chili vinegar, putting one of vinegar after every three of oil, and beat with a wooden spoon until the sauce is smooth and of the proper consistence. Keep it in a cool place, or on ice, if possible, until wanted. To garnish the dish, take half a dozen hard-boiled eggs; cut them in four, lengthwise, and take a little piece off the end, to make them stand upright ; stick them on the butter round the salad, the yellow part outwards, with gherkins and beetroot cut into slices, and stamped into shapes between the pieces of egg. Pour the sauce over the di-essing, and serve. Time, half an hour to roast the grouse. Probable cost, exclusive of the grouse, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Grouse, Salmi of. Pick and draw a brace of grouse. Roast them for twenty minutes before a clear fire. Take them up, and, when cold, carve them into neat joints. Take off the skin and trimmings, chop them small, and put them into a saucepan with two bayleaves, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a sliced shaUot, and two table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Fry until lightly browned, then add a pint of good bro'svn rauce, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain the gravy, skim off the fat, and add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a little salt and cayenne, and a glass of sherry. Put in the grouse, and let them remain until quite hot, but on no account let them boil. Put the grouse in the centre of a hot dish, boil up the gravy, pour it round them, and garnish gbo ( 285 ) GUA ?with fried sippets. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the grouse and wine. Sufficient for sbc or seven persons. Grouse Soup. Roast a brace of grouse for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes; then cut oif the breast and the best of the meat, and lay it aside. Pound the rest of the meat in a mortar, and fry it in a little butter with thi-ee ounces of undi-essed lean ham, cut into dice, a chopped carrot and onion, a bayleaf, and a sprig of thyme and parsley. When lightly browned, add two quarts of good stock and the bones of the grouse. Stew gently for an hour, skimming carefully to remove the fat, then strain the soup, and add to it a tablespoonful of salt, a drachm of cayenne, two blades of mace, pounded, and a little bro vn thickening {see Gravy, Bro vn, Eoux) . Simmer half an hour longer. A few minutes before serving, put in the breasts, &c., of the grouse, cut into slices, and a glass of claret. Make the soup hot once more, and serve. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the grouse and wine. Grouse Soup (another way). Take a brace of grouse, or any other game, cut them into neat joints, andfry them inbuttertill lightly browTied, then put them into two quarts of good unseasoned stock, with half a drachm of bruised celery-seed, or the outer sticks of two heads of celery, three onions, with two or three cloves stuck in them, and a table-spoonful of ground rice, smoothly mixed with a little cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil, then simmer gently, and about twenty minutes before the soup is taken off add a fresh young cabbage, quartered. Simmer gently till the game is tender. Season with a dessert-spoonful of salt and a drachm of cayenne. A little mushroom-ketchup and a wine-glassful of claret may be added, if liked. Time, ten minutes to fry the grouse ; simmer the game until tender. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Grouse, To Hash. Take the remains of cold grouse, and cut them into neat joints. Put the skins, bones, and trimmings into a saucepan with two shallots, sliced, and three ounces of butter rolled thickly in flour. Shake the pan over the fire until the butter is melted and lightly browned, then add half a pint of stock, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a blade of mace, pounded. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently for an hour. Strain the gravj-, and return it to the saucepan -wdth a glass of claret. Let it boil up, then put in the pieces of grouse, and when these are quite hot, serve immediately, with toasted sippets round the dish. The gravy must not boil after the grouse is put in. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the grouse and wine. Sufficient for three or four persons. Grouse, To Pot. When grouse has to be preservecl for sending to a distance, or for any other purpose, it maybe potted. In this condition it '?'ill remain good for three or four weeks, and is very highly esteemed amongst epicures. Prepare the birds, as if for roasting. Season them rather highly, and put inside each two ounces of butter. "Lay them closely in a pie-dish, and place small lumps of butter here and there upon them. Pom- wine over them, port or claret is the most suitable, and a smaU tumblerful should be allowed for each brace. Tie two or three folds of paper over the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. When cold, drain, and diy the birds, put them singly, breast upwards, into small pots, and cover with clarified butter. Sufficient, one brace for four or five persons. Gruel, Barley. Wash a quarter of a pound of pearl barley in two or three waters. Put it into a saucepan with four pints of water, and half an inch of stick cinnamon. Simmer gently, until the liquid is reduced one-half ; then strain, and return it to the saucepan, with two large lumps of sugar, and two wine-glassfuls of port. Keep it in a cool place, and heat it as required. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for two pints and a half of gruel. Gruel, Barley (another way). Excellent barley gruel can be quickly made if the j repared barley be used, which is sold at all the grocers'. Mix a table-spoonful smootlily with a little cold water, stir it into one pint of boiling water, and simmer gently for twenty minutes or more. Season and flavour as desired. Probable' cost, Id. Sufficient for a pint of gruel. Gruel, Barley (another way). &, Gruel. Barley Gruel, Oatmeal. Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal with two of cold water. Stir it into a pint of boiling water, and in a quarter of an hour strain off for use. Season and flavourit according to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Id. Sufficient for a pint of gruel. Gruel of Embden Groats (for infants). Put a quarter of -a pint of Embden groats into three pints of cold water, and, when smooth, boil it gently for two hours or more, until the liquid is as thick as required. Stir it frequently. Strain and sweeten according to taste. The same groats may be boiled twice. A little cream or milk is often added before using. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gruel. Gruel of Patent Groats. Mix a tablespoonful of patent groats smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cold water. Pour in a pint of boihng water, and stir for ten minutes, or more, over the fire. Sweeten and season, if desired. No straining is needed. A small liunp of butter boiled with the gruel is an improvement, but in this, as well as the seasoning and flavouring, the taste of the invaHd should be consulted. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. C" Guard's Cup. Mix half a pint of sherry and half a bottle of perry with a bottle of cider. Add half a pint of brandy, a pint of rum-shrub, and half a gallon of water. Just before using, pour in a bottle of champagne, and place on the top a sprig of borage. This cup is very good, though not so good, without the champagne. GITA ( 283 ) GUI Guava Jelly, Imitation of. Take a gallon of large bullaces, draw a darning-needle tlirougli each one, to make a slit in it, and put them into deep earthen jars, mixing with them two pounds of red plums the Imperatrice plum is the most suitable. Place the jars in a saucepan, thiee-parts filled with water, and simmer very gently for a couple of hours, or until the juice flows freely. Pour it from the plums, pass it through a jelly-bag two or three times to clear it, and weigh it. Boil it quickljfor twenty minutes, then add thi-ee pounds of sugar to four pounds of juice. Boil again, skimming carefully, until the jolly will set when a little is poured on a plate. This will be in about twelve minutes. Pour the jelly into small jars, lay a piece of oiled paper on each, and cover closely with bladder, or thin paper dipped in gum-water. The plums should not be left too dry. They can then be boiled with a little sugar, to " make common jam. Sufficient, a pound and a half of plums will yield, on an average one pound of juice. Gudgeon, The. The gudgeon is a small, but nicely-flavoui-cd fresh-water fish, chiefly used as a garnish. It is in season from Midsummer to the end of November. Gudgeon, Fried. Cleanse the fish thoroughly, take out the inside, and remove the gills, but do not scrape off the scales. Wipe them dry with a soft cloth, dip them in a and broad-crumbs, and fry them in hot butter or lard till nicely bro\vned. Time, about four minutes to fry. Probable cost, uncertain, as the gudgeon is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, about four for one person. Guernsey Buns. Rub four ounces of butter into one pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt and two table-spoonfuls of yeast, wnth as much milk as will form a dough. Let it rise. Divide it into buns about the size of an a . Place these on buttered tins, three inches apart, and put them in a warm place. When they have risen to twice their original size, bake them in a quick oven. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, a halfpenny each. Sufiicient for eight or nine buns. Guernsey Cake. Rub six ounces of butter to a cream, and work into it four ounces of flour and two ounces of ground rice ; add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of finelysifted loaf sugar, an ounce of candied lemon, finely minced, two ounces of dried cherries, and one ounce of angelica, chopped small. When those ingredients are thoroughly blended, add the yolks of four eggs, well beaten, four drops of almond essence, and a table-spoonfid of brandy. Line a cake-tin -ndth oiled paper, and when everything is prepared, add the whites of two eggs, whisked to a firm froth. Beat all together for fully ten minutes, pour into the mould, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a two-pound tin. Guernsey Pudding. Boil three ounces of rice in a pint of new milk, with an inch of cinnamon, the thin rind of a lemon, and three cloves, tUl it can be beaten to a pulp. Sweeten it, take out the spices and lemon-rind, and mix with it some apple marmalade, made by boding six large apples, peeled and quartered, with f oiutable- spoonfuls of sherry. Vhen cool, mix the apples with the rice, sweeten according to taste, and add the whites of five eggs, wliiskod to a finn froth. Beat altogether for ten minutes, pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for an hour and a quarter. Make a pint of custard with the yolks of the eggs, and send it to table cold with the pudding. Probable cost, Is. 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Guinea-fowl, The. The flesh of the guinea-fowl is excellent, being both savoury GUINEA FOWL. and digestible ; and, as it is in season when game is out namely, from February to June it forms a convenient substitute. When well kept, it is not unlike the pheasant in taste and appearance. Guinea-fowl Soup. Take the remains of a cold roasted guinea-fowl. Pick off all the meat, and put the bones, skin, trimmings, and forcemeat into a saucepan, with two quarts of stock, a slice of undressed lean ham, an onion, and haK a drachm of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, or the outer sticks of celery, preserved for fla -ouring. Simmer gently for two hours. Pound the meat in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Strain the soup, and return it to the saucepan. Add the pounded meat, and a heaped table-spoonful of ground rice, mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Boil twenty minutes longer, and serve with toasted sippets sent to table with the soup. Probable cost, 4s., exclusive of the stock and meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Guinea-fowl, To Roast. When the guinea-fowl is larded, it should be trussed like a pheasant, otherwise it should be trussed like a young turkey, with the head left on. FiU it with a good forcemeat, put it down to a clear fire, and baste it constantly, or the flesh will be dry. A few minutes before it is taken up, dredge a little flour over, and froth it nicely. Send brown gra 'y and bread-sauce to table with the bird. Time, an hour, or o. little more. Sufficient for four or five persons. GUR (287) HAD Giirnet, or Gurnard, Baked. The giumet is a iiiccly-liaYOui-ecl fish, with, liiiii ?white flesh, of an agreeable flavour. The head is very large, compared with the rest of the hody. The most usual way of dressing it is to stuii' and bake it. Clean it thoroughly, and cut off the gills. Fill it with a good veal forcemeat, sew up the body, and fasten the tail securely into the mouth of the fish. Butter a pie-dish, put in the fish, cover it with slices of bacon, and bake in a quick oven for half an hoiu- or more. Serve with anchovy or parsley sauce. Suflicient, a moderate-sized fish for three persons. Probable cost, uncertain. GTirnet, Boiled. Empty and cleanse the fish thoroughly. Cut off the fins and gills, and boil it gently in salted water. Serve on a napkin, garnish the dish with parsley, and send plain melted butter, or anchovy, parsley, crab, or piquant sauce to table with it. Time, about half an horn-. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, a moderate-sized gm-net for three persons. Gurnet, Fillets of. Eun the edge of a knife along the side of the spine, lift the flesh from the bone, and having thus removed the fillets, cut them into neat pieces, rub some flour over them, clip them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs. Fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them on a cloth, to free them from grease, and dish them neatly. Send any of the fish sauces to table in a tureen. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, uncertain. Suflicient, a moderate sized gurnet for three persons. H Hacbee Sauce. Mince very finely half a dozen button - mushrooms, already stewed. Mix with them a tea-spoonful of boiled parsley, and two large pickled gherkins, chopped small ; add pepper, salt, and a table-spoonful of lemonjuice. Warm all over the fire for a minute or two, with two table-spoonfuls of good brown gravy. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or three person.:. Haddock, The. The haddock is a fish which is deservedly much esteemed, the flesh being firm, rich, and delicate in flavour, besides which it is cheap and plentiful. It seldom weighs more than thi-oc or foui- pounds, and tho largest fish is considered the best. It should be gutted as soon as possible, and c little salt put into the body, which should then be hung up to dry. Haddocks are in season from Jxine to January. Haddock, Baked. Clean the fish, scrape the scales off, and fill it with a good veal forcemeat. Sew up the opening with a little strong tkread, and put it into a pie-dish, with about two ounces of butter, broken into small pieces, here and there. Lift the fish carefully on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. It is an improvement to rub the haddock over with beaten egg, and sprinkle it with breadcrumbs, before baking. Send melted butter and anchovy sauce to table in a tureen. Time, a moderate-sized haddock, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. or more. Sufficient for three or four persons. Haddock, Baked (another way). Clean the fish, scrape off the scales, and fill it with a forcemeat made by chopping the liver, and mixing with it four table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, a teaspoenful of finely-minced lemon-rind, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a qua-rter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Bind it together with the yolk of an egg, and sew the opening in the fish secm-ely with thread. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped onion and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over them an ounce of oil or clarified butter. Season the haddock with pepper and salt, and lay it on the minced herbs. Put the same quantity of onion and parsley over as under it, and pour on it a quarter of a pint of ale, stock, or water. Place three or four lumps of butter here and there on the fish, put a cover on the dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve the haddock in its own sauce. Time, a mediumsized haddock, twenty minutes or haK an hour. Probable cost, lOd. and upwards. Sufficient for three or four persons. Haddock, Baked (another way). Wash the fish, scrape oft' the scales, and in emptying it, open it as little as possible. Sprinkle a little salt, and squeeze the juice of a large lemon upon it ; let it stand two or three hours, turning it over once or twice during the time. lix the finely-minced rind of half a lemon with two ounces of grated bread-crumbs, add half a salt-spoonful of salt, haK a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a quarter of a small nutmeg. Wipe the fish quite dry, brush it over with beaten egg, and strew the seasoned crumbs upon it. Put it on a wire drainer in a dish, pour on it four ounces of clarified butter, and bake it in a moderate oven. Baste it two or three times during the process. Send the gravy from tho fish to table with it. Time, from twenty minutes to half an horn- to bake a moderate-sized fish. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost of haddock, 9d. and. upwards. Haddock, Baked (another way). Clean and scale the haddock, wipe it very drj% and fill it with a good veal forcemeat. Sew up the slit securely with strong thread, dredge a little HAD ( 288 ) HAD flour and a pinch, of salt over it, and put about two ounces of butter, broken into small pieces, here and there in the dish. Bake it in a moderate oven. Mince, very finely, two large gherkins, a table-spoonful of capers, and three shallots; add half a salt-spooiiful of pepper, and put these ingredients into a saucepan, with half a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer gently for five minutes, then add a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Lift the haddock carefully into a hot dish, garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes or half an hour to bake a moderate-sized haddock. Probable cost, 9d. and upwards. Sufficient for three or four persons. Haddock, Baked, Gravy for {see Gravy for Haddock, Baked) . Haddock, Boiled. Wash the fish thoroughly, scrape off the scales, empty it, wipe the inside, and fasten the tail in the mouth with a skewer. Put two ounces of salt into half a gallon of water, and, when it is dissolved, put in the fish. Bring the water quickly to a boil, remove the scum carefully, then simmer gently until the ej'es of the fish start and the flesh leaves the bone easily. Take it up as soon as it is sufficiently cooked, or it will be hard and tasteless. Serve it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and send melted butter and anchovy sauce to table in a tureen. Time, according to the size a haddock weighing three pounds will require about ten minutes after the water boils. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost of haddock, from 9d. upwards. Haddock, Boiled, with Egg Sauce. Shred two ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it four oimces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, and a shallot, finely minced ; add a little pepper and salt, and a grate or two of nutmeg, and work all together with a raw egg. Fill the haddock with this stuffing, sew it up with strong thread, truss it in the shape of the letter S, and boil it in salt and water. When done, take it up, drain, and serve garnished with parsley. Boil two eggs for seven minutes. When cold, powder the yolks, and mix them with half a pint of good melted butter. Add the whites, cut up into small dice, boil up once, and serve in a tureen. Time to boil a good-sized haddock, half an hour. Probable cost, variable, about 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a haddock weighing two pounds for three or four persons. Haddock, Broiled. Draw and clean the fish, and wipe it perfectly dry. Dip it in oil or clarified butter, di-edge some flour over it, and broil it over a clear fire on a gridiron. Turn it two or three times, and when it is browned on both sides, serve it on a napkin, and send shrimp, or anchovy sauce to table with it. Time, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 9d. and upwards. Sufficient for two or three persons. Haddock, Broiled (another way). An easier way of broiling haddock is to partially cook it in a Dutch oven' before a clear fire, and when the skin rises brush it over with egg, strew bread-crumbs, di-edge flour on it, and broU it as before. When browned it is done enough. Put a small lump of butter on the fish once or twice during the operation. It is more easily kejDt whole when cooked in this way. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. and upwards. Sufficient for two or three persons. Haddock, Cold. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, and when melted add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-si)oonful of pepper, one or two grates of nutmeg, and three-quarters of a pint of new milk or cream. When these are quite hot, add the cold haddock, which has been lifted from the bones in neat pieces and freed from skin, and eight or a dozen oysters, chopped small. When on the point of boiling turn the whole on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets of bread. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 3s., if made with milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. Haddock, Cold, Curry of. Pick the meat carefully from the bones in neat pieces, and remove the skin. For a pound of meat put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan ; when melted put with it two finely-minced onions, turn them about till they are lightly browned, then pour over them a pint of good, nicely-flavoured stock. Put in any bones or trimmings of meat that you may have, and simmer gently for half an hour ; then strain the gravy, and add a table- spoonful of flour and a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Boil I again for twenty minutes, and skim carefully. ! Put in the flsh, with a little salt and pepper, if I required, and when quite hot serve on a hot I dish, with a border of well-boiled rice round it. I Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. I Sufficient for three or four persons. Haddock, Curried. Clean and skin the fish, and lift the flesh from the bones, then divide it into pieces about three inches long and one inch wide. For a fish three pounds in weight put a pint and a half of good, nicelyflavoured stock into a saucepan, and thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder and a tea-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of the .gravy. Mince two onions verj' finely, and put them into the soup. Add a quarter of a pint of cream or new mUk. Flour the pieces of fish, and fry them in hot lard or dripping till they are brightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and put them into the gra\"y. Simmer gently for eight or ten minutes, skim the sauce, put the fish into the middie of the dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Time, one hour. Probable cost of haddock, 9d. or upwards. Sufficient for four or five persons. Haddock, Fillets of. Divide the flesh from the bone b) running the edge of the knife along the side of the spine, and take off the skin. Dip the fillets in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and then fry them in hot lard or dripping. When browned on both sides drain from the fat, and serve them on a hot HAD ( 289 ) HAD dish. Take a table-spoonful of mushrooms, chopped small, a table-spoonful of finely-minced shallots, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Put these into a stewpan with a quarter ot a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer for a quarter of an hour, and serve in a tui-een. Time, ten minutes to fi-y. Probable cost of haddocks, 9d. each and upwards. Sufficient, one moderatesized haddock for three persons. Haddock, Finnan. The Fiiman or Findleom haddock is so named from the village of Findleom, about six miles from Aberdeen, where they are prepared in large quantities. They may be imitated with tolerable success as follows : Clean a haddock thoroughly, cut oif the head, split the fish open, and lay it in salt for two hours. Wet it with pyroligneous acid, and hang it in a dry place for two or thi-ee days. The acid will impart the proper smoky flavour. Time, two hours to lie in salt. Probable cost, 9d. or lOd. each. Haddock, Finnan [see also Findon or Finnan Haddocks). Haddock, Finnan, To Broil. Heat the haddock gradually, either over or before a clear fire, turning it occasionally, till it is quite hot. Kub a little butter over it before sending it to table. If very salt, it should be soaked in water for an hour before it is wanted. Time, eight or ten minutes. Probable cost, od. or 6d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Haddock, Finnan, To Prepare. Cut a moderate-sized Firnan haddock into four or five pieces, wash and drain them well, and put them into a dish with a closely-fitting lid ; pomboiling water over them, place the lid on to prevent the steam escaping, and let them soak for ten minutes. Take them out, rub a little butter over them, place them on a hot dish, and. serve immediately. A bunch of savoury herbs may be put into the basin with the fish. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Haddock, Fried. "Wash and scale the fish. Diy it well, cut off the head and tail, and divide it into three or four pieces. Take out thcbackbone, dip the slices in beaten egg, and afterwards strew bread-crumbs thickly over them. Fry them in boiling lard or dripping till they are brightly browned, drain, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and send shrimp or anchovj' sauce to table with the fish. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost of haddocks, 9d. each and upwards. Sufficient, one moderate-sized fish for three or four persons. Haddock, Pickled. Mix a table-spoonf?l of salt with half a table-si oonful of pepper and a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Take four good-sized haddocks, wash and scale them, di\-ide them into slices an inch thick, and put them at the bottom of a deep bakingdish, in layers, with the seasoning and four finely-minced onions, strewn over each layer. Pour over all two pints of vinegar and one pint of water. Laj' two or three bay-leaves at the top, cover the dish closely, and bake in a moderate; oven. Let the haddocks get cold, then pour over them some melted lard or clarified butter. Keep the air from them, and they will remain good some time. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, 9d. each or upwards. Haddock, BechaufFe of. Lift the meat from the bones in neat piec(;s, remove the skin, and put them into a baking-dish. Season them with a little pepper and salt, and pouiover them some good melted butter, flavoured with the essence of anchovy. Allow a quarter of a pint of melted butter to every pound of meat. Grate some bread-crumbs on the top, and put little bits of butter here and there. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish, with pickled walnuts as an accompaniment. Time, to bake about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for two persons. Haddock, Rechauffe of (another way). Take the remains of cold haddock, remove the skin and bone, and divide into flakes. Slix thoroughly a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shallots, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. " Put the flakes of fish into a baldngdish, sprinkle the powder over them, and pour on three table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Grate bread-crumbs thickly over, and bake in a moderate oven. Brown the top, if necessaiy, by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander over it, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over before serving. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold fish. One pound of fish is sufficient for two or three persons. Haddock Soup. Take three haddocks, fillet them, and put the skins, heads, tails, bones, and fins, into a saucepan, with two quarts of stock, a bunch of parsley, two or three onions, and half a dozen peppercorns, and let them simmer gently for an hour and a half. Strain the soup. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add two ounces of lean ham, cut into dice, let them remain until brown, then mix in, very smoothly, two table-spoonfuls of flour. When this is brown, add, very gradually, the strained soup, and simmer for a quarter of an hour. Put in the pieces of fish, and, when they are sufficiently cooked, serve in a soup-tureen. A little ketchup or IMadcira may be added, if liked. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 5d. per quart. Haddock Soup (another way). Pick aU the flesh from the bones of a large and very fresh haddock. Put the bones, head, &c., into two quarts of stock, with an onion, a caiTot, and a blade of mace, and let them simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour or more. Pound the meat in a mortar, and with it the crumb of a French roll, which has been soaked in milk and drained, a pint of picked shrimps, and a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley. Strain the gravy, mix it gradually with the fish, &c., and boil all together for half an hour. Season with salt and pepper, pass the soup through a coarse sieve, thicken it with a little flour and butter, let it warm up once more, and serve. Probable cost, lOd. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. HAD ( 290 ) HAG Haddock, Stewed. Take a large fresh haddock, cut off the meat in fillets, and divide these into neat pieces. Put the bones and trimmings into a sauCepan v.'iih a quart of water, an onion, a carrot, and half a dozen peppercorns, and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Strain the gxavy, flour the slices of fish, and fry them in hot lard or dripping tiU they are brightly browned. Put them into the soup, and season it with salt, cayenne, and a table-spoonful of ketchup. Serve in a soup-tureen. Time, altogether, one hour. Sufiicient for two or thi-ee persons. Probable cost. Is. Haddock, Yorkshire Mode of Dressing. Take a perfectly fresh haddock. Empty and wash it, rub it with a httle salt, both inside and out, and hang it in an airy, cool situation for two days. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer it gently for ten minutes. Take it up, di'ain it, remove the head and the skin, dip it in beaten egg, or a little thin flour and water, and strew over it some rather highty-seasoned bread-crumbs. Pour a tablespooiif ul of clarified butter over theiish, and put it in a Dutch oven before the fire until it is nicely browned. Boil an egg six minutes ; pound the yolk, and mix it with a quarter of a pint of good melted butter. Chop the white into small dice, stir them into the sauce, and serve in a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour to toast. Sufficient for two persons. Probable cost, 9d. or more. Haddocks in Brown Sauce. Take eight or nine small haddocks ; wash, dry, and empty them, and put three of them into a saucepan, with a quart of good stock, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Cut the meat fi-om the remaining halfdozen fish in fillets {f!ee Haddock, Fillets of), remove the skin, and put the heads, tails, and trimmings into the saucepan with the gravj'. Simmer gently for an hour and a half, then strain the gravy, season it rather highly with spices and cayenne, and brown it with a little brown roux [see Gravy, Brown, Roux for) . Put in the slices of fish, and boil them about ten minutes. "When sufficiently cooked, hit them carefully out with a slice, place them on a hot dish, and poui" the gravy over them. A little claret may be added, and it is an improvement to add also two dozen oysters, with their liquor. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost of small haddocks suitable for this purpose, 6d. each. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Haddocks in Brow;n Sauce (another way). Prepare three or four small haddocks as in the last recipe. Put a piece of butter the si e of an egg into a saucepan, and, when it is melted, mix smoothly with it two table-spoonfuls of flour. Keep stirring it with a wooden spoon Tintil it is browned, but not burnt, and add gradually as much boiling stock or water as will nearly cover fn?. fish. Add one salt-spoonful of salt, and half a salt- spoonful of pepper. Let it simmer gently until the sauce is smooth and thick, then put in the fillets, and let them remain until sufficiently cocked. Flavour with mushroom ketchup and a glass of claret, if hked. Lift the pieces of fish carefully out with a sUce, place them on a hot dish, and pom- the sauce over them. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Haddocks, To Keep. Scrape and wash the fish. Empty them. Open them below the vent, so that the blood may be cleared from the backbone. Take out the eyes, and put a little salt in the bodies. Let them he a few hours, then put a long wooden skewer through the eyes, and hang them in a dry place for a day or two. They may be cooked like dried or Finnan haddocks {see Haddock, Fionan) . Time, three or four days. Haggis. This dish, which is highly prized in Scotland, and spoken of by her national bard as the " great chieftain o' the pudding race," is made from the stomach, or pluck, of a calf, sheep, or lamb ; that of the sheep, however, is most used. It is boiled in the stomachbag, and care should be taken that no thin parts are left unrepaired in the latter, or it may burst in boiling, and the haggis be spoilt. It is seldom eaten on this side the Border, except amongst Scotchmen. When partly boiled a haggis will keep for two or three weeks, and is often sent in this state from Scotland to friends in other parts. Hearne, tlie American traveller, recommends that it should be mixed with blood instead of gTavy, and roasted instead of boiled ; but when this is done, it must not be placed too near .the fire at first, or it will burst. Those who have tasted it in perfection will agree that a haggis is a most delicious morsel, even when served without pepper, salt, or any seasoning. Haggis, Calf's. The following recipe is copied, word for word, from a recipe in a cookery-book published, by Mrs. MTver, of Edinburgh, in 1787: "Make the haggis-bag (the paunch of a sheep) perfectly clean, parboil the dxaught, boil the liver very well, so that it will grate ; dry the meal before the fire, mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small, grate about half of the liver, mince plenty of the suet and some of the small onions. Mix aU these materials together with a handful or two of the dried meal, spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed spices. Take any scraps of beef left from the miacing, and some of the water that is boiled with the draught, and make about a chopin (a quart) of good stock with it. Then put aU the haggis-meat into the bag with the broth, and sew it up, first maldng sure to press out all the wind. It will require at least two hours' boiling." HAG (291 ) HAK Haggis, English. Take the heart, tongue, kidneys, and jjart of the liver of the sheeji ; and if this is not likely to be enough, add the meat from a sheep's head. Weigh these ingredients, and take half their weight in fat baeon. Mince all very finely, and add the cinimb of a penny roll, grated, two pounded anchovies, a tea-spoonful of minced lemon-rind, and a little pepper and salt. Mix thorouglily, and moisten with two beaten eggs and a glass of wine. Take a well-buttered mould, put in the mixture, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for two hours. Turn the haggis out on a hot dish before ser\'ing. Sufl&cient, without the head, for six or eight persons. Haggis, Lamb's. Take a lamb's paunch, thoroughly cleansed and white, and see that it is quite whole, sew up any thin places there may be in it, and press it in a soft cloth, to dry it thoroughly. Boil the pluck in water till it is sufficiently cooked, then mince it finely, and mis with it a pound of finely-shred beef suet, a pound of oatmeal, six or eight yoimg onions, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, two eggs, well beaten, and half a pint of nulk. When these are theroughly mixed, put them into the paunch, and bo careiul not to fin it so full as to leave no room for swelling. It would be safer if the haggis were tied in a cloth as well as in the bag. Boil gently for three hours, turn out in a hot dish, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Haggis, Mutton {sec Mutton Haggis). Haggis, Royal {s ;e Kew Mince or Haggis Eoyal) . Haggis, Scotch. Take the stomach of a sheep, wash it well, and let it soak for several hours in cold salt and water, then turn it inside out, put it into boiling water to scald, scrape it quickly with a knife, and let it remain in water until wanted. Clean a sheep's pluck thoroughly. Pierce the heart and the liver in several places, to let the blood run out, and boil the liver and lights for an hour and a haK. When they have boiled a quarter of an hour, put them into fresh water, and, during the last half hour, let the rest of the pluck bo boiled ?with them. Trim away the skins, and any discoloured parts there may be, grate half of the liver, and mince all the rest very finely ; add a pound of finely-shred suet, two chopped onions, half a pint of oatmeal, or, if preferred, half a pound of oat-cakes, toasted and crumbled, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and one of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, and a grain of cayenne. Moisten with half a pint of good gravy and the juice of a small lemon, and put the mixture into the bag already prepared for it. Be careivl to leave room for swelling, sew it securely, and plunge it into boiling water. It will requit-e thi'ee houi-s' gentle boiling. Prick it with a needle every now and then, especially during the first half hour, to let the air out. A haggis should be sent to table as hot as possible, and neither sauce nor gTa\y should be served with it. The above is sufficient for eight or ten persons. Haggis, with Fruit and Sugar. Haggis is sometimes made sweet that is, a pound of picked currants, a pound of stoned raisins, and half a pint of sherry arc added to the ingredients of the English haggis {see Haggis, English), and the haggis is then boiled in a caK's bladder. When it is made in this way, sugar should be sent to table with it. Time to prepare, three hours. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Hake. Hake is a west-country fish, common in Devonshii'c, and often sold under the name of white salmon. It would be highly esteemed if it were expensive ; but as it is cheap it is little used except amongst the poor. It may bo cooked in the same waj'' as halibut {see Halibut) , but it is certainly most palatable when baked, as in the following recipes. If a whole fish be bought, and is too large to be used in one day, the thick part may bo cut iato steaks, and the tail end salted and put aside. It is, however, best when fresh. It it in season in the siunmer months. Hake, Baked. Cut four pounds of hake into slices rather more than half an inch thick. Dry them well, and rub them over with floui-. Grate four ounces of stale crumbs of bread. Mix with them a table-spoonful of finely-minced pai'slej', a tea-spoonfid of minced onions, hah" a salt-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Put an ounce of good butter or dripping at the bottom of a jjie-dish, and s jrinkle a little chopped parsley and onion over; then place the sllcas of hake upon it, first covering them thickly with the seasoned crumbs. Divide two ounces of butter or dripY ing into little pieces, and lay them hero and there in the dish. Pour a quarter of a pint of gravy or water underneath, and bake in a good oven. Send the gravj"- cooked with them to table with the fish. It is an improvement to grate a little cheese over the fish befsre puttingit in the oven. If the flavour of the onions is disliked, they should be omitted, and a small bunch of sweet herbs or a few chopped mushrooms substituted. Time, an hour to bake. Probable cost, hake, 3d. or 4d, per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hake, Baked (another way) . Take four pounds 01 hake, cut it into slices rather more than half an inch thick, dry them well, and strew over them two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of powdered ginger, and two of finely-minced onions, or, if the flavour of these is not liked, two tea-spoonfuls of powdered herbs, two-thirds parsley and one-third thyme. Put a piece of butter or good dripping the size of an egg into a deep dish, lay the slices of fish upon it. Make some sauce by mixing two ounces of flour smoothly with a pkit of milk; boil the milk and flour, and with them an onion stuck with two cloves, and a pinch of i epper and salt. Strain the sauce, pour it over the fish, and bake in a good oven for an hour. A little scalded and chopped parsley ma}' be strewn over the top to improve the appearance of the dish. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Hake Cutlets, Pried. Cut two pounds of hake into cutlets, dry them well, and dip HAK ( 292 ) HAL them into a thin butter of flour and water. Cover them witli Lread-crombs, and fry them in hot lard or dripping, until brightly browned on both sides. Put them on blotting-paper, to drain the fat from them, and servo on a napkin. Garnish with parsley. Melted butter, anchovy sauce, or gravy piquant (sec Gravy Piquant) may be sent to table with them. Time, a quarter of an houi". Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Sufficient for thiee or four persons. Hake Soup. Cut five pounds of hake into neat slices, and put these into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a handful of parsley, half a blade of mace, two-tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea-spoonful of ]-)opper, half a drachm of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, and two quarts of cold water. When the soup has boiled a quarter of an hour, take out half the fish, remove the skin and bone, and cut into neat pieces, which must be put aside until wanted. Return the bones and trimmings to the saucepan, and simmer gently for two hours. Strain the soup, thicken it with a table-spoonful of flour, mbced smoothly with a tea-cupful of new milk, and put it on the fire again, and with it the pieces of fish which have been put aside. Let them boil until they are sufficiently cooked, which will be in a few minutes, and take ofif immediately, or they will break. Send toasted bread cut into dice to table with the soup. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six persons. Half-hour Dumplings. Take haK a pound of beef suet, free from skin, and shred it finely. Mix with it half a pound of finelygrated bread-crumbs, and add two ounces of moist sugar, four ounces of currants, cleaned and picked, the rind of half a lemon, finely-minced, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and a tablespoonful of flour. Mix thoroughly, work to a light jjaste with two well-beaten eggs, and a little water, if necessary. Divide the mixture into small balls, tie each ball in a small floured cloth, and boil for half an hour. Turn them out, and send sweetened sauce to table with the dumplings. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, lOd. Half-pound Pudding (sometimes called Half -pay Pudding) . -Mix half a pound of finelyshred suet with half a pound of flour, half a pound of currants, half a pound of raisins, and half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; add a pinch of salt, two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, four table-spoonfuls of treacle, and as much milk as is required to make these ingredients into a stiff batter. Beat for three or four minutes, then pour the pudding into a buttered mould, and let it boil for three hours. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost. Is. Halibut. This excellent fish is not prized as it ought to be, probably on account of its eheapness. Its flesh is delicate and wholesome, and rather resembles turbot in taste. The halibut grows to an enormous size, weighing sometimes as much as a hundred pounds, but those fish are the best which weigh from twenty to forty pounds. The ' ' tit-bits' ' are the flackers over the fins, and the pickings about the head. It is abundant in spring and summer. It is, we believe, a favourite fish with the Jews. Halibut, Baked. Put the head and shoulders of a moderate- sized halibut into a weU-buttered baking-dish, dredge some flour over, and season them rather highly with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Put four or five good-sized lumps of butter upon the fish, and bake in a moderate oven until sufficiently cooked, which will be in about an hour. Thicken the gravy which runs from the fish with flour and butter, and serve it in the dish with the halibut. Shrimp or anchovy sauce may be sent to table with it. Probable cost, about 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six I persons. Halibut, Boiled. This is the least satisI factory mode of cooking halibut. It is much I better fried, baked, or made into a pie. Put five ounces of salt into a gallon of water. As soon as it is dissolved put in the fish, which must be in one piece, with the fins taken off. Bring the water to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently until the flesh of the fish will part easily from the bone. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and send melted butter, and anchovy or shrimp sauce, to table with the halibut. Time for a piece weighing four poimds, twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Halibut Collops. Cut four pounds of halibut into slices about half an inch in thickness. Sprinkle over these two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of ginger, and two of chopped onions or powdered herbs. Put them into a pie-dish, with two ounces of dripping or fat, and pour over them a sauce made by boiling two ounces of flour with a pint of milk until smooth. An onion stuck with cloves may be put into the dish with the milk, to flavour it. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven, and send the saiice to table with the fish, first strewing over it two tea-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Halibut, Curried, Slices of. Take four pounds of halibut, cut it into slices threequarters of an inch in thickness. Leave the skin on, flour them well, and fry in hot butter or lard till they are brightly bro vned. Have ready a quart of good beef stock, nicely flavoured. Thicken it with a table-spoonful of curry-powder, and a table-spoonful of ground rice, mixed smoothly with, a little stock, and HAL ("293 ) HAM cxfterwards added to the rest. Let it boil, and put with it a quarter of a pint of good cream or new nulk. Stew the slices of tisli until they are tender, pile them on a hot dish, let the sauce boil, and poirr it hot over thcin. iServe with a border of rice round the dish. Time, altogether, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Halibut Cutlets. Put the halibut, before cutting it into slices, into a dish, strew a little salt over it, and three-parts fill the dish with water. It must not be deep enough to touch the salt. When the fish has been soaking about an hour, take it out, dry it, and cut it into slices, not more than half an inch thick. Make a thin batter of flour and water, dip the slices of fish in this, and afterwards put them into the frj ing-pan, with hot lard. "When one side is browned, turn over with a slice upon the other. Drain the cutlets on blotting-paper, dish on a napkin, and serve with anchov ', shrimp, or any other fish sauce that may be prefeired. Halibut cutlets are xery good with nothing but a lemon squeezed over them. A few bread-crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt only may be strewn over them before frying. Time, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient, four pounds for six or seven persons. Halibut Pie. Take four pounds of fresh halibut (the middle of the fish is the best for this purpose), season it with salt, pepper, cayenne, and powdered mace. Take off the skin, cut the flesh into tliick slices, and put these into a pie-dish, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, broken into pieces, and two tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, and cover with a good crust. Bake in a good oven for one hour or more. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost of halibut, 6d. or 8d. per I)ound. Halibut, Stewed. Put the head and shoulders of a halibut, weighing about five pounds, into a saucepan, with just as much beer as will barely cover it. Add an onion stuck with two cloves, a sprig of parsley, a tea-siioonful and a half of salt, a tea-spoonful of pcj pcr, and two ounces of butter rolled in flom-. Let the fish stew gently until tender, it which will be in about half an hour. Take it out carefully, lrain it, and thicken the sauce with a httle flom- and butter. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon- I juice, and a tea-sjioonful of mushroom ketchup. Let it boil, and pour a little in the dish with the fish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Ham, Baked. A baked ham is much more delicious than a boiled one, and will keep better. Put a ham into plenty of cold water for some hours. If very hard and salt, twenty-four hours will be necessary ; for an ordinary York ham from eight to twelve hours is sufficient. Wash it after soaking in lukewarm water, trim it neatly, and cut away all the rusty smoked parts. Cover it with a coarse paste made of flour and water, and take care to leave no loophole thi-ough which the gravy can escape. Bake in a moderate oven. Itemove the paste and skin while the ham is still hot, cover it with raspings, and brown it before the fire. Time, according to the size. A very small ham will require fully three hours, and a large one five. The rule is to allow twenty-eight minutes to every pound up to twelve pounds, and a quarter of an hour for every pound beyond it. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Ham, Baked (another way). Soak and prepare the ham as in the last recipe. Put it in warm water for at least an hour, then lay it in a deep pie-dish, with a quarter of a pint of nicely-flavoured stock. Cover it with oiled paper, and afterwards place a good thick coarse crust over it, as in the case of a meat pie. Add a little more stock, if required. Bake in a moderate oven from three to five hours, according to size. The rule is to allow twenty- eight minutes to every pound up to twelve pounds, and a quarter of an hour for every pound beyond that weight. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Baked (German method). Soak, wash, and cut off the skin and discoloured parts of a ham. Strew over it as evenly as possible a powder made by mixing together a table-spoonful of powdered sage, with a dozen pounded cloves, and a tea-spoonful of ground pepper. Cover it all over with a coarse paste at least an inch thick, and fasten it securely, to prevent the juice escaping. Bake in a moderate oven, and let the heat be sustained until the last. Take off the paste while the ham is still hot, and glaze or garnish as usual. Time, three to five hours, according to size. The rule is to allow twenty-eight minutes to eveiy pound up to twelve pounds, and a quarter of an hour for every pound beyond that weight. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Ham, Beef {see Beef Hams). Ham, Boiled. Soak the ham in several waters. If ?ery hard and salt, twenty-four hours or more will be required, if not, from eight to twelve hours will suffice. Lukewarm water will soften it more quickly than cold. Scrub it well, and scrape off the rusty, discoloured parts, but do not cut the skin if it can be avoided. Put it into the kettle with plenty of cold water. If a bunch of sweet herbs, two or thi-ee carrots, and a bay-leaf are added, the flavour will be improved. Let ife be brought to a boil A-erj' slowly, skim it carefully, and simmer very gently until sufficientlj' cooked. If it is not intended to be kept any length of time and still not to be cut until cold, it may be left in the water for an hour after it is done enough : this will improve ' the taste of the ham, but it wiU render it less likely to keep. Lift it out by the knuckle to avoid sticking a fork into it.- Take off the skin, strew over it some broAA-ned crumbs of bread, roll a frill of white paper round the knuckle, and send it to table on a drj , warm dish. If the ham is to be glazed, the bread-raspings must be omitted. Preserve the skin, and place it over the ham when it is put into the larder, as it will keep in the moisture. Time, for a new HAM (294) HAM ham, twenty-fi-s e minutes to the pound is sufficient, counting from the time the water boils ; for an old one, twenty-eight minutes. Add a quarter of an hour for every poimd over twelve pounds. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Boiled (another way). Prepare the ham as above. Put it into a saucepan, and with it a quart of beer, a pint of vinegar, and as much water as will just cover it. Carrots and sweet herbs must not be omitted. Caleulate the time which will be required to cook it according to the rule given in the last recipe, and let the ham be simmered two-thirds of the time, and baked in a moderate oven for the rest. It must be skinned and covered with breadcrumbs before it is put into the oven. Time, from three to five hours, according to size. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Ham, Braised (a la Fran aise). Trim, soak, and prepare the ham in the same way as for boiling. Wrap it in a eloth, and put it in a braising-pan with plenty of cold water, three or four gi-een onions, a sprig of parsley and thyme, and four cloves. Calculate the length of time which wiU be required to cook it (see Ham, Boiled), and, when it is d?)ne enough, drain it, and put it into the pan again, with a bottle of Madeira or sherry. Simmer gently for half an hour. Let it cool in the saucepan, and glaze the ham. Time, from three to five hours, according to its size. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Ham., Broiled. Slices of ham for breakfast niay be either broiled on a gridiron, toasted, or fried. They are, we think, best when toasted on a fork. If broiled, the fii-e must be very clear. The ham should not be more than the eighth of an inch in thickness, and is better when soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before being cooked. Turn it as it gets crisp. Time, five or six minutes to broil. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per poimd. Ham, Burgundy, Mode of Preparing. Soak and boil a ham as usual, but a trifle under the time generally allowed. Take it up, drain it, take off the skin, and trim it neatly. Put it into a deep baking-dish, the fat side uppermost, and pour over it some boiling sauce, made of a pint of good stock, three ounces of sugar, and a bottle of wine (Madeira is the kind generally preferred). Put the dish in a hot oven, until the gravy is considerably reduced, and the ham glazed to a bright brown colom-. Send good brown sauce and onion sauce to table with it. Time to boil, twenty minutes to the pound ; to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost of ham. Is. per pound. Ham, Choosing a. In choosing a ham, look out for one vith a smooth skin, sweet smell, and with the flesh adlaering firmly to the bone. It is best to probe it with a sharp knife down the knuckle, and near the thigh-bone, and if, when the knife is withdrawn, the smeL. is fresh and savoury, and the blade clean, the ham is good; if the contrary is the case, it is bad. York hams are generally considered the best. Ham, Cured. Do not let the pig be killed in either damp or frosty weather, and remember that if it is not fully twelve months old, the ham will not be good. Let the ham hang a day or two after it is cut up, sprinkle a httle salt ever it, and let it drain for anoth-er day. Eub over it very thoroughly a (quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two pounds of salt, and a pound of the very coarsest sugar. Lay it, rind downwards, in a dish, put the salt on the fleshy parts, baste it frequently with the brine which runs from it, and turn it every other day. It must remain for four weeks ; at the end i)f that time drain it, and throw some bran over it. It is now ready to be either smoked or hung. If smoked, oak, green birch, or juniper, should be burnt under it ; pine sha\-ings would spoil the flavour. If it is to be hung, let it be in a cool place ; watch it carefully, and if any part should get rancid and yeUow, scrape it off, and rub the place with pepper, salt, and flour, mixed together in equal proportions. Three months should elapse before the ham is cut. If it is hung in a hot place, the ham will be hard and dry ; if in a very cold one, it vdll be a longer time before it is ready to cook. If hams, when hung, seem not likely to keep well, they should be put into the pickle again, and kept there till wanted, and used as soon as convenient. If the brine should become slimy and disagreeable, it should be boiled, or, better still, a fresh pickle made. Probable cost of ham, Is. per pound. Ham, Cured (an easy way). Take five ounces of salt, five ounces of basalt, an ounce and a half of black pepper, an ounce of saltpetre, and three-quarters of a pound of coarse sugar. Dry these ingredients before the fire, pound and mix them thoroughly, and rub the mixture well into the ham. Tarn and baste it every day for a month. Drain dry, and hang the ham in a cool, dry, airy place ; or, if convenient smoke it. Two or three hams can be cured in one tub, this proportion of pickling ingredients being put to each. The hams should change places every other day, from the top to the bottom. Probable cost of ham. Is. per pound. Sufficient for a ham weighing fourteen pounds. Ham, Cured (in the Yorkshire way). Let the ham hang for twenty-four hours after the hog is cut up, sprinkle a handful of salt over it, and lay it on a board to drain. For a ham weighing fourteen or sixteen pounds, take j one pound of common salt, half a pound of ! basalt, an ounce and a quarter of saltpetre, I and half an oimce of moist sugar. Dry these j well before the fire, pound them in a mortar, mix them thoroughly, and rub them into every part of the ham. Let it lie four days, turning I it every day, then pour over it a pound of j treacle, and leave it for three weeks ; turn it regularly, and baste it frequently. At the end ' of that time put it into cold water for twentyfour hours. Wipe it very dry, and hang it in a cool, dry, airy place. Probable cost of ham, Is. per pouad. Ham, Cured (M. Ude's recipe). Aa i soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut HAM 295 ) HAM up, take the bams, rub them well with common salt, and let them drain for three days. Dry them, and for two hams, weighing sixteen or eighteen pounds each, take a pound of salt, a pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Rub the hams thoroughly with this mixture, put them into a deep pan, with the skin downwards, and turn and baste them every day for a month, at the end of three days pouring a bottle of good vinegar over them. Drain, and dry them well, and, if they are to be smoked, hang them high in the chimney, to keep the fat from melting. "This," says M. Ude, "is superior to a Westphalia ham." Probable cost. Is. per pound. Ham, Cured (Warwickshire method). Rub two ounces of saltpetre well into a leg of pork, and leave it until the next day to drain. Put four quarts of river- water into a large stewpan, with a peck of pale di-ied malt, a pound and a half of basalt, two pounds and a half of common salt, one pound of treacle or moist sugar, and three ounces of sliced onions. Skim carefully, and boil for ten minutes, then pour the liquid through a sieve, hot, upon the meat. Turn the ham, and rub it well every day for three weeks, drain and dry it, and smoke it for thi-ee weeks or a month. The ham should be entii-ely covered with the piclde. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Cured (West Counti-y Method). Take three or four hams weighing fourteen or sixteen pounds each. Let them hang for a day, then rub well into each one two ounces of sal prunella, two oimces of saltpetre, and one pound of salt. Put the hams into a deep pan, and turn them over and rub them each day for three days. jMake a pickle by boiling together three gallons of water, four pounds of common salt, four pounds of basalt, and seven pounds of moist sugar. Skim thoroughly, and when the pickle has boiled for twenty minutes, pour it hot over the meat. The hams must be rubbed and turned daily, and their relative position altered, the one at the top being put to the bottom, and so on. At the end of three weeks they must be drained and dried, and smoked, if practicable. This pickle will be found excellent for beef, bacon, tongues, &c., and will keep for several months if it be boiled and skimmed each time it is used, and kept closely corked. Salt and treacle should be added also to make up for the strength evaporating. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Cured with Hot Pickle. Rub a ham weighing about eighteen pounds with an ounce and a half of poimded saltpetre, and an ounce and a half of brown sugar. Leave it until the next day, then make a hot pickle, by putting one quart of strong beer or porter into a saucepan, with two pounds of salt, haKa a pound of brown sugar, an ounce of black pepper, an ounce of allspice, and a small piece of sal prunella. Pour this, when boiling hot, over the ham, and let it remain for three weeks, rubbing in twice or three times everj' day. Drain and drj- it, and, if possible, smoke it for a fortnight. A ham cured in this way has very much the flavour of a Westphalian ham. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Essence of, for Gravy ( ee Gravy, Essence of Ham for). Ham, Flavotiring a. The flavour of a boiled ham is much better, as we have already said {see Ham, Boiled), when one or two carrots, turnips, onions, a little celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs are boiled in the water with it. There is no waste in this, as the liquid may afterwards be used for soup. The ham is also more succulent if it is left uncut until cold, and not taken out of the liquid for an hour after it comes off the fire. It must not, however, be left in until quite cold. Many persons soak it in vinegar and water, instead of water only, and think it is improved thereby. Ham, Fried, with. Eggs. Cut the ham into slices of a uniform thickness, and, if it is very hard and salt, soak it for eight or ten minutes in hot water, then drain, and dry it in a cloth. Cut off the rind, put the slices in a scrupulously clean cold frying-pan, and turn them two or thi'ee times during cooking. Put them on a hot dish, and if the fat is in the least discoloured, poach the eggs separately {see Eggs, to Poach). Break the eggs, taking care not to break the yolks, and slip them into the pan. Gutter the whites over the yolks with two sjDOons, to shape the eggs like a ball. Take them up with a sUce, drain them from the fat, and place them on the ham. Serve as hot as possible. Time, seven or eight minutes to fry the ham. Probable cost. Is. per pound, if a whole ham be bought; Is. 2d., if purchased in a smaller quantity. Sufficient, a pound of ham and six eggs for three persons. Ham. Fritters. Take the bone of a ham from which no more slices can be cut, and pick off evciy part of the lean meat, and the same quantity of fat. Mince it finely, and with one pound of mince mix two eggs, a cupful of finelygiated bread-crumbs, and half a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Make a thin custard with two eggs and a quarter of a pint of milk. Cut a roll into neat little rounds, and put them into the custard to soak. Take them up with a slice, and put them into a frying-pan, with some hot butter. When they are lightly bro -ned, take them out, spread the mixture thickly over them, strew some grated crumbs over the top, and fry them three or four minutes in butter. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity, exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for three or fourpersons. Ham, Garnishing and Ornamenting. The most usual way of finishing a ham when it is not glazed is to draw off the skin carefully, dredge bread-raspings all over the fat, and put the ham before the fire to become brown and crisp. Fasten a frill of white paper round the bone, and garnish with parsley or cut vegetables. When served hot at a large dinner, it should be glazed {see Ham, Glazing of), or the i-ind, while warm, may be carved in any ornamental device. White paper must be placed round the knuckle. Aspic jelly is a favourite garnish for cold ham {sec Ham, with Aspic Jelly) . If the skin is not ornamented, it should be preserved to lay over the ham when it is HAM C 296 ) HAM put aside, as it is useful for keeping in the moisture. HAM-GARHISHED. Ham, Glazing of. Remove the rind, and, to do so, take hold of it at the thick end first. Trim it neatly, put it in the oven for a few minutes, and press a cloth over it to dry it ; brush it over with a paste brush dipped in melted ftlaze. The colour should not be too dark. Two or three coats are required. To melt the glaze, put the jar which contains it into a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it until dissolved. As has been explained elsewhere {sec Glaze), glaze is simply strong clear gravy boiled to the consistence of sjTup. Ham, Minced. Take a pound of lean ham already dressed ; mince it very finely, and mix with it a little cayenne and a blade of mace, powdered. Put it into a saucepan with two table.-spoonfuls of cream and half a pint of good veal stock. Stir it over the fire for a few minutes until quite hot, but it must not boil, and serve on buttered toast. This is a good dish for breakfast or supper. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Ham, Mutton {see Mutton Ham.) Ham, Mutton, Smoked. Choose a large, fresh leg of mutton ; have it cut into the shape of a ham, let it hang for two or three days, then rub it well with a pound of salt, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre, pounded and made warm before the fire. Be careful to cover the hole of the shank with the mixture. Put it in a deep dish, and rub it well with the pickle every day for a fortnight, then di-ain and dry it ; put it under a heavy weight for one day, and hang it in smoke for a week or more. It may be either boiled or broiled. Mutton hams may now be bought at the provision shops ready cui-ed for 7d. per pound. Probabla cost, lOd. jDcr pound. Ham Oraelet. ilince one ounce of ham very finely, and, if imcooked, fry it for a minute or two in a little butter. Break four eggs into a basin, beat them well, and stir in with them the minced ham and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. Pour two ounces of butter or lard into the frying-pan ; when hot, add the eggs, and stir quickly until the mixture sets. Shake the pan for a minute or two, to prevent bwrning, then double up the omelet, and when one side is brightly browned, turn it over on a hot dish, and serve. Time, five minutes to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three persons. Ham or Bacon Omelet {sec Bacon or Ham Omelet). Ham or Bacon, To Cure {sec Bacon or Ham, To Cure). Ham or Sausage, and Eggs {see Bacon and Eggs). Ham, Pickled. As soon as the pig is cut up, rub the ham well with common salt, and let it remain for a day or two. For a ham weighing twelve or fourteen pounds, prepare a pickle consisting of a poimd of salt, half a pound of sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, and a pint and a half of vinegar. Eub the ham well, and turn it every day for a month. Drain and dry, hanging it in a cool place to dry. Then smoke for three weeks. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Ham, Pickle for (to keep for some months). Put six quarts of water into a large saucepan, with four pounds of salt, threequarters of a pound of sugar, and three ounces j of saltpetre. Boil for twenty minutes. Skim thoroughly. When cold, pour it upon the ham. This pickle will answer equally well for tongues, beef, &c. The meat should be rubbed with salt, and drained for twenty-four hours before it is put in, and care should be taken that the liquid completely covers every part. The pickle should be boiled up every two or three months. The time required will depend upon the natiu-e and size of the meat, and the degree of saltness desired. A ham of foui-teen pounds will take about three weeks ; a tongue, ten days ; a large piece of beef, a fortnight. Probable cost of the pickle, 6d. Ham, Potted. Take one pound of lean ham and a quarter of a pound of fat, or, in place of this, two ounces of fresh butter. Pound the meat to a smooth paste, and flavour it with a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace and a pinch of cayenne. Put it into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and keep in a cool, drjplace. Potted ham may be used for breakfast or luncheon, or for sandwiches. Any remains of cold ham may be potted in this way. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Ham, Roasted. Soak the ham until it is softened, then put it into a deep pan, and pour over it a bottle of Madeira, or any light wine, and with it four carrots, four onions, and one dozen peppercorns. Turn it over every two'or three hours, and leave it until the following day. Drain it, put it down before a clear fire, and baste liberally wth the liquid in which it was soaked. It will require four or five hom's to roast, according to the size. Take it up, skin, and glaze it ; boil up the gravy, &c., which should be sent to table in a tureen. It is a good plan to boil the ham for an hour before it is put into the marinade, when, of course, it will not need to be roasted quite so long. Probable cost. Is. per poimd. Ham Sandwiches. Take slices of stale bread, two days old, and the eighth of an inch in thickness. Cut them neatly with a sharp knife, butter them, and cover one slice evenly with thin slices of ham, cut into pieces about an inch in length, and from which all the skin and HAM (297) HAM unpalatable pieces have been removed. Spread a little mustard on the ham, and place another slice of bread and butter on the top. Press them together, and cut into pieces about two and a half by two inches. Arrange them neatly on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. Sandwiches aie very good made with potted ham, instead of plainly-boiled ham. Probable cost of boiled ham, 2s. 8d. per pound. Ham Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, &C. Take the bone of a ham, from which no more slices can be cut. Pick off all the meat, and chop the bone into five or six pieces. Put it in a saucepan with half a pint of good unflavoured stock. Simmer gently for half an hour, stin'ing occasionally to prevent it burning. Add a bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, andanother haK-j)int of stock, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer again very gently for two hours. Strain, and put aside for use. This sauce wiU be found very useful in flavouring gravies, sauces, fec. A little ham improves them so much that it is worth while keeping a ham in cut for no other purpose {see Gravy, To Improve the Colour and Flavour of). Probable cost, 3d. per half -pint, exclusive of the ham-bone. Ham Sauce for Grills and Broils. Put two ounces of lean ham, already dressed, cut into small dice, into a saucepan with an ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of finelyminced shallots. Fry them for two or three minutes, then add half a pint of good brown sauce, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little caj-enne. Stir these over the fire for six or eight minutes, and, just before serving, add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Suitable for grills and broils. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a pint of sauce. Ham Sausages, Smoked. German. Take five pounds of lean porK, minced as finely as possible. Mix with it a pound of fat, also minced, but not quite so small, and season it with haK an ounce of pepper, the eighth of an ounce of saltpetre, and three ounces of salt. Add the seasoning gradually, while the meat is being chopped, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of claret or Burgundy. Let the meat stand for sLx or eight hours in a cool place. Fill the skins, properly prepared, as tightly as possible, pressing the meat down, and not leaving anj portion of space unoccupied. To insure this, they should be left for some hours, and then pressed down again. Wind a piece of new tape round thom backwards and forwards once, tie it at the end, and hang the sausages in cool smoke for twelve days. They should be from ten to twenty inches in length. They are usually eaten raw, after being kept about a month ; bat, if it is preferred, they may be simmered gently in water for an hour either before or after smoking, but they must not quite boU. Time, two or three days to "prepare. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Ham Scollops. Cut a poxmd of ham in scollops a quarter of an inch thick, three inches long, and two troad. Fry them in hot butter until lightly browned on each side, drain them from the fat, and put them on a hot dish. Pick the leaves from a sprig of young parsley, wash 20 it in two or three waters, chop it small, and put a table-spoonful into a saucepan, with thi-ee ounces of fresh outter, a little pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the mixture on the hob, not on the fire, and keep Stirling until it is as tliick as custard. Pour it over the scollops, and serve. Time, six minutes to fry the ham. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Ham, Smoked, Mecklenburg. In Mecklenburg it is lisual, after boiling the ham and removing the skin, to sprinkle over it bread-crumbs, browned and seasoned with powdered cinnamon, powdered cloves, and a morsel of sugar. The proportions are regulated by taste as well as by the strength of the spices. I Generally speaking, two cloves, haK an inch of ' cinnamon, and a large lump of sugar would be considered sufficient for a moderate-sized ham. Ham Smoked at Home. When there is no chimney which can be used for the purpose, hams may be smoked as follows : Fill an old cask, open at both ends, with oak sawdust. Fasten a stick across the top, on which the hams should be hung, and bury in the middle of the sawdust a bar of red-hot iron. Cover the cask, to keep in the smoke, and let the heat be as equal as possible, or the ham wiU be spoilt. The length of time required will de-. pend upon the size of the ham. A large one should remain four days. Ham Toast. Take three ounces of lean ham. Chop it very small, and mix it with the beaten yolk of an egg. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, and, when it is melted, stir in the ham and egg, season with cayenne, and, when the mixture is quite hot, spread it upon a slice of hot buttered toast. Serve at once. , Time, three or four minutes to heat the ham, &c. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 6d. Ham and Chicken Patties. Line as many small patty-pans as you require with puff-paste. Lay a crust of bread in each, put on the lid, brush over with well-beaten egg, and bake them in a quick oven, untU delicately browned. While they are baking, take some ham and chicken, previously finely minced, and freed from sinew and skin. Of this, two-thirds should be chicken, and one-third ham. Flavour nicely with grated lemon-rind, salt, and cayenne. Put the meat into a saucepan, with good gra-\y sufficient to moisten it, squeeze over it a few drops of lemon-juice, and when the patties are sufficiently baked, cut out the top, remove the bread, put in a little of the mince, place the lid over it, and serve, piled on a hot napkin, and garnished according to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 3d. each. One pound of flour and threequarters of a pound of butter will make sufficient paste for two dozen patties. Ham and Chicken, Potted (see Chicken and Ham). Ham and Chicken Sandwiches (*?? Chicken and Ham Sandwiches) . Ham and Egg Patties. Take a stale quartern loaf, remove the crust, and cut the crumb into thick slices, an mok asd a half HAM ( 298 ) HAM thick. Stamp these into rounds as large as the toil of an egg cup, and make a little incision with the point of a sharp knife all round inside each ring, half an inch from the edge. Fry these pieces of bread in hot fat till lightly browned, scrape out the middle, put a dessert.spoonful of minced ham in each, prepared as in the last recipe, and place a poached egg on the top of each. Time, three or four minutes to fry the bread. Probable cost, od. each. A quartern loaf, will make a dozen patties. Ham and Fowl, Potted. Take the meat from a cold chicken, and put it into a mortar with half a pound of cooked ham, fat and lean mixed. Pound these to a pulp, and season them with pepper and a very little pounded mace. Put the bone and trimmings of the chicken into a saucepan, with a small bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, and as much water as will cover them. Boil the meat down to glaze. Mix this and two ounces of clarified butter with the pounded meat. Put it into small jars, and poui- clarified butter over the top. Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold chicken. Ham and Fowl, Potted (another way). See Fowl with Ham, Potted. Ham and Liver, Forcemeat of {see Liver and Ham Forcemeat) . Ham and Veal, To Press. Take equal weights of veal and ham. Remove the bones, rind, &c., and cut the meat into slices a quarter of an inch in tliickness. Pour a quarter of a pint o'f water into a deep pie -dish, then fill it with alternate layers of veal and ham, and season each layer with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Put a cover on the meat, with a heavy v eight upon it, and put it into a moderate oven until it is quite tender. Do not remove the weight until the meat is cold. Both the bottom and the top layer should be composed of veal. A saucer should be put under the pie-dish, to catch any gravy that the weight may force out of it. Time, about three hours to bake six pounds of meat. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, Gs. Ham, with. Aspic Jelly. The best garnish for a cold ham that is intended to bo used at once is aspic jelly {see Aspic Jelly), as it may be eaten with it. It should be cut into dice, and the dish ornamented with it in any appropriate way. A few caiTots and pickles, stamped into shapes, may be added. When a ham is expected to be kept for some days, however, this garnish should not be used, as it soon spoils. Ham, with. Savoury Crust. Instead of strewing plain browned bread-crumbs over "the ham when the skin is taken off, a pleasing variety may be made by seasoning thom with a table-spooiiful of sugar and five or sLx powdered ?cloves. Put the ham in a baking-dish, brush it over with beaten egg, and strew the seasoned crumbs thickly upon it. Place it in a hot oven or before the fire to brown for a few minutes. Ham, with Stewed Veal Cutlets. Cut a slioe of ham with each cutlet, and trim them as nearly as possible to the same shape. Cook thom in the stewpan, and serve them with the ham laid upon the cutlet. Dish them in a circle, and pour the sauce in the middle {see Veal CuMets). Ham, with Windsor Beans. Windsor, or broad beans, are a favourite accompaniment to ham. They should be boiled until tender, then drained and steamed over the fire for a few minutes, with pepper, salt, and a small pat of butter. They may be placed round the ham or on a separate dish ; and, if old, the skins should be taken off. Parsley and butter should be sent to table in a tui-een. Time, according to the age of the beans, from fifteen to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per peck. Sufficient, a peck of beans for five or six persons. Hamburg Beef (prepared in the German way). Take about sixty pounds of beef, which may be composed of seven or eight pieces. Mix four pounds of salt with four ounces of saltpetre, and rub the meat thoroughly with it. Take a deep tub, see that it is scrupulously clean, and wa?h it out with cold water. Put into it, a handful of the leaves of marjoram, sweet basil, and thyme, the same of bayleaves, a dozen cloves, two blades of mace, a quarter of an ounce of juniper berries, and two ounces of white pepper. Pack the pieces of beef on part of this seasoning, and sprinkle the rest over, with as much of the salt and saltpetre as could not be rubbed into the beefPlace a weight on the top, and if, at the end of a few days, the liquid does not rise over the hd, pour a pint of strong salt and water into the tub. The smaller pieces can bo used at the end of three weeks, the larger should be left for a month. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Hamburg Beef Salad (named Hambro' Salad). Make a salad with a pint of mixed vegetables, which have been washed, thoroughly dried, and finely shred. Mix with them half a dozen filleted anchovies, three or four sharp apples, finely minced, and a quarter of a pound of dried salmon, cut into small pieces. Season with pepper, salt, vinegar, and oil, and just before serving, strew over the top, half a pound of Hamburg beef, chopped small. Garnish the dish, aecording to taste, with parsley, shoes of hard-boiled egg, beetroot, &c. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hamburg Beef, Smoked. Take about a quarter of a pound weight of the rump, or ribs of beef, and rub a little common salt and coarse sugar into it. Let it remain for two or three days, and turn it frequently. Drain and wipe the meat. Pound and mix thoroughly a quarter of a pound of common salt, a quarter of a pound of basalt, an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce of pepper, and half a dozen pounded cloves. Rub these well into the beef, and turn it eveiy day for a fortnight. Take it up, drain it, roll it tightly in a cloth, and smoke it for ten or twelve days. It may be cooked whole, or in pieces, but if boiled whole should be pressed under a weight until cold. Probable cost. Is. per poimd. Hamburg Beef, Smoked, To Boil. Soak the meat in lukewarm water, and let it remain over-night, then dry it, and cut away HAM ( 299 ) HAK .iny discoloured parts. Trim and roll it neatly anil finnly, and bind it with tapes. Put it into plenty of cold water, remove the scum carefully, and let it boil until no more rises, then draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until done enoug'h. If two or three carrots and onions arc boiled with the beef, the flavour will be improved. Strew grated bread-crumbs over it before serving. Time, as a general rule half an hour may be given for each poimd, after the water has boiled. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufiicient, beef weighing seven pounds for twelve persons. Hamburg Pickle. Take a gallon of water, that has been boiled. Mix with it two pounds and a half of common salt, a pound and a half of moist sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, and half a pint of vinegar. Simmer for twenty minutes, skim carefully, and, when cold, put in the beef, which should be turned every day, and will bo ready for smoking in three weeks. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient, for five quarts of pickle. Hamburg Pickle (Improved). If basalt be substituted for the common salt in the last recipe, the flavour of the meat will be much improved, though the expense wiU be slightly increased. This piclde will remain good for nearly twelve months if it is boiled again occasionally, with a little more salt, saltpetre, and sugar, to make up for waste. Ham.psllire Pudding (sometimes called Hertfordshire Pudding). Line the edge of a pie-dish with good pufl;-paste. Spread some jam at the bottom of the dish, about an inch thick. Beat the yolks of three, and the whites of two eggs, thoroughlj-. Add to them three ounces of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted, and three ounces of melted butter. Boat these together irntn they are quite thick, pour the mixture over the jam, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hannah More's Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely, mix with it a quarter of a pound of gi-ated breadcrumbs, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and a quarter of a pound of chopped apples, weighed after they are pared and cored. Add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, two ounces of candied-lemon, chopped small. When these ingredients are thoroughlj mixed, stir into them four well-beaten eggs and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Pour into a well-buttered mould, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for two hours. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Hanover Buns. Mix a large tablespoonful of fresh yeast with three table-spoonfuls of warm milk, add a quarter of a pound of fine flour, and leave it to rise. Boat six ounces of butter to a cream, add a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar, half a pound of flour, and the thin rind of a lemon minced as small as possible. Moisten this with the yolks of three and the white of one egg, add the yeast, &c., and beat it well with the hand lantil air-bubbles begin to rise. The dough should be of the usual consistency. Make it into small cakes, and set them on a buttered tin a little distance from each other. Put them in a warm place, and, when nicely risen, brush them over with beaten egg, and bake them in a good oven till brightly browned. Strew a little powdered sugar over them before serving. If fresh yeast cannot bo obtained, three-quarters of an ounce of German yeast may be substituted for it. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a dozen buns. Hanover Sauce (suitable for fowls, &c). Soak the thin rind of half a lemon in half a pint of cream for an hour or more. Boil the liver, and pound it in a mortar, with a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice and a little salt and cayenne. Add the strained cream. Stir it over the fire for a few minutes. It must not boil. Serve in a tureen. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Harbour Balls. Put one pint of milk and one omice of butter into a saucepan, and when the butter is melted, pour the milk over two pounds of flour. Make up into a stift' dough, and add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a table-spoonful of yeast mixed with i a well-beaten egg. Cover the bowl with a cloth, I and let it remain on the hearth for half an hour, I then make it into small round balls, place them at a little distance from each other on buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three dozen balls. Hard, or Suffolk Dumplings. Put a salt-spoonful of salt into a pound of flour, and mix it with as much water as will make it into a stift' paste. Divide the paste into half a dozen balls, dip these in flour, throw them into a pan of fast-Taoiling water, and let them boil for threequarters of an hour. Put a little butter in the middle of each ball, or send gravy to table with them. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Hare, Baron of (a German recipe). In Germany a hare is frequently made up into two dishes, and may be served at difi:erent times, which, when the family is small, is often a convenience. The baron, which consists of the back and thighs, is the superior dish, and it is this to which the present recipe refers. Directions for cooking the inferior parts will be given in a succeeding paragraph {sec Hare Peppei) . Divide the hare into two parts, cutting close to the shoulder-blades. Leave the kidneys in the loins, and remove the thin skin from the back. Rub the hare over with moist sugar, and leave it for three or four hours, then put it into a deep dish with a finely-minced onion, a bayleaf, a dozen juniper berries, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Let it remain in this marinade for two days, turning and basting it frequently. Drain it and lard it in neat rows with thin strips of bacon. Put it down before a clear fire imtil it is nicely browned, then put it into a stewpan with the marinade, a tca-spoonfuI of salt, half a tc-a-spoonful of pepper, and the contents of the dripping-pan taken from xmder it. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the meat steam until tender, basting frequently during HAR ( 300 ) HA] the process. Put the hare into a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and send the sauce in which it was stewed to table in a turecH, after having strained and thickened it, and added a large table-spoonful of red currant jelly and a wine-glassful of claret. Time, threequarters of an hour to roast, thi-ee-quarters of an hour to steam. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Hare, Batter for Basting. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and the white of one. Mix smoothly with them two table-spoonfuls of flour, and add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of oil, and a pint of milk. When the hare is about thi-ec-parts roasted, baste it with the batter, until the latter stiffens, and forms a covering over the hare. Care must be taken not to let this burn. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for one hare. Hare, Beef Rolled as {see Beef Rolled as Hare). Hare, Beef Stewed as {see Beef Stewed as Hare). Hare, Braised. Stuff the hare with a suitable forcemeat {see Hare, Forcemeat for). Sew it up securely with needle and thread, and put it into a braising-pan, with two finelyminced shallots, a scraped carrot, four buttonmushrooms, or, in place of these, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a pint of good stock. Place three ounces of butter on the hare, put the lid on the pan, and simmer gently for about two hours. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold_water; add a glass of sherry, Madeira, or claret, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Send red currant jelly to table with the hare. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Broiled. Season the legs and shoulders rather highly with a little salt and cayenne, broil them over a clear fire, rub some cold butter over them, and serve as quickly as possible on a hot dish. Time, five minutes to broil. Sufficient for thi-ee persons. Hare Cakes. Take the remains of cold roast hare, and mince it finely with a quarter of its weight of finely-shred suet. Pound the mince in a mortar, and season rather highly with salt and cayenne. Bind it together with beaten egg and a little milk. The yolk of one egg and a table-spoonful of mUk will be sufficient for a pound of hare. Make the mince up into small cakes, dip these in flour, and fry them in hot dripjiing or lard. Serve them on a hot dish, pour round them some gi'avy, made with the bones and trimmings of the hare, and garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Time, five or six minutes to fry the cakes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three persons. Hare, Choosing a.- If the cleft in the lip of a hare is widely spread, the claws blunt, and the ears tough and hard, the animal is old, and should be jugged, stewed, or made into soup, but never roasted. When the body is stiff, the hare is fresh ; if limp, it is stale. A hare should be hung by the fore-legs, and is always better if it is not paiinched for four or five days after being killed. If it is already paunched, the liver should be taken out and scalded, the heart removed, and the inside of the hare wiped dry every day. If a small piece of charcoal be put in the inside, it will help to keep the hare. A hare should be hung for ten days or a fortnight, in cold weather, before being cooked. Hare, Civet of. This dish may be made either with the remains of cold roast hare or with an uncooked hare. In the former case, the meat would require to be wanned for a few minutes only in the gravy ; in the latter, it would have to be stewed with it. Divide the hare into small neat pieces, and fry them for a few minutes with half a pound of fat bacon, cut into dice,andtwo ouncesof butter. When lightly browned, hft out the meat and bacon, and mix a table-spoonful of flour smootlily into the fat. Add gradually a pint and a half of stock, and put it into a stewpan with the bones of the hare, half a dozen small onions, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, a drachm of ca5'enne, a small lump of sugar, and a few mushrooms, or, in place of these, a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder or a table-spoonful of I ketchup. Simmer gently for an hour, then ' strain the gravy, put in the pieces of meat, with I the bruised hver, a cupful of blood, and half a tumblerful of port. Simmer again as long as I the meat requires it, and serve as hot as possible. I The juice of half a lemon is by some considered I an improvement. Time, altogether, about two hours. Probable cost of hare, from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Civet of {see also Civet of Hare). Hare CoUops. Take the remains of cold hare, pick the meat from the bones, mince it finely, and season ratlier highly with cayeime and salt. For every pound of minced meat put one ounce of butter into the irpng-pan, diedge a little flour over it, add the meat, and keep stirring over the fire till it is a dark brown. Put haK a pint of strained gravy, made from the bones and trimmings, into a saucepan, add the coUops, and a glass of port. Simmer gently for half an hour. Serve on a hot dish, with toasted sippets for garnish. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat and wine. Sufficient for two or three persons, when made with one pound of minced meat. . Hare Cutlets (a German recipe). The back of the hare, which is the best part of it, may be divided into cutlets, and fried. The rest may be used for soup, or served some other way. Leave the bones in the cutlets, trim them neatly, and rub into them some salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Mix a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced sweet herbs, and half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, -with a quarter of a pint of breadcrumbs. Dip the cutlets in egg, and afterwards in the seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot butter. Put them in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and garnish the dish vidth slices of hard-boUed egg and pickled gherkins. Time, from twelve to fifteen minutes to fry the cutlets. Probable cost of hare, from 38. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for three or four persons. HAR (301 ) HAH Hare (en Daube). Cut off the head of a hare, and truss it securely. Line a braisingpan with slices of bacon, place the hare on it, and with it a calf's foot, broken into small pieces, a large onion, A th four cloves stuck into it, a large bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two sliced carrots, and a quarter of a pint of good stock. Dredge a little pepper over the meat, cover it with slices of bacon, lay three or four folds of buttered paper over the bacon, and simmer slowly for four hours. Strain the gravy, boil it till it will jelly, pour it over the meat, and serve cold. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Florendine (sometimes called Roll of Hare). Take a hare, cut off the head, bone it, dry it well with a soft cloth, and spread the stuffing over the inside. EoU it up, sew it securely with strong thi-ead, and put it into a saucepan, with as much water as will barely cover it, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a bunch of parsley, and an onion, stuck with four cloves. Let it simmer very gently for an hour and a half, then drain off a pint and a half of the gravy, and put it into another saucepan, with a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle, and two wine-glassfuls of port. Thicken the gravy with ilour, and add a little browning, if necessarj'. Stir it until it is smooth and thick. Put the hare on a hot dish, pour the gravy round it, and let forcemeat balls and stewed mushrooms be served with it. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Forcemeat for. If the liver of the bare is perfectly sound, boil it gently for six minutes, mince it finely, and mix it with four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, haK a tea-spoonful of fresh lemon rind, chopped very small, half a tea-spoonful of minced parsley, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of thyme, and the same of sweet marjoram, a small tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and two or three grates of nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, then work into them two ounces of good butter and the yolks of two eggs. If the ! liver is not sound, it may be omitted, and then j one egg only will be necessarJ Everything ' used in making forcemeat should be quite fresh and sweet, or a very unpleasant flavour may be given to the dish. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one hare. Hare, Forcemeat for (another way). See Forcemeat for Hare. Hare, Gateau of. Prepare a hare as if for roasting. Cut it into joints. The best parts the back, thighs, and shoulders may be used for the gateau, and the remainder for a civet or for soup. Take the meat from the skin and sinews, cut it up, and pound it in a mortar, with one pound of the neck or loin of veal, half a pound of fresh, lean pork, and a quarter of a pound of unsmoked fat bacon. A table-spoonful of soup or stock may be added while pounding, so as to make the meat into a smooth paste. Add pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste, together with two or three small onions, finely minced, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. Beat half a dozen raw eggs, and add them one at a time. Line the bottom and sides of a baking-dish with slices of fat bacon, cut very thin. Spread the chopped meat over it, about an inch and a half in thickness, and place two or three more slices upon it. Eepeat until aU the meat is used, letting bacon be uppermost. Place the skin of the bacon or a coarse crust of flom- and water on the top of the dish, to keep in the juices, and bake in a moderate oven. If the oven were hot, the meat would be hard and dry. When cool, dip the dish into hot water, turn out the cake, place on a napkin, and garnish according to taste. This dish is good for breakfast or luncheon, and will keep for some days. It should be eaten cold. Time, about four hours to bake. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Gateau of (made with cold dressed hare) . Take the flesh fiom the bones of a cold roast hare, remove the skin and sinews, cut it small, and pound it in a mortar with the liver of the hare. Take half the weight of the meat, in finely-grated bread-crumbs, soak them in as much good broth as they will absorb, and mix them with the pounded meat. Season with salt, pepper, and spices, according to taste, together with a finely -minced shallot, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. Add two well-beaten eggs. Cover the inside of a mould with slices of bacon. Put in the pounded meat, lay some more slices on the top, and bake in a moderate oven, or put it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Take away the bacon that sunounds it, and strew finely-grated bread-crumbs over it. This dish may be eaten either hot or cold. If eaten hot, a sauce should be sent to table with it made of the bones and trimmings of the hare, stewed in a little stock, seasoned, and flavoured. Time, an hour and a half to bake. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the cold hare. Hare, Gravy for (??? Gravy for Hare). Hare, Haricot of. When the best parts of the hare have been used, the remainder may be cooked as follows: Di\'ide the hare into small, neat joints. Fry these for three or four minutes in a little butter, then put them into a larger stewpan, with a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a shallot, finely minced, two turnips and two carrots, cut into small pieces, three or four cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Mix a little flour very smoothly with the butter in which the hare was fried, let it brown lightly, then add gradually a pint and a half of good stock. Let the sauce boil a minute or two, then pour it over the hare, &c., and simmer gently for an hour. A dessert-spoonful of chili vinegar, or the same quantity of lemonjuice may be added, if liked. Put the meat into a hot dish, pour the sauce round it, and serve with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the hare. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hare, Hashed. Take the remains of cold roast hare, and cut it into neat pieces. Put a pint of gravy into a saucepan with the trimmings of the hare, a table-spoonful of redcurrant jelly, and salt and pepper, if necessary. HAR ( 302 ) HAR Simmer gently for twenty minutes. If there is not so much as a pint of gravy remaining, it must ho made up with water and stewed longer. Strain the gravy, and put it into a saucepan, and with it the pieces of hare, dredged with flour, and a glass of port. Simmer for a quarter of an hour, then cut the forcemeat into slices, and put them into the gravy for three or four minutes, to get hot, then serve in a hot dish. Probahle cost, exclusive of the cold meat and wine, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hare, Hashed (another way). When no gravy remains fi-om the previous day's dinner, cut the hare into neat pieces, and put the bones and trimmings aside for use. Fry three small onions and an ounce of bacon, cut into dice, in a little butter, take them out when done, and mix a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with the fat. Add gradually a pint of water, a blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, five or six chives, the bones and trimmings, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently for an hour after the gravy has boiled. Strain the gi-avy, put in the pieces of hare and a table-spoonful of red currant jelly. Boil for five minutes, and serve on a hot dish, with toastfed sippets round. A little blood is an improvement to this dish as well as to many othoi's when the knowledge of its presence is confined to the cook, but modern taste is rather opposed to it. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d. Sufficient for three .or four persons. Hare (the Hunter's way). Prepare the hare as if for roasting. Cut it into neat joints, and fry in butter until brightly bro vned. Put the pieces into a saucepan with four onions and a little salt and pepper. Pour in half a pint of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and let the liquid steam until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Add more water, if required. Time, two hours to steam. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Jugged. Cut up a hare as it would be carved at table, and dredge each piece over with dry flour. Procure a pound of beef steak with a fair proportion of fat, and cut it into pieces an inch and a half square. Take a taU earthen jar with a closely-fitted Kd, and fiU with alternate layers of beef and hare. IMix with the pieces of meat a large onion, with four or five cloves stuck in it, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, the rind of half a lemon, pared as thin as possible, a bunch of parsley and thyme, tied in muslin, and as much stock or water as will cover the meat. Fit the lid on the jar as closely as possible, that the steam may not escape, and put it into a saucepan of boiling water, of such a depth that the water shall not reach the top of the jug, nor enter it. Let it be kept constantly boiling for four or five hours, until the hare is tender. Serve in a large hash dish, with forcemeat balls {see Hare, Forcemeat for) round the dish, and send red currant jelly to table with it. The beef should not be sent in ?with the hare, but wiU be found excellent if used for potted beef. Taste the gravy, and add more salt and pepper if required, biit it is always better to put in too little than too much of these ingredients at first. A glass of port wine is an improvement. It should be put in about ten minutes before the hare is taken up. Probable cost, 5s., supposing the hare to cost 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Hare, Jugged, Mock. Take two pounds of beef steak ; cut them in pieces an inch and a half square, dip the pieces in flour, and put them into a saucepan, with just as much water or stock as will cover tnem, a large onion stuck with eight cloves, a bunch of parsley and thyme, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon, a bay-leaf, and a small carrot. Cover the saucepan closely, and sunmer gently for two hours. Have some good hare forcemeat ready, make it into smaU balls, and stew these in the gravy with the meat for the last half hour. Just before serving, add pepper, salt, and a wine-glassful of port. Serve on a hash dish, and garnish with the forcemeat balls. Send rod currant jelly to table on a glass dish. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Hare, Jugged (Yorkshire mode). Make half a pound of good forcemeat. Divide the hare into joints, and put it into a deep earthen jar, with a pound of beef steak and half a pound of fat bacon. Put the beef and hare in layers, and place the piece of bacon in the middle of them. Season as in the last recipe. Pour over the hare a pint of stock and haK a pint of blood. Cover the jar closely, and bake in a good oven for two hours and a half. Let the forcemeat balls be put in with the rest for the last half hour, and, ten minutes before the hare is served, add a glass of port. Be careful to lift the balls out gently, so as not to break them, and send red currant jelly to table on a glass dish. Probable cost, 5s. 6d., supposing the hare to cost 33. 6d. Snfficient for eight or nine persons. Hare, Larded. The flesh of hare is such dry food, that it is a saying amongst cooks that " a hare with twelve pennyworth of sauce is worth a shilling." When old, it ought never to be roasted without being larded, and a young hare is much improved by the same process. The fore part of the animal may be reserved for stewing, or for soup. Truss the hind part securely; pass one leg tlirough the other, and fasten the skin round with skewers. Hold the back and legs before a clear fire for three or four minutes to " set " the flesh. Lard the thick part of the back and legs with thin strips of fat bacon [see Larding) ; cover with one or two folds of buttered paper, and roast before a clear fire for three-quarters of an hour. Take oif the paper during the last ten minutes, that the hare may be equally coloured aU over. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, and send red currant jelly to table with it. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost of hare, from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Hare, Liver Sauce for. Simmer the Hver for a quarter of an hour in good beef gravy, mhice it finely, and with it a small HAB ( 303 ) HAB onion. Add a dessert- spoonful of chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of cm-rant jelly, and three of port wine. iStir the sauce over the fire till hot, and serve. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Hare, Mutton Gravy for. Cut a pound of the scrag of mutton in pieces ; brown them in a little butter, and poui- over them a pint and a half of boiling water. Let the gravy boil up, then simmer gently for an hour or more. Strain it, add a little salt, and a little browning, if required, clear off the fat, and send to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Ovened. Instead of hashing hare, it may be warmed up as foUows : Take the remains of cold hare and pick the meat from the bones. Divide it into small neat pieces. Cut half a pound of fat bacon into dice. Fry these in butter till sHghtly browned, and put them at the bottom of a deep pie-dish. Strew a handful of finely-grated bread-crumbs over them, and on this place the pieces of hare, seasoned with pepper and salt. Cut some buttonmushrooms into halves, stew them partially, and lay them on the hare, and over them another layer of bread-criimbs. Distribute httle pieces of butter over the suifaco, and enough broth to prevent the whole getting dry and hard. This should be put in in small quantities, as required. Put the dish into the oven and serve when hot throughout. If mushrooms are not to be had, supply their place with mashed potatoes, and add a little ketchup to the broth which is used to moisten the hare. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold hare. Sufficient for four or five persons. Hare Pasty; (a German recipe). Skin the hare, and cut it into joints or half -joints ; lard these with thin strips of bacon, and lay them in a deep dish, with an onion, finely minced, twenty juniper berries, a bay-leaf, a dozen peppeixoms, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Let them remain in this marinade twelve hours, turning and basting them frequently. Drain the pieces of hare, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of butter. Cover the pan closely, and let them steam until tender. Take them out, and put into the stewpan half the marinade and half a pint of good, nicely- seasoned gravy. Boil the liver, mince it finely, and make a forcemeat by mixing with it a quarter of a pound of bacon, half a pound of pork, four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, some salt and pepper, a tea-spoonf-ul of minced parsley, half as much powdered thyme, and two weU-beaten eggs. Stir this over a gentle fire tmtil it is sufficiently cooked. Spread half the forcemeat on the bottom of a baking-dish, put the pieces of hare upon it, with the rest of the forcemeat between them. Pour in a quarter of a pint of the gravy, and lay two or three thin shccs of bacon over the whole. Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a haK. Boil the gravy dovsTi a little, and pour it through a hole in the lid. This pasty may be eaten either hot or cold. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 68. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Hare Pasty (another way). Cut the haro into convenient- sized pieces, and cook them partiaUy in a little good gravy. Take a pound of sausage-meat and a pound of well-chopped veal mix them together, and spread a layer of the forcemeat at the bottom of a buttered pic-dish. Put the pieces of hare upon it, and the rest of the forcemeat between them. Sprinkle over them three finely-minced shaUots, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, and a little salt and pepper. The quantity of salt used must depend upon the saltness of the bacon. Lay two or three thin slices of bacon over the whole, and pour in a quarter of a pint of blood and half a pint of the gravy in which the hare was stewed. Cover the dish with a good crust and bake in a moderate oven. This pasty may be eaten cither hot or cold. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 68. SufiScient for eight or ten persons. Hare Pepper. Cut the hare into small convenient-sized joints. Fry these in hot butter xuitil nicely browned, and with them pne onion, sliced, and three oimces of bacon, cut into dice. Take out the hare, &c., while you brown two table-spoonfuls of flour in the butter. Add gradually a pint and a half of water or stock, and, when it is smoothly mixed, put in the pieces of hare, six or eight peppercorns, the rind of half a lemon, four or five cloves, and the gravy from the dish in which the hare lay. Simmer gently for an hour or more. Put the pieces of hare into a dish, strain the gravy over them, and garnish with sKced lemon. "When the hindmost part of the hare has been ah-eady served, the inferior joints are excellent cooked thus. The head should be split in two and the liver cut into two or three pieces. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hare Pie. Skin the hare, cut it into convenient-sized joints, season these with pepper and two poimded cloves, and fry them in hot butter for ten or fifteen minutes, then put them aside to cool. Pound the hver in a mortar with four ounces of bacon, a shallot, finely minced, a tea-spoonful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Whilst pounding add the blood tiU the forcemeat is of the proper consistency, or, if blood is not liked, a glass of port or the yolk of an egg may be substituted. The head and inferior parts may be stewed for gravy, with the same seasoning which would be used for jugged hare. Line the edge of a pie-dish with good crust, arrange the hare and the forcemeat inside it in alternate layers, cover the whole with thin shces of bacon, and pour over it half a pint of the gravy, to which has been added a tea-spoonful of red currant jeUy, and, if liked, a glass of port. Bake in a good oven and serve hot. Time, an hour and a half to bake. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficieat for eight or ten persons. Hare Pie (another way). Skin a hare, cut it into smaU pieces, season them with pepper, salt, and two pounded cloves, and put them into a deep jar, which must be covered closely, placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and boiled for an hour. Line the edges of a pie HAB (304) HAR dish with good crust, put in the pieces of hare, and pour over tbem half a piat of good brown gravy and, if liked, a glass of port. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 63. Suihcient for sis or seven persons. Hare Pie, Raised. Make a crust with a pound and a half of flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter or lard, a pinch of salt, and half a pint of water. Put it aside for a little while. Cut a hare which has hung for a week or a fortnight into neat joints, and bone it, if practicable. When emptying it, be careful to preserve the blood. Mince half a pound of lean veal and half a pound of fat bacon very finely. Pound them in a mortar ; add the blood in small quantities whUst pounding. Roll the paste to the thickness of half an inch in the proper shape. Butter the mould, press the pastry into it, fill it with alternate layers of forcemeat and hare, fill the cavities , with foi-cemeat and jellied gravy, lay two or three slices ctf bacon on the top, put on the pastry cover, brush it over with beaten egg, ornament the sides and top, and make a hole in the centre. Bake for three hours. In order to ascertain whether the pie is sufficiently cooked, pierce it with a skewer. If it goes through the meat easily the pie may be taken out. Of course this can only be done when the meat is boned. No gi'avy should be put into the pie until after iit is baked. This pie is to be eaten cold. Probable cost of hare, from 3s. 6d. to 68. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Potted. Skin a hare and cut it into joints. Divide two pounds of bacon into square pieces of about two inches, and fry them in three ounces of butter. Put into the pan with them the pieces of hare, a small sprig of parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, two bayleaves, a shallot, twenty cloves, two blades of mace, a pinch of cayenne, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt, if required. Fry them for a few minutes, then moisten with half a pint of good gravy. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Drain the pieces of hare from the liquid, pick the meat from the bones, remove the skin and sinew, mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar. Mix with it the fat and bacon, also pounded, and taste if the paste is sufficiently seasoned. Add the liquid, first boiling it dovra. till it is reduced to three-quarters of a pint, and then passing it through a hair sieve. Put the mixture into jars, cover these with a coarse paste of flour and water, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. Take them out, and, when cool, cover the jars with melted lard or butter and afterVards with bladder. If prepared in this way and kept in a cool place, the hare will keep good for several weeks. Probable cost, 6s. 6d., supposing the hare to coat 3s. 6d. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Hare, Potted (from cold meat). Take the remains of cold roast hare. Pick the meat from the bones, put it, freed from skin and sinew, into a mortar, and pound till it is a smooth paste. If there is a pound of meat, mix with it a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, half a salt-spoonful of mustard, a salt-spoonful of sugar, and two cloves, pounded; also a quarter of a pint of cold gravy and four ounces of clarified butter. AVhen the ingredients are thoroughly blended, put the meat into a dish, make it smooth and even, and pour over it two ounces of melted butter. Keep it in a cool place until required for use. Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost, 6d., e.xclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hare EagOUt. Divide the hare into neat joints. Put the best parts namely, the back, shoulders, and legs into a deep dish ; pomover as much vinegar as will barely cover them, and put with them one bay-leaf, a large onion, with six cloves stuck in it, half a dozen peppercorns, and half a dozen shallots. Let them remain in the marinade for twenty-four hours. Put two ounces of butter, three sliced onions, and three tea-spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan. Set the pan upon a moderate fire, and stir well with a wooden spoon till the onions are brightly browned ; add gradually a quart of water, make the mixture quite smooth, then put with it a bunch of herbs, four allspice, a sliced carrot, the inferior pieces of hare, such as the head, neck, liver, heart, and ribs, and a quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into slices. Simmer gently for an hour. Strain the gravy, and leave it until the following day, when the fat can be removed entire. Drain the hare from the vinegar and stew it in the vinegar until tender. Add salt and pepper, if required. Serve with forcemeat balls round the dish. A glass of port is always an improvement to hare, but this may be added or not. Time, tbreequarters of an hour to stew the hare. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Roast. An old hare may+be jugged or stewed, but should never bo roasted. Choose one, therefore, not more than three-quarters grown. The longer it can be kept good the better it will be. It is best not to be opened for three or four days, and the vent and mouth may be tied up if it is wished to keep it as long as possible. As soon as it is paunched the liver and heart should be taken out and scalded, the inside wiped dry every day, and dusted ?v nth pepper, and the hare hung by the forelegs in a cool dry place. As soon as it begins to grow limp it should be cooked. If there is any suspicion that it has been kept too long, let it lie in vinegar and water for an hour before it is put to the fire. Skin and wash the hare in three or four waters, the last time in lukewarm water. Pierce the skin of the neck, and any parts where the blood has settled, with the point of a sharp knife, and hold it in lukewarm water to draw the blood out. Fill it with good forcemeat, sew it up, and truss it firmly. Put it some distance from the fire at first, and when it is hot throughout place it nearer. It must be basted constantly, or it will be dry and hard. The usual plan is to baste it with salt and water for the first quarter of an hour, then to pour this away, and use a HAR ( 305 ) HAR pint and a half of milt, and, when tliis is dried up, finish with a Httlo hutter. It is a better plan, however, to use good beef dripi)ing until the last few minutes. When the hare is nearlydone enough, flour it, and baste it with butter till it is nicely browned. The time required for roasting will depend upon its age and size. A moderate-sized hare will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and three-quarters ; a large one two hours. Take the hare up, remove the string and skewers, and send a little good brown gi'avy to table with it, and the rest in a tureen. Red currant jelly should always accompany roast hare. Probable cest, 3s. 6d. to Gs. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Roast (another way). Truss and stuff the hare as in the last recipe. Put it down before a clear fire for a few minutes, to set the flesh, then cover it all over with slices of fat pork or bacon. Roast it the usual time, and send good brown gravy and red cui-rant jelly to table with it. Time, one and a quarter to two hours. Probable cost, 33. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Roast (German way). Put a quarter of a pint of vinegar and a quarter of a pint of water into a saucepan, with a sliced onion, two bay-leaves, half a dozen peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of parsley and thyme, and three cloves. Boil the marinade, and when cold pouiit over a young hare, trussed for roasting, but not stuffed. Let it remain for twenty-four hours, and baste it frequently. Lard it, and put it down before a clear fire, or bake it in a moderate oven. Baste it with the liquid and a little butter or dripping. A little while before it is done baste it with new milk. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and garnish the dish with sliced lemon. Time, an hour and a quarter to roast. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for sLx or eight persons. Hare, Roast, Cold. Good hare soup may be made of the remains of cold roast hare. Chop it small, and put it with the stufiing and three quarts of water into a saucepan. Let it simmer gently for two houi-s. If no stuffing remains, the usual herbs and seasoning must be added. A table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a glass of red wine may be added, if liked. Sufficient for four or five persons. Hare, Roast, Liver Sauce for [sec Liver Sauce for). Hare, Roast, Mock. Take the inside lean from a sirloin of beef, or a thick rump steak weighing about three pounds, spread on it some good hare forcemeat, roll and tie it securely with tape, and fasten it on a spit. Roast it before a clear fire, baste liberally, and send good brown gravy' and red currant jeUy to table with it. Time, about an hour to roast. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hare, Roast, To Carve. Insert the point of the knife under the shoulder, and cut from that down to the rump, along the sides of the backbone. The slices should be moderately thick. Another way of carving hare is to remove the shoulders and legs, and cut the back crosswise into four or fire pieces. This, however, can only be done when the haro is very young, or when it has been boned. When cooking is set about on a grand scale, the backbone of hares, and especially of old hares, is usually taken out, thus rendering the labour of cai-ring much easier. To separate the leg, put the knife between the leg and the back, and give it a little turn inwards at the KOASr HARE. joint, which you must try to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders must be taken off by cutting in a circular line round them. These last are known as the sportsman's pieces ; some prefer them, but generally they are thought little of, and are served only when the other portions of the hare are exhausted. The most delicate part is the back ; after that come the thighs. When every one is helped, take off the head. The upper and lower jaw should be divided by inserting the knife between them ; this wiU enable you to lay the upper part of the head conveniently on the plate. That being done, cut it in two. The ears and brains are highly-prized by connoisseurs. With each slice of hare some of the stuffing should be served. And some of the grarvj should accompany it. This is an important point, for roast hare is naturally dryish, and requires the aid of plenty of gravy to be properly relished. Hare, Sauce for. Criunble three ounces of bread as if for bread sauce. Let it soak in port wine, and, when quite soft, beat it over the fire with an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of red currant jelly, a little salt, and a tablespoonful of chilli vinegar. Serve as hot as possible. Time, a few minutes after the bread is soaked. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Hare, Sauce for (another way). Fry a sliced carrot and a sliced onion in a little butter until lightly browned. Pour over them half a pint of brown sauce, nicely seasoned, add a blade of mace, a little salt and pepper, if necessary, and a quarter of a pint of stock, and simmer gently for half an hour. Strain the gravy, stir into it two table-spoonfuls of red ciuTant jelly and a table-spoonful of vinegar, and serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six petrsons. Hare Scollops (French). Cut the fiUet or meaty part of the back of a hare into pieces half an inch thick and two inches wide. Put them with two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and fry them until Hghtlj browned. Pour oflE the butter, and put half a pint of good brown HAR ( 306 ) HAS, sauce into the pan ; thicken it with three tahlcspoonfuls of the blood of the hare. Simmer gently for twenty minutes. Add a glass of port or Bm-gundy. Put the scollops into a croustade (see Croustadc) on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the hare and wine. Sufficient for two or three persons. Hare Soup. Take a fine hare, skin and empty it, cut it into joints, take out the eyes, spht the head in two, and put it, with two pounds of the shin of beef, cut into small pieces, into a saucepan, with a gallon of cold water. Eemove the scum as it rises, and, when the water boils, put with it two onions, with three cloves in each, two or three sliced carrots, half a dozen peppercorns, and haK a drachm of bruised celery-soed, tied in muslin. Let the soup simmer very gently for two hours, then take out the best joints, remove the meat from the bones, return the latter to the stewpan, and simmer again for another hour, during the latter part of whicli a dessert-spoonful of salt and a bimch of sweet herbs, tied in muslin, may be added. If these are put into the soup too soon, their flavour will evaporate. Fry two chopped onions in a little butter, mix very smoothly with them two table-spoonfuls of ground rice or flour, moisten with a little of the liquid, then add it to the rest. After it has boiled, strain it through a colander, pick off the meat from the pieces of hare which were left in the soup, pound it in a mortar, pass it through a coarse sieve, and return it to the liquid ; put in the pieces of hare which were set aside, and when they are thoroughly heated, add the blood of the hare, if this is liked. A little of the soup must be mixed with the blood at first, and it must then be added to the rest. The soup must only simmer a few minutes after the blood is added, for fear it should curdle. The addition of the blood is considered by many a great improvement, but by others is strongly objected to. Add a quarter of a pint of pert, and serve vsdth forcemeat balls in the tureen. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 2s. per quart, supposing the hare to cost 3 s. 6d. Hare Soup, (another and a richer way). Cut a hare into neat joints, and put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, half a pound of lean ham, cut small, two sliced carrots, two sliced onions, a sprig each of parsley, marjoram, and thyme, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, a bay-le af, and four shallots. Fry them for three or four minutes. Pour over them three quarts of good stock, and simmer gently for two hours from the time when the soup boils, being careful to clear ofiithescum as it rises. Strain the soup. Remove the meat from the back of the hare, and put it aside. Pick off all the rest from the bones, and pound it and the ham in a mortar, with two ounces of stale bread-crumbs, which have been soaked in the liquid. Pass the paste through a sieve, mix it with half a pint of port, return it to the saucepan, and simmer a quarter of an hour longer. Season with salt and cayenne according to taste, put in the pieces from the back, and, when these are hot, serve immediately. Time, altogether, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Hare Soup (French). Skin and wash a young hare, and cut it into small pieces. Take care of the blood, and put the pieces of hare into a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, a sUced onion, a bunch each of parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Fry these over a quick fire until lightly browned, but take care they do not burn. Pour over them two quarts of broth, and simmer gently for an hour and a hali, or until the meat is quite tender. Strain the soup, put the best pieces in a stevrpan to keep warm, and pick the meat from the inferior joints. Pound this in a mortar, and mix with it two ounces of the stale crumb of bread, which has been soaked in a little of the liquid. Pass the whole tlirough a sieve, and retui'n it to the . soup. Add a glass of claret, and the strained blood of the hare, if this is liked. Put the pieces of meat back into. the soup, add salt and cayenne to taste, and, when it is quite hot, Tsithout boiling, serve at once. Time, three hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per quart, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hare Soup; Mock. Takeji bullock's heart. "Wash and clean it, cut away the fat, pipes, &c., and soak it in vinegar and water for twelve houra. Drain the water from it, and cut it into slices, place these in a deep jar which has a closely-fitting lid belonging to it, and jpour over it three quarts of water. Add a large onion stuck with six cloves, a small limip of sugar, half a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of savoury herbs, a piece of bread toasted till it is brown and hard, and two ounces of butter, rolled in flour. Place the lid on the jar, put it into a saucepan of boihng water, and let it remain for five or six hours. The water in the saucepan must be replenished as it boils away, and it must never be so high that it ?Nvill reach to the top of the jar. If at the end of five hours the meat is quite tender, take it up ; if not, let it remain another hour. Pound it in a mortar with the toasted bread, pass it through a sieve, and mix it again with the gravy. Season it with salt and a little cayenne, and add more thickening, if required. A glass of port is an improvement. Probable cost of bullock's heart, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Stewing. Cut up a hare into neat joints. Put these into a stewpan with a pint and a half of good gravy, fo'or ounces of raw ham, cut into dice, four shallots, a sprig of parsley and thyme, the liver, finely minced, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and two ounces of butter rolled in flour. Stew gently for an hour and a haK. Strain the gravy. Put it, with the hare, back into the saucepan, add a glass of port or claret and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, smoothly mixed with a dessert-spoonful of ground rice ; add a little salt, if required ; simmer a quarter of an hour longer, and serve as hot as possible; fried forcemeat baUs, may be placed round the HAB, (307) HAR dish, or not. ProbaMo cost, from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare, Trussing. Clean the vent, and rinse it well with lukewarm water. Wipe the inside, fill it with forcemeat, and sew it up securely. Cut off the fore-legs at the first joint, and the sinews under the legs, and bring both the hind and fore-legs forward towards the head. Fasten them close to the body with a skewer run through them and the body as well. Keep the head back with a skewer put in the mouth through the head, and between the shoulders. Skin the ears, and leave them entire. Pass a string round the body, from skewer to skewer, and fasten it over the back. Hare, Wine Sauce for. Take three table-spoonfuls of good unflavoured gravy. Mix with it three table-spoonfuls of claret, put it on the fire, and stir iuto it one table-spoonful of red currant jelly. When quite hot, serve as quickly as possible. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for three persons. Hare, with TTouilles {see Kouillcs, with Hare) . Haricot Beans. This vegetable, which is cheap, nourishing, and easUy cooked, is not nearly so well known as it deserve* to be. It is commonly used, and largely cultivated on the Continent ; elsewhere it is generally sold in a dried state. The only secret in connection with it, is to soak the beans in plenty of cold water for several hours before they are used, and then to put them into a saucepan, with cold water, to sinmier gently until tender. After soaking the beans will have become considerably larger. They can be bought at the com and flour shops, for 4d. and 6d. per quart, and if purchased ia large quantities are generally sold cheaper. The}' should be stored in a dry place, but it is well not to keep them longer than twelve months, or there is a danger of their becoming musty. Haricot Beans {see also Beans, Haricot). Haricot Beans, To Boil. Wash and pick the beans, and soak them in cold water over-night. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, add a pinch of salt, and let them simmer gently until tender. Pour the water from them, let them stand by the fire, shaking them once or twice to assist their drying, then add a small piece of butter, and a Little pepper and salt, and serve as hot as possible. Time, two hours to boil. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufcient, one pint for tlirce or four pefsons. Haricot Beans, To Boil (a la Maitre d'Hotel). When hfiricot beans can be obtained fresh, they should be cooked as follows : Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, with half a tea- spoonful of salt. When boiling, throw into it one pint of freshly-shelled beans, and let them simmer gently until soft. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a httle pepper and salt, a dessert-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juioe. Shake the saucepan over the fire, till they are well mixed, and serve as hot as possible. Time, an hour and a half to boH. Probable cost uncertain. Sufficient for two or three persons. Haricot Beans, To Boil (another way). Soak and boil a quart of the beans, as in tte last recipe but one. Drain them, and keep them hot. Mix an oimce of flour veiy smoothly over the fire with two ounces of fresh butter, add a quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a little salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. Put in the beans, shake the saucepan over the fire till they are well mixed with the sauce, and serve as hot as possible. The flour and gravy may be omitted, and a little lemon-juice squeezed over the beans just before serving, as directed for Haricot Beans, a la Maitre d'Hotel. Time, two hours to boil the beans. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Sufficient, one quart for eight or ten persons. Haric9t Beans, To Stew. Soak and boil four pints of beans in the usual way. Drain and dry them. Cut four ounces of bacon into dice, pour some boiling water on it for seven or eight minutes, then put it into a stewpan. Shake the pan over the fire till the bacon is lightly browned, pour over it a quarter of a pint of brown gravy, thickened with flour, and a finely-minced onion. Season with pepper and salt, and simmer for a quarter of an hour. Add the beans, let them stew a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. Time, an hour and a haK to boil the beans. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Sufficient for four persons. Haricot Beans with Onions. Wash a pint of beans in two or thi'ee waters, pick out any discoloured ones that there may be, and leave them to soak in plenty of cold wat.er until the next day. Drain them, and boil them in fresh water until they are tender, but unbroken. Drain them once more, and put them on a dish in the oven to keep warm. Take three ounces of onions, which have been three-parts boiled and chopped small, fry these in two ounces of butter, and, whilst frying, mix with them the boiled beans. Stir them about with a fork, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy, rather highly seasoned. This is an excellent accompaniment to roast meat. Time, an hour and a half to boil the beans. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Sufficient forfoiir or five Haricot Beef, Australian (see Australian Haricot Beef). Haricot Mutton (a good family dish). Take three pounds of the neck of mutton, divide it into cutlets, trim them neatly, and fry them in a little dripping till nicely browned, and with them three carrots, two turnips, and an onion, all sliced. Drain them from the fat, and put them into a saucepan. Pour over them a quart of water, which has been boiled in the pan in which the meat, &c., was fried, and thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Skim carefully, and season with salt and pepper according to taste, and a little ketchup. Simmer for an hour. Serve with the meat in the middle of the dish, the vegetables round it, and the gravy poured over all. A few sippets of toasted bread may HAR ( 308 ) HAR at the bottom of the dish, or served as a garnish. A few haricot beans (see Haricot Beans, to Boil) are a great improvement. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Haricot Mutton (a la Bourgeoise). Divide three pounds of the neck or breast of mutton into neat cutlets, and fry them in a little dripping tiU. they are lightly browned. Pour over them a pint and a half erf boiling stock, or, failing this, water, and add a large onion, stuck with three or four cloves, a bunch of parsley, and three or four peppercorns. Sinmier gently for three-quarters of an hour. Strain the gravy, put it back into the saucepan, and with it a dozen turnips, cut into balls, and already stewed in a little gravy. Serve the turnips in the same dish with the mutton and the gravy. If preferred, potatoes may be substituted for the turnips, as in Haricot, Normandy, but they must be kept whole, or the appearance of the dish will be spoilt. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Haricot, Normandy. Take two pounds of veal from the fillet, cut it into slices three- 7) Harrogate Punch. Pour two table. quarters of an inch in thickness, and divide these into neat pieces three inches long by two inches broad. Beat them flat with a cutlet bat, season them with pepper and salt, diji them in flour, and fry them to a light brown in a little butter, and with three or four slices of loan ham. Lift them into a saucepan, pour over them a pint of boiling gravy, and add a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. Let them simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour ; draw the saucepan to the side, and put three pounds of new potatoes, or old ones cut in half, in the pan with them, and simmer again until the potatoes are sufficiently cooked. Serve as hot as possible, and send young green peas, French beans, or stewed carrots to table with them. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Haricot of Roebuck. Take four pounds of the neck of a roebuck, divide it into cutlets about an inch in thickness, and fry these in hot dripping till brightly bro-mied. Draw them from the fat, put them into a clean saucepan, and pour over them as much boiling stock I or water as will cover the meat. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, and, when the gravy boils, put "with it two or three carrots, turnips, and onions, all cut into small pieces, and fried for three or four minutes in the fat which was used for the meat. Simmer gently for an hour. Season with pepper and salt, and thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter. Just before serving, dissolve two table-spoonfuls of red currant jelly in the sauce, and add a quarter of a pint of port or claret. Time, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 4d. or Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Haricots, Green, To Preserve. In order to preserve these vegetables for winter use, gather them on a dry day, and put them at once into -n-ide-mouthed liottlcs, cork securely, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. Let them remain in the water for an hour after it boils, tie a bladder oyer the corks, and keep the bottles in a dry place. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Harrogate Pudding (sometimes called Warwickshire Pudding). Beat three ounces of fi-esh butter to a cream, work in with it three ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, three ounces of fine flour, half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, finely minced, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Stir those ingredients brisklytogether, and add a table-spoonful of thick cream, three eggs, well beaten, and a tablespoonful of brandy. Beat all together for ten minutes, pour the mixture into well-buttered cups, and bake in a good oven. Soak the rind of a lemon in half a pint of water, with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, until the flavour is extracted. Let the water boil, and, when cool, add a table-spoonful of brandy, the juice of the lemon, and a few drops of cochineal. Turn the puddings out, pour the sauce round them, sift a little sugar over, and serve immediately. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. spoonfuls of strained lemon-juice over four table-spoonfuls of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, mix them well together with a wooden spoon, and add twelve wine-glassfuls of cold water. When the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, add haH a tumblerful of riun, and serve at once. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. exclusive of the rum. Sufficient for two or three persons. Harrogate Sauce. Mince the rind of half a lemon and a shallot very finely, and pour over them a table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup, add half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and three grains of cayenne, and let them infuse for half an hour. Mix a table-spo*nful of boiling water with the gravy which comea from the fowl, put it into a saucepan with the other ingredients, and simmer for ton minutes. Add a wine-glassful of claret, strain, and serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 3d., exclusira of the wine. Sufficient for three or four persons. Harslet, Pig's. Wash the heart, lights, liver, and sweetbread in lukewarm water, and boil them gently for half an hour. Take them out, drain them, cut them into neat slices, season with a little pepper and salt, and dredge some flour over them. Fry them in a little hot dripping or lard, and with them haK a pound of streaky bacon, also sliced. Garnish with fried parsley. IMix a tea-spoonful of made mustard with half a tea-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. Stir this into three table-spoonfuls of boiling gravy, add three table-spoonfuls of claret, and serve the sauce in a tureen. If preferred, the harslet may be stewed with half a pint of gravy and a sliced onion. Time, ten minutes to fry the meat. Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hartshorn Jelly. Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in four pints of water for HAR ( 309 ) HAS three hours. Strain through a jelly-bag and boil it again for half an hour with the thin rind of two lemons and one orange. When cool, add the juice, half a pound of sugar, a wineglassful of brandy, and the beaten whites and crushed shells of six eggs. Boil the jelly again for a few minutes without stirring, and strain it until it is quite clear. Eight ounces of isinglass may be dissolved in it if it does not seem likely to stiffen. The above quantities are sufficient for nearly three pints of jelly. Harvey's, or Camp Vinegar. Mince a clove of garlic very finely. Add six chopped anchovies, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, three table-spoonfuls of Indian soy, three of mushroom or walnut ketchup. Put these into a quart of the best vinegar, and let them soak for about a month, shaking them frequently. Strain thi-ough muslin, and bottle for use. The probable cost will be Is. per pint. One dessertspoonful may be added to a pint of sauce or gravy. Hash, Beef {see Beef, Hash). Hash, Cold Beef or Mutton. Cut one pound of cold meat into neat slices, free from skin and gristle. Put a large onion, finely minced, into a saucepan, and with it two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir over the fire until the ingredients are smoothly mixed and brown, being careful that they do not burn. Add gradually half a pint of good stock or water, and the bones and trimmings, and siromer gently until the sauce is as thick as cream. Strain it, put in the pieces of meat, and let them remain until they are quite hot, but the sauce must not boil after the meat is added, or it will be hard. A hash may be varied by the addition of finely -minced green pickles, a dozen stewed mushrooms, or half a dozen tomatoes, but these should be added to the sauce before the meat is put in, so that there will be no necessity for its remaining in the gravy too long. Serve with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for two or three persons. Hash, Common. Cut a poimd of mutton into thin slices. Season with salt and pepper, and dredge a little flour over them. Stew a finely-minced onion in half a pint of stock or water for thirty minutes. Flavour it vdih. a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Put in the pieces of mutton, stew gently for two or three minutes, till the flour has thickened the sauce and lost its raw taste, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three persons. Hash, Superior. Peel two dozen buttononions, dredge them with flour, and fry them with two ounces of butter till they are brightly bro vned. Pour over them half a pint of good broth, add a little salt and pepper, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and either a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup or a few stewed mushrooms, and simmer gently until the onions are quite tender. Pour the gravy over the slices of meat, and let them remain until required. Put the contents of the dish into a saucepan, and let them get as hot as possible without boiling. Serve immediately. A glass of claret or port is an improvement. Time, an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hashes, Gravy for {see Gravy for Hashes). Hashes, Sauce for. The following store sauce will be found useful to improve the flavour of gravies for hashes and rechauffes. Put four chopped anchovies, an eighth of a pint of vinegar, two blades of mace, a bay-leaf, two pounded cloves, a minced onion, a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a tea-spoonful of scraped horseradish, into a saucepan, and simmer gently until the anchovies are dissolved. Add half a pint of claret, simmer ten minutes longer, strain and bottle for use. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Hasty Pudding. Put a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and, when the milk is just boiling up, sprinkle some fine flour with the left hand, and beat well with a fork with the right, to keep the flour from getting in lumps. Continue until the pudding is like a stiff thick batter, which it will be when about haK a pound of flour has been used. Let it boil flve or six minutes longer, beating it all the time ; then turn it into a dish with two or three ounces of fresh butter, and serve immediately. Unless the milk is quite boiling when the flour is first put in no amoimt of boiling afterwards will prevent the pudding tasting pasty. Treacle, sugar, thick cream, or jam may be eaten with this pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hasty Pudding (another way). Begin as in the last recipe. When the flour has been well mixed with the milk, add four wellbeaten eggs. Beat all over the flre five minutes longer, and serve as before. Time, a quarter of an hour after the milk boils. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hasty Pudding, Baked. Mix two ounces of flour in a pint of boiling milk. Beat it over the fire till it is as stifP as batter, then pour it out, sweeten and flavour according to taste, and add an ounce of fresh 'kuttor. When cold, stir in three well-beaten egg-s. Spread a little marmalade or jam at the bottom of a dfeep pie-dish. Pour in the mixture and bake in a good oven. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Hasty Pudding, Oatmeal {se Oatmeal Hasty Pudding). Hasty Pudding, or Farmer's Rice. Mix a well-beaten egg with as much flour as it will moisten. Rub it between the hands until it is in small dry lumps, like bread-crumbs. Stir those into a quart of boiling milk, and beat over the fire until the pudding is thick and smooth. Serve with treacle, butter, sugar, or cream. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hasty Puffs. Stir two ounces of flour quickly and smoothly into half a pint of boiling HAT ( 310 ) HEA milk which, has boen sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind or nutmeg. Boil up, then add two ounces of butter, and, when cool, two eggs, well beaten. Butter four small moulds. Pour a quarter of the mixture into each, and bake in a good oven. Turn out before serving, and place a little jam on the top of each puff. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufhcient for four persons. Hattered Kit. Pour a quart of new milk, boiling hot, upon two quai-ts of fresh buttermillv. Ijot it remain untouched until firm. Lift off the top, and drain the rest over a sieve. If it is to be served at table, it should be put into a mould a Kttle while before using. Send a Uttle cream, sweetened and flavoured, to table with it. No more of this dish should be made at once than is likely to be used, as it quickly spoils. Time, four or five hours. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hawthorn Liquor (for seasoning puddings and sweet dishes). Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with blossoms of the white hawthorn, which have been gathered on a dry day. Shake them together, but do not press them down. Fill the bottle with good brandy, let the hawthorn infuse for three months, then strain off the liquor, pour it into small bottles, and cork securely. Half a tea-spoonful of hawthorn liquor will flavour a pint of custard. Hazel-nut Cakes. Mince two ounces of hazel-nuts and half an ounce of sweet almonds very -finely. Add three ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and as much flour as will bind them together. Roll the paste out till it is a quarter of an inch thick, stamp it out in small round cakes, place these on well-buttered tins, and bake in a slow oven. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d. Sufiicient for sLx or eight cakes. Heart, Bullock's. AVash the heart in several waters, clean the blood carefully from the pipes, and put it to soak in \'inegar and water for five or six hours. Drain it, and fill it either with hare forcemeat or sage-and-onion etufling. Fasten it securely, tie it in a cloth, put it into a pan of boihng water, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Take off the cloth, and roast the heart while hot, basting it plentifully, with good di'ipping for two houi's longer. Serve vdth good brown gravy and currant jelly, if veal forcemeat has been used, and apply jelly if the heart has been stuffed with sago and onions. The stewing may be omitted, and the heart simply roasted for three or four hours, but the flesh will not then be so tender. Probable cost of heart, 2s. 6d. Sufiicient for six or seven persons. Heart. Bullock's, Hashed- Take the remains of a bullock's heart, and cut it into neat 3. Put half a pint of good gravy, that which was served with the heart will answer excellently ; mix with it a quarter of a pint of port, claret, or ale, and thicken it with a little flour, mixed smoothly in a small quantity of w ater. Let it boil for a few minutes, then dissolve a table-spoonful of red currant jelly in it, put in the slices of heart, and, when these are heated through, serve immediately, with toasted sippets to garnish the dish. The gravy must not boil after the slices of heart are added. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat and wine, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Heart, Bullock's, Stewed. Prepare a heart as in the last recipe. Soak it in vinegar and water, fill it with hare forcemeat, and put it in a saucepan, the broad end uppermost, and with it a sliced turnip and carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne. Pour over the heart a pint of good stock, or, failing this, water, and haH a pint of beer. Cover the pan closely, and when the liquid has once boiled, draw it a little to the side, and simmer gently for five hours. Send the gravy in which it was stewed to table with it. Probable cost of heart, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Heart, Calf S. Wash the heart very clean, soak it in vinegar and water, fill it with a forcemeat made of four ounces of crumb of bread, two ounces of butter, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, and a little salt and cayenne. Fasten the heart securely and roast before a clear Sfe for nearly three hours. Serve it with half a pint of good melted butter mixed with a table-spoonful of -iemon-juice or vinegar. A calf's heart is improved by partially boiling it before it is roasted. It may be baked, if more convenient, in a good oven, but in either case should be liberally basted. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Heart, Calfs (another way). Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and fry these in a little hot dripping or butter. About five minutes before they are done put a slice of bacon into the pan for each slice of heart, and when they are sufficiently cooked serve on a hot dish, and cover each piece of heart with a slice of bacon. Boil two or tbree table-spoonfuls of thin flour and water in the pan in which the meal was fried. Season it with pepper and salt, add one table-spoonful of red curra,nt jelly, and serve as hot as possible. Time, fifteen minutes to fry the slices of heart. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Heart, Sheep's, Baked. Wash two or three sheep's hearts in lukewarm water, fill them with veal forcemeat, and skewer them securely. Fasten a' rasher of fat bacon roimd each, place them in a deep dish, and with them one pmt of good stock, and an onion stuck with two cloves. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Draw oft' the gravy. Thicken with a little flour and butter, and flavour it with pepper and salt and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup. Put the hearts on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and send red currant jeUy with them to table. HEA ( 311 ) Probable cost, 8cl. each. Sufficient, two for four persons. Hearts, Sheep's, with Batter Pudding. Prepare two hearts as in the last recipe. Bake them for one hour; then drain them from the gravy, put them into a deep, well-buttered pie-dish, and pour round them a batter made thus : Mix four heaped tablespoonfuls of fine flour smoothly with a quarter of a pint of milk and water. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs, a pinch of salt, and, when the flour is quite smooth and free fi'om lumps, another quarter of a pint of milk. Let this be made, if possible, an hour before the batter is wanted. Just before putting it in the oven stir in the whites of the eggs well wMsked. Bake until the pudding is done enough. Thicken and flavour the gravy in which the meat was stewed, and send it to table in a tureen. Time, two hours. Probable cost, about la. lOd. It will be sufficient for four or five persons. Hebe's Cup {see Heidelburg Punch). Hedgehog, Apple {see Apple Hedgehog). Hedgehog Pudding. Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a poimd of flour, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, half a pound of raisins, half a pound of sugar, one ounce each of candied lemon, orange, and citron, haK a nutmeg grated, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a small pinch of salt, three or four sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, four eggs, and as much ale as will make the pudding into a stiff paste. Mix the dry ingredients first ; afterwards add the eggs and ale. Tie the pudding in a cloth, plunge it into boiling ?water, and keep it boUing for five hours. Have ready three ounces of blanched almonds. Stick them into the pudding before sending it to table, , and serve with brandy sauce. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Heidelberg Punch, or Hebe's Cup. Take a fresh fi-amc-gi-own cucumber. Cut an inch and a half of it into thin slices, and put them into a punch-bowl with the thin rind of a sound lemon and three table-spoonfuls of ppunded sugar. Work them well together for four or five minutes with the back of a wooden spoon ; then pour over them three table-spoonfuls of brandy, six of sherry, a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of claret. 5Iix these ingredients thoroughly, and let them remain for one hour. Just before serving add another bottle of sodawater. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the i spirits and wine. Sufficient for a three-pint bowl. Henriette Pudding, or Helena Pudding. Pour throe-quarters of a pint of boiling milk over two ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs. Soak for half an hour, then beat -with a fork, add one table-spoonful of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a large egg, two ounces of finely-chopped candied lemon, and the yolks of three well-beaten eggs. Spread a httle apricot or currant jam at the Iwttom of a pie -dish ; at the last moment add the whites of two of the eggs well ?whisked, pour in the mixture, and bake in a gentle oven for half an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost. Is. Herb Klosse, or Forcemeat Balls. Prepare the herbs as in the following recipe, using double the quantity of spinach to that of any other herb. Mince them finely. Soak two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs in a little milk. Squeeze it dry, and mix it with six ounces of grated potatoes which have been boiled some hours before. Add a table-spoonful of flour, three well-beaten eggs, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a Little pepper and salt, and the minced herbs. Stir all well together with a fork. Handle the forcemeat as lightly as possible, and when shaping it dip the hands in cold water, and wet the spoon with which it is taken up. Form it into balls the size of a, Ivrge walnut, di-op them into boiHng water, and let them boil ten minutes. Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan, and stir a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs in it. Drain the klosse, sprinlvlo the bread-crumbs over them, and serve immediately. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Herb Pudding or Pie. Take two handfuls of parsley-leaves, one of spinach, one of mustard and cress, one of white beet-leaves, one of fincly-sHced lettuce-hearts, thi-ee or four leaves of borage, and a dozen chives. Wash these herbs well, and boil them for three or four minutes. Drain the water from them, chop them small, season with salt and pc ppcr, and spread them in a buttered dish. Make a batter with five table-spoonfuls of flour and a pinch of salt, mixed smoothly with two eggs and as much milk as will bring it to the consistence of thick cream. Pour this over the herbs, stir all well together, cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, one hour and a half to bake. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 8d. Herb Sauce. Take two parts of parsley to one of chervil and chives, chop them finely, and pour over as much vinegar as will rather more than cover them. Let them infuse at least an hour, to draw out the flavour of the herbs. This is the usual accompaniment on the Continent to boiled calf's head. A small quantity of other herbs, such as thj-me, marjoram, basU, or eage, may be used, if the flavour is liked, but they are not generally included in herb sauce properly so called. Probable cost, 6d. per haK-pint. Sufficient for four or five pei-sons. Herb Sauce (another way). Pick and wash the herbs. Take two bunches of parsley to one of fennel and one of mint, boil them for three or four minutes, drain and mince them finely, and stir them into half a pint of boiHng melted butter. Let the sauce boiliip, t]\onpour it into a tureen, add a little salt, and a tablespoonful of lemon- juice, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Herb Sauce (for flavouring) . Slice a stick of horseradish very finely, and with it two shallots, and a clove of garlic. Strip the leaves from a sprig of thyme, basO, marjoram, ( 312) HER winter savoury, and parsley, and put all into a saucepan. Pour over them four table-spoonfuls ?f vinegar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of cold water. Add a dozen peppercorns, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a drachm of bruised celery-seed, a leaf of tarragon, a dessert-spoonful of salt. Bring the sauce to a boil, coloiir rather darkly with burnt sugar, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag, and, when cold, put it into bottles, and cork securely until wanted for use. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one pint and a quarter. Herb Soup. Take a handful each of chervil, parsley, spinach, and sorrel, and half a dozen young cabbage lettuces. Wash, drain, and shred them finely, and put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, two or three sliced carrots, and a little pepper and salt. Let them steam for half an hour, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent burning. Pour in three quarts of clear soup, and simmer for twenty minutes. Add a little grated nutmeg. Strain the soup, beat the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of milk, and stir it in gently just before serving. This soup may be varied by the addition of a quart of green peas, a cucumber cut into slices and fried in butter, or a few onions. WTien peas are put in, however, the sorrel should be omitted. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Herbs and Spices, Aromatic Seasoning of {see .(Vi-omatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices) . Herbs, Aromatic Powdered, for Seasoning. Dry and pick away the stalks from three ounces of thyme, three ounces of marjoram, three ounces of basil, one ounce of bay-leaves, and two ounces of winter savouiy ; put them into a mortar, and with them two cloves of garlic finely minced, half an ounce of grated lemon-peel, haK an ounce of cayenne pepper, one ounce of nutmeg, grated, one ounce of powdered mace, two ounces of peppercorns, and two ounces of cloves. Pound all thoroughly in a mortar, pass the powder through a wire sieve, and put it into bottles, which must be securely corked until wanted. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quan- tity. Half a tea-spoonful is enough for one pint of sauce. j Herbs, Bunch of Sweet. A bunch of ? sweet herbs, which is often mentioned in I recipes for soups, stews, &c., consists of two sprigs of parsley, one of orange or lemon thyme, and one bay-leaf, ?r two sprigs of parsley, one of sweet marjoram, one of winter savoury, and one of lemon-thyme. These herbs should be fastened securely together with thread; they can then be easily removed before the dish is served. Herbs, Chopping. Pick off the leaves, wash and dry them in a Dutch oven as quickly as possible without burning them. Hold the leaves fii-mly in the left hand, and cut them through very finely with a sharp knife. Turn the long shreds round, and cut them finely the other way ; then finish by chopping with both hands with the knife. Herbs, Drying and Storing for Winter use. Gather the herbs on a dry day. They are at their greatest perfection just before they begin to flower. Cleanse them immediately, cut off the roots, divide them into small bunches, and dry them in a Dutch oven before the fire, or lay them on dishes in a moderate oven. If this is not convenient, they may bo divided into bimches, and laid on sheets of paper in the sun, but the more quickly they are dried the better will be their flavour. Care must be taken that they do not burn. When dry, it is usual to tie the herbs in paper bags, and keep them hanging in a dry place until wanted, but it is much the better plan to pick off the leaves, pound them in a mortar, pass them through a sieve, and the powder into bottles, which must be kept closely corked. The different herbs should be gathered and dried in the following months : Basil. The middle of August. Burnet. June, July, and August. Chervil. May, Jime, and July. Elder Flower. May, June, and July. Fennel. May, June, and July. Knotted Marjoram. July. Mint. The latter end of June and July. Parsley. May, June, and July. Sage. August, and September. Savoury, Summer. The latter end of July and August. Savoury, Winter. End of July and August. Tarragon. June, July, and August. Thyme. End of July and August. Thyme, Lemon. End of July and August. Thyme, Orange. June and July. Herbs, Essence of, for Seasoning. Squeeze the juice from four fresh lemons, strain it, and put it into an earthenware jar, and with it a bottle of white wine, and half a pint of vinegar. Add a drachm each of powdered cloves, mace, basU, thyme, and nutmeg, also an ounce of dried parsley, half a pound of salt, and two ounces of pepper. Put the pan in the oven, and bring the contents to the point of boiling, then put on the cover, and keep them simmering gently for four hours. Strain tke liquid, filter it through blotting-paper, and keep it in closely stoppered bottles tUl wanted for use. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the wine. Three drops of the es?enco are about enough for a pint. Taste, and add more if required. Herbs, Fried. Pick, wash, drain, and finely mince two handfuls of spinach, one of parsley, and four or five yoTing onions. Put them into a stc'W'pan, with a pinch of salt, one ounce of butter, and one table-spoonful of broth. Put on the lid and stew them gently, shaking the pan frequently, and be careful they do not burn. Fried herbs are often served as an accompaniment to calf's liver. Time, ten or fifteen minutes. ProbaMe cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Herbs, Lamb Chops with {see Lamb Chops with Herbs). Herbs, Powder of Weigh the leaves of the dried herbs {see Herbs, Drying and Storing for Winter use), after they are separated from the stalks. Take two ounces of lemon-thyme, HER ( 31M HER two of sweet marjoram, two of winter savoury, two of basil, four of dried parsley, and one ounce of finely-minced lemon-rind. Pound tlicse thorouf -liiy in a mortar, sift the powder through a wire sieve, and keep it in bottles closel}- stoppered for use. Herbs, Vinegar of. The flavom- of herbs may be extracted by being soaked in vinegar, and in this form may be used for soups and sauces, when fi-esh herbs cannot be obtained. Gather the herbs on a dry day, and at the proper season. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and fill a wide-mouthed bottle vith them. The ?leaves may be shaken together, but mu.st not be pressed down. Pour the best pickling vinegar over them, let them infuse for a month, then strain and bottle for use. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Herbs, Wines of. Herbs may be infused in wine instead of vinegar, and when this is tlone, the essence will be found useful for those dishes in which the acidity imparted by vinegar is not required. Proceed as with vinegar [see the preceding recipe) , using sherry, claret, or any light wine to fill the bottle. As wine is stronger than vinegar, a fortnight will be found sufficient to extract the flavom-. Time, about two weeks to infuse. Her Majesty's Pudding. Flavour half a pint of cream or new milk with half an ounce of pounded ahnonds, or if preferred; a little lemon or ratafia flavouring. Simmer gently, -and when lukewarm, pour the milk gi-aduaUy over two well-beaten eggs. Stir it over the fire for a minute or two, until it begins to thicken, then take it off and sweeten it, and when quite cool pour it into a buttered mould which has been lined \\-ith a small spongecake, previously sliced and soaked in sherry. Place a cover on the mould and steam the pudding. When done enough, let it stand a minute or two before fuming it out, and ornament with crystallised fruit of different colours. Time, three-quarters of an hour to .steam. Probable cost, 8d.,if made with milk. Sufficient for two persons. Herodotus Pudding, or Hilton Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of .suet very finely, mix with it five ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and five ounces of good figs minced as small as possible. Add a pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two eggs w-ell beaten. Beat the mixture with a fork, pour it into a buttered mould, tie it in a cloth, and boil it for thi-ee hours. Send brandied sauce to table in a tureen. Probalile cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Herrings. This delicate and delicious fish, -which visits the British Islands in shoals from the end of May to October, may be cooked in many ways, for all of which recipes will be given. In the beginning of the season the fish is rather oily, and therefore is sometimes found to be too rich for the delicate stomach, but this oiliness disappears after a few weeks, and the hemng is then most nourishing and wholesome. Herrings, Dutch, Pried. Wash the herrings, and soak them in milk for a couple of 21 hours. Drain and dry them ; cut off the fins, dip them in flom-, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in hot fat. Send potatoes in any form to table with them. Time, seven or eight minutes to iiy. Probable cost, two for l d. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Baked. Scale and clean the herrings carefully, \'ithout washing them. Cut off the heads, and take out the backbone. Sprinkle a little salt, pep23er, and pounded mace over them, both inside and out, lay them in a deep baking-dish, and arrange the roes at the top. Cover them with vinegar and water in equal proportions, and put three or four bay-leaves or cloves into the liquid. Bake for an hour. They are much better eaten cold than hot. When the backbone is removed they may be neatly rolled before baking. Probable cost, two for l d. Sufficient, half a dozen for tlu-ee persons. Herrings, Fresh, Boiled. Few fish are more delicious than fresh herrings boiled. Wash, scale, and gut them, sprinkle a Uttle salt over them, and dip them once quickly in vinegar ; skewer them secui-ely with their tails in their mouths, put them into boiling water, and simmer ver ' gently until done enough, when they must be taken out immediately. Drain the water from them, and arrange them neatly on a dish; garnish with parsley or scraped horseradish, and send shrimp, anchovy, or parsley sauce to table in a tureen. Time, about twelve minutes to boil. Probable cost, two for Ijd. Sufficient, half a dozen for thi-ee persons. Herrings, Fresh, Broiled. Fresh herrings are better for broiling when they have been salted for a night, as this both renders them firmer and improves their flavour". Scale and gut the fish without opening them, score them to the bone in two or tliree places, dredge a little flour over them, and broil them over a clear fire. Lift them gently now and then, to prevent theii- sticking to the bars, and when one side is done enough, turn the fish gently to the other. Serve immediately. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over the herrings before sending them to table. The roes must be fried with them. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, two for lid. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Broiled (in the Scotch style). Scale, gut, and wash the herrings, cut off the heads, tails, and fins, flatten them with gTeat care, remove the backbone, and any little bones that can be taken out -with it. Sprinkle the inside of each fish with a little pepper and salt ; then place them together in pairs, and press the two inner surfaces as close as possible. Dip them in oatmeal, lay them on the gridiron over a clear fire, and when the imdermost fish is broiled, turn them quickly and carefully, without separating them. Serve as hot as possible. A bloater and a fresh herring may be broiled together in this way, but when this is done, the bloater should be well rubbed inside with butter before being laid on the fresh fish, and the oatmeal omitted for it. Time, about seven minutes to broil. HER ( H) ilBR Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, two for lid. Herrings, Fresh, Choosing. Choose fresh herrings which ai-e plump in shape, bright ,ind silvery in look, and with their scales uninjured. When they are bloodshot about the eyes, they have been dead some time. When many of the scales have come off, they have been crushed together in large heaps, either in the fishing-boats or in baskets. A herring dies almost instantly it is taken out of the water. Comparatively few people have seen a Uve herring. Herrings, Fresh, Fried. Clean and scale four fresh hen-ings. Cut off the fins, and either score them lightly in three or four places, or open them along the under side, and take out the bone. Season them with a little salt and pepper ; flour, and afterwards brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over them. Fry them in a very little hot fat, and drain them well before serving. The roes should be taken out, egged and crumbed separately, fried, and sent to table with the fish. Stir a tea-spoonful of mi.x:ed mustard, and half a tea-si)oonful of vinegar into half a pint of melte+I butter, and send this sauce to table with the herrings in a tureen. Time, three minutes each side. Probable cost of herrings, 3d. Sufficient i-or two persons. Herrings, Fresh, Fried (another way). Take half a dozen herrings, scrape off the scales, cut off the heads and fins, cut them -open down the back, and wipe the fish with a soft cloth, but do not wash them. Slice two or three onions, and fry them for two or three minutes in hot fat. Dip the herrings in butter, and fry them with the onions, until done enough. Send to table -w-ith the onions in the dish with them, and parsley and butter in a tureen. Time, six or seven minutes. Probable cost, two for IJd. Sufficient, half a dozen for thi'ee persons. Herrings, Marinaded (a German re cipe). Put some white salted hen-ings into cold milk, to soak for a couple of houi-s. Split them open, take out the bones, cut each halfherring into three pieces, and divide the roes lengthwise. Put all in layers into a deep jar, and between each Layer place a sprinkling of finely-minced shiillot, pounded cloves, and wliite pepper, -wath here and there a piece of bay-leaf and a slice of fresh lemon with half the rind taken off. Place the roe with the herring, aT id the seasoning over the top layer, and cever the whole well with %Tnegar. . Pour tlH-oe or four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil over the vinegar, and leave it imtil required. The pieces of herring should be drained when wanted, and served either with cheese or as a relish for salads, breakfast, luncheon, &c. They may be used in a cou jle of days, but wiU keep good for some time. Probable cost, about 9d. per dozen. Herrings, Mock Anchovy Sandwiches of {nee Herrings, Red, Mock Anchovy Toa.st of). Herrings, Pickled. Take half a pound of salt, half a pound of bay salt, an ounce of sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre. Pound all well together until reduced to a fine powder. Procure the heri-iiigs as fresh as possible, cut off the heads and tidls, r,pen them, and lay them for one hour in brine strong enough to float an egg. Drain, dry the fish with a soft cloth, and put them in layers into a deep jar, with a little of the powder between each layer, and a little both at the top and bottom of the jar. When the jar is full, press it down and cover it closely. The fish will be ready in three months. Probable cost, 9d. per dozen. The above quantity of salt is enough for two dozen hen-ings. Herrings, Pickled (in the French style). Scale and clean a dozen perfectly fresh herrings, without washing them. Cut off their heads, and remove the entrails, leaving the milts and roes in their place. Put the fish into an earthen jar, strew salt over them, and let them lie for twenty-four heurs, turning them ove'r at the end of twelve hours. Drain them, and place them in an enamelled saucepan, with a dozen peppercorns, a bay-leaf, six cloves, and a large sliced onion. Pour over them as much cold, vinegar and water as will cover them. Place them on a brisk fire, bring them quickly to a boil, and let them boil just two minutes. Take them from the fire, and let them get nearly cold in the saucepan before removing them to the jar in wliich they are to be kept. Lift them out carefully, pour the liquid over them, and keep in a cool place. They will remain goo J. for some time. Probable cost, 9d. per dszen. Herrings, Pickled, To Dress. Cut the heads aiacl tails from a couple of pickled herrings. Soak them in lukewarm wafer for three or four hours, then dry, and broil them over a clear fire. Brush a little salad-oil over* them just before serving, and serve with sliced onion or chopped parsley and capers. Time, five minutes to broil. Probable cost, l d. each. Herrings, Pie of. Choose some herrings with soft roes ; scale and clean them well, cut off their heads, fins, and tails, split them open, take out the bones, -and season the inner surface of the fish with a little salt and pepper. Line the edge of a butterad pie-dish with a geod crust. Spread over the bottom of the dish a layer half an inch thick of equal parts of apples and onions, finel}' minced. Place the herrings on this, and cover them with another layer. Sprinlclo the surface with grated nutmeg and finely-shred lemonrind. Place two or three small pieces of butter here and there on the top, poitr a little water in, cover the pie with a crust, and bake in a good oven. Herrings, Potted. Empty the fish, dean without washing them, cut oif the heads and tails, remove fhe backbsne, and strew over them a Little stilt and powdered mace. Let them remain three or four hours, then wipe off the seasoning and put the fish into a wcU-butterod pan ; strew pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over them, place small lumps of butter here and there upon them, and bake in a moderate oven. When they aro cooked enough, di-ain the liquid from them, pour HER ( 315 ) HER sufficient clarified butter over them to cover them completely, and keep in a cool place. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost of herrings, 9d. per dozen. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Red, Broiled. Soak a coiijile of red herrings in a little wai-m water. This is unnecessary for fresh Yarmouth Bloaters. Diy them well -with a cloth, make four or five incisions crosswise on the back, dredge a little flour over them, and put them on a gridiron about six inches above a clear fire, or toast them before the fire. This fish may be opened at the back and rubbed inside with a Little cold butter, if this is liked. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for two persons. Herrings, Red, Broiled (another way). ? Cut off the heads and tails ; open the fish, and pour over them a little hot beer. When it is cold, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and toast them before the fire until they are hot through. Time, half an hour to soak. Probable cost, IJd. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Herrings, Red, Broiled (another way). Take ofE the heads and tails, split the herrings open, and take out the backbones. Beat an egg, stir into it a tea-spoonful of clarified butter. Dip the fish into this, and sprinkle over them, rather thickly, finely-grated breadcrumbs, seasoned with a little pepper and powdered herbs. Broil them on a gridiron about six inches above a clear fire, and serve them on hot toast. Time, five minutes to broil. Pro]?ible cost, Id. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Herrings, Red, BuflFed (a Scotch di.sli). Soak the herrings in two or three waters, until the salt is almost extracted. Push a stick through the eyes, and hang the fish in the sun or wind to drj-. \Vhen wanted for use, broil or boil them like fresh herrings. Time, three days to soak. Probable cost, two for Irjd. Sufficient, half a dozen for two or three persons. Herrings, Red, Choosing. Choose a iish which is plump, but not too full of roe. L;irge-roed fish are sure to be oily, and in all probability are not satisfactorily salted. The body should be firm, the flesh red, the roe well set, and the smell sweet. If too salt, the fish should be soaked in warm water a few hours before being cooked. It is well, however, to pull a few of the fins out of the back, and taste them, in order to ascertain whether it is too highly salted or not. Herinngs, Red, Mock Anchovy Toast of. CHit the head and tail from a red herring, and let it soak in boiling water for five or ten minutes. Drain it, peel off the skin, open it, and take out as many of the bones as possible. Cut one half into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the other half into small squares. Divide a round of hot buttered toast into quarters, and place a square of herringflesh on eiich quarter, and round it one of the narrow slices. This will give mock anchovy toast. Place the pieces of herring between bread and butter, instead of upon toast, and you will have mock anchovy sandwiches. It will take about ten minutes to soak the herring. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient for one person. Herrings, Salted at Home. Procure the herrings as fresh as possible. Scale, gut, and clean, but do not wash them. Leave the roes in the fish. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg. Put the herrings in this, and let them lie fourteen or sixteen hours. Drain them well, and put them into jars, with a thick layer of salt under them, and salt between each row of hen-ings. Cover tightly, to keep then free from air. When wanted for use, soa'? the fish in a little milk, and boil or broil then in the usual way. Herrings, Salted, with Potatoes. Take two or three salted herrings, which have been washed and di-ied, and put them into a quart stone jar, nearly fiUed with sliced raw potatoes. Pour a little water over, and bako in a moderate oven until the potatoes are done. Time, abeut half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Herrings, Sauce for. Herrings arc generally served without sauce. When fresh ones are cooked a little may be requ-ired, and then either parsley and butter, anchovy, or caper sauce may be sent to table with the fish ; or the following sauce: Stii- a table-spoonful of mixed mustard into a pint of melted butter. A table-spoonful of finely-chopped mixed pickles may be substituted for the mustard. Boil for five minutes, add a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and serve. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Herrings, Sauce of, for Pish (a German. recipe). Put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with two finely-minced shallots. Let them remain over a gentle fire until tender, then, thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, and, when, smooth, add half a pint of fish stock or w atcr, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and two bay-leaves. Simmer gently for ten minutes. Strain the sauce, and mix vii'b. it the flesh of a salted and soaked herring, finely minced, and an ounce of butter. Boil once more. Just before serving, and when the sauce is slightly cooled, mix in the well-beatca yolks of two eggs. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Herrings, Smoked. Clean and open the herrings, and lay thtni in salt and saltpetre for twenty-four hours. Drain and -wipe them dry, and hang them in a row by means of a stick pushed through their ej-es. P ill an old cask, open at both ends, with sawdust, put a red-hot iron in the middle of it, and place the herrings over the cask, which must be covered to keep in the smoke. Keei the heat as equal as possible. In about twenty-four hours the herrings will be ready. Probable cost of herrings, 9d. per dozen. Herrings, Smoked, To Prepare. Cut ofl: the head and tail from a smoked herring, and remove the bones. Cut the fish into slicoB about half an inch in thickness, and let them HER (316) HOG soak in salad-oil for five oi- six hours. Drain them, i)ut them into a dish, pour fresh oil over them, and serve. Probable cost, l d. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Herrings, Soft Roes of, Baked. Take the soft roes out of six or eight newlyboiled fresh herrings, sprinkle them over with a little pepper and salt, grated bread-crumbs, and finely-minced paraley. Put them into a dish, place little lumps of butter here and there over them, and bake in a hot oven. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over them before serving, and send to table as hot as possible. A little parsley and butter may he sent to table with them. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Hessian Soup. Take half an ox's head, clean and rub it well with salt, and let it soal+ in lukewarm water for four or five houi's. Put it into a large stewpan with six quarts of water, and let it simmer until tender, then take it out ; when the broth is cool, remove the fat, return the broth to the saucepan, and put with it a pint of soaked split peas, six carrots, six onions, three turnips, a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a blade of mace. Simmer again without the ox's head until the vegetables are tender. Press them through a colander and afterwards through a sieve. Put the pulp into the soup, add salt and Jamaica pepper to taste, and a lunip of sugar. Let it boil up once more and serve. It should be as tliick as ordinary pea-soup. Time, four hours. Probable cost, lOd. per quart. Sufficient for twelve or fourteen persons. Hessian Soup and Ragout. Prepare the soup as in the last recii:)e. Cut the nicest parts of the ox head into small neat pieces, and put them into a stew jan with a pint of the soup. Add three dessert- spoonfuls of ketchup, a mustard-spoonful of mixed mustard, and a glass of port or claret. Let all boil together for three or four minutes, and serve as hot as possible, with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, half an hour, exclusive of the time required for making the soup. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hessian Stew. Take the root of an oxtongue, cleanse it thoroughly, rub it well with iialt, and pour over it as much boiling water as will cover it. When cool, drain and cut it into thick slices. Dredge a little flour over these, and fry them, until lightly browned, in a iotle hot fat, and fry with them four sliced onions. Pour half a pint of beer over the meat, and, when it boils, i)ut all into a stewpan. Add three quarts of water, six carrots, three turnips, three onions, and a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin. Simmer gently for foiu- hours. Strain the soup, the greater part of which should be served in the tureen with the vegetables, pulped and boiled up once more, and the addition of pepper, salt, and seasoning. The meat should be warmed in a pint of the gravy, according to the directions given for Hessian Eagoiit {see Hessian Soup and Ragout). Probable, cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hide-and-seek Pudding (to be eaten cold). Make a ricli batter with two tablespoonfuls of cream, mixed with thi'ee wellbeaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of sugar. INIelt a little butter in a small omelet-pan, pour in the mixture, and fry it like an ordinary pancake, but it must be four times the thickness. Turn it on a dish, and, when cold, cover it with rich jam, and garnish with candied fruit cut into slices, and a few dark green leaves. Time, a few minutes to fry the omelet. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 7d. Hillsboro' Pudding. Shred six ounces of suet very finely. jVIix with it three ounces of flour, three ounces ?f finelygrated bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, the rind of a fresh lemon cut into long narrow strips, and one ounce of candied lemon, also sliced. Melt six ounces of good treacle until it will run. Stir this into the pudding, and add the juice of the lemon, three well-beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. Fill a buttered basin with the mixtm-e, tie the mould in a floured cloth, and plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil continuously for four hours. Turn it out of the mould before serving, and send brandied sauce to table with it. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for si.x or eight persons. Hilton Pudding [see Herodotus Pudding). Hip Sauce. (a German recipe for puddings, &c.) Take the seeds from half a pint of ripe hips. Boil them in a little water, until they are sufficiently tender to press through a coarse sieve. Mrrc a wine-glassful of light wine and a table-spoonful of moist sugar with the pulp, boil up once more, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost uncertain, for hips are seldom to be bought. Sufficient for thl-ee or four persons. Hog's Cheeks, To Cure. Take out the snout, split open the head, and remove the brains. Trun the head neatly, and strew salt over it. Let it lie for two days, then put it into a brine made by boiling one pint of bay salt and one quart of common salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of sugar, in thi-ee quarts of water until dissolved. Cover the cheeks with the brine, and let them lie in the pickle for a fortnight, tui-ning them every other day. Drain, and let them hang in smoke for a week. Sufficient for one head. Probable cost, 3s. Hog's Ears, Hot. Parboil two pairs of pigs' ears. Raise the skin of the upper side, and fill them with, a forcemeat made by mincing and mixing thoroughly a quarter of a pound of suet, six ounces of bread-crumbs, a pounded anchovy, two tea-spoonfuls of choiDped parsley, one tabie-spoonf ul of sage, and a little pepper and salt. Bind these ingredients together with the yolks of two eggs. When stuffed, skewer the ears to prevent the forcemeat escaping, and fry them in a little hot butter until brightly browned, then drain them and j ut them into a stewpan, with haU' a pint of good gravy, one table-spoonful of mixed mustard, one ounce of butter rolledvin flour, one onion, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the stewpan closely, and simmer gently HOG ( 317 ) HON for half an hour, shaking the pan frequently, to keep the contents from sticking. A few minutes before the meat is done enough, add a glass of sheiTy. Put the cars in a hot dish, strain the gi'avy over them, and serve very hot. Prol)able cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Hog's Lard, To Make. Strip the skin from the flear, le if, or inner fat of the pig, cut it into small jjieces, put it into an earthen jar, which must be covered and placed in a sauc 'pan of boiling water, and let it remain until melted. Pour it off, and keep it either in small jars, closelj' covered, or small bladders the smaller the better, unless it is intended to use the lard quickly. After it is exposed to the ail- it is liable to spoil. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Hog, or Black Puddings. Throw a little salt into the blood as soon as it is drawn, stir it well, and, when cold, strain. Mix with it a third of its measure in milk, or good stock, and stir into it two-thirds of tinely-shred beef suet to one-third of dried oatmeal, until it is a stiff batter. Add pepper, salt, and finely-chopped onions, and, if liked, a little parsley, marjoram, or winter savoury. Cleanse the skins thoroughly. Cut them into equal lengths, and fill them with the mixture. Sew them securely. Put them into boiling water, and boil them gently, pricking them as they swell with a large darningneedle, to let out the air. Hang them in a dry place until wanted. Time, one hour to boil. Holly-leaves, To Frost, for Garnishing. Take some holly-leaves, cleanse them thoroughly, lay them on a large dish some little distance from the fire, and let them remain there until perfectly dry. Dip them into butter, melted until it will run, strew white powdered sugar over them, and dry them l)cfore the fire. Keep in a dry place until wanted for use. Time ten minutes to dry. Holmby Cup. Dissolve two ounces of pounded louf sugar in a pint of claret. Add a wine-glassful of brandy, a bottle of soda-water, and two table-spoonfuls of crushed ice. Holstein Cream. Take the thin rind of a lemon, and let it soak by the side of the fire in a pint of cream for half an hour, and afterwards bring it slowly to a boil. Mix a teaspoonful of ground rice very smoothly with the strained juice of the lemon and a little cold milk. Stir it into the boiling liquid, add two table*spoonfuls of sugar, and boil five minutes longer, stirring all the time. Slice a small spongecake, and lay it in a glass dish, pour the cream o 'er, and garnish according to taste. If milk be used instead of cream, double the above quantity of ground rice will be required. Probable cost, 6d. , if made with milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Holstein Sauce, for Fish. Mix a quarter of a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled with an equal quantity of light wine. Thicken the liquid with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with two ounces of butter, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Add a salt-spoonful of siilt, a little pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Beat the yolk of an es g in a basin, and mix with it the juice oil a lenion. Draw the sauce back from the fire for a minute, then stir into it the egg and half an ounce of butter, and serve. I'ime, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the -wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Honey, Butter Preserved with {see Butter Preserved with Honey). Honey Cake. Stir half a pint of sour cream into a pint of flour. Add about half a tea-spoonful of groimd ginger, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and honey, according to taste. Mix thoroughlj', and when the cake is ready for the oven, add half a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, dissolved in a small quantity of hot water. Beat again for a few minutes, pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. This cake may be eaten either wai-m or cold. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. Sxifficient for four persons. Honey Cakes (a Gei-man recipe). Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when melted, stir in half a pound of honey. Let it boil, stirring briskly aU the time. Take it from the fire, and, when slightly cool, mix with it the finely-minced rind of half a lemon, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanclied and coarsely pounded, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and half a pound of flour, and, last of all, half an ounce of carbonate of soda dissolved in a small quantity of warm water. Leave the mixture in a cool place twelve or fourteen hours. Roll it out half an inch thick, cut it into small square cakes, put a thin slice of ciindied peel in the middle of each cake, and a slice of blanched almond in the four comers. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen cakes. Honeycomb Cream. Strainandsweeten libei-ally the juice of two large lemons and a Seville orange. Put it into a glass dish. Boil a pint and a half of thick cream. Pour it into a heated teapot. Put the glass dish containing the juice on the ground, and pour the cream on it very slowlj , and from a good height, so as to froth it well. Let it stand until cold. It should be well stirred at ttible before sen-ing. This is the old-fashioned way of preparing honeycomb cream, but a better plan is to whisk the white of an egg and a little sugar with the cream, then, as the froth rises, to take it off and lay it upon the lemonjuice until all the cream is used. Honeycomb cream should be made the day before it is wanted, and put at once into the dish in which it is to remain. Time, an hour or more to prepare. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Honeycomb Gingerbread {see Gingerbread, Honeycomb). Honeycomb, Lemon {see Lemon Honeycomb). Honeycomb, To Keep. Put the honeycomb as whole as possible into a large jar. Set it aslant, so that the thin part may drop off. HON ( 318 ) HOB, Cover it closely, to exLiude the air, and store it ill a?cool, dry place. It may thus be kept good for some months. Honey Noyau, for Flavouring. Blanch and pound an ounce of sweet almonds and two ounces of bitter almonds; mix with them a pound of sifted sugar, and pour over them two pints of gin mixed with half a pint of milk, which has been boiled with a large tablespoonful of honey, and allowed to cool. Add the thin rind and strained juice of a large lemon, and j)0ur all into a good-sized bottle. Shake the mixture frequently. In twelve days it will be ready for use. Filter through blotting-paper, and keep in bottles securely corked. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the gin. Sufficient for a little more than three pints of flavouring. Honey, Orange Marmalade with (see Orange Marmalade with Honey). Honey, Vinegar made from. A strong and excellent vinegar may be made from honey. Dissolve two pounds of pure honey in half a gallon of water. Put it into a small cask and leave the hole uncorked, merely covering it with a piece of muslin to preserve the liquid from dust, &c. Expose it to the heat of the sun the hotter the better and in about six weeks it will be ready for use. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for nearly tliree quarts of vinegar. Hop Salad (a German recipe). Take some young hops before they are leafy. Boil them in a little salt and water, and when they are partially cooked, but not quite tender, drain and dry them thoroughly, and pour over them a salad-dressing made with lemon-juice instead of vinegar. Hop Tea. Put the hops into a covered jug with boiling water, in the proportion of an ounce of hops to a pint of water. When cold, pour off the liquid and bottle for use. A quarter of a pint taken fasting is often found "beneficial in attacks of indigestion. If double the quantity of hops is used, it wiU be an excellent tonic. Sufficient for a pint of the tea. Hops and Sherry Cordial. Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with hops. They may be shaken together, but must not be pressed down. Cover them with sherry, and let them infuse for a month. Strain the liquid, and mix with it a syrup made by boUing half a pint of water with six ounces of sugar. Strain, and keep the cordial in closely-corked bottles for use. A wine-glassful taken in half a tumblerful of water will be found both agreeable and strengthening. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of the cordial. Horseradish for Garnish. Wash and scrub the horseradish thoroughly. Let it lie for an hour in cold water ; then scrape it very finely with a sharp knife. Arrange it in little bunches round the dish, or, if there is gra\'y with the meat, put it in a small glass dish near the carver. Probable cost, 2d. per root. Horseradish, Pickling. Scrape the outer skin off the horseradish, and cut it into inch bngths. Put those into earthen jars, oover with cold vinegar, and cork securelv. Wax the corks, and keep the pickle in a cool dry place. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost of horseradish, 2d. per root. Horseradish Powder. Slice some horseradish. Dry it in a Dutch oven very gradually, or the flavour will be lost. When thoroughly dry, pound it to powder, and keep it in bottles securely corked. The best time for preparing the powder is in November and December. Horseradish Sauce, Brown (for boiled meat or fish). G-rate two table-spoonfuls of horseradish, put it into a stewpan with half a pint of good bro \ l gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire until quite hot. Add a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a clove of garlic pounded with a little butter, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. If it is wished to have the sauce very mild, use equal parts of breadcrumbs and the scraped root. Serve in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Horseradish Sauce (for cold roast beef). Wash and brush the horseradish. Soak it for an horn- in cold water, and scrape it very finely with a shai-p knife. Mix two tablespoonfuls of it with half a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of powdered mustard. Add gradually a quarter of a j int of cream, or, instead, the yolk of an egg mixed with three table-spoonfuls of olive-oil, and afterwards twu table-spoonfuls of vinegar ; stir in briskly but gradually. ]\Iix well, and serve in a boat. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce (for hot roast beef). Prepare the sauce as above {see Horseradish Sauce for cold roast beef). Before serving, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boUing water. When quite hot the sauce is ready to serve, but it must not boil, or it will curdle. ' If used cold with hot meat, it will most likely cool everj'thing on the plate with it. Time, a few minutes to heat. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce, Hot (for boiled fowls, &(\). Prepare the horseradish as before. Grate an ounce very finely, add a pinch of salt, and pour over it haK a pint of good cream. Mix thoroughly, and serve in a boat. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient foi five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce, Superior Flavouring for. Rub one large luniji of sugar upon the peel of an orange until all the yellow part is taken off. Pound the sugar to powder, and squeeze the juice of the orange over it. Let it dissolve; then mix it -vsdth two tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, or, if prefen-ed, a table-spoonful of horseradish and one of bread-crumbs ; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, a small pinch of cayenne, three tablespoonfuls of oil, and sufficient vinegar to make a thick cream. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce with Apples (n. German recipe). Take a table-spoonful of HOR (319) HOT fmely-grated horseradish, and a table-spoonful ?of apples boiled to a pulp. Mix them well together, add half atcii-spoonfui of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and servo in a tureen. Tiine, a few mmutes to prepare. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Horseradish Sauce with. Cream (a Oennan recipe). jNIix four table-spoonfuls of thick cream, with two of white -svine vinegar. Add a tea-spoonful of sugar, a tea-spoonful of .salt, a pinch of cayenne, and as much grated horseradish as will make a thick sauce. Serve in a tureen. Time, a few ndnutes to prepare. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four pei-sons. Horseradish Sauce with Eggs (a German recipe). Boil two eggs hard. When cold, jjound the yolks with the back of a wooden spoon, and add very gradually thr-ee or four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, sufficient to make a smooth cream. Add three dessert-spoonfuls of gTated horseradish and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Serve in a tureen. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient, for two or three persons. Horseradish Vinegar. Take fourounces of grated horseradish. Put them into a jar, with a drachm of cayenne, an ounce of finely-minced shallots, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Pour over them a quart of boiling \-inegar, cover closely, and keep in a warm place for a fortnight. Draw off the vinegar, let it boil once more, strain it through a tamis, and keep it bottled closely until required. This \-inegar will be found useful as a relish for cold meat, and for flavouring salads, fee. Probable cost, about 8d. Sufficient for a quart of vinegar. Hotch-potch. Take two pounds of the Taottom part of the breast of beef. Cut it into pieces about two inches square, and put them into a stewpan, with a few scraps of fat beef or veal, five pints of water, and half a pint of beer. Let these boil up, then add two large carrots, sliced, two onions, two sticks of celery, two turnips, and some pieces of cauliflower. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently for three hours. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Let it brown, dilute it - dth a little of the broth, season with ketchup, and add it to the rest of the stew. Let the broth boil lip once more, and add pepper and salt to taste. Serve in a large dish. Put the meat in the middle, the vegetables round, the gra y over aU, afld send to table as hot as possible. Hotchpotch may be made with beef, mutton, lamb, fowl, or pickled pork, and - vith vegetables van,-ing according to the season. A mixture of two kinds of meat is very good, and some cooks mince the meat instead of serving it in cutlets. In the West Indies it is very commonly used lay the natives, but is made so hot vrith pepper, that it is known by the name of " pepper pot." \ Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. Sufficient ! for six or seven persons. Hotch-potch, Mutton [sec Mutton Hotch-potch) . 1 Hotch-potch, Ox-tail. Divide an oxtail at the joints, rub it with salt, and soak it in lukewai-m water foi- an hour or two. Put it into a stewiian with a scraped carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, two onions, one of them stuck with two cloves, a clove of garlic, six peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to cover them. Simmer gently until the meat is tender, and leaves the bones easily. Thicken with flour and butter, and serve with sippets round the dish. In the season, a pint of green peas, stewed in the gra-s-y a few minutes before serving, is an improvement. Time, two hours. Probable cost, ox-tail, from Is. to 2s. Sufficient forthi-ee or four persons. Hotch-potch, Scotch. Take three quarts of good mutton broth. Put it into a deep stewpan, and let it boil ; then put with it a quart of young vegetables sliced, including equal quantities of carrots, turnips, onions, finely-shred lettuce, sprigs of cauliflower, and a little chopped parslej'. Add a pint of freshlyshelled green peas, and three pounds of mutton chops, cut either from the loin or the best end of the neck, and freed from all supei-fluous fat. If preferred, lamb may bo substituted for mutton : in either case the meat must be fresh and sweet, and the vegetables young. Boil until the meat and vegetables are tender, then add another pint of peas and a little pepper and siilt, and, when these are tender, serve in a deep dish. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Hotch-potch, "Winter. Put a pound of di-ied gi-een peas into water to soak the night before it is intendedto make the hotch-potch. Take two pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton and two pounds of the shin or breast of beef. Cut the mutton into neat cutlets, free from all superfluous fat, and the beef into small square pieces. Set them aside until wanted. Put fomquarts of water into a stewpan with two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, four onions, a teaspoonful of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, the soaked peas, and a whole tumip and carrot. Boil for two houi-s. Take out the whole oaiTot and turnip, mash them to a pulp, and return them to the stew with the meat and a little pepper and s:ilt. Simmer gently an hour longer, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for ten or twelve pei-sons. Hotch-potch, Winter (another way). See German Broth or Winter Hotch-potch. Hot Cross Buns- -With two pounds of flour mix lialf a pound of sugar, one pound of cuiTants, half a tea-spoonful of salt, -and one tea-spoonful of spice. Make a hollow in the fl.nr, and pour in a wine-glassful of yeast and half a pint of warmed milk slightly coloured with saflron. Mix the surrounding flour with the milk and yeast to a thin batter ; throw a little dry flour over, and set the pan before the fire to rise. "WHien risen, add half a pound of melted butter and milk enough to make a soft dough. Cover over as before, and let it stand half an hour. Then make the dough into buns, and HOT ( 320 HOW mark them with the back of a knife. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, Id. each. Siifficient for twenty-four buns. Hot Cross Buns (another way). See \ Good Friday Buns. Hot Pickle. ilince an ounce of shallots very finely, and put into a stew jan with an ounce of whole ginger, two ounces of salt, a quarter of an ounce of mustard-seed, half an ounce of pepper, two di-achms of cayenne, and half an ounce of allspice. Pour over them a quart of vinegar, and let the mixture boil. Put it into a jar and let it get cold, then add any fresh vegetables that are obtainable, such as cauliflowers, French betms, radish-pods, asparagus, or even gi-ecn gooseberries and unripe apples, ilore pickle may be added when required, and vegetiibles as they come into season. Probable cost of pickle. Is. 6d. Sufficient for as many vegetables as it will entirely cover. Hot Pint, Scotch. Mix two table-spoonfuls of cold ale with a weU-beuten egg. Add a table-spoonful of sugar, half a nutmeg, grated, and a qu;irter of a pint of wliiskey. Stir this mixture into two pints of ale which are just upon the point of boiling. Leave the ingredients on the fire till they nearly boil, but not quite ; then pour the hot pint quickly, and from a good height, from one jug to another, for three or four minutes. It sliould be served hot. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the whiskey. The above quantities are sufficient for three pints of the liquid. Hot Pot. Take two pounds of chops from the best end of the neck, and two sheep' skidueys. Trim them neatly, cut off aU superfluous fat, and lay half of them in a deep dish well buttered, and with them a kidney cut in slices. Sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced onions, and place upon them a quarter of a pound of potiitoes cut in slices. Put two or three small lumpsof drippinghere and there, and repeat until the meat is used ;uid the dish nearly full. Cover the top with whole potatoes, pour half a pint of water or stock over, and bake in a moderate oven. A few oysters are by many considered an improvement, and for this purpose tinned oysters will be found to answer nearly as well as fresh ones, and to be much less expensive. Half a tin will be sufficient for this quantity. Lay them upon the meat, pour a little of the liquid over them, and proceed as above. Time, throe hours or more to bake. Sufficient for six or seven "persons. Probable cost 2s. lOd. Hot Pot, Lancashire {sec Lancashire Hot Pot). Hot Sauce, for Broils, &c. Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, stir in vith it a table-spoonful of floiu-, and mix smoothly with the back of a wooden spoon until it is lightly bro-wned. Add gradually to it a quarter of a pint of good stock, stirring all the time ; add also a tea-spoonful of chopped capers, a tea-sjioonful of chopped shallots, a tea-spoonful of mustard, half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup, a table-spoon ful of port- or claret, and a quarter of a teaspoonful 01 cayenne. Boil gently for six or seven minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or si.x persons. Hot Spice, for Flavouring Sauce, Gravies, &C. Take half an ounce each of cinnamon, black pepper, and ginger. Pound them thoroughly in a mortar, and with them threequarters of an ounce of cayenne, one ounce of mace, two ounces of finely-grated nutmeg, three ounces of white pepper, and a dozen cloves. When thoroughly pounded and mixed put these ingredients into a bottle, and keep the spice closely stoppered until required. Time, half an houi- to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 8d. When it is to be used, try a little pinch of the powder at first, and add more if required. Household Gravy, Superior. Take one pound of lean veal from the fillet. Put it into a stewpan, and with it any trimmings and bones of beef, veal, or mutton ; but they must be perfectly sweet, or they wUl spoil the gravy. Add half a pint of water, and simmer gently until a light glaze is formed at the bottom of the stewpan; then add a pint and a Iiiilf of water, a small onion with one clove stuck in it, three spx-igs of parsley and one of thyme, a small carrot, a bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. Boii ; then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently for one hour. It must be only partially covered, or the gravy wiU not be clear. Take the fat off caro fully, strain the broth, and put it aside for use. It will keep for three or four days if boiled occasionally and kept without cover in a cool place. A few spoonfuls will improve sauces and gTavies. The veal viIL be found excellent if cut into convenient-sized pieces and served with a few stewed mushrooms and a little of the gravy. Sufficient for a pint and half. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Housewife's Cream. Pub the yellow part of a fresh lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar ; reduce the sugar to powder, and stir it until dissolved into half a pint of thick cream. Add the strained juice and a quarter of a pint of sherry, and whisk all well together until thick. Serve in custard-glasses, which should be kept in a cool place until wanted. This cream i.s better if made a few hours before it is used. Just before serving, dust a little powdered cinnamon or pink sugar over the top. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, lOd. Sufficient for four glasses. ? Howtowdie (a Scotch dish). Truss a young fowl Tis for boiling, and stuff it with good veal forcemeat. Put it into a saucepan with a closely-fitting lid, and with it foiuounces of fresh butter, half a pint of good stock, thi'ee sprigs of parsley and one of thjnne, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, six small onions, a baj'-leaf, and one clove. Simmer gently for one hour if the chicken is young and small, and longer if necessary. When it is half-cooked, turn it in the pan and pour another half-pint of gravy HUN (321 ) HUN over it. Have ready some spinach. Press it into small balls; flatten these on the toi), and lay a poached I' g upon each. Put the fowl in the middle. Thicken the gravy, pour it over the fowl, and serve ;is hot as possible. A few stewed mushrooms may be sent to table on a separate dish. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost of fowl, 2s. 6d. Hungarian Tongue (a German recipe). Take a fi-esh bullock's-tongue. Put it into a stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a clove of garUc, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, half a fresh lemon sHccd, and as much water as will cover it. Let it boil ; then di-aw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the tongue is quite tender. Take off the skin, and trim the tongue neatly ; strain and reduce the gravy. ilix a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with two ounces of butter. Keep stirring over the fire until it is lightly browned, and steam a bruised clove of garlic in the browning. Add gradually tkree-quarters of a jjint of gravy, and when quite smooth and thick stir in the juice of half a lemon. Pour a little of the sauce into the dish with the tongue, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Time, two hours to simmer the tongue. Probable cost of tongue, from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or iline persons. H\ing Beef {see Beef, Dutch, or Hung, and Bed, Hung). Hunter's, or Spiced Beef. Take a round of beef weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. Let it hang a day or two ; then rub it well with a powder made by pounding together one pound of salt, an ounce and a half of saltpetre, half an ounce of allsijice, half an ounce of black pepper, two ounces of moist sugar, and a tea-spoonful of herbpowder, if this be in the house ; if not, it may be omitted. Take out the bone, and turn and rub the meat every day for a fortnight. At the end of that time wash it well with a soft sponge, put it into a stewpan, just cover it with water, bring it to a boil, and let it simmer gently for five hours. It may remain in the water in which it was cooked ixntil it is nearly cold, if it is intended to be used at once ; but though this A\dll improve the taste, it will prevent its keeping so long. The beef is better if kept uncut until cold. It will keep a fortnight or more in moderate weather. It is an excellent plan, instead of boiling the beef, to bake it. Put it into a pan with a sliced onion, a quart of water, and nearly three pounds of beef or mutton-suet cut small and placed on the top of the beef. Cover with a coarse flour and water paste, and bake in a moderate oven. \\Tien cold, take oft' the crust ; pour off the gravy, which wiU be found excellent for soups and sauces. Put the suet into an earthen jar, and melt it slowly in a moderate oven. Poirr it off frequently as it melts. It may be used for fr\-ing, &c. The meat will keep for six weeks in moderate weather. Time, six hours to bake. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Hunter's Beef (another way). Take as lean a piece as can be procured of the flank of beef. The thin end is the best. Take out the bones, and rub the meat well every day for a fortnight with a mixture made of one pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of pounded allspice one ounce of pounded cloves, and one grated nutmeg. At the end of the time roll it as closely and fii-mly as possible, and bind it securely with skewers and tape. Just cover it with water, and boil or bake it for five or six hours. Do not loosen the tapes, &c., until the meat is quite cold. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Hunter's Beef (another v,-ay). Sec Beef, Hunter's. Hunter's Bread and Meat Pudding. Take two pounds of dough made with yeast, such as would be used for bread ; or if this cannot be obtained, use a dough mixed with the white of eggs. Poll it out an inch thick. Cut two pounds of rump-steak into small pieces. Pepper and salt each piece, and season it with a vcrj- small quantity of pounded allspice. Place the meat in rows on the dough, taking care that a fatty piece is in each row ; then roll the dough round and fasten it securely at the ends, veiy much like a roly-poly pudding. It may then be either baked or boiled. This is a convenient form of preparing provision for those who have to make long expeditions, and do not ?wish to be burdened with much luggage. Any sort of meat may be substituted for the rumpsteak, and endless varieties may be introduced ; but the meat should always be cut into mouthfuls, and the ends securely fastened to prevent the gi-avy escaping. Time to boil or bake, two hours. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 2s. lOd., if made with rumpsteak. Hunter's Gingerbread (see Gingerbread, Hunter's). Hunter's Partridge Pie {see Partridge Pie, Hunter's). Hunter's Pie. Take two pounds of the best end of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, trim these neatly, remove all superfluous fat,, add pepper and salt, put them into a stewpan with a small quantity of water, and let them stew gently for half an hom-. Boil and mash three or four pounds of good potatoes. Line a buttered pie-dish with them, put in the meat and gravy, and shape a crust over the top of the remainder of the potatoesBake in a good oven for half an hour. If the pie is not nicely browned, hold a red-hot fireshovel over it for a minute or two. Just before serving make an incision in the middle of the crust, and pour in a little boiling gravy. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six pea-sons. Hunter's Pudding. A hunter's pudding and a plum pudding are very similar. Mix half a pound of finely-shred beef-suet with a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs and a quarter of a pound of flour, add half a pound of stoned and chopped raisins, half a pound of picked currants, half a pound of sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of half a lemon, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg, grated, and an HUN (322) ICE ounce of candied lemon. Wlicn the dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stii- in four wellheaten eggs, and either milk, beer, port wine, or hrandy sufHcicnt to make a stiff batter. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, and boil for six or seven hours. This pudding will keep for several months, and when used may be either cut into slices and fried, or plunged again into boiling water and boiled for an hour. Several puddings may be mixed and boiled together, and are very useful for keeping in the house to be used as occasion requii-es. If finelyminced cooked meat be substituted for the suet, this pudding may be eaten cold. Another excellent hunter's pudding may be made by taking a pound and a half of the mince made for mince pies, mixing it with six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs and three eggs. Probable cost, Is. 3d., exclusive of the wine, &c. Sufficient for live or six persons. Hunter's Salmi. Take cold roast game if under-dressed so much the better carve it into neat joints, remove the skin, &c., score the flesh Lightly across in two or three places, dredge a little salt and cayenne over, and put them into a saucepan. Squeeze the strained juice of a lemon over them, and add a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, thi-ee table-spoonfuls of the best salad-oil, and six of light wine. Lot the pieces of meat remain until they are quite hot, and send rusks or gi-illed crusts to table with them. Time, a few minutes to heat through. Probable cost, -id., exclusive of the game and wine. Sufficient, one bird for two or 'three persons. Hunter's Sandwiches. When sandwiches have to l)e kept a little while in the pocket before being used, they should be toasted lightly on the outside. This will keep them from crumbling. Hunter's Soup. Partially roast a brace of well-kept partridges, or a partridge and a gTOuso. Put them rather close to a clear tire, and baste them plentifully. As soon as the outside is well browned take them up, and when n ,ivly cool cut the meat from the bones in neat fillets, and bruise the bones thoroughly. Cut half a poimd of lean ham into dice, and fry these in two ounces of butter with a sliced carrot, an onion, and a little parsley. Mix in very smoothly two table-spoonfuls of flour or ground rice, and when slightly browTied add two quarts of strong beef gravy, the bruised bones, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer gently for two hours, then strain the soup. Add the slices of meat and a glass of claret, and let it heat once more without boiling. Serve the meat with the soup. Time, twenty minutes to roast the partridges. Probable cost, uncertain, game being variable in price. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hunting Game Pie { ec Game Pie, Hunting) . Hyssop Tea (Invalid Cookery). Pour a quart of boiling water over half an ounce of dried hyssop-flowers. Cover it closely, and let it remain for a quarter of an hour. Strain the infusion, and sweeten it with a table-spoonful of honey. Two table-spoonfuls should be taken three times a day. Hyssop tea is good for chest diseases. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for a quart. Ice Colour. Ices are sometimes coloured simply with cochineal, but we append the following recipe, copied from good authority : Boil over .a slow fiie for five or six minutes in a jjint of water, or tlarified sugar if not to bo used too quickly, equal quantities of cochineal (bruised) and salts of wormwood, an ounce of each. Add three ounces of cream of tartar, and an j ounce of rock alum ; but remove the saucepan I from the fire before jjutting in the cream of I tartar, kc, or it will boil over, and the whole ( mixtiu'c will be spoiled. Ice, Mock. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass in half a pint of water. Beat through a sieve, -s\-ith cream, according to the quantity required, strawbeny or raspberry preserve and red currant jelly, in all a quarter I of a pound pot. Mix the dissolved insinglass and cream well together, fdl a shape, and put I it by in a cool place for twenty-four hours; j Ice, Preservation and Cutting of. j Ice may bo preserved by burying it in sawdust, or wrapping it in a large piece of flannel, j but care should be taken in either case to allow j the water, as the ice gradually melts, to di-ain ofi'. It may be divided into small pieces by placing a needle point downwards on the ice, and striking the head of it with a small hammer. Iced Pudding. Place at tiie bottom of a well-buttered pudding-mould a layer of ratafia-cakes, and on them a layer of dried cherries arranged closely together. Have ready slices of stale spongecake cut to nearly the size of the mould, and which have imbibed the whole of a gill of brandy and a glass of cui-a(,'oa ; lay one of the slices on the cherries, and proceed with alternate layers of ratafias, cheiTfies, and spongecake, imtil the mould is more than half full ; for the remaining space pour in a rich warm custard (it should not bo too warm), close the mould, and freeze. Iced Pudding (another way). Beat up eight eggs, and add to them twelve ounces of good sugar and a pint and a haK of new milk. Pound together in a mortar sweet and bitter almonds, half a pound of the former and two ounces of the latter, which should be blanched, and dried in a clean cloth, then pounded, and put with the other ingredients into a welllined saucepan. Stir, and let the pudding thicken, but do not let it boil. Strain and put it into the freezing-pot for haK an hour, when it should be transposed to an ice-pudding mould, and kept in the ice until required for use. Serve turned out, with a compote of fruit in the dish, and some over the top of the pudding. A glass of any liquor liked, cura(,-oa, vanilla, or maraschino, will greatly improve. Iced Punch. Get three medium-sized lemons, or two large ones, with good rough rinds, and eight ounces of sugar in lumps. ICE ( 323) IMP Eub off the outer lemon-rind on the sugar, also the rind of two China oranges. Dissolve the sugar by pouring the juice of the fruit (which should be squeezed chy) over it, and then pressing and stirring it until thoi'oughly mixed, as much depends on the careful incorporation of the juices with the sugar ; add water (boiling) until the sherbet, for so it is called, is of the desired tiavoui-, and when cool enough, pour in brandy and rum a pint of each will be sufficient. This will make four quarts of excellent punch. The Italians beat the whites of eggs to froth, and add it to the sherbet ; it is then iced, and served in glasses. The sherbet is much richer if the lemon-pulp be beaten in with the sugar, but it should be strained before the spu-its are added to it. Iceland Moss Jelly. Wash four ounces of Iceland moss in warm water, and having drained it set it over the hre in a quart of cold water. Stii- until it boils, when it should be covered up and allowed to simmer for an hour. Add four ounces of sugar, a gill of sherry, the juice of two lemons, the rind of half a lemon, and the white of an egg whisked -vvith half a gill of cold water; stir the jeUy until it boils, and strain thi-ough a iiannel bag. This moss is considered efficacious in cases of debility and chest complaints, but its bitter taste renders it disagreeable. Ices. For the following iees see under their respective headings : Almond Cream Melox Watek Almond and Ou-ange Mil.vnaise Apple Water Mille Fritit Apricot Ice Cream Noyeau Ice Cream Apricot Water Orange Cream Barberry Water Orange Water Bohemian Ice Cre.4.m Orge.at Cream Bread, Brown, Ice Peach Water Cream . Pine-apple AVater Cherry Water Po.megranate Water CHocoL.iTE Cream Raspberry Cream Cinnamon Cream Ratafia Cream Coffee Cream Rum Water Currant Cream Sherbet Currant Water Soda Water Cream Ginger Cream Strawberry Cream Ginger Water Strawberry Water Grape Water Vanilla Cream Lemon Cream Water Ice. Maraschino Ices, Sugar Clarified for. six pounds of sugar in six pints of water. Let it then come slowly to a boU ; add the white of an egg, well beaten, to the water, and boil ten minutes, when it may be strained and bottled for use. Icing for Cakes [see Frost or Icing for Cakes). Icing for Cakes, Almond {see Almond Icing for Cakes) . Icing for Fruit Pies and Tarts. Whisk the white of egg, and mix in finelypounded sugar. Lay the mixture over the tops of the pies, &c., with a soft brush or feather, and if comfits or other ornaments are to l)c put on, lay on the icing thicker. Imperial. Slice a large lemon without paring it, and bruise well two ounces of ginger. Put tliese into an earthen jar with two pounds of loaf sugar and an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour over it two gallons of boiling water, and let it remain until cold ; then stir in two tablespoonfuls of yeast, and cover. Strain the next day, and bottle, when it will be fit i@v use in twenty-four hours. Or, take double the quantity of cream of tartar and lemon, pour over these six quarts of boiling water, and add a quart of rum and sugar to taste. Strain it the next day, when the imperial should be bottled and tightly corked. Probable cost, exclusive of rum, Is. 6d. Imperial Cake. Separate the yolks from the whites of six eggs, beat the yolks until light, and the whites to a firm froth. Have ready the crumb of three French rolls soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Beat the bread and four ounces of wanned butter together, then add the egg-yolks, two ounces of fine sugar (pounded), and some grated lemon-peel. "WTiile beating the nuxture, add currants, su-ltana raisins, pounded blanched ahnonds, and candied peel, two ounces of each, and lastly stir in the frothed whites of the eggs. Bake in a shallow cake-tin and a moderate oven. Sprinkle the tin -wath fine crumbs, and the cake, when done, with fine sugar. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. Imperial Cream.- Put the strained juice of thi-ee lemons into a rather deep glass dish. Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, and poirr it into a jug, stirring in at the same time, by degrees, eight ounces of finelypowdered sugar. Keep the cream stirred until it is nearly cold, and the sugar is quite dissolved, then add it to the strained juice, keeping the jug as high as possible, and mixing the juice and cream well together as it falls from the spout of the jug. This cream should bo allowed several hours to set. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Imperial Drink. Put haK an ounce of cream of tartar into a large jug, which should be well heated fii-st, add the lind of a largo lemon, a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and about three pints of boihng water from the kettle. Cover closely, and let the jug stand near the fire for a*n hour or so. Stir the liquid occasionally while hot, and when quite cold and clear, pour off from the sediment. This is a cooling and pleasant di-ink for the summer. Probable cost, 3d. Imperial Gingerbread. Take twoh-o ounces of dried flour, and blend with it ifix ounces of butter. Make into a paste with a pint of cream and six ounces of treacle stu-red together by degrees before being added to the flour; the cream is liable to get turned if thia is not ciirefully done. Strew in an ounce of caraway seeds, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of powdered ginger. The paste should be stiff'. AYhen cut into shapes, stick candied orange or lemon peel on the top, and bake on a tin plate, well buttered. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. IMP ( 324 ) IND Imperial Gingerbread (another way). ? .V.c Gingerbread, imperial. Imperial Punch, Cold. Cut a pineapple into very thin sHces, and slice also four closelj' -peeled China oranges, leaving none of the white pith attached to thg orange-sHces. Put the slices into a bowl. Extract the flavour from an inch length of vanilla, and a piece of cinnamon, about a drachm in weight, by heating them in a quart of water with the peel of a Se\Tlle orange, liub off the rind of a Jteinon on a lump or two of sugar, and squeeze the ]ui33 from four lemons into the bowl, adding tne sugar with more lemon-juice to make half a pound, then strain in the vanilla Uquid, and cover to get cold. When quite cold mix a bottle each of rum, hock, and champagne, with a pint of seltzer water. Stir well, and serve in chamj agne glasses, cold. Imperial Sehmarn. Separate the yolks from the whites of five eggs, whisk the yolks with a pint of cream, and froth the whites, which will be required when all the other ingredients are mixed. Add to the yolks four ounces of fine flour made sweet with a tablespoonful of double-refined sugar an ounce of sultana raisins, the same of blanched almonds, chopped, and, lastly, the frothed whites, which should be stirred in gently with the rest. Have ready hot, in a clean stewpan, two ounces of butter, pour in the schmirn or batter, let the fire be brisk, and allow it to colour well, but not to burn ; then with an iron spatula, or fork, te;ir the schmarn lightly apart, and allow it to set and brown again, when the same crumbling or tearing process is to be repeated ; and when it has encrusted a second time, break it up smaller, and serve without delay, with pounded sugar and vanilla mixed together strewn over the top. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Imperial Soup. To a pint of strong well-flavoured stock mix five beaten eggs, a little nutmeg, and s;ilt to taste. Stir the liquid, and fill a well-buttered basin or mould. Put on the lid closely, that no water may enter, and plunge the mould into it, boiling. In an hour it will be ready for use, and may be sliced thinly, or cut into small pieces. Serve in a tureen of clear soup. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for two quarts of soup, and eight or ten persons. Imperials. Beat six ounces of butter to a crcjim, and mi.x it well into a pound of dried flour, and eight ounces of sifted sugar. Cut two ounces of candied orange-peel into bits, and grate the rind of a small lemon. Add these with a half a pound of cuiTants by degrees, sprinkling them amongst the flour. -Moisten with four well-beaten egi s, and bake to a pale brown in a gentle oven on a floured tin plate, in the form of little heaps, which is best done by placing the paste with two forks as roughly as possible, and at uniform distances upon the plate. Time about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Indian Bread and Meat, or Koobbe. ? This is a dish frequently met vith in India and Australia, and particularly suitable foi camping or picnics, as it does not require manj pots and pans. An ordinary bread dough is rollod out to any thickness (the thicker the better), a juece of meai, a fine goose, duck, or fowl is enveloped in it, and boiled or lj;iked as may be most convenient. Poultry with appropriate sauces may be cooked thus with little trouble, except the caution which must necessarily be observed, to keei) the stuffing well secured before the bii-ds are put into the dough. Indian Burdwan. A very savoury and highly-approved Indian dish. The joints of a parboiled fowl are generally used for this dish, but if necessary the remains of chicken or fowls that have been served before, and even rabbit, veal, or lamb may be warmed up in the sauce, for which the following is the recipe : Peel and chop very finely four- shallots and an onion. Put them into a ste-w-pan ?itll a small cup of good stock, a table-sjioonf ul of the essence of anchovies, a little cayenne, and an ounce of butter rolled in flour. Stir over the tire until the sauce is ready to boil, then put it aside to simmer, and dress the onions, adding a small cupful of mixed Indian pickles, cut into less than halfinch pieces, a table-spoonful of chili vinegar, and one or two glasses of wine, iMadeira or sherry. Simmer the sauce to make the pickles tender, and pour in the wine when the fowl is ready to be stewed. Skin and lay the fowl in neat pieces into the stewpan ?sWth the sauce, and if the fowl has been only parboiled, stew it gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, but for a thoroughly cooked fowl serve as soon as it is ready to boil, with the juice of a fresh lime. Rice'is sometimes seiwed Wth Burdwan as with curry. Indian Burdwan (another v.-;iy). See Burdwan, Indian. Indian Chutney. Boil together a pint of good vinegar with half a pound of sour, unripe apples, peeled, cored; and qviartered. "When pulped and cool, add, first pounding them separately in a mortar and afterwards together, the following ingredients : Four ounces of stoned raisins, eight ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of garlic, and two oimces of mustard-seed ; mix these well with two ounces of powdered ginger, the same of salt, and one ounce of cayenne. Put the mixture into an earthenware jar, and set the jar in a warm corner by the fire until next morning, when the chutney may be put into small jars and tied down. It will keep good a year or two. Time to stew apples, until soft. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Indian Corn-flour Bread. Take Indian maize and fine wheaten flour in the proportions of two pounds of the former to four pounds of the latter. Mix in an earthen pan, ?sWth a little salt to flavour, and two tablespoonfuls of yeast stirred into half a pint of warm water. Put the yeast into it, after making a hollow in the centre, and make a batter of the surrounding flour, which must be covered lightly with flour and with a warm woollen cloth, and placed before the fire to rise for an hour or 1 well risen, knead the flour into a h with as much more warm water lecessary, and then make it into IND ( 325 ) IND loaves which should be allowed to rise for nearly half an houi' before being baked. Time, an hour and threc-quarturs to two houis. Sufficient for two loaves. Indian Corn-floiir Bread (another way). i tv Bread, Indian Corn. Indian Cress,Nasturtiums, Pickled. The young leaves and tlowers are sometimes used as an ornamental addition to salads. The berries should be gathered in August and September for pickling ; they are ns(;d by some as a substitute for capers. Put them as they are gathered, after rubbing them in a dry clotli, into vinegar, and allow to each iuait two ounces of salt, and fifteen peppercorns. Put the vinegar, &c., into bottles, and till with the nastui'tium seed as it is gathered from day to day. When full, cork tightly. Indian cress is seldom to be bought, but it is easily cultivated, and thi'ives well in i)oor soil. Indian Cress, Nasturtiums, Pickled (another way) . Gather the nastui-tiums before they get old and di-y. Wash the grit from them in cold water, and sprinkle well with salt. Drain them the next day, and when quite dry scatter amongst them, in an earthen pickle-jar, whole pepper, a few cloves, tarragon leaves, and sliced horseradish. Pour vinegar enough to cover, and let it be cold. Indian Crumpets. Stir into a quart of waimed milk two large table-spoonfuls of yeast, ;i little salt, and as much wheat flour as will thicken the milk to a batter. Cover it up closely by the side of the fire until next morning, then add a gill of melted butter, and make into a soft dough with yellow corn-meal. Rub a griddle over with butter, and bake about fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. Indian Curry. Cut up either undressed meat, sweetbreads, fowls, or rabbits, with a rasher of bacon, into neat pieces or joints. Stew in a quarter of a pound of butter a clove of garUc, and an onion or two chopped : which brown over a slow fire, and simmer for twentjminutes in half a pint of good stock. Mix three dessert-spoonfuls of curry-powder, a tablespoonful of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt, in sufficient water to make it into a smooth paste, then add a little more water, if required ; shake the mixture well in the stewpan till it boils. Continue the simmering about twenty minutes, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. The rice should be served in a separate dish ; the gravy in the dish with the meat. Time, an hoirr to stew. Indian Curry. Beat up two eggs with a quarter of a pint of milk, and beat well into the milk a slice of bread previously soaked in milk. Pound a few sweet almonds, and fry a sliced onion in an ounce of butter. Mix all well together with a table-spoonful of curry, another ounce of butter, and six or eight ounces of minced fowl or other cold cooked meat, seasoned with salt. Melt a little butter with pon.o Icmon-jnice, rub a baking-dish with it, and SU with the curry. Serve boiled rice separate-y. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is., excl-isivc of the meat. Indian Curry-powder. It is necessary to have all the seeds used in the i reparation of cui-ry-powder well dried. A cool oven will di-y them best. Put them in at night, they will be ready for pounding in the morning. Pound together an ounce each of coriander and poppy-seed, half an aunce of gi-ound ginger, and the same of mustard-seed, with a quaiter of an ounce of red chilies, and haH a drachm of cinnamon. Cork the bottle containing this mixture tightly. Indian Curry, Simple. Cut up a chicken into nice joints. I'ound in a mortar a small I onion, a clove of garlic, together with an ounce of good curry -powder, and a teaspoonful of salt. Fry a sliced onion in butter till quite brown, take out the pieces, and with the hot butter mix the above ingredients, adding a tea-spoonful of soured cream. Put in the chicken and simmer till done. Time to stew the chicken, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for two persons. Indian Devil Mixture. To a tablespoonful each of vinegar, ketchup, and chutneypaste, add an ounce of dissolved butter, a dessei-t-spoonful of made mustard, salt, and a small cup of good rich gravy. Blend these ingi-edients thoroughly, and add them to the meat. Make all hot together slowly. Time, ten minutes to make hot. Indian Dish of Fowl {see Fowl, Indian Dish of). Indian Fagadu. Pick the meat from a lobster and a pint of shrimps, cut it into small bits, and season it with an onion and a clove of garlic, skred finely, and some cayenne and salt. Prepare some spinach as for boiling put it into a stewpan in the usual way, without water add the lobster, and stew gently with an onion or two sliced, and previously fried in butter, keeping the lid closed for some time. When nearly done, stir the contents over the fire to absorb the moisture, and when quite dry, squeeze in some lemon-juice. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Indian Fritters. Put three tablespoonfuls of floiir into a basin, and nux it to a stiff paste ijvith boiling water. Stir briskly, and beat the batter well or it will not be smooth. Break into the basin two eggs with their whites, and two more yolks without the whites ; the batter must be cool before they are put to it, and when beaten well together with a wooden spoon should have the frothed whites of two eggs added just before frying. Drop the batter from a spoon into boiling lard. The fritters wiU rise verj' high, and only require a little batter ; a dessert-spoonful is quite sufficient to make them a nice size. Preserve or marmalade is served between the fi-itters. Time, six to eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of preserve. Sufficient for four or five persons. Indian Gingerbread. Put a small teacupful of water into a saucepan, and stir well in it, over a slow fire, three-quarters of a pound of pounded sugar and four ounces of butter until they are dissolved ; then work the mixture IND (326) IND into one pound of f ood dr y flour spiced with pounded ginger, cinnamon, and cloves two ounces of ginger to half an ounce of cinnamon and cloves mixed. Bake on tins, either in nuts r cakes. Time, ahout a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Indian Griddle Cake. To one quart of new milk add as much Hour as will make a thick batter. Mix with the milk two eggs well beaten before the mixing, and with the flour a little salt. Rub butter over a hot griddle ; drop the batter from a table-spoon on to it, and bake at once. Indian Le Bon Diable. Make deep scores in the meat to be devilled. If of poultry, the drumsticks, gizzard, and rump are the best for this savoury dish. It is usually prepared at table to suit the palates of the consumers, and from thence sent to the cook to brail. Powder eveiy part with a mixture of the following ingredients : Of salt, cayenne, and curry-powder, equal quantities, and a double quantity of mushroom or truffle powder. Heat some of the gravy from the dishes composing the griU, and when boiling hot pour it over with a little lemon-juice. Indian Maize. Take Indian corn-pods when about as large as radishes. Put them into an earthenware jar, and cover them with boiling vinegar. Intersperse bay-leaves moderately, and a little basilicum crumbled up : or throw the young ears into a saucepan of boiling salted water for twa or three minutes just time enough to restore the water to the boil and then drain. Boil bay -leaves, chili-pods or capsicums, shallots, and a small bit of garlic in vinegar. Pour the vinegar when cold over the corn-cars, sprinkling mustard-seed plentifully over the top of the jar. Cover the jars with bladder, and keep them in a cool place. iH lian Meal, Batter Cakes of {sec Batter Cakes of Indian Meal). Indian Meal Fritters. Make a batter as f+r other fritters with foi-ir or five tablespoonfuls of meal, a pint of warm milk, and four well-beaten eggs. Droi? the batter into boiling lard from a ladle ; have plenty in the pan. Keep each fritter separate, and serve, after drjang before the fire, as quicklj- as possible, that they may not cool. Time, ten to twelve minutes to fry. Indian Meal Johnny Cakes. ilakc into a firm dough one quart of Indian meal, using as miich warm water as may be required, and a little salt. Scoop out some of the meal from the centre, pour in the water, and mix in the iisual way. Knead the dough, and roll it to about an inch in thickness. Lay the cake on a well-buttered gr-iddle over a clear brisk fire, and toast it on both sides. When done, serve at once, spiit and butteired. This is a favourite American cake. Indian Meal, Loaf Cake of {see Loaf Cake, &c.). India'n Meal Mnsli. A popular and substantial article of American food, prepared like the Irish stirabout or Scotch porridge. It requires longer boiling and more careful mixing ; than oatmeal. The meal should be mixed with i boiling water or milk gradually, and stiiTcd ' rapidly between each handful to prevent it from lumping. It requires long bQiling, and ' when boiled is served with salt, sugar, and j milk separately ; or it may be put into a well I buttered basin and served, tm-ned out while I still warm. A half pint of Indian meal I mixed with a quart of boiling milk will ! make a good pudding, with the addition of an , egg, two ounces of butter melted and stirred in, j some pounded sugar, a little salt, nutmeg, and I ginger. Bake in a weU-buttered dish. The I yellow corn-meal is the richest. For a boiled ' suet pudding mix flour with the suet when chopped, or it will not separate equally but : become massed together. Moisten with milk, I and knead and beat the dough, which should I be firm, with the rolling-pin to make it hght. I Make into dumplings of the size of a large j apple, and boil the a separately tied up in cloths j loosely to give room for swelling. The much 1 approved polenta is made with partly-cooked mush turned into a well-buttered shallow baking-dish, and mixed up with grated cheese ; to be baked from fifteen to twenty minutes haK a pound of mush to two ounces of grated cheese. To bake pudding, two hours ; boil, one hour and a half. Indian MuflB.ns. To make good bread, use a larger quantity of wheat flour than of Indian floui'. To one pint of Indian meal mix the same quantity of wheat meal. Moisten and mix the Indian meal -with boiling milk, and when cold add the wheat fl*ui', c?ld milk, and two well-beaten eggs ; stir in a gill of yeast, and make into a dough of soft consistence, which should be covered up in a warm place to rise. Bake in rings as soon as risen. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost. Id. each. SuSicient, one muHin to each person. Indian Mullagatawny Soup. For this favourite Inelian soup take a couple of chickens, a large fowl, a knuckle of veal, or a calf's head, vnth the trimmings, bones, and gristles of the breast of veal. Make a good strong stock ; this must be carefully attended to. Cut the meat into pieces mouthfuls or the fowl into smtdl joints, and simmer gently in about half a gallon of water. Fry si.x middlesized onions and a. couple ?f cloves of garlic shred fine, in two oimces of butter. Pound and mix well together an ounce of coriander seed, a quarter ef an oimce each of chives, turmeric, and cassia, two draclmas of cayenne, and rather more of black pepper. Put these ingredients with two large spoonfuls of rice flour into a basin, mix them with some of the broth the meat has been boiled in, and strain to the rest. Simmer until the soup is about the thickness of cream. Before taking it off the fire add the juice of a lemen to flavour it. Some people use sour apples or other acids in mullagata-s my, but the lemon-juice is preferable. Serve the meat in the soup and boiled rice separately : cut lemons on a plate. Time, simmer from two to throe hours. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. SuiEcient for eight persons. Indian Mustard. To a mixture of mustard and flour in equal quantities, rubbed to a IND (327) IKD smooth stiff paste with hoiling water, add a little salt, and reduce the thickness as follows: Boil down four shallots, shred finely, with a wine-glass each of vinegar and niushi-oom ketchup, and half a glass of ancho y sauce. In ten minutes pour these ingredients, boiling hot, into the basin over the mustard and flour mixture, stirring until it is smooth and of the proper consistency. I'ut a shallot, bruised, into each bottle when stored. Indian mustard will keep for some time, and is excellent as a breakfast relish. Time, ten minutes to boil. Sufficient for a quiu-ter of a pound of mustard. Indian Omelet {see Omelet, Indian). Indian Oysters, Curried. Cut a large onion, or two middle-sized ones, into thin slices, and fry them in butter until brown. Dredge into the pan four dessert-spoonfuls of currypowder, and stir in two more ounces of butter. When the mixture is quite smooth, thin it with half a pint of good wai-m broth, an+L keep it stirred until it boils. Put it into a clean stewpan with the white part of a finely-grated coc*a-nut and a minced sour apple, when it must be again made to boil. Stir until the apple is dissolved and the cocoa-nut is tender, then mix a little floirr and water as thickening, and when thick add the oysters (a hundred, c arefuUy bearded, with their liquor strained), also the milk of the cocoa-n..;t, if sweet. Simmer until the oysters are done. Serve on a hot dish, with boiled rice in another. Time, twenty-five minutes to make curry ; five minutes to stew oysters. Indian Oysters, Curried (another way). See Oysters, Curried, Indian. Indian Pancake. Boil half a tea-cupful of rice in milk and beat it to a pulp, add it to three eggs well beaten, sweeten with sugar and flavour with pounded cinnamon. Fry the whole of the mixture in butter. Do not tui-n the pancake, but when done on one side remove from the pan to the front of the fire to brown the upper side. Strew pounded sugar over, and divide the pancake into four parts before sending it to table. Time, seven or eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. Indian Pickle. Place in a large dish a white cabbage cut into eight divisions, half a pound of. small branches of cauliflower, equal quantities of gherkins, French beans, radishpods, and small onions, also nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, and any other suitable vegetables. Powder them well with salt, and let them remain for a day or two. Drain dry, and put them into a jar, with suflicient vinegar to cover: the vinegar, having been previously boiled, should be poured into the jar co d. Be careful to let the vinegar cover the vegetables, or the pickle will not keep, and to mix the spice equally among the vegetables before the vinegar is poured over them. Use spice as follows the quantity here given is for a gallon of vinegar three ounces of ginger sliced, the same of whole black and leng pepper mixed, twenty shallots, peeled, garlic in modei\at? quantity say about one ounce a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, a quarter of a pound of flour of mustard, two ounces of salt, an ounce of turmeric, and two ounces of mustard-seed. Fruit, such as green grapes, codhng apples, &c., may bo added at any time as they appear in season; but the proportions of spice and vinegar must bo attended to, and any addition to the jar should be first soaked an hour or two in vinegar before being added. When no more additions are to be made, put the pickles into small jars, boil the \-inegar, pour it at once over the pickles so as to cover them, and, when cold, tie doAvn with bladder. If the above directions are attended to this pickle may be kept good many years. When more spice and vinegar are required, mix the spice with a Httle of the cold vinegar first, and then boil it. When boiled, pour it hot over the pickles. Indian Pickle (another way). Cut two cauliflowers and two firm cabbages into quarters, sprinkle them well -n-ith salt, and let them lie in the sun for three days. Soak one poimd of gai'lic and one pound of ginger in salt and Avater f-ir one day, drain, and dry them also in the sun. "When all is ready, put the vegetables into a large stone jar, and add one gallon of vinegar, twelve ounces of crushed peppercorns, one pint of powdered or bruised mustard-seed, and two ounces of turmeric. Cover the jar tightly with bladders, and in six months, if the above directions have been attended to, the pickle will be fit for use. Indian Pickle Sauce. Fry an onion until brown in butter, remove it from the stewpan, and stii- in a dessert- spoonful of currypowder, and a table-spoonful of pickle vinegar. Strain and add the sauce to a quarter of. a pint ef rich melted butter. Cut pickles into dice, and serve them in the sauce. Indian Pilau {ace Pilau, Indian). Indian Pilau, Plain. Cut a fowl into neat pieces, remove the skin, and fry them in a stewpan, with two or three ounces of butter. Take out the fowl, and mix in a tablespoonful of cuiT}--powder, a little salt, and some Indian pickles cut into fine strips; mangoes, however, are preferable, if they are at hand. Put in also a half a pound at least of butter, and return the fowl to the stewpan to simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Have ready about a pound of weU-boiled rice : it should be drj-, so that the grains may separate one from the other. Pile it high in the middle of a dish, on which arrange the fowl, and serve with the sauce poured on the top and round the dish. Sufficient for three or four persens. Probable cost, 4s. 3d. Indian Pilau, Real. Boil a fowl or a piece of meat (about three pounds of veal will do), and reserve the liquor in which it h boiled. Put four ounces of butter into a stevvpan, slice a couple of onions, and fry these, with a few cloves and a small bit of cinnamon, until the onions are slightly coloured, then stir in three-quarters of a pound of ricx3. Stir iftith a fork, until the rice has imbibed the butter, when pour in the reserved hquor from the fowl, and enough veal broth to reach two inches above the rice ; keep it over a gentle fire until rather tender. Clear the rice a little from the centre, and place the IND (328) IND fowl in the hollow. Stew the rice thoroughly ?until the moisture is well dried up. Then place the fowl or meat in a deep dish, and smother it with the rice. Have ready some small onions boiled ; make a garnish of these and hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Arrange blanched almonds, raisins, and a few cloves with them. Time, about an hour. Probable cost of fowl, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Indian Pooloot. Truss a fowl in the ordinary way for boiling. Have ready a quart of stock, and a pound of rice that has been parboiled for five minutes and then drained from the water. Put the fowl with them into a stewpan over a slow fire. Add some onionjuice (pound half a dozen, and extract all their moistui-e by squeezing them in a thin cloth) , a table-spoonful of ground ginger tied in a muslin, and the juic? of a lemon. When the fowl is sufficiently done, keep it warm, and dry the rice before the fire. Have ready three or four onions, sliced and nicely fried in butter. Cut up the fowl into neat pieces, and fry those in the same butter, then pile the rice in the centre of a dish ; the joints of fowl on the top, and the sliced onions next the fowl lightly ?scattered. Strew stewed cardamoms and peppercorns over all. Garnish with fried curled bacon and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve hot. Time to boil fowl, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Indian Pudding. Beat up five eggs with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a crumbled penny spongecake. Boil, but first grate, a cocoa-nut, putting aside all the brown part, in a pint of milk. In ten minutes set the milk to cool, and when sufficiently cooled stir it into the eggs, then put all into a dish previously lined with puff paste, and bake from a half to three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Indian Padding (another way). Butter a pudding-mould, and place on the inside pieces of preserved ginger, cut into nice tasteful forms. Lay slices of spongecake in a bowl, and pour over them a pint of boiling cream, into which, "when well soaked, beat sugar enough to sweeten (say about three ounces), and half a dozen well"whisked eggs. Beat the mixture, and fill the "buttered basin. The pudding may be steamed or boiled for an hour and a half, with a cloth tied over the top. The syrup from the ginger is usually served warmed up as sauce. Turn out the pudding, and send it hot to table, with the sauce poured over it. Probable cost, exclusive of ginger, 2s. 4d. The above ingredients are .sufficient for four small spongecakes. Indian Pudding (another way). Line a pie-dish with some good puff paste, and put an edging of the same round the rim. Place a layer of sliced apples at the bottom, on the paste, add a salt-spoonful of grated niitmeg, and sugar to taste. Next whisk ten eggs, with half a pint of red wine, and at the same time place three French rolls, cut in slices, to soak in a pint of rich cream ; add this with the eggs to the ingredients already in the dish, and bake the pudding from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Indian Pudding, Baked. Stir a quart of boiling milk into a pint of Indian corn meal. Dissolve four ounces of butter by heating it before the fire, mix it first with a pint of molasses, and then, very gradually, with the meal. Flavour with nutmeg and grated lemonrind or cinnamon, and, as soon as the mixture has cooled, add, stirring briskly, six well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish, and bake at once. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Indian Pudding, Cheap. Take half a pint of meal (let it be yellow it is the richest), and a quart of new milk, into which put, wiienboiling, a little salt, nutmeg, and ginger. Stir it into tlie milk gradually, moving the latter briskly all the time. Wh.n smooth, and the heat gone oft", beat up an egg with two ounces of pounded sugar, and add it, with two ounces of finely-shred suet, to the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven. Butter may be used in the place of suet. Time, two hoiu-s to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Indian Salad. Cut the meat of a lobster, or of a crab's claws, into pieces, and slice a couple of cucumbers, with two chilies, a Spanish onion, if liked, and two rennets. The seeds of the fruit should be removed, and the whole seasoned with pepper and salt. Put into the bowl two spoonfuls of vinegar, a little cayenne, and three spoonfuls of the best Luccaoil. Indian Sauce. Boil together for five minutes, in a small quantity of stock, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a bit of glaze the size of a walnut, a table-spoonful of currypaste, and a pinch of cayenne. Mix with the above half a pint of tomato pulp, boil up, and serve. Indian Trifle. Mix half a pound of rice flour with cold milk enough to make a thickish paste. Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, with the rind of a small lemon, and four ounces of sugar to sweeten. Simmer gently, to extract the lemon flavour (do this over a slow fire, and remove the rind as soon as the flavour is gained) ; add the rice flour, and stir steadily for five or six minutes. A few drops of the essence of ratafia or vanilla is a great improvement. If for a glass dish, let the trifle cool a little before turning out, and when quite firm and cold, cut out some of the rice, and introduce boiled custard into the space. This has a very good effect, when some fancy device is shown. Cut an ounce of sweet, almonds (blanched) into spikes, and stick them thickly over the top. Garnish the dish with any preserved fruit or pieces of fruit jell}' of a rich bright colour. Time, a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes to simmer milk, five minutes, rice, after it boils. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for one trifle. Indian Veal Collops. Mix a smaU cupful of grated Vread-crumbs with a dessertspoonful, or rather more, of curry-powder, pepper, and salt. Gut two pounds of veal from the fiUet, and make coUops of a round shape, ING ( 329 ) IBI about three inches across. Beat them well, and smear them with the yolk of egg. Cover the collops with the bread-crumbs and curry-powdcr. They should be thickly incrusted with crumbs, and wiU require to be again saturated with the egg-yolk. Dip them into it this time, and jKiwder well with the Ijread-crumbs. Fry in plenty of butter, and make a sauce with more butter, a little curry-powder, and some good gravy. Thicken with Hour, and add the juice (strained) of a lemon. Boil, and serve round the collops. Time, twenty minutes to fry. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for an entree. Ingoldsby Christmas Pudding. Take of stoned raisins, well-washed currants, and finely-shred suet, each one pound; of flour and stale grated bread-crumbs, mixed, one ])Ound ; and one pound of sifted sugar. Put these ingredients into a large bowl with a quarter of an ounce each of candied peel, cut into bits, and mixed spice, the grated rind of a lemon, and a small nutmeg. Moisten with eight eggs, strained and well beaten, and two glasses of brandy or rum. This quantity will make two good-sized puddings, enough for six persons. Time, six houi-s and a half for the whole quantity, four hours for half. Probable cost, 3s. 4d., exclusive of the brandy. Inky-pinky. Cut slices of under-done roast beef about half an inch thick, and remove the skin and gristle. Boil these trimmings for two houi's with the bones, chopped small, imtil a strong gravy is obtained. Add it to whatever may have been left from the roasting of the previous "day, and strain into a clean stewpan, in which simmer the slices of meat, cold b(jiled caiTot, and an onion cut into quarters. Do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be tough. Add pepper and salt, and a little vinegar or ketchup, thicken the gravy with flour, and serve very hot with sippets of toasted bread. Time to simmer, twenty minutes. Institution Cup (an American drink). Cut an orange into slices, pour over these a glass of brandy, and add a pint of champagne, I a gill each of strawbeixy and pine-apple syrup, i and a tumbler of ice in shaves. These ingi-e- } dients should be well mixed and strained into i tumblers. Invalid's Cutlet. Get a cutlet from the loin or neck of well-fed, fat mutton, but cut away all the fat, and leave nothing but the lean, which put into a stewpan, with just enough water to cover it and a very little salt. Stew gently, and add a smtdl quantity of celery cut into thin shavings. Carefully skim off any fat that may appear on the top, and when it has stewed about two hours without boiling, the meat will be easy of digestion. Add pepper and salt to taste. Time to stew celery, thirty to thirty-five minutes. Invalid's Lemonade. Put about half of a sliced lemon, pared and divested of the inner sldn or pith, with the parings, and an ounce or two of lump sugar, into a jug, pour boiling water over these ingredients, and cover closely. In two hours strain for use. To the above quantity of lemon add a pint of water, which 22 will make a refreshing lemonade. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint. Invalid's Soup. SpHt a calf s foot, and cut a pound of good, lean, juicy beef and a pound of lean mutton into small pieces. Put them, together with half a gallon of water, into an earthenware jar, and bake in a slow oven from six to seven hours, adding another quart of water, a small tea-spoonful of whole allspice, and a leaf or two of sage, when the mixture has been stewing three or four hoiirs. When the soup is reduced to half the quantity, strain tlirough a sieve, and, when cold and a jeUy, remove the fat. This soup may be taken cold, or warmed up with a little vermicelli, and pepper and salt to taste. Probable cost, 28. Id. Sufficient for three pints. Irish Black Pudding. This pudding is excellent cut into thick slices when cold, and broiled over a clear fire, or warmed in an oven. If so served up it should only be boiled an hour, but will require longer time if eaten hot. To a pound of good beef suet, chopped very fine, half a pound of bread-cnunbs, and the same of wellwashed currants, add four ounces of pounded sweet almonds, a tea-spoonful of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, in powder, some candied peel, and enough loaf sugar to sweeten. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat the yolks, and moisten the above ingredients with them stirred into the mixture with a pint of cream and a glass of brandy. Lastly, put in the fiothed whites of two eggs and boil in a cloth. Sufficient for five or six persons. Irish Brade Breachd. To a quaitem of flour rub in lightly a quarter of a pound of butter, melted. Mix it in an earthenware pan to a dough, with three table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and warm water enough to make the dough firm, then put it in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the following ingredients : Of cirrrants, well washed and dried, stoned raisins, and finelypowdered sugar, each a quarter of a pound; some candied peel, cut into strips, half a large nutmeg, grated, and some blanched sweet almonds, chopped. Make into loaves and bake. Irish Brade Breachd (another way). Get dough fr&m the baker, and let it rise in a covered pan before the fire, then beat the butter to a cream, and warm the milk, about a quarter of a pint, slightly, add it with the other ingredients, and knead well for a few minutes. Cake-tins should be buttered, and only half filled. Put them in a warm place to rise before being put into the oven. Time, from an hour and three-quarters to two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for a loaf. Irish Cake. Put a pound of good fresh butter into a large bowl, and tnm it back to a cream with the hand. When well turned, beat into it three-quarters of a pound of dried sugar, finely sifted and made hot before the fire. Separate the yolks from the whites of nine eggs, and, when well beaten, stir in the yolks, keeping the hand moved round in the same direction for about twenty minutes, when dredge in by degrees a pound and a quarter of dry flour, mixing well, as before, for another twenty IBI ( 330 ) IE! miautes. Add four ounces of blanched almonds, sliced, the same of candied peel, one pound or more of well- washed and diied currants, a glass of brandy, and, lastly, stir in gently the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Bake in a hot oven and in a round buttered tin. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 33. lOd. Sufficient for two cakes. Irish. Griddle Cake, To every three pounds of flour allow a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda and a little salt. Mix the carbonate of soda with some sweet buttermilk about three breakfast-cupfuls. Make it into a stiff paste. KoU it until smooth, and turn it upon the griddle often to prevent burning. Time, according to size. Irish Luncheon Cakes. Mix two pounds of dried flour with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a tea-spoonful of salt. liub into the flour a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and add half a pound of clean currants, an ounce of candied peel, and a toaspoouful of carbonate of soda. IMix these ingredients with the whites of four eggs whisked to a stiff froth, and as much buttermilk as will make the dough of a moderate finnness. Half till buttered tins, and bake in a tolerably quick oven to a light brown. Time, one hour to balcc. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two cakes. Irish Moss. One ounce of selected Irish moss should be well washed, and then soaked in a quarter of a pint of cold water for three or four hours. Add a pint of cold milk or milk and water, boil for a few minutes, strain through fine nmslin, and set aside to cool. Irish Moss- may be fla 'oured with cinnamon, sugar, and lemon, or vanilla. It will set a firm jelly. It is not- much used, gelatine being so cheap, and less troublesome. Irish Pancakes. Beat eight eggs, separating the yulks from the whites. Warm a pint of cream in a rather large stewpan, over a slow fire ; strain, and stir the beaten yolks to the cream and three ounces of butter, previously melted ; add two ounces of pounded sugar, and dredge in six ounces of flour. When mixed quite smooth, stir into the batter grated nutmeg and lomon-peel, with the frothed whites of four eggs. Fry in butter. Pour only enough batter in the pan to make a thin pancake, and, when done serve the pancakes hot, piled one on .another, in a hot dish. Time, about five minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Irish Pancakes (another way). Mix a pint of cream v ith half a dozen fresh eggs, beaten and strained. Add a glass of sherry, two or three ounces of butter, melted, some pounded cinnamon, andnutmeg, grated, a quarter of a pQund of white sugar, and flour sufficient to make an ordinary batter. Rub butter over a, clean pan, and, when the batter is quite smooth, drop in the quantity to make a thin pancake. Powder the pancakes well with sugar, and serve them piled one on the other, or fold them with a layer of apricot marmalade between. A cut lemon is the usual accompaniment. Time, about five minutes. Irish Puffs. Make a light batter with a table-spoonful of flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and five weU-beaten yolks of eggs. Add nearly an ounce of melted butter, and stir into the batter half a pint of cream and the frothed whites of the eggs. Beat the batter before adding the cream, &c., for neaiiy fifteen minutes. Bake in buttered cups. Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six cups. Irish Rock. A sweet for dessert, composed of abnonds, sugar, and butter pounded together, and moulded into an egg-like shape. It has a very pretty appearance when arranged to contrast with green sweetmeats and brightcoloured preserved fruits. "Wash the salt from haK a pound of butter, and beat into it a quarter of a pound of finely-powdered sugar ; IP.ISH KOCK. blanch a pound of sweet ahnonds and an ounce of bitter. Pound these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet almonds to spike for ornamenting the dish when sent to table ; add the butter and sugar, with about a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound until smooth and white, when, after having become fii-m, it may be shaped with a couple of spoons. It should be placed high on a glass dish with a decoration of green sweetmeats, the spiked almonds, and a sprig of mjniile. Garnish with any green fniits or sweetmeats. Irish Rolls. Put a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea- spoonful of carbonate of soda to two pounds of flour, sweetened with about two tea-spoonJuls of finely-powdered sugar. Beat the whites of a couple of eggs to a froth, and make a dough with them, adding as much good sour buttermilk as wiU make an ordinary paste. Shape into cakes or rolls at once, and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to size. Sour milk may be used, but buttermilk will make the rolls richer. Probable cost. Id. each. Irish Salnion Pickle. Trim any part of salmon left from dinner, or boil a nice handsome piece. Lay it in a deep dish, and, when cold, pour over it the following pickle, also cold. If closely covered and well basted with the pickle the salmon will keep many days : Boil together in half a pint of vinegar, a giU IRI (331 ) ISI of water, a gill of white wine, some sHeed horseradish, two blades of mace, two bayleaves, whole pepper, allspice, and a little salt. Let it get cold, and pour it over the lish. Time, ten minutes to boU. Irish Sandwiches. Cut the meat in very thin slices from partridges, grouse, or any game that has been roasted, and shred some celery. Lay the meat on delicately thia fresh toast it it should be crisp, and not tough strew celery over, and season weU with Tartar sauce. Serve in squares, and on a napkin. Irish Seed Cake. Break nine eggs, yolks and whites, until they are light, and turn eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream, adding by degrees a little rose-water until a quarter of a pint has been used. Mix with the butter a l ound of finely-powdered sugar, and add the beaten eggs. Beat the mixture, and dredge into it three-quarters of a pound of well-dried flour and nearly a quarter of a pound of rice flour. Flavour with essence of any kind liked, and scatter in an ounce of caraway-seeds Jand some pounded bitter almonds. Bake in a quick oven. The baking -tin should be lined with paper, and both tin and paper must be well buttered. Time, an hour and a half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Irish Soup, or Balnamoon Skink. In many parts of Ireland a good joint of meat is a thing to be wished for, but not to be obtained at short notice. Poultry is always to be had in plenty, and verj' cheap, hence, on an emergency, two or three fowls may be expeditiously put into a pot to boil imtil their juices are thoroughly extracted and the broth is rich and good. One or more of the fowls, if to be served separate, may be trussed as for boiling, and removed as soon as done, but they are best cut up when intended only for soup. When well boiled, strain the soup through a colander into a clean saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, chives, and chopped young onions. Add celery, lettuce, and, if in season, a few green peas. Stew until the vegetables are tender. A liasion of two beaten eggs and a cup of cream will greatly improve the soup. The trussed fowl is sometimes served in the tureen -wdth the soup. When sent to table separately, thicken some of the broth, and pour it over the fowl. Irish Stew. Take from two to three pounds of chops from the best end of a neck of mutton, or the same weight of the breast. If from the breast, stew the meat, cut into small pieces, before putting it with the vegetables, for an horn-, and take ofE the fat from the gravy. Pare a dozen or more largo potatoes (floury ones), put a thick layer of them, quartered or sliced first, into a saucepan, and cover them with meat well seasoned with pepper and salt. Over this strew sliced onion, bits of turnip and carrot, if liked, and fill up with alternate layers of vegetables and meat until all be used. The seasoning must not be forgotten, or the stew will bo insipid. A little mushroom ketchup is an improvement. Pour in a pint and a half of broth or water, close the lid, bring to a boil, and draw it, if by the side, off the fire, to simmer for two hours and a half. Irish Stew (another way). Put some neat chops, cut from the neck of mutton, into a stewpan ; they should be ti-immed, and the bones shortened a little. Braise them for half an hour, and season with pepper, salt, and a few chopped mushrooms. Butter a mould, and thickly line it with mashed potatoes ; lay in the chops, and bake. When done, turn out on a hot dish, and pour in some good gi'avy through an opening on the top. Time, about half an hour to bake. Two dozen potatoes will be quite suflicient for this dish. Irish Stew, Australian {sec Australian Irish Stew). Irish Stew, Kidney [see Kidney Irish stew) . Irish Tripe+ 5-Procui-ethe tripequite fresh, cut it into sivps or pieces of two inches broad and four inches long, stew them for an hour in milk and watelj and a little salt; add onions, and boil them iintil tender. Put the tripe on a dish, thicken so&ie of the sauce with flour and butter, and mix in a little mustard and the onions, which should be first drained and beaten tlu'ough a sieve. Make the sauce hot, and serve it poured over the tripe. If hked, a little lemonjuice may be added. Time, an hour to stew tripe alone; about three-quarters of an hour with onions. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Irish Usquebagh CordiaL Stone a pound of the best blue raisins, and rub off the rind of a Se lle orange on lumps of sugar. Bruise the raisins in a mortar, with a quarter of an ounce each of cloves and cardamoms and a grated nutmeg. Put these ingredients into a jar, and poxu- over them half a gallon of French brandy or flavourless whisky ; add the sugar and half a pound of sugar candy (brown), also a little colouring matter, tincture of saffron or spinach -juice. Stir or shake the jar everj' day. Time to infuse, two weeks. Irish Walnut Ketchup. Extract tlie inner white part of some green walnuts, and, after poimding them thoroughly, strain off the juice to make it clear, let it stand for twelve hoiirs, and strain again. Add to each pint of juice a large onion, two ounces of horseradish, sliced, half an ounce of shallots, a clove of garlic, haK a pint of vinegar, and haK a pound of anchovies. Tliese ingredients beingwell mixed, bod for two hours. When cold, strain the liquor until quite clear, then add to each pint of the ketchup half an ounce of spice (mace, cloves, nutmeg, and whole black pepper in equal quantities) , two wine-glassfuls of port, and a quarter of a glass of soy. Boil again for three-quarters of an hour, but do not strain the liquor, as the spices must be distributed in the several bottles in which it is placed. The saucepan must always be kept closely covered, or the delicious aromatic flavour will evaporate. Pour the ketchup into a jar, and cover till cold, when it can be poured into bottles, but the greatest attention must be paid to their being clean and dry. Seal the corks. Probable cost. Is. per pint. Isinglass and Grelatine Jelly. When jelly is to be made for the table, isinglass and gelatine are frequently uaed instead of caK's-foot ISI ( 332 ) ISI stock, and possess the advantage of being made much more easily and quickly. From isinglass especially, many wholesome and agreeable dishes may be made. It is, however, difficult to give the exact proportions to be used, as isinglass differs so much in quality. The best may be known by its dull-looking, hard skin, and by its requiring fully half an hour's boiling to dissolve it. The commoner kinds dissolve very quickly, and may be known by their white, fine appearance. When good isinglass is used two ounces are sufficient for a quart of jelly. Simmer the isinglass, until it is thoroughly dissolved, in a pint of water. Just before it is taken from the fire, add a tea-spoonful of strained lemonjuice, a table-spoonful of cold water, and a lump of sugar. Let all boil together two or three minutes and remove the scum carefully as it rises. Strain through a jelly-bag, add wine, lemon- juice, sugar, and flavouring according to taste, and pour into a damp mould. Let the jelly remain in a cool place until it is quite firm. If very stiff it can be turned out more easily if it is dipped into boiling water for a moment. Probable cost. Is. per ounce. Sufficient for a pint of jelly. Isinglass Clarified for Jelly {see Jolly, Isinglass Clarified for). Isinglass Jelly, Constantia. Dissolve an ounce of the best isinglass in a pint of water. Put to it a quarter of a pound of good loaf sugar, and part of the rind of a Seville orange, pared thin so as to leave none of the white skin. Simmer over a slow fire, add nearly a pint of Constantia, strain through a muslin, doubled three or four times, and mould when cool, carefully keeping back any sediment. As a general rule moulds should be soaked in water some two or three hours before they are used. Time, about fifteen minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 1 s. 4d., exclusive of wine. Sufficient for two moulds. Isinglass Jelly, Cranberry. Mix a quart of cranberry- juice with a pint of isinglass jelly and half a pound of loaf sugar, boil it for five minutes, and, after steaming, pour into a mould. Instead of isinglass, this jelly is some- times made with ground rice as follows : Strain the juice of a quart of cranberries after they have been boiled ; mix with it slowly enough ground rice to thicken it to the consistency of jeUy ; now boil it, taking care that the rice doe's not adhere to the bottom of the pan, add sugar to taste, pour into a mould, and, when cold turn out on a glass dish, \\nth a garnish of Devonshire cream. Probable cost of isinglass. Is. per ounce ; ground rice, 3d. to 4d. per pound. Isinglass Jelly, Currant and Raspberry. Bruise in a jar two pounds of red and one pound of white currants with a pint of red raspberries ; place the jar in boiUng water to extract the juice. Boil three-quarters of a pint of water, two ounces of isinglass, and a pound of loaf sugar together, allow both the fruit juice, when strained, and the sweetened isinglass to cool, then mix equal quantities, pour into shapes and place the jeUy in ice. Probable cost of isinglass, Is. per ounce. Isinglass Jelly, Fruit {see Fruit Isinglass JeUy). Isinglass Jelly, Grape {sec Grape Isinglass Jelly). Isinglass Jelly (Invalid Cookeky). a pleasant and nourishing jelly is made by boiUng isinglass shavings and a portion of the brown crust of a loaf seasoned with Jamaica peppers. To an ounce of the shavings and a quart of boiling water, add a tea-spoonful of Jamaicii peppers, and the bread-crust, which should be brown, but not black. Boil until it has wasted a i int. This jelly will remain good for some time. A spoonful may bo put into soup, tea, or any other beverage. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Isinglass Jelly, Lemon. Peel the rind of two lemons, without any of the white inner skin, and put it into an ounce and a half I of isinglass clarified in a pint of water, and I sweetened according to taste say with half j a pound of loaf sugar. Strain the juice of j four large lemons, and poui- it gently into. j the isinglass when cool. Pour it at once (the I lemon-rind must be taken out, but the liquid i need not be strained) into small moulds, or i into one large one, and cover with ice broken ! small. This jelly may be made from calf's I foot stock. Put to each pint the juice of three lemons. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable cost, '2s. The above ingredients are sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Isinglass Jelly, Lemon (another way) See Lemon Isinglass Jelly. Isinglass Jelly, Orange. To the juice of eight fine sweet oranges and four Seville, well strained, add an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in boiling water, sweeten with six ounces of pounded loaf sugar, and stir it gently over the fire, but do not let it boil. Pour the jeUy into earthenware moulds when nearly cold, the moulds having been previously filled with cold water. Probable cost, 3s. Isinglass JeUy, Orange (another way). See Orange Isinglass JeUy. Isinglass JeUy, Strawberry. Take a quart of tine ripe scarlet strawberries, and pomover them a pint of water that has boiled for twenty minutes with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar. The next flay, drain off th,e syrup from the strawberries without bruising them, and, to increase the fruity flavour, add a little lemon-juice and half a pint of red currant juice. Clariiy two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water, and let it stand till nearly cold, then mix it with the fruit-juico and pour into moulds. It is desirable to place the moulds in ice. Probable cost, 2s. lOd., exclusive of fruit. Isinglass, To Clarify. Allow one quart of fresh water, the beaten white of an egg, and two table-spoonfuls of lemon- juice to each quarter of a pound of isinglass; mix these ingredients thoroughly, and put them into a saucepan ; take care that the isinglass does not burn at the bottom of the pan, and remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and put aside for use. The isinglass should be quite clear. A number of excellent jeUies may be made by extracting the juice from fresh fruit and mixing with it a little isinglass, without boUing. The flavour and colour are both better than when the juice is ISL ( 333 ) ITA boiled. The beet isinglass will require half an hour's gentle boiling to dissolve it. Isle of Wight Cracknels. Beat well the yolks of four eggs with two table-spoonfuls of oiange-flower water, add the best part of a small nutmeg and a little salt to about a pound and three-quarters of fine flour, and make it into a stiif paste with the egg. Squeeze out all the milk from one pound of fresh butter, which roll into the paste, and form into cracknels. The cracknels iire to be first boiled, and when done enough (this may be known when they float to the surface) plunge them into cold water to harden. Bake on tins as soon as dry. Probable cost 2s. 6d. Italian Cream. Put a pint of cream and milk, in equal parts, into a saucepan, with loaf sugar according to taste, and the rind of a lemon, reserving the juice. Keep it boiling slowly until the lemon has sufficiently flavoured, then strain it into a bowl, in order to mLx freely the yolks of four eggs already well beaten. Pour this mixture into a jug, and set the jug in boiling water. Take care that the contents do not boil; stir them till they become thick, when remove the cream from the fire, and stir into it the juice of the lemon and an ounce of dissolved isinglass. The cream must now be well whipped, and, if it is to be served in glasses, drained on a sieve, but if for a mould fill the mould with the cream when whipped, and set it in a cold place (on ice if possible) to set. Turn the cream out on a glass dish, and ornament with crystallised or preserved fruits. Time, from five to eight minutes to stir in the jug. Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half. Italian Cream (another way) . Stir into a pint of thick cream the rinds of two lemons i-ubbed off on lumps of sugar, and as much more pounded loaf sugar as will sweeten. Whisk Tip the cream with the juice of one lemon, strain an ounce or more of dissolved isinglass to it, and beat weU together. Flavour with noyau or curacjoa, and fill a mould. Freeze, turn out, and garnish with any kind of sweetmeats or preserved fruits. Time, haK an hour. Probable cost 28. 9d., exclusive of liquors. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Italian Cream (anotherway). SceCrcam, Italian. Italian Jelly. This is made with any fruit jelly. Take an earthenware mould which has previously lain in cold water for two or three iours, fill it about half-way up with jelly. When it is quite firm, place upon it a thick layer of stiff blancmange, cut toithe size of the mould. Now fill up with another fruit jelly nearly cold. Italian Macaroni Soup. Drop three ounces of maciironi into boiling water, and keep it boiling for twenty minutes. Drain, and cut it into inch lengths, or it may be broken before being put into the water. Have ready two quarts of clear gravy soup, boiling hot, into which throw the macaroni, and simmer for about ten minutes. Serve with grated Parmesan in a dish. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for eight persons. Italian Macaroons. Blanch and pound eight ounces of sweet almonds (expose thom to the air for a day or two before they are rc {uired to be poimded) with a little orange-flower water, twelve ounces of sifted sugar, and the frothed whites of throe eggs. Smooth the ingredients by rubbing them well together, add gradually several more frothed whites, and, when the paste looks soft and smooth, drop it, in quantities about the size of a walnut, through a funnel on to some wafer-paper. Bake on the ordinary plate, in a rather slow oven, to a pale colour. A strip or two of almond sliould be stuck on the top of each macaroon before baking. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 8d. per pound. Italian Meringues. Boil a pound of the finest lump sugar in a pint of water. When it has boiled long enough to whiten and become flaky as it drops from the spoon, scrape from the sides of the pan any sugar that may be adhering, and stir in six whites of eggs, which have been whisked to the stiffest possible froth; do this very gi-adually and slowly, at the same time mixing the mass as briskly as possible to make it smooth. Continue to stir until the mixture is firm enough to retain the shape of a tea-spoon, in which it is now to be moulded. Slip the meringues quickly off on paper, and harden in a gentle oven, that they may retain their delicate whiteness. Almonds are sometimes pounded, and mixed with the eggs and sugar. These are very superior to the plain meringues, but they will require more care in baking, and they will take a longer time ; they should be crisp, and only lightly browned. Blanch and jwund the almonds. Time, twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. Italian Pastes. Italy is famous for its various kinds of paste, the best being made from the small Sicilian wheat, which is harder, and contains more albumen than our northern wheats. Macaroni, lasagni, vermicelli, are all of the same paste, as are stars, rings, and other shapes. The Genoese paste is made of the finest and whitest flour, but every city has its paste manufactory. The Neapolitan is of slightly coarser flour, but when fresh is often preferred by cooks, as it is more speedily dressed. The price of macaroni is now much less than formerly, the Neapolitan being only sixpence per pound, and Genoese one shilling per pound. There is a French paste manufactory at Grenoble, but the article it turns out is of inferior quality. In Italy, pastes of all kinds are dressed in fowl or veal stock for the better tables, and in beef or other bouiUon for the ordinary ones. Pannesan and Gruyere cheese accompany the dish, but in England, on account of the expense, home products, such as C3ieshire and Derbyshire, may be substituted. Genoa is famous for its ravioli soup, one of the best macaroni soups sent to table. Italian Pie. Cut thin slices of veal from the fillet, and prepare a careful seasoning of thyme, parsley, a couple of sage-leaves, pepper (white and cayenne), and salt. Cover the ITA ( 334 ) ITA bottom of the pie-dish with the meat, strew the seasoning over, and lay thin slices of ham, previously dressed, upon the top. Distribute forcemeat-balls throughout, and fill up the dish with veal, ham, forcemeat-balls, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pour in half a pint of rich white stock before baking, and a large cup of cream when the pie is ready for the table. Cover the dish with a puff paste, put an ornament in the centre, which can be removed to put in the cream, and bake in a quick oven. Two pounds of veal and five ounces of ham will make a good pie. Time, an hour and a half to bake. The above quantities are sufficient for five or six persons. Italian Polenta. This is an Italian and American dish, made from Indian corn-flour in America and Italy, but in England semolina is used for the purijose. Four ounces of this seed wiU thicken a quart of milk ; the semoHna is stirred into it when the milk is on the point of boiling, and simmered for about ten minutes after. Throw the polenta into a dish to get cold ; cut it into slices, powder it thickly with grated Parmesan, moisten it with oil or clarified butter, and bake. Serve quite hot, with more cheese on a separate dish. Time, half an hornto bake. Probable cost, exclusive of cheese, 5d. Italian Polpetti. Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mince finely half a pound of any cooked moat without fat ; put these ingredients, together with a slice of ham or tongue, into a stewpan ; add a quarter of a pint of Italian sauce and two small tea-spoonfuls of piquant sauce. Stir over the fire until well heated throughout, then take out the polpetti on a marble slab or large flat dish, spread the paste (for such it will be) evenly to about a quarter of an inch thick, and let it get cold, when it is to be cut into small cakes with a tin cutter. These are now to be fried, egged, and breadcrumbed in boihng lard. Use up the fragments of paste, press them together, and cut into cakes as before. Time, ten minutes to fry. Italian Pork Cheese. Season rather highly with salt, pepper, and herbs (sage, thyme, parsley, and sweet basil), about a pound of lean pork cut into small bits. Chop finely a pound and a half of the inside fat of the pig, and mix and press the ingredients together. Fill a shallow baking-tin, make the top quite smooth, and bake slowly in a very quiet oven. Serve cold in slices. Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, 2s. . Italian Potage (brown soup). Take any young vegetables in season turnips, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, &c. Slice three or four onions, and fry them in butter with two turnips, two carrots cut in ribbon-like strips, a head of celery, and the white part of a leek in inch pieces. Stew gently in the butter, letting them colour slightly. Add good rich veal gravy, salt to taste, and serve, when the vegetables are tender, on grilled crusts, previously moistened vith a little of the gi'avy. Asparagus tops, green peas, and young lettuces improve this potage. Time, fry until the vegetables are tender. Italian Pudding. Soak three sliced French rolls in a pint of cream which has been boiled and sweetened with loaf sugar. Beat up eight eggs, and add them to the soaked rolls when cool. Line a well-buttered dish with pulf paste, the bottom of which fill with sliced apples, leaving enough of the dish empty to hold the cream. Strew sugar and some sliced candied peel on the top of the apples, add a glass of red wine, and, lastly, the cream. Edge the dish with some of the puii paste, and bake in a rather quick oven. Time, about half an houi'. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Italian Pudding, Boiled. Get two stale roUs, grate the crumb into a pint of milk, and boil it very carefully for ten minutes. Throw it into a basia to cool. Meanwhile, beat the yolks of thi-ee eggs, add them, with nearly half a pound of pounded sugar, a flavouring of vanilla, a few currants or Malaga raisins, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm frotli. This pudding should be steamed. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered basin, tie it down, and set it in a saucepan with boilingwater reaching to half the height of the basin. Keep it boiling an hour, and serve with wine, brandy, or rum sauce poured over it. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Italian Pyramid. Cut from good puff paste, rolled out rather thick, as many circular pieces as will be required for the desired height of the pyramid. Tin cutters are best for the purpose, but almost any article of a circular form may be substituted for the tin cutter. The sizes, the largest of which is the base, decrease from it, gradually tapering to the top. Pile the pieces one on the other after they are baked, placing round the edges preserve, marmalade, or jelly of any kind, but they must be baked separately on buttered tins over which is laid a buttered paper. The paste should be made in the proportion of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and nearly half a pint of water. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Italian Roll, Mix together half a pound of fine flour and from four to five ounces of sifted sugar. Put into a clean saucepan half a pint of new milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; bring it to the boiling point, and stir in gradually the flour and sugar. Beat well four fresh eggs, add them with the grated rind of a lemon, stirring imtil the mixture is thick like dough. Put it out on a pasteboard, and when cold roU to the desired thickness, about a quarter of an inch. Lay any kind of jam over the paste, roU it into a bolsterlike form and bake. Serve cold whole or in slices of nearly an inch thick. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 2d., exclusive of jam. Italian Rusks. Slice a stale Savoy biscuit and di\'ide the slices into two pieces, wliich bake in a slow oven until they are crisp and hard. Let them cool, and put them in a diy place, and in a close tin canister, to preserve their crispness. They should be a nice brown ITA ( uoO ) IVO when baked. Probable cost. 3d. per dozen. Three cakes are enough for one dozen rusks. Italian Salad. Italian salads comprise every variety of vegetables, cooked or raw, and meat or fish, though it must not be supposed that the diJBterent ingxedients arc heaped together without due regard to harmony. We give here one of the best salads : Slice a couple of cold potatoes and the half of a beetroot, and mix them with some boiled celery and brussels sprouts. Season with vinegar or Tartar sauce. Add any cold meat in small pieces, and serve as soon as mixed. Place the meat lightly in the bowl, and throw the Balad mixture over. If stirred, a fork should be used. Italian Salad (another way). Pile the white meat of a chicken, picked from a cold one roasted, boiled, or fricasseed, in the centre of a dish, and shred a little lean ham to distribute equally amongst it. Veal also may be used cut in very thm slices about the size of a shiUing. Surround the meat with a wall of young crisp lettuces, small cress, or any salad vegetables in season. Boil some eggs hard, remove the yolks, and cut the whites into thin rings, which arrange in chains over the top. Pour over the centre any salad sauce, in which cream should predominate, and serve at once, that the salad may not get sodden. Italian Sandwiches. Beat up the yolk of an egg with nearly a quarter of a pint of cold water, and make with it into a stifr paste a qiiarter of a pound of baked flour, into which two ounces of good butter have been rubbed, an ounce and a half of sifted siigar, and as much cinnamon as will lie on a shilling. Put this paste on a board and roU it out very thin (it should not be quite a quarter of an inch), divide it into strips of an incli in width, and from three to four inches in length. These strips must be first hardened. Put them in a cool, well-ventilated place. In the meantime prepare the following mixture : Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, with two ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Blanch and poimd two ounces of sweet and twelve bitter ahnonds, mix them with the egg-froth until it is a soft smooth paste, when spread half the strips of paste with the mixture, and cover with the other haK. Bake a pale brown. Time, four or five hours to harden, sixteen to eighteen minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Italian Sauce. Fry six mushrooms and two shallots, finely minced, in an oimce of butter ; when brown add a quarter of a pint of good stock, and half a pint of Spanish sauce. When the latter is not at hand, take half a pint of stock, and a glass of champagne or other light wine. Probable cost, exclusive of wine. Is. Time to simmer, after the stock is added, twenty minutes. The above ingredients are suflScient to fill a sauce tureen. Italian Sauce for Boiled Beef { ce Beef, Boiled, Italian Sauce for). Italian Sauce (Pousse et Blanche). Put the following ingredients into a stewpan: Two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one of parsley, half a shallot, the same of bay-leaf ; add pepper and salt to taste. Stew them gently. with just enough espagnolc sauce to moisfen them, and thin to a proper consistency v,-itk good strong broth. Strain for use. For ssiucc blanche, moisten with veloule in the place of espagnole. Italian Sauce, White (ariothcr way). Chop three shallots, a bit of garlic as big as a pea, and as many button-mushrooms as will fill a table-spoon twice. Put them v ith a breakfastcupful of stock into a stewpan, add a large slice of ham, which shoiild be minced, and simmer over a slow fire. In about half an hour add a quarter of a pint of bechamel ; boil, and strain. Season with salt, haK a tea-spoonful of sugar, the same of vinegar, and a squeeze of lemonjuice. The probable cost wiU be about lOd. Sufiicient for a dish. Italian Steak. Take two or three pounds of steak from the rump or fillet let it be quite an inch and a half in thickness. Brown it in a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, tui-ning it frequently over a quick fire. When brown alike on both sides, remove the steak to a baking-pan, with a tight-fitting lid (earthenware pans are always used for this purpose on the Continent), and fry two medium-sized onions, sliced, a shallot, minced, and a bunch of parsley in the same butter. Throw this over the steak in the pan. Add two large v ineglassfuls of port, and two breakfast-cupfuls of stock, with a root of celery cut into pieces, two pickled gherkins, four or five cloves, I a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. i Cover down the lid tight, that no steam may escape, and let it bake in the oven nearly an I hour and a half, when put in a turnip and a I carrot, whole, and close as before. If the roots I are young they will be done in haK an hour. ' Cut them into dice, and lay them over the top : of the steak, which should be placed on a hot j dish. Send to table with the gravy sti'aincd. I over. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. I Italian Sweetmeat. Dissolve a pound I and quarter of loaf sugar in half a pint pr water. Boil it for fifteen minutes, adding when clear haK a wine-glassful of orange-flower water. Take out a quarter of a pint of the syrup to cool. Hold over the boiling sugar a small funnel and drop the stirred yolks (not beaten) of sixteen eggs gradually through, so as to fall in balls ; these when set must be taken out and drained. Blanch and pound to a paste twelve ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, stir it into the boiling sugar, with, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, simmer tiU the whole thickens, and rub through a sieve. Shred finely a quarter of a pound of pineapple, haK the quantity of angelica, and six ounces of mixed candied peel ; put these in layers with, the almond paste and egg-balls into a buttered pie-dish, and pour over the top the whites of five eggs, beaten to a froth with the cold clarified sugar. Bake in a brisk oven, and turn out carefullj'. This sweetmeat is better eaten cold. Time to make, an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Ivory Dust Jelly (Invalid Cookery). Put a pound of ivory powder into three quarts of cold water. Place it on a gentle IVO ( 336 ) JAM fire, or in the oven, and let it simmer slowly for four or five hours, until the liquid is reduced more than half. Put it aside, and when quite cold and stifE, lift off the jellied part, being careful to leave the sediment untouched, and proceed as recommended for calf's-foot jelly {see Calf's Foot Jelly). Ivory jelly is excellent for consumptive patients. Time, four or five hours to simmer the ivory dust. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. The above ingredients are sufficient for a pint and 6, hall of jelly. Ivory Jelly (iNVALro Cookery). Infuse six ounces of ivory powder, and simmer them in three pints of cold water until the liquid is reduced to half the quantity. Let it get cold to jelly, and remove the sediment. When warmed, add a little cinnamon or a few cloves, the juice and some of the rind of a lemon, and sugar enough to sweeten. Let the jelly dissolve slowly without reducing it further. Strain for Jack {see Bottle-jack and Screen). Jam, General Observations on. In making jams or preserves, care must be taken first of aU that the fruit is gathered ?on a dry day, and when the morning sun is ow the garden. If gathered in damp or foggy 'weather the jam will certainly become mouldy, 'and conseqjtently will not be worth the trouble and # pei of boiling. The fruit should be free from dust, and any that is unsound ehould be cast aside. It should be boiled as eoon as possible after it is gathered. The best quality of sugar, either white or brown, will be found the cheapest in the end. White sugar should be shining and close in appearance. Brown sugar bright and gravelly. The inferior sugai-s throw up so much scum in boiling that they waste as much as they save. The quantity of sugar required depends upon the nature of the fruit, and particulars regarding this will be given with each recipe. As there is no economy in using inferior sugar, there is also no economy in using too little sugar. The only result of endeavouring to save in this way is PRESEBVIKG-PAlf. that the jam has to be boiled so much the longer, and thus the quantity is reduced; to say nothing of the expenditure of fuel. Raspberries require the least amount of sugar, and plums the largest. In making commoii jams, the fruit should be well boiled before the sugar is added, and care should be taken that it is not so much thickened that the sugar will not easily dissolve. The fruits which are most suitable to be preserved whole in sj-rup are apricots, apples, cherries, greengages, peaches, nectarines, plums, and pears. The recipe for each will be found in this work in its proper place. Sugar should never be reduced to powder before it is added to the fruit, or it will give the jam a turbid appearance. The scum should be carefully removed as it rises. In order to prevent waste it may be strained through fine muslin, and the clear part which runs through may be returned to the preserving-pan. Wooden spoons should be used for stirring jam. Iron, tin, or pewter ones will spoil the colour. An enamelled saucepan is the best for making jam. If a brass preserving-pan is used, it should be scrupulously clean, bright, and dt-i . The pan should be raised a few inches above the fire. If placed flat on it the fruit will be in danger of burning. The flavour and colour will be host preserved if the fruit is boiled rapidly. It should be watched constantly and stirred frequently during the process of boiling. Home-made jam, when properly prepared and well preserved, is incomparably superior to that which is offered for sale, and ought not to cost more than half the price. Jams. Recipes for preparing the following jams will be found under their respective headings: Apple Gooseberry, White Apricot or Yellow Apricot, Green Greengage Barberry Lemon and Rhubarb Blackkerry Magnum Bonum Black Currant Mixed Fruits Carrot (Imitation Mogul Plums Apricot) Peach Cherry Plum Currant, Black Raspberry Currant, Red and Raspberry and CurWhite RANT Damson Rhubarb Gooseberry, Green Rhubarb and Orange Gooseberry, Red Strawberry. Jam, Imitation. Cut off the yellow rind from a large fresh lemon, being careful not to take any of the white. Mince it as finely as possible, and put it with half a pint of the best treacle, the strained juice of the lemon, and a well-beaten egg into a saucepan, and boil gently for a few minutes, stirring all the time. \Vhen cold it is ready for use, and may be employed instead of jam for roly-poly puddings. If put into a jar, and the air excluded, it will remain good for some time. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a pudding large enough for six or eight persons. Jam, Mixed, for Nursery Use. Take equal weights of any fruit that is in season, such as gooseberries, red or black currants, raspberries, or cherries. Boil them gently for half an hour, then weigh the fruit, and put half a pound of sugar to everj' pound of pulp and boU twenty minutes longer. When cherries JAM ( .a: ) JAM are used they must be boiled twenty minutes ;ilone before the other fruit is added to them. This jam will not keep more than two or three months. Prokible cost, 6d. per pound. Jam, Mixed, Superior. Take equal measures of fruit, black cherries picked and stoned, black currants, and raspberries. Boil the cherries twenty minutes first, then add the currants and raspberries, with a pint and a half of red currant juice to every three pounds of fruit. Boil until the fruit i; broken, then add one pound of sugar to every pint of fruit, and boil gently for half an hum. Skim carefully, pour the jam into jars, and cover in the usual way. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Jam Omelet. Beat four eggs, and mix with them a teii-spoonf ul of moist sugar, a pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of milk. Make an omelet-pan quite hot the best way to do this is to put it on the tire with a little fat, and when this bums pour it off, and wipe the pan dry put two ounces of fat or oil into the pan, and when it begins to bubble poirr in the eggs, &c., and keep stirring them with a spoon until lightly set. Let them remain a minute, until the omelet is browned on one side, then turn it on a hot dish, spread a little jam in the middle, fold the edges over on each side, sift a little sugar over, and serve as quickly as possible. Time, five or six minutes to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three persons. Jam. Patties. Rub two ounces of fresh butter into a quarter of a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a pinch of salt and a saltspoonful of sugar, and moisten with the yolk of an egg, beaton up with two table-spoonfuls of X)ld water. RoU the paste out twice, and each time spread an ounce of butter on it. Dredge a little flour over it, fold it up in a roll, and let it atand in a cool place for an hour or two. Before making it up roll it out once or twice, and the last time leave it the thickness of half an inch, then stamp it out in fourteen small rounds, and with a smaller cutter stamp again quite through six of them, leaving a ring three-quarters of an inch wide. Lay a pastry ring on each perfect round, first moistening it a little with water to make it adhere securely. Bake the patties in a quick oven, fill them while warm with jam, and put on the top a small ornament, which has been lightly baked with the patties. Time, ten minutes to bake the patties. Probable cost, l}d. each. Sufficient for six patties. Jam PufiTs, or Turnovers.- Make some good puff paste or short crust {see Jam Patties) ; roll it out to the eighth of an inch in thickness, then stamp it out in rounds with a saucer or plate, or into squares. Spread a little jam on half the pastry, wet the edges, and turn the other half quite over. Press the edges neatly together, and bake in a quick oven. Time, five or six minutes to bake. Probable cost, l ieach. Jam Boly-poly Pudding, Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely; mix with it six ounces of flour, add a pinch of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Make it up into a firm paste with cold water ; then roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an _ iacl wet the edges all round, and spread halJ a.-pound of jam over the pastry. lioU it to, tlj,e hape of a bolster, fasten the edges securely, atd put the pudding into a floui-ed cloth: Tie it at both ends, put it into boiling water without bending it, and lot it boil quickly for an hour and a half. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. Imitation jam {see Jam, Imitation) makes a good pudding for the nursery. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for foui persons. Jam Sandwiches. Mix the yolks of two eggs very smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour and a table-spoonful of ground rice, add a very small pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of thick cream, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, add them last of all, and beat the mixture for four or five minutes. Butter two large plates, put in the mixture, and bake in a quick oven until it is set and lightly browned. Spread a little jam over one of the cakes and lay the other upon it, the browned part uppermost. Sift a little sugar over it before serving. Jam sandwiches may be eaten either hot or cold. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Jam Tarts. Make some -p my, as directed for Jam Patties. Butter a dozen pattypans, and line them with the pastry rolled out to a quarter of an inch in thickness. Put them into a quick oven, and when nearly baked take them out and put a little jam in the centre of each, then return them to the oven and finish baking. An ornament already baked should be placed upon each, or a little whipped cream. Time, a few minutes to bake. Probable cost, l d. each. Sufficient for eight tarts. Jam Tart, Open. Make some pastrj', as directed for Jam Patties, or as follows : Rub six ounces of butter into the same quantity of dried and sifted flour. Add a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, a teaspoonful of povmded sugar, and make it up into a smooth paste with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cold water; about a quarter of a pint will be required. Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Butter an ornamented tart-pan and line it with the pastry. Trim the edges neatly, and prick a few holes in the bottom with a fork. Bake in a moderate oven until lightly browned, then take the tart out, let it cool a little, spread the jam on it, and ornament the top with a few leaves or stars of pastry which have been baked separately. Time, about haK an hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Jam, To Keep. Pour the jam into perfectly sound dry bottles or jars. Glass bottles are the best, as through them any mould or fermentation can be easily lerceived without removing the cover. If earthenware jars are used the jam should be looked at once or twice during the first two months, and if there is any appearance of the jam not keeping, it should be gently reboiled. Place a round of thin paper dipped in brandy on the top of the jam. Cut JAM ( 338 ) J IU some rounds of paper sufficiently large to overlap the top of the jar about an inch. Brush the inside with beaten white of egg or with a little gum, and tie it on whilst wet. It will become hard and tight like the skin of a drum, and will thoroughly exclude the air. A neat label should be jjlaced on the front of aU jars containing jam, and on this should be written the day of the month and year on which the jam was made, and the weight of sugar and ifruit used in its preparation. Jam should be kept in a cool, dry place. Damp may turn it mouldy, heat make it ferment. Jambon, Cutlets au {see Cutlets au Jambon) . Jardiniere. This is a garnish made of cooked vegetables, which gives its name to the dish with which it is served. Thus, fiUot of beef a la jardiniere, mutton a la jardiniere, goose it la jardiniere, simply mean fiUct of beef, mutton, and goose served with a garnish a la jardiniere. To prepare this garnish, peel two or three sound carrots and turnips, and turn or shape them in fanciful forms of equal size. This is most easily done with a vegetable scoop made for the purpose. Two ounces of French beans cut into diamonds should be added, a cauliflower di%dded into sprigs, two ounces of green peas, two ounces of asparagus tops cut up into small pieces, and a few brussels sprouts. Cook aU the vegetables first in a little broth nicely flavoiired with pepper, salt, and sugar. Take them out when they are rather undta-done, so that they shall not break when i dished ; drain them thoroughly, put them into I a saucepan with a table-spoonful of lightly- i coloured glaze, and shake them for two or three minutes over the fire. Take them up, and arrange them round the dish as effectively as possible. This is generally best done by raising the meat in the centre and putting the vegetables round it. : Jardiniere Soup. Scrape three sound j carrots and the same number of turnips, and turn them into any fanciful shapes of an equal i size with a French vegetable scoop. Put them ; into a stewpan with a dozen button onions, two i or three leaves of lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, i and a head of celery cut as nearly as possible i the same size as the turnips and carrots, j Pour over them two quarts of nicely-seasoned clear stock, and simmer gently until the vegetables are tender. A small lump of sugar is an 1 improvement. Taste the soup before sending I it to table, in order to ascertain if further seasoning is required, and servo as hot as j possible. Time, about an hour and a half. I Probable cost, 4d. per quart, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for six or eight persons. , Jargonelle Pears, To Bake. Pare, core, and divide four Lirgc pears into quarters. Weigh them, and put them into a baking-dish I with their weight in sugar, as much cold water as will barely cover them, three or four drops of cochineal, four cloves, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Put them into a moderate oven and bake them until they are tender, but be careful not to lot them break. Lift the pears carefully into a glass dish, boil the sauce two or three minutes, strain it, and poiu" it over the fruit. A glass of " sweet wine may be added or not. If a little isinglass or gelatine is dissolved in the hot syrup, it will when cold form a jeUy round the pears, and make a pretty dish. Time, one hour or more to bake. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the isinglass. Sufficient for three or foui- persons. Jargonelle Pears, To Preserve. Gather the pears before they are fuUy i-ipe. Pare them as thinly as possible, cut out the black tops, and pick out the seeds. Weigh the fruit and simmer it very gently until it is quite tender, but unbroken ; then drain it, and make a syrup of one pound of sugar and half a pint of 'water to every pound of pears. Let tliis boil for five or six minutes, remove the scum as it rises, put in the pears and simmer them in the syrup five minutes longer. Lift out carefully, and put them to stand in a dish with the syrup, which must entirely cover them, for two days. Then put them again into the pan, and simmer them until they are clear, but they must not break ; if a little lemonrind is simmered with the syrup it will impiove the flavour, and two or three drops of cochineal will improve the colour. Put the fruit into jars, pour the syrup over it, and cover securely. When wanted the pears may either be served in the syrup or dried in a cool oven. Time, three days. Probable cost, pears, 3d. per pound. Jargonelle Pears, To Preserve (another way). Prepare the pears as in the last recipe. When they are pared, cored, and weighed, put them into a saucepan, with vine leaves vmder and over them: cover them with cold water, and simmer them gently for half an hour. Drain them, and make a syrup, allowing one pound of sugar to every poimd of fruit, and half a pint of water to every pound and a half of sugar, with one ounce of ginger, and the rind and juice of half a lemon. Boil this syrup for ten minutes, put in the pears, and let them simmer a quarter of an hour. Lift them out carefully, boil the syrup ten minutes longer, and when cold pour it over the pears. Cover them closely, and in three days boil the sjoT ip ten minutes again, and repeat this twice, three days being allowed to elapse between each boiling. Tho peara must be entirely covered with the syrup while they are soaking. Put a clove in each pear. Put the fruit in a deep jar, pour the syrup over it, cover closely to exclude the air, and keep ia a cool, cby place. Probable cost of pears, 3d. per pound. Jaune Mange, or Dutch Mummery. Take the tliin rind of a large lemon, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of water, and four ounces of sugar. Simmer gently for a few minutes, then let the syrup stand by the side of the fire for half an hour, that the flavour of the lemon may be thoroughly drawn out. At the end of that time put in one ounce of best isinglass, and stir until it is dissolved; add the strained juice of the lemon, and half a pint of sherry or raisin wine. Strain the mixture into a jug, add the weU-beaten yolks of six eggs, and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling JEJ ( 339 ) JEL water ; keep stimng until it thickens, but do not let it boil ; let it cool, then pour it through muslin into moulds which have been soaked in cold water, and let it remain until stifi. Gelatine may be used instead of isinglass if preferred. Time, about ten minutes to thicken the mixture. Probable cost, Is. 8d., exclusive of the wine, if made with isinglass ; Is., if made with gelatine. Sufficient for a quaii, mould. Jejune Pudding. Take the weight of four eggs with their shells on in sugar, butter, and flour ; beat the butter to a cream, and mix with it the powdered sugar, the thin rind of a fresh lemon finely minced, the eggs thoroughly whisked, and, last of all, the flour; beat all thoroughly until quite light. This pudding may be either baked or boiled. If baked, half fill some smaU moulds, well buttered, with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn out before serving. If boiled, pour the mixture into a well-buttered plain round mould, put a buttered paper over the top, tie it in a cloth, plimge it into boihng water, and boil for an hour and a half. A syrup flavoured with lemon, and slightly coloured with cochineal, may be poured into the dish with the pudding. Time, half an hour ,to bake the pudding. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Jelly, General Observations on. Jelly is most frequently made from caK's-foot stock, isinglass, or gelatine. When made from the first of these, it is very wholesome and nutritious, and is especially suited for convalescents. When isinglass and gelatine are used, many agreeable and pleasing dishes may be made for the table, but these should never be offered to an invalid. As the jeUy which is sold by conf ectionersi ia almost always made of isinglass, caK's-foot jelly should, if possible, be made at home. Careful attention given to the directions given imder the heading, Calf's-foot Jelly, will insure a perfectly transparent jelly, and for this result once straining will generally be found sufficient, though, of course, if necessary, it must be strained more than once. Jellies. Recipes for preparing the following jellies will be found under their respective headings : Ale ok Porter Calf's-foot Almond Calf's-foot, Apple Apple Calf's-foot, Foitr. Apple Calf's-foot fruit Apple Juice for Calf's-foot, Lemon Jelly Calf's-foot, M.irasApples, Red, with chino Jelly Calf's-foot, Or.ange Apricot Calf' s-foot,Stock for Apricots in "White Coffee Jelly Cow-heel Apricots Preserved Crab Apples, SisERLiN IN Jelly Cr.4nberry Arrowroot Cranberry and AsHBERRY Ground Rice Aspic Cura(,'OA Barberry Currant, Black Black Curr.4.nt Currant, Red Bread Currant, White Cabbage Damson Fish, Jelly for Four-fruit Fowl Jelly, in Cakes French Fruit, Isinglass Gelatine Gloucester Gooseberry Gooseberry, Green Grape Grape, Isinglass Gravy, Jelly for GuAVA, Imit.ition Hartshorn Iceland Moss Irish Moss Isinglass and Gelatine Isinglass, Constantia Isinglass, Cranberry Isinglass, Currant AND Raspberry Isinglass, Invalids' Isinglass, Lemon Isinglass, Orange Isinglass, Straw It. lian Ivory Ivory Dust Jelly, Four-fruit Lemon Lemons filled with Jelly' Lemon Isinglass and Gelatine Lemon Isinglass, Superlative Madeira Wine Maraschino Marble Marmal. di; Medlar Noyau Noyau with Almond Orange Apple Orange Calf's-foot Orange Ox-heel, Stock for Ox-feet Panachee Pig's-feet and Ears Pine Apple Pomona Pork Potato Punch Quince Raspberry Raspberry and Cuerant Rice Rum Russian Sheeps' Trotters Strawberry Tapioca Venus's. Jelly -bags. Jelly -bags are much the strongest and best when made at home. The strong flannel used for ironing-blankets is the best for this purpose, and it should be made of JELLT-BAG. a half-square, and sewn at the side with a. double seam, so as to be wide at the top, and pointed at the bottom. The top may be hemmed, and three tape loops sewn to it, by wliich the bag may be suspended when in use. A jeUy-bag should always bo vi-ung dry out of hot water before the liquid is poured into it. Jelly, Bottled, To Mould. When jelly is wanted quickly, it may be bought in bottles, ready made, and beautifully transparent. In order to mould it, uncork the bottle, and put it into boiling water. Let it remain until the jelly can be poured out of the bottles. Flavour it according to taste, but do not add very much liquid, or it may interfere with. JEL ( 340 ) JEL the firmness of the jelly. Pour it into danii moulds, and put it in a cool place, to become stiff again. Time, a few minutes to dissolve ; some hours to become firm again. Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 6d. per pint. Jelly Bread (Invalid Cookery). Remove the crust from a penny roU. Cut the crumb into thin slices, and toast these to a bright bro vn on each side. Put them into a saucepan with a quart of cold spring water, and smimer gently until the liquid will jelly, which point may be known by putting a little on one side to cool. Strain through muslin, sweeten, and flavour with wine and lemon- juice, if permitted. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Jelly, Cream. Put three pints of water into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of hartshorn-shavings, and boil gently until the liquid will jelly. This may be easily ascertained by taking a little in a spoon, and letting it get cold. When sufficiently boiled, strain it, and add half a pint of cream, two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and two ounces of sifted sugar. Boil all together gently for five minutes, stirring aU the time, to prevent the mixture curdling. When cool, pour it into a damp mould, turn it out as soon as it is stiff, and pour over it haK a pint of cream, flavom-ed according to taste. Time, about three hours to simmer the shavings. Sufficient for a quart mould. Jelly Custard. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, sweeten and flavour according to taste, and when it is lukewarm, pour it over the yolks of six -well-beaten fresh eggs. Stir it over the fire until it is thick, but it must not boU ; then add an ounce of dissolved isinglass. Soiik half a dozen small moulds of different sizes in water, pour in the custard, and when firmly set turn out the moulds, arrange them prettily on a dish, and pour over them a syrup flavoured with lemon-peel, and coloured with two or three drops of cochineal. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1b. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Jelly - Custard Tartlets. Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of strawberr}-- or red currant jelly over the fire. Let it get quite cool, then mix with it gradually three weK-beaten eggs. Three parts fill some tartlet tins, lined with puft' j)aste, and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for haK a dozen tartlets. Jelly, Fancy. A variety of pretty- looking dishes may be made with jelly, either by using different colours, and allowing one colour to beaJme perfectly firm before another colour is added, or by using the fancy moulds which are now so generally made. In these dishes very much depends upon the taste of the cook. A piece of cardboard may be cut out to fit the middle of the mould very closely, and differcnt-coloiu-ed jellies poured in at each side. Or a layer of one colour may be poured in, and allowed to become quite cobl before another is added, and thus the movild be filled. Thia plan refjuires some time. When the mould is made with hollow balls at the top, as is frequently the case, a pretty effect may be produced by filling those balls only with a bright-coloured jelly, and when they are firmly set, adding the rest uncoloured. Another way is to half fill the mould with blancmange, when this \s, set to pour over it a thin layer of jeUy, and afterwards fill up with blancmange again. When there are any remains of different-coloured jellies they should be put into one mould, and a httle clear jelly, quite cold, and nearly set, poureKi over them. The fancy of the cook will doubtless suggest endless varieties for these dishes. Jelly Fish. IMake a quart of jeUy according to the directions given for JeUy Meat for Pies. If they are at hand, the head and trimmings of turbot, whiting, or skate may be stewed with the calf's foot, but they are not indispensable. Pass the jelly through the tamis until quite clear, and clarify it, if necessary, with the beaten whites and crushed sheEs of four eggs. Pour a layer of the jelly, about JELLY FISH. an inch in depth, into a wet mould, and when it is firmly set arrange some prawns or crayfish round the edges, and add the remainder of the jelly. The fish must be put into the jeUy backs downward, as it must be remembered that their position will be reversed when turned out. Time, about three hours to firm each layer. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Jelly for Pies, To Clarify. Jelly for pies should be made bright and clear in the same way as calf's-foot jelly that is, it should be allowed to get cold, and then every particle of fat should be removed, the sediment which settles at the bottom of the pan being left undistm'bed, and the jelly should be mixed thoroughly, when cold, with the whites and shells of eggs, two eggs being used for every pint of jelly. The contents of the saucepan must not be stirred after they once begin to heat, and they must boil a few minutes, and afterwards stand by the side of the fire for a few minutes, to settle, before the scum is removed and the jelly strained. If the meat be slowly boiled, jelly will seldom require clarifying with white of Q i but it should always be made the day before it is wanted, so that the fat and sediment may be effectually removed. Time, ten minutes to boil the jell)'-, and a quai-ter of an hour to let it settle. Jelly for the Sick (Invalid Cook fry). Care should be taken in making jelly for JBL (341 ) JEL invalids to ascertain whether or not -wine and lemon- juice ai'e allowed before putting them into the stock. Generally speaking, any very decided flavour is objected to, and sugar should be sparingly used, as sweetness cloys a delicute appetite. As, however, the acid and sugar materially assist the clearing of the jelly, it would be well, when these cannot be admitted, to add the white and shell of another egg. In this case, therefore, three instead of two oggs should be put with every pint of stock. Change of diet is very desirable for invalids. A pleasing variety may be made by making the jelly savoury instead of sweet. This can 1)1) done by stewing with the feet an onion, a dozen peppercorns, and a blade of mace. If a pound of the shin of beef be added to this, a very nourishing jelly will be produced. Time, five or six hours to stew. Probable cost of feet, 9d. to Is. each. Two feet will make a quart of Jelly, Four-finiit {see Four-fruit Jelly). Jelly in Orange-skins. Take foiularge sound oranges. Gut out a round about an inch in diameter from the stalk end, and scoop out the contents of the orange very thoroughly with a tea-spoon. Throw the skins into cold water for two or three hours, to harden them, and meanwliile make the juice as clear as possible by straining it through a jelly-bag, and with it some white paper, reduced to a pulp by being washed in several waters. Add an ounce of isinglass dissolved in as Httle water as possible, and a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and strain the jelly again until it is quite clear. Take out the skins, let them drain, and if inadvertently any holes have been made, fill them up with butter. Put the jelly into the orange-skins, and when they are quite cold, cut them into quarters with a sharp knife, pile them on a napkin, and garnish them prettily with bright green leaves. The appearance of the fruit is much improved if the oranges are tilled with different-coloured jellies, but when this is done, one colotir must become firm before the next is added. Probable cost, 2s. SuflScient for six or eight persons. Jelly, Isinglass Clarified for. Put an ounce of isinglass into an enamelled saucepan with half a pint of water. Bring it slowly to a boil, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently for half an hour, being careful to stir the isinglass constantly, to prevent it sticking. Remove the scum as it rises, and put it on a sieve which has been moistened with boiling water. A little clear jelly may drain from it, and this may be added to the isinglass. A tea-spoonful of cold water should be put in two or three times to assist the scum in rising. When the jelly is required exceedingly transparent, a tea-spoonful of beaten white of egg may be added to the water in which the isinglass \s dissolved, but when this is done, a little more isinglass should be allowed, as the white of egs; has a tendency to weaken it. An ounce of isinglass is usually considered necessary for a pint of juice. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per ounce. Sufficient, half a pint of water for an ounce of isinglass. Jelly, Liquor. This jelly may bo made with maraschino, noyau, cura(,'oa, or any other hquor. Dissolve two ounces of best Kussi;m isinglass in a pint of water, being careful to remove the scum as it rises, add a pound of loaf sugar, which has been boiled to a syrup with half a pint of water, and also carefuUy skimmed, the strained juice of a lemon, and a quarter of a pint of liquor. Mix thoroughly, pour the jeUy through a tamis into a damp j mould, and set it in ice until wanted for use. I If the jelly be very stiff the mould should be I dipped for a moment in boiling water before j turning it upon the dish. Time, half an hour I to clarify the isinglass, ten minutes to clarify i the sugar. Probable cost, exclusive of the ; liquor, 2s. 8d. Sufllcicut for eight or ten ; jjcrsons. ; Jelly, Meat, for Pies, Economical. ; Cover haK an ounce of gelatine with a little ' cold water. Let it swell. Mix half a tea\ spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat with a ; pint of boiling water, and put it into a saucepan I with a shallot, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a I dozen peppercorns, a clove, the very thin rind ' of a quarter of a lemon, and a dessert- spoonful ; of tarragon vinegar. Simmer gently until the ; flavouring is extracted, add the gelatine, and when this is dissolved, .strain the liquid thi-ough i a bag, add a wine-glassful of white wine, if ' approved, and put the jelly aside to set. Cut ? it into dice or use it as required. Time, forty ; minutes to simmer the gravy. Probable cost, j 5d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint I and a half of jelly. I Jelly, Meat, for Cold Pies. Scald and I prepare a calf's foot, and put it into a stewpan I with half a pound of the knuckle of a leg or I shoulder of veal, two shallots, a small bunch j of savoxuy herbs, an onion with two cloves stuck in it, a lump of sugar, and the thin lind I of half a lemon, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and three quarts of cold spring water. Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and simmer gently for five or six homs. Run the jelly through a bag, and let it stand aside until cold. Take away the sediment and the fat, and pom- the gravj- into the pie through an opening in the cover. The flavour of this jelly should be varied with the dish for which it is required. If for a chickcn-and-ham pie, the neck, bones, and trimmings of the chicken should be stewed with the giavy, together with half a pound of lean, nndi-essed ham, or the rind of bacon soaked, scraped, and cut small. If for hare or game pie, the bones and trimmings of the hare or game should be used. Sufficient for three pints of gravy. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Jelly, Meat, for Pies, Superior. Take a pound and a half of the knuckle or neck of veal and half a pound of the shin of beef. Cut them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of good beef stock ; simmer gently for half an hour, then add two pints more stock, boiling a shaUot, three ounces of undressed lean ham, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of bruised celeryseed tied in muslin, a clove, a small bunch of JEL ( 342) JEL savoury herbs, and half a dozen peppercorns. Simmer slowly for thi-oe or foia- hours, or until the liquid will jelly. If quickly boiled, the jelly will not be so clear. Strain the gravy, add salt if required, and put it aside until quite cold, so that the fat may be entu-ely removed. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of jelly. Jelly, Meat used in Stock for. A good breakfast or luncheon dish may be made of the meat from the feet which have been stewed for stock. Take away the bones, and cut the moat into neat pieces, season them with salt and cayenne, and a little pounded mace. Press them into a mould, pour over them a Uttle of the jeUy, and when cold turn out in a shape. Garnish according to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. Sufficient for two or three persons, if made from the remains of two feet. Jelly Mould {sec Illustration accompanying the notice of Apple Calf's Foot Jelly). Jelly, Open, with Whipped Cream. Prepare a pint and a half of perfectly transparent jelly, either calf's foot, isinglass, or gelatine ; colour it, if liked, with two or three drops of cochineal, and put it into a damp mould made with an opening in the centre on purpose for dishes of this description. When the jelly is firmly set, have ready three-quarters of a pint of whipped cream nicely flavoured and sweetened. Pile this in the opening as high as possible, and it is ready to serve. Time, some hours to make the jelly firm. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a piat and a half mould. Jelly Pudding. Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon in two table-spoonfuls of spring water for half an hour. WTiile it is soaking, beat five oimces of fresh butter to a cream, add four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, and, very gradually, the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. Line a small pie-dish with good puil paste. When it is time for the pudding to be baked, mix with it the strained lemon- water, and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a solid froth, and "bake in a quick oven. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. Jelly, Rice. Mix four ounces of riceflour smoothly and gradually with a quart of cold milk ; put them into a saucepan -with a quarter of an ounce of clarified isinglass, the thin rind of half a lemon, four bitter almonds, hlanched and pounded, and four ounces of sugar. BoU and stir briskly vmtU quite thick. Take out the lemon-rind, and pour the mixture into a damp mould. When it is firmly set, turn it on a glass dish, pour melted currant jelly, or any fruit sjxup, round it, and send a jug of cream to table -svith it. Time, five minutes after boiling. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the sauces. Sufficient for five or six persons. Jelly, stock for. Stock for jellies may be made either of calf s foot, ox-heel, or the shank-bones of mutton. In aU these the process long and gentle stewing is the same. The qiiantity of water required is a.9 follows: Calfs-foot Stock Procure two caLE's feet from the butcher. Lay them in a saucepan of scalding hot water for three or four minutes, then scrape ofl: the hair with the back of a knife. Divide them into halves, knock ofE the hoofs, remove the fat from between the toes, wash in two or three waters, and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of cold water. Bring them slowly to a boU, remove the scum as it rises, assist it to rise by throwing in a few drops of cold water when the liquid is on the point of boiling, and simmer gently for five or six hours, until the liquid is reduced fully one-half. Strain it, and put it aside until cold. It is well at this point to measure out the quantity which will be required next day to make jelly, allowing a little more for fat and sediment. If this is not done, time will be lost in liquefying the jelly, in order to measure it, and afterwards letting it get cold again. Oz-hccl Stock Take two heels, scalded, but unboiled, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash them tlioroughly in lukewarm water. Put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold water. I Bring this to a boil, remove the scum carefully, I and simmer gently for seven or eight hours, or I until the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain j and pour ofi the stock, and set it aside to cool. Shank-bones of Mutton Wash and brush a dozen shank-bones of mutton. Pour over them three pints of water, and simmer gently for I seven or eight hours until the liquid is reduced to a pint. The stock for jellies should always I be made the day before it is wanted, so that the ] fat and sediment may be effectually removed. ; Probable cost, calf's feet. Is. each ; ox-heel, 6d. each ; shank-bones, 3d. or 4d. per dozen, when they are to be bought. The butchers, however, very frequently weigh them with the leg. Jelly, Syrup Clarified for. Vhen jelly is desired very clear and transparent it is safer to clarify the sugar as well as the isinj glass. Mix a pint of water with a tea-spoonful j of the beaten white of egg. Put it into a sauceI pan yfiih. a pound of loaf sugar, and let it I boil gently until the scum ceases to rise. Kei move the scum carefully, and strain the syrup j through a napkin into a basin. Time, about a I quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 5d. ! Jelly, Weak Wine (Invalid Cookery). i Put an ounce of isinglass into an enamelled saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of water and three ounces of sugar. Boil gently until it is dissolved, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and throw in a tea-spoonful of cold water two or three times, to assist it in doing so. Strain the jelly through a bag which has been wrung out of hot water, add the juice of a couple of oranges, and a quarter of a pint of good sherry, and pour the liquid into glasses. Let it be kept in a cool place until firmly set. Though this jelly will be agreeable and refreshing, it will not be as nom-ishing as if made from calf's feet. Time, half an hour to dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five glasses. Jelly, Wllipped. Take the remains of any cold jelly. Dissolve it over a gentle fixe, put it into a basin, and place this upon some rough ice mixed with salt, whisk it briskly until JEW ( 343 ) JOH it is well frothed. Pour it into a mould, and set this at once in ice. When firm, tuin it out on a dish. Time, a few minutes to dissolve. Jenny's Pudding. Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, and ornament it -with ilriod cherries and slices of lemon-peel stuck in layers all roimd the inside. Cut some thin slices of sponge biscuit, and with these line the mould. Fill up the centre with ratafia biscuits and the crumb of bread, finely grated, lajslices of sponge biscuit over tlie top, and pour over the whole by degrees as much rich custard as it will absorb. Let the pudding stand for an houi- or two. Tlien cover it with buttered writing paper, tie it in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly for an houi-. The mould must be quite full. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for three persons. Jersey Milk Curry. Take the remains of any kind of white boiled fish. Remove the bones and skin, and cut the flesh into neat slices, dredge a little flotir over them, and fiy them in a little butter, with two shallots, finely minced, supposing there are two pounds of fish. Dredge a table-spoonful of currj -powder over them, and put them on a hot plate in the oven until required. Melt two ounces of butter over the fire, and mix smoothly with it two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add a small tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and as much milk as will make it of the consistency of thick cream. Let it boil gently for a few minutes, then j ut in the slices of fish, and let them remain for half an hour. Just before serving, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them. Probable cost, exclusive of the codfish, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Jersey Pudding. Mix an ounce of flour thoroughly with two ounces of gToimd rice, two ounces of moist sugar, and a very small pinch of salt. Work these ingredients smoothly into four ounces of butter. Add two ounces* of stoned raisins, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon -rind, three well -beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of milk. Pour the mixture into a weU-buttered mould, cover it with an oiled paper, tie it in a cloth, anc? keep it boiUng until it is done enough. Pour round the pudding a sauce made of syruj), j flavoured with lemon-rind and juice, and coloured with two or three di-ops of cochineal. } Time, one hour to boil. Probable cost, Gd. I Sufficient for two persons. Jerusalem Artichokes [sec Artichokes, Jerusalem) . Jewish Almond Pudding {sec Almond Pudding, Jewish). Jewish Method of Frying Fish [scs Fish, Fried, Jewisli Fashion). Jewish Sausage, or Chorissa. This is used as an accompaniment to boiled fish and other dishes, and is often met with at Jewish tables. It is purchased of the Jew butchers, and is prepared in the following way : Place the chorissa in warm water, let it heat gently, and then boil for twenty minutes. Serve, surrounded with rice made ready as for curry. Jewish sausages are very good broiled in slices I after the previous boihng. They should bo quite cold before being put again to the fire. One authority is of opinion that they will be found more digestible, as well as pleasanter to the taste, if they are haK-boiled at least before being broiled, toasted, or warmed in the oven for the table. Jewish Smoked Beef. Like the sausages of the preceding paragraph Jewish smoked beef is to be bought of the Jew butchers. To cook it, drop the meat into boiling water, let it boil for ten minutes, take off any scum that rises to the surface, add cold water enough to reduce the hquid to mere scalding heat, then bring it gently to the boil, and simmer until the lean of the meat feels quite tender when probed with a sharp skewer. Lift the meat on a drainer, and serve hot or cold, and garnish to taste with vegetables or otherwdse. John Dory. The John Dory or Janne Dore, so named from the yellow tints on its surface, is a comparatively rare, and consequently expensive, fish, which is seasonable from Michaelmas to Christmas. The flesh is white and firm, something like the claw of a lobster, and, in fish weighing more than seven or eight poimds, is apt to be rather coarse and strong. It is best, both in flavour and quality, when weighing from four to six pounds. Though the oiliness of the skin unfits it for broiling, it is very good when boiled. When very small the John Dory is best baked. It is considered by some inferior only to the turbot. Probable cost, 3s. to 5s. .,.f John Dory, Baked. Clean, dry, and flour a small fish, season it with pepper and salt, and sprinkle a little finely-minced parslej over it. Brush it well with clarified butter, and place it in a weU-buttered baking- dish. Pour a glass of light wine over it, and bake in a moderate oven. For sauce, beat the yolks of two eggs, put them into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, the strained juice of half a fi'esh lemon, two table-spoonfuls of cold water, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a grain of cayenne, and a small pinch of powdered mace. Stir Avell imtil the sauce nearly boils. If the boiling point is reached the sauce will curdle. Send it to table poured over the fish, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two or three persons. John Dory, Boiled. Empty and cleanse the fish thoroughly, and lub a little salt over the outside. Cut off the fins, and put it into a fish-kettle, with cold water enough to cover it, and an ounce of salt to each quart of water. Heat it very gradually, and be careful that it boils slowly. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with curled parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, anchovy, lobster, or Dutch sauce should be sent to table with the fish. Time to boil, according to the size ; a fish weighing five pounds will require about a quarter of an hour's gentle boiling. Probable cost, 3s. to os. Sufficient for five or six persons. John Dory, Cold, To Warm up. This fish when wanned up i.s apt to taste a JOH ( 344 ) JUG little strong, therefore the best way of serving it a second time is as a salad, or in a mayonnaise. If this is not liked, remove the flesh from the bones, and divide it into rather large pieces. Put these into a saucepan, season with salt and cayenne, and pour over them any remains of the sauce with which it was served when cold, and heat it gradually for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Lift it out gently, so as not to break the fish, and serve on a hot dish. If there is no cold sauce, a little melted butter, flavoured with two or three drops of essence of anchovies, may be used instead. Sufficient, if made with a pound of fish, for two persons. John Dory (en IMatelote). Chop small a dozen oysters the tinned oysters may be used for this purpose and mix them thoroughly with thi-ee boned anchovies, also finely minced, a table-spoonful of chopped psxrsley, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, four table-spoonfuls of finelygrated bread-crumbs, and three oimces of butter or chopped suet. Mix aU thoroughly, add pepper and salt to taste, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and eight table-spoonfuls of new milk. Put all into a stewpan, stir briskly over ?a gentle fire until the mixture thickens, then fill the Dory with the forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Put the fish into a saucepan, barely cover it with cold water, and put with it a turnip, a carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, a large sprig of parsley, a quarter of a pint of vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, and a tablespoonful of salt. Boil gently until the fish is suificiently cooked. Serve on a hot dish, and send- the following sauce to table in a tureen with it : Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, fry in this three small onions, sliced very thin, add a table-spoonful of minced parsley, and another of minced chives, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of claret, and a glass of the liquid in which the fish was boiled. Stew gently for a few minutes until the onions are done, strain through a cloth, and then add half a pint of good brown sauce. Boil until the sauce coats the spoon. A few drops of essence of anchovy and the juice of half a lemon may be added, if hked. Time, a quarter of an hour after boiling for a moderate-sized fish. Probable cost of John Dory, 3s. to 5s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. John Dory, Sauce for When red mullet are plentiful, and. this they are veri much so occasionally, a good sauce for the John Dory may be made by boiling one, pounding the flesh, rubbing it through a hair sieve, and mixing it with half a pint of melted butter. Time, ten minutes to boil the mullet. John, Oxford [sec Oxford John). Johnny or Journey Cakes. Take a pint of Indian meal, mix a little salt with it, and as much boiling water as will form a batter. This will be about half a pint. Beat it well for several minutes, then spread it, to about the eighth of an inch in thickness, on a smooth piece of board. Place the board upright in front of a clear fire, and bake the cake. When well browned, cut it into squares, split these, put butter between, and send them to table as hot as possible. Time, bake until well browned about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Johnny or Journey Cakes (another way). See Indian Meal Johnny Cakes. Johnny or Journey Cakes (another way). Pour a pint of boiling milk over a tea-cupful and a half of Indian meal, and beat it well for a quarter of an hour. Unless tliis is done the cakes will not be light. Add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, a table-spoonful of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sour milk, a beaten ogg, and a tablespoonful of oiled butter. This will make a batter of the consistence of that used for pancakes. Johnny cakes are best baked in a spidei(a deep iron pan) on the stove. When this Ls not convenient, they may be spread in buttered pans, the eighth of an inch in thickness, and baked in a quick oven. When well browned, split the cakes, put butter between them, and serve as hot as possible. Time, bake till wellbrowned about twentj minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Josephine Cake. Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream, mix with it three ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, which, before being powdered, has been well rubbed upon the rind of half a fresh lemon. Add three well-beaten eggs, half a pound of biscuit flour, a quarter of a pound of picked currants, and two table-spoonfuls of sherry or madeiraBeat all well together for some minutes, put the mixtujo into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. Time, forty minutes to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, lOd. Sufficient for three or four pei'sons, or a small jnould. Jubilee Pudding. Take half a poimd of spongecake, rather stale than otherwise, and cut it into thin slices. Butter one side, and spread the other either with orange marmalade or apricot jam, then place the slices in layers in a j)lain round mould, buttered side downwards. Pour three-quarters of a pint of good custard over each layer, and repeat until the mould is full. Let the pudding soak for an hour, then bake in a quick oven, and turn out before serving. Wine or brandy sauce may be sent to table with it. Time, an hour and a quarter to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Judy's Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-criuubs, a table-spoonful of flom-, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two well-beaten eggs, and a tablespoonful of brandy or whisky. When these ingredients are thoroughly blended, pour the mixture into a well buttered mould, lay a buttered paper over it, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for half an hour. Turn the pudding out of the mould before serving, and pour brandied sauce round it. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Jugged Gravy. Gut a poimd and a half of the shin of beef and three ounces of lean ham into small pieces. Roll them lightly in JUL (345) KAL flour and put them into a deep earthen jar, with an onion stuck with three cloves, a sliced carrot, a shallot, half a tea-spoonful of pounded celeryseed, tied in muslin, half a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs, a slice of bread toasted hard and browTi, and half a blade of mace. Pour in a quart of water; tie several folds of paper over the top of the jar to prevent the steam escaping, and bake in a moderate oven for six hours. Strain the gravy. Let it get quite cold, so that the fat may be effectually removed, and before serving add a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup and a tablespoonful of port. A moderate oven is the best. Probable cost, Is. Sd. Sufficient for a pint and a half of gi'avy. Julienne Soup, Take three carrots, three turnips, the white part of a head of celery, three onions, and thi-ee leeks. Wash and diy the vegetables, and cut them into thin shreds, about an inch long- and a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a small pinch of pounded sugar, and stir them over a slow fire until slightly browned. Pour over them tliree quarts of clear stock {see Stock) , and simmer gently for an hour, or until the vegetables are tender. Carefully remove the scum and grease, and half an hour before the soup is done enough, add two lumps of sugar, with two pinches of salt, and two pinches of pepper, if required, two cabbage lettuces, twelve leaves of sorrel, and twelve leaves of chervil, cut in the s .me way as the other vegetables, after being inmiersed in boiling water for a minute. Boil half an hour longer, skim carefully, and serve. Send bread fried in dice to table, and serve as hot as possible It must be remembered that quick boiling would thicken and spoil this soup, which ought to be a clear brown. To save time there is an instrument to be bought called a rasp, which is specially adapted for cutting the roots rapidly into the proper form. Julienne is seasonable for nine months of the year onlj'. In January-, February, and March the carrots, turnips, and leeks required for it are hard and stringy. There are, however, vegetables to be bought ready cut, preserved, and dried, but these are much inferior in flavour to fresh vegetables. In summer time French beans, green peas, and asparagus tops may be put in, but they must be boiled separately and added a few minutes before ser\ing. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, about Is. 6d. Suflicient for eight or ten persons. JlHep, Mint (see Mint Julep). Jlllep, Pine Apple. Put a sliced ripe pine-apple in a glass bowl, add the juice of two oranges, a gill of raspbeny syrup, the same of maraschino and old gin, a bottle of sparkling moselle, and about a pound of ice in shaves. When mixed, serve in flat glasses. Jumbles. Rub the yellow part of a fresh lemon upon some lump sugar. When dry crush it to powder, and with half a pound of sugar mix half a pound of fine flour, two eggs thoroughly whisked, and three ounces of dissolved butter. Make them up into a paste, and add, if required, a table -spoonful of thick cream. 23 Drop the batter on buttered baking-tins from the point of a fork, and bake in a slow oven for twenty minutes or more. The jumbles are done enough when crisp and lightly browned. Probable cost, lOd. The above ingredients are suflicient for about a dozen cakes. Jumbles (another way). Stir together till of a light brown colour a pound of sugar and haK a pound of butter. Add eight eggs, beaten to a froth, essence of lemon or rose-water to taste, flour enough to make them sufficiently stiff to roll out. RoU out in powdered sugar, cut the paste into strips about half an inch wide and four inches long. Join the ends together so as to form rings, lay the jumbles on flat tins that have been buttered, and bake them in a quick oven. Jumbles (another way) . Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, add a pound and a quarter of sugar, two pounds of flour, three weU-beaten eggs, and two or tliroe drops of the essence of lemon. Dissolve a small piece of saleratus in a little boiling water, and mix this with haK a pint of milk. Beat it up with the flour, &c., and when well mixed drop it in small cakes from the end of a fork, and bake in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. The above ingredients are sufficient for about four dozen jumbles. Jumbles, Almond (see Almond Jumbles) Jumbles, Apricot (?ee Apricot Jumbles). Junket, Devonshire (see Devonshire Junket) . K Kale Brose. Take an ox-hecl. Cleanse it thoroughly, and poiu- over it five pints of water. Bring it to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, and let it simmer gently for four hours, lileanwhile take two large handfuls of greens ; cleanse, and free them from insects, then shred them very finely. Put them into the broth; and when sufficiently cooked, stir half a pint of toasted oatmeal into a little of the fat broth. It should be stii-red with the handle of a spoon, and very quickly, so as not to run into one mass, but to form knots. Add it to the rest, with salt and pepper to taste, let all boil up together, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Kale, Sea, Boiled. Let the kale Uc in cold water for half an hour, then wash and trim it, and tie in small bunches; put these into a good quantity of boiling water with some salt in it, and let the kale keep boiling until tender. Lift it out, drain the water from it, and send it to table with melted butter or white sauce. Time, about a quarter of an hour ; but it may be boiled a few minutes longer, if liked weU. done. Probable cost, lOd. per basket. Sufficient, four or five heads for each person. Kale, Sea, Stewed in Gravy. Wash and trim the kale, and tie it in small bunches. Put it in boiling salt and water, and let it boil softly for six or eight minutes ; then take it out, drain it, and put it into a saucepan, with as much good brown gravy as will cover it. Let it remain untU tender, and serve with the gravy KAL ( 346 KET in which it was stewed poiired over it. Prohable cost of kale, lOd. or more per basket. .Sufficient, one basket for four or five persons. Kalteschale, Plum (a German dish for hot weather). See Plum Kalteschale. Kebob. This is an Indian dish, and is usually made of mutton, veal, or fowl. Its peculiarity is that it is cut into pieces, seasoned rather highly, then fastened together with skewers, and thus both cooked and served. For mutton kebobs, take either the loin or the best end of the neck. Remove the skin and fat, and cut the meat into steaks. Mix half a pint of fine bread-crumbs with a small nutmeg, gi'ated, a dessert-spoonful of powdered mixed herbs, a table- spoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. Beat the yolks of three eggs. Dip the chops into these, and afterwards into the bread-crumbs, twice. Fasten them together in the position in which they were before they were cut, put a skewer through them, tie them to the spit, and roast before a clear fire. Baste them liberally with some good dripping and the contents of the pan. Have "half a pint of good brown gravy, thickened and flavoured, ready to pour over the mutton before sending it to table. Time, an hour and a half to roast. Probable cost, if made with foui ounds of the loin of mutton, 4s. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Kebobbed. Curry. Fasten small pieces of veal or fowl alternately with slices of onion and pickled pork upon skewers, as in the last recipe. Sprinkle a little turmeric over the meat, and fry it, with a thinly-sliced onion, in butter, until lightly browned. Mix a tablespoonful of curry-powder smoothly with a pint of gi-a- -y, and simmer it gently with two small onions, a clove of garlic, and an acid apple, imtil the vegetables are sufficiently tender to pass through a sieve. Put the gravy and the meat into a saucepan, season with salt and pepper, add a bay-leaf, and stew until the gravy is considerably reduced and very rich. Sen-e on a hot dish. Time, a few minutes to fry the meat ; an hour and a half to stew the gravy. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kebobbed Curry (another way). Sec Cuny, Kebobbed. Kebobbed Meat, Cutcharee Sauce to Serve with {see Cfutcharee Sauce). Kebobbed Mutton or Veal. Take two pounds of lean veal or mutton the third of an inch thick. Cut these into pieces about two inches square, and season them well with pepper, salt, and mixed spices. Slice two or three small onions or shallots very thinly, dip the moat into clarified butter, and put three or four pieces on a small skewer, with a little slice of onion or shallot between each. Fasten the skewers on a spit, and roast before a clear fire. Baste liberally, and serve the meat on a hot dish, with ric? boiled as for curry round it. If prefeorred, little pieces of pickled pork can be put . with' the veal. When this is done, the clarified butter may be dispensed with. Time, three-quarters of an hour to roast. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kedgeree. Kedgeree, or kidgeree, is an Indian dish, generally used for breakfast ; it may be made of such fish as turbot, salmdn, biill, soles, John Dory, whiting, and shrimps. Boil three-quarters of a pound of rice in the same way as for curry. When soft and dry, put it into a saucepan, first -svith two ounces of butter, and afterwards with a quarter of a pound of the flesh of the fish, freed from skin and bone, and divided into small pieces. Season with cayenne, salt, and pepper as much as may be required. Stir the kedgeree over the fii-e until quite hot, then add two well-beaten eggs, mix thoroughly, and serve at once. Time, until very hot, without boiling. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for haM a dozen persons. Kedgeree, Fish, { ce Fish Kedgeree). Kentish Cherries, Compote of [see Cherries, Kentish, Compote of). Kentish Suet Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely, add a pinch of salt, and ten ounces of fine flour ; mix thoroughly, and make up into a paste, by the addition of an egg beaten up with a little cold water. Put the whole into a floured cloth, tie it securely, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly for an hour and a half. This pudding is very good with a jar of jam emptied over it, or eaten with hot gravy and boiled meat. If nny is left, it may be toasted before the fire until brightly browned, and served with the same accompaniments as before. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Kerry Buttermilk. Hang tliree quarts of buttermilk, tied in a cheesecloth, in a cool airy situation. Put a basin under it for the whey to drip into, and let it remain for three days. Mix a glassful of brandy with the thickened whey, and half a pound, or more, if liked, of raspberry jam. Stir in a little pounded sugar, whisk thoroughly, and serve in a glass dish. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Ketchup. Good home-made ketchup is a most valuable addition to the storeroom, and a good housekeeper will always look with pride upon it as it stands, in closely-corked bottles, neatly labelled, upon her shelves, feeling as she may that she possesses close at hand the means of imparting a delicious flavour to her sauces and gravies without at the same time placing any deleterious compounds before her friends. Though excellent preparations are no doubt sold by respectable dealers, the superiority of ketchup when made at home is undisputed, and the comfortable certainty attending its use is so groat, that we would earnestly recommend every lady who has the time and opportunity to do so, to superintend personally the manufactirre of that which is used in her kitchcH. It is not well, however, to make a very large quantity, as it is rarely improved by being long kept. Ketchup should be stored in a cool KET (347) KID iiy place ; the corks should either be covered with resin, or a small piece of bladder should be tied over each one, andjijie liquid should be examined frequently, and if there are the sligi*test signs of fei-mcntation oij mould, it should be re-boiled with a few pepJ)ercoms, %ri'3 put into fresh diy bottles. It is perhaps needless to obsei-\e that great care must be taken that the mushrooms are of the edible kind. These may be known by their pleasant smell, by the skin parting easily from the edges and middle, by the upper part and the stalk being white, and by the colour of the under side, which is pink or Siilmon-coloured when the mushroom is young, and afterwai'ds turns to a black or dark brown. Ketchups. Recipes for making the following ketchups will be found under theiirespective headings : \3CCHOVY cuci-mbek, Elderbebky Fish Irish Walnut Lemon MtSHROOM MUSSEI, mcstapha Oyster PONTAC Ptjdding Seven Years Tomato Walnut. Kew Mince, or Haggis Royal. Cut one poimd of lean meat from a cold roast leg of mutton. lix it with half a pound of finelyshred suet, four table- spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, one boned anchovy, one tea?spoonf ul of minced parsley, half a. tea-spoonful of chopped lemon -rind, one small tea- spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. WTien the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, add half a pint of port or claret, and the yolks of four well-beaten eggs. Put the mixture neatly into a veal caul (or when this cannot be procui-ed, put it into a stmcepan), and bake in a quick oven. Serve as hot as possible, with half a pint of good brown gravy in the dish. Time, thi-oe-quarters of an hour to bake. Probablecost, exclusive of the wine. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Kid. A young sucking kid, well cooked, forms an excellent dish, and is generally dressed whole, Kke a hare. If grown to any size, it should be jointed before cooking. As it is a dry meat it should be either soaked in a marinade for a few hours, and afterwards liung up for a day or two, or larded before being roasted. The marinade may be made of one pint of vinegar, one pint of cold water, half a pint of port, two ounces of salt, two ounces, of moist sugar, twelve peppercoi-ns, and a bayleaf. Place the kid in this, baste it frequently, and wash it in the marinade once or twice when it is himg up after being taken out. Kid (a la Poulette). Soak a young Idd in milk and water for four hours. Drain it, bind strips of fat bacon round it, and roast before a clear fire for three-quarters of an hour. Take it down, and cut a neat piece, weighing about two pounds, from it, leaving the rest to hash, or cook at some other time. Put the piec? cut off into a 8auc?pan, with a pint of veal stock, a tea-epoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, a dozen button-mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and a piece of butter, the size of an egg, rolled in flour. Let it stew gently for an hour ; then take out the meat, place it on a hot dish, strain the sauce, let it boil up onc? more, then draw it to the side of the fire to cool for two minutes, and add gradually the well-beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with a tal+lespoonful of thick cream. The sauce must not boil after the egg is added, or it will curdle. Pour the sauce over the kid, and serve as hot as possible. G;u-nish the dish with parsley and cut lemon. Probable cost, uncoitain, kids being seldom oft'ered for sale. Sufficient for four persons. Kid, Hashed. Take about two pounds of the remains of a cold roast kid if under-dressed so much the better. Cut it into neat slices, and put it into a covered dish until wanted. Put a pint of good veal stock into a saucepan, with an ounce and a half of butter, rolled in flour, a tea-spoonful of stilt, half a tea-spiBonful of pepper, half a blade of mace, a sprig of psu'sley, and a shallot.' Simmer gently for half an hour. Sti-ain the graAy, d a wine-glassful of port, a table-spoormilV of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and a lump of sugar. Put in the slices of kid, let them get quite hot without boiling the gra\y, and serve immediately. Spinach, cauliflowers, or French beans, are excellent as accompaniments to this dish. Probable cost, exolusive of the cold kid and wine, Is. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Kid, Hoast. Soak the kid in a marinade, as directed above ; then bind strips of fat bacon round it, and cover it w-ith buttered paper. Put it down to a clear fixe, and baste liberally. About half an hour- before it is done enough, remove the paper and bacon, dredge some flour over the kid, and continue the basting as before. Dissolve one table-spoonful of red-currant jelly in half a pint of mutton gravy, add a wine-glassful of claret, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Time, according to size : to roast a very young sucking kid will take about an hour- and a half. Probable cost, uncertain, kids being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Kidney and Beef Steak Pudding {see Beef Steak and Kidney Pudding). Kidney and Liver Pudding. A good pudding may be made with equal weights of ox kidney and liver, as follows : Take threequart :rs of a pound of each. Cut them into slices, and sea-son with salt and cayenne. Frj' these with two ounces of bacon, cut' small, and two ounces of dripping. When lightly browned, pour over them by degrees three-quarters of a pint of water, or stock, mixc . with a tablespoonful of flour. Line a pudding-basin with a good crust, put in the meat and gravy when nearly boiling, place the lid over, pinch the edges securely, tie the basin in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly until the pudding is done enough. Serve as hot as possible. Time, one hour to boil. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. KID (348) KID Kidney Beans {see Beans, French or Kidney) . Kidney Beans, White, Fricasseed. Take one pint of either fresh or dry white kidney beans. Itemove the skins ; and in order to do this, the beans, if dry, must be soaked in water for ten or twelve hours,- and afterwards boiled until tender, when the skdns will slip off. If fresh, they must be put into sealdmg water for a minute, and the skins peeled oli. Tut the beans into a saucepan, add as much good veal stock as will cover them, with half a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a large bunch of parsley, a small one of thyme, and a piece of fresh butter, rolled in flour. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes ; then take out the herbs, and put into the sauce a glass of sherry. Let it boil, then draw it from the fii'o a minute to cool, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs, mixed with half a cupful of thick cream, and the strained juice of half a lemon. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with French beans, pickled. Time, half an hour to stew the beans after the skins have been taken off. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kidney Fritters. i\Iake a batter with four well-beaten eggs, mixed with half a pint of new milk, and flavoured with a little jjepper, salt, and pounded mace. Stir into this a teaspoonful each of finely-shred chives, parsley, and mushi-ooms, and a table-spoonful of the remains of a cold veal kidney finely minced, and mixed with half its weight of fat. Beat together for two or three minutes, then melt an ounce of butter in the frying-pan, pour in the mixture, and stir it until it is set. AVhen it is browned on one side, turn it on a hot dish, hold a salamander or red-hot shovel over it for a minute ?r two to colour it on the other, and serve immediately. Time, five or six minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Kidney Gravy. Take an ox kidney, or if preferred, four sheeps' kidneys, cut into slices, di-edge these with flour, and fry them lightly in butter, with a thinly-sliced onion and a bunch of sweet herbs. ]\Iove them about gently until nicely browTied, then pour over them a pint of water. Simmer gently for an hour and a half, strain, and set aside for use. Time, six minutes to fry the meat. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for one pint of gravy. Kidney Irish Stew. Take the hard core out of the middle of an ox kidney, and cut it into pieces about one and a half inches square. Season with salt and pepper, and put it into a saucepan with an onion finely minced, and a quarter of a pint of water, or stock. Let the liquid boil, and remove the scum carefully; then put half a dozen large peeled potatoes into the pan, and simmer gently until they are sufficiently cooked, but imbroken. Put the kidney in the middle of a dish, arrange the potatoes round it, pour the gravy over all, and serve as hot as possible. Time, one hour to simmer the stew. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kidney Omelet. Take the remains of a. cold veal kidney, or if this is not at hand, cut a fresh one into shoes, and fry it over a clear fire for three or four minutes. Mince it very finely, season with salt and cayenne, and mix two table-spoonfuls of the mince with the wellbeaten yolks of six and the whites of three eggs. Add three ounces of fresh butter, broken small. Put two ounces of butter in an omelet-pan, let it remain on a slow fire until it bubbles, then pour in the mixture, and stir briskly for three or four minutes until the eggs are set. Fold the edges of the omelet over neatly, and turn it carefully upon a hot dish. Serve immediately. If too much cooked it will be tough. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kidney, Ox, Stewed. Cut a fresh ox; kidney into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, soak them for a few minutes in lukewarm water, drain, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth. Season them with a little pepper, dredge flour thickly over them, and fry them in three ounces of hot butter, or dripping, until they are brightly browned. Pour the third of a pint of boiling water or stock over them, and add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar in which onions have been pickled, or, if this is not at hand, plain vinegar or lemon- juice; a finelyminced shallot, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little salt and cayenne. Thicken the gravy before serving, and garnish with fried parsley. Half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard may be stirred into the sauce before it is taken from the fire, if this is liked. Time to stew, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufiicienb for two or three persons. Kidney Pie (for breakfast or luncheon). Take four v(;al kidneys, and half its bulk in fat with each. Cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick, season rather highly with salt and cayenne, and add half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace for the whole. Cut the meat from a calf's foot, and season it in the same way. Place a layer of kidney at the bottom of a piedish, strew over it two ounces of finely-minced ham, and lay on this the slices of calf's foot. Repeat until the dish is nearly full. Put the hard-boiled yolks of six eggs and half a dozen forcemeat balls at the top, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of veal stock, flavoured with lemon- juice. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover it with the same, and bake in a moderate oven. Though forcemeat balls are an improvement to the i ie, they may bedispensed with. They are made as follows: Strain ten or twelve oysters from their liquid,, mince them very finely, and mix them with four ounces of finely-grated bread-criunbs, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a little salt, cayenne, and mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Bind them together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg and a little of the oyster liquor, make them into balls, and they are ready for use. This pie, which is generally a favourite, should be eaten cold. A good pie may be made with cold kidney and a fewslices of the kidney-fat from a cold loin of veal, instead of fresh kidneys. Time, from an hour KID ( 349 ) KIT nd a half to two hours to bake. Probable cost, 3s. Od. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Kidney Pudding. Cut the hard core out of the centre of an ox kidney, and divide the meat into pieces an inch sc;[uare. Season these with pepper and salt; and, if liked, add an onion and two ounces of beef suet, finely minced. Make some pastry, with three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of good dripping, and as much water as is requiied. lioU. it out, line a pudding-basin with it, and put in the slices of meat. Poui' over them a tea-cupful of cold water, place a cover of pastry on the top, pinch the edges securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, and plunge it into boiling water. Boil quickly. Turn the pudding out ?when cooked enough, and serve very hot. Time, two hours to boil. Probable cost. Is. Gd. Suflicient for four persons. Kidney Pudding (another way). This pudding may also be made of mutton, veal, or lamb. Make the pastry as dii-ected in the last recipe. Line a pudding-basin with it, and slice haK a dozen kidneys. Season them with salt and cayenne, and sprinkle ovei* them a dessert-spoonfiil of powdered herbs, of which two-thirds should be parsley and one-third thj-me. Put them in the basin, pour over them two or three table-spoonfuls of good veal stock and a glassful of light wine ; cover them with the crust, pinch in the edges securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep, it boUing quickly until it is cooked enough. Serve as hot as possible. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufflcient for four or five persons. Kidney, Rissoles of. Take the remains of an ox kidney ; cut some thin slices from it, weigh them, and to half a pound of kidney put half a pound of lean boiled ham. Mince the meat veiy finely, season with pepper and salt, ai-d moisten it with the yolk of an egg well beaten. EoU out half a pound of the trimmings of puff paste to the thickness of the eighth of an inch. Divide the mince into small balls, roil each one in paste, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly bro \ led. Serve as hot as possible, and garnish with parsley. Time, three or foirr minutes to fry. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Kidney Soup. Cut an ox kidney into thin slices. Season these with salt and pepper, dredge a little flour over them, and frj- them in butter until they are nicely browned. Pour over them as much boiling water as will cover them, and simmer gently for an hour. Take out the kidney, cut it into small pieces, and return it to the saucepan, together with two quarts of stock, two turnips, two carrots, one onion, three sticks of celerj-, all cut small, and a small bunch of savoury herbs. Simmer slowly for an hour and a half, then take out the herbs ; add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little salt and pepper, if required, and thicken the soup with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Kidney Toast. Pound a cold veal kidney, \ith the fat which surrounds it, in a mortar. Season it with half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the finely-grated rind of a quarter of a lemon, and two or three gi-ates of nutmeg. Mix it with the white of an egg, well whisked. Lay it upon pieces of toast cut into squares. Cover with the yolk of the egg, weU beaten, and strew bread-crumbs over. Melt one ounce of butter in a dish, put in the toasts, and place them in a hot oven to bake. Serve as hot as possible. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the toasts. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kidneys (a la Tartare). Broil five or six kidneys. Put them on a hot dish, and serve the following sauce with them, which should be prepared before the kidneys are put on to broil: Beat the yolk of an egg for two or three minutes. Add verj' gradually, in drops at first, six tea-spoonfuls of oil, and then one of tarragon \'inegar. Beat the mixture well between every addition, or the oil will float at the top. Repeat until the sauce is of the consistence of thick cream. Four table-spoonfuls of oil, and one of vinegar, will be about the quantity required. Add a pinch of salt, a small pinch of cayenne pepper, a table-spoonful of unmixed French mustard, five or six gherkins, three shallots, finely minced, a tea-spoonful each of chopped chervil, tarragon, and bumet, and half a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar. Put a tea-spoonful of this sauce in the hollow of each kidney, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, six minutes to bi'oil the kidney; about three-quarters of an hour to prepare the sauce. Sufficient for foui" or five persons. Probable cost, 3d. each. Kidneys, Minced. Chop an ox kidney into pieces the size of a pea, season them rather highly with salt and cayenne, and fry them in two ounces of hot butter for a quarter of an hour, mo angthem about frequently in the pan, that they may be equally cooked. Moisten the mince with one table-spoonful of good brown gi-a\-y, and three table-spoonfuls of champagne, and serve in a hot dish. If preferred, a larger proportion of gi'a'symaybe used, and mushroom ketchup may be substituted for the wine. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. Is. 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kitchen Mixed Spice, for Wliite Sauce. -Take the grated rind of haK a lemon, half a nutmeg, grated, an ounce of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Mix thoroughly. If not quite fine, pound all together in a mortar, and keep in a closelystoppered bottle until wanted for use. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity. When using kitchen mixed spice, put half a tea-spoonfiil into a pint of sauce, and taste if more is requii-ed. Kitchen Utensils (we Utensils, &c.). Kitchener's Salad Mixture. Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in a basin of cold water for a few minutes ; the yolks must be quite cold and hard, or they will not incorporate with the ingredients. Pub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a tablespoonfiil of water, or fine double cream, then add two table-spoonfuis of oil, or melted butter ; KIT ( 350 ) KRI when these are -well mixed, add by degrees a tea-spoonful of salt, or powdered lump sugar, and the same of made mustard. When these ingredients are smoothly united, add very gradually three table- spoonfuls of \inegar, rub it with the other ingredients till it is thoroughly incorporated with them ; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the stikd with it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do not stir up the salad till it is to be eaten. If the herbs be young, freshly gathered, neatly trimmed, and drained dry, and the sauce maker ])onders patiently over these directions, he lamiot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished salad dresser. Probable cost, 4d. .Sufficient for a good-sized bowl of salad. Kitchener's Store Sauce, Superlative (for iish, poultry, game, &c.). Take a pint of claret or port, a pint of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of walnut or lemon pickle, four ounces of jjounded anchovies, an ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared very thin, an ounce of scraped horseradish, an ounce of finely minced shallots, half an ounce of powdered black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, a drachm of caj'enne or throe drachms of curry -powder and a drachm of bruised celery-seed. Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, and let them remain for a fortnight, shaking them every day. At the end of that time strain, and put into small bottles for use. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient, a tablespoonful for a quarter of a pint of melted butter or gravy. Elldsse. These dishes, which are purely Grerman, are composed of small light balls, boiled in water, gravy, or milk, and served hot, either as a garnish for other dishes or by tliemselves. They are generally composed of the crumb of bread, grated or soaked, potatoes, or rice and eggs, and they may be almost indefinitely varied with fish, meat, poultry, herbs, liver, fruit, &:c. In making them, care should be taken to handle the klosse as lightly as possible, and to keep dipping the fingers in cold water whilst shaping them into balls. They should be di'opped gently into the boiling liquid, simmered gently for eight or ten minutes, and served immediately they are taken out. The following is a simple recipe for klosse : Take six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, season them with half a tea-spoonful of salt and a little nutmeg, and mix them with four ounces of fresh butter, which has been beaten to a cream. Add three weU-beaten eggs, mix thoroughly, shape into small balls, as they will swell in cooking, and drop them gently from a Avet spoon into boiling water. Serve as soon as they are taken out, either in soup, or as a garnish for vegetables ; or they may be piled in a pATamid in the middle of a hot dish, with fried potixtoes round them. Time, eight or ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Klosse Bread, with Thyme. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a crejim, mix Vr-ith it a table-spoonful of flom", the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, twelve ounces of grated roll, and a little salt and nutmeg. Add sufficient l)0wdered thyme to season, according to taste. filix thoroughly; and when ready for cooking,, add the whites of the four eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Shape the klosse into small balls about the size of a walnut, and drop them from a wet spoon into boiling salted water. Simmer gently, and serve immediately they are taken out. Time, fifteen minutes to boil. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Klosse, Seasoned (to be eaten with eggs and bacon) . Chop a small onion as finely as possible. Mix with it two ounces of fat bacon, finely minced, and a tea-spoonful of powdered sage. Mix these ingredients thoroughly ?with three-quarters of a pound of grated breadcrumbs, a table-spoonful of flour, a little pepper and nutmeg, and the weU-beaten yolks of four eggs. When ready for cooking, add the whites in of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Boil salt and water, and serve piled in the middles of a hot dish, with fried rashers of bacon and poached eggs round. Time, fifteen minutes to boU. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Kneaded Cakes. Mix a quarter of a, ])0und of currants with three-quarters of a pound of flour, and a pinch of salt. Make up into a paste with some thick cream, roll the paste out to the tliickness of half an inch, cut it into rounds vith the top of a small teacup, and bake on a griddle, or in a brisk oven. If no cream is at hand, good cakes may be made by rolling out a pound of puif paste to the thick- ness of a penny piece. Strew some currants and a little moist sugar over half of these, place the other half over them, and bake as before. These cakes are best when served hot. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is., if made with cream ; 8d. with pastry. Sufficient for about two dozen cakes. Konglauffe (German). Beat ten ounces of fresh butter to a cream ; add a quarter of a pound of fine flour, a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of grated lemon-peel, two ounces of poimded sugar, and two eggs ; stir all briskly together for ten minutes. Mix in by degrees three-quarters of a pound of flour and two additional eggs, and keep beating the paste quickly with a wooden spoon as they are put in. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of German yeast in a quarter of a pint of thick cream, which has been slightly warmed for the purpose. IMake a hollow in the middle of the paste, pour in the cream and yeast, and work all thoroughly to a smooth batter. Butter a quart mould, place some blanched and sliced almonds round the inside at equal distances, and bake in a moderate oven. The cake should be a bright red. Time, bake until a skewer can be pushed easily to the bottom, and when taken out be quite drj- say from an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Kringles. Warm two ounces of fresh butter slightly, but not so as to melt it. Mix it with the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, well beaten ; add two ounces, of sifted sugar, half a pound of flour, and a pinch of salt, and knead to a smooth paste. KRO (351 ) LAD RoU the paste out to the thickness of half an inch. Stamp in rounds with an ordinarjcutter, prick the rounds with a fork, and bake on buttered tins in a moderato oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or eight kringles. Kromeskies. Kromeskies are croquettes cooked in the Kussian manner ; they are made as follows : Mince the remains of any cold meat, fish, poultry, or shell-fish, as for croquettes ; season them nicely, and shape them, as usual, like a cork. Instead of dipping them in egg, and afterwards in bread-crumbs, cut some slices of cold fat bacon about as thin as writing-paper ; wrap the croquettes in these, dip each one in a little frying batter {see Frj-ing Batter), fry them in hot lard or butter, and when brown and crisp, aiTange neatly on a hot dish ; garnish with fried parsley, and serve immediately. Kromeskies may be made according to any of the recipes given for croquettes, and should be cooked as above. The following recipe wiU serve as a specimen. Kromeskies of Oysters. Open carefully two dozen fresh oysters. Beard them, and cbop them small ; then mince cold chicken or turkey verj- finely. Mix equal quantities, add three mushrooms cut into small pieces, the yolk of an egg, the oyster liquor, and a table-spoonful of cream. Stir the mixture over a slow fire until it is quite thick ; then put it into a cool place for an hour, and when cold, roll it into croquettes the shape and size of small corks ; fold thin fat bacon round these, dip them into a frying batter, and frj- them in hot lard until they are crisp and brown. Serve piled in the centre of a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Time, six or eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Kuwab Fowl. Put four cloves, a drachm of pounded ginger, a drachm of cayenne, and half an ounce of coriander-seed in a mortar. Pound these until quite smooth . and mix with them three small onions, finely aiinced. Di\'ide a small chicken into neat joints ; rub them inside and out with the mixture, and put them into a frjang-pan, with a quarter of a poimd of sweet butter. Turn them about constantly, and when they are brightly browned all over and sufficiently cooked, squeeze over them the strained juice of a lemon, and serve as hot as possible. Time to bake, half an hoiu-. Probable cost of chicken, '2s. 6d- Sufficient for two or three persons. Iiadies' Pickle (sometimes called La(kes' Delight). Mix a quarter of a pound of Spanish onions, finely minced, with a quarter of a pound of chopped apples, and an ounce of chopped chili es. Pour over them half a pint of white wine vinegar, which has been boiled with a tea -spoonful of salt, and when cold put the mixture into bottles, to be used as a relish for cold meat. A stick of celery, finely minced, is by many persons considered an improvement to this favourite pickle. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Ladies' Wine Biscuits (sometimes called Ladies' Lips). Mix three ounces of ground rice and three ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Make them into a paste with three fresh eggs. Beat all thoroughly for some minutes, then spread the mixture evenly and thinly on paper, and bake on a well-oiled tie for twenty minutes. Stamp the paste into small ornamental shapes with an ordinary pastrycutter, and spread over them a thin coating ?f icing, prepared as follows: Beat the white of an egg to a firm froth. Slix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar and as much cold water as will make it quite smooth. Colour part of this with two or three drops of cochineal. Spread a little on the top of the biscuits, and put them into a cool oven imtil the icing sets. Keep the biscuits in a tin box, closely covered, until wanted for use. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 7d. for this quantity. Lady Abbess' Pudding. This excellent pudding is sometimes called Lady Betty's Delight. Take the thin rind of a fresh lemon, and let it soak for half an hour ia half a pint of new milk, then sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put the whole into a saucepan, and when well heated, add two large fresh eggs and the milk of a cocoa-nut, and put the custard aside to cool. Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, grate two ounces of a fresh cocoa-nut, and stone and mince six ounces of Muscatel raisins. Cut four ounces of stale bread into thin slices. Butter a plain round mould, and stick raisins upoii it in even rows. Put a slice of bread at the bottom, and place upon it a little suet, a few raisins, a little chopped lemon-rind and juice, three grates of nutmeg, and a little custard, and repeat until aU the ingredients are used, being careful to place bread and custard at the top. Let the pudding soak for an hour, then lay a buttered paper on the top, tie in a floured cloth, plunge into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with the following sauce in a tureen. Mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot very smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cocoa-nut milk. Pour over it a quarter of a pint of boiling syrup flavoured with lemon-rind and cinnamon, stir all together until the mixture is nearly cold, then add two table-spoonfuls of cream, a few drops of vaniUa essence, and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Time to boil the pudding, three hours and a half. Probable cost, with the sauce, Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lady Abbess' Puffs. Blanch sis ounces of Jordan almonds. Throw them into cold water as they are done, and afterwards wipe them dry and pound them in a mortar, adding a few drops of rose or orange-flower water everj' now and then to prevent them oiUng. Slix with them a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar and half an ounce of fresh butter. Pound to a smooth paste. Spread this evenly and thinly on smaU buttered patty-pans, and bake in a verj' slow oven iintil the puJis are crisp. Before serv-ing, put a little LAD ( 352 ) LAM jam into each, and cover it with whipped cream. The puffs should be cold before the jam is put into them. Time to bake, an hour or more. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a dozen and a haK puffs. Lady Fingers. Whisk four fresh eggs thorouglily, the whites and the yokes separately. Mix smoothly with the yolks three ounces of powdered sugar and three ounces of flour, add the whites, and afterwards a quarter of a pint of rose-water. Beat all together for some minutes. Have ready a well-buttered bakingtin, form the paste upon it with a spoon in " fingers," three inches long and thi-ee-quarters of an inch wide, sift a little powdered sugar over them, let them stand five or six minutes to melt the sugar, then put them into a moderate oven, and bake until they are I'ghtiy browned. When cool, put them in pairs, and keep them in a tin canister closely covered until wanted for use. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two dozen fingers. Lait Sucr {see Milk, Sugared, or Lait Sucre) . Lamartine's Pudding. Stew four large apples in a little water, with a small piece of cinnamon, luitil they are tender, but unbroken. Take them up, drain them, and beat them with a fork. Let them get cold, then mix with them the yolks of four eggs and the white of one, well beaten, a little pounded sugar, two or three drops of vanilla, two ounces of fresh butter, and three-quarters of a pint of cream or good milk. Line a pie-dish with good puff paste. Poirr in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Strew sifted sugar over before serving. Apricots may be substituted for ? the apples in this recipe. Time to bake, half an hoirr. Probable cost, when made with milk, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb. House lamb (by which is meant lamb born in the middle of winter, reared under LAMB, JOINTED, shelter, and fed, in a great measure, upon milk) is considered a great delicacy. It may be obtained from Christmas to Lady Day. At Easter, grass lamb, or lamb brought up out of doers, and fed upon grass, comes into season. Like all young animals, lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome. The joint should not be taken from the fire until the gravy drops from it. Lamb is usually cut into quarters, and of these the fore-quarter, which consists of the shoulder (3), the breast (5), and the neck (4), is considered the best. It should be cooked fresh, and its quality may be easily tested by the appearance of the vein of the neck, which should be ruddy or of a bluish colour. It is generally roasted, though in very young lamb, the leg, which is frequently served by itself, and makes a useful and excellent joint, may be boiled and sent to table with white sauce. The hind-quarter, consisting of the leg (1) and loin (2), is better for hanging two or tlu-ee days. As, however, lamb will not keep well in unfavourable weather, or for any length of time, it should be examined daily, and the moisture carefully wiped from the joints. In order to ascertain whether or not it is fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney. Any taint may be easily discovered by the smell. The fat of lamb should be finn and Hght, the lean a clear faintish white, and also firm. If the fat be yellow and the lean flabby and red, the lamb is of inferior quaUty, and will not keep. Where economy is a consideration, lamb should not be bought before it is five months old. Lamb (al'Espagnole). See Lamb, Cooked whole (sometimes called Lamb a I'Espagnole). Lamb (a la Milanaise) . See Lamb, Breast of, Braised (sometimes called Lamb a la Milanaise). Lamb and Currant Pie. Cut about two pounds of the breast of lamb into small, neat pieces. Put them in a pie-dish, and sprinkle over them a desert-spoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of pepper, a table- spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and three table-spoonfuls of picked currants. Beat two eggs thoroughly, mix with them a wine-glassful of sherry, and pour them over the meat. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover with the same, and bake in a moderate oven. A little white wine and sugar should be sent to table with this pie. Time, an hour and a half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb (au Bechamel). aS' ' Lamb, Leg of Stewed with Bechamel, or White Sauce. Lamb, Baked, and Rosemary. Butter a baking-dish, and lay in it one or two sprigs of rosemary and two bay-leaves. Place upon these any joint of lamb weighing four or five pounds, first seasoning it vnth pepper and salt. Put a quarter of a pint of stock at the bottom of the pan, and place two ounces of fresh butter, divided into small pieces, here and there upon the meat. Put the dish in a moderate oven, baste the lamb frequently, and when done enough, skim the fat from the gravy, and serve it strained over the joint. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. LAM ( 353 LAM Lamb, Bladebone of. Broiled. Take a cold shoulder of lamb weighing from two to three pounds, and score the flesh to the hones in squares about an inch apai-t. Make a powder by mixing together a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Eub this well into the flesh, then place the meat on a hot gridiron, put it four or five inches above a clear tire, and broil it first on one side and then on the other until it is hot throughout. Place it on a hot dish, brush it over with clarified butter, squeeze the juice of a lemon upon it, and serve as hot as possible. If preferred, the meat can be egged and bread-crumbed before being broiled. Time to broil, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Boned, Quarter of. Take the bone fi-om a quarter of lamb, being careful to keep the knife close to the bone, spread over the meat half a pound of veal forcemeat, roll it round securely, skewer it firmly, and bind it with tape. Put it down to a clear fire, and baste liberally, with good beef or mutton fat. Send mint sauce to table with it. Time to roast, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lamb Brains and Tongue. Take the tongue from the head after it has been boiled, and put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it. "Wash the brains in lukewarm water, pick the fibres from them, and tie them in a piece of muslin, with a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and boil all together for a quarter of an hour. Take out the brains, chop them small, season them with a little pepper and salt, and put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of cream, and half an ounce of fresh butter rolled in floirr. Stir them over the fire, and let them boil a minute or two, then skin the tongue, place it on a hot dish, and serve the brains round it. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for one person. Lamb, Braised. Bone a shoulder of lamb, fill up the opening with forcemeat, skewer it secui-ely, and braise it for two hours over a slow fire. Serve on spinach or sorrel prepared in the usual way. Probable cost, about Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Breast of, and Peas. ~ Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, cut away pai-t of the fat, and divide into neat pieces. Dredge a little flour over these, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of fresh hutter, and let them remain until they are lightly browTied on both sides, then pour over them as much warm water as will cover them ; add a bunch of parsley and a small onion, and simmer gently until the meat is three-parts cooked. Skim oflE the fat, take out the onion and parsley, and mince the latter finely. Return it to the gravy with a pint and a half of green peas. Add a little pepper and salt, and simmer again until the peas are tender. Place the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy and peas over it, and serve as hot as possible. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Breast of, Braised (sometimes called Lamb a la ]\lilanaisc). Take the skin fi-om a breast of lamb, and scald it for two or three minutes in boiling water. Drain it, and plunge it at once into cold water. Peel a lemon, cut it into thin slices, lay these on the breast, and afterwards cover it all over with bacon. Put the meat into a braising-pan, pour over it half a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, and let it simmer veiy gently until done enough. Have ready half a pound of boiled macaroni, put it on a hot dish, place the lamb upon it, and cover the whole with half a pint of good brown gravy. The appearance of the dish will be very much improved if the lamb is glazed. If preferred, the macaroni may be omitted, and spinach served with the lamb. Time to simmer, until' tender, from an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Breast of. Braised (another way). Braise a breast of lamb as in the last recipe. When sufficiently cooked, take out the bones, put the meat between two dishes, lay a weight upon the top, and let it remain until cold. Cut it into neat pieces, the size and shape of cutlets. Let these be heated in some of the liquid in which the meat was braised, glaze them, and place them in a circle on a dish, with a quart of fine green peas in the centre, prepared as follows : Put a quart of peas into a bowl, with as much cold water as will cover them, and two or three ounces of fresh butter. Rub them together with the fingers, until they are well covered with butter, then diain off "the water, and put the peas into a stewpan with a small slice of ham, a bunch of parsley, two or three green onions, half a tea-spOonful of salt, and two tea-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Stir them well over the ftre, and moisten them, if necessary, with a little of the boiling gi'a-sy. When tliey are nearly done, remove the ham, parsley, and onions, and let them boU until they are tender, and no liquid remains. Work smoothly together half an ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of flour. Put this to the boiling peas. Shake the saucepan over the fire until the peas are well thickened, then serve immediately. Time, an hour and a half, or more, to braise the lamb ; about twenty minutes to boU the peas. Probable cost of lamb, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Lamb, Breast of, Broiled. Trim a breast of lamb, and put it into a stewpan with as much stock as wiU just cover it. Add a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion stuck with one or two cloves, and let it sinmier very gently until it is sufficiently tender to remove the bones, then take these out. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the meat, brush it over twice with egg and bread-crumbs, to which, if liked, a little chopped parsley can be added, or a tea-spoonful of powdered herbs, and broil it over a clear fire. When it is brightly browned on one side, turn it carefully to brown the other ; serve on a hot dish, and send the following LAM (354 ) LAM sauce to table in a tui-een : Put two ounces of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of vinegar into a saucepan, let them simmer imtil the sugar is dissolved, then add a, pinch of cayenne, and a wine-glassful of claret. Sumner a quarter of an hour, and serve hot. Time, about an hour and a half to simmer the lamb : it should be broiled until brightly browned on both sides. Sufficient for three or foiu: persons. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Lamb, Breast of, Broiled (another way). Take two breasts of lamb, trim them neiitly, remove the tendons, and tie the joints together. Simmer them gently, as inthe last recipe, until the bones ciin be di-awn out easily, then remove these, sprinkle salt and pepper over the meat, and place it between two dishes. Put a weight on the top, and let it remain untU cold. "When wanted for use, cut the meat into neat pieces, brush these over twice with egg and bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear lire until biightly browned on both sides. Dish them neatly, and send brown gravy and tomato or piquant sauce to table with them. Time, eight or ten minutes to broil the lamb. Sufficient for four or live persons. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Lamb, Breast of, Collared. Take a fine breast of lamb, remove the bones and gristle, and the outside skin, and lay it flat on the table. Strew a little salt and pepper over it, and spread upon it a mixture made as follows : Wash and bone five anchovies, pound them in a mortar, and with them the yolks of three "hard-boiled oggs; add the thin rind of half a lemon, finely minced, half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, si.K ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Mix thoroughly. Roll the meat round and round, tie it in a doth, and bind it securely with tape. Boil it gently. When done enough, place the lamb under a weight, and do not remove the tapes untU quite cold. Time to boil, twenty minutes for everj' pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Breast of, Rolled. Take the bones out of a breast of lamb, being ciirefu] not to cut the upper skin. Put them into a saucepan with an onion stuck with one clove, and a pint of stock or water. Let them simmer gently for gravy. Slake a quarter of a pound of good veal forcemeat, spread this upon the under side of the breast, then roll it round and round, and skewer it firmly and neatly. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, let it melt, then put in the breast of veal, and brown it brightly and equally all over. 'WTien sufficiently coloured, strain the gxavy from the bones upon it, add a little pepper and salt, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently until the meat is tender. A spoonful of browning may be added, if required. Spinach or green peas may be ser\'ed with this dish. Time to stew, from one and a half to two hours, according to the size. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Breast of, Stewed. Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, cut the meat into neat pieces, strew a little pepper and salt over these, place them in a stewpan with as much weak stock as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently imtil tender. Dr in the meat, and place it on a hot dish. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, add a glass of sherry or any other light wine, and boil for two or three minutes longer. Stewed mushrooms or cucumbers are a great improvement to this dish. Time to stew, about an hour. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb Chops and Potatoes. Egg and bread-crumb some neatly-trimmed lamb chops, and fry them in the usual way {see Lamb Chops, Fried). For half a dozen chops prepare a pound and a half of potatoes. Boil and drain them, and beat them up with a fork, then add a quarter of a pint of boiling broth, or, failing this, milk. Beat well until quite smooth, pass the potatoes through a sieve, put them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, and stir briskly until they are quite hot. PUe the potatoes high in the centre of a hot dish, and place the chops round them in an upright position, one overlapping the other. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry the chops; forty minutes to prepare the potatoes. Probable cost of chops, Is. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lam.b Chops, Broiled. Out the chops about half an inch thick, trim them neatly, flatten them, remove the superfluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire, and let them remain until brightly b o vned on both sides, turning them with steak-tongs when required. Season them with pepper and salt, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, asparagus, green peas, or spinach are usually served with lamb chops. Time, eight or nine minutes to broU. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Lamb Chops, Fried. Cut a loin or neck of lamlj into chops from half to threequarters of an inch in thickness. Dip each one into beaten egg, and afterwards into breadcrumbs, flavoured as follows : Mix three ounces of finely-grated bread-crum*b8 with a salt-spoonful of stilt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of finely-minoed lemon-rind. Fry the chops in good dripping until lightly browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon or crisped parsley. Time to frj-, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Lamb Chops Pried with Parmesan. Take some lamb chops from the loin or neck, as in the last recipe. Mix the bread-crumbs with a little grated Parmesan cheese, and dip these first into cLarified butter and bi-eadcrumbs, and afterwards into beaten egg and bread-cnmibs. Fry the chops as before until they are lightly browned on both sides, dish them in a circle, and send tomato s;iuce to table in a tureen. Time, fifteen minutes to fry. LAM ( Z90 ) LAM Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Lamb Chops with Cucumber Sauce. Diji the chops in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them [see Lamb Chops, Fried). When nicely bro-wned, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, and put in the centre a sauce prepared as follows : Peel a young fresh cucumber, and cut it into dice ; strew a little pepper and salt o%'er these. Melt three or four ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the cucumber, cover it closely, and place it on a moderate fire, shaking the pan frequently, to prevent sticking. When it is steamed until the pieces of cucumber are quite tender, but unbroken, serve them in the centre of the dish. Time, fifteen minutes to broil the chops ; about twenty minutes to stew the cucumber. Lam.b Chops with Herbs. Cut some chops from the loin or neck of lamb. Trim them neatly, and dip them first into clarified butter, and afterwards into a mixture made of equal quantities of chives and parsley. Fr them in hot fat until they are nicely browned, or broil them over a clear fire, and serve them on a hot dish, garnished wath crisped parsley. The following sauce may be sent to table with them : -Take a sprig of thyme, two sprigs of parsley, and three or four leaves of tarragon. Strip the leaves from the stalks, wash them, and chop them small. Mix them smoothly with a piece of butter the size of an egg and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and pour over them half a pint of boiling gravy. Simmer four or five minutes over the fire, and rub out any lumps that may form. Season -sWth a little salt and pepper, if required ; add a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, and stir the whole briskly while boiling over the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to cook the chops ; a quarter of an hour to prepare the gravy. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for three persons. Lamb, Cold (en Blanquette). Take some cold lamb, mince it finely, and season it ?with a little salt and pepper. Supposing there to be a pound and a half of cold lamb, divide six large mushrooms into slices. Fry those in three ounces of butter for five minutes, then pour over them half a pint of good veal stock, mixed smoothly with a tea-spoonful of flour, and simmer gently for half an hour. Now add the minced lamb, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with four table-spoonfuls of cream. Let those heat very gently, stirring all the time. In ten minutes the lamb will be ready to serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold lamb. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Cold Roast, Stew of. Cold roast lamb is so very nice with a little mint sauce and mashed potatoes that it seems a pity to warm it up. When it is preferred hot, however, the following is an excellent method of preparing it : Cut the cold meat into thin slices, trim these neatly, and season them rather highly with pepper and a Httlo suM. Dip each piece in finely-grated bread-crumbs which have been moistened in gravy, and strew over them a spoonful or two of finely-minced pickleis, such as gherkins, walnuts, &c. Pour over the whole two table - spoonfuls of pickle vinegar and four table-spoonfuls of the gra-vy of the meat. Put the dish in the oven, and let it remain until quite hot. Gamish with browned potato balls. Serve the meat in the dish in which it was heated, which may be placed in another covered with a napkin. Time, about half an hour to heat. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient, two poimds of cold roast meat for three or four persons. Lamb, Cooked Whole (sometimes called Lamb a I'Espagnole). On the Continent lambs are occasionally roasted entire, something like sucking pigs, and are very delicate and good. It is evident that for this the animal must be very young, not more than five or six weeks old. The only preparation required is to remove the skin, take out the fry, and cut off the feet ; then cover the lamb with slices of bacon fastened on with small string-, put it down to a clear fire, and let it remain until done enough. Take the bacon off about a quarter of an hour before the lamb is taken up, so that it may brown, and take care that it is equally cooked all over. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send bread sauce and brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to roast, two hours and a haK or three hours. Probable cost uncertain, lambs suitable for this dish being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lamb Cutlets. Take the best end of a well-hung neck of lamb. Saw it off two or three inches from the top of the bones, leaving the cutlets about four inches long. Scrape off the meat from the end of the bone, so as to leave an inch quite bare. Chop off the thick part of the chine bone, and pare away the flat bones which adhere to the meat and spoil the shape. Flatten the cutlets with a cutlet bat. A butcher will always shape the cutlets if requested to do so. They may be either broiled plainly or egged, bread-crumbed, and fried. Green peas, asparagus, spinach, and mashed potatoes are all favourite accompaniments of lamb cutlets, and an infinite variety of sauces may be served -with them. The sauce frequently gives its name to the dish, as Cutlets a la Poulette, Cutlets a la Eobert, which names simply mean cutlets served with Robert or Poiilette sauce. There is no occasion for any waste in shaping cutlets, as the bones can be stewed down for gravy and the fat melted for frying. Lamb Cutlets (a la Dauphine.) 6'ee Cutlets, Lamb. Lamb Cutlets (a la Princesse.) iScf Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (sometimes called Lamb Cutlets a la Princesse). Lamb Cutlets (a Li Robert ). ]Mince three or four large onions very finely; put them into a stewpan with three ounces of fresh butter, and brown them lightly over a gentle fire. Shake the pan about to prevent burning'. Add a LAM ( 356 ) LAM i,able-spoonful and a haK of vinegar, and boil altogether for three or four minutes. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with haK a pint of good, nicely-flavoiu-ed stock ; add these io the vinegar, &c., and simmer gently for a ?quarter of an hour. Just before sei-ving stir -a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard and a ?dessert-spoonful of Harvey's sauce in with the rest, and keep the whole quite hot until the cutlets are ready. Trim these neatly, dip them twice, first into clarified butter and eggcrumbs, and afterwards into beaten egg and tread-crumbs, and fry them in the usual way until they are lightly browned on both sides. Dish them in a circle, with the sauce poured over them. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry the cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Lamb Cutlets and Spinach. Pick the stalks carefuUy from the spinach and wash it in several waters. Let it drain, then put it into plenty of boiling water, in which about a table- spoonful of salt has been thrown, keep pressing it down with a wooden spoon, and let it boil very quickly. Drain and squeeze the water from it, and chop it very small. Put it into a saucepan with a little salt, and about three ounces of butter and three or four grates ?of nutmeg. Stir it over the fire until it becomes quite warm. A little cream, a table-spoonful of rich gravy, or the juice of a lemon may now be added if liked, but many people prefer the spinach dry. Keep it hot until the cutlets are ready. These may be trimmed, egged, breadcrunvbed, and broiled or fried in the usual way {sec Lamb Chops, Broiled, and Lamb Chops, Fried). Press the spinach into a mould, turn it on a hot dish, and place the cutlets round it in an upright position, one overlapping the ?other. Time, ten minutes to boil the spinach. Probable cost, cutlets. Is. per pound; spinach, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient, a pound and a half of spinach will be required for half a dozen chops. Lamb Cutlets, Cold. When a loin or -any other joint of lamb has been under-dressed, it is a good plan to divide it into cutlets of a neat shape and fully three-quarters of an inch in thickness, to dip these in beaten egg, strew over nicely-flavoured bread-crumbs, and fry or broil them until lightly browned on both sides. As there is a danger that the meat wiU be dry when it is dressed the second time, care should "be taken not only to cook the cutlets over a good fire, but also to dip them into a little clarified butter before serving them. Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufiicient, half a dozen cutlets for three persons. Lamb Cutlets or Chops Stewed in their own Gravy. Take a thick iron saucepan if possible, one sufiiciently large to take all the cutlets in one layer put a little cold water in it, though not nearly sufiicient to cover the cutlets, and after dipping these into cold water, peppering, and afterwards flouring them, put them into the pan, place them on a moderate fire, and let them simmer ?as gently as possible until they are done enough. 'Throw a tea-spoonful of salt over them as soon as they begin to simmer, and serve all the gravy in the dish with them. The great secret of stewing cutlets in this way is to let them simmer gently. If boiled quickly there will be no gravy left when they are to be taken oft', and the meat will be hard. Skim the fat off cai'efully before serving. Time to simmer, an hour. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufiicient, half a dozen cutlets for two or three persons. Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (sometimes called Lamb Cutlets, a la Princesse). Trim and shaj e some lamb cutlets neatly, and fry them plainly {see Lamb Chops, Fried), letting them be rather under-di-essed than otherwise. When half cold dip each cutlet into some good melted butter, flavoured with mushrooms. Place them uj)on ice to set the sauce, and afterwards on egg : bread-crumb, and fry them in the usual way, and serve \\dth asparagus, green peas, or any other vegetables. Good white sauce should be sent to table in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes altogether to cook the cutlets ten minutes each time. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufiicient, half a dozen for three persons. Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (another way). Take a table-spoonful of each of the follo%\'ing ingredients, all finely minced : Parsley, shallots, mushrooms, and lean ham. Put these into a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and stir them over the fire for five minutes. Adda quarter of a pint of sauce, a little pepper and salt, haK a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, three grates of nutmeg, and the yolks of two eggs. Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens, but it must not boil. Partially fry the cutlets, as in the last recipe ; when nearly cold dip them into the above preparation, and place them upon ice until the sauce is set. Dip the cutlets in egg and afterwards in breadcrumbs ; fry, and serve them -with a puree of spinach or green peas. Time, twenty minutes to fry the cutlets ten minutes each time The above quantity of sauce is sufiicient for a dozen cutlets Probable cost. Is. per pound. Lamb, Fore Quarter of. To Roast. This joint can scarcely be too fresh when dressed. Eemove the scrag, the shankbone, and the chinebone ; and crack the ribs half-way between the edge of the breast and the spine. Lay the meat down to a quick fire, and baste plentifully from the time of its being warmed through to that when it is ready for the table. Like all young meat, lamb should be very thoroughly cooked. About ten minutes before it is taken up dredge a little flour over it, and froth and brown it nicely. A slice of fresh butter, a cut lemon, and a little cayenne should be sent to table, so that when the shoiJder is separated from the ribs they may be ready for being laid between the two. This separation is sometimes effected before the joint is sent to table, but, of course, this must depend upon the wish of the carver. Serve the lamb with a cut paper ruffle on the shankbone, and send a little gravy made from the roast under it. Mint sauce and salad generally accompany this dish. Time, a fore-quarter of lamb, weighing ten pounds, will require from two hours to two hours and a half. The weather and the LAM ( 3o7 ) LAM strength of the fire often cause a difference. Probable cost, Ud. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lamb, Fore Quarter of. To Roast (another way). Prepare the joint as in the last recipe. Skewer three or four slices of bacon securely to the outer side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over the inner part, and strew upon it a thick covering of finelygrated bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and a little finely-minced parsley. Cover FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. the whole with a large sheet of buttered paper, and lay the lamb down to a clear even fire. When nearly done, remove the paper and bacon, baste the meat with yolk of egg mixed with the gravy, throw some more bread-crumbs over it, and let it remain \mtil nicely browned. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send mint sauce to table with it. Time, from two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lamb, Fricandeau of. Take a breast of lamb, and lard it in the usual way (see Lard, To), th three strips of fat bacon. Put it into a stewpan with two bunches of parsley, a small bunch of thyme and marjoram, a small bunch of green onions, six or eight peppercorns, a bay-leaf, one or two slices of fat bacon, and as much boiling water as will barely cover the meat. Simmer gently for half an hour ; then take it out, and boil the grav ' quickly until it is reduced to one half. Put the meat back again, skim the fat carefully from the liquid, and simmer gently once more until a glaze is seen on the top of the meat. Drain it upon a dish, and keep it hot until the sauce is reduced to a glaze. Brush the lamb over with two or three coats of this, and serve it upon dressed vegetables, such as sorrel, spinach, or green peas. Time, from three to four hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lam.b, Fricassee of. Take a breast of lamb, cut it into small pieces about an inch and a haK square, season these with a little pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with an onion stuck with four cloves, a sprig of basil, two baA'-leaves, and three ounces of fresh butter. Cover the saucepan closely, and lot it steam gently for half an hour, shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking. Pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover closely once more, and simmer for an hour. At the end of that time strain the sauce, and thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little water; stir into it three dessert-spoonfuls of chopped capers ; boil all two or three minutes ? longer, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish witb parsley and slices of lemon. Time to stew, about an hour and a haK. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Hind Quarter of. Take a hind-quarter of lamb, saw off the knucklebone, and wrap the joint in oiled or buttered paper. Put the roasting hook through the shank end, and place the joint before a clear fire. Baste it frequently with good dripping. Twenty minutes before it is taken down dredge a little flour over it, brown it nicely, and placeit on a hot dish, with two -or three tablespoonfuls of good gravy with it, and the rest in a tureen. Mint sauce should always accompany roast lamb. A cut lemon should be sent to table with this joint, and an empty dish upon which the carver may place the leg when it is severed from the loin. Time, two hours and a half, or a quarter of an hour for each, pound, counting from the time when the joint begins to roast. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lamb, Larded. Lard the surface of a leg of lamb with thin slices of fat bacon {see Lard, To), cover it with buttered paper, and put it dowTi to an even fire. Half an hour before it is done enough take off the paper, and sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace over it, and let it remain until it is brightly browned. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send mint sauce to table. Time to roast, about an hour and a half, or a quarter of an hour to the pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost. Is. perpound. Lamb, Leg of (a la Venison). A German recipe. Take six cloves, six juniper-berries, and a small tea-spoonful of pepper. Poimd these ingiedients to a fine powder, then mix with them the following herbs, finely minced : Four leaves of tarragon, a sprig of gi-een; rosemarj', and a sprig of marjoram ; add four shallots, and rub the whole into a well-hung leg of lamb weighing about five povmds. Lay the meat in a deep dish, pour over it foiir tablespoonfuls of claret mixed with four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Let it lie in this pickle for three days, and turn it every day. At the end. of that time wipe it with a dry cloth to free it from the herbs, sprinkle some salt over it, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste the meat liberally, while cooking, with the liquid in which it was soaked, boiled up with half a pint of good stock. Unless this is attended to it will be very dry. Ten minutes before the meat is taken up, pour a cupful of new milk into the pan, and rub it well into the brown crusting which will have formed at the side of the pan, and when the gravy boils jDOur it boiling-hot upon the weU-beaten yolk of an egg. Pour a little of this sai*ce into the dish, and serve the rest in a tureen. Garnish with slices. LAM ( 358 ) LAM ?of lemon and a little parsley. A saddle or a shoulder of lamb may be cooked in the name way. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for iive or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Boiled. Put a plump leg of lamb into as much boiling water as will barely cover it. Let it boil a few minutes, then add ?a pint of cold water ; bring it gently to a boil again, remove the scum carefully as it rises, iind afterwards simmeT t entli until done enough. A tea-spoonful of salt should be thrown into the water when the lamb is half cooked. Place the meat on a hot dish, garnish it with tufts ?of boiled cauliflower or carrots, and send caper sauce to table with it a little poured over the joint, and the rest in a tureen. The loin may be cut into steaks, fried, and served round garnished with parsley. Time to boil, a quarter ?of an hour for each pound, counting from the time the water boiLs the second time. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Roast. Put the lamb down to a clear, even fire. Baste it plentifully with good dripping, and twenty minutes before it is ready to serve, bring it nearer to the fire to brown it nicely. Place the lamb on a hot ?dish, pour over it a small quantity of gravy made from the contents of the dripping-pan, and send a little more to table in a tureen. Mint sauce and green peas, or boiled cauliflower, usually accxjmpanj' this dish. Time to roast, eighteen minutes to the pound. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for five ?or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Stewed. Put a leg of lamb, weighing about five pounds, into a deep baking-pan with two turnips, a carrot, a leek, a. clove of garlic, three tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and as much water as will cover it. Put it in a moderate oven, and let it remain for an hour after it begins to simmer. At the end of that time, put with it a pint of young green peas, a sprig of mint, and a small lump of sugar, and let it stew half an hour longer. Serve it on a hot dish, with the vegetables round it, a little of the gravy poured over, and more in a tureen. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Leg of. Stewed, with Bechamel, or White Sauce. Put a leg of lamb into a convenient-sized stewpan, and with it two or three veal-bones. Cover it with hot water, bring it gradually to the boil, and remove the scum carefully as it rises. Add two large carrots, two bunches of pai-sley, one bunch of thyme, and half a dozen peppercorns, and simmer vcr\' gently for an hour and a half. Take half a pint of the gravy, and mix it with half a pint of good cream. Add a table-spoonful of flour smoothly mixed with a little water, a bunch of parsley, a dozen small mushrooms, and a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil softly for an hoirr. Put the lamb on a hot dish, strain the bechamel over it, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Boiled cauliflower or carrots are an excellent accompaniment to this dish. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five persons. Lamb, Liver of. To Pry. Soak the liver in cold water for haK an hour. Cut it into thin slices, and boil these for ten minutes. Place them in a dry cloth to drain off the water, strew a little pepper on them, dredge flour over them, and fry in hot fat until they are brightly browned. If the flavour is Kked, an onion finely minced may be fried with them, or a few rashers of bacon. Garnish with parsley, and send good brown gravy to table -mth. the meat. Time, ten minutes to boil, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Lamb, Loin of. Braised. Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and cover it all over with slices of fat bacon. Put it into a braising-pan, or, failing this, a saucepan, as nearly as possible its own size, with a closelyfitting lid, and pour over it a pint of good stock. Add half a dozen young carrots, a bunch of young onions, a blade of mace, two bunches of parsley, one bunch of thyme, a teaspoonful of salt, and three or four peppercorns. Simmer very gently until the meat is done enough. Take it out, drain and dry it, reduce the sauce to a glaze, and brush this over the meat. Serve the lamb on a hot dish, and with it some green peiis, spinach, or asparagus. Time, two hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Loin of. Stewed. Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and put it into a saucepan, nearly its own size, with half a pint of good unseasoned stock, three ounces of butter, a dessert-spoonful of chopped mintleaves, the strained juice of half a lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take out the meat, boil the sauce quickly for a few minutes, brown the meat before the fire or on the gridiron, pour the sauce over it, and serve as hot as possible. The following sauce may be sent to table with it : Take one poundweight of the white part only of some onions, and chop them small ; then put them into a saucepan with three ounces of fresh butter, and shake the pan every now and then over the fire until the onions are quite soft. Pour over them half a pint of good stock nicely seasoned, mix them thoroughly, then pass the whole through a hair sieve ; let it boil up once more, add four table-spoonfuls of boiling cream, and ser -e at onee. The sauce must not boil after the creant is added. Loin of lamb is very good if simmered softly with the butter only. It should be turned over when it is half done, and will require from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour longer than if the broth, &c., were added. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Neck of. Boiled.. Plunge a neck of lamb into as much boiling water as will barely cover it. Let it boil for five LAM ( 359 ) LAM minutes, then pom- in an additional pint of cold water, bring it once more to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, and sinmaer very gently for one hour. Put the lamb on a hot dish, poTir over it half a pint of parsley sauce, and serve as hot as possible. Turnips and carrots should be sent to table with it. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Lamb Pie. A lamb pie may be made either of the neck, breast, or loin of lamb, and of these the breast will be found to be much the best. Take about two pounds of meat, cut it up into neat pieces, and sprinkle over these a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of finelyminced parsley. Put them in a pie-dish, take out some of the bones to stew down for gravy, and pour over them half a quarter gf a pint of cold water. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover it with the same, and bake in a moderate ovea. When the pie is sufficiently cooked, pour in a little good stock or meat jelly. Lamb pie is usually eaten cold. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Pudding. Line a shallow, thickrimmed basin with pastry about haK an inch in thickness, and lea.ve it half an inch over the edge. Take the large bones out of two pounds of a breast of lamb, cut it into convenient-sized pieces; season these lightly with pepper and salt, place them in layers in the pudding, and strew a table-spoonful of loose veal stuffing over each layer. Pour half a pint of water or mutton-broth over the whole, lay a pastrycover on the top, moisten the edge, and draw it over carefully. Dip a pudding-cloth into boiling water, dredge a little flom- over, tie the basin rather loosely in it, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for an hour and a half. Let it stand two or three minutas before being turned out. Place it on a hot dish, pour hali a pint of parsley sauce over it, and ser%'e at once. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Ragout, with Sorrel (a German recipe). Take two poimds of the breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently for a few minutes. Take it up, drain it, and cut it into small pieces about two inches square. Slice an onion, and put it into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a carrot, a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, another of basil, and two cloves. Let these steam softly for five or si.x minut?s ; dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and add half a pint of boiKng mutton gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and simmer until the sauce is as thick and smooth as cream. Put the pieces of lamb, into another stewj an, strain the sauce over them, and let them remain over a gentle fire until the meat is quite tender. Beat the yolks of two eggs, mix tiiem with a table-spoonfiil of sour cream, and stir gently into the .sauee, first taking out the meat and placing it on one side. Pick the stems from two or three handfuls of sorrel-leaves ; wash and drain them, and put them into a closely-covered stewpan with two ounces of butter, and let them steam i until soft; mix them with the sauce. When ready to serve, heat all together gently over the fire ; the sauce must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added. Time, altogether, an hour and a half. Probable cost of lamb, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Lamb, Roll of. Take three pounds of lean lamb, and mince it very finely with a pound of fat bacon. Mix with it a tea-spoonful of white pepper, the grated rind of a lemon, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a finely-minced shallot, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and salt according to taste. The quantity of siilt will depend upon the condition of " the bacon. When thoroughly mixed, roll the seasoned meat into a neat shape, something like a roly-poly pudding ; cover it with a thick fold of buttered paper, and place over this a coarse crust made of flour and water. Put it in a moderate oven, and when cooked enough, remove the paste and paper, and serve the roll of lamb on a hot dish, with tomato or cucimiber sauce round it, and green peas, spinach, or asparagus as an accompaniment. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Saddle of. A saddle of lamb is an elegant and excellent joint for a small party. Cover it with buttered papei', and lay it down to a clear fire. Baste it well, and when nearly cooked enough, remove the paper, di'edge a little flour over it, and baste it again until it is nicely browned. Mint sauce should be sent to table with it, and green peas, spinach, cauliflowers, or potatoes are very suitable as accompaniments. Time to roast, about two hours a quarter of an hour per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Lamb, Saddle of (a la Venison). This may be cooked in the way already described for leg of lamb {see Lamb, Leg of, a la Venison). Lamb, Saddle of. Boned, Rolled, and Braised. Take all the bones from a middle of lamb if possible, without injuring the upper part of the skin. Lay the meat on the table, skin dowTiwards, and spread over it a pound of good veal forcemeat. EoU it roimd and round, bind it securely, with plenty of tape, skewer slices of fat bacon over it, and put it into a braising-pan, with a pint and a half of white stock, three carrots, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three sticks of celery, and a dozen peppercorns. Simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take out the meat, drain it, and, without remo -ing the tape, place it between two dishes ; put a heavy weight upon the top, and let it remain until it is quite cold and firm. Cover it with a coating of white sauce ; let this stiffen, then brush the roll over with beaten egg, and cover it with light bread-raspings mixed with a tea-spoonful of grated Parmesan. Put the saddle in a moderate oven half an hour before it is wanted, that it may be heated through, and serve it on a hot dish. Garnish with dressed vegetables. Instead of beingegged and bread-crumbed, the saddle may, aiter pressing, be heated in a little of the stock LAM ( 360 ) LAM in which it was cooked, and served with dressed vegetables and allemande sauee. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Lamb, Sauee for. Mint sauce is usually served with lamb. To make it : Strip the leaves from some fresh young mint, wash and dry them well, and chop them as finely as possible. Put them into a tureen, and cover them with powdered sugar in the proportion of a table-s2:)oonful of sugar to one and a half of mint. Let these remain for half an hour, then pour over them three tahle-spoonf uls of vinegar. If after a trial this sauce is found to be too sweet, a less proportion of sugar can be used; but it has been very generally approved when prepared as above. The vinegar is sometimes strained from the mint-leaves before being sent to table. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Shoulder of. Put a shoulder of lamb down to a clear tire, and baste it hberaUy while roasting. A quarter of an hour before it is taken up dredge a little flour over it, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt upon it, and baste it with a little butter until it is nicely browned. Send a spoonful or two of the gravj' made from the joint in the dish with it, and the rest in a tureen. Mint sauce and green peas, salad, or potatoes generally accompany this dish. Time to roast, eighteen minutes for every pound. Probable cost, lOd. or Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of (a la Venison). The same method is to be followed as for leg of lamb {see Lamb, Leg of, a la Venison). Lamb, Shovilder of, Grilled. Take a shoulder of lamb, plunge it into, boiling water, let it boil three or four minutes, then draw it to the side of the fire and simmer it gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take it up, score it nearly to the bone in squares an inch apart, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it which have been seasoned with a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of popper, and flavoured with a table-spoonful of dried herbs, of which two parts should be parsley, one thyme, and one marjoram. Broil the meat over a clear fire until it is lightly browned, and send the following sauce to table with it : Mix half a salt-spoonful of cayenne with four ounces of pounded eugar. Add half a pint of white vinegar, and simmer over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Add a glass of claret, and simmer again for a quarter of an hour. Serve very hot in a tureen. Probable cost, lOd. per poimd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of, Stuffed and Braised. Take a shoulder of lamb, remove the bladeboncs without injuring the outer skin, but leave in the shankbone. Fill the cavity from which the bones have been removed with good veal forcemeat. Sprinkle the inner surface with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and draw together the edges of the shoulder with some strong thread. Put the Iamb into a braising-pan with slices of fat bacon under and above it. Put with it two onions, three or four sticks of celery, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a pint and a half of white stock. Braise the lamb for two hours over a slow fire. Take it up, drain it, boU the gravy down quickly, and glaze the meat. After glazing, serve with either cucumber, tomato, or sorrel sauce. Probable cost, lOd. or is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of, with Truflles. Take two shoulders of lamb, bone and trim them neatly, and sprinkle over each a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and two truffles cut into thin slices. Put the two shoulders together, press them closely, and tie them round securely with string. Place some slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a convenient-sized saucepan ; put the meat upon this, and then some more slices on the top; add two bunches of parsley, a very small bunch of thjTue, three caiTots, two onions, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, and a pint and a half of good stock. Cover the pan closely, and simmer very gently for two hours. At the end of that time take out the meat, remove the string, place it on a hot dish, boil the gravy quickly down to the consistence of sauce, and strain it over the lamb. Grarnish with slices of lemon, and serve as hot as possible. If truffles cannot be easily procured, they may be omitted, and the lamb cooked in the same way without them. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient foisix or seven persons. Lamb Steaks, Brown. Flatten the steaks, dip them into beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs flavoured and seasoned as follows: With four heaped table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs mix half a tea-spoonful of salt, quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon chopped a+ small as possible. Fry the chops in hot fat, thicken half a pint of nicely- seasoned gravy with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and add a glass of port and half a dozen stewed mushrooms. The latter may be omitted. Serve the steaks on a hot dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and garnish with fried sippets, or, if preferred, pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Send green peas or stewed cucumbers to table with these. Time, ten minutes to fiy the steaks. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Lamb Steaks Ragout. Take two pounds of lamb steaks, strew a little white pepper and powdered mace over them, and put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of liquid, half of which should be milk and half white stock. Let them simmer as softly as possible, without ceasing, for an hour and a quarter, or until tender. Just before serving mix a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder and a tea-spoonful of flour very smoothly with a table-spoonful of cold milk. Stir this to the sauce, add a salt-spoonful of salt, a wineglassful of boiling cream, and half a dozen white mushrooms ready stewed; serve immediately. Great care must be taken in preparing LAM (361 ) IiAM this dish that the meat is very gently simmered. If it is allowed to boil quickly it will be hard, dry, and unpalatable. When gently simmered it is excellent. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Stewed, with Mushrooms. Take the bones from a breast of lamb, season the meat with a little pepper and salt, and fry it in hot fat until it is lightly browned on both sides. Take it up, drain it from the fat, and put it into a stewpan with three or four thin slices of fat bacon, and as much white stock as will barely cover it. Add a poimd of buttonmushrooms, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, five or six chives, a tea-spoonful of salt, and six peppercorns. Let the hquid boil up, then diaw the pan to the side of the fire, and stew gently for an hour and a half. Take the lamb up, place it on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and strain the sauce to serve with it, first taking out the mushrooms to place round the meat. If preferred, half a ?dozen black trufiies cut into slices may be substituted for the mushrooms. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb Stewed with Peas. Take a breast or loin of lamb, weighing about two pounds. Cut it into neat chops, season them with a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and dredge a little flour over them. Put a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, into a frying-pan. Let it dissolve, then put in the chops, and let them remain until hghtly browned on both sides. Pour away the fat, add three-quarters of a pint of unseasoned boiling stock, a cos lettuce cut in long strips, a leaf of tarragon, two shallots fitnely minced, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, half a salt-spoonful of salt, and the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Put a pint of green peas freshly shelled into the saucepan, and simmer again until they are tender, which, if they are yoimg, will be in a quarter of an hour. Serve the jjeas on the dish with the lamb. Time, eight minutes to fiy the chops. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Stones and Sweetbread, To Fricassee. Soak three sweetbreads in cold water for three or four hours, and change the water once or twice during that time. Wash and skin some lamb stones, put both them and the sweetbreads into boiling water, and let them boil for ten or fifteen minutes. Throw them into cold water. Cut the lamb stones into sUces, press the sweetbreads into shape ; if large, they may be divided into halves. Dry them well, dredge a little flour over them, and fry them in boiling fat until they are brightly browned on both sides. A dozen large oysters may be fried with them. Pour off the fat, and add a pint of boiling gravy, half a hundred asparagus-tops cut into small pieces, a saltspoonful of salt, haK a salt-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and fom- tableepoonfuls of light wine. Simmer very gently for a few minutes. Beat the yolks of three eggs. Draw the gravy to the side of the fire, 24 let it cool for two or three minutes, mix it very gradually with the eggs, pour it back into the saucepan, and stir it until it tliickens. It must not boil after the eggs are put in. Serve as hot as possible, and garnish with slices of lemon. Probable cost, imcertain it varies greatly with the season., Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lamb Stove. Split a lamb's head in halves. Wash it thoroughly, blanch it, put it into a stewpan, with as much good stock as will completely cover it, and let it simmer very gently for an hour. Pick and wash three handfuls of spinach, put it with the stew, and add a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, two or three green onions, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Simmer for twenty minutes longer, and serve all on the same dish. The French stew the fry with the head, and serve the head in the middle, and the fry finely minced round it, the whole being covered with parsley sauce. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lamb Sweetbreads, Fried. Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or three hours, to draw out the blood, then boil them for ten minutes, to set them firm, and throw them into cold water for ten minutes more. Dry them in a soft cloth, and press them between two dishes. Dredge a little flour over them, brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinlde finely-grated bread-cnmibs upon them, and fry them in boiling fat until they are brightly browned all over {see Fry, To). A tea-spoonful of bread-raspings, such as are used for hams, may be strewn over the bread-crmnbs, to insxire the colour being good. Have ready half a pint of good brown gravy. Stir a glass of sherry into it, to flavour it, and pour this round, not upon, the sweetbreads. Garnish with watcrcresses. Time, altogether, about half an hour, exclusive of the soaking. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost, imcertain. Lamb Sweetbreads, Larded.- Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or three hours, and change the water frequently. Put them into a saucepan, and let them boil for flve or six minutes, to make them firm. Take them out, put them into cold water, and lard them closely. Place them in a stewpan, with as much good veal stock as will reach up to the larding, and put with them a sliced carrot, an onion, a stick of celery, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them simmer gently for ten minutes, and baste liberally during the time. Beat an egg, mix it with, half a pint of cream, add a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and two or tlu-ee grate? of nutmeg. Take the carrot, onion, and celeryout of the sauce, let it cool a minute, then add the egg and cream. If preferred, a quarter ?f a hundred asparagus-tops may be stewed in the sauce, instead of the carrot and celery. Stir eonstantly imtil quite hot ; but it must not boil after the egg and cream are added. A teaspoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, should be put in, if the stock is not ?' already seasoned. Serve the sweetbreads on a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and send LAM ( 362 ) LAM sorrel or tomato sauce to table, in a tureen. Asparagus or green peas form an excellent accompaniment. Time, half an hoiu". Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for thi-ee or foiupersons. Lamb Sweetbreads, Scolloped. Soak three lainb' s sweetbreads, and boil them for ten minutes. Throw them into cold water, draia and dry them, and cut them in thia slices. Season and flavour them with a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a grated nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, and fry them vith an ounce of butter tiU they are brightly browned. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour on them, pour over them half a piat of boiling cream, and add a dozen sliced mushrooms. Shake the pan over the fire for a few minutes, then draw it aside, and let it cool a little. Mix a tea-spoonful or two of the sauce with two weU-beaten yolks of eggs, and add them gradually to the rest. Stir over the fire agaia until quite hot, and serve in the middle of a rice border. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Target. The ribs or target of lamb consists of the neck and breast-joints left undivided. Saw off the chine-bone, and remove the flat bones which adhere to the meaty part of the neck. Partially divide the ribs, and coyer the joint with buttered paper. Lay it down before a clear fire, and let it remain until done enough. A few minutes before it is ready, remove the paper, and brown the meat nicely. Place it on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and mint sauce to table with it. Time to roast, about an hour. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb with Cucumber- Stew a breast, loin, or neck of lamb, until it is sufficiently tender to draw out the bones. Drain and trim it, brush it over with beaten egg, and strew seasoned bread-crumbs thickly upon it. Have ready some cucumber, prepared as follows : Procure two or three fresh young cucumbers. Take oft' the rind, remove the seeds, and cut them into pieces, lengthwise. Sprinkle salt and pepper upon them, and fry them in hot butter for five or six minutes. Put them into a stewpan, cover them with some of the liquid in which the lamb was stewed, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Broil the lamb {see Lamb, Broiled) ; place the cucumber and gravy on a hot dish, and serve the lamb upon them. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time, altogether, about two hours. Probable cost of lamb, lOd. or Is. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb with. Rice. Three-parts roast a loin, breast, or small fore-quarter of lamb. Cut it into neat pieces, strew a little salt and pepper over these, and lay them in a deep dish, with as much nicely-flavoured stock as wiU just cover the bottom of the dish. Boil half a pound of rice with a quart of 'vater, two ounces of butter, and a blade of mace, until the rice is quite tender, and the water absorbed. Add a little salt, and beat the rice thoroughly ; then mix with it the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Spread the rice over the lamb, and brush over it the well-beaten yolk of another egg. Put thfr meat into a moderate oven, untU it is hghtly browned all over. Time to roast the lamb, twelve minutes to the pound. Probable cost,, lamb, lOd. or Is. per pound ; rice, 4d. per pound. Sufficient, a small quarter of lamb for six or seven persons. Lamb's Feet. Clean, and wash well, and scald six lamb's feet. Remove the shankbones very carefully, so as not to break the skin, then let them soak for two or three hours in cold water. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, with as much cold water as will barely cover them, and two table-spoonfuls of strained lemonjuice. Let them boil for ten or fifteen minutes,, then throw them into cold water, and when they are quite cool cut off the bones from the cleft of the foot, and the little piece of hau- that lies in it. Afterwards, stew them for three hours in some white stock, and with them an onion, a bunch of parsley, and thjone, three or four mushi-ooms, half a dozen pepijercoms, a blade of mace, and a slice of lean ham. Strain the sauce, thicken it with floui- and butter, and add haK a pint of new milk. Let the feet boil up once more in it, and add, the last thing, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Serve on a hot dish, and send peas or asparagus to table. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lamb's Feet (another way). Prepare and stew the feet as in the last recipe. When quite tender, remove the bones, roll the feet, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them. Or, if preferred, spread a mixture prepared as follows over a dish, let it get quite hot in the oven, then place the rolled feet upon it, and serve them di-y. In either case, sauce (Robert or supreme sauce) should be sent to table in a tureen. For the mixture : Tak& four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated breadcrumbs, season them with pej per and salt, rub into them a piece of butter the size of a large egg, and mix with them, first, a table-spoonful of grated cheese, and afterwards the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Time, three hours to stew the feet, ten minutes to fry them. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lamb's Fry. Take a pound or a pound and a half of lamb's fry. "Wash it thoroughly in cold water, then set it in a saucepan, cover it with cold water ; and let it boil for three or four minutes. Take it out, drain and diy it in a cloth. Mix a tea-spoonful of flour very smoothly with a little cold water, and add to it a small pinch of salt and pepper, six tea-spoonfuls of water, and a well-beaten egg. Dip each piece of the fry into this mixture, then fr ' it in three ounces of hot dripping until it is brightly browned on both sides, - -ithout being at all burnt. Mix a table-spoonful of flour, very smoothly, with the fat in the frjnng-pan, imtil it is lightly browned. Add sufficient boiling water to bring it to the thickness of cream, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a Httle browning, if necessary. A few mushrooms, or a little chopped onion, maj be added, if liked. If preferred, the fry may bo coolced without the batter, or beaten egg and bread-criunbs may be LAM ( 363 ) LAM substituted for it. Time, about twelve minutes. The liver should be put in two or three minutes after the rest. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Lamb's Pry (a German recipe). Soak the fry in cold water for haK an hour. Drain it, put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it, and add two or thi-ee green onions, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, and a small sprig of thyme. Simmer very gently for an hour and a half, then pour both gravy and fry into a bowl, and let all get cold together. Drain and dry the meat, cut it into neat slices, di]) half of these into beaten egg, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, and, a few minutes before serving, fry them in hot butter until they are lightly browned on both sides. Strain the gravy, put it into a saucepan, with an ounce of fresh butter rolled in flour, a finely-minced shallot, three table- spoonfuls of finely-grated breadcrumbs, a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a pinch of pepper. Simmer for half an hour. Stir in all the meat which is not intended to be fried first, cutting it as small as possible, and, while it is heating, fry the sHces of liver, &c., in fat. Put these in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, jDour the sauce into the centre, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with thin rashers of fried bacon. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Lamb's Head and Mince. Scald, scrape, and wash the head thoroughly, and put both it and the fry into a stewpan, with a large onion stuck with three cloves, two bunches of parsley, a bunch of thyme, a carrot, a turnip, a bay-leaf, half a dozen peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, and two quarts of cold water. Let them boil up quickly, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer gently for an hour. Divide the head, take out the tongue and brains, and fold the two halves in a cloth to dry. Mince the heai-t, liver, half of the lights, the brains, and the tongue (first taking off the skin), very finely. Season with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and three or four grates of a nutmeg; put the meat into a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of the strained gravj' thickened with thi-ee ounces of butter rolled in flour, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Cover the saucepan closely and simmer gently for half an hour ; stir every now and then, to prevent the contents sticking. Brush the head over with beaten egg, sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs over it, and bake in a moderate oven, or place it before the fire, and let it remain until lightly browned, basting liberally with good dripping. Place the head in the middle of a hot dish, put the mince round, and garnish with parsley. As a variation, the brains may be made into cakes, instead of being mixed with the mince, and the liver fried with a few slices of bacon. The two may then be placed alternately round the dish. The juice of a lemon should" be squeezed over the head at the last moment. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lamb's Head, To Prepare Brains for. Wash and clean the brains thoroughly, , let them lie in cold water for half an hour, then boil them in vinegar and water for i six or eight minutes. After this they may be I either minced wdth the fry, or cut 'into thin 1 slices and placed between the halves of the head, or chopped small and mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and about a square inch of thin lemon-rind, ; finely grated. Work all weU together with a \ well-beaten egg, have ready a pan of boiling ; fat, drop the mixture into it from a spoon in small round cakes, and fry them to a bright brown colour. Drain the fat thoroughly from them before serving. Time, three or four minutes to fry the cakes. Lamb's Pluck {sec Lamb's Fry). I Lamprey. This not very wholesome, but rare and rich fish, was a great favourite in ancient times, and is well known to the student of English history, as it was an attack of indi gestion, brought on by eating of it too freely, which caused the death of Henry 1. Lamprey is generally served either stewed or potted, and cannot be eaten too fresh. It requires twice as much stewing as an eel, and should be partially boiled before it is either broiled or fried. Lamprey, Potted. Take a dozen lampreys of moderate size. Empty them, and cleanse them thoroughly from slime, by washing them in hot water, cut off the heads, tails, and gills, and take out the cartilage, and a string on each side of it, down the back. Drj' them well, and let them drain for several hours before proceeding further. Pound half a dozen blades of mace and a dozen cloves to a fine powder. Mix with them two ounces of white pepper, and three ounces of salt, and sprinkle this seasoning inside, and all over the lampreys. Curl the fish round, and lay them in a stone jar. Pour over them half a pound of melted beef suet, and two pounds of clarified butter. Tie three or four folds of paper over the top of the jar, and bake in a moderate oven. Keep looking at them whilst baking, and as the oil works up remove it. Lay them in a cool dry place, in the same jar in which they were cooked. When wanted for use, do not send the old butter to table with them, but put as many as are required into a fresh jar, let them heat in the oven, then cover them with fresh butter. They will keep good for four or five months. Time, three hours to bake. Probable cost, uncertain, lampreys being seldom ofltered for sale. Lamprey, Roasted. Take a large lamprey. Wash it thoroughly in warm water, to LAM (364) LAN remove the slime. Open and empty it, cut off the head, tail, and gills. Take out the cartilage and a string on each side of it down the back, and fill it with a forcemeat made of four ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs, two ounces of fat bacon, chopped small, two table- spoonfuls of minced parsley, a pinch of powdered mace, half a saltspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, and the unbeaten yolk of an egg. Sew the body of the lamprey securely, to prevent the forcemeat escaping, and roU it round and round. Fasten it with sUver skewers, and bind it with twine ; put it into a stewpan, cover it with water, and let it simjner very gently for a quarter of an hour. Take it out, drain and dry it, rub it all over with dripping, fasten it on the spit, roast it before a clear fire, and baste it plentifully. When it is nearly done enough take off the skin, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, strew bread-crumbs thickly upon it, and let it remain until nicely browned. Serve it on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to table in a tureen : Bone and poimd two anchovies. Mrs them with two table-spoonfuls of chopped capers, and stir them into a quarter of a pint of good melted butter. Add a table-spoonful of the vinegar with which the capers were covered ; let the sauce boil up once, and serve immediately. Time to roast, forty minutes. Probable cost, imcertain, lampreys being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for four or five Lamprey, Stewed. Rub a moderatesized lamprey with salt, wash it in warm water to cleanse it from slime, cut off its head, tail, and gills, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and cut it into pieces about three inches in length. Put these pieces into a stewpan with three or four small onions, a dozen buttonmushrooms, a bay-leaf, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a small piece of thin lemonrind, three-quarters of a pint of boiling stock or water, and a glass of sherry. A larger proportion of wine may be used, if liked. Simmer very gently until done enough. Thicken the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil for a few minutes longer. Take out the fish, place it on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it, and strain the sauce upon it. Garnish with cut lemon. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, uncertain, lampreys being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lancashire Hot Pot. Take three pounds of the best end of a neck of mutton, four mutton kidnej-s, a score of oysters, four onions, and three pounds of potatoes. Divide the mutton into chops, cut off about two inches and a half from the end, and trim away all superfluous fat. Place a layer at the bottom of a brown earthenware stewpot, (called in Lancashire a "hot-pot dish,") and put over the mutton a layer of sliced kidneys, an onion cut into thin slices, four or five oysters, and half a pound of sliced potatoes. Sprinkle a saltBpoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of curry-powder over them ; then repeat the previous performance until the dish is full. Place whole potatoes at the top, and pour in the oyster Hquor and half a pint of water. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and bake imtil the potatoes at the top are brown and crisp, but are cooked through. When ready to serve, pom- half a pint of boiling gravy over the meat, and send it to table in the dish in which it was baked. Pin a napkin neatly round the dish for the sake of appearance. The oven must not be very hot, or the gravy will be dried up. If there is any danger of this, add a little more. Time, three ho\irs and a half to bake. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lancashire Oatcake {see Oatcake, Lancashire). Lancashire Raised Pie. Take about two pounds of whatever meat is preferred (pork is most generally used), cut the lean into thin slices, and season each piece slightly with a httle pepper and salt. Take away all the bones, and stew them, with a pint of water, half a small tea-spoonful of salt, and a pinch of pepper, for two hours, then strain the gravy and put it aside for use. It should when cold be a stiff jelly. Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely. Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with it, and melt it over the fire in half a pint of boiling water. It will take ten or fifteen minutes to melt. Put a pound and a half of flour into a bowl. Pour the boiling lard and water into the middle of it, and mix thoroughly, first with a spoon and afterwards with the hands. Knead to a stiff paste, cut off a piece large enough to form the lid of the pie, put the rest on the table and mould it with the hands to the form of a cone. Flatten the sides with the palms of the hands, and, when quite smooth, press down the top of the cone with one hand, and with the other make the sides equally round. Great expedition is necessary, as the excellence of the pie depends to a considerable extent on its being placed in the oven while still warm. Put in the lean meat, strew a little minced fat over each layer, and press it closely until the moiild is full. Egg the edges, roll out the cover, and place it on the pie. Make a small hole in the centre, through which the gravy can afterwards be put in. Ornament the pie with leaves of pastry, or in any other way to please the fancy, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a good oven. When the pie is done enough pour a little of the jelly gravy (melted) through the hole in the top. Lancashire raised pies are much more easily made iii moulds ; and until the cook has acquired expertness in their manufacture, she will do well to confine herself to those of small size. Beef suet is better than either butter or lard for this pastry, but if either of these are used an extra ounce wiU be required for the same quantity of flour and water. Time to bake, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Landrail, or Corn Crake, To Roast. This delicious bird, which is in full season at the end of August and the beginning of September, should be trussed like a snipe, with the head under the wing, and a skewer passed through the thigh and the body, to keep the legs straight. Fasten two or three slices of bacon over the breast, and roast before a clear fire Dish it on fried bread-crumbs, or, if LAB ( 366 ) LAB preferred, omit these and pour a small quantity of brown gravy into the dish with it, and send more to table in a tureen. Bread sauce should also be sent to table with it. Time to roast, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, corn crakes being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, three or four for a dish. Lard and Butter Pastry. Stir a pound of lard into two pounds of flour, and roll it out. Roll out half a pound of butter on the board, and dredge a little flour upon it. Lift the floured butter on the pastry, fold them up together, and roU out once. Pastry is better when made in a cool place, and should be rolled out, if convenient, on a marble slab. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. lOd. for this quantity. Lard Crust {see Crust, Lard). Lard, Melting. Take the fat from the inner part of a pig, newly killed. Cleanse it from skin and blood, cut it into thin slices, and put it into an earthenware jar ; place it in a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer very gently. Keep pouring the fat off as it dissolves, either into drj' jars or into bladders which have been well cleaned. The smaller these are the better, as the lard is liable to spoil as soon as it is exposed to the air. Store in a cool, dry place. If jars are used, cover them securely with bladder before putting them away. The last drainings of the fat will not be so fine as that which is poured off first. Lard Pastry. Mix two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder and a salt-spoonful of salt with two pounds of fine flour. Put a pound and a half of lard into the centre, stir it briskly with a knife, and keep pouring in cold water very gradually until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. EoU the pastry out, and touch it as little as possible with the fingers. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost of lard, lOd. per pound. Lard, Pork {fee Pork Lard). Lard. Preserving Unmelted. Take the fat irom the inside of a newly-killed pig, rub it all over with salt, and let it lie for two days. Drain it, and put it into salt and water sufficiently strong to float an egg. Change this occasionally in warm weather. Lay the leaf into fresh water for two or three hours before using it. Lard, To. Larding is sometimes spoken of as one of the most difficult operations of cookery, and yet it is exceedingly easy. It is a great improvement to all dry, lean meats, and requires to be neatly done in order to look well, but for this a little practice is all that is necessary. It is not at all unlike wool-work. Cut the bacon (which for white meat should be cured without saltpetre, for fear of reddening the flesh) into narrow strips of equal length and thickness. For poultry and game these should be two inches long, the eighth of an inch thick, and a quarter of an inch broad; but for fillets of beef and loins of veal they should be two inches long and the third of an inch square. Put each strip of bacon, which i+ called a lardom, into a larding needle. On the point of this take up as much of the flesh as win hold the lardom firmly, draw the needle through, and part of the bacon with it, leaving about half an inch at each side. Repeat the process as evenly as possible, and at equal distances, until the meat requiring to be larded is covered with these chequered rows. Generally speaking, the breasts only of pheasants. LARDING NEEDLE. chickens, turkeys, and partridges are larded, and the backs and thighs of hares. When the flesh is soft, as in the case of poultry, the part to be larded should be dipped for a moment into boiling water, which wiU give firmness to it. Lardoms. Lardom is the name given to the strip of bacon which is to be used for larding. Bacon intended for this purpose should be cured, as has been said in the preceding recipe, without saltpetre, or it will give a pink tinge to white meats. Lark Pastry (to be eaten cold). Take a dozen larks, empty them, cut off their heads, legs, and necks, and put them into a saucepan with a few trimmings of veal, if veal trimmings are at hand, a sprig of parsley, a very small sprig of thyme, a sliced carrot, and a pint of water. Let them simmer very gently until the liquid is considerably reduced, and will jelly. Mince the livers of the larks finely, and mix them with half a pound of lean veal, half a poimd of sausage-meat, four ounces of unsmoked bacon, three table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a dessert- spoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a little salt. The quantity must be regulated by the condition of the bacon. Work up half of this forcemeat with a table-spoonful of light wine, and fill the larks with it. Line a mould or pie-dish throughout with a good stiff crust. Put a layer of loose mincemeat at the bottom, lay the larks upon it, and fill up the empty spaces with mincemeat. Place three or four slices of bacon on the top, put on the cover, fasten the edges securely, and cut a slit in the middle through which the gravj- may afterwards be poured. Bake in a moderate oven. When the pastry is sufficiently baked, strain the liquor into it through the hole in the top, then cover it with a small ornament, and let it get quite cold before cutting it ; indeed, it will be better if the dish is kept a day or two before being used. Time to bake, from an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost of larks, Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for six or eight persona. LAB ( 366 ) LAR ' Lark Pie (to be eaten hot). Take a dozen larks, empty them, cut off their heads, necks, and legs, roll them in floirr, fill them with a forcemeat made of foiu- table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, finely minced, a small saltspoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of pepper. Place three or four slices of bacon and three or four sKces of lean beef at the bottom of a pie-dish, put the larks upon them, and strew over them half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of parsley, a shallot cut into small pieces, and a little salt, if required, but this will depend upon the condition of the bacon. Pour half a pint of weak stock over the whole, line the edges with a good crust, cover the dish with the same, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Probable cost of larks, Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lark PiQ (another way). Take a dozen larks, pluck them, cut off their heads, necks, and legs, and take the gizzards only from the insides. Fry them lightly, and with them half a pound of lean veal, and half a pound of ham cut into pieces about two inches square. Put the veal and ham at the bottom of a pie-dish,, place the larks upon them, and strew over them a tea-spoonful of salt, or less if the bacon be very salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a finely-minced shallot, and a dozen small- mushrooms cut into thin shoes. Thicken half a pint of good stock with a table-spoonful of flour, add a table-spoonful of ketchup, let it boil for two or three minutes, then pour it over the larks, &c. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, cover with the same, and bake in a good oven for about an hour and a haH. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient ior five or six persons. Larks (a la Macedoine). Pick and clean two dozen larks, cut off their necks and heads, and fiU them with a forcemeat made of their livers, finely minced, three ounces of veal, three ounces of fat bacon, a salt-spoonful of salt (if this be necessary), a quarter of a toaspoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Pound the forcemeat well before putting it into the birds. Lay the larks into a deep dish, pour over them a pint of good gravy, and bake in a moderate oven. Dish them round mashed potatoes, and garnish with carrots and turnips, boiled and cut into small dice. Pour the gravy over, and serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per dozen. Larks, Broiled. Pick and clean a dozen larks, cut oft" their heads and legs, truss them firmly, rub them over with beaten egg, and strew bread-crumbs and a small pinch of salt over them. Broil them over a clear fire, and serve them on toasted bread. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Larks, Croustade of. Bone a dozen and a half larks, cut off the legs and heads, open, season them shghtly, and put a small piece of veal forcemeat and a truffle into each bird, roll the larks up to a ball-shape, put them into a pie-dish, season them slightly with salt and pepper, and pour three ounces of clarified butter over them ; then bake in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour. Dish them in a fried bread croustade prepared as follows : Cut the crust from a stale loaf, about eight inches long, scoojj it out in the centre, and fry it in very hot lard till it is brightly browned ; drain and dry it, and stick it in the middle of the dish, with a paste made of white of egg and flour. Before putting the larks into it, put it in the oven for a few minutes to get hot. Garnish with stewed mushrooms and aspic jelly, and send a pint of good bro\vn sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Larks in Batter Pudding. Mix six table-spoonfuls of flour very smoothly with four- table-spoonfuls of water, fom- well-beaten eggs, and a pint of milk. Add a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Grease a pie-dish thickly, pour in the batter, and put into it half a dozen larks, which have been picked, cleaned, and trussed, with a slice of bacon fastened round each. Bake in a good oven. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for five or six persons. Larks, Potted. Pluck and clean a dozen larks, cut off the heads, necks, and legs, open and flatten them, and season each one with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Arrange them closely in a potting-pan, place a quarter of a pound of butter upon them, and bake them in a moderate oven. Take them out, pour off the butter, and put them in a cool, dry place until wanted. Time, twenty-five minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for three or four persons. Larks, Puffs of (see Puffs of Larks). Larks, Roast. Pick and clean half a dozen larks, cut off the legs, and pick out the gizzards with the point of a knife. Season the birds lightly with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and strew a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley over each ; brush them with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle bread-crumbs upon them, run them upon a long skewer, fasten each end of this to the spit, and put them down to a clear fire. Baste plentifully with butter, and strew more bread-crumbs over them whUe roasting, until within five minutes of their being done enough, then leave them to brown. Dish them on fried bread-crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Time to roast, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for two persons. Larks, Roast (another way). Prepare the larks as in the last recipe. Instead, however, of brushing them over with egg and dipping them in bread-crumbs, cover each bird entirely with a slice of fat bacon, and roast as before. Be careful that the larks are not sufficiently near each other to touch when on the skewer. Garnish with watercresses, and send LAR ( 3G7 ) LEE gravy to tatle in a tureen. Time, about ten minutes to roast. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for two persons. Larks, Stewed. Pick and clean a dozen larks ; open them, and fry them with two ounces of fat bacon, cut into small pieces, until they are lightly browned ; dredge a little lioui- over them, and add half a pottle of mushrooms cut into slices, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and as much salt as is required ; this will be regulated by the condition of the bacon. Pour over them a wine-glassful of stock and another of sherry, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Add a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, boil for a minute, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with toasted sippets. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Larks Stewed (a German recipe). Pick and clean a dozen larks ; open and flatten them, and season them slightly with a little salt and pepper; put them into a stowpan with three ounces of clarified butter and half a dozen juniper-berries, and let them remain until they are lightly browned. Pour over them three table-spoonfuls of stock or water, simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve very hot. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four persons. Laver, To Dress. Laver is a plant which grows upon rocks near the sea-shore, and is valued on account of its anti-scorbutic qualities. It is generally boiled down to a jelly as soon as it is found, then potted, and sent to distant places for use. To dress it, put a pound into & bright stewpan with three ounces of fresh butter, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon or a Seville orange, and stir it with a silver fork until quite hot. Serve it as hot as possible, either over a lamp or a hot-water dish. The taste for laver is an acquired one. Instead of the butter a little gravy may be put into the pan, but lemon-juice should never be omitted. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost, uncertain. Leamington Pudding. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of fine flour and a quarter of a pound of sugar, which has been well rubbed upon the rind of a lemon, and then powdered ; add a tiny pinch of salt, a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs and the whites of two, whisked to a firm froth. Butter three round pudding-moulds of different sizes, poar in the mixtirre, and bake in a quick oven. Serve the puddings one on the top of the other, the largest at the bottom, and spread a layer of good jam between each. Wine-sauce should bo sent to table with this pudding. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Leche Crema. Put six ounces of ratafia ?cakes at the bottom of a shallow dish. Mix the well-beaten yolks of three and the white of one egg with a pint and a half of milk and two or three drops of ratafia flavouring ; add four table-spoonfuls of flour and two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and stir the whole over the fire for a few minutes, until the flour is dissolved and the milk begins to thicken. Let it cool, then strain it over the cakes very gently, or they will rise to the top. Serve cold. Strew a few hundreds and thousands over the top, or, if preferred, ratafias, about an inch apart. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Leeks. This, the Allium Porrum, is a plant highly valued for culinary purposes. Its flavour is much milder than that of the onion, or any other species of Alliuni. In Wales, the leek has long been a special favourite. It is ordinarily sown in spring, and is ready for use in the following winter. Attention has long been given to its growth, and some of the varieties exhibit in a remarkable degree the eftects of cultivation in increased size and delicacy. Leeks and Potato Soup, Maigre. Prepare and fry the leeks as in the recipe for Leek Soup (which see). Season them with a tea-spoonful of pepper and half a tea-spoonful of salt, and pour over them three pints of boiling water. Let them simmer for half an hour. Then put with them four large mealy potatoes, peeled and cut into slices. Boil until the potatoes are sufficiently soft to crush easily. Stii- all well together, and serve with dice of fried bread. Leeks, Boiling of. Leeks are generally used in soups, &c. If served alone, take them when very young, trim off the root, the outer leaves, and the green ends, and cut the stalks into six-inch lengths. Tie them in bundles, put them into boiling water, with a dessertspoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar, and let them boil imtil quite tender. Drain them, and serve like asparagus, on hot toast, pouring white sauce or melted butter over them. Time to boil, thi-ee-quartcrs of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. per bundle. Sufficient for five or six persons. Leeks, Flammish. Pub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flom- ; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, the yolks of two eggs, and three-quarters of a pint of water. Slix thoroughly. Divide this pastiy into four parts, and roll these out into rounds about six inches in diameter. Have ready a dozen leeks, prepared as follows : Wash them in two or three waters, trim off the root and the outer leaves, strew a table -spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a grated nutmeg over them, and pour over them half a pint of cream. Let them soak for half an hour. Put the rounds of pastry on a baking-dish ; fill each one vnth. the leeks, draw up the sides to the centre, fasten them secinely together, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an iiour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d, Sufficient for half a dozen persons. LEE LEM Leeks, Plammish (another way). Wash, blanch, and cut into pieces of half an inch, a dozen middle-sized leeks. Put half a pint of cream into a bowl, and stir in the leeks, with a seasoning of nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Have ready one pound of short paste, which divide into four equal parts. Roll out each part in a circular form, and about the size of a pudding-plate ; cover the centre with the leek mixture. Gather up the sides of the paste, so that each shall appear like a puckered purse; and fasten with a small round piece of paste wetted, and gently fixed on the centre. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. Leeks, Gingerbread of {see Gingerbread Leek). Leeks, Porridge of, Welsh {see Welsh Leek Porridge). Leeks, Soup of. Trim off the root and outer leaves from eight fine leeks. Wash them quite free from grit, divide them lengthwise into quarters, and cut them into pieces an inch long. Put these into boiling water for five minutes, then drain them, and fry them in a little hot butter till they are lightly bro\vned. Pour over them two quarts of good stock, season with two tea-spoonfuls of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and simmer gently for an hour. Place a roll cut into small pieces at the bottom of the tnreen. Thicken the soup with three ounces of flour, first mixed smoothly with a little stock, and afterwards added to the rest. Boil a quarter of an hour longer, and serve as hot aa possible. If preferred, half a pint of cream can be substituted for the oatmeal. Probable cost, 5d. per quart. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Leeks, Soup of (commonly called Cock-aLeekie). -Wash a dozen leeks; trim away the roots, the outer leaves, and the dark green ends, and divide them into pieces an inch long and a quarter of an inch thick. Put them into boiling water for four or five minutes, then drain them, and lay half of them into a stewpan with two quarts of good stock and a large fowl, trussed as for boiling. Skim carefully, and simmer gently for half an hour. At the end of that time put in the remainder of the leeks, and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer. Skim carefully, and season, if required, with pepper and salt. Cut the fowl into neat pieces, place these in a tureen, and pour the soup, which should be very thick with leeks, over them. This soup is excellent for any one suffering from cold. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Sufficint for six or eight persons. Leicester Pie. Take three pounds of pork, fat and lean together. Cut it into pieces two inches long and an inch and a half wide, season these with pepper and salt and powdered sage, and put them aside. Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of flour. Stir into it -svith a knife four ounces of lard, dissolved in half a pint of hot water, roll it out, line a greased tin mould with part of it, put in the pieces of pork, place the lid on the top, and fasten the edges securely. Bake in a moderate oven. The greatest expedition should be used, as this pie should be put into the oven while it is still warm. Time to bake, an hous and three-quarters. Probable cost, 2s. lOi Sufficient for six or seven persons. Leicester Pudding. Mix a heaped teaspoonful of carbonate of soda and a small pinch of salt with a pound of flour. Add the fiiielyminced rind of half a lemon, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, four ounces of finely-shred beef suet, a table-spoonful of sugar, and half a pound of stoned raisins. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, stir into them a pint of milk, put the mixture into a buttered mould, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Send wine or brandy sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two hours and a half. Probable cost, la. Sufficient for four or five persons. Leicestershire Medley Pie. Take a pound each of cold fat bacon, cold roast beef or pork, and cored apples. Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good crust made of dripping or lard. Fill it with the meat and apples in alternate layers, and season each layer with a Uttle pepper, salt, and powdered ginger. Pour half a pint of ale over all, place the lid on the top, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Leipzig Pancakes. Mix half a poimd of flour and half a tea-spoonful of salt very smoothly with the well-beaten yolks of four and the whites of two eggs; add gradually four ounces of pounded sugar, four ounces of clarified butter, a table-spoonful of fresh yeast dissolved in three-quarters of a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table -spoonful of spirits of wine. Mix all thoroughly. Cover the batter, and put it in a warm place to rise. Roll it out thin, and fry it in small rounds. Serve the rounds in pairs, with a little jam between each pair. Time, half an hour to rise ; a few minutes to fry. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Leman's Biscuits. Rub two ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of fine dry flour, add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a piece of volatile salt the size of a bean. Work the whole iuto a stiff paste with a little lukewarm milk, and leave it for two or three hours. At the end of that time roll it out, divide it into small biscuits of different shapes, prick them with a fork, and bake upon buttered tins in a quick oven. Be careful not to let them colour in baking. Time to bake, from ten minutes to a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a dozen and a haK cakes. Lemon. The acid juice of the common lemon is much employed in the manufacture of the favourite beverage lemonade. It is also an. important article of ship stores, as a preventive of scurvy. Lemon-peel the rind of the fruit separated from the pulp is in demand for flavouring. The exportation of lemons from, the southern districts of Europe, where they are grown, is very considerable. Sicily alone exports every year 30,000 chests, each chest containing 440 lemons. I.EM ( 369 ) LEM Lemon and Liver Sauce for Fowls. Wash and score the liver of the fowl, and boil it for five minutes ; drain it, and pound it in a mortar with two or three spoonfuls of good gravy. Pare otf the thin outer rind of a lemon, and mince it finely ; remove the thick white skin, cut the pulp into small pieces, mix with it a tea-spoonful of the minced rind, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and stir the whole into half a pint of good melted butter. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but it must not boil, for fear the butter should oil. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lemon and Orange Candied Rings for Garnislling {?see Orange and Lemon Candied Rings). Lemon and Orange Juice for Colds [see Orange and Lemon Juice). Lemon and Rhubarb Jam. Rhubarb jam is very much improved if flavoiired with lemon-rind. Wipe the rhubarb very dry if old, it must be skinned cut it into small pieces, and weigh it. AUow a pound of sugar, the rind of half a large lemon, chopped small, and half an ounce of bitter almonds to each pound and a quarter of rhubarb ; boil all together very gently, until the sugar is dissolved, and keep stirring, to prevent burning ; the jam may then be allowed to boil more quickly. When done, put it into jars, cover with oiled and egged or gummed papers, and store in a cool, dry place. Rhubarb jam should be used quickly, as it does not keep weU. Time to boil the fruit, reckoning from the time when the sugar is dissolved, and it simmers equally all over, an hour for young rhubarb, an hour and a half for old. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficicnt, a pint of sliced rhubarb for a pound of jam. Lemon Bisctlits. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, then crush it to powder. Work three ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of fine flour, add the powdered sugar, and the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. When thoroughly mixed, add last of all the whites of the eggs, whisked to a firm froth ; stir all briskly for two or three minutes, then drop the cakes upon a baking-sheet, a little apart from each other, and bake in a moderate oven. Two or three ounces of currants may be added, if liked. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a dozen and a half biscuits. Lemon Blancmange. Take the thin rind of two fresh lemons, and put it into a basin with a quarter of a pint of water, the strained juice, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, and let it stand for an hour or more. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in a quarter of a pint of water, and when nearly cold mix it with the lemon-water. Add the yolks of three eggs, beaten up with half a pint of thick cream, put the mixture into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling water, and stir it over the fire for ten minutes ; then pour it out, stir it again until nearly cold, to prevent it skinning, and put it into a wet mould. Time to prepare, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for a pint of blancmange. Lemon Blancmange (another way). Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of a lemon and two ounces of ground rice, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens. Add some custard made with half a pint of milk and the well-beaten, yolks of three eggs, and mix both custard and ground rice thoroughly ; sweeten with a quarter of a pound of sugar, add half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine, dissolved in another half -pint of miUc, and when nearly cold stir in the strained, lemon- juice. Put the mixture into an oiled mould, and turn it out when wanted. Time an hour to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Lemon Brandy (for flavouring custards and sweet dishes). Take the thin rind of half a dozen fresh lemons, and put them in a bottle with a pint of brandy. Let them infuse for six weeks, then strain the liquid, and put it in small bottles, cork and seal secm-ely, and put aside for use. Probable cost, lemons, Id. each. Sufficient for a pint of lemon brandy. Lemon Brandy (another way) . See Brandy, Lemon. Lemon Bread Pudding, Baked. Grate six ounces of the stale crumb of bread very finely, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of sugar and the grated rind of a fresh lemon ;. add a quarter of a pound of butter, and stir all over the fire for a few minutes. Let it cool then add the strained juice of the lemon, and four well-beaten eggs, omitting the whites of two. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Bread Pudding, Boiled. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely, add a pinch of salt, six ounces of finely grated bread-crimibs, a table-spoonful of flour three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the finely minced rind and strained jmce of a lemon, half a pint of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Mix thoroughly. Butter a plain pudding-mould rather thickly, ornament the inside with raisins, candied fniit, or sliced lemon-rind, pour in the pudding, cover it with a floured cloth, plungeit into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out on a dish, and send to table a sauce made as follows, pomed round it : Put the thin rind and juice of a lemon in half a pint of water, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and simmer gently over the fire for twenty minutes ; add two or three drops of cochineal and a table-spoonful of gin, and it is ready to serve. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lemon Bread Puddings, Boiled. (another way). Mix half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, with a quarter of a pound of finely-shred suet or beef marrow. Add a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of a fresh lemon, a table-spoonful of flour, and three well-beaten eggs. Beat for ten minutes. Divide the mixture into half a dozen balls, tie these in smaE floured cloths, plunge them into boiling water, and boil quickly. Serve with brandy sauce. LEM (370) LEM Time to boil, an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for foiu- or five persons. LeniOll Cake. Beat the yolks of sLs eggs thoroughly. Add haK a pound of sifted sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water. Beat all together for some minutes. Dredge in gradually six ounces ot flour, add the strained lemonjuice and the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Mix thoroughly, put the mixture into buttered tins, and bake immediately. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a pint mould. Lemon Cake, Rich. Beat three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter to a cream. "Work into it six ounces of dried flour, and add three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, the grated rind of two lemons, and the wellbeaten yolks of nine eggs. \Vhen thoroughly mixed, stir in the white of six eggs, beaten to a firm froth, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Put the mixtui-e into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, nearly an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Lemon Calf's Foot Jelly [see CaK's Foot Jelly, Lemon). Lemon Caramel. Crush half a poimd of loaf sugar to powder. Put it into a saucepan, place it on a gentle fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes slightly coloured. Draw it near the side, and add six or seven drops of the essence of lemon the quantity to be regulated "by taste. Pour the mixture upon an oiled baking-gheet; mark it in squares with the back of a knife, and let it get quite cold, when it will easily snap. Time, about half an hoiu-. Probable cost, 3d. Lemon Cheesecakes. Rub the peel off two large lemons with half a pound of loaf sugar. Crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with half a pound of clarified butter, add six wellbeaten eggs, five table-spoonfuls of cream, and the strained juice of one of the lemons. Stir aU together over a slow fire until the mixture begins to thicken. Let it get cold. Line patty-pans with good puff paste rather more than fill them and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for thi'ce dozen cheesecakes. Lemon Cheesecakes (another way). Simmer together over a slow fire a pound of loaf sugar, four ounces of fresh butter, four well-beaten eggs, and the juice and finelyminced rind of two lemons. Stii- one way, and when the sugar is dissolved, and the mixture is smooth and of the consistency of honey, pour it into a bowl. When cool, it is ready to put into the patty -pans. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient ior two dozen cheesecakes. Lemon Cheesecakes (another way). See Cheesecakes, Lemon. Lemon Cheesecakes (that will keep). Pub a pound of loaf sugar upon the rind of two large fresh lemons until all the yellow part is taken off. Crush it to powder, and mix with it the strained juice of the lemons, the yolks of six and the whites of fom- wcll-beaien eggs, three sponge biscuits grated, and foui' ounces of sweet butter. Put all together in a saucepan over the fire, and stir one way until the mixture is as thick as honey. It may be used at once, or, if preferred, may be put into a jar and covered closely. If kept in a cool, dry place, the mixture will remain good for two or three years. Time, half an horn- to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for three dozen cheesecakes. Lemon Cream. Take the thin rind of one large or two small fresh lemons, and put it into a pint of cream. Let it soak for half an hour, then stir in four ounces of sifted sugar and the strained juice of the lemon. When weU mixed, add one ounce of dissolved and cooled isinglass. Take out the lemon-rind, pour the mixture immediately into a well-oiled mould, and put it into a cool place to set. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Lemon Cream (another way) . See Cream, Lemon. Lemon Creams. Put the thin rind of two lemons, and a dozen sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, into a pint of cream, and let it stand two or three horns till the flavour is thoroughly extracted. If expedition is required, put the cream, &c., into a saucepan, and place it near the fire for half an hour. Put the cream into a jug, and let it cool, then poui' it from a good height into another jug containing the strained juice of the lemons, half a tumblerful of sherry, and three ounces of pounded sugar, and continue pouring backwards and forwards imtil the cream is nicely frothed. Serve in glasses. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. Lemon Creams (another way). Soak one ounce of isinglass for five minutes in half a pint of sheiTy or raisin wine. Dissolve it over the fire, stining gently all the time. Rub the rind of two large, fresh lemons with six ounces of loaf sugar, and add it, with the strained juice of the lemons, to the hot isinglass. Poui- the whole gently into a bowl containing a pint of cream or new milk, stiiall together for a short time, then put the liquid into a damp mould. Time, about an hour- to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Lemon Creams (economical). Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, with the thin rind of a lemon, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and an ounce of gelatine. Stir over a gentle fire until the gelatine is dissolved, strain the liquid into a jug, and add to it, very gradually, the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Pour the liquid from one jug into another until it is nearly cold; then add a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, and keep stirring five or six minutes longer. Pour the mixtm-e into a well-oiled mould, and lay it in a cool place till set. Time, a few minutes to boil the milk. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. LEM (371 ) LEM Lemon Creams without Cream. Put the thin rinds of two, and the strained juice of three lemons into a pint of spring water. Let them soak for an hour or two. Add six well-beaten eggs, and foui- ounces of loaf sugar, set all together over the iire, and stir constantly untU the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Strain it, when cool, into glasses. Time, a few minutes to thicken the cream. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. Lemon Custard. Put the thin rind of two lemons into a pint of cream, and soak until the flavour is extracted. Eoil the cream, and pour it gradually over the well- whisked yolks of eight eggs. Add the juice of the lemon, a tablespeonful of brandy, and two table-spoonfuls of madeira. Pour the mixture into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling water, and stir one way until it thickens. Serve either in cups or on a ?dish. Time, half an hour- to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy and wine, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of custard. Lemon Custard (another way). See Custard, Lemon. Lemon Custard, or Creams without -Eggs. Strain the juice of two lemons upon two ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Soak the thin rinds of the lemons in a pint of cream, and when the flavour is extracted, boil it, and pomit over the juice and sugar, stirring briskly all the time. Add half a glass of brandy, and serve either in a dish or in cups. This custard will keep for a day or tv o if put in a cool place. Time, a few minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for a, pint of custard. Lemon Custard without Cream or Milk. Put the thin rind of two lemons into three-quarters of a pint of cold water, and soak until the flavour is extracted. BoU the liquid, and pom- it gradually over the yolks of eight eggs which have been beaten briskly for several minutes. Strain the juice of the lemons over a quarter of a pound of sugar, add a quarter of a pint of water, and boil until the sugar is dissolved. Put all together into a jug, place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir one way until the custard thickens. A table-spoonful of brandy and two table-spoonfuls of madeira may be added if liked ; many think them a great improvement. Time, haLf an hour to make. Probable cost, exclusive of wine and brandy. Is. Sufficient for a pint and a half of custard. Lemon Drops. Strain the juice of three or four large lemons into a bowl, then miv powdered loaf sugar with it until it is qxiite thick. Put it into a pan, and let it boil for five minutes, stirring it constantly. Drop it from the end of a spoon Tipon writing-paper, and when cold, keep the drops in tin canisters until wanted for use. Or, take two ounces of powdered loaf sugar, mix with them the grated rind of three large lemons, and half a tea-spoonful of fine flour. "V Tiisk the white of an egg thoroughly. Work it up with the other ingredients to a light paste, then place it in drops upon a sheet of ?vsT-iting-paper, and drj' before the fire until the drops are quite hard. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, Id. per omice. Lemon Dumplings. Mx six oimces of finely-shied beef suet with half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; or, if preferred, four ounces of bread-crumbs and four ounces of flour. Add four table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the chopped rind and strained juice of a large lemon, a beaten egg, and half a pint of new milk. When thoroughly mixed, divdde the mixtme into half a dozen parts. Put each part into a small buttered cup, tie it m a cloth, and boil quickly until it is done enough. Serve the dumplings hot. with a little sauce made of three ounces of sugar boiled with the rind of a lemon, and the strained juice, and half a pint of water, until the sugar is dissolved. A glass of sherry and two or three drops of cochineal may be added. Time to boU, one hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Essence, Artificial. Mix gradually a di-achm of the best oil of lemons with two ounces of rectified spirits of wine. Cork securely. Lemon, Essence of. Choose fresh, sound lemons, wipe them well with a soft cloth, then take two or three large lumps of sugar and rub the yellow rind entirely off. Powder the sugar, put it into a glass jar, press it down, and cover it carefully to exclude the air, as the flavour of lemon quickly evaporates. Keep it in a cool dry place. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. A very small portion of the essence of lemon from the point of a knife will flavour a pint of custard. Lemon filled with Jelly. Cut a small round about the size of a shilling from the stalk end of each lemon with a small sharp-pointed knife, then scoop out the inside with the handle of a tea-spoon, and take gi-eat care not to injure the rind. Throw the skins into cold water for an horn- to harden them, drain them on a sieve, and when they are quite dry inside, half fill them with pink jellj'. Place them in rows upon ice, and when the jelly is firm, fill them up with white jelly, blancmange, or cream. Lay them on the ice once more, and, before serving, cut them neatly into quarters with a sharp knife. They should be arranged prettily on a glass dish with a sprig of m}T:i;le between each quarter. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. Lemon Floating Island. Take half a dozen fresh eggs, separate the whites and the j-olks ; beat the whites to a solid froth, sweeten them, and flavour with two or three drops of the essence of lemon. Beat the yolks, mix them with a pint and a half of milk, flavour strongly with lemon, and stir the custard over a gentle fire until it thickens, but it must not boil. When nearly cool, add verj' gradually a table-spoonful of lemon- juice. Pour it into a glass dish, and pile the whites upon it. Garnish according to taste. A small piece of red-currant jelly placed here and there is an improvement, or half of the froth may be thickly coloured with cochineal. Time, a few minutes to thicken LEM (372) LEM the custard. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Fritters. Shred two ounces of beef suet very finely, add a dessert-spoonful of flour, three ounces of fine bread-crumbs, the grated rind of a large lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, stir in a table-spoonful of milk, two wellbeaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Fry the mixture in small quantities until it is lightly browned on each side ; drain, and serve as hot as possible. Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lemon Gingerbread {see Gingerbread, Lemon). Lemon Honeycomb. Mix the whites of two eggs with a pint of cream. Sweeten it, and flavour vith a little grated lemon-rind. Whip it briskly, and as the froth rises place it upon the strained and sweetened juice of two lemons. Let it remain a few hours before being used. The juice should be put into the glass dish in which the honeycomb is to be served. Time to whip the cream, about one hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Ice Cream. Rasp the yellow rind of two large fresh lemons upon half a pound of loaf sugar. Powder it, and strain over it the juice of one lemon. Add a pint of cream, stir until the sugar is dissolved; freeze, and serve. If milk has to be substituted for the cream, it may be eni-iched by the addition of the yolks of two eggs. It must then be stirred over the fire until it is boiling hot, and the juice must not be added until the liquor has cooled. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. if made with cream, 6d. if made with milk. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of cream. Lemon in Cream, Fruit {see Fruit, Lemon, in Cream). Lemon Isinglass, or Gelatine, Jelly. Rub the yellow rind of three large fresh lemons upon half a pound of sugar. Pour over it the carefully-strained juice of six lemons, and put it into an enamelled saucepan, with two ounces of isinglass, a pint of water, and a quarter of a pint of sherry. Stir these over the fire until the isinglass is dissolved. Strain the jelly through a bag, and if it is not perfectly transparent, mix it, when quite cool, with the whites and crushed shells of three eggs whisked with a quarter of a pint of cold water. Let the jelly boil for three minutes without stirring, then let it settle for five or six minutes, and strain it again. Time, about an hoiir to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, 3s. Sufficient for a quart of jelly. Lemon Jelly, Isinglass, Superlative. Take six large fresh lemons, rub them well with a soft cloth, then pare the rind very thirdy from three of them, and throw it into a sjTup made by boiling a pound of refined sugar in a pint of water for six minutes. Strain the juice of all the lemons through muslin, and when the syrup is cool, mix them together. Put two ounces and a half of best isinglass into an enamelled saucepan, and pour over them a pint of spring water which has been beaten up with half the white of an egg. Stir the liquid gently until a scum begins to form, then let it boil softly and skim it carefully. When it hasboiled for five minutes, strain it, and mix it with the clarified syrup. Add a little sherry if this is wished, and run the jelly through muslin until it is qmte clear. Put it into damp moulds, and place these in a cool place or upon ice until it is set. Before tirming out, dip the mould for a moment in hot water, then turn it upside down on the dish. Serve at once. Time, an hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for three pints of jelly. Lemon Jxiice, Artificial, for Fish, Sauces, &C. Put half a dozen drops of the essence of lemon, made from oil of lemon, mixed with spirit {see Lemon Essence, Artificial) upon a lump of sugar. Pound it to powder, and stir it into three ounces of pyroHgneousvinegar. Use as required. Lemon Juice, To Preserve. Choose fine fresh lemons, and squeeze the juice from them. Strain it through muslin, and put it into bottles, pour over it sufficient olive-oil to cover it entirely, and cork the bottles securely. It will keep for some time. Or, put half a pint of strained lemon- juice into a basin, and with it half a pound of finely-pounded and sifted loaf sugar. Stir it with a silver spoon until the sugar is dissolved. Put it into small bottles, cork it closely, and tie bladder over the corks. Probable cost of lemons, Id. each. Lemon Juice, To Purify. Strain one pint of lemon-j uice through muslin ; mix with it half an ounce of pounded charcoal, and let it remain until the next day; run it through blotting-paper, and be careful to pour it off gently, so as not to disturb the sediment. Bottle it, cork it tightly, and tie bladder over the corks. Keep it in a cool, dry place. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. Lemon Kali. Take two parts of sifted sugar, one part of powdered and dried citric acid, and a little more than one part of powdered bicarbonate of potash. Mix thoroughly, and keep in a closely-stoppered bottle. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient, a tea-spoonful for half a tumblerful of water. Lemon Ketchup. Take six large fresh lemons. Cut off the rind very thinly. Make a deep incision in the end of each, fill it with salt, and afterwards rub salt all over them, using not less than three ounces. Let the lemons stand in a warm place for seven or eight days ; then put them into an earthen jar, strew over them a quarter of an ounce each of mace, cloves, and cayenne: add two ounces of horseradish, and if the flavour is liked, one ounce of garlic or shallots. Put a pint and a half of best white vinegar into a saucepan, with half a blade of mace, and half an ounce of bruised ginger. Simmer it gently for three minutes, then pomit hot upon the liquid. This pickle may stand for five months before it is strained; though, if LEM { 373 ) LEM required, it can be used at the end of two months. The coloiu- would be imjiroved if two or three bruised tomatoes were put with it. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for one quart of ketchup. Lemon Ketchup (a quick way of making). Take half a dozen fresh lemons. Cut them into slices, remove the pips, rub them well with three oimces of salt, place them in layers in a stone jar, and strew a little seasoning and spice between each layer, allowing & quarter of an ounce each of mace, cloves, and cayenne, two ounces of horseradish, two ounces of mustard-seed, two ounces of allspice, and two ounces of white pepper. Boil two quarts of white vinegar, pour it hot upon the lemons, and let it stand \mtil the next day. Strain, and bottle for use. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for two quarts. Lemon Liquor. Infuse the thin rind of two large, fresh lemons in a pint of rectified spirits of wine, for ten days. At the end of that time, strain, and mix with it the juice of the lemons and a syrup made by boihng half a pound of refined sugar in a pint of water for five minutes. Pour the liquor into bottles, cork securely, and tie bladder over the corks. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for a httle more than a quart of Kquor. Lemon Lozenges and Pipes. Put a quarter of an ounce of gum tragacanth into a quarter of a pint of water. Add the strained juice of three lemons, and the rind cut into thin slices. Let it remain for three or four days, until the gvun forms a mucilage, and stir it frequently during that time. Strain it into a mortar, and mis with it, very gradually, one pound of powdered loaf sugar, and be careful that one part is thoroughly mixed before another is added. "When a white and flexible paste has been thus prepared, dust a little starch over it to keep it from sticking, and roll it into a sheet about as thick as a halfpenny. Out it into lozenges with the back of a blunt knife, or roll it into pipes of the required length. Arrange them on a plate, and dry them in a warm oven. Probable cost, Is. Lemon Marmalade. Take some fresh clear lemons. Boil them in as much water as will cover them for two hours. Pour off the "water once or twice during that time, and replace it with fresh boiling water. Drain the lemons, and cut them into thin slices. Leave out all the pips and weigh the fruit, and allow two pounds of loaf sugar and a pint of the water the lemons were last boiled in for ?very pound of fruit. Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes. Put in the pulp, &c., and "boil together for half an hour. Pour the marmalade into jars ; when cool, cover it with "brandied paper, and afterwards with bladder or tissue-paper brushed over either with white of egg or dissolved gum. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Lemon Marmalade (another way). Boil and slice the lemons as in the last recipe; mix them thoroughly with an equal weight of apple pulp. Make a syrup, by boiling one pint of water with every two poimds of sugar, allowing two pounds of sugar to every pound of fruit. Boil the sugar and water together for ten minutes, put in the fruit, and boil again until it is clear. Put it into jars, let it cool, and cover in the usual way. Time, two hours to boil the lemons; forty minutes the marmalade. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Lemon Mincemeat. Peel two large fresh lemons very thinly, squeeze the juice from them, beiug careful to leave out the pips, and boil the rind until it is tender enough to beat to a paste. Add four sharp apples, pared, cored, and chopped small, half a pound of finely-shred sufit, a pound of currants, half a poxmd of good moist sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and citron, half a nutmeg, grated, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, a small pinch of salt, and the lemon-juice. Jlix all thoroughly, then put the mincemeat into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, and let it remain for a week before it is used. A little brandy may be added if Uked. Just before making the meat up into pies, add three or four macaroons crushed to powder. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for two dozen small pies. Lemon Paste for Dessert. Choose soimd fresh lemons, boil them in two or three waters, and season the first with a handful of salt. When they are tender, drain and let them cool, then put them into a bowl, and beat them to a pulp with a rolling-pin. Pass this pulp through a sieve, and squeeze it well to cause as much as possible to go thiough. Weigh the pulp. Mix with it an equal quantity of pounded sugar, and stir it without ceasing until it is so dry as to leave the sides of the saucepan and come up with the spoon. Press it into shallow dishes, and put these into a cool oven vmtil the paste is quite diy. It may then be cut into small squares, strips, or any other shape. These should be placed in single layers in a tin box, with foolscap paper between the layers. Time, altogether, about four horns. Probable cost of lemons, Id. each. Lemon Patties. Pub the rind of a fresh lemon with three ounces of loaf sugar. Crush it to powder, and mix it with the finely-grated crumb of a penny loaf. I'our over the mixtm-e a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and soak for half an hour. At the end of that time stir in two ounces of clarified butter and two wellbeaten eggs. Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them with the mixtiu-e, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. When done, turn the patties out on a hot dish, and send wine sauce to table Avith them. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen patties. Lemon Peel, Tincture of, Take the thin rind of a large fresh lemon. Put it in a bottle with half a pint of brandy, and let it infuse for a fortnight. At the end of that time the brandy will be strongly impregnated with the flavour of the lemon, and should be strained, corked closely, and put aside for use. Probable cost of lemon. Id. Sufficient, a teaspoonful will flavour a pint of custard, &c. LEM (374) LEM Leinon Peel, To Candy. Choose sound fresh lemons, cut them into quarters lengthwise, remove the pulp entirely, and put the rind into salt and water for three days, and afterwards into cold water for a day. Boil them in fresh cold water until they are tender. Drain them, and cover them Avith their syrup, made in the proportion of a pound of sugar to every quart of water. "WTien they look clear, which will he in half an hour, di'ain them again, make a thick syrup, allowing for this a pound of sugar to every pint of water, put them in, and boil over a slow fire until the syrup candies. Take out the lemons, drain them, and dry them in a cool oven. Store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost of lemons, Id. each. Lemon Peel, To Keep for Use. Lemons should be kept in a cool, dry place, and each one should be hung in a separate net, for if they touch one another they will spoil. The rind may be grated, put into jars, and covered with either salt or sugar, according to the nature of the dish for which it is afterwards to be used. Lemon Peel, To Preserve for Garnishing. Cut lemon-rind into thin slices. Prepare a syrup by boiling a pint of sugar with three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Put in the rind, and simmer both together for a quarter of an hour. When cool, put into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place. Lemon thus prepared is useful for garnishing dishes. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. Lemon, Pickled. Take a dozen fresh sound lemons, small, and with thick rinds. Rub them with a piece of flannel, and slit them down in four quarters through the rind only, without breaking the f nut. Fill the openings with salt, pressed hard in, and set them upright in a deep pan, which must be put in a warm place until the salt melts. Turn them three times a day, and baste them often in the liquor until they are tender. Drain the liquor from them, and put them into earthen jars. Boil the brine with two quarts of good vinegar, half a pound of bruised ginger, three ounces of black pepper, six ounces of mustard-seed, and an ounce of Jamaica pepper. Pour it, when boiling, iipon the lemons, with an equal quantity of the seasoning in each jar, and when cool, cover with thick paper. The lemons must be kept well covered with vinegar, and as it evaporates more must be added. When the lemons are used the liquid will be useful in making fish and other sauces. This pickle will keep for years, but it ought to be kept twelve months before it is used. If wanted sooner, however, bake the lemons in a very cool oven for six or seven hours. The best time for making this pickle is from November to April. Time, ten days to melt the salt. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. Lemon Pudding, Baked. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream, mix with it three ounces of powdered sugar, the beaten j'olks of three eggs, the well-whisked white of one egg, and the grated rind of a small fresh lemon. When these are thoroughly mixed, add the strained juice of the lemon, pour it in gently, and stir briskly all the time. Line the edges of a small pie-dish with good puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a slow oven for twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Lemon Pudding, Baked, Plain. Put the thin rind of a large fresh lemon into a pint and a half of milk. Let it soak for a while, then boil it, and ,pour while hot over half a pound of finely-grated bread-crirmbs ; add an ounce and a half of fresh butter, tkree tablespoonfuls of sugar, and three eggs well beaten. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Suflicient for five or six persons. Lemon Pudding, Baked (another and a richer way). Crush four ounces of ratafias to powder, and strain over it the juice of four fresh lemons ; add the grated rind of two lemons, four ounces of powdered sugar, three-quarters of a pint of cream, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, a small pinch of salt, the beaten yolks of six and the well- whisked whites of three eggs. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puii paste, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven imtil the pudding is lightly broAvned, which will be in about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for i five or six persons. ! Lemon Pudding, Boiled. Shred haK a I pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it half I a pound of bread-crumbs, half a poimd of sugar, I a tea-spoonful of salt, the rind of two large i lemons chopped small, the strained juice of one, ' and two well-beaten eggs. Pour the mixture I into a buttered mould, plunge it into boiling water, and boil it quickly and continuously. Serve brandy sauce with it. If preferred, one oimce of ginger or half a pound of chopped figs may be substituted for the lemon-rind, but the j nice should not be omitted. Time to boil, f our hours. Probable cost. Is. r Sufficient for five or six persons. Lemon Puflfs. Grate the i-ind of two fresh lemons, and mix it with ten ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Beat the whites of two eggs to a form froth, add the sugar very gradually, and whisk all together to a thick paste. Cut it into any shape that may be preferred, but be careful not to handle the paste any more than can be helped. Place the puffson oiled writing-paper, and bake upon tins in a, moderate oven for about ten minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Lemon Rice. Put the rind of a lemon, an ounce of butter, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, five or six bruised almonds, and a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan. When it boils, stir in quickly a quarter of a jjound of gi'ound rice which has been smoothly mixed with another half -pint of milk. Continue stirring until the rice has boiled for a few minutes, and until it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon, then take out the rind, pour the rice into a well-oiled mould, and l)ut it in a cool place to set. Cut the rind of LEM (375) IiEM a lemon into strips an inch long and the eighth of an inch wide, throw them into boiling water, let them boil for two minutes, then cVain and diy them. Put six ounces of sugar into a pint of water, add the juice of the lemon and the strips of rind, and simmer gently for two hoiu's. AVhen wanted for use tui-n out the rice, poui' the S)Tup gently over it, and take care that the lemon-rind is equally distributed. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lemon Rock Biscuits. Rub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar. Powder it, and mix it gradually with the white of an egg whisked to a firm froth; beat thoroughly. Butter some writing-paper, place it on an oven tin, drop the mixture upon it from the end of a spoon in rock-like shape, and place it in a cool oven to dry. Time, half an hour to beat the sugar and egg. Probable cost, 6d. Lemon Roly-poly Pudding (excellent). Take the pulp from two large, fresh lemons. Remove the pips, weigh the lemons, and boil them with an equal weight of sugar for a quarter of an hour. Turn the mixtvire out to cool. Mix six ounces of finely-shred suet with thi-ee-quarters of a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and as much water as will make it into a firm paste. Roll it out about half an inch in thickness, spread the mixture upon it, roU it round and round into a long pudding, pinch the ends securely, tie it in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough, which will be in about two hours. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Sandwiches. Take one pound of rich puff paste and roll it out very thinly. Divide it in halves, and spread over one haK a layer of lemon cheesecake mixture. Put the other half upon it, press it closely, mark it lightly into diamonds, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Sauce for Fowls. Take a fresh lemon, pare off the rind, and remove the thick white skin and the pips. Cut it into dice, and put it into half a pint of good melted butter. Make it thoroughly hot without bringing it to the point of boiling, and serve immediately ; half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind is sometimes added. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lemon Sauce, for Fowls, White. Take about half a pint of white stock (or, failing this, boil the trimmings of the fowls with a little water), put it into a saucepan with the thin rind of a lemon, six white peppercorns, half a blade of mace, pounded, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and a bunch of parsley. .Simmer gently for twenty minutes. Strain the sauce, add half a pint of good cream or milk, thicken with a dessert-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold milk, and boil gently a few minutes longer. Just before serving, add the strained juice of the lemon, but let the sauce cool a little before it is put in, and stii- it weU or it will curdle. If wanted very rich the sauce may be thickened with a little butter rolled in flour. Time, twenty minutes to flavour the stock. Probable cost. Is. if made with cream. Suffi. cient for half a dozen persons. Lemon Sauce for Puddings. Put the rind and strained juice of a large lemon into a bowl. Pour over them a wine-glassful of sherry or raisin wine, and a wine-glassful of water. Let them infuse some time. Mix an ounce of fresh butter and an ounce of flour over the fire. When it is slightly browned gradually pour in the wine and water; add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and boil gently until the mixture is quite smooth. Draw the saucepan from the fire, let the contents cool a minute, then add the Avell-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the mixture until it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added, or it will curdle. Time, four or five minutes to boil the Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Sauce for Puddings (another way). Put the thin rind of a lemon and three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar into a saucepan with half a pint of water. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then add the juice of the lemon and a wine-glassful of gin. Strain and serve. Two or three drops of cochineal may be added, if liked. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lemon Sherbet. Rub the yellow rind of five small lemons with three-quarters of a poimd of loaf sugar. Crush the latter to powder, put it into a saucepan with a pint of water, and sinamer gently until the sugar is dissolved. When cold, add the strained juice of the lemon. Take out the rind, and, in the usual way, serve in glasses. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the syrup. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lemon Shrub (sec Orange or Lemon Shrub). Lemon Snow (a pretty dish for a juvenile party). Pour a pint of cold water over an ounce of isinglass or gelatine. Let it soak for a few minutes, then put it in a saucepan over the fire, with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the thin rind and strained juice of two fresh lemons. Simmer gently, stirring it all the time, until the isinglass is dissolved ; then pour it out, and put it aside until it is cold and beginning to set. Stir in the whites of thi'ce well-beaten eggs, and whisk all together briskly until it stiffens and assumes the appearance of snow, then pile it lightly in a glass dish, and make it look as rocky as possible. If the uniform whiteness is objected to, a tea-spoonful of hundreds and thousands may be strewn over the top just before ser\ang, or half of the snow may be coloured with two or three drops of cochineal. Time to whisk the snow, half an hour. Probable cost, if made with gelatine. Is. 3d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lemon, Solid. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon with four ounces of sugar, crush I.EM (376) LEM the lumps, and put them into a saucepan with haK an ounce of isinglass and half a pint of cream. Heat gently until the isinglass is dissolved, then add another half-pint of cream and a wine-glassful of brandy. Stir the mixture for three or four minutes, strain it through ?a thick fold of muslin, and when cold add the ;juice of half a lemon. Pour it into a mould that has been soaked in cold water, and put it aside till set. If there is any difficulty in turning it out, loosen the edges with a knife, and dip the mould for an instant in hot, but not boiling, water. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy. Is. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. ' Lemon SOTlfl9.e. Mix a quarter of a pound of flour very smoothly with a pint and .a half of milk; add a quarter of a pound of : sugar which has been well rubbed upon the rind of three fresh lemons, and a quarter of a pound of butter, and boil gently until the mixture is thick and smooth. Pour it out, and stir it until it is nearly cold, then add the yolks of ;six eggs, well beaten. Last of all, whisk the whites of nine eggs to a firm froth, and add them, with the strained juice of two lemons, to the rest. Butter a souffle-mould thickly, half fill it with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. If it is necessary to fill tlie mould more than half, tie a baud of weU-buttered white paper round the top, to prevent the contents ninning over. Serve the souffle the moment it comes out of the oven, or its appearance will be spoilt. Time to bake, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for :six or eight persons. Lemon Sponge. Put an ounce of isin, glass or gelatine into a pint of water, add the rind and juice of two lemons, and half a pound of loaf sugar, and simmer gently for half an hour. Strain into a bowl, and when the mixture is cold and beginning to set, which may be known by its becoming thick, stir in the whites of two eggs beaten to a firm froth, and whisk it briskly until it is of the consistency of sponge. Pour it into a damp mould, and turn it out before serving. A few drops of cochineal may be put in with the eggs, if hked, to give a pink appearance. Time, half an hour to whisk the sponge. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Lemon Syllabub. Strain the juice of five lemons over the rind of two. Add half a pound of loaf sugar, and let it remain for an hour or two. Add a pint of thick cream and half a pint of sherry or raisin wine, strain it, then whisk until the mixture is well frothed. Pour the syllabub into glasses, and let it stand ten or twelve hours before being served. Time, thirty or forty minutes to whisk the syllabub. Probable cost, exs usive of the sherrj , 2s. 3d. Sufficient for a dozen glasses. Lemon Syrup. Boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water until it is dissolved. Let it -cool, then add a quarter of a pint of lemonjuice and half a drachm of essence of lemon. Mix thoroughly, and bottle for use. Time, ?a quarter of an houv to boil the sjTiip. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient, two table-spoonfuls of sjTup to a tumblerful of cold water. Lemon Tartlets. Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar in lumps over the rind of a fine fresh lemon, strain the juice over the sugar, and crush it well ; then add two ounces of clarified butter, a tea-spoonful of breadcrumbs, and two well-beaten eggs. Line some patty-pans with good puff paste, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient for eight tartlets. Lemon, Tincture of, for Flavouring. Put haK an ounce of the thin rind of a fresh lemon in a pint bottle with eight ounces of best brandy or rectified spirits of wine. Let it soak for a fortnight, at the end of which time the spirit will be strongly impregnated with the flavour of the lemon. If not sufficiently strong, however, an ounce of recently-prepared oil of lemons may be added. Strain the liquid, put it into small bottles, and cork securely. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. Sufficient, a few drops \vill flavour a pint. Lemon Tubes. Weigh an egg. Beat it well, and mix with it its weight in flour and powdered sugar, and add a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. ]Mix thoroughly, and beat to a stiff paste. Roll it out to the thickness of a halfpenny, and dredge a little powdered arrowi'oot on it to prevent it sticking. Divide it into rounds, about the size of the top of a breakfast-cup, place those on a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Poll them whilst still warm on a pencil, to shape them into tubes. Bake until lightly browned. Probable cost, 3d. Lemon Turnovers. Rub an ounce of loaf sugar upon the rind of a lemon. Crush it, and dissolve it in two table-spoonfuls of milk. Add three dessert-spoonfuls of flour, two ounces of clarified butter, and two well-beaten eggs. Stir all over the fire for a minute. Take a pound of good pastry; divide it into six or eight pieces, and roll each piece out to a round shape, about the size of a saucer. Spread a little of the mixture on one half of the round, fold the other haK over, fasten the edges securely, and bake on a buttered tin in a moderate oven. Before serving, sift a little sugar over the turnovers. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, a halfpenny each. Sufficient for six or eight turnovers. Lemon Water. Take the rind from a large fresh lemon, remove the thick white skiij, and cut it into thin slices. Put them into a jug with half the rind and two table-spoonfuls of capillaire. Pour over them a qiiart of boiling water, and cover closely for three hours. This is a refreshing beverage for hot weather. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a quart of liquid. Lemon Water Ice. Rub the rind of six lemons upon twelve large lumps of sugar, squeeze over them the strained juice, add half a pint of water and a pint of syrup, made by boiling three-quarters of a pound of sugar ia three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar Plate V GOOD & SAD MEAT , lUcLney Prune Cualih- SXeg of Fork Frurw Quality 5 , ecd. Frune. Quality Ivferujr ? -f ? Inferior , 6 , ? J iferufr ,. (377) LEM is dissolved. Pu 'ether into a jug, and leave it for an ho o. Then mix, strain, and freeze in the vy. Serve in glasses. The ice will be n. -jroved if, wlien it is beginning to set, ites of thi-ee eggs, beaten to a firm i ad mixed witli six ounces of powdered r, are stirred into it. Time to freeze, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. per glass. (Sufficient for ten persons. Lemon Whey. Pvit half a pint of milk in a saucepan. AVhen it boils, pour in a tablespoonful of lemon- j nice ; add more if this does not effectually turn the milk. Let it boil up, then put it into a bowl to settle ; sti-ain and sweeten, and add a little hot water if the whey is too acid to be agreeable. This whey is excellent for inducing perspiration. Time, a few minutes. , Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for rather less than half a pint of whey. Lemon, Whole, To Keep for Use. Put a layer of dry fine sand, an inch in depth, at the bottom of an earthen jar. Place a row of lemons upon this, stalks downwards, and be careful that they do not touch each other. Cover them with another layer of sand, fully three inches in depth, lay on it more lemons, and repeat until the jar is full. Store in a cool dry place. Lemons thus preserved will keep good for a twelvemonth. Lemon Wine. Put the thin rind of five lemons into a tub. Pour over them a syrup made by boiling four quarts of water with fourpounds of sugar for thirty minutes. A\Tien quite cold, add the strained juice of ten lemons. Place a toast covered with j-cast on the top, and let the liquid stand for a day or two, imtil fermentation begins, then take out the rind, put the liquor into a cask, and keep it filled up to the top until it has ceased working, when it must be bunged down closely. In tlu-ee months it will be ready for bottling. If preferred, the peel of the lemon can be omitted. This wine should be made at the beginning of the year, when lemons are cheapest and best. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a gallon and a half of wine. Lemon Wine, Quickly Made. Boil a quart of water with a pound of loaf sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then add half an ounce of citric acid. AVhen the liquid is cool, stir in with a silver spoon twelve drops of essence of lemon and eight drops of spu'its of wine. Colour with a little saftron. Time, an Iiour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for thi'ee pints of wine. Lemonade. Boil a quart of water with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and pour the syrup over the lind of six lemons. Let them soak for two or three hours. Add the strained juice of the lemons and two quarts of water. Pass the whole through a jelly-bag, and serve in glass jugs. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for seven pints of lemonade. Lemonade, Acidulated (s-e Acidulated Lemonade) . Lemonade, Economical. Slice four fresh lemons, and be careful to remove the pips and the thick white skin. Put them, with the 25 rind, into a jug, add a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and pour upon them a quart of boiling water. Cover closely, and when the lemonade is cold, it is ready for use. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three pints of lemonade. Or, prepare two lemons as above, and put them into a jug with six ounces of moist sugar and an oimce of cream of tartar. Pour two quarts of boiling water upon them, and let the liquid stand until cold. Tinie, two hours to infuse. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for five pints of lemonade. Lemonade, Effervescing. Boil two pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of strained lemonjuice until the sugar is dissolved. Pour the sjTup out, and when it is cold put it into bottles, and cork closely. When wanted for use, put a table-spoonful into a tumbler threeparts full of cold water. Stir in briskly twenty grains of carbonate of soda, and drink during effervescence. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a little more than a quart of sjTup. Lemonade for Invalids. Squeeze the juice out of a fine lemon. Strain it, put it with a quarter of the rind and three or four lumps of loaf sugar into a jug, and pour over it a pint of boiling water. Cover closely, and let the lemonade stand for two hoxirs. At the end of that time strain, and it wUl be ready for use. Lemonade for invalids should be made with boiling water, as the unhealthy properties of the lemon are thus destroyed. A small quantity only of sugar should be put in, imless a desire to the contrary is expressed, as the acidity will most Hkely be agreeable. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint of lemonade. Lemonade for Invalids (anoth erway). See Invalid's Lemonade. Lemonade Milk. Dissolve half a povmd of loaf sugar in thi-ee-quarters of a pint of water. Add three-quarters of a pint of cold milk, a quarter of a pint of strained lemonjuice, and a quarter of a pint of any light wine. Mix thoroughly, and pass the liqiud through a jelly-bag. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, about 6d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for three pints of lemonade. Lemonade Milk (another way). See Milk Lemonade. Lemonade, Mock. Put half a dozen drops of essence of lemon upon six ounces of loaf sugar, and add a quarter of an ounce of tartaric acid. Pour a quart of boiling water upon them, and mix thoroughl)''. Tune, about three minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a quart of lemonade. Lemonade, Nourishing. Pub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon three or four lumps of sugar. Put them into a jug, add five ounces of loaf sugar, and pour over them a pint of boihng water. When cool, strain the liquid, and stii- into it a quarter of a pint of lemon-juice, a quarter of a pint of sherry, and four well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly, and the lemonade is ready for use. Time, about an hour to prepare. Probable cost, LEM (378) LET exclusive of the sherry, Is. Sufficient for a quart of lemonade. Lemonade, Portable. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon thi-ee ounces of loaf sugar. Crush it to powder, and mix with it half an ounce of tartaric acid. \Arhen thoroughly blended, put the powder into a glass bottle, and cork closely. It will keep for some time. When wanted for use, stii- a spoonful of the powder into a glassful of water. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a dozen tumblers of lemonade. Lemonade Syrup. Rub the yellow rind of six lemons upon a pound of loaf sugar. Moisten it with half a pint of water, and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is quite clear, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, add the strained juice of twelve lemons, and simmer gently for two or three minutes, but the syrup must not boil after the juice is added. Bottle at once, and when cold cork closely. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient, mix a table-spoonful of the sjTup with half a tumblerful of water. Lemons, To Keep for Use {see Lemon Peel, To Keep for Use ; and also Lemon, Whole, To Keep for Use). Lentil. Lentils, though little used in England, excepting as food for pigeons, are cultivated on the Continent for soups and maigre dishes. They are best of a good size, and j oimg. To prepare them, wash a pint of lentils. Put them into" cold salted water, and let them boil for half an hour. Drain the water away, and let them stew until tender. Pour the water off once more, boil them with a little good gra\y, and serve quite hot. They are seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lentil Soup. Wash a pint of lentils, and make them into a puree by boihng them in as much water as will cover them, with LENTIL PLANT. a dessert-spoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, an onion, and a small bunch of herbs. "SVhen tender, press them through a coarse sieve, season with salt and pepper, and moisten with half the quantity of good soup. Simmer all gently together for a quarter of an hour, and serve very hot. If no soup is at hand, slice a large onion, a carrot, and a lettuce, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and let them simmer for five or six minutes ; add a pint of veal stock and a pint of lentils, and stew for half an. hour. Then add another pint of stock, and boil an hour longer. Stir in the crumbs of a roll, and when soaked, rub all through a tammy cloth, and let it boil once more, when it is ready for serving. Two ounces of well-boiled Patna rice may be served in a tureen with the soup. Time, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lettuce. There are two sorts of lettuces, the cabbage and the cos. They are chiefly used for salads, but may be also boUed or stewed, and served as a vegetable. They may be had all the year, but are in full season from March, to September, Lettuce, Boiled. Wash four or five lettuces thoroughly, cut away the tliick bitter stalks, but retain all the sound leaves, whether green or white. Boil them ten or fifteen minutes in plenty of salted water, then throw them for a minute into cold water, strain, and chop them lightly. Put them into a stewpan with a pint of good white sauce. Season them with salt, pepper, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and simmer gently until quite hot. Draw the saucepan to the side for a minute, and stir among the lettuces the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lettuce in Salads. Lettuces which are to be iised for salads should be fresh and young. The thick bitter stalk should be cut off, and the outer and decayed leaves removed. The great secret in preparing lettuce for salad is to have it quite dry. In order to insure this, look the leaves over carefully. In all probability the white, tender leaves at the heart of the plant will be entirely free from insects and grit. When this is the case, do not plimge them into water, as it only spoils the flavour. Any leaves, however, about which there is the slightest doubt must be scrupulously washed in two or three waters. When taken out of the water they should be well shaken, placed in a wire basket, and hung for four or five hours in an airy situation. When a basket is not at hand, the lettuce may be divided into small pieces and shaken in a dry cloth xmtil not a particle of moistm-e remains. The French are careful to break the lettuces with the fingers, instead of cutting them, as they maintain that contact "ftdth steel spoils the flavour of the salad. The sauce should never be added until the moment before serving. Probable cost, Id. each. Sufficient, a large lettuce for two or thi-ee pjersons. Lettuce Salad (a German recipe) . Prepare two large lettuces as above, shred them finely, and put them into the salad bowl. Cut four ounces of bacon into dice, fry these with a finelyminced onion for five or six minutes, and shake the pan over the fire to prevent them browning. Add to the bacon a little salt (the amount will depend upon the quality of the bacon), half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a table-spoonful of vinegar; pour all over the lettuce, and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. LET (379) LEV Lettucfe Stalks, To Preserve (an imitation of preserved ginger). Take the - stalks of large lettuces, peel olf the outer skin, cut them into pieces about two inches long, wash them thoroughly, and weigh them ; then leave them to soak in cold water. Ascertain how much water will bo required to cover the lettuce- stalks entii-ely, and boil this quantity with a pound of sugar and an ounce and a half of whole ginger to every pound of stalks. The ginger should be soaked in hot water and sliced before being added to the sugar. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, take out the ginger, drain the water from the lettuce-stalks, pour the syrup over them instead, and leave them until the next day. The syrup must be boiled with the ginger for a quarter of an hour every day for five days, and poured over the lettuce. The strained juice of one or two lemons may be added at the last boiling. Cover the preserve in the usual way, and store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Lettuce, Stewed. Take four good-sized lettuces, trim away the outer leaves and the bitter stalks ; wash the lettuces carefully, and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are tender. Lift them into a colander, and squeeze the water from them ; chop them slightly, and put them into a clean saucepan "with a little pepper and salt and a small piece of butter. Dredge a little flour on them, pour over them three table-spoonfuls of good gravy, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring all the time. Squeeze a dessei-t-spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice upon them, and serve as hot as possible, with fried sippets round the dish. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lettuce, Stewed (another way). Take four good-sized cabbage lettuces, wash them carefully, trim off the outer leaves and the stalks, and put them into boiling water for ten minutes. Drain well, and let them get quite cold, then cut them into halves, sprinkle a pinch of salt over each half, tie them together again, place them in a stew ian, cover them with good stock, and put with them a piece of beef-dripping the size of a large egg, a bunch of parsley, a little piece of thjTne, and an onion with a clove stuck in it. Cover closely, and simmer very gently for two hours. A.t the end of that time take out the lettuces, drain them, remove the strings, fold the leaves round neatly, and place them in a cu'cle on a hot dish, with a piece of fried bread between each. Pour over them half a pint of household gravy (see Household Gravy). Serve immediately. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lettuce Stewed with Green Peas. Take two good-sized cabbage lettuces. Wash them carefully, remove the stalks and the outer and decayed leaves, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt over them, and let them lie in cold water for a couple of hours. Drain them, cut them into slices, and put them into a saucepan, with a quart of young and freshly-shelled green peas, a piece of butter the size of an egg rolled thickly in flour, half a quarter of a pint of good stock, and a little pepper, salt, and poimdcd sugar'. Cover closely, and simmer gently imtil the peas are soft. Time, an hour to simmer. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six Lettuce, Stuffed. Wash four or five large lettuces. Boil them in jjlenty of salted water for fifteen minutes. Throw them at once into cold water, and afterwards let them drain. Open them, fill them with good veal forcemeat, tie the ends securely, and put them into a stewpan with as much good gravy as will cover them, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of vinegar. Simmer gently for another fifteen minutes, remove the strings, place them on a hot dish, and pour the gravy round them. If preferred, the lettuces may be prepared as above, and then put into a braising-pan, with thin slices of bacon above and under them. A carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little good gxavy may then be added, and the lettuces simmered gently for an horn- and a half. A glassful of sherry may be added to the gravy before it is served. Probable cost of the lettuces. Id. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Leveret, Braised. Truss the leveret like a hare, and fill it with a forcemeat made as follows : Grate very finely two ounces of stale crumb of bread, season with a saltspoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pounded sugar, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, half a salt-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, and half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg ; add a shallot, chopjDed small, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of sweet herbs. "When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work them together with a dessert-spoonful of brandy and two ounces of clarified butter. Fill the leveret with the forcemeat, and sew it up secirrely. Place two or tliree slices of bacon at the bottom of the braising-pan. Fasten two or three more on the back of the leveret, and put it legs downwards into the pan. Pour over it half a pint of good gravy, and add a small onion, finely minced, a sliced carrot, a glassful of sherrj-, and two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently for two hours. Take out the leveret. Press the vegetables through a sieve, put them back into the gi'a\y, thicken it with two teaspoonfuls of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold water, retmii both leveret and gravy to the stewpan, and siainier for about a quarter of an hour longer. Serve very hot. Probable cost of leveret, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Leveret, Cold Roast, with Poivrade Sauce. Divide the remains of a roast leveret into neat pieces, trim them, and put them aside until wanted. Cut an ounce of lean uncooked ham into dice, and take the same quantities of minced onion, carrot, and celerj . Put these ingredients into a stewpan vith an ounce of butter, and fry them until they are lightly browned. Pom- over them three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, and about a LEV ( 380 ) LIE tea-spoonful of ancliovy sauce ; add half a blade of mace, a tea-spooniul of salt, a drachm of cayeime, and a hay-leaf. Simmer gently for half an hour, then add half a pint of good hrown sauce and a glass of white wine. Boil gently, and skim carefuUy until all the fat has heen removed, then strain the sauce, put it back into the stew )an, and let it boil for a few minutes. Put in the pieces of cold leveret, and serve when they are quite hot. The sauce must not boil after the leveret is added. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, lOd. Sufficient for four or six persons. Leveret Puree. Take the remains of cold roast or braised leveret. Cut the meat off the bones, remove the skin and sinews, chop it small, and pound it in a mortar. Add gradually, whilst pounding, the remains of the sauce, and press all together thi'ough a hair sieve. Like other purees, this may be used for garnishing patties, or it may be made hot with a httle reduced stock and seasoning, and served with mashed potatoes. Time, about an hour to prepare. Leveret, Roasted. Leverets maybe used when hares are out of season ; they should be trussed in the same way, and may be stuffed or not (with hare stuffing) , according to preference. A leveret is best when larded, but if this cannot be done, cover it either with thin shces of fat bacon or with a thickly-buttered piece of white paper. Roast it before a brisk fire, and baste it constantly, and a few minutes before it is taken down remove the bacon or jDaper, dredge a little flour over it, and froth it nicely. Serve it very hot, and send red cm-rant jeUy to table with it as well as the following gravy, a little of which may be i)ut in the dish and the rest in a tureen : Thicken half a pint of stock with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, let it boil for about ten minutes, then stir a wine-glassful of port into it, boil up once more, and serve. Time, an hour to roast the leveret. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 4s. Liaisons. The various methods for thickening sauces and soups are called liaisons. Those most frequently used are composed of flour, ground rice, arrowroot, roux, eggs, and milk. Flour, ground rice, and arrowroot should be mixed very smoothly, first with a little cold liquid, and afterwards with some of the hot liquid. The mixture shoidd then be strained, and poured with one hand into the sauce or soup which should be at the same time well stirred with the other hand. The soup must be boiled after this preparation is added. Liaison of egg is composed of the yolks of eggs only. The liquid should always be cooled for a minute before this liaison is added. The yolks must be weU beaten, then mixed with a httle of the liquid, and graduallj" added to the rest, and all stirred together over the fire until quite hot. If allowed to boil, however, after the egg is added, the liquid will curdle. Two or three spoonfuls of milk or cream are sometimes added to the egg. For liaison of roux, see Eoux, Brown and White. A haison of butter is used to enrich rather than to thicken sauces. It should be stirred in cold at the last moment, and on no account allowed to boil. Liebig's Extract of Meat. This valuable preparation, which is sold as the pure essence of meat, is so wholesome, nourishing, and economical, that it can scarcely be too highly spoken of. It has again and again been of the highest service in cases of extreme prostration, thus proving its nourishing qualities ; and those who have been accustomed to use it as a partial substitute for fresh meat in making soups and sauces will be able to speak of the sa-ving they have thus eft'ected. Care should be taken in preparing it to use boiling water, and a liberal allowance of salt, and also (when it is intended for invahds) to make it rather weak at first, until the patient has become accustomed to its peculiar flavour. It has been calculated that an ounce of this extract contains as much nourishment as can be obtained from two pounds of fresh meat. This should be borne in mind in making soups and sauces. Generally speaking, a mixture of moat and extract will be found to be more satisfactory than if the extract is used alone. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for two ounces. Liebig's Extract of Meat, Beef Tea from.- -Dissolve a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract in half a pint of water, stir it until dissolved, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and serve immediately. Time, two or three minutes. Probable cost, l d. Sufficient for half a pint of beef tea. Liebig's Extract of Meat, Cheap and Nourishing Soup made from. Buy two pennj-worth of fresh bones, wash them well, break them into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan with four quarts of cold water. Bring the hquid to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer very gently for five hours. Two large onions stuck with two cloves, two carrots, two turnips, a bunch of parsley, and half a dozen of the outer sticks of a head of celery should be boiled with it for the last hour and a half, and if it is wished to thicken the soup, two table-spoonfuls of sago, rice, or tapioca may be put in as well. Strain the soup, and add, whilst boiling hot, two table-spoonfuls of Liebig's extract of meat. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Liebig's Extract of Meat, Gravy from {see Gravy from Liebig's Extract, &c.). Liebig's Sandwiches. Very appetising and nutritious sandwiches may be made for travellers or invalids from Liebig's extract of meat. Cut two sHces of thin bread and butter, remove' the crust, and spread a httle of the extract very thinly over one of the pieces, with a Httle mustard, i ress the other sUce of bread and butter upon it, and cut it into neat pieces. Time, five minutes to prepare. Liebig's Soup for Children. Put a table-spoonful of floiu'into a bowl, -w-itha tablespoonful of fini.'ly-ground malt and seven grains and a quarter of bicarbonate of jsotash. Mix these ingredients smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, then add gTadually, stirring all the time, ten table-spoonfuls of new milk. Put the LIL ( 381 ) LIN mixture into a saucepan, and let it simmer gently until it thickens, then take the pun from the fii'e, and stir it until it again becomes fluid. Boil it for five minutes, strain it through a sieve, and it will be ready for use. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for half a pint of soup. Lillian's Delight. Take a pound of any good cake, made without currants, cut it into slices rather more than an inch tliick, and stamp these into rounds or diamonds, about the size of a crown-piece ; scoop a hole in the middle of each round, half an inch deep, and three-parts fiU it with nicely-wliippcd cream, spread a little jam on the top, and" cover the cakes entirely with an icing made as follows : Put the whites of two eggs and half a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar into a basin, add two or three drops of lemon- juice now and then, and work the ingredients well together with a wooden spoon, until the mixture looks like a thick white cream, when it is ready for use. The icing should be spread on the cakes about a quarter of an inch thick, and after it is put on they should be put in a warm screen, and left there until the icing is quita hard. Probable cost of cake, Is. per pound. Lime. The lime is a variety of the lemon, but is much smaller, being only about an inch or an inch and a half in diameter. Its cultivation in Europe is by no means extensive, but in the West Indies it is held in high esteem, being more acid and cooling than the lemon. Lime punch is there considered superior to any other. Lime-juice i imported into Britain like lemon-juice for the manufacture of citric Hcid. Lime Flower Tea (for indigestion). Pour a quart of boiling water over an ounce of lime-flowers, cover closelj', and let it stand for a few minutes, then strain the tea, sweeten it with two table-spoonfuls of honey, and drink a cupful as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. Sufficient for a quart of tea. Limes, To Preserve. Take half a dozen limes; make three or four slight cuts in the rind of each ; rub them well with two oimces of salt ; and put them in a wami place, tiuniag them occasionally, until they are softened, whch will be in about five days. Boil as much vinegar as wiU cover them, with a quarter of a pound of mustard-seed, a quarter of a pound of bruised ginger, and one ounce of whole pepper, to each quart. Put the softened limes -wdth the salt, (fcc, into a jar; pour the boiling vinegar upon them, and let them stand for twenty-four hoiu-s. Tie a skin over the top, and store in a cool, dry place. Limes, To Preserve (another way). Take a dozen limes, weigh them, and put aside double their weight in loaf sugar. BoU them in two or three waters until the rind is sufficiently tender for a fork or skewer to piierce it easily. Drain them, cut them into thin slices, carefully remo ang the pips, and put them into a deep jar. Boil the sugar to a clear syrup, and put half a pint of water with every pound and a quarter of sugar. Pour this syrup, when boiling, over the fruit; let it remain for two davs. Tui'n the whole into a preserving-pan, boil for a quarter of an hour, then put the fruit into jars. Cover these securely, and bo careful to store them in a cool dry place. Limpets. In some parts limpets are used for food, and though coarse, are not unwholesome. They merely require boiling in a little salt and water for a few minutes. The limpet, when raw, is said to be poisonous. Ling. Ling is a fish of the same species as hake, and, like that fish, is both cheap and nourishing. It is a native of the northern seas. In form it is not unlike the cod, but it is more slender, and grows to the length of six or seven feet. Its colour is gray, inclining to olive ; the beUy, silvery ; the fins, edged with white. The tail-fin is rounded. The ling is a very voracious fish, feeding principally on smaller fishes. It is captured in vast quantities ofl: the Orkney, Shetland, and Western Islands, and is also found near the SciUy Islands, and off Plamborough Head. In Britain it is littleused as food. It is in perfection from February to the end of May. When ling are less than twenty-six inches long they are called drizzles on the Yorkshire coast, and are consumed by the natives, being thought an excellent fish. When large they are coarse. They are salted, ch-ied, and exported to Spain, and other southern parts of Europe, where the live fish are not met with. The soimds and roes are salted separately. The liver yields an oil similar to cod-liver oil. When boiled it is insipid, but v hen fried or baked is both palatable and wholesome. A very good pie may also be made from it. Ling, Baked. Cut four pounds of Hng into slices, and put these into a baking-dish. Dredge well with flour, and sprinkle over them two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea.spoonful of white pepper, and haK a tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Divide three ounces of fresh butter into small pieces, and place these here and there upon the fish. Eub a tablespoonful of flour smoothly into haK a pint of milk; pour this over the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time to bais,, one hour. Probable co'st, Is. 8d. Sufficient; for half a dozen persons. Ling, Fried. Take two pounds of fresh ling, cut it into sHccs three-quarters of an inch thick, rub these over with pepper and salt, dredge a little flour over them, and afterwards egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling fat. Parsley and butter, or lemon "and LIN ( 382 ) LIT liver sauce may be served with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. Ling Pie. Take three or four pounds of the thin part of a salt ling-, wash it in two or thi-ee waters, and let it soak for a couple of hours ; then j ut it into a fish-kettle, with as much water as will cover it, and let it boil slowly until done enough. Take off the skin, and put layers of the fish into a pie-dish, with four hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, a Httle cho ped parsley, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace strewn amongst them. Add three ounces of fresh butter divided ruto small pieces; pour over the fish a quarter of a pint of gravy. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, place a cover of the same over the top, brush it over with egg, and bake ia a brisk oven. Before serving pour a cupful of warm cream into the pie. Time to bake, about one hour and a half. Probable cost of ling, 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Ling, Slices of, Stewed. Cut about one i ound of fresh ling into slices nearly threequarters of an inch thick, rub them over with pepper and salt, and fry them in boiling fat for about ten minutes. Place them in a stewpan, and cover them with a little stock. Put with them a sprig of parsley, a stick of celery, a quarter of a blade of mace, a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a small piece of thin lemon-rind, and simmer gently for half an hour. Put the slices on a hot dish, and after stiuining the gravy, and thickening with flour and butter, pour it boiling over them. Serve as hot as possible. A tea-spoonful of lemonjuice may be added or not. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two persons. Linseed. This is the seed of the flax plant. It is small, oval, oblong, acute at the extrenuties, glossy, and brown. Internally it is white. The taste of linseed is mucilaginous and oily. The infusion of linseed in boiling water jaelds a demulcent mucilage, which is much used as a domestic medicine in coughs {.see Linseed Tea). The linseed should not be boiled in the water, as that extracts the oil contained in the linseed as well as the mucilage, and renders the decoction nauseating. Linseed Tea (Invalid Cookery). Put an ounce of linseed into a jug, pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover closely, and let it stand for half an hour. Pour it into another jug, and serve either hot or cold. Half an ounce of Spanish liquorice may be put with the linseed if the tea be wanted for any one with a cough. Sufficient for one person. Liqueurs. The name liqueur is applied to any alcoholic preparation flavoured, perfumed, or sweetened so as to be more agreeable to the taste. These preparations are very numerous ; the following are amongst the principal : ? Absinthe, whichis spirit sweetened and flavoured with the young tops of a species of artemisia. Aniseed cordial, made by imparting to weak spirit the flavour of aniseed, coriander, and sweet fennel seed, and sweetening it with a highlyclarified syrup of refined sugar. Clove cordial, flavoured with bruised cloves, and coloured with burnt sugar. Curac 'oa, of which the reader will find an account under its proper heading. Kirschwasser is made in Germany and Switzerland from cherry-juice fermented. The name j signifies cherry-water. Large quantities are j manufactm-ed in the Black Forest. This liqueur j always contains some prussic acid from the I cherry-stones, and sometimes so much as to be I almost poisonous. In Kiimmel, or DoppelKiimmel, we have the chief liqueur of Russia. It is prei ared in the usual way with sweetened spuit, flavoured with cumin and caraway-seeds, the latter being genei'ally so largely employed as to conceal any other flavour. The principal seat of its manufacture is Eiga; a superior sort of Kiimmel, however, is made at Weissenstein, in Esthonia. The principal difference between the Riga and the Weissenstein article lies in the greater purity of the spirit used at the latter place. Maraschino is distilled fi-om bruised cherries. The wild fruit is not used, but a delicately-flavoured variety grown only in Dahnatia. Noyau, or Cremo de Noyau, is a sweet cordial flavoured with bitter almonds (bruised). Peppermint is a common liqueur, much in demand amongst the lower classes in the metropolis. Generally it consists of ordinary sweetened gin, flavoured with the essential oil of peppermint, which is preWously rubTjed up with refined sugar, to enable it to mix with the very weak spirit. Recipes for making the following liqueurs will be found in this work under their respective headings: Cherry Brandy Lemon Cremes Mead CuRAcoA Noyau Currant Or.\nge Four-Fruit Punch Ginger Cordial Ratafia Hawthorn Shrub Jelly Syrup for Liqueurs. Liquorice and Liquorice Root. Liquorice is a long and creeping root, procured from a plant of the pod-bearing tribe. It is cultivated in England, but is a native chiefly of Spain and of Southern Europe. The extract of the root is known as "black sugar," "stick Kquorice," "Spanish juice," or "hard extract of liquorice." It forms the basis of several kinds of lozenges, and is added generally to soothing di-inks. It is employed, as everj' one knows, as a demulcent remedy in coughs and other complaints. Even when used in considerable quantity it does -not disorder the stomach, or even create thii'st like common sugar. Little Ladies' Tart (a pretty dish for a juvenile party). Rub four ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three ounces of pounded sugar, and three well-beaten eggs. Work these ingredients into a firm paste, and roll it out three or four times, dredging lightly with flour to prevent it sticlving to the board. Make it into a round shape, about quarter of an inch in thickness, ornament the outside edge with a fork or spoon, put it on an oven plate, and bake in a quick oven. "WTien sufficiently cooked, take it out and let it cool. Just before ser 'ing, spread lightly over it different coloui-ed jellies and LIT ( 383 ) LIV jams, laid in strips from the centre like the spokes of a wheel. Time, about twenty-five minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Little Mary's Cup Puddings. Grate the rind of a large fresh lemon upon two ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Mix a dessert-spoonful of the juice with half a pint of cold water. Dissolve the sugar in this over the fire ; add a quarter of a pound of butter, and a wine-glassful of sherry, or any other light wine, and when the butter is melted, pour the mixture out to cool. Mix four- ounces of flour very smoothly with three well-beaten eggs, add the cooled liquid very gradually, and stir the batter over the fire for thi-ee minutes. Take some well-buttered cups, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the puddings out of the cups before serving, and sift a little powdered sugar over them. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Liver and Ham, Forcemeat of, for Haised Pies, &C. Take half a pound of calf's liver, and half a pound of fat bacon. Cut the meat into one-inch squares, and fry them lightly, putting in the bacon first, and when it is half done adding the liver. Season with a small tea-spoonfxil of herbaceous seasoning and a little salt. WTien the liver is half cooked, take it and the bacon up, drain them irom the fat, mince finely, then pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, pass this tlirough a coarse seive, and put the forcemeat aside for use. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Liver and Kidney Pudding {see Kidney and Liver Pudding). Liver and Lemon Sauce for Fowls {see Lemon and Liver Sauce). Liver ando Parsley Sauce. Take the liver of a fowl or rabbit be careful that it is perfectly fresh wash it, and boil it for five minutes in quarter of a pint of water. Miuce it very finely, pound it iu a mortar, and mix with it a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. Stir both into a quarter of a pint of good melted butter. Let the sauce remain on the fire until it is quite hot, but it must not boil. Time, one minute to heat the sauce. Probable cost, 2d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. , Liver, Fat Ragoiit of. Take the livers of two large fat geese. Eemove the gaU-bag, taking care that no yellow spots are left near the place where it was, then lay the livers in milk for some hours to whiten them. Put them into a ste-svpan, and cover them with equal parts of good gravy stock, and light wine. Put with them a bunch of parsley, two sliced shallots, a tea-spoonful of bruised pepper and ginger mixed, four bruised cloves, a bay-leaf, and a little salt. It is probable that very little of the last-named ingredient will be required, as the gravy and stock will doubtless contain salt sufiicient. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently. When the livers are done enough, diain thein from the liquid, and reduce the latter by rapi boiling to the consistency of sauce. This ragout may either be used as a garnish, or it may be served as a separate dish. When the latter is the case, the livers should be placed upon a dish, and the yolks of two eggs beaten up with quarter of, a pint of cream added to the reduced liquid, and poured over them. Time to simmer the livers, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost uncertain, livers being generally bought with the geese. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Liver, Forcemeat of {see Forcemeat of Liver) . Liver, Fried. Cut one pound of liver into slices, a quarter of an inch in thickness, and dredge some flour over them. Take an equal number of slices of bacon, fat and lean together. Fry the bacon first, and when it is done enough, di'aw the rashers from the fat, and place them on a hot dish. Fry the slices of fiver in the same fat, and when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon and liver in a circle, a slice of each alternately. Pour the fat from the pan, and dredge a little flour into it. Add a quarter of a pint of broth, a little salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Stir smoothly together until the sauce boils, and pour it into the dish with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If liked, a table-spoonful of finely-minced gherkins or pickled walnuts may be added to the sauce. Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the Uver. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Liver Fried (another way). Take one pound of fresh liver, and a few rashers of bacon. Cut the liver into neat slices, a quarter of an inch thick, and dip each slice in a mixture made of one table-spoonful of flour, one tea-spoonful of salt, and one of pepper. Cover the bottom of the frying-pan with some clear dripping, about quarter of an inch in depth. _ Place the pan on the fire, and when the dripping ceases hissing, put in the liver and bacon. The bacon will be done first; remove it, and in five minutes turn the liver. When the latter is done enough, dish it with the liver, and serve very hot. A little sauce may be made as in the last recipe. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Liver Klosse (a German recipe). Take haU' a pound of raw hver, and two ounces of fat bacon. Mince them together very finely ; add a little salt and pepper, and finely-minced parsley, together with three ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs. Mix three well-beaten eggs, with an ounce and a half of butter which has been worked with the fingers to a cream. Put these with the mince, then make the mixture up into egg-shaped baUs, being careful to handle them lightly, and to dip the fanger into cold water occasionaUy whilst making them up. Drop them into boiling water, and boil them until done enough It is weU to try a small quantity before fonning the whole into baUs, and if it falls in pieces, add a little more grated bread to the other ingredients. Time to boil, fuUy half an hSu . LIV ( 381 ) LOA Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Liver Klosse (another way). Take a large slice of the crumb of a stale loaf. Pour half a pint of milk over it, and let it soak for half an hour. Press the liquid from it, and mix with it half a pound of finely-minced raw liver, the grated rind of half a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, one of chives, and a little pepper and salt. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour over these ingTedients, and stir in two well-beaten eggs. Make the mixtm-e up into egg-shaped klosse, drop them into boiling water or broth, and boil them until done enough. Before serving, fry two ounces of chopped bacon in a little butter, and pour this over the klosse. If any remain, they may be sliced, dipped into beaten egg and bread-criimbs, and fried in hot fat. Time to boil, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Liver Klosse, for Soup (a Gei-man recipe). Skin haK a calf's liver, and mince it small. Mix with it four oimces of finelyshred suet, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, the wellbeaten yolks of foiu- and the whites of two eggs, and as much crumb of bread soaked in milk and pressed dry as will bind it together. FoiTU into egg-shaped balls, cook these in boiling water, and serve in soup. Half a teaspoonful of any herb powder that is liked may be added with the parsley. Time to boil, haLf an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Liver Puddings. Take half an ox liver ; clear it from skui, boil, and grate it. Mix with it its bulk in bread-crumbs, and finely-shred suet. Season rather highly with black pepper ; add a little salt, grated nutmeg, and a glassful of rum. Have the pudding skins well cleaned, tie one end, and turn them ;,inside out. Half fill them with the mixture, and tie them in three or four places at equal distances. Put them into water which is nearly on the point of boiling. In five minutes prick them with a large darning needle to prevent them bursting, and let them boil for half an hour. Liver sausages should be kept in a cool place untU wanted for use. Before serving, boil for a quarter of an hour, and then broil them. Probable cost, exclusive of the rum, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Liver Sauce for Fish. Stew the liver in some of the gravy in which the fish was boiled vmtil quite tender. Mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar with half a tea-spoonful of ch-y mustard. Thicken half a pint of grav\' with a small piece of butter rolled in flour ; add the liver, some salt, and a tea-spoonful of chiUi vinegar. Let all boil up once, and serve. Time, a quirter of an hour- to boil the liver. Sufficien: for four or six persons. Probable cost, 3d. Liver Sauce for Eoast Hare. Be sure that the liver is quite sweet. Wash it in two or tkree waters, and stew it in a quarter of a pint of good beef gravy, then mince it finely, and with it a clove of shallot, two table-spoonfuls of picked parsley, and a quarter of a tea- spoonful of thyme. Eeturn the liver to the saucepan; let all boil up together. Then add a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of currant jelly, and two of port. This sauce may be used for roast rabbit, if a glassful of sherry be substituted for the port and jelly. Servo immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the Kver. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Liver Sausages. Take an uncooked pig's liver. Mince finely, bruise it, and afterwards rub it through a colander. Mix with it half its weight in boiled pork, finely minced, and add half a pound of fat bacon chopped small. Season rather highly with salt, pepper, and powdered cloves. Three-parts fill some thick skins with the mixture; put them into boiling salt and water, and let them sinuner very gently. A little pounded onion or powdered sage may be added, if the flavour is liked. The sausages may be eaten either cold with bread and butter or hot. If eaten hot they do not require boiling before they are fried. Time, half an hour to simmer. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Liver Sausages {see Mecklenburg Liver Sausages) . Liver Sausages, Mecklenburg, Smoked. Take one poimd of the cuttings of pork, and one poimd of sward, or the skin of the pig cut from the loins. The tongue and kidneys, and a little fat may be added, if liked. Cut the meat into slices, and boil aU gently in as little water as possible until quite tender. The sward should be put upon the fire before the rest of the meat, as it wiU require much longer boiling. Mince all very finely, and mix in the raw Kver, which has been chopi ed and bruised and pressed through a coarse sieve. Season rather highly with salt, pepper, and half a dozen powdered cloves. Pour over the mince the fat which has risen to the top of the liquid in which the meat was boiled, and add, if approved, either a bruised shallot or a teaspoonful of powdered or grated lemon-rind. When filling the skins, remember to leave room for swelling, and simmer the sausages gently in the same liquid in which the meat was boiled. The liver sausages may be used fresh or smoked as preferred. If smoked, two days will be long enough for them to hang. Time to boil large skins, one hom* ; small skins, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Loach.. The loach is a small fish, usually about three inches long, with a round body with six wattles or barbs at its mouth. In Scotland it is known as the beardie. It is not very common, but is met with occasionally in small brooks and rivulets. The use it is chiefly put to is to serve as bait for eels and perch, but it is worthy of being brought under the cook's notice. It is delicious fried in batter, or Avith eggs and crumbs of bread. Loaf Cake. Mix one pound and a half of flour with three-c uarters of a pound of moist sugar; add an ounce of caraway seeds, and eight well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly one f LOA ( 38.5 ) LOB talilo-siDooiiful of yeast, a table-spoonful of milk, and a table-spoonful of water, and stir those into the cake. Put the mixtm-c on one side a little time, and when it is risen mould it lightly ; put it into a weU-buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Loaf Cake, for Luncheon, feeBeat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it six ounces of moist sugar and six weU-beaten eggs. Add one pound of flour, three table-spoonfuls of rose-water, one tablespoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, one small nutmeg, grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a table-spoonful of dissolved saleratus, and a small tea-cupful of milk. Beat all thoroughly. Line an earthen cakemould with buttered paper, pour in the "mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Loaf Cake of Indian Meal. Kub four oimces of fresh butter into one pound of Indian meal. Pour over it as much boiling milk as -will make it into a tliick batter, and when this is cool stir into it two well-beaten eggs. Stone a quarter of a poimd of raisins. Wash, pick, and dry a quarter of a poimd of currants. Dredge over them as much fine flom* as will adhere to them, and stir them into the batter, and afterwards stir in six ounces of moist sugar. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Loaves, Mecca {see Mecca Loaves). Loaves, Oyster {see Oyster Loaves). Lobster. Tliis shell fish is in season from the beginning of April to the end of October, so that it, to a certain extent, .supplies the place dui'ing these months of the oyster. It is highly esteemed, and may be served in various ways. Medium-sized lobsters are the best for eating, and very small ones, which are the cheapest, may be used for sauce. The flesh of the male, or cock lobster as it is termed, is more delicate than that of the hen, and its shell assumes a brighter red after "boiling. The hen is valued, however, on account of the spawn, which is used for making sauce, and the coral for garnishing salads, &c. The common lobster sometimes weighs as much as ten or twelve pounds when loaded with spawn, but a lobster of one pound weight, or even less, is considered fit for the market. \\Tien boiled, its beautifully clouded and varied bluish-black turns to a nearly unifonn red. Lobsters are certainly nutritive, but not so much so as is commonly supposed. Not being easily digested, they require condiments, of which the most proper are those most frequently used, namely, vinegar and pej per. On some constitutions lobsters hav? a pernicious effect, and occasion eruptions of the skin and other distressing symptoms of derangement. Great care should be taken that they are in good condition, and quite fresh. When stale, they are unwholesome in a high degree. Lobster (a la Braise) . See Lobster, Baked. Lobster (a la Creme). Pick the meat from a large freshly -boiled cock lobster, mince it finely, and put it into a saucepan with half a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, and one of light \vine. When quite hot, put with it two ounces of fresh butter, lightly rolled in flour, and a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Simmer gently for ten minutes, stii'ring all the time, and when thoroiighly heated put the mixture into the shell of the lobster, place it on a neatly-folded napkin, and garnish with parsley. Probable cost of lobster, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster (a la Fran aise). Pick the flesh from a mcdiimi-sized fresh lobster, and cut it into small dice. Stir two table-spoonfuls of cream into a quarter of a pint of M'hite stock, season with a little salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, put it into a stewpan with the lobster, and let it simmer very gently. Scrape the shell, and put it upon a dish with a border of puff paste round it. Pour the mixtm-e into this, cover rather thickly with fine breadcrumbs, and brown it by holding over it an iron shovel which has been made red-hot. Time, to simmer five or six minutes. Probable cost of medium-sized lobster. Is. 6d., when in full season. Sufficient for foiu" or five persons. Lobster and Oyster Pie. Pick the meat from the tails of two freshly-boiled lobsters, and cut it into neat pieces, which must be seasoned with a Httle pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Bruise the shells and spawn, and make a little gravy from them. Pound the flesh fi-om the claws and bodies to a smooth paste, mix with it a slice of bread finety-grated, six ounces of fresh butter, three table-sj oonfuls of vinegar, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Line the edges and sides of a pie-dish with good puff paste. Put in the slices of lobster, then two dozen oysters with their liquid, and afterwards the pounded meat. Lay the cover over all, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter. Before ser\'ing, strain a little of the gravy from the shells into the pie. "When the pastry is cooked enough the pie is done. Probable cost of lobsters. Is. 6d. each, sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lobster and Prawn Soup {see Prawn and Lobster Soup) . Lobster, Baked (or Lobster a la Braise). Take the flesh of a large fresh hen lobster, chop it small, then poimd it in a mortar, and mix with it a quarter of a small nutmeg, gi'ated, three grains of caj'enne, half a saltspoonfiil of salt, two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, and two well-beaten eggs. Shape the mixture with the hands into its original form. Pound the coral and spawn, and lay them on the meat ; then bake in a quick oven. Before serving, put the shell, tail, and small claws upon the meat in such a way as to make it have the appearance of an undressed lobster. Bake a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of a medium- sized lobster, when in fuU season. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. LOB ( 386 ) LOB Lobster Balls. Pick the meat from a largo fivslily-lioilcd heu lobster, mince it vcry finely, and p.niiid it in a mortar, with a saltspoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful of salt, three grains of cayenne, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and two ounces of clarified butter. Make the mixture up into halls the size of a large egg. Dip these into beaten egg, and then into fine diy bread-crumbs. Let them stand a few minutes, then dip them a second time. Fry them in boiling fat till they are lightly browned all over ; dram them from the grease, and serve them on a lieatly-folded hot napkin. G-arnish with parsley. Tune, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost of large lobster, from 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster Bashaws. Prepare the lobster as in the last recipe. Di\'ide the shell into quarters, scrape these thoroughly, and sprinkle over the inside of them some fine dried breadcrumbs. Put in the mixture, cover it thickly with bread-crumbs, pour over the top a quarter of a pound of clarified butter, an ounce over each quarter, and bake in a quick oven. Serve the meat in the shells, neatly arranged on a hot napkin, and garnish with bright green parsley. If on being taken out of the oven the lobster is not sufficiently browned, hold a red-hot ii-on shovel over it for two or three minutes. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost of a large lobster, from 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for si.x or seven persons. Lobster, Boiled. Wash the lobster well before boiling, especially if it be a hen, tie the claws securely, and throw the lobster, head first, into plenty of fast-boiling salt and water. If this be done life -nail be destroyed instantly. Afterwards let it boil gently. l Tien done enough, take it out, wipe it, and rub the shell with a little salad-oil, which will give it a clear red colour, Caie should be taken not to boil a lobster too long, or the meat wiU be stringy. The Germans put a handful of caraway-seeds into the salt and water. If not sufficiently boiled the spawn will not be brightly coloured. Time, moderate-sized lobster, fifteen to twenty minutes ; large lobster, thirty to forty minutes ; very large, one hoiu'. Probable cost, from Is. 6d. to 3s. Lobster, Broiled. Take a medium-sized freshly-boiled cock lobster, spUt it open from head to tail, remove what are called the lady fingers, which are not to be eaten, sprinkle a little white pepper over the meat, and place pieces of butter here and there upon it. Lay the shells open upon a gridiron above a bright, clear fire, and when quite hot, serve on a neatlyfolded napkin. Time to broU, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for foiu' or five persons. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 3s. Lobster Butter. Take the spawn and coral of a hen lobster and pound them in a mortar with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and twice their weight in fresh butter. Eub them through a sieve, and put them in a cool place until wanted for use. This butter will keep a long time, and as lobsters with spawn cannot always be obtained, the cook should endeavour to keep some always on hand, as it is needed for sauce, and many dishes made with lobster. It should be of a beautiful red colour. When the spawn, cannot be had, pound the shell of the lobster very finely with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Put it iii a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil gently for an hour, then press the butter through a cloth into a basin of cold water. When it has stiffened, lift it from the water, di-ain it, pass it through a sieve, and mix vrith it an equal quantity of fresh butter. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. and upwards. Lobster, Buttered. Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan -svith an ounce and a half of fresh butter rolled in flour. Stir it over a gentle fire rmtil quite hot, then add the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a dessertspoonful of chilli vinegar, or, if this is not at hand, common vinegar may be used, and three grains of cayenne, with half a salt- spoonful of white pepper in it. Two table-spoonfuls of rich gravy are a great improvement to this dish. Stir the mixture gently over the fire until it is quite hot. Serve it in the shell of the lobster with bread-crumbs over the meat. Time to simmer, ten minutes. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster, Buttered (another way). Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan with an ounce and a half of butter, rolled in flour, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, a wine-glassful of sherrj', the same of rich gravy, and a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle. When quite hot, put the mixture into the shells, and garnish with parsley and small thres-cornered pieces of toasted bread. Time to heat, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Choosing a. Unboiled lobsters should be heavy and full of motion, which is an indication of their being fresh. If they are thickly crusted, they are old. Medium-sized lobsters, when heavy, are often better than large ones. The flavour of the flesh of the cock lobster is finer than that of the hen. It may be known by the narrowness of the back part of the tail, and by the stift'ness of the two uppermost fins within it. When lobsters are fi'eshly boiled their tails are stiff, and when lightly puUed return with a Spring. Lobster, Cold. Take off the large claws and crack the shell lightly, without disfiguring the fish. Split open the tail with a sharp knife, and dish the fish on a folded napkin, with the head in an upright position in the centre, and the tail and claws arranged neatly roimd it. Gai-nish with parsley. Salt, cayenne, mustard, salad-oil, and vinegar should be eaten with it. Sufficient, a mediiun-sized lobster for two or tlu-ee persons. Lobster, Cold, Dressed. Pick the meat from the shell, mince it finely, and mix it with a little salad-dressing, or with a few breadcrumbs, a little salad-oil, salt, pepper, mustard, LOB (387) LOB and vinegar, the quantities to be regulated by taste and the size of the lobster. Probable cost, from Is. Gd. Sufficient, a medium-sized lobster for two or three persons. Lobster Croquettes. Pick the meat carefully from the shell of a freshly-boiled hen lobster, and mince it verj finely. Pound the coral and spa-\vn in a mortar, and mix with it a little grated nutmeg, three grains of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Add the minced lobster, and stir all these ingi-edients over a gentle fire until the egg is set. Spread the mixture on a plate, and when cold, make it up into the shape of corks. Dip these in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are lightly browned all over. Drain them, and pile them upon a folded napkin, in a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for foiu- or five persons. Lobster Ctirry. Pick the meat from the shell of a "freshly-boiled medium-sized lobster, and cut it into neat square pieces. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry smoothly with a quarter of a pint of good stock. Mince two onions finely. Fry them in a little butter imtil they are tender without being browned, dredge a tea-spoonful of flour over them, pour over them the cuiTy powder and stock, and stir the mixture imtil it thickens. Put in the pieces of lobster, and stew gently for half an hour. Just before ser\dng, add a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Put the lobster on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and send rice boiled as for cm-ries to table with it. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. . Lobster Cutlets. Take a medium-sized freshly-boiled hen lobster. Pick out all the meat, and pound it in a mortar with an ounce and a half of fresh butter, a small salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white pepper, and half a salt-spoonful of mixed mace and cayenne. Add lobster butter which consists of the coral and sj awn pounded smoothly with butter, sufficient to colour the whole brightly form the mixture into small cutlets about a third of an inch thick and three inches long, stick a little piece of one of the small claws into each, dip each into beaten egg, and roll it in bread-crumbs. Let the cutlets stand a few minutes, then dip them in egg and breadcrumbs a second time. Fry them in hot fat until they are Ughtly coloured, and place each cutlet as it is finished on a piece of blottingpaper before the fire. An-ange in a circle on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Time, two or three minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Cutlets (another V7aj). See Cutlets of Lobster or Crab. Lobster Cutlets, Quickly Made. Choose a verj- large lobster. Let it be half boiled; take the flesh out whole, cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and dip these into beaten egg and highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Let them stand ten minutes, then dip them again, and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly browned all over. Drain them from the fat, and arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour a quarter of a pint of lobster sauce into the centre, and send to table as hot as possible. Hot pickles should accompany this dish. The sauce should be made in the ordinary way. Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, Ss. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Dressed, with Sauce Piquant. Pick tlic meat from the body and claws of a freshly-boiled cock lobster, and divide it into neat pieces, about half an inch square. Take the yolks of thi-ee hard-boiled eggs, pound them well, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and . half a grain of caj enne. Add very gradually, by drops at first, beatino- well between every addition, four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and afterwards two table-spoonfuls of tarragon ' negar, and a dessert-spoonful of very hot chilli -s-inegar. This sauce ought to be of the consistency of good cream. Pour it just before serving over the lobster, and garnish with parsley. Tiaie, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lobster Fricassee. Pick the meat from the tail and claws of a medium-sized lobster, cut it into small squares, and put these in a saucepan with half a pint of good white sauce, poxmd the coral, and mix it smoothly with the liquid. Season -with half a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper and pounded rnace mLxed. When the mixture is on the point of boiling take it from the fire, let it cool a moment, then add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. The white sauce may be made of a quarter of a pint of good beef stock and a quarter of a pint of cream, thickened with a little arrowi'oot ; or, if no beef stock is at hand, the shell of the lobster may be boiled in half a pint of water and cream, flavouring and thickening being added to it. Tune, about ten minutes to bring the sauce to the boiling point. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster, Gratin of. Take the meat from a good-sized lobster, cut the body in half, and pick out all the meat, which must be cut into tliiu slices. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, with three shallots, finely minced. Brov.m them lightly, then mix in a table-spoonful of flooi-, and when quite smooth, half a pint of milk. Boil for five minutes. Put in the sliced lobster, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt and cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of ancho\'ies. Stir all over the fiie, and when boiling draw the saucepan back, and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Fill the shell of the lobster with the mixture, spiinkle, bread-crumbs over it, and pom- on a little clarified butter. Put the shell in a hot oven for twenty minutes, dish on a napkin, and serve. Probable cost of lobster, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Mayonnaise of . Take out the meat of a freshly-boiled hen lobster, and cut it into small neat squares. Trim and wash two LOB ( 388 ) LOB large fresh lettuces, or any other salad, taking great care that they are quite dry before beingused. Cut or tear these into neat pieces, and arrange a layer of them at the bottom of a large dish, place several pieces of lobster upon them, and repeat until the materials are finished. Just before serving pour over them a sauce made as follows: Beat the yolks of two raw eggs for two or three minutes, until they begin to feel thick, add, by drops at first, ten table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and four of tarragon vinegar. The mixture should be as thick and smooth as cream. The secret of making a mayonnaise is to add the liquid gi-adually, and to beat well between every addition. Season the sauce with half a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, half a saltspoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Cover the salad with the liquid. At the last moment, sprinkle over it the lobster coral, which has been powdered and well sifted, and garnish the dish with sliced beetroot and hard-boiled eggs. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable cost of lobster, Is. 6d. and upwards. Sufiicient for eight or ten persons. Lobster, Miroton of. Soak the crurnb of a penny roll until it is c uite soft in as much cream as will just cover it. Pick all .the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, pound it with the spawn thoroughly in a mortar, and mix with it the soaked crumb, and the well-beaten yolks of tlrree fresh eggs. Season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Just before boiling the mixture, add a whole & , which has been well whisked. Line a plain round mould with some thin slices of ham, fat and lean together, pour in the mixtui-e, and boil until it is done enough. Send lobster sauce to table with it. Time to boil, an hoirr and twenty minutes. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. and upwards. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster Patties. Take a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, pick out the meat from the tail and claws, mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of the spawn, pounded and sifted, an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of cream, a tea-spoonful of veal jelly, haK a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, a tea-spoonful of grated lemonrind, and a little salt, pepper, pounded mace, and cayenne. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes. Line some patty-pans with good puff paste, which has been rolled out a quarter of an inch thick, put a crust of bread into each, to preserve its form, lay on the covers, ornament the edges with the back of a knife, brush them over with yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven. When the pattie-s are baked, take out the bread, partially fill them with the hot mixture, replace the covers, and serve immediately. Dish them on a neatlyfolded napkin. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the patties, five minutes to stew the mixture. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for thi-ee dozen patties. Lobster Pie. Pick the meat from two medium-sized, freshly-boiled lobsters, and cut it into small, neat pieces. Bruise the shells and spa vn in a mortar, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of water, three spoonfuls of vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of salt and pepper, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Simmer gently until the goodness is extracted, then strain the gravy, thicken it with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, and let it boil again. Line the edges of the pie-dish with good puff paste, put in the pieces of lobster, strain the gravy over them, and strew some finely-grated bread-crumbs on them ; lay the cover over all, and bake in a moderate oven. \Vhen the paste is done, the pie is ready. Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost of lobsters. Is. 6d. and upwards. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Potted. Pick out all the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, and pound it and the coral in a mortar to a smooth paste. Mix with it a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a grain of cayenne, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pound of clarified butter. A few shrimps may be added or not. When thoroughly pounded, press the mixtui-e into jars, and pour cool clarified butter over. When the butter is set the lobster is ready to serve. The white meat of the claws should be pounded apart from the rest. Time, an hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost of lobster, Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lobster, Potted (another way). Pick the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster. Tear the white part into flakes with two forks, and pound a table-spoonful of it with the soft parts and the spa-wTi in a mortar. Use the same seasoning as in the last recipe. AVhen ready, press the red and white meat into jars ia layers, and cover %vith clarified butter. When prepared in this way the appearance of the lobster is better than when the last recipe is followed, but the meat will not keep so long. Time, about an hoiir and a haK to prepare. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lobster, Potted (another way). Take ten medium-sized, freshly-boiled lobsters, half of which should be hens, and half cocks. Pick out the red, the spawn, and the soft meat, and divide the white meat into neat pieces. Butter an earthen jar rather thickly. Put in the pieces of lobster in layers. Sprinkle a little seasoning, and place a sHce of butter over each layer. When the jar is full, tie three or four folds of paper over it, and place it in a moderate oven until it is quite hot. Take out the pieces of lobster, let the butter drain from them, and put them again into the jar with a little of the drained butter. Dissolve the rest of the butter with a small quantity of white wax, and pour it over the pieces of lobster when cold. Cover securely with bladder, and keep in a cool dry place. The seasoning should be pounded in a mortar to a powder, and should consist of a quarter of an ounce of mace, a nutmeg, three cloves, half an ounce of white pepper, and an ounce of salt. Two pounds of fresh butter will be required for this number of lobsters. Time, about half an LOB ( 389 ) LOB horn- to bake. Probable cost of lobsters, Is. 6d. each. Lobstei' Quenelles. Pick the meat from a freshly-boiled hen lobster. Pound the flesh of the claws, the coral, and the spawn in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of butter, the flesh of a large w hiting, and six oxmces of panada [see Panada) . Add the yolks of four eggs and the wliites of two, and season vith a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a pinch of salt, a grain of cayenne, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. WTien thoroughly pounded, form the forcemeat into the shape of the bowl of a spoon. The quenelles may be either fried in hot butter, and served with lobster sauce as an entree, or be used for garnish, &c. Time, ten minutes to ix\. Probable cost of lobster, Is. 6d. Suflicient for thi-ee or foui' persons. Lobster Quenelles (another way). iS't'e Quenelles, Lobster, for Fish Soups. Lobster, Rissoles of. Pick the meat from a small newly-boiled fresh lobster. Mince it finely, and mix with it half a teaspoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-skred parsley, and a pinch of cayenne, and pour upon it the strained juice of half a small lemon. Fry an inch of sliced onion in butter until tender, poui- over it a quarter of a pint of cream, simmer for three or four minutes, then put in the minced lobster ; add the yolks of two eggs, and stir all over the fire until the eggs are set. Spread the mixture on a dish, and let it remain until cold. Roll out some good pufE paste to the thickness of the eighth of an inch. Place small balls of the mince upon it at short distances from each other. Moisten the paste roimd them with a little water, and cover them with more paste. Press the edges securely, trim them neatly, dredge a little floxir over them, and fry them in hot fat until lightly browned. Dish them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve hot. Probable cost of smaU lobster, 9d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Lobster, Roast. Lobsters are occasionally haLf roasted and half boiled, instead of being boiled until done enough in the usual way. When half done, thej are taken out of the water, di-ied, rubbed over with butter, placed on a dish before the fire, and basted liberally until they are weU. frothed. The usual plan, however, is the best. Lobster Salad. Pick the meat from the body of a lobster, take out the tail part in one piece, and cut it, with the contents of the claws, into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Chop the whites of two hard-boiled eggs smaU, and rub the yolks through a hair sieve. Do the same with the spawn or coral of the lobster, but mix the soft part and any bits with the sauce. Pour the sauce into the bowl, put in a layer of shred lettuce and small salad, and place the slices of lobster, with hard-boiled eggs, quartered, and interspersed with sliced beetroot, cucumber, &c., on the top. Repeat in the same manner until the bowl is f uU, sprinkling the 2; and coral over and between the layers. To ornament, reserve some of the hard-boiled eggs, yolks and whites ; arrange these, with the coral, beetroot, and sliced lobster, so that the coloui-s may contrast well. Before serving, pour some mayonnaise sauce over the top. Crab may be prepared in the same manner. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Lobster Salad (another way). In making lobster salad bo careful that the lobster is sweet and fresh, and that the lettuces are crisp and dry. Unless the latter are perfectly free from moisture, the sauce, instead of blending properl) , will be liable to float in oily particles on the top. Take the meat of one or two large lobsters. Divide it into neat pieces, and season each piece slightly with pepper, salt, and vinegar. Place a bod of shred lettucehearts at the bottom of a dish, put a layer of lobster upon it, mixed, if liked, with a few slices of cucumber; cover again with lettuce, and rei)eat until the materials are exhausted. Decorate the border with any garnish that may suit the taste. It may consist of aspic jeUy cut in dice, sliced beetroot, stamped with a cutter, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, lettuce-hearts, nasturtium flowers, scraped radishes, &c. &c. Pour the sauce over at the last moment, and sprinkle a little powdered and sifted lobster coral on the top. Mayonnaise sauce is the most suitable for all fish salads. It is made as foUows : Beat the yolks of two raw eggs until thick. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, a salt-spoonful of mustard, haK a pint of oil, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. After the salt, i epper, and mustard, the oil should be added, in drops at first, and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should be beaten a minute between each addition. After every six tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a tea-spoonful of vinegar. WTien finished, the sauce should have the appearance of thick cream. Taste it before serving, to ascertain if the seasoning be agreeable. If the mayonnaise is made before it is to be used, it should be kept in a cool place. Time, an horn- to prepare the salad. Probable cost, from 3s. to 5s. Suflicient for a dozen persons. Lobster Salad (a German recipe), Arrange the lobster and the salad as in the last recipe. Boil two eggs until quite hard. Let them get cold, then cut the white part into slices, and lay them on the top of the salad, with a tablespoonful of bruised capers. Rub the yolks smoothly with the back of a spoon ; mix with them a raw egg, well beaten, a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, salt, pepper, and sugar, a shallot finely minced, and four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. The oil must be added in very small quantities at first, and the mixture well beaten between each addition. When well mixed and quite smooth, add one table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and, if the sauce is not sufficiently acid to suit the taste, add another spoonful of white wine vinegar. Toast tliree slices of the crumb of bread, cut them into small triangular pieces, butter them, spread a little caviar upon them, and put them round the salad. Pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to prepare, an hour. Probable cost, 3s. to os. Sufficient for six or eight j ersons. Lobster Salad Dressing. Sauce mayonnaise, as given in the last recipe but one, is the most suitable di'essing for lobster salad. LOB ( 390 ) LOB When oil is not liked, a dressing may be made as follows : Take the yolks of three eggs, which have been boiled hard and allowed to become cold. Eub them in a bowl with the back of a silver spoon until quite smooth. Add one teaspoonful of mixed mustard, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, one table- spoonful of cream, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Beat together until thoroughly mixed. A few drops of oil may be added or not. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lobster Sauce. Take a fine freshlyboiled hen lobster, with plenty of spawn in it. Pound the spa- -n and coral in a morta : with double the quantity of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, and press it thi'ough a hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. This is lobster butter. It ought to be of a bright red colom-. As it will keep for some time, any that is left should be put into a jar and kept in a cool, dry place until it is again wanted, as lobsters with spawn cannot always be obtained. Pick out the white meat, and tear it into flakes with two forks. A small quantity only will be required for the sauce, the rest may therefore be served up some other way {see Lobster Salad, Lobster Rissoles, Lobster Cutlets, &c.). Break the shell of the lobster into small pieces. Pom- three-quarters of a pint of water over these, and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced to haK a pint. MLx two oimces of fresh butter with an ounce of flour. Strain the half -pint of gravy upon it, and stir aU over the fire until the mixture thickens, but it must not boU. If despatch is necessary water may be used instead of gravy. Stir into the sauce as much lobster butter as will colour it brightl} add about a table-spoonful of the white meat, and, if liked, the juice of half a small lemon. Let it remain on the fire until the meat is quite hot. It must be remembered, however, that if it be allowed to boil the colour wiU be spoilt. A table-spoonful of cream is sometimes added. Time, two or three minutes to heat the sauce. Probable cost, small lobster, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster Sauce, Mock. AVhen lobster butter is in the house, lobster sauce may be easily made, and a little boiled turbot or sole, torn into flakes, may be used as a substitute for the lobster meat. If there is neither lobster butter nor cold fish, boil a thick fleshy sole. Take the meat from the bones while it is still warm, and when nearly cold smear it over with anchovy paste, or the essence of shrimps. Cut it into small pieces, stir it into the required quantity of melted butter, and when it is heated " through, serve immediately. Time, three or four minutes to heat the sauce. Probable cost, 6d. per half-pint. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Sauce Piquant for. Mix a salt-spoonful of raw mustard and a small pinch of salt and pepper smoothly with a dessertspoonful of cold water ; add gradually a quarter of a pint of best vinegar. Stir gently over the fire until the vinegar is hot, then put in two ounces of fresh butter, and serve. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster Sausages. Pick the flesh from a medium-sized freshly-boiled hen lobster. Mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, a httle salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and half of the coral, which has been pounded sei3arately, and pressed through a hair sieve with the back of a spoon. Shape the mixture into roUs like sausages, sprinkle the rest of the coral over them, and place them in a Dutch oven before a moderate fii-e until they are quite hot. Serve them on a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time, a quarter of an hour to heat. Probable cost of lobster, about Is. 6d. Sufficient for haK a dozen persons. Lobster, Scalloped. Take a freshlyboiled hon loljstfr. Divide the shell into halves without injuring it, take out all the meat, cut it into dice, and put it aside for a short time. Pound the spawn and coral in a mortar, with an ounce of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a blade of mace, pounded ; add a tea-spoonful of anchovy, two table- spoonfuls of white sauce, and a teaspoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir all gently over the fire for ten minutes, then put in the meat of the lobster and the yolks of two raw eggs. "When quite hot turn the mixture into the two halves of the lobster shells, strew bread-crumbs over, brown them with a salamander, and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster Soup. Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled hen lobster, cut it into squares, and set it in a cool place until wanted. Take away the brown fin and the bag in the head, and beat the small claws, the fins, and the chin in a mortar. Put them into a stewpan, and with them a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a stick of celery, the toasted crust of a French roU, a small strip of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a quart of good unseasoned stock. Simmer all gently together for three-quarters of an hour, then press the soup through a tamis, and return it again to the saucepan. Pound the spawn to a smooth paste, mix with it a teaspoonful of flour and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Stir these into the soup, add the pieces, and when quite hot, without boiling, serve. If hked, a few quenelles {see Lobster Quenelles) can be fried in butter, and put into the tureen before the soup is poured in. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster Soup (another way). Pick the meat from the claws, body, and tail of a medium-sized freshly-boiled lobster, cut it into small squares, and put it aside until wanted. Dissolve two ovmces of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in with it a carrot, an onion, four sticks of celery, and three shallots, aU sliced, together with a liunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a piece of lemon-rind. Turn these about in the butter for four- or five minutes, then mix well -with them six ounces of rice flour, add gradually three pints of good stock, and the bruised shell of the lobster. Simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. When the soup is on the pomt of boiling, stir in with LOB ( 391 ) LOV it the spawn, which has been well bruised in a mortar. Strain the soup thi-ough a tamis, return it again to the pan, and skim it thoroug?hlJ Add a glass of light wine, half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, a teaspoonful of good store sauce, a tea-spoonful of stoined lemon- juice, a little cayenne, and, if required, a pinch of salt. Fry some small quenelles {see Lobster Quenelles), put them into the tureen with the pieces of lobster meat, pour on the soup, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 2s. (id. Sufficient for fi\e or six persons. Lobster Soup, with Milk. Prepare the meat of the lobster as in the last recipe. Cut it very small, and mix with it the crumb of a French roll, finely grated. Put a pint and a half of milk and half a pint of water in a stewpan, season it with a dessert-spoonful of salt and a salt-spoonful of pepper ; put into it, when boiling, the lobster, the French roll, and thi-ee ounces of fresh butter. Simmer gently for half an houi', and serve. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster, Stewed. Pick the meat carefully from a medium-sized freshly -boiled lobster, cut it into dice, and put it in an enamelled stewiDan, with half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, half a grain of cayenne, two oimces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a dessert-sj)Oonful of vinegar. Stew gently for five or six minutes, then add a glassful of light wine, simmer two or three minutes longer, and serve. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Probable cost of lobster, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster, Vols-au-yent of, Small. Vols-au-vent are baked without moulds. They are rather difficult to make, and require great care. They should be made of the richest puff paste, rolled out seven times. Leave the paste about an inch in thickness, and stamp it in rounds with a plain or fluted cutter, about two inches in diameter. Dip a smaller cutter, about an inch and a quarter in diameter, into hot water, and press it partly through the paste, leaving a border all round. Bake in a brisk oven ; the vols-au-vent ought to rise considerably, and be lightly browned. When they are baked, scoop out the inside of the piece marked out, being careful to preserve the top for a cover, and turn them on a piece of clean writingpaper to drain and dry. When ready, fill them with a little minced lobster, prepared as for lobster patties, and serve neatly arranged on a napkin. If, after baking, the crust seems too light to hold the mixture, the inside may be strengthened by being brushed over with beaten egg. Time, about twenty minutes to bake the vols-au-vent. Probable cost, 3d. each. Locofoco Drink. This is one of the hot drinks peculiar to America. Whisk the yolks of two fresh eggs for three or four minutes, add a little grated nutmeg, an ounce of honey, and a small glass of cura(,'oa, and beat all together until thoroughly mixed. Add a pint of heated burgundy, and serve in g] London Candy. Butter the inside uf a preservuag-pan rather thickly with fresh butter, and have ready prepared two or three buttered plates, a pastry -board di-edged with flour, and a few strips of whity -brown paper. Put a quart of good treacle into the pan, and with it the grated rind and strained juice of a large, fresh lemon, a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Place the pan over a moderate fire, and let the treacle boil gently for some minutes. Keep dropping a little upon a buttered plate, and as soon as the ch-op hardens, pour out at once. Rub the hands with butter, and as soon as the candy is sufficiently cool, pull the candy out, and fold it over again and again imtil it is quite hard. Put it then on the floured board, and cut it with a buttered knife into narrow strips. Twine a piece of paper round each one of these, and store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost of treacle, 6d. London Syllabub. Put two ounces of loaf sugar wath three-cjuarters of a pint of sherry or madeira into a bowl, and grate half a small nutmeg into it. If practicable, milk into it from the cow a quart of milk ; if not, procure the milk as new as possible, make it lukewarm, and pour it from a good height through a strainer upon the wine. Serve the syUabub frothed. Time, two or three minutes to warm the milk. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lord Mayor's Trifle. Slice four penny spongecakes and lay them at the bottom of a deep trifle-dish. Put with them a dozen ratafias, eight macaroons, and two wine-glassfuls of brandy. When the liquor is soaked up, spread a layer of strawberry or raspberry jam over the spongecakes, and cover them with a pint of rich cold custard. Pile whipped cream high over the top, and ornament with pink comfits. The cream should be whipped some hours before it is needed, and laid upon a reversed sieve to drain. Time, about an hour to whip the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lorne Soup. Put three pints of good stock into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, a smaU sprig of lemon-thyme, a bunch of parsley, and a httle pepper and salt. Simmer gently for half an hour. Pick all the white meat from the remains of a cold roast chicken, mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, the crumb of half a French roll which has been soaked in milk and then pressed dry, and two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. Strain the soup, and return it again to the saucepan. Stir the pounded ingredients thoroughly into it, simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve. Probable cost, Is. per quart, exclusive of the roast chicken. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Love Apple {sec Tomato). Love Cakes. Beat up four eggs with a small tea-cupful of good yeast and half a pint of wai-m milk. Make a hollow in the centre of a pound and a half of flour, throw in the mixture, and stir aU together into a dough ; beat this dough, and put to it by degrees a K LOZ (092) MAC pound of 'butter, and when thoroughly kneaded let it stand an horn- to rise, then mix ?with it half a pound of sifted sugar, and bake in small cakepans, previously buttered. Cut candied orange or lemon-peel, and ornament the top. Time, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Lozenges, Black Currant {see Black Currant LozengLs). Lozenges, Lemon (we Lemon Lozenges). Lozenges, Plum, for Dessert (see Plum Lozenges). Luncheon. This is a kind of intermediate meal, and therefore not unfrequently an unnecessary one. "The English labourer," " says a medical authority, ' ' has his ' lunch ' between breakfast and dinner, and again between the latter meal and supper; the English of the higher classes, particularly if their time is not well occupied, are apt to make luncheons a kind of dinner a meal of animal food and stimulants, which, if superadded to dinner, is certainly unnecessary, and therefore productive of disease. Either the luncheon should be made a hona fide dinner, at an early hour, or it should be a meal without animal food, provided, of course, that an additional amount of animal nutriment is not considered necessary by a medical man, as a remedial measure. Fruit is generally more wholesome at luncheon than in any other part of the day." Luncheon Cake. Any good plain cake may be used as a luncheon cake, nevertheless recipes arc here given for two or three. Rub half a pound of fresh butter into three-quarters of a pound of fine flovu' ; add a quarter of a pound of ground rice, a pinch of salt, half a pound of moist sugar, four ounces of currants, picked and washed, half an ounce of caraway seeds, if liked, half a nutmeg, grated, and an ounce of candied lemon cut into thin slices. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in half a pint of boiling milk. Let it cool, then stii- into it three eggs well beaten. Moisten the cake with the liquid, and be careful to mix all very thoroughly. Butter a tin, and line the sides with buttered paper. Put in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when the cake is done, push a skewer to the bottom of it, and when it comes out clear and ch-y the cake is done enough. Let it stand entire for two days before cutting. Time to bake, an hotu' and a quarter. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Luncheon Cake, Irish {see Irish Luncheon Cake). Luncheon Cake made from Dough. Take two pounds of dough just ready for the oven, rub into it two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter of a i ound of currants, washed, picked, and dried thoroughly, half a pound of moist sugar, and half a large nutmeg, grated, with a little sliced candied lemon, if liked. These ingredients should be rubbed into the dough very lightly. Put the mixture into a basin, cover it with a cloth, and let it stand in a warm place to rise. Then knead the dough, butter some tins, three-parts fill them with "the cake, let it rise for a fc?- minutes, and bake in a moderate oven. If bread is not made at home, a little dough may be procured from the baker's. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Luncheon Cake, Plain. Mix two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and a pinch of salt with one pound of flour ; rub in four ounces of good beef di-ipi ing, add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, six ounces of currants, picked and stoned, half a nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, if liked. Make the mixture up into a paste with two eggs and half a pint of milk, bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven. This cake is better if left for a day before it is cut into. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 9d. Lyonnaise Sauce for Cutlets, feeCut the stalks from half a dozen large ripe tomatoes. Divide them into halves, and put them into a stewpan with four table-spoonfuls of good gravy and a little salt and cayenne, and let them simmer very gently. When quite tender, press them tlu'ough a hair sieve. Slice two Spanish onions very iinely, fry them in a little fresh butter until they are soft and very lightly browned, then put them into a stewpan with the tomato-pulp, two table-spoonfuls of good brown gravy, and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Stir gently over the fire for thi'ee or four minutes, and serve hot. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the tomatoes. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. M Mab's Pudding {see Queen Mab's Pudding). Macaroni. This is a peculiar paste or dough, prepared from wheat flour, and manufactui-ed into tubes or ribbons. It is an Italian invention, and though made by a simple process, has never been produced with such success in any other country. The grain grown in the southern districts of Europe is said to be the best suited to its manufactui-e, through its possessing a greater amount of gluten than any other sort of grain. The wheat, after being thoroughly washed, is freed from the husks, and ground in water-mills ; when hot, water is added, tiU it is of the consistency of stiff dough. Five different qualities of flour are obtained by five separate siftings, the last giving the finest and most delicate that can be made. The dough is kneaded by means of a wooden pole, attached to a post fixed in the ground, and worked up and down as a lover, under one end of which the paste is placed. Or the kneading may be accomplished by the less agreeable process of piling up the dough and treading it out with the feet, after which it is rolled ?with a rollingpin. In making the dough into tubes and ribbons, a hollow cjdindrical cast-iron vessel is used, ha\'ing the bottom perforated with holes or sUts. This is filled with the paste. Then a l iece of wood or a hea -y ii'on plate is brought down upon it by means of a screw, and in this manner the paste is forced thi'ough the MAC ( 393 ) MAC holes, and receives the shape of the perforations. The mactironi is partially baked as it issues from these holes, by a fire placed below the cylinder, and as it descends is drawn away and himg on rods, placed across the room, where in a few days it dries so as to be fit for use. The manufactui-e of macaroni is an important Italian industry, the article being not only largely consumed at home, but exported in considerable quantities to all parts of the world. In Geneva alone about 170,000 quintals of wheat are employed every year in its manufacture. The finest sorts of macaroni are the whitest in colour, and those which do not burst or break up in boiling. In the boiling process, macaroni should swell considerably, and become quite soft, but it should retain its form, otherwise one may conclude that it has not been made of the best wheat. Occasionally macaroni is flavoured and coloui'ed with saffron and turmeric, to suit certain palates. Macaroni (a la Pontiffe). Boil eight ounces of long straight ribbon macaroni in the usual way, but fifteen minutes will be enough to swell it, which is all that is needed. Drain ?n a sieve, and when drained put a neat layer of it as a lining over a weU-buttered mould ; cover next with a quenelle forcemeat of fowl or rabbit, and fill the mould vnth game or poultry, boned and filleted, some larks, also boned, and rolled with thin bits of bacon inside each, and some dehcate strips or pieces cut into rounds about the size of a shilling, distributed with egg-balls and button mushrooms, previously simmered in gravj', in the mould. Thicken the gravy, a little of which use to moisten the whole, cover with macaroni, and simmer, but do not boil, for an hour. Probable cost, od. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni (a la Eeine). Boil according to the preceding recipe half a pound of pipe macaroni. Meanwhile warm slowly in a stewpan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne, and a little salt. Stir until the cheese is melted, and the whole is free from lumps, when put in the macaroni, and move it gently round the pan until rruxed and hot, or put the macaroni on a hot dish, and pom- the sauce over. It may be covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour, and dried in a Dutch oven. Time, about three-quarters of an hour". Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Macaroni and Game Pie {see Game and Macaroni Pie). Macaroni (au Gratin). Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, boil as usual, and draia. Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce bechamel or white sauce. Move the stewpan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the butter. Sec, then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished AN-ith croutons. Pile it in the shape of a dome, 26 cover with bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run thi'ough a colander, and brown very Hghtly with a salamander. Time, threequarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Macaroni (au vin). Boil two ounces of macaroni from twenty to thirty minutes. Drain on a sieve before the fire. Put into a stewpan two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, a lump of butter, and as much Parmesan, grated, as vnB. make it, when melted, of the consistency of custard. Add the macaroni, and toss well in the pan together. Have ready a French roll that has been steeped in about a pint of wine it should have been rasped so that no brown crust remains on it. Pour the macaroni hot over the roll, and brown with a salamander. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni, Boiled (a I'ltalienne). Macaroni being a national article of food, the mode of cooking it is best xmderstood in Italy. A better acquaintance -with the Italian mode will, we hope, enable English cooks to convert a dish of macaroni into a wholesome ani delicious preparation, such as is met with on the Continent. Dishes of macaroni, with tomatoes, truffles, game, or fish, are all good, and there is a great variety to be found in the preceding recipes, such as Macaroni a la Pontific, a la Peine, au Gratin, au vin, &c., but one rule should be observed in the boiling of the macaroni. The following recipe, if properly attended to, will insure success; Put five or six oimces of the best Italian macaroni into plenty of boiling water, not less than three pints, a salt-spoonful of salt, and one of fine pepper; simmer for twenty minutes, and drain. After this first boiling, which should be observed in the prepaiation of aU dishes, return the macaroni to the stewpan, with half a pint of gravy or broth, aceordang to the richness required, and simmer until the macaroni has imbibed aU the liquid. Have ready grated of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, mixecl, a quarter of a pound. Put half the quantity with the macaroni until nearly melted, then add the rest, and an ounce of butter. Move the contents of the pan round in one direction until the cheese has been well incorporated and dissolved in the macaroni. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve. In this way macaroni is eaten at most of the best tables in Leghorn and Florence. Time, three-quarters of an hoiir. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Macaroni, Cheese with (see Cheese with Macaroni). Macaroni Cordial. This favourite French liqueur is thus prepared : Put half an ounce of the oil of bitter almonds into half a pint of spirits of wine ; shake up the mixture every day for two or three days ; then infuse it for ten days, with one ounce of Spanish angehca root in three gallons of brandy, one draclun of the essence of lemon, three quarts of clarified sugar, two quarts of milk-flour water, and five quarts of soft water ; last of all, filter the whole through a bag. MAC (394) MAC Macaroni, Croquettes of. To a teacupful of boiled pipe macaroni add about two ounces of meat from a roast pheasant, partridge, hare, or any game, a slice of lean ham, a few mushrooms, or a truffle. Mince separately, and mix these ingi-edients together. Boil a breakfastcupful of good white sauce until reduced to a quarter of a pint, then simmer in it for a few minutes a salt-spoonful of shallot, chopped fine, a salt-spoonful of sugar, and one of pepper and nutmeg, mixed; lastly, stir in two or three yolks of eggs, and, when those have set, the juice of half a lemon. This sauce may now be thrown over the mince, mixed with it, and allowed to cool, when egg-shaped balls may be made in a table-spoon, and completed by the hand. Fry -svith egg and bread-crumlDS in boiling lard from eight to ten minutes. Serve with fried parsley as a garnish. Sufficient for a dish. Macaroni Dressed in the English Fashion. Ribbon or pipe macaroni may be used, and either boiled in milk, broth, or "water. To four ounces of macaroni so boiled, add three ounces of grated cheese and a little salt ; half the quantity of cheese is often mixed ?with the macaroni, and the remainder is put over the top, with grated bread-crumbs and a little clarified butter. Brown in an oven, or with a salamander. Ivitchener remarks on this mode of dressing, ' ' that the butter and cheese generally get burned, and in this state macaroni is unwholesome." Macaroni (en Timbale) . Boil eight ounces of macaroni in the usual way, and drain them well. Have ready minced the white moat of a cold roast fowl, and a slice or two of lean ham; mix with two table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan, and moisten with nearly half a pint of thick cream, and the beaten yolks and whites of throe eggs. Cover a well-buttered mould with some of the macaroni, and mix the remainder, cut into neat lengths, ?with the meat, with which mixture fiU the mould, and steam for three-quarters of an hour. A pudding paste is sometimes substituted for the lining of macaroni, but in either case steaming is better than boUing. Serve, turned out of the mould, and with a good gra vy. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Macaroni Fish. Cold cod is most often used for this dish. Separate three ounces of the fish into small flakes, or chop it very finely, if preferred. Mix it ?with six ounces of macaro-ni, boiled and drained as before indicated, and three ounces of grated cheese. Toss it togetiier for a few minutes in a stewpan, ?with a good lump of buttor, or turn it out at once on a hot dish ?with more grated cheese over the top, to be bro svned with a salamander. Scollops of salmon or stui-goon, cooked en timhale, are highly appreciated. Time, one hour to prepare ; twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil macaroni. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni in Scollop Shells. Boil eight ounces of macaroni from twenty-five to thirty minutes in the usual way, but throw it into cold water, then drain, and cut into half inch 'lengths. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, stir in a little fiour, and add a small cup of rich gravy, ?with a little grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful of salt, and one of pepper. Toss the macaroni with two or thi-ee ounces of grated Parmesan into the sauce, shake and mix it well over the fire, then fill scoUop shells, or any fancy shapes, ?with the mixture, wliich cover with more grated cheese, run clarified butter or spread sardine butter over the top, and bake quickly, or brown before the fire. Macaroni Nudels. Nudel paste, like Italian macaroni, to which it is nearly allied, is a "home-made" preparation of eggs and flour, useful in a variety of ways, and equally applicable to sweet and savoury dishes. It is made thus : Take as many eggs as wUl be required for the quantity of paste to be made, but use only the whites of eggs if preferred quite wliitc. Work in as much flour to two weUbcatcn eggs as vill make a stiff dough, knead until smooth, and roU out, first dividing the mass into six parts, and each part into a round ball, on a pasteboard kept well dredged with flom-. A perfectly straight rolling-pin is one of the requisites to perfect nudel making. The desii-ed thinness to which the paste is to be rolled may be best illustrated by the saying, ' ' That to arrive at the perfection of nudel rolling is to be able to read thi-ough the paste." Ha\Tng accomplished this, dry each cake on a napkin a few minutes wiU do this commence with the first rolled cake by cutting it into equal halves and quarters. Lay one quarter on the other, make the cut edges meet equally, and with a sharp knife cut through in as thread-like a manner as possible, then dry by scattering them they will separate ; or the paste rolled, as before indicated, is cut with a tin-cutter int9 stars, rings, &c., which may be stamped out, and piled one cake on the other; they ?will separate on being thro-wn into boUing soup. Macaroni Nudels, To Boil. To boil nudels, throw them into boiling water, slightly salted ; from ten to fifteen minutes will be long enough. Strain, and lay them on a shallow, weU-butterod dish, -with bits of butter and grated Parmesan cheese in alternate layers, finishing with the cheese. Bro-wn lightly in the oven, or put the nudels before the fire, and bro-wn -with a salamander. Tape or broad nudels are best for this dish. Sufficient, half a pound of nudels to a quarter of a pound of cheese. Macaroni, Pate of. Boil six or eight ounces of macaroni in good veal broth, drain, and cut it into equal lengths of two inches. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with macaroni, and on this lay a quenelle of forcemeat or hamballs, if preferred, placed equally -with any kind of poultry or game, boned and in fillets, sweetbreads, cockscombs, or ox-palates, pre?viously stewed -with truffles or mushrooms, and minced. Put these with alternate layers of the macaroni and meat, and an equal quantity of cream and rich gravy to fill the dish. Bake with a crust over the top, or -without a crust ; make hot and bro-wn before the fire. Parmesan cheese should accompany this dish, or it MAC ( 395 MAC may be mixed with the macaroni. Time, fifteen minutes to swell the macaroni ; to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Macaroni, Pate of (another way). See Pate of Macaroni. Macaroni Pie. Boil four ounces of macaroni in veal broth or beef bouillon, put part of it over the bottom of a pie-dish, and cover sparingly with grated cheese and an ounce of butter in small bits. l Iince a shallot finely, and a few mushrooms ; mix some salt, a blade of mace, pounded, a little pepper, and a small jjinch of cayenne. Season a pound and a half of steak with these in gredients. Cut it from the fiUet small and thin ; lay the steaks alternately with the macaroni into the dish, covering with macaroni and grated cheese. Run clarified butter over the top, and bake in a slow oven for an hour. Probable cost of beef, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Macaroni, Portuguese, Sweet. Soak three ouncos of macaroni for an hour before it is required to be prepared. Put it into a bowl, and throw a quart of cold water over it. When wanted, drain on a sieve, and when dry, put it into an enamelled saucepan, to simmer over a slow fire, with a quart of milk and an inch of vanilla to flavour. Stir it occasionally to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the pan, and remove the vanilla as soon as the flavour has been imparted. The macaroni wiQ require nearly two houi-s to simmer. Sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and stir until dissolved, then draw it from the fire, and add, separately and slowly, five eggs, well beaten, and, lastly, when again heated to the boiling point, a glass of brandy or rum, and a small cup of thick cream. The macaroni must not boU. Stir it tmtil the heat has gone off, and when cool put it into a glass dish, and in a cold place. Serve when quite cold with macaroons, whole or pounded, over the top. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of brandy. Sufficient for five persons. Macaroni Pudding. Simmer slowly two ounces and a half of macaroni in a pint of milk, sweetened with sugar, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Put an edging of puif paste round a pie-dish, and to the boiled macaroni add four well-beaten eggs, a glassful of rum, brandy, or wine, and another pint of milk. Mix the eggs, brandy, and sugar together, and add them to the macaroni. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour and tbjee-quarters. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Macaroni Pudding, Parisian. Simmer six ounces of macaroni for fifteen minutes in water salted slightly. Drain, and cut it into pieces of equal length. Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mince the white moat of a chicken, or the breast and merrj'thought of a fine fowl, a slice or two of boded ham, quite free from fat, a pinch of salt, if necessary, and a very little pepper. Moisten the mince with a cup of thick cream, and two table-spoonfiils of rich gravy-. Stir the macaroni with the mince, add ttie yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, and steam for three-quarters of an hour in a buttered mould. Servo with a rich veal grav ', flavoured with onion and tarragon, and more grated cheese in a dish. Sufficient for three or fotir persons. Macaroni Pudding, Plain. Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom with about two and a half ounces of uncooked macaroni. Pour over it one quart of cold nulk made sweet. Stir in a couple of well-beaten eggs, and flavour with any essence liked, ratafia or vanilla. Put bits of butter over the top, and a little grated nutmeg. Bake in a slow oven for thi-ee hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Macaroni Pudding, with Almonds. Blanch an ounce of sweet and four or five bitter almonds ; cut them small, and soak them with foui" ounces of macaroni broken into inch lengths in a quart of milk. In an hoirr or two, when the macaroni has well soaked, simmer it over a slow fire, adding a pint of cream or nulk, and as much sugar pounded loaf as will sweeten (say about four oimces). When the pudding has simmered and cooled, stir in two ounces of butter in bits, and six well-beaten eggs. Pour the mixture, which should be beaten for some minutes, into a buttered piedish, and bake in a moderate oven, with cinnamon or grated nutmeg over the top. Time to simmer mararoni, three-quarters of an hour ; to bake, about one hour. Macaroni Quenelles. The macaroni for quenelles should be boiled in veal broth until soft. Grated Parmesan is then mixed with it in about equal quantities, and then both are beaten to a smooth paste in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, dissolved, and with flour sufficient to absorb the butter. Add a blade of mace, pounded, and a pinch of cayenne, with as much cream as will make the above ingredients into a smooth mass. Shape the quenelles in a tea-spoon, and boil in stock, about three minutes before the soup for which they are intended is ready for serving. Put them into the tureen. Time, haK an hour to boil macaroni ; quarter of an hour to stew with cheese. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient, four ounces of macaroni, and the same of cheese. Macaroni, SavouJ r (a Genoese recipe). To eight ounces of macaroni, boiled slowly for twenty minutes in salted water, put a quart of stock, and simmer again, but not imtil it has been well drained from the first boiling. When the stock is well absorbed by the macaroni, and the latter is quite tender, mix a dessert-spoonful of unmade mustard with an ounce of butter, add it with quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, a seasoning of cayenne (about a couple of grains), and as much white pepper as can be put on a sixpence. Turn the macaroni out on a hot dish, cover thickly with Parmesan, and again with very thin slices of butter, and bake to a pale coloui'. Time, in stock, one hour or more ; to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Macaroni Soup. This soup is easily prepared, and at short notice. Boil some macaroni for twenty-five or thirty minutes in MAC ( 396 ) MAC boiling water salted a little. Drain in a colander, and have ready boiling two quarts of clear stock. Cut the macaroai into two-inch lengths, or into rings, and boil in the stock for a few minutes. Send gi-ated Parmesan to table on a di.sh. Probable cobt, Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Macaroni Soup, Italian {sec Italian Macaroni Soup). Macaroni, with Chestnuts. Roast a dozen tine chestnuts in their shells, peel and pound them to a paste. Season with a small teaspoonful of salt, and put them with eight ounces of macai-oni, previously boiled and drained, according to the recipe given for boiling macaroni, into a stewpan : add three oimces of butter and a large onion, uncut. Shake the whole well together, and stir round in the pan for ten or twelve minutes. If dry, pour in a table-spoonful of milk, and mix again until hot, when remove the onion, and dish the macaroni. Brown lightly in the oven, or before the hre, well covered with equal quantities of grated Parmesan and fine bread-cnimbs. Butter should be run over the top. Macaroni with Tomatoes. Boil four ounces of macaroni (sec Macaroni, Boiled), but in veal broth instead of water. Skin four fine fresh mutton kidneys, fry them lightly in butter, lift them from the stewpan, and mince them finelJ INIake a gravy in the same pan, adding a dessert-spoonful of brown flour, hjilf a pint of rich gravy, a couple of shallots, minced, and a pinch of cayenne. Stew the minced kidneys in this gravy for ten minutes, when part of the macaroni, which should have been kept warm, may be mi.xed and tossed in the pan for a few minutes to absorb the gi'avy. Serve turned out on a hot dish, arrange the remainder of the macaroni on the top, and pour hot tomato sauce over. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for two persons. Macaroon Biscuits. This delicate almond biscuit is easily made by experienced hands, but home-made delicate pastry is seldom so successful as when purchased of a respectable baker. After blanching and drjang the almonds, a few bitter, say eight or nine, with half a pound of sweet ones, jjound them in a mortar, ?with the whites of eggs added sparingly from time to time, and beaten previously to a fii-m froth. When well pounded and mixed, beat in also by degrees, six ounces of the finest sifted sugar, with the white of another egg or two, until the mixture is of the consistency required, then drop it through a biscuit-funnel upon sheets of wafer-paper, and bake in a moderate oven for about eighteen minutes. A strip of almond may be put on the toj) of each cake. Probable cost, 2s. Macaroon Biscuits, Bitter (a German recipe). Pound four ounces of blanched and dried sweet almonds, and the same weight of bitter one , with the wliite of an egg frothed and mixed in at two separate times while pounding, then add twelve ounces of fine sugar, and another white of egg, and, when well mixed, another frothed white, and stir aU lightly together. Drop the mixture from a biscuitfunnel or a tea-spoon upon some wafer-paper, and bake the macaroons a pale cinnamon colour in a slow oven for about eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Macaroon Cakes. Blanch, diy, and pound an ounce of sweet and a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, and cut two ounces into small bits, ' len pounding the almonds, moisten with a tea-spoonful of brandy. Beat two eggs to a froth, and rub the almonds to a paste with them. Add to the cut almonds threequarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon. ]Mix all together with the frothed whites of three eggs, and beat until the mass has become firm, when drop from a dcssert-sj oon upon writing-paper, and mould into cakes about the size of a crown-piece. Bake these of a pale colour- in a gentle oven for about eighteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Macaroon Jubes. Blanch, dry, and pound six ounces of sweet almonds, and mix together eight ounces of powdered sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir these with the frothed whites of four eggs to a paste. Butter some baking-tins, spread the paste thinly over, and bake in a slow oven. When done to a pale colour, and while still hot, mould them round a stick about an inch and a half in diameter. Eemove them when cool to a canister to keep crisp. Macaroon Pudding. Soften eight ounces of macaroons by pouring a pint of boiling cream over them, and then covering them until cold. Break four eggs, yolks and whites separately, add to the yolks two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a glass of rum or brandy, and beat the whites to a froth. Beat the macaroons smooth with a wooden spoon, mix in the egg-yolks, sugar, and brandy, and, lastly, just before baking, stii- in lightly the whites of the eggs. Fill to about half some small cups, and bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of brandy. Macaroon Pyramids. iSIake a strong cement by dissolving about two ounces of gum arable and half a pound of loaf sugar, pounded, in a wine-glassful of water. Stir this over the fire until quite dissolved, when use it hot. Have ready some macaroons, and fix a tin mould where it will stand firmly, smear it well with butter, and use the cement to cover the outside of the mould, which has been buttered, with the macaroons. Commence from the bottom upwards, always remembering to see each row of macaroons firm and cold before putting on another. Remove fi-om the mould when firmly set, and fill with whipped cream or with crystallised fruits. Probable cost of macaroons, Is. 8d. per pound. Macaroon Souflie. Dissolve four ounces of finely-powdered sugar in a small tea-cupful of cream, add two table-sjjoonfuls of brandy, and pour it, when on the point of boiling, over a quarter of a pound of macaroons. Have ready six eggs, well beaten, yolks and whites separately, stii" the yolks with an ounce of good fresh butter in bits into the mixtiu-e when cool, and when ready to bake, mix the frothed. MAC ( 397 ) MAC whites of the eggs. Serve hot from the oven before the egg can fall. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 7cl. iSuihcient for a small dish. Macaroons {see Almond Cakes or Macaroons) . Macaroons, Cocoa-nut (we Cocoa-nut Macaroons) . Macaroons, Italian (? e Italian Macaroons) . Macaroons, Pistachio {see Pistachio Macaroons) . Mace. This is one of the pleasantest and most used of spices. It is the outer covering of the nutmeg. JNIace is di-ied previous to its being packed tight in bags. Its general quaUties are the same as those of nutmeg ; it has an agreeable aromatic odour, and a hot biting taste. When fresh, mace is blood-red, and somewhat fleshy. It is prepared for the maiket by drying it in the sun for some days, and flattening it. The outer covering of a species of nujristlca, different from the true nutmeg, but coarse and very inferior, is sometimes sold as mace. When partaken of to excess, mace produces determinai' of blood to the head, and occasions intellectual disturbance. Mackerel. The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fish. It sometimes attains to the length of twenty inches, but usually is about fourteen or sixteen inches long, and about two pounds in weight. Mackerel is in great demand as an article of food, but to be partaken of in perfection it should be perfectly fresh. No fish spoils more rapidly. The common idea respecting macierel is, that they are in best condition when fullest of roe; at that time, however, though not impoverished, they have little flavour. It is in the early part of the season, when the roe is not yet full grown, that mackerel have most flavour. In France, and some other parts of Europe, mackerel are often salted. Mackerel (;i la Poulette). Cut large mackerel into three pieces, after being emptied, cleansed, and drained. If there be roes, dry and dredge them, as well as the fish, with flour. Make a srasonin ; of finely-chopped MACKEREL, onion, parsley, pepper, and salt, scalding the parsley and onions first. Lay the pieces of fish, but not the heads or tails, into a stewjDan ; sprinkle the seasoning equally over each layer, add an ounce of butter in bits, and a small cup of veal broth, but only enough to prevent the fish sticking to the bottom of the stewpan. Close the lid of the stewpan tightly until the mackerel is done, which will be in about half an hour. Some of the seasoning should be kept for the top, and some bits of butter. Place the fish on a dish, keep it warm before the fire, until the sauce is thickened. Make it boil up again, and add more pepper or salt, if requiied. Have readybeaten two yolks of eggs, remove the sauce from the fire, and stir them with half a tablespoonful of \Tnegar into it. When smooth and thick, pour it over the fish. Mackerel, Baked. Get quite fresh mackerel ; they may be known by their almost silvery brightness. If stale, they are limp in body, and red and dull-looking about the eyes and head. No fish can be more unwholesome when stale, and mackerel keep worse than any other fish. Djdng almost immediately after being taken fiom their native element, they should be used as soon as possible. They are good cooked in many ways. When baked, they should be cleaned, and the roes taken out, to be filled with a forcemeat delicately prepared, as follows : Put into a basin four ounces of breadcrumbs, two ounces of butter broken into bits, haK a tea-spoonful of savoury herbs, a little chopped parsley, an anchovy boned and pounded, pepper, salt, and cayenne, and an egg to cement. Onion, in very small quantity, and shred yery fine, may be added if the flavour be liked. Fill the fish with the forcemeat, lay them neatly into a dish, with small bits of butter, pepper, and salt. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven, serve with maitre d'hotel sauce or plain melted butter. The roes should be placed in the baking-dish with the fish. Probable cost, 28. Four fish sufficient for six persons. Mackerel, Baked (another way). A quick and simple way of baking mackerel : Put four or six middle-sized fish, after being washed and well dried, into a baking-dish, back downwards, and rounded so as to make the heads and tails meet ; put the roes with them, and some flour and Ijutter blended together in the proportion of half an oimce of butter and half a teaspoonful of flour to each fish. Add a little salt and cayenne, a small glassful of port or sherry, and enough chilli vinegar to flavour. Bake with some bits of butter over the top, and a buttered paper pressed tightly down without crushing the fish. It is economical to remove the heads and a little of the tails of the fish before baking. Mackerel, Boiled. Wash and clean carefully, after removing the roes. The mackerel is in its greatest perfection when there is little roe. Lay the fish and roes separately into cold water, and to a gallon of water add from three to four ounces of salt and two tablespoonfuLs of white 'inegar; when at boiling point, skim, and simmer only until done. Much depends on the size of the fish. Remove at once when done, or from their great deHcacy of skin they will crack if kept in the water. The usual test, when the eyes start and the tail splits, should be attended to. Serve on a napkin with the roe, and fennel or anchovy sauce in a tureen. Time, about ten minutes after the water boils. Probable cost, 3d. to 4d. I each. MAC ( 898 ) MAC Mackerel, Broiled. Large fresh fish should be procuxod for broiling. Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and diy in a cloth, or hang it up in the air. SpHt down the back, rub the inside with a little salt and cayenne mixed, and smear with clarified butter or good oil. Put it into a thickly-buttered paper, loosely fastened at each end, and broil over a clear fire, or it may be broiled without the paper, though the former mode renders the fish so cooked more delicate, and not so apt to disagree with the stomach as when exposed to the fire uncovered. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes in paper; twenty to fifteen minutes to broil without paper. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Mackerel Broiled, and Tarragon Butter. Kemove the inside of the fish thi-ough the gills and vent vithout opening it. "Wash, clean, dry, and make a deep incision down the back ; lay the fish in a little salad-oil ; keep it well basted for about three-quarters of an hour, but cut off the nose or part of the head and tail before it is steeped in the oil. BroU over a clear fire, and when done, have ready the follo ving mixture, with which fill up the incision: Work a little butter, pepper, salt, and taiTagon-leaves chopped and steeped in vinegar together. When ready, serve the mackerel with some of the butter spread over it OH a hot dish. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to broil. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Mackerel, Caveach.. Divide large fresh fish, -after being well cleansed and dried in a cloth, into five pieces, and rub each piece with spice as follows : Pound an ounce of black pepper and six blades of mace, mix them when pounded with two ounces of salt, and half an ounce of grated nutmeg. Use all the above spices for six fish, rubbing weU in, that every piece may be thoroughly seasoned with spice, then fry in oil. Drain, and put the fish neatly into a jar, which fill with good vinegar, adding clarified butter or oil to exclude the air. Tie down closely. Mackerel so prepared will keep for sLx months. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Mackerel,' Fillets of. Put a tea-cupful of stock and bechamel sauce mixed into a stewpan. Add a lump of butter, about an ounce, some chopped parsley pre\'iously scalded, salt, and cayenne. Cut two fine fresh mackerel into fillets, having first well cleansed them. Put the fillets into the sauce, and simmer over a slow fire until done, when place them on a hot dish before the fire. Thicken with a little flour, boU it up, and throw it over the fillets, with a squeeze of lemon-juice, if liked. Time to simmer, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 7d. Mackerel, Fillets of, Stewed (another way). Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with nearly a dessert-spoonful of flour, and mix them together until smooth. Add half the rind of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of soy, a salt-spoonful of pounded mace, haK a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Into this sauce place fillets from two fresh mackerel. Shake the pan over the fire to get the fish ! equally covered with the sauce, turning them in about eight or ten minutes. When they are done enough, remove the fillets to a hot dish, boil up the sauce with a couple of glassfuls of port, and pour it hot over the fish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of wine. Sufficient for thi'ce persons. Mackerel, Fried, French. Bone thiee fme mackerel, remo%Tng the heads and tails, dry them well in a cloth, or rub a little flour into them, so as to remove all moisture, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry lightly in either butter or lard. They should be of a fine golden colour, and well drained. Place them on a dish, and either pour the following sauce over them, or serve in a tureen: Stew the bones of the fish in half a pint of stock, add a thickening of butter and browned flour, say, one ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of flour, well worked up together, the juice of a lemon, and a little browning to colour it. Or, if preferred, serve the fish with mustard-sauce, in. which a table-spoonful of some good store sauce, such as Reading, Worcester, or Harvey, has been stirred. Time, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mackerel, Pickled. Boil six mackerel in salt and water ; when done, take them up, and lay them in a deep earthenware dish. Add three-quarters of a pint of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of whole black pepper, and three bay-leaves to the liquor the fish was cooked in. Let it boU for seven or eight minutes, and when quite cold, pour it over the mackerel, cover down tightly, and in twenty-four hours the fish will be ready for use. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Mackerel Pie. Clean three middling-sized mackerel, take out the melts and roes, which use in the composition of a forcemeat to stuff the fish. Add bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, a small bit of onion, if liked, mace, pepper, salt, a little butter, and an egg or two to cement the whole. Sew up the fish neatly, and lay them into an ordinary oval flat dish, with an edging of good mashed potatoes or a puff crust. Balls of forcemeat will enrich the dish, and some rich sauce may be poured over the fish when baked ; but both forcemeat and sauce should be delicately prepared. Cover with bread-crumbs, and put butter, in bits, over the fish. Time, half an hour, or more. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for four Mackerel, Potted. Make a seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace, in the proportion of a quarter of an ounce of white pepper to half the quantity of pounded mace, and an ounce of salt. Put a layer of well-cleaned split mackerel, divested of heads, tails, and fins, into a potting-dish, and sprinkle over it part of the above seasoning. Lay the skin side do vTiwards, and on the top of the seasoning l)lace about an ounce of butter, in bits ; fill up with the fish to withia an inch or two of the top, and pour clarified butter to finish. Bake in a moderate oven for one ho\ir. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. MAC ( 399 ) MAG Mackerel, Roasted. Make a seasoning of breiid-crumbs, oysters, and a little of theiiliquor, parsley, onion, cloves, mace, pepper, and salt ; the parsley and onion to bo chojpped very fine, and the cloves and mace to be pounded. AVork to a paste with butter, and fill the fish ; sew up very neatly, and roast before the fire, basting with butter until done. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Mackerel Roe, Sauce of. Get roes from the male fish (soft ones). Boil two or thi-ee for ten minutes in water, then pound them with the yolks of two eggs. Have ready some fennel sauce, or parsley and butter, into which stir the mackerel roe, adding a little walnut ketchup, pepper, salt, and vinegar, if required. The butter must be thin enough to allow of the thickening quality of the roes and egg-yolks. Time, ten minutes to boil. Mackerel Sauce, Gooseberry {see Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel) . Mackerel Sauce, or Fennel Sauce. Pick) fennel from the stalks, and boil it for a minute, or two in boiling salted water, then chop it fine. Mix and blend well two dessert spoonfuls of baked flour with nearly a quarter of a pound of butter, put it into a saucepan with haK a pint of boiliiig water, and stir until thick, add two dessert-spoonfuls of fennel, and serve hot in a tureen. Mackerel roes (soft ones) boiled and bruised well with yolk of egg may be added to the sauce, stirred in -ith the fennel. Time, ten minutes to simmer butter. Sufficient for a tureen. Mackerel, Soused. Boil, without breaking, two or three middle-sized mackerel, remove the bones, first splitting them carefully down the back. Siinmer gently in a pint of vinegar and water mixed, in equal quantities, a bay-leaf, half a dozen whole pejipers, two Jamaica peppers, a pinch of cayenne, and a little salt. Pour this liquor when cold over the fish : if put in a deep dish they will be covered with it, and should not be served until they have steeped some hours. Serve, with fennel as a garnish, on a flat dish. Time, fifteen minutes to boil. Simmer spice for five minutes. Mackerel, with fine Herbs. Rub butter over a baking-tin, and cover the bottom with a mince of fine herbs, about a dozen small mushrooms, four shallots, and a little parsley, which shoidd be first fried and seasoned with pejDper and salt. Lay the fish neatly trimmed on the herbs, and cover with fine bread-crumbs ; moisten with a little good gravy, or white wine, and put lastly some bits of butter over the crumbs. Bake in a gentle oven, and serve bro-mied with a salamander ; squeeze a little lemon- juice over. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to Gd. each. Two mackerel will be sufficient for three persons. Mackerel, with Wine, Stewed. Stew tliree small mackerel or two large ones in a sauce made in the follo ?ing manner : Dissolve a piece of butter about the size of an egg, in an enamelled stewpan ; when melted stir in a tea-spoonful of flour, a salt-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a blade of mace, pounded, and, lastly, add little by little three glassfuls of burgimdy. Simmer the fish for twenty minutes or less, according to size, arrange them neatly on a dish, stir a spoonful of French mustard into the gra y, pour the gravy over the fish, and serve very hot. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four persons. Madeira Buns. Put into half a pound of flom- rather more than a quarter of a pound of butter, add three oimces of sifted sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, a small tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, haH an ounce of caraway-seeds, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of salt ; stir well together, and add two eggs well beaten, and half a wine-glassfiil of sherry. Bake quickly in patty-pans for about fifteen minutes. The above ingredients are sufficient for eight large buns. Probable cost, 8d. Madeira Pudding. The beauty of this pudding depends on contrasting well the colours of the jams. Make a good butter or suet crust ; roll it out thinly, cut in rounds the size of the tin in which you intend to boil the pudding several pieces of crust; put at the bottom of the tin a layer of crust, then one of light-coloured jam say greengage then another layer of crust, then a red jam, and so on until the tin is filled. Boil the pudding in a cloth for two hours and a haK, turn it out very carefully, and before serving sift a little white sugar over it. The tin should have a loose bottom, so that the pudding can slip out easUy. It must be well buttered first. Madeira Sauce, Lumber Beef ia (see Beef, Lumber, in Madeira Sauce). Madeira Wine Jelly. This very agreeable and excellent jelly takes its name from the wine used. The stock for it is made from calves' feet, and precisely m. the same manner as the ordinary caLf's-foot jelly {see Calf's Foot Jelly). To a quart of the jelly, clarified, add half a pint or more of madeira, and a glass of brandy ; but as this will reduce the strength, a little isinglass, also clarified, say about half an ounce, -will give it the necessary firmness. Time, one hour. Madonna Pudding. Put three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs into a basin with eight ounces of finely-shred suet, and the same weight of good powdered sugar. Beat up an egg with a large table-spoonful of brandy, add these, with the grated rind of a large lemon, to the ingredients in the basin. Beat the mixture imtil it is smooth, with a wooden spoon. If labour be not spared in this respect, the pudding -will be a success. Fill a buttered moiild, and boil steadily. Time, an hour to boil ; to beat, twenty minutes. Probable cost, about Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Madras Curry {see Curry, Madras). Magdalen Cake. Beat well ten fresh eggs, and again beat with them eight ounces of finely-powdered sugar. Turn six ounces of butter to a cream with the hand, and mix the eggs very gradually with it ; lastly, add, lightly and at intervals, steadily stirring the mixture, MAG ( 400 ) MAI eight ounces of fine flour, well dried. Blanch and slice thinly two ounces of sweet alnionds, and the same of candied orange-peel. Stir the orange-peel into the mass, but scatter the ahnonds over the inside of a buttered cake-tin, which fill with the mixture, putting more almonds over the top. The cake should be put into the oven quickly. Time, about an hour to bake; half an hour to beat the mixture. Probable cost, 2s. Magentas. Break twelve fresh eggs, but separate the yolks from the whites. Put the yolks into a large bowl, and whip up eight of the whites in a basin. Add to the yolks two ?unces of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, half the weight of bruised orange-flowers, and a pound of fine sugar. Mash these ingredients -with a wooden spoon, working them briskly for some time, when their appearance should be creamy and as smooth as custard. Now mix in three-quarters of a pound of fine flour with six ounces of butter, dissolved, but not oiled, and, lastly, the frothed whites of the eggs. Bake the biscuits in small tins, well buttered and stre-RTi with chopped almonds; cover also the top of the biscuits with almonds and powdered sugar. Bake in a moderate oven of a light colour. 'Time, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Magnum Bonum, or other large Plums, Comopte of. Take off the stalks, and wipe the fruit. Simmer a pound of the plums in a syrup, made vith six ounces of sugar . dissolved in half a pint of water, and according to the variety and acidity of fruit, add more sugar if required. Stew very gently for twenty minutes. Time, ten minutes to boil the syrup. Magnum Bonum Jam. The magmun bonum is the largest of oui' plums, and is excellent for jam and for other purposes. Choose the fruit when fuUy ripe. Take off the skins, remove the stones, and boil the plums gently for forty minutes, keeping them well stuTed all the time to i revent their burning; add three pounds of sugar in Irnnps for every four pounds of fruit and boil ten minutes longer. Three or four minutes before the jam is taken from the fire, add quarter of the kernels blanched and sliced. Probable cost of plums, Gd. per dozen. Magnum Bonum Plums, To Preserve. Take fine whole fruit, ripe and A dthout bruise; peel and open them only just enough to extract the stones ; handle them lightly, so that the juice may not bo drawn and lost. Weigh the plums, and strew over each pound of fruit, placed on a flat dish, one pound of good powdered sugar, and cover them for twelve hours. Put them into a preserving-pan with the sugar ; boil very gently (or the fruit will shrivel) for forty minutes, when the plums shoi,uld look clear if the skimming has been well attended to. Crush the stones, blanch and split the kernels, put some with the plums (the quantity must depend on taste), but thev are generally thought to mipart a delicious fla'vour to the preserve ; boil them in the pan rapidly for another fi\-e minutes, skimming while any scum remains on the surface. This recipe will serve for large plums in general, and for apricots. Magnum Bonum Plums, To Preserve (another way). See Plums, Magnum Bonum. Maids of Honoiir. Delicious cheesecakes so called at Eichmond, where they are to be had in perfection. AVe think the following recipe genuine : Beat two eggs, and mix them with a quart of new milk ; add the eggs and milk to a quart of boiling water in a saucepan ; joour in lemon-juice, and remove the curd, as it rises, to a sieve to drain ; mix the curd with the yolks of four eggs, pre\'iously well beaten, a large cupful of clotted cream, the rind of a lemon, rubbed off on sugar, a little pounded cinnamon, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, six ounces of currants, well washed and dried, and a glass of brandy. Mix weU, and bake in patty-pans, buttered and lined with a light French puff paste. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for twenty-four cheesecakes. Maids of Honour, Plain. Beat an oiuice and a half of fresh butter, and a breakfast cupful of well drained milk curd together, until smooth ; add an egg, and a cupful of milk beaten together, and sugar to sweeten : with the latter rub oif the rind of a lemon, or substitute any other flavouring preferred. Bake in patty-pans, lined with half puff paste rolled very thin. Time, ten to twelve minutes to bake. Maintenon Chops. Prepare a seasoning of minced sweet herbs, nutmeg, pepper, salt, grated bread-crumbs, and the pounded yolk of an egg that has boiled ten minutes. Cut chops from the neck of mutton, beat them into nice shape, and cover -ith the above seasoning. Broil them over a clear fire, enveloped separately in buttered paper; turn frequently, and send to table in or out of the paper. If \\ithout the paper they should have a good brown gravy. Time, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suflicient, eight chops for four persons. Maitre d' Hotel Sauce. There are many ways of making this sauce, from the rich French sauce made of cream and butter, down to the economical substitute of English melted butter, with just a dash of vinegar in it. It wiU, however, answer our purpose if we give two recipes for it, a rich one and one less expensive. First, for the true French sauce : Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a small enameUeci saucepan and stir to it, by degrees, two teaspoonfuls of flour ; continue stin-ing for five or ten minutes, until the butter and flour are well blended, when add, also by degrees, a quarter of a pint of boiling cream and a quarter of a pint of good veal stock, also boiling;" add a few spoonfuls of each at a time, and stir well, allowing the sauce to simmer a minute or two between each addition. "VMien perfectly smooth, put in the strained juice of a lemon, or, if preferred, a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar, a little pepper, or cayenne, or a pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. The yolks of two eggs are a great improvement to this sauce, and are almost necessary when it is MAI (401 ) MAI served with lish ; but in that case, only half the quantity of flour should be used, as the eggs help to thicken. For the plainer way : Take half a pint of milk, thicken it with one ounce of butter, and a heaped tea-spoonful of flour well worked together, and flavoui- with lemonjuice, pepper, and salt. We need scarcely say that the latter way is not to be compared to the former in taste or appearance ; but where economy is an object, it will prove a good substitute for the richer sauce. Time to simmer, fifteen to twenty minutes. The ingredients mentioned in describing the genuine article are sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of sauce. Maize or Indian Corn. This is the noblest of the cereal grasses. It was found native in America when that continent was discovered, and it now constitutes the breadcorn in North America, Mexico, and a great part of Africa. It is almost as extensively used for the support of man as rice, but there are great differences of opinion as to its merits. It ia said to contain very little gluten and sugar ready formed, and hence it is asserted that its nutritive power must be small. Certainly it cannot be fermented into good bread without the addition of wheat-flour ; yet people who live upon it are as healthy and strong as could be wished. The American and West Indian labourers think no bread so strengthening as that which is made of Indian corn-flour. When very coarse ground and boiled, maize forms the hominy of the southern portion of the United States. The porridge made of Indian meal goes in North America under the name of mush {see Mush of Indian Com). The entire grains are employed under the name of hulled corn or samp. When the unripe grains are slightly roasted, they burst and turn inside out, and look ver ' peculiar ; in this state they are called pop-corn, and are much relished as food in America. The unripe cobs of Indian com are often pickled as well as boiled for the table. The starch of maize is a good substitute for arrowroot, and is largely employed in this country under various names, Oswego corn-flour, &c. " Maize," says Mr. C. W. Johnson, " was brought very prominently into notice by Mr. Cobbett, who grew -ith much success a dwarf variety on his farm of Bam Elm, near London, and published an elaborate treatise on its culture, and the uses to which it could be applied. Notwithstanding his strenuous advocacy, its cultivation has never been much approved of, and in no part of the kingdom is it grown to any extent. This valuable plant produces a much larger number of ears, which abound -with a greater proportion of wholesome mealy matter than any European grain ; and, as Indian corn prospers in low swampy situations, where it tends to dry up the superfluous moisture, and to render the soil firm, it might perhaps be advantageously cultivated in the southern coimties of Great Britain ; but unfortunately it requires a higher summer heat than we generally experience in these islands." Maize, Boiled. It is a subject of regret that this vegetable, so highly esteemed ia America, is not to be obtained in this country ? at least, not in a fresh state. It can, however be procured preserved in tins, and though in that state much of its freshness is lost, it will be much appreciated by those housekeepers who study variety. Strip the stalks of the fibre and outside covering, boil from twenty to twentyfive minutes ; drain, place a piece of toast "at the bottom of the dish, and pour rich melted butter over the ears. Maize is in America simply boiled, and served with a piece of fresh butter. One ear of grain is sufiicient for one person. Maize, Boiled (another way). +SVe Green Indian Com or Maize, To Boil. Maize Indian {see Indian Maize). Maize, Mush of {see Mush of Indian Corn) . Maize, Roasted. The following is William Cobbett's account of this process: "Roasted ears," he says, "are certainly the greatest delicacy that ever came in contact with the palate of man. In America, where they bum wood upon the hearth, they contrive to have a bright fire, with a parcel of live wood coals on the hearth ; they lay something of iron across the two hand-irons, which are used in the fireplace, sweep the ashes up clean, and then they take the ears of corn and set them up along in a row, facing the fire, and leaning gently against the bar which they have put across. When one side is brown, you turn the other side towards the fire ; or, rather, you turn them round gradually, until the whole be brown; and when the whole of the grains be brown, you lay them in a dish, and put them on the table. These are so many little bags of roasted milk, the sweetest that can be imagined ; or, rather, are of the moat delightful taste. You leave a little tail of the ear, two inches long, or thereabouts, to turn it and handle it by. You take a thin piece of butter upon a knife, which will cling to the knife on one side, while you gently rub it over the ear from the other side. 'Thus the ear is buttered ; then you take a little salt, according to your fancy, and sprinkle it over the ear ; you then take the tail of the ear in one hand, and the point of the ear in the other hand, and bite the grains off the cob ; I need hardly say that this must be done with the fore teeth, and that those who have none must be content to live without green ears, for, as to taking the grains off with a knife, they are too deeply implanted to admit of that ; and, if you attempt cutting, you will cut cob and all. "When you have finished one ear, you lay the cob aside, and go to another ... I defy all the arts of French cookery, upon which so many volumes have been written, to produce anything so delightful to the palate as this." Maize Suppawn. " This," saysCobbett, "is neither more nor less iYia-Ti porridc c ; that is to saj', boiling milk, broth, or water, thickened with corn-flour, in the same way that people in the South of England thicken them with wheatflour, and the people in the North of England thicken them vith oatmeal. Put into water, this is a breakfast, or suj pcr, or dinner for little childi-en ; put into milk or broth, it is the same for grown people ; with milk or broth, it MAJ (402) MAL is a good strong meal, and quite sufficient as treakfast or supper for man to work upon." Majesty Biscuits. Pound well and blanch two ounces of bitter and two ounces of sweet abnonds. Rub into a pound of flour the same quantity of butter, add one pound of crushed lump sugar, and the pounded almonds, and moisten the whole with one egg. Drop the mixture on a buttered tin, in pieces not larger than a Barcelona nut, and bake in a slow oven until the biscuits are of a pale yellow colour. When taken out of the oven they will be soft, l- ut will harden and be quite crisp when cold. They must then be put into a tin canister, and will keep for months. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, lOd. a pound. The above ingredients are sufficient to make three jjounds of biscuits. Malabar Curry. MLx together a tablespoonful of curry powder and half that quantity of flour ; cut a fowl into neat pieces, and cover these with the mixture. Shred an onion, and brown it in a stowpan with a good liunp of butter; put the pieces of fowl into the same butter, add more if necessary, and when they have nearly absorbed the butter, moisten with a cup of good white stock or broth, and shake the pan for a minute or two, when pour in the remainder of a pint, and stew until done. Part of a rasped cocoa-nut will greatly improve the curry ; it helps also to thicken it. Rub it very smoothly through a sieve, and mix it well into the curry by shaking the pan over the fire. Just before ser\'ing, flavour with half the juice of a lemon and half a wine-glassful of vinegar. Salt if required, and send plain boiled rice to table in a separate dish. Serve hot. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four persons. Malaprop Cake. Break four frosh eggs, and di-sddo the yolks and whites. Put the yolks into separate cups, and beat them well. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth. Turn eight ounces of butter to cream, and blend with it eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Stir these ingredients, and continue to mix until the egg-yolks have been added one by one, and then, very gradually, add eight ounces of dry flour. Lastly, stir in the whites of the eggs. Put any flavouring desired. If essence, put a few drops with the cream, but a table-spoonful of grated lemon-peel may be mixed -with the flour. Line the tin %vith a "buttered paper, and bake in a brisk oven for one hour. Probable cost. Is. 7d. The above quantities are sufficient for one cake. Malay Curry [see Curry, Malay). Malmsey. The genuine malmsey wines of commerce possess a luscious sweetness, and a most peculiar bouquet. They are mostly the produce of Sardinia, Sicily, Provence, Teneriife, the Madeiras, the Azores, and the Lipari Isles. 3Ialmsey wine is made from grapes grown on rocky ground, and exposed to the full light and heat of the sun ; the fruit is allowed to hang on the -vines for a month longer than if required for making dry wines, by which time it is partially withered. I Malmsey, Scotch. This is a good homemade wine. Get from a strong beer brewer six gallons ?f sweet fresh worts, or the same quantity of pot ale fi'om a distiller. To this add as much water, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds of sugar, or one of sugar and one of good honey. Ferment, after mixing in the sugar well, and let the liquor remain a month in the cask, keeping it full. In the meantime, soak four pounds of the best raisins, and twelve pounds of bitter almonds, both chopped, in a cpart of flavourless whiskey ; add this, and an ounce of isinglass melted in wine, to the liquor in the cask when it is cleared by fermentation. Mix well, and put into bottles after a month or six weeks. Malt Liquor. (To brew ale). The utensils required are, first, a copper that will contain at least forty gallons. Second, a mashingtub, to contain sixty gallons ; for the malt is to be put into this along with the water. It must be a little broader at top than at bottom, and not quite so deep as it is wdde at the bottom. In the middle of the bottom there is a hole about two inches over, to draw the wort ofi. Into this hole goes a stick, a foot or two longer than the tub is high. This stick is to be about two 'inches through, and tapered for about eight inches upwards at the end that goes into the hole, which at last it fills up as closely as a cork. Before anything else is put into the tub, lay a little bundle of fine birch, about half the bulk of a birch-broom, and well tied at both ends. This being laid over the hole (to keep back the grains as the wort goes out), put the tapered end of the stick down thi'ough it into the hole, and thus cork the hole up. Then have something of weight sufficient to keep the birch steady at the bottom of the tub, with a hole through it, to slip down the stick; the best thing for this purpose will be a leaden collar for the stick, with the hole large enough, and it should weigh three or four pounds. Thii'd, an underback, or shallow tub, to go under the mash-tub for the wort to run into when drawn from the grains. Fourth, a tun-tub, that will contain thirty gallons, to put the ale into to work, the mash-tub serving as a tun-tub for the small beer. Besides these, a couple of coolers, or shallow tubs, about a foot deep ; or if three or four it may be as well, in order to effect the cooling more quickly. The following is the process of brewing ale as described by the celebrated William Cobbett: "Begin to brew by filling the copper with water, and next by making the water boil. Then put into the mashing-tub water sufficient to stir and separate the malt. The degree of heat that the water is to be at, before the malt is put in, is 1 70 degrees by the thermometer ; but, without one, take this rule; when you can, looking down into the tub, see your face clearly in the water, the water is hot enough. Now put in the malt, and stir it well in the water. In this state it should continue for about a quarter of an hour. In the meanwhile, fill up the copper and make it boil ; and then put in boiling water sufficient to give eighteen gallons of ale. "When the proper quantity of water is in, stir the malt again well, and cover the mashing-tub over MAL (403) MAL with sacks, and then let the mash stand for two hours ; then draw off the wort. The mashingtuh is placed on a couple of stools, so as to be able to put the underback under it to receive the wort as it comes out of the hole. \ Tien the underback is put in its place, let out the wort by pulling up the stick that corks the hole. But observe, this stick (which goes six or eight inches through the hole) must be raised by degrees, and the wort must be let out slowly in order to keep back the sediment ; so that it is necessary to have something to keep the stick up at the point where it is to be raised and fixed at for the time. To do this, the simplest thing is a stick across the mashing-tub. As the ale-wort is drawn off into the small underback, lade it out of that into the tun-tub ; put the wort into the copper, and add a pound and a half of good hops, well rubbed and separated as they are put in. Now make the copper boil, and keep it, with the lid off, at a good brisk boil for a fidl hour, or an hour and a haK. When the boihng is done, put the hquor into the coolers ; but strain out the hops in a small clothes-basket, or wicker basket. Now set the coolers in the most convenient place, in doors or feut of doors. The next stage is the tim-tub, where the liquor is set to work. A great point is the degree of heat that the liquor is to be at when it is set to work. The proper heat is seventy degrees, so that a thermometer makes the matter sm-e. In the country they determine the degree of heat by merely putting a finger into the liquor. When cooled to the proper heat, put it into the tun-tub, and put in about half a pint of good yeast. But the yeast should first be put into half a gallon of the liquor and mixed well; stirring in with the yeast a handful of wheat or rye-flour. This mixture is then to be poured out clean into the tun-tub, and the mass of hquor agitated well, till the yeast be well mixed with the whole. "When the liquor is thus properly put into the tun-tub, and set a-working, cover over the top by laj-ing a sack or two across it. The tun-tub should stand in a place neither too warm nor too cold : any cool place in siunmer, and any warm place in winter, and if the weather be rm co tl, some cloths or sacks should be put round the tun-tub while the beer is working. In about six or eight hours a frethy head will rise upon the liquor ; axd it will keep rising, more or less slowly, for forty-eight hours. The best way is to take off the froth, at the end of about twenty-four hours, with a common skimmer, and in twelve hours take it off again, and so on, till the hquor has do w u-orki if , and sends up no more yeast. Then it is beer ; and, when it is quite co d (for ah, or strong beer), put it into the cask by means of a funnel. It must be cold before this is done, or it will be foxed that is,, have a rank and disagreeable taste. The cask should lean a little on one side when filling it, because the beer will loork again, and send more yeast out of the bunghole. Something will go off in this working, which may continue for two or three days, so that when the beer is putting into the cask, a gallon or two should be left, to keep filling up with as the working pi-oduces emptiness. At last, when the working is completely over, block the cask up to its level. Put in a handful oi fresh ho is ; fill the cask quite fuU, and bung it tight, with a bit of coarse linen round the bung. When the cask is cmptij great care must be taken to cork it tightly up, so that no air gets in ; for, if so, the cask is moulded and spoiled for ever." Malt Liquor. (To brew small beer). Thirty-six gallons of boihng water are to go into the mashing-tub [sec the preceding recipe) ; the grains are to be well stirred up, as in the process of brewing ale; the mashing-tub is to be covered over, and the mash is to stand in that state for an hour ; then draw it off into the tun-tub. By this time the copper will be empty again, b} putting the ale-liquor to cool. Now, put the small-beer wort into the copper with the hops used before, and with half a pound of fresh hops added to them ; and this liquor boil briskly for an hour. Take the grains and the sediment clean out of the mashing -tub, put the birch -twigs in again, and put down the stick as before. Put the basket over, and take the hquor from the copper (put the fire out first), and pour it into the mashing-tub through the basket. Take the basket away, throw away the hops, and leave the smaU-beer hquor to cool in the mashing- tub. Here it is to remain to be set to working ; only, more yeast will be wanted in proportion ; and there should be, for thirty-six gallons of small beer, three half-pints of good yeast. Proceed now as with the ale, only, in the case of small beer, it should be put into the cask not quite cold, but a little warm, or else it will not work in the barrel, which it ought to do. It will not work so strongly nor so long as ale, and may be put in the barrel much sooner in general, the next day after it is brewed. All the utensils should be well cleaned and put away as soon as they are done with. With care they wUl last a long time. " I am now," says Cobbett, when describing the above process, " in a farmhouse where the same set of utensils has been used for forty years, and the owner tells me that they may last for forty years longer." Malt, Quality of, To Ascertain. Choose that which breaks soft, sifts full, smells sweet, has a thin skin, and tastes sweet and meUow. It should swim on water; should it sink, it contains unmalted barley. Pale malt, or that which is di-ied at a low temperature, produces the strongest wort, and is most wholesome. Brown malt, which is di-ied with more heat, gives a darker coloured wort, which is weaker, and takes a longer time fining, than if brewed with pale malt. Amber malt is between the two. Malvern Apple Pudding. To a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs and an equal weight of good russet apples peeled, cored, and chopped small add four ounces of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, or the rind of half a lemon, minced as small as possible, and four well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon, and throw in from time to time, while beating the mixture, a pound and a half, or more, of clean dry currants, and a glass of brandy. Boil in a floured cloth, which should be tied quite tight, without any space MAL (404 ) MAN being left for swelling. Time, four hours to boil. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for two puddings. Malvern Pudding. Put two dessertspoonfuls of Oswego corn-flour into a basin, and mix with a little cold milk, say about two table-spoonfuls. Boil together four ounces of good loaf sugar and half a pint of new milk. Stir it into the basin while boiling hot, adding, when the heat has a little gone off, three wellbeaten eggs, with three table-spoonfuls of good cream, which should bo thick, and a little nutmeg. If cream be not at hand, use mo?e eggs. Pour some of this custard into a buttered dish, and have ready boiled some well-flavoured apples, sweetened with half their weight of good loaf sugar, and made pleasant to the taste ?with the grated rind and juice of a lemon. Put a layer of the mai-malade on the Oswego custard, and fill up alternately. Bake in a brisk oven. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 5d. Sufficient for five or sue persons. Manchester Pudding. Boil three table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs in haK a pint of milk, which has been previously flavoured with vanilla or lemon-peel, for three or four minutes ; add to it when off the boil the yolks of two eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, eight lumps of sugar, and haK a gill of brandy. Place a layer of any rich jam (greengage, strawberrj', or apricot) at the bottom of a pie-dish, pour in the mixture when cold, ornament the edge of the dish with a border of puff paste, and bake for an hour. This pudding may be efiten either hot or cold; if hot, whip the -whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sugar, spread it over the top of the pudding, and return it to the oven for five minutes to set. If to be eaten cold, merely sift some powdered sugar over it and serve. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mandarin Pudding. Mix a quarter of a pound of fine bread-crumbs, a quarter of a ' pound of well-chopped suet, a quarter of a pound of Jamaicii preserved green ginger, with two eggs and two table-spoonfuls of the sjTup of the ginger. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould or basin, and steam for four hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mandram Sauce. Mince two shallots or a middle-sized onion as finely as possible. Caiop or slice a cucumber, and let the vegetables stand in water for a few minutes; then drain them dry. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and add the cuciimber, a small pinch of cayenne, and part of a capsicum, sliced, with a table-spoonful of vinegar, and two of white wine. If the cucumber be sliced, the onion should be chopped, and rice versa. Time, five minutes to drain the cucimiber. Mandrang. Cut a large green cucumber into quarters, peel it and scoop out any seeds there may be in it ; cut it into fine shreds about half an inch long ; put these into a saucetureen, and add two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion ; salt and pepper to taste ; add also the juice of a lemon, three or four drops of anchovy sauce, and as much sherry or hock as will moisten the whole. Serve with any kind of roast meat. Time, before using, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of wine, 8d. or 9d. Mange, Apple {see Apple Mange) . Mangel Wurzel. This is a kind of red beet. According to some authorities, it is a mongrel between red and white beet. Its cultivation in Great Britain is gradually extending. In France, Germany, and Switzerland it has long been grown, partly as food for cattle, and partly to be used in distillation and in the extraction of sugar. Mangel Wurzel, Ale from. In the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture (vol. iii., p. 365) a method is described of making a''' from this root. A portion of about ten _ -inds of the root to a gallon will make a good liquor, but with fifteen pounds' weight to the gallon an excellent ale will be produced ; the addition of two pounds weight of treacle to a firkin will be a great improvement. One-third malt and two-thirds mangel wurzel will make capital ale. " One method is first to wash and clean the roots well, take the top off completely, scrape (rather, pare) off the outer rind, slice and boil them till soft and pulpy ; squeeze the liquor from the pulp as much as possible, and then boil it again with about sLx ounces of hops to nine gallons, and work with yeast in the usual way. Thus a cottager, by boding his pot over his winter fire of a night, and using the root as we have described, might seldom be without a refreshing beverage oven the greatest part ot the year, for the roots may be kept in a cool place, in a proper state for use, during most of the winter." Mangel Wurzel Beer. A pleasant, healthy bitter beer can be made in a very economical method, by using mangel-wurzel instead of malt. The saccharine matter in the mangel-wurzel is fermented with some best hops, and the beverage thus obtained will be found acceptable in families where brewer's beer is considered too costly, or where it is some trouble to get. For the convenience of small families, we have given the proportions for a ten-gallon cask ; but the beer is better when made in larger quantities. Wash the roots clean, and slice them. Boil until they can be broken up easily. To sixty pounds so sliced, add fourteen gallons of water. "When the liquor has been pressed out and the roots are dry, boil together their juice and the water in which they were boiled first, with the addition of a quarter of a pound of hops ; let them boil about an hour and a half, then cool the liquor as quickly as possible to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Strain it through a thick cloth laid over a sieve ; put it into the vat with about six ounces of yeast, stir it well, cover, and let it stand twenty-four hours ; if the yeast has then well risen skim it off, and barrel the beer, keeping back the thick sediment. Vfhile the fermentation goes on in the cask it may be filled up with the beer left over, or with any other_ kind at hand ; when the fermentation ceases, in about two or three days, the cask must be bunged up, and in a few days the beer will be ready for use. It may be drawn from the cask or bottled. MAN ( 40.- ) MAP Mango. Of all the tropical fruits, the mango is one of the most grateful to Europeans. In form it is like a short, thick cucumber. The skin of the fruit is thick, and the interior consists of a pulp, which melts in the mouth with cooling sweetness. Mango Chutney. Peel, core, and quarter si.x pounds of sour apples, and boil them in nearly two pints of vinegar ; pound eight ounces of onions, about ten or twelve ounces of ginger, and foul- ounces of garHc together ; add these to the apples and vinegar, -with twelve ounces each of sugar (which should be first dissolved), stoned raisins, and mustard-seed; this last should be washed in vinegar, and dried in the sun, before being added. Mix well in a large bowl, and throw in, while mixing, another pint of vinegar, and four ounces of dried chillies. Bottle at once closely and tie bladder over the cork. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. Mangoes, Cucumber {see Cucumber Mangoes) . Mangoes, Melon {see Melon Mangoes). Mangoes, Pickled. Take a melon of the sort generally used for pickling, first seeing that it is not quite ripe; cut off a slice from the top, and carefully pick out all the seeds. Shred finely one oimce of garlic ; mix it with two ounces of mustard-seed, and the seeds of the melon. Now, put this back as a stufiing, place the top on, and bind it down. Boil, in two quarts of best -vinegar, one ounce of Jamaica peppers, one ounce of whole allspice, one ounce of bruised ginger, and a tea-spooi\ful of salt ; when boiling pour it over the melon. The same vinegar must be put into a saucepan, boiled up again, and thrown over the melon for three successive days, or more if possible ; then tie do-wn with bladder to exclude the air. Manna Croup Pudding. This pudding is made in the same way as most grainpuddings, but may be greatly improved by adding a few chopped or pounded almonds. Boil ciix dessert-spoonfuls of manna croup in a pint of new milk, -with half an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and poimded, and eight lumps of ?white sugar, for two minutes, then pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and let it stand for twenty minutes. When almost cold, stir in three well- beaten eggs, and bake in a moderate oven for thirty or thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Manna Groats or Manna Croup. This is a kind of semolina, prepared in Russia usually from the hard wheats of Odessa and Taganrog. " In the process of grinding for flour, small rounded fragments of these hard grains are obtained from the grooves of the grinding-stones, and these constitute the ordinary manna groats, which forms one of the most esteemed materials for puddings. It is undistinguishable from the semolina of Italy. Another kind is made by husking the small grain of the aquatic grass Glycerla Jiuitans, which is carefully collected for the purpose ; it is expensive, and is only used as a luxury. Small quantities of the common kind are occasionally imported into this country, but it is by no means sufficiently well known." Mansfield Pudding. Chop three ounces of suet ; add to it one table-spoonful of flour, four table-spoonfuls of currants, a pinch of nutmeg, two ounces of moist sugar, the soft part of a French roll, which has been previously soaked in half a pint of boiling cream or milk, and well beaten, a table-spoonful of brandy, a tablespoonful of cream, and two eggs. Beat the pudding with a fork for four or five minutes, and put it into a buttered dish, or into a china mould, if preferred. Time to bake in a moderate oven, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Manx Cake. Eub oil the peel from half a large lemon on lumps of sugar ; ascertain the weight of sugar, and add as much more of pounded sugar as will make eight ounces in all. Mix the pounded sugar with eight ounces of rice-flour. Beat eight eggs until you can take up a spoonful free from strings ; dissolve the lumps of sugar in the beaten eggs, and mix them gradually with the floui-. "WTien these ingredients are well beaten together, bake in a buttered tin. Time, thirty minutes to bake ; to beat the eggs, twenty-five to thu-ty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. for this quantity. Maple. The sugar-maple is a species of maple not unlike the sycamore. It abounds in the northern districts of the United States and in the British North American possessions. Large quantities of sugar are made from it, but almost solely for domestic use. A single tree yields from two to six pounds of sugar in a season. Maple Sugar, Apparatus required for Making. In many localities, where wood is no object, a rude method of boiling is followed ; but where fuel is scarce, a cheap apparatus should be prepared that will require but little fuel. In some districts broad pans or kettles have been made, of sheet-iron bottoms, and sides of plank or boards, care being taken, to allow the fire to come in contact -with the iron only. These pans cost but a trifle, and, o-wing to their large surface, the evaporation is rapid. Another cheap construction for boiling with economy is to make a light box of plank, some four or five feet square the -width of a wide plank will answer and then put into it, almost at the bottom, a piece of large copper funnel, say ten or twelve inches at the outer part, and then smaller. This funnel, beginning near one end, should run back nearly to the opposite side, then turn, and come out at the opposite end or at the side near the end, as most convenient being in only two straight parts, that the soot may be cleared out. Each end should be made tight with a flange nailed to the box. At the mouth of the large part there should be a door to reduce the di-aught ; here make the fire, and at the other end have a funnel to carry oif the smoke. In this case there is only sheet-copper between the fire and the sap which surroimds the funnel, so that the heat is readily taken up by the liquid, and very little escapes. For catching the sap various kinds of vessels are used. The cheapest MAP ( 406 ) MAP are made of white birch, which last one season, or less. Troughs of j ine, or linden, or basswood may be had for a trifle each, and they will last for a number of years if inverted in the shade of trees. But these are inconvenient, and after the first year they become dirty, and clog the sap. Pails with iron hoops are the best, and eventually the cheapest. By painting and preserving them they will keep for many years. Maple Sugar, Pining of. An Oswego authority remarks that, from mismanagemeat in the process of manufacture, maple sugar frequently becomes very impure. Its value is lessened, while the expense of making it is increased. " I am sensible," he adds, " that the method which I shall reconmiend is not altogether a new one, and that it is more by attending to some apparently minute and trivial circumstances, than to any new plan, that my sugar is so good. Much has been written upon, and many useful improvements have been made in, that part @f the process wliich relates to tapping the trees, and gathering and evaporating the sap, &c. ; but still, if the final operation is not understood, there will be a deficiency in the quality of the sugar. I shall confine myself to that part of the operation which relates to reducing the syrup to sugar, as it is of the first importance. My process is this : When the syrup is reduced to the consistenee of West India molasses, I set it away till it is perfectly cold, and then mix with it the clarifying matter, which is milk or eggs I prefer eggs to milk. The eggs should be thoroughly beaten, and effectually mixed with the sp'up while cold. The syrup should then be heated till just before it would boil, when the curd rises, bringing with it every impurity, even the colouring matt-er, or a great poi'tion of that which it had received from the smoke, kettle, buckets, or reservoirs. The boiling should be checked, and the scum carefully removed, when the syrup should be slowly turned into a thick woollen strainer, and left to run through at leisure. I would remark that a great proportion of the sugar that is made in our country is not strained after cleansing. This is an error. If examined in a wine-glass, innumei-able minute and almost imperceptible particles of cm-d will be seen floating in it, which, if not removed, render it liable to bum, and otherwise injure the taste and colour of it. A flannel strainer does this much better than a linen one. It is, indeed, indispensable. As to the quantity of eggs necessary, one pint to a pailful of syrup is amply sufiicient, and half as much will do very well. I now put my syrup into another kettle, which has been made perfectly clean and bright, when it is placed over a quick but solid fire, and soon rises, but is kept from overflowing by being ladled with a long dipper. NTien it is sufficiently reduced (I ascertain this by dropping it from the point of a knife, when hot, into one inch of cold water if done, it will not immediately mix with the water, but will lie at the bottom in a round, flat droji), it is taken from the fire, and the foaming allowed to subside. A thick white scum, which is usable, is removed, and the sugar turned into a cask, placed on an inclined platform, and left undisturbed for six weeks, or longer, when it should be tapped in the bottom, and the molasses drawn oft'. It will drain perfectly diy in a few days. The sugar made in this manner is very nearly as white as lump sugar, and beautifully grained. From the scum taken oft' in cleansing I usually make, by diluting and re-cleansing, one-sixth as much as I had at first, and of an equal quality. It is not of much consequence, as regards the quality of the sugar, whether care be taken to keep the sap clean or not. The points in which the greatest errors are committed are neglecting to use a flannel strainer, or to strain after cleansing, to have the sugarkettle properly cleaned, and to remove the white scum from the sugar." Maple Sugar, To Make. The process of making majjle sugar is very simple, and easily performed. It begins by the preparation of sjjouts and troughs or tubs for the trees ; the spouts or tubes are made of elder, sumach, or pine, sharpened to fit an auger-hole of about three-fourths of an inch in diameter. The hole is bored a little upward, at the distance, horizontally, of five or six inches apart, and about twenty inches from the ground on the south or sunny side of the tree. The trough should be cut from white maple, pine, ash, or bass-wood. It is placed directly under the spouts, the joints of which are so constructed as completely to fill the hole in the tree, and prevent the loss of the sap at the edges, having a small gimlet or pitch-hole in the centre, through which the entire juice discharged from the tree runs, and is all saved in the vessels below. To give the best run of sap the distance bored into the tree is only about half an inch. The method of boring is far better for the preservation of the tree than boxing, or cutting a hole with an axe, from the lower end of which the juice is directed by a spout to the tub or trough placed to receive it. The tub should be of ash, or of some other wood that will impart no vicious taste to the liquid or sugar. The sap is to be gathered every day from the trees, and put in large tubs for the purpose of boiling down. This is accomplished by means of a steady hot fire. The surface of the kettle is cleansed from time to time by a skimmer. A small piece of fat pork is suspended at the proper point to prevent the liquid from boiling over. As the volume of the liquid is reduced, fresh additions of sap are made. When boiled down to a syrup, the liquor is set aside in an earthenware or metal vessel to cool and settle. The purest part is then drawn off, or poured into a kettle imtU the vessel is two-thirds full. By a brisk and continual fire the sjTup is further reduced in volume to a degree of consistence best learned by a little experience. It may then either be put into moulds, to become hard as it cools, or stirred until it is grained into sugar. The right time for removing it from the fire may be ascertained by cooling and graining a small quantity. In the manufactm-e of maple sugar there are several difficulties to be encountered. In reducing the sap, great care must be taken not to burn the liquid after MAP (407) MAR it is made to the consistence of molasses, since, if this is done, it is impossible to convert it into sugar ; a tough, black, sticky mass, of little value, being the result. Indeed, the utmost care and attention are required to produce a first-rate article ; for though sugar may be made in almost any way where the sap can be procured, yet, unless the utmost care is observed in the processes in gathering and boiling the sap, clarifying the sjTup, and ia converting the syrup to sugar a dirty, inferior article will be the result, instead of the beautiful and delicious sweet which the maple, properly treated, is sure to yield. Maple Sugar, To Make (another way). The following process produces a most beautiful article. It is described by a gentleman who gained the first premium at the State Fair, at Rochester, in 1843, to the committee on maple sugar of the New York State Agricultm-al Society : " In the first place, I make my buckets, tubs, and kettles, all perfectly clean. I boil the sap in a potash-kettle set in an arch in such a manner that the edge of the kettle IB defended aU round from the fire. I boil through the day, taking care not to have anything in the kettle that will give colour to the sap, and to keep it well skimmed. At night T leave fire enough under the kettle to boil the sap nearly or quite to sjrrup by the next morning. I then take it out of the kettle, and strain it through a flannel cloth into a tub, if it is sweet enough ; if not, I put it int? a cauldron-kettle, which I have hung on a pole in such a manner that I can swing it on or oft' the fire at pleasure, +r boil it tUl it is sweet enough, and then strain it into the tub, and let it stand till the next morning. I then take it, and the sjTup in the kettle, and put it aU together into the cauldron, and sugar it oft'. I use, to clarify, say, 100 pounds of sugar, the whites of five or six eggs, well beaten, about one quart of new milk, and a spoonful of saleratus, all well mixed with the syrup before it is scalding hot. I then make a moderate fire directly under the cauldron, until the scum is ?.U raised, then skim it off clean, taking care not to let it boil so as to rise in the kettle before I have done skimming it. I then sugar it off, leaving it so damp that it will drain a little. I let it remain in the kettle until it is well granulated. I then put it into boxes, made smallest at the bottom, that will hold from fifty to seventy pounds, leaving a thin piece of board fitted in, two or three inches above the bottom, which is bored full of small holes to let the molasses drain through, which I keep drawn off by a tap through the bottom. I put on the top of the sugar a clean damp cloth, and over that a board, well fitted in so as to exclude the air from the sugar. After it has done draining, or nearly so, dissolve it, and sugar it off again, going through with the same process in clarifying and draining as before." Maraschino Calf's Foot Jelly {see Calf's Foot Jelly, Maraschino). Maraschino Ice Cream. Mix two glasses of maraschino with a pint of cream, half a pound of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon. Freeze. The above quantities are sufficient for one quart. Time, according to the mode of freezing. Maraschino Jelly. Squeeze the juice from an orange, lemon, and peach. Strain and add it, with a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, to twelve ounces of fine sugar, on which the rind of part of a lemon has been rubbed off. Dissolve the sugar -with a wine-glassful of water, and boil untU it is reduced to a rich sjTup, when add it to a pint and a haH of good strong caLE's-foot stock, half a pint of maraschino, and the frothed whites and crushed shells of eight eggs. Sinmier for a few minutes, then pass it through the usual jeUy-bag imtU quite clear. While in a liquefied state, but cool, pick the stems from some fine rich-coloured strawberries, throw them in, and mould the jelly. The kernel of the peach, crushed, or a bitter almond, may be simmered with the jeUy. Time to simmer, ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for two moulds. Maraschino Syrup. Strain the juice of a large sweet orange, and pour it, with a ?wineglassful of water, over three ounces of sugar; boil it to a rather stiff, bright syrup, and skim, adding a quarter of an ounce of blanched bitter almonds and a small quantity of lemon-rind, or the quarter part of a lemon may be rubbed off on lumps of sugar. When clear and thick, strain, and serve with a wine-glassful of maraschino stii-red into it. Marble Jelly. Prepare for carrying out this recipe a jelly that will be colourless, and oU well a mould, which nearly fiU with rough lumps of bright-coloured jeUy of varied sizes. Arrange the lumps like rock-work, and tastefully as to colour. Orange, strawberry, and apple-jelly do well for this. Run the colourless jelly, when cool, but in a liquefied state, into the mould, and when set, turn out. We give the recipe for Silver Jelly, which is the one we would recommend, as being without colour. Rub off the essence from the rind of two lemons upon lumps of sugar. Beat the whites of six eggs to a froth, and crush the shells. Simmer over the fire an ounce and a half of the best isinglass, dissolved in a pint of water, adding the sugar, eggs, &c., and half a pint of lemon- juice, strained. When the jelly has simmered for a few minutes, pour in a pint of maraschino, and simmer a few minutes longer, when it must be allowed to stand, athout being disturbed, before it is passed through the jeUy-bag. If not clear the first time, return it to the bag it should in the end be like crj-stal. From ten to twelve ounces of sugar wiU "be required to sweeten this jelly. Marchioness Pudding. Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, and eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add to the creamed butter eight ounces of finely -powdered loaf sugar and the same weight of grated cocoa-nut. Stir in the eggs, and till a wellbuttered tin mould. Bake in a quick oven. This pudding is to be eaten hot or cold. Or, line the mould with a rich paste, made as follows : Rub into six ounces of fresh butter, turned to cream, a quarter of a pound of fine MAB (408) MAR flour. Mix an ounce of powdered sugar and the same weight of rice-flour, add them to the butter and flour, and moisten to a paste with two well-beaten eggs. Work the mixture well, line the tin mould, put the mixture in, and bake. Time, without paste, twenty minutes ; with paste, one hour or more. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Marchpane (a German recipe). Put into an enamelled saucepan half a pound of sweet and half an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, with haK a pound of sifted sugar. Stir well over a gentle heat until they form a smooth paste, as stiff as is required for roUing out. Place the paste on a marble slab, previously covered with sifted sugar, knead it lightly into a ball, and let it stand till cool. This dehcious paste, when rolled out thin, may be either cut into pretty and fanciful biscuits with tin cutters, or made into a large round sandwich, with apricot or raspberry jam between two layers of the ahnond paste. Bake to a pale yellow in a moderate oven. To prevent the almonds oiling, add, whUe pounding, a few drops of orange-water. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Marigold or Pot Marigold, This is an annual plant, known in this country since 1573, but a native of France and Spain. It is often met with in cottage gardens, and in some parts of England the flowers are used in broths and soups. The marigold c?mes into flower in May or June, and continues flowering in plentiful succession all summer and autumn. A store for winter should be gathered when in full flower, spread out in the sun to dry, and then put carefully into paper bags. Marinade for Fish. Prepare a marinade by boiling together, in the proportions of a quarter of a pint of vinegar to three-quarters of a pint of water, a few bruised fennel-leaves, a sprig of thyme, an onion in rings, and some cayenne and salt. Siinmer these for ten minutes ; lay in the fish, and simmer until done. Serve hot or cold ; if hot, make a sauce as follows : Stir together in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour ; thin it with a quarter of a pint of the marinade, strained, or a cupful of water, and a wine-glassful of sherry. Season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; when at the boiling point, pour it over the yolk of an egg and the juice of a lemon, into the tureen, stirring well, and adding a quarter of an ounce of butter at the last. If to be sent to table cold, strain the marinade, and when quite cold pomit, with half a gill more of vinegar, over the fish, which should be laid into a deep dish. Time, twenty minutes to simmer fish. Sufficient for two or tliree fish. Marinade for Fish, Economical. An excellent and economical marinade that will serve for several occasions, if boiled, skimmed, and bottled closely after use. Brown together in a stewpan, with a lump of butter, two middle-sized onions, two shallots, a small bit of garlic, and a carrot, all minced, and simmer for two or three hours over a slow fire with a pint and a half of cheap claret or British wine : add a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, two or three cloves, a dozen Jamaica peppers (both pounded), salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Strain for use. Fish to be broiled or fried should be laid in a marinade of oil and minced sweet herbs. Sufficient for one pint. Marjoram. Four different species of marjoram are cultivated pot, sweet, winter, and common. AU but chiefly the first three are aromatics, of sweet flavour, and much employed as relishing herbs in soups, broths, stuffings, &c. The common marjoram is only used in cookery when the others are not at hand. The propagation of sweet marjoram or knotted marjoram is by means of seed; a little should be sown every spring. Pot marjoram is readily propagated by cuttings, and is hardy enough to endure our winters. For winter sweet marjoram, a sheltered border and a dry soil are required. It is a perennial plant, and is propagated by parting the roots in autumn. For winter use, both kinds of sweet marjoram should be slowly di-ied in the shade, and afterwards hung in a diy place. Marketing, Rules for. Some sensible observations on this head are given in Webster and Parke's " Encyclopajdia of I omcstic Economy." In marketing, say these writers, the first rule is to purchase chiefly fi-om known and respectable tradespeople, who are likely to go themselves to the best markets, and who have to support the character of their shops. The second rule to be observed is that of not purchasing inferior articles under the idea of being economical. A bargain is seldom a prize ; and this is especially the case in regard to butcher' smeat. llie best meat and the prime joints are unquestionably the cheapest in the end, although the first cost may be the greatest. In coarse and inferior joints there is always too great a proportion of gristle, bone, and hard meat, to render them truly economical ; these may serve as the basis of soups, gravies, or stews; but for roasting or boihng they are wasteful. The criterion of bad meat by which must be understood meat that has been too long killed, or meat from animals killed in a state of disease ought to be well known, by those who market, no less than the value and economy of the different parts and joints. Marlborough Pudding. Wami two ounces of fresh butter, and when soft, without being thoroughly melted, stir until it resembles cream ; add two ounces of powdered or sifted sugar, and two well-beaten eggs, and mix all together. When done, line a small pie-dish with puff paste, placing a border also round the edge ; cover the bottom with a layer of apricot or strawberry jam ; pour in the mixture, and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes. We would suggest, that instead of the dish being lined with, puff paste, a few thin slices of spongecake should be substituted, as the paste is hkely to be sodden and indigestible. Probable cost, 7d. Sxifficient for three persons. Marmalade is a half-liquid preserve, made by boiling the pulp of thickly-rinded fi'uits oranges, pine-apples, quinces, &c., with portions of the rind. Recipes for making the MAR ( 409 ) MAR following dcscrii tions of marmalade will be found under theii' respective headings : Apple. Pear. Apricot. Pine Apple. Barberry. Plum. Lemon. Quince. Makm.\lade, Orange. Quince and Apple. Orange. Marmalade, Orange, Easy way of Making. .Soluct sound Soville oranges in the month of March or April, and look them well over to see that there are no bruises or blemishes. Put them whole into a large preserving-pan with plenty of water, and stew until soft, not forgetting to change the water two or three times. AVTien tender, pour off the water, peel off the rind, take away the pips, and weigh one pound and a haK of lump sugar to every pound of pulp, with a breakfast-cupful of the water that the oranges were boiled in. Clear the syrup by boiling it for a few minutes before adding the pulp, ?ut the rind into thin strips, and when the pulp has simmered ten minutes, ad?! the rind and give another boil for ten minutes. Time to boil the oranges, two hours, or until tender. Average cost, 7d. per pot. Marmalade, Orange, Grated. Grate the outer rind of'twenty oranges and one lemon, scoop out the inside, and carefully remove the seeds; bruise the pulp with about a quarter of A pint of water, through a sieve. Weigh the pulped oranges, and allow a pound of sugar to a pound of the fruit. Boil them together with the grated rind, until it is tender. As the oranges are grated, these gratings should be thrown into water to prevent their becoming a mass, and afterwards added with the rest, when ready for boiling. Time, half an hour to boil. Marmalade, Orange, Pudding. Beat up two eggs, mix with them a quarter of a jjint of new milk, and a quarter of a pound of good moist sugar ; beat together for five minutes. Prepare some bread-crumbs by first drj'ing the bread in a cool oven, and then pounding it : of these crumbs take a quarter of a pound, with rather more than their weight of good suet. Mix with the eggs and milk, and work the mixture until smooth. Fill a buttered tin mould with the mixture and alternate layers of orange marmalade, and bake in a moderate oven. The excellence of this pudding will greatly depend on the mixing of the ingredients. Time, one hour and three-quarters to "bake. To l3eat the mixture, twenty-five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. One pound of marmalade is sufiicient for this pudding. Marmalade, Orange, Pudding (another way). Separate the yolks from the whites of half a dozen fresh eggs, beat the yolks in one basin, and half the whites in another. Mix together three or four ounces of clarified butter and a quarter-pound pot of marmalade, with as muoh sugar as will sweeten, and then mix with the beaten eggs, stirring in the whites when the mixture has been well worked with a wooden spoon for five minutes. Bake in a buttered dish. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. 27 Marmalade, Orange, Sauce. Take two large table-spoonfuls of orange marmalade, put it into a saucepan with a wine-glassful of sherry, another of water, and six lumps of white sugar. Boil until the sugar is dissolved, and thicken with arrowroot. Sufiicient for a largo pudding. Time to make, about five minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Marmalade, Orange, Scotch. There are many ways of making this mai-malade ; but most agree in the proportion of sugar to fruit. We give the simjilest and most economical way : Boil the oranges until they are tender, and can be easily pierced with the head of a pin. Wlien this is done, cut them open, remove the seeds, separate the pulp from the rind, and clear off the coarse filmy parts from the orange, and some of the white inner part of the rind. Shred the rind, the finer the better, and some of it may even be pounded and added with the shreds to the pulp. Clarify the sugar, allowing one pound and a half of sugar to each pound of fruit, and boil fifteen minutes. If a less bitter fiavour be liked, grate off a little of the outer skin before boiling. Sweet oranges are sometimes used for marmalade, and only a smaH portion of Seville, or lemon pulp and rind is added to flavour. Time to boil oranges, from three or four hours ; marmalade, about fifteen minutes. Marmalade, Orange, Transparent. Squeeze out all the juice from a dozen oranges, or from twelve China and twelve Seville. Strain, steep the pulp after the juice has been expressed, in a little water, rinse it well in it, and pour the water through a muslin with the rest of the juice. Boil together with a poimd and a half of sugar, clarified, to each pint of juice. Skim and boil for about twelve or fifteen minutes. The rind of a Seville orange, rubbed off on a few lumps of sugar, will improve the flavour of marmalade. Marrow. Marrow is the fatty matter which fills up the hoUow of the shaft of the bones. Its nourishing properties are the same as those of fats generally. It is much relished by epicures, but it ought to be observed that it is digested with difficulty, unless thinly-spread on toasted bread, with the addition of salt, and used in moderation. Marrow Bones. Saw the marrow bones into neat pieces, cover the ends with a paste made of flour and water, tie them in a floured cloth, and boil for two hours. Remove the cloth an., crust, put a napkin on a dish, set the bones upright, and serve with dry toast. The marrow can be seooped out and spread on the toast with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, before sending to table; but it is so likely to get cold, that we suggest the above method. Marrow bones are bought generally with silver-side of the round of beef, and weighed with the meat. Marrow Bones {see Beef Marrow Bones). Marrow Dumplings. Pour over two stale French rolls as much boiling milk as will soak them well. Squeeze them dry, and beat them until they are smooth. Beat two and a MAR ( 410 MAT half ounces of marrow and butter, mixed together rmtil like cream, and add these ingTedients to two well-whisked eggs. When thoroughly mixed, make into small balls, and drop these into boiling soup, or if intended as an accompaniment to roast meat, into boihng water. Marrow dumplings may be seasoned to adapt them to the dish for which they are intended. They are much used in Germany, but are not much known in England, except in the western counties, where they are principally composed of suet, flour, &c. Time, twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for ten dumplings. Marrow Dumplings, for Soup. Gut out the crumb of a light roll, and soak it for a minute in cold milk. Pour off the milk, and add two ounces of flour, half a pound of marrow, chopped, the yolks of six eggs, beaten to a froth, the crumb of a small ToU toasted, and cut into small dice, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. Stir all those ingi-edients well together, form them into small dmnplings, boil them in weak stock, and afterwards add them to the soup. Time to boil, an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for eight persons. Marrow Patties. Prepare as for Marrow Toast. Drop into boiling water, in which a little salt is dissolved, the maiTow cut into small pieces, and boil for one minute. Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a tea-spoonful of parsley, chopped, a tiny bit of shallot, half a tea- spoonful of lemon- juice, and pepper and salt to taste. Toss these ingredients lightly together until they are hot, fill the patty-cases, which should be already baked, and serve. Time to prepare, five minutes. Marrow Pudding. Place in a buttered mould, on layers of a quarter of a pound of bread, cut in thin slices, three ounces of marrow, chopped fine, an ounce of citron, cut small, and two ounces of pounded sweet almonds. Cover with a sauce made of half a pint of milk or cream, three eggs, well beaten, and a sufficient quantity of sugar and nutmeg to flavour the whole. BoU for an hour, or bake for forty minutes, turn the pudding out of the mould, and servo with a little sifted sugar over it. The almonds may be left out, and raisins or currants substituted. Probable cost, with cream, Is. 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Marrow Pudding, Boiled or Baked. ? Pour over half a pint of fine crumbs, prepared from stale roUs, thi-ee breakfast-cupfuls of boiling milk, flavoured with lemon-peel and grated nutmeg. Cover them to soak, then beat together the bread, seven ounces of carefullyshred marrow, and four weU-whisked eggs. Sweeten to taste, and boil in a buttered mould, or bake in a dish hned with puif paste. Time, two hours to boil ; an hour to bake. Sufficient for five or six persons. Marrow Pudding, or Fat Pudding {see Fat or Marrow Puddmg). Marrow Sausages, Beat up four eggs in a basin, leaving out one white. Add to them six ounces of captain's biscuit, previously soaked in boiling milk, and reduced to a pulp through a colander, two and a half ounces of ahnonds, blanched and sirred small, eight oivnccs of marrow, some powdered cinnamon and nutmeg, and salt and sugar to taste. Fill ordinary sausage-skins, and boil, but leave space in the skins to aUow of swelling. When boiled, lay the sausages on a sieve to cool, and when required for use, brush them with dissolved butter, and heat them before the fire or in a frying-pan. Marrow Tart. MLx well together with a little water, three marrow-bones, winter savoiy, thyme, sweet marjoram, the yolks of three eggs, four ounces of currants, and some grated nutmeg. Enclose these ingredients in a layer of puff paste, and fry with lard. Marrow, Vegetable {sec Vegetable Marrow). Marshmallow. This is a wholesome plant, and very palatable when boiled, and afterwards fried with onions and butter. In seasons of scarcity, the inliabitants of some of the eastern counties often have recoui'se to it as a principal article of food. Marshmallow "Water. A decoction of marshmaUow is efficacious in the cure of severe coughs, catan-hs, &c. Cut the roots into thin shces, and pour over them boiling water (about a pint to an ounce of the root), cleansing and peeling off the outer skin before infusion. The water may bo flavoured with the squeezed juice and grated rind of an orange, and sweetened with honey or brown sugar-candy. MarshmaUow leaves arc eaten dressed like lettuce, as a salad. Time, two hours to infuse. Marsh- Marigold. When gathered before they expand, the flowers of the marshmarigold, if preserved in vinegar, with the addition of salt, may be used as a substitute for capers. This plant is easily propagated by parting the roots in autumn, or by sowingthe seeds about the latter end of summer ; it requires a humid soil, and a somewhat shady situation. Maryland Biscuits. Take one pound of flour, one ounce of butter, and as much lukewarm milk as will wet the flour ; salt to taste. Pub the butter and flour together thoroughly, add the salt, and just enough milk to form a very stiff dough. Knead the dough, then poimd it with a roUing-pin. Break the dough in pieces, pound and knead it again, and continue this operation for two or three hours. It vill be very smooth and light when kneaded sufficiently. Make it up into small biscuits, and bake in a moderate oven. Mary's Cup Pudding {sk Little Slary's Cup Pudding). Mary's Pudding {sec Aunt Mary's Pudding). Mary's Sauce {see Queen Mary's Sauce for Koast Meat). Mate. The Paraguay tea-plant or mate is a native of the New World, and in some pai-ts of South America is used as extensively for MAT (411 ) MAY making a hot infusion as tea and coifeo are with us. It is a shi-ub which attains to about the size of an orange-tree, and grows wild in the forests of Paraguay and Brazil. The work of collecting and preparing the leaves of this plant for use is performed by the native Indians ; it is said that upwards of five million pounds of the mate-leaves are annually gathered in Paraguay alone. The preparation of tliis tea is by no means so carefully gone about as that of Chinese tea. At certain seasons of the year the natives penetrate the forest, and having selected a tree, cut off with a hatchet its principal branches. When a sufficient number of branches are cut down, they are placed on hurdles. A wood fire is then kindled, and when the flames have ceased to ascend, the hurdles are placed upon it. The branches are allowed to remain on the hurdles till they are dried. They are then removed from the fire, and a clean hard floor being made on some spot of ground, they are strewn upon it and beaten well with sticks. In this way the dried leaves and smaller branches are reduced to a coarse kind of powder, which is usually placed in bullock' s-hides. These, being sewed up, the tea is Beady for exportation. During the packing, however, some little selection is made, and three sorts of mate are known in the market. Mate, or Paraguay Tea, Preparation of. " The method of preparing this tea is very simple ; it is, nevertheless, peculiar. A cup, which is called a mate, is employed, which frequently consists of a gouid, but is sometimes made of silver or other material. Into this cup is introduced a long tube, called a bombilla, at the end of which is a bowl, pierced with holes, or a round piece of basket-work, the object of which is to allow the fluid to be sucked up without the solid particles passing into the mouth. A small quantity of the yerva is then placed in the cup, covering the bowl of the tube, and boiling water is poured upon it. A little sugar is frequently added, and when cold enough, the liquid is sucked up through the tube. The beverage thus formed has a slightly aromatic smell, but very much less than either tea or coffee, and is slightly bitter to the taste." Matelote Sauce for Pike {sec Pike, Matelote Sauce for) . Matelote Sauce, Ox Tail with {sec Ox Tail with Matelote Sauce). Matrimony Sauce (for dumpKngs). Put a bit of butter into cold water in a saucepan ; dust in a little flour, stirring one way tiU they are completely mixed; then add some brown sugar and a table-spoonful or so of vinegar. Continue stirring tQl the sauce boils ; pour into a basin, and serve. May Nectar. This delicately-flavoured and refreshing beverage is rarely drunk in England, partly because it is so little known, and also because the necessary herbs and ingredients are not aU easily obtained. They should be gathered just before the May nectar is to be made. Pluck six leaves of each of the following : Tarragon, garden geranium, milfoil, and pimpernel; half that quantity of black-currant, balm, mint, basil, lungwort, and balsam leaves. Slice in a lemon ; add also a few sprigs of lavender, half a pound of crushed white sugar, twenty leaves of balm, fifteen of peppennint, and two of the wild sweet-scented woodruff with the blossom. After having put these into a punch-bowl, pour over the whole four bottles of German wine. Flowers may be thrown on the top, but not until the last moment. The nectar must be allowed to steep for an hour or two before being di-unk. The probable cost depends greatly on the quantity of wine used. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. May "Wine. Throw into a pimch-bowl a bottle of hock, slice into that a lemon, an orange, or add a few strawberries, a glass of sherry, and sufficient crushed white sugar to sweeten. Now put in twelve little sprays of leaves of the sweet woodrufi', and if in bloom some of the blossoms. Let them steep an hour, and serve out with a ladle. Sweet-scented flowers are often thrown in, and must float on the top, and leaves of sweet herbs, and of other fragrant plants, such as the lemon-plant and lavender, may be added. May wine may be iced. Mayonnaise (a la Gelee). The basis for this gelee should be a firm savoury jelly. Aspic jelly is well suited for the purpose, and it may be adapted to any particular dish by dissolving and then adding the flavouring required. Take as much of the jeUy as may be wanted, dissolve it in an enamelled saucepan, and whisk it to a white froth with double its quantity of good oil, and for a quarter pint of the jelly, when in a dissolved state, about half a dozen spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and of salt, pepper, and sugar, a tea-spoonful mixed, but half the quantity should be salt. Whisk all well, taking care to pour in the oil and vinegar, which should be added last, slowly and by degrees. When smooth and white like cream the mayonnaise is ready. It should be whisked over ice. Mayonnaise Sauce. A mixture of eggyolks, oil, vinegar, or lemon-juice. The principal point to be attended to in preparing this sauce is the mode of mixing, which demands time, patience, and nicety. Break two or three egg-yolks into a bowl with a salt-spoonful of pepper and salt mixed. Beat the eggs smooth, then add from time to time, during the mixing, two or tkree drops of the best Lucca oil until two table-spoonfuls have been used, and the mixture is a smooth cream. Do the same with the vinegar, which may be a mixture of tarragon, chilli, &c., with plain vinegar, or with lemon-juice, to suit the dish for which the sauce is intended. Continue to drop in oil and vinegar alternately until the requisite consistency is gained. The proportions to be observed, are To three egg-yolks, three tablespoonfuls of the best oil, with vinegar to make it of the desiicd thinness. Use a wooden or silver spoon for mixing. Mayonnaise Sauce (another way). See Lobster Salad. Mayonnaise Sauce (another way). Mix smoothly together the yolks of two hard MEA { 412 ) MEA boiled eggs, and the yolk of a raw one, witli a salt-spoonful of salt, one of pepper, and one of mustard. Then add, a few drops at a time, a quarter of a pint of best salad-oil, and haK that quantity of vinegar, stirring and rubbing well all the time, to prevent the oil from settling on the top. AVTien these ingredients are mixed to a smooth batter, add two table-spoonfuls of good gravy or jelly, one of rich cream, the juice of half a lemon, and one shallot, pounded. The secret of making this sauce is to mix it thoroughly, and add the different ingredients very gradually. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient to cover a moderate-sized dish of cold meat, fish, &c. Mead, Simple. A simple, delicious beverage, seldom made except by the cottager 'vvho keeps bees. After disposing of the bulk .of the honey-produce, the goodwife economises what remains for the use of the family, thus : ? Dissolve a pound, or more, of honey in three , quarts of water. Boi 1, skim, and reduce the liquid . to half a gallon. Fill the vessel in which it is placed, cover, and let the mead be undisturbed for two or three days, when it is ready for use. The combs, after being drained, are washed in ?warm water, that nothing shall be lost, and the ? liquid is strained from the sediment, to be used ? to enrich the mead or to make the family beer, ?with the addition of a little yeast. It is kept ' varm by the fire for a few days to ferment, ? then bottled. Mead, To Prepare (another way). The following is one of the most approved methods of brewing mead: Let the whites of six eggs be well incorporated with twelve gallons of ?water, to which add twenty pounds of honey. Boil these ingredients for an hour, then put into the liquor a little ginger, clove, cinnamon, and mace, together with a small sprig of rosejna ry. As soon as the liquor is cool, add a spoonful of yeast, and pour the mead into a vessel, which should be filled up while it ivorks. When the fermentation ceases, close the cask, and deposit it for six or eight months in a vault or cellar of an equal temperature, and in which the liquor will not be liable to be affected by the changes of the weather. At the end of that time it may be bottled, and will then be fit for use. A more simple, and to some palates more agreeable, method, is to mix the honey in the proportion of one pound to a quart of water, which is to be boiled, scummed, and fermented in the usual manner, without the addition of any aromatic substances. It ought to be preserved in a similar manner, and bottled at the expiration of the same time. Mead Wine. To ten gallons of water put ten pounds of honey and a quarter of a pound of good hops ; boil for an hour, and when cooled to the warmth of new milk, ferment with yeast spread on a toa.st. Let it stand in the tub two days ; then put it into the cask. The wine will be fit for bottling in twelve months. Honey of a year old is better for this purpose than new. Meagre Soup (Soupe Maigre). Before beginning, wash thoroughly all your green vegetables, peel your roots, and throw them into cold water. The proportions of each must depend very much upon what you can get. The soup, when finished, should be of the thickness of ordinary pea-soup. Take five or six handfuls of common sorrel, two large lettuces from which the withered leaves only have been removed, a small bunch of chervdl, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Shred all these very fine. Slice and chop onions, carrots, and leeks very fine. Throw these into your soup-kettle of boiling water, with some whole potatoes of a mealy sort, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thjTne, and a good lump of butter. Season with pepper and salt. Stir from time to time, to prevent any of the ingredients from sticking to the bottom. When they are thoroughly cooked, crush as many potatoes as you want to thicken the soup ; the others may be served up with fish or eggs, or -with meat. The soup may be also thickened with bread -which makes it more nourishing steeped in a little of the liquor, and then broken up and mixed with the soup. Meal Fritters, Indian {see Indian Meal). Meal Pudding (American). A breakfast cupful of Indian corn-meal and a tea-spoonful of salt, mixed with boiling milk, makes a 2)udding much liked by the Americans; and, when enriched with eggs, of which there should be four to this quantity of meal, it cannot fail to please almost any palate. The eggs must not be added until the mixture has cooled. Boil in a buttered mould, and serve with syrup and butter, or -with any sweet sauce. Time, two hours and a half in a mould. A quart of milk is sufficient for the above ingredients. Meal Puddings, in Skins. See that the skins are well washed. Let them soak for twelve hours in salt and water, then fill them, as for ox-blood puddings, allowing room for sweUing. Make a stuffing of two pounds of good sifted oatmeal, one pound and a half of finelyshred suet, a large onion, or two middle-sized ones minced, pepper, salt, and a little allspice. Boil, but do not put them into quite boiling water. Time, about thirty-five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 9d. Sufficient for twentyfour skins. Meal "Sterz" (a German recipe) . Into a quart and a half of boiluig water throw half a pound of oatmeal, or any other meal. Boil quickly for eight minutes, keeping the lid of the saucepan closely down. Turn the " sterz" verj' carefully without breaking, boil another eight minutes, then throw off all the water except about a quarter of a pint. Break up the "sterz" lightly with a fork, add two large table-spoonfuls of hot butter, and a little salt, and let the dish remain near the fire for fifteen minutes, still closely covered. Just before ser ang, pour more warm butter over the "sterz." Time, thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Meat and Bread Pudding {see Bread and Meat Pudding, Portable). Meat and Vegetables, An Extract of {see Mirepoise) . MEA (413) MEA Meat and Vegetable Stock. Having put the necessary quantity of meat, bones, and trimmings, with a proper proportion of water, into the stewpan, chop the vegetables, allowing to each quart of water a lettuce, a head of celery, two small onions, each stuck with a clove, a leek, a turnip, a carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, some parsley, and, unless the soup is to be white, a dessert-spoonful of brown sugar, and half an ounce of salt. Stew from five to six hours ; pulp the vegetables, and strain thr.ough a sieve for use. A pint of water is enough for a pound of meat. Meat, Australian {see Australian Moat). Meat Balls, Minced, Pried. Take some roast mutton, some chestnuts, and neck of veal boiled in water with salt and vinegar. Cut them up separately into small pieces, mix them with seasoning herbs, also cut as fine as possible. Add enough salt and pepper to season the materials, and make them into a mass with the yolks of three eggs. Roll this into balls, fry in butter until done, and then serve with tomato sauce. Meat Cake, Moulded. Pounded or potted meat does best for this cake. Cut slices of cold roast veal, without any of the brown part, and lean ham ; pound them to a paste in a mortar. Boil eight or ten eggs hard, and mince parsley enough to fiU the half of a quarter-pint cup, season with a little pounded mace and pepper. Lay the egg-yolks in halves, at the bottom of a buttered mould, and strew some of the parsley over them. Next, make a layer of the pounded meat, which should be moistened with a little good stock or gravy ; arrange the egg-yolks as before, and fill up with seasoning and meat. Put bits of butter over the top, and bake in a gentle oven. The cake should not be removed from the mould until cold. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Sufficient, two pounds of meat for four persons. Meat, Cold. When newly-cooked meat is brought from table, put it on a dry dish ; if the gravy is left about it the meat becomes sour. To enjoy cold meat it should be cooked the day before, and not cut, as the juices thus remain, and add a richness to the meat. Meat, Cold, How to Use. Mince up any cold meat you may have at hand with parsley, pepper, and salt. Mix with it one-third of its weight of bread-crumbs, and either bake it or boil it in a basin. If preferred, it may be made into small rolls, and fried in butter. Meat, Cooking of. " In whatever manner meat is cooked," observes ]Mr. Donovan, "there is a considerable diminution of substance, the loss consisting chiefly of water, juices, soluble matter, and fat. In an economical point of \-iew, a comparison of the loss incurred in the two most usually employed processes ? roasting and boiling is interesting, yet it has not occupied the attention of the public as much as the importance of the subject seems to demand. Professor Wallace, of Edinburgh, has given lis the results of some experiments made to determine the loss which meat undergoes in cooking. It is to be regretted that it is not more in detail, and that the weight of the bone in each joint was not ascertiuned ; but still it is of great value. The results, reduced to 100 pounds of meat, are as follows : lbs. 100 lbs. of beef lost in boiling . . 26 100 lbs. of beef lost in roasting . . 32 100 lbs. of beef lost in baking . . 30 100 lbs. of legs of mutton, averaging about 94 lbs. each, lost in boiling 21 100 lbs. of shoulders of mutton, averaging 10 lbs. each, lost in roasting 31J 100 lbs. of loins of mutton, averaging 8 lbs. 12 oz. each, lost in roasting 35 100 lbs. of necks of mutton, averaging 10 lbs. each, lost in roasting . 23 J Thus the loss in boiling beef or mutton was less than in roasting. And it appears that meat loses by the cooking about one-fifth to onethird. A few years since, I undertook the superintendence of some experiments of the same tendency. These trials were made on several parts of the different animals, with as much attention to accuracy as the nature of the subject permitted. They were made on different qualities of the same kind of meat, at various seasons, both in England and Ireland. Such experiments are exceedingly troublesome, and occasion no small inconvenience; it is, therefore, the less surprising that the subject has been so little investigated; and the followingresults, in the absence of any others so particularly detailed, will perhaps prove interesting. Allowance must be made for the nature of such processes. The degree of fatness was in* all cases brought to a standard by cutting off all excess, and leaving the meat in a proper state for the housekeeper's use. The meat was in all cases cooked as nearly as possible to the same degree, and the weights were determined with exactness; avoirdupois weight throughout i.s intended. The bones were entirely stripped of their meat previous to their being weighed." A piece of beef roasted formed the first experiments. It consisted of four of the largest ribs, and was not remarkably fat ; its weight was 11 lbs. 1 oz. During the process of roasting it lost 2 lbs. 6 oz., of which 10 oz. were fat, and 28 oz. were water dissipated by evaporation. When the meat was dissected off with the utmost care, the bones weighed 16 oz. Hence the weight of meat, properly roasted and fit for the table,, was but 7 lbs. 11 oz., out of 11 lbs. 1 oz. origi-. naUy submitted to experiment. Other part* were submitted to similar tests, and we learn cf mutton: A leg of mutton, weighing 9 lbs.,. when boiled gave 1 lb. of bone, shank included ; it lost in the boiHng 1 lb. 2 oz. ; the meat weighed 7 lbs. 2 oz. A similar leg, weighing ? 9 lbs. 6 oz., afforded 15 oz. of bone, and lost12 oz. in the boihng; the meat weighed 7 lb&. 1 1 oz. A leg of small Scotch mutton, weighing 6 lbs., afforded lO - oz. of bone, lost 5 oz'. in the boiling, and the meat weighed 5 lbs. The following experiments are miscellaneous : =. A fore-quarter of lamb, weighing 9 lbs., afforded, when roa.sted, 20 oz. of bone, and lost 1 lbs. in the roasting ; the meat weighed Gibs. A hand of salt pork, weighing 4 lbs. 5 oz., lost in boiling 1 1 oz. ; the bone weighed 9 oz. ; the 1 meat was 8 lbs, 1 oz, A knuckle of veal, weighing MEA ( 414 ) MEA 6 IIds. when duly boiled lost -3- lb. Its bone, perfectly cleared of meat, weighed 2 lbs. 6 oz.; the meat weighed 3 lbs. 2 oz. A goose, properly trussed, weighed 4 lbs. ; in this state it was roasted, and when sufficiently done was found to have lost 18 oz. The skeleton weighed 12 oz. ; the meat weighed 3 lbs. A turkey, with its liver and gizzard, weighing 4 lbs. 14 oz., was boiled; itlo8tl2oz. ; the skeleton weighed ISj oz. ; the meat 3 lbs. 4 J- oz. A young duck, weighing 20 oz., lost 5,f oz. in roasting; its bones weighed 2Jg oz. ; the meat was 12: oz. A fowl, with its liver and gizzard, weighing IJ lbs., was roasted; it lost 3 oz. ; the skeleton weighed 41 oz., and the flesh IGJ-oz. A fine mackerel which, when trimmed and ready for boiling, weighed 23 oz. (including the weight of the roe, 23 oz.) It lost If oz. in the boiling ; the skeleton, carefully collected, along with giUs, fins, and tail, weighed 41- oz. Meat Croquettes. Take any kind of cooked moat at hand. The remains of fowl, a few slices of ham, with an appropriate seasoning of chopped nnishrooms, grated nutmeg, pepper, &c. ; or cold roast beef, with a small bunch of mixed savoury herbs, some minced shallot, an anchovy, popper, and salt. Put the meat into a stewpan. If fowl, allow to every half pound of meat two ounces of ham, which may be chopped, or cut in small shoes. Moisten with three table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and stew for a few minutes, when stir in the yolks of three eggs, and let it stand until the eggs are set. Turn the meat out on a Large dish, spread it over evenly, and when quite cold divide it into equal portions, and, with the help of fine bread-crumbs, roU into balls or make them taper, according to fancy ; smear woU with egg, and cover thickly with more bread-crumbs. Fry at once in boiling lard, drain, and serve on a napkin, with a garnish of parsley. For beef croquettes, add oysters, cut into four, after the eggs have set, and use some of their liquor for the sauce. Time, from five to eight minutes to fry. Sufficient, a pound of meat for three persons. Meat. Essences and Extracts of. As jjreparations of meat called essences or extracts are now largely introduced, and are attracting considerable public attention, we should be wrong in omitting to mention them here. Their great merit is their convenience, and the almost instantaneous promptness with which by theiimeans a basin of soup can be served. The essence must be selected and prepared ?ftith some care and judgment. If the dose is too large, the broth becomes unpalatable. This subject hiis recently received much attention from members of the medical profession and others, and various opinions have been expressed, but we neveitheless think our readers, like ourselves, will prefer relying on an able medical opinion ratlier than on ttieir own unsupported judgment. These essences are prepared from fresh meat in such a manner that the fibre and fat are left behind, only the ozmazome (or flavouring property), certain salts, and a very small quantity of albumen, remain. The quahty of this food is determined by the firstmentioned substance, and with a tea-spoonful of the essence about a pint of broth may be made, which, although thin to the palate, is as full of the flavour of meat as when beef-tea is prepared at home. The salts are not pei'coptible to the senses, but they consist, in part, of phosphates, and are very valuable. The albumen is necessarily in verj' small quantity, from the small amount of the extract of meat which is used. Liebig's essence of meat, however, is a valuable addition to a traveller's stores, since it occupies a very small space, and, with hot water, he may at any time prepare a basin of soup in two minutes, which would be more useful to him than any other fluid. It is particularly suited to those who abstain from intoxicating di-inks. A considerable amount of fibre, with fibrine, gelatine, fat, and some albumen, is left behind. That fibre is digestible is proved by the fact, that in fresh meat it is nearly all digested ; that it is highly nutritious is proved by its chemical composition. Hence, where health exists, it is best not to throw away this material. That it will not alone support life is true ; the salts necessary to hfe, and fat highly important to life, are absent from it ; but that does not in the least prove that it is not of great value as part of a dietary. When one teaspoonful of the essence has been dissolved in about a pint of hot water, and seasoned with pepper and salt, it forms an agreeable and stimulating beverage, but shovdd not be re- garded as food for every-day use. In this respect it must be ranked with tea and coffee. It may be advantageously thickened by adding a little sago ; and vermicelli, macaroni, and various Italian pastes, are agreeable and proper additions. Its proper place is that of a luxury, and in some states of disease it is also a valuable food ; but in health, the quantity of nutriment is too small to be computed, and its action upon nutrition is rather indirect, by stimulating the vital actions, than direct, by supplying food. For ordinary iise, it is better for the housewife to make beef -tea from shins of beef, so as to obtain much gelatine, or from gravy-beef, and to serve up the sohd part as food at the same meal. Our continental neighbours eat their bouilli and potage at the same meal ; and so should we. Meat Gravy for Sauces. This preparation may be used in the composition of various sauces. It is prepared by straining the graN-y produced by the cooking of meat, and boiling it down at a gentle heat to the consistence of sauce. Sometimes it is thickened, ?without being boiled down, by the addition of various materials, such as a roux of flour and butter, the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, tomato marmalade, or by chestnuts roasted and crushed to powder. Meat Gravy for Sauces and Similar Purposes. Place in a stewpan slices of bacon, veal, and some minced ham. The weight of meat put in will of course depend upon the quantity of juice required. The rule is usually to employ one pound of meat for each half-pound of gravy. Then place in the stewpan some onions, carrots, parsnips, celei'v, parsley, thyme, chives, cloves, nutmeg, and pepper. Place the pan over a gentle fii-e until all the juice contained in the meat has escaped, MEA (415 ) MEA then increase the heat until the juice has become as thick as it can be made without lisk of biu'ning it. llemove the meat, and put as many lumps of butter the size of an egg- as there were pounds of meat employed. Thicken with a xiroper quiuitity of flour, and form a roux. When this is done, put the meat back mto the stewpan, pour in some stock broth, simmer for two hoiu's, skun the liquid, and strain it. Meat Glaze. Fnll pai-ticulars regarding Meat Glaze are given in the article Glaze. Meat Glaze, in a hurry. Glaze is an extract of meat, which, when condensed by boiling, becomes the thick yarnish so useful to the cook for giving an inviting appearance to a hot or eold joint, poultry, or vegetables. Boil down a strong- stock or gravy until it seems thickish as it drops from the spoon with which it is being stirred, and becomes a firm jelly when cold. Veal being more gelatinous than other meat, produces the best glaze. To make glaze in a huiTy, if no stock be at hand, slice a quarter of a pound of veal as thinly as possible, and fiy it over a slow fire in a small pan with ii bit ef butter ; draw the stewpan from the fire, and stir in a veiy small cup of water ; add pepper and salt, and again stir it until it has boiled thick ; then strain it into a pot and use, lapng it on with a brush. When more than one coat is required, dry before putting on another. Meat Jelly for Pies {see Pics, Meat JcUy for). Meat, Liebig's Extract of (? ? Liebig's Extract of Meat). Meat Patties. Prepare the moat in the usual way, mince neatly and fill pattypans lined with puff paste. Or, make a plaui puff paste, roll thin, and form the patties like apple-puffs with the mince enveloped in the paste. Pinch the edges closely together, and fiy a nice brown. Time, ten minutes to fiy. Meat Pie (a la Don Pedro). This is a kind of ragout put into a tin made expressly for the dish. Take some mutton-chops, either from the loin or neck, trim them neatly and toss them, with some chopped parsley, butter, pepper, salt, &c., in a stewpan over a slow fire. Place the chops, with some good bro'svn gravy, into the tin baking-dish " the Don Pedro tin" and add slices of raw ham. Cover with the lid, but first fill in with mashed potatoes to the brim ; bake for two hours in a slow oven, when the tin cover+may be taken off, and the chops will be found tender and succulent. Probable cost of chops, Is. per pound. Meat Pies, Forcemeat for (-tre Forcemeat for Meat Pies). Meat Pies, Pastry for (?r Pastry, French, for Meat Pies, &c.) . Meat Porcupine. Press into a plain oval mould the following: A haK pound of pork, and one pound of rump-steak (chopped finely), one clove of garhc (shi'cd), a tea-spoonful of salt, pepper, and nutmeg the whole moistened and well beaten up with two eggs. Turn the mi.xture out of the mould, and stick pieces of fat bacon all over it, to resemble a porcupine. Stew it for an hour in hot butter, first browning all over. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. MEAT POECUPINK. Sufficient as a supper dish for four or five persons. Meat Preserving. Meat taints soon, and few know how to render it, when tainted, fit for use. Some rub the joint over with pyroligneous acid, which effectually prevents it turning bad, but imparts a very disagreeable flavour. To preserve meat, thoroughly examine it when it comes from the butcher's, carefully remove flyblows, if there be any, wipe with a perfectly dry doth all the flaps and crevices, so as to leave no damp, which soon imparts a disagreeable taint to meat, cut out all the kernels and perceptible veins, wrap a piece of muslin lightly round the joint, sew it up, and hang it, if possible, in a cuiTent of air in a cool place. Meat, Quality of. This is influenced by several circumstances, each of which produces a peculiar difference in the flesh of the same species of animal. The principal circumstances alluded to are the breed, the sex, the age, the nature of the pasturage or fooipl on which the animal has been fed, its state of health, the treatment immediately previous to its being slaughtered, and the mode in which it lias been deprived of life and in which the carcass is di'essed. Meat Rissoles, English. Prepare meat beef, mutton, veal, poultry, or game as before directed for Meat Croquettes. The rissoles may be made up in the form of cones egged, bread-crumbed, fried without paste, and served with a gravj*. If prefen-ed with paste, cut out double the number of rounds that are requu-ed of rissoles; on one round l lace the mince, egg the edge, and covci- with a corresponding round. Fry, first brushing them with egg, of a nice bro vn ; use butter, and drain the rissoles before seiwing. Send to table on a napkin, garnished with parsley. Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat. Meat Rissoles, German. Fry two or throe ounces of bacon cut into small squares, and then add the following ingredients : To a well-beaten egg, stir a quarter of a pound of finely-minced cold meat, a quarter of a pound of soaked bread (squeezed dry) , a table-spoonful of chopped onion, another of parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. When these ingredients are fi-ied sufficiently, tui-n them out into a basin vintil nearly cold; then add a couple MEA (416) MEG of eggs, beat all well together, form the mixture into balls about the size of an egg, and fry for six minutes, or ch-op them into boiling soup, stock, or water ; pour rich gravy over them before serving. Time to make, half an hour. Sufficient for six balls. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of cold meat. Meat Strudels. Make a paste as follows : Beat well four eggs, keeping out the whites of two ; add to the eggs an ounce of dissolved butter, and dredge in as much flour as will make a dough firm to the touch and quite smooth. Divide the dough into pieces of equal weight, about the size of an egg ; roll each piece into a ball, and then with the rolling-pin flatten it to the desired size and thinness. Mince any kind of meat very fine ; season and flavour according to taste, and moisten with a gravy thickened, or some thick cream. RoU the strudels up, when, if the paste has been rolled to an oval shape, they will be large in the middle and tapering at both ends. Butter the bottom of a wide-bottomed braising-pan ; lay in the strudels an inch or more apart ; put hot coals on the top of the lid, and bake over a slow fire. When the strudels are risen and beginning to colour, brush them over with hot ndlk, and finish the baking ; they should be a light bro vn. The above recipe will be applicable to any kind of preserve, sweet rice, or any savoury mince of fish, lobster, shrimps, &c. Meat, Washing. The microscope shows that on the outside of uncooked meat there is a deposit which mere rinsing in water will not remove ; and as it is not desirable that this should be boiled off in the water, the meat should be well and thoroughly washed before cooking, and afterwards carefully wiped dry. Mecca Loaves. Put a half pint of milk, or of milk and water, into an enamelled stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter. When the milk boils, and the butter is dissolved, draw the pan from the fire, and stir in, gradually, from four to five ounces of fine flour and three or four eggs, one by one. Flavour -wdth orange essence, and add, just before baking, a sm.all cupful of cream, well frothed, which should be stirred gently -svith the rest. Drop this paste from a table-spoon on to a baking-sheet, at equal distances ; do this slowly, to give the loaves the proper elongated form. Cover with beaten egg, and strew roughly-powdered lump sugar, like pearl-barley, and dredge some more fine dust of sugar over them. Let the loaves be quite two inches apart. Bake to a good golden yellow, in a moderate oven. When cold, and about to be served, an-ange the loaves in a circle, and fill the hollow with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of liqueur. Time, from ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Mecklenburg Liver Sausages. Take the liver from a pig while it is quite fresh ; mince it, and then pass it through a coarse sieve, but first ascertain its weight. To a pound of the liver, mix a half pound of pork (boiled tender), that has been cut from any part of the pig, although slices from the breast are usually taken. Take the tongue, kidneys, I and some of the inside fat; chop this meat, but do not mince it, and mix all with the raw liver. Season with salt, pepper, powdered cloves or allspice, and a few sage-leaves reduced to powder. The top-fat, from the boiling of the meat, and the liquor should both be used. Put the fat, with the meat, into the skins when tilling, and boil the sausages in the liquor (salted), which must be made quite hot before they are put in. Plunge them, when cooked, into cold water ; then hang them to dry. To be smoked, or not. The skins must be only threeparts filled. Time to boil, half an hour. Mecklenburg Liver Sausages (another way) . See Liver Sausages, Mecklenburg, Smoked. Mecklenburg Sausages. Prepare the following ingredients, with which fill the sausage-skins, and boil half an hour : Chop finely equal proportions of fat and lean pork, and to every pound add a small tea-spoonful of salt, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and half that quantity of ground allspice. If these ingredients appear too dry, they may be moistened with a little wine or brandy. AVhen made with equal weight of lean beef and fat pork, then pressed one whole day and smoked, these sausages will keep, without being cooked, for many weeks ; they are usually sliced, and eaten raw. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Medlar Jelly. Get quite ripe medlars, without bruise ; let them simmer gently, with water about haH an inch over the tops. When fit to pulp, strain the fruit through a jelly-bag; if not clear the first time, repeat the straining ; add to every pint of juice, a pound of good loaf sugar, and boil fast, skimming constantly. AVhen cooled a little, pour the jelly into glasses, or into moulds, to be turned out for dessert. Time, one hour ; to boil fast. Medley Pie, Leicestershire (??? Leicestershire Medley Pie). Meg Merilees Soup. A soup, or stew, for the sportsman or coimtry gentleman when game is abundant. In seasons of scarcity, meat helps to form the basis or stock ; but for the gourmet, boil down a rather old hare, with the blood, the trimmings, and inferior parts of venison, and any game-bones ; but all should be fresh. Boil in three quarts of water, with a bunch of savoury herbs, parsley, two large turnips, two carrots, two middle-sized onions, each stuck with a clove, a dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and one of allspice. When boiled to a pulp, strain, and add to the stock as great a variety of game as can be procured a young hare, or part of one (neatly jointed), black cock, partridge, pheasant, grouse, &c. all cut, and well spiced, to be fried slightly, or not,, according to taste, before being put into the strained stock. The blood of the hare must not be omitted. Mix a little broth, and boil with a good thickening of rice-flour, to be afterwards stirred into the rest of the stock. More seasoning will be required of allspice, pepper, and salt. When boiling, throw in a dozen biitton-onions, two sticks of celery (cut into quarterinch lengths), and a small white cabbage (quartered). Simmer gently, until the game is MEL (417) MEL done, Isutnot overdone. Any additional flavouring may be given to the stew, and forcemeatballs, made of the Hver of the hare, may be introduced; but this is not frequently done. Time, three hours to boil stock. Molon. This fruit is generally used in England only for dessert, but on the Continent, where it grows more abundantly, it is served with the bouilli, and is even frequently eaten before the first course, as it is supposed to sharpen the appetite. In this case, pepper and salt are the only accompaniments. When for dessert, it should be sent to table in a dish, tastefully adorned with flowers and smaller fruit, so as to afford a pleasing contrast of colours to the eye. Sifted sugar and brandy are generally eaten -wath this delicious succulent fruit. The common, or musk-melon, is an herbaceous, succulent climbing or trailing annual, which has been cultivated for the sake of its fruit in hot Eastern countries from time immemorial. The water-melon is remarkable for the quantity of water it contains namely, ninety-four per cent. No wonder, it has been well said, that old Slehemet Ali should have been able to eat up an entire forty-pound melon after the substantials of his dinner were disposed of. Melon, Compote of. Pare and slice the fruit, and place it in boiling syrup, which should be made of white sugar, water, and any light wine. When the fruit is tender, lay it out in a dish, and cover it with syrup. Time to boil, five to ten minutes. Probable cost, according to the season. Sufiicient, a pound of sugar to half a pint of water. Melon Grlace. Prepare a syrup as follows : Dissolve three pounds of loaf sugar in a quart of water ; whisk in part of the white of an egg, then set it to boil gently for five minutes. Add a little cold water at two different times, and strain through a fine muslin into an enamelled stewpan. Flavour with essence of vamlla. Cut a melon lengthwise in good slices, remo -ing the rind and seeds, put them into the above syrup while hot, and let them be covered up until next day, when boil the syrup, and pour it hot over the fruit ; do this on three successive days. Lastly, put the fruit into jars, and poiu- the hot sjTup over. When cold cover with bladder, and keep in a cool place. Melon Kalteschale. Kalteschale is a sort of cold soup, but when prepared from fruit is a most acceptable substitute for pies, tarts, &c. Between layers of thinly-sliced melon strew three ounces of sifted white sugar, and the juice of a lemon. Let them stand for about an hour, then throw over them a pint of Grerman -wnne. Stir carefully, but do not break the slices of melon. The kalteschale should be prepared in a bowl, and seiwed with rusks, or spongecakes. Time to make, an hour and a half. Melon Mangoes. Choose small, late melons, green and sound. Wipe them clean, and make a cii-cular incision round the stem, which piece remove, to scoop out the pulped part and seeds. ]\Iake a pickle of salt and water that will float an egg, lay the melons into a broad-bottomed pan or tub, having first replaced the piece taken out, and pour the pickle over them, two inches above the top. In twenty-four hours take them out, and di-ain on a sieve. Make a seasoning of a small quantity of scraped horseradish, shred shaUots, equal parts of bruised mustard and coriander seed, a few peppercorns, allspice, pounded mace, and cloves. FiU the hollow of the melons with the spice, &c. ; put in beans, small onions, and cucumbers. The onions should be peeled and boiled for a minute or two, the beans, &c., scalded, and the piece sewed on firmly with coarse thread, always remembering to lay the cut sides up when the melons are put into the jar. Boil as much vinegar as will bo rcquiicd to cover with the seeds of the fruit. Strew cloves, pepper, and put in a fevi capsicums before straining over the melons. Cover with a cloth, and let the jar stand near the fire for an hour or so. Next day, and for four or five successive days, make the vinegar hot, adding at the last heating about half an ounce of garlic, the same of white peppercorns, ginger, and cardamom seeds. Boil twenty minutes. Cover when cold, and set aside for use. Melon, Pickled, for Venison. Take melons about the size of a large orange, and before they are quite ripe. When peeled, and the seeds are taken out, slic? them into a bowl of good vinegar, and cover up for a week or more. At the end of that time di-ain the fruit, and simmer it until tender in an enamelled pan mth fresh vinegar. Again drain the sHces, and when dry make a thin syrup by boiling together a povmd of sugar with a pint and a half of water. Skim well, put the melons into the bottles in which they are to remain, and cover with the syrup. In eight or ten days throw off haK of it, and fill the bottles -ftdth boiled \dnegar in which the flavour of a few cloves has been extracted. Let it be quite cold before being added. Melon, Preserved- Pare some middlesized, not over-ripe, melons they are better than large ones for this preserve take out the pulp and seeds, from which press the juice. Wash the melons, and add the water to the juice to be reserved for making the syrup. Divide the melons into eight jiieces, lengthwise, and soak them for twenty-foui- hours in cold water, in which has been put salt and vinegar, allowing two tea-spoonfuls of white vinegar and one of salt to about every half gallon of water. Let the fruit be well covered and then drained; MEL (418) MIL have ready a syrup made -with the jiiice from pulp and seeds, boil a pound of good loaf sugar with every half-pint of the water, and let it grow cold. Put the pieces of melon into an enamelled pan with the cold syrup, make it gradually hot, and when ready to boU simmer and skim for about twelve or fifteen minutes, when the fruit should be put into a bowl carefully, and the syrup thrown over. For three successive days pour off the syrup, and boil for two minutes on the third and last time. Add an ounce of bruised ginger, arrange the melon in large wide-mouthed glass bottles, pour the syrup over, and when cold tie down with bladder. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the syrup. Melon Water Ice. To make a quart of melon-water ice, skin and pound the whole of a ripe melon, and pass it through a sieve. Mix with a pint of syrup a little orange-flower water and the strained juice of two lemons. Freeze. Melts, Ragout of Pish. Wash the melts in cold water, and then steep them in boiling water to which some vinegar has been added. Eemove the melts from the water, dry them on a cloth, and cook for a quarter of an hour with parsley, chives, salt, and pepper, in half a glassful of stock broth, and the same quantity of white wine, mixed with a few spoonfuls of bland dc veau. Take out the melts when cooked, evaporate the liquid in which they were cooked to the consistence of a sauce, and thicken with two ounces of butter, mixed with a little flour. Before sending this dish to table, remember to squeeze the juic? of a lemon into it. This ragout may also be prepared by another method. Cut into small pieces two onions, one carrot, and half a parsnip, fry them in butter with parslej% chives, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When nearly ready add a little flour, and mbc it well with the other materials. Afterwards pour a sufiicient quantity of bouillon maigre, or water, and half a glassful of white wine. Boil the materials in a stewpan over a steady fire until they are reduced one-half. Now strain off the clear liquid, and simmer the melts in it for about twenty minutes. When about to send to table, mix with it the yolks of two eggs beat up with cream ; simmer the whole at a gentle heat, to thicken it ; and add the juice of a lemon. Meringues. Take of finely-powdered sugar one pound, mix it lightly and expeditiously with eight well-whisked whites of eggs these should bo to a high froth. Wlicn the sugar has been all put in, fill a table-spoon with the paste, and smooth it with another spoon to the desired egg-like shape, always remembering that the meringues for so they may be now called are not worked too much, and that they are baked as soon after they are moulded as possible, that they may not lose their stiffness. Drop them separately, and about two inches apart, on strips of firm white paper, and keep them well moulded with the spoon. Dust theni dth sifted sugar, and put the strips on the baking-tia into a moderate oven for half an hour, or, as some prefer, a quick oven. In the latter the oven should not be closed, or the meiingucs unwatched, for if they are too much colom-ed, their appearance wiU be spoiled. When sufficiently coloured and a little cooled, pass a thin knife under each, to slip them from the paper, scoop out a little of the soft part, the hollow to be fUled with thick well-flavoured cream, and the two halves fastened together with a little of the meringue mixture. To secure variety, finely-chopped almonds or curi-ants may be sprinkled over the top, and the insides may be filled with firm jelly or a rich preserve. Serve piled high. Probable cest 2s. Sufiicient for two dishes. Meringue of Apples. Take twelve applies (russet or Ribston pippins are the best, as they are less watery than others), cut them in quarters, take out the cores, and slice. Place them in a stewpan, and stir over a brisk fire for a quarter of an hour with six ounces of butter and a quarterof a pound of pounded sugar. When cool, add two table-spoonfuls of jam, according to taste. Place the whole in the form of a pyramid in the centre of a dish, and cover thickly with the whites of three eggs, whipped to a firm cream with a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar. Lay this mixture on, sprinkle more sugar over, and bake. When done, the meiingues should have acquired a pale yellow colour. Time, about ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, Is. 7d., exclusive of jam. Merton Almond Pudding. Whisk well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of six. Blanch and pound to a fine powder six ounces of sweet almonds, add it to the eggs, together with i-ather more than half a jwund of sifted sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and the rind of one grated. Whisk all these ingredients for nearly an hour ; butter a piedish, put in the pudding, and bake iminediately for half an hour in a brisk oven. Sufficient for six persons. Probable ost, Is. 6d. Merveille Broth (Invalid Cookery). Cut uji a chicken, and put it into a stewpan with the broth fr-om the boiling of a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot. Let the chicken simmer until tender, then take it out, and add to the liquor some salt, from two to three ounces of prepared Iceland moss, a bunch of sweet herbs, a pint of fresh-gathered gardensnails, and ten or twelve crayfish- both snails and crayfish to be first pounded in a mortar. Cover the stewpan closely, and simmer gently for two hours. iStrain, and use in cases of bronchitis and catan-h. Middleton Pudding. Make a rich batter with two table-spoonfuls of flour, a pint of new milk, a little salt, two dessert-spoonfuls of good moist sugar, and the whole of eight eggs, well beaten, first separately and then together. Flavour with nutmeg and the grated rind of a lemon. Boil ia a floured doth, leaving space to swell. Serve with wine or other pudding sauce. Time, two hours to boil. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Milan Biscuits. Into a pound of flour rub half that quantity of butter, and add threequarters of a pound of flour. Mix with two well-beaten eggs a wine-glassful of brandy, and moisten the whole. "WTien the paste is thinly MIL ( 419 ) MIL rolled, cut it into any fanciful shapes with tin cutters. Brush the biscuits lightly over with egg, and bake in a quick oven for ton minutes. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for two pounds and a half of biscuit. Milanese Cream. Dissolve an ounce of isingla.ss in a quarter of a pint of water, and beat until light the yolks of eight eggs. Sweeten a pint of fresh milk with four ounces of sifted sugar, and make it hot, when stir in the beaten yolks, and continue to stir over a slow fire until the mixture becomes thick, but on no account should it boil. Strain through a fine sieve, and add the dissolved isinglass, and a cupful of double cream. Flavour to taste with a small glass of rum, or liqueur maraschino or cura oa. Pour the cream into a mould, welloiled, and let it stand for three hours in a cool place to set. Sufficient for one mould. Milanese Ice Cream. Beat up the yolks of two eggs with a pint of cream, and haK a pound of finely-sifted sugar ; add the mixtui-e to two ounces of Naples biscuits reduced to powder in half a pint of milk. Put all into a bright stewpan, and stir until it is as thick as an ordinary custard, when it may be strained through a sieve. Add a glass of sherry wine when frozen, and then put it into a mould. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Time, twentyfive minutes to freeze. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Milanese BagOUt. This ragout is used for garnishing purposes. Tongue, ham, chicken, game, with truffles, mushrooms, and macaroni are cooked and cut off as nearly of a unif oim size as the different ingxedients will pennit, about an inch in length and a quarter of an inch broad. They are warmed up in white sauce with a mixture of grated Parmesan, and seasoned slightly with nutmeg and pepper. Milanese Sauce. Dissolve a lump of butter in a stewpan, and brown in it some button-mushi'ooms chopped finely, a couple of anchovies washed and boned, and three or foiushallots, which, with the anchovies, should be cut small. Shake all well round the pan, and stir in a table-spoonful of browned flom-, then moisten with half a pint or more of good stock, and add a wine-glassful of Marsala and capervinegar mixed, some capers, a small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, and the half of a teaspoonful of made mustard. Simmer the sauce until the shallots, &c., are tender. Use as required for salmon cutlets, &c. Time, twenty minutes to simmer. Milcotl. This is a South American preparation, forming a palatable and even elegant dish not unlike the Italian pastes. Potatoes and a species of pumpkin are roasted, the pulp taken out, and kneaded with salt and eggs. The paste is then rolled out, and cut into pieces about as largo as a dollar. These are boiled in milk sweetened for a quarter of an hour. Miles Standish's Pudding. Beat well six eggs, yoLks and whites separately. Mix with the yolks a pound and a half of curd made fi-om new milk, and prepared with rennet. Beat the curd and eggs until smooth, then add a quarter of a poimd of finely-sifted sugar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, an ounce and a half of citron sliced, and ten ounces of raisins, weighed after stoning (these last should be soaked for some hours in brandy). Stir in the whisked whites of the eggs, and bake in a mould well buttered, and sprinkled thickly with sifted bread-raspings. When done tui-n out, and serve hot with custard flavoured with brandy or rum. Time, an hour and thieequarters to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for a small mould. Military Puddin.gs. Mix well together half a poimd of bread-crmnbs, half a poimd of moist sugar, and half a pound of finely-chopped suet. Mince the lind of a good-sized lemon, squeeze the juice, and stir it into the mixture. Place the puddings in small buttered cups or moulds, and bake for half an hour in a tolerably quick oven. If preferred, military puddings may be boiled, if so, they must be made into small balls. In either case serve with lemon or wine sauce. Probable cost with sauce. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons, or to fill six or seven cups. Milk, Adulteration and Richness of, Tested. For testing the richness of milk a very simple instrument has been invented, known as the lactometer, or galactometer. It consists of a glass tube graduated to a hundred parts. New milk is poured in as far as the top of the graduated part and allowed to stand. When the cream has completely separated, the value of its quality is shown by the number of parts in the hundred which it fills. Another form of instrument has been invented by Doeflel. In it we have a small hydrometer, with a scale two inches in length marked ofl: into twenty degrees; the zero being placed at the point whore the instriuncnt sinks in water, and the twentieth degree coitosponding with the density 1-0383. Doeffel's instrument is much in use on the Continent. Fourteen degrees is held to show milk unadulterated with water. Milk, Almond (see Almond Milk, and also Orgeat, or Almond Milk). A refreshingdrink. Milk-and-Butter Cakes. Take threequixrters of a pound of flour, half a poxmd of butter, half a pound of sugar, one tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and as much milk as will form a dough. Cut up the butter in the flour ; add the sugar and spices by degrees. Stir in as much milk as will make a dough. Knead it well, roll it out in sheets, cut in cakes, butter your tins, lay the cakes on so as not to touch, and bake in a moderate oven. Milk and Cream, To Preserve. Add one ounce of sugar to one pint of milk, and boU it down to one-half. Run it into small bottles, and place them in a pan of cold water placed on a good fire. Allow the water to boU for an horn-, and then, while still hot, close the mouths of the bottles with very good and tight-fitting corks, and let the contents become cjdM. "VVTien cold, dip the corks and necks of the bottles in a ladle containing melted sealing-wax or common pitch, so as to render MIL (420) MIL the corks perfectly air-tight. Cream is preserved by evaporating it down to a quarter of its previous bulk, without adding sugar, and then preserving it in bottles as directed for milk. The bottles containing it should, however, only be boiled for three-quarters of an hour. Milk and Eggs {sec Eggs and Milk). Milk, Asses', Artificial {see Asses' Milk, Artificial). Milk, Beer Soup with {see Beer Soup with Milk). Milk Biscuits. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, one quart of milk, one gill of yeast, salt according to taste, and as much flour as will form the dough. Stir flour into the milk so as to form a very thick batter, and add the yeast ; this is called a sponge. This should be done in the eveniHg. In the moiTiing cut up the butter, and set it near the fire where it will dissolve, but not get hot ; pour the melted butter into the sponge, then stii- in enough flour to form a dough; knead it well, and set it on one side to rise. As soon as it is perfectly light, butter your tins, make out the dough in small cakes, and let them rise. "When they are hght, bake them in a veri quick oven, take them out, wash the tops over with water, and send them to table hot. Milk Breakfast Cakes. A batter of flour, milk, and yeast should be made over night for these cakes. Half a pint of yeast and a quart of milk made warm will moisten half a dozen pounds of flour. When risen next morning (the batter should be covered and set by the firepkice dui-ing the night), beat into it four or five ounces of butter melted, knead and make into small cakes, using as much flom- as will be necessary to prevent the dough sticking to the fingers. Put the cakes as they are made on a baking-tin before the fire, while the oven is getting the requii-ed heat, then bake ; they will take about twenty minutes in a hot oven. Send them to table quickly, well buttered and hot. Probable cost, 2s. Milk Coffee, or Cafe au Lait. Cafe au lait the favourite beverage at the breakfast-tables of our continental neighboui-s is the most simple of preparations, and yet is so badly made in most English households that it has become a national reproach. A very little care will enable the mistress of a family to have as good coffee on her table as can be procured in Paris. To have coffee in perfection it should be roasted and ground just before it is used ; the former is not always practicable, but the gi-inding can easily be performed daily by the aid of a small handmill, which is an indispensable article in every kitchen. Do not use clieap coffee. Mocha is the best. No coffee-pot answers better than the common French " alembique," which is merely a tin coifee-pot with three strainers. Place the ground coffee under the top strainer, and above the two others ; now replace the top one, and pour quite boiling water in the proportion of tlxree cupfuls of water to one cupful of the powder. "When it bubbles up through the strainer, close the lid, and as soon as the whole of the water has passed through, the coffee is made. Boil the milk, and pour into the cups in the proportion of half coftee and half milk. Sweeten with crushed sugar-candy or loaf sugar, as moist sugar destroys the delicate aroma of the coftee. Suflicient, an ounce of coftee to three-quarters of a pint of water. Milk, Composition of. As a form of food which we can regard as a type of all others, there is none so perfect as milk. " It really represents," says Dr. Lancaster, " all the food of which we partake which is not medicinal." That milk is a tj'pe of all food is found in the fact that the young of aU the higher mammalia are fed on this food for several months, many of them for above a year, and get no other article of diet. During this period they grow very rapidlj'-, and increase in size; consequently, they must have obtained all that which constitutes their muscle, their nerve, their bone, and every other tissue, from the milk they take as food. So that milk must contain the essentials of aU food. As tc the exact composition of milk, one pound of cow's milk contains : OZ. gTS. 1. Water . . 13 333 2. Caseine . . 350 3. Butter . . 245 4. Sugar . . 315 5. Mineral Matter . 70 same weight of asses' milk contains : OZ. grs. 1. Water . . 14 76 2. Caseine . . 140 3. Butter . . 105 4. Sugar . . 420 5. Mineral Matter . 35 Milk, Condensed. Condensed milk is a most useful preparation for cooking purposes, or for milk puddings of any kind. It is also good in tea or eoft'ee. The chief advantage that it has over fresh milk is, that it does not so readily turn sour, and that it contains so much sugar that little more, if any, need be used with it. It is valuable in the nursery, as it is well known to correspond with the mother's milk better than fresh cow's milk, so that when an infant needs partial feeding, it is not at aU: upset by the process. To stewed fruits it is a very pleasant accompaniment, and is an economical substitute for cream and sugar. Probable cost, 7d. to 8d. per tin. Milk Curry {see Jersey Milk Cuny). Milk Farferl. Put over the fire in a clean saucepan three pints of sweet milk, and let it heat gradually imtil it boils, then stir in the farferl (for which we give the recipe below) , and let the milk boil for a few minutes longer. Beat an egg with a quarter of a pint of water and a little salt, with which moisten half a pound of flour, using a two-pronged fork, and lieating it rapidly into a flaked paste or batter. This dish is eaten either with salt or sugar. Milk Flavour, Cocoa-nut {see Cocoanut Milk Flavour). Milk, Flavoured, for Sweet Dishes. Bore a hole in one end of a fresh cocoa-nut, MIL ( 4'21 ) MIL pour off the milk, and break the shell with a hammer. Clear the nut from the outer brown rind, and grate the white part very finely. Put it into an enamelled saucepan, with a quart of new milk to every three ounces, yimmer very gently, that the milk may not be reduced in quantity. Strain, and press the nut as di-y as possible. Add the milk from the nut, if quite good, to this, and use it for blancmange, custards, or sweets of any kind. Time, thi-ee- quarters of an hour to an hour. Probable cost of nuts, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, three ounces of cocoa-nut to a quart of milk. Milk, Keeping in Summer of Cream or. Milk that has been scalded, and from which the excellent Devonshire cream is produced, will keep sweet longer than a pan of raw milk ; hence, to scald milk is the best way to preserve it sweet. The cream, when skimmed, with the addition of enough powdered white sugar to make it tolerably sweet, may be kept two days ; but ia large dairy farms, where the cream is plentifid, each day's produce should be turned into butter. A cool dairy, plenty of cold water, but above all an early-riser, one who will be up before the sun has risen, will succeed in the hottest weather. Milk Lemonade. Steep the thin yellow rind of two lemons in their own juice for twelve hours. Strain the juice through a muslin to keep back any of the pulp and seeds. Sweeten with syrup in the proportion of two pounds of good loaf sugar or powdered sugar of the same quantity may be used and add a bottle of sherry or made white wine and from two to three quarts of good new nulk, heated to the boiling point. It should be strained through the usual jelly-bag until clear. Mien cold this lemonade will be found refreshing and in-vigorating during hot weather. Probable cost, 2s. Id., exclusive of wine. Milk, Lemonade (another way). See Lemonade Milk. Milk Porridge. Put into an enamelled saucepan half a pint of whole groats, on which pour a pint and a half of cold water. Boil well for two or three hours, adding more water if too thick, and strain through a colander or sieve. This porridge may be kept two or three days, and when wanted boiling milk should be added. Probable cost, without milk, 3d. Milk Porridge (another way) . The following is a quicker and easier way of preparing porridge for children's breakfasts, suppers, ?S:c. Boil for twenty minutes two table-spoonfuls of Scotch oatmeal in half a pint of milk, sweeten with sugar, or, if preferred, add pepper, salt, or a little butter. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a meal. Milk Punch. This agreeable summer drink is made in the following manner : Put into a bottle of rum or brandy the thinly-pared rinds of three Se alle oranges and three lemons. Cork tightlyfortwodays. Eub off on two pounds of lump sugar the rinds of six lemons, squeeze the juice from the whole of the fruit over the two pounds of sugar, add three quarts of boiling water, one of boiling milk, half a tea-spoonful of nutmeg, and mix all thoroughly well together imtil the sugar is dissolved. Pour in the rum, stir, and strain until clear; bottle closely. It is important in making punch that all the ingredients be perfectly blended together, consequently too much attention cannot be paid to the mixing. Probable cost 6s. Milk Punch (another way) . See Punch, Milk. Milk Punch, Cambridge {see Cambridge Milk Punch). Milk Rice. A wholesome dish, suitable for children. When milk is scarce, the rice is first boiled tender in water, di-ained from it, and simmered until quite done in milk, but it is best boiled wholly in milk. A quarter of a pound of rice will thicken a quart of milk. Simmer gentljwith cinnamon or lemon-peel, and add, if liked, a small quantity of verj- finely-shred suet. The sugar should not be put in while simmering, but when about to be served sweeten to taste. Slilk rice is very liable to bum, therefore stir often. Time, about an hour to simmer. Probable cost, rice, 3d. per pound. Milk Rolls. To eight ounces of dry flour mix a little salt, and two oimces or less of butter ; add half an ounce of German yeast, and an og beaten with a small cup of milk, which should be warm, but not hot. When mixed to a firm dough, cover it up well in the same pan to rise, in a warm place, and when risen make into roUs and bake quickly. The roUs may be brushed over with egg before they are put on the baking-tin. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six roUs. Milk Sago. Boil slowly for half an hour a tea-cupful of sago in a quart of new milk, or, if preferred of less consistency, take rather more milk. This makes a most nutritious and agreeable dish for invalids and children, and may be sweetened and flavoured according to taste. It is well to cleanse the sago in cold water before using. Probable cost, about 6d. a quart. Milk Saloop. Mix the powder with cold milk, rub it quite smooth, and boil in more mdk. Keep stirring, flavour with lemon-peel and sugar. Take it off the fire, beat in two eggs one after the other, stirring all the time. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake until set. Milk saloop may be made without flavouring, if preferred, or it may be simply boiled, mixed with ground rice in a much smaller quantity. Probable cost, 6d. Milk Sauce or Cream Sauce. Beat and mix well together the yolks of two eggs, a tea-spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar, and sufficient vanilla, ratafia, lemon-peel, or any other flavouring that may be preferred, to flavour the whole. Pour this into half a pint of cream or milk, set it over the fire, and make it very hot, without letting it boil, or the sauce wiU curdle. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Time to make, ten minutes. Probable cost, with cream, Is. 4d. MIL ( 422) MIL Milk Scones. Mix in a bowl with a pint of cream as much flour as will make a firm paste, add a little salt, work weU, roll out thin, and bake on the gu-dle over a clear fire. iSend the scones to table hot and buttered. Time, twenty to thirty minutes. Milk Soup. Boil as much millv as will be required to make the soup with half the rind of a lemon and a piece of cinnamon. Sweeten it, and put in a little salt. Have ready in a tureen, made hot, and placed before the fire, some neat pieces of thin toasted bread, pour a little of the boihng milk over thom, and cover closely. Eemove the rest of the milk from the fire, and stir in the yolks of five eggs that have been well beaten, then stir for a few minutes over a slow fire until the soup is getting thick, but on no account should it be allowed to boil. When ready, add it to the tureen, and seii e at once. Vermicelli or any Italian paste will thicken and improve this soup. The J'Vench stir in pounded cocoa-nut or almonds just before serving. All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another of boiling water. Time, an hour to prepare. Sufficient, two quarts of milk for eight persons. Milk Soup (a German recipe). Set one quart of milk over the fire in a clean saucepan. Beat well the yolks of two eggs with a tea-spoonful of flour, sufiicient sugar to sweeten, and a pinch of salt. Just before the milk boUs, stir these in. If, after the eggs are put in, the soup is allowed to boil, it will curdle. All milk soups are made in the above manner, and varied by adding any preferred flavour, such as vanilla, lemon, laurel-leaves, almonds (pounded), cinnamon, chocolate, &c. A savoury soup may also be made with onions, previously stewod in butter. They should bo put into the boilingmilk with pepper and salt for ten minutes before serving. Nudels, or home-made macaroni, thrown into mUk and boiled for a quarter of an hour, makes another variety. This may be merely sweetened. Whites of eggs, whisked to a stiff froth, and dropped on the top of the soup when in the tui-een, have a very pretty effect, as have also yolks of eggs, boiled hard. Probable cost, 7d. per quart. Sufficient, allow a quart to every three persons. Milk Spatzen. There are many different sorts of German '? spatzen," or batter-flakes, but they are all cooked in the same manner, which is, when the batter is made, whether it be of milk, water, or eggs, to scrape a few drops of it quickly from a plate into a saucepan of boihng liquid with a wetted knife, so as to form separate little flakes of batter. The batter for milk " spatzen " is made of milk and flour, and should be stiif . Boil the flakes in mUk for five minutes. Drain them, add two eggs, weU-beaten, a little butter, and salt if served with roast meat, or sugar if served with jam. Time to boil, until the flakes float on the top. Probable cost, 8d. for a half-piat of batter. MUk Suet. Put a pint of new milk into a stewpan over a slow fire, and add an oimoc of mutton-suet cut like shavings, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, a small stick of cinnamon, and as much good white sugar as will sweeten. When the suet has dissolved, and the flavour of lemon and cinnamon is gained, it is ready. Strain and use hot. This milk is considered very nouiishing and efficacious in cases of hoarseness or loss of voice. Time, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 4d. Milk Sugared, or Lait Sucre. A cold drink for evening entertainments, much used for cliildren in France, and made by simply boihng milk with lemon-rind and sugar. When the flavour of lemon is gained, it is allowed to cool, and is ready for nse. Milk Toast. Slice some bread, toast it of a nice light brown on both sides. Boil a pint of milk; mix together two tea-spoonfuls of floui- in a little cold water; stir this into the boihng milk. Let it boU about one minute; then add a little salt, and stir into it two ounces of butter. Dip the toast ia the milk, place it on a dish, and pour the remainder of the milk over it. The toast may be made much richer by increasing the quantity of butter. Milk, To Preserve.- Pour the milk into a bottle, and place the vessel up to its neck in a saucepanful of water, which is then to be put on the fire, and allowed to boil for a quarter of an hour. The bottle is now to be removed from the water, and carefully closed -with a good and tight-fitting cork, so as to render it as air-tight as possible. MUk which has been preserved by this process has been kept for more than a year vrfthout turning sour. Milk may also be preserved by putting a table-spoonful of horseradish scraped in shreds into a panful of milk. When milk thus treated is kept in a cool place, it will be found to keep good for several days, even in hot weather. Mill, Chocolate {see Chocolate MiU). MUle Fruit lee-cream. Rasp two lemons, take the juice of them, a glass of wine, one of grape-sjTup, a pint of thick cream, and eight ounces of powdered sugar. Mix and freeze, and when sufficiently congealed, add four ounces of preserved fruits, which cut small, and mix well -with the ice. Let the cream remain in the ice until wanted. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of wiue, &c. Sufficient for a quart mould. Mille Fruit Water-ice. To half a pint of water and a pint of clarified sugar, add half a pint of sheny and grape-sywip, mixed there should bo two-thkds of the latter the strained juice of five lemons and of a large orange, and the grated rinds of two lemons. Mix, and set the mixture to freeze. When sufficiently congealed, put some preserved fniit about four ounces to this quantity will be enough amongst the ice, and finish the freezing. Large fruit should be cut small. Millet Pudding. Like sago and other small seeds, millet should be washed before boiling. Simmer over a slow fire, stirring carefully, four ounces of millet, in nearly a quart of milk. Flavour with the thin rind of lemon, cinnamon, or nutmeg. When cooled, sweeten and stir ia four beaten eggs. Fill a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake; or the MIL ( 123 ) MIN pudding may bo boiled, in which case more millet for the same quantity of milk must be used. Boil in a basin, well buttered. Time, about an hour to bake; to boil, an hour and a half; fifteen minutes to simmer. Suaicicnt for five or six persons. Milton Pudding. Simmer in a small saucepan a quarter of a pint of new milk, with the thin rind of a lemon and thi-ee blades of mace; boil until the flavour is gained, then strain the milk to a pint of double cream, and boil together for a minute. Sweeten while hot with an ounce of finely-sifted sugar. Let it cool, and add the beaten yolks of seven eggs and a glass of brandy. Boil in a mould, and serve cold, with sweetmeat or preserved fruit round the dish. Time, an hour to boil. Minced CoUops. Shred a shallot and part of an onion as small as may bo, and brown them both in a stewpan, with a good lump of butter; let them not acquire much colour. Have ready minced a pound of the fillet or a rump-steak. Add it to the browned onion, with a small cup of stock, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a few button mushrooms, also minced, and a little parsley and thyme tied together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring it to the boil, and simmer gently for a few minutes. Serve hot, with toasted sippets round the dish. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Minced Eggs. Boil five eggs hard, and cool them in water ; remove the shells and mince them ; boil half a pint of new milk, add three-quarters of an ounce of flour and one ounce of butter mi.xed together ; chop up and add half an ounce of parsley, season with salt and pepper ; boil for five minutes, then add the eggs, and shake well together until the whole is thoroughly heated. Do not stir it, and garnish with toasted sippets and lemon. This dish is a great favourite on the tables of vegetarians. Mince, Brandy {see Brandy Mince, for Pies). Mince for Patties. Warm, in a quarter of a pint of good gravy well thickened, two table-spoonfuls of ham, four of the white part of a fowl, one o g (hard boiled), the whole to be finely minced. Add, pounded, haH a blade of mace, two cloves, and pepper and salt to taste. When hot through, fill the patty-cascs, which should have been previously baked. Mince for patties may be made of any description of cold meat, poultry, shell-fish, &c. Probable cost, 9d. The above quantities are sufficient to fill six patties. Mince, Kew (see Kew Mince or Haggis Eoyal). Mincemeat Mix well together half a pound of i-aisins stoned and chopped small ; half a pound of currants washed ; half a pound of chopped beef-suet ; ten or a dozen apples peeled, cored, and chopped; a quarter of a pound of lean be f , without skin or fat, boiled and chopped; one nutmeg grated, and a teaspoonful of allspice ; a quarter or half a pound of candied peel, according to the richness desired, chopped. Put the ingredients into an earthen jar with a close-fitting cover, and poiu- a pint of brandy over them. Stir up these ingredients from time to time. Mincemeat is best made a fortnight or three weeks before it is wanted. Mincemeat (another way). Procure a neat's-tongue; parboil it; take a pound and a half of it, and chop it very fine ; shred finely a pound and a half of good beef-suet ; stone a poujid of raisins ; pare and core five apples, and take the thin rind of one lemon ; chop up the three last-mentioned ingredients very fine, and mix them in a large pan lined ?with earthenware. Add a pound of sifted loaf-sugar, two pounds of currants well cleaned, an ounce of cloves finely beaten, the juice of three lemons, and a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, ilix all these ingredients thoroughly together, and keep them in a covered pan. Mincemeat (another way). Take one pound of tender beef, either baked or boiled, and cHoJi it very fine. Chop, also, one pound, of fresh suj , one pound of apples, one pound of raisins ( lentias, storied), one pound of currants, two ounces of candied lemon-peel, two ounces of orange-peel, a little of the rind of a fresh lemon chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and haK an ounce of sweet spice. Mix the whole well together, and it will be ready for use. Mincemeat (a la Toulouse). Mince two brains broiled, with some roast beef ; season with pepper, nutmeg, and salt ; and make them into a paste with melted anchovy butter and some yolks of eggs. Make this paste into balls of a moderate size, and roll them in breadcrumbs. They are then to be fried in butter until they bepome brown, when they may be sent to table, either by themselves or with tomato sauce. Mincemeat and Mince Pies. Take four pounds of raisins stoned, and four pounds of currants, washed clean, four pounds of apples, six pounds of suet, and half a fresh ox-tongTie boiled, haK a pound of candied orange-peel, ditto lemon, and a quarter of a poTuid of citron, all chopped; the juice of three oranges and three lemons, with the peel of two grated ; half a pound of moist sugar, two glasses of biundy, two of sherry, one nutmeg grated, a spoonful of pounded cinnamon, and half an ounce of salt. Mix all these well together, put the whole into jars, and keep them tied over with bladder. A httle of this mixture baked in tart-pans with pufi'-pasto forms mince pies. Or peel, core, and chop finely a pound of sound russet apples, wash and pick a pound and a half of currants, stone half a pound of raisins, and let both these be chopped small. Then take away the skin and gristle from a pound of roast beef, and carefully pick a pound of beef-suet ; chop these well together. Cut into small pieces three-quarters of a pound of mixed candied orange, citron, and lemon-peel ; let all these be well stirred together in a large pan. Beat or grind into powder a nutmeg, half an ounce of ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of allspice and coriander-seeds ; add half an ounce of salt, and put these into the pan, MIN (424) MIN mixing them thoroughly. Grate the rinds of three lemons, and squeeze the juice over half a pound of tine Lisbon sugar, mixed with the lemon-peel ; pour over this two gills of brandy and hali a pint of sherry. Let these ingredients be well stirred, then cover the pan with a slate ; and when about to use the mincemeat take it from the bottom of the pan. Or, to make mince pies u'itkout meat, carefully prepare, as before directed, a pound and a half of fresh beef-suet, and chop it as small as possible ; stone and chop a pound and a half of Smyrna raisins; well wash and dry on a coarse cloth two pounds of currants ; peel, core, and cut small three pounds of russet apples ; add a quarter of an ounce of mixed cinnamon and mace in powder, four cloves powdered, a pound and a half of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of salt, the juice of a lemon and its peel finely grated, and a table- spoonful of mixed candied fruit cut very small. Let all the above be well mixed together, and remain in the pan a few days. \\Tien you are about to make mince pies, throw a gill of brandy and the same of port wine into the pan, and stir together the mince. Line the required number of patty-pans with properly-made paste ; fill from the bottom of the pan ; cover, and bake quickly. Mincemeat, Apple {see Apple Mincemeat) . Mincemeat Fritters. Beat well three eggs, separating the yolks from the whites, moisten a largo table-spoonful of fiour with them, and when the batter is rubbed smooth add eight ounces of mincemeat and part of the juice of a lemon. Fry in boiling lard, and put the fritters on paper before the fire for a minute, then serve hot on a napkin. These fritters should be made small. Drop the mixture from a dessert-spoon into the frying-pan. Breadcrumbs may be used instead of flour about two ounces and a half will be the quantity for three eggs. They should be very finely prepared. Time, six to seven minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Mincemeat, Old-fashioned. Take a pound of beef, a pound of apples, two poimds of suet, two poimds of sugar, two pounds of ciuTants, one pound of candied lemon or orangepeel, a quarter of a pound of citron, and an ounce of fine spices; mix all these together, with half an ounce of salt, and the linds of six lemons shred fine. See that the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, and add brandy or wine according to taste. Mincemeat Royal. To an ounce of clarified butter add the yolks of four eggs, and beat in two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, with the grated rind and strained juice of a large lemon. Mix these ingredients with half a pound of rich mincemeat, without beef, and nearly fill the patty-pans with the mixture. Put them into a moderately quick oven to set. Ice them with the whites of the eggs, previously beaten to snow, with a quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugai-, and place them in the oven again until they are of a nice rich brown. Mincemeat, with Beef. Stone and cut two pounds of raisins (Valencias), wash and dry two pounds of currants, mince one pound of lean beef, free from skin and gristle, chop two pounds of beef suet very fine, add two 2 ounds of moist sugar. Cut into small pieces sLx ounces of mixed candied peel -orange, citron, and lemon. Pare and core a pound of apples, grate a small nutmeg and the lind of two lemons, squeeze the juice of one, add a full teaspoonful of allspice, and a pinch of salt. Mix these ingredients well together, pour over them a largo wine-glassful of brandy ; press tightly into an eai-then jar and exclude the air. Mincemeat is best made a fortnight before it is wanted. "SMien about to use it, take from the bottom of the jar. Probable cost, 6s. for this quantity. Mincemeat, without Beef. Weigh a pound of good beef suet after chopping it as finely as possible, also a pound of stoned raisins ; cut them across, but do not chop. Well wash and dry half a pound of currants, and pare, core, and chop the same weight of russet apples these are best for this purpose, as they are less watery. Add two pounds of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of mixed candied peel lemon, citron, and orange (minced) a little powdered clove, two ounces of orangemarmalade, and mix the whole well together, so that the ingredients may be well blended ; then throw over it a quarter of a pint of brandy, and the same of sherrj% but more brandy and less sherry will do. This mincemeat should be made a month before it is used. Tie it down with bladder, to exclude the air. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Mince Pies. Chop one pound of beef suet very fine ; two pounds of apples pared, cored, and minced; stoned raisins, one pound (minced) ; and one pound of currants. Add of mixed spice, in powder, half an ounce, one pound of powdered sugar, one tea-spoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon; cut small three ounces of candied orange-peel, one ounce of citron, and one ounce of lemon ; mix all well together with half a pint of brandy. Tie down close in a jar, and keep for use. A larger quantity may be made in these propoi-tions. Make the pies with rich, flaky crusts. Mince Pies (another way). Of suet, chopped very fine and sifted, two pounds; currants, two pounds; raisins, one pound; apples, two pounds ; bread, half a pound ; moist sugar, one and a quarter pound ; red and white wine (mixed), three-quarters of a pint ; a glass of brandy (these two last according to taste) ; the peel of two small lemons, and the juice of one ; four ounces of candied orange-peel cut. ]\Iix, with cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, and salt, to the taste. If preferred, omit the bread, substituting two biscuits. Mince Pies (another way). Take three pounds of plums, with the same quantity of currants, add the juice of six lemons and six oranges, with four grated nutmegs and the orange and lemon-peel after it has been boiled well to extract the bitterness. A\Tien these materials are well mixed and minced, put them aside in a jar, adding two glasses of brandy. Melt one pound of butter before the fircwithout MIN (425 ) MIR suffering it to become oily, and add this, with one more glassful of brandy, and tie securely down. It should not be kept less than six weeks before it is used for the pies. Mince Pies, Egg (see Egg Mince Pies). Minnow. This is a diminutive fish whose home is in rivers, brooks, and canals. It is best known, perhaps, as affording amusement to juvenile anglers. The flavour of the minnow is good, and when a suflicient number can be procured by a casting-net, they make an excellent fry, not unlike whitebait, but rather luscious and cloying. In Izaak Walton's time, a dish called minnow tansies was made from them, now quite out of use. The minnows were gutted, well washed in salt and water, and their heads and tails being cut off, they were put, with yolks of eggs, well beat, with cowslips and primrose-flowers, and a little tansy, shred small, and fried in butter. The sauce was butter, vinegar, or verjuice and sugar. Mint is an extensive and well-known genus of plants, with the culture and propagation of which mostly aU are familiar. Mint sauce is generally made of spear mint, which is also used for flavouring soups, &c. Mint Julep, A sprig of young green mint is put into a tumbler with brandy to about one-third, or a glassful of gin and another of sherry, a large tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, some orange-peel, without any of the white inner skin, the juice of the orange, and as much powdered ice as wLU fill the tumbler. Pour these ingredients into another tumbler, and back again, to mix well. Add a slice of pine-apple, or rub the tumbler with a piece of it, and the julep is ready. Drink through a straw. Mint Julep, Araerican. Put a sprig of green mint, a heaped tea-spoonful of sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, a glassful of gin, and a glassful of sherry, into a large glass jug. Fill it up with powdered ice, and pour quickly from one jug into another for a minute or two. Eub the edge of the tumbler with a pine-apple, if it is at hand. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the gin and sherry. It will be suflicient for one person. Mint Julep, American (another way). Put into a tumbler a dozen leaves of mint, young and fresh, with a tea- spoonful of sugar, and three table-spoonfiils of brandy or whiskey. Put some pounded ice into another tumbler, and pour from one tumbler to another, until the whole is thoroughly flavoured with the mint. A little pine-apple juice is an improvement. Drink through a reed. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. Mint Sauce. Wash and free from grit three table-spoonfuLs of young green mint, chop exceedingly fine, and put it in a sauce-tureen, with two table-spoonfuls of powdered lump sugar and a tea-cupful of vinegar. Mint sauce should be allowed to stand an hour or two before being used. Some persons prefer moist sugar for sweetening : in that case sck much would not be required. Probable cost, 3d. 28 Mint Sauce (another way). Spearmint (the true species, both for this and to boil with green peas) is a plant which becomes a weed in any but the driest and sandiest soils. In ordinary gardenground, it soon shows its encroaching disposition. It may be obtained early, by covering it with a cloche, bell-glass, or hand-light ; by putting a tuft into a frame or hot-bed ; or by growing it in-doors, in a pot, or mignonettebox. Wash the sprigs of mint, to clear them from dust or rain-splashings ; let them dry on a napkin ; strip off the leaves, and chop them fine on a chopping-board. Fill your sauceboat one-quarter full of chopped mint ; pour over the mint vinegar equal to half the contents of the sauceboat. Drop in a few lumps of sugar, and let it stand at least an hour before serving, to extract the flavour of the herb. Before sending it to table, stir up all together. Mint sauce will keep for a time, bottled, and be just as good, if not better, than it was the first day. Mint Sauce (another way). &'e Lamb, Sauce for. Mint Sauce, Green {see Green Mint Sauce). Mint, Season for Drying. There are two kinds of mint spearmint, used for culinary purposes, and peppermint, for medicinal uses or distilling. In the summer, during the months of June and July, the spearmint shovild be gathered on a dry day, dried gradually in a rather cool oven or in the shade, powdered, sifted, and bottled for winter use. Mint "Vinegar, Green (see Green Mint Vinegar). Minuten Fleisch. Cut from the tender juicy part of a leg of veal a pound and a half, in sUces exceedingly thin, and from three to four inches square. Season each shce with salt and pepper, lay them in a deep dish, and poui" over them enough wine to cover. When they have steeped and imbibed the wine, dust them with flom- on both sides, and put them into a stewpan of dissolved butter ; add enough white stock to reach to half an inch above the meat. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and simmer with the lid closed. The meat should not boil hard, or it will be spoiled. Time, three hours to steep in wine ; five minutes to simmer after it has come to the boil. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mirepoix. A flavouring for made dishes, which should be always at hand and ready for use. The following extract of meat and vegetables is to be recommended :? Brown in a stewpan, with thi-ee ounces of butter, a pound of uncooked ham, and half that weight of fat bacon, cut into small pieces. Slice two carrots, two onions, and two shallots, and add them, with a couple of bay-leaves, a bimch of parsley, or the roots sliced, and a sprig or two of thyme. When slightly coloured, pour in two quarts of good veal stock, and a bottle of Ught wine. Spice, pounded mace, and cloves may be added, but a dozen peijpercoms, bruised, are indispensable. Boil, strain, and use this flavouring when wanted. Time, two hom's to simmer. MIS (426) MOL Miser's Sauce. Mince some young onions, a little parsley, -whicli. should be first scalded, and grate a dessert-spoonful of horseradish. Mix these ingi-edients with an equal quantity of oil and vinegar. Shallot, chopped finely, may be used instead of the young onions, and melted butter kistead of oil, but the butter should be well stirred to prevent oUing. Mixed Fruit Pudding. Butter a large tin mould, one tliat will hold a quart, and line it with stale fine bread, first cut into slices of about the foui-th of an inch thick, and again with a tin-cutter, into pieces of a triangular form. This form will fit best into the bottom of the mould, but long narrow strips of half an inch broad will bo best for the sides. Have ready a syrup made by boiling a pint of currant-juice with a pound and a half of loaf sugar, and, the mould being now prepared, simmer a pint of not over-ripe raspberries with half the quantity of currants, in the syrup for a few minutes, when fill the mould while the fruit is in a boiling but whole state, and set the pudding to cool over ice ; or it may be made the day before it is wanted. Time, twenty-five minutes to boil syrup ; ten minutes to simmer fruit. Mixed Jam. Boil together any quantity or kind of fruit currants, gooseberries, cherries, or plums with or without the stones, for half an hour ; then add to every pound half a pound of moist sugar, and boil another half hour. It is an excellent jam for the nursery. We would recommend that all fruit should be stoned. Mixed jam will keep six months. Mock Turtle Soup. This is the staple soup of English life, to be met with in most of the dining-rooms and hotels, not only in London, but almost everywhere in Great Britain. As its name implies, it is an imitation of turtle soup, introduced to us by our navigators about one hundred years since. The esswitial point iu mock turtle, must, therefore, be the "lumpy delight" furnished by calf's head ; and the choice of the head should be a matter of some importance. It should be large, firm, and fat, full of brain, with good tongue and cheeks. As the preparation of this soup is a labour of love, and will occupy time, our recipe %vill rim in the order of arrangement. First, clean and blanch a calf's head, -with the skin on. Take out the brains, and put the head into eight or nine quarts of spring water. Bring it gently to a boU, skim frequently, and keep it simmering a couple of hours, by which time it should be sufficiently done to remove the bones easily. Second, retui-n the bones to the pot, and add three pounds of fillet of veal, throe pounds of leg of beef, cut into an inch and a half square pieces, thi-ee pounds of delicate pickled pork, also cut into small pieces, three or four slices of good soimd old ham for flavouring, four large onions, sliced, three heads of celery, a large bunch of savoui-y herbs, pai'sley, a few leaves of green basil, lemon thyme, marjoram, two bay-leaves, and stew gently, with good careful skimming, three full hours, adding stock to keep up the required quantity of soup. Third, while the stock is boiling, cut from the head the skin and fat that adheres to it into nice sizable pieces, and cut the tongue into cubes of an inch square, the fleshy parts of the head into diamonds, dice, or any other shape. Make brain balls, or any other forcemeat, or egg balls. Fourth, when the stock has been sufficiently boiled, strain it from the bones, &c. (retaining only rich bits of meat), into a large clean stewpan ; add the skin, tongue, &c., and a seasoning of cayenne and mace, Harvey's sauce, mushi-oom ketchup, or any other seasoning that may be desirable. Thicken with four ounces of butter, kneaded in as much brown flour, and simmer gently for an horn-, if the calf's head, &c., require it; but twenty minutes before serving, add half a pint of sherry and the brain or other balls, button mushi'ooms (two or three oimces). Fifth, the best mode is to place the pieces of head, &c., at the bottom of the tm-een, and strain the soup through a tammy-cloth; but if due care has been taken in the second stage of the preparation, and the skinuning has been constant and careful, this need not be resorted to. Sixth, serve with lemon on a plate, as some persons like the soup a little acid. (For half a calf's head take haH the ingTedients. This recipe is for fom- quarts. Mock Tujtle Soup of Calf's Head (another wa,j). See CaK's Head, Mock Turtle Soup. Mock Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Balls for (stf-tf Forcemeat Balls, &c.). Modena Cake. The lightness of this cake depends greatly on the mixing and beating together of the ingredients. Warm six ounces of butter before the fire until it is as soft as cream. Beat into it half a pound of flour, and the same of finely-sifted sugar. Have ready whisked half a dozen eggs (they should be whisked from ten to fifteen minutes). Work the flour and sugar gradually and smoothly with the eggs. Add grated lemon-peel and thinly-sliced candied orange-peel to flavour; and lastly, mix during the whole time as much carbonate of soda as will cover a shilling. Put the cake quickly into the oven, which should be moderately heated. The tin should be lined with a buttered paper. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to beat eggs ; to bake, an hour. Mogul Sauce. Mhice ten or a dozen shallots, pour vinegar on them, and let them soak six hours. Strain the vinegar-, about a pint; add the same quantity of mushroom ketchup, rather less than half the quantity of soy, a small tea-spoonful of cayenne, a dozen allspice, some anchovy -juice, and half a teaspoonful of mustard-seed. Boil gently, strain, bottle, and cork the bottles tightly. Molasses. This is the saccharine principle in the dregs or refuse drainings fi-om the casks, &c., of sugar, and the uncrystallisable part of the juice of the cane separated from the sugar dining the process of granulation. It consists of sugar prevented from crystallising by acids, and saline and other matters. On account of its cheapness, molasses is much employed as an article of domestic economy. It is considered very wholesome, and children are generally very fond of it. A French writer MOL ( 427 ) MOO has shown that it may be deprived of its peculiar taste by boiling it with pulverised charcoal for half an hour ; the saccharine liquor is then strained from the charcoal, when its flavour is found equal to that of sugar. Molly Clark's Pudding. Make a cuBtard of a pint and a half of new milk, which has been previously flavoured with vanilla, half a pint of cream, the yolks only of eight eggs, and three ounces of white sugar. Stir until cold, when pour into a weU-buttered basin or mould, cover with a buttered paper, and simmer gently for an hoiu% When done let the pudding stand a few minutes before turning out. Serve with a hot fruit syrup or jelly poured round it, not over, or stewed French plums, or a compote of any kind that taste or fancy may dii-ect. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Monastery Wine Soup. Pick and wash four ounces of good rice, put it into a saucepan with a pint and a half of cold water, and the yellow rind of a lemon. Let it soften gradually, and when it has become quite tender, pour over it a pint and a half of any white wine, and stir in from three to four ounces of sugar. Beat the yolks of four eggs, pour the soup slowly upon them in the tureen, and serve at once. Monitor's Tart. Make three-quarters of a pound of good pufi paste, observing the proportions of three-quarters of a 2X)und of butter to one pound of flour. Divide in two portions, roll out one half to about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut it round with a tin-cutter. "Well flour the pastry, and transfer it to the oven-leaf, which should be quite cold. Fill the tart with a compote of apples, prepared in the following manner : Stew one pound of apples, cut into quarters (pared and cored), in a clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, one ounce of butter, and a little powdered cinnamon, until they are tender but not broken. They must not be put into the crust until cold. When placing the apples be careful to leave a margin an inch in depth all round. RoU out the other half of the crust, and lay it carefully over the apples. Brush the edges with the white of an egg, and press them well together, that the juice may not escape. Brush over the outside with the white of an egg, and sift a little sugar over it, and a few finely-chopped almonds. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quaiiers of an hour. Time to stew the apples, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Monk's Patties, The {see Patties, The Monk's). A dish for Lent. Monmouth Pudding. Take the crumb of a stale white loaf, put it into a basin, and pour over it boiling milk, in the proportion of a pint of milk to four ounces of bread. Cover xmtil it is well soaked, then add two heaped table-spoonfuls of pounded white sugar, from four to five ounces of butter dissolved before the fire, the grated peel of a dry lemon with the juice of a fresh one, and three well-whisked eggs. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, the bottom of which has been spread with jam strawbciTy, raspberry,'or plum. Bake fortwenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Montagu Pudding. Mix to a smooth batter two ounces of flour, a quarter of a pint of milk, and four eggs, well beaten. Then add half a poimd of chopped (not rolled) suet, half a pound of stoned raisins or a quarter of a pound of raisins, and a quarter of a pound of sultanas and two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar. Pom- the whole into a basin, flour a cloth, put it over the top, and tie down tightly. Plunge the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for four hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, Is. Montpellier Butter (Beurre de MontpeUier). Take equal quantities (about a handful of each) of tarragon, chervil, and pimpernel, together with a small quantity of chives, and place them in boiling water to blanch. Then remove them, allow them to cool, and drain off aU the water adhering to them. Then dry them on a cloth, and compress them to remove all moisture. Now place them in a mortar, with a clove of garlic, a handful of capers, the yolks of eight eggs boiled hard, the same number of anchovies, and some gherkins. Beat them together for five minutes, and then add one pound of good butter; season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and again beat them up together until perfectly mixed, a wine-glassful of the finest olive-oil being added during the process. When well mixed, pour on it, by little and little, a quai-t of vinegar a Vestragon (vinegar flavoured with tarragon). Colour the preparation with the green colouring prepared from spinach-leaves. When the whole is thoroughly mixed, remove it from the mortar, and place it in a suitable vessel for sending to table. Montreal Pudding. Put four ounces of floTu- into one basin, and whisk three eggs for ten minutes in another. Add to the eggs a small cup of milk, a large table-spoonful of good moist sugar, and the quarter of a small nutmeg, grated. Mix the flour and eggs graduallytogether, and stir in nearly half a pound of fine bread-crumbs. This mixture should be beaten for quite twenty minutes, when half a pound of raisins, stoned and cut, may be added. Butter a basin or mould, and boil ; the mould to be well tied over the top. Time, three hours to boil. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient, for four or five persons. Montrose Cakes. Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream, with an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar. Whisk a dozen eggs for ten minutes, add them, with half a glassful, of brandy, a Httlo nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of rose-water, gradually, to the creamed butter. Beat the mixture for twenty minutes, dredging into it the whole of one pound of flour, well dried and sifted. If currants are liked, they ciin be added. TTireerquarters of a pound will be enough for these ingredients. Moor Game, Broiled. Truss the birds firmly, and divide them down the back ; flatten the breast, and bndse the leg. Season with cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Put them MOO (428) MOR into a stewpan with plenty of butter. Close the lid, and simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes. Take them out, and finish on the gridiron. Serve with a sauce as follows: Chop some shallot and a little parsley together, stew them both in a small quantity of stock ; add vinegar and pepper. Time, eight to ten minutes to broil. Moor Game Pie. Season the birds highly with cayenne, black pepper, and salt. Any other seasoning will rob them of their native flavour. They may be divided or not, according to size. Small birds are best whole. Boil down any trimmings for gravy. Put this, with some good beef gravy, into a pie-dish, and lay in the birds with bits of butter over them ; or a rump-steak, well seasoned, may be laid in the bottom of the pie-dish, with the gravy from the trimmings. Cover with a puff paste and bake, but do not overdress it. If the pie is to be eaten hot, a little melted butter, mixed with a glassful of claret, and the juice from a lemon may be poured into it through a funnel ; but for a cold pie this is not necessary. Time, threequarters to one hour to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl, 2s. Moor Game, Roasted. Cut off the head, wipe out the iaside, and truss like a fowl. Plenty of butter to baste and a quick fire are indispensable. If overdone, moor game are spoiled. Serve them on buttered toast soaked in the dripping-pan, with plain melted butter thrown over" them, or, if preferred, a gravy and bread sauce. The delicious aroma of the moor fowl is lost if other seasoning than pepper and salt be given it. Fine bread-crumbs, toasted with butter to a light brown, should accompany this dish. Time, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the brace. Sufficient, two for a dish. Moor Game Salad (a la Soyer). Put a slight layer of butter round a dish, by means of which secure a border of hard-boiled eggs. Cut into four, lengthways, taking off the hp to make them stand. Fill the dish with a seasonable fresh salad ; garnish the egg-border tastefully, with beetroot, fillets of anchovies, or gherkins. For the sauce observe the following instructions : Take two table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped shallots, two of pounded sugar, the yolks of two eggs, two table-spoonfuls of chopped tarragon and chervil, a salt-spoonful of white pepper, two of salt, twelve tablespoonfuls of salad-oil (which should be very gradually mixed), and three of chilli vinegar. When mixed keep it on ice until wanted, and when ready to serve add haK a pint of whipped cream. Pour a little of the sauce over the salad. Ari-ange the inferior parts of three roast grouse on the top, over which pour more sauce, and continue to place the joints in a pyramidal form with the sauce, until all be well used up. Mr. Soyer considered this salad " better adapted to gentlemen than ladies." Moor Gam.e Soup. Take the pot-liquor of a boiled turkey ; add any inferior parts of game, with the gizzards, crops, and Livers, and boU it until reduced to two quarts ; then strain. Skin the birds, and cut them into neat pieces ; fry them in butter, with a few thin slices of lean ham, an onion, a carrot, and part of a turnip, all shced. Drain, and put the game into the stock, with a head of celerj-- cut into inch lengths, and some parsley ; a few Jamaica peppers and cloves may be added; but much seasoning should be avoided, as it destroys the flavour of the game. Slices of venison, or the trimmings, will add much to the flavour of this soup. Moor Game, Stewed. Cut the birds into joints, if large, but only quarter small ones ; rather old birds may be utilised by this mode of cooking. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a large stewpan, lay in the joints, brown them over a slow fire, take them out, make a gravy in the pan, adding a small cup of stock and a couple of glassf uls of port wine, with a bit of garlic the size of a pea ; season with white pepper, salt, and cayenne, if approved, and simmer slowly until tender. Thirty minutes will be sufficient time for young birds. The skin should be removed from old ones before they are fried. Probable cost, uncertain. Morella Cherries {see Cherries, Morella). Morella Cherry Brandy. Select fine ripe fruit gathered on a dry day ; cut off the stalks to within an inch, and put them at once into wide-necked quart bottles. Allow to every pound of fruit four ounces of white sugarcandy or loaf sugar, and a pint of the best brandy. Some cherry or peach kernels will improve the flavour ; "tie the bottles down with bladder, and store in a dry place. Do not put all the sugar at the top or bottom of the bottle, but distribute it equally amongst the cherries. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 6d. per pound. Morels. The morel is one of the few edible fungi found in this country vrhich may be employed as food with safety. It is much more common, however, in many parts of the middle and south of Europe than here. It is nutritious, and not difiicult to digest ; the chief use to which it is put is to flavour sauces and gravies. It is used either fresh or dried, and is often brought to market in a dried state. It makes excellent ketchup. Morels, Sauce of. Take green morels (when diied they impart little or no flavoxir to a dish), wash and stew them in a tightly closed pan, with a good lump of butter ; when tender take out the morels, add some flour, let it brown in the butter, and use good gravy to make it of the proper consistency. Flavour ynth grated MOR (429) MUL lemon-rind and juice. Put in the morels, and serve hot. Morels, Stewed. Morels are seldom served at English tables, but when stewed fresh have a rich flavour, highly appreciated by connoisseurs ; stew them in a little good gravy, jx)wdered mace, pepper, salt, and a glassful of white wine for an iiour. If large cut them into four ; thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and add lemon- juice to taste ; serve hot. Moselle Cup. To a bottle of moselle in a jug pour a glassful of sherry, or pale brandy, and add four or live thin slices of pine-apple, the peel of half a lemon, cut very thin, and some lumps of ice, and sweeten to taste. A bottle of iced soda or seltzer- water must be added before lising. Mother Eve's Pudding. Take of sliced apple, weU-washed cuiTants, gi'ated bread, and finely-shred suet, each twelve ounces, mix them in a bowl, with half the rind of a lemon, minced, and moisten with four wellbeaten eggs. Boil in a buttered mould, and serve with a sweet sauce, as follows : Sweeten a quarter of a pint of melted butter, add nutmeg, a large glassful of sherry, and part of the juice of a lemon. Time, three hours to boil. Probable cost, Is. 8d., exclusive of wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mother's Apple Pudding {see Apple Pudding, Mother's). Moulds, To Use. Dip them into cold water before filling them with either jelly or cream. When about to turn out the contents, dip them quickly into hot water, and wipe dry. MnffiriH- Make a dough of rather soft consistency with warm milk, allo-wing to evorj' quart of milk an ounce and a half of German yeast, which should be first mixed with the milk ; add the beaten whites of two eg , and cover the dough closely before the fire to rise. When ready, drop the quantity of dough required for one mufiin upon a well-floured board, and form it into shape by turning it round with the hand, then slide it upon the hot plate. To make and bake muffins well is a difficult task, and as they are now to be obtained at any respectablo baker's, there are, unless for families li\ing far from town, very few home-made muffins. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient, four pounds of flour. Muffins (another way). See Breakfast Muffins. Muffins, American. Warm a pint of new milk, add to a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, a pinch of salt, the white of two eggs, frothed, and a little limip of saleratus, the size of a pea, dissolved in warm water. Put these ingredients into a bowl, and add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Put it in a warm place to rise for two or three hours, being careful to cover the bowl with a cloth. Take out, on the end of a spoon, enough dough for one muffin at a time, drop it on a floured board, and shake it until it is the proper form. Let the muffins rise again, then place carefully on a hot plate or stove, previously oiled ; when one side is slightlr browned, turn on the other. When done, di-vide the edge of the muffin all round with the thumb and finger ; toast it gently first, on one side, then on the other ; tear it open, and place two or three lumps of butter between, and cut into quarters. Pile three or four on a dish, and send hot to table. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, about Id. each. One will be sufficient for each person. Muffins and Crumpets, Pudding of {see Crumpet and Muffin Pudding). Muffins, Indian {see Indian Muffins). Muffins, Potato {see Potato Muffins). Mljffins, Pudding of. Beat sis eggs for ten minutes, lay three muffins and two crumpets into a bowl, and pour over them three breakfastcupfuls of boiling milk, flavoured with lemonpeel, and sweetened with loaf sugar. Mix when cold, and add a glassful of brandy, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped small, and the beaten eggs ; half a pound of stoned muscatels, or dried cherries, may be added, and the whole should be well stirred before being put into the buttered basin for boiling, or into a dish lined with puff paste, if the pudding is preferred baked. Time, one hour to bake or boU. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of brandy. Muffins, Toasted. To toast muffins slit them round the edge to the depth of an inch or more, but keep them attached in the centre while toasting. Pull open, and butter freely. Lay them on a very hot plate, and serve cut across. Mulberry. The fruit of the mulberry is brought to the dessert, and recommends itself by its highly aromatic flavour and abundant subacid juice. It is wholesome, cooling, and rather laxative ; Kke the strawberry, it does not undergo the acetous fermentation, and therefore may safely be partaken of by gouty and rheumatic persons, llie most forward THE MULBEKRY. mulberries attain maturity about the end of August, and there is a succession of ripening fruit on the same tree for about a month or six weeks. The ripening berries rapidly change from a reddish to a black colour, and should be gathered accordingly for immediate use. This dehcate fruit will not keep good off the tree for above a day or two. Mulberry Juice. The chief use of the fruit of the black mulberry is for the dessert ; but from its cooling and laxative properties its juice, diluted with water, is sometimes used as a beverage in fevers. It is also employed in the form of syrup for medicinal purposes, chiefly to colour other fluid medicines. The juice is also MUL (430 ) MUL made use of to give a dark tinge to liqueurs and confections. When properly prepared and fermented, the fruit yields a pleasant vinous liquor, widely known by tlie name of m.ulberry wine. In the cider countries the fruit is occasionally mixed with apples to f onn a beverage called mulberry cider. Mulberries, Preserved. Simmer the mulberries in a jar, as directed in the recipe for Mulberry Syrup, and strain the juice. Put a pint of this into a preserving-pan, with two pounds and a half of sugar in small lumps ; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Keep it boiling for about five minutes, skimming carefully, then add two pounds of the fruit, without any bruised berries. Move them gently in the syrup, and let the pan stand by the side of the fire until the preserve is hot through, then boil Tory gently for half an hour, and put them by to cool until next day. This would be best done in an earthenware or enamelled pan, as the shifting from one vessel to another is hkely to break the fruit. Boil again next day. The syrup, when cold, should be firm ; test it before the pots are filled. MxilbciTies are not often bought, as they are not produced plentifully in England. The preserve is refreshing and cooling, and the syrup, when mixed with water, is efficacious in cases of sore throat. Mulberry Syrup. Get the juice from quite ripe mulberries, put them into a jar, and set the jar in a not very hot oven, or, which is better, in a vessel of boiling water, and, as the jiiice separates from the fruit, pour it off, and when sufficiently done, strain through a sieve without pulping the mulberries. Boil the juice, allowing to each pint a pound of good loaf sugar; skim, and when cold, put into bottles, and cork tightly. Time, three-quarters of an hour to extract the juice ; twenty minutes to boil. Mulben*y Vinegar. Put six pounds of rijjo mulberries into an eai-thenware pan, and pour over them vinegar to cover. When they have soaked twenty-four houi-s, bruise them with a wooden spoon, and cover with a cloth for another twenty-four houi-s; bruise, and mix well ; add more -s-inegar, until nearly a gallon has been poured upon them. When they have stood a week (they should be stirred daily during the time), strain off the vinegar, to every pint add a pound of loaf sugar, and boil and skim for nearly an hour. To be used like rasjaberry vinegar. Mulberry Water. Put a pound of mulbenies into a basin, and cover them with lump sugar, coarsely powdered ; crush them together, then pour over them a pint of water, and filter through a fine sieve. Mulberry water is most refreshing as a diink in cases of fever. Mullagatawny Soup. This is soup of any kind flavoured with cuiTy powder. It is highly stimulating, gives tone and vigour to the digestive organs, and is frequently acceptable in veiy hot or very cold chmates. Nevertheless we do not recommend its frequent use, though it may occasionally be resorted to on festive occasions. When made in India, the curry powder is largely mixed with coriander, I cassia, cayenne pepper, black and white pepper, curmeric, garhc mixed with lemon-acid or sour apples, mangoes, tamarinds, or other acidulous fniit ; but it is now needlass to prepare and mix all these ingredients, as a large or small bottle of well-prepared curries, to suit any palate, may be purchased at any oOman's store. ' If a plain curry or mullagatawny soup is preferred, mix the powder with equal quantity of browned flour and a little cold stock or broth, which may be put in with the meat of the soup half an hour before serving. Soft meats, fowl, &c., may be wholly stewed in this cui-ry stock, though the finer sorts of curries will j not admit of this, mangoes, tamarinds, &c., I taking only a few minutes ; but the experienced j cook will readily distinguish and determine j on such additions. With a plain curry there I should be a flavouring of lemon-acid just j before serving. It is almost impossible to I define precisely what should be the several i ingredients of the more complex curries the j cook must study the likings of the guests some I do not like coriander-seed, others dislike garlic ; cassia in some cases is disagreeable ; though, when all those ingredients are carefully proportioned with just sufficient cayenne to stimulate, it should be found a most enjoyable soup. The housekeeper will readily understand that any good stock soup may be converted into mullagatawny or curry soup, but as it usually occupies considerable space in every cookerybook, we add a few examples, pointing from the simple soup above mentioned to more expensive dishes. Mullagatawny Soup (another way). See Indian Mullagatawny Soup. Mullagatawny Soup, CalTs Head. Prepare a calf's head as for mock-tm-tlc, put it into a stewpan with a cow-heel, cover with four quarts of water, and boil until tender. When cold cut off the meat from the bones, and brown them lightly in a little butter, with four shred onions. Put the meat back into the stock, and add curry, flavoured to taste. This time it will bear more c-ayenne, Harvey's sauce, or any other sauce that may be esteemed. Rice in a separate dish should always accompany mullagatawny soup. Mullagatawny Soup, Fowl. Boil a fowl in good veal stock, or with a knuckle of veal and half a pound of minced ham. When the fowl is nearly done take it and the knuckle out, strain the stock, cut up the fowl into convenient-sized pieces, and replace vdth the stock. Then add a table-spoonful of cuny, flavoured to taste, a cupful of curds, a little salt, and an ounce of butter for each quart of soup. Mullagatawny, Household. Boilfour pounds of veal or beef in two quarts of water, imtil the broth is strong. Skim frequently. Cut two onions and two cloves of garlic into shoes, fry them in a little butter to a nice brown, put them with the meat and stock into a stewjian, and add two table-spoonfuls of plain curry powder mixed with a little brown floui-, and stew twenty minutes. Serve with a dash of lemon. Time to simmer meat, four hours. MUL (431 ) MITM Mullagatawny Soup, Rabbit. Cut up two young rabbits into small pieces, fi-y them in butter until they are nearly dressed enough, with four onions sliced finely. Place these in a stewpan, poiu- in a quart of stock, and simmer for an horn-. Then take out the rabbit, and strain off the onions ; replace the rabbit in the stewpan with two more quarts of stock, as good as you wish to make it, and when it boils stii- in two table-spoonfuls of curry powder, flavoured as you may prefer; add mango pickles, &c., just before serving. Fowl may be served in the same way. Mullagatawny Vegetable, Take five or six young vegetable-marrows, and the same of middle-sized cucumbers, pare, cut them length- N se into slips, empty their seeds, and divide them again into dice. Pare and core four soiu- apples or tomatoes, and slice a couple of Spanish onions. These last fry, slightly browning them, in a large stewpan, with a quarter of a poimd of good fresh butter. Thi-ow in the other vegetables before the butter has acquired much colour, and stir them gently round. 8hakc the pan frequently, and stew gently over a slow fire until half done, when add from two to three large table-spoonfuls of good curry powder, and stew the vegetables until they will pulp, pouring in boihng veal stock enough to cover. Strain through a coarse hair-sieve, pressing the pulp with a wooden spoon. Add more stock, or even water, if stock be not at hand, according to the quantity of soup required, and any additional seasoning salt, cayenne, or lemon- juice. Thicken if necessa,ry with a verj' little gi-oimd rice or arrowroot, and serve with rice, if liked ; but it should be, if properly made, quite thick enough -srithout any addition. Time, two hours to prepare. Sufficient, two quarts for eight persons. Mulled Wine. To a bottle of wine add five ounces of loaf sugar, three cloves, and the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated. Place the wine in a bright tin pot with a lid. Keep it over a gentle heat till it is nearly boiling : then send to table in a hot silver jug with a lid. Mulled Wine (a French recipe). Take a wine-glassful and a haK of water, quarter of an oimcc of sj ice, cinnamon, slightly bruised ginger, and cloves, mixed, and three ounces of sugar. Mix these ingredients, and boil till they form a thick syrup, taking care that they do not burn. Pour in a pint of port wine ; stir gently till just on the point of boiling ; then serve immediately. If a strip or two of orangerind cut very thin is added to wine thus prepared, it gives the flavom- of bishop. In making this beverage in France, light claret is substituted for port wine : the better sorts of vin ordinaire are excellent thus prepared. Mullet, Grey (??? Grey MuUet). Mullet, Grey, Boiled. Put large mullet into cold water, salted in the projX)rtion of two ounces of salt to every two quarts of water. Bring the water quickly to the boil, then simmer until done. Small mullet, like other small fish, should be put into almost boiling water. Serve with anchovy or caper sauce, and plain melted butter. Time to boil, a quarter to half an horn*. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Mullet, Grey, Broiled. Scale, clean, and take out the g-iJIs and inside. A fish of about two poimds will be best for this mode of cooking. Score the mullet on both sides, lay it on a dish, sprinkle with salt, and pour three table-spoonfuls of oil over it. Turn on the dish, di'ain, and when to be broiled, fold in oiled paper or not ; the fiie should be moderate and even. The scores should not he more than a quarter of an inch deep. When sent to table put from six to eight ounces of maitre d' hotel butter on it. Time to broil, half an hour. Mullet, Red. These fish may be roast, baked, or broiled, and are excellent either way. Scrape and wash, then wipe them quickly. The gills and fins only are removed, but the inside is dressed with the fish, the liver being a muchesteemed morsel. Fold each miillet in oiled or buttered paper, and bake about twenty-five minutes. Serve without the paper, and with sauce in a tureen. Make the sauce thus : Into a little good melted butter pour the liquor which has oozed from the fish, add a glassful of wine, white or red, a little essence of anchovies, cayenne, and lemon-juice. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, from Is to 2s. each. Mullet, Red (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Clean four red mullet, and wipe them quickly. Score them to the depth fef a quarter of an inch, and lay them to fe'teep in a small wineglassful of salad-oil. Add a salt- spoonful of salt, and one of pepper,, an onion, sliced, and a bunch of parsley in sprigs. When the fish have become well saturated, drain and put them on the gridiron. Let the fire be bright and ev(?a. In ten minutes the mullet will be done. Brown alike on both sides. Serve hot on a dish, with maitre d' hotel butter tmder them ; about seven or eight oimces will be enough. Time, half an hour to steep in oil. Probable cost, Is. to 2s. each. Mullet, Stewed. Make a sauce as follows : Put together in a stewpan three glassf uls of hock and sherry wine mixed, the former to he two-thii-ds of the quantity given. Slice thinly a small carrot and tiunip, also half a small lemon ; add a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and a bunch of thyme and parsley. Lay in the fish, and stew gently over a slow fire. Strain the gravy, thicken with butter rolled in flour, season with salt and pepper, and serve the fish on a hot dish, vnth. the sauce poured over. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to stew. Probable cost, Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient, three fish for this sauce. Mum. Take eighty gallons of water, brew it vnth. seven bushels of wheaten malt, one bushel of oat-malt, and one bushel of ground beans. When it has worked or fermented awhile in a hogshead not too full, put into it of inner rind of fir three pounds ; one pound of 'tops of fir and birch ; three handfuls of carduns henedictus; a handful or two of flowers from solis; bumet, betony, marjoram, penny-royal, wild MTJS ( 432 ) MUS thyme, of each a handful; two handfuls of elder-flowers ; thii'ty ounces of seeds of cardamon, bruised ; and one ounce of barberries, bruised, When the liquor has ceased working, fill it up, and at last put into the hogshead ten new-laid eggs ; stop it up close, and in two years the mum \\-ill be tit for use. Mush of Indian Corn. A recipe for this wholesome dish is given by William Cobbett, in his " Treatise on Cobbett's Corn." " You put," he says, " some water or milk into a pot, and bring it to boil; you then let the flour or meal out of one hand gently into the milk or water, keeping stirring with the other, until you have got it into a pretty stiff state ; after which you let it stand ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, or less, or even only one minute, and then take it out, and put it into a dish or bowl. This sort of half pudding, half porridge, you eat either hot or cold, -with a little salt, or without it. It is frequently eaten unaccompanied with any liquid matter ; but the general way is to have a porringer of milk, and, taking off a lump of the mush and putting it into the milk, you take up a spoonful at a time, having a little milk along with it ; and this is called mmh and milk." Mushrooms. Of the mushrooms generally eaten in England, and which may be partaken of with impunity, the chief is the common mushroom [Agariciis campestrix). " When eaten," says Dr. Lancaster, " this mushroom should be fresh gathered, as after keeping it acquires properties that render it liable to disagree. The Agaricus mmpestris may, however, bo dried quickly, and kept wholesome for any length of time, or they may be powdered and thus kept. Wlien salted fresh and jiressed they j'ield the sauce known by the name of 'ketchup,' or 'catsup.' The mushroom gives a fine flavour to soups, and greatly improves beef-tea. When arrowroot and weak broths are distasteful to persons with delicate stomachs, a little seasoning with ketchup will generally form an agreeable change." The mushroom itself may be cooked in a variety of ways. Some roast them, basting them with melted butter, and serve with white wine sauce. They may be made into patties and added to fricassees. In France they steep them in oil, adding salt, pepper, and a little garlic ; they are then tossed up in a small stewpan over a brisk fire, with chopped parsley and a little lemon- juice. The morel is occasionally found in Great Britain. In the opinion of fungus-eaters it is a great luxury. It is prepared in the same way as the common mushroom, but its flavour is more delicate. Ordinarily it is obtained from our Italian warehouses, but, if sought for about the beginning of summer, it may not unfrcquently be found in our orchards and woods. Another fungus met with in English markets is the truSle. It is more uncommon in this country than the morel, but it is imported in considerable quantities from France. Truffles gi'ow entirely underground, and truffle-hunting dogs, and even swine, are trained to discover them. They impart a fine flavour to soups and gravies, and enter into the composition of stuffing for boars' heads, fish, and other kinds of animal food. In his valuable work on the " Esculent Funguses of England," Dr. Badham remarks of the odours and tastes of mushrooms that both one and the other are far more numerous in this case of plant than in anj other with which we are acquainted. Some of them give out powerfully disagreeable odours, whilst others peld the most agreeable of perfumes. The authority just mentioned enumerates no fewer than forty-eight species of mushroom, all of which are good to eat. The great objection, however, to mushrooms, is MnSHKOOMS. that some of them are very poisonous ; and mistakes occur so often that only persons skilled in distinguishing the various species ought to be trusted for administering them indiscriminately as food. On the Continent persons are specially appointed to examine all fungi sent to market, so that only those which are safe to cat are allowed to be sold. According to Dr. Badham, the majority of fungi are harmless, but his account of the poisonous effects of the minority, and the post-mortem appearance of the organs of those who have died through partaking of them, are enough to alarm the most stout-hearted. Mushrooms (Antidote to poisonous fimgi) . " All fungi should bo used with caution, for even the champignon, and edible garden mushrooms, possess deleterious qualities, when grown in certain places. All the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before being taken into the stomach, as this greatlj' lessens the effect of poisons. TVTien accidents of this sort happen, vomiting should be immediat-ely excited, and then the vegetable acids should be given either vinegar, lemon-juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive bilious vomiting. Infusions of gall-nut, oak-bark, and Peru\-ian bark are recommended as capable of neutralising the poisonous principle of mushrooms. It is, however, the safest way not to eat any of the good but less common kinds until they have been soaked in vinegar. Spirit MUS ( 433 ) MUS of wine and vinegar extract some part of their poison, and tannin matter decomposes the greatest part of it." {Botanist's Companion). In Poland and Russia there are above thirty edible sorts of fungi in common use among the peasantry. They are gathered in all the different stages of their growth, and used in various ways raw, boiled, stewed, roasted ; and, being hung up and dried in their stoves or chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Mushrooms (a la Bordelais). Proceed in all respects as for grilled mushrooms, but serve with a sauce of oil or melted butter, in which are minced young onions, parsley, and a little garlic ; or serve with a sauce made by boiling the trimmings of the mushrooms in good brown gravy, seasoned -wath cayenne pepper and siilt, and thickened with the yolks of eggs. Time to broil, about twelve minutes ; to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Mushrooms (a la Casse-tout). This mode of cooking mushrooms is borrowed from the French, as its name implies. Their hearth fires are particularly adapted for it. Place a baking tin on the hot hearth, on which lay toast well buttered ; cover with mushrooms, carefully cleaned, keeping the cup side nppennost, and placing upon each mushroom a bit of butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. !Mediumsized flap mushrooms do best for this dish ; they should be freshly gathered. A glass is sometimes fixed closely over the mushi-ooms, but for cooking mushrooms in any quantity, an earthenware cover, with a flat top, to allow of the wood-embers being placed around and on it, is used. Serve on a hot dish. Time, ten to twelve minutes. Mushroom S (an Buerre). Trim the stems and rub two pints of button mushrooms as before directed. Put them into a stewpan with three or four ounces of good butter, slightly browned, and stir them very gently, to get the butter well about them. Shake the pan over a moderate fire, that the mushrooms may not settle at the bottom. When they have well imbibed the butter, add a little pounded mace, salt, and cayenne, and cover closely by the side of the fire, "to simmer until tender, when they will be found excellent without any other addition. Serve them hot on toast at breakfast or luncheon. If to be eaten cold, drain them from the butter, which may be used as flavouring for other dishes, and put them in a cool place, to be served next day, but they will keep for several days. When mushrooms are plentiful, they may be kept thus prepared many weeks, in pots, with a little clarified butter run over the top to exclude the air. Warm up when required. Time, about twenty to twenty-five minutes altogether. MushrOOm.S (au Gratin). Skin, wash, drain, and wipe dry some freshly-gathered flaj) mushrooms. Cut the stems to within a quarter of an inch, and fill the cup with the following seasoning : Grated ham or bacon (rather fat), two ounces, shred shallot, half an ounce, a small bunch of chopped parsley, some thyme, a little powdered mace, and pepper and salt. Simmer the seasoning for five minutes in a little butter, and add the yolks of two eggs. Stand the mushi-ooms, well dredged with browned cnmibs (raspings), into a flat baking-dish, which should be well smeared with butter, and bake in a moderate oven. When done serve piled on a hot dish, with some brown sauce around the mushi-ooms. Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, according to season. Mushrooms and Eggs {see Eggs and Mushrooms) . Mushrooms, Baked or Broiled. For either mode of cooking the flaps are best. We give the preference to baked mushrooms, because the whole of the juice is preserved. P lap mushrooms should be washed and dried, and the tops peeled. Put them, without the stems, into a tin baking-dish, season with pepi er, salt, and a very little pounded mace, if liked. Small bits of butter laid over the top will, with the juice that flows from them, be the only sauce required. Button mushrooms are best for stewing, pickling, or polling. Broiled mushrooms should be served on a hot dish, with a small piece of butter on each, and a few drops of lemon -juice squeezed over. Time, twenty minutes to bake, ten to twelve to broil. The probable cost will be Id. each. Sufficient, four medium-sized mushrooms to each person. Mushrooms, Buttered {see Buttered Mushrooms). Mushroom.S, Dry. Mushrooms prepared in this way will be found useful when fresh ones are not to be had. They are prepared precisely like powdered mushrooms {se Mushrooms, Powdered), but button mushrooms and just-opened ones do best. Do not draw theiijuice, but place them at once into a slow oven on white thick paper. They will shrink, and lose their round appearance, but if carefully done, and not burnt, they will be found excellent for hashes, &c. They need only be put into the gravy when cold, and warmed up, to swell to nearly their original size. Keep them in bro-wn-paper bags hung near the fire. Mushrooms, Edible and Poisonous, To distinguish. Dr. Christison gives the following directions for distinguishing the esculent from the poisonous varieties of fungi : " It appears that most fungi which have a warty cap, more especially fragments of membrane adhering to their upper sui-face, are poisonous. Heavy fungi, which have an unpleasant odour, especially if they emerge from a vulva, or bag, are also generally hurtful. Those which grow in woods and shady places are rarely esculent, but most are unwholesome ; and if they are moist on the surface they should be avoided. All those which grow in tufts or clusters from the trunks and stumps of trees ought likewise to be shunned. A sure test of a poisonous fungus is an astringent stryptic taste, and perhaps also a disagreeable but certainly a pungent odour. Those the substance of which become blue soon after being cut, are invariably poisonous. Agarics, of an orange or rose red colour, and boleti, which are coriaceous, or corky in texture, or which have MUS (434) MUS a membranous collar round the stem, are also ?unsafe. These rules for knowing- deleterious fungi seem to rest on fact and experience, but they wiU not enable the collector to recognise every poisonous species." The general rules laid down for distinguishing wholesome fungi are not so well founded, but the most simple and easy mode of testing the quality of field fungi, according to Mr. C. W. Johnson, is to introduce a silver spoon, or piece of coin of that metal, or an onion, into the vessel in which mushi-ooms are seething : if on taking either of them out they assume a bluish-black or dark discoloured appearance, there are certainly some dangerous fungi among them ; if, on the other hand, the metal or onion on being withdrawn from the liquor wears its natural appearance, the fungi may be regarded as wholesome and innoxioiLS. Mushrooms, Forcemeat of. Put a lump of butter into a stewpan, in which stew some button mushrooms, or some small newly-opened ones, previously peeled, and with the brown part taken out. Season with cayenne, a little powdered mace, and salt. In about six or seven minutes, when they have been well tossed in the pan, put them on a dish set sloping to drain off the butter, and when cold, have ready a quarter of a pound of fine bread-crumbs ; mix these and the mushrooms, minced, also a quarter of a pound, together; add a very little mace and nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, and more salt or cayenne, if necessary, but the flavour of the mushrooms should predominate, and too much seasoning would destroy it. Moisten with some of the butter in which they were stewed, and break up small an ounce and a half of fresh butter. Bind the mixture with the yolks of two eggs, pound all in a mortar, and make into balls, to be used for soup, or fried and served with roast fowls, or round minced veal. Boiled fowls should have some of the forcemeat put inside. Mushrooms, Forcemeat of (another way). See Forcemeat of Mushi-ooms. Mushrooms for Garnish, Take fresh-gathcrcd button mushi'ooms, cut off the stems, and wash them in a little cold water, then di-ain. Have ready squeezed the juice of half a lemon, put it with a small cup of cold water into an enamelled stewpan, into which throw each muslu'oom as it is peeled ; add an oimce of butter and a little salt. Place the stewpan over the fire, bring it quickly to a boil, and, in five minutes, use the mushrooms as requii'cd. A good cook vill know how to utilise the stems and peel of the mushrooms. In this case they may be chopped small and stewed in the gravy left after boiling the buttons. These trimmings are useful for flavoiuing dishes or soups. Mushrooms for Garnish (another way). Sec Claniish, Mushi'ooms for. Mushrooms, Grilled. Ciit the stalks, peel, and score lightly the underside of large mushroom flaps, which should be firm, and fresh gathered. Season them with pepper and salt, and steep them in a marinade of oil or melted butter. If quite sound, they may be laid on a gridii'cn, over a slow, even fire, and grilled on both sides, but they are best done in the oven if at aU bruised. Either way, serve with a sauce of melted butter, or on a hot dish, with a piece of butter on each mushroom, and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Time, about twelve minutes to grill; forty minutes to steep in marinade. Sufficient, one large mushroom for each person. Mushroom Ketchup. Mushroom ketchup is more highly esteemed and more generally useful than any other. It is best when made of the large mushroom flaps, fully ripe, fresh, and perfectly dry that is, gathered during dry weather. If this point is not attended to, the ketchup wiU not keep. Do not wash nor skin the mushrooms, but carefully remove any decayed, dii-ty, or worm-eaten portions ; cut off about half an inch from the end of the stalks, then break the rest into small pieces, put them into an earthen jar, and strew three-quarters of a pound of salt amongst two gallons of mushrooms, scatteiing the larger portion over the top. Let them remain all night, and the next day stir them gentlj' with a wooden spoon, and repeat this three times a day for two days. At the end of that time put the jar into a cool oven for half an hour, then strain the liquid which flows from them through a coarse cloth, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. Do not squeeze the mushrooms. To evciy quart of the liquid put a quarter of an ounce each of Jamaica pepper and black pepper, and a drachm of mace. Boil again until the quantity is reduced one-half. Pour it out, and let it stand until cool, then put it into perfectly dry bottles, being ca,reful to leave the sediment, which will have settled at the bottom, undisturbed. Eesin the corks, or tie bladder over them, and keep in a cool, dry place. The liquid will have a better appearance if it is strained through a tamis after being poured from the sediment. If liked, two or three drops of brandy may be put into each pint of ketchup. It is well to use small bottles, so that the liquid may not bo long kept after it has been exposed to the air. Probable cost of mushrooms, variable. Mushroom Ketchup (another way). Proceed as before directed, but let the mushrooms stand twelve hours only, warming them over the fire to extract the juice. Strain the whole through a sieve, and boil and skim the liquor, adding to each quart, when clear, equal quantities of ginger, black peppercorns, and allspice, about one and a haK ounces in all, two small blades of mace, and five or six cloves. The mushrooms may be pressed dry after the juice has been strained from them : the juice may be used for flavouring hashes, or any dish where great dehcacy is not required. Time, five minutes to boU without spice, fifteen minutes with. Mushroom Ketchup (another way). Prepare the musha-ooms and salt them as in the last recipe. Let them stand twelve hours, then work them well Avith the fingers, and leave them again for thirty-six hours, stirring them occasionally with a wooden spoon. At the end of that time measure them into an earthen jar, MUS ( 435 ) MUS and with each quart put half an ounce of allspice, three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper, and three-quarters of an ounce of Jamaica pepper. Cover the jar closely, set it in a pan of boUing water, and let it boil gently for fully two hoirrs. Take it out, let it stand until cool, then pour off the juice into a clean pan, as clear as possible, and boil the liquid for half an hour. Skim it thoroughly, and put it into a jar. V len quite cold, pour it through a jeUy-bag until it is bright and cleai\ It must be poured gently, so as not to disturb the sediment. Put a tea-spoonful of brandy with each half-pint of liquor, and pour it into small bottles. Cork these securely, and either tie a piece of bladder over them or resin the corks, and keep the ketchup in a cool, dry place. When poui'ing the juice from the mushi-oomsdo not squeeze them, or the liquid will look thick and muddy The refuse need not be waited for after a common ketchup has been made from it ; it can be dried and used for mushroom powder ysee Mushrooms, Powdered). Probable cost of mushrooms, variable. Sufficient, a table-spoonful of ketchup to half a pint of sauce. Mushroom Ketchup (another way). Gather lai-ge flap mushrooms for this purpese in the month of September. If the weather be showery, wait until the mushi'ooms have had a few hours of sunshine, for no water should enter into the composition of ketchup. Break into an earthenware pan as many mushrooms as it will hold. Let them be clean, and quite free from grit or dii-t, and that portion of the stem should be removed to which the soil adheres. Sprinkle salt among them, and put a layer over the top (from six to eight ounces will be enough for a peck of mushrooms) . Cover them for two days, occasionally stirring them during the time, then strain through a sieve without giving the mushrooms any pressure. To each quart of the juice 60 gained, allow thi-ee blades of mace, half an ounce of black peppercorns, the same of sliced ginger, with half the quantity of allspice, a few cloves, and more salt if required. Boil the juice for fifteen minutes, uncovered, and before putting in the spice ; add the spice, and boil twenty minutes more. Fill bottles when quite cold. Wax the corks to exclude the ail-. Mushroom Ketchup, Common. Minco a shallot very finely. Put it into thi-eequarters of a pint of mushroom ketchup, and simmer gently for five or six minutes; then add one table- spoonful of chiUi vinegar, and a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle. Boil for ten minutes, and when cold pour the ketchup into small bottles, cork securely, and store in a cool, diy place. Sufficient to make one pint of ketchup. Mushroom Ketchup, Common (another way). After the clear juice has been poui-ed from the mushrooms, put the remainder into a saucepan, and wai-m them on the fire. Afterwards press the mushrooms through a tamis untU every particle of juice has been extracted. Strain the liquid, boil it for five minutes, then with each pint put a cupful of strong beer, half a blade of mace, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, three cloves, and a quarter of an ounce of allspice. Simmer gently for about fifteen minutes, and when cold bottle for use, with the spicea equally divided. Suf- ficient, a table-spoonful will fully flavour half a pint of thickened sauce or gravy. Mushrooms, Oyster Patties with [sec Oyster Patties with Mushrooms). Mushrooms, Pickled, Take button mushrooms, as nearly as possible of the same size (small ones are best) and freshly gathered. Cut off the stalks, and rub away the outer skin with a piece of new flannel and some fine salt. Kiuse them in salted spring water, drain quickly, and diy in a soft cloth until no moisture hangs about them. Boil together spice and vinegar in proportion to the mushrooms to be pickled, allowing nearly a quart of vinegar to a quart of the buttons, and to a short quart of the best white wine vinegar add three smaU blades of mace, an ounce of crushed ginger, half the quantity of white peppercorns, and a small pinch of cayenne. When the pickle boils put in the mushrooms, and continue the boiling until they are rather soft, which will be in from eight to ten minutes, according to their size. Fill jars, or large-mouthed bottles, and distribute the spice as equally as possible in them. When cold, tie down securely with bladder, and remove to a dry place. Field mushrooms are much to be preferred to those artificially raised. Mushrooms Pickled in Brine, Prepare button mushrooms precisely as directed in the preceding recipe, but make a brine as follows : BoU together two quarts of water, eight ounces of salt, three small blades of mace, an ounce or more of bruised ginger, and the same o: whole white pepper. Skim while boihng, add the prepared mushroom buttons, and boil slowly for a few minutes. Fill weU-dried bottles while the mushrooms are still hot, and when quite cold cork the bottles, and tie down with skin. A smaU quantity of salad-oil poured on the top of each bottle wiU effectually preserve the contents. Mushrooms, Pickled, Sauce of. To haH a pint of brown gravy add a table-spoonful of good mushroom ketchup, some pickled mushrooms, and a little of their liquor. Pat the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it over the fixe, and stir in an ounce and a half of butter, blended with a tea-spoonful of flour. It should not boU, but when thick. Like smooth cream, serve over roast or broiled fowls. Time, about ten minutes. Mushrooms, Powdered. Get large mushrooms, but remove the brown part and the outside skin, and see that they are quite free from grit and dirt. Put them into a stewpan with a couple of onions, each stuck with six cloves, two blades of mace, some white pepper, and salt. Place them by the side of the fire to heat gradually, and draw their juice, then shake the pan over a clear fire until the moisture has dried up : this must be done briskly, or the mushrooms will get burnt and uselcSvS. Dry them in a cool oven ; they will require to be put in several times, until they can be reduced MUS (436) MUS to a fine powder. Fill quite dry bottles, and keep in a dry place, the bottles to be corked and sealed. Sufficient for a gallon. Mushroom Sauce for Chicken {see Chicken, Mushi-oom Sauce for) . Mushroom Sauce, Fowl, Boiled, -with {see Fowl, Boiled, &c.). Mushrooms, Sauce of, Brown. Button or fiap mushrooms may be used for this sauce. They should be rinsed in cold water, drained, and dried in a soft cloth, and, if flap ones, cut into piecas. Simmer the mushrooms, without stalks, in half a pint of beef gravy, add a little mushroom ketchup, and an ounce of butter, blended with flour. If liked, flavour with lemon-peel, and squeeze in some of the juice before serving. Time, twenty to twentyfive minutes. Mushrooms, Sauce of. White. To preserve the colour of this sauce see that the mushrooms are well cleansed from the soil that hangs about them, and drop them, first removing the outer skin by means of salt, into a bowl of water and lemon-juice. Drain, wipe diy, and chop them finely, without the stalks. Put them with an ounce 'of butter into a stewpan to simmer until tender, but do not let the butter get colour. Add half a pint of bechamel sauce, and simmer a few minutes longer, when the sauce should be rubbed thi-ough a fine sieve. Serve hot. \\Tien required to be warmed, place it into a vessel of boiling water. Serve poured over boiled fowls. Time, fifteen minutes altogether. Suflicient, one pint of mushrooms for half a pint of sauce. Mushroom Toast. Stew over a gentle fire a quiirt of nicely-prepared mushrooms just opened ones), first dissolving three ounces of butter in the stewpan, and seasoning the mushrooms with white pepper or cayenne, a salt-spoonful of mace, powdered; stir them carefully, and toss them in the pan to prevent burning, and until the butter is dried and slightly bro-svn, when add half a pint of thin cream, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a little salt, and stew until the mushrooms are tender. Beef-gravy may be substituted for the cream, and the grated lemon-i)eel omitted. Serve on buttered bread, fried or grilled, which should be thick enough to aUow of the inside being scooped out. Serve hot, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over. Time, fifteen minutes to stew in butter ; five minutes in gra-\y. Mussels. The?e are a species of shell-fish found in great quantities on the rocky shores of many parts of Britain, adhering to the rocks. They are also met with in immense beds, both in deep water and above the low-water mark in the British seas. The common mussel is much used as an article of food, and usually is found quite wholesome ; but sometimes it proves poisonous, especially in spring and summer. Mussels (a la Poulette). Prepare the mussels as directed for garnishing {see Mussels for Gramish). Strain the liquor, beard the m ussels, and dip them in plenty of hot water, then put them on a soft cloth to drain. Make a sauce as follows : Blend together an ounce of butter with an equal quantity of flour, and stir it over a slow tire for a minute or two, then moisten with the strained liquor, and add two dessert-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, previously scalded. Take it off the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and another piece of butter, about half an ounce. Put the mussels on a dish in their shells, detached, and pour the sauce over. Mussels and Rice, Cleanse the shells as before du-ected. Boil the mussels and remove the beards. Strain their liquor for use. Pick, wash, and soak thii-teen ounces of rice, and boQ as for cuiTy. When ready, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and add an ounce and a half of butter, vith a little of the mussel liquor and the fish, which should be all warmed together, or warm up the mussels for the centre of a dish, and place the rice round as a border. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil rice. Mussels for Garnish. Cleanse, scrape, and boil a quai-t of mussels, after draining them from the cleansing water, in a pint of French white wine or a pint of good sweet cider, with a quarter of an ounce of pepper, the same of salt, a bunch of parsley, and an onion, sliced. Put these ingredients into a deep stewpan, throw in the mussels, cover, and toss them well about until they open. Remove them at once, beard them, dip each one into hot water, and then drain on a soft cloth for use. The above ingredients will be suflicient for a larger quantity of mussels, but as they are best, that is, more equally done, in small quantities, a second dressing may be made without any additional cost. Mussels, Fried. Cleanse and boil in the usual way, but when bearded lay them out to drain on a soft cloth. Make a thick batter with two e gs, their liquor, an ounce of butter, and as mucJi flour as wiU be required ; season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-peel and minced parsley. Thicken this batter over a slow fire, pour it when quite smooth and thick into a basin, and with a fork dip each mussel into it, and when well covered place each one on a board to get cold and harden, when they should be rolled in fine bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling lard to a light brown. Sers'c, an-anged high in the centre of a dish, with parsley as a garnish, or as a garnish for fried or boiled fish. Time, five or six minutes to frj-. Mussels, Ketchup of. When carefully prepared and cooked, mussels make a variety of wholesome and agreeable dishes. The shells must be first cleansed by repeated washing and scraping, and afterwards be well rinsed in a colander until the drippings are quite clear. Put them into a large iron saucepan with only the water that hangs about the shells. Cover closely, and shake the mussels whUe heating to expedite their opening. As soon as this is accomplished (they will be hard and indigestible if kept over the fire too long), turn them into a clean earthen i)an, and commence to beard and remove the black part. Take a pint and a half of carefully -picked mussels, and pound them in a MUS (437) MUS mortar, then boil with a pint of made wine or cider, and a full pint of the juice that flowed from the mussels when boiled, a drachm of cayenne, and two drachms of powdered mace. When sulhcienlly boiled and skimmed, strain through a hair sieve. Bottle when cold, and see that the bottles are sealed as well as corked. Mussels, Pickled. Cleanse and prepare as before dii-ected. Boil until the shell opens, but no longer. Iteserve their juice and the water from the boiling. To this liquor mix in vinegar equal quantities of mace, whole pepper, and whole allspice. Boil together for live minutes, and throw the liquid cold over the mussels. Add salt if required. The mussels may be eaten at once, but will keep corked tightly for many days. Mussels, Ragout of. Cleanse the shells, and boil the mussels as before directed {se Mussels, Ketchup of). When bearded put them into a basin and the juice which flows from them into another. Dissolve a lump of butter in a stewpan,minc? some parsley, button mushrooms, and shallots, if liked. Stew them in the butter with a seasoning of mace, pepper, and salt, if required (though this last must be used sparingly); moisten with the liquor, and some gravy; if it be not enough, thicken with flour, and put in the mussels to get hot through, but do not let them boil. Time, a qiiarter of an hour. Mussels, Sauce of. Clean, boil, and beard the mussels as before directed {see Mussels, Ketchup of), put them with their juic? into a stewpan, season with cayenne and salt, and let them heat slowly, but do not let them boil. Stir in rich melted butter or thick cream until the sauce is of the proper consistency. A dessert-spoonful of vinegar may be added. Strain the juice of the mussels through a piece of muslin. Mussels, Scalloped. Cleanse the shells as before directed {se-c Mussels, Ketchup of). Beard the mussels when boiled, and reserve the juice that flows from them; strain it through muslin. Butter some scallop-sheUs or patty-pans, and have ready finely-prepared bread-crumbs, seasoned with cayenne, and a little white pepper and salt. Strew some of the crumbs over the bottom of the patty-pans or shells, and lay mussels over them; cover with the sea.soned bread-crumbs and bits of butter, continuing until mussels and crumbs are used up. Moisten with the reserved liquor, and run a little oiled butter over the top. Brown in the oven, and serve hot. Time, a quarter of an hour. Mussels, Soup of. The basis of this soup may be either a fish or meat stock. Take haK the quantity of stock required for the soup, mix with it a pint of pounded mussels, previously boiled and the beards taken off. Pound also in a mortar the hard-boiled yolks of three eggs, with a lump of butter, a little mace, cayenne, and salt ; boil for thirty minutes, then strain. Add the remainder of the stock, and sinmier for a few minutes longer. Put in another pint of mussels, and make hot but do not let the soup boil. Serve with toasted sippets. Sufiicient, two quarts of soup for eight persons. Mussels, Stewed. Take some carefullyprepared mussels, put them into a saucepan with as much of their liquor, strained and previously boiled with a blade of mace, as will be required to cover them. Let them stew gently, and just before boiling add a thickening of butter and flour blended together. Serve on hot toast. Time, eight to ten minutes to stew. Mustapha Ketchup. Procure from the butcher a fresh, soimd ox-liver ; rub it vith salt that has been rolled imtil fine, that the liver may not get bruised. Lay it into an earthenware tongue-pan, with salt under and over, and rub and turn the liver each day for a week or ten days. Take it from the pickle, wipe diy, and mince it small. Boil in four quarts of water untO. reduced to about three quarts, then strain through a sieve, and let it get cold. Pour it next day into a saucepan, keeping back the sediment ; add two ounces of whole black pepper, and an oimce each of allspice and ginger, and boil very gently, until further reduced to about half the quantity. Allow about a poimd and a half of salt. Mustard. Of mustard, two sorts are cultivated, the black and the white. Both are annuals and natives of Britain. The former is cultivated chiefly as a small salad, and is used, like cress, while in the seed-leaves. These are mild and tender when newly expanded, but when the plant has advanced into the rough leaves, they are rank and disagreeable to eat. For spring and simimer consumption white mustard should be sown once a week, or once a fortnight in dry, warm situations in February and March, and afterwards in any other compartment. In summer sow in shady borders, if the weather be hot and sunny, or have the bed shaded. To furnish gatherings in winter, or early in spring, sow in frames, or under hand-glasses ; and when the weather is frosty or very cold, in hot-beds and stoves. "Black mustard," says Mr. Loudon, "is chiefly cultivated in fields for the mill and for medicinal purposes. It is sometimes, however, sown in gardens, and the tender leaves are used as greens early in spring. The seed-leaves, in common with those of the cress, radish, rape, &c., are sometimes used as salad ingredients; but the grand purpose for which the plant is cultivated is for seeds, which, ground, produce the well-known condiment. If the seeds. Dr. Cullen observes, be taken fresh from the plant, and ground, the powder has little pungency, but is very bitter; by steeping in vinegar, however, the essential oil is evolved, and the powder becomes extremely pungent. In moistening mustard-seed for the table, it may be remarked that it makes the best appearance when rich milk is used ; but the mixture in this case does not keep good for more than two days. The seeds of both the black and white mustard are often used in an entire state medicinally." For salading, mustard is sown in flat-bottomed drills, about an inch deep, and six inches apart. The seed cannot well be sown too MUS (43S) MUT tMck. Cress almost invariably accompanies this salad herb. Mustard and Cress for Breakfast. The cress is an exceedingly wholesome herb, which from its pungent quality promotes and assists digestion. It is generally served in the centre of a dish, sm-roundod with white and red radishes. We would recommend, for weak digestions the cress -\vithout the accompaniment. Put a small saltcellar in the centre of a plate, and serve the cress around it. Mustard, Indian (?ee Indian Mustard). Mustard, Mixing of. It should bo made with boiling water, and only ia sufficient quantity to last a day or two at most ; if kept longer, the top of the mustard-pot should be fitted with a glass stopper, but fresh-made mustard is preferable. Put a little salt before mixing, and rub it quite smooth with the back of a spoon. Foreign mustard is to be had of any respectable grocer, but a pai ticular flavour may be given to mustard by moistening with shallot, tarragon, garlic, or any spiced vinegar, instead of water. Mustard Sauce. Blend together on a plate three ounces of butter with a dessertspoonful of browned flour, half the quantity of the best Durham mustard, and a little salt. Stir these ingredients, when smoothly mixed, into a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and simmer five minutes. Add enough vinegar to flavour, and serve as a sauce for fresh herrings. Mustard, Tartar. Moisten, with equal quantities of horseradish and chilli vinegar, a quarter of a powid of the best mustard, to which a tea-spoonful of salt has been mixed. Add the liquids gradually, and rub with the back of a spoon until smooth. Less chilli viaegar, and a little tarragon, if approved, vdll make an excellent mustard ; or more horseradish vinegar may be used, while the other vinegar is diminished in quantity. Sufficient, a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Mutton. This is the flesh of the sheep. The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is obtained, is that of sheep of from three to six years old, and which have been fed on dry sweet pastui-es. The flesh of sheep which have been reared on salt marshes, or on farms near the sea-coast, is also sweet and wholesome; the saline particles abounding in such situations imparts both firmness and a fine flavour. To suit the palate of an epicure, a sheep should never be killed earher than its fifth year, at which age the mutton will be found firm and succulent, dark-colom-ed, and full of the richest gravy. Mutton of two years old is flabby, pale, and savotxrless. To ascertain the age of mutton the following directions may be given: Observe the colours of the breastbone when a sheep is dressed, that is, where the breastbone is separated. In a lamb, or before the sheep is one year old, it will be quite red ; from one to two years old, the upper and lower hones wiQ be changing to white, and a small circle of white vi\l appear round the edge of the other bones, and the middle part of the breastbone will yet continue red ; at three years old, a very small streak of white wiU be seen ia the middle of the four middle bones, and the others wiU be white ; and at four years old, all the breastbones will be of a white or gristly colour'. The live weight with the offal of a lai'ge fat wedder, and the joints when cut up for market, are about as follows : St. lbs. Live weight . . . . 13 10 Blood and entraUs Caul and loose fat Head and pluck Pelt Carcass. First fore-quarter Second ,, Fu'st hind-quarter Second ,, Joints of one side. Haunch Loin Neck . Shoulder Breast . Loss lbs. oz. 13 21 4 8 12 15 12 29 28 12 33 8 32 23 10 4 12 10 12 4 8 12 Mutton (Invalid Cookery) "When mutton is tender it is the meat best adapted for invalids and persons whose digestive organs are not of the strongest. The most suitable mutton chops for them are those cut out of the centre of the leg. Mutton, Australian, and Stewed Carrots {see Australian Mutton, &c.). Mutton, Australian, Boiled, and Caper Sauce {se-e Australian Mutton, &c.). Mutton, Breast of. Boiled. Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the fat ; flatten it on the pasteboard, and cover the smrface thinly with a forcemeat composed of breadcrumbs, minced savoury herbs, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and an egg, to bind. The forcemeat should not be spread too near the edge, and when roUed, the breast shotdd be tied securely, to keep the forcemeat in its place. If gently boiled, and sent to table hot, and smothered with good caper sauce, it will be generally Uked. Time, two honrs to boil. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Mutton, Breast of. To Collar. Skin til 1 breast, and free it entirely from bone and gristle. When flat on the board, cover it vrith beaten egg, and have ready a forcemeat composed of the following ingredients: A large ( upful of bread-crumbs, some chopped parsley, .1 blade of pounded mace, two cloves, the peel of lialf a lemon, chopped as small as possible, a couple of anchovies, and the yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs. Mix and pound in a mortar, adding pepper and salt to taste. Cover the breast with the forcemeat, roU it firmly, tie with tape, and put it into a stewpan with boiling water, and simmer gently TintU tender, or bake, if preferred. To boil, two hours ; to bake, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 7d. to 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton, Breast of, with Peas. Out about two pounds of the breast of mutton into MUT (439 ) MUT rather small square pieces. Put thorn into a stewpan with about an ounce of butter, and brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth or water, and stew for an horn-. Remove the meat from the stewpan, and clear the gravy from fat. Put the me;it into a clean stewpan, add an onion or shallot, sliced finely, a bunc;h of sweet herbs, some popper and salt, and strain the gravy over all. Stew for another hour, when put in a quart of young peas, and in about fifteen minutes serve. Macaroni may be put in the place of peas. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Mutton Broth.. Lean meat is best for broth ; from two to three pounds of the scrag end of the neck is suited to the purpose, and if for a plain broth, not requiiing much strength, allow a quait of water to each pound of meat. Put quite cold water on the meat, and set it over a slow fire to heat gradually. Simmer gently, and remove the scum. AVhen no more scum is to be seen, and the meat is sufficiently done to be eaten, it may be removed for the family dinner, and any addition to the broth made. Pearl barley, rice, or oatmeal, with a carrot, a turnip, an onion or leek, may be added, the vegetables being cut neatly. Season to taste. Warm up the meat, and serve in a separate dish, or with the broth. Pearl barley should be boiled separately for a few minutes, and then strained, and boUed with the broth. Time to simmer meat, an hour and a half. Sufficient for two quarts of broth. Mutton Broth (Invalid Cookery). Boil one pound of the scrag end of a neck of mutton in about three pints of cold water, and if the patient can digest vegetables, it will be much improved by the addition of a little turnip, parsley, finely minced, and onion. Put in the vegetables when the broth boils, and simmer for an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Strain, and let it grow cold, then take off the fat. If pearl barley be added, it should be boiled as long as the meat, and before being put with it should be boiled in water for ten minutes, drained, and afterwards added to the broth. Veal may be boiled in the same manner ; the knuckle is the part generally used for broth. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for a pint and a half to two pints. Mutton Broth, Mock. Mix a tablespoonful of oatmeal to a smooth batter with three table-spoonfuls of cold water, and stir to it a pint of boiling water. Pour this into a saucepan and boil, and stu- for five minutes, adding, when as thick as required, a few drops of the essence of sweet herbs, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and salt and pepper to taste. Mutton Broth, Nourishing and Delicate. Take three pounds of the knuckle part of the leg of mutton, separate the shankbone, that it may lie flat in the saucepan. Cover with cold water, and mix in a table-spoonful of Scotch barley, which should be kept stirred imtil the water boils, then remove from the fire to simmer, adding salt, and skimming the surface while any scum rises. Strain off the broth for use, and serve the mutton with the barley round it. Time, thi'ee hours and a half to simmer. Mutton Broth, Quickly Made. Cut two thick choi s from the neck, but remove the bones and aU fat. Cut the meat into dice, and put it into a stewpan with a pint of cold water ; then scrape the bones, break them, and add them, vrith a very small onion, a sprig of parsley and thyme, and some pepper and salt, to the stewpan. Bring the water to the boil quickly, skim well, and continue the fast boiling for twenty minutes, when the broth will be ready. Take off every particle of fat; this is much easier done when the broth is allowed to cool. It should be re-warmed by setting the basin into boiling water. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per pound. Mutton Broth, Scotch, in Summer. Boil four pounds of lean mutton in four quarts of water, stir into it eight ounces of Scotch barley. Keep it well mixed until the water boils, and skim the sm-face carefully while siromering as fast as the scmn rises. Cut up a couple of carrots, a turnip, and an onion ; add these, vdth a quart or more of green peas, a few sprigs of parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of pepper and salt, mixed. The vegetables should not be allowed to boil a longer time than is requii-ed to cook them. Scotch broth may be made of beef or veal. Time, two hours and a half altogether. Sufficient for three quarts. Mutton, Casserole of, Plain. The remains of under-done leg of mutton cut into small neat slices, and seasoned appropriately, may be boiled in a basin with a lining of suetcrust, or in " plain casserole," which is in a mould thickly lined with mashed potatoes. The mould should be very well buttered, and when filled with the meat, moisten with some thick meat-gravy, and cover with more mashed potatoes. Turn out on a dish, and have ready some more gravy to serve with it. Bake for half an hour. Mutton Chops. Take chops from the best end of the neck, saw off about four inches from the top and the chinebones. Cut away the skin and gristle from the upper end of the bone, which will give the cutlet a round, plump appearance. Sprinkle each chop with salt and pepper, and dip them separately into dissolved butter. Strew with bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear slow fire, that the crumbs may not acquire too much colour ; or, oil each chop slightly, and broil over a brisk fire. A ti-immed mutton cutlet of five ounces in weight will require about six minutes to cook. Time, with bread-crumbs, seven or eight minutes. Mutton Chops (a la Soyer). First select weU-fed mutton, but not too fat, and get the chops evenly cut ; if not, beat them into shape with the chopper. Not more than one-third of the chop should be fat. Put an ounce of butter or lard into the frjong-pan ; when it is hot and smoky, seize the chop at the bone end with a fork, and dip it for haK a minute into the fat, then turn on one side, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and, if liked, finely-chopped shallot or onion, and savoury herbs. In three minutes turn, and serve the other side the same; equalise the cooking by frequent turning, but give the chop altogether not more than ten MUT (440) MUT minutes if thick, but less if a tldn one. A piece of garlic, if the llavour be approved, may be rubbed across the dish when hot, or it may be rubbed lightly across the chop. Serve with plain or maitre d' hotel butter. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Mutton Chops, Grilled. Shred some shallot or onion, and mince some savoury herbs ; put these into a stewpan with a lump of butter. Have ready-trimmed chops from the loin of mutton, dip each one separately into the dissolved butter, and cover quickly with finelyprepared bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt. Eroil on one side for three minutes, then turn on the other. The fire should be slow and even, that the bread-crumbs may not acquire too much colour; by turning them several times the cooking will be equalised. Serve hot, with a bit of plain butter on the top of each chop. Probable cost, 1 s. per pound. Mutton Chops with Vegetables. Where vegetables are to be had fresh from the garden, and in plenty, the following mode of cooking chops will be found economical, as well as wholesome and agreeable to the palate : Fry the chops, having first trimmed them into good shape, in butter, until half done, seasoning them with pepper and salt. Have ready by the time the chops are fried any seasonable vegetables asparagus tops, peas, celery, c arrots, turnips aU cut as nearly the same size as possible, and stewed in a little good white broth. Make a gra 'y with the butter in the pan, after frying a little shred onion, thicken it with flour, and add it and the chops to the stewpan with the vegetables. Shake them well together over the fire until they are quite done, and serve with the sauce over and about the chops. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1 s. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for f oirr persons. Mutton CoUops. Shred two or three shallots, a sprig or two of parsley, and a small bu.'ich of savouiy herbs. Take a few thin slices from the leg or loin of mutton, as underdressed as possible, and of equal sizes, sprinkle them with the chopped herbs, salt, pepper, and a little pounded mace ; fry the collops slightly in butter, about two ounces, add a good cup of gravy, a piece of butter kneaded with a dessertspoonful of flour, some chopped capers drained from their vinegar, or a little lemon- juice. Simmer for a few minutes, and serve quickly when done. Chopped gherkins may be used instead of capers. Suflicient, one pound and a half of meat for four persons. Mutton (Cooked like Venison). A fillet or neck of mutton, if prepared by being well hung (in cold weather, at least seven or eight days), and then steeped for a day or two in a mixture of vinegar and red wine, three or four bayleaves, the same of shred shallots, and half an ounce of black pepper and allspice, pounded and well rubbed into the meat before steeping, will be found nearly equal to venison. When to be cooked, it should be washed in warm water, wiped dry, and inclosed in a jmste of flour and water, which should be removed a quarter of an hour before serving. Dredge lightly with flour, sprinkle with salt, and baste until of a light brown colour. Send good gravy to table in a tureen, seasoned only with salt, and unmelted currant- jelly, on a plate. Mutton, Curried, Good. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and pound six middle-sized onions in a mortar; add the onions to the butter with an ounc? of cun-y powder, a tea-spoonful of salt, a dessert-spooniul of flour, and half a pint of cream. Stir until smooth. Fry two pounds of mutton, cut in neat pieces, without bone. Let them be of a light brown colour. Lay the meat into a clean stewpan, and pour the curry mixture over. Simmer until the meat is done. Time, two hours to simmer. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton, Curried, Plain. For a curry of cooked meat, cut the mutton into thin slices, or into dice, according to the quantity of meat to be curried. Put two ounces or more of butter into a stewpan, and two good-sized onions, chopped. Stir the onions in the butter until of a pale brown, add an ounce of curry powder, and the same of flour, with a Uttle salt; mix and stir for five minutes, moisten with a cup of stock, and stew gently for a few minutes longer. Put in the meat, and simmer until done, but do not let it boil. Serve with rice round the dish. Mutton Cutlets (a la Maintenon). Put a heaped table-spoonful of finely-chopped shallot into a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, and simmer them for five minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of minced mushrooms and the same of chopped parsley, which should be first blanched and dried in a cloth ; fry these and the shallot together for another five minutes, without buin LQg them. Season with pepper and salt, and add some highly-flavoured meatgravy. Have ready-trimmed mutton cutlets of two bones thick, the chinebone sawed off and one of the long ones removed. S jlit the meat carefully and neatly in two, nearly down to the bone, and insert some of the seasoning previously prepared. Close the edges by folding the imder part of the cutlet over the upper, and broil on each side for five minutes, or until the meat is of a nice rich brown. Place the cutlets on a dish, and surround them with the sauce; pour the remainder over, and bake for about four minutes in a hot oven. There are other recipes for Cutlets a la Maintenon, but this one may certainly challenge comparison with any other, and it has besides the advantage of greater simplicity of preparation. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, a pound and a half for two or more persons. Mutton Cutlets (a la lilinute). The mutton for these cutlets should be cut from the middle of the leg, in the same direction as when carving for a dinner, but slice it rather thinner, and season slightly with pepper. Fry the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it crisp, turning it often. Let the cutlets be kept warm before the fire while the gravy is preparing. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped -with a shallot, a sprig or two of parsley and thyme MUT (441 ) MUT minced fine. Stew these in the butter for a few j minutes, and season with salt and more pepper, j if necessary. Thicken, skini, and serve round the cutlets. Pi'obahle cost, Is. per pound. Mutton (a la Portugaise) . Cut and trim some neat cutlets from the best end of the neck, the bono to be cut short and the top scraped clean. Season with pepper and salt, and strew over them chopped parsley and shallot. ; Fry them slightly, adding a couple of bay- j leaves and a small bit of garlic about the size of I a pea. Take the cutlets out, and wrap each one j in a buttered paper, covering the paper and : cutlet with forcemeat. Broil them on a grid- iron over a slow even fire. Make a gravy in the 1 frying-pan, add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, a small tea-spoonful of anchovy-sauce, with salt and pepper. Pour it round the cutlets, and serve hot. Time, five minutes to fry ; eight minutes to broil. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets (a la Proven ale). Saw off the upper rib-bones from a neck of mutton, also the chine-bone, and divide the meat into neat cutlets, leaving only three inches of bone to each of them. Trim off aU superfluous fat, season with pepper and salt, and fry lightly in a stewpan with an ounce of good fresh butter. Make a seasoning as follows : Stew over a slow fixe, and in a closed stewpan, ten middle-sized onions chopped fine, and a small bit of garlic. Of the latter, take only enough to flavour, without giving any colour to the butter. When tender, add pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon, with the yolks of foui- raw eggs. Stir untU the seasoning has become a thick paste ; then, with a knife, spread it equally and thickly over the upper side of the cutlets, brush over with beaten egg, and cover with grated Parmesan and fried bread-crumbs. Bake the cutlets with a little good gravy to keep them from sticking to the pan. When done, serve them in a circle round a dish, and fill the centre with potatoes cut to an olive shape or in round balls, and previously fried in butter. A good gTavy round the dish. Time, ten minutes to bake. Suflicient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets (a la Soubise). Cutlets may be taken from the leg if lean cutlets are preferred, but the neck or loin may be ad- vantageously used, when the chops should be cut two bones thick, but removing one of them and also the chine-bone. About four inches is a good length for the cutlet. If cut from the leg, lard with bacon and tongue half an inch thick. Stew the cutlets in good well-seasoned veal or chicken stock sufficient to cover them, and when done press them between two dishes to flatten, then drain them. In the meantime prepare the Soubise sauce. First peel and blanch eight onions, slice them into a stewpan with more of the stock, and simmer them gently, without allowing them to get colour, until they are nearly dissolved, then add a similar quantity of bechamel sauce, and strain through a fine hairsieve. Put the cutlets into this pui-ee to wann up, and serve with croustades or more onions, prepared as before, but not crushed. The cutlets may also be served with French beans, or 29 any vegetable without a marked flavour- of its own. Time, until tender, about threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient, two cutlets for each person. Mutton Cutlets and Mashed Potatoes. Proceed as directed for mutton cutlets with tomato puree {see Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Puree), or the cutlets may be broiled. Have ready boiled two pounds of mealy potatoes. Beat them to a smooth paste with two ounces of butter, a wine-glassful of milk, and pepper and salt to taste. Place them in the centre of the dish with the cutlets, meatside downwards, round the potatoes. Time, cutlets, seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, with two pounds of mutton, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets and Pur e of Potatoes. Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, mash them with a wooden spoon, or press them through a sieve, but they must be smooth. Put them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, two or three tablespoonfuls of cream or broth, pepper and salt. Make them hot, and pile them in the centre of a hot dish. The cutlets may be bread-crumbed and fried, or, if preferred, broiled and served round the puree. Time, an hour to prepare. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton Cutlets (au naturel). These cutlets may be taken either from the leg or from the ribs. If from the ribs, cut oft" aU superfluous fat, and when well trimmed dip each one into clarified butter, cover with breadcrumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, and broil just long enough to heat them through; then dip them again into the butter, to be again bread-crumbed, and the cooking completed. Lay them before the fire on white paper, and press slightly with another paper over them. Serve with a sauce as follows : Stew in half a pint of brown gravy a handful of button mushrooms chopped, a sprig of parsley, half a bay-leaf, and the same of shallot shi-ed finely ; thicken with butter rolled in flour : take out the bayleaf, and add more salt and pepper if required. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets, Italian. Trim cutlets from the neck of mutton into good shape ; if not even, beat them to make them so. Cut off all superfluous fat. Lay them for a few minutes in a marinade of salad-oil and minced savoury herbs, or, if preferred, dip them in clarified butter, and again into beaten egg. Cover them with a seasoning as follows : Chop extremely fine some button mushrooms, or if these cannot be procured use mushroom powder. Prepare bread-crumbs, parsley, and savoury herbs (of each a table-spoonful), and reduce them to powder ; shred a shallot, and mince half a tea-spoonful of lemon-peel. Put these ingredients with a little pounded mace into a basin, and when mixed use for the cutlets, and fry a nice light colour in butter. Make a good gravy in the pan by browning a little more butter with a dessert-spoonful or more of flour, moisten with a large cup of veal MUT (442) MUT stock, adding any sauce (Harvey, soy, mushroom ketchup, &c.), and a dessert- spoonful of tarragon vinegar. When boiled and thick enough, dish the cutlets in a circle (they should have been kept wai-m), and poui- the sauce round them. Time, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 38. Sufficient, three pounds for six persons. Mutton Cutlets, Italian (another way). Clarify half a pound of butter, into which dip some carefully-trimmed cutlets of the best end of the neck of mutton, then immerse them in the beaten yolk of one or more eggs. Pass a cupful of bread-crumbs through a colander, to which add a little chopped lemon-peel, two shallots, a few sprigs of parsley, and a tablespoonful of savoury herbs, all minced ; season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Cover the cutlets thickly with these ingredients, and fry them a rich brown in butter. Keep the cutlets hot. Make some rich brown gravy by dredging some flour into the butter which remains in the pan, and stir rapidly until brown ; pour in half a pint of hot broth or soup, half a small glassful of port wine, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce and tairagon vinegar mixed, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a few mushrooms (if in season), if not, mushroom powder can be used. Boil the gravy up, and pour into the dish in which the cutlets have been placed. Time, ten minutes to fry cutlets. Probable cost, Ss. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton Cutlets, Reform Club. Trim four or five well-chosen thick cutlets, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, brush them with egg, and dip them into a mixture of pounded or iinely-minced ham and bread-crumbs, in equal quantities. Cover them weU with these, and fry in hot oil in a saute-pan for eight or ten minutes. Take care not to overdi-ess them, and turn frequently while cooking to keep their gravy from flowing. Serve round mashed potatoes with the thick end of the cutlet downwards, and pour over them reform sauce, made in the following manner: Put together two onions, two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounces of pounded lean ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of mace, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one of chilli vinegar, and a pint of brown sauce. BoU up, skim well while simmering for ten minutes, and again boU to reduce to the thickness of cream, when add a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly and one of finely-chopped mushrooms ; stir until the jelly is quite dissolved and the flavour of mushrooms is acquired, then strain through a fine hair-sieve. This is Soyer's celebrated sauce piquant. When wanted for use make the sauce hot, and add, without boiling any more, the white of hard-boiled eggs cut into strips, four mushrooms without the brown fur and previously blanched, a gherkin or two, a pinch of cayenne, and half an ounce of cooked ham, vsdth salt to taste. Gut all into strips of half an inch, like the eggs. Mutton Cutlets, Sauce for (see Papillote Sauce for Veal or Mutton Cutlets). Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Puree. Trim cutlets from well-hung mutton, beat them into shape after removing the chine-bone, dip them into dissolved butter, bmsh them with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs. Fry in boiling fat, turning them frequently during the frying. Put them on blotting-paper before the fire to drain. Have ready a puree of fresh tomatoes, made as follows : Pick a pound of ripe tomatoes, break them open, and put them without then- seeds into a stewpan with an onion or a couple of shallots, sweet herbs and spice if Hked, salt, and pepper; stir over a slovT fire until the tomatoes can be pulped through a hair-sieve ; return the pulp to the stewpan to simmer, add an ounce of butter well-worked together with a little flour, and stir in two ounces of meat-glaze. Arrange the cutlets in a circle a little overlapping each other, and fiU the centre with the puree. Serve hot. Time, ten minutes to dress cutlets. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, nine or ten cutlets for a dish. Mutton Dormers. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice as if for curry; chop a good half-pound of underdressed mutton, and three ounces of good fresh beef suet ; mix these with the rice, and chop altogether. Shred finely half a shallot, add it with a good seasoning of pepper and salt, and make into sausages. KoU these separately into a dish of beaten egg, cover with fine bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard or dripping until of a nice brown colour. Send the dormers to table with gi avy round them, and gravy also in a boat. Time, about twelve minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat. Mutton Escalopes, or Collops, with fine Herbs. Chop some mushrooms, parsley, and a shallot, and get small thin slices (about two inches square) from the chump end of a loin of mutton. Fry these brown on both sides in a stewpan with an ounce of dissolved butter ; the fire should be brisk, and the collops turned several times in the butter. When done, take them out, and keep them warm before the fire. Put in the mushrooms, parsley, and shallot, half an ounce more of butter, and stew for five minutes ; then add a table-spoonful of floui; a spoonful of ketchup, a quai-ter of a pint of stock, and the juice of half a lemon. Stir till thick. Put in the collops; make them hot, but do not boil ; place high in the centre of the dish ; pour the sauce over, and serve with toasted sippets or potato-balls. Time, fifteen minutes altogether. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Mutton, Fillet of, Braised. Cut the fillet from a weU-himg leg of mutton by taking off a few inches from the loin end, and a good knuckle, which will do for boiling, from the other end. Take out the bone, and fill the hollow with forcemeat, if liked, or put the fillet, well sprinkled with pepper and salt, into a braising-pan as it is, but first lay over the bottom slices of bacon, and on these a couple of carrots and two large onions, each stuck with four cloves, a small bunch of parsley and thyme, a few peppercorns, and half a pint of gravy or stock. Put more bacon on the top, cover the lid, and braise for three or four hours. Strain the gravy, and flavour it to taste ; MUT ( 443 MUT reduce it by rapid boiling. Have ready some French beans boiled and drained; put the beans into a stewpan with the gravy, and when hot serve them and the meat, which should be glazed, on the same dish. The chiunp end of a loin may bo roasted before the fire, enveloped in well-buttered paper, then glazed, and served with beans in precisely the same way. The meat should be roasted slowly without getting any brown colour. Time, about two hours to roast the chump. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Mutton Gigot (a la Gascon). Choose a tender well-hung bit of mutton. Blanch two or three cloves of garlic in several waters slightly salted, and remove the heads, tails, and bones of six anchovies. Lard the meat with the garlic and anchovies, roast the usual time, and serve with garlic sauce made as follows : Divide a dozen cloves of garlic, and take off their skins. Put them into slightlysalted boiling water, and, to make mild garlic sauce, change the water every five or six minutes until the garlic has lost its peculiar flavour and smell. Serve it like onion sauce, or drain and serve it in the dish with the meat. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. Mutton Hachis (a la Portugaise). Cut underdone shces fi-om a cold roast leg, and again divide them into pieces about the size of a florin. Brown shghtly in butter a little lean ham, a sliced carrot, and three shallots shred finely, a bit of garlic, some sprigs of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, two cloves, and a blade of powdered mace. Moisten with two glassfuls of madeii-a and a cup of good gravy or stock, and thicken the sauce withroux (a French preparation of butter and flour, similar to the EugHsh thickening of kneaded butter with flour) ; then boU, skim, and strain. Return the sauce to the stewpan put in the meat and make it hot, but it should not boil. Walnut or mushroom ketchup, or the liquor from onion pickle, are all allowable with hashed mutton. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat and wine. Mutton Haggis. Take the half of a sheep's liver with its heart and tongue, and about one pound of fat bacon. Mince all well together, and grate in two ounces of breadcrumbs and the rind of a lemon. Add two anchovies chopped, and mix the whole of the ingredients with a wine-glassful of sherry, two beaten eggs, and season to taste with pepper and salt. Press the haggis tightly into a mould well buttered, and boil for two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 4d., exclusive of wine. Mutton Ham. Choose a short, thick, fresh leg of mutton, weighing twelve or fourteen pounds, and cut it into the form of a ham. Pound in a mortar half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, and haK a pound of coarse brown sugar. Make the mixture hot in a stewpan, then rub it thoroughly into the meat. Turn the ham every morning for four days, and rub the pickle weU into it. On the fifth day add two ounces more of common salt. Rub and turn it in the brine for twelve days more, then drain, and wipe dry ; rub it with dry salt, and I hang it up in wood-smoke. No sort of meat is more improved by smoking with aromatic woods than mutton. When once dried it will keep for six months. Mutton ham* may be roasted or boiled ; but in either case they should be soaked, unless quite freshly done, when they will only require washing. As a breakfast -dish, with eggs, mutton ham is commonly used in the North of England and in Scotland : it is cut in slices as required, and broiled lightly. Time to smoke, one week. Mutton Ham, Smoked (see Ham, Mutton, Smoked). Mutton, Haricot {see Haricot Mutton). Mutton Hash [see Hash, Cold, &c.). Mutton, Haunch of, Roast. Unless this joint has been well hung it will be tough and insipid. A haunch of good Southdown mutton in fine, clear, fi'osty weather may be kept a month, but in damp weather it will requii'e much attention on the part of the cook to keep it from getting tainted in half the time. The great point is to keep it dry, by dusting it first with flour, which should be rubbed ofl; several times ?with a drj' cloth, and again renewed. When to be cooked, skin tie loin, wash, and wipe dry; then cover with white paper, or make a common paste of flour and water, and envelop the joint. Put it on the spit, or hang before a good, even, vigorous fire for the first half hour, basting it constantly with good meat-dripping. When within haK an hour of being done, take off the paper, and brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with flour, and baste copiously with butter, but first pour the dripping from the pan; sprinkle a little salt, and send it to table finely frothed. Make a gravy in the pan with what has dripped from the meat and a Little boiling broth drawn from the tiimmings ; salt and pepper. Serve cununt jelly or cuiTant- jelly sauce. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes per pound ; well done, eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per poirnd. Suflicient for tea or more persons. Mutton Hotch Potch. Cut up throe or four well-washed lettuces, and slice half a dozen young onions, browning them slightly in two ounces of butter ; add to the onions a pound of imderdone mutton minced, half a cupful of mutton broth from the boihng of the bones, and the cut-up lettuce:?. Stew all these ingredients together for twenty-five minutes. Stu- this hotchpotch to keep it from burning, and have ready boiled a pint of peas ; mix the peas with the mutton, and stir for a minute or two to make all hot. Underdone beef may be used if more convenient, and a few mushrooms, to be easily had in the country, may be chopped and fried with the onion. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of meat. Mutton, Kebobbed. This favourite Oriental dish can be prepared with our English mutton in a manner far superior to any Kebob at Turkish or Egj tian tables. Take a loin of mutton, joint it well at every bone, cut off all superfluous fat, particularly of the kidney, and remove the skm ; prepare a well-proportioned MUT (444 ) MUT aad large seasoning of the following ingredients: Some bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, nutmeg, peppor, and salt ; brush the mutton chops over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle the alwve mixture thickly over them ; then tie the chops together in their original order, run a slender spit through them, and roast before a quick iire, basting them well with butter and the drippings from the meat, and throwing more of the seasoning on them from time to time. Serve with the gravy from the meat, and have ready besides a boat of gravy, to which has been added two table-spoonfuhi of ketchup and a thickening of flour ; let this gravy boil ; skim and mix it with the gravy m the di. li. Romembei' that all dishes of mutton should be served as hot as possible. Time, a quarter of an hour to a pound. Probable cost, lO d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton, Kebobbed (another wSij). See Kobob])ed Mutton or Veal. Mutton Kidneys (a la Maitre d' Hotel). BroU three oi' four sheep's kidneys [see Kidneys, Muttou, Broiled), lay them with the rounded side downwards, and jjut about one ounce of maitre d'hotcl butter, prepared as follows, upon each one : Put four ounces of fresh butter into an enamelled saucepan, add a little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice; work these ingredients well together with a wooden spoon, not on the fire but near it. When thoro uglily mixed di de the butter into equal parts, put a piece upon each kidney, and serve. Time, about six minutes to broil the kidneys. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton Kidneys, Bread-crumbed. Take three or four mutton kidneys, cut them open from the rounded part without separating tliem; take off the thin skin, and pasa a small skewer through the points and over the back to keep them flat. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, dip each kidney in this, and afterwards strew some finely-grated breadcrumbs over them. BroU them over a clear fire for six minutes, throe minutes each side, and dish them neatly on a hot dish. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Mutton BLidneys, Broiled. Skin the kidneys, and open them lengthwise with a Iniife until the fat or root is reached, then keep them open with a skewer ; season with pepper, and broil first on the cut side (this will best preserve the gravy from wasting into the fire when the other side is turned to it). Have ready a round of buttered toast, draw out the skowers and lay the kidneys on it, with a piece of butter, cayenne, and salt on each. Serve hot, or spread the following mixture, as a higher relish, over the toast : KJnead together an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and cayenne to taste ; moisten with a teasjwonful of Harvey sauce. Serve hot. Time, six to eight minutes to broil. Probable cost, 3d. each. Allow one for each person. Mutton Kidneys, Broiled (another way). Take three or four sheep's kidneys, cut them open lengthwise from the round part without dividing them; put a small skewer through the ends and over the back so as to keep them flat. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and sHghtly oil them ; then broil them over a clear fire for six minutes, three minutes each side ; put them on a hot dish with the rounded side downwards. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton Kidneys and Rumps {sec Mutton Rumjjs and Kidneys). Mutton Kidneys, Pried. Remove the outer skin from half a dozen sheep' s kidneys, cut them in halves, and season them rather highly with salt and cayenne. Fry them in hot butter over a brisk fire ; when nicely browned upon both sides, serve them immediately on a hot dish. A dozen pieces of the crumb of bread of the same size and shape may be fried in butter for two or three minutes, and each half kidney may be served upon one of these. When this is done, half a pint of good brown gravy should be put into the dish with the kidneys. Time, eight minutes to fry the kidneys. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton Kidneys, Fried (another way). Proceed as before directed for broiling, but put the kidneys into a frying-pan -svith an ounce of butter, and a little pepper sjDrinkled over them. 'When done on one side, turn for an equal time on the other. Remove to a hot dish, add pepper, cayenne, salt, and a little sauce (Harvey's or any other), and pour the gravy from the pan over them. Serve hot on toast or without. Time, seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, allow one to each person. Mutton Kidneys, Stewed (a la Fran(,'aise) . Remove the skins from half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, and cut them lengthwise into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Season each piece rather highly with salt and cayenne, and dip it into some finely-powdered sweet herbs, namely, parsley and thj-me, twothirds of the former and one of the latter ; three or four finely-minced shallots may be added, if hked. Melt a good-sized piece of butter in the frying-pan, and put in the kidneys. Let them brown on both sides. When nearly cooked, dredge a little flour quickly over them, add a quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the strained juice of half a lemon. When the gravy is just upon the point of boHing, lift out the kidneys, put them on a hot dish, add two tablespoonfuls of either port or claret to the sauce, let it boil for one minute, then pour it over the meat. Garnish with fried sippets. Time, six minutes to fry the kidneys. Probable cost of kidneys, 3d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton Kidneys Stewed with Wine. Slice two veal or four sheep's kidneys, and fry them in a little butter until nicely browned on both sides. Drain them from the butter, put them into a clean saucepan, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of champagne, sherry, or any light wine. Add a little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a table-spoonful of good stock, and simmer MUT ( Uo ) MUT very g-cntly until tonder. Serve as hot .is possible. The relative proportions of wine and gravy may he reversed in this recipe, if prefen-ed. The kidneys are very good indeed if stewed in gravy tiavom-ed -with wine. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. Is. Sufficient for two or three persons. Mutton, Leg of, Boiled. For boiling, this joint should not hang so long as for roasting. Two or three days will be enough if the colour is considered of importance. This and careful skimming will prevent the necessity for a floured cloth, which some inexperienced cooks resort to. Gut off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, and wash the mutton. Put it into a large oval stewpan with plenty of boUing water salted slightly. When restored to its boihng state, skim the surface clean, and draw the stewpan to the side of the fire to allow the contents to simmer until done. Allow for a leg of mutton of nine or ten pounds' weight, two and a half hours from the time it boils. Boil very young turnips for a garnish ; these will take twenty minutes, but allow an hour for older ones, wliich are to be mashed. Place the turnips, which should be of equal size, round the dish, and send the mashed ones to table separately. Melted butter, with capers added, should accompany the dish. The liquor from the boiling may be converted into good soup at a trifling expense. Time, a quarter of an hour to each pound. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Mutton, Leg of, Boned and Stuflfed. Having removed the bone from a leg of mutton (a small one of five or six pounds), fill the space from which it was taken with a forcemeat composed of the following ingredients worked together into a firm smooth paste : Shred finely four ounces of suet and two of ham ; mis these with sis ounces of bread-crumbs, and flavour with a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, mai'joram, and basil, the same of parsley, and a couple of shallots ; add a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Moisten with a couple of eggs, well beaten first. Keep the forcemeat from falling out into the diipping-pan during the process of cooking by sewing up the opening, and roast before a brisk fire ; give the mutton twenty minutes to the pound. Or if a more savoury dish be preferred, poimd the solid parts of a couple of good red herrings to a paste. Season highly with pepper, and by detaching the skin from the thickest part of the joint, force the paste under and secure well. Those persons who have eaten a leg of mutton thus prepared pronounce it excellent. The mutton thus stuft'ed need not be boned. Trim off the fat from the mutton before putting it to the fire. Baste with good butter. For sauce, add to the gravy of the meat a small glassful of sherry, an anchovy pounded, and pepper and salt to taste; boil for a few minutes; thicken with butter rolled in flour, and serve in a tureen with half the juice of a lemon squeezed into it. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Braised. This joint might be introduced to our readers under a vari(.;ty of names; such ;'. Lol;,- of Mutton a la Napohtaine, a la Pi'ovencjalo, u la Bretonne, a la Soubise, and a separate recipe given for each, but as it is generally called after some sauce or garnish, we give a recipe for tlie braising alone : Procuic a small leg of mutton, cut off the end knuckle, and trim away unnecessary fat. Laid it with nan-ow strips of bacon which have been well seasoned with pepper. Line a braising-pan with slices of bacon, and lay in the mutton, with more sliccB on the top. Add four carrots, two turnips, two middle-sized onions, each stuck with two cIovcb, a stick of celery, two blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, with enough weak stock to cover. Stew gently for three hours, then reduce the stock by rapid boiling, and brown the meat in the oven, using a little of the stock with what flows from the meat to baste, and when glazed of a light colour serve with the sauce pom-cd over it. A leg of mutton braised as above may be garnished with glazed carrots and onions, or a la Napolitaine, with boiled macaioni in the dish, and Neapolitan sauce over and around the macaroni, or u la Proven(;ale, with the sauce of the same name, and a garnish of mushrooms glazed, &c. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Braised (another way). Small lean mutton is particularly adapted to this mode of coolcing. It may be larded and braised, or done without the larding. Put it into a braising-pan with slices of bacon over and imder, so that the bottom of the pan shall be well lined. Between the mutton and bacon strew cut carrots, onions, sweet herbs, parsley, and a bay-leaf, also a bit of garlic, if liked, and pepper and salt. Moisten with half a pint or more of good meat gravy or broth, and allow a leg of six or seven pounds to stew neai'ly four hours. If stewed very gently the hquor will not have lost much in quantity. When the meat is done enough, strain, reduce the gravy by quick boiling, and serve in a tureen. Glaze the mutton, and send it to table garnished with onions, which should also be glazed, and white haricot beans boiled in good veal broth under the joint. A dozen peppercorns and four cloves, with a stick of celery, may be added to the braising-pan if a higher flavour is Uked. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Oysters with {f:ee Oysters with Leg of Mutton). Mutton, Leg of. To Marinade. Get the skin taken off the leg, and with three or four large juicy onions, which should be halved, rub until the mutton is well impregnated with their juice. Afterwards lay it into a marinade of the following ingredients : Infuse, in equal quantities of vinegar and water (a quart in all), four cloves of garhc, a dozen or more of bruised peppercorns, and four cloves, a bunch of herbs, and one of parsley, with a dessert-sj)oonfiil of salt. The dish should be fi'om five to six inches in depth, that the marinade may surround the meat well. Keep it in this twenty-four hoiu?, then again rub it with four more fresh onions, and return it, this time on the other side, to MUT ( 446 ) MUT the marinade for the same space of time. Hang to drain all the next day, then wipe dry, and roast the leg in a buttered paper, and serve with currant jelly. Time, three hours to roast. Mutton, Leg of. To Roast. Get a leg of about eight pounds, and which has hung at least a week, weather allowing. During hot summer weather this joint gets quickly tainted. liub it lightly with salt, and put it at once before a brisk sharp" fire. Put it at the distance, so says Kitchener, of ten or twelve inches from the fire at first, that it may gradually get warm to the centre. Baste continually with a little good dripping until that from the joint begins to flow. When within twenty minutes of being done, dredge it with ilour, and baste with butter or dripping ; and when the froth rises serve on a hot dish. Make a gravy, throw off the fat, when any gravy, if the dripping-pan has been floured, will adhere to it. Add a little extract of meat to this, and a little boihng water, pepper, and salt. Pour the gravy round the meat, not osrer it. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine pereons. Mutton, Leg of, with Forcemeat, This savoury dish is very common in Australia. A leg of mutton is carefully boned so as not to injure the skin, the fat is pared off, and about a pound of the mutton, with an equal quantity of bacon, minced together. A seasoning of garlic, onions, and pickles is then given to it, and the mince is ready; or, it is sometimes prepared simply seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, if to be eaten by ladies or children. The hoUow made by cutting out the bone, &c., is filled with the mince, and the skin secured over the opening to the underside. Meanwhile, a gravy is made by boiling the bone and trimmings with as much veal broth or water as wiU be necessary to stew the leg ; vegetables are added, an onion and a caiTot sliced, a small bunch of parsley, with a seasoning of pepper and salt. Lay slices of bacon over the top of the leg, and stew gently, with the lid of the pan closed, for three hours and a half or more. When done, strain the gravy, boil it rapidly, and reduce it to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, or thicken the gravy simply vith browned flour and serve it with the meat. French beans, boiled in the usual manner, drained, and then warmed up in some of the gravy, may be laid under and around the leg of mutton. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Leg of, with Garlic- The pe?uliar pungent taste of garlic is very little Kked by the English, although we cannot but aijknowledge that it adds to the variety of dishes that may at times prove acceptable. The following treatment will considerably soften the garlic's acridness and render it less objectionable, while at the same time retaining its characteristic flavour. Stuff under the skin of a leg of mutton near the shank three or four cloves of garlic that may have been boiled or not, according to taste, the water having been changed repeatedly to mellow their flavour. Roast the leg in the usual way. Divide the cloves from the bulbs of as many garlics as will be sufficient for the sauce, peel, and put them into water, boil for a few minutes, when throw the water off and replace it by more boUing water. Do this after several successive intervals of five minutes, always slightly sailing the water. When the garlic has become sufficiently tender to pulp, di-ain off the water by pressing the bulbs, and add good gra\-y made from the roasting of the meat. When hot, serve the meat on the garlic. Time, a quarter of an hour to a pound ; to boil gai-lic, half an hour. Probable cost of mutton, Is. per pound. Mutton, Leg of, with Potatoes. This homely mode of cooking a leg of mutton is not to bo set aside because of its simplicity. If baked carefully, and cooked to the right point as it ought to be, a feat not always accomjjlished when baked at the common oven, it wiU be found excellent, particularly the potatoes, as they will have absorbed aU the dripping of the joint, and, where economy in the use of meat as a family dinner is concerned, the potatoes will satisfy the appetite, especially of children, without encroaching largely on the j oint. Everybody will allow that the odour of the working man's Sunday dinner is most tempting to the appetite; but, barring the question of fire, we do not think it the most economical of dishes. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, a leg of mutton of moderate size for eight or more persons. Mutton, Loin of. Cooked like Venison. A loin of mutton may be made to eat like venison by boiling down a woodcock or snipe which has hung so long to be thought too liigh for roasting, and using the gravy to moisten the mutton stew. The mutton should have been well kept. Take off the skin and some of the fat, bono, and put it into a stewpan with the gravy, and the same quantity of port wine, an onion, a few peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of minced herbs, and a sprig of parsley. Stew very gently, and skim well ; this must be done often and as long as any greasy particles remain on the surface. Serve very hot with currant jelly. Time, about three hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Mutton, Loin of, Roasted. Follow the directions given for roast leg in every particular [see Mutton, Leg of, To Roast), but trim off all unnecessary fat, which may be used for a common suet crust. If the fat be not turned to account there is no more expensive joint than a loin of mutton. Cover the fat with paper until within a quarter of an hour of its being done, then remove, baste, and flour slightly, to get it frothed. Time, a quarter of an hoiir to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, six pounds for five or more persons. Mutton, Loin of. Rolled, Hang the joint for two or three days, then bone and remove unnecessarjr fat; lay it out flat, and season highly with allspice, cloves, mace, and pepper, reduced to powder. Next day cover the side on which the seasoning has been laid with a forcemeat as for veal, and roll the loin into a MUT ( 447 ) MUT tight compact shape, which must bo secured with a string. Eou.st it until half done, or bake it, as most cunvenii ut, but only brown it slightly, and remove the fat irom the gravy when cold. Have ready a gravj made f i oni boiling the bones, adding to it that which dripjicd ; put the meat and gravy into a stewpan, and stew until tender. A few musluooms or half a glassful of mushroom ketchup may be added while stewing: when done, put the meat unrolled on a dish ; add a table-spoonful of baked flour, and pour the gravy over, salted to taste, and boiled. A glaesful of port vine added just before the gravy is boiled up will improve it much. Time to bake, an hour and a half ; to stew and bake, three hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Mutton, Loin of, Stewed with Pickles. Having roasted a loin of mutton until nearly done, cut oif from three to foujpounds of the chump end, and pare the fat to within an eighth of an inch. Put thi'oe large mushrooms into a stewpan with half a pint of mutton gravy, and stew them for a few minutes ; then put in the meat, and add a tea-spoonful of soy, two of chutney, a table-spoonful of shallot vinegar, and a quarter of a pint or more of mixed pickles ; add of salt and cayenne about half a grain. While ste'wing, keep the mutton well moistened with the gravy ; remove the fat before ser-ving, and send to table very hot. Time, an hour and half to stew underdone mutton. Suihcient for four persons. Mutton, Minced. Put a lump of butter into a stewpan ; when it has melted dredge in flour enough to absorb the butter, and keep it well' stirred over a slow fire until of a hght brown colom- ; add half a pound of mutton from a roast leg, minced finely, and have ready a cup of good broth made fiom the bone, with the addition of a liit of well-flavoured ham, and pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; mix well, and simmer gently for half an hour, but do not boil. Remove from the fire, and stir in a bit of anchovy butter the si e of a walnut. Serve with a garnish of toasted sip]3et3 or a border of endive boiled as follows: Pick the yellowish-white leaves from the stalk, and boil them in plenty of salted water, then throw them into cold; drain, press, and chop. Make hot in a clean stewpan with a little good white sauce, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, add the yolk of an egg or two, and ser%-c round the mutton. Mutton, Minced (another way). Take the remains of a roast leg or loin without fat, mince it very finely, put it into a stewpan with a breakfast-cupful of gravy drawn from the roast to a pound and a half of meat, and season with pepper, salt, and a httle grated nutmeg ; add a table- spoonful of browned flour, and let the mince heat gradually, but do not let it boil. In twenty minutes sei've - -ery hot with poached eggs round the dish ; or the mince may be made more savoury by the addition of a dessertspoonful of walnut ketchuj), and the same of walnut pickle, Oude sauce, &c., but less gravy ?will be required. Minced mutton may be served with a border of macaroni, fii-st boiled tender in salted water, and then stewed after draining in new milk. I-'ou:' ounces of macaroni will requu-e one quart of water, and when drained from it half a pint of milk will be sufficient ; add to the milk an oimce of butter, the half of a small teaspoonful of made mustard, to which a quarter of a grain of cayenne has been added, and a little salt. Time, half an hour to boU macaroni in water ; quarter of an hour in milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton, Minced and Baked. Take sHces of mutton (the meat from a cold roast leg is best) without much fat, mince them, and add a tea-spoonful of savoury herbs, a blade of pounded n ace, two shi-ed shallots or an onion chopped very fine, and some of the meat-gravy to moisten, with a very little flour to thicken the giavy, and season with pepper and salt. Fill a pie-dish with alternate layers of mashed potatoes and the minced mutton ; put tht potatoes at the bottom of the dish, and finish the top in the same way. Time, half an hour to bake. Suflacient, a pound and a half of mutton for four or five persons. Mutton, Neck of. Boiled. Shorten the ribs and saw oft' the chine-bone of a neck of mutton, or from three to four pounds of the best end ; to look weU it should not exceed five inches in length. Pare off the fat that is in excess of what may be eaten, and boil slowly in plenty of water slightly salted ; skim carefully, and remove the fat from the surface. The meat may be served plain with caper sauce in a tureen, and a garnish of boUed mashed turnips and carrots cut into thin strips, placed alternately round the dish. Four middle-sized turnips and three carrots may be boiled with the mutton. Time, a full quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton, Keck of, Browned. Boil as in preceding recij e, but not quite so long ; finish by cooking the mutton before the fire, first covering it with a mixture of fine bread-crumbs, parsley, and sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and a little mushroom powder, cemented together with the beaten yolk of one or more eggs. When nicely browned, serve with half a pint of gravy thickened with a dessert-spoonful of browned flour, and add a table-spoonful of lemon- juice. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, four poimds for six or seven persons. Mutton, Neck of. Roasted. We have already recommended that the rib-bones of this joint should be shortened, to give a nice appearance to cutlets, and we also, for economy's sake, and to give a nice squareness to the piece of meat, advise the purchaser to get it done, if possible, by the butcher. The meat of the neck from a well-fed sheep we think superior to that of the loin. Take off any excess of fat, and roast precisely according to directions given for roast loin {see Mutton, Loin of. Roasted), always remembering that the fire for cooking mutton should be clear and brisk, but not fierce. A httle salt rubbed over the joint when it is ready to be put to the fire, a hberal basting, and some flour diedged over, to froth it nicely, are all that is wanted to satisfy a good appetite. Serve with plain MUT ( 448 ) MUT gravj-, baked tomatoes, or currant jelly. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, four pounds for four or five persons. Mutton, Oxford John {sec Oxford John). Mutton Patties. Line some tartletmoulds with a puff paste. Take an equal weight of lean mutton from the fillet and fat bacon, which pound together. Season to taste with salt, a very small quantity of spice, and cayenne pepper. Place a round ball of the meat into each patty-pan, cover with paste, and make a small hole in the centre. Bake in a quick oven, and pour into each x tty through a funnel a little well-seasoned gravy, or glaze before the patties get cold. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of paste, Is. 4d. per pound. Mutton Patties (another way). These patties are often made with cooked meat, which is minced, then hashed in good gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little ketchup. The mince should not boil, but be made hot, and thickened. Patty-pans, lined wdth half puff-paste and filled with the meat, will require a very short time to bake. Cover with the paste, and put them into a quick oven. Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost of paste. Is. per pound. Mutton Pie. A very good family pie is made with the remains of a cold leg, loin, or any other joint of mutton from which nice neat slices of rather lean meat can be cut. These should be put with a good seasoning, in alternate layers with thinly-sliced potatoes, into a pie-dish, commencing at the bottom with some of the meat, and finishing at the top with potatoes. Parsley, savoury herbs, onion, or shallot, with a little mace, white pepper, and salt may be used at discretion. A cupful of good gravy from the meat should be poured into the pie before the crust is put on. Suet is generally used for the crust. Time, an hour to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 6d. to 8d. Mutton Pie, Good. Make a seasoning of chopped parsley (about two table-spoonfuls), of powdered savoury herbs and a minced shallot, in equal proportions, a dessert-spoonful, or an onion shred small, the shallot being omitted, with pepper and salt to taste. Cut from two to three pounds of neat chops from the loin or neck of mutton, weighed after the bone and much of the fat have been removed ; put them, well covered with the above seasoning, into a piedish. Cut three kidneys into halves, and each half into two parts, distribute them equally amongst the meat, pour in half a pint of veal broth or water, and bake with a puff or good suet crust; the latter will be found very suitable if eaten hot. A table-spoonful of ketchup and two of port wine may be added to the gravy, but there should in that case be less water. Time, about an hour and three-quarters to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Mutton, Potted. Cut into thin slices, and then pound together in a mortar, eight oimces of well-dressed roast mutton, freed from fat and sinew, and half that quantity of boiled tongue ; then mix with the pounded meat three ounces of good fresh butter, and add, while pounding, a salt-spoonful each of made mustard and white pepper, with a quaiter of a grain of caj enne, and salt, if required. Store in a cool place, arid in an earthenware jar, or in several small ones, over which should be run some clarified butter. Mutton, Quality of. "The quality of mutton," says a well-known authority, "varies much in the different breeds. In the large long-haired sheep it is coarsegrained, but disposed to be fat. In the smaller and short-wooUcd breed the flesh is closest grained and highest flavoured, but the quality of the flesh is probably most affected by that of the food upon which the flocks are fed. Those which range over the mountainous districts of Wales and Scotland, or the chalk downs of England, and feed upon the wild herbage, possess a flavour very superior to those kept in rich pastures and on marsh land. The Welsh mutton is particularly small and lean, but of the finest flavour. Marsh-fed mutton often becomes extremely fat, but the meat has a rank taste. Turnips, hay, chaff, bran, com, and other vegetables, as likewise oil-cake and grains, are employed for fattening sheep for the market ; but such mutton is never so good as that produced when the animals can range in freedom. In point of delicacy and flavour. Southdown Wether mutton is considered equal to any that is killed : in summer it is thought preferable to some other finely- flavoured breeds, especially Norfolk mutton. This circumstance is said to arise from the closeness of the grain, or from the specific gravity being greater, rendering it more impermeable to the air than mutton that is coarser and looser-fleshed, the latter being, of course, more subject to putridity. The older the mutton the finer is its flavour. Wedder mutton is always preferred so much before that of the ewe that the flesh of the latter, although more commonly kept to a mature age, always sells at an inferior price." Mutton, Ragout of. Slice thinly two turnips, two carrots, and two onions ; these last brown in a broad-bottomed stewpan with two ounces of butter or dripping, shaking in a little flour, and stirring to prevent it from browning too quickly. Cut small short chops from a cold roast loin or neck, or from the breast small square pieces, free them from fat, and brown them on each side in the same butter; then pour in as much weak broth or water as may be required, say about half a pint, and add the sliced turnips and carrots, a sprig or two of parsley, and some pepper and salt. Stew very gently until the vegetables are tender. The flavour of this ragout may be varied by the introduction of celery, cut lettuces, or green peas, and these last, when in season, are generally preferred to turnips and carrots. Arrange the meat in a circle, and put the vegetables in the centre, with the sauce over all. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 4d. Sufficient, a pound and a half for four persons. Mutton, Ragout of, French.- Place three ounc es of butter in a stewpan ; as it melts, MUT (449) MUT stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour ; continue to stir until it is nicely browned, then put in about two pounds of breast or neck of mutton cut into square pieces, and sufficient water to nearly cover the mutton ; flavour with a few sprigs of parsley, which must afterwards be removed. Add two lumps of sugar, and pepper and salt to taste. When it has once boiled, remove to the side of the fire, and be careful only to let it simmer for an hoirr. Fry to a nice brown three good-sized turnips previously cut into dice; put them into the.stewpan with the meat, and simmer for a couple of minutes. Arrange the ragout upon the dish, placing the turnips in the centre, and the pieces of meat round the edge. Pour the sauce over the whole, and serve very hot. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Mutton, Roast, wi* Garlic (a German recipe). The acrid flavour of garlic is not much relished by English palates. We confess, with our continental neighbours, that it is an essential to many made dishes in the form of a soup on only. By boiling the garlic, and repeatedly changing the water during the process, the flavour may be so mollified that few persons would disagree with us. The folio-wing German mode of cooking a leg or shoulder of mutton is ?wnth garlic in its raw state : Separate a garlic bulb into the smallest cloves, and envelop each one in a leaf of green sage. Beat the joint leg or shoulder ; take off the skin, and force the garlic well into the middle of the mutton by several holes made for the purpose. Secure the openings, rub the joint with pepper and salt, and roast in the usual way. Long strips of shallot are often used instead of garlic ; these are put in with the larding-pin all over the mutton. A few tarragon leaves or tarragon vinegar, a tea-spoonfiil of caraway seeds, a quarter of a pint of beer, and the same quantity of water should be put into the dripping-pan to baste the meat. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Mutton, Roebuck FasMon. Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung. Eemove the fillet, skin, and cut away the fat and bones. Lay the loin in a marinade composed of equal parts of vinegar and water, to a pint of which add half a pint of port wine, a couple of carrots, and two large onions cut into quarters with a clove in each, a dozen peppercorns, two blades of mace, a bimch of herbs and parsley, some bay-leaves, and two tea-spoonfuls of salt. Wiien the mutton has lain in the marinade twenty-four hours, turn it, and let it lie until next day, then drain, and put it into a braisingpan with a little of the pickle, the pan being well lined with bacon, and more bacon being placed over the top. Stew it three hours. Glaze the meat, and serve with gravy, adding walnut ketchup and a glass of claret. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton Rumps and Kidneys. Trim half a dozen mutton rumps for stewing, and skin, split, and lard the same number of mutton kidneys; season them with cayenne. Put the rumps, with a pint of good mutton gravy, into a stewpan, add two onions, each stuck with two cloves, a blade of mace, a handful of button mushrooms chopped, or a spoonful of mushroom powder, with salt and pepper. Stew them in the gravy, with the stewpan closed, until the rumps are tender. Drain, and wipe them dry. Strain the gravy into another stewpan, add to it a quarter of a pound of rice, previously boiled dry as if for cvirrj', and let it get hot through while the rumps are fried. Dip them first into beaten egg yolks, and then roll them in bread-crumbs, seasoned nicely with salt, pepper, grated lemon-peel, or nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of thyme and parsley mixed. When of a light brown, have the kidneys ready (they should be roasted, and well basted), turn the rice into the centre of a hot dish, and arrange the rumps and kidneys round it ; or they may be served with French beans boiled in the usual way, and then warmed up in some of the gravy instead of rice. Time to stew rumps, half an hour ; to fry, ten minutes ; to roast kidneys, twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 2s. Mutton, Saddle of (a la Portugaise) . Prepare a marinade as follows : Boil together, in two quarts of port wine mixed with a pint of vinegar, a couple of onions, each stuck with six cloves, six bay-leaves, two large carrots, half a dozen small turnips, a bunch of parsley, and a clove of garlic or three shallots. Put the mutton into a rather deep dish, with the top and flaps neatly trimmed, and any excess of fat removed with the skin ; pour the marinade boiling over it, and keep it basted often until cold; then turn the meat in it once a day, and, in five or six days, drain, wipe dry, and roast for a quarter of an hour over the usual time for mutton, covering it with a buttered paper, and basting constantly until done. Serve with a gravy from the meat to which a little of the marinade has been strained and a good quantity of currant jelly been added. Time for ten pounds, two hours and three-quarters. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Saddle of, Roasted. A saddle of mutton, if hung in a cool airy place, will keep from five to ten or twelve days, according to the weather ; but as this part of the sheep is the most tender and delicate, it will be fit for roasting in from four to five days. If not for a large family, get the joint well trimmed; the flaps, tail, and chump end may be cut away, which will considerably lessen the weight, and be found more advantageous to the purchaser, even at a higher price per pound. In its entire state it is considered an expensive joint, consequently people of moderate means and family, unless so accommodated by the butcher, can seldom order it. Roast as before directed for roast loin {see Mutton. Loin of, Roasted). The joint should be skinned, and the skin tied over it securely until within half an hour of its being sent to table, when it should be removed, and the surface browned and frothed. It shovild be of a pale brown colour. Make a gravy in the dripping-pan: do not pour it over the meat, but put a little in the dish, and more in a tureen, with red -currant jelly or port -wine sauce. MUT ( 450 ) MUT Time, ten pounds, two hours and a haH, or less if liked underdoae. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Sauce for {see Queen Mary's Sauce for Roast Mutton). Mutton Sausages. A delicate sausage is made from the remains of an underdone leg of roast mutton, or any other joint from which slices can be got without fat. Chop a pound of lean underdone mutton and six ounces of beef suet separately ; then mix them with four ounces of finely-prepared bread-crumbs, and put them into a basin with a pint of oysters bearded and chopped, two anchovies, a seasoning of thyme, marjoram, and powdered mace, and some pepper and salt. Moisten with two beaten eggs, and a little of the anchovy liquor if required. Make into a firm paste, and roll iato sausages or make into balls, but the sausagemeat will keep for a few da,ya. Time to fry, seven or eight minutes. Mutton, Scrag (a la Menehould). Soak in warm water and wash the undivided scrag end of the neck of mutton ; drain, sprinkle lightly with pepper, and hang it for a couple of days. Slice three or four young carrots, and divide into quarters three middle-sized onions, line the bottom of a stcwpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay in the scrag, with slices of bacon over the top, and the vegetables which have been sliced, with a couple of bay-leaves, a sprig of thjTno, marjoram, and basil, a small bunch of parsley, thirty white peppercorns, and as much liquor from the boiling of a knuckle or scrag of veal as will cover the meat well. Prepare a cupful of broad-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and when the meat is tender drain it from the gravy in which it has stewed ; cover with the seasoned crumbs, and brown in a quick oven, or with a salamander. Time, four hours to stew. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Mutton, Shoulder of (a recipe by a Scotch lady). Hang a shoulder of mutton until tender, and, when ready for cooking, put it before a bright clear fire for three-quarters of an hour, or, according to the weight of the shoulder, until half done. Remove the joint from the fire, and, as expeditiously as possible, score it on both sides. Put it again to the tire, first emptying the dripping-pan of the fat, and replacing it with the gravy that may have flowed while scoring, and enough of meat-gravy to make half a pint ; add the same quantity of port wine, and a spoonful each of walnut and musliroora ketchup, with two fine anchovies boned and pulped, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. AUow the usual time for roasting, but baste copiously with the above sauce. Rub the dish, when made hot, on which the mutton is to be served with cut garlic or shallot, and pour the sauce from the pan over it. Mutton, Shoulder of, Boiled. Half roast, or stew, or parboil, a joint of six pounds, then cut it once or twice on both sides to the bone, season the cuts and outside with csayenne, and finish dressing on a gridiron over a brisk fire ; take the gra\y, not the fat, add to it some pickled mushrooms, large and small, and strew over, and garnish the broil when served. It is needless to remind the reader that dishes and plates should aU be made very hot, especially for mutton. Time to parboil, one hour ; to griU, twenty minutes. Average cost, lO d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton, Shoulder of, Roasted. This joint should be weU hung; a fortnight in cold dry weather will not be found too much if for a roast. Rub one of six or seven pounds lightly with salt, and put it before a bright clear fire ; baste continually until done, keeping it at eighteen inches distance from the fire to let the heat peneti-ate the middle. When within twenty minutes of being ready for serving, the joint should be drawn nearer to the fire, dredged slightly with flour, and basted to give it a frothed appearance. Have ready some boiled Spanish onions, glaze them, put the mutton on a hot dish, make a gravy from the drippings, garnish %vith the glazed onions, and send onion sauce to table in a tureen. Time, a ?quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, 9 d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton, Shotdder of. Stewed. Hang this joint as long as possible in dry cold weather ; for stewing three days will be sufficient. Procure one, not too large or too fat, pare off what is unnecessary of the fat, and use it for a common crust ; take out the bladebone, and fill the space with a forcemeat as for veal, sew up the opening, slice an onion, a carrot, a turnip, and a stick of celery, put them with the mutton into a stewpan, pour in good stock enough to cover, and add a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, two cloves, a dessert-spdonful of salt, haJf the quantity of white pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne. Let the whole simmer gently, with the lid closed, for four hours, strain, and thicken the gravy -svith an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; put the meat on a hot dish with a little of the gTavj'-, add to the remainder half the juice of a lemon and a glassful of white wine. Serve with French beans boiled in the usual way, drained and warmed up in good gravy, or with spinach round the dish ; or, having taken out the bladebone, sprinkle the under side with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and shred shallot, but use only enough of the latter to give it a slight flavour. Roll the meat into a nice shape, and stew gently for three hours in a braising-pan with a pint of good stock, add salt, a very small pinch of cayenne, a few peppercorns, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and, an hour before serving, a couple of carrots cut into strips, the same of turnips in halves, and four middle-sized onions ; pour in a glass of white wine, and when ready serve the vegetables round the meat, and the gravy over it. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Mutton, Shoulder of. Stuffed. Having boned a shoulder of mutton, and trimmed off the excess of fat, stretch it out on a pasteboard, and sprinkle over it pepper and salt. Make a sausage-meat with equal quantities of lean pork and bacon (a pound in aU), seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little MUT ( 451 ) MUT mace ; pound these in a mortar, and stuff the shoulder ; then round it to a nice shape, having first secured the forcemeat ; use strong thread, and if properly and carefully done there is no fear of the sausage-meat leaving its place. Put the stuiied shoulder iq a large stewpan containing some melted butter, and brown sUghtly both sides of it. Pour in a quart of good broth or water, and when it has boiled, and been skimmed, add a bunch of savoury herbs, an onion, a carrot, a handful of button mushi-ooms, and two cloves ; simmer until done, basting the meat often with the gravy during the last half hour. Serve the meat on a hot dish ; strain and take off all fat from the gravy, keep the meat hot before the fire, return the gravy to a small stewpan, and boil rapidly until it is reduced in quantity ; then pour it over the meat, and garnish with glazed onions. Time to brown, seven or eight minutes for each side ; to dress altogether, two hours and a half. Probable cx)st, 9 d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Shoulder of, with. Oysters. This joLut is seldom cooked at the present time in this fashion, but we give the recipe to show the variety of ways in which a shoulder of mutton may be served. When boned, it should be highly seasoned with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Place a layer of oysters, bearded, over the inside of the meat, sew up the opening, and roll the joint up neatly, securing it with a broad tape so that it may not get loose during the stewing, simmer gently in beef gravy or broth just enough to cover it, add an onion stuck with two cloves, and half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper; serve with oyster sauce poured over the meat. Time, according to size, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient, seven pounds for six or seven Mutton Steaks, French. Cut steaks from the neck ; make them neat by shortening the bones, which put aside with the trimmings for gi'avy. Put the steaks into a stewpan, and bring them to the boil, with a few small onions, savoury herbs, and water to cover ; remove at once to a dish to drain, put the trimmings and bones into the liquor from which they were taken, and boil for an hour. WhCn strained, set the gravy to cool, and when the fat is cleared off thicken it with browned butter and flour; flavour with salt, pepper, and a little A-inegar. When the steaks are ready (they should be fried in the meanwhile, and dipped into egg, bread-crumbs, and finely-minced herbs), pour the gravy on a hot deep dis-h, and lay the steaks into it. Time to boil steaks, two minutes ; to fry, five minutes. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. Mutton, stewed. Take sUces of half an inch tliick, and without fat, from any roast joint, season them well with pepper, salt, a little shred shallot, and mushroom powder, mixed together, and sprinkled over the meat. Put a pint of broth into a stewpan, lay in thi; meat with a couple of young carrots sliced, and a couple of small onions. Let the mutton stew until the carrots are tender ; keep the lid of the stewpan closed. Put the meat in the centre of a hot dish, thicken the gravy with half an ounce of butter kneaded with a Httle flour, add any store sauce Harvey's or any other preferred and serve with dried rice round the dish. Time to stew meat, half an hour. Sufficient, a pound and a half of meat for four or more persons. Mutton, Stewed and Baked. A shoulder of mutton is deprived of its greasy quality by being partially boiled, or rather stewed, and its cooking completed in the oven. Procure a middle-sized shoxilder, trim off any excess of fat, and bone it ; put it into a stewpan with just water enough to cx)ver it. Simmer gently for two hours or more, according to the j size. Put it before the fire, tie a good lump of I butter in a coarse muslin, rub the mutton well over, and then strew thickly with fine raspings, chopped parsley, thyme, pepper, and salt, mixed together. Finish the cooking in the oven ; half an horn- in a good oven will be sufficient. Serve on a hot dish with boiled spinach j round the mutton, and gravy in a tureen. I Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Suffi j cient for five or six persons. I Mutton Stock for Soup, For a rich soup allow a poimd of meat to a pint of water, but do not use mutton onli ; a mixture of meats will make the best soup. Four pounds of mutton, with the same weight of beef, or rather less of veal, necks, feet, and bones of undressed fowls, and of a calf's head, with a layer of lean j ham, or half a pound of Jewish smoked beef, laid over the bottom of an iron soup kettle, and a pint or a pint and a half of water to each pound of meat, will make very excellent stock, with the addition of vegetables. Boil the meat and bones slowly, and skim carefully ; add to each gallon, when boiling, one ounce and a half of salt, three onions, each with four cloves, three carrots, three turnips, two heads of celery, a bunch of parsley and thyme, a blade of mace, and a dozen white peppercorns ; strain for use. Time to simmer, six hours. Mutton Tails. Cut them into halves and boil, or rather stew, until tender, in broth or water, skimming the surface free of all fat, &c. ; add salt, an onion or two stuck with cloves, a bunch of parsley, and a few fine herbs. When tender, take them out, drain, and dip them, but they should be first scored, into dissolved butter; cover with nicely-seasoned breadcrumbs, and when these have dried poirr more dissolved butter over, and again cover with the crumbs, and brown with a salamander ; thicken the gravy, add a little lemon-juice, and serve with the gravy poured over them, which should be di'ained. Mutton tongues may be cooked in the same manner, and served on the same dish, aiTanged alternately. Time, two to three hours to stew. Mutton Tea (Invalid Cookery). To a pound and a half of lean juicy mutton, cut into small dice and without bone, allow one pint of water ; put it into a saucepan, and pour the water cold on it. Infuse this by the side of the flre for half an hour, then boil, add a little salt, and remove the scum. Simmer gently for another half hour, and let it settle ; then strain. MUT ( 452) WAP keeping back the sediment. If to be re-warmcd set the basin in boiling water. Probable cost of mutton, Is. per pound. Mutton Tongues. Boil in good stock broth, having first blanched them, half a dozen sheep's tongues until the skin may be taken off easily, then split them nearly thi'ough without separating them. Put them into a stewpan with a little of the stock, a glassful of white wine, half a pint of small onions previously fried in butter, a little shred shallot, or if liked a small bit of garlic, and some button mushrooms, with a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and some pepper and salt. When the onions are tender, set the tongues on a dish, roots inwards, and serve with a puree of onions or turnips in the centre, and the small onions as a garnish round them. Time to boil, two to three hours ; to warm in sauce, fiiteen minutes. Mutton Trotters. Sheep's trotters are served on the continent plain boiled, accompanied with oil and vinegar in a tui'een, or they are boiled until tender, the bones carefully removed, and the feet dipped into a batter before frying; theymayalsobe stewed, and, after boning, the space left by the bones maybe filled with a forcemeat as follows: Pound together a small quantity of cooked veal, and the same of bacon oi- fresh suet ; mix these with finelyprepared bread-crumbs, add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and bind with beaten egg. Take some of the broth in which the trotters have been boiled, stew them in it thus stuffed for about twenty miniites, adding a seasoning of shred shallot, and any store sauce. Put the trotters on a dish, boil the sauce rapidly for ten minutes, then pour it over the feet, and serve. Mutton Trotters (another way). These require long and slow stewing, either in water with vegetables, carrot, onion, celery, a few cloves, and peppercorns, or with white sauce; they are sometimes boned, and stuffed with forcemeat, the trotters being first boiled long enough to slip their bones easily without injury to the skin. Lay them so stuffed into a stewpan with a little of their own liquor from the boiling ; when they have been stewed thus for haK an hour, take out the trotters and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which cover them, and serve. Before cooking, cut off the hoof, singe, wash, and blanch, for five minutes, in boiling water. Time to stew, three hours and a half. Mutton, Venison imitated with {see Gravy, To make Mutton like Venison). Mutton with Mushrooms. Peel four or five flap mushrooms, and wash, but drain weU; take thin slices from an underdone leg of mutton, about a pound, season them with cayenne and pepper, a quarter of a grain of the former mixed with a salt-spoonful of the latter, and a tea-spoonful of salt ; add a shred onion, and a piece of garlic the size of a pea. Lay half the seasoned mutton into a pie-dish, and on it place the muskrooms, which should be large enough to cover, with a piece of butter, a quaiter of an ounce in each. Fill the dish with the mutton, put bits of butter over the top, and pour in a quarter of a pint of gTavy from the roast or the boiling of the bone, to which a little pounded mace has been added. Cover with another dish, and bake slowly. Time, three-quarters of an houi' to bake. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for three persons. My Own Cakes. Beat well six fresh eggs, and remove the specks ; have ready baked eight ounces of flour. Put the flour into a bowl with eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar, of sweet alnaonds, blanched and poimded, and of citron, minced, each two ounces; moisten with the eggs, and flavour with thirty drops of the essence of vanilla, and haK a small wine-glassful of cura(,'oa, first mixed with eight ounces of dissolved butter, and then with the ingredients in the bowl, which must be beaten for several minutes. During the beating process add, sprinkling them in from time to time, three or four ounces of clean well-dried currants. Butter small fluted moulds, but do not fill them ; leave space for rising. The oven should be quick, and the cakes put in as quickly as possible. When nearly done, ice over the tops, flavouring the icing with a few drops of vanilla ; make the icing by beating the white of an egg, with two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar ; add five drops of vanilla. These cakes may be eaten hot or cold. Time, about twenty minutes to bake ; ten minutes to beat the mixtirre. N Nanterre, Gateau de (?ff Gateau de Nanterre) . Naples, or Finger. Biscuits. Take eight eggs. Divide the wnites from the yolks, and put them into separate bowls. Beat the yolks thoroughly, and mix with these haK a poimd of finely-sifted loaf sugar, a small pinch of salt, two or thi-ee di-ops of almond, lemon, or any other flavouring, two ounces of best flour, and two ounces and a haK of corn-flour. Beat thoroughly to a thick smooth batter. Whisk the whites to a solid froth, add them a little at a time to the rest, beating briskly aU the while. Place them on a baking sheet, in fingers four inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide, sift a little sugar over them, and bake in a moderate oven. They should not be allowed to brown. Time to bake, a quaiter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. Naples Sauce for Fish. Take oneeighth of a pint of freshly boiled shrimps, remove the shells, and put them into an enamelled saucepan, and with them a large anchovy, freed entirely from skin and bone, two shallots finely minced, a dessert- spoonful of biiiised capers, and thi-ee dessert-spoonfuls of strained lemon -juice : a little piece of garlic not larger than a small pea can also be put in if the flavom- is liked. Stir over the fire for six or seven minutes, pour in a quarter of a pint of good stock, and add a smaU pinch of cayenne and haK a blade of mace. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, thicken the sauce with a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, rolled thickly in flour, and boil ten minutes longer. WAS ( 453 ) NEA Strain the sauce, adding another dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice ; make it as hot as possible without letting it boil, then draw it from the fire, and stir in a quarter of a pint of thick cream. S. rve at once. Time, ttree-quai'tei's of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for haK a dozen persons. Nasturtium.. This elegant plant sometimes goes under the name of Indian cress. It thrives satisfactorily in this country, but is a native of Peru. The young leaves and flowers of the nasturtium are frequently employed in salads. Its seeds, when pickled, make a good substitute for capers {sec Nasturtium Seeds), and its fine yellow flowers are used to garnish dishes. There are two species of nastui'tium, the small and the large ; the latter is the hardier, and is that usually cultivated. Nastxtrtium Pickle, The buds and seeds of the nasturtium are both used for Eickle. The former are the more delicate, the itter.the more highly flavoured. The buds should be gathered before the petals protrude beyond the calyx, the seeds while they are quite young and as soft as green peas. All that is necessary is to gather them on a dry day, put them at once into a jar, cover them "v\'ell with cold vinegar, and when the harvest is over cork them down tightly. A little seasoning may either be put into the vinegar or not. It may consist of two ounces of salt and a dozen peppercorns to each quart of vinegar. At the end of a few months this pickle will be foimd to be very nicely flavoured. Time, to be kept twelve months before being used. Probable cost, uncertain, nasturtium buds and seeds being seldom sold. Nasturtium Seed Sauce (for BoQed Mutton, &c.). Take two table-spoonfuls of nasturtium seeds, preserved as in the last recipe, cut them into small pieces, and put them aside until wanted. Dissolve one ounce of fresh butter in a stewpan, dredge threequarters of an ounce of flour slowly into it, and make it quite smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Add haK a pint of boiling gravy, and beat it until quite free from lumps. Season with a dessert-spoonful of nasturtium vinegar, a pinch of cayenne, and a little salt if required. Put in the bruised nasturtium seeds, boil up once more, and serve. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Suflicient for six or seven persons. Nasturtium Seeds (a substitute for Capers). The seeds of the nasturtium plant are excellent as a substitute for capers to be served with boiled mutton. Gather them while they are still young and green, wash them well in cold water, put a little salt with them, and let them soak until next day. Dry them weU with a soft cloth, put them into glass bottles, and cover them entirely with cold vinegar. Two ounces of salt, a dozen peppercorns, a small piece of horse-radish, fouior five leaves of tarragon, and two cloves may be put with each quart of -inegar. Cork the bottles securely, and store them in a cool dry place. The nasturtium seeds wiU not be ready for use until the next summer. Probable cost, uncertain, nasturtium seeds being seldom offered for sale. Nasturtium Vinegar (for Flavouring Sauces, &c.) . Gather nasturtium flowers which are fully blown, put them into large glass bottles, and shake them well together. Fill the bottle with cold vinegar, and put a finelyminced shallot and the third of a clove of garhc with each quart. Let the vinegar remain for two months. At the end of that time strain it through a tamis, and add half an ounce of cayenne and half an ounce of salt. Put the vinegar into small bottles, and cork securely. Probable cost, 8d. per quart. Nautese Salad. Peel half a dozen small Spanish onions. Take out the core, put a little butter inside each, and bake them in a moderate oven, basting occasionally -with butter untU they are quite tender. Let them get cold, then cut them into slices, and lay them at the bottom of a salad bowl. Scrape half a dozen sardines, preserved in oil or butter, or, if preferred, soak a Yarmouth bloater for three or four- minutes in boiling water. Remove the skin, take the flesh from the bones, and lay the fish in convenient-sized pieces upon the onion. Slice half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, place these on the fish, and strew over the whole two table-spoonfuls of finely -minced parsley and a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon or chervil. Serve with salad dressing. Time, one hour to bake the onions. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Neapolitan Cake. Blanch and pound to a smooth paste six ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds, and whilst pounding them keep dropping in a little orange-flower water or rose-water to prevent them oiling. Add a pinch of salt, the grated rind of a large lemon, four ounces of fresh butter, haK a poimd of sifted loaf sugar, and ten ounces of flour. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work them together with the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and leave them in a cool place for half an horn-. Roll the paste out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it out in rounds about the size of an ordinary cup-plate, lay these upon a floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When they are firm and lightly coloured take them out, trim the edges, and when quite cold lay them one upon another, and spread a thick layer of differently coloured jam on the top of each round ; and as each piece is put on press it lightly with the hand, so that the jam shall make the rounds adhere together, and so form one cake. Before serving sift a Little pink sugar over the top, or garnish as fancy dictates. Time to bake the rounds, about half an houi\ Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Neapolitan Custard Pudding. Cut two sponge-cakes into slices, and spread a little jam over each slice. Place them in a buttered pie-dish, sprinkle over them six or seven powdered ratafias, and pom- over the whole a custard made as follows : Sweeten half a pint of milk with three lumps of sugar which have NEA ( 4.54 ) NEC ?been well rubbed upon the rind of a largo fresh lemon. Let the custard nearly boil, then stir into it a table-spoonful of flour which has been mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Add two ounces of fresh butter, and stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens. When almost cold add the woU-beaten yolks of three eggs, put the pudding into a moderate oven, and bake until it stiifens. Whip the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, sweeten them with powdered sugar, flavoured with ratafia-flavouring, and place them on the top of the custard. Put the pudding in the oven again eight or ten minutes before it is served that the eggs may stiffen a little. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Neapolitan Gateau {see Gateau, Napolitaine) . Neapolitan Ice [see Glace, Napolitaine). Neapolitan Sauce. Take one ounce of loan ham, mince it finely, and put it into a small stewpan with quarter of a pint of thickened brown sauce, four table-spoonfuls of stock, a glassful of claret, one table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, two table-spoonfuls of redcurrant jelly, one table-spoonful of grated horse-radish, two shallots, a small bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thpne, one clove, an inch of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. Simmer gently for twenty minutes ; strain, and serve. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for six or seven persons. Neapolitan Sweetmeats (a Dish for a Juvenile Party). Roll out some good puffpaste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in rounds, diamonds, or any shapes that may be preferred, remembering only to have an equal number of each shape. Place these on a floured baking-sheet, and bake in a quick oven. When cold spread a thick layer of different coloured jams upon half of them, press the other halves on the top, and garnish with a little piping of pink and white icing. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, '2s. per pound. Neats' Feet, Potted. Boil two neat's feet in a small quantity of water until the flesh easily leaves the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces, and place these neatly in a mould. Season a small quantity of the liquid vdth salt, cayenne, and a little mace ; pour it upon the meat, and when cold and stiff turn it out on a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time, four hours or more to simmer the feet. Probable cost, 8d. each. SufScient for six or seven persons. Neats' Feet Soup. Take two neat's feet which have been merely scalded and cleaned, not boiled. Put them into a stewpan with three quarts of good stock, one pound of pickled pork, a bundle of sweet herbs, and the rind and juice of a small lemon ; simmer gently for four hours until the liquid is reduced to about half its quantity and the bones leave the flesh easily. Strain the soup ; cut the meat into convenient-sized pieces, and return both again to the saucepan, adding one pint of strong beefgravy and a glassful of sherry. Season with a I little cayenne and salt, if necessary ; boil up ! once more, and serve. Time, five hours. i Probable cost of feet, 8d. each. Sufiicient for six j or eight persons. i Neats' Feet with Parsley Sauce. j A neat's foot or cow's heel, which is the same ; thing, is generally three-parts cooked when ! oft'ered for sale. If it is wished to cook it { separately, one or two recipes will be foimd ; elsewhere; but the substance of the feet con\ sists of so little besides gelatine and bones J that they are more valuable when stewed to eni-ich other dishes than when served by themselves. They are sometimes stewed with I a very smaU quantity of water until the bone I leaves the flesh, and then served with a little parsley and butter, flavoured with lemonjuice. Probable cost, 8d. each. Sufficient, one foot for two persons. Neats' Tongues, To Salt for im I mediate use. Take a couple of neats' ; tongues. Trim them neatly, and cut off the roots without taking away the under fat, wash them thoroughly, diy them in a cloth, and rub them well with two ounces of common salt, one ounce of brown sugar, and half an ounce of saltpetre. Place them in a long deep pan, and turn and rub them every day for a fortnight, j at the end of which time they will be ready for use. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. j Sufficient, one tongue for eight or nine persons. I Neats' Tongues Cured for Keep I ing. Prepare two tongues by trhnming them neatly and cutting off the roots without disturbing the under fat. Wash and dry them, and rub them well with an ounce of saltpetre j and an ounce of sal prunella. Rub them well I every day for four days ; place them in a long I earthenware pan, cover them with a pound of common salt, and turn them every day for three weeks. Wipe them with a soft cloth, dip them in bran, and hang them in smoke for a fortnight. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. Neat's Tongue, Potted. Take half a pound of cold boiled neat's tongue, with a small quantity of fat. Cut it into thin slices, and pound it in a mortar; season it vdth half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of fresh mustard, and three or four grates of nutmeg ; add, whilst pounding, two ounces of clarified butter. Press the meat into small potting- jars, and pour clarified butter over the top. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Nectar. Take off the thin rind of two fresh lemons, and put it into an earthenware jar with one pound of chopped raisins and a pound and a half of sugar. Pour over these ingredients two gallons of boiling water, let the liquid stand until cold, then add the strained juice of the lemons, and leave it in a cool place for a week, stirring it every day. Strain it through a jellybag until quite clear, and bottle it for present use. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for two gallons of nectar. Nectar (another way). Take two pounds of chopped raisins, four pounds of loaf sugar, and two gallons of boiling water. Mix these NEC (455 ) NEC ingredients, and stir frequently till the water is cold, then add two lemons sliced, three pints of proof spirit either brandy or rum. Macerate in a closed vessel for six or seven days, giving the vessel a shake now and then, then strain with pressure. Set the strained Liqueur in a cool place for a week ; when clear, decant and bottle off. Nectar, May {see May Nectar) . Nectar, Vauxhall, To Imitate {see VauxhaU Nectar, To Imitate). Nectarine Pudding. Stew a dozen nectarines, not over-ripe, with a little sugar until they are quite tender. Beat them well with a fork, remove the skin and the kernels, let them get cold, then mix with them the wellbeaten yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of finely-grated breadcrumbs which have been soaked in as much cream as they will absorb, and add a little more sugar if required. Line a dish with good puffpaste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven ; strew sifted sugar over the top before serving. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Nectarines and Peaches. These fruits are both the produce of the same species of plant, the skin of the first being smooth, that of the second downy. Both contain a considerable quantity of sugar, but cannot boast of possessing great nutritive properties. The seeds of the nectarine are employed for making noyeau and flavouring brandy. NECTAErNE AND PEACH. Peaches and nectarines are dessert fruits of a very high order. They make delicious preserves, and in America and in some parts of France are used in the manufacture of a sort of brandy. The leaves contain prussic acid, and consequently when steeped in gin or whisky impart a flavour resembling that of noyeau. According to Mr. Loudon, the following are the characteristics of a good peach or nectarine: "A good peach or nectarine possesses these qualities : the flesh is firm ; the skin is thin, of a deep or bright red colour next the sun, and of a yellowish green next the wall ; the pulp is of a yellowish colour, full of high-flavoured juice ; the fleshy part thick, and the stone small." The peach was introduced into this country about the middle of the sixteenth century. It is always reared against walls or under glass. Both peaches and nectarines are divided into the "free-stone" or "melting" peaches, in which the flesh or pulp separates readily from the stone; and the "cling-stone varieties," in which the flesh clings or adheres to the stone. The first named are usually the best flavoured. Nectarines, Candied. Gather the nectarines when perfectly sound and not overripe. Weigh them carefully, rub them mth a soft cloth, split them in halves, and take out the stones ; boil half their weight of sugar with a quarter of a pint of water to each pound, and when quite clear put in the nectarines, and let them boil gently until they are clear, but unbroken ; then lift them out carefully, and put them on an inverted sieve to drain. Next day boil the syrup until it is quite thick, put in the fruit, and boil it gently for five minutes, and on taking out the nectarines again drain them ; repeat this process twice. After the nectarines are taken out the last time spread them on dishes, place them in a moderate oven, sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and turn them about until they are dry. Nectarines, Pickled. Gather the nectarines when fully grown, but not qmte ripe. Look them over carefidly, remove any that are at all blemished, and put the rest into salt and water sufficiently strong to float an egg ; lay a thin board over the fruit to keep it well under 'water, and leave it for two or three days. At the end of that time drain it well, diy it with a soft cloth, put it into pickling jars, and cover entirely with good white wine vinegar. Put half a blade of mace, six cloves, a piece of whole ginger, and a quarter of a pint of mustard seed with each quart of vinegar. Tie down the jars securely, and store in a cool dry place. The pickle wiQ be ready for use in two months. Keep the nectarines well covered with vinegar. Nectarines, Preserved. Gather the nectarines when they are fully grown, but not over-ripe. Split them in halves, and remove the stones; put the weight of the fruit into a preserving pan with a quarter of a pint of water to every pound of sugar; boil it to a clear syrup, then put in the fruit, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Pour the preserve carefully into a bowl, breaking it as Little as possible, and let it remain until the next day, when it must be boiled again for ten minutes. Lift the fruit out carefully with a spoon, put it into jars, boil the syrup fast by itself for ten minutes, and pour it over the fruit ; break the stones and blanch the kernels, put a portion in each jar, and tie down securely. Store in a cool dry place. Nectarines, Preserved (another way). Gather the nectarines when fuUy grown, but not over-ripe. Wipe them with a soft cloth, and put them into a pan of boiling water. Place them near the fire, but not upon it, as it NEG ( 456 ) NET is only necessary thut the water should not be allowed to cool. Let the nectarines remain for an hour, then take them out, throw them at once into cold water, and leave them for another hour. Place them on an inverted sieve to drain. Push out the stones. Put the weight of the fruit in loaf sugar into a preserving-i an with a quarter of a pint of cold water to each pound of sugar. Boil to a clear syrup, then put in the nectarines, and the kernels blanched and sliced, and let them boil for five minutes. Pour them carefully into a bowl, and let them remain for twenty-four hours. Drain off the syrup, and boil it for five minutes everj- day for a week, pouring it each time boiling hot over the fruit. At the end of that time boil all together quickly for ten minutes. Lift the nectarines carefully out with a spoon, and put them into jars with a portion of the blanched kernels in each jar. Add the boiling syrup, and when cold tie down securely. Store in a cool di'y place. Negus, This popular beverage derives its name from its origiaator. Colonel Negus. The ingredients of which it is composed are either port or sherry and hot water, the quantity of the water being double that of the wine. Sweeten with lump sugar, and flavour with a little lemon- juice, and gratod-nutmeg, and a morsel only of the yellow rind of the lemon. It is an improvement to add one drop of essence of ambergris, or eight or ten drops of essence of vanilla to every twelve glasses or so of negus. Negus (another way). Sweeten the wine accoi-ding to taste, and grate a little nutmeg into it. The proportions are generally three ounces of sugar and a quarter of a small nutmeg to a pint of port. Mix with it an equal quantity of boiling water, and serve cither hot or cold. The thin rind of a lemon or a Seville orange, without any of the inside of the fruit, is a great improvement to negus. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, according to the quality of the wine. Sufficient for a quart of negus. Nesselrode Pudding. Peel two dozen Spanish chestnuts. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, then take off the second skin, and boil them until tender with half a stick of vanilla and half the thin rind of a fresh lemon in the water with them. Drain them well, and pound them in a mortar. Press them through a hair-sieve, and mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a glass of maraschino, and half a pint of thick cream Dissolve threequarters of an ounce of best isinglass in a little water, stir it into half a pint of hot cream, add the chestnuts, &c., and keep stirring the mixture gently until it is sufficientlj stiff to hold the fruit without letting it fall to the bottom. "Work in two ounces of picked and diied currants, and two ounces of candied citron cut into thin strips. Put the mixture into an oiled mould, and set in a cool place to stiffen. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil the chestnuts. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Nesselrode Pudding (another way). Peel about two do ;i-u Spanish chestnuts. Throw them into boOing water, and let them i-emain for five minutes. Drain them, take off the second skin, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of water and half a stick of vanilla, and lot them simmer until quite tender; then pound ill a mortar to a smooth paste, and press them through a fine sieve. Mix the weU-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint of warm cream, and add four ounces of loaf sugar. Put the custard into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling water, and stir it gently untU it thickens. Put in the pounded chestnuts, and pass the mixture through a tamis. Add a glass of maraschino, and freeze in the ordinary way. Take one ounce of stoned raisins, one ounce of candied citron cut into slices, and one ounce of dried and picked currants. To prepare them, let them soak in a little maraschino mixed with a small quantity of sugar for several hours, or let them simmer gently in syrup for about twenty minutes, then drain and cool them. Vhen the pudding is set, put the fruit in with it. Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of water to a syrup, beat it briskly with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, mix with it the whites of three eggs which have been whisked to a firm froth. Work these into the pudding, and add last of all half a pint of whipped cream. Place the pudding in an ice-mould, put on the Ud, freeze, and turn out when wanted. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Nettle. The common nettle is one of a tribe of plants which includes the fig, the hop, and others employed as food. Nettles are used as an article of diet in some parts of the countrj-. They are wholesome, and almost medicinal in their properties. Nettle Beer. -The stalks and leaves of the nettle are used in some parts of England for making a light kind of beer, which may be seen advertised at stalls, and in humble shops in Manckester and other towns. Nettle, Rennet of. In the Western Islands of Scotland a rennet is prepared by adding a quart of salt to three pints of a strong decoction of nettles, a table-spoonful of which is said to be sufficient to coagulate a bowl of milk. Johnson. Nettle Tops. The young tops of the common and smaller nettles may be boiled as pot-herbs dui-ing spring, and eaten as a substitute for greens; they are not only nourishing, but mildly aperient. Nettles, Spring, To Boil. In many country-places nettles are eaten freely as a vegetable in the early part of the year, as they ai-e considered excellent for pm-ifying the blood. The young light green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the water from them ; put them into a hot vegetable dish, score them across three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. Probable cost, imcertain, nettles being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, two pounds for four por.sons. NEU ( 457 ) NOR Neufchatel Pudding. Beat the yolks of four eggs briskly for three or four minutes, then put them into a saucepan, and with them the whites of two eggs, eight ounces of fresh butter, and four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar. Stir gently over a slow fii-e for twenty minutes or more. Line a pie-dish with good puff-paste. Spread on the bottom a layer of either orange marmalade, or apricot jam, pour the mixture on the top, and bake in a good oven. Sift a little sugar over the pudding before serving. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. New College Puddings. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef-suet very finely, mix with it four ounces of finely-grated breadcrumbs, or, if preferred, powdered sweet biscuit, add a quarter of a pound of currants, a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and an ounce of finely-shred candied peel. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten them with three well-beaten eggs, add as much milk as will make them of the proper consistence, and fry them in spoonfuls, in a little hot butter, till they are brightly browned on both sides. Shake the pan frequently to prevent them burning, and turn them over when one side is sufficiently cooked. Arrange them neatly on a hot dish, and strew sifted sugar thickly over them before serving. Time, six or eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for haK a dozen persons. New England Pancakes. Mis three table-spoonfuls of fine flour very smoothly with a little cold milk. Add gradually half a pint of cream, a small pinch of salt, the weU-whisked yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and two or three drops of lemon, almond, or any other flavouring. Let the batter stand for an hour before it is cooked, then fry it in pancakes as thin as possible. Strew a little sifted sugar and powdered cinnamon upon each pancake, and roll it round before putting it in the dish. Serve very hot. Time, five minutes to fry each pancake. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Newmarket Pudding. Put a pint and a quarter of good milk into a saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, a bay-leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little piece of stick cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes. Let the milk cool, then mix with it the wellwhisked yolks of five and the whites of three fresh eggs. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Butter a pie-dish. Put a layer of thin bread and butter at the bottom, then a layer of currants and stoned-and-chopped raisins. Repeat until the dish is nearly full. Pour the custard over, let the bread soak for an hour, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, about threequarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. New York Plum Cake [see Plum Cake, New York). Nightcap. Simmer half a pint of ale, and when on the point of boiling pour it out ; grate half a quarter of a nutmeg into it, and add a 30 tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Drink the nightcap the last thing before getting into bed. Time, five minutes to heat the ale. Sufficient for one person. Nightcap, Bishop Oxford {see Bishop Oxford Nightcap). Nockerl- Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream ; m\x smoothly with it two ounces of dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and the white of one ; add a pinch of salt, and the eighth of a small nutmeg grated. Spread the mixture on a flat dish, and put it in a cool place for a couple of hours. A few minutes before it is wanted, put a little broth or milk into a saucepan, and let it boil. Take the mixture up in small quantities, form these into shape with a wet spoon, being careful to handle them as little as possible, and drop them into the boiling liquid. When done enough, drain them, grate a little Parmesan over them, and serve as hot as possible. Time, six or eight minutes to boil. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Nonesuch Pudding. Grate the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar; crush it to powder, and mix it with four ounces of dried flour. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Add gradually and smoothly the sugar and flour, two ounces of raisins, stoned and chopped small, and five eggs weU-beaten. Mix thoroughly, and pour the pudding into a buttered mould ; steam it over boiling water, turn it out before serving, and send some good custard or winesauce to table with it. Time to steam, two hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nonpareil Liqueiir. Take a fully ripe pine-apple, and pare off the outside skin; bruise it in a mortar; add one dozen and a half of sharp ripe white magnum bonum plums, and one dozen of ripe jargonelle pears quartered ; then to every four pounds of fruit add six pounds of loaf-sugar and three pints of water. Put the whole into a preservingpan, and boil for three-quarters of an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then put it into a can or jar until cold ; add three quarts of gooseberry-brandy, and let it stand for six weeks ; pass it through the jelly -bag. This is a very fine liqueur. Norfolk Biffins, Dried. The Norfolk beefing, or biffin, is the name given to a hard, sweet apple well known in Norfolk, which is remarkable for being rosy coloured both inside and out, and which is prepared by being baked gently in the oven, flattened into the form of a round cake, and so preserved. Biffins may afterwards be stewed, like Normandy pippins, or made into pies. They may be purchased ready dried, but if prepared at home should be baked very gently, taken out every now and then to cool, slightly flattened, and then put into the oven again. If great care is not taken they wiQ burst, and so be spoilt. Probable cost, imcooked, 2s. per pound. Norfolk Dumplings. Beat two eggs thoroughly. Add a cupful of milk, a pinch of NOR (458) NOT salt, and as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Have ready a pan of fast-boiling water. Drop the batter into it, in small lumps, and when boiled enough, serve immediately ; if allowed to stand, the dumplings will become heavy. Time to boil, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Norfolk Dumplings (another way). When bread is made at homo, take a little of the dough just ready for the oven, make it up into small balls about the size of an orange, drop them into fast-boding water, and when done enough, drain them, and serve immediately. Send melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with lemon juice, to table with them. The dumpKngs should be torn apart with two forks when they are eaten, or they will be heavy. To ascertain if they are done enough, stick a fork quickly into them ; if it come out clear, they are sufficiently cooked. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient, one pound of dough for about fompeople. Norfolk Punch. Take the rind of sixteen fresh lemons and sixteen Seville oranges, pared so thinly as to be quite free from white. Put them into an earthenware jar, pour over them two quarts of brandy, and let them infuse for forty-eight hours. Strain the brandy, mix with it a syrup made by boiling two pounds of loaf sugar with three quarts of water until quite clear. The syrup must have become cold before it is added to the brandy ; add the strained and filtered juice of the oranges and lemons; mix thoroughly, put the liquor into a perfectly clean spirit-cask, or into a jar ; let it remain for six weeks, when it may be bottled or not, as is most convenient. This punch will improve with keeping : some persons add a pint of new milk before putting it into the cask. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a gallon and a half of punch. Norfolk nice. Pick off the white meat from a dried haddock. Tear it into shreds with two forks, and mix with it the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and an equal quantity of rice boiled as if for curry, and shaken over the fire with a little fresh butter until quite hot. Pile high on a hot dish ; mix the yolks of the eggs with a little grated Parmesan, and strew the mixture over the rice and fish. Put the dish in the oven, or hold a hot iron shovel over it, to brown it slightly, and garnish with fried sippets. Serve as hot as possible. Time, five minutes to colour the rice. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Norfolk's Pudding, Duke of (see Duke of Norfolk's Pudding) ; Norman Haricot of Veal {see Veal, Norman Haricot of). Normandy Pippins. Take half a pound of Normandy pippins. Let them soak for an hour or two in a pint and a half of water in which has been put an inch of whole ginger and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. At the end of that time put them into a stewpan, with the thin rind of a large lemon and two ounces of sugar, and let them simmer gently irntil they are half done, then add other two ounces of sugar. When quite tender, take out the pippins, and place them in a glass dish : strain the gravy, flavomit if wished either with a glass of port or the strained juice of the lemon, pour it over the pippins, and place a small piece of lemon-rind upon each. Normandy pippins are delicious when eaten with Devonshire cream, and the appearance of the dish is improved if a small knob of cream is placed between the apples. Time to stew, about three hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Normandy Pippins, Stewed (another way). Take half a pound of pippins. Soak them as in the last recipe ; or, if time is a consideration, put them into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover them, let them simmer very gently for twenty minutes, then di-ain the water from them, and let them get cold. Put them into a clean saucepan, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind and strained juice of a lemon, a Seville orange, a St. Michael's orange, an inch of stick cinnamon, two cloves, and a glass of sheny. Simmer very gently until the pippins are quite tender but unbroken. Take them out, put them in a glass dish, boil the syrup quickly for ten minutes, and strain it over the fruit. Devonshire cream, or a little ordinary thick cream, is a great improvement to this dish. Serve cold. One or two diops of prepared cochineal wiU improve the colour. Time, about throe hours to stew the pippins. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Northumberland's Pudding, Duke of {see Duke of Northumberland's Pudding) . Norwegian Puddings. Beat a quarter of a p6und of fresh butter to a cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of ground rice, one oimce of fine flour, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, half a tea-spoonful of bakingpowder, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Add two well- whisked eggs, and beat all briskly together for four or five minutes. Butter some cups, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn out the puddings when done enough, put them on a dish, and pour over them half a pint of good wine sauce, boding hot. Sprinkle some powdered sugar over them, and serve at once. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for tliree or foiu- persons. Nottingham Pudding. Take half a dozen large apples of uniform size. Pare and core without breaking them, and fill the centre of each with a little butter, some moist sugar, and grated nutmeg. Put them side by side in a well-buttered pie-dish, and cover them with a light batter made as follows : Mix six tablespoonfuls of flour very smoothly with a little cold water, add three weU-beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and milk sufficient to make the batter of the consistence of thick cream. This will be about three-quarters of a pint. Bake the iJOT (459 ) NOU pudding in a moderate oyen. The batter will be better if made an hour or two before it is wanted. Time to bake, a hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Nottingham Pudding (another way). See Apple Pudding, Nottingham. Nougat. Nougat is a sort of paste made of sugar, almonds, pistachio nuts, or filberts, and used by confectioners for making pretty sweet dishes. A little practice is necessary before it can be well made. The process is as follows : -Blanch one pound of Jordan ahnonds, dry them well in a soft cloth, cut them into quarters, put them on a baking sheet in a cool oven, and let them remain until quite hot through and lightly browned. When they are neai'ly ready, put half a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan, without any water, move it about with a wooden spoon. When it is melted and begins to bubble, stir in the hot almonds gently, so as not to break them. Have ready the mould which is to be used, slightly but thoroughly oiled, and spread the paste all over it about a quarter of an inch thick. This is the difficult part of the operation, as the nougat hardens very quickly. The pan in which it is should bo kept in a warm place, to prevent it stiffening before the mould is finished. It is a good plan to spread out a piece for the bottom of the mould first, and put that in its place, then pieces for the sides. Care must be taken, however, to make these pieces stick closely together. A cut lemon dipped in oil is a great assistance in spreading the paste. When the nougat is firmly set, turn it out carefully, and serve it on a stand filled with whipped cream, or as required. Time to boil the sugar, till it is well melted. Probable cost, 2s. for a good-sized mould. Nougat, Almond {see Almond Nougat). Nougats (a la Fran9aise). For dessert. Prepare the nougat as in the last recipe. If preferred, pistachio kernels may be used iastead of almonds, and the sugar may be coloured with cochineal, and flavoured with vanilla. When the paste is ready, spread it out on an oiled slab to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, strew colomred sugar or nonpareil comfits on the surface, mark it into oblong shapes, and cut it before, it is cold. It should be stored in a tin box in a dry place until wanted for use, and should be served, piled up prettily, on a napkin. Nougats, SmaU. Nougats intended for small moulds shoidd be made in the same way as for large ones, excepting that the almonds should be finely shred instead of being quartered. When the paste is ready, put it into the small oiled moulds, and take care that it is pressed into all the comers. It is well for three or four persons to be engaged at once in filling the moulds, that they may be done as expeditiously as possible, and so be all of one colour, as the nougat gets darker with being melted. Turn the shapes out when set, fill them with whipped cream, and serve, neatly arranged, on a folded napkin. Probable cost, Jordan almonds, 2s. 6d. per pound ; sweet almonds. Is. Nouilles. Nouilles are made of delicate pastry, cut up into ribands and various shapes, and used as a substitute for vermicelli and macaroni, either in making fritters or puddings, or for serving with cheese, or in soup. They are made as follows : Take haK a pound of fine flour, put it on the pastry-board, make a hole in the centre, and in this put two eggs. Add a pinch of salt, half an ounce of butter, and a tea- spoonful of cold water, and mix aU together into a very firm, smooth paste. Leave it a little while to dry, then roU it out as thin as possible, and cut it into thin bands about an inch and a quarter in width. Dredge a little flour upon these, and lay four or five of them one above another, then cut them through into thin shreds, something Like vermicelli ; shake them well, to prevent their sticking together, and spread them out to dry. NouiUes cannot be made without a straight rolhng-pin and smooth pastry-board. When wanted for use, drop them gradually into boiling water, stirring gently with a wooden spoon to keep them from getting lumpy. Let them boil from aix to twenty minutes, then take them up with a strainer, drain them well, and spread them out on a coarse cloth. Besides thread-like nouilles, a few may be made the size and shape of scarlet-runner beans, or small birds' eggs, or they may be cut broad like macaroni. If thoroughly dried, they will keep any length of time stored in tin canisters. Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. Nouilles, Boiled in Milk. Take threequarters of a pound of freshly-made nouilles cut very fine and dried. Dissolve a httle butter in a stewpan, put in the nouilles, and shake the pan over the fire until they are well browned. Pour over them as much good milk as will cover them well, and let them simmer gently until they are quite soft. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar and three well-beaten eggs, steam a few minutes longer, and serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the nouilles, until soft, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Nouilles, Buttered. Throw the nouilles into boiling water, and let them boil for three minutes. Take them up with a strainer, put them on a hot dish ; melt some fresh butter in a stewpan ; sprinkle a large handful of breadcrumbs in it, and let them remain imtil they are lightly browned, then put them upon the nouilles. Clarify a little more butter, if the first portion was di-ied up in browning the crmnbs, and pom- it over the dish ; serve very hot. Time, ten minutes to boil the nouilles. Noiiilles, Fritters of (delicious eaten cold) . Make a pound of flour into nouilles pastry, as already directed {see Nouilles). Cut it into thin strips; boil a pint and a half of cream or new milk in a saucepan. Dissolve in it six ounces of fresh butter, add a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar which has been well rubbed upon the lind of a large fresh lemon, and a pinch of salt. Drop the pastry into the WOtJ ( 460 NOY boiling liquid, and simmer gently for threequarters of an hour, until it has become a stiff paste. Take it from the fire, and when it is cool stir briskly in with it the weU-beaten yolks of six eggs. Spread it out on a large buttered baking-tin, about a quarter of an iuch thick, and bake in a moderate oven ; when brightly colomed, take it out, divide it in halves, put one haK upon a large flat dish, spread some jam thickly over, place the other half upon it, pressing it lightly with the fingers, and when quite cold, stamp it in small shapes with an ordinary pastry-cutter. Servo neatly arranged on a napkin. These cakes should bo prepared the day they are wanted for use, as they do not improve with keepiug. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd., if simmered iu milk. Sufficient for eight or ten persoriis. Wouilles, Genoises de (see Genoises de NouiUos). Noililles Pudding. Make some nouiUes pastiy as before directed. Cut and dry the nouilles, throw them into boiling water, and let them siuuner until soft. Take them up with a strainer, and stir into them, while hot, two ounces of fresh butter; beat three ounces of butter to a cream, mix with it the well-whisked yolks of thi-ee eggs, and add this to the rest. Butter a pudding mould rather thickly, cover the inside with bread raspings ; whisk the whites of the eggs to a fii-m froth. Gently stir them into the pudding, put it into the mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an horn-. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. NouiUes, Rolled (a German recipe). Roll out some nouilles pastry as thin as possible, then, instead of cutting it into threads as before directed {see Nouilles), cut it into roimds about the size of a crown-piece, sprinkle a little finely-minc?d ham, mixed with parsley and any seasoning that may be wished, upon each, and roll it up. Put the rolls in a stewpan, pour over them a little broth, and let them simmer very gently for an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Nouilles, Soup of. Make half a pound of flour into nouilles as directed. Cut it into strips, and spread it on a sheet of paper in a warm place to dry. Take three pints of any nicely seasoned soup ; put it on the fire, and when it is boiling, drop the nouiUes gradually in with one hand, and with the other stir them gently with a wooden spoon, to keep thorn from getting into lumps. They will swell considerably in the liquid. Serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the nouilles, ten minutes. Probable cost of nouilles, 3d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Nouilles Turnovers. NouUles tun overs are slightly similar to nouilles roU Make the pastry rather softer than usual t adding a little water, roll it out very thin, ci into pieces the shape of an egg, about tw inches across, and cover half the snrface of eac. with a little fruit finely-minced, sweetened, an( flavoiu'ed, and mixed with a few bread-crumbs Turn the other halves over, fasten the edgei securely, put the turnovers into a little boibng water, and lot them simmer gently untU done enough. Drain them well, and serve them on a hot dish with powdered sugar sprinkled thickly over them. Time to simmer, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Nouilles, with Ham. Prepare some nouilles paste as directed in the preceding recipe. Simmer for six minutes, drain, and dry them; put them into a saucepan, with a pint and a half of boiling gra y, one ounce of fresh butter, three ounces of boiled ham (fat and lean together cut into dice), and two ounces of grated Pannesan, or, if preferred, any other cheese which is not strong in flavour. Mix lightly with a wooden spoon, taking care not to break the nouilles, add pepper and salt if required, and serve in a hot vegetable dish, accompanied by hot buttered toast, and a little good mustard. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. NouiUes with Parmesan, or au Gratin. Make half a pound of flour into nouilles paste, as directed in the last recipe. Cut it into strips, and boU these for ten minutes in three pints of water, slightly salted. Take them out, drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with a pint of milk or gravy, an ounce of butter, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Simmer gently imtil all the liquid has been absorbed, then add another quarter of a pint of either cream or gravy, a quarter of a pound of grated Pai-mesan, and another ounce of butter ; shake the pan over the fire, untH the cheese is melted. Pile the mixture high in a buttered dish, sprinkle over it one ounce of grated Parmesan, a table- spoonful of finely-grated bread-cri and the yolk of a hard-boiled eg through a sieve and powdered. Place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, or hold a red-hot iron shovel over it until it is lightly coloured, and serve as hot as possible. Time, altogether, an hour- and a quarter. Probable cost. Is. 6d,. Sufficient for six or eight persons. November, Fifth of. Gingerbread for the {see Gingerbread Parkin). Noyeau. Noyeau is a liqueur prepared in the island of Martinique, in the West Indies, from a berry which grows there. It requires to be used with great care, as it is not wholesome. Imitations of it are very common, as the real article is rare and expensive. Two or three recipes are here given. Noyeau, Imitation. This is a liqueur with an agreeable nutty taste. It should only be partaken of, however, in small quantities in 3 of the considerable propoiiion of i which it contains. Take three ruised bitter almonds, one quart of , pound of sugar dissolved in threea pint of water. Macerate for ten g the vessel at frequent intervals ; f that time let it rest for a few days, ihe clear Hquid. Apricots or peachi the shells bruised, may be subhe almonds. NOY (461 ) NUN Noyeau (another way for immediate use). G-dther quarter of a pound of young peach leaves on a dry, sunny day. Put them into a jar, and poiu- over them two pints of good brandy or whisky, and leave them to infuse for a couple of days. Add a syrup made by dissolving a pound of sugar in a pint of water. Let the noyeau remain a few hours longer, then filter it carefully, and it is ready for use. Probable cost, uncertain, peach leaves being seldom sold. Sufficient for three pints and a half of noyeau. Noyeau (another way). Blanch and pound three oimces of peach, apricot, or nectarine kernels. Put them into a jar, pour over them a quart of French brandy, and leave them in a warm place for three days, shaking them frequently; add a pound of powdered and sifted sugar-candy, and let the liquid stand a few hours longer; strain, and bottle for use. If preferred, one ounce of French prunes with their kernels can be substituted for a third of the apricot kernels, or a httle thin lemon-rind may be added. This is a very agreeable liqueur, but, like many other preparations of the same sort, it is not particularly wholesome. Probable cost, according to the price of the spirit. Sufficient for a quart of noyeau. Noyeau (made with honey). Blanch and pound three ounces of bitter and one of sweet almonds. Put them into a jar, pour over them a quart of pure brandy or wlusky, and leave them to infuse for three days, shaking them every now and then. Strain the liquid carefully through filtering-paper, and add one pound of loaf sugar dissolved in half a pint of boiling water, and two table-spoonfuls of fine honey. Bottle for use. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for three pints of noyean. Noyeau (to be stored six months before being used). Blanch and pound three ounces of bitter almonds and two ounces of sweet almonds to a smooth paste. Put them into a jar, and pour over them one quart of English gin. Add the thin rind of a small lemon if approved, and let the jar stand in a warm place for three days, and shake it well every day. At the end of that time dissolve one pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of boiling water, add the syrup to the contents of the jar, and leave it forty-eight hours longer, shaking it every now and then. Strain the liquid carefully, put it into bottles, and cork it closely. The liqueiuwill improve with keeping. The best way to strain the noyeau is to put four or five thin pieces of wood inside a funnel, then cover these with doubled white blotting-paper, and pour in the liquid. Patience will be required, as syrup does not quickly filtrate. French brandy may with advantage be substituted for the gin. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the gin. Sufficient for three pints. Noyeau Cream. Dissolve one ounce of best Russian isinglass in half a pint of water, add four ounces of loaf sugar, the strained juice of a small lemon, and one pint of thick cream, together with a little noyeau. The quantity must be regulated by the strength of tho noyeau, as well as by taste. Pour the liquid into a well-oiled mould, and put it in a cool, dry place to set. Turn it out carefully before serviag. Time, half an houi- to dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, 38., exclusive of the noyeau. Sufficient for a quart mould. Noyeau Ice Creams. Sweeten half a pint of thick cream with two ounces of sugar. Add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and a glass of noyeau. Mix thoroughly, and freeze in the usual way. Time, half an hour to freeze the mixture. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for a pint of ice cream. Noyeau Jelly. Dissolve one ounce of best Russian isinglass in half a pint of water. Add one pound of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup in half a pint of water, the strained juice of a lemon, and a glass of noyeau. Strain the jelly natil it is clear, pour it into a damp mould, and ' put it into a cool place to set. Turn it out on a glass dish just before it is wanted. Time to clarify the isinglass, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the noyeau. Is. 8d. Sufficient for one pint and a half of jelly. Noyeau Jelly with Almonds. Prepare one pint and a half of jelly according to the directions given in the last recipe. Blanch two ounces of almonds, cut them into thin shreds, and throw them into cold water. When the jelly is quite clear, put a little of it at the bottom of a damp mould. Let it set, then sprinkle haK a tea-spoonful of the almonds upon it, and pour a Httle more jelly on. Repeat until the mould is full. Put the mould in a cool place, and turn the jelly out when quite stiff. A little whipped cream may be put round it in the dish. Time, half an hour to clarify the isinglass. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the. noyeau. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Nuns' BaUs. Roll half a pound of good puif -paste into a long piece about a quarter of an inch thick. Stamp it out in roimds the size of a five-shilling piece, lay upon half of these a tea-spoonful of jam, and cover them over with the other halves. Press the edges securely. Fry the balls in hot butter until they are lightly browned. Drain the fat well from them, and serve them, piled on a hot napkin, with pounded and sifted sugar thickly strewn over them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nuns' Balls (another way) . Prepare the pastry as in the last recipe, but instead of putting jam upon the rounds, put a tea-spoonful of a mixture prepared as follows : Grate very finely a quarter of a pound of good cheese. Beat it well in a mortar, and mix with it two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, the yolks of three eggs well-beaten, and a little salt and cayenne. Fasten the edges securely, and fry in hot butter until lightly browned. Drain thoroughly from the fat, and serve iiot, piled high on a napkin. Time, ten minutes, to fry the balls. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nuns' Biscuits. Take four ounces of sweet almonds, and five or six bitter cnes. NUN ( 462 ) OAT Blanch them, and pound thom in a mortar to a smooth paste, and keep dropping a little orange-flower water on them to prevent them oiling. Rub the yeRow rind of two large fre h lemons upon half a pound of loaf sugar, carush it to powder, sift it weU, and mix it with the almonds; add two ounces of dried flour, a tahle-spoonful of finely-minced candied citron, the yolks of six eggs well beaten, and last of all the whites whisked to a firm froth. Put a spoonful or two of the mixture into some small patty-pans well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven. When they are brightly browned, turn thom out of the pans, put them upon baking-tins, and place them again in the oven to harden. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Nuns' Cako. Beat eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream ; add half a pound of fine flour, a small nutmeg grated, eight ounces of powdered sugar, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and a table-spoonful of cold water. Mix thoroughly, then stir in the whites of two of the eggs whisked to a solid froth. Work all briskly together for some minutes. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and, being careful to leave room for it to rise, bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Nuremberg Egg. Put an egg in boiling water, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Take it out, remove the shell, and dip it in batter. Fry it in hot butter until it is browned all over, then dip it in again, and repeat this until the ball is sufficiently large. Serve on a hot dish, and pour wine-sauce over it. Time, according to size. Nuremberg Gingerbread. Beat four eggs thoroughly ; mix with them half a nutmeg grated, six poimded cloves, two ounces each of candied lemon and citron finely minced, and eight ovmces of powdered sugar. Stir these briskly for ten minutes ; then add very gradually half a pound of dried flour, a small pinch of salt, and half a quarter of an ounce of carbonate of soda dissolved in a little warm milk. When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, put with them eight ounces of sweet almonds blanched and sliced. Spread the mixture a quarter of an inch thick on waferpaper, cut it into fingers, place these on buttered tins, and bake in a very moderate oven. Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Nut Cakes, Hazel {see Hazel-nut Cakes). Nutmegs are the seed of a small tree belonging to the natural order Myristicaceae. In Great Britain about 2,000 lbs. are consumed aunually. Pereira mentions that to prevent the attacks of an insect known as the nutmeg insect, the nuts are frequently limed. For the English market, however, the brown or unlimed nutmegs are preferred. " The Dutch lime them by dipping them into a thick mixture of lime and water ; but this process is considered to injure their- flavour. Others lime them by rubbing thom with recently-prepared well-sifted lime. This process is sometimes practised in London." Nutmeg, Tinctlire of. Grate three ounces of nutmeg ; put the powder into a quart bottle, and fill it up with good brandy or spirits of wine. Cork it, and shake it well every day for a fortnight, then pour off the liquid, leaving the sediment behind. Put the tincture into small bottles, cork these closely, and store for use. Probable cost, according to the quality of the spirit. Sufficient, three drops to flavour half a pint of liquid. Nutritive Drink. Beat three eggs thoroughly ; add a pint of cold water, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, two glasses of sherry, and the strained juice of a fi-esh lemon. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient to fill two tumblers. Nutritive Properties of Pood {se-e Properties of Food, &c.). Nuts, American Dough {see Dough Nuts, American). Oat-cake. Oat-cakes, or oatmeal cakes, are very common in the North of England. They are eaten with butter or cheese, either toasted or plain. When first made they are quite soft, but after they have been dried before the fire for a few minutes they become crisp and hard. When made in perfection they are as thin as wafers, and are certainly very good eating, though not of a very satisfying nature. They are baked on a bakestone, or backstone, which is a kind of thick fryingpan, made of iron or stone. Oat-cake. Mix two or three table-spoonfuls of oatmeal with a pinch of salt and a little cold water. Knead it well round and round with the hands for some minutes, then spread it on a pastry-board as thin as possible, and strew meal under and over it. Move it by means of a baking spittle to the bakestone, and bake it on both sides over a clear fire. It is well to mix sufficient oatmeal and water for one cake at a time, as the batter soon dries. Time, two or three minutes to bake the cakes. Probable cost, 3d. per dozen. Oat-cake, Lancashire. In Lancashire oat- cakes are partially made either with buttermilk or with meal which has been mixed and left for a few days to turn sour. They are baked very much in the same way as in the preceding recipe. It is necessary, however, to see these cakes made by some one accustomed to the work before attempting their manufactirre. Oat-cake, made with Yeast. Put a quart of water into a bowl, and mix with it one oirnce of dissolved German yeast. Sprinkle three and a half pounds of fine oatmeal into it, stirring it briskly all the time, and when the mixture is smooth and thick, place the bowl in a warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it half an hour to rise. Stir it well, spread it out very thin, sprinkle a little oatmeal under and over it, and throw it upon the bakestone, which should be placed over a bright fire ; when lightly OAT (463) OIL browned on ono side, turn it on the other. The Oxikes may either he eaten soft, or hung to crisp upon a cord which has been stretched across the kitchen. WTiile the cakes are baking, the dust of the oatmeal should be swept off with a small brush. Time to bake, two minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per dozen. Oatmeal. Oats, in the form of oatmeal, are rich in flesh-formers and heat-givers, and serve as a nutritious and excellent diet when the occupation is not sedentary. The outer husk of oats, unlike wheat, is poor in albumenoid matters, so that oatmeal is better than the whole oat as food. In making oatmeal, one quarter of oats (328 lbs.) yields 188 lbs. of meal and 74 lbs. of husks, the rest being water. Oatmeal is remarkable for its large amount of fat. 100 parts contain : Water 13-6 Albumenoid Matters . . . 17-0 Starch 39-7 Sugar 5-4 Gum 30 Fat 5-7 Fibre 12-6 Mineral Matter . .3-0 Or, Water 13-6 Flesh and Forc? Producers . . 17-0 Force Producers .... 66-4 Mineral Matters . . . .3-0 "One pound of oatmeal, when digested and oxidised in the body, is capable of producing a force equal to 2,439 tons raised one foot high. The maximum of work which it will enable a man to perform is 488 tons raised one foot high. One pound of oatmeal can produce at the maximum 2 ozs. of dry muscle or flesh." "Oatmeal," Pcreira remarks, " is an important and valuable article of food. With the exception of maize or Indian com, it is richer in. oily or fatty matter than any other of the cultivated cereal grains ; and its proportion of protein compounds exceeds that of the finest English wheaten flour; so that, both in respect to its heat and fat making and its flesh and blood making principles, it holds a high rank." There are several kinds of oatmeal. One is known as round-oatmeal: it consists of the oats divested of the husk and gi'ound into a verj' coarse powder. Another is Itobinson's Patent Groats, which consist of the finest part of the oat-flour, aU husk, and the outer and harder part of the grain being removed. "Round oatmeal" varies a good deal in quality : the better sorts have the outer surface of the oats of which they are composed rubbed off by attrition between two stones. Oatmeal is frequently adulterated with barley-meal, the difference in price between the two being a great inducement to dishonest traders. Barley-meal costs only about one half the price of oatmeal. Other substances used for adulterating oatmeal are whiting, plaster of paris, and burnt bones. In consequence of a peculiar quality of the gluten which the oat contains, oatmeal does not admit of being baked into a light fermented bread. It has been alleged against oatmeal, that when it is employed as the sole food, without milk or animal diet, it causes heat and irritabihty of the skin, aggravates skin diseases, and sometimes gives rise to boils. Dr. Pereira, however, states that this charge has been made without sufficient grounds. At aU events, it is very rarely that circumstances render necessary for any length of time such an exclusive consumption of oatmeal. Oatmeal Bannocks. Rub half an ounce of fresh butter into two and a half pounds of Scotch oatmeal, and stir briskly in as much lukewarm water as wiU make it into a stiff paste. Sprinkle some oatmeal on the pastryboard, and spread the mixture out into a round cake, about half an inch thick and four inches in diameter. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Probable cost. Is. Oatmeal Gruel. Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal very smoothly with a little cold water. Pour upon it a pint of boihng water, stir it well, then let it stand for a few minutes to settle. Pour it back very gently into the saucepan, so as to leave undisturbed the sediment at the bottom of the gruel. Let it simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming it carefully. It maybe sweetened and flavoured vsdth wine and spice, or be mixed with a little beer and grated ginger, or, if preferred, a little salt only may be put in. Dry toast or biscuits may be served with it. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer. Probable cost, Id. Sufficient for one person. Oatmeal Gruel (another way) . See Gruel, Oatmeal. Oatmeal Hasty Pudding Mix a tablespoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of oatmeal, and a pinch of salt smoothly with four tablespoonfuls of cold milk. Stir these gradually into a pint of boding milk, and beat the mixture with a fork until it is quite smooth and free from lumps. Let it boU quickly for four or five minutes, pour it on small plates, and serve hot. Send cream and sugar, or treacle, to table in a tureen. When the Scotch or coarse oatmeal is used, it should be soaked all night in a little cold water, then added gradually to the boiling milk, and beaten as above. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. Oatmeal Hasty Pudding (another way). See Hasty Pudding, Oatmeal. Oatmeal Porridge. Put some water in a saucepan on the fire. Let it boil quickly, then throw in a pinch of salt. Sprinkle some oatmeal into the boiling water with the left hand, and at the same time beat it briskly with a fork held in the right to keep it from getting into lumps. When the porridge is sufficiently thick, let it boU for three or four minutes, then pour it upon small plates, and serve immediately. Treacle, cream, milk, sugar, or butter may be eaten with it. The quantity of oatmeal will depend upon the taste of those who are to eat the porridge. Some people like it very thick, and others quite thin. Probable cost, Id. per plateful. Oil. Under this name, as weU as those of butter, fat, lard, suet, and grease, we have a OLD (464) OLI substance largely made use of as food. The foUowing taWe, for which we are indebted to the learned compiler of the Catalogue of the Food Collection now at Bethnal Green Museum, shows the quantities of oil or fat in 100 lbs. of the more common articles of food : Vegetable Food. Potatoes 0-2 Wheat Flour 1-2 Barley Meal 0-3 Oatmeal 57 Indian Meal , . . . . 7'7 Rye 1-0 Peas 2-0 Rice 0-7 Beans 2-0 Cocoa 50-0 Lentils 2-0 Buckwheat 10 Tea 40 Coffee 12-0 Animal Food. Milk 23-5 Pork 500 Veal 160 Beef 300 Mutton 40-0 Fish 7-0 Cheese 25-0 Old Currant Sauce, for SuckingPig, Venison, &C. Boil two ounces of picked and clean currants and three cloves in a quarter of a pint of water for five minutes ; add an oiince of fresh butter, a quarter of a pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and two glasses of port. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it boils, then take out the cloves, and serve immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Olio. An oho is a Spanish dish, and consists of three or four different kinds of meat and vegetables stewed and served together. The foUowing is a simple recipe : Truss a chicken for boiling, brown it lightly in a httle hot butter, then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a pound and a half of mutton, a pound and a half of veal, and a pound of good rump-steak, aU sUghtly browned. Add a pound of streaky bacon, and pour in as much boiling water as will cover the whole. Simmer gently for an hour, then add half a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a dozen young onions, half a dozen carrots and turnips, and a pint of green peas, if they are in season, and boil gently until the vegetables are cooked enough. Salt and pepper must be added as required, and a small clove of garlic, if the flavour is liked. It is better to take out the bacon before the meat is served. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Olio of Vegetables. Slice half a dozen carrots, turnips, and onions, and throw them into boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, then put with them two heads of cabbage cut into halves, and two pounds of potatoes, and boil aU together until they are soft. Drain them from the water, and mince them finely. IMix with them half a pound of spinach, a httle salt and pepper, an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew the vegetables gently for half an hour. Before serving, thicken them by stirring in with them a piece of butter roUed in flour. The vegetables may be varied according to the season. Green peas, lettuces, cucumber, spring onions, spinach, &c., may be cooked in the same way. Probable cost, according to the vegetables used. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Olive Oil. The principal oU used as food, obtained from the vegetable kingdom, is that of the ohve. " Provence oil, the produce of Aix, is the most esteemed. Florence oil is the virgin oil expressed from the ripe fruit soon after being gathered ; it is imported in flasks surrounded by a kind of network, formed by the leaves of a monocotyledonous plant, and packed in half chests ; it is that used at table under the name of salad oil." Olive Pie, Beef. Make a good forcemeat of equal parts of suet and finely-grated bread-crumbs, with plenty of finely-minced parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and the well -beaten yolk of an egg. Cut thin sUces four inches long and two wide from the inside of a fillet of beef. Spread a layer of the forcemeat upon each slice, and roll it up securely. Place the roUs side by side in a deep pie-dish, and pile them high in the centre. Pour haK a pint of gravy over them, line the edges of the dish with good crust, place a cover of the same on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. If it is wished the forcemeat can be omitted, and a small piece of fat put inside the rolls instead ; the meat will then require seasoning with pepper and salt. A table- spoonful of ketchup and a table-spoonful of wine will improve the gravy. Time, about an hour and a quarter to bake the pie. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Olive Pie, Veal. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff-paste. Cut two pounds of the fillet of veal into thin sUces a quarter of an inch thick, four inches long, and two wide. Make a forcemeat with four ounces of minced veal, four ounces of finely-shred suet, four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, four drachms of salt, two drachms of pepper, two drachms of powdered mace, two drachms of grated lemon-rind, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season the shoes of veal with a httle pepper and salt, place a slice of fat bacon upon each, and a httle of the forcemeat, and roll them up neatly and securely. Make the forcemeat which remains into balls. Place these amongst the oUves in a pie-dish, pour half a pint of nicely-seasoned gravy over them, line the edges of the dish with a good crust, place a cover of the same over the top, brush the pie with beaten egg, and bake in a good oven. The addition of a tablespoonful of lemon- juice and a glass of sherry, or a few sHced mushrooms, would greatly improve the gravy. This pie is good either cold or hot. Time, an hour and a half to bake. OLI (465) OLL Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Olive Sauce, for Ducks, Fowls, Beefsteaks, &C. Take four ounces of fine olives. Remove the stones by cutting the fruit round and round in ribbons, in the same way that apples are pared. By this means they will be the same shape when done that they were at first. Throw them into boiling water for three or four minutes, then drain them, and put them into cold water to soak until the salt taste is extracted. Drain them, and simmer them gently in three-quarters of a pint of good brown gravy. Serve very hot. A cut lemon should be sent to table with this sauce, so that a little of the juice may be squeezed in if the addition is approved. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Oliver's Biscuits- Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir over a gentle fire until the butter is melted. Add a pinch of salt and a dessert-spoonful of yeast, then mix in very smoothly three-quarters of a pound of fine flour. Knead the mixture well, wrap it in a warmed cloth, put it into a bowl, and place it on a warm hearth for a quarter of an hour. Poll it out eight or nine times, leaving it at last a quarter of an inch thick. Stamp it into biscuits, with an ordinary cutter, prick these well with a fork, and bake them upon tins, in a moderate oven, until the biscuits are lightly browned, say for about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Olives. Olives are the fruit of the olivetree, and are imported to this country from France, Spain, and Italy. The Italian olives are the most highly-esteemed. They are used for ' dessert, or handed round between the courses as a whet to the appetite, and also to clear the Olives (a la Reine). Boil two pounds of mealy potatoes, and mix them very smoothly with six ounces of fine flour and two ounces of fresh butter. Roll the paste out, and stamp it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick and four inches in diameter. Put a small piece of cold roasted beef or veal in the middle of each round, moisten the edges with a little cold water, and draw the paste up into a ball. Fry the olives in hot fat until they are lightly browned all over, drain the fat from them, and serve on a hot dish. Send good brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time, about five minutes to fry the olives. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Olives, Beef. Cut a couple of pounds of rump-steak into very thin sHces, about foiir inches long and two inches broad. Have ready a nice forcemeat made of bread-crumbs, suet, parsley, herbs, egg, and plenty of pepper and salt. Put a little forcemeat on each piece of steak, roU it up tightly, fasten it with a small skewer or piece of string, dip the roUs into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are slightly browned. Drain the fat away, and stew them for about half an hour in a pint or rather less of stock. If the stock is very poor, a quarter of a pound of gravy beef will be required. Just before serving, thicken the gravy with a little flour, and add some ketchup, or three dessert-spoonfuls of sherry or port. Time, five minutes to fry. Sufficient for six persons. Cost, 3s. Olives, Olives. Beef (another way). See Beef palate. Choose them green and firm, and if they are too salt let them soak for a little while in cold water. Olives should never be allowed to remain uncovered in the bottle, or their appearance will be spoilt. Olives, Duck with {?ee Duck with Olives). Olives, Preserving of. OHves intended for preservation are gathered before they are ripe. The object of piclding them is to remove their bitterness and preserve them green by impregnating them with brine. To effect this various plans are adopted. The fruit being gathered is placed in a lye composed of one part of quicklime to six of ashes of young wood sifted. It is left for half a day, and is then pat into fresh water, which is renewed every twenty -four hours. From this the fruit is transferred to a brine of common salt dissolved in water, to which some aromatic herbs have been added. Olives will in this manner keep good for twelve months. Olives, Veal. Proceed as for beef olives, substituting veal for beef. Place a thin slice of fat bacon or ham, of the same size and shape as the veal made with olives, roU them up securely, brush them over with egg, dip them in breadcrumbs, roast them on a lark-spit, and serve on a hot dish with brown gravy and mushrooms poured over them. Instead of being roasted, they may be stewed in a pint of veal stock, thickened with butter and flour, and garnished with beet-root or cucumber. Time, three-quarters of an hour to roast; one hour to stew. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Olla Podrida. This is a Spanish national dish, consisting of several kinds of meat cut into small pieces and stewed with a variety of OME ( 466 ) OME vegetables. It is much in favour with the poor, and is often kept so long that its odour and flavour both become highly oifensive, hence its name olla podrida signifying putrid mess {see also Olio). OmGlet. ? An omelet is a simple, wholesome, inexpensive dish, but yet one in the prepai-ation of which cooks frequently fail, owing to ignorance of three or four important detaib. The flavouring may be varied indefinitely, but the process is always the same. In making an omelet care should be taken, first, that the frying-pan is quite dry and hot. The best way to ensure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, let it boil, then pour it away, wipe the pan out with a cloth, and put in fresh fat. Second, the fat in which the omelet is to be fried shoiild be very gently heated. Unless this is done, the fat will be browned, and the colour of the omelet will be spoilt. Third, the number of eggs should not be large. It is better to make two or three small omelets than one very large one. The best omelets are made with no more than six eggs. Fourth, the eggs are to be'very slightly beaten, that is, for a few seconds only, long enough to mix them and no more. If thoroughly whisked, the omelet wiU be watery. Fifth, a very small quantity only of salt should be put in. Salt keeps the eggs from rising. If attention be paid to these particulars, a pleasant and useful preparation will be, the result. Recipes for the following omelets, in addition to those on this and the following page, will be found under their respective headings : Almond Rum Bacon or Ham Salmon Cheese Savoury Ham Shalot Jam Sorrel Kidney Strawberry Oysters Sweet Potato Sweet-herb Omelet (a la Celestine). Mix two eggs very smoothly with two ounces of dried flour. Add a small pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and half a pint of good milk. Dissolve an oimce of butter in a hot frying-pan, pour in two table-spoonfuls of the batter, and let it spread aU over the pan. \Vhen firm, put a tea- spoonful of good jam and a dessert-spoonful of rich custard in the middle of the omelet, fold it over, and roll it round and round. Arrange the omelets neatly on a hot dish, sift a Httle powdered sugar over them, and serve immediately. These omelets are sometimes made with beaten egg and sugar only. Time, three or four minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four Omelet (aux fines herbes). Break six eggs into a basin. Beat them lightly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt and pepper, a heaped tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of minced onions, cloves, or shalots. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter into a hot frying-pan, over a gentle fire. Pour in the mixture, and proceed as already described. Omelets may be extensively varied. A little minced ham, or cooked vegetables, or fish sauce, or jam, may be put in either with the eggs or placed in their centre when they are partially cooked, and the omelet should tJien be named after the peculiar flavouring. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Omelet, Cooking an. "Where is the man or woman cook," remarks M. Soyer, "but say they know how to make an omelet, and that to perfection ? But this is rarely the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that no one could cook a ' fraise,' as it was then called, for the great duke but herself. The gi'eat point is, if in an ii-on pan, it should be very clean and free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire with a little fat, and let it get quite hot, or untn the fat bums; remove it, and wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will make the omelet to perfection." Omelet, Indian. Break six eggs into a basin. Beat them slightly, then flavour them vsdth a table-spoonful of young mint-leaves, finely-minced, and half a table-spoonful of either chopped onions, cloves, or leeks. Add haK a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and a table-spoonful of cream. Fry the omelet in the usual way, being careful to keep it well together, so that it may be as thick as possible. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three persons. Omelet, Onion, Cut a large Spanish onion into dice, and fry these in a little hot butter until they are tender without being browned. Drain them from the fat, and mix with them half a dozen eggs slightly beaten. Add a pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, and a small portion of grated nutmeg, and frj' the omelet according to the directions already given. White sauce may be served with this dish. Time, five or six minutes to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three persons. Omelet-pan {see illustration accompanying the article. Bacon or Ham Omelet) . Omelet, Plain. The following recipe is by the often-quoted M. Soyer: "Break four eggs into a basin, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spooiLful of pepper, and beat them well up with a fork. Put into the frying-pan an ounce and a half of butter, lard, or oil; place it on the fire, and when hot pour in the eggs, and keep on mixing them quickly with -a spoon till they are delicately set ; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying hold by the handle, and raising it slantwise, which will give an elongated form to the omelet ; turn in the edges, let it rest a moment to set, turn it over on a dish, and serve. It ought to be of a rich yellow colour, done to a nicety, and as light and delicate as possible. Two table-spoonfuls of milk, and one ounce of the crumb of bread, cut into thin slices, may be added." Omelet, Potatoes. Mash two ounces of mealy potatoes, and mix with them four OME (467 ) ONI fresh eggs, lightly beaten, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, half a small nutmeg, grated, the strained juice of a large lemon, half a pint of new milk, and two ounces of fresh butter. Beat the mixtm-e thoroughly for ten minutes, then fry it over a gentle fire in the usual way. Sift powdered sugar over before serving. Time, about eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. Omelet Souffle. An omelet souffle should be served in the same dish in which it is baked, and should be sent to table with thc greatest expedition after it is taken out of the oven, as it falls and grows heavy very quickly. Break half a dozen fresh eggs into separate bowls. Whisk four of the yolks, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of dry flour, three tablespoonfuls of finely powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any flavouring that may be jjreferred, such as grated nutmeg, lemon or orange rind, vanilla, &c. Butter the soufflepan, to keep the omelet from sticking to it, whisk the whites of the six eggs to a firm froth, mix them lightly with the yolks, pour the mixture into the pan, and bake in a quick oven. When it is well risen and brightly browned on the top, the omelet is done enough. Sift a little sugar over it very expeditiously, and serve. Some cooks put a hot flannel round the pan to prevent its cooling on the way to the diningroom. Time to bake a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three Omelet Souffle, Moulded. Take four fresh eggs, and break the yolks and whites into separate basins. Beat the yolks well, and mix with them two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, three macaroons finely-crumbled, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced candied-peel, and a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot. When these ingredients are thoroughly and smoothly mixed, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pour the mixture into a weU-buttered, simply-marked mould, which should be so large that the omelet will no more than half fill it, and bake in a moderate oven. When the souffle is set and lightly browned it is done enough. Turn it out, sift powdered sugar over it, and serve as expeditiously as possible. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Omelet, with Cheese. Prepare the eggs as for a plain omelet. Mix with them two ounces of finely-grated Parmesan cheese, a small pinch of salt, and two pinches of pepper. Fry the omelet in the usual way, and before folding it over strew an ounce of gruyere cheese finely -minced upon it. Fold, and serve immediately. Time, four or five minutes to fry. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Omelet, with Cheese, Baked. Beat two eggs lightly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, three table-spoonfuls of new milk or cream, and two ounces of grated Parmesan. Pour the mixture into a buttered plate, bake in a quick oven, and serve immediately. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for two persons. Omelet with Gravy. Whisk half a dozen fresh eggs thoroughly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, half a tea-spoonful of chopped onions, and two table-spoonfuls of nicely-seasoned gravy. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a hot frying-pan over a gentle fire, and fry the omelet in it in the usual way. Serve it on a hot dish with half a pint of good gravy poured round it. Time to fry, six or seven minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Onion. This well-known vegetable may be regarded either as a condiment or as an article of real nourishment. By boiling it is deprived of much of its pungent, volatile oil, and becomes , agreeable, mild, and nutritious. It is not so wholesome either fried or roasted. There is no vegetable about which there is so much diversity of opinion as there is about the onion ; some persons liking a little of it in every dish, and others objecting to it entirely. Generally speaking, however, a shght flavouring of onion is an improvement to the majority of made dishes, but it should not be too strong. The smeU which GAELIC. LEEK. ONION. arises from the esculent during cooking, and the unpleasant odour it imparts to the breath of those who partake of it, are the principal objections which are urged against it. The latter may be partiallj remedied by eating a Httle raw parsley after it. When onions are used for stuffing, the unpleasant properties belonging to them would be considerablj' lessened if a lemon, freed from the outer i-ind but covered as thickly as possible with the white skin, were put in the midst of them, and thrown away when the dish is ready for the table. Onions may be rendered much milder if two or three waters are used in boiling them. Spanish onions are not so strong as English ones, and are generally considered superior in flavour. The largest are the best. Onions, as well as garlic, shalots, chives, and leeks, contain a principle called allyle, to which they owe their peculiar flavour. When young, the onion is ONI (468) ONI eaten raw, and it is also pickled, and made into a sauce by boiling, in which process nauch of the allyle is got rid of. It grows to a great size in the south of Europe, and when imported into this country is boiled and eaten with melted butter. Onion and Cabbage. A slight flavouring of onion is a great improvement to red cabbage pickle {see Cabbage, Pickled) . Onion and Eggs. Wash and peel a large Spanish onion. Cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, strew a little salt and pepper over these, and fry them in hot butter until they are tender, without being browned. Take the pieces up with an egg-slice to preserve them whole, drain well from the fat, and place them on a hot dish. Squeeze the juice of two large fresh lemons upon them. Have ready four poached eggs, place these on the onions, and serve immediately. Time, twenty minutes altogether. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Onion and Sage Goose Stufang [see Goose-stuffing, Sage and Onion). Onion and Sage Stuffing for Greese, Duck, or Pork. Wash, peel, and parboil three large onions. If a strong flavour of onions is liked, the boiling can be omitted, and the onions used raw ; if it is objected to, they may be boiled in one or two waters. Drain the onions, mince them finely, and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, a heaped table- spoonful of powdered sage, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. The yolk of an egg is sometimes added, but it is oftener omitted. Spanish onions are always to be preferred to the ordinary ones for stufiing. Time to boU the onions, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Onion Beef, German {see German Onion Beef). Onion, Chops Stewed with {see Chops Stewed with Onion). Onion, Forcemeat of {see Forcemeat of Onion). Onion Gravy {see Gravy, Onion). Onion Omelet {see Omelet, Onion). Onion Porridge (a country remedy for a cold in the head). Peel a large Spanish onion, divide it into four, and put it into a saucepan with half a salt- spoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, and a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently until it is quite tender, then pour it into a heated bowl, dredge a little pepper over it, and eat it as hot as possible just before going to bed. Time to boil the onion, about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one person. Onion, Potatoes Mashed with {see Potatoes Mashed with Onion). Onion Sauce. White onion sauces are generally served with boiled rabbits, roast mutton, and tripe, or, when superlatively made, with lamb and mutton cutlets. The brown sauces are excellent with steaks, cutlets, sausages, &c. Onion Sauce, Brown. Peel and mince two moderate- sized Spanish onions very finely. Fry them in two ounces of dissolved butter until they are lightly browned. Add half a pint of brown gravy mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, six or eight minutes to boU. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Onion Sauce, Brown (another way). Peel two large onions, and cut away the ends. Divide them into thin slices, and lay them in salted water for an hour. Drain them, and fry them in a little butter imtil they are lightly browned. Pour over them haK a pint of good brown sauce, and let them simmer until tender. Add a little more sauce if required. Press them through a sieve. Eetum the puree to the saucepan, add an ounce of butter and a table- spoonful of glaze, simmer five or six minutes, and serve very hot. A tea-spoonfvil of dry mustard is sometimes mixed with the above sauce. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five Onion Sauce, Brown, Piquant. Fry the onions as in the last recipe. When they are quite tender, pour over them haK a pint of gravy mixed smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour, add pepper and salt, if reqviired, a lump of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a glass of sherry. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pass it through a strainer, and serve as hot as possible. A tea-spoonfiJ of dry mustard is sometimes mixed with the above sauce. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Sauce, German. Peel three or four large onions. Cut them into small pieces, and boil them imtil tender in as much good stock as will cover them. Stir in with them, whilst boiling, a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. Mix two ounces of flour smoothly with two ounces of butter) and a little of the hot liquid ; add it to the rest, season with pepper and salt, simmer gently over the fire for ten minutes, and serve very hot. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Sauce, White. Take two Spanish onions or four large ordinary ones. Peel them, slice off the ends, and simmer them in as much cold water as will cover them imtil tender. Drain the water from them, mince them finely, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of milk mixed smoothly with two ounces of flour and two ounces of fresh butter, a Httle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve it as hot as possible. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Onion Sauce, White, Common. Boil the onions until tender. Mix with them half a pint of melted butter; add quarter of a ONI (-1(39) OKI pint of new milk, and a little salt and pepper. Stir the sauce over the tire until it boUs, and serve as hot as possible. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Sauce, Young. Peel half a pint of medium-sized button-onions, and throw them into cold water for half an hour. Boil them untU they are tender without being broken, then stir them into half a pint of melted butter ; add a httle salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Serve very hot. Time, about half an hour to boil the onions. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Soubise Sauce. Soubise sauce is nothing but superlative onion sauce. It is made as follows : Peel and slice four Spanish onions ; throw them into boiling water for ten minutes, and then into cold water. Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a httle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and let them stew very gently until they are tender without being at all browned. Mix three ounces of flouj' smoothly with a pint of milk, or, if preferred, half a pint of chicken broth, and half a pint of milk or cream may be used. Add this to the onions, and sinuner very gently for a quarter of an hour. Press the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, and when wanted for use make it quite hot, without letting it boil again. Probable cost, lOd., if made with milk. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Onion Soup. Peel half a dozen Spanish onions, and mince them very finely. Fry them in a little fresh butter until they are tender without being browned. Pour over them about three pints of nicely-seasoned stock, add a little cayenne, salt, and pepper, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Press the soup through a hair-sieve, and return it to the saucepan. Grate the crumb of a stale loaf into half a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir this into the soup, and serve very hot. Time, eight or ten minutes to fry the onions. Probable cost, onions, l d. each. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Onion Soup (another way) . Peel and slice a dozen moderate-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of boiling stock (the liquid in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will answer very well for the purpose), two ounces of lean ham finely minced, a large carrot, a large turnip, a small parsnip, a few of the outside sticks of a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, quarter of an ounce of white pepper, and a little salt. Simmer gently for one hour and a half, then press the soup with the vegetables through a hair-sieve, and when cold mix in the yolks of three weUbeaten eggs, and half a pint of new m il k . The soup may be stirred over the fire until quite hot, but it must not boil after the eggs and milk are added. If liked, this soup may be thickened with a table-spoonful of ground rice. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the stock. Onion Soup, Brown. Take about two dozen small silver onions such as would be used for pickling peel them carefully, sprinkle a little sugar on them, and fry them till nicely browned in a little hot butter. Poui- over them two pints of clear brown gravy soup nicely seasoned and strongly flavoured with onions. Let all boil up together, and serve very hot. If preferred, this soup may be thickened by stirring into it a table-spoonful of ground rice or flour mixed smoothly with a small quantity of cold water. Time, about ten minutes to brown the onions. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Onion Soup, Maigre. Mince half a medium-sized onions very finely. Put them into a stewpan over a gentle fire with three ounces of dissolved butter, dredge a little flour over them, and move them about until they are tender and lightly browned. Add two pints of boiling water, and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat two eggs briskly for a minute or two, boil the soup, let it cool half a minute, then stir it in amongst the eggs, and serve immediately. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Onion Stuffing for Chicken. Beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly, and mix with it a table-spoonful of hot vinegar, half a saltsijoonful of powdered thj-me, and as much finely-minced parsley as will make it quite thick. Boil a large Spanish onion in three or four waters until it is tender, press it well, mince it finely, and mix it with the vinegar, &c. Add two ounces of boiled pickled pork cut up into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. A chicken which has been filled with this stuffing should be braised and served with white sauce. Time, one hour to boU the onion. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one chicken. Onions (a la Creme). Peel four mediiimsized Spanish onions, and boil them in water slightly salted xmtil they are sufficiently cooked. Drain them on a sieve, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of butter rubbed smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour, and a little salt and white pepper. Shake the pan constantly, and stir in by degrees half a pint of cream or new milk. Serve the onions on toasted bread, with the sauce poured over. Sufficient for four or five persons. One hour to boil the onions, quarter of an hour to stew them. Cost, with cream. Is. 7d. ; with milk, lid. Onions and Eggs {see Eggs and Onions). Onions Baked (to be served with Roast Mutton, &c.). Peel three or four medium-sized Spanish onions, and boil them in salted water for a quarter of an hour, then throw them into cold water for haK an hour. Drain them well, cut them into slices half an inch in thickness, place them in a single layer in a well-buttered tin, and bake them in a quick oven, basting them occasionally with butter, until they are tender and lightly browned. Serve on a hot dish. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persona. ONI (470) ONI Onions, Bologna Sausage with (sec Bologna Sausage with Onions). Onions, Brown, for Garnishing Stews. Cut the two ends from some small silver onions, and throw them into boiling water for five minutes. Drain them on an inverted sieve, and when cool take off the outer skins, and put them into a well-buttered saute-pan, with a little butter and sugar, and fry them (turning them over once) xmtil they are lightly browned all over. Drain them well, and, ten minutes before they are used, put them into the stew which they are intended to garnish. Time, about ten minutes to brown the onions. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a dish large enough for five or six persons. Onions, Bxilloek's Heart with (sec Bullock's Heart, &c.). Onions, Burnt, for Soups and Gravies. Burnt onions for colouring and flavouring soups and gravies may be bought at most Italian warehouses for about 8d. per pound. A liquid answering very much the same pui-pose, though slightly acid, may be prepared at home and stored for use. It should be made as follows : Mince a pound of onions very finely, and put them into an enamelled saucepan with a pint of boiling water, place them upon the fire, and let them remain for four or five minutes. Add a pound of sugar, and simmer until the sjTup is nearly black. Strain it into a pint of boiling vinegar, stir briskly for a minute or two, and when cold bottle for use. Time, one hour. Probable cost,-6d. per pint. Onions, Coloured, for Soup Flavouring. Put half a dozen large onions into an oven on a tin dish, with equal quantities of butter and sugar (previously well mixed together) on the top of each. As the mixture dissolves, baste the onions frequently with it ; they must not get dry, but they should be black through, yet not burnt. A slow oven is required. For imparting a flavour and colour to soups black onions are very valuable. Probable cost, l d. per pound. Onions, Cow-heel Fried with (see Cow-heel Fried, &c.). Onions, Cueiunbers Stewed with (see Cucumbers, &c.). Onions for Seasoning Sauces and Made Dishes. Mince three or four onions very finely. Put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and let them boil until quite tender. Press them with their liquid through a hair sieve, when they are ready for xise. Time, haH an hour. Probable c?st, 2d. Onions, Fowl with {see Fowl with Onions). \ Onions, Glazed, for Garnishing Beef, &e. Take a dozen freshly-gathered large-sized onions, cut a thin slice off each end, and throw them into boding water for a quarter of an hour. Take off the outer skin, scoop a small piece out of the middle of each onion, and put a quarter of a tea-spoohf ul of powdered sugar into the empty spaces thus formed. Put two or three slices of butter in a stewpan. Arrange the onions side by side ia it, and place it on the fire, turning the onions two or three times that they may be equally coloured all over. When nicely browned, moisten them with half a pint of good strong stock, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer very gently until the sauce is reduced to glaze. Baste the onions frequently whilst the sauce is simmering, and keep them warm until wanted for use. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. Suflicient to garnish a moderate-sized piece of beef. Onions, How and Where to Keep. Onions should be fastened upon ropes, and hung from the ceiling of a cool, airy apartment. They should not be hung in the storeroom, on account of their unpleasant odour. Onions, Pickled. Onions, like aU other pickles, are considered more wholesome, though less handsome, when prepared at home, than when bought at the warehouses. Home-made pickled onions are besides quite as expensive. The small silver onions are generally used for pickling, and should be obtained as soon as possible after they are harvested, as they are then in the best condition. This will be about the middle of August. Peel the onions until they look clear, being careful not to cut the bulb. If a little warm water be poured over them the task will not be quite so disagreeable. Throw them as they are peeled into a bowl of white-wine vinegar, and when they are all finished strain the vinegar into an enamelled stewpan, with an ounce of whole peppercorns, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and an inch of whole ginger to each quart. Boil gently for five minutes, let the liquid cool, and pomit over the onions. It must be boiled again twice before the onions are fastened up, and should be sufficient to cover them entirely. Put the pickle into jars, cork securely, and cover them with bladder, then store for use. If it is preferred, instead of boiling the vinegar three times, the onions may be thrown into it when boiling, and simmered gently for two minutes. Probable cost, onions. Is. or Is. 6d. per gallon. Onions, Pickled (another way). Prepare the onions as in the last recipe, but instead of throwing them when peeled into vinegar, throw them into biine sufficiently strong to bear an egg. Let them remain in this until the next day, then drain them, and lay them between two cloths to dry. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them with half a teaspoonful of coriander seed, an inch of whole ginger, and an ounce of peppercorns to each cjuart. After the liquid has reached the boiling point, let it simmer gently for three minutes, and pour it out to cool. Put the onions into jars, divide the spices amongst them, and cover them entirely with the cooled vinegar. Cork securely, and cover the corks with bladder. Store for use. Tliis pickle should not be used until it has been kept a month. Probable cost, onions. Is. to Is. 6d. per gallon. Onion?!, Pickled (an easy method). Peel the onions according to the directions already given. {See the last recipe but one). Put them as they are done into %vide-mouthed glass bottles ONI (471 ) ONI or earthen jars, place layers of spice amongst them, allowing an ounce of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful of mustard seed, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of coriander seed to each quart of ctfdons. Cover them with cold vinegar, and cork secm-ely. As the vinegar is absorbed by the onions more should be added, so as to keep them weU covered. Store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost of onions. Is. to Is. 6d. per gallon. Onions, Pickled, with Cucumbers. Put a moderate-sized onion with three cucumbers. Peel and slice them, and take the seeds out of the cucumbers. Put the slices in a colander. Sprinkle salt over them, and leave them twenty-four hours to drain, then place them in a large earthen jar, and pour over them sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them. Tie a bladder over them, and place the jar near the fire. Boil up the vinegar every day, pour it upon the pickle, and cover the jar instantly, so that none of the steam may escape. Repeat this until the cucumbers are green ; and add an ounce of whole pepper to every quart of vinegar the last time of boiling. Store in a cool, diy place. The vinegar of this pickle is excellent for salads. Time, four or five days. Probable cost of onions, l d. each; cucumbers. Is. Onions, Plain, Boiled. Peel half a dozen medium-sized Spanish onions, and boil them gently for five or six minutes in a little salt and water. Drain them on a sieve, and throw them into cold water for an hour. Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and let them simmer gently until they are tender quite through, without being broken. Serve on a hot dish, with a little melted butter poured over them. Time, medium-sized Spanish onions, an hour and a half to boil. Probable cost, 1 Id. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onions, Sliced and Pried. Onions, cut into thin slices, fried in a little hot butter until they are browned, without being burnt, then mixed with flour, and afterwards pressed through a fine sieve, are excellent for flavouring and colouring brown soups and sauces. Onions, Spanish, and Beet-root, to Pickle. Take equal quantities of Spanish onions and beet-root. Slice the onions, and lay them in brine for twenty-four hours, then drain them well. Wash the beet-root gently ; if the skin or fibres are broken the colour will be spoilt. Boil it for an hour, and leave it also unto, the next day. Peel the roots, and cut them into slices. Place alternate layers of beet-root and onion in wide-mouthed earthen jars, poui- over them vinegar which has been boiled with spices and allowed to cool. Cover with bladder, and store for use. Two or three drops of cochineal will improve the colour of this pickle, and will not harm it. Beet-root, time to boU, one hour. Onions, Spanish, Baked. Wash and trim, without peeling, half a dozen Spanish onions of medium size. Put them into a saucepan, cover them with water slightly salted, and let them simmer very gently for about an hour. Take them up, drain them, wrap each onion in a separate piece of paper, put them into a moderate oven, and let them remain until quite tender. Before dishing them, remove the skins, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and pour half a pint of good gravy into the dish with them. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onions, Spanish, Pickled. Take some moderate-sized and perfectly sound Spanish onions, cut them in slices, and put them for twenty-four hours in a brine sufficiently strong to float an egg. Drain them well, lay them in wide-mouthed earthen jars, and put a shced capsicum, four cloves, and an ounce of whole pepper with every three onions. Nearly fill the jar with vinegar, place the lid on it, and set it in a large pan of cold water. Place this upon the fire, and simmer gently until the onions are soft. Add a little more vinegar, if required ; cover the jars closely, and store the pickle in a cool, dry place. Time, an hour and a half to simmer. Probable cost of onions, l d. each. Onions, Stewed. Peel and trim half a dozen Spanish onions of medium size, but be careful not to cut the tops too short, or the bulb will fall to pieces whilst stewing. Blanch them in boiling water for a minute or two, then diain them, and put them side by side in a saucepan sufficiently large to hold them all in one layer. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and place upon each onion hall an ounce of butter, mixed smoothly with half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Place them over a gentle fire, and let them remain until lightly browned, then cover with good brown gravy, and simmer them until tender. Serve as hot as possible on toast, with the gravy poured round them. If hked, the gravy may be flavoured with tomato-sauce, or with a finelyminced gherkin and a glass of claret. A pleasing variety, too, may be secured by taking out the middle of each onion, stuffing it with nicely-seasoned forcemeat, and then stewing in gravy as before. Time to stew the onions, about an hour and half. Probable cost of onions, 14d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onions, Stuffed. Take three moderatesized Spanish onions. Peel and trim them neatly, but be careful not to cut oif too much of the tops, for fear the onions fall to pieces. Scoop out the hearts of the onions, mince them finely, and mix with them four- ounces of lean beef or pork and one ounce of fat bacon (chopped small), a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, three tablespoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs, two oimces of butter, a Little salt and cayenne, and the yolk of an egg well beaten. Stuff the onions with the meat, and put them into a saucepan side by side, and with them half a pint of good gravy, two apples, pared, cored, and chopped smaU. ' Stew the onions until they are perfectly tender, and turn them over once or twice, so that they may be thoroughly cooked all through. Thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter, add pepper and salt and a table-spoonful of brandy, and serve the onions on a hot dish with the gravy poured round them. If the acid flavour is liked, the strained juice of a large fresh lemon may be poured over the ONI ( 472 OBA onions a few minutes before they are taken off the fire. Time, three hours to stew the onions. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for three persons. Onions, Stuffed (another way) . Prepare three or four large Spanish onions as in the last recipe. Scoop out the centres, making a hole fully an inch and a half across. Put in each one a mutton kidney, and place the onions side by side in a saucepan. Sprinkle a little salt and cayenne over them, and pour upon them haH a pint of good brown gravy. Place the pan over a gentle fire, and let it remain until the onions are quite tender. Serve as hot as possible. Time to simmer the onions, two and a half or three hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Onions, Stuffed and Baked. Peel two large Spanish onions, partly boil them, and leave them on a sieve to drain until nearly cold. Then cut the onions an inch and a half across the top, and scoop out the centre. Have ready a stuffing made with one ounce of finely-grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs minced very finely, one ounce of butter, three ounces of bread-crumbs, one salt-spoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper. Mix all weU together with a spoonful or two of milk. Fill up the onions with the forcemeat, brush them over with egg and breadcrimibs, and bake them until nicely browned. Serve on a hot dish, with brown gravy poured over them. Time, half an hour to boil the onions ; three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. Onions, Wkite, for Garnishing Stewed Chicken pr Veal. Take a dozen freshly-gathered silver onions of a moderate size, cut a thin slice off each end, and blanch them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Drain them well, dry them in a cloth, take off the outer skins; put them into a stewpan with a salt-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of sugar, and as much water as mil cover them. Let them simmer gently until they are tender, without being at aU broken. Drain them, and, a few minutes before they are served, put them into the stew which they are intended to garnish. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to sinmier. Probable cost of onions, 3d. Sufficient for a dish of veal for three or four persons. Onions, with Beef-steak, &e. Take two large Spanish onions. Remove a thin piece oft' each end, peel off the outer skins, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Place an ounce of butter or good dripping ia a saucepan, let it melt, then put with it a pound of steak, divided into pieces a Uttle thinner than for broihng. Bro v-n these in the batter, add a little pepper and salt, the sliced onions, three ounces more of butter, but no liquid ; cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently until the onions are tender. Arrange the steak neatly m the centre of a hot dish, boil up the omon gravy sauce with a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup, pour it over the meat, and serve immediately. Chickens or rabbits ar+' sometimes cooked in the same way. Time about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Onions, with Grated Cheese (a German recipe). Wash and peel three or four large sound onions, cut them into slices fuUy half an inch thick, and place them side by side in a single layer in a well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, place them in a quick oven, and let them remain until tender ; strew each piece of onion thickly with grated cheese, and return the dish again to the oven for a few minutes until the cheese has dissolved. Lift the slices carefully upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. A little mustard should be eaten with them. Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Orange. Oranges come into season at the beginning of winter, but they can rarely be obtained sufficiently sweet to be agreeable before Christmas. The St. Michael and Malta oranges are the most commonly used. They appear early, and last all the season. The Tangerine oranges are very small, but sweet, and delicious in flavour. The rind has a very peculiar taste. They come into the market later than the others, and are soon over. The Se\'ille orange does not appear until the end of February, and is chiefly used for making marmalade and wine. There are supposed to be nearly a hundred varieties of oranges in Italy. The orange as a dessert fruit is deservedly popular. The varieties most in favour for this purpose are the China, Portugal, and Maltese. The orange is also employed in confectionery, not only when ripe, but when green and not larger than a pea. It assists in the formation of several Hqueuis and conserves, either alone or combined with sugars, wines, or spirits, and either the pulp, or skin, or both, are used for these purposes. In cooking it is employed to aromatise a number of dishes. Orange and Almond Ice {see Almond and Orange Ice). Orange and Batter Pudding. IVIix four table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly and gradually with half a pint of cold milk ; add two fresh eggs, thoroughly whisked, a pinch of salt, a table- spoonful of moist sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of oQed butter. Pour the batter into a buttered basin which it wUI quite fill, dredge a Little flour over it, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. If more water must be put in, let it be boiling. Let the pudding stand two or three minutes after it is taken out of the water before it is turned out of the mould. Place it on a hot dish, and before sending to table empty a half-pound jar of orange marmalade over it. This pudding is better if made two or three hours before it is wanted. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four persons. Orange and Lemon Candied Rings for Garnishing. When orange jelly or punch is being made, and the orange rinds are not used, it is good economy (if trouble is not a consideration) to candy the latter in rings, ORA (473) OBA and store them in a tin box until wanted for garnishing sweet dishes. Cut the oranges into rounds a quarter of an inch thick, remove the pulp without breaking the ring, and leave a narrow rim of white on the yellow part. Throw these rings into salt and water, leave them until the following day, and then boil them in fresh water until they are tender. Lift them carefully out, drain on an inverted sieve, and when cool dip them into brandy. Make a sjTup with half a pound of loaf sugar and half a pint of the water in which the rings were boiled to each half a dozen oranges. Boil it until clear ; dip the rings into it three times, and again drain them. Heat the syrup twice a day, and dip the rings into it whilst it is hot, but not boiling, and continue this until they are candied. Store in tin boxes, arranging the rings in single layers between sheets of writingpaper. They will keep any length of time in a cool dr}' place. The sugar which remains is excellent for flavouring. Time, half an hour to boil them in fresh water ; to be dipped in hot sjTup twice a day until they are candied. Orange and Lemon Juice for Colds (Invalid Cookery). Orange or lemon-juice, strained and boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, and then bottled and corked closely, will prove an agreeable and valuable addition to gruel and other warm drinks which are required for invalids. Time, fifteen minutes to boil. Sufficient, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice to half a pint of gruel. Orange- Apple Jelly. In preparing apple jelly a pleasing variety may be made as follows : Boil the apple- juice and the sugar in the usual way for about ten minutes, and then throw in with them some slices of orange a quarter of an inch thick. The peel may be left on, but the pips should be carefully removed. Let all cook together, and when the apple jelly is potted, put two or three slices of orange into each jar. Time, about threequarters of an hour to boil the jelly. Sufficient, one sliced orange for a pint of apple jelly. Orange Bisctlits. Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Hub the rinds of two Seville oranges with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, until the yeUow part is all taken ofP. Crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with the butter ; add a small pinch of salt, four ounces of dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of foirr eggs, two ounces of candied orange-peel, cut into thin shreds, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pour the mixture into small buttered moulds, sift powdered sugar over the biscuits, and bake in a slow oven for about ten minutes. Probable -ost. Is. 3d. Orange Bisctlits (another way) To be used as a Stomachic Boil the rinds of Seville oranges in two or three waters, until they are quite tender and most of the bitterness is gone. Drain well, weigh them, mince finelj', and pound them in a mortar with an equal weight of powdered sugar ; spread the paste out thinly on a dish, and place it in the sun, or in some wai-m place, to dry. TNTien the upper part Ls stiff, stamp the mLxture out into 31 small shapes, turn these carefully over, and dry the under side. These biscuits should be stored between layers of paper in a tin box. Time, two hours to boil the rinds. Probable cost, oranges. Id. each. Orange Brandy. Take the thin rinds of six Seville oranges. Put into a stone jar, and pour over them half a pint of the strained juice of the oranges and two quarts of French brandy. Let them remain for three days, then add a pound and a quarter of loaf sugar broken, not powdered and stir the liquid until the sugar is dissolved ; let it stand imtil the next day, strain through filtering paper until quite clear, pour it into bottles, and cork securely ; the longer orange brandy is kept the better it is. This liquem- should be made in March. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five pints of orange brandy. Orange Brandy (another way). Put half a dozen whole Seville oranges into a jar, pour over them four pints of French brandy, and let them infuse for twenty-eight days. Filter the liquid until it is quite clear, then put with it ten ounces of loaf sugar in lumps, and stir two or three times a day until the sngar is dissolved; strain again, put the liqiud into bottles, and cork securely. This liqueur will improve with keeping. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for two quarts of orange brandy. Orange Butter. Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste. Mix with them the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, one ounce of pounded and sifted sugar, two ounces of fresh butter, and a spoonful or two of orange-flower water. Rub the butter through a colander, and serve it with sweet or plain biscuits. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a pound of biscuits. Orange Cake. Blanch two oimces of sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar with a little white of egg ; mix with them two ounces of powdered sugar, two well-beaten eggs, and the yolks of two hard-boiled ones which have been made smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Slice four ounces of fresh butter into six ounces of flour, add the almond mixture and two or three spoonfuls of milk, enough to make a firm paste. Poll this out in a round form, about a quarter of an inch thick, and ornament the edge with a thick twist, made of the trimmings of the pastry. Bake on buttered paper in a moderate oven imtil the cake is lightly browned, and when nearly cool spread upon it a mixture made as follows:- Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs and the white of one. Rub two ounces of loaf sugar upon the yellow rind of two oranges ; crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with the eggs. Add the strained juice of the oranges, and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken. When it is nearly cool, add two tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar and the wellwhisked whites of two eggs. Before serving, an orange peeled and quartered may be laid upon the cake in the form of a star. This cake OKA ( i' ) ORA is very good ?when made of ordinary pastry. Time, about half an hour to bake the cake. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for live or six persons. Orange Cakes. Peel some Seville oranges. Weigh the rinds, and boil them in two or three waters until they can be easily pierced with a for.k. Drain the water from them, and jjound them in a mortar with double their weight in powdered sugar, and the pulp and juice of the oranges, which must have been carefully freed from skin and seeds. Beat the mixture thoroughly; if it is too thick, let it stand a few hours, drop it upon buttered tins in small rounds, and dry these in a cool oven. Orange cakes should be kept in layers between sheets of writing-paper, and stored in a cool dry place. Time, two hours to boil the orange linds. Probable cost, Seville oranges, Id. or l d. each. Orange Calf's Feet Jelly. Take one pmt of calf's feet stock, carefully freed from fat and sediment, mix with it half a pint of strained orange-juice, the juice of two lemons, the whites and crushed shells of three eggs, the thin rinds of two oranges and one lemon, half a tea- spoonful of isinglass, and foirr ounces of sugar in lumps ; stir these gently over the fire until they are well mLxed, but as soon as the liquid begins to heat, leave off stirring, and let the scum rise undistm'bed ; let the jelly simmer fifteen minutes after it has reached the boiling point, then draw it to the side of the fire and let it stand to settle fifteen minutes longer ; lift the bead of scum off carefully, and pour the jelly through a tamis until it is quite clear. Take a damp mould, pour in a little of the jolly to the depth of half an inch, and let it stand in a cool j laco until it is stiff ; arrange the quarters of an orange on this in the form of a star, first freeing them entirely from the thick white skin ; pour the rest of the jelly on them, and set the mould in a cool place. Turn it out carefully before serving. Probable cost 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Orange Cardinal. Peel a large sound St. Michael's orange very thinly, remove the thick white skin, and cut the fruit into thin slices; remove the pips, place the slices in a bowl, and strew over them a quarter of a pound of pounded and sifted sugar. Put the rind of the orange into a pint of good light wine, and let it infuse for six or eight hours. Strain it over the sweetened fruit, and, just before serving, add one bottle of champagne. A SeviUe orange may be used if the ilavour is preferred, but it will require more sugar and a larger proportion of wine than a sweet one. Probable cost, according to the quality of the wine. Orange Cheesecakes. Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar -with a dessert-spoonful of orange-flower water. Add four ounces of finelysifted sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, the rind, pulp, and juice of a small Seville orange which has been boiled in two or three waters imtil tender, then freed from the pips and skin, one candied orange pounded to a paste, the yolks of five and the wliites of two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put it into pattypans lined with good puif-paste, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake the cheesecakes, a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost, Is. lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for two dozen cheesecakes. Orange Cheesecakes (another way). Rub the rind of a Seville orange with two or three lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is taken oft'. Crush the sugar to powder, and put it into a saucepan -\vith three table-spoonfuls of new milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Stir all over the fire tmtil the butter is dissolved, then pour the liquid over four ounces of sponge biscuits. Beat them well with a fork, and add tlu-ee oimces of sugar, half a salt-spoonful of nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of brandy, and three eggs well-beaten. 3Iix thoroughly. Line some pattj'-pans \vath good puft'-paste, half fiU them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for half a dozen cheesecakes. Orange Cheesecakes {sec Cheesecakes). Orange Chips. Take the rinds of some large oranges. Cut into quarters, and weigh them. Boil them in water until they are so tender that they can be easily pierced with a fork, drain them well, and spread them in the sun or before the fii'e to dry. Take one pound and a half of sugar to two pounds of orange rind. Clarify the sugar, pour it upon the rind, and leave it for twenty-four hours. Strain ?ff the syru}), boil it until it is thick, and -pour it boiling over the orange rind. Leave it for two days, then boil it again, and repeat this until the sugar is all used. Put the chips on a sieve in the sun, and leave them until they are dr -. Time, a week or more. Probable cost, oranges. Id. each. Orange Cream. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint of water. Add the strained juice of six sweet oranges and one lemon, and four ounces of loaf sugar, which have been well rubbed upon the rinds of the fi'uit. Stir aU gently over the fire nntil the sugar is dissolved, turn it out, and when nearly cold add half a pint of thick cream Pour the mixture into a damp mould, and place it in a cool airy situation until it is stiff and finn. Serve the cream in a glass dish. Time, ten minutes to boil the juice and sugar with the isinglass. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for a qiiart mould. Orange Cream (another way). See Cream, Orange. Orange Cream Sauce (for Puddings and Sweet Dishes). Soak the thin rind of half a small Seville orange in four table-spoonfuls of water for haK an hour. Strain the liquid, add two ounces of loaf sugar and the juice of a St. INIichael's orange, and boil quickly for two minutes. When nearly cold, mix it with half a pint of thick cream and a table-spoonful of rum, and serve. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Orange Custard. Strain the juice of four oranges over four ounces of loaf sugar, put , them into an enamelled saucepan, and stir them ORA (475) ORA over a gentle fire iintil the sugar is dissolved. Vllen the liquid is almost cold, add thi-ocquarters of a pint of thick cream and the wellbeaten yolks of four eggs. Put the custard in a jar, place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it until it thickens ; sei"\'e either in a glass dish, or in custard cups, and strew a Httle orange rind cut into very thin strips over the top. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the custard. Sufficient for four or five persons. Orange Custard (another way). Boil the thin rind of a Seville orange until it is quite soft. Drain the water from it, and pound it in a mortar with four oimoes of sifted sugar. Stir the mixtui-e into a pint of boiling cream, and add the yolks of four eggs well-beaten. Put the custard into a jug, set this in a pan of boiling water, and stir it over the fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out, and stir it agam until it is nearly cold; add a table-spoonftil of brandy and the strained juice of the orange, and serve either in a glass dish or in cuj s. A little orange-peel, cut into very fine shreds, may be put on the top of the custard. If cream cannot be obtained, milk may be used ; then the yolks of six eggs will be required. Time, a quarter of an hour to thicken the custard. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a pint and a half of custard. Orange Custard Fritters. Jlix a quarter of a pound of flour very smoothly with three eggs and a pint of milk. Stir the batter over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes until it is quite smooth, then add a pinch of salt, two ounces of loaf sugar, which have been well rubbed upon the rinds of two large oranges, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Spread the mixture out to cool, cut it into small oval pieces about a inch and a half long, and fi-y these lightly in hot fat. Drain them on blotting-paper, and serve them piled high on a napkin, -with sifted sugar stre-ssTi thickly over them. Time, about eight minutes to fry the fritters. Prsbable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Orange-Flowers. The flowers of tlie orange-tree should be di-ied in the months of May, June, and July. They are used for making candy and orange-flower tea, which is considered by many persons an excellent tonic. The flowers of the Seville orange are infused in making orange-flower water for flavoming. Orange-Flowers' Candy. Put one pound of doubly-refined loaf sugar into a saucepan with half a pint of water, and boil gently for ten minutes. Throw in two ounces of freshly-gathered oraTige-flowers, and leave them in the boihng s Tup for five minutes, then turn them into a bowl, and let them remain for two days. Boil the sjTup once more until it rises high in the pan ; strain it upon sheets of paper which have been placed upon large flat dishes, and loosen it from the paper before it is quite cold. Store the candy in canisters until wanted for use ; it will keep good some months. Probable cost, uncertain, orange-flowers being seldom offered for sale. Orange-Flowers, Tea of . Take half an ounce of orange-flowers. Put tliem into a jug, pom- over them half a pint of boiling water, and leave them to infuse for a few minutes; strain the tea, and sweeten it either with sugar or honey. Probable cost, unccjrtain, orangeflowers being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for half a pint. Orange Fool. Strain the juice of three Seville oranges into a basin with three wellbeaten eggs. Mix them thoroughly, grate half a small nutmeg over them, and add a pint of thick cream, flavoitred and sweetened with sugar, which has been rubbed upon lemon-rind. Put the mixture into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling water, and stir it over the fire until it begins to thicken. Serve it in a glass dish, with a little sifted sugar strewn over it. Time, a quarter of an hour to thicken the mixture. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for five cr six persons. Orange Fritters. lix tv.-o table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with ore well-beaten egg, a quarter of an ounce of butter, and a quarter of a pint of cream, and add a pinch of salt and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Peel four or five large sweet oranges; take away the white pith, and divide them into sections without breaking the thin skin that divides them. Dip the pieces first into sherry, then into sifted sugar, and afterwards into the batter. Fry them in hot lard until thty are lightly bro-wned. Drain them' on blotting-paper to free them entirely from fat, and servo piled high on a hot napkin, with sifted sugar strewn over them. Time, eight or ten minutes to fiy the oranges. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the wine and brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Orange Fritters (another way). Prepare a batter as in the preceding recipe. Divide some oranges into quarters ; do it carefully so that none of the juice shall escape ; the thick white or outer skin must be removed, but the thin skin that holds in the juices should be kept ,'0imd. Dip the pieces of orange in sherry, then into fine sugar, and lastly into the batter. Fry, and send to table in pyramid fashion, with powdered sugar over them, and a napkin on the dish. Fritters may be made with a variety of fruit pears, strawberries, &c. Probable cost, lOd. Time to fry, five minutes. Sufficient for a small dish. Orange Gin. Take the thin rind of three Seville oranges and one lemon, and put it into a jar with a pint and a half of gin, three-quarters of a pound of barley sugar crushed to powder, and the strained juice of the fruit; cover the jar closely, and leave it for two or three weeks, being careful to shake it well every now and then. Strain the Hqueur into bottles, cork these securely, and store for use. Orange gin improves with keeping. Probable cost, exclusive of the gin. Is., Sufficient for one qua'i-t of orange gin. Orange Gingerbread. Put threequarters of a pound of fresh butter into a jar with a pound and three-quarters of best treacle, and place it near the fire until the butter is dissolved. Beat the ingredients well together, let them cool a little, then stir them into two poimds ORA (476 ) ORA and a quarter of fine flour. Add three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, one ounce of allspice, and half a pound of candied orange-peel cut into thin slircds. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, put them aside for some hours. Roll the mixture out to the thickness of half an inch. Divide it into fingers, squares, or any forms which may be preferred ; brush these over with a little milk mixed with yolk of egg, and bake them on buttered tins in a cool oven. The cakes should be placed on the tins an inch apart from one another. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Ss. Orange Gingerbread (another way). See Gingerbread, (Jrange. Orange Gravy {see Gravy, Orange). Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeons, Snipes, Woodcock, &c Put half a pmt of veal gravy into a saucepan with an onion cut into small pieces, half a dozen leaves of basil, the rind of half a small iSeville orange, and, if the flavour- is liked, a little lemon-rind also. Simmer the gravy gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Strain it, and add to it the juice of the orange, half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a glassful of claret. Bring the sauce to the point of boiling, and serve very hot in a tureen. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the claret. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Orange, Iced. Take ofB the rind, and carefully remove as much of the white as possible without drawing the juice; if bruised, oranges are useless for this purpose. "Whisk the whites of two eggs to a froth, and then beat into it a pound of sugar, which should be of the best quality, and pounded; continue to beat for a quarter of an hour, when the oranges must be dipped singly into the egg and sugar mixture ; this is best effected by running a strong thread through each, by which they can be attached to a rod suspended across the oven. In a cool oven they should dry without . acquiring colour, and will resemble balls of ice. Time, about half an hour to dry. Sufiicient, half a pound of sugar to twelve oranges. Orange, Iced (another way). Whisk the white of an egg to a firm froth, and mix with it eight ounces of pounded and sifted . sugar ; beat the mixture thoroughly for ten or fifteen minutes. Peel three or four large sound oranges; take away the white pith without breaking the skin of the fruit, put a double thread thi'ough each orange, and pass it through the sugar. Fasten the oranges by the thread to a piece of long stick, hang them in a very cool oven, and leave them until they are quite dry, but they must not be allowed to acquire anj colour. Arrange the balls on a folded napkin, and garnish with sprigs of myrtle. Time, about one hour to dry. Probable cost of oranges, Id. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Orange, Isinglass Jelly. Take half a dozen ripe oranges, one lemon, and one small Seville orange. Pare off the rinds of half of them very thinly, pour over them a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and let them infuse for half an hour. Squeeze out the juice, and strain it carefully. Dissolve one ounce of isinglass, or gelatine, in thi-ee-quarters of a pint of water, mix with it the strained liquid in which the rinds have been soaked, and a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir over the fire, skimming carefully until it is on the point of boiling ; then add the strained juice, stir and skim the liquid again, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire for two or three minutes, and pass the jelly through a tamis until it is clear and bright. A table-spoonful of whisky may be added, and will be considered an improvement by many persons ; a blade of saffron will deepen the colour. Pour the jelly into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place until it is set. The jelly is to bo kept on the fire until it is on the point of boiling only. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Orange Isinglass Jelly (to mould with oranges). Prepare the orange jelly according to the directions given in the last recipe. When it is quite clear pour a small quantity into a damp mould, and put it aside untU it is set. Di 'ide a ripe China orange into quarters, and whilst freeing it entirely from the white skin be careful not to break the tliin skin which covers the sections. Boil the pieces of orange in a little thin syrup for two or thi'ee minutes, then drain them well, and arrange them upon the layer of stiffened jelly in the mould. Pour the rest of the jelly over, and set it aside until it is sufficiently finn to turn out. If preferred, the mould may be filled with layers of orange and jelly, but of course one layer must stiffen before another is put on, and thus a much longer time wiU be required. Time, eight or ten hours to set the jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Orange Jelly. Boil one pint of strained orange- juice with one pound of loaf sugar, and the thin rind of one or two bitter oranges, for twenty minutes. Add another pound of sugar, and boil thirty minutes longer. Take out the rind, and put a spoonful of the syrup into a cup. If it jellies, turn it into pots; if not, let it boil a few minutes longer. Cover the pots with tissue i aper brushed over with white of egg, and store in a cool place. Equal quantities of sweet and Seville oranges should be used. Time, fifty minutes to boil the jelly. Probable cost of oranges, 8d. per dozen. Sufficient, one dozen oranges ?vvill jdeld about a pint of juice. Orange Jelly (another way). Put the strained juice of four Seville oranges, and the thin rind of one, into an enamelled saucepan with a pint of water and eight oranges freed entirely from the rind and white pith, and cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness and the pips of aU the oranges. Simmer very gently for half an hour, then strain the liquid until "it is quite clear. Weigh this, boil it for five minutes, put with it its weight in good loaf sugar, and boil again until it jeUies. Put it into jars, cover it in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Time, altogether, about one hour. Probable cost of Se\'ille oranges, Is. per dozen. OBA (477) ORA Orange Juice, Imitation. Take one ounce of citric acid and one drachm of carhonate of potassia, and dissolve them in a quart uf water. Digest the solution on the peel of half an orange until it is sufficiently flavoured. Add white sugar or Narbonne honey till the proper degree of sweetness is arrived at. Or, in place of the orange-peel, take five or sLx drops of oil of orange-peel with half a fluid oimee of tincture of orange-peel. Orange Liqueur. Stick haK a dozen cloves into a fine Seville orange, put it into an earthen jar with one pint and a half of rectified spirits, or best gin, and leave it for a month. Boil one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar quickly with half a pint of water, pomit into the syrup, and leave it for another month. Filter the liqueur through blottingpaper, pour it into bottles, cork securely, and store for use. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit, 7d. Sufficient for nearly three pints of liqueur. Orange Liqueur (another way). Take the thin rind of two Seville oranges, and put it into an earthen jar with a pinch of saffron and a pint and a half of best gin. Leave it in a warm place for a week, then add half a pound of sugar, boUed to a sjTup, with a quarter of a pint of water, and let it remain four weeks longer. Filter the liqueur through blottingpaper, and bottle for use. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit, 5d. Sufficient for a quart of liqueur. Orange Marmalade. Orange marmalade should be made at the end of March or the beginning of April, as the Seville oranges are then in perfection, and it should bo remembered that large oranges with clear skins are the best for the purpose. The proportion of sweet and bitter oranges must be regulated by individual taste. As a general rule, however, nine St. lichael's oranges and two lemons may be put with every dozen of Seville oranges. Orange Marmalade (an easy method). Take equal weights of oranges and loaf sugar. Put the oranges whole into a preserving-pan, cover them with cold water, and bring them to the point of boiling. Pour off the liquid, put fresh water with the fruit, and boil gently until the rinds of the oranges can be easily pierced with the head of a pin. Drain the oranges, and cut them skin, pulp, and everything into very thin slices ; remove the pips, and thi'ow the fruit into a preserving-pan with half a pint of the water in which the oranges were last boiled to every pound of fruit, and half the sugar which is to be used. Simmer gently for thirty minutes, then add the remainder of the sugar, and boil twenty minutes longer, or until the marmalade jellies. Pour it into jars, and when cold cover and store for use. Probable cost of Seville oranges, os. or 6s. per hundred. Orange Marmalade (another way). Weigh the oranges before boiling them, and allow two pounds of loaf sugar to every pound of fruit. Boil in plenty of water until they are so soft that the skins can be easily I'iercud, then tb-ain, and skin them. Carefully remove the pulp with the back of a tea-spoon, and thi-ow the pips and skins into cold water. Cut the rinds into thin strips. Rub a preservingpan quickly round with a cut lemon, and boil the sugar to a syrup with a quarter of a pint of the strained water in which the pips were soaked to each pound. Throw in the fruit, let it boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the marmalade jellies. Put it into jars, cover closely, and store for use. Time, half an hour to simmer the marmalade. Probable cost of Seville oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. Orange Marmalade (another way). See Marmalade, Orange. Orange Marmalade (Invamd Cookery). - Take the same proportion of bitter and sweet oranges that was recommended in the first "Orange Marmalade" article, and an equal weight of loaf sugar. Boil the rinds in two waters until they are quite soft, and preserve the liquid in which they were last boiled. Scrape the pulp out carefully, throw the inner skins of the oranges and the pips into a basin of cold water, and let them infuse for an hour or two. Pound the skins in a mortar ; mix with them very gradually the pulp and juice, half the quantity of sugar which is to be used, and a quarter of a pint of liquid to each pound of pulp and juice. This liquid should consist of the strained water in which the pips were soaked and that in which the oranges were boiled. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then add the remainder of the sugar, and boil again until the marmalade jelHes. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil. Probable cost of Seville oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. Orange Marraalade (old - fashioned method). -Take the weight of the oranges in loaf sugar. Divide the skins into quarters, put them into a preserving-pan with plenty of cold water, and let them boil until they can bo easily pierced with the head of a pin. Whilst they are boiling, divide the fruit into sections, scrape out carefully all the pulp, and throw the skins and pips into a little cold water a pint is sufficient for a dozen oranges. When the skins are tender, drain them well, and preserve the water in which they were boiled. If it is wished to have the mai-malade very clear, thin, and highly colom-ed, the pith or inside -of the skins should be scraped out. The marmalade will then be more like preserve. It will be thicker and more economical if the pith be left in, but this is a matter of taste. Lay the skins in folds, and cut them into thin slireds about an inch long. Allow a pint of water for eveiy dozen oranges, using the strained liquid from the pips and skins and that in which the oranges were boiled, instead of fresh water. Put the pulp and the shreds into this, let them infuse for six hours, then boil them gently until the skins are qiiite tender ; add the proi er proportion of pounded sugar, and boil again until the marmalade jellies. Put it into jars, and when cold cover in the usual way. Time, two hours to boil the skins ; six hours to infuse the pulp, &c., in the liquid. Probable t0f-;t of mai-malade, Sd. per pound. ORA (478) ORA Orange Marmalade (quick way of making). Take equal weights of oranges and loaf sugar. Eoil the rinds of the oranges until they are quite soft. While they are stewing, divide the fruit into quarters, and scrape out the pulp and juice with the handle of a fork or spoon. Mince the rinds of the oranges very finely, mix with them the pulp, juice, and sugar, und put all into a presorving-pan. Bring the larmalade to the point of boiling, then leave Jt on the fire for three minutes only. Pour it oato jars, cover, and store for use. No water is used with this marmalade. Time, three minutes to boil the marmalade. Probable cost of Sc\-ille oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. Orange Marmalade and Bread Pudding. Butter a plain quart mould rather thickly. Spread a little orange marmalade over the bottom, lay on it a thin slice of bread and butter, and repeat until the mould is three parts full. Pour in a custard made with a pint of mUk and thi-cc well-beaten eggs. Let the bread soak in. this for an hour, then cover the pudding closely, and steam it over hot water until it is firm. Let the pudding stand for a minute before turning it out, and serve with sweet sauce. Time, half an hour to steam the pudding. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Orange Marmalade Pudding. Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely. Mix with it half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a pound of orange marmalade, two tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, an oimce of candied peel chopped small, a pinch of salt, three wellbeaten eggs, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. Put the mixture into a floui-ed cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it keep boiling until it is done enough. Turn out carefully, and serve with wine sauce. If preferred, this pudding may be boiled in a mould, but care must be taken that the mould is quite filled with the mixtui-e ; or it may be steamed. Time to boil or steam the pudding, four hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persorLS. Orange Marmalade Pudding (another way). Mix six oimscs of grated bread-crumbs with three ounces of finely-shred beef suet. Add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, half an ounce of candied lemonpeel chopped small, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, three well-beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. Take a well-buttered mould, spread a layer of the mixtui-e at the bottom, then put a layer of orange marrafllade, and repeat until the mould is full, being careful to let the mixture be at the top of the pudding. Bake in a moderate oven, and turn out before serving. Time, two hours to bake the pudding. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Orange Marmalade Pudding, Baked. Mix a large table-spoonful of orange mannalade with two table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, two ounces of clarified butter, and a dessert-spoonful of fine flour. Beat the mixture well untU it is quite fi-eo from lumps, then add two well-whisked eggs ; line a piedish with good puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. If preferred, the flour may be omitted. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Orange Marmalade with Honey. Eub the oranges with a soft cloth, peel them, tlirow the rinds into cold water, and boil until they are quite tender; then drain, and cut them into very thin strips about an inch long. Separate the pulp and juice from the inner skin and the pips, and put them into a preser -ing-pan with half a pound of the cut rinds and one pound of honey to every pint of pulp. Boil the marmalade gently, stirring it frequently, and when the proper consistency is attained pom- it into jars; cover these closely, and store in a cool dry place. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil the marmalade. Probable cost of oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred; honey, lOd. per pound. Orange or Lemon Shrub. Make a syrup by boiKng a quart of strained orange or lemon- juice with four pounds of powdered loaf sugar. When quite clear, add a pint of rum to each half pint of sjTup. Put the mixture into a perfectly sweet dry cask, and shake it twice a day for a fortnight ; leave it for six weeks, when it may be drained off, and bottled. Time, two months to prepare. Orange-peel. The recent and dried peel of the orange, as well as that of the lemon and citron, is much in demand for flavouring purposes. Under the name of chips, lemon and orange-peel preserved in sugar are eaten. We meet with chips preserved in sugar, moist, undej- the name of '' candied" peel. Orange-peel, Candied. Divide the fruit into quarters lengthwise, and remove the pulp ; or, if preferred, take any pieces of orange rind which are not required, provided only that they are large enough. Throw them into salt and water sufficiently strong to bear an egg, and let them infuse for six days. Drain them well, throw them into cold water for an hour, and afterwards place them in a preserAong-pan with as much cold water as will cover them, and let them boil until they are so tender that they can be easily pierced with a fork or skewer. Drain them again, and boil them in a thin syrup, made in the proportion of a pint of water to half a pound of loaf sugar, until they look clear, which will bo in about half an hour. Boil some sugar, with as much water as it wiU absorb, to a clear syrup. There should be enough to cover the orange rinds when they are thrown in. Boil them until the sugar candies, then take them out, drain them, sift a little powdered sugar over them, and place them in a warm place to dr ' ; then store for use. Time, a week to prepare. Probable cost of oranges, from Sd. to Is. per dozen. Orange-peel for Flavouring. Wben orange peel cannot be obtained for flavoirring, a substitute may he prepared as follows : Mix one di-achm of "the essential oil of orange with a quarter of a pint of spirits of wine. Put the essence into small bottles, and cork closely. ORA (470) ORA The flavour is not equal to that of the fresh fi'uit. Or, soak the thin rind of two or three fresh oranges in as much brandy or spirits of wine as will cover them for a week or ten days. Filter the liquid, bottle, and cork closely until wanted. The flavour of this essence quickly evaporates if it is exposed to the arr. The best way to preserve orange-peel for flavouring is to rub the rind with lumps of sugar, and when the yellow part is all taken off, to crush the sugar to powder, and keep it closely covered. Orange-peel, Syrup of, for jlavoiir ing. Take two ounces of the thin yellow rind of iSeville oranges entii'ely free from the white part. Put it into a jar, and pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover closely, and leave it until the next day. Filter the liqueur tha-ough blotting-paper, put it into an enamelled saucepan, and with it a pound and a half of loaf sugar. Let it heat very gently over a slow fire until the sugar is dissolved, then bottle, cork closely, and store for use. Probable cost of oranges, Id. each. Sufficient for a quart of ijTup. Orange Plum Preserve, Green {see Green Orange Plum Preserve). Orange Plums, To Preserve (excellent). Gather the plums before they begin to ripen. "Weigh them, and rub them well with a soft cloth. Eun them down the seam, skin deep only, with a darning needle, put them into a deep earthen jar, cover this closely, place it in a large saucepan three parts full of water, and keep the contents boiling until the plums have yielded a considerable portion of their juice. Turn them into a preserving-pan, and boil them quickly until the stones can be easily removed. If it is wished, half the kernels may be blanched, and put into the jam a few minutes before it is taken from the fire. W-lien the stones are all taken awaj' and the jam looks smooth, put in the sugar, three pounds for every four poimds of plums, and boil again for half an hour. Tiu-n the jam into jars, and when cold cover in the usual way, and store for use. Time to boil, half an hour after the sugar is added. Probable cost of plums, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Orange Pudding. Bub the rind of a large orange u23on three or four lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is taken off. Make the sugar up to four ounces, put it into a bowl, and strain over it th juice of four oranges. Pour half a pint of boiling milk over three ounces of bruised ratafias or sponge-cake which have been finely crumbled. Add a pinch of salt and a quarter of a small niitmcg, grated. Mix thoroughly the contents of the two bowls, and stir in three well-beaten eggs. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff-paste, pour in the mixture, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of powdered ratafias over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. ?Sufficient for three or four persons. Orange Pudding (another way). Boil the thin yellow rinds of two Se%-ille oranges and one sweet one until they are quite soft. Drain them well, and pound them to a paste. Beat a quarter of a povmd of fresh butter to a cream, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the orange paste, the strained juice of the sweet orange, and a table-spoonful of brandy. Whisk four eggs thoroughly, and stir them in with the rest. Line a shallow dish with good puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Orange Pudding, Boiled. Take the thin yellow rind of two Seville oranges, and boil them imtil tender. Drain them well, and pound them to a paste. Pour a pint of boiling milk over a quarter of a poimd of sponge-cakes or finely-gTatcd bread-crumbs ; soak until cold, then add the rind of the oranges, three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the strained juice of a small lemon, two ounces of clarified butter, and four weU-beaten eggs. Mix all thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould which it will quite fiU, tie the mould in a floured cloth, plimge it into boiling water, and let the pudding boil quickly until done enough. A pudding thus made may be steamed or baked as well as boiled. Half a dozen sweet almonds blanched and pounded will greatly improve the flavom-. Time, one hour to boil or steam ; half an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. SufBcient for three or four persons. Orange Punch. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water. Add the strained juice of a small lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a quarter of a pint of orange wine, a quarter of a pint of rum, and, if liked, a glassful of maraschino or curaqea. The punch may be taken either hot or cold, and if bottled and corked closely will keep for some time. A quarter of a pint of calf's-foot jeUy will greatly improve it. Time, a few minutes to dissolve the sugar. Sufficient for three pints of punch. Orange Salad. Peel three or four good oranges, free them from the white skin, and cut them into slices of about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Arrange them neatly in a compote dish, strew three ounces of finely-powdered sugar over them, and pour upon them a wine-glassful of sherry, a wine-glassful of brandy, and another of rum or whisky. C ura9oa or maraschino may be used instead of the above mixture, if prefen-ed. Many persons find no wine so agreeable in an orange salad as port. This dish should, if possible, be made the day before it is wanted. Orange Sauce for Cold Meat. Rub the rind of two sweet oranges upon three or four lumps of sugar. Put these into a basin, and mix with them a wine-glassful of port or claret, a quarter of a pint of dissolved redcurrant jelly, a shallot finely minced, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of thin strips of orange rind. This sauce, if bottled and corked, will keep for some time. It will require to bo dissolved before it is used. Time, five or six minutes to dissolve the jelly. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. ORA ( 480 ) OBA Orange Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl. Boil the yellow rind of two Seville oranges until it is quite tender. Cut it into thin strips about halt' an inch long. Pour over these the strained juice of the oranges, a glassful of sherry or madeira, and a quarter of a pint of white stock. Simmer gently for five or six minutes, then add a pinch of cayenne and a little salt, if required. Serve very hot. Prohable cost, exclusive of the wine, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Orange Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Rub three or four large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a large sweet orange until all the yellow part is taken off. Scrape out the pulp and juice of two oranges, and add them to the flavoured sugar. Mix a tea-spoonful of arrowroot very smoothly with three table-spoonfuls of maraschino or cui-acjoa. Stir all gently over the fire for three or four minutes until the sauce thickens, then serve immediately. Probable cost, exclusive of the liqueur, 2d. Sufficient for three persons. Orange, Seville, Paste for Dessert. Pare the yellow rind from some smoothskinned Seville oranges, and be careful not to take with it the white thin skin which covers the fruit. Throw the rinds into boiling water, and let them keep boiling imtil they are quite tender, then place them upon an inverted sieve, and, as soon as the water has run from them, pound them in a mortar with as much powdered sugar as they will take. Roll the paste out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into shapes with an ordinary pastrj cutter, and put these upon buttered paper in a very slow oven. When they are dry on one side, turn them to the other. Put them in a tin box l etween sheets of ?writing-paper, and store in a warm place. Probable cost of Seville oranges. Is. per dozen. Time, about two hours to boil the rind. Orange-skins, Jelly in {sec Jelly in C range-skins). Orange Snow - balls. Thi-ow half a pound of best Carolina rice loose into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil it quickly for five minutes. Peel four sweet oranges, and carefully remove the thick white skin without injuring the frmt. Drain the rice, and when it is cool spread it out in four equal parts on four small pudding cloths. Place one of the pared oranges on each of these, gather the cloth carefully round it, and tie it secm-ely. Plunge the dmnpHngs into boiling water, and let them remain on the fire until done enough. Turn them out carefully, sprinkle powdered sugar over them, and send orange sauce to table with them. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Orange Souffle. Rub three ounces of ground rice, or, if preferred, dried flour, with two ounces of fresh butter. Pour upon these half a pint of milk sweetened and flavoured with lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the rinds of sweet oranges. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it briskly until it boils. Turn it into a basin, and when cool add the well-beaten yolks of three and the whites of five eggs. Bake in a souffledish, in a moderate oven. Tie a broad band of weU-oiled paper round the top to prevent the batter falling over when it rises high in the dish. Serve the souffle the moment it is taken out of the oven, or it will fall and its appearance be spoilt. Time to bake, haK an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Orange Souffle (another way). Mix a dessei-t-spoonful of flour veiy smoothly with half a pint of new milk or cream. Add the eighth of a small nutmeg grated, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and the thin rind of a sweet orange. Put the mixtui'e into an enamelled saucepan, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Strain through coarse muslin, and when nearly cold add four eggs well beaten, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a heaped table-spoonful of orange marmalade. Stir briskly for two or three minutes, pour the souffle into a buttered mould, and place the mould, without tying it, in a cloth in a saucepan of boiling water, being careful only that the water in the pan is not sufficiently liigh to flow inta the mould. Pin a hot napkin round the mould before serving, and sprinkle pounded sugar over the souffle. Time to boil, thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Orange Sponge. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in haK a pint of water. Strain the liquid, and when it is nearly cool add the juice of seven oranges, two of which should be bitter, and three-quarters of a poimd of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup in as much water as it will absorb. Put the mixture aside until it is quite cold, but not at all stiff. Beat in with \ it the well-whisked whites of three eggs, and continue whisking until the sponge thickens. Timi it into a damp mould, and set it in a cool place until wanted. Time, half an hour to clai-ify the isinglass. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Orange Syrup (for making Orangeade, &c.). Take a dozen sweet oranges and two bitter ones. Rub off the yellow rinds with a pound of sugar in lumps, and boil this with as much water as it will absorb imtil it is quite clear. Strain the juice, add it to the sj-rup, and stir the mixtm-e over the fire for two or three minutes ; it must not boil after the juice is added. Pour at once into bottles, and cork closely as soon as the syrup is cold. As rubbing the rinds of the oranges with sugar involves both time and trouble, the syrup may be more easily made as follows (the flavour, however, will not be quite so fine) :? Cut oft' the yellow rinds of the oranges as thin as possible, and be careful not to take any of the white part. Barely cover them with water, and let them simmer very gently for half an hour. Strain the Hquid, and put it aside to cool. Squeeze and strain the orange-juice, put it in a saucepan over a slow fire for a few minutes, and carefully remove the scimi as it rises. Put a pound of sugar and a table-spoonful of the liquid in which the peels were boiled to each half a pint of juice, and simmer all gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Put the syrup at once into bottles, and when it OBA ( 481 ) ORA is cool cork closely. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Orange Tart or Tartlets. Take two Seville oranges and double their weight in refined sugar. Boil the thin rinds in a little water until tender, then pound them in a mortar, and mix with them the pulp of the fruit which has been fi-eed from the pips and juice, the sugar, and half an ounce of fresh butter. Line the edges of a tart-dish with good puff-paste, put in the orange mixture, cover the dish with crust, fasten the edges securely, and bake in a moderate oven. Or, line some patty-pans with puif-pastry, half fill them with the orange mixture, lay narrow strips of pastry over them as an ornament, and bake as before. Time to bake the tart, three-quarters of an hour ; the tartlets, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. SufiBcient for three or four persons. Orange -water Ice. Rub the rind of two oranges with three or four lumps of sugar until the yellow part is taken off, and dissolve the lumps in a little warm sjTup; if the rind is rubbed too hard the ice wiU be bitter. Strain the juice of six oranges and a lemon, stir into it, with haH a pint of water, a pint of clarified sugar and the flavoured syrup. Mix thoroughly. Strain and freeze in the usual way. Probable cost, Is. Suflacient for a quart of ice. Orange Wine. Orange wine should be made in ilarch. Boil twenty-eight pounds of loaf sugar with eight gallons of water, and the well- whisked whites and crushed shells of four eggs. Remove the scum as it rises, let the liquid cool, then add the juice of ninety Se\-ille oranges, and mix thoroughly. Strain the liquid, ferment it with half a pound of yeast on a toast, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Put it into the 'cask, and when fermentation ceases, which -will be when it gives up hissing, bung the cask up closely. The wine may be racked in three months, and bottled in twelve. If it is desired to add the flavour of the orangepeel to this wine, though it ?w411 be more generally agreeable without, infuse the rinds of fifty of the oranges in two gallons of the clarified sugar for four days, then strain the liquid, and add it to the rest. If it is considered necessary to have a little brandy in the vine, a quart maybe put into the cask with the liquid, and another quart added when the wine is racked off. Time, half an horn- to boil the sugar. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for ten gallons. Orange Wine (an easy way of making). In making orange wine it may be calculated that ten Seville oranges and three pounds of loaf sugar are required for every gallon of wine. If, therefore, it is wished to make nine gallons of wine, put the strained juice of ninety Seville oranges and twenty-seven pounds of loaf sugar into a cask which is perfectly sweet and clry. Put the pulp from which the juice has been squeezed into a large pan, and pom- over it a gallon and a half of water let it stand for twenty-four hours, then strain it into the cask. If the flavour of the orange-rind is desired, though the wine will be more generally agree able without it, peel half the oranges, and put the thin rinds into another pan ; then pour half the quantity of water which was on the pulp over the skins, and let them also infuse twentyfour hours, when strain the liquid into the cask. Pour a gallon and a half of water again over the pulp and rinds, let the water stand for a day, then add it to the rest ; and repeat this performance imtil the cask is quite full, which will be in about a week. Stii" the contents daily. Three days after the cask is full, bung it up closely, and bottle the wine in nine months. It may be used after it has been bottled three months. Time, ten days to make the wine. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. per gallon. Sufiicient for a ninegallon cask. Orangeade. Make a syrup by boiling six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Pour it over the thin yellow rinds of two small oranges, and let them infuse for two or three hours. Strain the juice of six oranges into a glass jug. Add the flavonred syrup, first passing it through a jellybag, and a pint and a half of cold water. Drink the orangeade cold. A glassful of calf 's-f oot stock is an improvement. Time, two or three hom-s to infuse the rinds. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for two pints and a half. Orangeade (at all seasons). Pom- a pint of brandy, or rectified spirits of wine, over the thin rind and strained juice of two oranges. Cover the infusion closely, and leave in a warm place for six weeks, shaking it every day. At the end of that time filter it through muslin, and put it into small bottles. Cork these closely, and store them until wanted. When orangeade is required, it is only necessary to dissolve a small lump of sugar in half a pint of spring water, and add a dessert-spoonful of the orange-flavoured spmt. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint of orangeade. Oranges and Apples, Compote of. Take half a dozen fine sweet apples and three oranges. Eub the skins well with a soft cloth, and cut them across in very thin round slices. Arrange the pieces alternately in a circle in a glass dish, with one piece half over the other, and pour over them a sjTup made according to the directions given in a succeeding recipe (see Oranges, Compote of). Serve when cold. Time, five or ten minutes to boil the syrup. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Oranges and Apples, Florentine of [see Florentine of Oranges and Apples). Oranges, Coloured, for Dessert. Crush three or four ounces of doubly-refined sugar to powder. Pour over it a few drops of prepared cochineal, and move the sugar about with the fingers until it is all equally coloured, then put the dish which contains it on the fender until it is quite dry. Peel half a dozen ripe oranges, free them entirely from the thick white skin and thready parts, but be very careful not to pierce the fruit itseH. Poll the oranges in the coloured sugar, arrange them neatly on a dish, and garnish with sprigs of mjTtle. Time, a quarter of an hour to dry the sugar. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six persons. ORA (482 ) ORA Oranges, Compote of. Pare the rind very thinly otf three or four large sound oranges. Cut the fruit across into halves, remo\-ing the ?white skin and pips, and pile the oranges in a glass dish. Boil the rind with half a pint of -water and a qviarter of a pound of sugar until the s\Tup is clear; mix a table-spoonful of "brandy with it, and strain it over the fruit. "When cold it is ready to serve. A table-spoonful of arrowroot may be mixed with the sp-up to thicken it, and two or thi-ee drops of cochineal may be put by way of colouring. Time, five or ten minutes to boil the sj-rup. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 4d. Sufficient for three or foiu' persons. Oranges Pilled with Jelly. When a large variety of dishes is required, orange-skins are sometimes emptied entu-ely of the fruit, cut out in the shape of baskets, and filled with bright clear jelly of different colours. They look pretty ; very great care and a sharp knife, however, are requii-ed to make them. The handle of the basket should be cut across the stalk-end of the fruit, and should bo fuUy half A OKA 'GES FILLED WITH JELLY. an inch wide. The basket-part should take up half of the orange. The best way to make these baskets is to mark out their shape first without piercing the fruit, then talie away the quarters of the rind which will not be required, and pass the flat part of a tea-spoon carefully under the handle to separate it from the fruit, which must then be pressed out through the empty spaces. The jelly should be nearly cold before it is put into the skins. Probable cost, oranges. Id. each. Sufficient, eight for a dish. Oranges in Syrup (a dessert dish). Peel four or five large oranges, and remove all the white pith and thready parts without injuring in the shghtest degi'ee the thin transparent skin which covers the fi-uit. Boil half a pound of loaf sugar in a quarter of a pint of water to a clear syrup, add a wine-glassful of maraschino or any other liqueur or spirit that may be preferred, and pour the hot hquid over the oranges. Let them remain for three or fom- hours, then ?turn them over ; boil the syrup up once more, and pour it again upon the oranges. Serve in a compote dish, and garnish with sprigs of myrtle. The quantity of sugar used for the syrup must depend upon the season, and if it is early in the winter, and the oranges are sour, a larger proportion of sugar shoiild be used, and besides this the oranges should be boiled in the syrup for a few minutes. Time, ten minutes to" boil the _ syrup. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oranges, Moulded (a pretty supper dish). This dish, though very pretty, is rather difficult to prepare. Peel three or four large oranges, being careful not to break the thin slan which divides them. Oil a small plain mould MOULDED OriANGES. thoroughly. Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in three table-spoonfuls of water to crackling height, dip the edges of the orange-sections into this, arrange them in layers round the sides only of the mould, and fasten them together with the sugar. 'V\Tien they are firm, turn them on a dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream. Time, ten or twelve minutes to boil the sugar. Probable cost, exclusive of the cream, 6d. Sufficient for a small mould. Oranges, Pickled. Take half a dozen fine Seville oranges. Cut them deeply, rub them well with salt, and let them stand in a warm place for four or five days. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of coriander-seeds over them, and cover them with a pint and a half of boiling -vonegar in which two blades of mace have been simmered for two minutes. Boil the vinegar once or twice, and pour it again upon the oranges, then cover the jar -with bladder, and store for use. This pickle ought to be kept fully two months before it is used. It should be served with wild fowl. Time, six or eight minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Oranges Preserved Whole. Take some Seville oranges. Weigh them, and allow two pounds of sugar to every pound of fruit. Scrape or grate ofl: the thin outside of the rind. Make a small hole about the size of a sixpence in the top of each, and scoop out the pulp. Lay the oranges in cold water, and let them remain for three days, changing the water twice a daj . Drain the oi-anges, put them into a large pan with as much cold water as will cover them, and boil them gently until they are tender. Boil the sugar to a syrup, putting half a pint of water to every pound of sugar. Add the pulp and juice ; let all boil together for ten minutes, then skim carefully, pour the sjTup over the oranges, and let them stand for an hour or two. Put them back into the preserving-pan, and simmer gently until the oranges look clear, which should be in about half an hour, but if this is not the case, turn the fiiiit into a bowl, boil the sjTup cverj' day for three days, and pour it hot upon the oranges. The juice of a lemon may be added to the s Tnip if this is Hked. Put the oranges side by side the holes uppermost into large shallow jars, pour the syrup over them, cover closely, and store in a cool dry ORA (483 ) ORT place. They will be ready for use in six or eight days. Probable cost of oranges, Is. per dozen. Oranges Preserved Whole, Carved. The rind of oranges preserved as above, instead of being scraped otf may be carved rather deeply in leaves, intersected lines, or any fanciful devices, and then emptied, soaked in water for three or four- days, and boiled in syrup. They should be filled with as well as boiled in, the syrup, and it is best to boil this every day for four- days, and pour it hot upon the oranges. Time, eight days to prepare. Probable cost of oranges, Is. per dozen. Orgeat {fcc Mmond SjTup, or Orgeat). Orgeat Ice Cream. Take one ounce of sweet almonds and two or three bitter ones. Blanch and pound them in a mortar with a little orange-flower water to prevent them oiling. Add gradually a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, and a pint ? of cream . Put the mixture into an enamelled saucepan, and stir it without ceasing until it begins to thicken. Pour it out, stir it again until it is cold, then freeze in the usual way. Time, five or six minutes to stir the mixture over the fire. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of ice cream. Orgeat or Almond Milk (a refreshing drink). Take two ounces of Jordan almonds and four bitter ones. Blanch them, put them into a mortar with two ounces of powdered sugar, and pound thenr to a smooth paste, and whilst pounding them keep di-opping half a tea-spoonful of cold water on them to prevent oiling. Put them into a basin, and pour gradually over them a pint of cold water, stir them for thi'ce or foui* minutes, cover tliem over, and leave them in a cool place for two hours. Strain the hqmd thi'ough a napkin into a glass jug, and put it, if possible, in ice until wanted for use. Before serving, mix with the almond milk an equal proportion of cold water. Orgeat should be made the day it is used, as it will not keep sweet long. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for a pint of orgeat. Orgeat, Syrup of (for flavouring sauces, cream, &c.). Take half a pound of sweet almonds and two ounces of bitter ones. Blanch and pound them in a mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding a few drops of orange-ilower water to prevent oiling. Stir in by degi'oes two pints of cold water; add two pounds and a half of powdered and sifted sugar, two ounces of orange-flower water, and two drachms of the essence of lemon. Put the mixture into a warm place for five or six hoxirs, then boil for ten minutes. Strain through a calico bag, and press out all the milk of the almonds. If the s a up is not sufficiently thick, it should be boiled again on the following day. When it is cold, bottle for use. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two quarts of orgeat. Orleans Plum. This is a handsome fruit which takes its name from a district in France. It is not so good as it looks, but is more cultivated than even the greengage, which is both the most agreeable and the most wholesome of all the plums. Orleans Plums (to bottle for vinter use). Have in readiness some i erfcctly clean and dry wide -necked bottles. Pick the fruit, which must be sound and freslily gathered, rub it well with a soft cloth, taking care not to injure the skins, and put it into the bottles ; fill these up A dth a syrup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound of sugar with half a pint of water for ten minutes. Cork the bottles closely, tie a piece of moistened bladder over them, and put them in a large pan of water over a gentle fire. Let the water boil for a quarter of an hour, then lift the pan off the fire, leaving the bottles in the pan until the water is cold. Store the fruit in a dry place. Probable cost of plums, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Orleans Plums (to bottle for winter use) , another way. Prepare the plums as in the last recipe. Weigh them, and put them in perfectly dry bottles or jars with half a pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Put the sugar in after the fruit, and do not shake it down. Tie moistened bladder over the tops of the bottles, and put them up to their necks in a saucepan of cold water. 13ring them slowly to the boil, then let them simmer gently for three hours. Lift the pan from the fire, and let the bottles remain in the water until it is cold. Store in a dry place. Probable cost of plums, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Orleans Pudding. Put one ounce of gelatine into a basin with a quarter of a pint of cold water, and let it soak for half an hour. Whisk the yolks of five eggs thoroughly, and add very gradually a pint of hot milk or cream, and six ounces of powdered sugar: Put the custard into an enamelled saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir until it begins to thicken; add the soaked gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Put half an ounce of picked currants, half an ounce of stoned raisins, and an oimce of fiinely-minced candied peel into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of brandy, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Oil a plain roimd mould; spread a thin layer of cream at th-e bottom, say about half an inch in thickness ; strew a little of the fruit upon this, and let it set, and then a layer of Naples biscuits finely crumbled, and a layer of crushed ratafias. Repeat until the mould is full. Put the pudding into a cool place until it is firmly set ; if possible, place it in ice. Turn it on a dish, and garnish vfiih dried cherries and strips of candied peel. Time, ten minutes to thicken the pudding. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ortolans. These birds, though small and very rare, are much esteemed by epicures for the delicacy of their flesh. They are in season from November to Februarj-. Ortolans, Potted. Cut off the necks, heads, and legs of some ortolans, and season them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Prepare some chicken forcemeat the quantity to be regulated by the size of the potting-pan and the number of ortolans. Spread a layer ORT (484) OX of forcemeat at the bottom of the pan, place an ortolan upon it, and then some more forcemeat, and continue until the pan is full, remembering only that the topmost layer should consist of forcemeat. Lay some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, put on the cover, and bake in a moderate oven. Two or three trufHes finely minced, and spread upon the layers of forcemeat, are a great improvement to this dish. To be served cold. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, uncertain, ortolans being seldom offered for sale. ORTOLA S Ortolans, Roasted. Truss the ortolans without drawing them. Lay first a vine-leaf and then a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each, and tie the leaf and bacon on with string. Put the birds down to a brisk fire, and baste them liberally. Dish upon toast which has been placed under them whilst they were roasting, and garnish the dish with watercresses. Send orange gravy to table in a tureen. Time, twenty-five minutes to roast. Probable cost, uncertain, ortolans being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, half a dozen for six persons. Ortolans, Stewed, with Truflles. Take as many large even-sized truffles as there are ortolans. Make a large round hole in the middle of each trufile, and put in it a little chicken forcemeat. Cut off the heads, necks, and feet of the ortolans, season them with a little salt and pepper, and lay each bird on its back in one of the truffles. Arrange them side by side in a deep stew-pan, lay thin slices of bacon upon them, pour over them in equal proportions as much good stock and madeira as will cover them, and simmer them very gently for twenty-five minutes. Dish the ortolans and the truffles on toast, and pile them high in the dish. Strain the gravy, thicken it to the consistency of cream, and pour it over the birds. Sufficient, half a dozen for four persons. Oswego Cakes. Rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Add four ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, six ounces of Oswego, a table-spoonful of milk, and three well- whisked eggs. Flavour the cakes according to taste, either with currants, caraway-seeds, candied peel, grated nutmeg, or essence of lemon. Beat the mixture briskly for a quarter of an hour, half fill vsdth it some well-oiled small moulds, and bake in a good oven. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. Oude Curry. Take any cold meat, beef, mutton, game, or poultry, and di\'ide it into convenient-sized pieces. Cut a large Spanish onion into thin slices ; fry these in four ounces of butter, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of good gravy. Mix a small table- spoonful of curry-powder smoothly with the sauce ; add the pieces of meat, and simmer all gently together for two hours. Before serving the curry, add a dessert-spoonful of strained lemonjuice. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four persons. Oude Sauce for Cold Meat. Mince two onions very finely. Fry them in two ounces of clarified butter, and stii- them about until they are lightly bro'wTied without beingburnt. Add haK a dozen cliillies cut into small pieces, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of salt, and one ounce of the flesh -of a dried haddock which has been torn into flakes with two forks. Stir all well together for three or four minutes, and whilst stirring add, in small quantities at a time, a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, two table- spoonfuls of tomato-pulp, and a little water. When the sauce is as thick as paste it is ready for ser\dng. It should be made the day on which it is to be used. Time, altogethei', about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oven, American {see American Oven). Ox Brains (en Matelote). Take half a dozen button-onions. Put them whole into a stewpan with an oimce and a half of fresh butter, and move them about until they are soft and yellow. Dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour over them, and moisten with nearly half a pint of good stock and a glassful of red wine. Add a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of winter savoury, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a drachm of cayenne, half a blade of mace, and three or four small mushrooms if they are at hand. Simmer the sauce gently for half an hour. Clean the ox-brains very carefully, and remove all the skin and fibrous parts. Lay them in lukewarm water to soak, then take them up and drain them, put them into the sauce, and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Serve on a hot dish ; remove the herbs from the sauce, and pour it upon them. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Ox Brains, Fried. Wash the brains carefully in two or three waters, remove all the blood, sikin, and fibre, and lay them in warm water to blanch. Put them into boiling salt and water, and simmer gently for half an hour. Drain them, make them into balls the size of a small egg, dip them into beaten egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot fat until they are brightly browned all over. Place them on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a small lemon ox (48o ) OX over them, and gamisli with slices of cut lomon and parsley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Ox Cheek, Baked. "Wash a large fresh ox cheek in two or three waters, then let it soak for some hours in cold water. Drain it well, and put it into lukewarm water, let it boil, skim the liquid carefully, and simmer the cheek gently for a couple of hours. Take it up, remove the bones, lay the cheek on a flat board, and spread upon it a layer of good veal forcemeat, lioll it firmly, bind securely Avith tape, and bake in a moderate oven. Place it on a hot dish, remove the tapes, and send tomato, piquant, or good brown sauce, to table with it. Time, one hour and a half to bake the cheek. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Suflicient for seven or eight persons. Ox Cheek, Boiled. Many excellent and economical dishes may be made from an ox cheek, which is highly gelatinous and nourishing, and often proves very useful in largo families. Take a moderate-sized ox cheek, or half a large one. Wash carefully, and soak it in cold water for five or six hours. Drain it, rub it well with a table-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonfid of pepper, and put it into a large pan with four quarts of cold water, two or three sticks of celery, and two onions. When it boils, skim carefully, draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer verj' gently until it is quite tender, which will be in three hours from the time of boiling. Place the head on a dish with a little of the gravy, and send turnips, carrots, and potatoes to table with it. The liquid will make excellent broth. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufiicient for six or eight persons. Ox Cheek Cheese [see Cheese, Ox Cheek). Ox Cheek, Cold. Cut the remains of an ox cheek which has been boiled until quite tender into neat slices. Arrange these on a dish, and pour over them a sauce prepared as follows : Beat the yolk of an egg for two or three minutes, then mix -with it half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a pinch of pepper and salt, eight table-spoonfuls of oil, and two table-spoonfuls of tarragon \dnegar. The oil should be put in first in very small quantities at a time, and the sauce should be well beaten between each addition, or the oil will not mix well. Garnish the dish with parsley, and send bread and butter to table with it. Time, half an hour to beat the sauce. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. Ox Cheek, Potted (a breakfast or supper lish) . Pick the meat from an ox cheek which has been simmered until it is quite tender. Mince it verj finely, and mix with it a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, u quarter of a nutmeg grated, and a tablespoonful of powdered thjone. Put it in a plain mould, cover with a dish, and place a weight upon the top. Serve cold. Time, four hours to simmer the ox cheek. Probable cost of ox cheek, 6d. per pound. SuflBcient for six or eight persons. Ox Cheek, Sliced and Pried. Cut the remains of a cold ox cheek which has been boiled or stewed until quite tender into neat slices, and dip these into egg and bread-crumbs, grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Servo on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost of ox cheek, 6d. per pound. Ox Cheek Soup. Wash an ox cheek thoroughly in lulccwarm water, then put it into a large saucej an with two ounces of lean ham, an onion stuck with twelve cloves, a turnip, two can-ots, three or four sticks of celery, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a table-spoonful of salt, . a bay-leaf, and three quarts of water. Bi-ing the liquid to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently for four hours. Take up the cheek, cut off about haK a pound of the meat in slices haK an inch thick, and put it back into the broth. Mix two table- spoonfuls of ground rice or plain flour with two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and half a table-spoonful of soy ; add this to the soup, and simmer it an hour longer. Turn a large carrot and turnip into the shape of peas, oUves, (Src, according to fancy, peel and trim neatly a quarter of a pint of button-onions, cut the slices of ox cheek into inch square pieces, and fry all these in hot butter until they are tender and lightly browned. Strain the soup, return it to the pan with the fried vegetables, &c., boil them together for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve. Time altogether, six hours. Probable cost. Is. per quart. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Ox Cheek, Stewed. Prepare the ox cheek as in the last recipe. Let it sinuner for two hours, then take it up, drain it, and put the liquid aside to cool. Remove the thick layer of fat which will collect on the top, and put it back into the stewpan with the ox cheek. Let it bon once more, then add a large onion with six cloves stuck in it, a basinful of mixed vegetables cut into small pieces, and consisting of three turnips, three carrots, two leeks, three sticks of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thjine, two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a little more salt, if required. Simmer two hours longer. Take up the meat, cut it into neat slices. Strain the gravy. Thicken one pint and a half of it -with a little butter rolled in flour-, and serve the slices in a dish with the sauce poured over them. A glassful of red wine may be stirred into this sauce, or it may be drawn from the fire for a minute or two, and then mixed with the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs ; or a little lemon- juice may be squeezed over the meat, and the sauce poured over afterwards. Probable cost of ox cheek, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Ox Eyes. Cut some slices of stale bread three-quai-ters of an inch in thickness. Toast them, stamp them in rounds three inches in diameter, and take out of the middle of each round a smaller round one inch and a half in ox ( iSG ) OX diameter ; he careful to leave the rings firm and unbroken. Place them on a -well-buttered dish, and let them soak in sour cream until they are soft, then lay a raw egg in the middle of each ring. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and put a tea-spoonful of milk on each egg. Put them in a hot oven, and let them remain until the whites are set, but they must not brown. Garnish with water-cresses. Time, ten minute* to set the eggs. Probable cost of haK a dozen ox eyes, 8d. Ox Feet Jelly {see Wa}-land Jelly, Ox Feet). Ox Heart, Baked. Wash the heart in several waters. Cut away the lobes, and let it soak for twelve hours in vinegar and water. Drain, and slice into thin steaks cut the longway of the heart. Grease a pie- dish, and lay some sliced jiotatoes at the bottom of it. Put two or three rashers of bacon on these, then the heart, then bacon again, and afterwards more potatoes, and repeat until the dish is full, being careful to put potatoes on the top of all. Dredge a little pepper over each layer as it is put in, and salt if required. This -will depend upon the quality of the bacon. Pour half a pint of water over the whole, and bake in a moderate oven. A little browning added to the gra-vy will improve the appearance. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. Ox Heel Stock for Jelly {see Stock for JeUy, O.-cHeel). Ox Kidney {see Kidney, Ox, Stewed). Ox Liver, To Cure and Preserve, for Gravy. Mix half a pound of moist sugar with two tablo-spoonfuls of salt. Rub the liver Weil with this mixture, lay it in a shallow pan, and turn it and rub it every day for a week. Make a pickle by boiling a pound of salt and an ounce and a half of saltpetre in a gallon of water for a quarter of an hour. Pour it when cold over the liver, and let the liver remain in the pickle for six weeks, turning it e- ery other day. Take it out, drain it well, and hang it in a cool place. When dry, it is ready for use. The liver should be cured in cold weather. When gra\'y is required, cut about four ounces of the liver into thin slices. Pour over them a pint of cold water and any flavouring that may be wished, and simmer gently for threequarters of an hour. Strain and serve. Salt will not be needed. Probable cost of liver, 9d. per pound. Ox Palates. Ox palates may be serv ed in three or four different ways, but they always require the same preparation. They deserve to bo better known than they are, as they are both inexpensive and wholesome. Three or four are enough for a dish. To prepare them, dissolve a handful of salt in a gallon of lukewarm water, put in the palates, let them lie for several hours, and press them frequently with the fingers to draw out the mucus. Drain them, and put them in a saucepan of cold water over a gentle fire. Let them heat gradually, and before the water boils hft them out and scrape off the homy skin which covers the roof-ijart until they look white and clear. If the water boils, the skin -wiU be difBcult to peel off. Ox Palates, Curried. Soak and boil tlu-ee ox palates as before directed. Press them between dishes, and when cold cut them into pieces an inch and a half square. Put three sliced onions and one apple into a ste-w] )an -with two ounces of butter. Cover them closely and let them steam until they are tender, but they they must not bro-wTi. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder very smootlily with half a pint of good gvaxj. Pour this into the saucepan, and add a tea-spoonful of \'inegar, a dessertspoonful of brandy, a smaU lump of sugar, a little salt and pepper if required, and the sliced palates. Simmer gently for half an hour, then take out the palates, and strain the gravy. Mix a dessert-spoonful of ground rice verjsmoothly with a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Thicken the gravy with this, put in the palates again, and boil gently half an hour longer. Serve the palates on a hot dish, with a border of rice boiled as for curry round it. Sufficient for thi-ee or foiu- persons. Ox Palates, Grilled. Prepare four ox palates as before directed. Put them into a stewpan -ndth as much water or stock as -will cover them, and let them boil until they are quite tender, then di'ain them, and press them between two dishes imtil they are cold. Cut them in slices two inches long and hjiif an inch wide, lay these in a pie-dish, and cover them with a marinade made of a quarter of a pint of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of sweet-oU, half a tea-spoonfid of pepper, a spoonful of salt, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen chives, and two or three bay -leaves. When they have soaked in this for an hour or two, drain them, cpvcr them with crumbs of bread, and fry them in Tiot fat until they become brown. Or, after they are taken out of the maiinade, make a paste by mixing a heaped table-spoonful of fioiu- very smoothly with the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and adding a table-spoorJul of sweet-oil, a little salt and pepper, and a glassful of sherry. Dip the slices of palate in this batter, and fry them as before. Drain the fat carefully from them, and dish them in a circle on a hot dish. Send piquant or tomato sauce to table with them. Time, four hours to boil the palates ; five minutes to fry them. Sufficient for four persons. Ox Palates Stewed. Prepare and boil thi'ee palates as before directed. Cut them into pieces, and place them in a ste-wpan with threequarters of a pint of brown gra-vy, and a -wineglassful of sherry or port. Let them simmer gently for half an hour, then thicken the gravy with a little rice-flour, and serve very hot. Ox tails may be stewed and dished -with the ox palates. The slices of palate are sometimes larded and lightly browned before being stewed. Time to boirthe palates, four hours. Sufficient ' for three persons. Ox Palates with Macaroni. Skin and boil three palates as before directed. Press them between two dishes, and when cold cut the best part into slices two inches long and half an inch -wide. Put them into a stewpan, cover them -with nicely-seasoned gra-vy, add a glassful of sherry, and simmer very gently for half an hour. Pile half a pound of hot ox ( -iS- ) ox macaroni in the middle of a dish, arrange the sliced palates round it, and send the g avy in which they were stewed to table in a tiu-een. Time, four hours to boil the palates. Sufficient for foiu- persons. Ox, Sectional Diagram of the {src illustration in connection with the article on Beef). Ox Tail, Breaded and Broiled. This is an excellent way of serving the remains ?f stewed ox tails. If made with fresh meat, joint and cut up the tails, put them into boiling water, and let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, then soak them in cold water for one hour. Take them up, ch-ain them, and put them into a saucepan with as much broth or water as will cover them, and let them stew until tender; then lift them out carefully, and when they are cold season them with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over them a little finelyminced parsley and shallot. Dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, then in clarified butter, and again in egg and bread-crumbs, and broil on a gi'idiron until they are brightly browned all over ; or, if more convenient, place them in a dripping-tin with a little clarified butter, and let them bake imtU they are brightly browned. They may be dished on mashed spinach, mashed potatoes, or stewed cabbage, or, if preferred, served without vegetables, with piquant sauce, tomato sauce, shallot gravy, or Tartar sauce, in a tureen. Time, about two hours to stew the tails ; three or four minutes to broil them ; twenty minutes to bake them. Probable cost, from Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient, two tails for five or six persons. Ox Tail, Haricot of. Take two fresh ox tails, joint them, and di\-ido them into convenient-sized pieces. Put them into boiling water, and let them simmer for a quarter of an hour; then take them up, di-ain them, and trim them neatly. Cover the bottom of a stewjjan with any trimmings of meat or poultiy that may be at hand ; put in the pieces of ox tail, and with them a large onion stuck with fourcloves, a few sticks of celery, a large bamch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a piece of garlic the size of a small pea, a quarter of a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of salt, a dozen peppercorns, and two quarts of water or stock. Let them boil, then sinmier gently until the meat will part easily from the bone. Carefully lift out the pieces of ox tail, and put them aside ; strain the gi-avy, and return it to the saucepan. When it boils thicken with a little flour and butter, and put into it half a pound of carrots and half a pound of tirmips neatly shaped, and sLx or eight mediumsized onions. Boil gently until the vegetables are tender, skim the sauce carefully, and put in the pieces of ox tail. Add a little more salt and pepper if required, and a table-spoonful of bro NTiing; simmer ten minutes longer, and serve verj' hot. A pint of white haricot beans are a great improvement to this dish They should be put to soak the day before they are wanted, and boiled separately in plenty of water until tender ; then drained, and put as a border round the dish in which the stew is served. Time, two hours and a half or more to boil the tails. Probable cost of tails. Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Ox Tail Hotcll-potch {see Hotch-potch, Ox Tail). Ox Tail, Simple Mode of Cooking. Take a fresh ox tail, joint it, and cut it into pieces about two inches long. Poll the pieces in flour, place them side by side in a baking-dish, and sprinlvle over them a little pepper and salt, a finely -minced onion, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour a pint of stock or water upon them, and bake in a moderate oven. Servo on a hot dish with the gravy upon them. Time to bake, thi-ee hours and a half. Probable cost of ox tail, Is. to 2s. Sufficient for thi'ce persons. Ox Tail Soup, Clear. Cut a fine fresh ox tail into pieces an inch long, and divide the thick part into four. Wash these pieces, and throw them into boiling water for a quarter of an hour ; then drain, and wipe them with a soft cloth. Put them into a stewpan with two carrots, an onion stuck with three cloves, a sprig of parsley, a small jjiece of thyme, two or three sticks of celerj-, half a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, six or eight peppercorns, and a quart of water or clear stock. Bfeil, remove the scimi carefully as it rises, then di-aw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer very gently until the meat is tender. Lift out the pieces of ox tail, strain the soup, and if it is not clear and bright clarify it according to the directions given for clarifying soup. Turn three carrots and two tm-nips into any small shapes that may be preferred, or into thin shreds an inch long, being careful only that they are all of the same size. Other vegetables may be used as weU as turnips and carrots such as French beans, gi-een peas, asparagus, celery, or onions. Put these into a saucepan, pour the clarified stock over them, and simmer gently until the vegetables are tender. Heat the pieces of ox tail, pour the soup upon, them, and serve as hot as possible. Time, about three hours to simmer the ox tail. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Ox Tail Soup, Thick. Tliis soup is, of course, much better if made with stock instead of water. If no stock is at hand, two pennyworth of fresh bones simmered gently with three quarts of water for six hom-s, and carefully skimmed, vriR make nearly two quarts of very good stock; or, if prefeiTcd, it can be made ifrom fresh meat. Take two fine ox tails, wash them, cut them into pieces about an inch long, and divide the thick pieces into four. Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and fry them imtil they are brightly browned. Slice some vegetables two carrots, one turnip, two onions, and half a dozen sticks of celery, and fry them in the same butter, and with them two ounces of lean ham cut into dice. Pour over them a quart of water, and stir it over a quick fire for a quarter of an hour ; then add two quarts of stock, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, a dessert-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, three cloves, and a limip of sugar. Simmer gently ox (488) OX until the meat is tender and parts easily from the bones, then take it out, strain the soup, skim the fat from the top of the liquid, bro-mi it in a saucepan, and mix smoothly -with it two ounces of tine flour. Thicken the soup with this, and flavour it with two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, add the pieces of tail, simmer a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. If preferred, the vegetables may be crushed through a colander, and added to the soup in the form of a puree. A glasrful of port may be added or not. Serve fresh rolls with this soup. Time, four hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Suflicient for a dozen persons. Ox Tail, Stewed. Take a fine ox tail, disjoint it, cut it into pieces about one inch and a half long, and divide the thick parts into quarters. Throw these pieces into boiling ?water, and let them remain for a quarter of an hour ; then drain them, and soak them in cold ?water for an hour. Take them up, wipe them with a soft cloth, and put them into a ste-n-pan with two quarts of stock or water, a large onion stuck with three cloves, three carrots, a bimch of savourj' herbs, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently until the meat parts easily from the bones, then put the pieces on a hot dish, reduce the gravy, strain it over them, and garnish with toasted sippets. A little lemonjuice is by some persons considered an improvement. Time, three hours and a half to stew the tail. Probable cost, 2s. Suflicient for three or four persons. Ox Tail, Stewed, with Green Peas or Spinach. Stew the ox tail according to the directions given in the last recipe. When the meat is tender, lift it out, strain the gra,Yj, and reduce it to half the quantity. Pour it again over the meat, let it simmer a few minutes, then serve the stew, neatly arranged in a circle on a hot dish, -with green peas or spinach in the centre. Time, three hours and a half to stew the ox tail. Probable cost of ox tails, Is. to 2s. each. Suflicient for three or four persons. Ox Tail with Matelote Sauce. Take a large fresh ox tail, disjoint it, cut it into pieces two inches long, and blanch these in boiling water for a quarter of an hour; then take them up, drain then, and soak them in cold water for three-quarters of an hour. Put them in a saucepan, cover them with broth or ?water, bring them to the boil, then simmer them gently for two hours. Take them up, strain the sauce, thicken three-quarters of a pint ?of it with a dessert-spoonful of flour and a little butter, add a dozen and a half of small fried onions, and a dozen button mushrooms (or, as a substitute, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup), a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thj-me and basil, a bayleaf, and a little salt and pepper. Stew gently and skim carefully until the meat parts easily from the bones. Then add a pounded anchovj', a little grated nutmeg, and a glassful of claret. Boil up again, and serve the ox tail piled in the centre of a hot dish; garnish with toasted .sippets, and strain the sauce over all. Time altogether, three hours and a haK to stew the ox tail. Suflicient for three persons. Probable cost of ox tail, from Is. to 23. Ox Tail with Piquant Sauce. Take a fresh ox tail, disjoint it, and cut it into pieces two inches long. Put these pieces into boiling water for a quarter of an horn-, then soak them in cold water for three-quarters of an hoiu-. Drain the pieces well, and wipe them with a soft cloth. Place them in a saucepan, cover with a pint of stock or water, and bring them gradually to the boil. Remove the scum as it rises, and put in with the meat two sliced onions, two sliced carrots, a piece of garlic about the size of a small pea, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bayleaf, three cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently until the tail is tender and the meat parts easily from the bones. Lift the meat out carefully, strain the sauce, stir into it a glass of sherry or madeii-a, a pinch of cayenne, four or five button onions, a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of pickled gherkins finely minced, and a little brown thickening-. Put back the pieces of meat, let them simmer half an hour longer, and serve them piled up in the centre of a hot dish with the gravy poured over them. Time, three hours to stew the ox tail. Probable cost of ox tail, from Is. to 2s., according to the season. Sufficient for three persons. Ox Tongue. Ox tongues are generally preferred either pickled or smoked, though they are occasionally cooked when fresh. Recipes for both are given. A fresh tongue, after being trimmed, should be soaked in plenty of cold ox TONGUE. water for one hour before it is cooked, a green tongue just taken out of pickle for four hours, and a salted and dried tongue for twenty-four hours. In choosing a tongue, select a plump one with a smooth skin, which is a sign that it is young and tender. If the thin part of a tongue is not eaten it should be preserved and dried. It will grate like hung beef, and will be found excellent for flavouring omelettes, and also for making tongue toast. Ox Tongue, Boiled. Soak the tongue. Put it into a ste\s'pan with plenty of cold water, an onion stuck wuth cloves, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Bring the water very gradually to the "boil, then draw the saucepan "to the side, and simmer gently from three to four hours, according to'the "size. When the tongue is done enough this may be ascertained by pushing a skewer into it ; if the skewer will enter easily, the tongue is done plunge it at once into cold water, when the fm-red coating can be easily drawn off. If the tongue is to be ox (489) OX eaten hot, wrap it in greased paper, and warm it in hot water for about twenty minutes, after taking off the skin. Glaze it over two or three times until it looks clear, and send it to table with mashed turnips, boiled carrots, or stewed cabbage, or with tomato or piquant sauce. If it is to be eaten cold, place the root end against a board, and put a strong fork into the top and the end in order to bend it into a nice shape, and let it remain until it is hrmly set. Glaze it, and before sending it to table ornament the root with a neat frill of cut paper. Or, roll the tongue that is, turn the tliick part into the middle, and press the tongue into a plain round mould just large enough to hold it put a dish with a weight upon it, and let it remain some hours. Glaze round it, and carve it hke a fillet of veal. Tongue which is to be eaten ?old should be allowed to cool in the liquid in which it was boiled. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. each. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Ox Tongue, Cured. Cut away the root, which may afterwards be stewed for stock, leave a Mttle of the fat, and trim the tongue neatly. Eub it well -ft th common salt, and leave it until the next day; drain, and dry it. Mi.x together one ounce of pounded saltpetre, two ounces of moist sugar, and half a pound of salt. Dry them well, and rub every part of the tongue thoroughly with the powder. Turn it and rub it again every day for three weeks, when it will be ready for cooking, or, if not wanted immediately, for drying or smoking. Probable cost, 4s. to 68. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Ox Tongue, Fresh, Boiled. Soak a fresh ox tongue for an hour or more. Trim it neatly, and put it into a large stewpan with plenty of cold water, a bunch of savoury herbs, an onion stuck with three cloves, half a dozen peppercorns, and a table-spoonful of salt. Let it boil, then draw the saucejjan to the side of the fire, and simmer very gently for three hoxrrs. Ascertain whether the tongue is done enough by pushing a skewer into it, then take off the outer skin, serve the meat on a hot dish, and send piquante or tomato sauce to table in a tiireen. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for eight or "nine persons. Ox Tongue, Fresh, Larded. Soak the tongue, and boil it gently for about three hours. Take off the rough skin, and lard the upper part of the tongue evenly with strips of fat bacon. Put it again into the saucepan -with as much of the liquor in which it was boiled as will cover it, a dozen fried button onions, a little pepper and salt, and an ounce and a half of butter, roUed thickly in flour. Stew gently for an hour. A quarter of an hour before the t?ngue is taken up, put with it a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and a glassful of port. Serve the tongue on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 48. to 6s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Ox Tongue, Fresh, Roasted. Soak the tongue, and boil it gently for about three hours. Brain it, take off the skin, trim the root neatly, stick about a dozen cloves into it, 32 and roast before a clear fire, basting it well ' with good dripping or butter. Serve on a i hot dish, and send half a pint of good brown ' gravy to table with it. If preferred, the tongue may be egged and bread-crumbed before being j roasted. Red-currant jelly should be eaten I with roasted tongue. Time to roast, half an ' hour. Probable cost, 43. to 63. Sufficient for j eight or nine persons. Ox Tongue, Fresh, Stewed. Soak a fresh ox tongue for about an hour. Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with plenty of cold water. Bring it slowly to a boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer very gently until it is done enough. Take off the skin. Brown a table-spoonful of flour in two ounces of butter; add as much of the liquid in which the tongue was boiled as will make the sauce of the thickness of cream, and put with it a finely-minced onion, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, haH a table -spoonful of bruised capers, two sardines, a little sliced lemon, and salt and cayenne to taste. Simmer the tongue in this sauce for about an hour, place it on a hot dish, boil the sauce up once more with a table-spoonful of vinegar and a glassful Ol sherry or madeira, pour it over the tongue, and serve immediately. Time, altogether, about four hours. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Ox Tongue, Pickled. Prepare the tongue in the usual way. Soak and dry it, and put it into a deep earthen pan with two dozen peppercorns, a bunch of basil, and a bunch of thyme. Make a pickle by boiling an ounce of saltpetre, an ounce of salprunella, a pound and a half of bay salt, and a pound of moist sugar in a gallon of water for twenty minutes. Let it get quite cold, then cover the tongue with this, and let it remain for ten days or a fortnight, the duration of the time to depend upon the season of the year: it should be longer in winter than in summer. When the tongue is taken out of the pickle it should be rubbed well with a dry cloth, and either cooked at once, or himg up to drj-. It is always best when cooked straight out of the pickle. This pickle may be used again and again for beef and tongues, but when it has been used a few weeks, it should be boiled gently with a little additional salt and sugar, and the scum carefully removed. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Ox Tongue, Potted. Take the remains of a boiled pickled tongue, and a small quantity of roasted meat or poultry, as tongue potted alone is a little too soft. Cut off the skin and hard parts. Weigh the meat, mince finely, and pound it in a mortar, with six ounces of fresh butter, a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered mace, a pinch of cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of pounded cloves, and half a nutmeg, grated, to everj' pound and a half of meat. Mix thoroughly. Press the meat into small pottingjars, and cover with clarified butter. Keep in a cool place. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for a quarter of a pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ox Tongue, Potted Whole (for a picnic or supper). Take an ox tongue out of ox (490) OXP pickle and wash, it well. If tlie root has not heen cut away, take off the rough parts. Put half a pound of fat bacon at the bottom of a deep round pan just large enough for the purpose, and then a pound of rump-steak ; upon these place the tongue, which has been rolled and bound with tape. Cover it with a cow-heel, boiled and boned, another shce of steak and bacon, and season the whole with a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, two teaspoonfuls of white pepper, and a bay-leaf. Add two onions and a carrot, sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and pour over the whole a quart of water, two glassf uls of sherry, and half a pint of mild ale. Cover the pan closely, and place it in a moderate oven. When the tongue is sufficiently cooked take it out, put a thin board with a weight upon it over the meat, and leave it until the follo ving day. Turn it out, and glaze neatly before serving. If wished, part of the tongue can be eaten hot, and the remainder afterwards pressed. Time, three hours and a half to bake the meat. Probable cost, 83. Sufficient for eighteen or twenty persons. Ox Tongue Toast (a breakfast relish). Mince two ounces of cold boiled tongue very finely. Itfix with it a hard-boiled egg chopped small, and a pinch of cayenne and powdered mace. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter, add the tongue, &c., and stir all over the fire xmtil the mixture is quite hot, then spread it thickly on a slice of buttered toast, and serve at once. Time, three or four minutes to heat the mixture. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Oxford Bishop. Rub three ounces of sugar in lumps on the rind of a fresh lemon until aU the yellow part is taken off. Put the pieces of sugar into a jug, and strain over them half the lemon- juice. Score the rind of another lemon or of a Seville orange, stick into it half a dozen cloves, and roast it before a slow fire. Put two drachms each of cloves, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, and mace into a saucepan, with haH a pint of water, and simmer very gently for haK an hour. Pour the liquid, without straining it, upon the roasted lemon, add the flavoured sugar, and a bottle of good port from which part of the spirit has been burnt out. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, and serve hot, with the spices and lemon in the punch. Probable cost, exclusive of the port, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of punch. Oxford Dumplings or Puddings. Shred a quarter of a pound of kidney suet very finely. Add a pinch of salt, two ounces of stale bread-crumbs, two ounces of dried flour, four ounces of picked and dried currants, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, a tablespoonful of minced lemon-rind, and half a nutmeg, grated. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Moisten them to a stiff paste with a little milk and two well-beaten eggs, divide the mixture into dumplings, and fry them in hot fat until they are lightly browned. Serve witii wine sauce. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oxford Grace Cup. Take the peel of a lemon, extract the juice, and cut the peel into thin slices. Put it in a bowl or jug, pour over it a pint and a half of strong home-brewed beer and a bottle of sherry ; grate a nutmeg into the cup ; sweeten to taste ; stir till the sugar is dissolved, and then add three or four slices of bread, toasted brown. Set it on one side for two houi's before straining off. Oxford John, Mutton. Cut one pound and a haK of very tliin collops from a well-kept leg of mutton. Free them entirely from slan and sinew, season them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and dip them into a mixture composed of two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shallots. Fry the seasoned collops in three ounces of butter, and when they are lightly browned on both sides, cover them with good brown gravy, and add a piece of butter, roUed thickly in flour, and a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Let them remain on the fire a few minutes until the sauce is on the point of boiling, then turn them on a hot dish, and serve with, sippets. If the collops are allowed to boD. they will prove hard. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oxford John, Mutton (another way). Melt some butter in a stewpan (say two or three ounces), cut very thin sUees from a leg of mutton into round collops, season these with, a mixture of pepper, salt, minced shallot, savoury herbs, and parsley, and a blade of pounded mace. Put the collops into the stewpan, and keep them stii-red or moved round in the pan imtil done, when, add a breakfast-cupful of good meat gravy, the juice of half a small lemon, and an ounce of butter, kneaded into a dessert-spoonful of flour ; stir, and simmer five or six minutes, but not longer, or they will become tough. Time, twenty minutes to stew. Oxford Pancakes. Mix three tablespoonfuls of flour veiy smoothly with three well-beaten eggs, and half a pint of new milk. Add a pinch of salt, an ounce and a half of butter, a table-spoonful of sugar, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Fry the pancakes as thin as possible in hot fat. Sift powdered sugar over them when they are on the dish, and send a cut lemon to table with them. These pancakes should be made an hour or two before they are wanted. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oxford Pudding. Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in two or three waters. Drain it well, and put it into a pudding-cloth, with three ounces of picked currants, or, if preferred, two large apples, pared, cored, and sliced, and a little grated nutmeg. Tie the cloth. loosely to give the rice room to swell, and let the pudding boil quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet sauce. Tims to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. ox (491 ) OYS Oxford Punch. Eub the rind of three fresh, lemons with half a pound of loaf sugar, in lumps, until all the yellow part is taken off. Put the sugar into a largo jug with the thin rind of a Seville orange and a lemon, the strained juice of three yeville oranges and eight lemons, and a pint of liquid calf's-foot jelly. Mix these ingredjents thoroughly. Pour over them two quarts of boiling water, and set the jug which contains them on the hob for twenty minutes. Strain the mixture into a punch-bowl, and when it is cool, mix with it a bottle of capillairc, a pint of brandy, a pint of rum, half a pint of light mnc, and a quart of orange shrub. Sufficient for nearly a gallon of punch. Oxford Sausages. Mince very finely one pound of lean veal, one pound of lean pork, and one pound of beef suet. Add three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a pound of stale roll, which has been crumbled and soaked in butter for two or three minutes. Three-parts fiU the prepared skins w4th the mixture, and fry them before serving. If it is preferred that the sausages should be seasoned, add the finely-minced rind of half a lemon, a nutmeg, grated, a table-spoonful of powdered sage, and a small tea-spoonful of lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, and basil. A chopped anchovy is by some persons considered an improvement ; but, generally speaking, the sausages are preferred plain. Time to fry, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd. per poimd. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Oxford Sausages, with.out Skins (Theodore Hook's recipe). -Take a pound and a half of pork from the griskin, freed entirely from skin, a pound and a half of beef suet, and half a pound of lean veal. Mince all very finely, seixirately at fii-st, and afterwards together. Mix thoroughly, as the excellence of the sausages depends in a great measure upon the mLxing. Season -svith three small tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea-sijoonful of pepper, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a dessert-spoonful of diied, powdered, and sifted sage, and bind the mixtui-e together with five well-beaten eggs. Press the meat into a stone jar, and keep it in a cool place. It will remain good for two or three days in summer, and nearly a week in -ftonter. AVhen wanted for use, roll the mixture into the usual shape, or into balls, on a floured board, and fry the sausages before serving. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Oyster and Fish Pie (see Fish and Oyster Pie). Oyster and Lobster Pie {see Lobster and Oyster Pie). Oyster Sauce, Beef Stewed and [see Eeef Stewed and Oyster Sauce). Oyster Sauce for Fowl {see Fowl, AVhite Oyster Sauce for). Oysters. Oyster-beds have in past years been so over-fished, that oysters are at the present time very expensive. As, however, st?ps have been taken by Government to preserve them for the future, it is to be hoped that in a few yeai-s they will be more plentiful. Oysters are universally liked, and besides being delicious, are considered wholesome and nourishing for delicate and consumptive persons. When cooked, they appear more frequently as components of other dishes than by themselves, and when served thus, preserved oysters, which may be obtained of any grocer, will be found an economical and excellent substitute for the fresh fish, though not quite equal to it. According to law, oysters come into season on the 4th of August, and go out at the beginning of May, which justifies the old saying that they are to lie eaten whenever there is the letter R in the month. There are several kinds, each large town having its favourite oyster-bank, but "Natives" are generally considered the best. Oysters cannot be too fresh, and when eaten raw, should bo swallowed as soon as they are opened, as exposure to the air spoUs their flavour {see Oysters, Eating of). They may be preserved alive for some days, but their quality gradually deteriorates. It is said that if a cupful of hot milk is taken by delicate persons immediately after partaking of oysters, it will greatly assist their digestion. Excellent oysters have lately been imported to England from America. Oysters (au Gratin). Put six ounces of macaroni into a stewpan with thi-ee pints of boiling water. Season with a pinch of salt and two pinches of pepper, and simmer for twenty minutes. Drain the macaroni, and put it back into the saucepan with half a pint of good gi'avy, and let it stew until the macaroni is tender and the gravy absorbed. Turn it out, chop it small, and put it again into the ste\vpan vnih. a dozen or more of oysters, cut into small pieces, two ounces of grated Pannesan, one ounce of butter, a pinch of cayenne, and as much milk or gi-avj' as will moisten it. Shake the saucepan over the fire until the cheese is melted, then pile the macaroni high in a dish, sprinkle over it an ounce of grated Parmesan and a dessertspoonful of browned bread-crumbs, pour over half an ounce of clarified butter, and brown the mixtiure in a gentle oven, or before the fire. Serve very hot. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Baked. IMix three table-spoonfuls of fiinely-grated bread-crumbs with half a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of white pepper, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Beard a dozen oysters, dip them in beaten egg, roU them in the seasoned crumbs, put each one in its lower shell, and lay a small piece of butter upon it. Place the oysters in the oven, or before the fire for a few minutes, until they are quite hot. Before serving, squeeze a little lemon- juice upon them. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters, Beef Steak Pie with {see Beef Steak Pie with Oysters). Oysters, Boiled. Wash the shells carefully ; throw them into a saucepan of boOing water, and let them boil quickly for three or OYS (492) OYS four minutes, then take them up, and serve them in the shells, with melted butter in a tureen. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oysters, Broiled. Take a dozen large oysters, dry them in a soft cloth, and dip them into beaten egg, and afterwards into finelygrated bread-crumbs. Rub the bars of a double wire gridiron with a little butter, place the oysters upon it, and broil them over a clear, but not fierce fire. AVhen one side is done, turn them upon the other. Put a small lump of fresh butter upon a hot dish, lay the oysters upon it, sprinkle a little pepper over them, and serve. Time to broil, one or two minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters Broiled in their Shells. Take a dozen oysters, open them, and leave them in the deep shell. Place a little butter upon each, with a pinch of salt and cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the shells on the gridiron, over a clear but not fierce iire, and broil them for three minutes. Serve them neatly arranged on a folded napkin. If preferred, the oysters may be boarded, and warmed for a minute or two in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, before they are put into the sheUs, or the shells may be washed, and laid closed upon the gridu-on, the deep side to the fire. When the shells open wide, the oysters are done enough. Serve with bread and butter. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters Browned in their own Gravy. Take a dozen plimip, juicy oysters of medium size. As they are opened, carefully pour the gravy into a cup. Beard the oysters, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and dip each one separately into the yolk of an egg, which has been mixed smoothly with a tea-spoonful of flour. Brown them in a saucepan with a little clarified butter, lift them out, mix their gravy with the butter, and thicken it with half a tea-spoonful of flour. Simmer gently for two or throe minutes, stir in the browned oysters, let them get hot, then serve them on toasted bread in a hot dish. Time, altogether, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters, Calf's Head with {see Calf's Head). Oysters, Cold. Oysters are never so excellent as when they are eaten uncooked, if only they are quite fresh, and newly opened. Brown bread and butter is usually served with them, and either lemon- juice or vinegar and pepper ; but the true lover of oysters prefers them with nothing but their own gravy. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oysters, Croquettes of. Take a dozen plump juicy oysters. Put them in a saucepan over a gentle iire for a minute or two to harden them, then beard them, and cut each one into six or eight pieces. Mix an ounce of butter smoothly in a stewpan with half an ounce of flour, add the juice of the oysters, a pinch of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of ancho\'y sauce, a grate or two of nutmeg, and a quarter of a pint of milk. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the sauce is smooth and thick, then lift the pan off the fire for a minute, add a tea-spoonful of good beef or veal gravy, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stiithe sauce again over the fire imtil the eggs are set, then add the oysters, let them get quite hot (if this .point is not attended to the croquettes wiU not be good), spread the mixture out upon a plate, about an inch and a half thick, and put it aside untU quite cold. Strew some finely-grated bread-crumbs on a board. Divide the oyster mixture into equal-sized parts, and roll these to the shape of corks or balls ; dip them in the yolk of an egg beaten up with a tea-spoonful of oil and a little salt and pepper ; roll them on the bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are crisp, and lightly browned all over. Dry them well before the fire on a cloth placed upon an inverted sieve, and serve them piled on a napkin, and garnished with fried parslej-. Time to fry the croquettes, five to seven minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Curried. Open two dozen oysters without losing any of their liquor. Put them into a saucepan over the fire for a minute to harden them, then beard them and put them aside. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, mix smoothly with it a tablespoonful of curry-powder and a tea-spoonful of dried flour; add a minced onion, and stir gently until the onion is tender, then add the oyster-liquor and a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Let the sauce boil, then put in the oysters ; let them simmer for five minutes, stiiTing them gently all the time, and serve on a hot dish, with a border of rice boiled as for cui-ry. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of oysters, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oysters, Curried, Indian. Open and beard four dozen large plump oysters, and be careful to preserve the liquor. Mince an onion very finely, and frj' it in an ounce of butter until it is quite tender. Stir into it a heaped table-spoonful of cirrry-powder, add a little more butter, if necessary, and pour in very gradually a quarter of a pint of nicely-seasoned stock or water. When the liquid boils stir in the meat of half a cocoa-nut, rasped, and a sour apple, finely minced. Simmer gently until the apple is dissolved, then thicken the gravy with a little flour, and season with pepper and salt. Put in the oysters with their liquor and the milk of the cocoa-nut. Let the cxirry stew for a few minutes, and stir it gently all the time, then add a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and when the oysters are done enough, serve on a hot dish, with a border of boiled rice. A small vegetable marrow, finely minced, or a large ripe tomato, chopped small, may be added to the currj-, if they are at hand, and will be found an improvement. Time, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Oysters, Curried, Indian (another way). See Lidian Oysters Cunied). OYS (493) OYS Oysters, De"Villed.? lon the oysters are opened (choose large ones), retain them and their liquor in the deep shell. Insert cayenne pepper and salt to taste, and put the shells on a gridiron, with a bit of butter on the top of each oyster. If the fire be clear and bright, from three to four minutes will do them. Send to table on a napkin, with bread and butter as an accompaniment. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. per dozen. Oysters, Eating of. The following remarks on this important subject are by the Hev. J. G. Wood : " As to such heresies as pepper and vinegar, let them be banished from the table whilst oysters are upon it. These charming mollusks should always be taken unmitigated, without losing the delicacy of their flavour, by a mixture with any condiment whatever, except their native juice. Alas ! there are few who know how to appreciate and make use of these natural advantages. Scarcely one man in a thousand knows how to open an oyster, and still less how to eat it. The ordinary system which is employed at the oystershops is radically false, for all the juice is lost, and the oyster is left to become dry and insipid upon the flat shell, which efiiectually answers as a di-ain to convey off the liquid, which is to the oyster what the ' milk ' is to the cocoanut. Those who wish to cat oysters as they should be eaten, should act as follows : Hold the moUusk firmly in a cloth, insert the point of the knife neatly just before the edge of the upper shell, give a quick decided pressure \mtil the point is felt to glide along the polished inner surface of the under shell. Force it sharply to the hinge, give a smart wrench rather towards the right hand, and off comes the shell. Then pass the knife quickly iinder the oyster, separate it from its attachment, let it faU into the lower shell, floating in its juice, lift it quickly to the lips, and eat it before the delicate aroma has been dissipated into the atmosphere. There is as much difference between an oyster thus opened and eaten, as between champagne frothing and leaping out of the silver-necked bottle, and the same wine after it has been allowed to stand for six hours -svith the cork removed. There is another method of eating oysters, wherein no knife is required, and not the least skill in opening is needed, the only instrimient being a pair of tongs, and the only requisite being a bright fire. You pick out a glowing spot in the fire, where there are no flames, and no black pieces of coal to dart jets of smoke exactly in the place where they are not wanted. You then insert a row of oysters into the glo- nng coals, taking care to keep their mouths outward and within an easy grasp of the tongs, and their convexity downwards. Presently a spitting and hissing sound is heard, which gradually increases imtil the shells begin to open, and the juice is seen boiling merrily within, the mollusk itself becoming whiter'an'd more opaque as the operation continues. There is no rule for ascertaining the precise point at which the cooking is completed, for everj one has his own taste, and must learn by personal experience. A little practice soon makes perfect, and the expert operator will be able to keep up a continual supply as fast as he can manage to eat them. When they are thoroughly cooked they should be taken from the fire, a second batch inserted, and the still hissing and spluttering molluscs be eaten ' scorching ' hot. . ' . . No one who has not eaten oysters dressed in this primitive mode has the least idea of the piquant flavour of which they are capable. Stewed in their own juice, the action of fire only brings out the full flavour, and as the juice is consumed as well as the oyster there is no waste, and no dissipation of the indescribable but potent aroma." Oysters, Forcemeat of, for Boiled Fowls or Turkeys. Grate four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf of bread very finely. Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, a pinch of cayenne, two ounces of fresh butter, broken into small pieces (or if preferred, four ounces of finely-shred beef-suet, though the forcemeat will not then be so delicate), the grated rind of half a small lemon, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. \Vhen these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in a dozen plump oysters, which have been bearded and cut into small pieces, and bind the preparation together with the yolk of an egg and a little of the oyster liquid. If forcemeat balls are required, the mixture should be pounded in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste. Oyster-sauce should always be served with oyster-forcemeat. Time, haK an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient to stuff a large fowl. Oysters, Forcemeat of (another way). Oj en and beard two dozen fresh oysters, and carefully preserve the liquid. IMince them finely, pound them to a smooth paste, and mix with them five ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, an ounce of fresh butter, the rind of half a lemon chopped small, a table-spoonful of minced parsley, a pinch of cayenne, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. When well mixed, bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg and a small quantity of the oyster liquid, added very gradually. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3s. 3d. Sufficient to stuff a good-sized turkey. Oysters, Forcemeat of (another way). See Forcemeat of Oysters. Oysters, Fowl with {see Fowl with Oysters, and also Oysters, Poulets and). Oysters, Fresh, To Distinguish. The fresher oysters are the better. Their freshness may be known by the force with which the shell closes on the Iniife when they are opened. If the shell gapes at all, the oyster is stale. Oysters, Fricasseed. Cut two ounces of lean ham into dice, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a sliced onion, an inch of thin lemon-rind, and two cloves. I'lace the cover on the pan, and let the contents steam gently for ten minutes. Pour over them haif a pint of stock or gravy thickened with a OYS (494) OYS spoonful of flour, and simmer for twenty minutes. Add two dozen oysters, and when they are quite hot, draw the saucepan to the side of the hro for a minute or two to cool, then stir in gradually the yolk of an egg, beaten up with a table-spoonful of cream. Simmer again for a minute, and serve the oysters on a hot dish, with the sauce strained and poured over them. A tea-spoonful of lemon- juice may be added or not. Probable cost of oysters, from Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Stifficient for three or four persons Oysters, Fried. Fried oysters are generally used to garnish fish, cither boiled or fried, and large oysters are the best for the purpose. Open the oysters, and simmer them for two minutes in their own liquor, dry them in a cloth, beard them, and dip them in a frying batter made as foUows : Rlix six ounces of flour very smoothly with the yolk of an egg, an ounce of clarified butter, and a quarter of a pint of lukewarm water, beat the mixture until it is quite smooth, then add a pinch of salt, and let the batter stand in a cool place for a couple of hours. Stir in briskly the well-whisked whites of two eggs, dip the oysters in separately, drop them into boiling fat, and fry them until they are crisp and brown. Drain them on a cloth, and sei-ve very hot. Time to fry the oysters, seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oysters, Fried (another way). Open two dozen oysters, and simmer them for two minutes in their o-mi liquor. Dry them in a cloth, . beard them, and fry them with two oimces of butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and a tea-spoonf il of chopped lemon-rind. When they are nicely browned, drain them on a cloth, and serve on a hot dish with fried potatoes, and toasted sippets round them. Time, six or seven minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oyster, Fritters of. Open a dozen oysters, and simmer them for two minutes in their own liquor. Beard them, and put them aside. Beat two eggs, and mix with them half a tablespoonful of milk. Add a little of salt, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of pounded mace, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Dip the oysters into this batter, and then into finely-grated breadcrumbs. Fry in hot fat until they are brown and crisp, and use them for garnishing. Time, five or six minutes to fry the oysters. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oystsrs in the Pan, Mince a onion finely, and put it into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, liaK a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Steam until the onion is tender, then add a quarter of a pint of now mdk or cream and a dozen fresh oysters. Let these get quite hot, then .turn them with the sauce into a buttered baking-dish, strew finely-grated bread-crumbs thickly over, and put them into a quick oven until the crumbs are lightly browned. Time, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Oysters, Ketchup of. Take haK a pint of fresh oysters, clean them well, carefully removing the eye and the gut, and boil them gently -n-ith their liquor until all the goodness is drawn out of them. Strain them, and put the liquid into a clean saucepan, with an equal quantity of light wine, six anchovies, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a quarter of an ounce each of pounded cloves and mace, and a dozen peppercorns. Boil a quarter of an hour longer, then put a dozen shallots and the thin rind of a small lemon into a jar, pour over them the hot liquid with the spices, and when cold bottle the ketchup and resin the corks. This ketchup is for flavouring sauces when oysters are out of season. Time, lialf an hour to boil the oysters. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oysters, Ketchup of (another way). Take half a pint of freshly-shelled oysters, clean them well, carefully removing the eye and the gut, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste. Add half a pint of sherry, a drachm of mace, half a drachm of pepper, and half an ounce of salt, and boil aU gently together for twenty minutes. Strain the liquid, and mix with it a tea-Bpoonf\il of brandy, then bottle the ketchup, and resin the corks. Probable cost of 03'sters, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Oysters, Ketchup of (another way). Pound two dozen large oysters in a mortar. Put them into a stewpan with all their liquor, half a pint of sherry, a quarter of a pound of fine anchovies, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Simmer gently for half an hour, then strain; add half a salt-spoonful of pounded mace and eight peppercorns, boil for a few minutes, and when cold bottle the ketchup and store for use. This ketchup will be found useful to flavour gravies and sauces when fresh oysters cannot be obtained. Oysters too large for eating may be used for ketchup. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. per pint. A dessert-spoonful will flavour haK a pint of sauce. Oysters, Loaves of. Beard one dozen oysters, and put the beards into a saucepan with the oyster liquid, as much thick cream as will cover them, a quarter of an inch of mace, a grate or two of nutmeg, two inches of thin lemon-rind, and half a grain of cayenne. Boil for ten minutes, strain the sauce, and put it back into the saucepan, with the oysters finely minced, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a quarter of a pint of thick cream, thickened with a dessert-spoonful of dried hour. Stir the mixture over the iire for a minute, then put it into the loaves, prepared as follows : Slierthe tops off three or iour small French rolls, scoop out the crumb, and plunge the rolk into as much hot lard as will cover' them entirely, and let them remain tUl they are brightly browned all over. Drain them well, fiU them with the oyster mixture, and serve in a dish garnished with fried bread-crumbs. Time, ten minutes to brown the loaves. Probable cost, OYS (495 ) OYS of oysters, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Oysters, Marinaded and Pried. Make a batter as follows : Mix three ounces ?f flour very smoothly with a woU-beaten ogg, add a pinch of salt, half an ounce of clarified butter, and one-eighth of a pint of lukewarm water. Open a dozen oysters, put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and bring them slowly to a boil. Take them out, throw them into cold water for a minute, then di-ain them and place them side by side in a shallow dish, sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg over them, squeeze the juice of a large fi-esh lemon upon them, and let them remain in this marinade for half an hour. Dip them separately into the batter, drop them into boiling fat, and fry until they are crisp and brown. Serve very hot. Time to fry the oysters, six minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two Oysters, Mock. Wash and scrub well a dozen deep oyster shells. Mince the flesh of a Dutch herring very finely, divide it into twelve parts, and put one part into each of the shells. Place upon it a piece of boiled sweetbread, the size and shape of a small syster, which has been dipped into egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. Sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over the mock oysters, lay a piece of butter on each, and bake them in the oven, or put them "before the fire for a few minutes until they are lightly browned. Sei-ve very hot. Time, about ten minutes to brown. Probable cost. Is. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters, Omelet of. Mince well a dozen fried oysters. IVIix with them half a dozen well-beaten eggs; season the mixture with a small pinch of salt, a salt-sj oonful of white pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and fry the omelet in the usual way, [see Omelet). Or, beat half a dozen eggs lightly, and fry them in hot fat until they are delicately set. Put three table-spoonfuls of oyster sauce into the centre, fold the omelet over, and serve on a hot dish. Time, five or six minutes to fry the omelet. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, '2s. 6d. Oysters, Patties of, Oyster patties may be served either hot or cold, and should be sent to table pUed high on a napkin. They may be either baked in patty-pans or made like small vol-au- vents. When patty-pans are used, line the pans with good puff paste, rolled out thin, put a crust of bread in each, lay on the cover, brush the top with beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven. V Tien the pastry is sufficiently baked remove the covers, take out the bread, fill the patties with the oyster mixture, lay the covers on again, and serve. If made like small vol-au-vents, roll out some light puif pastry, half an inch thick. Stamp it in rounds with a pastry-cutter, two inches and a half in diameter, press a small cutter an inch and a half in diameter on the middle of each round, to the depth of a quarter of an inch. This is intended for the lid of the vol-au-vent. Place the rounds on a buttered tin, and bake them in a quick oven until they are risen and lightly browned ; then take thorn out, remove the smaller centre piece, scoop out a Little of the inside, and fill the empty space with the prepared oysters. Put on the Ud and serve. The oysters are prepared as follows : Beard a dozen oysters, and cut them into small pieces. Put the liquor from the oysters and the beards into a saucepan, with an inch of lemon-rind, a quarter of an inch of mace, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a small pinch of cayenne, and a pinch of pepper, and boil for seven or eight minutes. Strain the liquid, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of flour and half an ounce of butter ; mix with it two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon -juice, then add the oysters, simmer all gently together for three minutes, fiU the patties, and serve. The ragoiit should be smooth, thick, and delicately flavoured, and should never be put into the patties imtil they are baked. Time, about twenty minutes to bake the patties. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for a dozen patties. Oysters, Patties of (another way) . Open and beard a dozen oysters, and cut them into quarters. Thicken the liquid with a teaspoonful of flour and a little butter, season it with a little salt and cayenne, and mix with it a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley. Let it boil, then put in the oysters, simmer th?m for two or three minutes, fill up the patties, and serve. Time, twenty minutes to bake the patties. Probable cost, 4d. each. Stifficient for eight or ten patties. Oysters, Patties of, with Mushrooms. Prepare and bake the patties as in the last recipe. Trim, wash, drain, and dry five or six button mushrooms. Cut them into small pieces, and fry them in half an ounce of fresh butter for four or five minutes. Beard a dozen oysters, thicken the liq?or with a tea-spoonful of flour, and pour it over the mushrooms, with a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a' table-spoonful of thick cream. Season with' inch of salt, a pinch of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated. Stir in the oysters, simmer all gently for two or three minutes, fill up the patties, and serve. Time, twenty minutes to bake the patties. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for a dozen patties. Oysters, Pickled. Put the oysters which are to be piclcled in a saucepan with their own liquor, and lot them boil gently for ten or twelve minutes. Lift them out, put them into small jars, and cover them. Let the liquid settle, then pour off the clear part, measure it, and put it on to boil, with the same quantity of good vinegar, two blades of mace, a teaspdonful of peppercorns, and the thin rind of half a small lemon with each pint of vinegar. BoU this pickle for ten minutes, then take it off, and when cold pour it over the oysters, and tie them down carefully, or they mil spoil. Pickled oysters will not keep more than a few weeks, and they should be put into small jars, so that the contents of one may be speedily finished after being exposed to the air. They should be served in a small dish, with a little of the pickle strained over them, and a little OYS (496) OYS finely-minced parsley sprinkled on the top. Brown bread and butter may be eaten with them. Probable cost, oysters, Is. 6d. per dozen. Oysters, Pie of (for picnics, luncheons, or suppers). Butter the inside of a shallow piedish rather thickly, and line the edges with a good puff-paste. Open and beard two dozen fresh oysters, lay them in the dish, season ?with a little salt and cayenne and half a teaspoonful of powdered mace, and sprinkle over them three table-spoonfuls of hnely-grated bread-crumbs. Mix the strained oyster liquor with the same quantity of thick cream and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Pour this sauce over the oysters, put the cover on the pie, and bake in a moderate oven. A quarter of a pound of the kidney fat of a loin of veal, or a small boiled sweetbread cut into thin slices, is sometimes put into the pie with the oysters. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Pillau of. Wash six ounces of Patna or small-grained rice in several waters, and carefully pick out the unhusked grains. Drain the rice, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of boiling and rather highly-seasoned gravy. Keep the pan uncovered, stir a little at first, to prevent the rice getting into lumps, and let it bo-U very gently until it is quite soft, but unbroken, then throw it into a colander, and let it drain near the fire until it is quite drJ Pile it lightly round a dish, and fill the hollow in the middle with a pint of oyster sauce made according to the directions given further on. Serve very hot. Time, fifteen or twenty minutes to boil the nee. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Oysters, Plaice Filleted and Stewed with {see Plaice Filleted and Stewed with Oysters). Oysters, Poulets and. Eoast a couple of chickens in the usual way. Open two dozen oysters, and scald them in their omti liquid for two minutes. Beard them, and put them aside to cool. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, and mix an ounce of flour smoothly with it. Add the oyster liquor, three table-spoonfuls of cream or milk, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of white pepper. Stir the sauce gently over the fire until it boils, then add the oysters, and either pour the sauce over the fowls, or serve it separately in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes to prepare the sauce. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Oysters, Powder of (for flavouring sauces, &c., when oysters are not in season). Open a dozen fresh oysters, and pound them thoroughly in a mortar with two drachms of salt, then press them through a hair sieve. IMix with them as much di-ied flour as will make them into a smooth paste ; this will be a little more than two ounces. EoU the mixture out three or four times, and the last time leave it the eighth of an inch thick. Stamp it into small cakes, dredge these with flour, dry them gradually in a cool oven, and be very careful that they do not bum. To prevent this they should bo turned every twenty minutes. When the cakes are quite dry, crush them topowder, and put them into small bottles, cork and seal them securely, and store in a dry 2)lace. When sauce is wanted mix three drachmS: of the powder smoothly with an ounce of butter and six table-spoonfuls of milk. Stir the sauce over a gentle fixe until it boUs, season it with a pinch of cayenne, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. Time, four or five hours to dry the cakes. Probable cost of oysters,. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Allow three drachms, of powder for half a pint of sauce. Oysters, Preserved, How to Cook. Open the tin, take out the oysters carefully, and put them on a hot dish in the oven, so that they may be gradually warmed. Strain the liquor which was with them in thetin, and put it into a saucepan with the samequantity of milk and a little salt and cayenne, and let it get quite hot, then thicken it with a little flour and butter, and let it boU. Strain it over the oysters, and serve immediately. Send pepper and vinegar to table with this dish. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Sauce of. Brown. In making this sauce, allow at least three oysters for each person. Scald the oysters in their liquor for two minutes, to harden them, then beard them, and if the oysters are large, halve, or even quarter them. Mix two ounces of butter very smoothly with an ounce of flour, add the strained oyster liquor, half a pint of brown: gravy, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Keep stirring one way imtil the sauce is quite smooth ; let it boil, then put in the oysters, and ch-aw the saucepan to the side until they are warmed through, but they must not be allowed to boil, or they will shrink and turn leathery. Serve the sauce very hot. A tea-spoonful of anchovy may be added, if liked. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six persons. Oysters, Sauce of. Brown (another way). Brown a table-spoonful of flour and a finely-minced shallot in two ounces of fresh butter until they are brightly browned, add a quarter of a pint of good brown stock, a pinch of cayenne, a little pepper and salt, and the oyster liquor, and stir the sauce until it is smooth and thick. Let it boil, then draw the pan to the side, and add a dessert-spoonful of strained Icmen- juice, a table-spoonful of claret, and a dozen oysters, which have been bearded and cut into quarters. "SMien these are warm through, the sauce is ready for ser-ving. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oysters Sauce of, Mock. Cut three anchovies into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of water, half a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and two cloves. Simmer A-ery gently until the ancho-\des are dissolved, then strain the liquor, thicken it -with a little flour and butter, and mix with it enough milk or cream to make up haK a pint. Sprve veiy hot. Or, stir a teaspoonful of ancliovj' essence into half a pint of OYS (497) OYS white sauce ; season -with pepper and nutmeg, and serve hot. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Sauce of, White. Open a dozen oysters, and boU them in their own liquor for two minutes, to harden them, then cool, beard and halve or quarter them. Mix an oimco of butter and an ounce of flour smoothly together in a stewpan. Add the oyster liquor, a pinch of cayenne, the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, and as much milk as will make the quantity up to three-quarters of a pint. Stir the whole gently over the fire until the sauce i.s smooth and thick, then put in the oj sters, and when they are warmed through, serve immediately. A little lemon- juice and anchovy may be added, if liked. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 23. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oysters, Sauce of. White (another way). Open and beard a dozen oysters, as in the last recipe. Put the beards into a stewpan with the liquor, a quarter of a pint of white stock, half a dozen peppercorns, an inch of thin lemonrind, and a bay-leaf, and let them simmer very gently for a quarter of an hour. Mix an ounce of butter smoothly with an ounce of flour, add the strained liquor, a pinch of salt and cayenne, a glassful of sherrj or madeira, a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, and the oysters. When these ingredients are hot through, draw the saucepan to the side, and stir in very gradually the wellbeaten yolks of three eggs. Mix thoroughly, and serve immediately. If the sauce is allowed to boil after the oysters are added, they will be hard and leathery. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Sausages of. Large stewing oysters are the best for making sausages. Open two dozen oysters, and mince them finely. Mix with them six ounces of grated broad-crumbs, which have been soaked for a few minutes in the oyster liquor, and six ounces of finely-shred beef' suet. Season the mixture with a saltspoonful of powdered mace, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of jjepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and moisten it with the weU-beaten j'olks of two eggs. Make up the mixture into small sausages, about three inches long, flour these well, and fry them in hot fat until they are lightly broviTied. Drain them, and serve piled high on a napkin, and garnished with parsley. This preparation is better for being made two or three hours before it is wanted. Sometimes a smaU quantity of minced veal is added. Time, seven or eight minutes to fry the sausages. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oysters, Scalloped. Scalloped oysters ought properly to be served in sc alloi s of silver or earthenware ; but when these are not at hand, a small dish will answer the purpose, or the deep shells of the oysters, which have been thoroughly cleansed. Oysters dressed in this way should be small, plump, and juicy ; large, coarse oysters would not be at all nice. Open and beard two dozen oysters, and cut each one into two. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix it smoothly with two ounces of flour, the strained oyster-liquor, and a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Add half a teaspoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, and a grate or two of nutmeg, and stir the sauce over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Let it cool for a minute, then mix in the well-beaten yolka of two eggs, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and the oysters. Keep stirring over a gentle fire for four or five minutes, then put the mixture in the shells, cover them thickly with finelygrated bread-crumbs, moisten with clarified butter, place them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and let them remain until they are equally and lightly browned. Serve very hot. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Scalloped (another way). Open and beard two dozen oysters. Put the liquid into a saucepan, with an inch of thin lemon-rind, half a grain of cayenne, and half a blade of mace, and when it boils strain it over the oysters, and let these remain in it until they are quite cold. Mix three ounces of fine breadcrumbs with half a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg and a little salt and pepper. Di-ain the oysters from the liquid, and season them with a little pepper. Butter the scallop-shells, and sprinkle some bread-crumbs over them. Fill them up with alternate layers of oysters, seasoned bread-crumbs, and small pieces of butter ; pour in a httle of the oyster liquor, and finish Avith a thick layer of bread-crumbs, softened with butter. Put the shells into a quick oven, or into a Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, and bake imtil they are lightly and equally browned. Serve very hot. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Scalloped (a simple method). Open and beard a dozen oysters, and wash them in their own Hquor. Scrape the deep shells, and cleanse them thoroughly. Put an oyster in each one, season it with salt and pepper, and sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly upon it. Put some little pieces of butter on the top, arrange the shells in a dish, and bake in a quick oven, or in a Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, until they are lightly and equally browned. Serve very hot. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters, Soup of. Scald two dozen oysters in their own liquor; beard them, cut them into halves, and put them into a soup tureen. Place the beards into a stewpan with a pint of white stock or milk, and the oyster liquor ; let them boil for a quarter of an hour, then strain the liquid, let it stand a few minutes, and before using pour it gently away from the sediment which will have settled at the bottom of the vessel. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix two ounces of flour smoothly with it, add the stock in which the beards were boiled, and half a pint of thick cream. Season the soup with a pinch of cayenne, a little grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of OYS ( 498 OYS ancliovj , and stir it over a gentle fire for a quarter of fin hour. Pour it into the tureen upon the oysters, and serve immediately. If preferred, milk may he used instead of cream in making tliis soup. Prohable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Soup of (another way). Open and heard two dozen oysters, cut them into halves, and piit them into a soup tureen. Boil the beards in a quart of mutton broth for a few minutes, then strain them, throw them aside, and thicken the soup with three dessertspoonfuls of arrowroot. Make it quite smooth, and boil it quickly for a quaiter of an hour. Strain it thiough a hair-sieve, add a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne, and a quarter of a pint of milk, and simmer gently for five minutes. Pour the soup into the tureen upon the oysters, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Soup of, Economical. Cut half the meat from a scalded ox-heel into neat pieces about the size of a small oyster. Put them into a stewpan with three pints of good stock, thickened with a little flour and butter. Add a pinch of cayenne and a glassful of sherrj-, and boil gentty for two hours, then put in" a dozen and a half of bearded oysters and their Equid, simnaer five minutes longer, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oysters, Soup of. Rich. Take three dozen oysters ; beard them, and let the beards boil for a few minutes in two pints of fish stock. Pound half the oysters in a mortar with the yolks of two haid-boiled eggs, an ounce of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Strain the stock, stii- the pounded mixture into it, add the oyster liquor, and simmer all together for half an hour. Add a little more salt and pepper, if necessary, and a pinch of c ayenne, together with the rest of the oysters, and the yolks of two unboiled eggs, wliich have been well beaten. The soup must not boil after the oysters and raw eggs are added : it must be stirred by the side of the fire until it is thick and smooth, and then poured into a tureen, and served very hot. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Oysters, Stewed. Beard two dozen freshly-opened oysters, put them into a basin, and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon. Put the beards and the oyster liquor into a saucepan with half a blade of mace, haK a dozen bruised peppercorns, half an inch of lemon-rind, a pinch of cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain the liquid, thicken it with an oimce and a half of butter, smoothly mixed with a large tea-spoonful of flour, add a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it is smooth and thick. Put in the oysters, and let them warm through (they must not boil, or they vill be hard and" shrunken). Place a slice of toasted bread on a iot dish, poui' the oysters and the gra-vy upon this, and serve. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Oysters, Stewed, Economicial. Open a dozen oysters, and carefully preserve the liquor. Put a piece of butter the size of a small egg into an enamelled saucepan, pour the oysters and their liquor upon this, and dredge a httle flour over them. Season with a pinch of salt and cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg, and add three table-spoonfuls of cold water. Shake the saucepan over a gentle fire until the sauce is smooth and thick, but the oysters must not be allowed to boil. Serve on toast, and pour out the gravy very carefully, so a.s to leave undisturbed any grit or sediment that may have settled to the bottom. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for one or two persons. Oysters, Sweetbread and. Take a calf's sweetbread. Soak it in cold water for an hour, boil it in salt and water for ten minutes, and then cut it into pieces about the size of an oyster, and with it two ounces of bacon. Beard a dozen large oysters, and mix them with the moat. Sprinkle over all a little pepper and salt, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thjTne, and four ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs. Place the sweetbread, oysters, and bacon alternately upon small skewers. Fry them in hot butter until they are lightly browned, then remove the skewers, and serve the oysters, &c., on a hot dish. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and pour half a pint of good brown gravy upon them. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five oi' six persons. Oysters, To Keep. Cover the oysters with cold salt and water, allowing six ounces of salt to each gallon of water. When they have lain for twelve hours, di-ain them, and leave them bare for the same length of time, then put fresh salt and water over them again, and repeat this change every twelve hours until the oysters are wanted for the table. They may be kept alive thus for a week or ten days in moderate weather. When oysters are carefully and tightly packed in barrels directly they are taken from the beds, they will keep good for some days without water. A handfiil of oatmeal is occasionally put into the water which covers them, with the idea oi feeding the oysters, but though this improves their appearance, it quite spoils their flavour. Oysters, Vol-au-Vent of. Put half a pound of dried and sifted flour into a basin, salt it slightly, and malvc it into a soft paste by stirring into it the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten up with the strained juice of half a lemon and a little cold-water. Put the paste on a slab, and lay half a pound of fresh butter in the middle of' it, then roll it out four or five times, and put it in a cold place for an hour. At the end of that time roU it out again once or twice, and leave it a little more than an inch thick. Dip a knife into hot water, and cut the paste to the size and shape of the dish on which the vol-au-vent is to be served. Mark the cover by making an even incision the third of an OYS ( 499 ) PAL inch deep, and an inch from the edge all round, brush it over with yolk of egg, place it on a baking-tin, and bake it in a hot oven until it is well risen, and lightly browned. Draw it out, and lift off the cover with the point of a sharp knife, scoop out the soft paste from the inside, and retui-n the vol-au-vent to the oven for a few minutes to dry. When ready for serving, fiU the centre with oysters prepared as follows : Beard two dozen oysters, and put the beards and the liquor into a saucepan with an inch of lemon-rind, a small pinch of salt, half an inch of mace, half a grain of cayenne, and the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated. Boil quickly for six or eight minutes, then strain the gravy. Mix a table-spoonful of tioiir smoothly with two ounces of butter. Add a quarter of a pint of cream and the oyster liquor, and simmer gentlj' until the sauce is smooth and thick. Put in the oysters, simmer two or three minutes longer, and serve. Time, about half an hour to bake the vol-au-vent; twenty minutes to prepare the oysters. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Wholesomeness of. "Respecting the wholesomeness of this well-known shell-fish," says Dr. Spencer Thomson, "much difference of opinion exists among medical men; nutritious, especially when uncooked, they certainly are, but their digestibility in aU probability depends greatly upon the person by whom they are eaten. Some, whose stomachs generally require much consideration, can eat oyster::, in moderation, with impunity." Dr. Paris, however, condemns them for invalids. Oysters have, though rarely, like other shellfish, caused symptoms of irritant poisoning. Oysters with Leg of Mutton. Make half a dozen deep incisions in the thick part of a well-kept leg of mutton, and fill them with a forcemeat made as follows : Boil a dozen fresh oysters in their own liquor for two minutes, beard them, and mince them finely with a shaUot, a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley-leaves, and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Tie the mutton in a cloth, put it into boiling water, let it boU, then draw it to the side of the fire, and si m mer very gently until it is done enough. Servewith oyster sauce. Time to simmer, two and a half to three hours, according to size. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost of oysters, Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Padeia Cake. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream, ilix with it four ounces of ground rice, four ounces of flour, two ounces of currants, washed, picked, and dried, two ounces of muscatel raisins, chopped small, a small pinch of salt, two ounces of crushed loaf sugar, and a quarter oi a nutmeg, grated. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, make them into a dough, by stirring into them half a pint of luke-warm milk, in which has been dissolved a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda, and which has been flavoured by the addition of three or four drops of the essence of almonds. Line a mould with well-oiled paper, three-parts fill it with the dough, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, about one hour to bake the cake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small mould. Pain d' Ananas {see Pinc-applo Pudding, or Pain d' Ananas). Palace Sweetmeats (for Dessert). Take any quantity of freshly-candied peel or citron, from which the sugar has been carefully removed, and cut it into broad strips. Put these on a fork or sUver skewer, and dip them into some liquid barley-sugar, then place them on a dish, which has been well oiled, being careful that the pieces do not touch, and let them remain until cold. These sweetmeats are easily made, and are much liked. They should be stored in a tin box, with white paper between each layer ; and when served shoiild be neatly piled on a dish, and garnished with leaves. Probable cost. Is. 2d.' per pound. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound for a dish. Palestine Pudding. Put a quarter of a pound of biscuit flour into a bowl with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, and a pinch of salt. Add gradually a pint of new milk, and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon, until it is quite smooth and free from lumps, then put it into a saucepan, with two ounces of fresh butter, and stir it over a gentle fire for four minutes. Pour it out into a shallow dish large enough to contain it, and when it is quite cold and stiff, cut it up into small fancy shapes, and fry them in a little butter, until they are lightly browned. Serve neatly arranged on a hot dish, with lemon-sauce poured round them. The sauce may be made as follows : Put the rind and juice of a fresh lemon into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of water and two ounces of loaf sugar, and let them boil until the sugar is dissolved, and the syrup is clear ; strain, and serve. Time, about ten minutes to fry the pudding. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Palestine Soup. Take three dozen freshly-dug artichokes, peel them, and throw them into cold water as they are done, or they \iiR become discoloured. Put them into a saucepan with four onions, the outer sticks of a head of celery, and three pints of white stock, and let them simmer gently for an hour. Take out the onions and the celery, and press the artichokes through a fine sieve ; put the puree back into the saucepan, and when it is quite hot stir into it a pint of boiling cream, or if preferred, a mixture of cream and milk, season with salt, pepper; and grated nutmeg, simmer a minute or two, and serve immediately. Send fried bread, cut into small dice, to table on a separate dish. Probable cost, Is. 8d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Palestine Soup (another way). Peel two dozen freshly-dug Jerusalem artichokes, and slice them into a stewpan, containing three pints of stock, or of the hquid in which a leg of mutton has been boiled. Add four onions, four potatoes, a few sticks of celerj two ounces of lean ham, and simmer all gently together PAN ( 500 ) PAN tmtil the vegetables are 6oft enough, then press them through a fine sieve, and put them back into the saucepan. Season with salt and cayenne, add a little grated nutmeg, a lump of sugar, and a little flour, mixed smoothly with haK a pint of milk, and stir the soup over the fire until it boils ; put in two table-spoonfuls of cream, and serve immediately. The soup should not boil after the cream is added. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pan, Bain Marie {see Bain Marie Pan). Panachee Jelly. Take any quantity of perfectly clear and transparent jelly, properly sweetened and flavo lred. Dissolve it, and divide it into two equal portions, and colour one of these with three or four drops of prepared cochineal. Soak a mould large enough to contain the whole of the jelly in cold water, then fill it with alternate layers of the clear and the coloured jelly, remembering only to let each layer become perfectly stiff before another is added. If the jelly becomes so firm that it cannot easily be turned out, a napkin may be wrung out of boiling water, and wrapped roimd the mould for a minute or two, and this will probably be all that is required. Time, according to the state of the weather. The jelly will of course stiffs more quickly if the mould can be put into ice. Probable cost of calf's-foot jelly, 2s. per pint. Panada. Panada is a preparation of bread which is used by the French in making forcemeats, and is much superior to the grated crumbs ordinarily used in EngHsh kitchens. The flavouring required for the whole of the forcemeat is generally put into the panada, and this flavoxiring is therefore a matter of considerable importance. Panada is made as follows : SHce the crumb of two French rolls into a basin, and pour over it as much boiling milk or broth as wtII cover it. Let it soak for half an hour, or until it is quite moist, then press it with a plate to squeeze out the superfluous liquid; afterwards put it into a cloth, and wring it thoroughly. Put an ounce of fresh butter into an enamelled saucepan, with a little pepper and salt, half a blade of mace, powdered, or a little grated nutmeg, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, two table-spoonfiils of minced parsley, half a dozen chopped mushrooms, and a slice of lean ham, cut into dices ; a bay-leaf ma}' be added or not. Stew these ingredients over the fire for a minute or two, then add the soaked bread and two table-spoonfuls of good white sauce or gravy. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire, until it forms a dry smooth paste and leaves the sides of the saucepan, then mix in the unbeaten yolks of two eggs ; put the preparation between two plates, and when cool it is ready for use. If preferred, instead of mixing the herbs and seasoning with the panada, the gravy or sauce may be simmered with the seasoning, vmtil it is highly flavoured, and then strained over the bread. In making-the forcemeat, equal quantities should be taken of whatever meat is to be used, panada, and calf s udder, or butter, and these should be pounded together in a mortar, until they are thoroughly blended. ?WTien udder is used, it should be well boiled with as much water as will cover it, then allowed to cool, trimmed, rubbed through a fine sieve, and added to the forcemeat. The panada is to be stirred over the fire until the mixture leaves the saucepan. Panada (Invalid Cookery). Cut the crumb of a penny loaf into thin sHces, and put these into a saucepan with as much chicken broth as will soak them. Let the panada boil, then add a little sugar and grated lemon-rind, and a glassful of light wine, ii approved. Serve immediately. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for one person. Panada (Invalid Cookery. Another way). ? Put a quarter of a pint of water and a glassful of sherrj' into a saucepan, with a lump of sugar and the very thin rind of a quarter of a lemon, or, if preferred, a little mace. Let these ingredients boil, then add three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Boil quickly for five minutes, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Panada, Bread. Slice the crumb of two French rolls into a basin, and pour over it as much boiling gravy as it wiU absorb. When quite moist, beat it well with a fork, add whatever seasoning is required, put the bread into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and stir it over a gentle fire xmtil it is dry and smooth, and leaves the saucepan with the spoon. When cool, it is ready for use. Time, about half an hour to soak the bread. Probable cost, 6d. Panada for Fish {see Fish, Panada for). Panada for Fish Forcemeat. Put the third part of a pint of water into a moderatesized saucepan, with an ounce of fresh butter and a pinch of salt. Let it boU, then sprinkle in gradually four ounces of fine flour; stir until the panada is smooth and stiff, then add the imbeaten yolks of three eggs. Spread the panada on a plate, and when cold it is ready for use. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Panada, Game {see Game Panada). Panada Soup. Cut the crumb of two French rolls into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan, with as much cold water as will cover them. Let them boil for five or six minutes, then press them through a fine sieve, and put them back into the saucepan, with the liquid in which they were boiled, and two ounces of fresh butter which has been beaten to a cream. Season the mixture with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir it over the fire again until it boils, then add the yolks of two eggs, which have been beaten up with a quarter of a pint of new milk or cream, and serve immecHately. The soup must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable costr 7d., if nulk be used. Sufficient for two persons. Pancakes. The batter for pancakes is best when made an hour or two before it is wanted for use. It should be quite smooth, and of the consistency of thick custard. The eggs PAN (501 ) PAN should first be hisked thoroughly, the yolks and whites separately, the flour should then bo added, and when it has been beaten until it is quite free from lumps, the milk or cream should be put in. In making plain pancakes, two table-spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pint of milk should be allowed to each egg. If a larger proportion of eggs be used, less flour will be required. The fire over which pancakes are fried should be clear and bright, and the frying-pan scrupulously clean and hot. In order to insure this, it is best to melt a little fat in it, then pour it away, wipe the inside quickly round with a dry clean rag, put in a little more fat, and afterwards pour in the batter, which should cover the pan entirely, and be as thin as possible. The edges of the pancake should be kept free from the pan with a knife, and the pan must be shaken lightly, to prevent sticking. When the batter is set, and the under side of the pancake nicely browned, the pan should be taken hold of at the end of the handle, and lightly jerked upwards, so as to turn the pancake completely over, and in a minute or two it will be ready for serving. If any difficulty is found in throwing up the pancake, it may be turned with a slice, or cut in two, and then turned. Pancakes may be dished in various ways, either flat, with sugar sifted between, or roUed and piled on a hot napkin, or placed side by side in a dish. Lemon and sugar are generally sent to table with them, and they should be served as hot as possible ; they may be flavoured according to taste. A few chopped apples, or a tea-spoonful of dried currants, is sometimes mixed with the batter, or sprinkled upon it when it is set in the pan, and another thin coating of batter poured over ; and pancakes thus made are called apple or currant pancakes. Pancakes are much more easily fried in a smaU pan than in a large one. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost of batter, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eecipes for the following pancakes will be found under their respective headings : American Pancakes, French Apple ,, Plain Apple vtitu Custard ? Rissoles Cream ? Eose currant coloured French ? Scotch Ginger ,, Snoav Indian ? Stuffed Irish ,, Windsor Leipzig ,, Without New England Eggs or Milk Oxford Polish Pancakes a la Creme Eice. Pancake Balls Pancakes (another way) . Break three eggs in a basin, add a little salt, and beat them well up ; put to them four ounces and a half of flour, mix together with milk till the whole is of the consistency of cream. Heat the frying-pan, and for each pancake put in a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour in the batter when the butter boils, until the bottom is covered. Fry the pancakes on both sides to a light brown. Serve one by one, or roll them up and send fiiree or four together. Pancakes (a la Creme). Eub the rind of half a small fresh lemon with three or four large lumps of sugar until the yellow part is all taken off, then crush the sugar to powder, and mix with it a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a small pinch of salt, and an ounce of dried flour. Make this into a smooth paste with a little cold milk and an ounce of clarified butter, then stir in verj- gradually half a pint of thick cream, and the well- whisked yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Molt a quarter of an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, fry the pancakes verj- quickly, and serve them as hot as possible. They should be very thin ; a second supply of butter will not be required for frying. Time, three or four minutes to iry each pancake. Probable cost, '2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pancake Balls. Dissolve half an ounce of yeast in a little lukewarm milk, and mix it with half a pound of flour, adding as much milk as is necessary to make a stiff dough. Set this in a bowl by the side of the fire, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. Beat two ounces of fresh buttertoacream, rub five or six large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a lemon until aU the yellow part is taken oft', then crush them to powder, and mix them with the butter ; add four well-beaten eggs, and knead all thoroughly with the dough. Make the mixture into small balls, insert a little marmalade or jam into the centre of each, close the aperture, and put them in a warm place to rise for a few minutes longer. Fry them in boiling fat until they are lightly browned, drain well, and dish them on a folded napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. Time, about ten minutes to fry the balls. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pancakes, French. Make a batter by beating up together three spoonfuls of potatostarch, five raw eggs, some powdered loaf sugar, and a little water. Add enough milk to make it of the consistency of porridge. Butter well the inside of a frying-pan, and place it over a moderate fire. When it is sufficiently hot, pour in a large spoonful of the batter, and shake the pan so as to spread it over the whole of its surface. When the pancake is done enough, throw it on a dish, and, sprinkle its surface with crushed loaf sugar, or cover it with jelly. Pancakes, Plain. Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and pour them into a bowl containing four table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat the mixture until it is smooth, and quite free from lumps, then add a pinch of salt, and two-thirds of a pint of new milk. Let the batter stand in a cool place for an hour or two, then fry the pancakes according to the directions given above ; half an ounce of dripping will be required for each pancake. Time, five minutes to fry one pancake. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pancakes, Rissoles. Prepare a pint of batter as for plain pancakes, and in making it substitute pepper and salt for sugar and nutmeg. Mince a pound of cold veal or beef very finely, and season it with salt, cayenne, PAN ( 502 ) PAP nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind. Fry a pancake in the usual way, and when it is set, and lightly browned, put half a cupful of the mince in the centre, and cover it by folding over the ends and the sides ; leave the pancake in the pan a few minutes longer to heat the meat, and as each rissole is finished, j)lace it on an inverted sieve before the fire to di-ain, until the rest are ready for serving ; dish the rissoles on a hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time to fry, eight minutes. Probable cost, Is 3d. SuQicient for five or six persons. Pancakes, Rose - coloured. Mix three table-spoonfuls of Hour to a smooth paste with a Little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg, half a pint of milk, and four well-whisked eggs. Pare the outer skin from a medium-sized beetroot, which has been properly boiled. Cut it into thin slices, and cxush it to pulp in a mortar, then stir it into the batter ; fry the pancakes in the usual way, roll them neatly, and sei-ve them on a hot dish with white cm-rant jelly, or preserved apricots, round them. Time, six minutes to fry the pancake. Probable cost, Sd. Sufficient for four or six persons. Pancakes, Scotch, Mix three tablespoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, the wellbeaten yolks of three eggs, two drops of lemon, and two drops of ratafia flavouring, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and half a pint of new milk, or cream, if obtainable. Leave the batter in a cool place until it is wanted for use, then at the last moment stir in briskly the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Fry the pancakes in the usual way, but instead of turning them, brown the upper part with a salamander, or red-hot fire-shovel. When the pancakes are done, spread quickly over them a little jam or marmalade, roll them up, and then serve them on a hot dish, with powdered sugar sifted over them. If liked, half a dozen ratafias, or three macaroons, may be crushed to powder, and stirred into the batter. Time to fry the pancakes, five minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pancakes, Snow. Freshly-fallen snow may be used instead of eggs in making batter for pancakes. Care must of course be taken that the snow is as pure as possible. The batter should be made rather thick, and the snow mLxed with each pancake just before it is put into the pan. As a general rule, it may be calculated th t two table-spoonfuls of snow will be equal to one egg. Pancakes, Soup of (a German recipe). Fry a couple of plain pancakes in the usual way, and be careful to put no more fat into the pan with them than is required to prevent them sticking. Drain them on an inverted sieve, or press them between two sheets of blotting-paper, to free them from grease, and cut them into narrow strips, about an inch long, or if preferred into small diamonds or squares. Tlirow them into a saucepan containing two pintfi of clear brown gravy soup, boiling hot ; let them boil quickly for a minute or two, and serve. Time, ten minutes to fry the pancakes. Probable cost of pancakes, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pancakes, Stuffed. Make a pint of batter, according to the directions given for plain pancakes. Fry some thin pancakes, and as each one sets, and becomes coloured, spread over it a layer of good veal forcemeat, then roll it rather lightly, and lay it on a dish before the fire imtU the batter is finished. Cut the rolls into slices an inch thick, lay them on a buttered dish, and pour over them as much boUing gravy as will cover them. Grate a little nutmeg over before serving. If preferred, the stuffed shoes of pancake may be egged, bread-crumbed, and fried again to a light brown, instead of being served with the gravy. Or they may be placed side by side in a buttered dish, some custard poured over them, and baked in a moderate oven until the custard sets. Time to fry the pancake, five minutes. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the gravy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pancakes, "Windsor. Mix four tablespoonfuls of flour very smoothly with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, half a smaU nutmeg, grated, six weU-beaten eggs, six ounces of clarified butter, and a pint of now milk, or cream, if the latter can be had. Beat the mistm-e thoroughly, and set it in a cool place until wanted for use. No butter or lard will be required in frying these iDancakes. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, when made with milk, Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pancakes, without Eggs or MUk. Mix two table-spoonfxils of flour with a small pinch of salt, two or thi-ee grates of nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar. Make a smooth batter, by mixing with the flour, &c., very gradually, half a pint of mild ale, and beat it fully ten minutes. Fry the pancakes in the usual way, and serve them with moist sugar sprinkled between them. Time, ten minutes to fry each panciike. Probable cost, about 4d, Sufficient for two or tlu-ee persons. Pankail, Soup Maigre. Shred a pound of cabbages, savoys, or bunch greens very finely, and throw them into a quart of boOing water, which has been thickened with oatmeal, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add two ounces of butter or good beef di-ipping, and simmer gently for an hour and a liaLf. Or, partially boil and mash the greens, boil them for half an horn- with a quart of good stock or liquor in which meat has baen boiled, and thicken the soup with powdered biscuit or finelygrated bread-crumbs. Probable cost, 8d. per quart. Sufficient for four or six persons. PapaW. This fruit is the produce of a branchless tree found in the East and West Indies, is about the size of an ordinary melon, and is not imlike a gourd in shape. It is more wholesome than palatable, but is often eaten both raw and cooked. The usual time for gathering it is when the fruit is half-grovsrn. Papillote Sauce, for Veal or Mutton Cutlets (a la Maintenon). Shred half PAB ( 503 ) PAR an ounce of fat bacon into a stewpan -with two small onions, finely minced. Fry them gently for four minutes, then add half a pint of thick bro'w-n sauce, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, or failing these, a table-spoonful of ketchup, a tablespoonful of linely-minced parsley, and a lump of sugar. Boil the sauce for live minutes. It may be served either hot or cold. If the flavour be liked, the saucepan can be rubbed briskly with a clove of garlic before the other ingredients arc put in. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Paradise, Grains of, or Cardamom Seeds. Cardamoms are the capsules of a species of plant of the natural order scitaminca;. The seeds form an aromatic pungent spice, weaker than pepper, and with a peculiar but pleasant taste. They are used in this country in confectionery, but not to a very great extent. In Asia, however, they are a favourite condiment ; and in the north of Germany they are employed in ahnost every household to flavour pastry. Several kinds of cardamoms occur in commerce, but none are equal to what are known as Malabar cardamoms, grown in the mountains of Malabar and Canara. Paradise Pudding. Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a salt-spoonful of salt, four table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, the grated rind and strained juice of a fresh lemon or a bitter orange, and six largo apples, chopped small. Mix the diy ingredients thoroughly, then add three well-whisked eggs and a table-spoonful of brandy. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, which it will quite fill, tie a floured cloth over it, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boU quickly until it is done enough. Serve the pudding on a hot dish, with a sauce made as follows, poured over it : Put three table-spoonfuls of apple-jelly into an enamelled saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Stir them gently until the jelly is dissolved, then pour in gradually a quarter of a pint of thick cream, and stir the sauce briskly \mtil it is on the point of boiling. It is then ready for serving. If preferred, this pudding may be baked instead of boiled. Time to boil the pudding, three hours ; to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Paris Loaves. WMsk the whites of three eggs to a solid froth, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar. Take a poimd of finger-biscuits, divide them in twos, spread a little jam between them, and press them together. Brush them over lightly with the sugar icing, then put what remains of it into a paper cornet, squeeze the top to make the contents ooze out of the hole at the end, and in this way ornament the loaves in any ?way that fancy dictates. Shake a little sugar over them, and dry in a cool oven until they are lightly browned. The appearance of the loaves will be improved if, just before they are served, a little bright-coloured jeUy of different colours is laid between the ornamental lines. Time, a few minutes to dry the icing. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. Paris Pudding. Put a pint of now milk into a saucepan with three small table-sjooonf uls of ground rice ; stir it over the tire until it thickens, and when it is nearly cold, mix with it the yolks of four, and the wliites of two eggs, together with three ounces of finoly-slired beef suet, three ounces of chopped ai:)ples, weighed after they are peeled and cored, two tablespoonfuls of chopped raisins, two tablespoonfuls of powdered rusks or finely-grated bread-crumbs, and a table-spoonful of good jam. Blanch and pound twelve sweet almonds and two bitter ones, mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, foui' ounces of minced candied peel, a grated nutmeg, and two or three drops of vaniUa essence. Add the flavourings to the rest of the ingredients, and beat all together for some minutes. A tablespoonful of brandy may be added or not ; jdout the mixture into a well oiled mould, which it will quite fill, cover it with a sheet of oUed paper, tie it in a cloth, put into boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. Paris Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. Put a glassful of sherry into an enamelled saucepan, with a largo table-spoonful of powdered sugar and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the mixtm-e until it begins to thicken, then add very gradually three tablespoonfuls of thick cream ; the siiuce must not boil after the cream is added. Time, three or four minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherrj', 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Parisienne, Cream a la {sec Cream a la Parisienne). Parkin, Gingerbread { cc Gingerbread Parkin). Parliament or "Parley" Cakes. Put two ounces of fresh butter into an oiii-then jar with one pound of best treacle, and place the jar neai- the fire untU the butter is dissolved. Pour the warmed liquid upon one pound of flour, add a table-spoonful of powdered ginger, a piece of pearlash the size of a nut, and a little alum ; beat the mixture until it is smooth, then put it in a cool place untU the next day. Poll it out thin, cut it into oblong squares, and bake these on a buttered tin in a moderate oven. Time to bake, from twenty nxinutes to half an hour. Probable cost, about 8d. for thia quantity. Parliament Pudding. Whisk the yolks of seven and the whites of four GggB well, first separately and afterwards together. Boil half a pound of loaf sugar with a pint of water, skim it carefully. TVlien it is a clear syrup, pour it over the eggs, add the strained juice of a large lemon, and the yellow part of half of it, which has been rubbed 'upon sugar and powdered. Beat the mixture for several minutes, and whilst beating shake in gi-adually haK a pound of dried flour. Take care there are no lumps in the batter. Pour it into a buttered tin, and bake it in a -well-heated oven PAB (5G4 ) PAR till it is nicely set, say for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parmesan and Cauliflower. Boil a moderate-sized cauliflower in the usual way, and drain it well. Put a large table-spoontul of grated Parmesan into a ste\vpan, wdth a quarter of a pint of good white sauce, and let them simmer together for four or five minutes, then put in the di-aincd cauliflower, and let it boil very gently for ten minutes. Put the vegetable into a hot disli, gi-atc another tablespoonful of Parmesan over it, brown it with a salamander, or put in the Dutch oven for a minute or two, jmux the sauce over it, and serve. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Parraesan and Soup. Grated Parmesan should be served with macaroni and all other soups made with Italian pastes. Parmesan Cheese, British. Put a piece of rennet into some fresh milk, about 76 deg. in temperature. Let it stand an hour or two, then put it over a gentle fire, and let it heat very gradually until the cui-d separates. Throw in haK a cupful of cold water to assist the separation, hft out the curd, drain the liquid entirely from it, and press in the usual way. Rub it every day for twenty-one days vrith a little salt, and be careful that it di-ics gradually. The milk should be heated until the curd separates. Parmesan Cheese, Cauliflowers with {sec Cauliflowers). Parmesan Cheese, Cod and {see Cod. and Parme.s;ui Cheese). Parmesan Cheese, Lamb Chops Fried with {xec Lamb Chops Fried with Parmesan Cheese). Parmesan Cheese, Nouilles with {see Nouilles with Parmesan or au Gratin). Parmesan Cheese, Potatoes Sliced with {see Potatoes Sliced with Parmesan Cheese). Parmesan Cheese Straws. Beat three ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it three ounces of dried flour, three ounces of grated Parmesan, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne. EoU the paste out thin ; cut it into strips three inches long, and the thii-d of an inch broad, and bake them on a buttered tin in a quick oven. Serve them immediately, piled high on a napkin. Time, a few minutes to bake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Parmesan Fondue. Mix an ounce of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water, and stir into it half a pint of boiling milk. Season the mixture with a little pepper and salt, and haK a tea-spoonful of made mustard, and add one ounce of fresh butter and three ounces of grated Parmesan; then put it aside to cool. Have ready a well-oiled mould, sufficiently large to allow for rising. Beat the yollcs of three eggs, and stir them into the batter, and at the last moment add the whites of the eggs, which have been Avhisked to a polid froth. Bake in a quick oven. When set, the fondue is done enough, and must be served immediately. Time, from half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Parmesan Puffs. Put four ounces of finely-gTated bread-crumbs, four ounoes of grated Parmesan, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little salt and cayenne into a mortar, and pound them thoroughly. Bind the mixture together with a well-beaten egg, and make it up into balls, the size of a large walnut. Egg and bread-crumb these, and fry them until they are lightly browned. The fat must not be quite boiling when the puffs are put in, or they will be too highly coloured. Drain them, and serve very hot, piled on a napkin. Time, four or five minutes to fry the puffs. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parr. This is the name applied to salmon until the close of their second year, when they lose their dark lateral bars by the super-addition of a silvery pigment {see Salmon). Parsley. The foliage of parsley is of u-so for flavouring soups, &c., besides which it is nutritious and stimulating, a quality which it seems to derive from an essential oil present in every part of the plant. Among the varieties of parsley are : Plain-leaved parsley, which used to be the only sort employed in cooking. It is not much cultivated now, however, the curled varieties being much more elegant ; besides and this is a good reason for avoiding it it bears a marked resemblance to a poisonous British weed, the bitter hemlock, or fool's parsley. It is well to know that the leaves of fool's parsley are of a darker hue than the genuine article, and that when bruised they emit a very unpleasant odour. When in flower, fool's parsley may also be distinguished by what is popularly termed its head. CuSed-leaf parsley. Tliis, both for flavour and appearance as a garnish, is the best sort of parsley. It cannot, too, be mistaken for hemlock, being quite unlike that plant. Parsley is a great favourite with sheep, hares, and rabbits, and is said to give their flesh a fine flavour. Naples parsley, or celerj'-parsley, is used in place of celery". It is a variety between parsley and celerj'. ' Hamburg parsley is cultivated for its roots. These grow as large as small parsnips. When boiled they are very tender, and agreeable to the taste, besides being very wholesome. They are used in soup or broth, or eaten with meat. The cultivation of parsley is extremely simple ; an annual sowing is generally made. Parsley and Liver Sauce {see Liver and Parsley Sauce). Parsley, Cairs Brains and {sec Calf's Brains and Parsley). Parsley, Crisp. Crisp parsley is generally used for ganiisliing dishes. Pick and wash a handful oi voung parsley. Shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, and spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a Dutch oven before the fire. Turn the bunches frequently -until they are quite crisp. Parsley is much more easily crisped than fried. Time, six or seven minutes to crisp. Probable cost, Id. Plate VI ' #' iy i M n Mia :'= . ' p ?WaIlei:L'.A Itt.Hitim iiaidin I, Stand with Peaches, Greengages, Red Plums & Pineapple. 2, Dish of Red, Black & White Currants __ 3, Dish of Cherries & Strawberries. ?4, Centre-piece with Mixed Fruit. PAR ( 505 ) PAB Parsley, Fried (for garnishing). Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly, by swinging it backwards and forwards in a cloth. Put it into hot fat, and stir it gently until it is crisp ; take it out immediately, and drain it before the fire. If the parsley is allowed to remain in the fat one moment after it is crisjD it will be spoilt. Parsley is best fried in a frying-basket. If this is not at hand, the parsley should be taken out of the fat with a slice. Parsley Fritters, Bread and {see Bread and Parsley Fritters). Parsley Juice, for Colouring Sauces, &e. Pick a handful of young parsley-leaves from the stalks, wash and dry them well, and pound them in a mortar. Press the juice from them into a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it simmer gently until it is warm, when it is ready for use. The juice of spinach-leaves is used as well as that of parsley for colouring. It is prepared in the same way. Time, three or four minutes to simmer the jvuce. Parsley Sauce. The excellence of this sauce depends greatly upon the parsley-leaves being chopped very small. Take a handful of fresh parsley, if procurable. Wash it, pick off the leaves, and boil them quickly in salt and water for three miuutes. Drain them well, and mince them as finely as possible, then stir them into haK a pint of well-made melted butter or white sauce, and serve immediately. If preferred, the parsley may be boiled for ten minutes, then chopped small, bruised, put into a tureen, and the sauce poured over it. A little cold butter, broken into small pieces, should then be stirred into the hot sauce until it is melted, and the sauce served immediately. It is always best to send parsley sauce to table in a tureen instead of pouring it over the meat. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsley Sauce, Imitation. When parsley cannot be procured, a good imitation of it may be made by tjdng a tea-spoonful of parsley-seed in a little muslin, and boiling it with the water of which the sauce is to be made till it is nicely flavoured. A few spinachleaves boiled, chopped, and stirred into the sauce wiU give the appearance of parsley, as the seed will impart its flavour. Time, a few minutes to boil the seed. Parsley (when and how to Preserve it for Winter use). Gather the sprigs of parsley in May, June, and July. Wash them well, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water sHghtly salted. Let them boil for two minutes, then take them out, drain and dry them before the fire as quickly as possible, put them in a tin box, and store them in a dry place. Before using the parsley, soak it in warm water for a few minutes to freshen it. Parsnip. This plant is a native of Britain. It contains a considerable quantity of sugar, and is disUked by some on account of its peculiarly sweet taste. It is a frequent accompaniment to salt fish during Lent. In Scotland parsnips and potatoes are beat up together, 33 butter being added; it is a dish of which children are particularly fond. The parsnip is less digestible than the potato, on account of the woody fibre which it contains. The potato is superior to it in possessing more sugar, starch, and nutritious matter. On the introduction, therefore, of potatoes into the Old World, parsnips fell rather into the background. Tlie common parsnip is a cultivated variety of the mid parsnip. It contains less water and more nutritive matter, as well as more woody fibre and less sugar, than either turnips or carrots. One hundi'ed parts of parsnips contain : Water 82-039 Albumen and casein . . . 1-215 Sugar 2-882 Starch 3-507 Fat 0-546 Gum 0-748 Woody fibre 8-022 Mineral matter . , . . 1-041 Or, Water 82-0 Flesh and force producers . . 1-2 Force producers .... lo-8 Mineral matter 1.0 The parsnip is chiefly used in winter. It is improved rather than the reverse by frost ; but is apt to become rusty if allowed to remain too long in the ground. After it has begun to grow again in spring it exhibits acrid qualities. The root of the parsnip is in demand in the North of Ireland for making a fermented liquor, with yeast and hops, and both in Great Britain and Ireland for making parsnip wine {see Parsnip Wine), which is held to resemble malmsey wine. Parsnips may be dressed in thesame way as carrots, which they very much resemble. When boUed they are generally served with boiled meat, or boiled salt fish,, or when fried, with roast mutton. If young, theyrequire only to be washed and scraped beforethey are boiled, all blemishes being of courseremoved. If old and large, the skin must be pared off and the roots cut into quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent to table together. It should be remembered that parsnips are more quickly boiled than carrots. Parsnip Cake. Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, and carefully remove any fibrous stringy pieces there may be. Mix a tea-cupful of the mashed parsnip witli a quart of hot milk, add a tea-spoonful of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a warm place cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise again ; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a fewminutes, and bake them in a hot oven. These cakes should be eaten hot. They do not taste of the parsnips. Time, some hours to rise ; about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, PAR ( 506 ) PAR Is. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight j persons. Parsnip Fritters. Boil four good-sized , parsnips in salted water until quite tender. Drain them, beat them to a pulp, and then squeeze the water from them as much as possible. Bind them together by mi.xing smootlily with them an egg and a desseii-spoonf'.il of flour. Make them into oval cakes with a spoon, and fr ' in hot di'ipping until they are lightly browned on both sides. Drain them on an inverted sieve, and servo neatly piled on a hot napkin. Time to boil the parsnips, an hour or more ; to fry them, a few minutes. Probable '? cost, 6d. Suificient for five or si.x persons. i Parsnip Pudding. Wash, scrape, and boil four or five large parsnips, mash them, and press them through a colander. Stir in with them a little grated nutmeg, or any other ' flavouring, one ounce of fresh butter, and four ell-beaten eggs, together with two tablespoonfuls of brandy, if approved. Butter a [ pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and strew tinely- I grated bread-crumbs thickly over ; divide one j ounce of butter into small pieces, and place these here and there upon the pudding. Bake in a modeiate oven, and servo vith sweet sauce. This pudding may be boiled instead of baked. When this is done, the mould into which the I mixture is put should be thickly lined with 1 finely-grated bread-crumbs before the pudding ; is put in. Time, about an hour and a half to bake ; an hour and a quarter to boU. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for fi-ve or six persons. I Parsnip Soup. Put half a dozen sliced j parsnips into a stewpan, with two onions, half a dozen sticks of celery, and two quarts of good light-coloured stock. Stew the vegetables until they are tender, then drain them, press thorn through a coarse sieve, and return the i puree to the soup. Let it boil, flavour with a little salt and pepper, or cayenne, and serve very hot. It ought to be as thick as peas soup. The excessive sweetness of parsnip soup may be corrected by the addition of a little tomato, or a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar. Time, about two hours to stew the vegetables. Probable cost, lOd. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnip Wine. This beverage is highly spoken of by those who are accustomed to home-made wines. Clean and quarter the roots, carefully remove any spongy or decayed portions from them, and cut them into pieces about four inches long. After they are thus prepared, weigh them, and boil them, allowing four or five pounds of the roots to each gallon of water. When they are tender, without being pulpy, leave the lid off the copper for a short time, to allow the strong aromatic odour which will arise to escape, then strain the liquid through a hair sieve into a tub, and be careful in doing so not to bruise the roots. Add immediately half an ounce of powdered white argol to each gallon of wine, and when it has been stirred a few minutes, introduce three pounds of loaf sugar, and stir again until the latter is dissolved. Leave the liquid uncovered until it is almost cold, that is, until it is reduced to a temperature of eighty-five degrees. Cut a thick round of bread from a half-quai'tern loaf, toast it, and moisten it with fresh yeast (two table-spoonfuls will be sufficient for six gallons of wine) ; put this into the liquid, cover the vessel which contains it with a flannel, and stir it every day until the fennentatioa subsides. The vessel should be kept in a room or cellar where from fifty to fifty-live degrees may be kept up, and the yeast should be skimmed off as it forms. In ten days or a fortnight the wine may be turned into the cask. If a sweet wine is wanted the barrel should be filled to the bung, and left for a few days ; then as it overflows it should be filled up with a small quantity of the Hquid which has been preserved for the purpose. When it is quiet, the hole may be covered with a piece of brown paper, and if that remains unmoved for a week the cask may be loosely bunged down, and in a day or two, when the "fretting" is quite over, made tight. This -wine may be racked ott' in six months, but should not be bottled for at least a )ear. When a dry wine is wanted, leave the hquid in the open vessel until all the beer yeast has risen and been slrimmed off, then put it into the cask, and leave an inch or two of space in the barrel ; frequently stir in the yeasty froth, and to prevent the Hquor escaping cover it with a slate. Skim the liquor thoroughly before securing it, and be careful not to fill up the cask until the wine is quite tranquil. Time to fennent the liquid, ten or fourteen days, until the feimentation subsides. Probable cost, Is. lOd. per gallon. Parsnip Wine, A Simple Way of Making. Take eighteen pounds of parsnips, and ten gallons of water. Boil the parsnips in the water till they are quite soft, then strain and squeeze out the liquor, and to every gallon add three pounds of lump sugar. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, and when cool, ferment with a Uttle yeast on a toast. Let the liquid stand ten days in a tub, stining every day. At the end of that time put it into a cask. The pai-snip wine will be fit for bottling in six or seven months. Parsnips, Boiled. Wash and scrape the parsnips, and carefully remove any blemishes there may be about them. Cut them into quartei's, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water, slightly salted. Let them boil quickly, until they arc sufficiently tender for a fork or skewer to pierce them easily, then take them up, drain them, and send them to table as quickly as possible. The water in which parsnips are boiled should be carefully skimmed two or three times after the roots are put in. Time, from half an hour to an hour and a half, according to the age and size of the parsnips. Probable cost, l d. each. Sufficient, one large parsnip for two persons. Parsnips, Boiled, Cold. Cold parsnips are very good eaten cold with cold meat. To wann them up, ]iut them into an earthen jar, cover closely, and pkce the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling for about twenty minutes; the parsnips may PAR (507) FAB then be served, and will be almost as good as when first dressed. Parsnips Browned under Roast Meat. Boil the parsnips until tender, according to the directions given above. Take them up, drain well, sprinkle a little salt and jjepper over them, put them in the dripping-pan before the fire under the joint they are to accompany, and let them remain until they are nicely browned. Send them to table in a dish by themselves, with two or three round the meat as a garnish. Time, about a quarter of an hour to brown the parsnips. Probable cost, Ijd. each. Sufficient, one large parsnip for two persons. Parsnips, Pried. Boil four or five large Xiarsnijjs in salted water until they are tender, but unbroken. Drain tlicm well, and cut them either into rounds or long slices, a quarter of an inch thick. Dip them into frying batter, and fry them in hot lard or diipping until tliey are lightly browned on both sides. Drain well, and serve very hot, as an accompaniment to roasted joints or fowls. The batter may bo made as follows : Break an ounce of fresh butter into small pieces, and pour over it about two table-spoonfuls of boiling water, stir until it is dissolved, then add a third of a pint of cold water and a Httle siilt and pepjoer, and mix in, very gradually, six ounces of fine flour. Just before the batter is used, add the white of an egg beaten to a iirm froth. Time, one hour or more to boil the parsnips ; a few minutes to fry the rounds. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnips, Mashed. Scrape and boil fom- or five parsnips in salted water until quite tender, then di-ain them, mash them, and press them through a colander. Put them into a stewpan, vith two or three table-spoonfuls of cream ; failing this, of milk, thickened with a small tea-spoonful of flour and a little butter. Stir the parsnips over the fire until the liquid is absorbed and they arc quite hot; then turn them into a tureen, and serve immediately. Time to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a haK, according to age and size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnips, Stewed. Boil two moderatesized parsnips until tender, then drain, and cut them in slices, about half an inch thick and three inches long. Make a little good white sauce with two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of stock, the third part of a pint of new millc (or cream, if obtainable), and a little salt, popper, and gTatod nutmeg. Stir this sauce over the fire tmtil it is smooth and thick, put in the sliced parsnii- s, simmer for a few minutes, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to simmer the parsnips in the sauce. Probable cost, 8d., if the sauce be made with milk. Sufficient for four or five person.";. Parson's Pudding. Line a pie-dish with pufi: paste, place in it a layer of any jam or jelly, cover this with bread and butter, without crust, and pour over it a quart of milk, i':. which four eggs and a quarter of a pound of ground rice have been mixed and well sweetened. Bake in a quick oven. Time, over an hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for six or seven pei'sons. Partridges. Partridges, like other game, should be hung as long as it is safe to keep them. They should be chosen young, as an old bird is comparatively worthless. They are in season from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. Partridges when young covey together, and thus the sportsman often shooLs several at once. \ Tien the winter comes on they retire to the upland meadows, and hide themselves among the grass. They are simple and timorous birds, and are easily taken. The eggs of partridges are frequently hatched under the domestic hen, and the young fed on ants, cggTB, curds, and gi'its, with a little green food ; when old enough they are fed with grain, lliey are easily tamed, though it is said they never wholly forget their wild origin. The female partridge is smaller than her mate, and less pleasing iii colour ; her back is darker, and her belly without the brown patch in its centre. The male is twelve inches long tad twenty broad, and the wing measures six and the tail three inches. The common partridge is almost exclusively a European bird. In Europe it is extensively distributed in all suitable localities, and inhabits all the level parts of England and Scotland. Partridges, Baked (a ritalienne). Pluck and truss a brace of partridges as if for roasting, and put into each bird a forcemeat made as follows : Grate half an ounce of stalo bread into very fine cruml)s. Season these with as much salt and white pepper as will stand on a threepenny-piece, and half a dozen grates of nutmeg ; work in with the fingers an ounce of butter, and add a tea-spoonful of finelyminced parsley and a tea-spoonful of lemonjuice. Dip two sheets of note-paper into some pure salad-oil; peel, mince finely, and mi.x thoroughly, three good-sized mushrooms, a moderate-sized carrot, a small onion, two tablespoonfuls of parsley-leaves, and haK a dozen leaves of thyme, with two or three trufiles, if these are obtainable. Divide the minced vegetables into two equal portions, and spread them upon the paper, lay the partridges upon them, and cover the breasts with fat bacon, tied securely round with twine, and fasten the paper. Lay the birds side bv side, breasts uppcmiost, in a acep pan, cover the partridges closely, bake in a good oven, and baste once or twice during the process. AVhen they arc done enough, take off the paper and the bacon, put the birds on a hot dish, and pour over them a sauce made as follows : Put half a pint of good stock into a saucepan, with an onion, the trimmings of the mut hrooms and truffles, a slice of cuirot, and a little salt and pepper, if required. Boil quickly for half an hour, then strain the sauce, thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of flour, add a dessert-spoonful of browning, two table-spoonfuls of claret, and the minced vegetables which covered the partridges; boil up once, and serve. Time, three-quarters of an. hour to bake the birds, if PAB PAR of moderate size. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Boiled (Invalid Cookery). Pai-tridges are occasionally boiled for old persons or invalids, and they are delicate and tender served thus. Wash them well, truss them as chickens are trussed for boiling, without the heads. Drop them into boiling water, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt over them, and let them simmer very gently for a quarter of an hour, or if the birds are old, twenty minutes. Serve them with sliced lemon round the dish, and with white sauce, celery sauce, or bread sauce, accompanied by game gravy, in a tureen. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised (a la Bearnaise). Pluck and draw a brace of partridges, and wipe them carefully with a damp cloth inside and out, cut off the heads, and truss the legs like those of boiled fowls. Put them into a stewpan, with two-table-spoonfuls of oil and a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and turn them about over a clear fire until they are slightly browned all over, then pour over them two table-spoonfuls of strong stock, one glassful ?f sherry, and two table-spoonfuls of preserved tomatoes, with a little salt, and plenty of pepper. Simmer all gently together until the partridges are done enough, and serve very hot ; the sauce should be rather highly seasoned. Time, about ten minutes to simmer the partridges. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace ; the price, however, is very variable. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised (ala Peine). Truss a brace of partridges as if for boiling. PiU them with good game forcemeat, in which there are two or three truffles cut into small pieces, and tie thin slices of fat bacon over them. Slice a small carrot into a stewpan, with an onion, four or five sticks of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh butter. Place the partridges on these, breasts uppermost, pour over them half a pint of good stock, cover with a round of buttered paper, and simmer as gently as possible, until the partridges are done enough. Strain the stock, free it carefully from grease, thicken it with a little flour, add as much browning as is necessary, and flavour with cayenne, half a dozen drops of the essence of anchovy, and a table- spoonful of sherry. Stir this sauce over a gentle fire until it is on the point of boiling, then pour it over the partridges, already dished upon toast, and serve immediately. Time, two hours to simmer the partridges. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised, with Cabbage. Pluck and draw two partridges, truss them as if for boiling, and cover with thin slices of bacon, tied on securely with strong twine. Trim and wash two small cabbages, or a savoy, boil them, \mcovered, for a quarter of an hour, and afterwards drain them thoroughly. Slice a carrot, an onion, and some sticks of celery, into a stewpan. Put with them three ounces of fresh butter, a large lump of sugar, crushed to po wder, a salt-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a grated nutmeg, and a little salt, the quantity to be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Put a layer of cabbage over these, then lay in the partridges, breasts uppermost, and afterwards the rest of the cabbage. Cover the whole with good stock, then simmer as gently as possible until the partridges are done enough ; keep moistening them with gravy, if required. Dish the birds upon the bacon, and put the cabbage round them. To make the gravy, mix an ounce of butter with an ounce of flour, and stir them over the fire for three minutes, add a pint of good stock, and boil quickly for ten minutes. Strain the gravy into a tureen, and serve immediately. Fried sausages are often sent to table with this dish, which is a great favourite in France. Time, two hours to simmer the birds, &c. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace, but the price varies. Sufficient for four persons. Partridges, Braised, with Mushrooms, Pick, draw, singe, and truss as for boiling, a brace of young well-kept partridges. Dredge a little flour over them, and brown them equally and lightly in hot butter. Put them side by side into a stewpan, pour to them as much rich brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, as will half cover them, and let them stew very gently until they are half done. Turn them over, put into the gravy with them two dozen small mushrooms, and simmer again Tintil the birds are done enough. Serve them on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over them. Time, one hour to simmer the birds. Probable cost, Ss. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges, Braised, with Truffles. Truss three young well-hung partridges, and braise them according to the directions given in the last recipe. Wash, wipe, and pare two or three fine truffles. Cut them into thin slices, put them into a stewpan, with a little salt and cayenne, a finely-minced shallot, and two table- spoonfuls of chopped parsley. Fry them gently for about a quarter of an hour, and be careful not to break them ; then drain them, and put with them half an ounce of butter, the strained juice of a lemon, and a quarter of a pint of the brown gravy in which the partridges have been cooked. Let the sauce boil. Drain the partridges. Place them on a hot dish, in the form of a triangle, pour part of the sauce into the centre, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, one hour to braise the partridges ; a quarter of an hour to fry the truffles. Probable cost of partridges, Is. 6d. each; truffles, variable. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Partridges, Broiled. Prepare the partridges as if for roasting ; cut off their heads, split them entirely up the back, and flatten the breastbones a little. Wipe them thoroughly inside and out with a damp cloth, season with salt and cayenne, and broil over a gentle fire. As soon as they arc done enougb rub them quickly over with butter, and send them to table on a hot dish, with brown gravy or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time, fifteen nainutes to broil the partridges. Probable cost PAB PAR of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four persons. Partridges, Broiled (another way). Prepare the partridges as in the last recipe, sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, then dip them twice into clarified butter and very fine bread-crumbs, taking great care that the birds are entirely covered. Place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them gently. Send them to table on a hot dish, with brown sauce or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time to broil the partridges, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Ss. per brace. Sufficient for iover persons. Partridges, Chartreuse of. Boil some carrots and turnips separately, and cut them into pieces two inches long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Braise two small summer cabbages, or a savoy, drain them well, and stir them over the fire until they are quite dry ; then roU them on a cloth, and cut them into pieces about two inches long and an inch thick. Eoast a brace of partridges, and cut them into neat joints. Butter a plain entree mould ; line it at the bottom and the sides with buttered paper, and afterwards fit in the pieces of carrot and turnip, to form a sort of wall; then fill it up with the cabbage and the pieces of partridge in alternate layers. Steam the chartreuse to make it hot ; turn it out of the mould upon an entree dish and garnish with turnips, carrots, and French beans. Send some good brown sauce to table with it. Time, half an hour to roast the partridges; two hours to braise the cabbage ; steam the chartreuse until it is quite hot. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four or Partridges, Choosing. Partridges should be chosen young : when the legs are yellow, the bills sharp and darkcoloured, and the under feathers of the wings PARTRIDGK. pointed. If the vent is stiff, the bird is fresh, and if it is green and discoloured, the bird has been killed some time. The legs turn grey as the bird grows older. Old partridges are not good for much. The season for the common partridge lasts from September to February. Partridges, Cold, Sauce for. Boil an egg until it is quite hard. Let it get cold, then rub it well with the back of a wooden spoon, and with it the flesh of a very small anchovy, from which the bones and skin have been removed, also a finely-minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a httle cayenne. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, add, very gradually, two table-spoonfuls of oil and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Strain the sauce through muslin, and swve. Time, ten minutes to boil the egg. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persona. Partridges, Mayonnaise of. Roast a brace of partridges, cut them into neat joints, and put them aside for a few minutes. Boil two eggs for ten minutes, put them into cold water, and when they are cold take out the yolks, put them into a basin, and rub them smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Add a small quantity of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, then very gradually four table-spoonfuls of oil, one table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of aspic jelly, or failing this, good stock, with as much spinach- juice as will make the sauce a bright green. Stir the contents of the saucepan over the fire for a minute or two, then put in the pieces of partridge, and let them remain until they are quite hot. Serve the partridges on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over, and garnish with slices of anchovy and toasted sippets. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Pie of. Pluck, draw, and singe three young partridges, and divide them into halves, lengthwise. Mince the livers finely, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of bread-crimibs, and as much powdered mace as wiU cover a threepenny-piece; then put the forcemeat into the birds, and a piece of fresh butter, the size of a walnut, in each half. Butter a shallow pie-dish, and line the edges with a good crust. Lay a slice of lean veal at the bottom, and season lightly with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Wrap the birds in thin slices of fat bacon, pack them closely, breast downwards, upon the veal, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of good veal stock. Cover the dish with the pastrj-, ornament it prettil} , brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. This is a savoury dish, suitable either for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges, Pie of (another way) .-Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of young partridges, and season them, inside and out, with a little salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Cover them with thin rashers of fat bacon, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of veal stock, or water ; put on the lid, and let them simmer as gently as possible for half an hour. Whilst they are simmering, make a forcemeat, by mincing together, very finely, a quarter of a pound of lean veal, a qiiarter o5f a pound of fat bacon, and a quarter of a pound of liver. Season this with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, and spread half of the forcemeat at the bottom of the dish. Take out the birds, and cut them into quarters. Lay half of the bacon which was tied round them upon the forcemeat, then pack in the partridges, and cover them with the remainder of the forcemeat and bacon. PAB ( ?'510 ) PAK Pour in throe table-spoonfuls of the gravy in which the partridges were simmered. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, and cover with tho same. Make a hole in the centre and bake in a quick oven. Before sending the pie to table, pour in a quarter of a pint of good gravy, which has been slightly flavoiu-ed with lemon-juice. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Pie of, Hrmter's. Pluck, draw, and singe three young partridges. Divide them into halves, sprinkle over them a httle salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, and fiy them in a little hot butter until they are equally and lightly browned all over. Line the edges of a shallow pie-dish with a good crust. Lay two or three thin slices of the fillet of veal and bacon at the bottom, and sprinkle over them two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced mushrooms, a table-spoonful of chopped j arsley, and a little salt and cayenne. If mushrooms cannot be had, a table-spoonful of mushi-oom ketchup must supply their place. Pour a quarter of a pint of onion sauce over the veal, then pack tho birds closely into the dish, breast uppermost, and add some more mushrooms, parsley seasoning, and onion sauce. Cover the pie with a good crust, ornament it prettily, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. Pour a quarter of a pint of melted savoury jelly into the pie before sending it to table. Time, an hour and a half to bake the pie. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for five or six Partridges, Potted. Prepare and truss the partridges as if for roasting, and season them inside and out with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put a piece of fresh butter, the size of a largo egg, inside the birds, and pack them, breast do\vnwards, closely together in a piedish. Place three or four pieces of butter upon them, cover tho dish with a coarse paste, made of flour and water, and bake them in a moderate oven. Do not remove the covering until the dish is quite cold ; then take out the birds, free them entirely from gravy, cut them into convenient-sized pieces, and pack them as closely as possible in a potting-jar, cover with claiified butter, and store in a cool place. Time, one hour to bako the partridges. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Potted (another way). Pick the meat from the remains of cold roast partridges, which have been well dressed. Remove all the skin and gi-istle, mince the meat finely, and pound it in a mortar. Add, every now and then, a small quantity of fresh butter, and season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. When the meat is quite smooth, press it into small jars, cover with dissolved butter, and store in a cool place. About two ounces and a half of butter will be required for each half pound of meat. Time, forty minutes to roast the partridges. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Partridges, Pudding of. The flavour of partridges is never better preserved than when they are cooked in a pudding. Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of well-kept partridges, cut them into neat joints, and if they are not very young, take off the skin before doing so. Line a quai-t pudding-basin with a good suet crust, half an inch in thickness, and in trimming it off leave an inch above the edge. Lay a thin shco of rump steak at the bottom of the pudding, then put in the pieces of partridge, season with pepper and salt, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy. RoU out the cover, lay it on the pudding, moisten the edge, and pi-ess over it the inch that was left round the rim. Wring a pudding-cloth out of hot water, flour it well, and tie it securely over the pudding. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it fast boiling all the time it is on the fire ; as soon as it ia taken off, cut a small round of pastry out of the top, to let the steam escape. If the appearance is not objected to, partridge pudding, like all other meat puddings, is much better when served in the dish in which it was cooked- If it is to be turned out, however, the basin must be thickly buttered before the pastry is put in. A few mushrooms wiU be a great improvement to this pudding, though it will bo very good without. Time, three hours to boil. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Partridges, Red-Legged. These biids should be cooked according to the directions DED-LEGGED PARTEIDGE. given for the ordinary partridges. If they be hung a proper length of time they are very good, otherwise they are hard and tasteless. Probable cost uncertain, red-legged partridges being seldom offered for sale. Partridges, Roast. Let the partridges hang as long aS possible, or the flesh will be hard and flavourless. In cool weather they should be kept fully a foi'tniglit before they are put down to the fire. They may be trussed either with or without the head, though the latter mode is at present more generally preferred. Pluck, singe, and draw the birds, and -vripe them carefully, inside and out ; cut off the heads, and leave enough skin on the neck to skewer them securely. Draw the legs close to the breast, pass the trussing-needlo and string through the pinions and the middle joints of the thighs, and tie and skewer the legs. If the heads are left on, they should be brought round, and turned under the wing, with the bill laid on the breast. To give the birds a plump appearance, pass the needle through the back, below the thighs, then again through the body and legs, and tie the strings firmly. Put the PAB ( 511 ) PAB l)irds down before a clear fire, baste liberally with butter (a quarter of a pound will be lequired for a brace), and a few minutes before tliey are taken up flour them well, so that they may brown nicely. The birds may be dished upon fried bread-crumbs, or upon a sHce of buttered toast, which has been soaked in the gravy in the pan under the birds, or they may be put on a hot dish, and garnished with watercresses. Brown gravy and bread-sauce should be sent to table with them ; two or three thin sUces of fat bacon, tied lound the birds before they are put down to the fire, will greatly improve their flavour ; when obtainable, a large \ane-leaf may be laid on the breasts under the bacoji. Time to roast a brace of partridges, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. per brace ; but the price varies considerably. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Roast (a German recipe). Truss the partridges in the ordinary way. Place a vine-leaf upon the breast of each, over this lay two or three tliiu slices of fat bacon, and fasten these on securely with strong twine. Put the birds into a stewpan, just lai'ge enough to hold them, with as much butter as will keep them well basted, and when CARVIKG OF PAKTItlDGE. they are browned on one side turn them to the other, until they are equally coloured all over. When they are done enough, pour a cupful of thick cream over them, and sprinkle breadcrumbs, browned in butter, upon them. Time, a quarter of an hour to roast the birds. Pro- bable cost, 3s. per brace. Sufiicient for fouror five persons. Partridges, Roast, To Carve. The partridge is cut up in the sam.o way as a fowl {see Fowl, Roast, To Carve). The prime parts of a partridge are the wings, breast, and merrj-thought. When the bird is small, the two latter are not often divided. The wing is considered the best, and the tip of it considered the most dehcate morsel of the whole. " Partridges," says Dr. Kitchener, "are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant, but the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them very troublesome to carve. In connection with the subject of carving, it cannot be too often repeated, that more information will be gained by obser\ing those who carve well, and by a little practice, than by any ?written directions whatever." Partridge Salad. Roast partridges, and let them get cold ; or cut and trim the remains of cold partridges into convenient-sized pieces. Put them into a dish or bowl, then sprinkle over these a little salt and cayenne, with a table-spoonful of minced parsley, and a tablespoonful of mixrcd herbs, composed of equal portions of tairagon, chervil, and chives. Add a table-spooni'ul of good veal stock, three dessertspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and a quaiter of a pint of salad-oil. Let the partridges he in this marinade for two hours. W ash and drjthoroughly three fresh lettuces, shred theui finely, and lay them on a dish. Drain the pieces of partridge, and put them on the lettuce, ornament the dish with dried capers, parsley, gherldns, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, aspic jelly, or anything else that is preferred, and just before the salad is sent to table poui- the seasoned mixture, in which the pieces were soaked, over it. Time to roaet the partridges, about haK an hour. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Partridges, Salmi of (a la Chasseur). Take cold roast partridge if under-di-essed so much the better cut into neat joints, remove' the skin, fat, and sinew, and lay the pieces in a saucepan with four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, six table-spoonfuls of claret, the grated rind and strained juice of a large fresh lemon, and a little salt, pepper, and cayenne. Simmer gently for a few minutes until the salmi is hot throughout, then serve it immediately. Garnish with fried sippets. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufiicient for two persons. Partridges, Salmi of (a la Fran aise). Roast a brace of weU-hung young partridges, baste them liberally, and take them down when they are only three-parts cooked. Let them get cold ; then cut them into neat joints, remove the skin, fat, and sinew, and put the good parts aside, being careful to cover them, and keep them in a cool place to prevent their becoming hard. Melt three ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan. Put with it a dozen small mushI'ooms, a scraped .carrot, two sliced shallots, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a handful of parsley-leaves, a medium-sized onion, stuck with two cloves, a small sprig of thyme, and four ounces of undi'cssed lean ham, cut into small pieces. Stir these over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned, sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of flour, let it brown slightly, and then stir in, 'ery gradually, a pint of good veal gravy and a glassful of sherry. Add the bones and trimming-s of the birds, and boil the sauce gently until it is considerably reduced ; then strain it, let it boil up once more, put in the pieces of partiidge, and when they are quite hot, dish the salmi, and serve immediately. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. When mushrooms cannot be obtained, their place may bo supplied by a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the partridges. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Salmi of (another way). When the partridges are roasted expressly for tlie salmi they ought to be under-dressed, and they should not be cut up until they are quite cold. A very good salmi, however, may be made of the remains of cold partridge. Cut the birds into neat joints, PAR (512 ) PAS carefully remove the skin, fat, and sinew, and put the good pieces aside. Bruise the remainder, and put it, with the skin, bones, and trimmings, into a saucepan. Add two shallots, a bay-leaf, three or four sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh butter, and stir these about over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned. Sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of flour, and pour in three-quarters of a pint of veal stock and a glassful of sherry ; put in half a dozen peppercorns, a little salt, and half a blade of mace, and simmer the gravy very gently until it is considerably reduced. Strain it, and let it boil up again ; then put in the pieces of partridge, and when they are quite hot, serve on a hot dish, with the gravy poured over them. If liked, the livers of the birds may be pounded, and mixed with the sauce. Garnish with toasted sippets. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the gravy. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the partridge. Sufficient for two or three persons. Partridges, Salmi of, Cold. Roast a brace of young partridges ; cut them into neat joints, and lay them on a dish. Prepare the sauce according to the directions given in the last recipe. When it is sufficiently reduced, strain it, and dissolve in it a quarter of an ounce of gelatine, which has been soaked for half an hour in as much cold water as would cover it. Cover the joints of the partridges with the sauce, let it stiffen upon them, and then arrange them, pUed high in a dish, and garnish with the savoury jeUy, cut into rough pieces. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Soup of. Roast a brace of I)artridges before a brisk fire, so that they may brown quickly outside without losing their juice. Take them down when they are half dressed, cut off the breasts, and break up and bruise the bodies of the birds. Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan ; slice into it two young carrots and four or five sticks of celery, and add two ounces of undressed lean ham, an onion, stuck with four cloves, half a blade of mace, two shallots, a bay -leaf, four or five bunches of parslej', and a small sprig of thyme. .Stir these over a gentle fire until the sides of the saucepan acquire a reddish-brown tinge, then add the bodies of the birds, and, gradually, two quarts of good stock and six ounces of brown thickening. Let the soup boil, remove the fat and the scum, and press it through a fine sieve. Put it again into the saucepan with the breasts of the birds, cut into small neat pieces, add a glassful of sherry, and a little salt and cayenne, if required ; let the soup get thoroughly hot, without boiling, and serve immediately. ' A very nice soup may be made from grouse and partridge together ; or even from the remains of a cold roast grouse, stewed down with the partridges. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Soup of (another way). When partridges are too old to be satisfactorily cooked in any other way, they may be made into soup, but it must be understood that the soup will not be so good as if it were made from young birds. Skin the partridges and cut them into joints. Slice two large onions, and fry them in butter until lightly browned. Put them into a saucepan with three ounces of undi-essed lean ham and four or five sticks of celery, and poiu- over them two quarts of good stock. Bring the soup to a boil, skim carefully, then di-aw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for an hour. At the end of that time put into it a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and stew another hour. Strain the soup, pick the meat from the birds, and pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste, and with it its bulk in bread, which has been soaked in stock and pressed very dry. Mix this gradually with the soup, pass it again through a sieve, put it into a saucepan, bring it to the point of boiling, and serve immediately. Probable cost, Is. lOd. per quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Stewed. Truss a brace of partridges as if for boiling, put them into a stewpan, cover with boiling stock or water, and put with them two onions, two carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, haK a blade of mace, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer gentljuntil they are tender, then take out a pint of the liquid in which they were stewed, and make with it some celerj-, onion, or Loubise sauce. Serve the birds as hot as possible, with the puree poured over them. Time, about thirty minutes to stew the partridges. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges StuSed with Mushrooms. Take a pint of small mushrooms, and clean them by rubbing the tops with a piece of flannel and a little salt ; rinse in a little cold water, lift them out quickly, and spread them on a clean cloth to dry. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan over a slow fire, let it colour slightly, then throw in the mushrooms, sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, and shake the saucepan over the fire for ten minutes. Turn out the contents upon a dish, let them get cold, and, with them, stuff two young well-hung partridges. Sew up securely, truss firmly, and roast or stew the birds in the usual way ; send mushroom sauce, or, if preferred, bread sauce, and gravy, to table with them. Time, half an hour or more to roast the partridges, one hour to stew them. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Passover Balls. This is a name often given to forcemeat balls such as are used by the Jews ; they are put into soup, and served with it. They are made as foUows : Put four table-spoonfuls of " matso-flour," or Jewish flour, into a bowl. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, half a saltspoonful of powdered ginger, and half a saltspoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. Mix these dry ingredients thoroughly, then pour over them four ounces of beef suet, which has been steamed with a salt-spoonful of finelyminced onion, until it is entirely melted. Stir PAS ( '513 ) PAS the mixture briskly for a minute or two, and bind it together with three weU-beaten eggs. Make it up into balls, and throw these into the boiling liquid. When they are done enough, lift them out carefully with a strainer, put them into the tureen, and pour the soup over them. Serve immediately. Time to boil the balls, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Passover Cakes. Beat four fresh eggs thoroughly. Stir into them eight ounces of the jjeculiar tlour which is used only in Jewish families. Add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of lukewarm water. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put it into a tin, and bake in a brisk oven. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Paste. Becipes for making the following pastes will be found under their respective headings : Almond German Anchovy Gooseberry Apricot Italian Apricot, Green Lemon for Dessert Brioche, or French Nouilles Cheese Orange, Seville Cherry Pate Brisee Cocoa-nut Puff Croquant Regent's Currant Rice Farferl Short Flour Sweet Fruit Tart. Garlic Paste, Brioche. Brioche paste may be served in a great variety of ways, all of which are excellent. It may be baked in one large cake ; in fancy shapes, such as rings and twists; or in small loaves, rolls, or buns. Gruyere and Parmesan cheese or sweets may be introduced into it, or small portions may be stewed in soup, or fried, or used as the outer PASTE-BOARD AND PIN crust in which rissoles are cooked. Its most usual form, however, is that of a sort of double cake, the two parts being moulded separately, and moistened before they are joined, to cause them to adhere closely to one another. The upper portion of the "brioche should be made smaller than the lower one, and the entire cake should be brushed over with beaten egg before it is put into the oven. When jam is put into brioches, it should be mixed with part of the : paste, and the rest rolled out, and put round it, i so as to keep the fruit from boiling out. Cheese, on the contrary, should be well mixed j with the paste, which should then be baked in the ordinary way. Gruyere cheese should be cut into small dice, and Parmesan cheese grated for this purpose. Brioche paste is best made on the evening of the day before it is wanted, as it requires to lie in a cool place for some hours before it is baked. Though delicious, it is considered rather indigestible. It must be i baked in a well-heated oven. The quantity I only which will be wanted for immediate use should be made at one time, as brioche paste 1 will not keep. When properly prepared it is 1 light and springy to the touch before it is ' baked, and it ought to rise in the sponge to fully t-wice its original size. It is made as follows: Take a pound (weighing sixteen ounces) of dried and sifted flour. Divide it into four parts, and with one of these parts make the leaven. To do this, put the flour into a bowl, make a hollow in the middle of it, and pour into this hollow half an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a spoonful or two of warm water. Add as much water as is required to make the whole into a soft smooth paste, gather it into a ball, and put it into a bowl large enough to contain three times its quantity. Score the paste lightly across the top with the blunt side of a knife, cover with a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise; it will be ready in about twenty minutes. Whilst it is rising take the remaining three parts of the flour. Make a hole in the centre, and put into this hole a quarter of an ounce of salt, half an ounce of powdered sugar dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of tepid water, ten ounces of butter, which has been washed in two or three waters, squeezed in a cloth to free it from moisture, and broken into small pieces, and four eggs freed from the specks. Work all gently together with the fingers, and add one by one three more eggs, until the paste is quite smooth, and neither too hard to be worked easily nor so soft that it .sticks to the fingers. When the leaven is sufficiently risen, put it upon the paste, and mix both together with the fingers gently and thoroughly. Put the dough into a basin, and leave it in a warm place all night. Early on the following morning knead it up afresh, let it rise two hours longer, and knead once more before it is baked. Brioche paste should be put into a well-heated oven. The time required for baking depends, of course, upon the size of the cake. Its appearance will soon show when it is done enough. The materials here given, if baked in one cake, would require about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Paste for Common Pies. Very excellent pastry may be made with lard or dripping, instead of butter, or with a mixture of lard and dripping. Good beef fat, or suet melted gently down, and poured off before it has had time to bum, is very nearly as good as anything that can be used for making pastry for everyday use. Very palatable pies may be made from the dripping from roast beef, veal, pork, or mutton, though the last named PAS 514 ) PAS is though by some to impart a disagreeable flavour of tallow to pastry. The quantity of fat used must, of course, be regulated by the expense, and it may be remembered that a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so suitable for many dishes as a substantial hght one, and that the lightness of pastry depends quite as much upon a light, quick, cool hand as on a large amount of butter or lard. The addition of a beaten egg or a little lemon -juice to the water, or a tea-spoonful of baking-powder to the flour, will make the paste lighter. It should be remembered, however, that though bakingpowder is excellent for common pastry that is to be used immediately, pies are more likely to get dry quickly when it is used. Two recipes are here given for good plain pastry, and they may be varied according to the taste and resoui-ces of the cook. Paste for Meat or Fruit Pies, &g. Mix the eighth part of a peck of flour with some cream and raw eggs. Add half a pound of butter broken in pieces, which must not be too small, and roll the paste lightly. To make paste for custards, mix the flour with boiling water and butter, augar being added, if necessary. If this is done, it wiU be found to increase the stiftncss of the paste. Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies. Sift two pounds of flne flour to one and a half of good salt butter, break it into small pieces, and wash it weU in cold water; rub gently together the butter and flour, and mix it up wilh the yolks of throe eggs, beat together with a spoon, and nearly a pint of spring water ; roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready. Paste for Raised Pies. In making raised pies the first consideration is whether the pastry is intended to be eaten or not. If it is intended merely to form a mould in which to hold the meat, it may be made firm and compact without very much difliculty, and may be beaten with the rolling-pin or kneaded with the knuckles to make it stiff and hard. If it is intended to be eaten, greater care will be necessary. It must be remembered that small pies are much easier to make than lai-ge ones, and the very easiest and best way for inexperienced persons to make them is to use one of the tin moulds manufactured for the pm-pose, which opens at the sides. The French pastry named Pate Brisee, the recipe for which is given {see Crust, Pate Bi-isee), makes a good crust for small raised pies. AVhen the pastry is not to be eaten, dissolve three or four ouiices of lard in half a pint of boiling water, and stir in as much flour as will make a stiff smooth paste. A little more than a pound of flour will be required. Knead it thoroughly with the fingers, and when it is sufliciently firm to keep its form when moulded, put it into a bowl, and cover with a cloth until it is nearly cold. Dredge a little flour on the pastry-board, put the pastry upon it, and roll it with the hands into the shape of a sugar-loaf or cone, with the diameter of the lower part rather less than the size required for the pie. Place the cone upright, and flatten the top until it is half the height. Press it down with the knuckles of the right hand, at the same time forming the walls of the i ie with the left. When the sides are smooth, and of equal thickness, fill the pie, roll out the cover, lay it on, and make a hole in the centre. Fasten the edges securely with a little egg, ornament the pie according to fancy, glaze it by brushing it over with the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. An easier way of shaping a raised pie is to roll out the pastry to the required thickness, and then cut out a piece for the top and bottom, and a long strip for the sides. These pieces must be fastened with egg, and the edges pressed over one another, so as to be securely fastened. The pie may then be finished according to the directions given above. When the crust is intended to be eaten, the pastry may be made according to the directions given for Pate Brisee (see Cmst, Pate Brisee), or as follows : Eub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour. Sprinkle over it a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put another quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, with the third of a pint of milk. Stir it over a gentle fire until the butter is dissolved, then pour the liquid over the flour, and stir it to a smooth stiff paste. Dredge some flour over it ; give it two or three turns, and mould it into the proper shape before it has had time to cool. Time to bake raised pies, from two to five hours, according to size. Paste, French, for Meat Pies, Hot or Cold. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and rub lightly into it half a pound of fresh butter. Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and make the mixture up into a smooth stiff paste, by stirring into it two fresh eggs which have been beaten up with rather less than a quarter of a pint of water. Roll the pastry out, give it two or three turns, and bake as soon as possible. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Paste, Pufi* or Feuilletage. This paste, though decidedly superior to every other kind in appearance and taste, is rather indigestable for delicate persons. Good sweet salt butter, which has been well washed in cold water, squeezed with the hands to free it from the salt, and afterwards winmg in a cloth to take away all the moisture, is the best material which can be used for it. The consistency of the butter is of considerable importance. If it is too hard, it will not easily mix ?tt'ith the flour, but if it is too soft, the paste will be entii-ely spoilt, in consequence of the butter breaking through the edges whilst it is being rolled. As the difliculty experienced is generally to get the butter sufliciently cool, many cooks place it upon ice before using it for the pastry. In hot weather, the paste should be placed on the floor for a few minutes, to keep it cool between each timi. If very flaky pastry is required, the paste may be brushed lightly over each time it is rolled with white of egg. In making puff paste proceed as follows: Dry thoroughly and sift one pound of best flour. Put it on a marble PAS ( 515 ) PAS slab or slate, if at hand if not, on a clean pastry-board make a hole in the centre, and put into it half a tea-spoonful of salt, and rather less than half a pint of water. The exact quantity of water cannot bo given, but experience will soon enable the cook to determine when the paste is sufficiently stiff. It should be mixed in gradually with a knife, and should form a clear smooth paste, being worked lightly with the hands, until it ceases to adhere to them or to the board. Let it remain on the slab for two minutes. Have ready prepared threequarters of a pound of butter, freed from salt and moisture. Flatten the paste till it is an inch thick, lay the butter in the centre, and fold over the four sides of the paste, so as to form a square, and completely hide the butter. Leave this to cool for two or three minutes, then dredge the slab and the paste with flour, and roll the paste out till it is three feet in length, and be especially careful that the butter does not break through the floui-. {See what was said above on this subject.) Fold over, a third of the length from one end, and lay the other third upon it. This folding into three is called giving one turn. Let the paste rest for ten minutes, then give it two more turns, rest again, and let it have other two. This will be in all five turns, and these will generally be found sufficient. If, however, the pastry is to be used for vol-au-vents or patties, six or seven turns will be required. Gather the paste together and it is ready for use, and should bo baked as soon as possible. Handle it all the time as hghtly as possible, and remember to dredge a little flour over it, the board, and the rolling-pin every time it is rolled, to keep it from sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of two eggs with the flour and water in the first instance. If a very rich paste is required, a pound of butter may be put with a pound of flour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. Paste, Puff (an easy way of making). Dry and sift the flour, and prepare the butter as in the last recipe. Equal weights of butter and flour may be used, or three-quarters of a pound of butter to each pound of flour. Put a little salt into the flour, and make it into a paste by stirring gradually into it with a knife rather less than half a pint of water. KoU it out tiU it is an inch thick. Divide the butter into quarters: break one of these quarters into small pieces, and sprinkle these over the paste. Dredge a Uttle flour over it, and turn it over, then repeat the process, until all the butter is incorporated with the paste. Let the paste rest for ten minutes between each two rolls. Equal parts of lard and butter may be used for this paste, and if the yollc of an egg or the strained juice of half a lemon bo mixed with the water in the first instance, the paste will be lighter. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. Paste, Rich Cream, for Tarts. Dry and sift a pound of flour, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of crushed loaf sugar. Rub into it a quarter of a pound of sweet butter, and mix gradually with it sufficient cream to make it into a smooth paste. If cream cannot be had, the yolks of two eggs may be beaten up with a little milk, and substituted for it. Roll the paste out two or tlii-ee times, and use as quickly as possible. Probable cost, it" made with cream, is. 6d. per pound. Paste, Scraps of, How to use. If any scraps or shreds of paste are loft after making pies or tarts, gather thum into one lump, and roll this out until it is as thin as possible. Stamp it into fancy shajjcs, piick these hghtly with a fork, place them on a baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven until they are firm, without being browned. Sift powdered sugar over them, and serve ijrcttily arranged round a dish of stewed fruit. Time, about eight minutes to bake. Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies. Put a pound of dried and sifted flour into a bowl, and mix with it haK a tea-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Rub half a pound of butter, or butter and lard, into the flour, and make it into a paste by stirring in rather more than a quarter of a pint of water or milk : the yolks of two eggs may be added or not. Roll the paste out, give it two or three turns, and bake as soon as possible. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies (another way). Mix a small tea-sjwonful of salt with a pound of diied flour. Rub in four ounces of butter and four ounces of lard or good beef dripping. Add a tea-spoonful of bakingpowder, and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Make the whole into a stifi: paste hy stirring in a little water, roll it out two or three times, and it is ready for use. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 9d. Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies (another way). To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces. of fresh butter, the yolks of two beaten eggs, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix up together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. Tliis crust is frequently iced. Paste, Suet, for Boiled Puddings. Chop very finely six ounces of beef suet, freed from skin and sinew, and whilst chopping it keep dredging a little flour over it. Mix with it one pound of flour, and add as much cold water as wiU make the mixture up into a firm smooth paste. RoU it out, and it is ready for use. If a richer crust be required, a larger proportion of suet may be used, but this is quite good enough for ordinary purposes. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Paste, Suet, for Boiled Puddings (another way). Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of flour, and a little salt; mix it %vith half a pint of milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour. Paste, Transparent, for Tarts, &c. Wash three-quarters of a pound of best salt butter in two or three waters, and press it well to free it from moisture. Put it in a saucepan over a gentle fire, until it ia melted without PAS ( 516 ) PAS being oiled, then set it aside, and when it is nearly cold, stir into it a well-beaten egg and a pound of dried and sifted flour. EoU it out till it is very thin, line the tartlet-tins with it quickly and lightly as possible, brush them over with water, sift powdered loaf sugar , upon them, and bake in a moderate oven for ' about ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Pastry. In making pastry, the first thing to be remembered is that every article used in its preparation should be scrupulously clean ; and in order to insure this it is best to have all the utensils washed and thoroughly di-ied directly after they are used, and dusted when they are again required. In addition to this there must be good materials, a well regulated oven, a cool room, and a cook who brings to her work a cool, light, quick hand, close attention, and a little experience. There are four principal kinds of pastrj : puff paste, or feuilletage ; short crust, for family use ; standing crust, for meat and fish pies ; and brioche paste, which is a sort of dough used for loaves, roUs, and buns. As cool hands are required, it is best to wash them in water as hot as can be borne a minute or two before making the pastr '. The heat of the oven should in most cases be moderate, and the door should be only opened when it is absolutely necessarj' during the process of baking. The best way of ascertaining if the oven is properly heated, is to bake a small piece of pastry in it before putting in the pie or tart. Standing crusts require a quicker oven than ordinary pastry-. In aU cases wetting the pastry much will make it tough. Pastry Cream, for Garnishing Tartlets and other Pastry. Rub together one ounce of flour and a weU-beaten egg. When quite smooth, add a small pinch of salt, one ounce of powdered and sifted sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir the mixture over the fire until it boils. Draw the saucepan to the side, cover closely, and let the contents simmer gently for a quarter of an hour ; then turn the mixture into a bowl, and add to it the yolks of two eggs and a table-spoonful of powdered ratafias, with any additional flavouring that may be Hked. Put a lump of butter the size of a small egg into a saucepan, place it on a gentle fire. As soon as it is Cghtly coloured stir it into the flavoured cream. When cold it is ready for use. Probable cost, 6d. Pastry, Glazing of. Glazed pastry is generally used for meat pies or raised pies. If it is wished to give a deep glaze to the pie, beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly, and when the pastry is almost done enough, take it out of the oven and brush it lightly over with the egg, then put it in again a minute or two to set. If a lighter glaze is required, brush the pie with the whole of the egg, to which a spoonful of milk may be added, or not. Time, five or six minutes to set the glaze. Probable cost, Id. The yolk of one egg will be enough to glaze three or four pies. Pastry, Good Plain. Mix a teaspoonful of salt with a pound of flour. Rub in a quarter of a pound of rather soft lard or dripping, until the ingredients are thoroughly blended, then add two tea-spoonfuls of bakingpowder. Draw the mixture to one side of the bowl, pour a little water into the vacant space, and with four fingers work the ingredients to a soft paste. Lift the pastry out in small quantities as it acquires the proper consistency. Roll it out till sufiiciently thick to spread another four ounces of lard upon it, dredge a little flour on it, give it one or two turns, and it is ready for use. This pastry requires a quick oven. Time, ten minutes to make. Probable cost, 6d. Pastry, Good Plain (another way). Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of flour. Rub in lightly six ounces of butter or lard, or half butter and half lard, and stir water in briskly with a fork. When the mixture is smooth and compact, roll it out two or three times, and it is ready for use. Time, ten minutes to make. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pastry, Iced. Iced pastry is generally used for fruit tarts and sweet dishes ; there are two or three ways of doing it. First beat the white of an egg to a firm froth When the pastry is almost done enough take it out of the oven, brush it over with the egg, cover it with powdered sugar, sprinkle a few drops of water upon it, and return it to the oven for a few minutes to harden, taking care that it does not colour. Or mix half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar with the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and two table-spoonfula of cold water ; keep stirring until the icing is used. When the pastry has been baked, and is nearly cold, brush it over with the icing, and put it into a cool oven to harden. Or moisten the pastry with cold water before baking it, and press a thick coating of powdered sugar lightly upon it. Pastry, Plaits of (see Plaits of Pastry). Pastry Powder, or Baking Powder. Mix thoroughly two ounces of tartaric acid and two ounces of carbonate of soda with eight ounces of ground rice. RoU the mixture with the rolling-pin to free it from lumps, and keep it in a closely-stoppered wide-mouthed bottle untU wanted. When making common pastry, put a tea-spoonful of the powder with every pound of flour, and in making cakes allow a heaped tea-spoonful to every pound of material. This powder will make the pastry lighter, and renders it also more digestible. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Pastry Ramakins. RoU out evenly and thinly a quarter of a pound of good puff paste. Sprinkle over it a little finely-grated Parmesan, fold, roll it again, and sprinkle a little more cheese upon it ; then roll it out once more, stamp it into any fancy shapes, and brush over with yolk of egg. Put the ramakins on a buttered baking-tin, and bake them in a brisk oven. Serve as hot as possible. These ramakins should be served with cheese. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient for three or four persons. PAS (517 ) PAT Pastry Sandwiches. Roll out some good puit' paste till it is as thin as a wafer, and cut it into two pieces the same size and shape. Lay one of these on a buttered haking-tin, and spread over it lightly some fine fruit jelly. Place the other piece of pastry on the top, press it lightly with the fingers, mark it in squares where it is afterwards to be cut, and bake it in a moderate oven. Sift powdered sugar over the sandwiches before serving them, and aiTange them on a neatly-folded napkin, or cut them when cold into narrow strips, pile them in a circle on a dish, and pour whipped cream into the middle of them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, without the cream, 8d. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of paste will make a nice supper dish. Pastry Sandwiches (another way). RoU out two squares, one of almond paste and the other of puif paste, to the same size and thickness. Lay the puff paste upon the almond paste, press them lightly with the fingers, and cut them out together into shapes. Brush beaten egg over them, sprinkle powdered sugar upon them, and bake them in a moderate oven. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2d. each. Pasty, Forcemeat of {see Forcemeat of Pasty). Pasty of Fresh or Preserved Fruit. A pasty is distinguished from a pie or a tart, because it has pastry both under ajid above the fruit. It may be baked either with or without a plate. When no dish is used, roll the pastry out thin, and stamp it into a small round shape, spread the jam, or slice the fruit, xipon half the round, and turn the other haK over it. Moisten the edges with a little water, press them securely together, and bake the pasties in a moderate oven. Sprinkle powdered sugar over before serving. Time to bake, according to size. A pasty made of fresh fruit will require baking a little longer than one made of jam. Pasty, Potato {see Potato Pasty, Modem). Pate Brisee {see Crust, Pate Brisee). Pate de Gibier, or Game Pat6, Superlative. Bone four partridges, sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, and seasoning spice, allowing one ounce of spice to two pounds of meat. Cut up a hare into convenient-sized pieces, and season it like the partridges. Put inside each of the partridges a good-sized truffle and a portion of forcemeat, prepared as follows : Mince finely and separately, and then mix thoroughly, one pound of calf's hver, two pounds of lean meat (either pork or veal), half a ponnd of ham, and three pounds of fat bacon ; season this mixture with four ounces of powdered spice, pound it in a mortar, and afterwards mix with it a pound and a half of truffles. [Make some pastry, and mould it to the proper shape, according to the directions already given {see Paste for Raised Pies) ; cover the bottom of the pie with a layer of slices of fat bacon, place upon this half the hare and half the forcemeat, then put in the partridges, two with their breasts upwards and two with their breasts downwards, place the remainder of the hare and the forcemeat upon them, and cover the whole with a good slice of bacon fat and two bay-leaves. Put the lid on the pie, ornament it prettily, and bake it in a good oven for four hours or more. When it has been drawn from the oven, and is almost cold, pour into it, thi-ough a hole made in the centre of the lid, a quarter of a pint of dissolved gravy -jelly, which has been made by stewing the bones in water and mixing the stock with a little isinglass or gelatine. Probable cost, varying with the price of the game. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Pat6 of Fish. Boil and mash smoothly, with an ounce of butter and a spoonful of milk or cream to each pound, as many potatoes as will make a border about three inches high within the rim of the dish which it is intended to use ; three pounds of potatoes will be sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Raise this border, ornament it in any fanciful way, then brush it over with beaten egg, and put it in a hot oven until it is lightly browned. Have ready some hot crab, or some fish stewed in sauce, and when the potatoes are coloured put in the preparation, and serve very hot. To prepare the fish Take two pounds of cold boiled fish, which has been picked carefully from the bones and broken into small pieces, warm these in a pint of good white sauce, nicely flavoured and seasoned; stir it gently over the fire until the fish is hot, then turn the whole into the hoUow in the centre of the potatoes. If no stock is at hand, the white sauce may be made as follows : Simmer the bones of the fish, with a handful of parsley, an onion, stuck with one clove, haK a blade of mace, and a pint of water, until the liquid is reduced one-half ; strain it, and mix with it four table- spoonfuls of thick cream, season with salt and cayenne, and thicken with a little flour and butter. It is then ready for the fish. To prepare the crab Pick the meat from the shell, mix with it the eighth of its bulk in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and season with salt, cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture in a mortar, moisten with a little gravy, which has been thickened with flour and butter, add a table-spoonful of shcrrj', and stir the preparation over the fire until it is quite hot ; squeeze the juice of a small lemon over it, and it is ready for use. Time to warm the fish in the sauce, iintil it is qmte hot, without boiling. Probable cost, according to the nature of the fish. Sufficient for five or six persons. P te of Foies Gras. These pasties, so highly esteemed by epicures, are made at Straaburg, and thence exported to various parts. They are prepared from the livers of geese, which have been tied down for three or four weeks to prevent them moving, and forcibly compelled to swallow, at intervals, a certain amount of fattening food. When they have become so fat that they would die in a short time, they are killed, and their livers, which have become very rich, fat, and pale during the process, are used for the above PAT (518) PAT purpose. These pates are very expensive. A good imitation of them may be made without subjecting the unfortunate geese to the cruelties described by following the directions here given: Take the livers from three fine fat geese, such as are ordinarily brought to market, and in drawing the birds be careful not to break the gall-bag, as the contents would impart a bitter taste to the livers. Carefully remove any yellow spots there may be upon them, and lay the livers in milk for six or eight houi'S to whiten; cut them in halves, and put three halves aside for forcemeat. Soak, wfish, and scrub, and peel three-quarters of a pound of truffles, carefully preserving the cuttings. Slice a third of them into narrow strips, like lardoons, and stick them into the remainder of the livers three-quarters of an inch apart ; sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, and spice, and put them in a cool place until the forcemeat is made. Mince finely, first separately and afterwards together, a pound of fresh bacon, a third of the truffles, the halves of the livers that were put away for the purpose, two shallots, and eight or ten button mushrooms ; season the mixture with plenty of popper and salt, two or three grates of nutmeg, and half a salt-spoonful of powdered marjoram, and keep chopping until it is quite smooth. Make the jjaste according to the directions given in Paste for Raised Pies {see Paste for Raised Pies). Cover the bottom of the pie with thin rashers of ham, fat and lean together ; spread evenly on these one-half of the forcemeat, then put in the three livers, with the slices of truffle stuck in them, and afterwards the remainder of the forcemeat. Intersperse amongst the contents of the pie the remaining quarter of a pound of truffles, and cover the whole with two or three more shoes of ham or bacon. Put the cover on the pie, ornament as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten egg, make a hole in the centre for the steam to escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, two hours or more. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pate of Foies Gras, Mock {sse Calf's Liver). Pate of Macaroni. Put six ounces of the best macaroni into a saucepan, with a moderate-sized onion and three pints of boiling water, seasoned with half a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes ; drain it well, put it back into the s;iucepan, with half a pint of broth, and let it simmer again until the onion is absorbed and the macaroni tender, but unbroken. Place a layer at the bottom of a deep pie-dish, sprinkle over it a dessert-spoonful of grated Parmesan, and put little pieces of butter here and there upon it ; cover it with beef-steak which has been seasoned rather highly, stewed until tender in good brown gravy, and then cut into small thin pieces. A poimd of beef-steak will be sufficient for this quantity of macaroni. If preferred, fricasseed chicken, minced veal, sweetbread cut into dice, or mushrooms, may be substituted for the beef, but they must all be stewed in rich gmvy before they are put with the macaroni. Fill up the dish with alternate layers of macaroni and meat, and let the uppermost layer be ? composed of macaroni ; sprinkle an ounce of Parmesan over the top, and pour over it half an ounce of clarified butter, then put the disli into a Dutch oven, before a clear fire, or into the oven, and when the cheese is dissolved the pate is ready for serving. Time to bake, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 2s., if made with steak. Sufficient for four or five persons. Patience. Patience is the name of a plant which closely resembles spinach, and which is easily cultivated and very productive, though it has of late years fallen into comparative disuse. As it is particularly mild in flavour, the addition to it, at the time of cooking, of a small proportion of son-el, or of true spinach, will be found a gieat improvement. It is prepared as follows : Tear the mid-rib out of each leaf, leaving only the green part. Wash the leaves in two or three waters to free them from grit, put them into a very large saucepan, with half a pint of water, or j ust sufficient to keep them from burning, press them down well v dth a wooden spoon, and let them boil until they are perfectly tender, then drain them thoroughly, and mash them well, seasoning them with pepper and salt. Put them into a clean saucepan, with a little butter, and stir the prepai-ation over the fire until it is quite hot. Put it on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. Time to boil, ten minutes. Probable cost uncertain, patience being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, a pailful for three or foui- persons. Patissiere, Cream {see Cream Patissiere). Patties. Recipes for making the following patties will be found under their respective iaeadings: Beef M.4CAK0N1 Cheese Makuow Chicken Meat Dresben Mince for Eel Mutton Fish Oysters Game Oysters with Ham and Chicken Mushrooms Ham and Eggs Shrimps Jam Sweet Lemon Turkey Lobster Veal. Patties, Fried. Prepare some good puff paste, and roll it out to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, stamp it with a pastrycutter into rounds an inch and three-quarters in diameter, place a tea-spoonful of minced meat between two of these, moisten the edges, pinch them securely, and fry them in plenty of fat until they are crisped and Hghtly browned. They should be placed in a wire drainer, plunged into the fat when it is boiling, and well di-ained from it before they are served. The following is one amongst many of the preparations which may be put into the patties : Mince finely six ounces of cold dressed veal, and twelve ounces of boiled ham; add an egg, boiled hard and chopped small, and season the mixture with a little pepper, salt, powdered mace, and grated lemon-rind ; PAT (519) PEA moisten it with a table-spoonful of thick cream and one of good gravy. It will then be ready for use. Time to fry the patties, twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, '2d. each. A dozen are required for a dish. Patties, Fried Bread. Cut three or four slices, an inch and a half thick, from a stale quartern loaf. That called by bakers a sandwich loaf answers excellently for the purpose. Cut the slices into rounds an inch and threequarters in diameter, and make a tolerably deep incision at one end, a quarter of an inch from the edge, to mark the lid and the part which is afterwards to be scooped out for the admission of the meat. Fry the bread in plenty of boiling fat or dripping until it is Ughtly browned all over, drain it from the fat, talce off the top, and remove the crumb from the middle, and put in its place the prepared meat. Serve on a neatlyfolded napkin. Fry until the patties are equally and hghtly browned all over. Time to fry, about twelve minutes. Probable cost of cases, Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Patties, Gravy for {soe Gravy for Patties) . Patties, Monks'. Make some good pulf paste, and line as many patty-moulds as are required, according to the directions already given. Pare a large truffle, arid mince it very finely; mix with it the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs cut into dice, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and as much powdered mace as would cover a threepenny-piece. Moisten the mixtui-e with a table-spoonful of thick cream. Put a small portion into each patty, place the cover on the top, press the edges securely, and pinch them with a pincers. Bake in a tolerably brisk oven. If preferred, half a dozen button mushrooms, stewed in butter, and afterwards chopped small, may be used instead of the truffle. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. each. This quantity is sufficient for three or four patties. Patties, Preparation of. Patties may eitner be baked in patty- pans or without them. They are usually made with puif paste, and filled with savoury ingredients of various kinds. They should be baked in a brisk oven. If made in patty-pans, lightly grease the pans. Make the pastry according to the directions given for puff paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Linesthe moulds with this, fill them with flour, or place a crust of bread in the middle of them, put on the cover, trim the pastry evenly with the moulds, moisten the edges, press them together, and mark them with the prongs of a fork, or with scissors. Bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, raise the covers, take out the crusts, and return the patties to the oven for a minute or two to dry. Before serving, put the proper meat into the place where the bread has been. WTien made without moulds, roll out the paste as before, and cut it into an equal number of rounds, an inch and threequarters in diameter. Place half of these on a buttered baking-tin, moisten the edges, place a tea-spoonful of the proper forcemeat in the centre of each, and cover it with another of the rounds, press the edges securely, brush them over with beaten egg, and bake in a brisk oven. Patties, whether served hot or cold, should be arranged on a folded napkin. Time to bake, twelve to fifteen minutes. Patty-pans {see illustration accompanying the article on Almond Puffs). Peach. The peach is amongst the most delicious and most highly-esteemed of our fruits. It differs from the nectarine in being covered with a soft down. This fruit, both when fresh and when preserved, is excellent for the table. The young loaves and the kernels possess an Jigreeable flavour, and may bo used in cookery for flavouring purposes. When a peach is of superior quality and in good condition the skin is thin, and ver)' lightly covered with down, the stone small, the pulp tii-m though full of a delicious juice, and the colour deep and bright on one side {sec also Nectarine and Peach). Peach. Cakes (a pretty dish for a Juvenile Party). Divide carefully the yolks from the whites of four eggs ; beat the yolks thoroughly, and mix with them six ounces of finelypowdered and sifted loaf sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a few drops of almond fiavouring. Beat these ingi-edients thoroughly , for a quarter of an hour, then dredge in gradually six ounces of fine flour, and afterwards the whites of the eggs, which have been whisked to a solid froth. Beat the mixture five minutes longer, then drop it, in small rounds of uniform size, either upon a buttered and floured bakingtin or upon a sheet of thick cartridge paper ; bake in a brisk oven until they are lightly browned. The cakes must be carefully watched or they will be too highly coloured. When they are sufficiently baked, spread a little peach jam upon the under parts, and stick the cakes together in two, so that they will resemble as nearly as possible a peach in size and sliape. Cover them over very thinly with a little white icing, made by beating the whites of two eggs to a firm froth, and then mixing with them half a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar and a few diops of lemon- juice, the whisking being continued until the liquid looks thick, smooth, and white. Let the icing diy, and, if liked, brush over one side of the Cakes with a little water, coloured with cochineal, to make them look more like peaches. Serve the cakes neatly ari-anged on a glass dish, with whipped cream in the centre. Time to bake, eight to twelve minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per pound. Peach Cream lee. Di -ide twelve ripe peaches into halves, blanch the kernels, and put them, with the fruit, into a stcwpan, with a syrup, made by boiling six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Stir the contents of the saucepan over the fire until the fruit is reduced to pulp, then press it through a hair sieve into a basin. Add three-quarters of an oimce of gelatine, dissolved in haU" a pint of water, a pint of whipped cream, and three or four di-ops of prepared cochineal. Put the cream into an ice-mould that has a cover, and when it begins to thicken PEA ( 520 ) PEA stir it well. When it is quite thick put on the cover, and spread some butter over the opening, so that no water may get into it. Let the ice and saltpetre he at least three inches thick around the mould. When quite firm the peach ice is ready for serving. Time to freeze, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per pint, with peaches 2d. each. Sufficient for nearly three pints of ice. Peach Cream Ice (another way). Boil a dozen ripe peaches in syrup, and rub them through a sieve, as directed in the last recipe. Mix with the pulp a custard, made of half a pint of milk, the yolks of six eggs, and three ounces of sugar. Add two or three drops of cochineal to impart a pink tinge to the preparation, and freeze as directed in the preceding recipe. Time, three or four hours to freeze. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pint, with peaches 2d. each. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Peach Fritters. Make a smooth batter as follows : Mix half a pound of flour and a small pinch of salt with two table-spoonfuls of oil, or one ounce of dissolved butter, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Add very gradually half a pint of tepid water, and beat the mixture with the back of a wooden spoon until it is smooth and thick. Put it aside for an hour or two, and twenty minutes before it is used add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Skin, halve, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, dip them into the batter, and fry in boiling fat until they are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain them well, and serve piled on a dish, with a little whipped cream round them. If preferred, the cream may be omitted, and the fritters S3rved on a napkin, with powdered sugar strewn thickly over them. Time to fry the fritters, eight or ten minutes ; to drain them, five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peach Jam or Marmalade. Take the peaches when quite ripe ; skin, stone, and divide them into quarters, put these into a preserving-pan, and stir the ftruit over the fire until it is quite soft. Rub the pulp through a coarse sieve, beat it well until no lumps remain, weigh it, and mix with it an equal weight of powdered loaf sugar and a fourth part of the kernels, blanched and bruised. Boil the mixture for a quarter of an hour, stirring and skimming constantly. Pour the jam into jars, cover these in the usual way, and store in a cool, dry place. Time, about half an hour to reduce the peaches to pulp ; a quarter of an hour to boil them with the sugar. Probable cost, uncertain. Peach Jelly. Peel, divide, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, and boil them and the bruised kernels for a quarter of an hour, in a thin syrup, made of ten ounces of sugar and half a pint of water. Flavour the syrup with the grated rind and strained juice of four lemons, strain it through a jelly-bag, and add to it an ounce of dissolved isinglass or gelatine. Pour it into a mould, which should be set upon ice imtil the jelly is sufficiently stiff to turn out. The fruit from which this jelly is made may be served as a compote, with a little red currant- juice added to the syrup. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the fruit. Probable cost, 2s. a pint. Sufficient for a quart mould. Peach Water Ice. Pare, stone, and quarter half a dozen ripe peaches. Put them in a syrup, made by boiling a pound of loaf sugar, half a pint of water, the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and one peach kernel, for five minutes. Let the peaches simmer until they are quite soft. Press them through a fine hair sieve, and add to the liquid the strained juice of two small fresh lemons and two or three drops of cochineal. Freeze in the usual way. Time to boil the peaches, about ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d., with peaches at 2d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peaches, Bottled. Pare, halve, and stone the peaches. Place the halves in perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cover them entirely with a thick syrup, made by boiling a pound of loaf sugar in three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Cork the bottles, and tie them down. Wrap a wisp of hay round them to prevent their knocking against each other, and place them side by side in a deep stewpan, with cold water up to their necks. Let the peaches boil gently for a quarter of an hour after the water has reached the boiling point, then lift the saucepan from the fixe, and do not remove the bottles until the water is almost cold. Seal the corks, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Brandied. Stew some very fine, ripe, well-flavoured peaches, in a syrup of seven ounces of sugar to half a pint of water, turning them often. When tender, put them, with the syrup, into new jars or widemouthed glass bottles, leaving space on the top for brandy, which should be poured in when the fruit is quite cold. A few peach or apricot kernels may be blanched and added before the bottles are corked. Average cost of peaches, 2s. per dozen. Peaches, Compote of. Divide six or eight ripe peaches into halves. Make a syrup, by boiling six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water for eight minutes. Put in the fruit, and let it simmer gently for five minutes. Drain the peaches from the syrup, take off their skins, and put them into a compote dish. Add to the s3Tup a dessert-spoonful of lemonjuice, or, if procurable, two table-spoonfuls of red currant- juice. When lemon- juice is used, two or three drops of cochineal should also be added, to colour the syrup slightly. Let it boil three or four minutes longer, then pour it over the peaches. Blanch three or four of the kernels, split them in four, and place a quarter here and there upon the fi-uit. Serve either hot or cold. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peaches, Compote of (another way). Boil together for ten minutes half a pint of water and five ounces of sugar. Let the sugar PEA ( m ) PEA be of the best. Put half a dozen fine ripe peaches into the syrup. Take off the skins, and remove the stones if their absence is desired. Simmer very gently for about twenty minutes, but not so long if the fruit be divided to take out the stones. Put the fruit on a dish ; but reduce the syrup by fast boiling, and boil a few of the kernels, blanched, with it. Serve either hot or cold. Peaches, Compote of (another way). Pare, halve, and stone half a dozen ripe peaches, and simmer until they are soft enough to be pierced by a needle, in a syrup, made by boiling a quarter of a pound of sugar in half a pint of water for a quarter of an hour. When done enough, put them into a dish, and pour half the syrup over them. Throw into the other half of the syrup two poimds of ripe peaches, which have been pared, cored, and sliced ; add four ounces of sugar and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, and simmer the fruit, stirring it constantly, until it is reduced to a firm, smooth, dry pulp. Spread half of this in a smooth layer at the bottom of a glass dish, pile the stewed peaches in the centre, fill the spaces between them with the remainder of the marmalade ; then reduce the half of the syrup which was first taken out until it is quite thick, and pour it upon the fruit. Garnish the dish vith macaroons, blanch and slice the kernels, and strew them equally over the surface. Time to prepare, one hour or more. Probable cost, 3s. or 43. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peaches, Plane of; or Peaches in a Raised. Crust. Make three-quarters of a pound of good short crust, and roll it out until it is half an inch thick. Butter well the inside of a mould, and line it with the crust, pressing the crust so that it may take the form of the mould. Pinch the part that rises above the mould with the pincers, fill the case with flour, and bake in a moderate oven. When the crust is firm, remove the flour, carefully take the case out of the mould, and put it into the oven a few minutes longer to dry. Divide a dozen peaches into halves, boU them until tender in a syrup made of six ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water. When they are sufficiently cooked, lift them out one by one, and put them into the case. Boil the sjTup a few minutes longer, add a table-spoonful of lemon- juice, colour with a little cochineal, let it cool, then pour it over the fruit. A few of the kernels, blanched and quartered, may be introduced, if liked. Time, about one hour to bake the flanc; twenty minutes to prepare the fruit. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Peaches, Pickled. Take a dozen sound peaches which have been gathered before they are fully ripe. Rub them well with a soft cloth, and put them into a brine made by boiling a pound of salt in three quarts of water for one minute. Skim the liquid carefully, pour it, when cold, over the peaches, put a thin board on the top to keep them under the water, and let them remain for three days. At the end of that time lift them out carefully, put them into a large earthenware jar, and pour over them a 34 pickle prepared as follows : Boil half a gallon of vinegar with a quarter of a pound of bruised ginger, a dessert-spoonful of salt, three large blades of mace, one pound of mustard, a quarter of a pound of whole pepper, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne tied in mushn. Skim the liquid carefully, and pour it, when boiling, upon the peaches. Cover the jar with a bladder, and store in a cool dry place. The pickled peaches will be ready for use in nine or ten weeks. If it is wished to pickle the peaches as an imitation of pickled mangoes, take each peach singly, after it has been drained from the brine, and cut out of the stalk end a round piece, an inch in diameter, draw out the stone, and put in its place a little fresh mustard-seed which has been washed in vinegar and flavoured with a finely-minced shallot and a pinch of cayenne. Put the piece back again, and secure it in its place with strong thread ; then proceed according to the directions given above. Time, ten minutes to boU the vinegar with the spices. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Pickled (another way). Take the peaches when they are sound, but not overripe. Rub the do-\vn from them, and stick five cloves into each peach. Place them side by side in a deep jar, and pour over them as much hot pickle as will cover them, made by boiling one pound of moist sugar with each quart of vinegar. Set the jar aside for ten days, then drain off the vinegar; let it boil once more, skim it well, and again pour it upon the peaches. Let them get quite cold, then lift them carefully into glass or earthenware jars, cover them with the vinegar, and tie down securely. Store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved in Brandy. Gather the peaches when they are perfectly sound, but fully ripe. Make as much syrup as will cover them, boiling ten ounces of loaf sugar with every three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Pare the peaches, put them into the sjTup, and simmer gently until they are so tender that a needle can be easily passed through them. As they reach this condition, lift them out one by one with a skimmer, and put them carefully into the jar intended for them, which they must only half fill. Pour the syrup over them, and within two inches of the top, add a few of the blanched kernels, and when the syrup is cold fill up the jar with brandy. Cork closely, and cover the corks wth bladder. It is weU to examine the jars occasionally, and as the fruit absorbs the brandy to add more. If it should happen that the peaches are not quite ripe, pour boiling water over them, and keep them near the fire until the skin can be easily drawn off. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved in Brandy (another way). Put the peaches info cold water, and simmer them very gently until they begin to soften. Lift them out carefully one by one, drain them, and when they are cold put them into glass jars. Crush a pound and a half of white sugar-candy to powder. Dissolve it in a PEA (522) PEA pint of brandy, and fill up tlie glasses witli the syrup. Cork and seal the jars, and store in a cool dry place. Examine the jars occasionally, and as the fruit absorbs the brandy add a little more. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved Whole. This preserve is best made in the early part of October. Gather the peaches before they are fully ripe, wipe the down from them, put them into a deep pan, pour boiling water over them, cover them over, and let them remain near the fire, though not upon it, for an hour ; then take out the peaches, put them in a bowl of cold water, and in a quarter of an hour take ofE the skins, push out the stones, and weigh the fruit. Take an equal weight of loaf sugar, dip each lump separately into water, put it into a preser dng-pan, and then boil the moistened sugar gently until you have a clear syrup. Put the peaches in carefully with the blanched kernels, let them simmer for six minutes, then lift them out with a skimmer, put them into a deep dish, and pour the boiling syrup over them. The next day drain the sjTup from them, let it boil for four minutes, and jiour it again over the fruit : repeat this process every day for a week. On the eighth day boil up the syrup as usual, and put the peaches into it. Let them boil quickly for eight or ten minutes, but do not allow them to break ; lift them out carefully one by one, put them into jars, place an equal portion of the kernels in each jar, and fill it up with the syrup. In two or three hours tie down securely with paper brushed over with the white of an egg, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved Whole (another way) . Take peaches which are perfectly sound ajid not overripe, wipe off the bloom, and put them into a deep jar ; pour boiling water over them, throw a cloth over the bowl to keep in the steam, and let them remain until the water is nearly cold. Lift them carefully out of the water, drain, and peel them. Place a single layer of the fruit at the bottom of a deep earthenware jar, cover the peaches thickly with finely-powdered and sifted sugar, and place another layer of sugar and fruit upon the top of the last; repeat until the jar is full, being careful that the sugar is strewn very thickly over the fruit, and that the topmost layer is composed of sugar. Close the jar immediately, and fasten it securely, either with a large cork and resin, or with bladder, and keep the fruit in a dark, cool, dry place. Time, an hour to soak the peaches. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Vol-au-vent of. Take as much fine puff paste as is required for the size of a vol-au-vent. It should be the exact size and shape of the inside of the dish on which it is intended to be served. Koll it out to the thickness of an inch and a quarter, and stamp the cover on the top according to the directions given for a vol-au-vent. {See Vol-au-vent.) Bake in a brisk oven. If the pastry has been properly made it will rise in the oven until it is about five inches in height ; when it has done so, and is lightly coloured, take it out, remove the lid, and scoop out the inside. Have as many peaches as will be required to fill the empty space, already cut into halves and stewed in syrup until they are tender, but unbroken. Put them into the volau-vent, boil the syrup quickly for a few minutes until it is very thick, poirr it upon the peaches, and serve the vol-au-vent on a neatlyfolded napkin. Time to bake a moderate-sized vol-au-vent say one made with three-quarters of a pound of puff' paste about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peacock. This beautiful and majestic bird has been introduced on the table both by the ancients and the moderns, but chiefly as a showy and ornamental dish, the bird being preserved in some of its handsome plumage. The flesh is coarse and ill-coloui-ed. Peafowl. The peafowl is generally to be had during the first six months of the year, and when young and well kept it tastes not unlike pheasant. It requires to be larded on the breast and legs, as the flesh is rather dry. When the cock is served, some of the feathers of the tail should be preserved and stuck into the bird before it is sent to table, and when this is neatly done it presents an excellent appearance. The hen is, however, much more frequently served than the cock. Peafowl, Larded and Roasted. Choose a young bird, lard it closely over the breast and legs, fill it with a good veal forcemeat but the forcemeat may be omitted truss it firmly, and roast before a clear fire for an hour or an hour and a half, according to the size of the bird. When done enough, take off the buttered paper which was round the head {see Peafowl, Trussed), trim the feathers, glaze the larding, and serve the bird on a hot dish, with a little clear brown gravy under it. Garnish the dish with watercresses, and send bread-sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Peafowl, Trussed. Peafowls should be trussed in the same way as pheasants, excepting that the head should be left attached to the skin of the breast unplucked. It should be carefully covered with buttered paper, and fastened under the wing. Wlien the bird is sufficiently cooked, and before it is dished, the paper should be removed and the plumage trimmed. Pear. The pear is very wholesome when ripe, but is not so when green. It is then, however, fit for stewing. The best pears for baking purposes are rather austere than sweet ; by cooking, part of the acid is changed into sugar. Pears may be preserved in the same way as apples ; they are also pared and dried in an oven, by which means they wiU keep for years. This method of preservation is much followed in France. Several hundred kinds of pears are cultivated in the orchards of Europe. PEA ( 623 ) PEA Pear, Ancliovy. This is a West Indian fruit, not unlike the mango in taste. When in a green state it is sometimes pickled. Pear and Plum Jam without Sugar {see Plum and Pear Jam). Pear, Avocado, or Alligator. A fruit, ahout the size of an apple, met with in the West Indies. It takes rank amongst the most delicious productions of the vegetable kingdom. It consists of a kernel enclosed in a soft rind ; the yellow pulp having the firmness and delicate flavour of the peach. Pear, Charlotte. Peel and core a dozen Bon Chretien pears, cut them into quarters, dip them into finely-powdered sugar, and shake them over the fire in a little clarified butter until they are tender ; then drain them well. Cut three or four slices of crumb of bread the third of an inch thick. Line a plain round mould with these, iirst cutting out a small roiind for the bottom, and then cutting the rest into fingers, which must be placed round the mould overlapping each other. Dip the bread into clarified butter before putting it into the mould. Fill the mould with the cooked pears, cover the top with slices of bread dipped in butter, and place the dish in a brisk oven imtil the bread is lightly browned. If the oven be not sufficiently brisk the bread will not colour properly, nor will the charlotte preserve its form. Tiurn the charlotte out of the mould, and brush it over with apricot jam, or sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Time to bake, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Pear Jam.. Pare, core, and quarter six pounds of ripe mellow pears, put them into a jar, cover closely, and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling imtil the pears fall and are quite soft. Turn them into a preserving pan, and mix with them a quart of syrup, made in the proportion of a pound and a half of loaf sugar to each half a pint of water. Mi.K the fruit and the syrup thoroughly, and stir the jam over the fire for twenty minutes. Tiu-n it into jars, cover in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pear Klosse (a German dish). Pare, core, and mince finely half a dozen ripe pears. Mix with them half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of clarified butter, sugar to taste, four well-beaten eggs, and as much finely-gi-ated bread as will make the mixture stiff and smooth. Mould it into egg-shaped balls with a large spoon, drop these into boiling water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with sifted sugar and a little powdered cinnamon strewn over them. Send milk sauce to table with them. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pear Marm.alade. TVeigh, pare, halve, and core as many ripe mellow pears as it is desired to use. Put them into a preservingpan, barely cover them with cold water, and simmer gently until they are tender. Lift them out of the water, and boil the liquid for an hour with the skins and cores of the pears. Strain it, make a syrup of it by boiling a pound and a half of sugar and a quart of liquid for every two pounds of fruit, and let this syrup boil until it will stifl'en when a small quantity is poured upon a plate. Stir the pears into the syrup, and boil all together for a few minutes. Turn the marmalade into jars, cover in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Time, boil the pears untU tender ; one hoirr to stew the skins, &c. ; boil the syi'up until it jellies. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Pear Soup. Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into a stewpan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then press them through a coarse sieve, and return the puree to the saucepan, with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half a tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it wiU be ready for serving. Send small spongecakes to table with this dish. Time, about one hour and a haK to stew the pears. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pear Tart. If meUow pears are used they wiU not require to be stewed before the pastry is put over them, but if the ordinary baking pears are made use of they must be prepared as follows : Take six or eight large pears. Pare them thinly, core and quarter them, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two cloves, a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, and a quarter of a pint of water. Let them simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, then turn them into the dish prepared for them. When the fruit is cold, moisten the edge of the dish and line it with pastry, wet the band, put the cover on, press it down all roimd with the finger and thumb, trim the edge, and mark it with the back of a knife. Ornament the top by placing on it leaves or flowers stamped out with the pastry-cutter. Bake in a good oven. About ten minutes before the tart is done enough, draw it out, sprinkle over it white of egg mixed with a little cold water, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and put it back in the oven to finish baking. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pearlina Pudding, Baked. Rub a quarter of an ounce of fresh butter over the inside of a saucepan, and put into it a quart of milk, with any flavouring that may be liked. Let it boil, then sprinkle in gradually four table-spoonfuls of Brown and Poison's pearlina, and stir it over a gentle fire for ten minutes, or until it is thick. Pour it out, let it cool a few minutes, and then add a pinch of salt, half an ounce of butter, three ounces of moist sugar, three well-beaten eggs, and half an ounce of candied-peel finely minced. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven until the pudding is nicely browned. Send wine sauce to table with it. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. PEA (524) PEA Pearlina Pudding, Baked, without Eggs. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly. Pour into it a quart of milk, and stir in four tahle-spoonfuls of Brown and Poison's pearlina. Add half an ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and two or three drops of any flavouring that may be preferred. Put the pudding into a slow oven, and bake very gently until it is nicely browned. Serve with powdered sugar. Time, about two hours and a half to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pearlina Pudding, Boiled. Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with two square inches of thin lemon-rind, half an inch of stick cinnamon, three or four almonds blanched and bruised, or any other flavouring that may be preferred. Bring it slowly to a boU, then tprinkle in very gradually three table-spoonfuls of Brown and Poison's pearlina, and stir the mixture briskly over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Turn it into a bowl, and mix with it half an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of salt, three dessert-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and haH an ounce of candied peel sliced very finely, and a weU-beaten egg. Pour the pudding into a well-buttered mould which it will quite fill, tie a floured cloth securely over it, plunge the mould into a saucepan three-parts filled with boding water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Move it about during the first quarter of an hour to prevent the ingredients settling to the bottom. When the pudding is done enough, turn it on a hot dish, and send melted butter or sweet sauce to table in a tureen. Time, one hour to boil the pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pearlina Pudding, Cold, To Make Use of the Remains of a. Carefully remove the skin and brown parts from the pudding, and press the remainder into a plain basin. Place a weight upon it so that it may take the form of the mould, and when wanted turn it out on a glass dish, and put stewed fruit or jam round it. Time, a few minutes to prepare the pudding. Pears, Baked. Rub half a dozen large hard pears with a soft cloth. Put them on a buttered baking-tin into a slow oven, and let them bake gently for five or six hours. When tender they are done enough, and will be found excellent if eaten with sugar. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pears, Baked (another way). Pare vcr}' smoothly a dozen large baking pears. Cut them into halves, take out the cores, and put them side by side into a well-brightened blocktin sajicepan with a closely-fitting cover. Pour over them as much cold water as will cover them, add the thin rind of a small lemon, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, an inch of stick cinnamon, and fifteen grains of allspice. Put on the cover, place the dish in a gentle oven, and let it remain there until the pears are tender. A little white wine may be added, if liked. If a saucepan such as is described is used, no cochineal wiU be required for the syrup. Time to bake, six hours. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for eight or ten per Pears, Compote of. When ripe juicy pears are used for making compotes they should be stewed whole, but when hard baking pears only are to be had it is best to cut them into halves or quarters, reserving only one large piece to put in the centre. Peel the pears, and put them into the syrup. The proportion of sugar used will depend upon the quality of the pears. Put with them a few drops of prepared cochineal, and either a strip of lemon-rind, a quarter of a stick of vanilla, or a few cloves. Simmer very gently until they are quite tender without being broken, then drain them well, put them on a dish, boil the syrup quickly imtil it is thick : when it ia cold, and just before the compote is to be served, strain, and pour the sjTup over the fruit. The pears are to be boiled until tender. Probable cost, Is. 4d. for a dish. Sufficient for five or six persons. PEARS. 1. Louise Bowne. 2. Marie Louise. 3. Uvedale's St. Germain. Pears, Essence of Jargonelle. The article sold under this name is the acetate of the oxide of amyl, mixed with spirits of wine. It very closely resembles the natural fiavour of pears. Pears, Frosted or Iced. Take half a dozen large pears, which have been stewed whole in syrup. Dry them well, then cover them smoothly and evenly with a white icing made as follows : Beat the white of an egg to a firm froth, add a quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a few drops of cold water, and beat the mixture thoroughly until it forms a very thick smooth liquid. When the pears are covered, set them in a warm place, or in a cool oven, to stifllen the icing. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for a dessert-dish. Pears, Giblets with {see Giblets with Pears). Pears in Jelly (a pretty dish for a Juvenile Party). Peel six or eight large pears, cut PEA ( 525 ) PEA tiem into halves, take out the cores, and throw them as they are done into cold water to keep them from becoming discoloured. Put them into a saucepan with as much syrup as wLU cover them, and let them stew gently until they are tender, but unbroken. The quantity of sugar put into the syrup will depend upon the quality of the pears, as some arc naturally much sweeter than others. When sufficiently cooked, drain the pears from the syrup, brush them over with the beaten yolk of an egg, sprinkle powdered and sifted sugar thickly over them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Supposing there is a pint and a half of syrup, dissolve in it an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in as much cold water as will cover it for one hour. Let it boil quickly for five or six minutes, colour with two or three drops of cochineal, and strain it through a jelly-bag over the pears. Put the dish into a cool place, and when the jelly is quite stiff it is ready for serving. Time, about one hour to stew the pears. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pears, Jargonelle (s?e Jargonelle Pears). Pears, Jargonelle, Preserved. Oatherthe pearsbeforo they are soft, weigh them, and pare them as thinly as possible. As the fruit is hkely to keep longer if the seeds are removed, scoop these out from the end with a fruit-knife, or with a bodkin. Place the pears in a preserving pan, cover them with a thin syrup made with half a pound of sugar to each pint of water, and let them simmer gently until they are sufficiently tender to be pierced easily with a needle, but they must not be allowed to break. Turn them into a bowl, pour the syrup over them, and leave them to soak for two days. Drain off the sjTup, and add to it a further quantity of sugar, so that there will be the same weight of sugar that there was of fruit in the first instance, together with half an ounce of whole ginger and the juice and thinly -pared rind of a lemon to each quart of syrup. Boil for ten minutes, and skim carefully. Put in the peara.and let them simmer gently until they look clear. When they are done enough they may either be drained from the syrup, and dried in the sun or in a gentle oven, or they may be kept in the syrup, and dried or not as they are wanted. Probable cost of pears, Id. each. Pears, Meringue of. Pare, core, and halve a dozen pears, and stew them in sjTup until they are sufficiently tender to be pierced easily with a needle ; put them into a deep tartdish which they will almost fill, and boil the syrup quickly until it is so much reduced that, when poured over the pears, it will only half cover them. Whisk the whites of four eggs to a solid froth. Stir into them four table-spoonfuls of powdered and sifted sugar, and spread the mixture evenlj and smoothly over the fruit; put it at once into a moderate oven, and bake until the crust is lightly coloured and crisp even in the middle. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or six persons. Pears, Pickled. Put three quarts of good vinegar into a tin saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of salt, twelve onions, and two dozen large baking pears which have been well rubbed with a soft cloth, but not pared. Simmer gently until the pears are tender without being broken, then take them out, and when they are cold pare and core them, and divide each one into six or eight pieces. When the onions also are soft take them out, and rub them through a fine hail- sieve. Put into the vinegar a dessertspoonful of peppercorns, a small tea-spoonful of cloves, a small tea-spoonful of allspice, six blades of mace, two ounces of whole ginger, three dessert-spoonfuls of turmeric, two cloves of garlic ; if liked, a dessert-spoonful of mustard seed and a dessert-spoonful of coriander seed may also be added. Let these ingredients boU for ten minutes, then stir in the mashed onion, and boil ten minutes longer. Put the pears into jars, and pour the seasoned vinegar over them. Divide the spices equally amongst the jars, and place them at the top of the pears. Tie the jars down with bladder, and store in a cool dry place. Time, about one hour and a haK to stew the pears. Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for a gallon of pickle. Pears, Preserved. Gather the pears before they are quite ripe, pare, halve, core, and weigh them, and put them into a deep jar, allowing three pounds of sugar to every four pounds of pears, and just enough water to moisten the sugar and keep the fruit from burning. The strained juice and thinly-pared rind of a lemon an,d an inch of whole ginger may be put with every two pounds of pears. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the fruit steam gently for six or seven hours. Turn it into jars, fasten these down securely, and store in a cool dry place. Two or three drops of cochineal may be added to the pears after they are cooked to improve the appearance. It must not be expected that pears preserved as above will keep good more than three or four months. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pears, Preserved, Red. If when preserving pears it is wished to impart a deep pink tinge to the fruit and syrup, use a perfectly bright block-tin saucepan. If this is not convenient, add three or four drops of cochineal to the syrup, or a small proportion of red currant or red gooseberry -juice. Pears, Stewed. Pare, core, and halve eight or ten good-sized pears, leaving on the stalks or not, according to taste ; put them into a tinned saucepan, with six ounces of loaf sugar, six clcves, six whole allspice, three-quarters of a pint of water, and a glassful of port, and let them boil as gently as possible until they are quite soft without being broken. Lift them out, put them on a glass dish, and when the sjTup is cold strain it over them. A little Dcvonshh-e cream, or, failing this, a little custard, is a gr.eat improvement to this dish. Time to stew the pears, from two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pears Stewed in Butter. Take half a dozen large baking pears, pare and core without breaking them, and fill the cavity in each with a clove crushed to powder, a little moist PEA (526) PEA sugar, and a small lump of butter. Put them into a stowpan with the stalk ends uppermost, and pour over them three ounces of clarified butter ; cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew gently until they are quite soft without being broken, then lift them out carefully, fill the hollows with red currant jelly, and arrange the pears on a dish, with the narrow parts meeting in the centre. Pile half a dozen macaroons which have been soaked in sherry in the centre of the fruit, pour the syrup round it, and serve. Time to stew the pears, about one hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pears Stewed in Vinegar (for Dessert). Pare smoothly two pounds of small winter pears, cut them in halves, and take out the cores. Boil a pint of vinegar, twelve cloves, twelve ounces of sugar, and a stick of cinnamon for ten minutes. Put the pears into the syrup, and let them simmer very gently until they are sufliciently tender to be pierced easily -with a pin. Take them out carefully, drain them, and put them into jars. Boil the syrup quickly until it is quite thick, and when it is cold pour it over the fruit, which must be covered with it. Tie down the jars with bladder, and store in a cool dry place. At the end of a week look at the fruit, and if the syrup has turned their colour boil it over again. Time to stew the pears, until tender; the time will vary with the quality of the pears. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Pears, Stewed, To Colour. This may be done in several waj-s. Port wine and a few drops of liquid cochineal will impart a bright red colour. Or some fine white candied sugar dissolved in a wine-glassful of port wine may be added to a moderate-sized dish of pears. Or pears may be stewed in a block-tin vessel, which will give a fine red. Pears, The Pips of [see Apples and Pears, The Pips of). Pears, Wine of. A sort of wine in which pears were employed is thus described by Mr. Booth in his work on wine making. " In the North of France, having heated fiftyfive pounds of the juice of wild pears to 180 degrees, I added about a tenth of that weight of raisins, and bunged up the whole in a cask. In a short time the heat of the liquor had fallen to 77 degrees, when I drained out the raisins, bruised them, returned them into the must, and closed the cask, so as to allow the fermentation to take place. A fortnight after, the wine, or perry, was racked into stone cans, and, after standing three months in the cellar, it was reckoned by good judges equal to the best wine from grapes." Pears with Rice. Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in two or three waters, put it into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of sugar and a quarter of a stick of vanilla, and let it .simmer gently for an hour. _ Turn it upon a hot dish, and lay upon it four or five good baking pears which have been cored, halved, and stewed until quite tender with three pints of water, four ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a stick of vanilla. Boil the sjTup in which the pears were j stewed very quickly for a few minutes to I thicken it, and pour it over the rice. Serve either hot or cold. Time, one hour and a half or more to stew the pears. Probable cost, 9d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Peas. The pea has been cultivated as a culinary vegetable from a very early period. The Greeks prized it highly, and grew it extensively. It is uncertain when it was first cultivated in Britain. Long after its introduction it was rare, and in the time of Elizabeth we find it imported from Holland, most likely in a ripe state. Either as a horticultural or ac an agricultural product the pea is of great importance. In a green state the seeds are held to be one of our most esteemed vegetables, when boiled ; when ripe they are much used in forming a favourite and nutritious soup. Though a great many varieties of peas have been produced by cultivation, yet they may all be ranged under one or other of two divisions white, or yellow, and grey peas. Of the former the choicest kinds are grown in gardens to be eaten green, but vast quantities are also cultivated in the fields, and allowed to ripen for drying. Grey peas are coarse in flavour, and are used solely as food for horses and cattle. Peas are sown in the garden at diflterent periods so that they may be fit for gathering in succession. They are usually divided into earlij and late peas ; the former, which constitute one of the great luxuries of the beginning of summer, are often forced on hot-beds. The peas, however, which are best in quality are those which have been brought to maturity by the natural heat of summer. Peas, Asparagus Heads as {see Aspargugus Heads as Peas) . Peas "Brose." "In the West of Scotland, especially in Glasgow," says Dr. Andrew in the "Cyclopaedia of Domestic Medicine," &c., " ' peas brose,' as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a Uttle salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but is even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghom, late Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow University. The peas brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is a sweet nourishing article of diet, peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit, and for children." Peas, Chick. This is a small variety of pea, little known in Britain, but much cultivated in the South of Europe. The seeds are not softened by boiling. They are sometimes parched in a frying-pan in Egj t and Syria, where they are held to be a convenient food for travellers bound on long expeditions. In Italy and the South of France they are occasionally roasted, and made to do duty for coffee. Peas, Green. To have green peas in perfection, care should be taken to obtain them yoimg, freshly-gathered, and freshlysheUed. The condition of the peas may be kno vn from the appearance of the shells. When the peas are young the shells are green, PEA (527) PEA when newly-gathered they are crisp, when old they look yellow, and when plump the peas are fine and large. If peas are shelled some hours before they are cooked they lose greatly in flavour. Peas, Green (a French mode of cooking) . Peas are often served in France as a dish by themselves, and eaten with bread alone. They require, therefore, to be enriched with butter and flavoured with seasoning. They are prepared as follows: Put a quart of freshlygathered young green peas into a bowl vnth plenty of cold spring water and two ounces of butter. Work well with the fingers until the butter adheres to the peas, then pour off the water, and drain the peas in a colander. Put them into a stewpan with half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen small young onions, and a table- spoonful of pounded sugar. A sprig of parsley is frequently added, but it should be used very sparingly, as its strongflavour destroys the fresh taste of the peas. Put the lid on the saucepan, and let the peas stew gently over a slow fire for thirty minutes. Remove the onions and parsley, and add a table-spoonful of strong gravy and two ounces of fresh butter which has been kneaded to a smooth paste with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Shake the saucepan over the fire until the butter is melted and the peas properly thickened : taste them to ascertain if a little more salt and sugar are required. Serve the peas as quickly as possible, piled high on a hot dish. Probable cost, 8d. per peck, when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green (a French mode of cooking : another way). Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan. When it is dissolved without being the least coloured, throw in a quart of peas. Shake them over the fire for a minute or two, then pour over them as much boiling water or weak stock as will barely cover them, add haK a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the heart of a lettuce finely shred, three young onions, and a small sprig of parsley. Simmer gently until the peas are tender. Take the saucepan from the fire for a minute, and in order to thicken the sauce stir in the well-beaten yolks of thi-ee eggs. The peas must not boil up after the eggs are added. Serve the peas on a hot dish with the sauce poured over them. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of peas, 8d. per peck, when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green (a French mode of cooking : another way). Take two quarts of green peas, and put them in a panful of cold water with three oiuices of butter. Work the peas in the water, so that their surface may be equally smeared with the butter, that they may adhere together. Drain off the water, take out the peas by handfuls, and transfer them to a colander. Stew them over a moderate fire with some green onions and a bunch of parsley ; dust a little flour over them, and stir carefully ; next pour over the peas just enough boihng water to cover them. Boil fast till the water is evaporated, then put in a lump of sugar, moistened, that it maybe more quickly dissolved, and a little salt. Have ready mixed two ounces of butter with some flour ; stir it into the peas, and let it be equally distributed among them. Then serve. Peas, Green (a la Paysanne). Prepare the peas as in the preceding recipe. Take a handful of parsley, a few green onions, and a few cabbage and cos-lettuces, wash them, and break, instead of cutting them. Drain them from the water, and put them with the peas over a very slow fire. No other moisture than the butter will be required. Be careful, by stirring the contents of the stewpan repeatedly, that they do not bum. When done enough, add pepper and salt, and serve. Peas, Green, Boiled. Choose peas which are young and freshly-gathered. Do not shell them until just before they are to be boiled. To boil a quart of peas, put two quarts of water into a saucepan, and with it a quarter of an ounce of salt. Let it boil, and skim it well, then throw in the peas, and let them boil quickly without being covered until they are tender. As soon as this point is reached, take them at once off the fire, or they wiU quickly break, and their appearance be spoilt. Drain them, put them into a clean saucepan with three ounces of fresh butter, sprinkle half a tea-spoonful of salt upon them, and shake them over the fire until the butter is melted. Serve immediately. A bimch of mint is frequently thrown into the water with the peas ; but before doing this it is well to ascertain if the flavour is liked, as some persons have a strong objection to it. Instead of being shaken up with butter, green peas are sometimes served with a handful of finely-, chopped mint strewn over them in the tureen, pats of fresh butter being served separately in a cooler. Time to boil, young fresh peas, a quarter of an hour ; large old ones, twenty-five minutes or more. Probable cost of garden peas when in full season, 8d. per peck ; field peas, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Boiled (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). "Young green peas well dressed are one of the most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young; it is equally indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they are sheUed, for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness. If you wish to feast upon peas in perfection, you must have them gathered the same day they are dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled. Pass them through a riddle, i.e., a coarse sieve, which is made for the purpose of separating them. This precaution is necessary, for large and small peas cannot be boiled together, as the former wiU take more time than the latter. For a peck of peas, set on a saucepan with a gallon of water in it ; when it boils, put in your peas with a table-spoonful of salt; skim it well, keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size; the best way to judge of their being done enough, and indeed the only way to make sure of cooking them to and not beyond the point of perfection, or, as the pea-eaters say, of ' boiling PEA ( 528 ) PEA them to a bubble,' is to take them out with a spoon, and taste them. AVhen they are done enough, drain them on a hair sieve. If you Hke them buttered, put them into a pic-dish, divide some butter into small bits, and lay them on the peas ; put another dish over them, and turn them over and over ; this will melt the butter through thom ; but as aU people do not like buttered peas, you had better send them to table plain as they come out of the saucepan, with melted butter in a sauce tureen. It is usual to boil some mint with the peas ; but if you wish te gaimish the peas with mint, boil a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. A pock of young peas will not yield more than enough for a couple of hearty pea-eaters ; when the pods are full, it may serve for three. Never think of purchasing peas ready-shelled, for the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this recipe." Peas, Green, Bottled. Shell the peas, put them into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and shake them together so that they may lie in as little space as possible. Cork the bottles closely, and seal the corks. Bury the bottles in the driest part of the garden, and take them up .as they are wanted. They will keep good five ?or si.x months. Peas, Green, Bottled (another way). ?Choose peas which are large and fully grown, though not old. Put them into perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles, shake them down, cork securely, and cover the corks with bladder. Tie a wis]) of hay round the lower part of the bottles to prevent their knocking against each other in the pan, put them side by side in a large saucepan, and i our into it as much cold water as will reach to their necks. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it remain for two hours after the water has reached the boiling point, then take it off, but do not remove the bottles until the water is cold. Seal the corks, .and store in a cool dry place. Peas, Green, Old, How to Cook. When peas are old they should be shelled, and soaked in water for some time before being cooked. If of superior quality they will only require soaking about half an hour, but if not three or four hours will not be too much for them. An e.xcellent dish may be made with old peas, by soaking them as above directed, and then stewing with them a small piece of boef , or salt pork. The time required for cooking will of course depend upon the weight of tho meat. It is best, however, to use as much water only as will barely cover the peas. Serve the meat and vegetables on the same dish, and as hot as possible. Time, half an hour for the peas. Probable cost, 6d. per peck. Peas, Green, Preserved. Take the j)cas when they are fully grown, but not old. bhell thom, throw thom into boiling water, and let them bod for ten minutes, then drain well, spread them out on tins, and put them in a cool oven once or twice to harden. When done, put them into paper bags, tie up securely, and hang in a dry warm room until wanted. Before using them, soak them in water for a little whUe, and put an ounce of butter into the water in which they are boUed. Peas, Green, Preserved (other ways). Fill a tin box with them, pour in a little water which has been salted, put on the cover, which must be soldered, so that the box shall be herI mctically tight, and then boil the box. Or, dry the peas in a cool oven, and afterwards hang them up in paper bags. Or, gather the peas on a fine dry day, open the pods on a large clean cloth, and leave the peas for five or six hours exposed to the sun and air. Rub them gently in a rough towel till they are perfectly dry, bottle them as air-tight as possible, and store in a dry place. Peas, Green, Puree of. Throw the peas into as much boiling water as will cover them. Season with salt and sugar, and when they are quite soft drain in a colander, and press them through a fine hair sieve. Put the pulp into a stewpan, with one-eighth of its bulk of good stock or white sauce, or, if preferred, with three or four ounces of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fire until it is very hot, and serve immediately. This puree is used with lamb cutlets, and various other meats. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of peas, when in full season, 6d. per peck. Sufficient, a peck for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Soup. In making green peas soup it is most important that the peas used should neither be old nor of inferior quality, or the flavour of the soup will be spoilt. They are best when they are almost fully grown. Shell a peck of green peas, divide them into two equal parts, and put aside half, or about a pint. Put the rest into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter, a fresh lettuce finely shred, a small sprig of mint (if the flavour be not disHked), a moderatesized onion, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dozen leaves of spinach for colouring. Let the vegetables steam gently in the butter until they are quite soft, stirring occasionally to prevent their burning, then press them through a fine sieve, and mix -with the pulp two quarts of clear strong stock. Return the soup to the saucepan, add a small lump of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a little more salt if required. Bring the liquid to the point of boiling, and skim carefully. Whilst it is simmering, put the pint of peas which was put aside into another saucepan of boiling water with half a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Let the peas boil until tender, then drain them well, and put them into the soup. Serve as hot as possible. Send a little powdered mint to table on a plate, so that it may be used or not. Time, half an hour to steam the peas for pulping ; twenty minutes to boil the remainder. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Peas, Green, Soup, Economical.- If the flavour of the soup is considered so important that appearance may be sacrificed in its favour, proceed as follows : Shell a peck of young peas, wash the shells, throw them into two quarts of boihng water with a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a sprig or two of parsley, and boil them for half an hour. Strain the liquid, and press the shells PEA ( 529 ) PEA well with the back of a wooden spoon, to draw out the flavour. Slice a moderate-sized onion, and steam it gently in haK an ounce of butter until it is tender, without being browned. Put it into a stewpan, pour over it the liquid in which the shells were boiled, add the peas, two lettuce hearts finely shred, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a sprig or two of mint or of tarragon, if either are liked, and a little more salt if required. Simmer gently for an houi-, then press the vegetables through a fine sieve, boil up the pulp again with the liquid, and serve as hot as possible. If preferred, stock may be used instead of part of the water, and the peas may be gently fried in butter, before being put into the soup. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. if made with water. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Peas, Green, Soup, without Meat, Economical and Excellent. Take a quart of green peas fully grown, but neither yellow nor worm-eaten, and put them into a saucepan, with three pints of boiling water, a tea-spoonful of salt, an ounce of butter, two or three sprigs of mint, a dozen spring onions, and a handful of fresh parsley, or a dozen leaves of spinach. Boil until the peas are tender, then strain off the liquor and preserve it. Pound the peas in a mortar, add to them the liquid in which the peas were boiled, and then pass the whole through a fine hair sieve. Bring the soup to the point of boiling, stir into it another ounce of butter, a dessertspoonful of Liebig's extract of meat, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a pinch of pepper, and a Uttle more salt if required. Serve as hot as possible. Time, half an hour to boil the peas. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Peas, Green, Stewed. Shell a peck of young peas, put them into a bowl with plenty of cold water and two ounces of butter, work them well with the fingers to make the peas stick together, and then drain them in a colander. Put the peas into a stewpan, with half a dozen young onions, two cabbage-lettuces cut into small pieces, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew gently over a slow fire for about half an hoitr. If the lettuces and peas do not yield sufficient water a table-spoonful may be added, but if they are simmered gently this will in aU probability be unnecessary. Shake the stewpan occasionally, that all may be equally cooked. Mix two oimces of butter smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and when the peas arc tender put the mixture into the saucepan with them. Shake them over the tire for three or four minutes until the butter is melted, then turn them upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. If preferred, an egg beaten up with a table-spoonful of water may be substituted for the butter. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Stewed with Ham and Iiettuces. Shell a peck of young green peas and prepare them according to the directions given in the last recipe. Put them into a stew pan, with the hearts of two cabbage-lottucca finely shred, a large onion cut into thin slices, a handful of parsley, and half a pound of ham or bacon cut into small pieces. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew until the peas are tender. If necessary add a tablespoonful of water or stock. Shake the saucepan over the fire occasionally to prevent burning. When the peas are cooked enough take out the ham and onion, put in two ounces of butter mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour and a table-spoonful of cream. A sprig or two of mint may be stewed with the peas if the flavour be liked. Simmer gently for four minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, about half an hour to stew the peas. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persona. Peas, Green, with Cream Sauce. Boil a quart of young freshly-gathered peas in slightly salted water until they are tender, then drain them in a colander. Melt two ounces of fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with it a dessert-spoonful of flour, and add very gradually a cupful of thick cream, or failing this, new milk. When the sauce boils put in the peas, stir them until they are quite hot, and serve immediately. Time, from fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil the peas. Probable cost, 8d. per peck when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Nutritive Properties of. Peas are so rich in flesh-forming matter, that they are to be avoided as a simple article of diet ; they are most wholesome when mixed "wath a less nutritive food, such as the potato. The flesh-former in peas is legumin, which closely resembles casein. Green peas contain more sugar and less casein than dried peas. One hundred parts of peas, air dried, is stated to contain : Water 14-1 Casein ...... 23-4 Starch 37-0 Sugar 2-0 Gum 9-0 Fat 2-0 Woody fibre 10-0 Mineral matter . . . . 2o Or, Water 141 Flesh and force producers . .23-4 Force producers .... 600 Mineral matter . . . .2-5 Peas Porridge. Soak a pint of split peas for a night in cold water, and take away those that float. Slice two moderate-sized Spanish onions and fry them in a little hot fat, with two or three sticks of celery cut into twoinch lengths. Drain them and put them into a large saucepan, with a bunch of savoury herbs, two anchovies, or failing these half a red herring, a crust of bread toasted on both sides, and three quarts of cold water. Boil gently until the liquid is strongly impregnated with the flavour of the herbs, &c. Skim and strain it, and return it to the saucepan with the soaked peas and a pound of raw potatoes coarsely grated. Simmer again until the peas are quite soft. Press them through a hair sieve, and PEA ( 530 ) PEA whilst pressing keep pouring a little liquid upon them to soften them. Return the porridge to the saucepan ; and if it is not thick enough add to it a lump of butter mixed smoothly with a little flour. Season with pepper and salt. Cut up half a dozen leeks into two-inch lengths, boil them in the soup, and when they are tender it is ready for serving. Time, three hours or more. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peas Pudding (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). " Put a quart of spht peas into a clean cloth ; do not tie them up too close, but leave a Uttle room for them to swell; put them on to boil in cold water slowly till they are tender ; if they are good peas they wiU be boiled enough in about two hours and a half ; rub them through a sieve into a deep dish, adding to them an egg or two, an ounce of butter, and some pepper and salt ; beat them well together for about ten minutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated together ; then flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, tie it up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour longer. It is as good with boiled beef as it is with boiled pork; and why not with roasted pork ? This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef." To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical housekeeper who has a large family to feed may add to the above ingredients two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many this mixture is more m peas pudding alone. Peas -Pudding (another way). Soak a pint of split peas over night, and remove all that are not quite good. The follow ing morning drain them, tie them in a thick cloth, leave room for swelling, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of soft cold water. If soft water cannot be obtained half a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda should be stirred into that in which the peas are boiled. Boil imtil the peas are tender, then press them thi-ough a colander, stir an ounce of butter into the pulp, with a little pepper and salt, and, if liked, two well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, tie it tightly in a cloth, and boil again for one hour. If the eggs are omitted the pudding wiU have to be served in a shape, as the eggs bind it together. If the peas are not soft at the end of two hours and a half they are of inferior quality and cannot be made soft. One hour's boiling will be found sufficient for superior peas. Time, altogether, to boil, three hours and a haK. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Peas Pudding, Superlative. Soak and boil a pint of peas according to the directions given above, press them through a sieve, season with pepper and salt, and beat thoroughly for eight or ten minutes, first adding three weU-beaten eggs, two ounces of clarified butter, and a table- spoonful of thick cream. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, which it should quite fill, cover - -ith a floured cloth, plunge the mould into boiling water, and let the pudding boil quickly tiU done enough. Turn it out before serving, and send melted butter to table with it. Time, four hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peas, Puree of {see Peas, Green, Puree of). Peas Soup. Peas soup may be made from dried peas either whole or spht : the latter are to be preferred. Soak a quart of peas over night. The next day wash and drain them, and put them into a large saucepan, with six ounces of lean ham, or if it is at hand, the knuckle-bone of a ham, three sliced carrots, two onions, and three or four sticks of celery cut into small pieces. Pour over these three quarts of the liquor in which pork, beef, or mutton has been boiled. Simmer gently until the peas are reduced to pulp, stirring frequently, then rub the whole through a hair sieve, and put the soup back into the stewpan. Let it boil, and skim it carefully. Add pepper and salt if necessary, stir in an. ounce of butter, and serve as hot as possible. Send powdered mint or powdered sage to table on a separate dish. A table -spoonful of curry powder will greatly improve the soup. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 9d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Peas Soup (another way). 'When no stock is at hand procure two pennyworth of fresh bones the day before the soup is wanted. "Wash them well, trim them, and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, two carrots, three onions, one turnip, four or five sticks of celery, eight peppercorns, half a teaspoonful of dried mint, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a table-spoonful of moist sugar. Bring the hquid to a boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for four or five hours. Soak a pint of split peas over night. The next day wash and boil them gently in a quart of water until they are reduced to a pulp. Be careful to stir frequently, or the peas may burn to the bottom. Strain the stock and mix it with the peas. Bofl. all together until the peas are well mixed with the soup, and add two oimces of butter which have been smoothly mixed with three dessert-spoonfuls of floui-, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and a pinch of cayenne. Boil for half an hour, then rub the soup through a hair sieve, boil again, and serve immediately. Send toasted sippets and powdered dried mint to table on separate dishes. Time, from an hour and a half to three hours to boil the peas ; half an hour to boil the soup. If the water used in making peas soup has been previously used in cooking animal or vegetable food, the soup will thereby be greatly improved. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peas Soup (another way). Cut two ounces of lean ham or bacon into dice, and fry them with a sliced onion in a little dripping until they are lightly browned. Put with them one turnip, two carrots, three or four sticks of celery, and one leek, all cut into small pieces, and stir the whole of the above ingredients over the fire for ten minutes more. Pour over them three q. arts of water, boil, and add a pint of PEA (531) PEC peas ?wliicli have been soaked in cold water all night. Boil gently until the peas are quite Boft, stir frequently to prevent burning, then add a little salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a salt-spoonful of di-icd and powdered mint. Rub the soup through a sieve. If it is not sufficiently thick, stir into it three or four ounces of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Boil half an hour longer, and serve very hot. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 8d. ' Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peas Soup (another way). Soak a quart of spUt peas aU night. Wash them in two or thi-ee waters, and put them into a large stewpan with half a dozen of the outer sticks of a head of celery, two large scraped carrots, two onions, two pounds weight of salt pork, and three quarts of water. Boil gently until the peas are tender, stirring frequently, then take out the pork, and rub the soup through a hair sieve, or a colander. Pour it back into the saucepan, let it boil, stirring occasionally, season with a little pepper and salt if necessary, and put in the pork whic'i has been cut up into convenient-sized pieces. When the meat is hot the soup is ready for serving. Send toasted sippets, and either dried and powdered mint, or dried and powdered sage, to table on separate dishes. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peas Soup, Nutritive Properties of. Peas soup, says the Inventory of the Food Collection at Bethnal Green Museum, is one of the most economical articles of diet. The following ingredients will make one gallon of palatable and nutritious soup: Peas, sixteen ounces ; meat, sixteen ounces : pot barley, one ounce; salt, an ounce and a half; onions, an ounce and a half ; black pepper, forty grains ; and water, four quarts. The peas should be boiled in three or four pints of the water (cold) for twelve hours. The meat should be boiled in five pints of the water for three hours. The peas should then be put in a bag, and boiled with the meat one hour. The contents of the bag should then be pressed into the soup, and the skins removed. The salt, pepper, onions, and pot barley should then be added, and the whole boiled for an hour. Water should be added from time to time, to make up a gallon. If the water had been pre\aously used in cooking animal or vegetable food, the soup will be rendered more nutritious. One pint of this soup contains : Water 17-0 Legumin or casein .... 0-270 Starch 1-0 Sugar 0-16 Fat 0-257 Gum 0-40 Woody fibre 0-41 Gelatin 0-147 Mineral matter .... 0-103 Or, Water 17-0 Flesh and force producers . . 0-270 Force producers . . . .2-64 Mineral matter . . . . 0-103 While this and other soups arc to be commended, it should be recollected that they cannot be made a substitute for solid food, such as bread and meat." Peas Soup, Quickly and Easily Made. If there be at hand any stock, made from bones or any of the liquid in which meat has been boiled, it may be quickly converted into peas soup by stirring into it a small quantity of prepared peas, sold by all grocers, in packets, at Id., 2d., 3d., and 6d. The powder should be mixed smoothly with a little cold liquid, and added gradually to the soup, which must afterwards boil for fully a quarter of an hour. Peas soup made with this powder is not so good as that made with diied peas. Sufficient, a dessert-spoonful of jjowder for a quart of soup ; more, if it is liked very thick. Peas Soup, To Flavour. A pinch of the following savoury powder will impart an agreeable flavour to dried peas soup : Pound together in a mortar one ounce of dried sage, one ounce of dried mint, two drachms of celeryseed, half a drachm of cayenne, and a drachm of allspice. When the ingredients are reduced to powder, put them into a perfectly dry bottle, cork securely, and store until wanted for use. Peas, Split, Boiling of. In boiling split peas, some samples, says Mr. Loudon, fall or moulder down freely into pulp, while others maintain their form. The former are called boilers, and this property of boiling depends on the soil ; stiff land, or sandy land that has been Hmed or marled, or to which gj sum has been apphed, produces peas that will not melt in boiling, no matter what the variety may be. The same effect is produced on beans by the soil or manure, and indeed on all leguminous plants, this family having a great tendency to absorb gj psum from the soil. To counteract this fault in the boilingit is only necessary to throw into the water a small quantity of sub-carbonate of soda. Peas, Sugar. This is a very sweet variety of pea, in which the tough internal film of the pod is wanting. These pods, when young, are boiled whole, and eaten in the same way as French beans. Peasant's Pudding. Butter a moderatesized pie-dish, and fill it witli alternate layers of fruit and thin slices of bread or grated breadcrumbs. Add sugar according to the acidity of the fruit, and if it is not a juicy kind, pour half a cupful of cold water, or a little lemon-juice, over the pudding. Red and white currants, strawberries, raspberries, and cherries wHl not require any water to moisten them. The first layer in the dish shoidd consist of bread, and the last of fruit. Bake in a weU-heated oven for half an hour. Probable cost uncertain, varying, of course, w'th the fruit. This is an inexpensive and wholesome pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pectoral Broth (Invalid Cookery). Cut a chicken into joints and put it into a stewpan, with two pints of cold spring water, a fresh lettuce finely shred, three ounces of prepared Iceland moss, a dessert-spoonful of gum-arabic, a sprig of burrage, two or three sprigs of chervil, and a small pinch of salt and PEE ( 532 ) PEP pepper. Bring tlie liquid gently to a boil, stirring it occasionally, then draw the saucepan to the side and let its contents simmer gently for an hour. Strain it, add a little more salt if required, and serve either hot or cold as a jelly. The flesh of the bird may be made into a chicken panada {see Chicken Panada). The above is good for consumptive persons. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for one person. Peel, Orange and Lemon. The rinds of the orange and lemon may be classed amongst the aromatic condiments. They owe their high flavour to the essential oil they contain, which is extracted, and sold as the essence of oranges and lemons. A few drops of this essential oil is quite as useful as the peel itself : besides it has the advantage of being easily preserved, whereas the peel when iried loses in course of time most of its flavour, from the essential oil escaping. Peels of Fruits, To Preserve the. The portion of the peel to be preserved should be separated from the rest and dried in a gentle heat. Pemmican. Pemmican is a preparation of preserved meat, made by cutting lean meat into thin steaks, drying these thoroughly, reducing the substance to powder, and mixing it with melted fat, or beef suet. It is an indispensable article for the Arctic voyager, and constitutes an important item in the supplies furnished by the Hudson's Bay Company to their employes. The following is an account given by Sir John Richardson of the preparation of pemmican for use in the search for Sir John Franklin: "The round or buttock of beef, of the best quality, having been cut into thin steaks, from which the fat and membranous parts were pared away, was dried in a maltkiln over an oak fire until its moisture was entirely dissipated, and the fibre of the meat became friable. It was then ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled finely-grated meat. Being next mixed with an equal quantity of melted beef suet, or lard, the preparation of plain pemmican was complete ; but to render it more agreeable to the unaccustomed palate, a proportion of the best Zante currants -was added to part of it, and part was sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were much approved of in the sequel, but more especially that to which the sugar had been added. After the ingredients had been wall incorporated by stirring, they were transferred to tin canisters capable of containing eighty-five pounds each, and having been firmly rammed down, and allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled by filling the canister to the brim with melted lard through a small hole left in the end, which was then covered with a piece of tin, and soldered up. Finally the canister was painted and lettered according to its contents." Penguin.- The common penguin is the size of a duck ; the great penguin is as large as a goose. It is only used as food in rare circumstances. Pennant describes the Patagonian penguin as follows : They are very fat, but taste fishy, not unlike our pufiins. As they are very fuU of blood, it is necessary to cut off their heads as soon as they are kiUed, in order that it may run out. It is also requisite that they should be flayed, for without these precautions their flesh is scarcely eatable. When salted, it becomes good food. Sir II. Hopkins preserved in this way sixteen hogsheads, which served as beef above two months. Peninsula Pudding. Take six ounces of picked and dried currants, and four ounces of raisins weighed after they have been stoned. Mi.x with these four ounces of sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a small lemon and powdered, and add six ounces of chopped apples, four ounces of finely-shred suet, three ounces of bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, then stir into them three well-beaten eggs, the strained juice of the lemon, and a glassful of brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould which it will fill to the brim, cover with oiled paper, and tie the mould in a floured cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Turn it out carefully, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and send sweet sauce or wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pepper. Pepper, as used for seasoning, is the produce of a plant which grows almost exclusively in tropical countries, and is remarkable for its aromatic, hot, pungent taste. There are several kinds to be met with, of which the most important are black pepper, white pepper, long pepper, cayenne pepper, and NeUgherry pepper {see under these different THE PEPPER PLANT. headings). In order to test the quality of the peppercorns rub them between the hands ; if they are easily crushed to powder they are bad. Pepper was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. We find two sorts described in the fourth century e.g. At one time it held a much more important place in the commerce of the world than now, having been, before the days of cotton, coffee, and sugar, a leading article in the traffic between Europe and India. Tribute PEP ( 533 ) PEP was levied in pepper, and it was often used as a medium of exchange. When Rome was besieged by Alaric, in the beginning of the fifth century, he demanded as a ransom, besides gold and silver, 3,000 pounds of popper. Dealers in spices were of old called pepperers, and in the twelfth century they formed a fraternity which afterwards merged into the Grocers' Company. ' ' Pepper is very generally employed as a condiment, and from its promoting the secretion of the gastric juice, it aids the digestive powers of the stomach, sometimes rendered necessary in our artificial mode of living ; but, even in small quantities, it is hurtful in inflammatory habits." Pepper, Black. This is the most important sort of pepper. It is the dried ripe berry of a climbing plant that has been cultivated in India for ages. In the state in which we receive the berries they are black and wrinkled. They are then ground into the coarse grey powder known at table as black pepper. From Pereira we learn that there are three kinds of black pepper, distinguished by wholesale dealers. These are " Malabar Pepper this is the most valuable ; it is brownish black, free from stalks, and nearly free from dust. Penang pepper this is brownish black, larger, smoother, free from stalks, but very dusty. It is sometimes used in England to manufacture white pepper. Sumatra pepper this is the cheapest sort. It is black mixed with stalks, and contains much dust. Under the name of Sumatra pepper, some dealers include the Penang or brownish black sort, and the black Sumatra sort." Pepper, Butter Seasoned with {see Butter Seasoned with Pepper). Pepper, Cayenne, is a compound article, the chief ingredient of which is the epidermis and pulp of the comutnon capsicum, a plant much cultivated in most tropical cUmates. The best cayenne pepper is manufactured in the West Indies. " The berries, which are often larger than an egg, although other varieties are scarcely larger than a clove, are opened, and the seeds are taken out : the scarlet epidermis and pulp are then well beaten up with flour and salt into a paste, which is afterwards baked Tintil quite hard, and then ground into a coarse powder, which is put into well-corked bottles for use. Other methods are used, but this is the mode of preparing the much-prized West India cayenne pepper." Cayenne pepper has become a necessary article at table, and is highly esteemed for its flavour and the quality it is supposed to possess of aiding the digestion of fish and other kinds of food. One may reasonably question whether indulgence in this powerful spice is conducive to health, for though cayenne pepper, like highly-flavoured Indian soys, may occasionally assist digestion, it would perhaps be better for persons of weak digestion to abstain from food requiring a vigorous stomach, than to employ artificial stimulants. The capsicum from which cayenne pepper is mostly obtained is a native of the East and West Indies, where it grows readily with very little care. " There are," says Dr. Yeats, " numerous species of capsicum, named after the form and colour of the pod, which varies considerably. All are, however, included under the Mexican name of chiUies. In tropical countries chillies are used in great quantities, the consumption as a condiment being almost universal, and nearly equal to that of salt. In India they are the principal ingredients in all curries, Eind form the only seasoning which the millions of the poor of that country can obtain to eat with. their insi2:)id rice. Capsiciuns or chillies are imported into this country in the form of red and brown pods, which are broken, dried, and packed in bales, weighing 2 cwt., principally for making pepper." Pepper Gherkins. Choose the gherkins of uniform size, and not more than tw+ inches long. Cover with salt, and leave them until the next day, then wipe each one singly with a cloth, and put them into jars . cover with boiling vinegar, and allow a dozen bay-leaves, a sprig of tarragon, a quarter of an ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and a quarter of salt, two smaU blades of mace, and two shallots, to each quart of vinegar. Cover the jars, and leave them for three days ; then dru,m off the vinegar, boil it up, let it get quite cold, pour it once more over the gherkins, and tie the jarg securely down with bladder. Store in a cool dry place. Probable cost, -uncertain. Pepper, Long, is the product of a plant found in the Crrcar mountains, where it is gathered in its wild state. It is imported into England from Bengal, but in inconsiderable quantities, as the qualities of long pepper are analogous to those of white pepper. It is a favourite in some culinary operations, particularly in making pickles. Pepper, Neilgherry. The NeUgherry pepper, so much prized by East Indian gourmets, is prepared from the hemes of a vellow variety of the pepper-plant, cultivated for the purpose on the Neilgherry Hills. It is flavoured with cumin and other aromatic seeds. Pepper Pot (a hotch-potch). Put four quarts of boiUng water into a large stewpan, with a mixture of any meats that may be preferred either three pounds of gravy beef and half a pound of lean ham, or three pounds of the neck of mutton and half a pound of pickled pork ; add half a cupful of best rice, a bunch of savoury herbs, two large onions, and three large potatoes coarsely grated. Skim the liquid carefully during the first half hour, aijd let it simmer gently untU all the goodness is drawn out of the meat. This will require from three to four hours. Strain the soup and let it stand until cold, so that the fat may be entirely removed. Put the liquid into the stewpan, with a large fowl cut into joints, and the meat of a lobster or crab finely minced. When the fowl is almost tender, put in a dozen small light suet dumplings, and a pint and a half of whatever vegetables are in season cut up into small pieces. In summer these wiU consist of peas,, cauhflowers, French beans, lettuces, or spinach, and in winter of carrots, turnips, or celery. Season with cayenne and salt, if required. When the vegetables are done enough serve the entire preparation in a tureen. In the PEP (534) PEE West Indies, -wliere this dish, is a great favourite, it is so highly seasoned that it is universally known as "'pepper pot." Time, ahout an hour after the fowl is put in. The prohable cost varies with the ingredients. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pepper PotjWest Indian. In country houses where much company is kept, a difficulty is often experienced in disposing of the remains of poultry or game, and thus avoiding waste. The follo ving dish may be recommended, as being palatable and convenient, and also a great favourite with those who have tried it. Procure a bottle of casaripe sauce. This sauce is sent from the "West Indies. It is thick and dark in appearance, and is sold in quart bottles. Take whatever remains of meat or poultry you may have, cut them into convenient pieces, trim them neatly, put them into a pan, and cover them with the sauce. Make the whole hot over the fire, and take out as much as is required for immediate use. Put a further supply of game, &c., into the pot when there are any remains, remembering always to 'cover the additional meat with sauce, and to warm it each time it is used. The sauce wiU keep the meat quite good. Pepper, Purchase of. Unless one consumes pep*per in considerable quantities, little should be bought at a time. The strength of it, especially in a ground state, is constantly lessened by exposure to the air. Pepper Vinegar. Take fifty fresh red English chilHes, cut them in two, put them into a wide-necked bottle, and pour over them a pint of best vinegar. Let them remain for a fortnight, and shake the bottle occasionall5\ Strain, and bottle for use. Fresh vinegar may be put over the chiUies three or four times, until the strength is exhausted. This %Tnegar is an agreeable addition to melted butter in making fish sauces, and is very useful for flavouring purposes. If genuine cayenne can be obtained, a quarter of an ounce put into a pint of vinegar will answer the same purpose. English chillies are at their best during September and October. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 3s. per hundred chillies. Sufficient for a pint of vinegar. Pepper Water (for flavouring). Strain the juice of a fresh lemon into a pint and a half of cold water. Slice an onion and pound it in a mortar, with twelve peppercorns, three cloves of garhc, a table-spoonful of curry powder, and a dessert-spoonful of salt. Put all into a saucepan, bring the liquid to the point of boiling, cover closely, and let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain it through muslin. Put with it a small onion which has been chopped small and fried lightly in butter. Boil up once more, and the pepper water is ready to be bottled. Cork closely, and store in a cool, diy place. In India, where this recipe is in great repute, a piece of tamarind is substituted for the lemon-juice. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. Pepper, White. White pepper is the product of the same plant as black pepper. To manufacture it the black wrinkled coats of the seeds are removed by soaking and friction. They are then ground to powder. White pepper is by many preferred to black, on account of its superior appearance. It is deficient, however, in both strength and flavour. Like black pepper, white pepper is divided by wholesale dealers into three kinds or varieties. These a,Te Tellicherry pepper, which is of two kinds. Large or fine Tellicherry pepper is larger and whiter than any other description of white pepper, and fetches a higher price ; small or coriander-Uke pepper is shrivelled. Common white pepper comes from Penang by Singapore ; it is round, and not shrivelled ; its value depends on its size and whiteness. English bleached or white pepper. When the two preceding sorts are scarce, brown Penang pepper is bleached. The yellowest and largest grains are chosen for this purpose, for neither an expensive nor small sort would pay. Pepper used to be subject to scandalous adulteration. Peppermint Cordial. Take of white sugar and water in the proportion of 196 pounds of the former to fifteen gallons of the latter. Break the sugar into pieces, put it into a 120-gallon cask, and pour the water on it. Let it stand till the next day ; then put a stick into the bunghole, and rummage until the sugar is dissolved. Next add two ounces of EngUsh oil of peppermint and fortj' gallons of proof spirit. Mix well, and add, further, enough water to make the whole up to 106 gallons. Let the cordial stand till fine. Peppermint Drops. Rub the inside of a brass or block- tin saucepan with a little oil oi butter. Put into it half a pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and two or three table-spoonfuls of water or of strained lemonjuice. Place the saucepan on the fire, and let the syrup boil for ten minutes, then stir into it a dessert-spoonful of the essence of peppermint, or one hundred and twenty drops of the oil of peppermint. Let the mixture fall in drops upon white paper which has been well rubbed over with butter. Probable cost, Id. per ounce. Peppers, To Pickle Quickly. Put a hundred poppers into a bowl, and pour over them a strong brine, made with a pint and a half of salt and as much water as will cover them. Put a board over them to keep them under the water, and let them lie for two days. Drain them, make a small incision in the side of each to let out the water, wipe them with a soft cloth, and put them into a stone jar, with half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, and a small lump of alum. Pour cold vinegar over them, and tie a bladder securely over the jar. When pickled in this way, the peppers will preserve their colour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. Perch. The perch is one of the commonest of our fresh-water fish : at the same time it is one of the best. It is met with in almost all the lakes and rivers of Great Britain and Ireland, and throughout the whole of the temperate regions of the continent. Perch abound in deep, dark, sluggish rivers, and delight to lie about bridges, miU-pools, and in any deep and dark holes in the still parts of water, or PER ( 635 ) PER the gentle eddies about flood-gates and similar places. When full-grown they are large fish : one weighing a pound is a good fish, and one of thi-ee pounds is thought very large ; hut they have been found weighing even eight or nine pounds. The flesh is white, firm, of a good flavour, and easily digested. Perch are so tenacious of life that they may be carried sLxty miles in straw, and yet survive the joiu-ney. They are best crimped the moment they are taken out of the water. The peculiarity about the flesh of the perch is that it is very diSicult to scale, so much so that some cooks boil the fish first and scale it afterwards. If this is not done, it mil be found an assistance to plunge it for a minute into boiling water, and then scale it. Perch is in season from the latter end of May till the THE PEECH. beginning of February. When fresh, the body has a bright shining appearance, and the gills are rosy red. I'erch, like all fresh-water fish, should be used as soon as possible after they are caught. Perch (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Put as much cold water as will cover the fish into a saucepan, with half a dozen chives, a handful of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Put it on the fire, and bring it to a boil. Wash the fish in lukewai-m water to free it from the slime, empty it, remove the gills and the fins, and scrape it carefully. Plimge it into the boiling water, and when done enough, which will be when the flesh gives way on being pressed with the finger, drain and dish it on a folded napkin, garnish with curled parsley, and send a sauce, made as follows, to table in a tureen: Mix two ounces of fresh butter smoothly with one oimce of flour. Add a quarter of a pint of milk, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a table-sjjoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir the mixture over the flre without ceasing until it is on the point of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, add to it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and serve very hot. Time to boil the fish, according to the size : small fish, ten minutes ; large, hall an hour. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufiicient, a moderatesized perch for each person. Perch, Boiled. Wash the fish in luke?warm water to take off the slime, scale it carefully, empty it, take out the gills, cut off the fins, place "the fish in boiling salted water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. In order to ascertain when this point is reached, press the fish with the fingers ; if it gives way to the touch it is done. Take it up, drain it, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley, and send melted butter, parsley sauce, or Dutch sauce, to table in a tureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour for a moderate-sized fish. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufiicient for one person. Perch, Boiled (another way). Clean them carefully and put them in a fish-kettle with as much cold spring-water as will cover them, adding a handful of salt. Set them on a quick fire till they boil. When they boil, set them on one side to boil gently for about ten minutes, according to their size. Perch, Fried. Wash, scale, and clean the fish carefully, wipe them dry, and flour them lightly all over ; then rub off the flour, dip them into beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of boiling fat, until they are nicely browned. Drain them for a few minutes on an inverted sieve, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Send shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, or plain melted butter, to table in a tm-een. Time to fry, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, four or five for a dish. Perch, Pried, with Herbs. Take two moderate-sized perch. Wash, empty, and scale them carefully, wipe them dry, and lay them on a dish. Sprinlde a little salt and pepper over them, and pour on them six table-spoonfuls of oil. Let them soak for half an hour, and turn them once during that time. Drain them well, and cover them thickly with finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and flavoured with a powdered clove, or a httle grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Broil on a moderate fire till the fish are brightly browned, serve on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and send ..aelted butter, parsley sauce, or piquant sauce to table in a tureen. Time to broil, ten minutes or more, according to size. Sufficient for two persons. Perch, Potted. Take ten or twelve moderate-sized perch. Empty them, take out the gills, skin them, and cut off the heads, tails, and fins. Put them into a pie-dish that will only just hold them when they are closely packed, sprinkle a Httle salt over them, and lay on them a muslin bag containing the following ingredients, which have been crushed to powder : eight peppercorns, two chillies, four allspice, half an inch of ginger, a bay-leaf, and a laurelleaf. Put ten ounces of fresh butter, cut into shoes, upon the fish, cover it closely, and bake in a gentle oven. When done, lift out the bag, and keep the fish in a cool place until wanted. Serve cold. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Perch, stewed. Take three or four moderate-sized perch. Wash, scale, and empty them, and take out the gills, put them into a stewpan, and barely cover them with weak PER ( 536 ) PER stock, or water. Put witli them a large onion cut into slices, four cloves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a hay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and two pinches of pepper. Simmer gently until the fish is done enough. In order to ascertain when this is the case, press the flesh with the finger, when it should give way to the touch. Lift out the perch, and drain them. Strain the liquid in which they were stewed, thicken it with a little flour and butter, and boil it quickly for a few minutes. Stir into it a wine-glassful of claret, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, a small pinch of c ayenne, and a table-spoonSul of chopped parsIcy. Skin the fish, preserve the tins, put them upon a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and put the fins at each side of them ; serve very hot. Time to stew the perch, fifteen or twenty minutes, according to size. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Perch Stewed in Wine. Like aU fish of its kind, the perch, though very good when plainly dressed, is slightly insipid ; it is therefore very often cooked, as the great Izaak Walton says, "with trouble and charges." When economy is not studied, the following will bo found an excellent dish : Take three mediumsized perch, wash, then scale and empty them, and take out the gills. Lay them in a stewpan, and just cover them with equal parts of sherry and stock, or, if preferred, with sherry only. Put with them a sliced onion, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a small clove of garlic, and a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently until they are sufficiently cooked. Drain them, and keep them hot until the sauce is made. Strain the liquor, put it into a stewpan, and mix gradually with it an ounce of flour which has been smoothly worked with an ounce of butter ; let it boil, then add a large table-spoonful of chopped parsley and half an ounce of cold butter. Stir the sauce until the butter is dissolved. Take the whole of the skin off the perch, pour the sauce over them, and stick the red fins into the middle of the backs; serve as quickly as possible. Time, about a quarter of an hour to stew the perch. It is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Perch, Water Souchy. This is the best way to dress perch. When they are plentiful, take the smallest fish, clean them, cut them into pieces, and boil slowly with some parsleyroots, and whole pepper, and salt, till a strong broth is obtained. Strain the broth through fine muslin, pick out the parsley-roots, sUce them, and return them to the strained liquor, in which the larger perch, previously crimped, are to be boiled. When about done, introduce a few bunches of parsley previously scalded in water to preserve their green colour. Serve in a deep di.sh, accompanied by slices of brown bread-and-butter. No sauce is required, the broth, with the addition at table of pepper and salt, being sufficient. Perch, Water Souchy (another way). Put into a saucepan as much water as wiU barely cover the fish. Throw into it a little pepper and salt, and a handful of parsley. Wash, clean, and scale the fish. Take out the giUs and cut off the fins, but let the milt and liver remain inside. As soon as the parsley is soft, lay in the fish. Put with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and let it simmer gently until it is done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the liquid in which it was cooked poured over it. If preferred, the fish may be filleted, and weak stock substituted for the water. Send brown, bread and butter to table as an accompaniment. Time to boil, ten to twelve minutes. Perch is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, one perch for one person. Perigord Pie. This celebrated pie derives its name from Perigord, in France, which is a place celebrated for its truffles. It will be evident from this that truffles enter largely into its composition ; and as they are both expensive and scarce, it will generally be found more satisfactory to purchase the pies which are imported than to endeavour to manufacture them at home. Nevertheless, as there may be some who prefer making to buying them, the following recipe is given : Procure some fine truffles, and be particular to smell them, and reject any that are at aU musty ; one pound will be required for three partridges. Soak them for two or three hours in fresh water, to loosen the earth about them, then rinse them well, and scrub them with a hard brush. Peel them, mince the small and broken ones, and put the . rest aside for a little while. Truss, as if for boiling, as many partridges as wiU be required for the size of the pie. Bone and lard them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, and powdered spice. Make some highly-seasoned forcemeat, according to the directions given for quenelles. Mix with it the minced truffles, and stuff the birds with whole truffles and a portion of the forcemeat. Make a raised crust {see Paste for Raised Pies). Line it with slices of bacon and forcemeat. Place the birds in it, backs downmost, fill the vacant places with forcemeat, lay a slice of bacon on the top, put on the hd, ornament as fancy dictates, and bake in a well-heated oven. Perigord Pie (another way). See Game Perigord Pie). P rigueux Sauce. Soak, rinse, and scrub four or five truffles. Mince them finely, and put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of good brown sauce, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and a glassful of sherry or madeira. Simmer for ten minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of the gravy from meat or half a teaspoonful of Liebig's extract of meat, dissolved in a little boiling water, and half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy. Serve with roast chicken, &c. When no brown sauce is at hand it may be easily made, as follows : Work equal parts of butter and flour smoothly together. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire for three minutes, until it is brightly coloured, then add, gradually, as much stock as will make it of the consistency of thick cream. Season with pepper and salt, and boil the sauce for a minute or two, when it is ready for use. Time, PER (537 ) PER ten minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, varying with the price of the truffles. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Periwinkle. Llttor'um llttorea is pre-eminently thr jxriwinkle of the British coasts. Imminsc qiiantities are brought to the London market, and form a considerable article of food among the poorer classes. After being boiled, the animal is picked out of the shell with a pin. Periwinkles, Boiled. Wash the periwinkles in sevei-al waters, and then let them soak in plenty of fresh water for half an hour ; when that is done, wash them again. These precautions will be found necessary to cleanse the fish from the mud and sand which adhere to them. Before boiling, shake them up to make them withdraw into their shells. Put them into a saucepan, and cover with boiling sea-water that has stood a little while to settle, and then been poured off from the sediment. Boil quickly for twenty minutes, and serve, accompanied by brown bread and butter. Probable cost, 'id. a pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Perricot. To make this liqueur take four ounces each of the kernels of apricots and nectarines ; mash them in a mortar along with eight ounces of peach-leaves and half that quantity of black cm-rant-leaves ; add a drachm of beaten cinnamon and a drachm of mace. Put all these ingredients into five quarts of prepared spirit, let them infuse for a week, then draw off about two quarts, or, if it runs clear, five pints, with a gentle heat. Perry and Cider. These are fermented beverages, prepared from the juice of pears and apples. They are not usually reckoned among the wines, but they belong to that class of beverages as much as those obtained from currants, gooseberries, and other fruits. Both are of ancient date : Pliny tells us that they were made by the Romans in Italy. There are many varieties of pears suited for making peiTy. In Gloucestershire the Tinton squash is in the highest esteem ; it is an early fruit, and remarkable for the tenderness of its flesh. The perry obtained from it is pale and sweet, yet uncormnonly fine, and of a strong body. The Oldtield pear is another favourite ; it yields a finely-flavoured liquor. The Barland pear of Worcestershire is in high repute, as is also the red pear. The best pears for perry, or, at least, the kinds which hitherto have been deemed the fittest for making the liquor, are so excessively tart and harsh, that no one can think of eating them as fruit : even hungry swine will not feed on them. All pears which possess colour and richness are capable of making peny, but a good perrs' pear requires an assemblage of qualities which are not often met with in the same fruit. " It must contain a large proportion of sugar, or its juice can never possess sufficient strength ; and unless it be at the .same time a.stringent, the liquor produced from it will be acetous whenever it ceases to be .saccharine ; in the latter state it Avill agree with few constitutions, in the former with none. The juice of the best perry pears, according to one authoritv, ' is so 35 harsh and rough as to occasion a long-continued heat and ii-ritation in the throat when the fruit I is attempted to be eaten ; yet by being simply pressed from the pulp, it becomes rich and sweet, without more roughness than is agroe' able to almost every palate.' This circumstance, though extraordinary, does not stand alone in the vegetable world ; there are many cases where similar changes take place with acrid vegetable substances." To afford perry in the greatest perfection, the pear must be in a certain state of maturity : it should be ripe without being either mellow or decajdng. The produce of the same tree ripens very irregularly; the j lanter must therefore have a considerable number of each kind he plants, or he ?ill rarely have a sufficient quantity of fruit ready to be ground at the same time. Even when the pears have fallen spontaneously from the trees, a fourth at least of some kinds will be found immature or decajdng, and quite unfit for making fine perrj'. These ought to be separated from the rest ; though they rarely or never are. To speak now of the apples required for cider : no juice can be depended on for making a good liquor that does not possess at the same time body and flavour ; the former depends on the juice contained in the pulp or flesh of the fruit, and the latter on the juice contained in the external skin or peel, and in the seeds or pips. The most agreeable ajiples to the palate are those which abound in a juice at once sweet and acidulous, whereas those which suit best for cider have the juice both sweet and acerb, with little mixture of acid. Hence the best fruits for cider manufacture, with few exceptions, are too astringent to be in demand for table use. Perry and cider are obtained from their respective fruits pretty much in the same way. To describe the process of making the one, will enable the reader to understand how to make the other. We shall describe, then, the manufacture of cider, that being decidedly the most popular liquor. " Cider is manufactured," says a writer in the English Cyclopcedia, " with very rude machinery, by the following process: The apples are thrown into a circular stone trough, usually about eighteen feet in diameter, called the chase, roimd which the runner, a heavy circular stone, is turned by one or sometimes two horses. When the fruit has been ground until the rind and the core are so completely reduced that a handful of ' must,' when squeezed, will all pass without lumps between the fingers, and the maker sees from the white spots that are in it that the pips have been broken, a square horsehair cloth is spread under a screw-press ; and some of the must is poured with pails upon the hair, the edges and corners of which are folded inwards so as to prevent its escape. Ten or twelve of these hairs are piled and fiUed one upon the other, and then siu-mounted with a frame of thick boards. [This is the process in Hereford district. In Devonshire a lever press is used, and ' reed," unthrashed straw, is placed in layers in the place of hairs. The method used in the South of France for expressing oil from olives is identically the same]. Upon tb'* PER ( 538 ) PER the screw is slowly worked down by a lever ; and with the pressui-e, a thick brown juice exudes from the hairs, lea ng within them only a dry residue, which, in years when apples are scarce, is sometimes mixed with water, ground again, and the liquid pressed out as before. This latter product is called ' water cider,' a thin unpalatable liquor, which is given to the labourers early in the year. " The cider is received by a channel in the frame of the press upon which the hairs stand, emptying into a flat tub called a ' trin.' From the trin it is poured with buckets or ' racking cans ' into casks, placed either out of doors or in sheds where there is a free current of air. In about three or four days, more or less according to the heat of the weather, the liquor usually will ferment ; the thick heavier parts will subside as a sediment at the bottom of the cask, and the lighter become bright clear cider. This should then be ' racked,' or di-awn off, into another cask, and the sediment be put to strain through linen bags, and what oozes from them should be restored. "It is during the fermentation that the management of cider is least understood, and there is the greatest hazard of injur}-. It is necessary also to know what fruit will by itself make good cider, which kinds should be ground together, and what proportions should be mixed. But it is in the preservation of the strength and flavour after the cider is ground that the principal difliculty consists : slight fermentation will leave the liquid thick and unpalatable; rajnd fennentation will impair both its strength and durability; caress irt fermentation will make it sour, harsh, and thin. Other things being equal, that cider will probably be the best in which the vinous fermentation has proceeded slowly, and has not been confounded with the acetous. The remedies used in cases of cider not clearing, are either yeast, or the addition of ?cider in a state of fermentation, isinglass, eggs, jr a quart of fresh blood stirred up with the liquor, in which last case it is to be racked on the following day : these do not always prove effectual. But the common evils are excess or rapidity of fermentation ; and if a better quality than farm-house or ' family drink ' is sought, cider requires so much care to prevent its being spoiled, that the best and most careful makers frequently have i looked at during each night for some weeks after it is made ; and if the bubbling hissing noise, the sign of fermentation, becomes frequent or too loud, the liquor is immediately racked off into another cask. This check often requires to be repeated several times, but although at each racking some portion of the strength will be lost, the body flavour and sweetness will chiefly be retained. It is not the habit of the farmer to add sugar, treacle, brandy, or any colouring matter to the liquor; it is only adulterated in the hands of cider dealers and publicans who will not lose a hogshead, and if one has turned sour or has been otherwise damaged, it must be ' doctored ' in order to render it miirketable." At the beginning of January the cider is moved into cellars. In March the liquor is bunged down ; it may be used soon afterwards, though it will greatly improve by keeping. If I bottled cider is required, it should be bottled and wu-ed in the September or October after it , is made. Some persons prefer an earlier time the end of April or the beginning of May ; a ! greater degree of effervescence is thus attained, I but a considerable loss accrues from the number I of bottles that will be burst. The quantity of cider consimied by workmen is very large. The usual allowance given by masters in Herefordshire is two or three quarts I a day; and in harvest-time many labourers drink in a day ten or twelve quarts of a liquor ? that in a stranger's mouth would be mistaken for \dnegar. The men do not like sweet cider. Cider of good quality is manufactured in Ireland, in the counties of Waterford and Cork ; in Normandy, whence we have many of our best apples ; in Belgium ; and in Germany, the product of the last-named country being of I inferior quality. It is also made in abundance, and of excellent quality, in many parts of the United States. Good cider contains about six per cent, of I proof spirit. It is sometimes adulterated with lead, with a view to concealing tartness. This is II highly injurious practice, lead being a dangerous poison. Common cider is also exten I sively employed for the manufacture of spurious wine. Notwithstanding the extensive scale on which j cider is generally manufactiu ed in the cider counties, it is by no means necessary ; and it is quite possible to make it in small quantities of as excellent a quahty as is procurable in any other manner. The superabundant apples of a I moderately large garden may be economically converted to this use, and without a great deal of trouble. The machinery necessarv- for making cider I on this domestic scale is simple, and easily I obtainable at a small expense. The following ' answers the purpose as well as more costly ' apparatus : I A tub is to be procured, made of strong staves ; the bottom is to be much thicker than I usual, and the peripheral edge of it must be at I least half an inch thick where it is let into the chi-nib. The iron hoops must be strong, especially the two lower ones on the chimb. This tub is to answer the purjioses of a crushing trough ; it must sustain the strokes of a heavy pounder, and hence the necessity of its being made as strong as possible. The diameter ef the bottom of the tub should be only eighteen inches ; its height about the same. The next article is the pounder. This is to be made of any hard wood. Its shape may be easily conceived by imagining a cone, about the size of an ordinary loaf of sugar, with a handle, proceeding from its apex, of about four feet in length. The base of the cone should be perfectly flat. The press which will be foimd most convenient, is the common square clothes' press. It consists of a rectangular horizontal board, three feet in length, a foot and a half in breadth, and at least foui- inches in thickness. At each end of this, and mid-way in the breadth, is erected a perpendicular square pillar, the transverse section of which is about four inches square ; the height of each pillar is three feet. PER ( 539 PER Prom the top of one 'pillar to the other is -extended a cross-bar of considerable scantling, not under six inches square, and thi-ough the middle of this is a hele with a concave screw, which receives the convex screw that constitutes the press. The perpendicular convex screw is attached at its lower end to a pressing board, ?which slides up and down between the two pillars, and has had square pieces cut out of its ends to receive the pillars, which by this contrivance keej) it always in its place, while it follows the screw in its ascent or descent. The pressing board follows the screw because the latter is so attached that it can turn freely in the pressing board, but cannot be drawn out. The pressing board is made equally thick with the rectangular board which constitutes the basis of the whole press. The screw, near where it is inserted iilto the pressing board is made to swell into a bulb ; and through this are two cross holes to admit an ii-on bar, for the purpose of acting as a lever in working the press. The whole is made of hard wood, firmly put together by dove-tails, and strengthened with iron cramps. The pressing board may be screwed down even until it meets the bottom board ; or it may be screwed up until it arrives at the top cross-bar. It is obvious, from the construction of this press, that if a bag of apple- juice be submitted to its action, the juice wiU be forced out, but wiU run over its bottom board and go to waste. In order to prevent this, a tin tray is made use of. This tray is rectangular, its area is a little less than that of the pressing board; it is shallow, its rims being only about two inches in height. Proceeding from one side, corresponding with the front of the press, a pipe emerges, so that whatever juice is forced through the bag of pulp win trickle down the sides of the bag, will be received in the tray, and from this will flow through the pipe into a vessel placed beneath. The pipe is somewhat bent downward for the purpose of more freely delivering itself. It is to be observed that when a bag of pulp is to be pressed, it must be set standing on its end in the middle of the tray, and immediately under the screw above. The bag need not be tied round its mouth, but only folded over loosely ; the pressing board will keep it sufficiently tight. The bag may be made of strong canvass or hair-cloth, strongly sewed with double t-hread or pack-thread. These are the chief articles of apparatus required for domestic cider-making. In crushing the apples, it will not answer to throw a number of them into the tub at once, and to commence pounding them. In this way vast labour would be expended in doing the business very badly. The proper mode is to throw in half a dozen first, and crush them well, which will be done with three or four strokes of the pounder ; then another half dozen may be thrown in and similarly treated. 'WTien there is so much pulp in the tub as to embarrass the further crushing of the fruit, it must be transferred into any other wooden vessel. The apples being all reduced to a tolerably small pulp, the next part of the process is to express the juice. The pulp thrown into the canvas bag is to be put under the press, and I the juice forced out by a gradual and steadilyurged action of the screw. In this way the juice may be drawn out perfectly transparent ; but if the screw be urged suddenly, or by starts, the juice wiU be muddy, and the quantity of lees will occasion some loss of cider. Jt will be found also that when the pressing board can be forced no tighter, by leaving it untouched for a few minutes it will be easy to foice it a httle more, and by repeating this process a much greater product of juice may be obtained than if force enough had been applied at first to endanger the press. Having procured the necessary quantity of juice, the next step is its fermentation. A very convenient fermenting apparatus is a cask which has no bung-hole, or has it well stopped up. This cask is set standing on either of its ends ; a cock is fixed in one of the staves, about an inch above the bottom chimb; so that in di-awing off the liquid the sediment cannot also run. In the centre of the top of the cask, that is, in the centre of its other end, a hole is to be bored, of such size as will admit a large bottlecork. The cask set on end should be filled with apple-juice through the cork-hole at the top, and it may be left to ferment at the natural temperature of the au- should it be not under 6 in the shade. If the air be lower than that degree, the cask must be placed near the fire. In some hours (many will elajise if the month be November, and especially if it be cold for the season) the fermentation commences, the head of yeast rises up thi'ough the cork-hole, is retained bj the chimb, falls back into liquor for the most part, and runs back into the cask, lea\ing the true yeast on the top outside. This arrangement succeeds better in the beginning' of September; but if the season be much mure advanced, it will be better not to fill up the cask entu'ely. In this way the yeast will nut be thi-own out of the liquor, in which, at this cool season, its presence is so necessary to continue the languid fermentation that alone can be expected when the quantity is small. If there were some hundred gallons in one body under fermentation, the case would be different, and it might be an object to remove some of the yeast, so as to restrain an inordinate action. In cider-making, any degree of fermentation that does more than generate a due quantity of carbonic acid to impregnate . the liquid for the purpose of taste is injurious. It need not possess any intoxicating quality ; an agreeable taste is the only quality to be expected from it ; and this will be attained by fermenting until the excessive sweetness of the apple is removed, and is replaced by the sharpness of the carbonic acid, which just at that period wiU have been generated in sufficient quantity. The pleasing sourness of the maUc acid will remain unaltered; and if the cider, when finished, comprises the three qualities of sweetness, sharpness, and acidity, without a predominance of any of them, the fermentation may be considered to have been of the most successful kind. The criteria by which the liquor may be known to be sufficiently fermented are easily understood. In a large vessel not full a burning candle may be let down; if t burn there, the fermentation is over. As s' w the cider PER ( 5 0 ) PET has ceased to fcrmciit, it is to be drawn off the lees by boring a gimlet-hole at the bottom of the cask, a little above the chimb. The liquor as it runs out is to be received in a clean cask, which when fviU is to be bunged, and may be kept for di-aught. Or, after remaining in this cask for two or three weeks, it may be drawn off and bottled, when it will soon get into good order. If the cider be made in cold weather it will require a longer time to clear ; and the same will happen if there had been a very considerable ratio of crabs amongst the apples. A little dissolved isinglass added will soon clear it ; but this tends to flatten. These, and a variety of minor circumstances can be only learned and provided for by practice. Donovan. Before bottling cider, examine it, and see whether it is clear and sparkling. If not so, clarify it in the same way as beer, and leave it for a fortnight. The night before you intend to put it into bottles, take the bung out of the cask, and leave it so till the next day. The filled bottles should not be corked do\\'n till the day after ; if this is done immediately, they will burst by keeping. Use only the best corks. Champagne bottles are the sort usually chosen for cider. It is customary to wire down the corks, and cover them with tin-foil, just like champagne. A few bottled at a time may be laid to rijDen in a warm place. Should the cider be wanted for immediate use, or for consumption during the cooler months of the year, drop a small piece of loaf sugar into each bottle before corking. Or, which comes to the same thing, .cork the bottles two or three hours after they are filled. In summer, or for long keeping, this practice, however, is inadmissible. Store the bottled cider in a cool cellar ; the quality will greatly improve by age. Cider for bottling should be of good quality, sound and piquant, and at least a twelvemonth old. When out of condition it is unfit for bottling. Mr. Knight, a well-known authority on the subject, states, that in the manufacture of perry the pears are ground and pressed in the same way as apples in the manufacture of cider; but that it is not usual for the reduced pulp to bo allowed to remain any length of time without being pressed. In Herefordshire, and in the counties in its neighbourhood, it has never been the practice to blend the juices of the different varieties of the pear, in order to correct the defects of one kind by the opposite pro])ertics of another. It is, however, Mr. Knight allows, more easy to find the required portion of SHgar and of astringency in three or four varieties than in one ; hence, he supposes, a judicious mixture of fruits affords a prospect of great benefit. The method of fermenting perry is nearly the same as that of fermenting cider. The former, however, does not afford the same indications as the latter by which the proper period of rackinw-oft" may be known. " The thick scum that collects on the surface of cider rarely appears in the juice of the pear, and during the time of the suspension of its femientation the excessive brightness of the former liquor is seldom seen in the latter; but where the frnit has been regularly rij e, its produce vnl\ generally become moderately clear and quiet in a few days after it is made, and it should then be drawn off from its grosser lees. In the after-management of perry the method is the same as that of cider ; but it does not so well bear si+-.ations where it is much exposed to change of temperature. In bottle it almost always retains its good qualities, and in that situation it is alwaj-s advisable to put it, if it remains sound and perfect, at the conclusion of the first succeeding svmimer. Perry is generally thought inferior to cider. Some hold that it resembles champagne more than gooseberry--svine does ; and it is said, when of the best quality, to have been occasionally sold for champagne. Perry and Cider, Wholesomeness of. Perry should be used in moderation by those liable to stomach and bowel complaints, as it sometimes causes colic, especially if it is anywise acid. Either alone, however, or mixed with equal parts of water, it is, when ?f good quaUty, an excellent i-efreshing summer beverage. "Cider," says one writer, "is not so nutritious as malt liquor, but it fonns an excellent beverage for labouring men in the summer months, its acid assisting materially in quenching thirst. Eough Herefordshire cider has been reconunended as an antiseptic in cases ef low fever." Persian Sherbet (a refreshing summer beverage). Boil six or eight stalks of green rhubarb and a quarter of a pound of raisins or figs, cut into slices, in three pints of water. When the liquid has boiled gently for half an hour, strain it through muslin, and stir into it as much lemon or orange sjTup as is agreeable to the taste, and a few di-ops of rose water or orange-fiower water. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Persian Sherbet (another way). Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden sjjoon. Put them into a basin, with a fi-esh lemon, cut into thin slices, and a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, and pour over the m a quart of cold water. Let them remain for three hours, then strain the Hquid through muslin, and squeeze the fruit well to make it yield as much juice as possible. Slix with the juice a pound of refined loaf sugar, and stir imtil the sugar is dissolved; then strain it again, and place the vessel containing the sherbet on ice until it is wanted for use. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for nearly three pints of sherbet. Persian Sherbet, as Sold in the Shops. Mix two ounces of bicarbonate of soda with two ounces of tartaric acid, and four oimces of powdered loaf sugar. Flavour the mixture with thirty drops of the essence of lemon, and add two or three drops of any sHght perfume. Keep the powder in a closelystoppered bottle. "WTien wanted for use, mix a tea-spoonful in half a tumbler of water. Petits Morceaux (for Dessert) . Rub the rind of half a lemon upon foiu- ounces of loaf sugar ; crush it to powder, and mix with it the white of one egg which has been whisked to a firm froth, and six ounces of sweet almonds, aad PET (541 ) PHE six titter ones which have been blanched and chopped fine. Roll out half a pound of good puft'-paste to the thickness of half an inch, spread the mixtui-e u2)on it, and stamp it out in fancy shapes, such as lings, diamonds, hearts, ice. Bake the morceaux on a buttered tin in a well-heated oven, and let them get cold before they are used. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1 s. Petticoat Tails (wt Tails, Petticoat). Pewter, Vessels of. There are three kinds of pewter in common use, called " platemetal," "triple," and "ley." Plate-metal is said to be formed of 112 parts of tin, six or seven of antimony, and a small portion of brass or copper to harden it. It is the best kind, and used for making dishes. The sort termed triple is used for alehouse pots, and is composed of lead and tin, with a little brass. The ley pewter, used for wine and spirit measures, has more lead. Lead being a cheaper article than tin, it is the interest of the manufacturer to employ as much as he can of the former metal ; and, consequently, pewter is apt to con.tain too much of it. Pewter Vessels, To Clean. Pewter vessels may be cleaned by means of silversand and water, or with a solution of potash or of soda to remove grease. Pheasant. The pheasant, almost more than any other bird, requii-es to be hung as long as it possibly can be with safety. When this is done, the flesh acquii-es a delicious flavour, peculiar to itself ; when it is not done, the flesh is tough and flavourless. The length of time that the bird should be kept depends, of coiu'se, upon the state of the weather. In cold, frosty weather thi-ee weeks may be safely permitted ; in warm, damp weather foui- or five daj's vnR probably be foimd suflicient. As a general rule, the bird is ready for the spit when it begins to smell slightly, and to change colour; certainly it should never be cooked until the blood begins to drop from the bill. The hen pheasant is more delicate in flavour than the cock. The old bii'ds may be known by the length and sharpness of the spurs, wliich in the young ones are shoii and round. Youngpheasants are, of course, to be preferred. These birds are in season from October to February, Pheasant (a la Bonne Femme) . Pick, draw, and singe a well-himg pheasant, and put it into a buttered stewpan with three ounces of good beef diipping, and six ounces of ham, fat and lean together, cut iato inch squares. Fry over a gentle fire until the i heasant is equally and lightly bro-wTied all over, then add a table- spoonful of chutnee, and three or four large Spanish onions cut into thin slices. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently until the pheasant is done enough, and the onions are quite soft. Put the bird on a hot dish. Beat the onions over the fire for eight or ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and put them round the bird. Serve immediately. Time, about an hour to stew the pheasant. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. when in full season. Pheasant (a la Suinte Alliance). An epi cure's dish. Take a well-hung cock pheasant draw it, and truss it for roasting. Stuff it with a forcement made as follows : ilince finely the flesh and intestines of two woodcocks or snipes, add to them two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a good pinch of cayenne, a small bimch of savoury herbs finely powdered, and as many chopped truffles as will be required to fill the pheasant. Truss the bird firmly, and roa,st it before a clear fire, basting- liberally with fresh butter. Lay under it, in the pan, a round of toasted bread upon which a little of the stufiiag has been spread, and serve the bird on the toast. BriUat Savarin, with whom this recipe originated, says that a pheasant prepared thus is fit for beings better than men. Send brown gravy and bread sauce to table separately. Time to roast, from three-quarters of an houi" to one hour and a quarter, according to the size. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. when in full season . Suflicient for three or four persons. Pheasant and Macaroni. Pick the meat from the remains of a cold roast pheasant ; carefully remove the skin and sinews, and with two forks pull the flesh into pieces about half an inch long. Weigh it, and put it af*ide until wanted. Place the bones and trinmiings in a saucepan with as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently until all the goodness is di-awn out, and the sauce is so much reduced that it will merely moisten the meat ; then, supposing- that the latter weighs about half a pound, put with the gravy two shallots, a little salt and pepper, half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of sherry. Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with two ounces of butter, and let the gi'avy simmer gently twenty minutes longer. Strain it, put it back into the saucepan, and let it boil up. A few minutes before the pheasant is to be served put the meat into the gravy, let it warm through without boiling, then pour it into the centre of a hot dish, and place round it some macaroni prepared as follows : Throw six ounces of good macaroni into tkree pints of boiling water, add a little pepper and salt, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Drain well, and put it back into the saucepan with a pint of good stock, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, half a pHii; ( 542 ) PHE salt-spoonful o." g atcd nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Let the mixture boil until the macaroni is tender, then add a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan ana ar ounce of butter. Simmer a quarter of an hour lon"er, shaking and tossing the saucepan to mix the macaroni thoroughly with the cheese ; then serve. Time, thi-ee hours Probable cost, Is. 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant, Boiled. -Pick, draw, and sino-e the pheasant, and truss it hrmly, as if for boilino- Cover with buttered paper, wrap it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and after it has once boiled up draw it to the side, and let it simmer as gently as possible until it is done enough. The more gently it is simmered the better the bird wiU look, and the tenderer it wiU be. Put it on a hot dish, pour a small quantity of sauce over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Celery- sauce, horseradish sauce, oyster sauce, white sauce, soubise sauce, or even plain onion sauce, may aJi be served with boiled pheasant. Time to boil half an hour from the time of boibng, for a small youno- bird; three-quarters of an hour for a larger one; one hour or more for an old one. Probable cost of pheasants, about 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for three or iouipersons. Pheasant, Boudins of (a la Richelieu). Pick the meat from a cold pheasant. Carefully remove the skin and sinews, and pound the flesh in a mortar to a smooth paste. Supposing there to be twelve ounces of pheasantmeat, mix with it twelve ounces of pounded potatoes, or eight ounces of panada [see i anada), and six ounces of fresh butter. Mix these ingi-edicnts thoroughly, pound them together, and season rather highly with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolks of five eggs added one at a time, the whites of two, two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and, last 'of all, two table-spoonfuls of boiled onions chopped small. As it is very important that the preparation should be as light and spongy as possible, it is well to test a small quantity by making it up into a ball and poaching it in hot water, so that if it is not of the proper consistency, it may be made so before the whole is cooked. If not firm enough, more eggs should be added. If too firm, add a small quantity of water. Spread the forcemeat out on a dish, and make it up into small cutlets, about three inches long, two inches vdde, and a quarter of an inch thick. Drop these carefully into verj' hot water, and poach them gently for a few minutes. The water should not be allowed to boil, or the boudins will be spoilt. Take thein up, di-ain well, let them get cold, then dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butt('r until they are lightly browned. Serve in a circle on a hot dish, and send some good gravy to table in a tureen. The gravy may be made as follows : Peel and slice four onions. Fry them in butter imtil they are lightly browned, dredge an ounce of flour OA'er them, and pour upon them half a pint of stock, or, failing this, a tea-spoonful of Liebig's ex tract of meat dissolved in half a pint of boiling water. Add a glassful of sherry or claret, the bones of the pheasant broken into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce over a gentle fire for twenty minutes, strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use. Time, four or five minutes to simmer the boudins. To bo fried in hot fat until they are lightly browned. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient, boudins made from the flesh of a moderate-sized pheasant, for six or eight persons. Pheasant, Bi aised, and Rump Steak. Pick, draw, aud singe a pheasant, and truss it as for boiling. Put into it a little forcemeat made with three oimces of finelygrated bread-crumbs, two ounces of fresh butter, the eighth part of a nutmeg grated, and a little salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cover the breast with slices of fat bacon, and fasten them on securely with twine. Though this bacon is not served with the pheasant, it will be found excellent for breakfast if it is boiled two or three minutes before being used. Take two pounds of. good rump-steak, thi-ee-quarters of an inch thick. Lay two or thi-ee slices of fat bacon on this. Rub the inside of a goodsized saucepan with a clove of garlic. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in it, put in the beef, and round it a dozen chestnuts which have been skinned and scalded. Lay the pheasant upon it, breast uppermost, add a scraped carrot, three or four of the outer sticks of a head of celery cut into small pieces, four shallots, a good-sized lump of sugar, a small tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroomketchup. Pom- over these rather less than a pint of boiling stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, bring the contents to a boil, then draw the pan to the side, and let them simmer as gently as possible for quite three hours. Serve the beef and the pheasant on separate dishes, and as hot as possible, with a little of the gravy strained over the pheasant, and the rest in a 'tureen. The nuts should be used to garnish the beef. If an acid flavour is liked, the juice of half a lemon may be added to the gravy, and a little salt put in if necessary, but this will depend upon the quality of the bacon. Probable cost, about 8s., with thepheasant at 3s., and the rump-steak at Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Pheasant, Broiled. Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, and divide it neatly into joints. Fry these in a little fat until they are equally and lightly browned all over. Drain them well, season with salt and cayenne, and dip them into egg and bread-crumbs. Broil over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish, with brown sauce, mushroom sauce, or piquant sauce, as an accompaniment. The remains of a cold roast pheasant may be treated in this way. Time to broil, about ten minutesProbable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant Cutlets. Take two young. PHE ( -5-13 ) PHE woU-hung pheasants. Pluck, draw, and singe 1 them, and cut thorn into neat joints. Take out the bones carefully, and shape the joints into cutlets ; ilatten these with the cutlet- bat, season rathei- highly, and cover them j thickly Avith egg and tinely-grated breadcrumbs. Put the bones and trimmings into a i saucepan, with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a i handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, and as much water as j will cover them. Let them stew slowly, until \ the flavour of the herbs, &c., is di-awn out, tl.eu I thicken the gravy, and strain it. Fry tiie i cutlets in hot lat over a clear fire until they are ' brightly browned all over. Serve on a hot dish with one of the small bones stuck into each \ cutlet. The gravy must bo made hot, and poured j round them. Time to broil the cutlets, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost of pheasants, I 3s. each when in full season. .SufKcient for eight or nine persons. Pheasant, Fillets of. Take a well-hung young pheasant. Pluck, di'aw, and singe it, and then braise the fillets. To do this, cut off the flesh from the breast and wifig in one slice from each side ; this will give two large fillets; and to get three fillets of unifoim size, flatten the minion or smaller fillets, which consist of the strips of flesh which lie under the wings, with the flesh of the merrythought, and any little pieces that can be lifted off. Dip the fillets into beaten egg, and then into rather highly- seasoned bread-crumbs. Frj- thin slices of bread of the same size as the fillets in hot fat, imtil they are lightly browned ; di-ain and di-y them. Fry the fillets also, and when they are equally and brightly browned, serve upon the pieces of toast on a hot dish, with a good gravy poured round them. To make the gravj-, stew +he bones and trimmings of the pheasjint in half a pint of water, with an inch or two of lemon-rind, a pinch of salt, and half a dozen peppercorns. When they have simmered for half an hour or more, strain the gravy, skim carefully, and thicken with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening. Add a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a tea-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, if either are liked ; make the sauce hot, and serve. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the sauce, ten or twelve minutes to fry the fillets. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Pheasant, Flavour of. The pheasant is sometimes domesticated for the table, but the flavour of the bird is decidedly best when in a natural wild state. M. Ude says, " It is not often that pheasants are met with possessing that exquisite taste which is acquii-ed ?nly by long keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept so long as they are in other countries. The hens in general are most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. The flesh of the pheasant is white, tender, and has a good flavour, if you keep it long enough ; if not, it has no more than a common hen or fowl." Pheasant, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Pheasant). Pheasant, Hashed. Cut the remains of one or two cold roast pheasants into neat joints, put them into a cool jjlace, and cover them over until they are wanted. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a stewpan, mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir the mixture quickly over a gentle fire, until it is lightly coloured. Pour over it half a pint of stock or water, and add a glass of claret, a finely-minced onion, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce gently by the side of the fire until it is thick enough to coat the spoon, then strain it, and put in the pieces of pheasant. Let these simmer for a minute or two until they are quite hot, but the sauce must not boil after the game is added. Serve the pheasant on a hot dish, with the hot gravy poured over it. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and cold meat. Suflicient for three or four persons. Pheasant, Mock. When only one pheasant can be obtained, a fine youjig fowl which has been kept three or four days may be trussed and roasted with it. Few people will discover that the two birds served on the same dish are not of the same species. Pheasant Pie. Take six ounces of the cushion of veal, free it carefully from skin and gristle, and mince it finely. Mix with it six ounces of fat bacon also finely minced, six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, three ounces of chopped beef suet, and one ounce of grated lean ham. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, season rather highly with pepper, salt, and gxated nutmeg, and bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg. The addition of three or four chopped mushrooms will be an improvement. Pluck and clean a well-hung pheasant. Cut oft' its head, and divide it in two lengthwise. Bone the bird carefully, and fry the halves in hot fat until they are lightly browned. Drain them well, and put about half the foicemcat into them, then put them close together in their original position. Line a pie-mould, or forai a case,' according to the directions already given {see Paste for Eaiscd Pies). Lay slices of fat bacon at the bottom, and spread half of the remaining forcemeat on them. Put in the pheasant, the remainder of the forcemeat, and a slice of fat bacon over all. Lay on the lid, make a hole in the centre, and bake in a brisk oven. If there is any danger of the pie bui-ning, lay a paper upon it. In order to ascertain when it is done enough, push a trussing-needle through the hole in the centre ; if it penetrates easily, the pie is sufliciently cooked. This pie, if preferred, may be baked in a dish, and the pheasant maj' be jointed before it is put in. Half an hour after it is taken out of the oven pour into it, through the hole in the centre, a quarter of a pint of strong gravy made from the liver. Time to bake, two hours, or more. Probable cost, 6s. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Pheasant, Potted. Pluck, di-aw, and singe a well-hung pheasant. Cut off its head, PHE (544 ) PHE and season it inside and out with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Put it into a dish bi-east downwards, and pour over it five or six ounces of dissolved butter. Cover the pan with a coarse paste made of flour and water, and bake in a moderate oven. When the bii-d is sufficiently baked, take it from the oven, and drain the butter from it. Let it get cold, then put it into a pot breast downwards, and cover with clarified butter. When the butter is set, tie a double fold of paper over it, and store in a cool place. If preferred, the bird can be divided into joints after it is baked, and packed closely into the pan. The advantage of this plan will be that much less butter will be required to cover it than if the bird were potted whole. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost of the pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pheasant, Potted (another way). Pick the meat from a cold roast pheasant, mince it finely, and pound in a mortar to a smooth jjaste ; put the bones into a stewpan with a quart of strong stock, two ounces of lean ham, three shallots, two table-spoonfuls of sherry, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a dozen pepi ercorns. Boil this down quickly until it is reduced to a glaze {see Glaze), then strain through a fine hair sieve, and mix with the meat. Add five or six ounces of clarified butter, and a little salt, and cayenne. Pound these ingredients together, and press the mixture into small potting- jars. Pour over them clarified butter to the thickness of half an inch, and store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost, 4s., with pheasants at 3s. each. Pheasant, Roast. Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of jilicasants. Wipe them with a di-y cloth, truss them firmly, and either lard them or tie round the breasts a slice of fat bacon. Flour them well, put them before a clear fire, and baste liberally. When they are done enough, remove the bacon, serve the birds on a hot dish, and garnish with watercresses. Send good brown gravy and bread sauce to table with them. If the fashion is liked, half a dozen of the best of the tailfeathers may be stuck into the bird when it is dished. Time, three-quarters of an hour to I'oast a good-sized pheasant. Probable cost, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pheasant, Roast, To Carve. Fix the fork in the centre of the breast, and cut slices ROAST PHEASANT. off evenly on either side. Should there be more guests to partake of the roast pheasant than these slices will satisfy, disengage the legs and wings in the same manner as is done when carving boiled fowl. In taking ofl: the wings, be careful not to cut too near the neck ; if you do, you will hit upon the neck-bone, from which the wing must be separated. Out off the merrythought by passing the knife under it towards the neck. Cut the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought of a pheasant are the most highly prized ; but the log has a superior flavour. Pheasant, Salmi of. Roast a well-hung pheasant until it is a little more than halfdressed, then take it from the tire, and when it is almost cold, cut it into neat joints, and carefully remove the skin and fat. Put the meat aside until wanted, and place the bones and trimmings in a saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a sprig of thjTne, and a bayleaf, and stir th(_'se ingredients over a slow fire until they are lightly browned ; then pour over them half a pint of good browr sauce, and a glassful of sherry. Let them siinmer gently for a quarter of an horn- ; strain the gravy, skim it carefully, add a pinch of cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon, and put it back into the saucepan with the pieces of game. Let them heat very gradually, and on no account allow them to boil. Pile them on a het dish, pour the hot sauce over them, and garnish with fried sippets. If there is no brown sauce at hand, it may be prepared as follows : Mince finely a quarter of a pound of the lean of an unboiled ham, and put it into a saucepan, wdth two ounces of fresh butter, a shallot, a large scraped carrot, two or three mushrooms (if at hand), a blade of mace, a small sprig of thyme, a handful of parsley, two cloves, and half a dozen l eppercorns. Stir these over a slow fire until they are brightly browned ; then di-edge a tablespoonful of flour over them, and let it colour also. Pour in gradually three-quarters of a pint of water, and a glassful of sherry, and add a little salt, and the bones and trimmings of the pheasant ; let the sauce boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the tire, and let it keep simmering for an hour and a half. Strain the gravy, and skim carefully. Put it back into the saucepan with the joints of meat, a lump of sugar, and a little lemon-j nice, or Seville orange-juice; heat slowly, and serve as above. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to roast the pheasant, a quarter of an hour in the first instance, or an hour and a half in the second, to simmer the sauce. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the pheasant. Sufficient for five or six persons Pheasant, Sea (v'c Pintail or Sea Phcds mt) Pheasant Soup. Flour a well-hung ])h( ismt 1 itht 1 thickly, put it down to a brisk liK, lud loist it for a quarter of an hour, bisting it plnitifully all the time. Take it fiom the fii'c. and let it get nearlycold ; then take oft' the flesh from the lavast and the upper part of the wings, skin it, and put it aside. Cut up the rest of the bird, and bruise the bones. Scrape a small carrot finely, put it into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, an ounce of the PHE ( 545 ) PIC lean of an unboiled ham finely minced, ii small S23iig of thyme, a bay -leaf , a handful of parsley, half a blade of mace, thi-ee dozen cloves, half a dozen peppercorns, a shallot, and three or four of the outer sticks of a head of eelerj-. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire until they are brightly browned, jiut in the tiesh and the bruised body of the bird, pom- over them a quart of veal or beef stock, and after boiling, stew gently for half an hoiu-, and bo careful to remove the scum as it rises. Strain the sou j, and rub the meat through a tamis or sieve. Mix the puree with the soup, add to it a small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, a glassful of sherry, and the fillets of the pheasant cut into thick slices ; stir over the fire until it is quite hot, and serve. Time, an hour and a half or more. Probable cost, os. Sufl[icient for five or six persons. Pheasant Soup (another way). Roast a well-hung pheasant according to the dii-ections given in the last recipe. Take ofl: the flesh from the breast and wings, skin it, and lay it aside. Divide the rest of the bird into joints, jjut it into a stewpan, pour over it a quart of unseasoned beef stock, let it boil, and simmer gently for thr-ee hours. Strain the soup, and carefully rub the meat through a tamis or sieve. Poimd the flesh of the breast in a mortar until it is reduced to a smooth paste, mix with it an ounce of fresh butter, a heaped table-spoonful of finely-grated breadcrumbs, a large tea-spoonful of salt, a blade of mace powdered, and a pinch of cayenne. Mix this paste with the soup, stir it over the fire until it is quite hot, skim carefully, and serve. Time, nearly five hours. Probable cost, 48. 6d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Pheasant, Stewed. Pluck and draw a M-ell-hung pheasant, and truss it as a fowl is trussed for boiling. Put it in a saucepan with as much hot stock or water as will cover it, and put with it a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, thi-ee or four outer sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen peppercorns, and a pinch of salt. Let the liquid boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises ; then draw it to the side, and let it simmer very gently until the bird is done enough. Take it up, and serve the pheasant with celery sauce poured over it ; garnish with potato croquettes. Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour or more, according to the size of the bird. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each, when in fuU season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pheasant, Stewed with Cabbage. Pick, draw, and singe two pheasants, and truss them as for boiling. Divide two good-sized cabbages into quarters, soak them for an hour, cut ofl the stalks, plunge them into boiling water, and let them boil for ten minutes ; then take them up, di-ain them, press the water from them, and put them into a large stewjjan. Burjthe pheasants in the cabbage, and add half a pound of streaky bacon, one pound of uncooked Bologna sausages, one potmd of pork sausages, a handful of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay- leaf, tAvo carrots, an onion stuck with six cloves, and a little pepper. Pour in as much stock as will just cover the whole, cover the I stewpan closely ; bring the contents to a boil, and then let them simmer gently for an hour and a quarter. At the end of that time, lift out the birds and the meat, and keep them warm in the oven. Drain the cabbage, season with salt and pepper, and stir over a good fir-e until it is di-y. Place it on a dish, put the pheasants upon it, and place round it the bacon, sausage, and carrot cut into slices. Send good brown sauce, or, if preferred, a little poivrade sauce, to table in a tureen. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each, when in full season. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pheasant, Stuffed and Roasted. Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, truss it as for roasting, and fiU it with a forcemeat prepared as follows : Wash the liver of the bird, and fry it in hot fat irntil it is done enough ; mince it finely, pound it in a mortar, and mix %vith it two table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced ham, three mushrooms chopped small, a minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and half an ounce of fresh butter. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with the yolk of an egg. Cover the breast of the bird wdth thin slices of fat bacon tied on secm-ely with twine, and roast before a clear fire. \\Tien it is done enough, serve the pheasant on a hot dish, with a sauce prepared as follows in a tureen: Put a table-spoonful of olive-oil into a stewpan with six raw buttonmushrooms, a clove of garlic, two shallots, and half a tea-spoonful of capers, all finely minced. Add four cloves, a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, another of parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and stir these over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Pour over these ingredients two table-spoonfuls of broth and a glassful of sherry, and simmer very gently for fifteen minutes. Remove the cloves, the herbs, and the garlic, pour in two si oonfuls more of broth, simmer five minutes longer, and skim the sauce carefully. Rub it thi-ough a fine hair-sieve, add a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, heat the sauce once more, and it is ready for serving. If preferred, thi-ee or four tomatoes may be added to this sauce. They should be simmered with the other ingredients until they can be pressed thi-ough a sieve. Time to roast the jjheasant, threequarters of an hour or more, according to the size ; tkree-quarters of an horn- to prepare the sauce. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each, when plentiful. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant, Trussed. The pheasant may be trussed either with or without the head. If without, care must be taken to leave sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back ; if the head, however, is left on, it must be brought round ui dcf the wing, and fixed on the point of a skewer, with the bill laid straight along the breast. In this case the crop must be removed through a slit made for the purpose in the back of the neck. Draw the bird, bring the thigh close under the wing, pass a skewer through the pinion, the body, and the leg, and skewer and tie the legs firmly down. Piceallilli. Piccallilli may be made of almost aU kinds of vegetables that are used for PIC ( 546 ) PIC pickling cauliflowers, white cabbages, French beans, capsicums, gherkins, large and small onions, cucumbers, radish pods, green tomatoes, and nasturtiums. Take equal quantities of each kind. Prepare them by slicing the large sorts, shredding the cabbage, and pulling the cauliflower into small pieces. Put them into a large pan with boiling brine suiBciently strong to bear an egg. Let them simmer for one minute, then drain the liquid from them, spread them out on large dishes, and place them in the sun until they are perfectly dry. Prepare as much pickle as will entirely cover the vegetables, in the following proportions : Boil two quarts of good vinegar with two ounces of bruised ginger, one ounce of whole white pepper, one ounce of allspice, two ounces of turmeric or curry-powder, and two ounces of I shallots. Boil these for five minutes, then mix j two ounces of best Durham mustard smoothly j with a little boiling vinegar, and stir it into the rest of the vinegar, which must not boil after the mustard is added. Let the first heat go off, then pour the vinegar over the vegetables, and when they are quite cold store them in jars, and intermix the spices amongst them. Be careful that the vegetables are covered with the vinegar, and cover the jar with bladder to excbide the air. This pickle must be examined at intervals, and as the vegetables absorb the vinegar, fresh cold vinegar must be added and well stirred in. Additions of various vegetables may be made as they come into season; but it should be remembered that they must be scalded in brine and dried, then scalded in hot vinegar., and allowed to grow cold, before they are put to the rest of the pickle, or they will not kee J. Pickled Meats and Fish. Recipes for the following pickled meats and fish will be found under their respective headings : Bacon Cheeks Beef, Pickle for Beef, Round of Bullocks' Tongues Cockles Eggs Haddock Ham Ham, Pickle for Hamburgh Herrings Herrings (French Method) Irish Salmon Mackerel Mussels Ox Tongue Oysters Pork Salmon Pickle. When meat is to be salted, it shoidd either be put into the pickle while it is warm after killing, or be allowed to hang a day or two in summer, and five or six days in winter, to become tender. Before it is put into the brine the kernels and pipes should be removed, and the meat wiped well with a dry cloth. It is an excellent plan to rub a little dried and warmed salt into the meat, and leave it until the next day, then drain it well from the slime and blood which will have flowed from it, and put it into the brine, which ought to covei it entirely. The meat should be turned and rubbed every day. Pickle for meat may be used again and again if it is boiled and skimmed occasionally, a little fresh salt being added to it. The tub which contains it should be kept covered, either with a lid or a thick cloth, and a cool place should be chosen for it to stand in. IMeat is more tender when cured with bay salt than with common salt : the fonner is the more expensive of the two. Sugar makes, the meat mellow ; saltpetre colours it, but tends to make it hard, dry, and indigestible. Two or three recipes for pickle are here given, all of which will be found excellent. They are suitable for beef, hams, and tongues. Pickle for Beef, Pork, and Tongues. Put two gallons of cold writer into a large stewpan with three pounds of bay salt, half a pound of good moist sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Bring it to a boil, sldm carefully,, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Turn it into a deep pan, and when it is quite cold it isready for the meat. Meat may be kept in this pickle for three weeks in mild weather, though it may be used in five or six days. The liquid in which it is boiled will not be found too stilt to use for soup. The pickle may be used repeatedly. Add one pound of common salt, or half a pound of lany salt, and a pint of water every time the pickle is boiled. Pickle for Tongues (another way). Rub' a handful of salt and another of moist sugar over the tongues, and lay them on a dish in a cool place. Turn and rub them every day for four days. On the fom-th day, put a quart of water and a quart of porter into a saucepan with four ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and two pounds of common salt. Bring the liquid to a boil, and skim thoroughly. Put the tongues in a deep pan, and pour the pickle over them while it is hot, and see that they are perfectly covered with it. At the end of eight days they will be fit for use. The pickle should remain on the fire until it boils. Pickle for Meat. Put two gallons of spring water into a large pan with five pounds of common salt, two pounds of unadulterated moist sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Boil for twenty minutes, and skim carefully. A large round of beef would require to lie in this pickle for a fortnight before it is dressed. The meat will not be so mellow as if bay salt were used. The liquid in which the meat is boiled will be too salt for soup. If preferred, three pounds of bay salt may be substituted for common salt. Add one pound of common salt, or half a i ound of bay salt, and a pint of water every time the pickle is boiled. Pickle that will keep Two Years or more. l ut three gallons of cold spring water into a large pan or copper, and with it two pounds of bay salt, six pounds of common salt, two pounds of moist sugar, and three ounces of saltpetre. Let the pickle boil for half an hour, and skim, carefully, then pom- it into a deep earthen pan with a closely-fitting Lid. When cold, it is ready for the meat. A small ham may lie in this pickle two weeks, a large one thi-ee weeks, a tongue ten or twelve days, and beef, according to its size and the degree ?f saltness desired. When the pickle has been in use eight or ten weeks, boil it up and skim carefully : this operation should be occasionally repeated. The pickle wiU require to be boiled PIC ( 0 7 ) PIC oftcner in hot weather than in cold. Every time it is boiled add to it two pounds of common salt, two pints of water, two oimces of sugar, and half an ounce of saltpetre. Pickles. This is the name given to vegetables or fruit preserved in vinegar. They are used as accompaniments to cold meat, to garnish dishes, and to flavour hashes and sauces. It is generally understood that they can be bought cheaper than they can be made. Nevertheless, there is always a certain amount of satisfaction in using home-made preparations, as by this means the quality of the article can be assured beyond all question, and many ladies take great pride in their store of home-made pickles. A great outcry was raised some years ago about the unwholc someness of pickles, and attention was called to the fact that most of those ordinarily sold were positively pernicious, because the vinegar used in making them was boiled in copper vessels. This evil has now been, to a great extent, remedied ; and it may be reasonably assumed that pickles which are sold by respectable dealers have been properly prepared. At the same time, for safety's sake, the rule should be laid down that all pickles which are beautiful and brilliant in colour and appearance should be avoided, as this is a certain sign that the vinegar used has been boiled in a metal pan. In making pickles, care must be taken that the vegetables and fruit used for the purpose are prociu-ed at the right season, that they are pert'ectly sound, not overripe, and have been gathered on a di-y day. They should be trimmed and wiped before they are used, and not washed, unless they are afterwards to be partially boiled or soaked. The A'inegar must be of the best quality. "V\Tiite wine vinegar is generally recommended, for the sake of the appearance, but it is not so wholesome as the best brown A-inegar. i\Ietal iitensils should never be used in making pickles, as the vinegar acting upon the metal produces a poison. Enamelled or stone vessels and wooden spoons should therefore be used ; and the best method that can be adopted is to put the -sancgar into a stone jar, and heat it on a stove or hot hearth. Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, or unglazed earthen jars, and should be closely cocked, and the corks sealed down, or covered 'with wet bladder. They should be stored in a dry place. As the vinegar becomes absorbed, more should be added, as it is important that the vegetables should be covered at least two inches above the surface with vinegar. If any of the vinegur is left after the pickle is used, it shoiild be boiled up with fresh spices, and bottled for flavouring sauces, &c. It should be remembered that to boil vinegar is to decrease its strength. If it is ?wished to hasten the preparation of the pickles, so that they may be quickly readj' for use, partially boil the vegetables in brine, and let them cool and get quite dry before the vinegar is poured over thfem. The following list gives the best time for making pickles : Artichokes . . July and August. Cabbage, Red . . Aiigust. Cabbage, White . September andOctober. Capsicums, Red, Yel- The end of July and LOW, AND GrEEX . AugUst. Cucumbers French BeaniGarlic Gherkins . Horseradish Cauliflowers . . July and Aug-ust. Chillies . . . The end of July and August. . The middle of July and August. . July. . MidsummcrtoMichael mas. . The middle of July and August. . November and December. Jerusalem Artichokes . . . July and August. Melons (for Mangoes) IMiddle of July and August. Mushrooms (For pickling and ketchup) . . . September. Nasturtiums . . The middle of July. Onions- . . . The middle of July \v +?.; and August. Radish Pods . . July. Samphire . . . August. Shallots . . . IMidsummertoMichael mas. Tomatoes . . . End of July and August Walnuts . . . From the middle of July to the middle of August. To Green Pickles : keep them in hot vinegar until they become so, and keep them closely covered down, or the evaporation of the steam may injure the colour. To make pickles crisp, dissolve a very small piece of alum in the \dnegar. A piece the size of a bean will be sufficient for a gallon of vinegar. Recipes for the following pickles will be found under their respective headings : Artichoke Bottoms Indian Barberries Ladies' Beans, French Lemons Beetroot Limes Brocoli Mangoes Cabbage, Red Melons for Venison Capsicums Mushrooms CAULIFLOAVrR MuSHROOMS IN BrINE Cherries Nasturtium Cranberries Onions Cucumbers Onions, Spanish Fennel Onions, Spanish, ant Garlic Beetroot Gherkins Oranges Gherkins (French Peaches Method) Radish-pods Grandmamma's Roots Grape Shallots Horseradish Tomatoes Hot AYalnuts Pickles, Mixed, Begin making this pickle about the middle of Jlay. Take a large earthen jar wliich will hold two gallons. Put into it a gallon of the best brown \-inegar, and add four ounces of bruised ginger and four ounces of mustard-seed. Put into a bowl a quarter of a pouml of salt, one ounce of groiind black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, two blades of mace finely powdered, a quarter of a pound of unmixed mustard, and two ounces of turmeric. iMake these ingredients into a PIC ( -5 8 ) PIC paste by mixing them smoothly with a little cold vinegar, add them to the vinegar in the jar, and mix thoroughly. Cover the jjan very closely, keep it in a warm place, and stir it every day for a month with a wooden spoon. Gather different vegetables as they come into season, prepare them as for piccallilli [sve Piccallilli), see that they are perfectly dry, and put them into the pickle. When no further additions are to he made, put the pickle into earthen jars, cover closely, tie down with moistened bladder, and store in a dry j lace. As the vegetables absorb the liquid, add fresh vinegar, and stir the pickle with a wooden spoon. I'his pickle must be kept twelve months from the time it is begun to be made before it is used. Pickles, Poisonous. In Accum's wellknown " Death in the Pot," under the head of Foisonoits Pickles, we have the following information as to the greening of pickles : " Vegetable substances preserved in the state called pickles, by means of the antiseptic power of vinegar, whose sale frequently depends greatly upon a fine lively green colour, and the consumption of which, by seafaring men in particular, is prodigious, are sometimes intentionally coloured by metyis of copper. Gherkins, French beans, samphire, the green pods of capsicum, and many other pickled vegetable substances, oftener than is perhaps expected, are met with impregnated with this metal. Numerous fatal consequences are known to have ensued from the use of these stimulants to the palate, to which the fresh and pleasing hue has been imparted according to the deadly formulae laid down in some modern cookerybooks, such as boiling the pickle with halfpence, or suffering them to stand for a considerable period in brazen vessels." " Among the many recipes," says Dr. Hassall, writing on the adulteration of food, "which modern authors of cookery-books have given for imparting a green colour to pickles, the following are particularly deserving of censure, and it is to be hoped that they will be suppressed in future editions of the works from which they are extracted : " ' To Pickle Gherkins. Boil the vinegar in a bell-metal or copper pot ; pour it boiling hot over your cucumbers.' " ' To make Greening. Take a bit of verdigris the bigness of a hazel-nut, finely-powdered, half a pint of distilled vinegar, and a bit of alum powder, with a little bay salt. Put all in a bottle, shake it, and let it stand tUl clear. Pour a tea-spoonful into codlings, or whatever you wish to green.' " One author directs ' To render pickles green, boil them with halfpence, or allow them to stand for twenty-four horns in copper or brass pans:' " To detect the presence of copper it is only necessary to mince the pickles and to pour liquid ammonia, diluted with an equal bulk of water, over them in a stoppered vial : if the pickles contain the minutest quantity of copper, the ammonia will assume a blue colour." Another very simple and efficient method of detecting the presence of copper in pickles is the following : Put three or four drops of the suspected vinegar on the blade of a knife ; add one drop of sulphuric acid, and heat the under surface of the knife over the flame of a candle ; the vinegar in evaporating %vill deposit the copper upon the iron if any be present. Another easy way of detecting this adulteration is to take a clear and bright piece of iron a bit of wire will do and immerse it for a few hours in the vinegar of the pickle. If copper is present, the metal will be deposited in a perceptible though thin crust upon the iron. Pickles, Summer, for present use. Cut equal quantities of young onions, sour apples, and fresh cucumbers into thin slices. With, these fill an unglazed earthen jar which will hold a quart of liquid. Shake in with the vegetables a dessert-spoonful of salt and a teaspoonful and a half of cayenne. Pour in four table-spoonfuls of sherry and four table-spoonfuls of soy, and as much vinegar as the jar will hold, and cover closely until wanted. If it is wished, to make this pickle in the autumn or winter, finely-minced celery may be substituted for the cucumbers. The pickle can be used the day it is made. Pickles, Sweet American. Take seven pounds of damsons, or -ftinesours, four pounds of pounded loaf sugar, an ounce of stick cinnamon, an ounce of cloves, and a pint of vinegar. Lay the fruit and the other dry ingredients, in layers, in a deejD stone jar, and pom- the vinegar over all. Put the jar into a large pan of boiling water, and keep boiling until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved and the juice of the fruit extracted, then put the jar in a cool place. The next day drain off the syrup, boil it, and pom- it over the fruit : repeat this process six or seven successive days until the skin looks hard and the plums clear. Let the preparation stand a week, then take the plums out one by one, place them in jars, boil the syi'up, and fill up the jars with it. When cold, put brandy-papers over, and tie a bladder on the top to keep the aii- out, or the pickles will lose their colour. Pears, apples, peaches, and cherries can all be jjickled in this way, and will be found delicious. A little cochineal in a bag dropped in the jar will improve the colour greatly. If kept in a dry place, they will keep six or seven years. Time, three weeks. Cost varies nearly every year. Pickles, Wholesomeness of. " Pickles," says Dr. Graham, in his " Domestic Medicine," " are merely vegetable receptacles for vinegar, but the vegetable being hardened by the acid, renders it somewhat difficult of digestion, and therefore pickles are not much to be recommended. The pickled onion seems to be among the most wholesome of this sort of condiment." Pickling Jars. Some sensible remarks on this head are given in the " Encyclopaedia of Domestic Economy:" As vinegar is a corrosive substance, capable of dissolving several metals, and likewise some of the glazes of earthenware which contain lead, great care must be taken in selecting proper vessels to prepare and keep pickles in. otherwise dangerous consequences may ensue, from poisonous matter PIE (549 ) PIE beiiif - introduced into the pickle from the action of the acid upon the vessel containing- it. Pickles should never bo made or kept in any vessel of metal, for the vinegar will dissolve copper and produce verdigris a poisonous substance ; and it acts upon lead, forming acetate of lead, another poison ; and neither pewter, tin, nor zinc are altogether safe, to say nothing of the inconvenience of having the vessels corroded. Iron is harmless, but is liable to be corroded by vinegar, though slightly. If covered with a glaze containing no lead it is perfectly safe. The safest materials for pickling- vessels are unglazed earthenware, glass, porcelain, or earthenware covered with a glaze containing no lead, such as stoneware. Take note also that anything that has held grease will spoil pickles. Piedmont Cake. Take four ounces of sweet almonds and eight bitter ones. Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar, putting in haK a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water every now and then to prevent them oiling. "When they are soft and smooth, soak them in haK a pint of cream for three-quarters of an hour, then pass the cream through a jelly-bag, and rub the almond-paste well with the back of a wooden spoon to squeeze as much of it into the liquid as possible. Keep the flavoured cream in a cool place until wanted for use. Prepare two ounces of candied-peel and four oimces of pistachio kernels, by cutting the peel into small pieces, and blanching the pistachios and cutting them into quarters ; then put both aside until required. Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to a cream. Add gradually four ounces of powdered sugar, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a pound of dried flour, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs; and when these are thoroughly mixed, work in gradually three-quarters of a pound more of floui", two m?re egg yolks, and four whole eggs. Beat the paste with a wooden spoon. Dissolve thi-eequarters of a pound of German yeast in a little lukewarm water, and knead it into the batter with the almond-flavoured cream. Butter a large mould, pour in the mixture, and put the pistachios and candied peel evenly round the inside. AVhen the cake has sufliciently risen, bake in a moderate oven until it is lightly browned. "VVTien it is done enough (which may be ascertained by sticking a skewer into the centre : if it can be drawn out dry, the cake is ready), turn it out of the mould. Pie, Christmas. Presents of game are often made at Christmas time by friends in the country to those in London and large towns, and this game will be found to go nuich further if made into a pie than when roasted or boiled. Partridges, pheasants, woodcock, grouse, and snipes may be tbus used. If the birds are small, they may be kept whole ; if large, the legs and wings should be cut oft", and the breasts larded with bacon. Woodcock and snipes should not be drawn, as the intestines, which should be carefully cleaned, are considered a great delicacy. Make some good forcemeat balls, and put them among the pieces of meat. They may be made of the livers of the biKdfi pounded with an equal quantity of bacon, some sweet herbs, bread-crumbs, and three or four chopped truftles. Season rather highly. Line the edges of a pie-dish with, good crust. Put a beef steak at the bottom of the dish, then the birds with the forcemeat balls, place pieces of butter here and there, and strew over the whole thi-ee or four truffles and some fresh mushrooms, both chopped. If the steak is omitted, slices of fat bacon may be laid under and above the meat. Pour a little stock over, cover the dish with a good crust, brush the pie over with the yolk of a beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. MTien the pie is to be eaten hot, make some gravy of a little good melted butter, with the juice of a lemon and a little claret added. This will be an improvement, and will not interfere with the flavoixr of the game. If it is to be eaten cold, lift off the lid just before serving, and place some cubes of savoury aspic jelly on the top. The time to bake will depend on the size of the pie, but it should not be baked too much. Pies. Recipes for the following pies will be found under their respective headings : ? Apple Apricot Australian Beef Beef, Raised Beef Steak Beep Steak and Oyster Beef Suet for Pi-e CRUST Brandy-mince for Pies Bride Calf's Head Carp Carrot Cherry Chicken Chicken and Sweetbread Cod, Fresh Cod, Salt Conger Eel Creamed Apple Crust, Common, for Raised Crust, Dripping, for Kitchen Use Dartmouth Devizes Devonshire Squab DOWLET Duck Dutch Apple Eel Eel, with Tench Egg Egg Mince Fife Fish Fish and Oy'sters Folkestone Pudding Fowl, Mock Stras BURG French French, Raised Fruit for Inv.\lids Game Game and Macaronl Game, Christmas Game, Hunting Game, Perigord GiBLET Godiveau, Raised Goose Grouse Grouse (Scotch Fashion) . Halibut Hare Hare, Raised Herb Herrings Hunter's Icing for Fruit Italian Jelly for, to' Clarify Jelly, Meat foe, Cold Jelly, Meat for, Economical Jelly, Meat fob,. Superior Kidney Lamb Lamb and Currant Lancashire, Raised Lark Lark, Hot Leicester Leicestershire Medley Ling Lobster Lobster and Oyster Macaroni Mackerel Meat (a la Don Pedro) Mince Moor Game Mutton PIE ( 550 ) PIG Olive, Beef Olive, Veal Oyster Partridge Pate de Gibier Pigeon (a I'Anglaise) Pilchard and Leek Pork Pork and Apple Potato Habbit Eaised Ehukarb Rook Small Birds Snipes, Potted Sole SauAB Tench TipPERARY Curry Veal and Ham Veal and Oyster Veal and Sausage Veal and Sweetbread Veal, Cold Veal Olive Vegetable A ENisoN Pastry Yorkshire. Pies, Common Crust for Raised i(see Crust, Common, &c.). Pies, Dripping Crust for Kitchen (see Crust, Dripping). Pies, Extraordinary. A favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers was a j)ie of stupendous magnitude, out of which, on its heing opened, a flock of living birds flew forth, to the no small surprise and amusement of the guests. This was a common j oke at an old English feast. These animated jjies were often introduced "to set on," as Hamlet says, "a quantity of barren spectators to laugh." There is an instance of a dwarf undergoing such an incrustation. About the year 1630, King Charles and his Q,ucen were entertained by the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion Jeffery Hudson, the dwarf, was served up in a cold pie. Dr. Kitchener. Pies, Meat, Jelly for. Break up two pounds of the knuckle of veal, and put them into a stewpan with the knuckle-bone of a ham, or, failing this, half a pound of raw lean ham. Pour over them three pints of cold water, and add a carrot, an onion, half a bay -leaf, thi-ee or four sticks of celery, a handful of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, two cloves, a roll of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a lump of sugar, and six peppercorns. Cover the stewpan, and bring the contents slowly to a boil. Remove the scum as it rises, draw the pan to the side, and simmer gently, but continuously, for five hours. Strain the liquid through a jelly-bag, and let it :stand until it is cold and stiif . Remove the fat, y first scraping it ofl: with a spoon, and afterwards pouring a little hot water over the surface, draining it off immediately, and then wiping off the moisture with a dry napkin. If the jelly has been gently boiled it should not need to be clarified. If, however, it is not quite clear and bright, dissolve it over a gentle fire, and when it is melted, without being hot, mix with it the white of an egg which has been well whisked, with, half a tea-cupful of water, and add the crushed shell of the egg, a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a glassful of sherry. Put the pan on the fire, and stir it briskly until it begins to boil; then draw it to the side, put on the cover, and let it simmer, without being touched, for a quarter of an hour. ; Strain it again through a jelly-bag, and when cold it is ready for use. The bones, necks, and heads of fowls, or the shank-bones of a leg of mutton, if boiled down carefully with an ox-heel or a calf's foot, will make good meat jeUy. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Suflicient for three pints of jelly. Pies, Meat, Jelly for (Economical and quickly made). Put an ounce of gelatine into a cup with as much cold water as will cover it, and let it soak for half an hour. Put a pint and a half of good stock, quite free from fat, into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme, a bayleaf, five or six shallots, half a blade of mace, six cloves, an onion, and a little pepper and salt. Bring the gravy gently to the boil ; then drain the gelatine, stir it in, and continue stirring until it is dissolved. Let the gravy cool ; mix with it the whites and crushed shells of two eggs which have been beaten up with a cupful of cold water. Stir them into the stock, whisk all together until the liquid is on the point of boiling, then draw the s;iuceiian to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for ten minutes. Pass the gravy through a jelly-bag, and it will be fit for use. If the stock is already nicely flavoured, the flavouring ingredients need not be added. A dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and half a glassful of sherry may be stiiTed in. with the whites of the eggs, if approved. The jelly will become stiff more quickly if it is poured out on a large dish. Time, ?ne hour to make. Probable cost, exclusive of stock. Is. Sufficient for a quart of jellyPies, Paste for { ce Paste for Common Pies, Paste for liaised Pies, &c.). Pig Harslet (?? ? Harslet, Pig's). Pig, Roast, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Roast Pig). Pig, Sectional Diagram of Bacon {see the illustration accompanying the article Bacon, To Cut up a Pig for) . Pig, Sucking. Sucking-pigs are in season all the year round, though they are to be preferred in cold weather, and are at their SUCKING PIG. best from the middle of November to the end of December. To be eaten in perfection they should not be more than three weeks old, and should be cooked as soon as possible after they are killed, as they deteriorate in quality every hour that they are kept. Sucking-pig is fattened with milk and whev, with the PIG ( 551 ) PIG addition of baiiey-meal. Some consider the flesh a great delicacy ; others, however, hold it to be too luscious. It is very nouiishing, but not so digestible as might bo supposed. The price of a sucking-pig varies cousideritbly with the season and the demand; thej' may be had sometimes for 5s. or 6s., at others 20s. or 25s. may be asked for them. The average cost is from 6s. to 9s. Pig, Sucking (a la rran(,'aise). Wipe the pig quite diy inside and out, and stuff it with a forcemeat prepared as follows: Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely, nux with it half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, and add a table-sijoonful of chopped parsley, eight sageleaves minced, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and a table-spoonful of milk, if necessary. Sew up the slit securely, and roast the pig until it is three-parts cooked. Takg it down, put it on one side, and cut it up into neat pieces. Place these in a stewpan, barely cover them with a little stock, and add a large Spanish onion finely minced, a dessertspoonful of choiiped lemon-rind, a little salt, grated nutmeg, and cayenne pepper, a bunch of parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Stew these ingredients gently together for an hour. Strain the sauce, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of brown thickening, or, failing this, with half an ounce of butter lulled in flour ; add a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, with the stufling made up into small balls. Stew a quarter of an hour longer, and serve the pig on a hot dish with the sauce poured over it. Probable cost of sucking-pig, 6s. to 9s. Sufiicient for ten or twelve persons. Pig, Sucking, Baked. Prepare and stuff the pig exactly as for roasting. Brush it well in every part with beaten white of egg ; it will then require no fui-ther basting, and the crackling wiU. be perfectly crisp. Serve and dish it in the same way as roast pig, and with the same accompaniments. A sucking-pig is much more easily baked than roasted, and is, in the opinion of the majority of persons, quite as nice. Time to bake a thi-ee weeks' old pig, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 6s. to 9s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pig, Sucking, Broiled (a laTartare). Cut the remains of a cold roast pig into neat slices, freed entirely from skin and gristle. Dip them into clarified butter, and afterwards into highly-seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear fire until they are brightly browTied. Servethe slices on a hot dish, with a sauce, made as follows, in a tureen : Mince a moderate-sized onion very finely, and fry it in half an ounce of butter until it is lightly browned. Season rather highly with pepper, pom- two tablespoonfuls of -inegar over it, and boil all together for thi-ee minutes. Add a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with half a pint of water, and half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat. Boil these for a quarter of an hour. Stir in a table-spoonful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Serve very hot. WTien the shoulders of the pig are left untouched they are excellent broiled whole in this way, and cm-ry or tomato sauce may be served witli them, instead of the above. Time, ten minutes to boil the slices ; half an hour to make the sauce. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold pig, Sd. Sufiicient for foui- or five persons. Pig, Sucking, Currant Sauce for {see Cuirant Sauce, &c.). Pig, Sucking (en Blanquette). Cut the remains of a cold roast pig into neat pieces, freed entirely from skin and gristle, and season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. ISIelt one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and mix with it half an ounce of flour. Add haK a dozen mushrooms cut into slices, and a bunch of parsley, and moisten the whole with half a pint of stock and a glassful of sherry. Simmer the sauce gently until it is considerably reduced, and of the consistency of thick cream, then strain, and put in the meat. When this is quite hot, without having boiled, stir into the sauce the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir this for a minute, and serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over it. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufl[icient for five or six persons. Pig, Sucking, Galantine of. Scald and clean a sucking pig four or five weeks old ; cut oft' its head, spHt it open, lay it flat, and bone it. Make a seasoning, by mincing a dozen sageleaves very finely, and mixing with them two nutmegs finely grated, three blades of mace reduced to powder, and three table-spoonfuls of salt. Spi-inkle the pig aU over with this, roll it tightly, bind it secm-ely with tape, and fasten it in a thin linen cloth. Bring to a boil as much veal stock, or, failing this, water, as will cover the pig, and jjut with it a dozen peppercorns, a clove of garlic, a bunch of jjarsley, and a sprig of thyme. Let the head simmer in this until it is tender. Lift it out, and when it is cold remove the tape and the cloth. Let the pig lie until it is cold, when it is ready for serving. Piquant sauce should be sent to table with it. If hked, the pig can be kept for a week in a pickle made of the liquor in which it was boiled, salted and flavoured with vinegar. Time to simmer, four hom-s or more, until the tape becomes loose. Probable cost of pig, 6s. to 9s. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Pig, Sucking, Galantine of (Superior). Scald and clean the pig, split it open, lay it flat upon a table, and lioue it carefully. The head may be cut off', if liked : if left on it should not be boned. Make as much good veal stu ng as can be spread evenly and thinly over the pig. Place upon this, in layeis, thin slices of tongue, hard-boiled eggs, trulfles, fat bacon, and ham, and cover the whole with another layer of veal forcemeat. KoU the pig tightly, so as not to disjjlace the forcemeat, ice, bind it firmly with fillets of tape, cover with a soft cloth, and sew up securely. Boil as much nicely-seasoned stock as will cover the pig, put with it, if liked, a glassful of sheriy, and sinmier gently until the tape becomes loose. Let the PIG ( 552 ) PIG galantine grow cold in the liqnor in which it was boiled, then lift it out, and hoil the stock quickly until it is sufficiently reduced to fomi a jelly when cold, clear it with white of egg, and pour it over the meat. Some cooks place a weight iipon the galantine until it is cold, and then either glaze it or cover it with hread raspings. Time to hoil the galantine, five hours or more. Probable cost, 12s. to 15s. Sufficient for a large breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Pig, Sucking, Potato Stufllng for (see Potato Stuffing for Goose and Sucking Pig). Pig, Sucking, Boast. Wipe the pig thoroughly, stuff it, and sew up the slit securely with soft cotton. Truss it like a hare, with the fore-legs skewered back and the hind-legs drawn forward. Rub it over with clarified butter, or fresh salad-oil, and put it down, not too near, before a clear brisk fire. Baste constantly, or the crackling will be blistered and burnt, instead of crisp and brown. As the middle part requires less roasting than the ends, it is usual, when the pig is half done, to hang a flat iron from the spit in such a position that it will shade the heat of the fire from the middle. It is well to tie some butter in a piece of muslin, and rah the pig over with this two or three times whilst it is roasting. When it is done enough, cut oS the head before the pig is taken from the fire, take out the brains, and chop them up quickly with the stuffing ; add the gravy which has dropped from the pig, and, when it can be obtained, a cupful of good veal or beef gravy, together with a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. To dish it, cut the pig open, and lay the sides back to back, lengthwise, upon the dish, -wdth one half of the head at each end and the ears at the sides. If preferred, the brains may be stirred into melted butter instead of gravy. Rich brown sauce, tomato, poivrade, piquant, proven ale, bread, apple, and the old-fashioned currant sauce, are all served with sucking-pig. Time to roast, according to size : a three weeks' old pig, two hours. Probable cost, 6s. to 12s. Sufficient, a three weeks' old pig for eight or nine persons. Pig, Sucking, Roast (Dr. Kitchener's recipe) . A sucking-pig is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old. It loses pai-t of its goodness every hour after it is killed ; if not quite fresh, no art can make the cracklingcrisp. To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning to be eaten at dinner; it requires very careful roasting. A sucking-pig, like a young child, must not be left for an instant. The ends must have much more fire than the middle ; for this purpose is contrived an ir?n to hang before the middle part, called a pig iron. If you have not this, use a common flat-iron, or keep the fire fiercest at the two ends. For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf about five ounces ; rub it through a colander ; mince fine a handful of sage {i.e. about two ounces), and a large onion (about an ounce and a half) ; mix these together with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as big as an egg ; fill the beUy of the pig with this, and sew it up ; lay it to the fire, and baste it with salad-oil till it is quite done. Do not leave it a moment ; it requires the most vigilant attendance. Roast it at a clear brisk fire at some distance. To gain the praise of epicurean pig-eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped and delicately and lightly browned, without being either blistered or burnt. A small three weeks' old pig will be done enough in about an hour and a half. Before you take it from the fire, cut off the head, and part that and the body down the middle ; chop the brains very fine with some boiled sage-leaves, and mix them with good veal gravy, or beef gravy, or what runs from the pig when you cut its head off. Send up a tureenf ul of beef gravy sauce besides. Currant sauce is still a favourite with some of the old school. Lay your pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each side, and the ears one at each end, which you must take care to make nice and crisp. When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the sldn long, round the ends of the legs. When you first lay the pigbefore the fire, rub it all over with fresh butter or salad-oil ; ten minutes after, and the skin looks dry, dredge it well with flour all over; let it remain on an hour; then rub it ??dth a soft cloth. A pig is a very troublesome subject to roast. Most persons have them baked. Pig, Sucking, Scalded. A sucking-pig is generally sent from the butcher's ready for the spit, but for the benefit of those who find it necessary to prepare it themselves the following directions are given : Put the pig into cold water direct after it is killed, and let it remain for five minutes, then take it up, and hold it by the head in a large pan of boiling water for two minutes. Lay it on a table, and rub the hairs off vith. a coarse cloth. If they do not come off easily, put the pig in the water another minute. When quite clean, make a slit down the belly,, and take out the entrails, leaving the kidneys untouched. Cut oft' the feet at the first joint, and leave a small portion of skin to fold neatly over the end. Clean the nostrils and ear& thoroughly, wash the pig in two or three waters, and di-y it, inside and out, with a cloth, then wrap it in a damj) cloth until it can be cooked. The feet, the heart, and the liver of a sucking-pig are generally served separately. Pig, Sucking, Stuffed. Remove the bones from every part of a sucking-pig except the head, which should be left entire. Stuff the pig with equal parts of bacon and vealliver cut small, and seasoned with salt, pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, as well as with some sage and basil cut as small as possible. Lay on the stuffing some slices of ham and tongue, dressed a Vicariate, and cut in strips some bacon, truffles, &c. Arrange the skin over these, bring the sucking-pig into as natural a shape as possible, and then enclose it in a linen cloth, with some slices of bacon, and basil, and sageleaves. Put it in a pan with some stock broth, salt and pepper, and dress it at a very gentle heat. Allow it to get sufficiently cold in the vessel in which it is cooked, that it may be compressed between the hands to force out the PIG ( 553 ) PIG liquid inside it. Let the sucking-pig got quite cold, and remove the cloth before sending it to table. Pig, Sucking, Stuffing for. A suckingpig is usually filled with a stuffing prepared as follows : Take half a pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Mix with them a dozen sageleaves, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of salt, Jaalf a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Moisten these with two ounces of clarified butter and the well-beaton yolk of an egg. One onion or more, chopped small, may be added or not, according to taste. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one young pig. Pig, Sucking, Stuffing of Chestnuts for. Peel, scald, and blanch half a hundi-ed chestnuts, and boil them in a pint of milk, with a pinch of salt and half an ounce of butter. AVhen they are done enough, drain and dry them, and mix them with one pound of good pork sausage meat. Fill the body of the pig, and sew it securely. When the pig is filled with this forcemeat, a sauce, made as follows, should be sent to table with it : Peel, scald, and blanch six ounces of soimd chestnuts, and stew them in three-quarters of a ijint of good brown gravy until they are sufficiently tender to be rubbed through a hair sieve. Stir into the pulp half a dozen table-spoonfuls of rich brown sauce, season rather highly with mace and cayenne, and add a little salt, if necessary. Stii- the sauce over the fire until it boils, and serve immediately. A glassful of madeira or sherry may be added or not. Time, twenty minutes to boil the chestnuts for the stuffing; one hour and a quarter for the sauce. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for one pig. Pig, Sucking, Stuffing of Potatoes for. Potatoes mashed with milk, and seasoned with pepper and salt, are sometimes used as a stuffing for roast sucking-pig. Any of the ordinary sauces may be sent to table with this dish. Pig, Sucking, Stuffing of Truffles for. Take one pound of English truflles. Wash and brush them well, changing the water several times, dry them, and cut each one into quarters. Mince half a pound of fat bacon finely, and pound it to a paste. Put it into a stewpan, with the truffles, a clove of garlic, half a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Let these ingredients simmer over 3, gentle fire for ten minutes, when they will be Teady to put inside the pig. When the pig is filled with this forcemeat a sauce, made as follows, should be sent to table with it : Wash, wipe, and pare four truffles, and chop them very small. Put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of thick bro'wn sauce, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and a glassful of sherry, and let them boil for ten minutes. Mix with them half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract, and a tea-spoonful of the ?essence of anchovy. Boil up once more, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. 8d. Sufficient for one ing. Pig, To Cut up for Bacon [see Bacon, To Cut up a Pig for). 36 Pig's Blood. Black puddings are made with pig's blood and oatmeal. The blood of animals, it is to be remarked, is rich in restorative matter, and although when an animal is killed it is usually treated as refuse, blood may sometimes advantageously be used as food. Pig's Cheek, Boiled. If the cheek has been dried, soak it for three or four hours ; if it has been taken fresh from the pickle it will require only to be washed in two or three waters. Put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, bring the M'ater to a boil, and let it simmer gently until tender. Draw off the rind, and cover the outside of the cheek with bread-raspings. Put the cheek before the fire for five or six minutes, that the raspings may set. A bag of raspings may be bought at the baker's, a pint for 2d., or they may be made of pieces of stale bread, which have been di-ied slowly in a cool oven until thej' are brown and hard, and then crushed to powder. Time to boil the cheek, two hours and a half from the time of boiling, if the cheek is fresh ; three hours if it has been dried. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pig's Cheek, Boiled, and Served with Vegetables. Take half a pig's head, remove the brains and tongue, and put it into a deep pan. Rub it well with half a poimd of common salt, and let it lie for three or foui- days, turning and basting twice a day. When it is to be cooked, wash it, and put it into a stewpan, with foiu' quarts of cold water ; bring it to a boil, sldm it well, and put with it a few outer sticks of celery, one or two sliced onions, and a dozen peppercorns. Let it simmer until it is done enough, then di-ain it from the liquid, serve on a hot dish, and send potatoes and boiled greens to table with it. Some cooks like the vegetables boiled with the cheek, and served round it. The liquid in which it has been boiled may be converted into excellent pea-soup. Time to boil the cheek, two hours or more. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Pig's Cheek, M. Soyer's Mode of Dressing. Take a nicely-pickled pigs cheek. Let it boil gently until it is quite tender. Tie haK a pint of good split peas loosely in a cloth, put them into boiling water, and boil them for an hour ; then take them out, pass them through a hair sieve, and mix with the pulp a little pepper and salt, an ounce of butter, and four well-beaten eggs. Stir the mixture over the fire until the eggs begin to set, then spread it upon the cheek, brush over with beaten egg, sprinkle bread raspings on it, put it in the oven a few minutes, and serve. Time, two hours or more to boil the cheek. Probable cost of cheek, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pig's Cheek, Pickled. Split open a pig's head, take out the brains, cut out the snout, and chop off the upper bone, to make the cheeks a good shape. Rub the cheeks with salt, and let them lie for two or three days. Put a handful of common salt, half a pound of bay salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, four ounces of moist sugar, and a pennyworth of cochineal, PIG ( 554 ) PIG in a pint of strong ale for a quarter of an hour. Pour the Kquid, when cold, over the cheeks, and let them remain in it for a fortnight, turning and hasting every day; then hang them in smoke for a week, when they -vdR he ready for use. Prohahle cost of cheeks, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one cheek for eight or ten persons. Pig's Cheek, Pickled (another way). Wash a couple of pig's cheeks, strew a handful of salt over them, and leave them for twentyfour hours. Drain them, and dry them well with a soft cloth. Powder and mix the following ingredients : A quarter of a pound of common salt, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of saltpetre, and haK an ounce of ground pepper. Dry this mixtui-e thoroughly before the fire, rub it well into the cheeks, and turn and rub them ever day for four weeks. They may either be boiled straight from the pickle or hung to dry in a cool place ; if they are boiled at once they require only to be well washed before being cooked ; if they are dried they must be soaked. 'WTien pig's cheeks are cured and di-ied Kke bacon they are called Bath Chaps. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pig's Cheeks, Potted. Take a large pig's head, split it open, take out the brains, and cut off the ears. Let it soak in cold water j for twenty-four hours, then put the cheek, with j the tongue, into a saucepan, cover with cold j water, bring slowly to the boil, and let the I meat simmer gently imtil it is so tender that i the bones can be easily di-awn out. Draw off the skin, if possible in one piece, and while the meat is stUl hot mince it quickly, and i season rather highly with pepper, salt, and j grated nutmeg. Lay half the skin at the bottom of a pan or bowl, put in the mince, and cover with the remainder of the skin. Place a plate with a weight upon it, and leave it until it is quite cold. It ?will turn out in a shape, and should be cut, in thin slices, and eaten with vinegar and mustard. It may be kept in a pickle made of the liquid in which it was stewed boiled with a httle salt and %-inegar. Time to boil the cheeks, two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost of pig's head, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a standing breakfast dish. Pig's Sars. Pig's ears are generally dressed with the feet. They may, however, be stuffed and stewed as follows : Bone an anchovy, and pound it to a paste. Mix with it six ounces of grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of minced veal, four ounces of shred suet, a tea-spoonful of shred parsley, and two or three sage-leaves. Season this forcemeat 'ith salt and cayenne, and bind it together with the yolks of two eggs. Take two or fom- ears which have been already soaked for some hours and partially boiled. Eaise the skin of the upper side, and fiU them with the stuffing. Fry them in hot fat tm they are brightly brownea, drain them well, and stew them gently in three-quarters of a pint of very rich bro-rni gra\y, nicely flavoured and highly seasoned. Serve the ears on a hot dish, with the gravy strained and poured roimd them. If Hked, a i pui-ee of peas can be sent to table with them. i Time to stew, haK an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, pig's ears being generally sold with ' the head. Sufficient for two or three persons. j Pig's Feet (a la Sainte Menehould). Take i two large pig's feet which have been salted, or I not, as most convenient. Cleanse them perfectly, split them in halves, and bind them securely with tape to keep them in their proper position. Put them into a saucepan, with a quart of broth or water, and with them a little pepper and salt, if required a cairot, an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, two cloves, and two or three outer sticks of celery. Let them simmer gently for three hours. Take them up, drain them, di-aw out the large bone, and press the feet between two dishes, until they are cold and stiff'. When wanted for use, dip them into clarified butter, cover thicklj "with highl}--seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire until they are lightly browned all over. Turn them twice during the operation. Serve on a hot dish, with piquant sauce, or Robert sauce, or, if preferred, with a puree of green peas in the centre of the dish. Time to broil, ten minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pig's Peet and Ears. Clean and soak the feet and ears, and boil them in water until they are tender. Split the feet in halves, draw out the bones, and press them between two dishes until they are cold and stiff. Cut the ears into strips, half an inch wide, and set them also aside. "WTien they are to be served, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter, and mix smoothly with it a tea-spoonful of flour. Shce two good-sized onions, and stew them in the mixture until they are tender ; put in the ears, and when they are hot, stir in with them a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard. Tui'n the whole upon a hot dish, and keep it in a warm, place. Dip the feet into clarified butter and seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Put them on the dish, with the ears, &;c., and serve as hot as possible. Time to boil, three hours ; to broil, ten minutes. Sufficient for foui' or five persons. Pig's Feet and Ears, Fricasseed. Take the feet and cars of a pig, which, if not fresh, have been pickled with salt without any %anegar. Cleanse and wash them, then cut them into neat pieces, half an inch wide, and boil them in a pint of milk until they are quite tender. Drain and dry them well, and put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of veal stock, a little salt and cayenne, a blade of mace, a strip of lemon-rind, and a sliced onion. Simmer for a quarter of an hour, then add a piece of bfiCter, the size of a walnut, rolled thickly in flour, and three table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir the hquid over a slow fire unto, it is smooth and thick, and serve the meat on a hot dish, with the s.vuce poirred round it ; garnish with sliced lemon. Time, altogether, one hour and a half. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pig's Feet and Ears Fried in Batter, ? Wash and cleanse the feet and ears of a fullygrown pig, and let them lie in salt for four or PIG ( 555 ) PIG five days. The day before they are to be served, boil them gently in a quart of water, with an onion, a carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, a stick of celerj', and a little pepper and salt. When they are done enough, take them up, drain them, cut the feet in two, lengthways, draw out the large bone, and press them, with the ears, between two dishes, until they are stiff and cold. Two hours before they are wanted, make a batter, by mixing five ounces of flour and a pinch of salt smoothly with a gill of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs to a paste, with two table- spoonfuls of oil; stir this into the flour, and put the mixture aside. Twenty minutes before it is to be used, add the whisked whites of the eggs, and a little more water if the batter is too thick. Beat it well ; dip into it the pig's feet and ears, and fry in hot fat until they are equally and lightly browned. Drain them, and serve on a hot napkin. If liked, a gravy, made of two or three tablespoonfuls of the liquid in which they were boiled, mixed with a little vinegar, may be sent to table with them. Time, three hours to boil the feet and ears ; twenty minutes to fry them. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pig's Feet and Ears in Jelly. Cleanse and scrape the feet and ears, and let them soak in cold water for two or three hours. Put them into a stewpan, with as much water as will barely cover them, and simmer gently until they are quite tender. Take them up, and di-aw out all the bones. Put the meat back into the liquid, with six sage -leaves, chopped small, a table-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, and a seasoning of salt, caj'enne, and powdered mace, and sinimer again until the flavour is drawn out of the herbs and the liquid ia reduced to a jelly. Pour the whole into a shape, and serve cold. Time, three hours to boil the feet and ears by themselves ; one hour with the herbs. ?Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Pig's Feet, Boiled (au Naturel). Scald and scrape the feet of a fully-grown porker, and carefully remove the covering of the toes. Split them in halves, lengthways, and bind them securely with tape in their original position. Put them into a stewpan, with a quart of stock or water, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTne, a bay-leaf, two onions, two carrots, a stick of celery, and a little salt and cayenne. I et them simmer gently until they are tender. Drain them, and draw out the large bones. Put them back into the liquid, and let them remain in it imtil cold. After the feet have been boiled as above directed, they may be either sensed hot, with peas pudding and turnip-tops, eaten cold with -inegar, broiled, or fried. Time to simmer, thrc hours from the time the gra y reaches the boiling point. Sufficient for two persons. Pigs' Feet, Soup of. Take two sets of pigs' feet and pigs' ears, cleanse them thoroughly, and put them into a stewpan, with three quarts of water, a little pepper and salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, two onions, and half a head of celery. Remove the scum as it rises, and simmer the liquid gently for four hours. Pour it out, strain it, cut the meat into dice. lay it aside, and leave the soup to get cold, The next morning lift off the cake of fat which will have settled on the top, pour off the Hquid, free from sediment, return it to the saucepan,' season rather highly vith salt, cayenne, and white pepper, and thicken with flour and butter. Let the soup boil gently for some minutes. Put the pieces of meat into a saucepan, with as much gravy as will cover them ; let them get quite hot, then put them with the soup. Simmer all together for a few minutes, and serve. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pig's Feet, Soused. Take four young and tender pig's feet. Scald and scrape them, and put them into a stewpan, with as much lukewarm water as will cover them. Bring the liquor to a boil, and skim carefully, then simmer the feet gently until all the bones can ' be taken out. Lift them out, put them into a deep pan, and sprinkle salt over them. As the liquid cools, remove the fat from the top of it ; and when it is quite clear, boil a quart of it -wdth the same quantity of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and a blade of mace. Let it boil ten minutes, and pour it boiling hot over the feet. Cover the jar closely. If liked, the head can be soused with the feet. The meat may be eaten cold from the vinegar, or fried and browned, and served hot. Time to boil the feet, three hours. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Pig's Fry. A pig's fiy, which is composed of the heart, Hver, lights, and sweetbread, should be used when quite fi-esh. Wash it well, and simmer it in a little salt and water for half an hour. Dry it, and cut it into slices the third of an inch thick. Dredge these with flour, and season with a little salt, pepper, cayenne, and powdered sage. Fry them in hot fat until they are lightly browned. If hked, a slice of bacon, finely minced, and a chopped onion, may be fried with them. Serve the fiy neatly arranged on a hot dish, with a shallot, finely minced, sprinkled over it, or with the following sauce poured round it : Mince two large onions and one large apple, and fry them in melted butter imtil they are quite soft. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and add a pinch of cayenne, a large pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard. Pour over these a table-spoonful of vinegar, and stir the sauce over a gentle fire for four minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of claret, and servo. Time to fry the slices, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per poimd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pig's Fry (another way). Procure a fresh pig's fry. Wash it well, and dry it, then cut it into sUces the third of an inch in thickness. Butter a baking-dish, cover the bottom with a layer of the lean slices, and sprinkle over them a little powdered sage, minced onion, pepper, and salt. Place sUced potatoes on these, and then a layer of fat slices, with a little more seasoning, and sliced potatoes over the whole. Fill the dish with boiling stock or water, mixed smoothly with a small portion of flour, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve very hot Time to bake, two hours and a half. Probable PIG ( 556 ) PIG cost, 8d. per poimd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pig's Head and Feet in Brawn. Take the head and feet of a fully-grown porker, and cleanse them thoroughly. Prepare them, by splitting open the head, cutting off the ears and snout, remo\'ing the brains and eyes, scraping the feet, and, if necessary, singeing the coverings of the toes until they are loose, and can be taken off; then sprinkle salt freely over the head, feet, and ears, and leave them to drain for twenty-four hours. At the end of that time wipe them all dry, put them into a deep pan, and rub into them an ounce and a half of powdered saltpetre, mi.xed with half a pound of moist sugar ; and add, in a few hours, half a pound of common salt. The following day pour a cupful of strong vinegar over them, and turn and baste them every day for a week. Wash them in one or two waters, and put them into a stewpan, with as much lukewarm water as will cover them, and let them simmer until tender, so that the bones can be easily drawn out from both the head and feet. Cut the gristle from the thick part of the ears. Wipe the meat, lay it on a flat board, and season it equally in every part with a mixture made of a tea-spoonful and a haU' of powdered mace, mixed with a large nutmeg, grated, a saltspoonful of powdered cloves, and a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Put one cheek, skin downwards, upon a board, lay the feet and ears upon it and on the top of the other cheek, and make it as even as possible, by laying the thick part of one cheek upon the thin part of the other. EoU it as tightly as possible, and bind securely with pieces of broad tape. Fasten a cloth over the meat, and sew it up at both ends. Lay it in a stewpan, and put with it the bones and trimmings of the head and feet, two onions, two carrots, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two or thi-ee sticks of celery, and a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Simmer all gently together for two hours, then lift tlie stewpan off the tire, and leave the meat in it undisturbed until the liquid is half cold. Take off the cloth, put the brawn between two dishes, place a weight upon these, and let the brawn lie until it is cold and stiff. Then, and not before, remove the tapes, and serve as required. The brawn should be cut in thin slices, and will be found excellent for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. If liked, the feet can be omitted, and the head only used. Time, two hours and a half to three hours to boil plainly ; two hours to boil after being rolled. Sufficient for a breakfast or supper dish. Pig's Head, Boiled. Take, a pig's head which has been salted by the butcher, or if more convenient, pickle it at home. To do this, scald and cleanse it thoroughly. Eemove the hair, the snout, the eyes, and the brain. Soak it for twenty-four hours, then cover it with one pound of common salt mixed with an ounce of saltpetre, and turn and baste it every day for five or six days. Drain it, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and put it on the fire, skim the liquid carefully, and simmer the head gently for two hours from the time when the water boils. Send it to table with peas pudding, and boiled greens. The liquor in which the head was boiled may be converted into excellent pea-soup. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pig's Head, Collared. Scald and clean a pig's head, and remove the hair, the snout, the eyes, and the brain. Let it soak in, cold water for twelve hours, drain it, and* sprinkle over it one pound of common salt mixed with a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and turn and baste it every day for five days. Wash it, put it into a saucepan half filled with cold water, bring it to the boil, and skim carefully, then simmer gently until the bones can be easily drawn out. SpHt the head open, season rather highly -wdth black and Jamaica pepper and salt, and roll it eventy by laying the thick part of one cheek to the thin part of the other. Put the head into a cloth, and bind securely, and as lightly as possible, with broad tape. Place it in a stewpan, cover with stock or water, and let it simmer gently until done enough. Lay it between two dishes, place a. heavy weight upon it, and let it remain until cold; then tui-n it out of the cloth, and send to table on a neatly-folded napkin. The feet of the pig may be used as well as the head, or one cheek only with a couple of cow-heels. If it is wished that the pig's head should be collared like brawn, use a larger proportion of saltpetre than is directed above, put in wdth thecheeks some pieces of lean pork, and cover the whole with cow-heel. The collared head may, if liked, be kept in a pickle, ma,de of the liquid in which it was boiled, salted, and mixed with vinegar. This pickle should be boiled frequently. Time to boil, two hours or more the first time, two hours the second. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Pig's Head, Collared (a German recipe). Take a freshly-killed pig's head, and split it open lengthways. Singe and cleanse it carefully, and take out the brains. Bone it, without injuring the outer skin, and spread it open, skin downwards, upon a table. Sprinkle salt and pepper upon it, and spread evenly and thickly over it a suitable forcemeat. If preferred,, minced liver can be substituted for the pork, and a few bread-crumbs can be added. Lay on the forcemeat the tongue of the pig, cut into neat slices, and some strips of lean pork, and between these half a dozen strips of bacon and five or six sliced pickled gherkins, and if there is room, two sliced kidneys, with some slices of veal. Cover these with another layer of forcemeat, lay the head upon the top, press the two parts closely, and sew them together securely with soft cotton. Tie the head in a bladder that hasbeen soaked in three or iour waters, and put it into a stevs an, with the bones and trimmings of the head, two calf's feet, and as much cold water as will cover it. Add three or four sticks of celerj% half a dozen shallots, two bay-leaves, a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thjTue, five or six crushed cloves, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Let the water come to a boil, then skim it carefully, and let it simmer gently, until a skewer will pierce the head easily. Leave it in the liquid until it is half cold, then. PIG (557) PIG press it under a weight. "When it is cold and stiff take out the thi-eads, glaze the head, and serve it, garnished with clear jelly cut into dice. This jeUy may be made of the liquid in which the head was cooked boiled quickly down, and cleared with white of egg [see Aspic Jelly). Before sending the head to table it is well to cut a slice off the neck end to show of what the dish consists. Time to simmer, three hours or more. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Pig's Head, Collared (Superlative). Take a pig's head cut with as much of the neck as can be had. Clean it carefully, split it open to take out the brains, and bone it without injiuring the outer skin. Rub it well with common salt, and let it di-ain for twenty-four hours, then put it into a deep pan, and pouiover it a cold brine, prepared as follows : Put one pound of salt and a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a handful of chopped juniper-berries, half a dozen bruised cloves, three bay-leaves, a sprig of thjTue and basil, and two or thi-ee sageleaves. Boil quickly for a quarter of an hour, then put aside to cool. Let the head lie in this brine for nine or ten days, and tm-n and baste it frequently. Take it up, di-ain and dry it, and lay it open, skin downwards, upon a table; spread evenly over it a forcemeat, made of half a pound of undi'essed ham, half a pound of breast of bacon, four ounces of fresh butter, half a dozen young onions, finely-minced, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, with a little cayenne and pounded mace. Pound these ingredients smoothly together. Shape the head as evenly as possible by lajnng the thick part of one cheek to the thin part of the other, then roll it tightly, bind it securely with tape, cover with a linen cloth, and put it into a ste vpan, with as much cold water or stock as will cover it, together with the bones and trimmings of the head and a little seasoning. Let it simmer gently until done enough, that is, until a skewer will pierce it easily. Leave the head in the liquor until it is almost cold, then put it under a weight, and let it lie until the next day. Eemove the bindings, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Collared pig's head is a most convenient dish to keep in the house, as it will remain good for a considerable time in moderate weather. Time to boil, four houi-s, or more, from the time the liquid reaches the boiling point. Probable cost, 1 s. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Pig's Head, Made in the Shape of a Cheese. Take away the bones entirely from a pig's head, and remove the flesh without injuring the skin. Cut the meat in pieces, separating the fat from the lean. Deal with the ears in a similar manner, and mix them with thyme, bay-leaves, sage, and parsley, cut as fine as possible. Add also the grated rind of a lemon, with its juice, and season the whole with salt, pepper, spices, and nutmeg. Place the skin of the head on a dish, and arrange the moat upon it, mixing the fat -and lean together. Add some pork fat, a tongue, dressed a Vicariate, and also some truffles cut in strips. AVhen the skin is filled, arrange it, and sew it round to close it. Now place it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, and put with it some vegetables, spices, salt, and pepper, together with equal parts of water and white wine, and simmer at a moderate heat for six or seven hours till done. Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the meat remain in it until almost cold. Then take it out, put it in a mould or iron saucepan, and place a wooden plate with a heavy weight on it to squeeze the head and flatten it into thcform of a cheese. If preferred, a similar dish to the above may be prepared with the ears alone. Clean the ears, cut them in two pieces, season, and stew in white wine. When cooked sufficiently, arrange them in a mould with alternate layers of sliced tongue, prepared a Vecarlate, and previously cooked. Press out the whole then as flat as possible. Pig's Head, Moulded. Lay the head and feet of a pig, and two calf's feet, all properly cleansed, into a stewpan, A\'ith an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and as much water as will barely cover the whole. Simmer all gently together until the meat is tender, then draw out the bones, and when the meat is nearly cold, cut it into small pieces about the size of a bean, and put with it any remains of dressed poultry, tongue, or meat that may be at hand, first cutting them into pieces like the rest. Strain and skim the liquor, and boil it quickly down to a jelly. Clear it with white of egg, and flavour with plenty of salt and pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Put the minced meat into it, with haK a dozen sliced gherkins, and let it remain until quite hot. Pour a small quantity of the clear jelly into a mould, and bend it round, when it begins to stiffen, so that it may adhere to the sides, and the inside of the mould be evenly coated. Ornament the bottom prettily with beetroot, sliced green pickles, pieces of hard-boiled eg , chopped parsley, &c. Lay three or four tablespoonfuls of the thinnest part of the mince gently into the mould, and when set pour in the rest. Let it stand until the next day. If there is any difficulty in turning the jellied meat out of the mould, tie a cloth, which has been wrung out of boiling water, round it for a minute or two, and loosen the edges mth a knife. Serve on a neatlyfolded napkin. Time to boil, two to three hours. Probable cost of head, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast or a luncheon dish. Pig's Head, Piquant. Take a fresk pig's head. Singe and clean it carefully. Lay it in a pickhng-pan, with a dessert-spoonful of common salt, half a dozen cloves, one or two bay-leaves, a salt-spoonful of peppercorns, a salt-spoonful of bruised juniper-berries, two sliced onions, and half a lemon, thinly sliced. Pour half a pint of vinegar over the whole, let it lie for five days, turning and basting the head and rubbing in the spices at least once each day. Take it up, drain and dry it, brush it over with clarified butter, and place it in a stewpan over a moderate fire until it is lightly browned all over. Pour in the marinade, leaving out most of the lemon, and add a cupful of water. Put the lid on the saucepan, steam the meat gently for an hour and a half, and baste PIG ( 558 ) PIG it two or three times while it is being cooked with the liquid. Put the head on a hot dish. Skim and strain the sauce, and send it to table in a tureen. Time, five days to lie in the marinade ; a quarter of an hour to colour the head ; one hour and a half to steam it. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pig's Head, Roast. Take up a pig's head which has been already boiled until it is sufficiently tender to take out the bones. Shape it neatly, and skewer it firmly. Sprinkle over it some sage-leaves, finely powdered, and a little pepper and salt, and hang it before a clear fire. Baste it well whilst it is roasting. Serve on a hot dish, with a good gravy poured over it, and send apple sauce to table in a tureen. Time to roast, half an hour. Pig's Head, Scrapple of (an American dishj. Scald and clean a pig's head, and remove the hair, the snout, the ears, and the brain. Put it on the fire in four quarts of cold water, and bring it slowly to the boil. Skim carefully, season the liquid rather highly with salt and cayenne, and add half a dozen sageleaves, chopped small. Let the head simmer gently for two hours, then take out the bones, mince the flesh finely, and put it back into the liquid. Stir in as much sifted corn-meal as will thicken the liquid, and simmer two hours longer, until it is of the consistency of thick porridge. Pour it into deep jars, and set in a cool place. \Tien scrapple of pig's head is to be eaten, cut it into slices, and fry these in hot fat for breakfast. Time, ten minutes to fry the slices. Probable cost of head, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four good-sized jars. Pig's Kidneys. Pig's kidneys may be broiled, fried, or stewed, in the same way as mutton kidneys. The skirts may be cooked with the kidneys. Cut them, lengthwise, into slices a quarter of an inch thick, season with salt and cayenne, and sprinkle over them a dessert-spoonful of finely-powdered herbs, of which two-thirds should be parsley, and onethird chives. Fry them for five or six minutes in two ounces of hot butter, and when nicely browned, stir a dessert-spoonful of flour in amongst them, and add, very gradually, a quarter of a pint of good gravy, and a table.spoonful of ketchup. When on the point of boiling, take out the meat, put it on a hot dish, let the sauce remain on the fire for one minute, and pour it boiling over the kidneys. Garnish with toasted sippets. A glassful of light wine may be added to the sauce sr not. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pig's Kidneys, Broiled. Split the kidneys lengthwise from the rounded part, without separating them entirely. Peel off the skin, and pass a wooden or metal skewer through them to keep them flat. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and powdered sage over them, oil them slightly, and broO. them over a clear fire, the hollo \ sidu first, so that the gravy may be kept in when they are turned. Serve on a hot dish, either with or without maitre d'hotel sauce in a tureen. Time to broil the kidneys, four minutes each side. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Pig's Kidneys, Pried. Peel the kidneys, cut them into slices, dip them in clarified butter, and afterwards into a mixture, made of two finely-minced shallots, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thjTne, and a little pepper and salt. Fry them in an ounce of butter until thej' are lightly browned, put them into a hot. dish, and mix with the butter two table-spoonfuls of thick brown gravy and two table-spoonfuls of claret. Boil the sauce, pour it over the kidneys, and serve hot. If no sauce is at hand, take the kidneys uj), mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly mth the butter in the pan, and add a wine-glassful of boiling water, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom-ketchup, a little salt and cayenne, and a glassful of claret. Boil the sauce, and strain it over the kidneys. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost of pig's kidneys, 6d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pig's Liver, Baked. Pig's Hver may be di-essed according to the directions given for calf's liver. It is verj' good prepared as follows : Soak a fresh pig's liver and cut it into slices less than half an inch thick. Boil and mash two pounds of potatoes, and put a layer of them at the bottom of a well-buttered mould. Lay on this a few slices of the liver, with an equal number of slices of fat bacon, and sprinkle over the meat a little pepper, chopped parsley, minced onion, and powdered sage. Put in potatoes again, and repeat until the dish is full, remembering always that the topmost layer must consist of potatoes. Pour half a cujjful of boiling stock or water over the whole, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn the mould upon a hot dish, brown the top with a salamander, and serve. A large handful of parsley, two sage-leaves, two onions, and a teaspoonful of pepper, will season this dish. The amount of salt required must be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Time to bake, two hom-s. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pig's Liver, Baked in a Caul. Wash and soak the liver until it is quite free from blood. Divide it into halves, horizontally, without separating the two pieces, and laj it open on a dish. Sprinkle pepper and salt on it, pour over it two ounces of clarified butter, and let it lie for twenty minutes. Spread evenly over it a layer of forcemeat, a quai-ter of an inch in thickness, close the liver, and wrap it in some pig's caul, or " leaf," which has been soaked in cold water, drained, and di-ied in a soft cloth. Put the roU in a deep dish, with a slice of fat bacon under and over it, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is done enough take it out of its covering, and serve on a hot dish, with the gravy which has flowed from it, mixed wich a Little lemon-juice. The forcemeat may be made as follo ?? ; Mince half a pound of lean ham, and mix with it half a poimd of fat bacon, four ounces of butter, half a dozen chopped onions, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of PIG ( 559 ) PIG powdered thjine, a grated nutmeg, and a little pepper. Pound these ingredients together, and be sure that they are thoroughly blended. Time to bake the liver, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pig's Liver, Fried. Soak the liver of a freshly-killed pig, and cut it into slices less than halt" an inch thick. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over these, and fry them in hot fat Tintil they are brightly browned on both sides. Take them up, put them on a hot dish, and mLx a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with the butter in which they were fried. INIoisten with two table-spoonfuls of boiling stock or water and two table-spoonfuls of claret. Stir the g'ravy over the hie until the sauce is on the point of boiling, add pepper and salt, if required, and pour it over the liver: serve very hot. If liked, one or two sliced onions may be fried with the liver. Time to fry the liver, a quarter of an hour-. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pig's Pettitoes, or Sucking Pig's Feet, Fried in Batter. Make a frying batter as follows : Mix five ounces of flour smoothly with a gill of water and a little salt. Add the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs, mixed with two table-spoonfuls of Lucca oil ; beat the batter for five or six minutes, then put it aside for an hour. It ought to be as thick as custard. A few minutes before it is wanted, stir in the whites of the eggs, whisked to a firm froth. Clean the pettitoes thoroughly. Boil them gently in as much broth or water as will cover them, until they are tender. Take them up, dry them well, split them open, dip them into the batter, and fry them in hot butter until they are lightly browned. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to boil the pettitoes, from twenty to thii-ty minutes ; to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, pig's pettitoes being genei-ally sold with the pig. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pig's Pettitoes, Stewed. Cleanse a set of pettitoes thoroughly, and put them into a stewpan, with the heart, the liver, a thin slice of bacon, six or eight peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, half a blade of mace, and as much broth or water as wiU cover the whole. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, then take out the heart and the liver, and mince them finely. Leave the feet until they are tender they will require to be simmered from twenty to thirty minutes, counting from the time when they first reach the boiling-point. When they are done enough, put the mince back into the stewpan, with a little pepper and salt, a piece of butter roUed in flour, and a table-spoonful of cream. Shake the saucepan over the fire for five or six minutes. Serve the mince in the sauce on a hot dish, split the feet, lay them upon the mince, and garnish vith toasted sippets. The pettitoes are generally sold with the pig. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pigs' Tongues. Trim six or eight pigs' tongues neatly at the root, and rub them well with moist sugar. Leave them for twenty-four hours ; then rub into them a powder, made of four oimces of common salt, two ounces of bay salt, and half an ounce of saltpetre. Turn them daily. They will be ready for use in ten days. If liked, they may be put into sausage-skins, dried, and smoked. Sufficient for one or two persons. Pigeons. Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as possible after they are killed, as they very quickly lose their flavour. Wood pigeons and rock pigeons, on the contrary, should be allowed to hang a few days before they are dressed. Although these birds may be said to be in season all the year round, they are at their best from Midsummer to Michaelmas. In choosing them, it should be remembered that dark-coloui-ed bu'ds are thought to possess the highest flavour, and Hght-coloured birds to be the most delicate, "i'oung birds are, of course, alwaj's to be preferred to old ones. When the legs are large and deeply coloured, the pigeon is old, and will very likely be tough. House pigeons are the best, and wood pigeons the largest. Pock pigeons are inferior in quality to both the others. Pigeons (a la St. Menehould). Mix an ounce of butter and flour smoothly together over a moderate flre. Add haK a pint of milk, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a baj-leaf, two moderate-sized onions, a carrot, and a parsnip, all sliced, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce until it boils ; then put in two plump young pigeons, trussed as if for boiling, and let them stew gently until they are done enough. Take them up, drain them, cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat until they are lightly coloured. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured round them. Time, about half an hour to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pigeons, Braised, with. Mushrooms, &C. Stuff three pigeons with good veal forcemeat, and truss them as if for boiling. Put one or two slices of fat bacon under and over the birds, and place with them, in a pan just large enough to contain them, a large onion fried in hot butter, a broken shank of veal, a bimch of parsley, a sprig of thj me, a blade of mace, a little pepper and salt, and a pint of good stock. Cover the preparation with buttered paper, press the lid of the saucepan closely down, and let the pigeons stew as gently as possible. Take them up, and keep them hot while the gravy is boiling quickly down to a jelly. Glaze tlicm with this, and serve with stewed mushrooms or green peas. Time to braise, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Pigeons, Broiled. Pigeons may be broiled whole, or split open and flattened with a cleaver. They are more easily cooked when flattened, but retain their juice better iE left whole. Pluck, draw, singe, and wash the bird. Dip it in some oil or clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire imtil it is nicelj- browned. Baste once or twice ; and in order to do this put the bu-d on a plate, and with a feather brush it over with PIG ( 560 ) PIG oil or butter. Serve as hot as possible, and send mushroom sauce, brown gravy, parsley sauce, tomato sauce, or piquant sauce to table in a, tureen. Time to broil the pigeon, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for one person. Pigeons, Broiled (another way). Mix an ounce of butter with a dessert-spoonful of dried flour. Add a finely-minced shallot, a saltspoonful of chopped parsle}', and a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fire for five minutes. Truss two pigeons as if for boiling, flatten them without breaking the skin, put a piece of butter and a little pepper and salt inside them, and tie them at both ends. Dip them into the mixture while it is warm, and continue to do so until they are covered with it. Leave them in a cool place for an hour or more, then broil them over a clear fire. Send tomato, mushroom, or piquant sauce to table with them. If preferred, pigeons may be simply dij ped in butter, egg, and seasoned bread-crumbs before they are broiled. Time to broil, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Broiled (another way). To be worth the trouble of picking, pigeons must be ?well grown, and well fed. Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear slow fire ; turn them often, and put a little butter on them. When they are done, pour over them either stewed or pickled mushrooms, or ketchup and melted butter. Gramish with fried bread-crumbs or sippets, or, when the i)igeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the backs or breasts ; season with pepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a teaspoonful of water, and tie them close at both ends ; so when thej are brought to table they bring their sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with grated bread (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if you please) , then lay them on the gridiron, and turn them frequently. If your fire is not very clear, lay them on a sheet of paper well buttered, to keep them from getting smoked. They are much better broiled ?whole. Pigeons, Compote of. Truss half a dozen plump young pigeons as if for boiling. Lard them down the breasts, or, if preferred, cover their breasts with thin slices of fat bacon. Fry them in hot butter till they are equally and lightly browned all over ; then drain them, and put them side by side into a stewpan large ?enough to contain them. Barely cover them with good gravy, and add half a dozen small onions, a dozen button-mushi-ooms, a glassful of claret, and a little salt and cayenne. Let the birds stew gently for half an hour ; then add a large table-spoonful of tomato sauce, and stew a few minutes longer. Place the birds on a hot dish, with the sauce, &c., roimd them. If liked, the bu-ds may be stuifed with veal forcemeat, and a dozen forcemeat balls may be sent to table with them. Time, altogether, about one hour. Probable cost, 6s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pigeons, Curry of. Cut one or two pigeons into quarters, and fry them in butter until they are nicely browned. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside until wanted. Peel and slice three large onions, and fry them in the same butter. Put with them half a dozen chopped mushrooms and half a pint of strong veal stock. Stir them together, add a large tea-spoonful of curry paste and a salt-si oonful of curry powder, and boil aU together until the onions, &c., are quite soft, then rub the whole through a fine hair sieve. Add a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and boU the sauce until it is of the consistency of custard. Draw it to the side of the fire, let it cool a minute, then put in the pieces of pigeon, and let them heat in the hot sauce, without boiling. Pour the whole upon a hot dish, and serve with a border of rice round the curry. A cupful of thick cream will be considered a great improvement to this dish by many persons. A sour apple also may be minced and fried with the onions. When brown thickening is not at hand, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice may be mixed smoothly with a little of the sauce, and stirred into the rest. Brown thickening is, however, so useful that it ought to be at hand in every kitchen. {Sec Brown Thickening). Time, half an hour to heat the pigeons in the sauce. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the cream. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Pigeons, Cutlets of. Divide two or three pigeons in halves lengthwise, by cutting them down through the breast and back ; remove the wing bones, and tiu-n the leg bones inside, so as to shape them something like a chop. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and fry in hot fat until they are done enough. Put them between two dishes, place a weight upon the top, and leave them until they are cold. Mince two small shallots, and fry them in the fat until they are lightly browned. Pour over them half a pint of stock or (failing this) water, and season the gravy with pepper and salt. Boil gently, and skim carefully, for half an hour or more, then strain the liquid. Heat it when it is wanted, and send to table in a tureen. A glassful of sherry or claret may be added to this gravy, or if liked, a table-spoonful of red currant jelly may be dissolved in it. A Tien the cutlets are wanted, dip them in clarified butter, then into bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear slow fire until they are brightly browned. Dish them in a circle, with French beans, peas, asparagus, or stewed mushrooms in the centre. A cut lemon, or, if preferred, a little red currant jelly is an excellent accompaniment to pigeon cutlets. Time to broil the cutlets, five minutes for each side. Probable cost of pigeons, 8d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pigeons (en Matelote). Put some butter and flour into a stewpan, and simmer until they turn brown. Cook in the butter the pigeons cut in pieces, with a few thin slices of bacon. Pour over them some stock broth and white wine, and add some chives, parsley, thyme, mushrooms, and onions fried in butter, as well as salt, pepper, and spice. Boil do vn over a good fire. PIG (501 ) PI+ Pigeons (en Papillotes). Pluck and draw two young freshly-killed pigeons, and split them in two down the back. Season rather highly with pepper, and cover them with a mixtui-e made of the liver finely minced, two shallots, chopped small, half a dozen sliced button-mushrooms, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Lay thin slices of fat bacon over the mixture, and PIGEONS EN PAPILLOTES. enclose each half pigeon in a sheet of thick writing-paper which has been liberally oiled on both sides. The paper must be sufficiently large to enfold the birds, and the edges must be twisted tightly in, to prevent the escape of the gravy. Broil the birds over a clear fire, and serve them in the papillotes. They wiU not require any sauce. Time to broil, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons (en Surprise). Pluck and draw two plump young pigeons, and truss them as if for boiling. Put them into boiling water for a minute to blanch them, then take them out, put in their places two fine large lettuces, and let these boil for fully fifteen minutes. "Whilst they are boiling, make a forcemeat with the livers of the birds, a slice of bacon, two or three leaves of tarragon, two shallots, and a spoonful of parsley, all finely minced, seasoned with pepper and salt, and bound together with the beaten yolk of an egg. Take up the lettuces, press the water from them, open them, without taking ofE the leaves, line them with the forcemeat, and place a pigeon inside each lettuce so as to be hid entirely. Tie the ends with thread, and stew all gently together in as much stock as will cover the pigeons. A bunch of parsley, a carrot, an onion, two cloves, and half a blade of roace may be put into the saucepan to flavour the gravy. When the pigeons are done enough take them up, drain them, and remove the twine. Keep them hot before the fire ?whilst the sauce is strained and thickened with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening. Serve the pigeons in the lettuces on a hot dish, with the sauce poured roimd them. Time, one hour to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Pigeons). Pigeons, Prieandeau of. Pluck and draw four plump yoimg pigeons, and stuii them ?ith a forcemeat made of the livers of the birds, finely minced, mixed ?w'ith an equal qiiantity of finely-shred suet and of finely-grated breadcrumbs, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Season the mixture 37 with salt and cayenne, and bind it together with beaten yolk of egg. Truss the pigeons as if for roasting, and lard their breasts delicately with very slender lardoons. Line the bottom of a braising-pan with slices of fat bacon. Place a thin layer of veal on this, and then the pigeons, breast to breast. Put another layer of veal and of bacon over the pigeons, pour upon them a pint of good stock, and add any bones or trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, together with a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a glass of sherry, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the birds stew gently for an hour. Lift out the pigeons, strain and skim the gravy, and boil it down quickly until it is much reduced. Put in the pigeons once more, and baste them liberally until they are sufficiently glazed. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured round them. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pigeons, Fricasseed, Brown. Take three plump young pigeons; cut them into quarters, and season with a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Put them into a stewpan, with three ounces of clarified butter, and turn them about imtil they are brightly browned all over. Take them up, drain them well, and put them into a clean saucepan with half a pint of nicely-seasoned stock and a glass of claret. Add a bimch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, three inches of thin lemon-rind, five or six smaU onions, a little pepper and salt, and a few grains of cayenne. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the pigeons stew gently for half an hour ; then put with them an ounce of butter rolled in flour, six or eight small mushrooms, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stew for a quarter of an hour longer, then dish the birds : skim the gravy, and ponr it over them. This dish may be varied in several ways. A few veal forcemeat-balls may be boiled in the gravj', or a dozen oysters may be fried and laid over the bird, and the dish may be garnished with sliced lemon, toasted sippets, or strips of curled bacon. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the wine and garnishes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pigeons, Fried. Pluck, singe, and draw two yoimg pigeons, and truss them as if for boiling. Spread a little clarified butter over them, and dredge them well with flour. Lay two or three rashers of bacon in a stewpan, place the pigeons upon these, season with salt and pepper, and turn them about imtil they are nicely browned all over. Add half a cupful of water, and steam them until done enough. Take them up, drain them well, dij) them into some frjTng batter, and let them be entirely covered with it. Fry in hot fat until they are brightly browned, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with parsley, and send the gra y to table in a tureen. The frying batter may be made as follows : Make five ounces of dried flour into a paste by stirring into it half a pint of water. Mix two tablespoonfuls of oil smoothly with the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs, and add a pinch of salt ; mix these ingredients Avith the flour and water. The batter ought to be rather thicker than PIG ( 562 ) PIG cream. If it appears too thick, a little more water must be added some flours require less liquid than others. Just before the batter is used, stir into it the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Time, half an houi- to steam pigeons; ten or twelve minutes to fry them. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Suflicient for two persons. Pigeons, Galantine of {see Galantine of Pigeons). Pigeons in a Moiild of Jelly. Roast two plmnp young pigeons. Prepare them by cutting off the ends of the toes, cleaning and singeing the heads, sprinkling salt and pepper in the inside, and trussing the birds with the heads tied in their natural position, by means of a piece of thread fastened round the neck, the feet being bent under the body as if the birds were sitting. Bake the birds, and be careful that they are equally browned all over. As soon as they are done enough, cover them to preserve their colour. Take a quart of the liquid in which a knuckle of veal or a couple of calf's feet have been boiled, and which forms a strong jelly when cold. Take it up, free from fat and sediment, and boil it ??ath a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three or four cloves, and a little salt, and when the liquid is nicely flavoured let it cool, and clear it by boiling with it the beaten whites and crushed shells of two eggs mixed with a cupful of cold water and straining it through a jelly-bag. Pour a little of this jelly, about an inch and a half deep, into the mould intended for the pigeons. When it is set without being quite hard, put the birds side by side into it, with the heads and backs downwards, and with a sprig of myrtle in the bill of each. Fill up the mould with the rest of the jeUy, which should cover the feet at least an inch and a half, and leave it in a cool place until it is quite hard. Pigeons in a mould of jelly make a very pretty supper dish, where a large number and variety of dishes are required. They should be prepared fully twenty-four hours before they are wanted, and the mould should be kept on ice, if possible. The mould must be turned out before serving. When the veal jeUy is not at hand, a little may be easily prepared as follows : Soak an ounce of gelatine in cold water for an hour, then strain it. Warm a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured stock in a stewpan with a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a glass of sherry. Add the gelatine, and stir until it is dissolved, then draw the jelly from the fire to cool. Whisk the whites of two eggs with a cupful of cold water ; mix this and the crushed shells of the eggs with the liquid. Let it boU ten minutes, strain through a jeUy-bag, and the jeUy wiU be fit for use. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to bake the pigeons. Probable cost, 4s. Suflicient for a two-quart mould. Pigeons, Jugged. Pluck, singe, and draw three or four freshly-killed young jjigeons. Stuff them with a forcemeat made as follows : Mince the livers finely, and mix with them an equal weight of finely-shred suet and of finely-grated bread-crumbs, the peel of a quarter of a lemon chopped small, the bruised yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme and a Uttle salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg-.. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and moisten; them with an ounce of fresh butter, and a wellbeaten egg. Fill the crops of the pigeons with, this mixtirre, and tie or sew the vents securely.. Plimge the birds into boiUng water for a. minute to blanch them ; dredge a little pepperand salt over them, and put them into an. earthen jar, with a handful of parsley, a sprig of thjTne, half a dozen peppercorns, half a head, of celery cut into small pieces, three cloves, a small nutmeg, grated, a glass of claret, and. half a pint of stock or water. Cover the jar either with a closely-fitting lid or with three or four folds of paper tied over it. Put it into, a saucepan of boUing water, which must be kept boiling until the pigeons are done, beings careful only that the water is not so high that it can enter the jar. When the pigeons, are done enough, strain the gravy into a saucepan, stir a spoonful of brown thickeninginto it, and let it boil a few minutes. Serve the pigeons on a hot dish, with the gravy poured over and around them, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. This dish may beincreased in quantity by the addition of a pound of rump steak. This should be cut into, very thin slices, over which a little of th& forcemeat may be spread evenly and thinly. The slices should then bo rolled up, tied with a little thi-ead to preserve their form, and cooked, with the pigeons. Time to boil the pigeons, three hours. Probable cost, exclusive of the steak and wine, 3s. Sufficient for three or fourpersons. Pigeons, Pate Chaud of. Make some stiff paste as fc ' ws: Sift and dry a pound of fine flour, ana 'break into it four ounces of butter. Add a pinch of salt and half a pint of water, and work the whole into a stiff, smootk paste. Shape two-thirds of it according to the directions given for shaping raised pies, fill it with bran or flour, roll out the untouched pieceof paste, place it on the top as a Hd, ornament in any way that may be preferred, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a weU-heated oven. When the paste is done enough, cut out the lid, remove the bran carefully, and fill the pie with stewed pigeons. Put -with them stewed mushrooms, or any other garnish, and pour a little poivrade sauce over the whole Serve as hot as possible. The shell of this pie may be made and baked the day before it is wanted, and put into the oven to heat when the pigeons are ready for serving. Time to bake,, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 5sSufficient for five or six persons. Pigeon Pie (al'Anglaise). Take two or more freshly -killed, yoimg pigeons. Di-vide in two lengthwise, cut off their feet at the first joint, and turn their legs inside close to the pinions. Put inside each half bird a little forcemeat made of the fivers finely minced, -with a little parsley, pepper, salt, and butter. Grease the edges of a pie-dish -with a little lard or butter, and line them with strips of parsley a quarter of an inch thick. Place at the bottom of the dish one pound of rump steak cut into neat pieces, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Lay the pigeons. PIG (563) PIG upon these, breast downwards, and put the yolk of a hard-boiled egg between each two half pigeons. Sprinkle some pepper and salt and a smaU quantity of grated nutmeg over the pigeons, put hero and there upon them an ounce of butter broken into small pieces, lay on the top a small bay-leaf, and pour over the birds a cupful of nicely-seasoned stock sufficiently strong to form a jelly when cold. If there is any doubt about this, a dessert-spoonful of gelatine must be dissolved in the stock. Cover the pie with a thick crust, ornament prettily, brush over with beaten yolk of egg, put three of the feet, properly cleaned, in the middle of the crust, and bake the pie in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s., with pigeons at 9d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pigeons, Piquant. Slice a large onion and put it into a shallow dish with two bayleaves, twenty juniper berries, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Lay two pigeons in this marinade, and turn and baste them twice a day for two days. If the birds are old they will need to remain in the marinade a day or two longer. Take them up, wipe them dry, and lard the breasts evenly, then put them into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and turn them about over a moderate fire until they are brightly and equally browned. Lift them out, stir a spoonful of flour in with the butter, and mix it briskly with a wooden spoon until it begins to colour, then add four ounces of fat bacon cut into small pieces, the hver of the birds, a cupful of stock or water, the strained juice of half a lemon with an inch or two of the rind, and a little pepper, salt, and gr. d nutmeg. Let this sauce boil, then put in the pigeons, cover them closely, and let them stew for half an hour. Serve the birds on a hot dish with the sauce poured round them. Time to stew, haK an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeon Pudding. Line a puddingbasin with a good suet or butter crust. FiU it ?with a pound of rump steak cut into neat pieces and nicely seasoned, and two or three pigeons divided into halves, and prepared as for a pie. Add the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, a smaU lump of butter, and a cupful of rather highlyseasoned gravy. Cover the pudding with pastry, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s., with pigeons at 9d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pigeons, Pupton of. Butter a piedish rather thickly, and line the inside with a highly-seasoned veal forcemeat about threequarters of an inch in thickness. Lay upon this three or foitr thin slices of fat bacon, three plump young pigeons split in halves and flattened, a blanched sweetbread cut into slices, an ox palate boiled tender and cut up smaU, a dozen asparagus tops, as many button mushrooms, and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs. Cover the whole with a layer of forcemeat spread on the top like a pie-crust, and bake in a well-heated oven. Serve the pupton turned on a hi t d ph in a shape, with rich brown gravy poured round it. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 6s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pigeons, Ragout of. Pluck, singe, and draw a couple of young pigeons, cleanse and open the gizzards, and stew them with the livers in as much water as will cover them until they are done enough. Mince all finely, and mix with them their weight in finely-shred beef-suet and grated bread-crumbs. Add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Moisten the forcemeat with a well-beaten egg and half an ounce of butter, and with it cover the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and put these balls inside the birds. Truss the pigeons securely, as if for boiling, and brown them in a little hot butter. Pour over them the liquid in which the gizzards were boiled, and add a sliced onion, a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, a glass of claret, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then strain the gravy, pour it back into the saucepan, put six or eight buttonmushrooms into it, stew a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. A few forcemeat balls stewed for eight or ten minutes in the gravy are a great improvement to this ragodt. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pigeons, Roast. Pluck, singe, and draw a couple of young pigeons, and truss them firmly. Mince the livers, and mix with them two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of fresh butter, or, if preferred, finely-shred beef suet, a shallot finely minced, a tea-spoonful of shred parsley, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Fill the birds with this forcemeat, fasten a slice of fat bacon over the breast of each, and roast before a clear fire. Make a sauce by mixing a little water with the gravy which drops from the birds, and boiling it with a little thickening ; season it with pepper, salt, and chopped jDarsley. Pigeons are sometimes served on a toast, and brown gravy and bread sauce sent to table with them. Time to roast, half an hour. Probable cost of pigeons, 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Roast (another way). Eoasted pigeons require a brisk fire, and must be well done, and at the same time afford gravy when cut into. Eoast the birds, with stuffing in the belly, prepared as follows : Take the hvers and hearts of the pigeons, and about double the quantity of the fat of ham or bacon, and beat these ingredients in a mortar to a smooth paste. Moisten some crumb of bread with milk, then press out the milk through a napkin. Add chopped parsley, grated lemon-peel, black pepper, and salt ; unite these with white and yolk of egg beat together, divide the mass into equal portions, and stiiff the birds. As pigeons possess scarcely any fat, they are often while roasting basted with butter. By way of sauce, melt some butter with a little flour, moisten with veal consomme, and stir in some chopped PIG (564) PIG parsley. Sprinkle the pigeons with a little sauce, and then pour the sauce over them. Pigeons served with Water-Cress. Roast a couple of young pigeons in the usual way. Wash and pick two or three hunches of young water- cress, and dry them well. To do this, put them into a dry cloth, take hold of this by the four corners, and shake the leaves until they are dry. Put them on a dish, sprinkle a little salt over them, lay the pigeons upon them, and poui- brown gravy over. The cresses are sometimes arranged round the dish instead of being placed under the bii'ds. Time, half an hour to roast the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeon Soup. Take half a dozen plump pigeons and roast them lightly. Pick off the best of the meat and lay it aside. Flour the bones well, and crush them in a mortar. Cut into small pieces a large carrot, an onion, an ounce of lean ham, and half a head of celery, and fry these in butter with a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, three cloves, and half a blade of mace. Stir these ingredients over the fire until they are brightly browned. Add the crushed bodies of the birds and four ounces of brown thickening or, failing this, a hunp of butter rolled in flour and moisten the whole with a quart of stock or water. Bring the liquid to the boil, skim thoroughly, let it simmer gently for an hour, then strain the soup, and pulp the vegetables through a tammy. Pour the soup back into the pot, add the flesh of the pigeons, and pepper and salt if required. Skim it again, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about three hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pigeons, Stewed. Pluck and draw two jdump young pigeons, and divide them into quarters. Put these into a stewpan with a little salt, and a small quantity of water, say as much as will three-parts cover them. Place the lid on the saucepan, and let the birds stew gently until they are almost done, then add a pinch of pepper, and half an ounce of fresh butter, and let them simmer again until they are sufficiently cooked. Take them up, thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful of flour mixed smoothly in it, and add two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley. Let it boil, then draw it from the fire, let it cool for a minute, and stir into it a well-beaten egg. Put the pigeons in again to get hot, and serve immediately. The gravy must not boil after the egg is added. A little cream is a gi-eat improvement to this dish, though it may be dispensed with. Time, twenty minutes to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, Is. 9d. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Stewed (another way). Truss four plump yoimg pigeons as if for boiling; cover their breasts with thin slices of fat bacon tied securely on with twine, and stew them in a little veal broth according to the directions given for " Stewed Pigeons." Whilst the pigeons are stewing, prepare a mixture of vegetables, such as French beans, carrots, turnips, and cauliflowers, and arrange it so that they shall be done enough at the same time as the pigeons. Take a piece of the stale crumb of bread, and shape it neatly, making it three and a half inches high, the bottom part four inches square, and the toj) part two and a half inches square. Fry this in hot butter until it is lightly browned all over, then drain it from the fat, and fix it in the middle of a dish with paste made of the white of egg mixed smoothly with a little flour. Take up the pigeons, and lean each one against one of the sides of the piece of fried bread. Arrange the vegetables between the pigeons, so as to hide the bread entirely from view, and ornament the top with a cauliflower, or haK a dozen Brussels sprouts. Pour a little white sauce over the pigeons only, and send a little more to table in a tureen. Time, half an hour to stew the pigeons. Probable cost of pigeons, from 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pigeons, Stewed (another way). Make a stuffing with pigeons' livers parboiled and bruised in a mortar, add bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, pounded cloves, parsley, sweet herbs chopped small, and the yolk of an egg. Fill the birds with this stuffing, and tie them up at both ends. Half roast or fry them, then place them in good gravy or beef broth, along with an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a slice of lemon. Stew the pigeons very gently for twenty minutes, strain and skim off the fat, add pickled mushrooms, hard-yolk-of-egg balls and forcemeat-balls. It is an improvement to lard the pigeons. Pigeons Stewed with Asparagus. Prepare and stew the pigeons as in either of the two last recipes. Cut off the green tender points from fifty heads of asparagus, and divide these into pieces not more than the third of an inch in length. Wash them well, and blanch them in boiling water. When the pigeons are almost done enough put in the asparagus, and simmer again vaaxil they are tender. Time, half an hour to stew the asparagiis. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pige9ns Stewed with Cabbage. Pluck, singe, and draw two pigeons, and stuff them with a forcemeat made as follows : Mince the livers finely, and mix with them an equal quantity of finely-shred beef suet, and grated bread-crumbs. Add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a salt-spoonful of powdered thyme, lloisten the whole with the yolk of a beaten egg. Truss the pigeons firmly, as if for boiling. HaU boil a good-sized white cabbage, and shred it finely. Drain thoroughly, and lay it at the bottom of a stewpan. Place the pigeons upon it, cover them with white stock, put the lid on the saucepan, and stow the whole gently for twenty minutes, then add a lump of butter the size of an egg rolled in flour, and two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Stew a few minutes longer, and serve as hot as possible. The pigeons should be served on a hot dish with the cabbage and sauce round them. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pigeons Stewed with Green Peas, Pluck, draw, and singe two plump young PIG ( 5G5 ) PIG pigeons. Cut off the heads and necks, put the livers hack into the inside, truss secui'cly, as if for boiling, and tie the pigeons with twine instead of skewering them. Cut half a pound of streaky bacon into small pieces, and put these into a stewpan with the pigeons and one ounce of butter. Place them on a moderate fii-e, and move them about luitil they are equally and lightly browned all over. Take the birds up, drain them, make a roux by mixing an ounce of flour smoothly with the fat in the saucepan, moisten with a pint of stock, and stir the gravy over the fire until it boUs. Strain it, and put it into a clean stewpan with the pigeons, the bacon, a bunch of parsley, a a small sprig of thyme, and a pint of freshlygathered shelled green peas, and a little pepper and salt if required. Simmer gently for half an hour, then take out the herbs, and place the pigeons on a hot dish with the gravy poured over them and the peas and bacon round them. Probable cost, 3s. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Pigeons Stewed with. Green Peas (another way) . Prepare the pigeons, and brown them in butter, as in the last recipe. Take them up, drain them, and cut them into halves lengthwise. Put them side by side in a stew jan with two oimces of butter rolled in flour. When this is dissolved, put in a pint of fi-eshly-gathered young green peas, and a table-spoonful of nicelyseasoned veal stock. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the pigeons stew very gently imtil they and the peas are done enough, moving the pan about occasionally to prevent its contents burning. Serve the bii'ds on a hot dish with the sauce and vegetables arranged around them. Time, twenty minutes to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s. Sd. Sulficient for two or three persons. Pigeons Stewed with Mushrooms. Pluck, draw, and singe two plump young house pigeons. Cut off their heads and necks, and truss them with the legs inwards, as if for boiling. Put them into a stewpan with half a poimd of streaky bacon cut into small pieces and an ounce of fresh butter, and turn them about until they are equally and lightly browned, then take them up, drain them, and mix one ounce of fine flour smoothly with the butter in which they were fried. Moisten the roux with a pint of gravy or water, and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and stir the gravy over the fire until it boils, then strain it, and put it into a clean saucepan with the pigeons, the fried bacon, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a dozen button onions. Simmer gently for haK an hour, then take out the herbs, add a dozen small mushrooms, and stew ten minutes longer. Serve the birds on a hot dish, with the gravy poured over them, and the bacon, onions, and mushi'ooms put with them. Probable cost, 33. Suflicient for two or three persons. Pigeons, Stuffed and Roasted. Pluck, draw, and singe two plump yoimg pigeons, and fill them with a forcemeat made as follows : Mince the livers finely, and mix with them the same quantity of finely-sliced suet and grated bread-crumbs. Add a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, a heaped table spoonful of chopped parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme, and moisten the whole with beaten yolk of egg. Truss the buds firmly, tie thin slices of bacon over the breasts, and put them down to a clear fire. To make the gravj', mix the di-oppings from the birds with half a cupful of boUing stock or water. Add a tablespoonful of claret, a little of the forcemeat, season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and thicken the whole with the yolk of egg well beaten. Serve the birds on a hot dish, with the sauce poured round them, and a little breadsauce in a tureen. Time to roast the pigeons, from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Stuffed and Roasted (German method). Pluck and draw two young freshly-killed pigeons. Open, scald, and clean the gizzard, and mince it with the liver and heart very finely. Mix with the mince the criunb of a roU which has been soaked in cold milk and pressed dry, and add a httle salt and cayenne, a shallot chopped small, and a tablespoonful of shred parsley. If the flavour of the onion and the parsley is objected to, a little bacon and a pinch of powdered mace may be substituted for them. Bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg, and fiU the crop with it between the flesh and the neck. The skin must be cut and raised carefully with the fingers, and then sewn or tied secui-ely with thread. Dip the pigeons into butter, dredge well with flour, and season with pepper and salt. Cover them entii-ely with thin sUces of fat bacon, put them into a stewpan, and turn them frequently imtil they are brightly browned all over. Pour half a cupful of boiling water upon them, cover the saucepan closely, and let them steam until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce round them. Time, half an hour to steam the birds. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Stufied and Stewed. Pluck and draw two plump, freshly-killed young pigeons, and truss them as for boihng. Mince the livers finely, and mix with them twice their bulk of highly-seasoned bread-crumbs, half a salt-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, half a saltspoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and the yolk of an hardboiled egg crushed to powder. FUl the birds with this forcemeat, and put in each half an ounce of fresh butter. Lay them breast downwards into a small stewpan, and barely cover them with veal stock or, failing this, water. Let them stew gently irntil they are done enough, then take them up, strain the gravy, thicken with two table-spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cream, and the yolks of two eggs, and season with a Kttle pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is quite hot without boiling, put in the pigeons for a minute to heat, and serve immediately. A few stewed mushrooms is a great improvement to this dish. Time, half an hour to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s., with pigeons at 9d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pigeons Stuffed with Chestnuts, and Roasted. Take a dozen sound chest PIG ( 566 ) PIK nuts. Take off the brown skin, throw them into boiling water, and let them remain for two minutes, then blanch them hke almonds. Weigh them, and mix with every three ounces an equal weight of fat bacon, minced as finely as possible, an ounce of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and a little salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture thoroughly, and moisten with beaten yolk of egg. Stuff two pigeons with this forcemeat, truss them firmly, cover their breasts with a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf, and roast them before a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish, with the bacon and vine-leaves over them, and send nicely-seasoned brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to roast the pigeons, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeons, Trussed. Pigeons need to be very carefully plucked and cleaned, and they should, if possible, be drawn as soon as they re killed. The liver may remain untouched, FI6E0NS TBUSSED. as there is no gaU-bladder in it to embitter the taste. To truss for roasting : Cut off the head and neck, cut off the toes at the first joint, and wash the birds well. Dry them carefully, truss the wings over the back, and pass a skewer through the wings and bod}'. The gizzard may be cleaned and put imder one of the wings. To truss for boiling : Cut off the legs at the first joint, put the legs into the body, and skewer the pinions back. Pigeons, Vol-au-Vent of. Roll out a piece of puff-paste [see Puff-paste) to the shape and size of the dish in which it is intended to serve the vol-au-vent. It should be a little more than an inch in thickness. Make a knife hot in water, and with it mark the cover evenly an inch from the edge all round. Ornament the border in any way that may be preferred, and brush the vol-au-vent quickly over vnth. yolk of egg. Put it at once into a brisk oven. When it is sufficiently risen and brightly coloured, take it out. Take off the marked cover carefully, and scoop out the soft paste from the inside, without injuring the outside. Put the vol-au-vent back into the oven for a few minutes to dry, and fill it with the pigeons and sweetbreads prepared as follows: Divide two freshly-killed young pigeons into neat joints. Put two veal sweetbreads into a saucepan, cover them with lukewarm water, and set them over the fire untU the water boils ; then lift them out, and plunge them at once into cold water. Cut them into neat pieces of imiform shape and size, and bind these securely together with t vine. Put the sweetbreads, with the pigeons, into a stew pan, pour a cupful of water over them, and add an onion, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a slice of fat bacon, half an ounce of butter rolled in flour, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer gently for half an hour, then remove the twine from the sweetbreads, strain and thicken the gravy if necessary, and fill the vol-au-vent with the fricassee. The sauce must be very thick, or it will soften the light pastry. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pigeons with Bice and Parmesan. Stew Tintil tender three or four plump young pigeons according to the directions given for Pigeons, Stewed. Boil half a pound of best Carolina rice in a pint of stock, and add to it, if necessary, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. When it is tender, throw in an ounce of grated Parmesan, and shake the saucepan until the cheese is dissolved. If there is any danger of the cheese oiling, add a little more stock. Put the pigeons on a hot dish, spread half the rice round them, and cover them with the remainder. Brush the rice over with beaten egg, strew grated Parmesan thickly over, and bake in a slow oven until the rice is brightly coloured. The best way of doing this is to spread a layer of salt upon a flat baking-tin, put the dish containing the pigeons and rice upon this, and serve them on the dish in which they are baked. If preferred, macaroni may be used instead of rice. Time, half an hour to stew the pigeons ; about an hour to boU the rice ; threequarters of an hour to bake it. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for foxxr persons. Pike. This fish is foimd in most of the lakes of Europe, particularly in the north. Naturalists have disputed as to whether it is indiofenous in England, but the opinion of the best authoritu-. is tint suflinont proof CMbts of its being a native. The size of the English pike is considerable. Instances have been known of their attaining the length of three feet, and the weight of forty pounds. In Lapland and Russia they have been found eight feet long. The usual colour of the pike is a pale olive grey, deepest on the back, and marked on the sides by several yellowish spots or patches ; the abdomen is white, sHghtly spotted with black ; the mouth is furnished with a prodigious number of teeth. The pike is so voracious that he is often called the fresh-water shark. He attacks and devours all smaller fish, and sometimes falls a victim to his own greed by his inability to swallow a fish PIK ( 567 ) PIK thcat is half engulfed in his capacious throat. It is told of one pike that it swallowed the head of a swan that was peacefully feeding under water, and, not being able to disgorge, both lost their hves. It is a highly proHhc tish, and the multiphcation of the pike is immense in the northern districts of Eussia and Siberia, where they are captured on a wholesale scale, and constitute an article of commerce, being salted and dried for exportation. The names pike and jack refer only to the age of the fish. A jack is a pike which has not attained more than three pounds in weight, or does not exceed twenty-foiu- inches in length. Sir John Sinclair mentions as a fact that ought to be better known, that it is dangerous to swallow the bones of the pike, as they are sharp and of so peculiarly hard a texture that they will not dissolve in the ?stomach. Pike may be plainly boiled, or cut into junks, marinaded, and fried. They may be eaten with any sauce. The roe of the pike is made into a caviare, and in some countries the fish is salted and dried. It was at one time ?a very popular article of food. One pike was equal in value to two house-lambs. It is still considered a good fish for the table. Pike (a la Genevoise) . Pike which has lost its first freshness is sometimes stewed in rich stock and wine, so as to disguise its condition. For fresh fish this mode of cookery is quite unnecessary. Clean the pike weU, without scaling it. Put it into a fish-kettle just large ?nough to contain it, and strain over it as much hot court bouillon mixed with whatever proportion of wine may be wished as will cover it. Set it on the fire, and let it stew gently until done enough. Drain the pike, and scale it thoroughly. Put it into a clean pan with as much of the liquid as will moisten it, and add half a pint of white stock, a little salt and cayenne, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Thicken the sauce with a tea-spoonful of roux, or with a small lump of butter rolled in flour. Let it boil until smooth. Lay the fish on a hot dish, strain part of the sauce over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Court bouillon is a sort of broth which is made to boil fresh- water fish in ; it may be used several times if it is "boiled up every foiir days with an additional pint of water. Each successive boiling wiU make it richer. It is prepared as foUows : Boil a sliced carrot, an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, haK a dozen peppercorns, half a dozen cloves, and a shallot, with an ounce of fresh butter, for ten minutes. Add two quarts of water and half a pint of ?vinegar, and simmer the liquid gently ior an hour. Strain it, and, if hked, before using it, mix a httle light wine with it. This bouillon will be found an excellent foundation for fish sauces. Some cooks pour boiling vinegar over the pike, and let it lie in it for two or three ?days before dressing as above. Time to boil, according to size. A medium-sized pike viU take half an hour. When the flesh wiU leave the bones easily the fish is done enough. Pike, Baked. Take a fresh pike weighing not less than four, nor more than eight, pounds. Wash it thoroughly, and scale it. The best way to do this is to pour boiling water over it until the scales look dull, then plunge it at once in cold water, and immediately remove the scales with the back of a knife. Wipe the fish dry in every part, fill it with a good veal stufiing, or oyster stufiing, or with forcemeat {see Pike, Stufiing for). Truss it in a circle by tying the head and tail together, passing the taU between the jaws. Put it into a shallow circular dish, lay haK a pound of butter broken into small pieces here and there upon it, and put with it a pint of broth or water, or flour and water, a minced shallot, and a little chopped parsley. Put it into a moderate oven, and bake untQ done enough. Baste frequently with the gra\y, and be careful that the pike is gently cooked, or it wiU be dry and unpalatable. When it is done, lift the fish out very carefully, and put it on a hot dish ; then strain the gravy, thicken it with two ounces of butter mixed with two ounces of flour, add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a little salt and cayenne, a glass of sherry, and two or three chopped gherkins. Boil the sauce for ten minutes, pour part of it over the pike, and send the rest to table in a tui-een. If preferred, the pike may be baked without being stuffed. Less time wiU then be required to cook it. Time to bake a moderate-sized fish, thirty to forty minutes ; for a large fish allow one hour to one horn- and a quarter. Suflicient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, uncertain. It is, of course, impossible to give the exact time required for baking and roasting pike, as it varies with the heat of the oven and the size of the fish. When the flesh leaves the bone easUy in the thickest part it is done enough. As pike is naturally a very dry fish, it is important that it should be taken out of the oven as soon as, though not before, it is done. Pike, Baked (another way). Wash, scale, and empty the fish, and dry it perfectly in every part. Fill it or not with forcemeat, and skewer it with its tail in its mouth. If the fish is not stufl'ed, sprinkle a little salt and cayenne in the inside, and place an ounce of butter there. Egg and bread-crumb it twice. Season the breadcrmnbs with salt and cayenne, and mix with them a third of their quantity in shred parsley. Pour a little clarified butter over the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Lay a buttered paper over the dish. Any good fish sauce may bo sent to table with pike dressed in this way. Time to bake, tliirty to forty minutes for a moderate-sized fish. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pike, Baked (another way). Prepare the flesh of a pike as in the last recipe. Dip the slices in clarified butter, and afterwards into highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Put them into a thickly-buttered baking-dish, and lay on them a coating of beaten egg with a spoon. Bake in a moderate oven imtH they are lightly bro-n-ned, then serve them on a hot dish, with lemon-juice squeezed over them. If there is any danger that the fish wiU colour too deeply before it is done enough, lay a buttered paper over the dish. Time to bake, about half an PIK ( 568 ) PIK hour. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Pike, Baked in Sour Cream (a German recipe). Clean a pike weighing three or four pounds, or, if preferred, take part of a large fish, and cut the flesh into neat sHces free from skin and bone. Llince two small onions very finely, and break up two bay-leaves into little pieces. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and lay in it the slice3 of fish, with the onion and the bayleaves distributed amongst them. (Season with salt and cayenne, and pour half a pint of sour cream over the fish. Bake in a moderate oven, and when the pike is three-parts done strew finely-grated bread-crumbs thickly over it, and return it to the oven to colour. Lift the slices carefully into a hot dish, and make a gravy by mbdng a little stock or water, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, with the cream, &c., in the dish. Mix thoroughly. Pour the gravy round the fish, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, uncertain. Pike, Boiled. Wash, scale, and empty the pike, soak it for half an hour in vinegar and water, and skewer it with its tail in its mouth. Put it into a fish-kettle with as much very hot stock or water as will cover it, and add a table-spoonful of salt, a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, and half a cupful of idnegar. Bring it to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer it gently until done enough. The time required for boihng will, of course, depend upon the size of the fish. Lift it out carefully, serve on a folded napkin, and send either Dutch piquante or caper sauce to table in a tureen. Time to boil a moderate-sized pike, haH an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, uncertain. Pike, Boiled (another way). Take a pike weighing three or four pounds, which has been kept in a cool larder for two days. Cleanse it thoroughly, remove the gills, and skewer it in a ring, with its tail in its mouth. Put it in a well-tinned fish-kettle, cover with court bouillon {see Pike a la Genevoisc), and let it boil gently for forty minutes. Lift it from the fire, and leave it in the liquid until the next day. Half an hoiir before the pike is to be served, take it up carefully, drain it, preserve the Hquid, and clean the kettle thoroughly. Put the fish and the bouiUon back into the pan, and stew gently for twenty minutes. Drain the fish, dish it on a napkin, and send caper sauce to table in a tiu-een. Pike dressed in this way may be eaten cold with Maj'onnaise sauce. Of coui'se, if desired, the pike may be boiled in court bouillon and served the same day, but the taste of a fish thus dressed is not to be compared with one which has been allowed to soak in the Hquid for several hours. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, uncertain. Pike, Cold, Re-dressed. Take the remains of a dressed pike, and cut the flesh into neat slices. Season with salt and cayenne, and fry in hot fat until the slices are lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and dish them neatly. Send to table on a hot dish, with a sauce prepared as foUows: Mis smoothly in a stewpan two oimces of fresh butter with an ounce of flour. Add a httle pepper and salt, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, a dessertspoonful of strained lemon- juice, and a tablespoonful of shred parsley. Pour in half a pint of milk, and stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boihng. Just before sending to table, stir half an oimce of butter into it until it is dissolved. Time, ten minutes to fry the sHces. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pike, Crimped. Take a very fresh pike of a good size. Cleanse and scale it, and cut it up as soon as possible after it is dead into shoes about half an inch thick. Lay these in very cold spring water to crimp them. Put them into boiling salted water, and let them boil gently until they are done enough. Take them up immediately, and serve on a hot dish, with any of the sauces recommended in the recipe, Pike, Sauces for. SHces of pike crimped in this way may be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried as weU as boiled. They wHl be foimd exceUent. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, imcertain. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pike, Dressing of. The pike is at its best from September to March. Although it is frequently served boiled and therefore directions are here given for boHing it it is much better baked or roasted. The roe should always be removed when the fish is cleaned, as it is a strong purgative. Pike is best for baking and boihng when it weighs from three to eight pounds, and for frying when it is quite small, weighing about two pounds. A pike which is too large to be dressed all at once may be divided. The head and tail may be baked or boiled, and the middle cut into thin sHces, crimped, and fried. Pike, Gravy for [see Gravy for Pike). Pike (Isaac Walton's mode of dressing). ' ' Fhst open your pike at the giUs, and, if need be, cut also a Httle sHt towards the beUy. Out of these take his guts, and keep his Hver, which you are to shred very smaU, with thyme, sweet marjoram, and a little winter savory ; to these put some pickled oysters and some anchovies, two or three, both these last whole, for the anchovies will melt and the oysters should not ; to these you must add also a pound of sweet butter, which you are to mix with the herbs that are shred, and let them aU be well salted. If the pike be more than a yard long, then you may put into these herbs more than a pound, or if he be less, then less butter wiH sufiice ; these being thus mixed with a blade or two of mace, must be put into the pike's beUy; and then his beUy so sewed up as to keep all the butter in the belly, if it be possible ; if not, then as much as you possibly can. But take not ofl: the scales. Then you are to thrust the spit through his mouth, out at his tail. And then take four, or five, or six spHt sticks or very thin laths, and a convenient quantity of tape or fiUeting ; these laths are to be tied round about the pike's body from his head to his tail, PIK ( 5G9 ) PIK and the tape tied somewhat thick, to prevent his breaking or falling oft' from the spit. Let him be roasted very leisui-ely, and often basted with claret inne, and anchovies and butter mixed together, and also with what moisture falls from him into the pan. A Tien you have roasted him sufficiently, you are to hold imder him, when you unwind or cut the tape that ties hmi, such a dish as you j ropose to eat him out of, and let him fall into it, with the sauce that is roasted in his belly, and by this means the pike will be kept unbroken and complete. Then, to the sauce which was within, and also that sauce in the pan, you are to add a fit quantity of the best butter, and to squeeze the juice of three or four oranges. Lastly, you may either put it into the pike, with the oysters, two cloves of garhc, and take it whole out when the pike is cut off the spit ; or to give the sauce a haut gout, let the dish into which you let the pike fall be rubbed with it ; the using or not using of this garlic is left to [your discretion. This dish of meat," says honest Isaac to his companion, " is too good for any but anglers, or very honest men ; and I trust you will prove both, and, therefore, I have trusted you with this secret." Pike, Larded and Baked. Clean and lard a pike according to the directions already given. Stuff it or not, and skewer it with its tail in its mouth. Butter a baking-dish, lay the fish in it, season with salt and cayenne, and pour in haK a pint or more of fliour and water. Lay little pieces of butter here and there upon the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is half done strew highly seasoned bread-crinnbs over it, baste occasionally, and bake until it is lightly browned. When it is done enough, lift it carefully on a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon- juice over it, and send piquante, Dutch, or caper sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, thirty to forty minutes for a moderate-sized fish. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pike, Larded and Roasted. Scale and cleanse a moderate-sized pike. Remove the gills, empty the fish, and lard it thicklj' over with strips of fresh bacon. Fill it with a good veal forcemeat, and sew the body up securely with soft cotton. Butter a paper thickly, cover it with sweet herbs and a little pepper and salt. Wrap the fish in this, lay it in a cradle-spit, and baste with butter. Serve on a hot dish, and send piquante or caper sauce to table in a tureen. If preferred, the pike may be roasted in this way without being larded. Time to roast, twenty-five to thirtyfivo minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pike, Matelote Sauce for. Put a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan, and place it over a quick fire. When it has dissolved, and is beginning to colour, put with it two ounces of fresh butter and a quarter of a hundred of small 1)utton-onions. Shake these over the fire iintil they are brown, then add a dessert-spoonful of flour, a glass of claret, and, gradually, a pint of water or stock. Stir the sauce till it boils, then put with it a bunch of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful o? pepper, and a lump of sugar. Simmer gently, and skim carefully until the sauce is thick and smooth, and the flavoiu- is drawn out of the herbs ; then stir into it a table-spoonful of essence of anchovj half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat, and two or three drops of browning if the sauce is not sufficiently coloured. A few oysters or mushrooms will improve this sauce. Time to simmer, half an hour-. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for a large pike. Pike, Potted. Cleanse and scale the fish, cut ofl; the head and tail, split it open aU the way down, and take out the bones. Wipe it dry, sprinkle bay salt and cayenne over the inside, and roll it tightly. Put it into a jar, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon it. Lay a buttered paper over it in the oven, and bake in a moderate oven until it is done enough. Take it up, drain it, and when it is cold put it into a pot just large enough to contain it, and cover with clarified butter. Time to bake, according to the size : thirty to forty minutes for a moderate-sized fish ; one hour or more for a large one. Probable cost, uncertain. Pike, Sauces for. Plain melted butter, brown caper sauce, Dutch sauce, piquant sauce, or anchovy sauce may all be served with pike. Or, if preferred, a sauce may be used prepared as follows ; Mix a small tea-spoonful of flour with as much water as will make it into a smooth paste. Stir this into six ounces of clarified butter. Add a quarter of a pint of milk or cream and a small anchovy which has been freed from skin and bone and chopped small. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boiling, then add a table-spoonful of Indian soy, and a little salt and cayenne if necessary. Just before sending the sauce to table, stir into it a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Time, five minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, lOd., if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pike, Sea. "It is an opinion," says Mr. Donovan, " amongst the fishermen, that the shoals of mackerel arrive on the shores of this country under escort of another kind of fish called the sea-pike, a most singular-looking creature. This is sometimes brought to market, and it is citrious that its flavour very much. resembles that of the mackerel, but in my opinion it is superior. Its elongated, slender, and pointed head more resembles the long bill of a snijje than the head of a fish. When the fish measures twenty-one inches from snout to tail, the head and bill together measure six inches, and the bill three inches and a half in length. This bill or head is very slender, the upper jaw, as it may be called, being somewhat horny. Both jaws are thickly planted with minute teeth as sharp as needles. This biU or beak is supposed to be its weapon of protection to the mackerel, but is too soft to act as such. In its general appearance this fish ia like an eel, but is not so round, its sides being somewhat flattened. The colour is a handsome bluish-grey on the back, with splendid silvery PIK (570) PIK sides. When the length, is twenty-one inches the greatest girth is four-, and its weight five ounces and a half. Its eye is large for the size of the fish. A singular property of the backbone is that when boiled the colour becomes green." Pike, Seasoned (German recipe). Scale and wash a moderate-sized pike, take out the gills, then pick the flesh off the bone, leaving it entire. Mince the flesh finely, and mix with it a little salt and cayenne, some grated nutmeg, and a chopped onion. Put it into a saucepan ?with a quarter of a pound of butter and a cupful of bread-crumbs, and stir the mixture over the fire until the fish is cooked without being browned. Bind it together with beaten egg. It should be rather stiff than otherwise. Lay the bone of the pike in a thickly-buttered baking-dish. Cover with the seasoned mince, and restore it as nearly as possible to its original shape. Brush over with beaten egg, strew grated bread-crumbs over it, and lay upon it here and there little pieces of butter. Cover the head and tail with buttered paper, to keep them from browning before the rest of the fish is done, and bake in a moderate oven. Send brown caper, piquante, or Dutch sauce to table with this dish. Time to bake, until the fish is lightly browned all over, say about half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. SufiScient for four or five persons. Pike, Stewed. Clean and scale a pike ?weighing about four pounds, and cut it into slices three-quarters of an inch thick. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan. Put with it a shallot and a small onion chopped small, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, two cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Shake these ingredients over the fire for five or six minutes, then pour over them half a pint of stock or water, a glassful of claret, and a glassful of vinegar. Lay the fish in the stewpan, cover closely, and let it simmer until done enough. Take it up, and lay it on a hot dish. Thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter, stir into it a tablespoonful of bruised capers, let it boU a minute, and pour it over the fish. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable *ost, uncertain. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pike, Stewed in Gravy. Wash and cleanse a pike, and lard it thickly with bacon. Put it in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, and with slices of veal and bacon under and over it, cover closely, and let it steam gently ior a quarter of an hour. Pour upon it half a pint of gi-avy and a glass of wine, and 'let it simmer until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the gravy in which the fish was stewed poured around it. Time to stew, thirty to forty minutes, according to size. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Pike, Stuffing for. Take asmanyfinelygrated bread-crumbs as vidll fiU the body of the pike two-thirds full. Make up the other thii-d with finely-shred beef-suet, and add a liberal seasoning of pepper and salt, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, the rind of half a lemon finely-minced, and a tea-spoonful of fennel and chervil. Moisten the mixture with the yolks of one or two eggs. Wlien mushrooms are in season, half a dozen button-mushrooms may be minced and added to the rest. Cr beard and mince a dozen oysters. Mix with them four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, three ounces of shred suet, a dessert-spoonful of minced savoury herbs, and a little salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Moisten the whole with the yolk of an egg and the liquor from the oysters, and mix the ingredients till they form a smooth paste. The body of the pike should be (Wiped dry with a soft cloth before the stuffing is put into it, and ,it should then be sewed up securely with soft cotton. When a larger quantity of stuffing has been made than is required to fill the fish, it may be made into cakes, which should be fried in butter, and used for garnishing. Pike, To Cook (an excellent way). Take two fish, each weighing from six to eight pounds ; scale and empty them ; dissect out the flesh and bone, leaving the head and tail attached to the skin. Pick off the flesh from the bodies of the fish, avoiding aU the small forked bones, which are exceedingly niunerous. This being done, beat the separated flesh in a mortar along with three anchovies, the yolks of four eggs, and a pound of butter; add a good quantity of chopped parsley, a few sweet herbs, minced shallots, black pepper, and salt, and form the whole into a mass with white and yolk of egg. Place this in the skin of one of the fish, and sew it up neatly. Prick the skin with a sharp fork in a few places, and roast till done before a brisk fire. Put into the dripping-pan a pint or a pint and a half of cider, with which the fish is to be frequently basted. What remains will, with the addition of a little cayenne, be the projjer sauce for the fish. Time, one hour to roast before the fire. Pike, "White Sauce for, Mince a shallot finely, and put it into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of sherry and one of vinegar. 'Let it simmer gently for ten minutes, then add a quarter of a pint of milk or cream, a little grated nutmeg, a little salt and cayenne, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it is quite hot without boiling, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pike with Sour-Kraut. Cleanse and scale a good-sized pike, and cut the flesh into neat fillets. Dry these well, flour them, dip them into beaten egg and seasoned breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter until they are brightly browned. Butter a dish thickly. Put on it a layer of boiled kraut, grate some cheese over this, then put a layer of the fried pike with a little sowc cream, then kraut again, and repeat until the dish is full. Lay little pieces of butter here and there upon the top, cover the whole with finely-grated breadcrumbs, and pour in a small quantity of stock. Bake in a moderate oven, and serve very hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. PIK ( 571 ) PIL Pikelets. Whisk two eggg thoroughly, and mix with them a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, a pint of lukewarm milk, two pounds of Hour, and a table-spoonful of good fresh yeast. Beat the mixture for ten or twelve minutes, put it into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and let it remain near the fire for two houi's, by which time it ought to have risen lightly. Make it into round cakes, half an inch thick and the size of a saucer. Bake these on a girdle, and when they are done enough on one side, turn them upon the other. Butter the pikelets whilst hot, and send three or four to table together. If any are left till the next day, they should be toasted and buttered like crumpets. Time to bake, three or four minutes. Probable cost, id. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Pikelets (another way) . Eub an ounce of fresh butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, and a well-beaten egg. Put the flour into a bowl, and make a hole in the middle of it. Pour into this a quarter of an ounce of German yeast dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water. Stir the whole together, and add as much lukewarm milk as will make the whole like thick batter. Beat for ten or twelve minutes, and let it stand near the fire for an hour. Put the bakestone over a moderate fire. Melt a little butter or lard upon this, and pour over it a tea-cupful of the batter. Vhen one side is done, turn it lightly upon the other. Butter the pikelets whilst hot, and serve them three or four on a plate. The bakestone will require to be freshly greased with each pikelet. Time to bake, about two minutes each side. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Probable cost, d. each. Pilau. This is an Oriental dish, much liked by those who have become accustomed to it whilst travelling or residing in the East. We are told by travellers that in Turkey and Arabia it is a verj' simple preparation, consisting generally of poultrj- or meat too much dressed served with rice under-dressed, and seasoned with pepper and salt. English families who have resided abroad require a little more than this, however, and for them the succeeding recipes are given. The following additional recipes will be found under their respective headings : Indiajt, Plain Persian Indian, Real Rabbit Oyster Turkish Pilau. Arabian. Take three or four poimds 01 a neck or loin of mutton. Trim off the fat, and stew the meat gently in four pints of nicely-seasoned stock until it is done enough. Take it up, and put it aside, then throw into the "boiling stock a pound of Patna rice, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Stir in four ounces of fresh butter, and simmer again until the rice is tender without being broken. Cut the meat into convenient-sized pieces, fry these lightly in butter, and serve them in the dish with the rice. If liked, the pilau may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters length-svise, or -svith forcemeat balls, or rings of onion, fried until very dry. Time to boil the mutton, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pilau, Arabian (another way). See Arabian Pilau. Pilau, Indian. Take three pounds of the neck or loin of mutton or lamb, and divide them into cutlets ; or, if prefeiTed, take a chicken, and cut it into neat joints. Choj) three large onions, and fry them in two ounces of butter, with an Indian mango, cut up small. If the mango cannot be had, four ounces of Sultana raisins and a quarter of a clove of garlic may be substituted ; and in this case, two table-spoonfuls of curry powder may be mixed with the butter. Stir the ingredients over the fire for ten minutes, sprinkle a little salt over, and simmer aU gently together for three-quarters of an hour. Vllilst the meat is simmering, boil the rice according to the dii'ections given for Eice for a Pilau [see Pilau, Rice for a). Pile it on a dish, lay the pieces of meat upon it, pour th sauce over, and serve very hot. Instead of preparing the rice as previously mentioned, it may be dressed as foUows: Wash threequarters of a pound of rice, and boil it gently for a quarter of an hour in a pint of stock. Pour off the gravy, add three ounces of fresh butter to the rice, and stir over a quick fire until it is brightly and equally coloui-ed. ]\Ioisten with a little stock, season with a pinch of mixed sweet herbs, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Simmer again until the rice is quite tender without being broken. Lift out the lemonrind, and add a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Spread haH the rice on a hot dish, lay the pieces of meat upon it, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and cover with the remainder of the rice. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the meat and simmer the rice. Probable cost, 3s. 4d., if made with mutton and without cream. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pilau, Indian (another way). Boil a chicken and two pounds of bacon in the usual way. Take them up, to keep in the heat as much as possible, lay them on a hot dish, and cover with a cloth doubled in five or six thicknesses. Boil up again two pints of the chicken broth, and put with it two small onions, six cloves, six peppercorns, and three allspice, tied in a muslin bag. Simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, or until the rice is tender, but unbroken. Lift out the onions and the bag containing the spices, put in the fowl to make it quite hot, place it on a dish, and pile the rice smoothly over it. Send the bacon to table on a separate dish. The bacon should be boiled in the same liquid as the fowl, in order to season it. Time to boil the chicken, according to size. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost, 4s. 6d., with a chicken at 2s. 6d. Pilau of Fowl. Truss a plump young chicken as if for_ boiling. Put it into a stewpan, with five pints of stock seasoned rather highly with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, and boil gently imtil it is three-parts done. Whilst the fowl is boiling, wash a pound of best PIL (572) PIL Patna rice, and dry it in a soft cloth. Throw it into toiling water, and boil quickly for five minutes, drain it, and stir it in a ste \'pan with two ounces of butter until it is equally and lightly browned. When the fowl is half cooked, put in the rice, and four ounces of Sultana raisins, and lot all simmer gently together until the ' grains are tender %vithout being broken, and the gra,\'j is almost absorbed. Lay the fowl in a hot dish, cover with the rice, lay the raisins at the top, and garnish the dish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, or with thinly-sliced onions fried until they are quite diy and brown. Serve very hot. Time to boil the fowl, according to size. Three-quarters of an hour to simmer the rice. Sufi&cient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., with a chicken at 2s. 6d. Pilau of Fowl (another way). Cut up a plump chicken into neat joints, and lay these in a stewpan vith two salt-spoonfuls of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, a di-achm of powdered mace, and as much stock as will cover the fowl. Let it simmer gently mitil done enough. Lift the joints out, and di'op into the liquid very gradually so that the boiling may not be stopped half a pound of Patna rice. Let it simmer until the grains are quite tender without being broken, then add three ounces of fresh butter divided into small pieces, and let the j)an remain near the fii'e for a minute or two imtil the butter is melted. Fry the pieces of chicken imtil they are brightly browned. Pile the rice lightly on a hot dish, arrange the pieces of chicken upon it, and serve very hot. Time, an hour- and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 3d., with a chicken at 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pilau, Rice for a. The most important part of a Pilau is the rice. It is prepared as follows : Wash and pick half a pound of rice, throw it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil rapidly for five minutes. Drain it, put it into a stewjjan with two ounces of fresh butter, and stir it over a quick fire until it is lightly coloured ; add cayenne pepper, a table-spoorLful of safeon-water, and threequarters of a pint of stock, and siimner gently until the grains are quite tender without being broken. Stir in a table-spoonful of currypowder, pile the rice high on a dish, and send it to table with the meat placed upon it. Or wash and pick half a pound of rice, 'and dry it thoroughly in a soft cloth. Drop it verj gradually into a pint and a half of boiling water, and let it boil gently imtil the rice is quite tender without being broken, and the water is absorbed. AVhen this point is reached, throw in two ounces of butter broken into small pieces, with a little salt and cayenne. Stir the whole briskly for a minute or two, and serve hot with stewed meat cut into neat pieces placed upon the rice. Time to boil the rice, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, rice, 3d. per pound. Patna rice is the best for this purpose. Sufficient for three or foirr persons. Pilchards. Pilchards are rarely found on the British shores except on the eoasts of Cornwall and Devon, particularly the former, where they are captured in great numbers from the middle of July to the end of November, or even the middle of December. Cornish fishermen say that the pilchard is the least fish in the sea for size, the most in number, and the greatest for gain taken from the sea. The principal seats of the pilchard fishery are St. Ives, Mount's Bay, and Mevagissey. The fish are captured either by scans or by drift-nets. A scan is a net 200 or 300 fathoms long, and over ten feet deep, ha\'ing cork buoys on one edge and lead weights on the other. Whenever the fish are brought on shore they are carried to cellars or warehouses, and piled in large heaps, a sufficient quantity of salt being placed between the layers. After remaining in this state for about thirty-five days they are carefully washed and cleaned, and then packed in hogsheads, containing on an average 2,600 fish. They are then pressed, so as to extract the oil, of which each hogshead yields about three gallons, provided the fish be caught in summer. Those taken late in the season do not yield above a gallon and a half. The fresh fish in a hogshead of pilchards weigh about six hundredweight, and the salt about six hundred- weight and a half ; the weight of the hogshead, however, when cured and pressed, is reduced to about four and a half hundred-weight, including the weight of the cask, which ranges from twenty to twenty-four pounds. The quantity of pilchards taken at one time is sometimes extraordinary. !RIr. Ya\'ul, in 1841, mentions that an instance has been known where 10,000 hogsheads have been taken in one port in a single day, thus providing the enormous multitude of over 25,000,000 of Living creatures drawn at once from the ocean for human sustenance. Pilchards are not used in England except in Devon and Cornwall. They are principally exported, and are largely consumed in some parts of the continent during the season of Lent. The taste of the pilchard is very like that of the herring, but it is more oily. Even after much of the oil has been removed by pressure, it is still as rich as could be wished. THE I'lLCHAUD. Pilchard and Leek Pie (a Devonshire dish). Trim off the coarser leaves from four or five large leeks. Cut the white part only into equal lengths, and scald these in salted water. Lay them in a pie-dish, the edges of which are lined with plain pastry, put between the layers f om- salted pilchards which have been laid in cold water the previous day to soaki and put on the PIL (573) PIN cover. Bake in a modorato oven. When the pie is done enough, lift up the cover, drain off the gravy, and put in its place a cupful of boiling cream. Time to bake the pic, forty minutes or more. Probable coat, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pilchards, Cooking of. Pilchards are very oily, and quickly deteriorate in quaUty, so that they are not often sent uncured to any great distance from the place where they are caught. They may be dressed according to the directions given for herrings. They may be distinguished from the herring by the fact that the fin is exactly in the middle of the back, whilst in the herring it is nearer the tail. Probable cost, uncertain. Pimento, Allspice, or Jamaica Pepper. The tree from which the fruit producing this spice is obtained is a native of the West Indies. It is cultivated, however, almost exclusively in Jamaica, thus giving rise to the name Jamaica pepper. The designation all spice is derived from the spice resembling in flavour a mixtiire of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The berries are gathered in an unripe state, when the essential oil contained in them is most abundant ; they are then di-ied in the sun. The flavoiu- resides within the sheU of the pimento, which is, when dried, about twice the size of a peppercorn. Allspice is inexpensive in price, and agreeable in flavoiu'. It is much used in domestic cookery. The berries may be bought either whole or ground. Pimento Curry {see Curry, Pimento). Pine-apple, The. The pine-api le is a fruit of delicious flavour. It is principally gro-w-n in South America and the West Indies, though it has been very successfully cultivated in England, where it sometimes reaches a large size. The price is exceedingly variable, owing to the uncertaintj- of the supply. Pine-apple, Bottled. Be veiy careful that the pine-apples are perfectly sound and ripe. Pare them, and remove the specks. Cut them into slices half an inch thick, and divide these into halves. Put them into dry wide-mouthed bottles, cover them with syrup, and cork down securely. Wrap a wisp of hay round each bottle. Put them side by side in a boiler, with cold water up to their necks. Bring the water to a boil, and let it boil gently for twenty minutes. Draw the pan aside, and let the bottles remain untouched until they are quite cold. Wax the corks, and store in a cool cellar. The syrup, which is to be poured over the fruit, shoxild be made as follows : Dissolve three pounds of loaf-sugar in a quart of water. Stir in half the white of an egg, and stir the' syinip over the fire for two or tlireo minutes. Let it boil, and skim carefullj'. In order to assist the scum in rising, throw in a spoonful of cold water two or tliree times. Strain the syrup through a napkin, and it wiU bo ready for use. Time to boil the bottled fruit, twenty minutes. Probable cost, pine-apples, when cheap, Is. to 2s. each. Pine-apple, Bottled, without Boiling, Choose pine-apples which, though ripe, are perfectly sound. Pare theirs, remove the specks, and cut them into shoes a quarter of an inch thick. Weigh them, and allow one pound of powdered and sifted sugar to each poimd of fruit. Put a layer of the sugar half an inch deep at the bottom of a small glass jar. Place on this a layer of equal depth of sliced fruit. Press it down, and repeat until the jar is full, remembering only that the first and last layer must be of sugar. Fit the cover as closely as possible, to keep the fruit air-tight. Pine-apple, Brandied. Pare, trim, and slice the fruit, weigh it, and allow one i:)ound of powdered sugar to each pound of fruit. Choose glass jars which are as nearly as possible the size of the slices of fruit. Fill them lightly, without pressing them dovra, with alternate layers of sugar and pine-apple, remembering always that the undermost and uppei-most layer must consist of sugar. Pour in as much brandy as will a little more than cover the slices, put on closely -fitting covers to exclude the air, and store in a cool, dry, dark place. Pine-apple Cardinal (a cooling drink). Peel a pine-apple, and cut it into thin sUces. Put these into a deep dish, cover them with powdered sugar, and let them stand four or five hours. Put the rind into a small stewpan, with as much water as will cover it, bring it to a boil, skim it, and pour it over the fruit. Add six ounces of refined sugar and a bottle of light wine. Cover the vessel which contains the fruit, &c., and leave it in a cool place for two hours. When it is wanted for use, stir it well, and mix with it a bottle of seltzer. If a larger quantity of the beverage is required, another bottle or more of wine may be added, but it must be remembered that six ounces of sugar must be put in vnth. every additional bottle. If prefeiTcd, champagne may be used instead of seltzer. Time, seven or eight hours. Probable cost, pine-apples, when cheap, Is. to 2s. each. Pine-apple Chips. Pare some pineapples, and carefuUy remove the specks or eyes with the point of a knife. Cut them into slices, PIN (574) PIN and place these on a large dish in a single layer with as much powdered and sifted sugar sprinkled over as will cover them. Keep the fruit in a hot closet until it is dry, turning it regularly each day. When the dry point is reached, put the slices on a tin, and place them in a quick oven for ten minutes. When quite cool, store them in single layers in a tin box with writing-paper between each layer. Time, nine or ten days to dry the slices. Pine-apple, Compote of. Peel a pineapple, and pick all the specks or eyes from it ; cut it into slices half an inch thick, keep one of the largest of these whole, and divide the rest into halves. Make some syrup by boiling five ounces of lump sugar in half a pint of water for ten minutes, put in the slices of fruit, and let them boil for five minutes. Leave them in the syrup until they are quite cold ; drain them ; put the whole sHce in the centre of a compotedish, and arrange the half slices in a circle round it ; pour the syrup over, and serve. Time to boil the sjTup, ten minutes ; with the fruit, five minutes. Probable cost, pine-apples, when very cheap, Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pine-apple Cream in a Mould. Take a moderate-sized pine-apple, fuUy ripe, pare it carefully, pick out the specks or eyes, strip all the pulp from the core, and cut it into dice with a sil 'er knife. Strew over it nine ounces of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and let it soak for two hours. Put the peel into a saucepan with half a pint of water, and let it simmer gently for an hour ; strain it, and let it cool. Ketum the liquid into the saucepan, with the fruit, sugar, and juice, and boil all gently together for a quarter of an hour. Skim it, and mix with it three-quarters of an ounce of best isinglass. Boil it ten minutes longer, pour it out, and mix with it a pint and a quarter of thick cream. Whisk the mixture briskly until it begins to thicken, then pour it into a mould, and set it on ice. The cream should be stirred for a few minutes after it is put upon the ice, or the fruit will sink to the bottom. Probable cost, 4s. 6d., with pine-apples at Is. 6d. each, and cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for a quart mould. Pine -apple Cream, made with Tinned Fruit. Cut half a pound of preserved pine-apple into dice. Put the sjTup into a stewpan with three ounces of loaf-sugar and half a pint of water. When the sugar is dissolved, put in the fruit, and boil all quickly for ten minutes. Add three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass, and boil ten minutes longer. Pour the mixture into a bowl, and whisk it well with one pint and a quarter of cream. As soon as it begins to thicken, pour it into a mould, and set it upon ice. Stir it for a few minutes after it is on the ice to prevent the fruit settling to the bottom. Time, threequarters of an hour. Sufficient for seven or eight people. Pine-apple Creams Served in Glasses. Pare a ripe pine-apple, and cut the rind into pieces. Boil it in a quarter of a pint of milk until the flavour is drawn out then strain it, and mix with it four ounces of loaf-sugar, a pint of cream, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, and stir over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out, let it cool, then whisk until it is nicely frothed, and put it into the glasses. AVhen pine-apple cream is made in this way, the pulp may be cut up and used for dessert. Time, half an hour to boil the rind in the milk. Probable cost, 3s. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen glasses. Pine-apple Drops. Pare a very ripe pine-apple, bruise the pulp in a mortar, and press it through a coarse sieve. Put it, with its juice, into a basin, and stir into it, very gradually, as much coarsely-sifted sugar as will make it into a stiff paste. Put it into a small sugar-boiler, and stir over the fire until it boils. Let it fall in drops upon an oiled baking-sheet, and when the drops are cold lay them on a sieve, and place them in a hot screen until they are quite dry. Pine-apple Fritters. Pare a pineapple with as little waste as possible. Cut it into thick slices, and place these in a shallow dish. Sprinkle two ounces of powdered and sifted sugar upon them, pour a wineglassful of brandy, cura ,'oa, or maraschino over them,, and let them soak for five hours. Make a frying batter as follows: Mix a salt-spoonful of salt with three-quarters of a pound of flour ; add the well- whisked yolks of two egga and two ounces of clarified butter, and pour in, very gradually, a little more than half a pint of lukewarm water or, if preferred, beer. Beat the mixture thoroughly whilst the water ia being added, so that it may be quite smooth. This batter should be sufficiently thick to drop from the spoon. It should be made at the time that the slices are put into the liqueur, and then put aside, as it is best when made two or three hours before it is wanted. Ten minutes before it is to be used, add the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Dip the pieces of pine-apple into the batter, and drop them into boiling lard. Turn them lightly in this until they are crisp and brown on both sides, then drain from the fat, and serve them quickly. They should be piled on a neatly-folded napkin, and have powdered sugar sifted over them. Time to fry, six or eight minutes. Probable cost, pine-apples, when cheap. Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pine-apple Glace for Dessert. Take some slices of pine-apple, and boil them in syrup as if for a compote {see Pine-apple, Compote of) . Let them remain in the syrup until cold, then drain them entirely from it, put a skewer half way through each slice, and place them in a hot screen to dry. Prepare some sugar as follows : Dissolve a poimd of sugar in a pint of water, put it over a quick fire, skim carefuUy, and boil it until it has reached the third, or feathered, degree. ;,When it is almost done, stiiit lightly for a minute or two, and press the side of the pan with the spoon. In order to ascertain when the sugar has reached the proper stage, dip in the skimmer, shake it, and give it a sudden toss. If done enough, the sugar PIN (o7o ) PIN ?will fly off like snow-flakes. When the precise point is reached (a few seconds will make . a difference), put in the slices of pine-apple bymeans of the skewers, cover them entirely with the sugar, and then place them on a wire fruitdrainer. In about ten minutes, if the operation has been successful, it ought to be possible to draw away the fruit, without disturbing the sugar, by pressing it with the fingers from beneath. Preparations of this kind are best left to the confectioner. Time to dry the fruit, about an hour. Probable cost, pine-apples, when cheap, Is. to 2s. each. Pine-apple lee Cream. Whisk the yolks of six eggs thoroughly. Mix with them half a pint of lukewarm milk, and add two ounces of loaf sugar. Stir this custard over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken, then pour it out, and stir it again. Pare a pine-apple with as little waste as possible. Cut it into slices, and boil it for five minutes in a sjTup made of half a pound of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of water. Press the fruit thi-ough a coarse sieve, and stir the pulp and the syi-up into the custard. Put the cream into a mould, and freeze in the usual way. This cream may be made with half a pound of preserved pineapple. Probable cost, pine-apples. Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pine-apple Ice Cream (another way). Slice the pine-apple, and bruise it in a mortar. Add a pint of cream, a quarter of a pint of good fresh milk, a little lemon-juice, and a quarter of a pound of fine sugar. Mix the whole well together, and pass it through a hair sieve. Freeze. If preserved pine-apple be used, a half-pound pot will be required. Time, twenty-five minutes to freeze. Probable cost, 3s. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Pine Apple Jam. Weigh the pineapples, then skin and eye them, and cut them into thin slices. Take the same weight of broken lump sugar, put half of it over the fruit, let it stand for two hours or so, and boil for half an hour. Next day add the rest of the sugar, and boil for one hour. Put the preserve into jars. When stirring the jam take care to do it gently with a wooden spoon. Pine-apple Jelly. Pare a ripe pineapple, and cut it into slices. Lay these on a dish, cover them with powdered and sifted sugar, and leave them for six or seven hours. Pour off the sjTup and strain it. Dissolve and clarify an ounce of isinglass (see Isinglass to Clarify) in half a pint of water. Mix with it a pint of the strained juice, and simmer all gently together for five minutes. Add a glassful of cura9oa. Pour three table-spoonfuls of the jeUy into a mould shaped like a pine-apple, if one be at hand. Let the jelly stiffen, then lay neatly on it two or three slices of the pineapple, and a little more jelly. Let this also stiffen, and repeat until the mould is full. Turn the jelly out very carefully when it is wanted for use. If preferred, this jelly can be put into the mould without the fruit, but will not then be so elegant. When time is a consideration, the flavour of the pine-apple may be drawn out more quickly by cutting the fruit into slices. and boiling half a pound of it with eight ounces of loaf sugar, and half a i int of water for half an hour, then straining it through a napkin. Time, two days. If the mould cannot be put upon ice, the jelly should be made some hours before it is wanted. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the cm'ac oa, if made with a pine-apple costing Is. 6d.; % ufficieut for six or eight persons. ,-?" Pine -applet Julep. Pare a very ripe pine-apple with as little waste as possible, and cut it into thin slices. Lay these in a large bowl, and strain over them the juice of two sweet oranges. Pour in a quarter of a pint of maraschino, a quarter of a pint of gin, and a quarter of a pint of raspberry syrup, and mix thoroughly. Just before serving, add a bottle of sparkling MoseUe and a tumblerful of shaved ice. Pine-apple Marmalade. Choose ripe sound pines. Pare them, take out the eyes, weigh the fruit, and allow an equal weight of pounded and dried sugar. Grate the flesh on a coarse grater, then put it over a moderate fire, and let it heat gently for ten minutes, or until it is quite tender. Add the sugar very gradually, and boil the mixture until it looks thick and clear. Turn it into jars, and cover in the usual way. If preferred, the fruit may be cut up and poimded instead of being grated ; but though more troublesome it is best when grated. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Pine-apple, Preserved. Pine-apples are so expensive that it is very unusual to preserve them in any quantity. Nevertheless, as the jam made from them is very delicious and highly esteemed, the following recipes are given : The foreign fruit and that which is grown at home is often mixed with advantage. It need scarcely be said that that which is grown at home is much superior to that sent from abroad. Great care must be taken in choosing the fruit to secure it perfectly sound and fully ripe, without being in the least decayed. If the flesh roimd the stalk looks mouldy or dark, the fruit should not be preserved. The flavour of pine-apples may generally be guessed at by their odour. Pare the pine-apples, and take out the eyes. Cut them into slices a third of an inch thick. For every pound of fruit thus weighed after being pared, take a pound of loaf sugar, and a small teacupful of water. Dissolve the sugar in the water, skim carefiilly, and boil until it forms a clear sjTup. Put in the slices of pine, and boil gently until they look bright and clear. Put the preserve into jars, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place. Time to boil, at least half an hour after the fruit reaches the boiling point. Probable cost, when pine-apples are cheap. Is. 3d. per pound. Pine-apples, Preserved (for a short time only). Pare the fruit, cut it into slices, and remove the specks and the hard part from the centre. Tear the rind into small pieces ; put these and the waste portions into a stewpan with as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, or until the liquid is pleasantly flavoured. PIN (576) PIN Strain it, and put it back into the saucepan with the fruit, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour : then add sugar to taste, and simmer another quarter of an hour. Turn it out, and it is ready for serving. Probable cost, pineapples, when cheap. Is. 6d. to 2s. each. Pine-apple Pudding. Boil haH a pint of milk with three ounces of butter and three ounces of sugar. As soon as the milk rises in the pan, lift it from the fire, stir four- ounces of flour into it, and beat it well until it is quite smooth. Put it on the fire again, and stir until it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Pour it out, and mix in the wellbeaten yolks of three eggs and three ounces of preserved pine-apple cut into dice. Butter a mould rather thickly, and just before pouring the mixture into it, add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Steam the pudding by placing it in a saucepan upon an inverted pudding-plate, and keeping it surrounded with about thi-ee inches of boihng water until it is done enough. Turn the pudding out upon its dish, with a little wine sauce poured over it. Time to steam, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Pine-apple Pudding (another way). Cut three ounces of preserved pine-apple into dice, and carefully preserve the syrup for the sauce. Crumble three ounces of stale spongecake. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of milk or cream, and add three well-beaten eggs, the fruit, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered and sifted loaf sugar. Beat all thoroughly for a quarter of an hour. Pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould, cover with buttered writingpaper, and steam the pudding by placing the mould upon a plate turned upside down in a saucepan, and keeping round it two inches of boiling water. Let it steam until done enough, then turn it out carefully, and send it to table with the sauce poured round it. To make the sauce, put two table-spoonfuls of the pine-apple syrup into a saucepan, with two table-spooniuls of water, a table-spoonful of apple- jelly, and a small lump of sugar crushed to powder. Let the syrup boil, then thicken it -with half a tea-spoonful of arrowroot, mixed smoothly with a small quantity of cold water. Boil it a minute or two, add a table-spoonful of brandy or cura(;'oa, and serve. Time to steam the pudding, about fifty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pine-apple Pudding, Cold, or Pain d' Ananas. Cut a ripe pine-apple into slices, and boil it for ten minutes in a pint of syrup. Lift out the fruit, and press it through a sieve. Soak an ounce of gelatine in half a pint of cold water for twenty minutes, drain it, put it into the syrup in which the pine-apple was boiled, and stir it over the fire until it is dissolved. _ Strain through a napkin, and when the syrup is cold mix the pine-apple pulp with it. Decorate a plain mould with an ounce of pistachios cut into strips, a large pear cut into dice, and some preserved cherries. The fruit may be stuck upon the mould with a little melted gelatine. Pom- in the mixture, and place the pudding u Don ice until it is wanted. Turn it out before serving. Time to prepare, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pine-apple Pudding, Cold, or Pain d' Ananas, Rich. Pare a large ripe pineapple, and carefully take out the specks or eyes. Slice it, and cut it into dice. Boil for ten minutes in a quarter of a pint of syrup, and put the fruit aside until wanted. Tear the rind into small pieces, and pour over these half a pint of boiling cream. Let them infuse for half an hour, then stii- in the yolks of six eggs, well beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir the custard over a moderate fire until it begins to thicken, strain it, and when it is quite cold add the sjTup and the fruit. Ornament a plain mould according to the directions given in the preceding recipe, set it in ice, and fill it \vith the preparation. Put a baking-sheet over it, lay some ice on this, and let it remain until it is wanted. Turn it out of the mould carefully, and serve. Time to prepare, an hour or more. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pine-apple Punch. Take a sound, ripe, well-flavoured pine-apple, pare it, pick out the specks, and cut it into thin slices. Weigh the pulp, and put half a pound of it into a bowl. Boil a quarter of a pound of best Carolina rice in a quart of cold water, with two inches of stick cinnamon, and a quarter of a di-achm of green nutmeg. A Tien the rice is soft, strain the water, and put it aside for a short time. Kub a few lumps of sugar upon the rind of eight fresh lemons, add more sugar to make up a pound and a half, and put this and the strained juice of the lemons with the pineaj ple. Pour in three pints of boiling water, and then with two jugs one in each hand pour the liquid backwards and forwards from a good height, and continue this for twenty minutes. Add gradually half a bottle of French brandy, half a bottle of madeira, and a bottle and a half of rum, and whilst the spirits and wine are being added keep on pouring the liquid from one jug to another for fully threequarters of an hour, by which time the punch will be delicately flavoured. Last of all, add the seasoned rice-water, stir it quickly into the pimch, pour the preparation into a bowl with a closely-fitting lid, throw a cloth over this, and leave it in a cool jDlace for eight hours. Strain through a jelly-bag until the pimch is quite bright, then bottle it, and cork securely. Pineapple improves with keeping. Sufficient for about a gallon of punch. Pine-apple Sauces for Puddings. Pare a pine-apple, and carefully remove the specks. Cut it into slices, and then into dice, and place these in a saucepan. With twelve ounces of fruit put four table -spoonfuls of water, let the fruit simmer gentlj', and when it is quite tender mix with it half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar. Let it boil a few minutes, and pour it over the pudding. Or, pare the fruit as above directed, weigh it, and cut it into dice. Put a quarter of a pound into a saucepan with PIN (577) PIN its juice, and a dessert-spoonful of water, and let it simmer very gently until tender; then add four ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, and boil gently until the sauce looks bright and clear. Before sending to table stir into it a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. A superior sauce, and one which will keep for some time, may be made as follows : Put a pound of the minced flesh of a pine-apple into a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently until tender; strain the juice, and mix with it a pound of refined loaf-sugar broken small. Let it heat until the sugar is dissolved, then boil itover a moderate fire. If it is not wanted immediately, pour it into a jar, and cover like jam. Time to boil the juice with the sugar, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, pine-apples, when cheap. Is. 6d. to 2s. each. Pine-apple to Cut for Serving. Pare a pine-apple so that the fruit shall be wasted as little as possible, and in order to do this notch it in and out, and carefully remove all the specks or eyes. Pick the fruit from the core with a silver fork in pieces as large as a bean, and place the dish which contains it on ice until it is wanted. Sugar may be strewed over the fruit or not. It draws out the juice, which is not always desired. Pine-apple Water (a refreshing summer beverage) . Take a moderate-sized pine-apple ; pare and slice it, and pound it to a pulp in a mortar. Put this into a bowl with the strained juice of a large fresh lemon, and pour over it a pint of boiling syrup made in the proportion of one pound of sugar to a pint of water. Cover the jug which contains the liquid, and leave it in a cool place for two hours or more. Strain through a napkin, put two pints of cold spring water with it, and serve. Probable cost, pineapples. Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for three pints of pine-apple water. Pine-apple Water Ice. Take one or two pine-apples which are perfectly sound and fully ripe. Pare them, and pick out the specks. Grate the flesh on a coarse grater, and press the pulp through a colander. To a pint of pulp add half a pint of water and eight ounces of sugar, with the white of a fresh egg beaten to a fii'm froth. Put in the egg in small quantities at a time, and beat the mixture for some minutes. Freeze in the usual way. Or, take half a pound of the flesh of a ripe pine-apple. Pound in a mortar, then mix with it the strained juice of a fresh lemon, a pint of syrup, and half a pint of water. Strain through a napkin, and freeze in the usual way. Probable cost, pine-apples, Is. 6d. to 2s. each. Pink Cream. Take a pint and a half of ripe red currants. Strip them from the stalks, and jjut them into an earthen jar with a closelyfitting lid. Set this in a pan of boiling water, and boil gently until the juice flows freely. Strain the juice through a fine sieve, and sweeten to taste with powdered white sugar. Stir into half a pint of juice a pint of cream, and beat the mixture until it begins to thicken. Serve in a glass dish. If liked, the juice of a lemon may be added to the cream. Time to boil the 38 currants, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Pink Icing. Whisk the whites of two eggs until they are frothy but not white. Stir in gradually half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and beat the mixture briskly, adding now and then half a tea-spoonful of lemon -juice and a drop of cochineal until the mixture looks thick, smooth, shiny, and as deeply coloured as is desired. The icing should be spread fully a quarter of an inch thick over the cake, or whatever it is used for, and should be placed in a cool oven until dry. If the eggs are beaten to a firm froth, the icing will not dry so easily. Time to beat the mixture, half an hour. Proble cost, 6d. for this quantity. Pink Pancakes. Take a moderate-sized boiled beet-root ; pare ?fit the dark outer skin, and cut the root into slices, and pound it in a mortar to a smooth pulp. Make a batter by mixing two table-spoonfuls of flour with half a pint of milk and five well-beaten eggs. Add half a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and when these ingredients are well mixed beat the pulp of the beet-root into the batter. Fiy the pancakes as qrdckly as possible, and serve them rolled, with a little bright coloured jam inside each one. Time, four or five minutes to fry the pancakes. Probable cost, lOd. SuflScient for three or four persons. Pink Sauce for Meat or Fish. Take a large, wide-mouthed bottle, and put into it a quarter of a pint of port, a pint of vinegar, a dessert-spooni'ul of walnut ketchup, two dessertspoonfuls of anchovy liquor, two cloves of garlic, or, if prefen-ed, three shallots, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, and half a quarter of an ounce of cochineal. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, then cork it, and leave it in a cool place for two days, stii'riug it up every now and then. Strain through a tamis, and keep the sauce in small bottles closely corked until wanted ; this sauce may be used as a relish for cold meat, or to flavour fish sauces. Sufiicient for a pint and a quarter. Pink Sugar for Ornamenting Sweet Dishes. Crush the sugar cither coarsely or to a powder, whichever is required. Place two or three di-ops of prepared cochineal in the palm of the hand, and rub the sugar in with it until it is sufficiently coloured, when it is ready for use. Pintail, or Sea Pheasant. This bird, though highly esteemed where it is known, is not common. It is considered best when roasted, and is cooked like an ordinary pheasant, great care being taken to baste it constantly. It should be sent to table with good brown graAy, and a piquant sauce. It will of itself yield a good gravy if it is taken down when it has been before the fire for about twenty-five minutes, dislied, laid in front of the fire for a few minutes, and then served immediately. Time to roast, about half an hoizr. Probable cost, uncertain, sea-pheasants being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for three or four persons. PIP ( 578 ) PIS Pippin Tarts. Take half a dozen Flanders pippins, or any other good cooking apples. Pare and core them, and put them into a saucepan vith a little butter, and sufficient ?water only to prevent them burning. Let them simmer imtil they begin to fall, then add four ounces of moist sugar, and the strained juice and finely-minced rind of a Seville orange. .BoU and stir the mixture until it thickens, then iOm it out to cool. Put it into tartlet shells already baked, and serve cold. Time, about half an hour to boil the apples. Probable cost, 9d. for the apple paste. Sufiicient according to the size of the pippins. Pippins, Frosted. Take half a dozen russets or E-ibston pippins. Pare, core, and divide them in halves, then place them side by side, with the flat part downwards, on a buttered tin. Whisk the white of a fresh egg to a firm froth. Spread it on them, then sprinkle over them the thin rind of a lemon cut into long aarrow strips, and add a covering of powdered and sifted sugar. Bake in a moderate oven until tender, and serve hot. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pippins, Golden, Preserved {see Golden Pippins). Pippins, Normandy [see Noi-mandy Pippins) . Piquant Sauce. Mince very finely a table-spoonful of capers, a table-spoonful of shallots, and a table-spoonful of gherkins. Put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and let them simmer gently for three minutes. Add half a pint of broth or stock, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening. BoU the sauce until it is thick and smooth, skim carefully, and it is ready for use. If bro vn thickening is not at hand, mix half an ounce of butter -vN-ith half an ounce of flour, and stir these ingredients quickly together over a moderate fire until the mixture is brightly coloured ; moisten with the stock, and pour it over the gherkins, &c. Time, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for nearly a pint of sauce. Probable cost, lOd. Piquant Sauce (another way). Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a small saucepan over a moderate fire. Throw in a tablespoonful of chopped onions, and stir them about for two minutes, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of flour over them, and beat it with the back of a wooden spoon to prevent it getting into lumps. Add half a pint of stock or broth, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then lift out the herbs, poxir in haK a wine-glassful of \'inegar, and add a little pepper and salt if required; let all boU up together, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint of sauce. Piquant Sauce (another way). Mix together a table-spoonful of minced capers and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Put with them six anchovies which have been boned and pounded, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and a table-spoonful of dry mustard. Eub these ingredients with the back of a. wooden spoon until they are smoothly mixed, then press them through a coarse sieve. Add a pinch of cayenne, and moisten the whole with two table-spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar. Stir the paste into half a pint of stock or melted butter ; let it boil, strain it, and it is. ready for ser 'ing. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint of sauce. Piquant Sauce for Storing. The month of August is the best time for making this sauce, and it should not be used for fully three months after it is made. Take equal quantities of young walnuts and large mushrooms; put them into separate pans, bruise them well, and whilst bruising sprinkle a little salt in with them. A pound of salt will be sufficient for a peck of mushrooms and a hundred and fifty walnuts. Let them lie for a week, tm-ning and bruising them frequently ; then press them well, and drain off the liquor. Boil it separately until the scum ceases to rise. Measure it, and mix it in equal quantities, and with each pint of the mixed hquid put a pint of N-inegar, half a blade of mace, four allspice, two cloves, a quai-ter of an ounce of ginger, as much. cayenne as will lie on a threepenny piece, half a salt-spoonful of mustard seed, a clove of garlic, and three shallots. BoU and skim the sauce for twenty minutes. Pour it out, and when cold strain it, and mix with each pint a glassful of port, a quarter of a pint of claret, and a tablespoonful of soy. Put the liquid into small bottles, cork and seal them securely, and store as indeed should be done with all such preparations in a cool, dry place. Probable cost, uncertain. PISTACHIO NUTS. Pistachio Cream. Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of pistachio nuts, and pound them to a smooth paste, with a little rose or orange-flower water. Stir the paste into a pint of thick cream, add a table- spoonful of sugar and a table-spoonful of brandy, and stir the mixture over a gentle flre until it is on the point of boiling. Pour it out, and when cold serve in a glass dish or in glasses, with a few pistachios, blanched and cut into long narrow strips, sprinkled on the top. Probable cost. PIS (579) PLA 2s. lOd. SufiScient for a little more than a pint of crcum. Pistachio Ice Cream. Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of pistachios, and pound them to a smooth paste with a few drops of rose-water. Beat the yolks of six eggs, and pour over them a pint and a half of hoiling milk ; add four ounces of powdered sugar, and stir the custard over the fire until it begins to thicken ; then pour it out, and when cool stir into it the poimded pistachios and a tea-spoonful of spinach colouring. Pass the whole through a sieve ; mould and freeze. If preferred, the pistachio paste can he mixed with cream instead of custard. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the custard. Sufficient for a quart of ice cream. Probable cost, 2s. Pistachio Kernels,Burnt. Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of freshlj'- imported pistachio kernels, and put them in a gentle oven until they are quite dry and hot through. Put half a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan with just enough water to dissolve it, and add a few drops of vanilla flavouring and of spinach juice. Let the sugar boQ until it is nearly, but not quite, brittle; then take the saucepan from the fire, throw in the pistachios, and stir them about in the sugar until they are well covered with it, taking care that the sugar does not stick to the sides of the pan. Turn all out of the pan, and lay the kernels on a sieve ; cover them over, and leave them for a few minutes. Pick the sugar from them, put it again into the pan with enough water to dissolve it, and boil again until it reaches the same point as before. Throw in the kernels, stir them about, and when they are once more covered take them out ; repeat the operation a third time, imtil the kernels are twice their original size, when they are ready for use. If required, a few more drops of spinach colouring may be put in the last time of boiling. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, pistachios, 4s. per pound. Pistachio Macaroons. Blanch seven ounces of pistachios and seven ounces of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding the white of an egg a few drops at a time. Put with these ingredients a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, a tablespoonful of cura9oa, and a tea-spoonful of spinach juice for colom-ing. "When the mixture is pounded to a smooth but firm paste, form it into balls nearly an inch in diameter, and lay these on a baking-sheet. Leave a little distance between the macaroons, and bake in a gentle oven until they are hard and set. Turn them upside down, and brush the back of the bakingsheet with a little water, which will make it easier to lift off the macaroons. Keep them in a cool, dry place until wanted. Time to bake the macaroons, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. Pistachio Nuts. Pistachia or Pistachio nuts, (says McCuUoch), are the fruit of the Fistachia vera, a kind of turpentine tree. It grows naturally in Arabia, Persia, and Syria ; also in Sicily, whence the nuts are annually brought to us. They are oblong and pointed. about the size and shape of a filbert, including a kernel of a pale greenish coloui-, covered with a yellowish or reddish skin. They have a pleasant, sweet, imctuous taste, resembling that of sweet ahnonds ; their principal difference from which consists in theii- having a greater degree of sweetness, accompanied with a hght, grateful flavour ; and in being more oily. Pistachios imported from the East are superior to those raised in Eui-ope. Pistachio nuts have a tendency to become rancid. They are used on the Continent, in districts where they are plentiful, in the manufacture of ragouts and various other dishes. There is a slightly acid variety of the nut which is made into cakes, with dates, by the Arabs. Plaice. Plaice is a flat fish, and not very highly esteemed, excepting when soles, tui'bot, and salmon cannot be procured. It comes into season at the beginning of summer, and continues for the remainder of the year. It may be known to be in good condition when the body is thick and firm, the eyes bright, and the pale side shghtly tinged -with pink. Plaice is never so nice as when filleted, dipped into egg and bread-crumbs, and fried. Probable cost, plaice, when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Plaice, Baked. Empty one or two moderate-sized plaice, sprinkle a little salt over them, let them lie a couple of hours, then drain them, and dry them well with a soft cloth. Cut them across into slices about two inches wide ' then mince finely half an ounce of onions, a portion of this at the bottom of a ?dish, and put with it an oimce of butter or good heef dripping, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. Put the slices of plaice upon this, and cover with the remainder of the onion mixed with a little chopped parsley and some finely grated bread-crumbs. Add a little pepper and salt if necessary, lay an ounce of fat broken into pieces on the top of the fish, and pour in at the side a wine-glassful of stock or water. Put the dish into a well-heated oven. As soon as the flesh seems to shrink from the bone it is done enough. Serve the plaice with its owngravj'. If the fish is not sufficiently browned in the baking, hold a red-hot shovel over it for a minute or two. Time to bake, an hour or an hour and a half, according to size and thickness. Probable cost, plaice, when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Plaice, Baked (au Gratin). The larger the plaice for this purpose the better. Salt and dry the fish, rinse it, and let it drain. Take an oval dish that will hold the plaice and stand the PLA ( 580 ) PLA heat of the oven. Smear the bottom -well with butter ; then scatter over it a layer of grated bread-crumbs and chopped parsley, with several small lumps of butter, or a little chopped beef or veal suet. On this lay the plaice, white side uppennost ; sprinkle it with more crumbs and parsley, and lay on the top lumps of butter, or dripjoing, or veal or beef suet. Set the dish in the oven, which should be brisk enough to brown the bread-crumbs. As soon as any juice comes away, baste the fish with it, and continue to do so till it is done enough. Serve in the dish in which it was baked, and just before serving sprinkle over the fish a dessert-spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice. Plaice, Boiled. Empty and clean the fish. Cut a sht through the skin from the head down the back, to prevent the white side breaking in boiling. Put it into cold water with a table-spoonful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar. Let it boil, and carefully remove the scum, then draw it to the side, and let it simmer gently until done enough. The time required will of course depend upon the size of the fish, and great care must be taken that the plaice does not break. Four or five minutes only will be sufficient for a moderate-sized fish. As soon as the flesh appears to shrink from the bone it is done enough. Large plaice, however, are the best for boiling. Serve the plaice on a neatly-folded napkin, with shrimp saiice, parsley sauce, or plain melted butter, in a tureen. Garnish the fish with parsley or sliced lemon. Probable cost, when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Sufiicient, one moderate-sized plaice for two persons. Plaice, Broiled. Next to frying this is the best way to treat plaice. Should the fish be inconveniently large, divide it, and broil the pieces by twos and threes. The fish can be cut up into squares by division along the backbone, and then transversed. Plaice, Choosing. Kentish fishermen say the plaice is not at its best until it has tasted May water ; but it is eatable during the greater part of the year. When the fish is fresh, plump, clear-skinned, and with the orange spots on the back brightly coloured, it may be safely handed over for cooking. Plaice, Filleted. Skin the plaice. Lay it flat on the table, and with the point of a sharp Icnife cut right down the back-bone. Insert the knife close to the head, slip it under the flesh, and pass it from head to tail. By this means the fillet may be removed entire and smooth. Trim the ends neatly, and the fish is ready to be fried or stewed. Almost all fishmongers send the plaice already filleted if desired to do so. Plaice, Filleted and Stewed with Oysters. Fillet two or three moderate-sized plaice. Dry them with a soft cloth, sprinkle a little salt over them, dredge them lightly with flour, and fry them in plenty of hot dripping until they are nicely browned. Beard and drain a dozen oysters. Put their liquor into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of white stock or water, a glass of white wine, three anchovies, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let them simmer for a few minutes, then put in the fish' with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and let it i-emain until the sauce is smooth and thick. A minute or two before serving the fish put in the bearded oj'sters. When they are hot, lay the plaice on a hot dish, and serve the sauce round it. Time to fry the plaice, according to thickness, say until it is a bright golden colour. If the fish is very thick the pan should be held high above the fire. Probable cost of moderate-sized plaice when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Plaice, Fried. Fried plaice are best when they are filleted before they are fried {see Plaice, Filleted). Indeed this is by far the most satisfactory mode of dressing this fish. If preferred, the plaice may be cut across into pieces about two inches wide. Sprinkle a little salt over the fish, and let it lie for two or three hom-s. Dry it well, dredge it with flour, then dip it into beaten eg arid fine bread-crumbs, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of bread raspings over the top, and fry the fish in plenty of hot fat until it is brightly coloured. Drain well, and serve on a hot napkin. Garnish wdth green parsley. Time to fry, from twelve to fifteen minutes, according to the thickness of the fish. Probable cost, when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Plaice, Stewed. Take two or three moderate-sized plaice, cut them into pieces about as wide as the length of a finger, sprinkle a little salt over them, and wrap them in a cloth for twenty minutes. Slice a moderatesized onion, and fry it in a little hot fat until it is quite tender. Put it into a stewpan, lay the pieces of plaice on the top of it, and add the juice of five or six lemons, a wine-glassful of water, and a quarter of an oimce of ground ginger. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, and be careful not to let the liquid reach the boiling point. Lift the fish out, and place it on a hot dish. Let the sauce cool, stir gradually into it three well-beaten eggs, and keep stirring over the fire until it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Pour it over the fish, and serve hot. Garnish with slices of lemon. Time, altogether, about three-quarters of an hour-. Probable cost, according to the number of the fish, which, when plentiful, cost 6d. or 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four- persons. Plain Pudding, Ellen's. Line a pie or pudding-dish with thin slices of bread and butter. Peel, core, and slice some apples, lay them in layers in the centre of the lined dish, adding here and there a small lump of fresh butter, some grated lemon-peel, and sugar ; fill up the dish, and lay at the top some thin slices of bread and butter soaked in cold milk. Cover the top with a plate or dish, and put a weight on it to press down the fruit. Bake for three hours in a slow oven. An hour before the pudding is done enough remove the plate or dish and the weight, and let it brown on the top. When ready, turn it out of the pie-dish into the one on which it is to be sent to table. Plaits of Pastry . Make half a pound of pufl'-paste, and give it nine turns {see Pufipaste). Poll it out till it is half a quarter of PLA ( 581 ) PLA an inch in thickness, and cut it into strips tlio third of an inch wide. Fasten throe, four, or five of these together at the ends, moistening the i astry with a little water to make the pieces stick together; plait them evenly and loosely, and fasten them at the other end. Place the plaits on an oiled haking-tin, brush over them beaten egg, and bake in a wellheated oven. These plaits are useful for ornamenting open tarts, or they may be sent to table on a separate dish, with small jjortions of jam of various colours placed in the empty spaces. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Id. each. Plantain, or Banana. This is the pulpy fruit of the Musa paradisiaca, an herbaceous plant extensively grown in most tropical countries. It is especially cultivated in Mexico. It is used in these regions as an established article of diet, and not like most other fruits, as an occasional luxury. There are many varieties of plantain, the fruit of each possessing considerable variations of size, flavour, and shape. In some cases the plantain is not above two or three inches long; in others it is not far short of a foot ; some kinds are sweet, and in flavour reminds one of a good mellow pear; the larger kinds, however, are for the most part coarse and farinaceous. "The banana," says McCuUoch, " forms a principal part of the food of the people of Mexico, and the apathy and PLANTAIN. indolence of the natives of the f terras calicntes, or hot regions, have been ascribed, and probably with good reason, to the facility with which it supplies them with subsistence. It is by no means in such extensive use in tropical Asia, and in that part of the globe comes nowhere into competition with com as an article of food." Gerard says that the pulp of the plantain eats something like that of a musk melon : he calls the plant Adam's apple-tree, from a notion that it was the forbidden fruit of the garden of Eden. Others suppose that the plantain was the grape brought out of the Promised Land to Moses. Dampier says it is the king of all fruit, not excepting the cocoa-nut itself. Of the ease with which the banana is cultivated in its native region, M. Humboldt, in his Essai sur la Nouvellc-EsjJagne, gives some interesting particulars. "I doubt," he says, " whether there be any other plant that produces so great a quantity of nutritive substance in so small a space. Eight or nine months after the sucker is planted it begins to devcloij its cluster. The fruit may be gathered in the tenth or eleventh month. Wlien the stalk is cut there is always found, among the numerous shoots that have taken root, a sj)rout {pimpoUo), which, being two-thirds the height of its parent plant, bears fruit two months later. Thus a plantation of bananas perpetuates itself, without requiring any care on the part of m.an, further than to cut the stalks when the fruit has ripened, and to stir the earth gently oncb or twice a j'ear about the roots." Plants,Wild, Edible, and Poisonous. In the olden time many vegetables and leaves were eaten which arc now neglected, and our ancestors were content to season their homely dishes with wild herbs and plants which we despise. Commerce and horticulture have made us to a certain extent independent of the woods and fields. The subject of edible ?ttdld plants, however, ought not to be neglected. By the study of it we may not only upon an occasion increase our own resources, but be of service to the poor by pointing out what plants they may make use of in seasons of scarcity. All vegetables not absolutely poisonous may be rendered edible by proper preparation. Many sorts, for example, are unpalatable from their bitter and acrid taste ; but this may to a great degree be removed by maceration in cold or hot water. The vegetable matter once reduced to a state of insipidity, it is easy to give it taste and flavour by the addition of salt, or by \-inegar or oils, by adding other vegetables of agreeable tastes and flavours, as thyme, mint, celery-seed, onions, &c., or by adding roasted carrot, parsnip, potato or dandelion roots, or beans, peas, or wheat, or toasted bread. The leaves of trees and bushes, as birch, beech, willow, and gooseberry, we are told, used to bo eaten as salads, and there can be little doubt that man in a primitive state of society would eat almost any green thing that came in his way. Eor the following list of edible wild plants growing in England we are indebted to Loudon's admirable " Encyclopajdia of Gardening." Plants that might be used as Greens AND PoT-HERBS. Black Bryony [Tamus communis). A twining perennial, found growing in hedges, and often thought a poisonous plant. The young leaves and tops are eaten in spring by country people. Burdock {Arctium lappa). A weIl-kno%vn perennial, the tender stalks of which are frequently eaten when boiled. Charlock {Sinapis arvensis). A common annual weed met with in corn-fields. The young plant is eaten in spring as a substitute for turnip-tops, and is considered not inferior to that vegetable. Chickweed {Alsinc media). A common PLA ( 582 ) PLA garden weed, said to be a remarkably good potherb boiled in the spi-ing. Fat Hen [ChcnopocUum urbicmn and Chenopodium album). V,oih. these plants are annuals, and are frequently met with amongst the rubbish of buildings, &c. Boiled and eaten as spinach, they are quite as good as that vegetable. " Several other native, but less common, species of this genus may be applied to the same use." Ox Tongue [Pieris hieraci'oides) . An annual common in clayey pastures and wastes. When boiled it affords a good green. Sauce Alone, or Jack by the Hedge, {Erijsimum aUiaria). A biennial plant, found beside hedges where the soil is diy and rich. The stem rises two or three feet high, with heart-shaped leaves of a yellowish green colour ; the flowers are white, and appear in May. The whole plant has a strong odour of garlic. It is occasionally employed as a salad, boiled as a pot-herb, or introduced in sauces. Neill observes that, when gathered as it approaches the flowering state, boiled separately, and then eaten with boiled mutton, it certainly forms a most desirable pot-herb, and, to any kind of salted meat, an excellent green. Sea Beet {Beta maritima). A biennial common on various sea-shores. It is used like the "Fat Hen." Sea Orache {Atriplex littoralis). An annual which is eaten in the same manner as the Chenopodiuni. Shepherd's Purse [Capsella bursa pastoris). An esculent plant in Philadelphia, brought in large quantities to market early in the season. When boiled it tastes not unlike cabbage, but is softer and milder than that vegetable. Sow Thistle [Sonchus olcraceus). A hardy annual, and a well-known weed in rich garden and field soils. There are two varieties, a prickly and a smooth, both abounding in a milky, bitter juice. The tender tops of the smooth variety are in some countries boiled and used as greens, or mashed as spinach. Spotted Hawkweed {Rypocharis maculata). A perennial, the leaves of which are eaten as salad, and also boiled as greens. Stinging Nettle [Urtica dioica). "This perennial, found in dry, rubbishy soils, and in hedges, is but seldom seen in places where the hand of man has not been at work, and may therefore be considered as a sort of domestic plant. Early in February the tops will be found to have pushed three or four inches, furnished with tender leaves; in Scotland, Poland, and Germany, these are gathered as a pot-herb for soups, or for dishes like spinach, and their peculiar flavour is by many much esteemed. No plant is better adapted for forcing ; and in severe winters, when most of the Brassica tribe have been destroyed, it forms an excellent resource. Collect the creeping roots, and plant them either on a hot-bed or in pots, to be placed in a forcing-house, and they will soon send up abimdance of tender tops; these, if desired, may be blanched by covering with other pots. We have known the nettle forced by being planted close to the flue in a vinery, so as to produce exceUsnt nettle kail ind nettle spinach in the last week of Januarj'." Wild Eocket {Sisymbrium officinale). A common annual of a yellowish hue, from two to three feet high. It is sometimes used as a pot-herb. In salading the tender young leaves greatly resemble mustard in taste and flavour. Willow Herb {JEpilobitim angustifolium). The leaves are a wholesome green, and the young and tender shoots are eaten as asparagus. Wild Plants with Edible Roots. Arrowhead {Sagittaria sagittifolia). An aquatic perennial, the roots of which are said to be very like those of the West India arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea). They are i dried and pounded, but are reported to _ an acrid, unpleasant taste, though this might, it is believed, be got rid of by washing the powder in water. Bitter Vetch or Mouse Pea [Orobus tubcrosus). "The tubers are said to be chewed by the Scottish Highlanders as a substitute for tobacco. Boiled till a fork will pass through them, and dried slightly and roasted, they are served up in Holland and Flanders in the manner of chestnuts, which they resemble in flavour. Dickson recommends cultivating them in a bed or border of light rich soil paved at the depth of twenty inches to prevent their roots from running down. Plant the tubers six inches apart, and three inches below the surface. The second year some will be fit to gather, and bj' taking only the largest, the bed will continue producing for several years by adding some fresh compost every year." Common Arum {Arum macidatmn). A common plant in hedges and woods in loamy soils. It is very abundant in the island of Portland, where the roots used to be dug up by the coimtry people, macerated and steeped. The powder so obtained was dried, and sent to London, where it was sold under the name of Portland Starch. Common Comfrey {Symphytum officinale). This plant has tuberculated roots and succulent stems, both abounding in farinaceous matter. When it is cultivated and the stalks blanched, they are not only wholesome, but agreeable. Earth Nut {Bunium bulbocastanum). A bulbous perennial. Its roots are eaten raw, and are considered a delicacy by some people. In Sweden they are highly esteemed, being made there an article of trade. Besides being eaten raw, the roots are sometimes stewed as chestnuts. Goat's Beard {Tragopogon pratcnsis). The roots of this plant are thought to be equal to those of the Viper's Grass or Spanish Salsify {xvhich see), if not superior. Marsh Clown's All-heal {Stachys palustris). A plant frequently met with in moist rich cornfields. It increases rapidly by means of its creeping roots, and forms on these, during the smnmer, a number of thickened, elongated, tuberous-looking buds, which are rich in a sweet farinaceous matter. When planted in a rich soil the roots become large and tender, and furnish a delicacy in the winter season. Meadow Sweet {Spircea Filipcndula). A perennial common is most meadows where the soil is boggy or inclined to peat. The tubers are ground and made into bread in Sweden. PLA ( 583 ) PLA Sago {Orchis Morio). Tliis is a plant particularly abundant in tho Vale of Gloucester. The powder of its roots is used in making the "beverage called salop. PiLEWORT [Ranunculus Ficaria). The young leaves are boiled in spring by the common people in Sweden, and eaten as greens. " The roots are sometimes washed bare by the rain, so that the tubercles appear above ground, and in this state have induced the ignorant in supor.stitious times to fancj that it rained wheat, Avhich these tubercles somewhat resemble." Silver-weed {Potentilla anserina). The roots of this plant are frequently eaten in Scotland, either roasted or boiled. They taste like parsnips. Solomon's-Seal {Polygonatum vulgare). The young shoots are boiled and eaten as greens. The roots are sometimes dried, ground, and made into bread. Tree Primrose, or German Eampion {CEnothera biennis). A native of Virginia, but naturalised in some parts of England. When the plant is cultivated like the carrot or parsnip its roots are crisp and sweet. Viper's Grass, or Spanish Salsify {Scorzonera hispanica). This plant was once believed to be an antidote to the bite of the adder : it is now used merely as a dietetic plant. The roots are fleshy and not unlike carrots and parsnips. When boiled their flavovir is very like that of asparagus. Edible Leguminous Wild Plants. Sea-peas (Pisum maritimum). The taste of the sea-pea is bitter and disagreeable : when more pleasant food is to be had it is therefore let alone. In 1555, however, when there was a great famine in England, the seeds of the seapea were employed as food, and by this means thousands of lives were saved. Wild Vetches {Lathyra, Vicia, and Ervum). The seeds of all the British species of these genera may be employed as peas. They are met with in hedges, woods, and cornfields, and are particularly abundant in dry seasons. Wild Plants that maybe employed as Salads. Ladies'-Smock. {Cardamine pratensis). The leaves furnish an agreeable acrid salad not unlike the American cress. Buckshorn Plantain, or Star of the Earth {Plantago coronopus). A hardy annual, a native of Britain, met with in sandy soils. It nsed to be cultivated as a salad herb, and employed like the common cress ; now, however, it is neglected, probably on account of its rank and disagreeable smell. Dandelion {Zeontodon Taraxacum). A native of Britain, a hard} perennial, well known to every one, and regarded by gardeners as a troublesome weed. It may be used as salad, and the root is much employed by the poor in some continental districts as a substitute for coffee. The young roots and also the blanched leaves, which considerably resemble those of endive, are sometimes eaten in France with thin slices of bread and butter. Ox-eye Daisy [Chrysanthemum Icucanthemum). A perennial plant common in dry pastures. Salad Burnet [Poterium Sanguisorba) . The leaves of the salad burnet smeU and taste just like cucirmber. Se. Bindweed [Convolvulus soldanella). This plant is plentiful on the sea-coasts, where the natives gather the tender stalks and pickle them. Stonecrop, or Orpine [Sedum telephium). The leaves of the stonecrop are eaten in salads like those of piu'slane, to which the French hold it to be equal. Sweet Cicely [Scandix odorata). The leaves of this plant used to be employed like those of the chervil. The green seeds ground small and used with lettuce and other cold salads impart to them a warm agreeable taste. Wild Plants furnishing a Substitute for Tea. Speedwell [Veronica spieata). This is occasionally employed as a substitute for tea : it is said to have an astringent taste like green tea. Spring Grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum). A decoction of this highly odoriferous grass is said strongly to resemble tea. Black-currant leaves also furnish a very good substitute for green tea, and those of Saxifraga crassifolia are reported to be used as tea in Siberia. Betonica officinalis is held by some to have the taste and all the good qualities of foreign tea without the bad ones. Miscellaneous Edible Wild Plants. Butterworth [Pinguicula vulgaris). InLaTpland and the north of Sweden the inhabitants poui- milk warm from the cow on this plant, thus giving it the consistency of cream. They then strain it immediately, and laj' it aside for two or three days till it acquires a degree of acidity. ' ' This milk they are extremely fond of ; and once made they need not repeat the use of the leaves as above, for a spoonful or less of it will coagulate another quantity of warm milk, and make it like the first, and so on as often as they please to renew their food. Cow-PARSNiP [Heraclcum sphondylium) . In Kamschatka, about the beginning of July, the natives collect the footstalks of the radical leaves of this plant, peel off the rind, and dry them separately in the sun. They then fasten them in bundles, and lay them up carefully in the shade. Shortly afterwards these di-ied stalks are covered over with a yellow saccharine efflorescence tasting like liquorice, and in this state they are eaten as a delicacy. The Russians not only eat the stalks thus prepared, but manage to get a very intoxicating spirit from them. Heath [Erica vulgaris) . The young tops of the heath are said to have been once used alone to brew a kind of ale, and even now the inhabitants of some of the Scottish isles manufacture a very potable liquor by mixing two-thirds of the tops of the heath with one of malt. Substitutes for Capers. Amongst these are the flower-buds of the marsh marigold, the young seed-pods of the common radish, and the unripe seeds of the garden nasturtium. Poisonous Plants to be avoided in searching FOR Edible Wild Plants. " The principal poisonous plants, natives, or growing in Britain," says Loudon, "are the following : the whole for obvious reasons ought to be known at sight by every gardener : PLO (581) PLO " Bitter poisons, for wMch acids, astringents, wine, spirits, and spices, are useful correctives : Chelidonium majus, Cicuta virosa, Colchicum autumnale, OEnanthe crocata, Cerasus Laurocerasus. The berries of the last-named are used for pies and puddings in the neighbourhood of ]\Ioor Park, Hertfordshire, but the leaves are deleterious. ' ' Acrid poisons, which should be counteracted by powei'ful astringents, as bark, and afterwards the stomach restored by soft mucilaginous matters, as milk, fat broth, &c. : Aconitum Napellus and Lycoctonum, Aetata spicata, lihus Toxicodendron. " Stupefying poisons, to be counteracted by vegetable acids and emetics: Jithusa Cyna*pium, Atropa Belladonna, Datura Stramonium, Hyoscyamus niger, Solanum Dulcamara and nigrum, Lactuca virosa, Apium graveolens. The two last-named plants, it is weU known, aiford, in a cultivated state, lettuce and celery, but wild, in hedges and ditches, they are poisonous. _" Foetid poisons, to be attacked by ether, wine, or acids : Conium maculatum, Digitalis purpurea, Helleborus foetidus, Juniperus Sabina, Scrophularia aquatica. " Drastic poisons, to be corrected by acids, alkalies, and astringents : Asclepias syriaca, Bryonia dioica. Euphorbia Lathyris and amygdaloides, Mercuriahs perennis and annua, Periploca gra3ca, Veratrum album." Plomb, Gateau de (see Gateau de Plomb). Plombiere's Ice. Blanch and peel six ounces of Jordan almonds and ten bitter ones. Dry them in a soft cloth, and pound to a smooth paste with a little orange-flower water. Stir this paste into a pint and a half of boiling milk, then press the liquid through a jelly-bag. Mix ten yolks of eggs well beaten with the milk, and stir the custard over a moderate fire until it begins to thicken. Take it off the fire, stir two or three minutes longer, and strain it once more through a tamis. When cold freeze it, and when it is ready for serving mould three rings of the iced cream, diminishing in size as they go up. Fill the centre with apricot jam, and serve. Time, about ten minutes to boil the custard. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Plover. Though several kinds of plover are loiown to naturalists, two species only are recognised in cookery the golden plover and the grey plover. The golden plover is the commoner, and the grey plover the larger of the two, though both are smaller than a woodcock. They are pleasantly-flavoured birds, and are best when roa-sted like woodcock without being drawn. In favourable weather they will keep good some time, and are better for being kept. They are at their best from September to January. The eggs of the plover are highly esteemed. Plover, Golden, Roasted. Truss like woodcock, and roast before a brisk fire. Put a slice of the toasted crumb of bread about half an inch thick imder the birds, and baste constantly with butter until sufficiently cooked. Serve the plovers on the toast, which "should be well saturated with the basting and the trail. Pom- some good gravy over them in the dish [see Gravy for Game). Time, nbout a quarter of an horn- to roast. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace for two persons. THE GOLDEN PLOVER. Plovers, Choosing of. Choose those birds which feel hard at the vent, which shows they are fat. In other respects plovers should be selected by the same marks as other fowls. When stale, the feet are dry. Plovers will keep a long time. In consequence of a peculiarity in the flavour of the plover, the bird is not universally liked ; by some, however, it is a favourite. The grey plover is superior, as game, to the green. Plovers' Eggs. Plovers' eggs are esteemed a great delicacy. They are usually boiled hard, and sent to table either hot or cold. If hot they should be placed on a napkin ; if cold in a moss-lined basket. They are frequently shelled, and served with good white sauce or brown gravy poured over them ; or used as a garnish for salads. Half a dozen plovers' eggs neatly arranged in a moss basket form a very pretty addition to the breakfast-table. One of the little baskets in which fruit is sold by the greengi'occrs may be utilised for the purpose. It should have a twist of wire fastened into it for a handle, then be brushed over with gum, and both handle and basket entirely covered with green. If no other moss is at hand, packets may be bought at the greengrocer's for a trifling sum. Time to boil the eggs, ten minutes. Probable cost, ?uncertain. Sufficient allow one or two for each person. Plovers' Eggs {see also Eggs, Plovers'). Plovers Fried with English TruflQes. Pluck foiu: plovers, and truss them as if for roasting. Lay them breast downwards in a stewpan, with four ounces of fresh butter and seven or eight raw trufiles which have been washed perfectly clean, wiped, pared very thin, and cut into slices about the size of a penny. Add two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a little salt and pepper. Stir the whole gently over a sharp fire for ten minutes, then pour in a pint of stock which has been smoothly mixed with a dessert PLO ( 585 ) PLTJ spoonful of flour, and a glass of sherry. Simmer gently by the side of the tire for twenty minutes, .and skim the liquid carefully. Place the birds on a hot dish. Boil the sauce quickly till it is thick and smooth, flavour with the strained juice of a lemon, add a small lump of sugar and half a tea-spoonful of browning, and pour it hot over the bu-ds ; serve immediately. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufiicient for five or six people. Plovers, Pie of. Pluck, draw, and skin three plovers, and truss them as for roasting. Lay half a pound of rump stealc c\it into convenient-sized pieces at the bottom of a moderate-sized pie-dish, and season these rather highly with pepper and salt. Lay the birds upon them, and beside each bird place the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Clean a dozen moderate-sized nmshrooms, cut the stalks ofl", and lay them at the top of the pie. Pour in half a pint of good brown gravy. Line the edges of the dish with puif-paste, cover it with the same, ornament prettily, make a hole in the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, -is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plovers, Roasted. Pluck a brace of plovers without drawing them, and wipe them well outside with a damp cloth. Truss them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs ; bring the head round under the wing. Put them down to a clear fire. Lay in the pan slices of toast, one slice for each bird, first moistening it in good gravy, and baste the plovers liberally. A few minutes before they are done di-edge a little flour over them, and let them be nicely frothed. Spread the trail which has dropped from the birds evenly upon the toast, and serve the birds upon it. A little melted butter may be sent to table in a tureen. Time to roast the birds, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. a brace. Sufficient for two pei-sons. Plovers, Stewed. Pluck and draw a brace of plovers. Mince the trail, and mix with it two ounces of finely-shred beef suet, four roasted chestnuts pounded, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and two artichoke bottoms boiled and minced; mix these ingredients thoroughly, and season rather highly with pepper and salt. Fill the birds with the forcemeat, and truss them as if for roasting. Put them side by side in a stewpan just large enough to hold them, pour over them threequarters of a pint of good brown gravy, and add a glass of port or claret, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-j nice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, three or four mushrooms, or, failing this, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little pepper and salt if required. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew gently for half an hour. Take up the birds, and put them in a hot dish. Strain the gravy, and thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening. If this is not at hand, a little may be made by mixing equal proportions of flour and butter, and stirring the paste quickly over a gentle fire for three minutes, then putting it into the sauce, and boiling it until smooth. Pour the gravy round the birds, and garnish the dish Avith plovers' eggs boiled hard, shelled, cut into quarters, and placed round it. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. per brace. SuflBLcient for two or three persons. Plum. The plum is an agreeable and refreshing though not very wholesome fruit. There are several varieties, and these may be cooked in a great many ways, all of which are generally acceptable. This fruit, if eaten when unripe or unsound, is almost sm-e to bring on diarrhoea. It is not so objectionable when cooked. Plum and Pear Ja-m without Sugar. Take half a pock of ripe pears, and another of ripe plums. Peel and stone them. Pour a cupful of good cider into a. preserving-pan with the fruit, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves. Let the mixture boil gently, with incessant stirring, until it is thick and smooth, and be very careful that it does not bum to the bottom of the pan. Pour it into jars, cover with brandied paper and bladder, and store in a cool dry place. Time, about two hours. Plum Beverage, French, for Invalids. Take half a dozen fine French plums. Put them into a stewpan with a pint of boiling water, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Pour them into a bowl. When cold take out the plums (which may be put aside for eating), sweeten the liquid according to taste, stir into it a table-spoonful of port, and it is ready for use. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Plum Buds, to Pickle. Throw the buds into plenty of hot salt and water, and let them simmer gently until they are soft. Strain the liquid from them, and let them get quite cold. Boil as much white-wine vinegar as wiU cover them, and flavour according to taste with mace and white pepper. Pour the liquid over the buds, and let them lie in it eight or nine days. Afterwards boil them in the vinegar until they turn gTeen. Pour them into bottles, and when cold cover closely, and store for use. Probable cost uncertain, plum buds being seldom offered for sale. Plum Buns made with Yeast. Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with three pounds of best flour. Rub into this three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter or good beef dripping. Put the mixture into a bowl, and make a hole in the centre. Moisten an ounce of German yeast smoothly and gradually with three-quarters of Ji pint of lukewarm water. If preferred, a quarter of a pint of good brewer's yeast may be substituted for the German yeast. Put the yeast into the hollow, and mix with it a little of the flour till it is like thin batter, then put it on the hearth for about an hour to sponge. Whisk two fresh eggs, and mix with them twelve ounces of moist sugar. Stir them into the yeast, and knead the dough thoroughly with a pint of warm milk. Cover with a cloth, and let the dough stand until it is lightly risen. It wiU require about an hour and a half. Add six ounces of well-washed and dried currants, mould the dough into buns PLTJ ( 586 ) PLU about the size of a large egg, place them in rows upon a buttered baking-tin, with fully three inches between them, and set them before the fire for about ten minutes to rise. Bake in a brisk oven for about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufiicient for about three dozen buns. Plum Buns without Yeast, Plain. Mix thoroughly a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda with a tea-spoonful of tartaric acid. Rub this and half a tea-spoonful of salt into two pounds of flour. Work in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a quarter of a pound of washed and di-ied currants, and, if liked, afew caraway seeds. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, and pour into this two eggs which have been well beaten and mixed with a pint of lukewarm milk. Stir all quickly with a knife, and when the dough is ready mould it into buns, place these on a buttered baking-tin, and bake in a brisk oven for a quarter of an hour or more. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufiicient for about two dozen bnns. Plum Cake. Mix a pinch of salt and a dessert-spoonful of baking-powder with one pound of flour. Rub into this a quarter of a pound of good beef dripping, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a pound of picked and dried cuiTants, one ounce of finely minced lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg grated. Make the mixture into a light dough wdth new milk, pour it into a buttered tin, and bake immediately for about an horn-. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. Plum Cake {see Currant Cakes). Plum Cake (another way). Beat one pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it three well-beaten eggs, two pounds of best flour, one pound of currants, one pound of sugar, five heaped tea-spoonfuls of bakingpowder, and a pinch of salt. Mix rather lightly with lukewarm mdk. Put the dough into buttered tins, and bake immediately. This cake is very good, but does not improve with keeping more than a day or two. Time to bake, one or two hours, according to the size of the tins. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for two or three cakes. Plum Cake, Excellent. Mix three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of salt with one pound of flour. Rub into this half a pound of butter, lard, or sweet beef dripping, or portions of each. Add threequarters of a pound of washed, dried, and picked currants, a quarter of a pound of stoned and chopped raisins, half a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of candied peel cut into naiTow strips, and a small nutmeg grated. Mix these ingi edients thoroughly. WTiisk two eggs for five or six minutes. Mix with them four drops of almond essence and a little milk new-milk-warm. Stir this into the flour, and add as much milk as will make it into a light dough. Put it into a large buttered tin, or two small ones, and bake immediately for one or two hours, according to the size of the tins. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a good-sized cake. I Plum Cake made with Soda. Rub a quarter of a jiound of butter into a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of washed and dried currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut into shreds. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then beat them into a jjaste with half a pint of milk. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in two tablespoonfuls of warm milk. Stir this into the dough, and beat it again thoroughly. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven from an hour and a half to two hours. Sufficient for a good-sized cake. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Plum Cake made with Soda (another way).' Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream. Add two eggs thoroughly whisked, four ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of carbonate of soda dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of warm milk. Beat the batter thoroughly, then work in gradually a pound of best flour and a quarter of a pound of washed and di-ied currants. Beat the dough thoroughly for several minutes, ?pour it into a buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven for about an horn-. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a moderate-sized tin. Plum Cake, New York. Prepare all the ingredients before beginning to mix the cake. First of all, wash and pick two pounds of currants, and put them to dry. Mix thoroughly a quarter of an ounce each of ground cloves, ground cinnamon, gi-ound mace, and grated nutmeg. Cut a pound of citron into thin strips. Stone two pounds of raisins, and chop them slightly. Beat separately the yolks and whites of eight eggs. Beat a poimd of butter to a smooth cream ; add a pound of sugar, the eight eggs, and, very gradually, keeping on beating all the time, one pound of flour, two pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, the powdered spice, and as much water as will make a smooth batter. If preferred, a wine-glassful of brandy or of rose-water and a wine-glassful of orangeflower water may be used instead of the plain water. Beat the cake fully three-quarters of an hour. Line the tins with two folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Two or three folds of paper should be placed under and over the cake, to prevent it burning. This cake may be iced according to the directions given above. Time to bake, about four hours if made in one cake. Probable cost, 6s., exclusive of the brandy or rose-water. Sufficient for one large or three small cakes. Plum Cake, Plain, for Family use. Take three pounds of best flour, and mix with it a dessert-spoonful of salt. Make a hole in the centre, and pour in an ounce of German yeast, which has been gradually and perfectly moistened and blended with half a pint of lukewaim water. Stir to this as much of the surrounding flour as will make a batter, then throw a cloth over the bowl, and put it near the fire for about an hour. When the yeast has risen to the top of the flour, cut up half a pound of butter, lard, or good beef dripping. Dissolve this in half a pint of hot milk, and add as much cold milk as will make PLU (587) PLTJ it new-milk-warm. A beaten egg or two may be added or not, and a grated nutmeg, or half an oimce of powdei-ed allspice. Put in half a pound of brown sugar, and knead all weU together, adding a little more milk if necessary. Cover it again, and set it to rise for about an hour, until it is very light, then add half a poimd of stoned and chopped raisins, and three quarters of a pound of washed and diied currants. Put the dough into half a dozen wellgreased tins, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain whether or not a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge the blade of a knife into the middle of it ; if it comes out clean the cake is done enough. Time to bake, one hour or more, according to the size of the loaves. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for six small or three moderate-sized cakes. Plum Cake, Plain, made with. Baker's Dough. Those who are not in the habit of making bread at home often find it difficult to do so. This difficulty may be easily overcome if they will procure a little dough from the baker's, and proceed as follows : Take two pounds of dough. Put it at once into a basin, cover with a thick cloth, and let it rise. Place it on a floured paste-board, sprinkle over it a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and add a quarter of a pound of lard or butter broken into small pieces, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of washed and dried currants, a few caraway-seeds, if liked, and a grated nutmeg. Knead thoroughly with as much lukewarm milk as is necessary. Butter some tins ; ialf fill them with the dough, place them on the hearth until the dough has risen so that they are three parts full, then bake the cakes in a wellheated oven. Plunge a knife into the middle of each ; when it comes out clean they are done enough. Time to bake, one to two hours, according to the size of the tias. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for three small loaves. Plum Cake, Rich. Put a pound and a half of butter iuto a good-sized bowl, and with the hand beat it to a cream. Mix with it the ?whites of eight fresh eggs whisked to a froth, and afterwards the yolks well beaten, and add a dessert-spoonful of salt, a pound of powdered sugar, a pound and a half of flour, two pounds of currants washed, picked, and diied, eight ounces each of candied lemon and citron cut into narrow strips, half an ounce of mixed spices, consisting of nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice, all pounded to a powder, haK a poimd of almonds, blanched and pounded, the rind of four oranges rubbed upon three or four lumps of sugar and then powdered. Add each ingredient separately, and beat it well in before adding another. A glassful of brandy may be stirred in if liked. If this cake is to be light, it should be beaten fully three-quarters of an hour. Line a tin with double folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. Put twelve folds of paper under the cake, and four or five on the top of it, to prevent it burning. Time to bake, three hours if made in one cake, one hour and a half each if made into two. Probable cost, 5s. 6d., without the brand}'. Sufficient for one large or two small cakes. Plum Cake, Rich, Icing for. liich plum cakes are much improved if they arc covered with almonds and sugar icing. They may then be used as twelfth cakes. The icing is prepared as follows : Blanch and peel half a pound of almonds. Pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, and whilst pounding add a few drops of orange-flower water to keep them from oiling. Mix with them one pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and add sufficient white of egg to make a soft paste. Bake the cake, and let it get cold. Spread the almond paste smoothly over it, and when it is hard cover with sugar icing about a quarter of an inch thick. To make the sugar icing, beat the whites of four eggs until they are frothy, only not white. Stir into them gradually one pound of finely -powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and add a few drops of lemon- juice occasionally, until the mixture presents the proper appearance. Spread the mixture evenly over the cake, and put it in a cool oven or hot screen until it is dry and hard. Ornament it in any way that fancy suggests. Eaised and mottoed ornaments may be fastened upon it, or a small portion of the icing may be made thicker with a little more sugar, and then be squeezed through the small end of a piece of paper twisted in the form of a sugarhsig, to make a piping. Plum Cheese, made from Plums which have been used for Jelly. Skin and stone the plums from which the juice has been strained. Weigh them, and boil them until dry. Mix one pound of powdered loaf sugar with every three pounds of fruit, and boil it again until the pulp leaves the sides of the pan with the spoon. Press it into shallow moulds, cover it as jam is covered, and store in a cool dry place. Time to boil, one hour and a quarter to boil the fruit by itself, half an hour to boil it with the sugar. Plum Jam. The directions for making various kinds of plum jam are given under the nam.e of the plum itself. There are so many varieties of this fruit, and these difi:er so much in quality and sweetness, that hardly any general recipe can be given. Nevertheless, as there are numerous occasions, especially in towns, where fruit is bought without its distinctive name being known, the following instructions are given, as it will answer for most kinds of the fruit. It must be remembered that when the plums are very hard and sour a larger proportion of sugar will be required. Di\'ide the plums, and take out the stones; or, if preferred, merely gash them with a silver knife, and remove the stones as they rise in the pan. Spread the plums out on large dishes, sprinkle over them three pounds of sugar to every four jDounds of fruit, and let them remain for twenty-four hours. Put them into a preserving-pan, and let them simmer gently for half an hour, stirring constantly to keep them from burning. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, afterwards boO. them quickly for a quarter of an hour. If liked, a few of the stones can be cracked, and the PLU ( 588 ) PLU kernels peeled and added to the jam two or three minutes before the jam is taken from the fire. Pour the jam into jars, and cover in the usual way. Plum Jam without Sugar. Take a gallon of ripe elderberries. Strip them from their stems, put them into a deep earthen jar, place this in a saucepan of water, and keep it boiling until the juice flows freely. Press the juice through a strainer, put it into a preserving-pan with two gallons of dry ripe plums (mussel plums arc the most suitable for the purpose), a quarter of an ounce of powdei-ed cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves, and six inches of thin lemon-rind finely minced. Let the jam boil gently for two hours or more until it is thick and smooth : stir freqiiently to keep it from burning. Tiu-n it while hot into stone jars, and when it is cold pour boiling mutton suet over it, or cover with brandied paper and bladder. Store ia a cool dry place. Plum. Jelly.- Take four pounds of sound, ripe, red plums. Boil them in four quarts of water until the liquid is reduced to three pints. Strain through a jelly-bag, and with each pint of juice put a pound of sugar. Boil the syrup until it jellies. Pour into small jars, and cover in the usual way. Or, put the plums into a deep earthen jar, cover it closely, and set it in a pan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling imtil the plums yield their juice readily. Pour the juice from them, strain, and measure it ; then boil it quickly for twenty-five minutes. " Put with it three pounds of sugar for every four pints of juice, and boil a quarter of an horn- longer. In either of the above cases the plums from which the juice has been strained may be sweetened and used for common pies ; or they may be made into plum paste for dessert. Plum. Kalteschale (a German dish for hot weather). Take one pound of sound ripe plums. Put them into a deep earthen jar, sprinkle over them a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and pour half a pint of water over them. Tie two or three folds of paper over the jar, and set it in a pan three-parts full of boiling water, which must be kept boiling until the plums are quite soft ; then lift the jar out, and put it aside until the next day. Press the pulp through a tamis. Crack the stones, and boil the kernels with the thick part which will not pass the strainer, half a stick of cinnamon, and two cloves in half a pint of water for twenty minutes. Strain the liquid into the fruit. Add a little sugar to taste, and wine claret for red plunis, and light Rhine wine for green ones with a little more water, if liked. Serve the fruit in a compote dish, with a slice of toast cut into dice, and thrown when cold into the fruit. Time, two days to prepare. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Plum. Loaf, Plain. Put two poimds of best flour into a bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a pound of picked and dried currants, four ounces of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. Dissolve half an ounce of German yeast very gradually in three-quarters of a pint of lukewarm milk, in which has been dissolved four- ounces of butter or good beef dripping. Stir this into the flour, and knead it to a smooth dough. Put a cover over the bowl, and set it to rise for about an hour. Make it up into a loaf, put it into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. If preferred, a table-spoonful of solid brewer's yeast or three table-spoonfuls of baking-powder may be used instead of the German yeast. In order to ascertain whether the loaf is snfficiently baked, put a skewer into it ; if it comes out clean and dry, the cake is done. Time to bake, one horn-. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufiicient for a goodsized loaf. Plum Lozenges for Dessert. Put a pound of ripe and sound Orleans plums into a jar, and place them in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire until they are so soft that the stones can be removed. Whilst this is being done, soften in the same way half a pound of cored and sliced apples. Turn both plums and apples into a preserving-pan. Put with them the juice of half a lemon and three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and boil quickly for three-quarters of an hour. Stir well to keep the fruit from burning. Pour the paste upon shallow dishes, and when it is cold cut it into lozenges, and dry these on a sieve before the fire. Keep them between, sheets of writing-paper in a tin box. Plum Marmalade. Pick the stalks from the fruit, weigh it, gash it with a silver knife, and put it into a preserving-pan. Let it simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft, lift out the stones as they rise to the surface, and keep the plums well stii-red to prevent their burning. Press tlie pulp thi-ough a coarse sieve. Mix with it three pounds of powdered sugar to every four pounds of fruit, allowing for the weight of the stones, and boil gently six or eight minutes longer. Pour the marmalade into jelly-i ots, and cover closely. Plum Paste Sweetmeats. Put the plums into a preserving-pan with just enough water to cover them, and let them simimer until quite soft. Strain the juice from them, and pass them through a sieve. Stir the pulp over the fire until it is quite dry. Great care will be required to keep it from burning. Weigh it, and mix one pound of powdered sugar with each poimd of pulp. Stir it again over the fire until it leaves the pan with the spoon. Spread it out on a shallow dish, and as soon as it is cold stamp it into squares, diamonds, or rounds, and put these in a warm place until they are quite dry. When cold, store them in layers in tin boxes, with a sheet of writing-paper between each layer. If preferred, the paste may be kept in small jars, and covered over like jelly. Plum paste may be made of the plums from which jelly has been made. Time, according to the quality of the plums. Plum Porridge or Broth. Plum porridge was a favourite dish two hundred years ago, but it is now almost obsolete, as it has been superseded by plum pudding. The following is a recipe of Queen Anne's time : PLU ( 589 ) PLU Take ten pounds of the shin of beef, and two pounds of the neck, and boil these in three gallons of water for five hours. Strain the Hquor, and skim carefully. Put it back into the saucepan, with three pounds of stoned raisins, three pounds of stewed prunes, and two pounds of currants, and let the fruit boil gently for an hour. Take the crumb of a twopenny loaf, dip it into the liquid, and beat it smoothly with a fork. Mix with it the pulped prunes, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves, haK an ounce of grated nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace. Put this mixtui-e into the soup to thicken it, and boil for a quarter of an hour, stirring all the time to keep the soup from burning. Add sufficient sugar to suit the taste, a little salt, a quart of claret, and half a pint of sack. Cut some white bread into dice. Lay it in a soup tureen, put a piece of the meat over it, pour in the broth, and serve. Plum Pudding, Apple {see Apple Plum Pudding). Plum Pudding, Baked. Shred finely half a pound of beef suet. Mi.x with it a saltspoonful of salt, a, pound of flour, a heaped tea-spoonful of baking-powder, half a pound of picked and dried currants, half a pound of stoned raisins, one ounce of candied peel cut into thin strips, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Moisten them with an egg beaten up with as much milk as will make a thick batter. Pour this into a buttered dish, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Turn the pudding out before serving, and strew powdered sugar thickly over it before sending it to table. For a plain pudding, the egg and half the fruit may be omitted. Time to bake, from an hour and a haK to two hours. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plum Pudding, Baked, without Suet. Grate finely half a pound of the crumb of a stale loaf. Pour over it half a pint of boiling milk, and beat into it whilst warm four ounces of butter. Let it stand until cold, then add a quarter of a pound of picked currants, a quarter of a poimd of chopped raisins, three ounces of moist sugar, an ounce and a half of candied peel cut into shreds, half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a pinch of salt. Beat all these ingredients smoothly together; add two well-beaten eggs and a table-spoonful of brandy if Hked. Pour the mixture into a buttered moiild, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn the pudding out before serving, and sift powdered sugar thickly over it. This pudding can be steamed instead of baked. "When this is done, the basin which contains it should be put into a saucepan upon a plate which has been turned upside do-svn. Boiling water, three inches deep, should be poured round it, and this should be kept boiling until the pudding is done enough. It is very good cold. Time to bake or steam, an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plum Pudding, Christmas {see Christmas Plum Pudding). Plum Pudding, Cottage {see Cottage Plum Pudding). Plum Pudding, Economical. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely ; noix with it three-quarters of a pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of bread-crimibs, half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, half a pound of currants, half a pound of moist sugar, the peel of a lemon finely shred, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughl) , and stir in with them six weU-beaten eggs and as much milk as is required to make a stiff paste. Put the pudding into a floured cloth, and tie it up, not too tightly, but leaving room for it to swell. Put it into a pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly for five hours. Do not turn it out of the cloth until just before it is to be served. Send sweet sauce to table in a tui-een. If preferred, three eggs only may be used, and three heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. Probable cost, Is. 6d. SufiB.cient for five or sLx persons. Plum Pudding, Excellent, Take six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and mix with them a pound of flour, a jwund of finelyshred beef suet, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a. pound of raw sugar, three-quarters of a pound of stoned and chopped raisins, three-quarters of a pound of currants, two ounces each of candied lemon, orange, and citron cut into shreds, a quarter of a pound of apples pared, cored, and chopped, half an ounce of mixed spice consisting of pounded cloves, cinnamon, and grated nutmeg, and half a tea-spoonful of finelyminced lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then make the mixture into a stiff batter by adding to it five eggs beaten up with half a pint of milk and a glass of brandy. Turn the pudding either into a cloth or a mould; if the latter is used, it must be filled quite full, and covered with a cloth. Put the pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. Sift powdered sugar over the pudding before serving it, and send brandy sauce or whip sauce to table in a tureen. Time to boil, five hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Plum Pudding, Family. Beat four eggs thoroughly. Mix with them half a pint of new milk and a tea-spoonful of salt. Then stir in half a pound of beef suet finely shred, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, four ounces of currants picked and dried, four ounces of brown sugar, a grated nutmeg, and an ounce of candied peel cut into strips. Stir these ingredients well together, and pour in another half -pint of milk ; then add equal quantities of grated crumb-ofbread and flour, to make a stiff paste. Half an ounce of almonds blanched and chopped small, a little more candied peel, and a few more currants, may be added if liked, but if the pudding is too rich it will not be so likely to turn out properly. It may be boiled either in a cloth or in a mould. In a cloth it will be more quickly cooked; it wiU look better if boiled in a mould. A glassful of brandy and a dessert-spoonful of noyau stirred into the sauce greatly improves this pudding. Time to PLU ( 590 ) PLU boil, four to five hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Plum Pudding, Prench {see French Plum Pudding). Plum Pudding, Hedgehog. Grate one pound of stale bread very finely, and mix with it half a pound of dried iiour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a pound of currants carefully cleaned and dried, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a j)ound of beef suet finely minced, two ounces each of candied lemon, citron, and orange, half a jjound of brown sugar, the rind of a large lemon rubbed upon sugar and crushed to powder, a small nutmeg grated, an ounce of sweet almonds, and three bitter ones blanched and cho Dped small. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly; moisten them with eight eggs well beaten up and mixed with a glass of brandy or a glassful of ale. If preferred, milk may be used instead of the ale, but no more liquid should be employed than is required to moisten the pudding. Tie the pudding in a mould or cloth, put it into a large pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. If a mould is used, the pudding should entirely fill it. Turn it out, and when it is dished stick over it, as thickly as possible, three oimces of almonds which have been already blanched. This pudding will keep for six months after boiling. It will only require to be boiled again for an hour before being used. Time to boil, ten hours. If the pudding is allowed to simmer only, the sweetness -will go into the water. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pliim Pudding, Plain. Shred six ounces of suet very finely, add a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of cui-rants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly ,'and stir into them threequarters of a pint of milk in which has been dissolved three table-spoonfuls of treacle. Tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil it until done enough. A little spice and sugar may be added if liked. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plum Pudding, Sauce for. Plum pudding when served at Christmas is generally sent to table with brandy only poured over it and lighted. At other times, or when sauce is required, sweetened melted butter, flavoured or not with brandy, may be served in a tureen, or any of the following sauces : Rich Sauce. Take two spoonfuls of pounded lumji sugar, and, if liked, a pinch of grated lemon-rind. Put it into a bowl by the side of the fire, and pomover it a table-spoonful of brandy and two ounces of clarified butter. When the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour in another tablespoonful of brandy, and a glass of sherry. Stir the sauce a minute, and pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen. If liked, the mixture may be stirred into a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter, and sent to table with a little nutmeg grated over it. Time, five or six minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Almond Sauce. Blanch an ounce of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, and pound them to a smooth paste with a table-spoonful of orange-flower water. Mix with them three ounce.-; of powdered sugar, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. Stir the sauce until it is well mixed. Add the yolks of two eggs, and stir it over a slow fire until it begins to thicken. Whisk it to a froth, and serve. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for fout or five persons. Arrowroot Sauce. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot to a smooth paste with two table-spoonfuls of water. Add two tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar and a third of a pint of milk or water. Stir the sauce over the fire until it boils. Flavour with wine, liqueurs, or any kind of flavouring. Time, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d., made with water and flavoured with lemon. Sufficient for four or five persons. Plum Pudding with Apples. Chop four ounces of apples very small; mix with, them four ounces of currants cleaned and dried, two ounces of raisins stoned and chopped, four ounces of the crumb of bread finely grated, a heaped table-spoonful of loaf-sugar, and half an ounce of candied peel. Stir into the mixture one ounce and a half of clarified butter and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered mould, or tie it in a cloth, and boil until it is done enough. This pudding is better if mixed the day before it is wanted. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four persons. Plum Pudding without Eggs. Shred finely four ounces of beef suet; add a pinch of salt, a table- spoonful of flour, half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, six ounces of currants, picked and dried, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and a little candied peel. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, then stir into the mixture as much milk as will make a stifiE batter. A table-spoonful of brandy may '.be added or not. Tie the pudding in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. This pudding may, if liked, be baked instead of being boiled. Time to boil, four hours. Probable cost, 7d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Plum Pudding without Suet (another way) . Break three eggs into a bowl, and whisk them thoroughly. Mix smoothly with them three ounces of flour, and add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, half a small nutmeg grated, and, very gradually, half a pint of milk flavoured with lemon-rind. Beat the mixtare for some minutes. Put in three ounces of grated breadcrumbs, three ounces of raisins stoned and chopped, three ounces of currants picked and dried, and three ounces of butter broken into small pieces. When the pudding is well mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, tie a cloth over it, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Send brandy sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two and a half hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plum Sauce for Puddings and Sweet Dishes. Wash and stone the plums. Break the stones, and simmer the kernels in as much water as will barely cover them until the PLU (591 ) PLU liquid is strongly flavom-ed with them, then strain it, and put it aside until wanted. Place the fruit in a saucepan with as much water only as will keep it from burning. Add a glass of claret, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, and a slice of toasted bread, and simmer all gently together until the plums are quite soft. Press the whole through a coarse sieve, add the liquid from the kernels and as much sugar as ?wUl sweeten the sauce. If it is too thick, stuin a little more water before serving. Time, according to the quality of the plums. Sufficient, half a pint of sauce for five or six persons. Plum Sauce, Simple, for Sweet Puddings. Wash and stone a pound of ripe red plums. Put them into a saucepan vnth a quarter of a pound of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water. Let them boil to a pulp, and stir them occasionally to prevent their burning. Press them through a coarse sieve, and serve them in a tureen or poured over the pudding. Time to boil the plums, about half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Plum Soup (a German dish). Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a small stewpan, add an ounce of flour, and stir the mixture smoothly together imtil it is lightly coloured. Pour over it a quarter of a pint of boiling water, add a little cinnamon for flavoiu-ing and as many ripe plums as the liquid will cover. Boil the plums to a pidp. Press all through a sieve. Sweeten the juice, and mix with it equal portions of water and claret until it ia of the consistency of thick cream. Return the soup to the saucepan. Throw into it a dozen or more ripe plums. When these are soft, without being broken, serve immediately. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d. a quart, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Plum Tart. Line the edge of a tart-dish with puif-paste or with good short crust. Fill the dish 'nath plums, and sprinkle a little moist sugar over them. The quantity of sugar required will depend upon the quahty of the plums. Cover the dish with pastry, bake in a moderate oven, and serve the tart hot or cold. The appearance of the tart will bo improved if it is glazed. To do this, take it from the oven before it is quite done enough. Brush it over with white of egg which has been whisked to a froth, and cover with finely-sifted sugar. Sprinkle a few drops of water over it, and return it to the oven to set the glaze. Almost all kinds of plums may be used for tarts. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost. Is. for a moderate-sized tart. Sufficient for four or five persons. Plum. Tart, French (see French Plum Tart). Plum Vol-au-vent. Boil six oimces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water for ten minutes. Take off the stalks from a poimd of plums, wash and drain them, and then put tliem into the sjTup. Let them boil up once, then draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer them very gently for about throe minutes, or until they are quite tender without being broken. Lift the plums oi-.t carefully, boil the sjTup until it is considerably reduced and very thick, strain it, and when cold pour it over the fruit. Plums prepared in this way may bo used for large and small vol-au-vents. The fruit should not be put into the pastry untH the moment before it is to be served. Plum Wine. A wholesome wine is occasionally made from plums with or without other fruits and ingredients. Plums, Compote of. Boil half a pint of water with from six to ten ounces of loaf sugar for ten minutes. Put in a pound of plums, and let them simmer until they are tender without being broken. Lift them out, place them on a compote dish, and pour the syrup over them. The amount of sugar used, and the length of time the fruit is boiled, must be regulated by the quality of the plums. Plums, French, or Dried. French plums (known in France as pruneaux) are made from fresh fruit which has been slowly and carefully dejirived of its moisture, by being: placed alternately in the sunshine and in an oven. These plums are the object of a considerable trade in different parts of France, particularly in the Touraine and the Agenois. They are exported in large quantities to other coiintries, and are considered exceedingly wholesome. They may be had aU the year round, but they are mostly used for dessert in winter time, when fresh fruit cannot be obtaimed. They may be bought either loose, in bottles, or in pretty ornamental boxes which are intended ta be placed upon the table. Probable cost, Is. to 2s. i er pound. Plums, French, Stewed for Dessert. Take a pound of French plums. Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water as. will cover them, and let them simmer gently for an hour. Lift out the fruit, strain the liquid, and make a sjmip of it by boiling with it fom* ounces of loaf sugar. Vhen it is quite clear, put in the plvuns, the rind and juice of half a lemon, and a glass of port. Stew gently for an hour and a half. When the preparation is cold, put the plums into a glass dish, pour the syrup over them, and serve. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plums, French, Stewed (another way). Sec French Plums, Stewed. Plums in Vinegar. Take three pounds of mussel plums, soimd and ripe, and rub them with a soft cloth. Boil a pound of loaf sugarin a pint and a half of vinegar, with a dozen cloves, and a quarter of an ounce of stick cinnamon. Put in the plums, a few at a time, and let them simmer gently. As the skins crack, lift them carefully out, and put them on dishes to cool. When they are cold lay them in a deep jar, and shake them to make them lie closely together. They ought not to be at aH soft. Boil the vinegar and sugar a few minutes longer, then pour it out, and when it is cold strain it over the plvmis, which it ought to cover entireh'. Leave the jar in a cool place for a week. At the end of that time strain off the s\Tup and boil it. If the plums are hard, pour the sjTup hot over them, if soft, let it get cold PLU ( 592 ) PLTJ first. Cover the jars in the usual way, and store in a cool place. If liked, half a pint of claret may be put with each pint of vinegar. Time, eight days. Probable cost, 2s. Plums, Magnum Bonum {see Magnum Eonums). 1. Yellow Magnum IBonum. 2. Golden Drop. 3. Greengage. Plums, Magnum Bonum, PreSGrved. Magnum bonum and other tine plums may be boiled into a jam in the usual way, or preserved whole like apricots, or as follows : Take fine ripe, sound fruit. Pare them, and in order to do this more easily throw them into boiling water for a minute. If they are not fully ripe, they - -ill need to simmer gently for two or three minutes. Take a pound of sugar to each pound of frxiit. Dissolve in a little water, skim carefully, and boil until it is almost candy height. Throw in the plums, and let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Lift them out carefully, strain the sjTup over them, and let them lie for two days. Boil them again until they look quite clear, put them into jars, cover with the syrup, tie the jars up, and store in a cool, dry place. Time, three days. Boil the plums the last time about ten minutes. Plums, Orange, To Preserve (see Orange Plums). Plums, Orleans, To Bottle for Winter Use {see Orleans Plums, to Bottle for Winter Use). Plums Pickled like Olives. Take some hard green plums which have been gathered before the stone was formed. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely cover them -svith a table-spoonfid of salt and half an ounce of mustard-seed to each pint of the liquid. Pour it hot over the fruit. Let it stand until the next day, then ch-ain it off, boil again, and repeat the performance. When the plums are quite cold, put them into bottles, cover with vinegar, tie up securely, and store in a cool, dry place. Plums Pickled like Olives (another ?way). Boil together some diU and fennel-seed in a mixture of white-wine vinegar and water. Put the plums into this while hot, let them simmer a little, set them on one side to cool, and then preserve in pots. Plums, Preserved Dry. Divide the plums, take out the stones, and put them into a syrup made with half the weight of the fruit in sugar boiled with as much water as will disgolve it. Keep the plums covered with the syrup, and let them simmer very gently until they are tender without losing their shape. Lift the pan off the fire, and let the fruit stand in the syrup until the next day. Strain the syrup, boil it up with more sugar, so that there may be an' equal weight of sugar and fruit, and let it boil almost to candy. Pour it out, and let it get cold. Put it back into the pan with the fruit. Let it sunmer gently for a few minutes tmtil the plums are quite soft. Let them remain in the sjTup for three days, drain them, and spread them singly on dishes to dry. Time, five days. Or, j ut the plums whole into a syrup made with their weight in sugar and as much water as will dissolve the sugar. Let tliem boil gently for about twenty minutes, then let them remain in the syrup until the juice flows freely, and boil them a second time. Lift out the plums carefully, one by one, put them into deep jars, and pom- the S3Tup over them. Leave them until the next day, drain them, and spread them singly on dishes to di-y. Or, take plums which are fully gTown but not ripe ; prick them, put them into a pan of cold water, and let them remain until it is on the point of boiling. Let them cool, and drain them in a sieve. Take as many pounds of sugar as there are of fruit, and boil it to a strong sj'rup with as much water as will dissolve it. Put the plums in, and boil them gently for twenty minutes. The next day boil them again until the sugar is ready to candy. Pour the plums into deep jars, and let them stand all night in a cool oven. Let them get cold, then lift them out, and spread them singly on dishes to diy. Plums, Preserved, for Making Pies. Di\'ide the plums, and take out the stones. Put them into a deep jar, place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil gently until the juice flows freely. Then with each pound of the fruit put an ounce of crushed loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved by the hot juice, i our the whole into wide-mouthed glass bottles. Cover the tops closely, and store in a cool place. Plums preserved in this way win keep for a short time on]y. Time, about an hour. Plums, Quiddamy of. Take a pound of plums and remove the stones. Boil the fruit, with an equal quantity of loaf sugar, in a quart of plum- juice ; keep boiling till the contents of the pan are of the consistency of jelly; then pour into pots, and cover in the usual way. Plums, Varieties of. There are said to be nearly 300 varieties of plums. The damson or Damascene plum takes its name from Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and from whence it was introduced into Italy about 114 B.C. The Orleans plum is from (093) PLU France. The greengage is so called after the Gage family, who first brought it to this country from the monastery of the Chartreuse at Paris, where it went under the name of Reine Claude. The magnum bonum is our largest plum, and in great request for jireserves and for culinary piu'poses. The wild sloe is thought by some to be the parent of the plum ; the acclimated kinds, however, came from the East. The cultivation of the plum was probably attended to very early in England, as Gerard tells us he had in Ms garden in Holborn, in 1597, a gTeat variety of sorts. We extract the following list of dessert plums, arranged in the order of then- ripening, from a " Descriptive Catalogue of Plums cultivated in Britain," given some years ago by a well-known botanical authority : Name. Size. Colour. Ripeni'. Jaune hative Medium Yellow End July. Precoce de Tours Medium Purple Beg. Aug. Morocco Medium Purple Beg. Aug. Royal hative Medium Puri le Beg. m. Aug. Nectarine Large Purple Beg. Aug. Drap d'or Small Yel. Green Mid. Aug. Fotheringham Medium Purple Mid. Aug. Greengage Medium Yel. Green Mid. e. Aug. Blue Perdrigon Medium Puii le End Aug. Wliite Perdrigon Medium Pale Yellow End Aug. Virgin Medium Puii)le Beg. Sept. Wh. Impdratrice Medium Pale Yellow Beg. m. Sep. Diaprde Eouge Large Red. Violet Beg. m. Sep. Washingtou Large Yellow Sept. D'Agen Medium Purple End Sept. Heine Claude Medium Piuijle Sept. Violette Jefferson Large Orange Red Sept." Large Gr. Drying Large Green. Yel. Mid. e. Sept. Coe'sGoldenDrop Large Yellow Sept., Oct. Blue Imperatriee Large Puiijle Oct. Ickworth ditto Medivun Pui-ple Oct. Coe's fine late red Medium Purple Oct. The following is a list of kitchen plums, from the same source, arranged in the order of their ripening : Name. Swe. Colour. Uipens. Early Orleans Medium Purjile Beg. m. Aug. Gisborne's Medium Yellow Mid. Aug. Mirabelle Small Pale Yellow Mid. Aug. Orleans Medivim Purple Mid. e. Aug. Sbropsh. Damson Small Purple Mid. Seirt. Wine Sour Bel. Md. Piu-ple Mid. Sept. Red Magnum Large Pui-psh.Red Sept. Bonum White Magnum Large Yellow Sept. Bonum St. Catherine Medium Yellow Mid. e. Sept. In connection with the first of the above lists, it is to be remarked that the greengage, perdrigons, and more especially Coe's golden drop, although classed as dessert fruit, are also proper for preserving. PlumSjWholesomeness of. "Plums," remarks Professor Martj'n, " when sufiiciently ripe, and taken in moderate quantity, are not unwholesome; but in an immature state they are more hable to produce colicky j ains, diarrhoea, or cholera, than any other fruit of tliis class. Considered medicinally, they are emollient, cooling, and laxative, especially prunes, and what are called in England French plums (brignoles), which are peculiarly useful in costive habits." Plumbe's Arrowroot. Tliis arrowroot w.i.s iirst introduced into this country by John A\'illiams, the well-known missionary to the .South Sea Islands. It is very suitable for 39 breakfast, luncheon, dinner, supper, &c., and can be made into tempting puddings, custards, jellies, and such like articles, as may be seen from the following recipes. For childi-en's food it is excellent. Plumbe's Arrowroot Biscuits. Rub together three-quarters of a pound of sugar and the same weight of butter until they rise ; beat three eggs well mixed with these ingredients, then stii' in four table-si oonfuls of arrowroot and two cups of sifted flour. Roll the mixture out, cut the biscuits with a pastry cutter, place them in buttered tins, and bake in a slow oven. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot. Is. 6d. per pound. Plumbe's Arrow;root Blanc-Mange. Take one quart of milk, and mix with it four ounces, or four table-spoonfuls, of arrowroot, flavour to taste, and boil the whole for four minutes, stirring all the time. Allow the blancmange to cool in a mould, and send milk and jell}", or milk and sugar, to table with it. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot, Is. 6d. per pound. Plumbe's Arrowroot BreakfastCakes. Mix together two cupfuls of arrowroot and half a cupful of flour, add a tablespoonful of salt butter, one egg, and as much milk or water as will bring the whole to the consistency of paste. RoU out the paste, cut it with a breakfast-cup, and put the cakes in a baking-iron. They vdll be baked enough in a few minutes. Split and butter them, and send them to table hot. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot, Is. 6d. per poimd. Plumbe's Arrowroot Cream. Take one ounce of arrowroot, one quart of milk, and three ounces of lump sugar. Mix the arrowroot with a little cold milk and the yolk of an egg, stirring it well and breaking the lumps. Boil the milk with the peel of a lemon and a little cinnamon, sweetening it with the sugar ; pour it boiling hot over tlie arrowroot, stir well till cold, pour into glasses, and serve. Plumbe's Arrowroot Custard. Take one quart of milk, mix with it two ounces of arrowroot, one or two eggs well beaten, and add a little butter and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste. Boil the custard four minutes, pour it into a pie-dish, and brown before the fire. This is an exquisite delicacy. Plumbe's Arrowroot Custard Pudding. Beat up two or thi-ee eggs with a smaU dessert-spoonful of arrowroot ; sweeten with loaf-sugar, and add seven di'ops of essence of almonds. Pour on this mixture a pint of boiling milk take care that the milk really boils and bake inimediately for half an hour in a quick oven. Plumbe's Arrowroot Gruel. Take a dessert-spoonful of aiTowroot, and mix with it a wine-glassful of cold water. Pour on this a pint of boiling water ; sweeten with moist sugar, flavour with a little nutmeg, let the gruel simmer on the fire for five minutes, and ! then add a table-s230onful of brandy. I Plumbe's Arrowroot Jelly (Invalid I Cookeky). This is a nutritious and restoring PLU (594 POE jelly for invalids. Mix in a tumbler a piled tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a little cold water; pour upon it sufficient boiling water to form a clear jelly, stirring well Avhilst the water is being pom-ed on it ; last of all add a glassful of sherry. Plumbe's Arrowroot Omelet. Beat up two eggs, and nrix with them one tablespoonful of arrowroot and a tea-cupful of milk ; add a little pepper and salt, and sugar, if preferred ; thi-ow the whole into a flat saucepan, previously well heated, and covered with melted butter. Keep the saucepan in motion over the fu-e, then turn the omelet several times ; roll it up, and keep it in motion till it is slightly browned. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot, Is. 6d. 23er pound. Plumbe's Arrowroot Pudding, Baked. Take about four table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, or three and a half oimces, and add to it one quart of milk. Boil for four minutes, stirring briskly. Allow the pudding to cool, and then thoroughly mix into it two eggs well beaten, A\'ith three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste, and bake for half an hour in an oven, or brown the pudding before the fire. Probable cost, Pliunbe's arrowroot. Is. 6d. per pound. Plumbe's Arrowroot Sponge Cake. Take a quarter of a pound of arrowroot, a quarter of a pound of butter, and two teaspoonf Ills of baking-powder, and mix these ingredients very well together. Take three eggs, and beat the yolks and whites separately for fifteen minutes, then add to them a quarter of a pound of bruised white sugar ; mix all well together, flavour to taste, beat for fifteen minutes, put the cake into a buttered tia papered all round two inches deeper than the tin, and bake in a quick oven for an hour. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot. Is. 6d. per pound. Plumbe's Arrowroot Thickening for Soups, &C. To tliicken soups take one ounce of arrowroot, and very gradually add sufficient liquid to make it of the consistency of batter ; that it may be smooth, moisten sparingly at first, and beat with the iDack of a spoon till every lump has disappeared. Boil the soup quickly whilst the thickening is being stirred into it, and let it simmer for ten minutes afterwards. One ounce of arro'wroot is sufficient for one quart of soup. To thicken gravies, sauces, and stews, the arrowroot should be used in the same way as in thickening soups, but scarcely so much should be employed. Probable cost, Plumbe's arrowroot, Is. 6d. per pound. Podovies, or Beef Patties. Take half a dozen slices of under-di'cssed roast beef, with a small portion of fat, slii-ed it finely, and season it vnth. pepper, salt, and a little chopped onion or shallot. Roll out a quarter of a pound of pufE-paste very thin. Lay spoonfuls of the mince upon it, an inch apart, and moisten the pastry round the meat with a httle water. Cover with a piece of pastrv. Press together the portion round each little' ball of mince, and stamp rounds out with a cutter. Pinch the edges, and fry the patties ia hot fat imtil they are brightly coloui'ed. Drain them on blotting paper, and serve pUed high on a dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, a dozen for two or three persons. Podovies, or Beef Patties (another way). Mince very finely two or three slices of under-dressed cold roast beef. Mix with the meat a third of its bulk in fat, and season with a little pepper and salt, and a finely-minced shallot, and, if the flavour is liked, an anchovy cut into small pieces. Prepare the patties according to the directions given in the preceding recipe, fill them with a tea-spoonful of the miace, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time, ten to fifteen miautes to bake. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Po?le. Poele is a kind of rich gravy which is used in expensive cookery to boil various meats in instead of water. It is especially suited for fowls, tm-keys, sweetbreads, and similar meats which are in themselves a httle insipid. The same poele may be used three or f om- times, and in favourable weather vnll keep several days. For ordinary domestic use it is a quite unnecessary expense. To make it, proceed as follows : Take a poimd of fat bacon and a pound of lean ham, two pounds of veal, two carrots, and two onions, all cut up into dice. Put them into a stewpan with a poimd of fresh butter, and stii' constantly until the bacon is half melted. Add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, two bruised bayleaves, thi-ee or four cloves, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and three or four young onions. Pour LU three pints of boiling water, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently for an hour and a half or two hours. Strain through a sieve, and press the meat and vegetables well, to draw out their juices. Keep the poele in a cool place until wanted. Pooling. Take a pound of beef suet, one of fresh butter, and one of very fat bacon ; cut the suet and bacon into very large dice, and put them in a stewpan with two pounds of veal cut in the same manner ; fry them till the veal becomes white ; moisten with tlu-ee pints of clear boiling water, a handful of salt, a bayleaf, a few sprigs of thyme, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bundle of jparsley and green onions. Let the whole boil quietly till the onion is done ; strain it through a sieve, and set it bj' for use. Poele is employed to make everything boiled in it look white, and acquire a rehshing taste ; it will keej) - r a week. Do not boil any lean of bacon wi iiit, or the meat boiled in it will turn red, from the saltpetre used in curing the bacon. Poeling and braising are almost the same operation ; but in the former, meat must be miderdone, in braising overdone. Webster and Parkcs. Poet's Recipe for Salad (generally ascribed to the Rev. Sydney Smith) : through kitchen ?' Two boiled potato sieve. Softness and smoothness to the salad give ; Of mordant mustard add a single spoon. Distrust the condiment which bites too soon; Yet deem it not, thou man of taste, a fault To add a double quantity of salt ; POI ( 595 ) POL Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procm'ed from town ; The flavour needs it, and yom- poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs ; Let onions' atoms liirk within the bowl. And, scarce suspected, animate the whole ; And, lastly, in the flavoured compound toss A magic tea-spoon of anchovy sauce. Oh, great and glorious I Oh, herbaceous meat I 'T would tempt the dying anchoret to eat ; Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And dip his finger in the salad-bowl. Then, though green turtle fail, though venison's tough, And ham and turkey are not boiled enough, Serenely full, the epicm-e may say, 'Fate cannot harm me I have dined today.' " Poivrade Sauce (a very good sharp sauce). Dissolve two ounces of butter over a gentle fire, and put with it a small slice ,of ham cut into dice, a scraped carrot, a turnip, an onion, a shallot, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, a small sprig of thj Tue, a stick of celery cut small, and twenty peppercorns. Stir these ingi-edients over the fixe till thej are nicely browned, then add gradually a wine-glassful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of port or sherry, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and half a pint of good browoi sauce. Simmer gently by the side of the fire, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and serve hot. When thick brown sauce is not at hand, dissolve one ounce of butter in a saucepan, mix an ounce of flouismoothly with it, and stir quickly over a slow fire for thi-ee or four minutes, or until it is nicely browned. Moisten gradually vnth. a little broth, or failing this, water, until the sauce is of the consistency of thick cream. Boil it a minute or two, and it is ready for use. The quantity of vinegar used in this recipe may be increased or diminished, according to taste. Time, half an hour to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Sufiicient for six or eight persons. Poivrade Sauce (another way). Take a slice of lean ham, and cut it into dice. Put it into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and add a carrot, a turnip, a shallot, and two yoimg onions, all finely sliced, together with a blade of mace and six or eight peppercorns. Stir these over a gentle fii-e until they are slightly browned, then add very gradually four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, three table-spoonfuls of port, a lump of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer all gentlj' together until the sauce is smooth, thick, and nicely flavoui-ed, then strain, and serve immediately. When brown sauce is not at hand it may be easily made by mixing over a gentle fire equal proxjortions of butter and flour, stirring the mixtuxe constantlj- until it is slightly browned, and then moistening it with boihng stock or even water. Time to boil the sauce, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the port. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poivrade Sauce, Easily made. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan with two onions, a shallot, a carrot, a turnip cut into dice, two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme. Stir these ingredients constantly over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned, then dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour over them, and add a little pepper and salt, a glass of claret, half a glass of vinegar, and a glass of water. Boil all gently for half an hour. Skim, strain, and serve. Time, ten minutes to fry the vegetables. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the wine. Polenta. Indian corn-flour, which is very commonly used in Italy, is sent to various parts from that country, and sold under the name of polenta. In taste it much resembles macaroni, for which it is often used as a substitute. Semolina is frequently and advantageously used for the preparations which go by the name of polenta. Polenta (a I'ltaUenne). When made with Indian meal, put a quart of milk into a saucepan with a tea-spoonful of salt. Let it boil quickly, then drop into it very gradually as much Indian meal as will make it quite thick, stirring briskly all the time. Let it boil until quite smooth, then turn the polenta into a buttered mould, and mix with it an ounce of grated Parmesan. Stir briskly, and bake for a quarter of an hour. The polenta may be turned out or not. When made with semolina, boil a quart of milk with half a tea-spoonful of salt. Drop into it. about a quarter of a pound of scmoliua, stirring briskly all the time, and let it boO. gently for ten minutes. Be very careful to prevent it burning. When quite thick, pom- into a plaiu mould, and set it in a cool place to stifi'en. Cut it into shces threequarters of an inch thick. Butter a fresh plain mould. Pour into it a small quantity of clarified butter, and then a layer of grated Parmesan. Place on this a layer of slices of paste, and another layer of cheese. Moisten the mixture with a few drops of biitter, and repeat until the.paste is used, and the dish is almost full. Place a thick layer of the cheese at the top, and a little more clarified butter, then bake the preparation in a moderate oven until it is brightly browned. Turn it upon a hot dish, and serve. A little grated cheese is sometimes sent to table on a dish with the polenta, or a little brown gravy is poured reurxd it, but it requires neither. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sitfiicient for six or eight persons. Polenta, Italian (see Italian Polenta). Polenta Pudding, Sweet. Bon the milk and the polenta as in the last recipe. When the mixture is quite smooth and thick, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, four oimces of stoned raisins, an ounce of candied peel finely shred, half a nutmeg grated, and an ounce of butter. When the ingredients are well niixed, pom- the preparation into a buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. Turn the pudding out before serving-. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for six or seven persons. POL ( 596 ) POM Polenta Pudding (to be eaten with meat). Boil a pint and a half of milk, and di'op into it -\-cry gradually, stirring hriskly all the time, half' a pound of polenta or maizeflour. Boil, and stii- until the mixture is quite thick and smooth, then stii' in a httle pepper and salt, and an ounce of fresh butter. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake in a good even. Turn the pudding out before serving. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Polish Cutlets. Take a pound of tender rump steak not more than an inch thick ; cut it into neat rounds, and beat these flat with a cutlet bat. Mince finely two shallots, or a moderate-sized onion, and, if liked, add haH a clove of garlic. Put these ingredients into a stewpan with two oimces of butter, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and thi'ee bruised cloves. "When the onions are tender, without being at all browned, lay the cutlets upon them, cover the saucepan closely, and let them steam very gently imtil they are quite tender. If the gravy dries, add one or two spoonfuls of stock, or even water. When the cutlets are done enough, lift them out, and place them on a hot dish. Skim the gravy. Dredge a little flour into it, and colour with burnt sugar or, better still, put a nut of brown thickening into it let it boil two or three minutes, and strain it over the meat. Put a bordering of fried sliced potatoes roimd the dish, or place a few mashed potatoes in the centre, and serve very hot. Time to steam, about an hour. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for two or three persons. Polish. Pudding. Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds and six bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth jjaste, adding a few drops of water to prevent their oiling. Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of new milk, and bring the liquid slowly to the boil. Mix two table-spoonfuls of arro-wi-oot very smootUy with half a pint of cold milk. Pour the boiling milk upon this, and stir briskly for a minute or two. Add two ounces of fresh butter, and two well-beaten eggs, and stii- the mixture again until it is cool. Put it into an oiled mould, and set it upon ice, if possible ; if not, lay it in a cool place until it is wanted. Turn it out before serving, and send hot plates to table with it, and the foUo'wdng sauce in a tureen: Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add two ounces of powdered sugar and two glassfuls of sherry, and mix thoroughly. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and stir gently until it boils. Serve immediately. Time, six or eight hours to set the pudding, if it is not put upon ice. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the sherrJ Sufficient for fom' or five persons. Polish Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. Put an ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar into a stewpan, and when the sugar is dissolved stii- in a tea-spoonful of fine flour. Let it brown, then pour in four table- spoonfuls of claret, add a tea-spoonful of stoned and chopped raisins, a tea-spoonful of picked and washed currants, the eighth of a small nutmeg grated, an inch of thin lemon-rind, and half a dozen almonds blanched and cut small. Simmer the sauce gently, until the currants are soft, and serve. Time to simmer, a quarter of an horn-. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Polish Tartlets. If a Little piece of pufi; paste is left after making vol-au-vents, or tarts, or any other articles of that sort, it may be advantageously used as follows : EoU out the pastry till it is very thin, and cut it into pieces a little more than two inches square. Moisten the surface of these with a little water, and fold over the corners so that they will all meet in the centre. Put a little ball of pastry in the centre of each, and press it lightly down with the finger. Brush the tartlets over with egg, sprinkle a little powdered sugar upon them, and bake in a hot oven. Before serving, put a little brightcoloured jam round the little ball of pastry, and serve the tartlets on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of puff pastry for a moderate-sized dish. Polish Tea. Pub two or three large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a large fresh lemon until all the yellow part is taken oft". Add a httle more sugar to make up two ounces, and crush the sugar to powder. Strain over this the juice of the lemon, add two wine-glassfuls of white wine, and cover the syrup until it is wanted. Put a pint of ale into a saucepan with four inches of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes, then stii- into it a dessert-spoonful of arrowioot which has been made into a paste with a little wine. Add the syrup, and a little more sugar if required, and simmer the Liquid a few minutes longer, stirring constantly. Draw the tea from the fire for a minute, and whisk into it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with a little wine. Before serving, add a glass of maraschino. Time, twenty minutes to simmer the tea. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine and liqueur. Sufficient for almost a quart of Pohsh tea. Polpetti, Italian (we Italian Polpetti). Pomegranate. This is the fruit of the pomegranate tree {punica granatum), a plant which grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. The fruit is a pulpy many-seeded berry, the size of an orange, covered -with a thick brown coriaceous rind. Its value depends on the smallness of the seed and the largeness of the pulp. The pulp is of a reddish hue, and has a pleasant sub-acid taste ; it is very refreshing. The singular and beautiful appearance of the fruit contributes to the variety of the dessert ; pomegranates, being powerfully acid and astringent, are used medicinally in fevers and inflammatory disorders. The pomegranate is a native of most parts of the South of Europe and of China. In Languedoc, and some parts of Italy, it is employed as a hedge plant. It was cultivated in England, Loudon informs us, by Gerard, in 1596; but though it grows very well in the open air, it seldom ripens its fruit so as to render it wortli anything. The finest pomegranates, called by POM ( -597 ) POM the Persians badana, or seedless, are imported into India from Cabul and Candahar, where the tree grows in i crfection. The fruit brought to this country from the South of Europe and the West Indies is very inferior to that of Persia. The pomegranate, in addition to its valuable qualities, possesses great historic interest. POMEGRANATE AND FLOWEK. "We find it often mentioned in the Bible, where it is included in the fruits of Palestine, with the vine, the fig, the olive, and other ' pleasant fiuits.' It likewise grows wild in Baxbary. PHny says that the Romans brought it from Carthage in the time of Sylla. It was likewise well known to the ancient Greeks, and held in great esteem by them. The story of Proserpine is familiar, who, having been carried off by Pluto, was prevented from returning to the earth in consequence of having tasted of this fruit in the Elysian fields. Pomegi-anates are frequently represented in ancient sculpture." The name pomegranate is dei-ived from "pomum granatum," a kernelled apple. Pomegranate Water. Carefully take out the deep-coloured pips from three ripe pomegranates, and bruise them well vtAYl the back of a wooden spoon. Mix with them six ounces of roughly-powdered sugar, the strained juice of a lemon, three-quarteis of a pint of ?water, two or three drops of cochineal, and half a dozen drops of the essence of elder flowers if it is at hand ; if not, it may be dispensed with. Filter the liquid until it is clear, and it is ready for serving. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, pomegranates, 4d. to Is. each. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of pomegranate water. Pomegranate Water Ice. Take the ruby pips from two ripe pomegranates. Place them on a fine sieve over a basin, and bruise them wcU with the back of a wooden spoon to draw out the juice. With half a pint of this mix half a pint of strong syrup, the juice of a large fresh lemon, two or three drops of cochineal, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and the rind of an orange which has been rubbed upon two or three large lumps of sugar and crushed to powder ; freeze in the usual way. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, pomegranates, 4d. to Is. each. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of water ice. Pomfret Puddings. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is taken off. Add a little more sugar to make the weight up to a quarter of a pound, then crush the sugar to powder. Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream. Add a pinch of salt, two well-whisked eggs, the powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of flour, and beat the mixture briskly for two or three minutes. Three parts fill some small cups with it, and bake in a brisk oven. When the puddings are done enough, turn them out upon a hot dish, and send wine sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Suificient for half a dozen cups. Pomme Mange. Take two potmds of apples weighed after they are pared and cored. Cut them into thin slices, and put them into a saucejaan with the thinly-cut rind of two small lemons, half a pint of water, and one pound of loaf sugar. Boil the fruit until it is stiff and dry. Beat briskly for a minute or two, take out the lemon-rind, and press the apples into an oiled mould. Put it aside until cold, and turn out before serving. Time, varying with the quality of the apples. Probable cost, lOd. Sufiicient "for a moderate-sized mould. Pommes, Gateau de (*? Gateau de Pommes) . Pomona Jelly. Take half a dozen goodsized and rather acid apples Keswicks will answer excellently for the purpose. Pare, core, and slice them, and as they are done throw them into cold water to keep them from turning yellow. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with six ounces of loaf sugar and a very small quantity of water to keep them from burning, and let them simmer gently until they are quite soft. Press them through a coarse sieve, and mix with them half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolve in less than half a pint of water. Rub thre large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a fresL lemon till the yellow part is taken off ; add this to the jelly. Stir the jelly over the fire until it is quite hot, put it into a mould, and set it in a cool place to stiffen ; turn out before serving. Time to stiffen, twelve hours. Probable cost, lOd. if made with gelatine. Sufficient for a pint of jelly. Pompadour Pudding, Rich. Pour a third of a pint of boiling cream upon two ounces of finely-grated bread-cnmibs, and let them soak until cool. Beat well with a fork, and mix with them five ounces of finely- shred beef suet, an oimce of flour, two ounces of macaroons crushed to powder, three ounces _ of powdered sugar, two ounces of table raisins weighed after the stones are taken out, two ounces of dried cherries, four ounces of candied peel cut into thin slices, the grated rind of half a lemon, half a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt. When thes? ingredients are well mixed, stir in the yolks of four eggs and a glassful of brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould" which it will fill to the brim, cover wdth oiled paper, and tie securely in a floured cloth. Boil or steam the pudding until it is done enough, let it stand a minute or t-.vo POIT ( 598 ) POO ?before tiu-ning it out, dish it carefully, and serve at once. If liked, the pudding can be additionally flavoured, and will be improved liy boiling in the cream before it is poured over the crumbs three ounces of blanched sweet almonds and three bitter ones. Before sending the pudding to table, pour over it a sauce prepared as follows: Make two glasses of sherry hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it over "a large table-spoonful of powdered and sifted sugar, and when this is dissolved stir into it the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Wliisk the sauce briskly over a gentle fire, and when it begins to thicken and is lightly frothed it is ready. Time to boil the pudding, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the sauce and brandy. Sufficient for a pint mould. Pontiff's Sauce. Take a quarter of a pound of veal and a quarter of a pound of ham cut into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of carrots, a quarter of a i ound of parsnips, a quarter of a pound of celery, and a quarter of a pound of onions, all sliced, and a quarter of an ounce each of lemon rind, shallots, and corianderseed. Pour over these ingredients a pint of vin-egar and half a pint of ketchup, and simmer all very gently for three or four hours. About ten minutes before the sauce is taken from the fire put with it half a pint of white wine. Skim and strain the liquid. "VVlien it is cold, put the sauce into small bottles. Cork these securely, and store for use. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the wine. A small portion of the pontiff's sauce to be used for flavouring sauces and gravies. Pooloot, Indian {f er Indian Pooloot.) Poor Epicure's Pudding. Put two pints of new milk into a saucepan with four inches of stick cinnamon, half a dozen blanched and sliced almonds, the thin rind of a lemon, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Bring it slowly to the boil ; strain and add to the milk a pinch of salt and a little sugar. If Swiss milk is lased sugar will not be required. When the milk is cold, mix with it three well-beaten eggs. Pom- the custard into a buttered pie-dish, and lay on the top slices of bread the third of an inch thick. These should be thickly buttered on both sides, should be entirely free from crust, and should cover the milk entirely. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. Suflicient for five or six persons. Poor Knight's Pudding. Cut two penny rolls into slices three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay them on a dish, pour over 'them half a pint of milk, and let them lie until the bread has soaked up all the milk. Make a little custard with three-quarters of a pint of milk, three eggs, a little sugar, and grated nutmeg. Pour half of this over the slices of roll. Fry in butter until they are brown. Put them on a hot dish, and pour the rest of the custard over thern. Send butter and sugar to table with them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable cofit, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Poor Man's Galette {see Galette, Poor Man's). Poor Man's Jelly. Take a cow's heel properly prepared by the butcher. Cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with three quarts of cold water. Cover closely, and let it simmer gently for six or seven hours until the liquid is reduced to three pints. Strain, and let it stand until stiff. Take the fat from the top, and clear it off entirely by rinsing with a little warm water and pressing with blotting-paper. Take out the jeUy, being careful to leave behind the sediment, which will have settled at the bottom. Put the jelly into a stewpan, with the thin rind and strained juice of two lemons, a pint of Scotch ale, or, if preferred, two glassf uls of sherry, and eight or nine lumps of sugar. Stir the jelly over the fire, and as it melts mix vith it the well-whisked whites and crushed shells of three eggs. As soon as the liquid begins to get hot cease stirring, and do not touch it again. Let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour after it reaches the boiling point. Draw the saucepan away from the fire, and let it stand to settle for twentj" minutes longer. Pour it, two or three times if necessary, through a jeUy-bag which has been rung out of boiling water. If, however, the directions given have been closely followed, the jelly can scarcely fail to be clear after once straining. Turn it into a damp mould, and let it stand until firm. Sufficient for two quarts of jeUy. Probable cost, 6d. per pint, exclusive of the wine or ale. Poor Man's Sauce for Cold Meats. Pick a handful of young parsley-leaves, and chop them small. Put with them a tablespoonful of chopped shallots, or a dozen younggreen onions finely minced, a tea-si30onful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, put them into a tureen, and pour over them two table-spoonl\ds of salad-oil and four of ineg?ar. Stir all together and serve. If liked, a table-spoonful of pickled French beans or gherkins cut small may be added to the sauce. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Poor Man's Sauce (another way). Mince an onion or two or thi-ee shallots finely. Frjr it in a little dripping until it is tender ; then pour over it a glass of \-inegar and a glass of water or broth, and add a little jsepper and salt. Let the sauce simmer gently a few minutes, and serve. A table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added or not. This sauce may be served with yoimg roast turkey. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Poor Man's Soup. The dripping which is used for making soup should be taken out of the tin almost as soon as it has drojjped from the meat. If any cinders have accidentally dropped into it, it should be clarified. Throw four tablespoonfuls of beef dripping into two quarts of boihng water. Add an ounce of butter, a pound and a half of raw potatoes sliced, and a little pepper and salt. Boil for an hour. Take the heart of a yoimg cabbage, break it into small pieces, throw it into the soup, and let it boil POO ( 599 POU quickly until it is done enough. Serve immediately. Send toasted sippets to table on a separate dish. If, instead of water, the liquid in which meat has been boiled can be used, the soup will, of coui'se, be much improved. Sufficient for live pints of soup. Probable cost, Id. per pint. Poor Man's Soup (another way). Slice two onions, and cut four ounces of bacon into dice. Fry these in two ounces of good beef dripping until they are lightly browned. Add a large carrot, a turnip, a leek, and three or four outer sticks of celery, all cut into thin pieces. J'ry for a few minutes longer. Pom- in six quarts of water. Let the liquid boil, then throw in a little more than a pint of split peas, which have been soaked for several hours in cold water. Simmer the soup gently until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Press through a sieve. Eeturn the soup to the saucepan, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint, half a table-spoonful of pepper, and half a pound of flour mixed smoothly with a pint of water. Boil half an hour longer, and serve. If preferred, the mint can be served separately at table, and taken or not according to individual taste. Time, varj-ing with the freshness of the peas, usually about four- hours. Sufficient for twelve or fourteen people. Probable cost. Id. per quart. Poor Man's Soup, Dr. Kitchiner's. Wash a quarter of a pound of Scotch barley in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into a large stewpan with four ounces of sliced onion and five quarts of water. Boil the liquid, skim it, and let it simmer gently for an hour, then pour it out. Put into the pan two ounces of clear beef di-ipping and two ounces of fat bacon cut into dice. When these are melted, stir in four ounces of oatmeal, and rub these to a smooth paste viath the back of a wooden spoon. ?\\Taen well mixed, add the barley liquid very gradually, first by spoonfuls. Stir frequently until it boils. Season with salt, pepper, and a little allspice; boil a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. If liked, the flavour of this soup can be varied by frj-ing a larger portion of onion or a little caiTot and celery with the bacon. Time, two and a half to three hours. Probable cost. Id. per quart. Sufficient for a dozen people. Pope, or Ruffe. This is a small freshwater fish, closely allied to the perch. It is to be met with in all the rivers and canals of England, its favourite haunt being slow shady streams. It gTeatly resembles the perch in flavoui-, being firm, delicate, and well-tasted, and is excellent broiled in buttered paper. Pope's Posset. Blanch eight ounces of sweet almonds and six or eight bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar with a few drops of water to prevent them oiling. Put them into a pint of cold water, and bring the liquid slowly to a boil. Strain, and mix with it a bottle of white wine boiling hot. Add sugar to taste, and serve. Time, about half an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a quart jug. Porcupine Meat { ce Meat, Porcupine). Porcupine Pudding. Wash a quarter of a pound of the best Carolina rice in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with half a pint of cold milk, a little sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, or any other flavouring that may be preferred. Boil verj' gentl}' until the rice is quite tender and has absorbed aU the milk. The time required dll depend in a great measure upon the quality of the rice, but fully an hour should be allowed for it. "\Mien it is quite dry, turn it out, beat it well with a spoon to a smooth paste, mix -nith it three well beaten eggs, and turn it into a well-oiled mould. Cover it, and steam it by placing it on a plate turned upsidf" down in a saucepan with about three inches of water round it. lilst it is steaming, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, cut them into shreds, and throw them into cold water to preserve their colour. Turn the pudding out upon a dish, stick the almonds all over it, and pour round it a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured custard. Time to steam, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. exclusive of the custard. Sufficient for four or five persons. ' Pork. Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of it \ill probably have to pay dearly for their indulgence. It is generally understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. " Tien it is possible, therefore, it is always safest to obtain pork direct from some farm where it has been fed and killed. When this cannot be done, it should either be purchased from a thoroughly respectable and reliable person or dispensed with altogether. Pork is best in cold weather. It is in season from November to ]\Iarch. It should be avoided during the summer months. The fat should be white and fii-m, the lean finely grained, and the skin thin and cool. If the skin is thick, the pig is old ; if it is clammy, it is stale ; if any kernels are to be seen in the fat, the pig was diseased at the tinie it was killed. Pork should not be allowed to hang more than a daj' or two before it is cooked, as it will not keep unless it be salted. If cooked quite fresh, however, it will be hard. The head, heart, kidneys, liver, &c., should be cooked as soon as possible. Care should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, as it is most indigestible when under-dressed. A porker, or pig which is to be cut up for fresh pork, is generally killed when it is from six to nine months old. A bacon pig is allowed to grow older and bigger. The manner of cutting up the pig varies in different parts. A porker is generally divided as follows : 1. Spare- Eoasted. To be lOd. to lO d. rib. cooked whilst per pound, fresh. 2. Hand. SUghtly salted and 8d. to 9d. boiled. Gene- per pound. rally too fat for roasting. 3. Belly, or Slightly salted and 9d. to lOd. spring. boiled, or salted jjer pound, for bacon. POR POR 4. Fore To be jointed and 9i d. to 10, d. loin. roasted. Cut into per pound, chops, used for curry or for pies. 5. Hind Ditto, ditto. lid. per loin. pound. 6. Leg. Eoasted, or salted lOd. to lid. and boiled. Most per pound. e c n o m i c a 1 joint. Head. StufEed like a 5d. to 6id. sucking-pig and per pound. roasted, or cheeks salted and boiled. The rest of the head, vvith the tongue, feet, and ears, salted and made into brawn. Fry, in- To be cooked as 5 d . per eluding soon as possible. pound, the liver, heart, kidneys, &c. Feet. Salted, boiled, and Ud. to 3d. served with each. parsley sauce. A bacon pig is cut up differently. The chine is in some parts cut from the centre of the pig the whole length from the tail to the neck. In other parts the meat which is taken from the upper part of the S2)ine, between the shoulders, is called the chine, and the hind loin the griskin. The chine may be salted and boiled, or roasted. It is highly esteemed. The hind leg is salted and cured, and called ham; the fore leg is generally left with the side, and salted for bacon. The spare rib is sometimes cut out, oftener it is left with the bacon. Sometimes the meat for bacon is cut off from the shoulder-blade and bones, and the latter, with very little meat on them, are divided into chines, spare-ribs, and griskins. The inner fat is melted down for lard. In pickling pork great care must be taken that every part is basted regularly and turned about the brine. If any portion is long exposed to the air it may be spoiled. Pork (a la mode) . Large pork, such as portions of the shoulder, loin, or spare rib, of large bacon hogs, may be cooked as follows : Rub the joint with pepper and salt, and put it into a large saucepan which has a closely-fitting lid. Add two or three onions and carrots, with half a dozen sticks of celery, four sage-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of marjoram and thyme, and as much stock or water as will cover the whole. Let the liquid boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for three or four hours, according to the size of the joint. When the pork is done enough, lift it out, put the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the pork. When the pork is removed from the table, trim it neatly, place it on a clean dish, strain and thicken the rest of the gravy, and pour it over the meat. It wiU be ready for serving when cold. Time to boil the pork, twenty-two minutes per pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Pork and Apple Pie. Cut the pork in thin slices, and season these with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Fill a pie-dish with alternate layers of these, and of apples which have been pared, cored, and sliced. Add a little sugar for sweetening, and as much white wine as will moisten the contents of the dish, and place two or thi-ee good-sized lumps of butter upon the top. Cover the whole with a good crust, and bake in a hot oven. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one hour and a half. Pork, Belly of. The belly of pork is. generally either pickled and boiled, or salted and cured for bacon, and it may be dressed asfollows : Take the belly of a porker, either fresh or salted, lay it, skin dowTiwards, flat on the table, and sprinkle over the inside a savoury powder made of two table-spoonfuls of finelygrated bread-crumbs, two table- spoonfuls of powdered sage, a tea-spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and two finely-minoed shallots. Roll the meat tightly round, bind it with taj e, and either bake it or roast it. It may be served hot with brown gi-a\'y, or allowed to grow cold, and then be i ressed. Time to roast or bake, twenty minutes per pound. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Pork, Belly of, Rolled and Boiled. ? Salt a belly of pork ; young meat will be the best for the purpose. To do this, mix a saltspoonful of powdered saltpetre with two tablespoonfuls of common salt, sprinkle the mixture over the pork, and let it lie for three days. When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay it, skin downwards, on a table, remove the bones, and cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into very thin slices. Sprinkle over these a little powdered mace and pepper. Roll the meat tightly, and bind secm-ely with tape. Put it into a saucepan with two onions stuck with six cloves, thi-ee bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly to the boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, and simmer gently till the meat is done enough. Put it between two dishes, lay a weight upon it, and leave it until it is quite cold. The bandages should not be removed until the meat is to be served. Time to simmer, half an hour per pound. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Pork Black Puddings. When black puddings or blood puddings are liked at all they are generally liked very much. They are boiled in the intestines of the hog, and these must of course be very carefully prepared for them as follows : Empty them, wash and scrape them in several waters, turning them inside out two or three times, and lay them in salt and water all night. The next day rinse them in fresh cold water, and they will be ready for use. To make the puddings, throw a little salt into a quart of the warm blood, and stir until the blood is cold. Mix with it a quart of \v]i(j1l' groats which have been soaked in POR ( 601 ) POR cold water all night, add the grated crumb of a quartern loaf which has been soaked in two quarts of hot milk until the milk was absorbed. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Prepare a seasoning of a tea-spoonful of winter savoury mLx.ed with a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme, a tea-spoonfid of chopped onion, half a tea-spoonful of penny-royal, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, haK a dozen pounded cloves, half a nutmeg grated, and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded allspice and ginger. Stir this seasoning into the groats, breadcrumbs, and blood, and add three pounds of finely-chopiJed beef suet and six well-beaten eggs'. Cut half a pound of the inward fat of the pig into pieces the size of a large bean. Tie the skins at one end, and turn them inside out. Half fiU them only with the mixture to allow room for swelling, and put in the fat at regular intervals. Tie them in equal lengths or rounds, fasten the ends securely, throw them into boiling water, and when they have boiled for five minutes take them out, prick them to let out the air, put them back, and boil gently for half an hour. Take them up, and when they are cold hang them in a cool di-y place until wanted. When they are to be used, boil a few minutes in water, and toast in a Dutch oven. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pork Black Puddings (another way). Prepare the skins. {Sec the preceding recipe.) Put a little salt into the warm blood, and stir until it is cold. Boil a qiiart of half grits until tender in as much milk as will co ?er them all the time. Drain them, and mix witli them half a poimd of bread-crimibs which have been soaked in hot milk until all the milk was absorbed, a pint of cream, and as much blood as will make the pudding a dark colour. Add a pound of finely shred suet and a dessert-spoonful each of chopped sage, thyme, marjoram, penny-royal, and onion, with a table-spoonful of parsley, and a seasoning made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, six cloves, and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. Mix all thorouglily with eight wellbeaten eggs. Cut two pounds of the inward fat of the pig into pieces the size of a large bean. Half fill the skins, put in the fat at regular intervals, and tie the pudding in equal lengths. Put these into hot water, boil five minutes, then prick and boil them again half an hour. Serve as before directed. Probable cost, os. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pork Black Puddings (another way). Sec Black Pudding, Arc. ; also Pig's Blood. Pork Black Puddings with Onions. Prepare the skins according to the directions given in the last recipe but one. Put a tablespoonful of vinegar into a quart of wai-m blood, and stir until it is cold. Cut four ounces of the inward fat of the pig into dice, and mix with this two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, a quarter of an ounce each of allspice and ginger powdered, and six ounces of minced onions which have been fried until tender in a little dripping or lard. Add the blood, and mi.x thoroughly. Half fill the skins, tie them in equal lengths, and boil very gently until they are done enough. In order to ascertain when they have reached the proper point, prick them with a large needle. If nothing but fat follows the needle, take them up, lay them on a napkin to cool, and hang them in a cool dry place. When they are wanted, simmer them for ten minutes, cut them into thin slices, and fry them. Time to boil, about twenty-five minutes. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Pork Black Puddings with Rice, Stir a little salt in a pint and a half of warm blood till it is cold. Add the grated criunb of half a quartern loaf, and six ounces of Carolina rice which has been boiled until tender in a quart of milk. Mix thoroughly, add the seasoning mentioned in the preceding recipe, with three ounces of the inward fat of the pig cut into dice, one pound of finely-shi-ed beef suet, and four well-beaten eggs. Half fill the skins, boil, hang, and serve as before ; these puddings are very good when they are lightly broiled instead of being fried. Time to boil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pork, Bladebone of, The bladebone of pork with very little meat upon it is occasionally cut from a fully-grown bacon hog. It is best broiled over a quick fire until the meat is done through. A minute before it is taken from the fire a little pepper and salt should be sprinkled over it. Serve on a hot dish with a tea-spoonful of mustard mixed with a piece of butter the size of an egg laid upon the meat. Time to broil, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d. to 9d. per pound. Pork Brawn. Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and two pig's feet. Clean and wash them, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of salt over them, and let them drain until the following day. Dry them with a soft cloth, and rub into them a powder made of six ounces of common salt, six ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of saltjjetre, and three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper. Dry the powder well, and rub it into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and feet: turn them over and rub them again every day for ten days. Wash the pickle from them, cut off the ears, and boil them with the feet in a separate saucepan with as much cold water as will cover them. They will require to be boiled one hour and a half before the head, and afterwards may be put with it. Put the head and tongue into a stewpan, cover -wath cold water, and let them boil gently until the bones will leave the meat. Take them up, drain them, cut the meat into small pieces, first removing the bones from the head, feet, and ears, and the skin from the tongue ; do this as quickly as possible. Season the mince with a tea-spoonful of white pepper, three salt-spoonfuls of powdered mace, one salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and one salt-spoonful of cayenne. Stir all well together, press the meat while still warm into a brawn tin, and lay a heavy weight on the lid. Put it in a cool place until the following day, dip the mould in boihng watei-, turn the brawn out, and serve on POR 602 ) POR u neatly-folded napkin. Vinegar and mustard should be served with pork brawn. Time to boil the head, four or iive hours ; the feet and ears, six hours and a half. Probable cost of head, 5d. to 6 d. per pound. Sufficient for a good-sized breakfast or luncheon dish. Pork, Breast of, with Rice. Wash one pound of best rice, and boil it in a quart of water for five minutes. Drain it, and put it aside. Cut a pound of the breast of pork, fat and lean together, into dice. Fry these in two ounces of butter till they are lightly browned, then add the rice, thi-ee pints of stock or water, and a little pepper and salt if required. Simmer all gently for half an hour, and stir the mixture occasionally to keep the rice from burning to the bottom of the saucepan. Serve all together on a hot dish-ndth a pound of fried sausages laid round it. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the sausages. Pork Cheese. Take four pounds of rather under-dressed cold roast pork, one poimd of which should be fat, and the rest lean. Cut it into small neat pieces, and season rather highly with pepper and salt. Chop small six or eight large sage-leaves, and mix with them two table-spoonfuls of minced parsley, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thvme, half a teaspoonful of powdered marjoram, foiu- blades of powdered mace, a tea-spoonful of minced lemonrind, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. Put the meat into a mould, sprinkle the savoury powder in with it, and just cover it with strong, nicely-flavoured gravy. Bake in a moderate oven. Let the meat stand till cold, and turn it out before ser ?ing. Vinegar and mustard should be eaten with pork cheese. Time to bake, one hour. Pi-obable cost of pork, 9d. to lid. per pound. Sufficient for a moderatesized breakfast dish. Pork Cheese (a I'ltalienne). Take three pounds of fresh pork, one pound and threequarters fat and one poimd and a quarter lean. Chop it rather coarsely, and mix with it a savoiu-5' powder made of three tea-spooirfids of salt, three salt-spoonfuls of pepper, a tea-spoonful of choppedparsley, a salt-spoonful of chopped sage, a salt-spoonful of powdered th\Tne, a teaspoonful of mushroom-powder, and a grated nutmeg. Press the meat into a shallow bakingtin, and bake in a slow oven. Let the cheese get cold, and when serving cut it in slices like brawn. Send vinegar and mustard to table with it. Pork Cheese (a ITtalienne. Another way). See Italian Pork Cheese. Pork, Chine of. The chine of pork is that part of the pig which is taken from the spine between the shoulders. It is generaUj' sent to table with turkey, and should be salted for three or four days before it is cooked. There is a good deal more of fat than lean in it. To boil it, put it in plenty of water, let it boil slowly, skim thoroughly, and serve garnished with any kind of greens. It is as often roasted as boiled. When roasted, the skin should be scored before it is put down to the fire. Make a sauce by frying two or three sliced onions in butter till they are lightly browned. Pour off the oil, and add a cupful of good gravy with a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, half a cupful of vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a large lump of sugar. Boil this, and pour it into the dish. Time to boil, half an hour to the pound after it boils ; to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, four or five pounds for a moderate-sized turkey. Pork, Chine of (another way). Make a savoury powder with a dessert-spoonfid of finely - chopped sage, half a tea-spoonful of thyme, half a tea-spoonful of parsley, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Score the cliine lengthwise, and slip the powder under the skin. Roast according to the directions given above. If Kked, the powder can be omitted, and a sauce, made as follows, sent to table with the chine : Slice tvN o large onions, and fry them in a little good dripping until they are lightly browned without being burnt. Drain them, and put them into a clean saucepan with half a pint of brown sauce, two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, or a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder, or a dessert-spoonful of mushi-oom ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and one tea-spoonful of mixed mustard Let the sauce boil, and serve. Time to roast, twenty minutes per pound. Probable cost, Okd. to lO d. per pound. Pork, Chine of. Boiled. Lay the chine in common brine, and tuni it every day for ten days. Wash it from the pickle, drain it, put it into a saucepan, and cover with cold water. Bring it to the boil, skim the liquid carefully, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the pork simmer verj" gently until done enough. Garnish the dish with small boiled cauliflowers or brussels sprouts. Time to boil, half an hour to the pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 9 d. to 10- d. per pound. Pork, Chine of. Roasted. Score the chine lengthwise, brush the skin over with salad oil, and put the meat down to a clear fire, a considerable distance from it at first, that it may heat genth through before it browns. Baste liberally. Send good brown gravy, apple sauce, tomato sauce, or piquant sauce, to table with it. If liked, a table-spoonful of powdered sage may be sprinkled over the meat a quarter of an hour before it is taken from the fire. When this is done, care should be taken that the gra -y is poured round, and not iq)0)i, the meat. Time to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable co.st, 9kl. to lOkl. per poimd. Pork, Chine of, Roasted (another way). Remove some of the fat, then roast the meat for two hours or longer say, until it is thoroughly done. Send it to table by itseK, or with piquant sauce. Before cooking this joint it should be sprinkled with salt and spices, and hung up for three days, or longer, according to the season. Pork, Choosing of . Pinch the lean, and if young it - vill break. Should the lind be tough, thick, and not easily irnpressed _ by the fingers, the meat is old. A thin rind is a desirable feature in all pork. 'WTien fresh, the POR ( 603 ) POR flesh will be smooth and cool ; if tainted, it will he clammj-. AMiat is kno -n as measly pork is very unwholesome ; it may be recognised by its being full of kernels, which in good pork is never the case. Dairy-fed pork is the best. Pork Chops. The best chops are those which are taken from the kidney end of the loin, and a little slice of kidne} may be advantageously cut Math each chop. In whatever way pork chops are cooked, whether they are fried, broiled, or stewed, care should be taken that they are done through. Every particle of meat should be raised to, and kept for a few minutes at, a temperature at least a trifle above that of boiUng water. If thoroughly cooked without being dried up, few viands are more grateful than pork chops for taste in dishing, and for whatever pleasant adjuncts may be bestowed upon them. These may be considei-ably varied. Pork chops may be sent to table surrounding mashed potatoes which have been tiu ned out of a mould after browning in the oven. They maj' be served on a puree of sorrel or a layer of spinach ; they may encu'cle a mound of brussels sprouts, with a suitable sauce poured over the sprouts; thej may be served on st 3wed red cabbage or chopped savoy ; or they may be simply dished in a circle with tomato sauce, thick brown sauce, apple sauce, piquant sauce, cucumber sauce, Eobert sauce, proven ale sauce, or shallot gravy, in a tureen. Probable cost of trimmed chops. Is. per poimd. Pork Chops, Bread-crumbed and Broiled. Trim the chops as before, season them with salt and pepper, and dip them in clarified biitter, or brush them over with oil ; then egg and bread-crumb them. Broil them over a clear fire : turn Lhem frequently. Serve very hot. Send tomato or piquant sauce to table with them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufiicient for one person. Pork Chops, Broiled. Cut the chops rather less than half an inch thick. Have a clear fire : make the gridiron hot before x)utting the chops upon it, and let them be at such a distance that thej- may be done through. Pepper them before putting them down, and two or three minutes before they are done sprinkle a little salt over them, and, if Hked, a little finelychopped sage or tarragon. Turn them frequently, and serve very hot. Tomato sauce, piquant sauce, Italian sauce, or Eobert sauce, may be sent to table with them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. per jjound. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Pork Chops, Fried. Cut two pork chops half an inch in thickness, take oft" part of the fat, and trim them neatly. Sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt an ounce of butter in a saute pan, put the chops in it, and fry them until they are thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered sage can be sprinkled over them before ser\-ing. Send Eobert sauce, apple sauce, or piquant sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry, twenty minutes ten minutes on each side Pork Chops, Savoury. Cut the chops half an inch thick from a good loin of pork ; trim them neatly, and sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them. Take a slice of fat bacon, cut it and the trimmings from the chops into small pieces, and put them into a steAvpan with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped sage, a finely-mrnced shallot, a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of wkite pepper. Add the chops, cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew gently for twenty minutes. Lift them out, put them on a hot dish, and keep them hot. Pour over the herbs two table -spoonfuls of stock or Avater and a table-spooni id of strained lemonjiuce. Let it boil up, strain it, and skim off the fat. Boil again Avith a glass of port, and serve it round the chops. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufiicient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Collops. Cut a pound of cold roast pork into neat slices. Trim off the fat, season Asith pepper and salt, cover up the slices to keep them from the dust, and put them aside. Mince finety two large onions and three apples, put them into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and four of sherry. Let them simmer gently until reduced to pulp, stu-i-ing them every now and then to keep them from buraing. Beat them until quite smooth. Broil the collops over a clear fire. Pour the sauce into the centre of a hot dish. Put the collops round, and serve. Time to broil the collops, eight minutes ; one hour to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and cold meat. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Pork, Curried. Take two pounds of pork with a moderate share of fat. Cut it into neat slices, and frj these in a little butter until they are nicety browned ; drain them, and put them aside. Put into the butter six onions and' one apple finely minced. Move them about until they are quite soft, and work them through a sieve by pressing them with the back of a wooden spoon. Mix with the pidp a tablespoonful of curry poAvder, a table-spoonful of curry paste, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, three-quarters of a pint of stock or water, and a little salt. Stir the sauce over the fire tUl it boils, put in the slices of j ork, let these boil up, then di-aw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the curry is done enough. Take out the pieces of meat, boil the sauce quickly for two or three minutes, pour it over the curry, and serve. Send a little rice to table on a separate dish. Time to boil the curry, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, pork, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four people. Pork Cutlets. Pork cutlets are best taken from rhe neck or fore loin of small, dairy-fed poi'k, not very fat. They should be neatly trimmed, the chine bone removed, and the end of the bone bared about an inch. The skin should be scored at regular intervals, and the cutlets flattened with a cutlet-bat, and then broiled or fried according to the directions given in the following recipes. POR ( 604 ) POR Pork Cutlets, Broiled. Prepare the cutlets according to the directions given above ; season with pepper and salt, brush them over with oil, and place them on a hot gridiron over a clear tire. Turn them two or thi-ee times that they may be equally browned on both sides, and let them be thoroughly cooked. Put them on a hot dish, and send tomato or piquant sauce, sauce Robert, or any other appropriate sauce, to table with them. Pork cutlets may be served with the same accompaniment as pork chops {see Pork Chops). The appearance of the cutlets will be improved if they are lightly brushed over with a little glaze, but they must be qviickly served after they are taken from the tire or they will be spoiled. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Pork Cutlets, Pried. Pork cutlets may be fried according to the directions given for pork chops, or as follows : Melt tv o ounces of butter in a saucepan, and stir into it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, and a tea-spoonful of finelyminced shallot. Move these ingredients about for a minute, then add a little salt and pepper and two eggs well beaten. Dip the cutlets first into this mixture, then into finely-grated bread ;rumbs, and let them stand ten minutes. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, fry the cutlets in it, and when done enough, serve with good brown sauce in a tui-een. Time to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. - Sirfficient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Cutlets, Marinaded. IMince an onion finely, and lay it at the bottom of a shallow dish, with a bay-leaf, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Lay the cutlets ?upon this mixture, and cover with oil. Let them lie for two hours, turn them, and leave them two hours longer. Fry them in the marinade till they are thoroughly cooked; drain them, place them round a hot dish, pour a little tomato sauce into the centre, and serve. Time to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Cutlets, Savoury. Savoury pork ciitlets may be di-essed according to the directions given for savoury pork chops [see Pork C hops, Savoury), or as follows : Take a moderate-sized saucepan with a closelyfitting Hd. Melt in this two ounces of fresh butter, and throw into it a table-spoonful each of chopped parsley and sage, a pinch of thjTne, three bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and eight allspice. Stir over the fire for a minute, then add a glass of light wine and a pound of properly trimmed pork cutlets. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the contents steam for a quarter of an hour. Take the cutlets up, drain them, and dip them first into beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated breadcrumbs. Fry quickly, and serve them round a hot dish, with the sauce poured into the centre. The sauce may be prepared as follows : Strain the sauce from the cutlets. Skim it, stir a table-spoonful of lemon- juice into it, thicken with a very small portion of flour, and just before sending it to table mix a tea-spoonful of mustard with it. Time, ten minutes to fry the cutlets. Probable cost, cutlets, Is. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pork Cutlets with Sauce Robert. Take two pounds of properly trimmed pork cutlets, and lay them in a deep dish. Put a glass of vinegar, a glass of sherry, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three shallots, a blade of mace, eight peppercorns, and two allspice into a saucepan. Let these ingredients boil up, then t\im the mixture into a basin, and when quite cold, pom- it over the cutlets. Let them lie in the mixtm-e twelve hours, turning them two or thi-ee times. When wanted, drain and dry them, egg and breadcrumb them, and broil over a clear fire until they are thoroughly cooked. Serve in a hot dish, and pour half a pint of sauce Robert over them. Pork, Cutting up and Salting (French method). xVs soon as the pig is killed, do not scald but singe it. To do this, put the carcase on a truss of straw, and set fire to it windward. Then after turning the pig, burn off any bristles that are left with torches of burning straw. Broom the pig, wash it well with cold water, and scrape it thoroughly with a knife. Open it, and reserve the blood for a black pudding. Throw the fry into cold water, and cleanse the chitterlings. These must be used speedily. Let the pig hang for some hours in an airy situation till it is cool and stiff. Halve it, and cut it up into convenient-sized pieces, of from three to five pounds' weight. The feet and tail, the tongue, nostril, brains, and ears can be left unsalted, and cooked separately, and, if liked, a few roasting pieces also. To salt the pork, supposing it to weigh 200 pounds, make a powder by mixing thirty pounds of common salt, quarter of a pound of powdered mixed sjDice, and two ounces of ground pepper. Rub each piece of pork with the powder. Put a layer of powder at the bottom of the saltingtub, pack in closely a layer of pork, and sprinkle the powdered salt and spice over it. Place on this another layer of pork, and repeat until the pan is full. Put salt thickly on the top, pour a pint of cold water over the whole to assist the salt in dissolving, and put on the wooden cover. The pork may remain in this pickle from four to six months, and should then be placed in a single layer on a wicker hurdle, and left to dry in a cool airy place until it is wanted. Bacon thus pickled is the only meat ever tasted by large numbers of Frenchmen. Pork, Dangers of Eating {see Pork, Trichinatous). Pork, Fresh, Stewed. Cut a spare-rib or any fresh lean pork into chops. Fry these in a little fat until they are lightly browned. Take them up, drain them, put them into a clean stewpan, and pour over them as much boiling water as will cover them. Let the liquid boil once more, then draw it to the POR ( 605 ) FOR side, and simmer very gently until the chops arc done enough. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, season with pepper and salt; boil a few minutes longer, and serve the pork on a hot dish with the gravy poui-ed round it. Time, four minutes to fry the pork; thi-eequarters of an houi' to stew. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Pork, Griskin of. A. griskin of pork is a loin from a large pig with the bacon cut oft", and is unfortimately often sent to table dry and hard. In order to prevent this, put it into a stewpan with as much cold water as will cover it. Bring the water to the boil, take out the meat, remove the skin, and put it down to a clear fire. A short time before it is done enough, strew over it a tea-spoonful of powdered sage mixed with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, and a Httle salt and pepper. Baste UberaUy before the powder is strewn over the meat, but not afterwards. Send some apple sauce and gravy to table with it. If the skin is left on it will require longer roasting. Time, for a joint weighing seven poimds, an hour and a half. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Pork, G-riskin of (as Dressed in the South of Eui'ope). In the Southern Peninsula the griskin of pork is allowed to lie in claret flavoured with garhc for five or six days before it is di-essed, being hung up to dry at intervals. At the end of that time it is roasted, and served with tomato sauce; or sweet herbs being sprinkled over it, it is wrapped in bay leaves, and stewed gently in the -svine in which it was soaked, to which a slight flavouring of Seville orange-juice has been added. It forms a peculiar and piquant dish, much liked by those who have acquired a taste for preparations of the kind. Pork, Griskin of Roasted. The griskin is usually roasted. It should be put down to a clear fire, and basted constantly, and brown gravy and apple sauce should be sent to table with it. If Uked, a tea-spoonful of powdered sage may be sprinkled over it a few minutes before it is taken down. As this joint is liable to be hard and diy when served, many cooks are accustomed, before roasting it, to put it in a saucepan of cold water, place it on the fire, and bring the liquid to the point of boiling : then dry it well, fl.oiu' it, and roast it as above described. Time, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Pork, Hand of. The hand of pork is usually salted and boiled, and may be sent to table with greens and pease pudding in a separate dish. It should have lain in salt about four days. If it has lain longer than that, and is very salt, it is well to let it soak a short time before boiling. It should be put into cold water, skin uppermost, the liquid should be brought slowly to the point of boiling, skimmed carefully, and then simmered gently until the pork is done enough. Time, half an hour per pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Pork, Hashed. Cut a pound and a half of cold roast poik into neat sHces. If any gi'avy was left from the joint, it may bo thickened with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, or with flour and butter flavoured with a little mushroom-ketchup or any other flavoui-ing, and used for the hash. If this is not at hand, put the bones and trimmings from which the meat was cut into a saucepan with a sliced onion, a clove, a blade of mace, a little salt and pepper, and a pint of water. Stew gently for an horn- or more, skim and strain the gravy, and flavour- as above. Put in the sUces of pork, and let them heat gently by the side of the fire for about twenty mitiutes. The gravy must not boil after the meat is added. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with toasted sippets, and send apple sauce to table in a tureen. The gravy may be made more savoury by gently frying the onions in butter before stewing them, and, if hked, sage and onion sauce may accompany the hash. Time, half an hornafter the gravy is made. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pork Kidney, Stewed. Pork kidneys may be fried as directed for mutton kidneys, or they may be serA'ed as follows : Take off the skin, and cut two kidneys into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over them equal parts of parsley and finely-minced shallot. Fry in butter until they are hghtly browned, stir a tea-spoonful of flour amongst them, and shake them well in the pan. Add gradually a wineglassful of gravy, or even water, and half a wineglassful of Ught wine. Bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Take out the kidney. Mix a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley with the sauce, let it boil two minutes longer, pour it over the kidney, and serve very hot. Time altogether, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, pork kidneys, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two persons. Pork Lard. The inside fat of the pig is melted for lard. To make it, cut the fat into thin slices, and put these into a jar. Place the jar in a pan of water, and keep this boiling until the fat dissolves. As it melts, pour it off into small jars or bladders properly prepared, the smaller the better, as the lard will not keep well after it has once been opened. Tie up securely, and store for use. Pork, Leg of, as Goose (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe) . Parboil a leg of pork, and take off the skin. Make a stufliug as follows : Mince two ounces of onion very finely ; if the strong flavour is objected to, the onions may be pre-i-iously boiled. Mix with the onions half a chopped apple, four ounces of bread-crumbs, half a dozen chopped sage-leaves, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Jklake a slit in the knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and fasten securely. Put the pork down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. Half .tii horn- before it is taken up, sprinkle over it a savoury powder made of two table-spoonfuls of bread-cruiubs mixed with one table-spoonful of powdered sage_,- and a little pe];.pcr r.ud salt. Do not baste the uieat after the pi - \ der POR ( COG ) POR is put upon it. Servo with good brown gravy and apple sauce. Time, a leg of poi'k weighing six pounds will require one hour's gentle boiling, a,nd roasting for one hour and a half. Probable cost, 10 d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pork, Leg of, Boiled. A leg of pork which is to be boiled should be previously salted. When pui'chasing it, choose a small compact leg not too fat. If already salted, wash it before beginning to cook it. If not, put it into a perfectly clean dry earthen pan, rub it well in every part with common salt, and repeat this operation every day for ten days, turning the meat each time, so that the brine may reach every part equally. When the pork is wanted, saw off the shank -bone, wash it well, put it in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring the liquid slowly to a boU. Skim carefuUy, and simmer gently until the meat is done enough. If it is allowed to boil qmckly the knuckle end will be sufficiently cooked before the heat has penetrated to the middle of the thick part of the leg. Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and pease pudding, are the usual accompaniments of boiled leg of pork. If liked, the vegetables can be boiled with the meat, but they must not be put in until the water boils. The appearance of the dish will be unproved if the skin is scored into small squares or diamonds, and each alternate square taken out. Time, a leg of pork weighing six povmds wiU require two hours' gentle simmeiing. Probable cost, lOgd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pork, Leg of, Boiled (another way). Take a leg of pork, rub it over with salt, and put it, well covered with salt, in a vessel, wherein it must be left for ten days. At the end of that time boil it in soft water, and serve with green cabbage aU round, and a peas pudding, made as follows: Take a quart of dry peas, wash them, wrap them in a clean towel, and throw them into the same vessel as the pork. When the peas are done, strain them through a sieve, put in a large lump of butter, some salt, and two yolks of eggs, and poach the pudding, wrapped up in a clean towel, to make it of a good substance. Observe that the peas must be put in cold soft water for two hours before beiag boiled, otherwise they wiU never boil mellow. Pork, Leg of, Fresh, Roasted. A fresh leg of pork ought not to be kept more than a day or two before being cooked. Score the skin at regular intervals round from the knuckle, or, if preferred, cut it into squares or diamonds, taking great care not to pierce the flesh. Rub the rind over with butter or sweetoil to keep it from blistering ; put it down at some distance from a clear iire, and baste constantly. Brown gravy and apple sauce, tomato sauce, and Robert sauce, are aU suitable accompaniments to roast pork. Time, a joint weighing eight poimds will reqiure three hours. Probable cost, lOJd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient, a moderate-sized leg of pork for eight or ten persons. Pork, Leg of, Eoasted. A leg of pork of eight pounds will r ;i uirc about three hours. Score the skin across m narrow strips some score it in diamonds about a quarter of an inch apart. Stuh: the knuckle with sage and LEG OF PORK. onion minced fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg. Do not j)ut the meat too near the fire; rub a little sweet-oil on the skin with a pastebrush or a goose feather ; this makes the crackling crisper and browner than basting it with ch'ipping, and it will be a better colour than aU the art of cookery can make it in any other way. And this is the best way to prevent the skin from blistering, which is principally occasioned by its being placed too near the fire. Br. Kltchiner. Pork, Leg of Roast, To Carve. In carving either the roast leg or loin of pork the knife must follow the dii-ection of the lines scored by the cook before the meat was roasted, on the skin which forms the crackling. This skin is too crisp to be conveniently cut through. It usually happens that the lines scored on the roasted leg of pork are placed too far apart for single cuts. In order therefore to cut thin slices from the meat, raise up the crackling. The seasoning should be placed under the skin round the shankbone. Often, however, sage and onion are sent to table separate from the joint. Pork, Leg of, Stxiffed and Roasted. Mince finely three large onions which have been previouslj' boiled or not, according to taste ; mix with them half a dozen chopped sageleaves, four ounces of bread-crumbs, an oimce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and half an apple chopped small. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolk of an egg. Raise the skin round the knuckle of the leg of pork, fasten it secui'ely, and brush the rind all over -R-ith sweet-oil. Put it down at some distance from a clear fire, and baste liberally. Serve the meat on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce to table with it. If any gravy is put into the dish it should be poured round, but not upon the meat. The flavour of this joint vdU be improved if it is stuffed the day before it is roasted. The Germans stuff a leg of pork -ith sour apples only. Time, a joint weighing eight pounds will require three hours. Probable cost, lOid. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pork, Loin of (a la rran9aise). Take a piece of the loin, neck, or spare-rib of pork; FOR (607) POR score the skin neatly in lines about a quarter of an inch apart, and rub it over with salad-oil. Put it into a deep baking dish with eighteen or twent}' apples pared, cored, and quartered, as many potatoes peeled and divided, and nine or ten moderate-sized onions. Put the dish in a well-heated oven, and when the meat and vegetables are done enough serve them on a hot dish, the meat being placed in the centre, and the apples, onions, and potatoes arranged round it. Time to bake a joint weighing about four pounds, an horn- and a half. Probable cost, 9 d. to lOjd. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pork, Loin of, Baked (German method). Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork ; sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt over it, and lay it in a baking dish -ith half a cupful of stock or water ; baste liberally. When the meat is half cooked, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of caraway seeds over it. The brown gi'avy which is in the dish may be served with the meat. The fat must be cleared from it, and it must be strained and seasoned with pepper and salt. Time to bake, allow twenty-five minutes for every pound. Probable cost, op. to lO d. per pound. Pork, Loin of, Marinaded (a German recipe) . Score a fresh loin of pork in the usual way, and rub it well with powdered sage ; lay the meat in the salting-pan, and pour over it two pints of tarragon ?sTnegar and two pints of cold water ; add a dessert-spoonful of salt, one ounce and a half of bruised peppercorns, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, twelve yoimg sageleaves, and a small onion. Turn and rub the pork every day for three days. Take it up, drain it, rub it again vdth powdered sage, wrap it in an oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire. Baste liberally with the pickle. Serve on a hot dish, and send a sauce prepared as follows to table with the meat : ISIix smoothly in a saucepan two oimces of butter and a table- spoonful of fiour ; add gradually half a pint of the pickle with which the pork has been basted, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayexme, and a glass of port. Simmer the sauce over a gentle fire until it is of the consistency of cream, and send it to table in a tm-een.' Time to roast the meat, half an hour per pound. Probable cost, pork, 9id. to lO d. per pound. Pork, Loin of. Marinaded and Baked (a German recipe). Take the skin from a loin of pork ; lay the meat in a deep earthen pan, pom- over it half a pint of \Tnegar, and put with it two sliced onions, twelve young sageleaves, a sprig of thyme and sweet basil, a dozen juniper berries, six cloves, twenty bruised peppercorns, and a table-spoonful of salt. Let the pork remain in this marinade five or six; days, turning and basting it twice a day. Take it up, put it M th the pickle into a baking dish, and baste frequently. When it is about half baked, pour half a cupful of boiling water into the dish, strain the gravy, and put it back. When the meat is sufficiently cooked, serve on a hot dish, skim the gra\'y, and pour it roimd. Time to bake, twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, d.hd. to lO d. per pound. Pork, Loin of. Roast, Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork at equal distances about a quarter of an inch apart. Brush it over with salad-oil, and place the joint before a clear fire, though at a good distance from it, for fear the crackling should bum before the meat is sufficiently cooked. Baste liberally, and when done enough serve on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce or Robert sauce to table with the meat. If liked, a Little sage and onion stuffing may be served in a separate dish. It is better not to send it to table on the same dish as the meat, as many people object to the flavour. Time, a loin of pork weighing five pounds, about two hours. Probable cost, 9M. to 10 d. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Pork, Loin, Roast, To Carve {see Pork, Leg of Roast, To Carve). Pork, Loin of, Savoury. Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork in lines a quarter of an inch apart. Rub it thoroughly in every part with a savom-y powder made by mixing together a salt-spoonful of powdered sage, a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of diy mustard, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a chopped onion. WrajD the joint entirely in oUed papeii, and put it down before a clear fire, though at a distance from it, and baste liberally. Half an horn- before the meat is taken down, remove the paper, and baste the meat again until the crackling is nicely browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce to table with the meat. Time, half an hour to the pound. Probable cost, 9M. to lOid. per pound. Pork, Loin of, Savoury (another way). Score a small loin of pork as before. Make a savoury mixtm-e of a moderate-sized onion chopped small, a piece of garlic the size of a pea also chopped, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the sixth part of a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of shred parsley, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and a bay-leaf cut small. Stii- this powder into a quarter of a pint of salad-on, and rub the pork well with the mixture. Put it into an earthen pan, and let it remain closely covered for two days, turningit every day. " Take it up, v ap it in well-oiled paper, and roast as in the preceding recipe. Serve on a hot dish, and send a sauce prepared as follows to table in a tureen : Mince finely a moderate-sized onion and a sharp apple. Put these into a small saucepan with a tea-spooniui of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and POR ( 608 ) POK the strained juice of a lemon. Stir them over the fire for " a minute or two, then pour over them half a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, and let the sauce simmer gently for twenty minutes. Serve the sauce in a tureen. Time to roast the pork, half an hour per pound. Probable cost, 9 d. to lOid. per pound. Pork, Loin of, with Fried Potatoes. Koast a piece of the loin or spare rib of pork in the usual way. Baste liberally, and when it is almost done enough, take six or eight large potatoes French kidney potatoes are best for the purpose, as they do not break whilst cooking so much as the regents wash and peel them, dry them well in a napkia, and cut them into slices the eighth of an inch thick. Pour the fat which has dropped from the pork into a small deep saucepan. "WTien it is quite hot, throw the potatoes into it, and move them about occasionally that they may be equally cooked. Drain them from the fat, and serve the pork on a hot dish, the fried potatoes being arranged round it: send brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time, ten minutes to fry the potatoes. Probable cost: pork, Okl. to lOid. per poimd. Pork, Loin of, with Sauce Robert. Eoast a loin of pork in the usual way, baste liberally, and when done enough serve on a hot dish with a sauce prepared as follows poured round it : Cut four good-sized onions into small pieces, fry them in two ounces of butter until they are lightly browned. Sprinkle an ounce of flour over them, and stir them about with a "wooden spoon over a gentle fire for two minutes. Add a- little salt and pepper, a pint of stock, and a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat, and let the sauce simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time. Pour it on a hot dish, lay the joint upon it, and serve immediately. Send apple sauce to table in a tureen. A little made mustard may be added to the sauce, if liked. Loin of pork, when served with this sauce, is sometimes stewed instead of being roasted. To do this, put the joint with a small portion of clarified butter into a' stewjDan just large enough to hold it. Let it brown brightly on both sides, then pour over it as much stock as will cover it, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck mth two cloves, a little salt and pepper, and a glass of light wine ; let it simmer gently for two hours, and baste two or three times at intervals during the time. Serve the pork on a hot dish with the sauce poured round it. Time to roast a loin weighing about four pounds, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 9. d. to lO d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pork, Meat Cake of. Mince separately one pound of lean pork and three quarters of a pound of fat bacon. Mix them, and season the mixture rather highly with salt, pepper, cayenne, and chopped sage. Bind the ingredients together with the yolk of an egg. Form a round cake about an inch thick ; dissolve a small portion of butter in a stewpan. Put in the cake, let it brown on one side, then turn it, and let it brown equally on the other. Put it on a hot dish, dredge a" little flour into the butter, mix it to a smooth paste, thin 'it with a little stock, season with pepper and salt, and boil until it is of the consistence of cream ; put in the cake, let it heat through, and serve with the sauce in the dish. If the flavour is liked, a little finely-minced onion maj'- be added both to the cake and the sauce. Time to fry, from twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Pork, Meat Cake of. Cold Cut the meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast pork, and mince it very finely ; mix with it a couple of large potatoes freshly boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a pinch of powdered sage. Add two or three eggs and a little milk, sufficient to make a very thick batter. Fry the cake like an omelet, or bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. Time to fry, until nicely browned. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold pork. Pork, Minced. Take a pound of cold roast pork, free from fat or sldn, and season it with a little pepper, salt, and dry mustard. Pare, core, and mince finely four large apples, and put them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter and three chopped onions of a moderate size. Stir these ingredients over the fire until tender. Pour over them three table-spoonfuls of nicely-flavoured stock, or if any is at hand, of the gxavy that was served with the roast pork. Add a table-spoonful of -vinegar, and a piece of brown thickening the size of a small nut, or if this is not to be had, a tea-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of cold stock. Let the sauce boil five or six minutes. Stir into it the minced pork, and when this is quite hot, add the juice of a small lemon, and serve immediately. If the flavour is liked, a piece of garlic the size of a pea may be simmered with the sauce. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for two or three jDersons. Pork, Minced as Collops (a German recipe) . Mince one pound of cold lean pork and two ounces of fat poik very finely. Mix with it four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, and a little pepper and salt, and bind the mixture together with two well-beaten eggs. Form the mince into balls, flatten these on the top, brush them over with egg, dip them' in bread crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Serve with good brown gravy. If liked, the coUops instead of being fried may be stewed in a gravy prepared as follows : Put the bones and trimmings of the jDOrk into a stewpan with as much stock as will cover them. Season the gra y with pepper and salt, and siumier it gently for tialf an houi-. Strain it, place it again in the saucepan, and put in the collops. Let them stew for a quarter of an hour. Lift them out carefully, and keep them hot. Thicken the gravy with brown thickening, and add a tablespoonful of chopped capers or a couple of finelyminced shallots to the sauce. Send cauliflower or delicately-fried potatoes to table with the collops. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pork, Week of. Rolled and Roasted. Take the neck or spring of fresh young pork. POR ( 609 ) POR Have the bones removed, and spread evenly ?over the inside a forcemeat made of three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, two table-spoonfuls of chopped sage, a little pepper and salt, and a beaten egg. Roll and bind the meat tightly in a nice shape. Put it to roast before a clear fire, though at a good -distance from it, and baste KberaUy. Send good brown gravy to table with the pork. If liked, the forcemeat may be omitted, and tomato sauce, poivrade sauce, or soubise sauce may accompany the meat. Time to roast the pork, twenty-five minutes per pound. Probable cost, 9id. per jiound. Pork, Nutritive Properties of. Compared with some of our leading articles of diet derived from animals, pork, so far as nutriment is concerned, occupies the lowest place, except in the matter of fat. This may be seen from the following analji;ical table : Veal. Beef. Mutton. Pork. Mineral matter . 4-5 5-0 3-5 1-5 Gelatine . . lb 7-0 7-0 5-5 Fibrine . . 9-0 8-0 5-5 4-5 Fat . . . 16-5 30-0 40-0 50-0 "Water . . 62-5 50-0 44-0 38-5 1000 100-0 100-0 100-0 Pork Pancakes. Beat thoroughly the yolks of two fresh eggs. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and beat to a smooth paste. Add a pinch of salt and the third of a pint of milk, and let the batter stand for an hour or two. Cut the remains of cold roast or boiled pork into thin slices, and cover these to keep them moist and free from dust. When the pancakes are to be fried, whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and add them to the batter. Dip the slices of pork into this, and fry them separately in hot fat for a minute. Surround each slice with a spoonful of batter, fry it again until set, and when it is done on one side turn it over to the other. Serve the imncakes on a hot dish, and send good brown sauce made from the trimmings of the pork to table with them. If liked, the pancakes can be made with fresh meat, but in this case it will be necessary to fry the slices of j)ork before they are dipped into the batter. Thr-ee or four pancakes may be fried at once in an ordinary omelet pan. Time to fry the pancakes, four minutes each. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Suflicient, allow two or three for each person. Pork, Peas Pudding to Eat with Boiled {see Peas Pudding). Pork, Peas Pudding, why eaten with. '' Pork and peas pudding," remarks Dr. Johnson, " is a conjunction of viands which does not owe its popularity either to old habit or to the mere taste of the epicure. It is in reality an admixture which constitutional experience has prescribed as better fitted to the after comfort of the alimentary canal of every healthy individual than cither kind of food eaten alone." Pork, Pickle for. The same pickle may be used agam and again for pork if it ia boiled up occasionally. The followmg are excellent 40 recipes : Boil half a pound of common salt, a quarter of a pound of salt prunel, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, one and a half pounds of loaf sugar, and two poimds of bay-salt, in two gallons of water for half an hour. Skim the liquor well, and when cold put it into the tub. Or boil six pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, and one and a half pounds of moist sugar, in two gallons of water, as above. When the meat is put into either of these pickles, put a weight upon it to keep it covered with the brine. It wiU keep good for four or five months. Pork, Pickle for (another way). jSee Pickle for Beef, Pork, and Tongues. Pork, Pickled. As pork will not keep unless it is salted, it should be cut up as soon as it is cold, and in such pieces as will He quite flat in the pan. Strew a layer of salt and a slighter one of sugar at the bottom of the salting-pan. Rub the sides of the pork over with sugar and salt, lay the pieces, skin downwards, in the pan, and put a layer of sugar and salt between the layers. When the pan is fuU, cover the whole with a layer of salt sufliciently thick to exclude the air. Lay a cloth over the pan, and put a board with a weight upon it over the cloth to keep the meat in the brine. Leave it for a week or ten days. If at the end of that time the salt has not dissolved into a brine, sprinkle a little warm water over the top layer of salt. It is better, however, to avoid doing this if possible : it should only be found necessary in very di-y weather. Pork pickled in this way will be ready for use in three or four months, and will be found excellent. If excluded from the air, it wiU keep good for two years. Although saltpetre is more commonly used than sugar in pickling meat, the latter imparts the finer flavour, though there is no reason why both should not be used for pork as well as beef. Pork, Pickled (American method). Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre and half an ounce of saleratus in a small quantity of boiling water. Put this into a large saucepan containing three gallons of water, and add two and a half pounds of common salt, two pounds of baysalt, and one pound of moist sugar. Boil the liquid, and skim well until it is quite clear, then pour it into the pickling-pan, and when it is cold it is ready for use. Pork which is to be boiled should be put into this pickle, and kejjt under the brine, by means of a board and a weight laid upon it, until it is wanted. The time required for pickling will of coiu-se depend upon the size of the meat and the taste of those who are to eat it. Usually it will be found that two days is suflicient for the streaky parts, four days for the hand and spring, and five or six days for a moderatesized leg. The pickle may be used again and again if boiled occasionally. Pork, Pickled (an asy way). WTien pork is to be dressed in a shoi-t time, it may be pickled in the following easy way : Take the pig as soon as it is cold, cut it into convenient-sized pieces, and rub it well with common sidt. Lay it in the salting-pan, and turn and rub it everj- day till it is required for POR (610) POR use. Remember always to wash the hands in cold water the last thing before touching the meat. The time reqxiircd for the meat to lie in salt depends upon taste. If it is wished that it should be only moderately salted, the hand and belly may remain in the pan four days, and a leg weighing six pounds five or six days. Pork, Pickled (another way). Every part of the pig which is thin and streaky may be converted into pickled pork, but the fillet and breasts are the portions best suited for this purpose. Cut the meat into pieces, and lay these at the bottom of an earthen pan on a layer of crushed salt, packing them as closely as possible. Cover with a mixture of fifteen parts of salt and one of saltpetre. Lay on the top a cloth folded in foiu-, and above the cloth a round board bearing several heavy stones. If the pork is wanted for immediate use, remove it at the end of five or six days ; but if it is wished to preserve it for a considerable time, let it remain, longer in salt. Pork, Pickled, Boiled. If the pork be very salt, let it soak for an hour before it is dressed. Put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring it slowly to the boil. Skim the liquid carefully, draw the pan to the side, and let the meat sinmier very gently until it is done enough. If boiled quickly it will not be good. Pickled pork is generally served as an accompaniment to fowls or other white meats. If under-dressed, pickled porlc is very indigestible. Thick pieces will require longer boiling than thin ones ; as a general rule, half an hour per pound from the time the water boils. Pork, Pickled, Dressed (Dr. Kitchincr's observations on). "Pickled pork takes more pork time than any other moat. If you buy your ready salted, ask how manj days it has been in salt ; if many, it will require to be soaked in water for si.x hours before you dress it. When you cook it, wash and scrape it as clean as possible ; when delicately dressed, it is a favourite dish with almost everybody. . Take care it does not boil fast ; if it does, the knuckle -will break to pieces before the thick part of the meat is warm through ; a leg of seven pounds takes three hours and a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefullj', and when you take the meat out of the boiler, scrape it clean. Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more Nature has given eyes than she has given tongues and brains) , when pork is boiled, score it in diamonds, and take out every other square, and thus present a retainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate ; but this is pleasing the eye at the expense of the palate. A leg of nice poi'k nicely salted and nicely boiled is as nice a cold relish as cold ham, especially if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and so letting out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle ; slices broiled are a good luncheon or supper. Some persons who sell pork ready salted have a silly trick of cutting the knuckle in two we sujipose that this is done to save their salt but it lets all the gravy out of the leg; and unless you boU your pork merely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which in this case receives all the goodness and strength of the meat, friendly reader, your oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit at the knuckle. If pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable ; if too much, it not onl)'- loses its colour and flavour, but its substance becomes soft like a jelly. It must never appear at table without a good peas pudding, and, if you please, parsnips or carrots,, turnips and greens, or mashed potatoes. Obs. t Remember not to forget the mustard-pot." Pork Pies. Pork pies are generally made of the trimmings taken from a hog when it is cut up. Make and shape the pies according to the du-ections given in the following recipe, and remember that the pies must be moulded while the paste is warm, and that they are much more easily made with a mould than without one. As a mould is not always at hand, those who are not particularly experienced in the work (and it requu-es skill) may mould the pie round a jeUy-pot or bottle, which has been made warm by being immersed for some time in warm water. Cut the meat into pieces the size of a small nut, and keep the meat and fat separate. Season the whole with pepper and salt, half a dozen young sage-leaves finely shred ; or a tea-spoonful of dried and powdered sage, one ounce of salt, two and a quarter ounces of pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, may be allowed for a pie containing three pounds of meat. Pack the fat and lean closely into the pie in alternate layers until it is filled. Put on the cover, press and pinch the edges, and ornament according te taste. Brush over with well-beaten egg, and balce in a slowoven, as the meat is solid and requires to be cooked through. Neither water nor bone should be put into pork pies, and the outside pieces will be hard unless they are cut small and pressed closely together. The bones and trimmings of the pork may be stewed to make gravy, which should be boiled until it will jelly when cold, and when this has been nicely flavoured, a little may be poured into the pie after it is halved through an opening made in the top. When pies are made small they require a quicker oven than large ones. Timeto bake, about two hours for a pie containing three pounds. Probable cost, 3s. Sufiicient for eight or tc n persons. Pork Pies, Pastry for. Put a quarter of a pound of finely-shred beef suet or five ounces of lard, or a quarter of a pound of mutton suet and an ounce of fresh butter into a saucepan with half a pint of boiling water and a pinch of salt. Stir the mixture until the fat is dissolved, and pour it boiling hot into a pound and a half of flour. Knead well to a stiff paste, and add a little more warm water if required. Shape the dough, and get it into the oven wliilc it is warm. If the pie is to be baked in a mould, lay a piece of the proper shape in the bottom. Press long pieces into the sides, and fasten these to the top and the bottom with white of egg. If a mould is not to be used, cut off as much pastry as will make the cover, and wrap it in a cloth to keep it warm. Mould the rest with both hands into the shape of a cone, and make the sides smooth and firm. Press the top down with the knuckles of the right hand, and with the POR (611)' POR left press the outside closely to keep it firm and smooth. Be careful that the walls are equally thick in every part. Fill the pie, put on the cover, pinch the edges, fasten securely with wliite of egg, ornament the outside in any way that may siut the fancy, brush over with yolk of egg, and bake in a slow oven if the pie be large, in a qmckcr one if it be small. Pork, Precautions in Cooking. Take particular care it be done enough : other meats underdone; are unpleasant, but pork is Absolutely imeatable ; the sight of it is enough to appal the sharpest appetite if its gravy has the least tint of redness. Bo careful of the crackling : if this be not crisp, or if it be burned, you will be scolded. Dr. Kitchhier. Pork Pudding. Line a well-buttered basin with good suet crust. Fill it with alternate layers of pork cut into neat slices and pork sausage meat, and allow double the weight of pork to that of sausage meat. Put a little pepper and salt, a chopped onion, and half a dozen sage-leaves finely shred with the moat, and add two or three spoonfuls of gravy made from the trimmings. Put on the cover, fasten the edges securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiUng water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough ; then turn it out carefully, and serve on a hot dish. Time to boil a moderate-sized pudding, two hours and a half. Probable cost, pork and pork sausage, lOd. per pound. Pork Pudding (another way) . A Dutch recipe. Put half a pound of iinely-grated bread-crumbs into a bowl. Pour over these three-quarters of a pint of milk which has been milled with two well-beaten eggs, and let them soak for an hour. Stir in with them two pounds of lean pork finely minced and seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Add a little more butter to the sides of the dish, if requured. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. tSirfiicient for six or seven persons. Pork, Rearing Hogs for. As regards the wholesomeness of its flesh, the hog is more affected by the mode of keeping than any other known animal. It is naturally indolent and filthy in its habits, but cleanliness and attention have a great influence in making it thi'ive. The kind of food given to swine produces a marked, effect on the quality of the flesh. Sldmmed milk and peas, oats, and barley -meal rank first in excellence as food for making ?delicate pork. Milk alone will fatten pigs, and milk-fed pork is the most delicate of any. Pork fed on beans is hard and ill-flavoured ; that which is fed entirely on grain has the fat aspongy ; fermented grain and the must of cider render the hog bloated, and " liable to fits of the gout, from being kejit in a state of constant intoxication." Potatoes make a light, insipid flesh. Reared on oilcake the flesh is little better than carrion, and butchers' offal makes the pork full of gravy, but gives it a disgusting strong taste and smell. For bacon and flitches hogs are fattened on pirrpose, and their food will depend on the circumstances of theii owners. Round the forests of this country it is the practice to drive the hogs in at the proper season of the year, that they may feed on the acorns and other kernels that fall from the trees. It is said that AVcstphalia hams owe much of their excellence to a similar custom. Pork, Roast, Apple Sauce for. Peel some ajjples, cut them into quarters, and put them into a stewpan with a little brown sugar and water. Stir well Avith a wooden spoon, add a little butter, and when done enough send the sauce to table. The apples must not be too much stewed, or they will lose their acidity and become too brown. Pork, Rolled. Bone a leg of pork ; have ready a forcemeat of chopped sage, breadcrumbs, allspice, salt, and pepper; put this forcemeat within the meat, and roll it up tight. Roast gently, keeping the meat at first some distance from the tire ; froth it with butter and flour a few minutes before serving. Pork, Saddle of, Roasted. Have a saddle of pork cut in the same way as a saddle of mutton. As pork is not often cut up in this way, it will be necessary to order it beforehand. Take oft' the skin, trim the joint neatly, and cover the fat with buttered paper. Put it down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. Half an hour before it is taken up, remove the paper, di-edge the meat lightly with flour, and baste until it is brightly browned. Send brown gravy and apple-sauce, tomato-sauce, orpoivrade sauce, to table with it. If liked, the skin can be left on, and it will then requiie to be scored lengthwise, the same way in which the saddle is carved. This is the handsomest joint of pork that can be served. Time, without the skin, twenty minutes per pound. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Pork, Salted. Of all animal food pork takes salt best, and is most easily presented. A smaller quantity of salt will keep it than any other meat. It also acquires aaltness more slowly than any other. Pork, Salted, for Larding. In salting pork it is well to put aside a piece to be used exclusively for larding, and for this to omit saltpetre altogether, and merely rub it well with salt, put a weight upon it, and leave it for five or six weeks, until it is read}- for smoking. If saltpetre is rubbed into bacon which is to be used for larding, there will be danger that the lardoons will imj art a pink tinge to the white meats that- come in contact with them. Pork Sausages. First prepare the skins. To do this, empty the hog's intestines, cut them into lengths, and lay them in salt and water for three or four days. Turn them inside out once or twice during that time. Rinse and scrape them, and they are ready for use. To make the sausages : Mince finely a pound of lean pork free from skin and gristle. Add one pound of finely-shred beef suet, two large table-spoonfuls of grated bread, a plentiful allowance of pepper, salt, and finely-chopped sage, and a pinch of powdered allspice and powdered cloves. Fill the skins, and leave plenty of room to tie the ends. Or mince finely POR (612) POR a pound and a quarter of fat pork and a pound and a quarter of lean pork. Add three ounces of white pepper, one ounce of salt, a dessertsi oonful of powdered sage, a pinch of powdered mace, and a pinch of cloves. Or mince finely two pounds of lean pork and a pound and a half of the inward fat of the ing. Add the cnunb of a penny roll which has been soaked in cold water and pressed quite di-y, and a seasoning of pepper, salt, powdered sage, grated nutmeg, and lemon thyme. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Or mince finely one pound of pork, fat and lean together. Add one pound of finely- shred beef suet, one pound of lean veal, half a pound of finely-grated breadcrumbs, a small nutmeg grated, six or seven young sage-leaves cut small, or a tea-spoonful of dried and powdered sage, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a pinch of powdered savory, a pinch of powderedmarjoram, and the rind of half a small lemon cut small. Mix thoroughly, and put the meat into skins. Or mince finely six pounds of pork, fat and lean together ; add half a tea-spoonful of pounded sage, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of ground allspice, an ounce of salt, and half an ounce of white pepper. In making sausage meat it must be remembered that it is most important to keep out all pieces of bone, sinew, and skin. If a larger quantity of the meat has been mixed than is required for immediate use, what is left may be packed closely in a perfectly dry jar, tied tightly with bladder, and kept in a cold place till wanted. Probable cost, pork, 9d. or lOd. per pound. Pork Sausages, Dressed. Pork sausages may be either baked, broiled, boiled, or fried. The usual way of cooking is to fry them : the best way is to bake them. To fry them : Put the sausages into a frying-pan over a clear fire with a little piece of butter in the pan to keep them from burning. Koll and turn them ftbout that they may be equally cooked. The time required will depend upon the size of the sausages. If large, they will need twenty minutes ; if small, ten or fifteen minutes will be enough. To bake sausages : Put them in a tin in a single laj'er, and place them in a moderate oven. Turn them over when they are half done, that they may be equally browned all over. The advantage of cooking sausages in this way is that the} get cooked through, and are consequentlj much more wholesome. Time, one hour to one hour and a haK. To broil sausages: Prick small sausages on both sides to keep them from bursting, and broil them till they are done enough. Serve on a hot dish. They wiU require from eight to twelve minutes. To boil sausages : Plunge them into boiling water, let them boil up, di-aw the saucepan to the side, and simmer gently for half an hour. Pork sausages should be served very hot, either on fresh toast or round a mound of mashed jjotatocs. Brown-sauce, apple-sauce, or tomato-sauce may be sent to table with them. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Pork Sausages for Eating Cold. Put two pounds of pork, fat and lean together, and two pounds of lean beef into a pickle for ten days {see Pork, Pickled). Take the meat out. wash, drain, and dry it, mince it finely, season with a little black pepper, salt, and allspice, mix thoroughly, and put it into skins. Tie the ends securely, wrap the sausages in one fold of muslin, and hang them in smoke, as hams, are hung, until they turn red. When wanted, throw them into boiling water, let them simmer gently until done enough, let them get cold, and_ serve cut into thin slices. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per pound. Pork Sausages without Skins. Prepare the sausages aicdidingto the directions. already given {act' Pdilc Sausages) ; and when the ingi-edients are thoroughly mixed, bind them together with two or three well-beaten eggs. Make them into small rolls, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them over a clear fire until they are nicely browned. Send good brown gravy to table with t?iem. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Pork Saveloys. Take three pounds of tender pork free from skin and sinew ; rub it well with half an ounce of saltpetre and eight ounces of common salt. Leave it for three or four days, and turn and rub it every day. Mince finely, and mix with it a heaped teaspoonful of white i epper, half a dozen young sage-leaves chopped small, and half a pound of finely-grated bread-cnimbs. Mix these ingredients thoroughlj-. Fill the skins which have been i repared according to the directions given in the recipe for making pork sausages, tie them securely at both ends, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake half an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Pork, Scambled (an Ameiican dish). Soak a pound of salt pork to freshen it. Drain it, cut it into pieces about an inch square ; fry these in hot fat, and move them about that they may be equally cooked. When they are almostdone enough, stir in with them from six to twelve well-beaten eggs, and beat all quickhtogether. AVhen the eggs are set, turn the mixture upon a hot dish, and send boiled, baked, or roasted potatoes to table with it. If the pork gives out a good deal of fat whilst it is; being fried, pour it oS before dishing the meat. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost,, pork, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pork, Shoulder of. Marinaded (a German mode of cooking). Lay a shoulder of pork in a deep earthen pan, pour over it half a pint of vinegar, and put with it a dessertspoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of bruised peppercorns, half a lemon, two onions sliced, a tea-spoonful of juniper berries, half a dozen cloves, and a bay-leaf. Let the pork lie in this pickle for five days, and turn and rub it every day. Take it up, di-ain it, cover it with oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire, though at some distance from it. Baste liberally with the strained pickle. For sauce, mix a quarter of a pint of the pickle with a quarter of a pint of cold water ; add half a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, and a little pepper and salt if required. Serve in a tureen. POR (613) POR Pork, Spare-rib of, Roasted. A spare-rib of pork usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly not exactly according to its weight, but the thickness of the meat upon it, which varies very much. Lay the thick end nearest to the fire. A proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds' weight (so called because almost all the mea.t is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done in an hour and a quarter there is so little meat on a bald spare-rib that if you have a large, fierce fire it will be burnt before it is wai-m through. Joint it nicely, and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and baste with a little butter. Dry a dozen sage-leaves, rub them thi'ough a hair sieve, and put them into the top of a pepper-bo.x, and about a quarter of an hourbefore the meat is done baste it with butter, then dust pulverised sage, or sprinkle with duck-stufiing. Some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the thick part at the bottom of the bones. "VATien this meat is cut away the bones may be easily separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking. Apple-sauce, mashed potatoes, and good mustard, are indispensable. Pork, Spare-rib of. Roasted (another way). Sprinkle a handful of salt over the sparerib, and let it lie for a day or two. When it is to be cooked, brush or wash the salt off, joint the meat neatly, and crack the ribs across. Put it down to a clear and steady, but by no means fierce, fire, or the little meat that there is upon it will be dried up. Dredge a little flour over it, and baste well. About a quarter of an hour before it is done enough, sprinkle a little powdered sage over it, and send brown gravy and applesauce to table with it. Time, according to the thickness rather than the weight of the joint : say a quarter of an hour per pound, if thin. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Pork, Stewed with Vegetables (German recipe). Cut the heart of a large savoy into quarters. Put these into a large iron stewpan with half a dozen carrots cut into lengths, thi-ee turnips halved, eight moderatesized whole potatoes, and two pounds of fresh pork with more lean than fat in it. Season with pepper and salt, pour over them a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, cover the saucei an. closely, and let them stew as gently as possible until done enough. Serve the pork on a hot dish with the vegetables neatly arranged round it. Pour part of the gravy over the meat, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time to stew, from two and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pork, Stuffing for {see Onion and Sage Stuffing for Geese, Ducks, or Pork). Pork, Trichinatous. There are some dangers attending the consumption of pork, and to these we would here call attention. To the pig we are indebted for two of the most repulsive and dangerous worms ever introduced into the human system the Tmnia, or tapeworm, and Trichina. The latter is particularly [ deser\'ing of notice, as people in this country are often in the habit of eating cold foreign sausages and uncooked pork relishes liable to contain this deadly parasite. The first notice taken of Trichina spiralis seems to have been in 1822 by Tidemann; it was not, however, described till 1835, when it received the notice of Owen. From 1835 to 1859 it occupied pretty much the position of a curiosity, and was not regarded as dangerous. But immediately after the latter date a Prussian doctor had no fewer than six patients suftering in one year from trichinatous disease. Fear and interest were at once roused, and the excitement was augmented by the investigation of Zenker, a Prussian medical man of repute, who showed that the migrations of trichina) among human muscles, far from being harmless, as had hitherto been believed, produced symptoms of the most agonising sort, and terminated the existence even of the strong and healthy -within a few weeks after the unfortunate sufferers had partaken of the contaminated pork. Shortly after this namely, in October, 1863 at the little town of Helstadt, in Prussia, on a festive occasion, a hundred and thi-ee peoi le dined together. " Before a month had elapsed, twenty had died of trichinatous disease, eighty were in the excruciating agonies of the fearful malady, while the remainder, not yet attacked, lived in continual terror of the fatal worm. Case after case perished, lingeringly and horribly, as, although most of the leading physicians of the country were consulted, none were able to cure even assuage the pangs of the dying. At first it was suspected that the distemper was the result of intentional poisoning, but microscopical investigations of the remains of the feast revealed the cause of all the suffering and death. The damage had been done at the third course of the dinner, consisting of rmteicurst, or smoked sausage meat, which on examination turned out to have been made from an illconditioned pig that swarmed with encapsuled woi-ms." Facts such as these should put the public on their guai-d. It is a case for caution, however, and not one for unnecessary alarm, as will be seen from the following abstract of a paper read by Dr. Cobbold before the L:nna3an Society : " In England ordinary precautions will suffice to prevent the introduction of trichinasis. English swine are almost entirely, if not absolutely, free from this disease, and not a single case of trichinasis in the living human subject has been diagnosed in the United Kingdom. Some twenty or thirty cases have been discovered post mortem, but it is most probable that all these individuals had contracted the disease by eating German sausage or other preparation of foreign meat." In these days, when cheapness in the article of food is too often achieved by the saciificc of purity and care in its selection, no precautions can be unnecessary. Professor Kiihne, of Halle, who was engaged by the Prussian Government in 1865 to investigate the disease, states that "pigs affected with trichina! do not present symptoms sufficiently ob-\aous to be recognised by the breeders. The process of boiling or roasting should be carried on with the greatest care. People should not partake of any meat that has POR ( 614 ) POR not been sufficiently cooked, and should avoid all roast pork which presents traces of blood." Pork, Wholesomeness of. Pork is a very savourj' food, and uncommonly nourishing : it is thus suited to persons who lead an active or laborious life. It is not, however, easily digested. The too frequent and longcontinued use of this meat is held by medical men to favour obesity, produce foulness of the stomach and bowels, and occasion disorders of the skin. The llcsh of the suckingpig is considered a gTcat delicacy, and is nourishing, but it does not appear to be more wholesome than that of the grown animal. It is not readily dissolved in the stomach. Bacon is a coarse, heavy, and very indigestible food, only suited to be used as diet bj- the robust and by labouring people. The iiesh of the wild hog is dense, but sufficiently tender, very nourishing, and more savoury, as well as more easily digested, than that of the domestic hog. It is in season in October. The finest part is the head, and the flesh of the young wMd hog is considered a great delicacy. Pork, fat and lean together, has been shown to require about five hours for digestion. Thei-e is no doubt that much of the indigestibility of pork arises, not only from the fat, ostensibly existing as such, but from the large amount of fatt}' matter mixed with the muscular fibre. Porpoise. The porpoise, antiquarians tell us, was once a favourite at the tables of the great ; and King- Henrj VIII. gave occasion for some witticisms by his fondness for this archetj e of obesity ; if it was too large for a horse-load, an extra allowance was made to the purveyor. The sauce used was composed of vinegar, breadcrumb, and sugar. In some countries it is still eaten. The flesh of the young animal has been compared to veal, and is said to be well tasted. In Xorwa)', a delicate caviare has been made from its eggs. Occasionally a porpoise is brought to Billingsgate jMarket ; but instead of being food for kings, not even the beggar will touch it : it is bought only for show by the fishmongers. Porridge, Milk (we Milk Porridge). Porridge, Milk, Frencli. Soak two ounces of oatmeal in a half a pint of water. When the oatmeal has settled at the bottom and left the water clear, strain off, and add the same quantity of fresh, which should rest tiU the next day, and then lae passed through a fine sieve into a saucepan. When boiling, pour in the milk, and serve. This makes a wholesome breakfast for a delicate stomach. Time, half an hour to boil. Probable cost 4d. per pound. Porridge, Oatmeal. Oatmeal porridge is a leading article of food with the Scottish peasantiy. It is generally accompanied 'W'ith milk when milk is to be hnd; when milk is very scarce butter is sometimes used, sometimes sugar, and sometimes treacle beer. " For most persons in a sound condition of health," saj-s a north-country 's\Titer, "there is no more wholesome article of food than porridge and milk, none that contains a larger proportion both oi flesh-forming and heat-producing sub stances ; whilst to almost all who have ever been accustomed to its use, it is extremely palatable. Generall}' speaking, there is no better article of food for the nursery, none more likely to maintain a healthy condition of the stomach, or to give vigour to the frame, although there are exceptional cases, both amongst the young and amongst adults, in which the use of porridge is unsuitable, producing painful distention of the stomach and indigestion. Whilst the caprices of childi-en ought not to be heeded in such a matter, the actual condition of their constitutions ought to be carefully observed and regarded. Pomdge is in general made by simply boiling oatmeal in water, stii'ring all the time to prevent singeing, and to secure the thorough mixture of the meal and water into a homogeneous mass without knots. The qualitj of porridge very much depends on the amount of boiling which it receives. It cannot be too thoroughly boiled. Imperfectly boiled oatmeal porridge is a very coarse article of food ; and unfortunately much of the porridge used by the poorer classes in Scotland and elsewhere is of this character and the porridge prepared for the nursery is often no better, through the carelessness of servants who wish to get thi-ough their work with as little trouble as possible. It is not nearly so digestible, and, therefore, not so nutritious, as porridge really well made. A common mistake in the making of porridge must also here be noticed as tending much to the deteiioration of its quality the adding of meal by degrees, whilst the boiling goes on, until the proper thickness is acquired, the result being that part of the meal is imperfectly boiled. The cook ought to know the proper proportions of meal and water knowledge not very difficult to acquire and mix them at once, so that all the meal may be equally well boiled. But it is to be observed that the water must be boiling before the meal is put in, which is not to be introduced in a mass, but, as it were, strained through the fingeis handful by handful as quickly as possible. " Whey is sometimes used instead of water for the making of oatmeal porridge, and affords an agreeable variety to those in the habit of using poiTidge every day. Milk porridge is another variety esteemed an especial luxury by the Scottish peasantry, and is certainly both an agreeable and a very nutritious article of diet. Whether fine oatmeal or coarse oatmeal should be used for the making of porridge is merely a matter of taste." Porridge, Oatmeal (another way). Put a pint and a half of water or milk and water into a saucepan, and add a pinch of salt. W hen the liquid fully boils, as it is rising in the pan, sprinkle gradually two ounces of oatmeal into it with the left hand, and at the same time stir briskly with a fork held in the right hand. Keep stirring until the lumps are beaten out. Boil the mixture for two or three minutes, pour it on a plate, and eat it vnih. milk and sugar or treacle. A larger or a smaller quantity of oatmeal may be used according to taste. Porridge will be found to make a very nourishing and wholesome breakfast for children. The secret of making POR 615 ) POR it properly is to let the water Loil fust before putting in the oatmeal. Time, a quarter of an horn- from the tune the water boils. Probable cost, od. yulhcient for one person. Porridge, Oatmeal (another way). &c Oatmeal I'orridge. Porridge, Onion (?e Onion Porridge). Porridge, Peas [sec Peas Porridge). Porridge, Plum (?e Plum Porridge or Broth). Portable Soup. Take five pounds of the shin of beef and three pounds of the knuckle of veal. Cut the meat into small pieces. Take out the marrow from the bones, and break them up. Put them into a stewpan with two gallons of cold water ; bring this gradually to the boil, skim carefully, and add half a cupful of cold water two or three times to assist the scum in rising. Draw the soup to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently but continuously for eight or ten hours. Strain through a haii- sieve, and put it aside until the following day. Eemove the cake of fat from the top, and pour off the soup carefully, leaving behind the settlings which are at the bottom of the pan. Put it into a saucepan with a dozen pei percoms and a tea-spoonful of salt ; leave the pan uncovered, and let it boil quickly imtil the liquid begins to thicken. Pour it at once into a clean dry jar, place this in a saucepan over a gentle fire, and let it boil imtil it feels quite ropy and thick. Watch it carefully that it does not burn. Take a little out in a spoon, and if it jellies it is done enough. Pour it at once into small jellypots, and when it is cold turn the shapes out and put them on flannel in a warai place to dry. Keep them in tin canisters. If it is wished that the soup should be flavoured, sweet herbs, vegetables, and spices can be stewed with the meat, but usually it is more convenient that these should be omitted : the souj) can then be used for any pm-pose. When it is wanted it is only necessary to dissolve one or two of the cakes in boiling water, and make the soup of any strength or any flavoui- that is required. This poi-table soup, which was formerly very valuable for ordinary household purposes, and also for the use of those who were obliged to take their provisions with them on long journeys, is now almost entirely superseded by Liebig's Extract of Meat. Time, two days to make; eight or nine days to dry. Porter. A kind of malt liquor, which differs from ale and pale beer in its iDeing made ?with, high-dried malt. The origin of porter is highly curious. It is thus stated by Malone : "Before the year 1730 the malt "liquors in general use in London were ale, beer, and twopenny, and it was customary for the drinkers of malt liquor to call for a pint or a tankard of half-and-half that is, half of ale and half of beer, or half of beer and haK of twopenny. In course of time it also became the practice to caU for a pint or tankard of t u-ee threads meaning a third of ale, of beer, and of twopenny ; and thus the publicans had the trouble to go to three casks, and turn three cocks, for a pint of liquor. To avoid this inconvenience and waste, I a brewer of the name of Harwood conceived the idea of making a liquor which should partake of the united flavoui-s of ale, beer, and twopenny. He did so, and succeeded, calling it entire, or entire butt; and as it was a very heai-ty and nourishing liquor, it was very suitable for porters, or other working people ; hence it obtained the name of porter." It would hardly be possible to ascertain what was the precise quality of the porter of that time, but it was very hkely dift'erent in some respects from the beverage of the same name made at present, in consequence of changes in the ingredients and the mode of manufacture, as well as in the taste of the public, and also from enactments which have restricted the ingredients within narrower limits than those to which they were foi-merly confined. On the subject of porter we gain some interesting particulars from Dr. Hassall's "Food and its Adulterations." Porter should be brewed of malt and hops alone, and the colour and flavour should be due to these alone. The colour of all malt liquor depends upon the degree of heat to which the malt has been subjected in the kiln, and upon the amount of ripeness attained by the hops before being stripped from the poles. Thus for pale bitter ale one must prevent the husk of the malt from charring in the least, and maintain the original straw colour of the barley ; and in the selection of the hops care must be taken that they be picked as soon as sufiiciently ripe to keep, and that no single brown or withered leaf be suffered to remain. In the case of the malt and hops required for porter the reverse of aU this is the case. " The malt should be briskly di-ied until the flower of the grain is of a light brown colour, and crushes with a crisp friability between the teeth; the hops, also, should have hung in the autumn sun till they have attained a rich golden hue, and the seeds are perfectly developed. AVith all attention to these requirements, however, the beer brewed would still be far from the necessary colour and flavour-, and to attain these the maltster is compelled to prepare malt in a peculiar manner. It must be remembered, nevertheless, that the strength of the porter is due almost entirely to the pale malt, as the other kinds have their saccharine properties so dried up and burnt as to render them nearly useless, except for colour and flavour. "In addition to these distinctive properties of porter, there is one other of still greater importance, the peculiarity of the fermentation. Up to the conmiehcement of this last stage of the process of brewing, the manufacture of porter is conducted in exactly the same manner as that of ale, with the addition of the different flavouring malts before mentioned ; but during the fermentation the great difference is effected, as all the sugar is converted into spirit, excepting only such portion as is required to preserve the beer from the acetous fermentation, which is less than in ale, by reason of the larger amount of hops used in proportion to the strength of the work. Ordinary ale is more liable to damage the stomach by reason of its greater sweetness, while porter is more heady in proportion to its POR (616) POR strength and soporific in its tendency, from the strong infusion of hojjs in its composition." According to Mr. Donovan, the following formula will afford excellent porter: For every hogshead of keeping drink, or a hogshead and a third of diink for speedy consumption : the ingredients, when the thermometer stands at 55¦, may be used in these relative quantities : the grist, in all twelve stone, should consist of a stone and a half of amber malt, i\ pound and a lialf of patent malt (that is, malt resolved into mere colouring matter by charring), and all the rest is to be pale malt. The quantity of water for the different "mashings, if the porter is for immediate use, and a hogshead and a third is to be produced, should be such that the gravity of the worts on Dicas's saccharometer will De 55 pounds per barrel when all the v ort3 are mixed. In sunmier, three pounds oi t-est Kent hops wiU be required ; but in winter a quarter or half pound less will answer sufficiently well for preservation. If the ch-ink is to be brewed for keeping, the quantity of malt and hops must be increased in j roportion to the time. Porter, Adulteration of. The following are the substances said to have been employed for the adulteration of porter, and the eiiects which they are intended to produce : " Quassia, gentian, wormwood, broom-tops, nux vomica, and strychnine, to impart bitterness in lieu of hops ; capsicums and gi-ains of paradise (in concentrated tinctures), ginger, corianders, orange-peel, and caraway-seeds, to give pungency and flavour ; opium, cocculus Indicus, nux vomica, tobacco, extract of poppies, and the tincture and juice of henbane, to impart intoxicating properties or ' strength ; ' molasses, colouring, sugar, burnt sugar, and corianders, as substitutes for malt ; sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) , alum, green vitriol, and common salt, to impart an appearance of age; and 'foots,' pearlash, Scotch soda, and some of the articles beforenamed, as ' heading or to give the beer the property of bearing its 'head' or 'froth.' " Porter, Bottling of. For this clear weather should if possible be chosen. Leave the bung out of the cask all night, fill the bottles, cover with sheets of paper to keep out the dust, and let them stand twenty-four hours ; then cork them, and pack away in a cool place. If for immediate use, porter may be ripened in two or three days by adding a small piece of sugar to each bottle before corking. Porter Cup. Cut two small lemons into thin slices, and put them into a bowl, carefuUy leaving out the pips. Pour over them a teacupful of sherry and a pint of porter. Add the eighth of a nutmeg grated ; mix all thoroughly, ice, and serve. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Sufficient for a quart cup. Porter Jelly or Ale Jelly (see Ale or Porter Jelly). Porter, Wholesomeness of. " Good ripe strong beer or porter," says Dr. Andi'ew, " in moderation, or in draughts of not more than half a pint, twice or even thrice a day where active exertion and outdoor labours are combined, can do no possible injury, and in many cases may do much good ; and it is a most valuable auxiliary in the treatment of those fevers usually denominated putrid. Carbonic acid is combined in considerable quantity with the nourishing and tonic qualities of this vinous liquor, and in many cases it proves not only a substitute for wine, but in a great variety of instances even superior to that more expensive liquor." " There are few medical men," says another professional authority, " who wiU not testify to the highly beneficial effects which follow the use of good porter in many cases ; it is, in fact, an admirable tonic, superior to any other fonn of malt liquor, and especially so, because it is less likely to disagree and to become acid on the stomach than the other varieties of malt beverage. Dr. Prout recommends the use of porter in diabetes, not only for its tonic properties but as less likely to i rove injurious in many cases of that disease than any other drink. In convalescence from acute disease porter is a strengtheningmedium, most grateful to the patent. In order to prove of service, porter must not be flat ; it is therefore better, for invalids at least, to drink it bottled." Portland Pudding. Beat separately the whites and yolks of four eggs. Put the yolks into a bowl, and mix with them very gradually haU' a pound of di-ied flour. Beat the batter till it is quite free from lumps. Stir into it four ounces of moist sugar, six ounces of clarified butter, one ounce each of candied lemon and candied orange-peel, the two last being finely shred. Add a pinch of salt, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, one poiznd of stoned raisins, and last of all the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Beat the pudding five or six minutes. Pour it into a buttered basin, tie it in a cloth, and leave room for the pudding to swell. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, five hours. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Portuguese Apple Pie. Line the inside of a moderate-sized pie-dish with good crust. Put into it half a dozen good bakingapples, which have been pared, cored, and cut into thin slices. Sprinkle a little sugar and two or three inches of thin lemon-rind cut into narrow strips over them. Spread a small portion of apricot jam upon them, and cover the whole with a cold custard made with half a pint of milk and six well-beaten eggs. The custard should be sweetened, and may be flavoured - -ith lemon, almond, or any other flavouring. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Portuguese Cakes. Beat haK a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Add half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, half a pound of fine flour, and the yolks of five eggs. Beat the ingredients thoroughly, and mix in gradually a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, a glass of sherry, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and last of all the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Beat Plate VU. r Waller MlS.HactonGa.-deu !. Pigeon Pie. 2. Came Pie. 3, Roast Turkey, Garnished. 4". Fillets OF Fowl&Toncue. 5. Braised Legs of Fowl with Fillets of Tongue. POR (G17) POS the mixture for some minutes, pour it into small buttered tins, and bake in a brisk oven from fifteen minutes to half an hour, according to the size of the tins. Probable cost, Is. lOd., exclusive of the sherry. Portuguese Cakes (another way). Take halt a pound of fi ; and the yolks of six eggs. Put these into a basin, and work with a spoon till frothy. Pound four ounces of almonds with the white of an egg, pass them through a sieve, add a pinch of orange-sugar, and dilute with the juice of four oranges. As soon as the cake-preparation is frothy, add to it carefully four ounces of potato-flour. Next add the almonds and orange-juice, together with the six whipped whites of eggs. Pour the mixture on a bakingsheet with an up-standing border, the bakingsheet being buttered and covered with paper. Spread the mixture in a layer one inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven. When the cake has cooled, face it on the top and mask on this side, first with a thin layer of apricot marmalade, and afterwards with a layer of orange-icing sugar. Divide the cake immediately into squares, and let the glaze dry. The orangeicing sugar is prepared with sugar passed through a silk sieve, mixed with sugar rubbed against the peel of an orange, and then grated. Dilute the sugar to the requisite degree with some orange- juice. Portuguese Fritters. Put half an inch of stick cinnamon and the rind of half a small lemon into a pint of milk. Let the liquid remain a little time till the milk is slig-htly flavoured, then povu- it, without straining it, into a saucepan, and put with it six ounces of best Carolina rice, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little sugar. Let it simmer very gently until the rice is quite tender and has absorbed all the milk. Pour the preparation out, beat it well for two ?r three minutes, and stir into it the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. When it is a little cool, make it into balls about an inch and a half in diameter, and carefully introduce into the centre of each a small portion of orange marmalade. Brush the balls over with beaten egg, and dip them into finely-grated breadcrumbs. Put them into a wii-e frying-basket, and plunge them into as much hot fat as will quite cover them. Let them remain until they are lightly browned, drain them carefully, and serve piled on a napkin and covered with sifted sugar. Time to boil the rice, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for si.x or seven persons. Portuguese Pudding. Boil half a pint of milk with three inches of thin lemon-rind. Stir into it, when boiling, three dessert-spoonfuls of ground rice which has been mixed smoothly with three table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir the mixture over the fire for two minutes after it boils, then pour it out to cool. Add a little sugar, together with the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Wlien done enough, take out the pudding, and let it stand until it is cold and stiff. Before serving, lay upon it a little cjlincot or anv othrr fine jam. Time to bake, 41 about three quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the jam. Suflicient for a small dish. Portuguese Sauce (for fish). Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs, and mix them with four ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of lemonjuice. Put these ingredients into an earthen jar, and set this in a small saucepan of hot water. Put the pan on a slow fire, and beat the contents of the jar unceasingly until the sauce begins to thicken. Add a small quantity of water in order to make it of the consistence of thick cream. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Port Wine Jelly. Put an ounce of best isinglass into a perfectly clean saucepan with half a pint of cold water. Stir this over the fire until it boils, then draw it to the side, and let it sinuner gently for half an hour. Put with it an ounce of sugar and a pint of port. Strain through a jelly-bag, and put it in a cool place to set. This jelly is considered very nourishing for invalids. Time, one hour to prepare. Posset, This is an old and popular domestic preparation for the sick, made with milk curdled by means of treacle, beer, and other articles. Posset, Ale. Boil a pint of new milk with a slice of toasted bread. Pour a bottle of mild ale into a bowl, add sugar and spices to taste, then pour the boiling milk over it. A fine head should rise. Posset, Corn Flour (for a cold). Mix a quarter of a pint of sherry gradually and smoothly with half an ounce of corn-flour. Add one ounce and a half of pure honey and two cloves, and put the mixture into a saucepan. Stir over a gentle fire for four or five minutes, strain, and drink the posset warm the last thing at night. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Suflicient for one person. Posset, Pope's {sec Pope's Posset). Posset, Sack. Boil some cream and sweet biscuits grated ; add sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Warm some sherry; stir it into the cream. Then pour the whole quickly from one vessel to another until it is quite smooth. Eggs beat up in milk may be used instead of Posset, Treacle (for a cold). Boil half a pint of milk, and stir into it, as it is rising in the pan, one table -spoonful of good treacle. Let it boil until the curd separates, then strain it off, and serve the posset very hot. A little water may be added if it is too sweet, and drj toast maj' be eaten with it. Time, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 'ij-d. Suflicient for one person. Posset, Treacle (another way). Take half a pint of new milk, one wine-glassful of shciTy or marsala, and one or two table-spoonfuls of treacle. Heat these ingredients together in a clean saucepan till the milk coagulates. This preparation sometimes called treacle posset and sometimes molasses posset is highly esteemed in some parts of the country as a POS (618 ) POT domestic remedy for colds. It is taken before going to bed. Lemon-juice, strong old ale, or even vinegar, is sometimes substituted for wine, and powdered ginger or nutmeg added to taste. Posset Wine. Grate finely the crumb of a stale roll, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of water and two large lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of a Seville orange until the yellow part has been taken off. Let the mixture simmer until it is thick and clear, then add a pint of light wine, two ounces of sweet almonds, and six bitter ones blanched and pounded, half the juice of the Seville orange, and sugar to taste. Mix thoroughly, and serve. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the wine. Potage (a la Colbert). Take a quarter of a pound of carrot and a quarter of a pound of turnip, and turn them into squares, diamonds, rounds, or any other shapes of uniform size. Boil them in slightly salted water until they are (Jone enough. Drain them, and put them into a clean stevsq an, with three pints of nicelyflavoured chicken broth.' Let them boil a minute ; then serve the soup. Send half a dozen poached eggs to table on a separate dish. Time, about an hour. Suflficient for five or six persons. Potage (a la Conde). Take a quart of French beans, place them in a stewpan with two quarts of consomme, a pound of bacon, three carrots, three onions (one of them stuck with cloves), a bunch of leeks, and two heads of celery. Let all simmer together for three hours. Take out the vegetables, pulp them into the soup, and boil all together again. Fry bread in dice and serve in the soup. Potage (a la Crecy) . A superlative carrot soup. SHce off the red part of a dozen large cari'ots, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a large lump of sugar, three good-sized onions, two turnips, a dozen peppercorns, a quarter of a pound of undressed lean ham, the outer sticks of two heads of celery, and four leeks. Cover closely, and let the soup steam over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Shake the saucepan to keep the contents from burning. Pour over them a quart of cold stock or water, and let them simmer gently for two hours, or until the vegetables are quite tender. Strain off the soup, and press the vegetables with a wooden spoon through a sieve. Mix the pulp again with the stock, season with pepper and salt, put it back into the stewpan, and let it boil. Draw it to the side of the fire for a few minutes, and skim off the fat as it rises to the surface. Add pepper and salt, and serve. Send toasted sippets to table in a separate dish. If there is no stock at hand, and water has to be used for the soup, a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat should be added to it. Time, three hours and a half. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Potage (a la Reine). This is a delicate white soup, said to be a great favourite with Her Majesty. Skin and wash carefully three young chickens or two large fowls, and boil them in five pints of good nicely-flavoured veal stock for about an hour. Lift them out, pick off all the white meat, put the bodies of the birds again into the stewpan, and let them. simmer an hour and a half longer. Season the broth -with salt and cayenne, and when it is sufficiently simmered pour it out, let it cool, and thoroughly take off the fat which rises to the surface. Pound the white flesh of the birds to a perfectly smooth paste, and with it a tea-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. IVIix gi-adually with this paste a small quantity of the boiling stock, and press it through a fine hair sieve. Add the rest of the stock, and stir the whole over a gentle fire in a clean saucepan until it boils. Add from a pint to a pint and a half of boiling cream. Serve very hot. If liked, the cream may be slightly flavoiired with almonds. If veal broth is not at hand, a little may be made as follows : Buy a knuckle of veal from which nearly all the meat has been cut off. Break it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with haH a pound of lean ham cut up small or a ham bone a small carrot, a small onion, a head of celery, a large blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, and a dozen white peppercorns. Pour over these a gallon of cold water. Bring the liquid slowly to the boil, skim very carefully, then draw the pan to the side and let the contents simmer for six or seven hours until the stock is reduced to five pints. Pour the soup out, and leave it until the next day. Take the fat from the top, and pour off the soup without the settlings. Boil the fowls in this stock. If the soup is not sufficiently thick, it may be made so with a little arrowroot or ground rice. Time, about four hours. Probable cost, Is. 8d. per pint, exclusive of the veal stock. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Potage (a la Xavier). Mix the wellbeaten yolks of four eggs and the white of one with three-quarters of a pint of flour. Add a little pepper and salt, the eighth part of a nutmeg grated, and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and mix aU the ingredients thoroughly. Stir in as much stock as will make the batter thin enough to pass through a colander. Boil two quarts of strained and nicely-flavoured stock. Put the batter into it by means of a ladle perforated with holes, and stir well as Jlong as it is on the fire. Skim carefully. Boil a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, 7d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Potage, Bisque {see Crayfish Soup or Potage Bisque). Potage de Veau. Take a knuckle of veal weighing about five pounds. Cut off the meat, not too closely, and break the bone into small pieces. Put these into a stewi an with an onion, a large blade of mace, a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of parsley, and a small sprig of thyme. Pour over all two quarts of cold water. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the liquid gently for six hours. Strain the soup, and leave it until the next day ; it ought to form a jelly. Put it, free from fat and sediment, into a stewpan, +with a little pepper and salt, and any vegetables or mixture of vegetables that may be chosen. Jerusalem POT ( G19 ) POT artichokes, seakalc, and celery, are the most suitable. Stew these until they are quite tender, and press them through a hair sieve. 3Iake the soup hot, mix with it half a pint of Ijoiling cream, and serve. Send fried crusts to table on a separate dish. Time to simmer the soup, five hours the first day from the time the water reaches the boiling point; one hour and a half the second. Probable cost, varjdng with the ingredients. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Potato. The potato on its introduction into the British Islands {sec Potato, History of the) was served at first as a delicacy, and came vei-y slowly into general use, though now it constitutes one of the cheapest and most common Ivinds of vegetable food. It is not very nutritious ; indeed, it is less so than any other vegetable {see Potato, Nutritive Properties of the) ; nevertheless its cultivation has again and again prevented famine in agricultural districts, and it is well known that the Irish a hardy and healthy race subsisted for some time almost entirely upon it. There are a great many varieties of potato, and generally each locality has its favourite, which is known by the local name. Its excellence, however, depends to a very large extent upon the cooking; and whilst a good potato may be spoiled by bad cooking, an inferior potato may, v ith proper management, bo lendered comparatively good. It is to be feared, however, that large quantities of potatoes are constantly wasted in many families, owing to the way in which they are dressed. Potato and Almond Pudding. Mash six oimces of boiled potatoes, dry and fiom-y, till they are perfectly smooth. Blanch three ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, and pound them, but not finely, with a little orange-flower water. Let them simmer in half a pint of new milk until the flavour is drawn out, and dissolve in the milk four ounces of fresh butter and four ounces of powdered sugar. Stir the mixture into the potatoes, add a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, and the rind and juice of half a lemon. Beat the pudding till it is light and smooth, and add separately the yelks and well-whisked whites of five eggs. Line a pie-dish with pufl'-paste, and pour in the mixtiu'e. Chop half a dozen almonds rather coarsely, strew them over the pudding, and bake in a well-heated oven for one hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato and Almond Pudding (another way) . Si-e Almond and Potato Pudding. Potato and Leek Soup {see Leek and Potato Soup). Potato Balls. Steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, and beat them till they are quite smooth and free from lumps. Mix with them two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two table-spoonfuls of boiling cream or milk. Make them into baUs the size of a walnut, brush each one over with beaten egg, and fry in hot butter until they are nicely browned. If liked, a little gi-ated ham, a finelyminced shallot, or a little chopped parsley, may be added to the potatoes, and the mixtui'c may be bound together with the yolk of an egg. Send good brown gravy to table with the potato balls. Time, ten minutes to fry the potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Balls (another way). Mash one pound of diy mealy potatoes until they are qtiite smooth. Before they have time to cool, luix with them a tablo-spoonful of hot milk, one ounce and a haK of clarified butter, a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Beat the mixture till these ingredients are thoroughly blended, then add the Avhites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Jlould the preparation into small balls the size of a large marble, and fry in hot fat until they are lightly browned. Drain, and serve the balls piled on a hot napkin. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or foiir persons. Potato Balls (another way). Cook some potatoes in steam or boiling water, mash them, mix with them some butter, salt, parsiey, chives chopped small, grated nutmeg, and a few raw eggs. Make the potatoes into balls, cover with raw eggs beaten up, and fry them. Potato balls may also be cooked in stock broth, or in boiling water, and sent to table with tomato or other sauce. Potato Beer. In Silesia potato beer is made thus cheaply: " Twenty-five gallons from half a bushel of potatoes, ten pounds of malt, half a pound of hops, and two quarts of yeast. The cost of one tun of such beer is said not to exceed two shillings and twopence ; consequently the cost of a quart does not amount to one farthing." Potato Biscuits. Bake half a dozen large potatoes, and when they are done enough, burst them open, and scoop out the ins'ide with a tea-spoon until there is a quarter of a pound of the flour. Pass this thi-ough a fine sieve, and mix with it the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, the grated peel of half a lemon, and haK a pound of pounded and sifted sugar. Beat the paste until it is quite light, then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a fii-m froth. Make some small paper cases, oil them, and half fill thexi with the batter. Strew a Uttle sugar over them, and bake in a moderate oven. If Uked, a little bright-coloured jelly may be put over the biscuits before serving. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Potato Biscuits (M. Udes' recipe). Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into one pan and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, dry that, and pound it fine also ; then throw into it the yolks, and work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next, whip the whites well, and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper cases ready, which lay on a plafond, with some paper imdemeath. Fill the cases, but not too fuU ; glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. POT ( 620 ) POT Potato Bread. In making bread, a portion of mashed potato is sometimes added to the flour, and this addition improves the bread very much for many tastes ; it also keej s it from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time it is not so nutritious as ordinary homemade bread. Boil the required quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then peel and weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from lumps, and mix with them the flour, in the proportion of seven pounds of flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast, and knead in the ordinary waj-, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When the dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. Bake it a little longer than for ordinarj bread, and when it seems done enough, let it stand a little while, with the oven door open, before taking it out. Unless these precautions are taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, while the inside is still moist and doughy. Potato Bread, (another way). Rasp or bruise the potatoes by a rasp or mill, dry the pulp, and reduce it to flour, which may then be made into bread, with the ordinary proportions of yeast. When potato flour is mixed with wheaten flour in equal proportions, it makes excellent bread, being light, and capable of keeping a long time. Bread made with potato flour alone is not, however, to be compared with wheaten broad. The following is a way of introducing potatoes into wheaten bread : Boil five i oimds of potatoes well, and dry them over a fire or in the oven until they fall to pieces and become flour, which they will do if properly managed. IMake of them a batter-like, thick gruel ; strain this through a coarse sieve or colander ; then mix this instead of water with twenty pounds of flour. If the yeast be good, the bread thus made will be as light and agreeable as that made of all flour. Potato Cake. Take half a pound of drjfloury potatoes which have been baked or boiled and then crushed and beaten with a rolUngpin until thej are quite free from lumps. Mix \\-ith them three ounces of flour and a little pepper and salt, and add to them as much lukewarm milk and butter as will make a smooth, Arm dough. Add either a little yeast or an egg, and half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Roll this paste out till it is about two inches thick, and then dredge a little flour over it. Cut it out to the exact size of the pan in which it is to be baked. Rub the saucepan over with butter or dripping before putting the cake into it, lay it in very carefully, cover with a plate, shake it every now and then to keep it from burning, and bake on the trivet of the stove over a gentle fire. When it is half done on one side, turn it carefully upon the other. Serve on a hot dish. Cold potatoes, if drj- and floury, may be warmed up in this way. Time to bake the cake, about half an hour. Potato Cake (another way). Peel mealy baked potatoes, mash, and put them into a saucepan with salt, grated lemon peel, and fresh butter, stirring the whole well. Add orange-flower water, the yolks of eight eggs, the whites whisked of four, and mix the whole with the potato puree. Pour into a buttered mould, and bake. Potato Cake, Sweet. Bake the required number of potatoes, and when they are done enough, burst them, and scoop out the contents with a spoon. Crush them until they are quite smooth, and weigh them. Mix with half a pound of potato two ounces of powdered sugar, a little candied-peel cut into thin strips, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. When these ingredients are thoroughly blended, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Put the mixture into a buttered dish, sift a little sugar over the surface, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve the cake hot in the dish in which it was baked. Time to bake, about haL? an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Cake, Sweet (another way). Take a quarter of a pound of boiled potatoes, dry and floury, and beat them to flour. Mix with this one ounce of ground rice, an ounce of sweet almonds and four bitter ones blanched and pounded together, and thi-ee ounces of sugar rubbed upon a fresh lemon for a few minutes to extract the flavour and then crushed to powder. Mix these dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them the wellbeaten yolks of five eggs. Beat the mixture for five or six minutes, and add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Turn the paste into a well-buttered tin, and bake in a brisk oven for about forty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for a small cake. Potato Cakes, Rub two ounces of good beef dripping and two ounces of lard into one pound of flour, add a tea-spoonful of bakingpowder, a pinch of salt, and a pound of potato flour which has been obtained by scooping out the inside from some hot baked potatoes. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them a well-beaten egg and as much lukewarm milk as will make a smooth, light paste. Roll this out to the thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and cut it into squares or rounds. Lay these on a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. When the cakes are lightly browned on one side, turn them upon the other. Cut them open, butter them as soon as they are taken out of the oven, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Potato Cakes, German, to serve with. Game or Poultry. Beat up two or three pounds of hot boiled potatoes, dry and meal}-, with a slice of butter and two or three eggs. Rub the mash with a wooden spoon iintil it is quite smooth, and spread it out in a layer about three-quarters of an inch thick. Stamp it into shapes with an ordinary pastrycutter, brush these over with beaten egg, cover with bread-crumbs, and sprinkle lightly upon them a little grated Parmesan. Fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned, drain them on blotting-paper, and serve very hot. If liked, they may be used to garnish the dish they are to accomj any. Time, four or five minutes to brown the cakes. Probable cost, lOd. Suflicieut for four or five persons. POT ( 621 ) POT Potato Cheese. Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany ; they can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not too rich, and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be large and of the best quality. "When boiled carefully peel them, and beat them to a smooth paste iu a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese tub, with one pound of milk and rennet ; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together with caraways and cimiin seed, sufficient to impart a good flavour-. Knead all these ingredients well together, cover up, and allow them to stand three or four days in winter, and two or three in summer. At the end of that time, knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses to di-ain until they are quite dry. \Vhen dry and firm, lay them on a board, and leave them gradually to acquire hardness in a place of very moderate warmth ; should the heat be too gxeat, as we have already said, they will burst. When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly diy and hard, place them in barrels with green chickweed between each cheese ; let them stand for about three weeks, when they will be fit for use. Potato Cheese (other ways). A better potato cheese than that produced by following the preceding recipe may be made with four pounds of potato paste, and two pounds of milk and rennet ; one still better by mixing three pounds of potato paste, with thi-ee pounds of milk and rennet; and one better still by adding three pounds of milk and rennet to two pounds of potato paste. But the most delicate of potato cheeses is prepared in the following manner : Mix one part of potato paste with three parts of milk and rennet salted. Knead in the way prescribed in the foregoing recipe, and leave the mixtui'e in the moulds for thi-ce or four days, when at the bottom of each mould there will be found a layer of cheese about threequarters of an inch thick. On the surface of this spread with a spoon a piece of fresh butter a little larger than a plover's egg, and over this strew a mixture of pounded mace and caraway seeds. On this now place another similar cheese, with the same ingredients spread over its surface. Continue adding cheese after cheese imtil the basket is full. After a time, which varies according to the state of the weather, all these layers will be f oimd adhering together and forming one large cheese. Take this out, and place it on a board to dry gradually. This cheese will keep for many years. Potato Cheese (a Saxon recipe). Potato cheese is made thus in Saxony : Boil potatoes of the large white kind, and when cool peel them, and reduce them to a pulp by a gi-ater or a mortar. To evory seven pounds of this pulp, add a pint of sour milk, and salt to taste. Knead the whole together, cover it up, and let it remain three or four days ; at the end of which time, knead it again, form it into cheeses, and place the cheeses in small baskets to drain. Dry them in the shade in layers in pots. Potato cheeses are always much improved by keeping. Potato Cheesecakes. Rub twe ounces of lump sugar upon the rind of half a smaU lemon until the yellow part is taken off, then crush them to powder. Mix with this three ounces of boiled potatoes, dry and floury, two ounces of clarified butter, and the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and add at the last moment the white of an egg beaten to a firm froth. Line the patty-pans with puff paste, half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. Or, take a quarter of a pound of boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Bruise them well, and let them cool a little, then mix with them two ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs and three ounces of loafsugar which has been rubbed upon half a small lemon and crushed to powder. Add three ounces of fresh butter which has been beaten to a cream, and three eggs. The eggs should be added separately, and the mixture should be well beaten between each addition. Three-parts fill the hned patty -pans, and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. Potato Cheesecakes (another way). See Cheesecakes, Potato). Potato Cones, or Loaves. Prepare some potatoes according to the directions given for potato balls. Form them into balls or cones, brush them over with beaten egg, and place them in the pan under a roasting joint, which is sufficiently cooked to drop the gravy with the fat. Turn them abou.t that they may be equally browned, and allow a little of the gravy to drop upon them. Send them to table with the meat, but on a separate dish. Time to brown the cones, about twenty minutes. Potato Cottage Pudding. Take half a pound of boiled potatoes, diy and floury. Beat until they are quite smooth, and add a pinch of salt, the grated rind and strained juice of a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two ounces of clarified butter or good beef dripping, and two well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, turn it into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated OYcn. The flavour of the pudding may be varied by the addition of a few washed and dried cui-rants, or an ounce of blanched and pounded almonds, or a glassful of sherry. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Croquettes.- Bake half a dozen large jiotatoes (regents). When done enough, burst them open, and scoop out the contents with a spoon. Beat the pulp imtil it is quite smooth, then put it into a clean saucepan with the yolks of one or two eggs, a piece of butter the size ef a walnut, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Beat this mixture over a moderate fire, iintil it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon, then spread it out on a dish and let it cool. Shape it into balls ; POT (622) POT dip these in beaten egg, then into bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot i'at until they are equally and lightly browned. Let them di-ain before I the fire, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve immediately. If liked, the potato paste can be I shaped into the foim of corks or pears, a little i piece of parsley-stalk being stuck into them i to imitate the stalk. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. Potato Dumpling. Take three parts of dry floury boUcd potatoes, and beat them till they are quite smooth. Put with them one part of wheaten flour, a little salt, and as much nulk as is wanted to make a tolerably firm paste. Pour the mixtui-e into a buttered basin, or tic it in a floui'cd cloth, and boil until it is firm and light. Serve either with brown gravy, melted butter, cooked apples, stewed prunes, 1 jam, treacle, or sweet sauce. This preparation of food, though not much known in England, forms a daily meal of poor artisans and others in North Germany, with whom meat is a very unusual luxury. It is cheap, simple, and wholesome. Potato Flour, The farina of the potato, properly granulated and dried, is frequently sold as a substitute for arrowroot. It may be successfully prepared at home, and will be found useful for thickening soups, and for making puddings easy of digestion for children and invalids. If kept diy it will remain good for years. Peel and wash some good mealy potatoes those which have a yellow tint are the best for the purpose. Grate them upon a bread grater into a large pan of cold water, stu- them well together, then strain the mass through a sieve. Let the grated potatoes settle until the water is quite clear. Pom* the water oflt, and add fresh, stir up, and let it settle as before ; and repeat until the water is quite clear, and the powder remaining at the bottom of the pan is pure white and fine. Spread the potato sediment upon dishes, and diy it in the sun or before the fire. Turn it frequently. Pound it in a mortar, pass it through a haii- sieve, put it into jars, and cork securely. It ?will be quite white and flavourless. Time, ten minutes to stand each time between changing the waters. The changes to be repeated until the water that comes from it, after being stirred, is quite pure. A table-spoonful of potato flour mixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, stirred into a pint of boiling soup or sauce, and boiled for half a minute, will make the liquid of the tonsistence of thick cream. Potato Flour (another way). This flour is obtained by grating any quantity of good mealy potatoes, and steeping them in a vessel of water for six or eight hours. Change the ?water, and stir every three hours during the day. Pour ofl: this water at night, covering again with fresh water as before. In the morning strain the flour into a hair sieve. Have ready a clean vessel in which to stand the sieve, and wash the flom- through it. Allow it to settle, then pour o?E the water, and spread the sediment on dishes to be put into a slow oven. It wiU diy quite white, and keep good in jars, closely sealed up, for a considerable time. Potato Flour, Arrowroot (see Anowroot Potato Flour). Potato Flour, Miscellaneous Observations on. Potato flour can be made into a jelly in the same way as aiTowroot. It must first be moistened with cold water, then put into a bowl, and boiling water very gradually poured on it, stirring all the time, and in a few minutes the jelly will be formed. A little salt or sugar may be mixed with the moistened flour before the warm water is added, and a little milk will make it very palatable. Potato flour boiled with milk and a little sugar forms one of the most palatable, wholesome, and cheap dishes of which a labouring man can partake, and caimot be too strongly recommended to cottagers, who ought always to convert a portion of then- potato crop into floui-, to be used when fresh potatoes cannot be got. Potato Flour Pudding, Baked. Boil the thin rind of a lemon, or any other flavouring that may be preferred, in a quart of milk. Mix thi'ce table- spoonfuls of potato flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, pour the hot liquid upon this, and stir it until it is cool. Add a little sugar, from three to five well-beaten eggs, and a little brandy or sherry if liked. Orange marmalade stirred into the pudding is by many considered an improvement. The pudding may be baked before the fire in an American or Dutch oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Potato Flour Pudding, Steamed. Pour a pint of boihng milk, nicely flavoui-ed, upon a smooth paste, made of three table-spoonfuls of potato flour mixed with a little cold milk ; add a little sugar and six well-beaten eggs. Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, and ornament it prettily with alternate rows of stoned raisins and candied fruits. Pour in the pudding, lay a piece of oiled paper upon it, and cover closely. Place the mould upon a plate turned upside down in a saucepan containing boiling water about three inches in depth, and be very careful that the water does not overflow the top. Keep the water boiling until the pudding is done enough. Turn it carefully upon a hot dish, and send sweet sauce to table in a tureen. If a richer pudding is required, cream may be used instead of milk. Time to steam, an hour and a half. Probable cost, if made with milk. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Flour, Souffl . Rub the rind of half a lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar until the yellow part is taken oft". Put these into a saucepan with half a pint of milk or cream, two ounces of fresh butter, and thiee table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir into the hot milk three ounces of potato flour that has been mixed smoothly with a little cold milk, and continue to stir the cream over the fire until it boils. Add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and, separately, the whites of five wliisked to a firm froth. Peur the preparation into the lining of a soufile dish, round which has been fastened a band of oiled paper, to prevent the souffle overflowing the sides whilst POT (623) POT in the oven. Bake in a well-lieated oven, and Le careful to turn the souffle round two or three times, that it may be equally baked. Serve the moment it comes out of the oven, or it will fall. It should have risen to twice its original height. Time to bake, nearly half an hour. Probable cost, Is., if made with nulk. Sufficient for five or six persons. Potato Fritters. Bake three or four large potatoes. Burst them open, and scoop out the floury part with a spoon. Beat four ounces of this flour well, and mix with it a table-spoonful of thick cream, a table-spoonful of sherry or brandy, two table-spoonfuls of Bugar, a table-spoonful of lemon- juice, a little flavouring, and the well-beaten yolks of three and the whites of two eggs. Beat the batter for several minutes until it is quite smooth. Make the lard or dripping hot in the fryingpan, and drop into it the mixture, a large table-spoonful at a time. Two or three tablespoonfuls can be fried together, but they must be kept apart. When the fritters are nicely browned, drain them upon blotting-paper, serve them piled high on a white napkin, and sift powdered sugar thickly over them; send wine sauce to table with them. Time to fry the fritters, from five to seven minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Potato Fritters (other ways). BoU and peel the potatoes, grate or mash them, add four well-beaten eggs, a little cream, chopped parsley, chives, salt, and spice, and mix the whole well together. Drop a tea-spoonful of this paste into a pan of boHing lard or butter, when it ?vridl swell into a light fritter. Or, take the mealy part of potatoes roasted under the ashes ; beat it in a mortar with a little fine salt, a spoonful of brandy, some fresh butter and cream. Mix the whole, adding gradually a well-beaten egg ; shape the paste into small balls, which roll in flour, fry, and serve, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Potato Gipsy Pie. Peel and slice thinly as many potatoes as will fill a moderatesized pie-dish. Put them into it in layers, and ever each layer sprinkle a little salt and pepper, and a very small portion of finely-minced onion. Pour half a cupful of water over the whole, and place little pieces of butter here and there on the top ; cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. When the pie is done enough, pour a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup into it, through the hole in the top, before serving it. Time to bake, according to the size of the pie. Probable cost, potatoes. Id. to 2d. per pound. Potato, History of the, The introduction of the potato as an article of diet forms a, very interesting chapter in the history of the human race. It was brought into England by the colonists who were, in 1584, sent out by Queen Elizabeth, to " discover and plant new countries not possessed by Christians." Thomas Heriot, the mathematician, was one sf these adventurers ; he returned with the rest, after an expedition of two years, and it has been supposed that to him we are indebted for the potato. Sir Walter lialeigh, who headed the expedition of discovery to North America, introduced the potato into Iieland on his return from Virginia ; but so little did he understand or care about this valuable root, that having planted and reared the plant on his estate at Youghai, in the county of Cork, and his gardener having gathered the " apples," as the fine fruit brought from abroad by his master was termed, Ealeigh ordered them to be rooted out. The gardener obeyed, and in so doing found a large quantity of tubers, which saved, the plants from destruction. It appears that the potato was brought into Southern Europe by a different channel, and at an earlier date than the introduction of the root from Virginia into this country. Clusius received it during his residence at Vienna, in 1596, from the Governor of Mons, in Hainault, who had procm-ed it in the preceding year from Italy, under the name of Taratouffi. For some time after its introduction into this country the potato was planted in the gardens of the nobility as a curious exotic ; in the reign of James I. it was considered a delicacy, being provided in small quantities for the queen's household, and at the price of 2s. per pound. It remained extremely scarce through the succeeding reign and during the Commonwealth, and not until nearly a hundred years after the discovery of Virginia by Kaleigh was its cultivation gradually spread. A letter from Mr. Buckland, a Somersetshii'e gentleman, to the Royal Society, in 1663, drew attention to its value as a preservative in case of famine ; the consequence was that the Society did its best to encourage potato cultivation. But though their utility as articles of food was beginning to bo recognised, potatoes bore no vevy high character. Books upon gardening published about the end of the seventeenth century, a hundred years after their introduction, speak rather slightingly of them. One author says, "They are much used in Ireland and America as bread, and may be propagated with advantage by poor people." " I do not hear that it hath been yet essayed," remarks another, " whether they may not be propagated in great quantities, for food for swine or other cattle." Even the famous Eveljii regarded them with no favour. " Plant potatoes," he says, writing in 1699, "in your worst ground. Take them up in November for winter spending; there wiU enough remain for a stock, though ever so exactly gathered." In The Complete Gardener published in 1719, the well-known nurserjTnen, Loudon and Wise, completely ignore the potato ; and in another work of the same period it is mentioned as inferior to radishes. Gradually, however, the excellent qualities of the potato became recognised, and the use of the tuber spread. But it was not tUl the middle of the eighteenth century that potatoes were generally known over the country. Since that time they have been extensively cultivated. Fifty years later no fewer than 1,700 acres were planted with potatoes in Essex alone for the use of the London market. In Scotland the cultivation of potatoes in gardens was very little understood tiU. about 1740 ; as a plant for field grovrth they received POT (624 ) POT no attention till twenty years after that period. About the same time the potato was introduced into Saxony and some parts of Germany ; and in the latter part of the century it made its way into France. There it owed much to the exertions of Parmentier. In some German districts, Government took an interest in the plant, and aided its culture by compulsory enactments. The culture of the potato in the rest of Eiu-ope appears to have attained to no great extent until during the last century. It was introduced fi'om England into the Netherlands, and thence into Germany ; but it was still unknown to the agricidturists of Saxony in 1740, subsequent to wliich period its culture increased so rapidly, that in thirty years after the above date, a small detachment of the French army, while in that country, having its supjjlies wholl}' cut off, the soldiers subsisted for eight or ten days entirely on potatoes obtained from the fields; nor did they consider this a hardship. The potato was introduced into Sweden in 1720, but the exertions of Linnaeus in favour of its culture were little regarded, and it did not come into general cultivation until 1764, when a royal edict was published for the encom-agement of this branch of husbandry. In Switzerland the value of the root was discovered about the same period at which it was introduced into Sweden ; and in a few years the inhabitants not only grew potatoes among their mountains in abundance, but had likewise learned the art of drj-ing them, grinding them into flour, and making them into bread. A traveller in 1730 relates that the miller of Untersen had scarcely anything to grind but potatoes ; and in 1734 a peasant was so well aware of the profit arising from this culture, that he bought a small field situated near the Swiss mountains, and in only two years after paid the pmx'hase-money by the produce of his potato-crops. In 1846 and 1847 terrible famine resulted in Ireland and elsewhere through the failure of the potato-crop. The potato disease was first noticed in Germany, and assumed a serious character at Liege in 1842. Two years later it invaded Canada, and at once proved very destructive there. In 1845 it was observed in the British Isles, and during that year its ravages were very considerable. They reached their height in 1846, when the Irish famine was the consequence. Since 1847 the potato-disease has gradually diminished, but it still breaks out in particular localities. Its cause and origin have never been satisfactorily explained. Potato Klosse (a Gei-man dish). Scoop the floury part from five or six baked potatoes, until six ounces of potato flour have been obtained. Mix with this two ounces of butter beaten to a cream, a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and form it into small balls. Drop these in boiling salt and water, and be careful to do this with a metal spoon, and to dip it into boiling water each time it is used. Serve the klosse with soup. Or, take the same weight of potato flour. Beat it until smooth with two ounces of butter which has been beaten to a cream, and add two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, one ounce of grated pai-mesan, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, the yolks of two and the white of one egg. Mould the klosse, and boil them as above. Serve on a hot dish, with fried bread-crumbs sprinkled over them. Time to boil the klosse, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. for this quantity. Sufiicient for five or si.x persons. Potato Klosse, Sweet (aGci-mandish). Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add to this a pinch of salt, five or six large lumps of sugar which have been well rubbed upon the rind of a fresh lemon and afterwards crushed to powder, the well-beaten yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, two table-spoonfuls of finelygrated bread-crumbs, and as much potato flour, or flour scooped out of freshly-baked potatoes, as wiU make a thick fimi paste. Form this into balls the size of a walnut, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat until they are equally and brightly browned. Drain them on blotting paper, and serve piled high on a white d'oyley, with powdered sugar sifted over them. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Potato Mould. Beat an egg thoroughly, and mix with it a third of a pint of boiling cream or milk, a table-spoonful of sugar, a little grated lemon-rind, and as much cold boiled potato beaten till smooth or grated as will form a stiff thick batter. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a weUhcated oven. When it is nicely browned, turn it out, and serve very hot. Time to bake, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Muffins. Scooi the inside from four large freshly-baked potatoes. Beat this flour until it is quite smooth, and add to it a pinch of salt, two ounces of clarified butter, and as much warm water as wiU make a thin batter. Beat three eggs, and add them to the mixture, together with three pints of best flour. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of soda in a pint of lukewarm water, knead this with a cupful of fresh yeast into the dough, and let it rise all night. The next morning bake the muffins in rings upon a griddle, and when one side is lightly bro\vned, turn them upon the other. TVlien to be eaten, tear the muffin a little round the edge, toast it on both sides, divide, butter, and afterwards quarter it. Time to bake the muffins, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Potato, Nutritive Properties of the, In two parts of potato there are : Water _ 75-2 Albumenoid Matters . . . 1'4 Starch 15-5 Sugar ...... 3"2 Dextrine ..... 0-4 Fat 0-2 Woody Fibre .... 3-2 Mineral Matter .... 0-9 or Water 75-2 Flesh and Force-producers . . 1*4 Force-producers .... 22-5' Mineral Matter .... 0-9 POT ( 6-2 ) POT To retain the highest amount of nourishment in potatoes ' they should te di-essed with their skins on, as we have said elsewhere. If they are at all dry or shi-ivelled they may advantageously be left to soak for thi-ee or four hours in cold water before being cooked. Potatoes dressed in their jackets have been found to be nearly twice as rich in potassa salts as those which have first been peeled. "As an addition to other and more nutritive food, the potato is most valuable ; as the sole article of diet, although capable of supporting life, it is a wretched material, and any combination of circumstances which induces or compels a population to depend upon it in too great a degree must be regarded as most unfortunate. "The potato undoubtedly contains the elements of nutrition that is starch and gummy matters capable of sustaining the respiratory processes, and also ' plastic material ' adapted to build up the muscular and other constituents of living animal bodies, but those plastic materials are so deficient in quantity, their amount is so small compared with that of the other constituents of the tuber, which, moreover, contains a largo amount of water, that a man living solely upon potatoes must consume a very large quantity to keep himself in health and strength, even if ho can do the latter, when undergoing anything like exertion. From seven to eight pounds per day is by no means an unusual amount for a labouring Irishman to consume ; but the ten pounds of the root contain no more real nutriment than one pound and a half of good wheaten bread, although they afford abundant respiratory or carbon material. In consequence of the less amount of muscular ' plastic ' nutriment contained in his food, the Irish labourer is less adapted for continued exertion than tlie Englishman on his wheat and meat, or the Scotchman on his oatmeal. Moreover, it has been remarked that the constitution of the Irish labourer is apt to give way earlier in life than that of the men of the sister kingdoms, and he is certainly more liable to be the victim of epidemic diseases. "A remark of Liebig's well illustrates the value of the potato as an article of nutriment ; he sa3-s, ' a horse fed on potatoes and compelled to work loses weight ; when he does no work, his weight remains unchanged,' thus evidently showing that the root is unable to supply the loss by ' motor change,' when active muscular exertion is undergone." Br. Spencer Thomson. Potato Omelet. Take a large freshlybaked potato, break it open, and scoop out the inside with a spoon. Beat this till smooth, and mix with it a little pepper and salt, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and the yolks of four eggs. A minute or two before the omelet is to be jfried, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Fry in the usual way, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. Time to fry, five or six minutes. . Probable cost, od. or 6d. Sufficient for two persons. Potato Omelet (another way). See Omelet, Potato. Potato Pasty, Modern. In order to make this properly, a pasty -pan must be procured which has a well-fitting peiforated plate, and a valve-pii e to screw on. This can be had of almost any ironmonger, and will cost from 4s. to 5s. The meat, seasoning, and gravj' are put into the lower part. The plate is then laid on the meat, the valve-pipe screwed on, and mashed potatoes spread equally on the top. The pasty should be baked in a moderate oven and sent to table in the same tin in which it POTATO PASTY PAN. was baked, wliich should have a neatly-folded napkin pinned roimd it. The cover should not be removed until the meat is to be served, and an empty dish should be placed in readiness for it. If properly baked, the potatoes will be nicely browned, and will be flavoured like the meat. The contents of this pie may of coui-se be varied indefinitely. ISIutton or veal cutlets, pork chops, chickens or rabbits cut into neat joints, and fish of various kinds may all be used, and will all be found excellent. The meat should be neatly trimmed, and nicely seasoned, and a small quantity of gravy poui-ed over it. The mashed potatoes should form a crust at least three inches thick. Two pounds of meat and thi-ee pounds of potatoes will make a moderatesized pasty. Probable cost, 4 s. Sufficient for four persons. Potato Patties. Take as many large well-shaped potatoes as it is intended there should be patties, wash them well, and bake them. Take them out before they are quite done enough, so that the skin may not be injured, and carefully cut oft' the top, and scoop out the inside with a spoon. Mix with the floury part two or three spoonfuls of thick cream, a little piece of butter, and a pinch of salt, together with sugar, lemon or cinnamon flavouring, and the yolks and whites of two or three eggs beaten and added separately. Put this mixture into the hollow potatoes, place them upright side by side in a buttered dish, and bake them in a hot oven. If liked, savoury instead of sweet potato patties can be made by mixing with the potato flour a little pounded veal and ham, and cream, salt, pepper, lemon-peel, grated nutmeg, and mushroom ketchup added in suitable proportions. Time to bake, twelve to fifteen minutes. Potato Pie. It is a good plan to have made a tin lid perforated with holes, and with a handle at each end, to fit an ordinary-sized pie-dish, on purpose for potato pies. This lid should fit down at least an inch below the level of the dish, and before using it the first time it should be washed in boiling soda and water. POT ( 626 ) POT as new tin is sometimes poisonous. Having obtained this lid, cut the cold meat into neat slices, sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, two finely-minced onions, hal? a cupful of gravy or failing this, water and two or thi-ee lumps of butter or good beef di'ipping. Tut on the tin hd, and pile upon it as many cold boiled potatoes mashed v?ith milk as will fiU the space to the top of the dish. Bake in a wellheated oven. Send the pie to table in the dish in which it was baked, with a hot napkin pinned round. The top should be brightly browned. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Pie (another way). Take half a dozen boiled potatoes, dry and floury, mash them smoothly with three ounces of butter, the beaten yolk of an egg, and a little pepper and salt. Cut a pound of cold roast beef into neat slices free from skin and gristle. If the meat is rather underdi-essed, so much the better. Spread a layer of the potato at the bottom of a pie-dish, put the slices of meat upon it, season with pepper and salt, and pour over the meat a tea-cupful of gravy made by stewing the bones and trimmings, and a tablespoonful of mushi-oom ketchup. Cover with potato, and ornament the top of the pie with a fork. Bake in a moderate oven, and serve very hot. Time to bake the pie, half an horn-. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Potato Pie (another way). Butter a shallow" pie-dish rather thickly. Line the edges with a good crust, and then fiU the pie with mashed potatoes seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them some marrow, together with small lumps of butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the pie. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Pie (another way). Peel and slice some potatoes thin, and put them into a pie-dish. Between each layer of potatoes place some sliced onion to every pound of potatoes allow say thi-ee-quarters of an ounce of onion ? add pepper and salt, put in a little water, and cut about two ounces of dripping or suet into little bits ; lay these on the top, cover the pie close with common paste, and let it bake for about an hour and a half. The taste of the pie will be improved by the addition of a few slices of bacon. Time, about one hour and a haK to bake. Potato Pie, " Ten to One." This pie is a great favourite in country places in the North of England. Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with good crust. Fill it either watli "beef steak or slices of mutton nicely seasoned, and slices of raw potato the third of an inch thick, and allow eight or ten slices of potato to one piece of meat. Pour a little gravy or water over the whole, cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve very hot. The pie must be gently baked, or the pastry will he burnt before the potatoes are sufficiently cooked. Time to bake, one hour and a haK or more, according to the size of the pie. PotatoPie,with Sausage-meat. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good crust, and butter the inside rather tliickly. Mash five or six mealy potatoes with a little pepper and salt, a well-beaten egg, and as much milk as will make a thick batter. Mix with this an equal quantity of nicely-seasoned sausage-meat, and fill the pie with the mixture. Cover with a good crust, and bake in a well-heated oven. Send good brown gravy to table with the pie. Time to bake, about thiee-quartors of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. for a moderate-sized pie. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Pot. Take an earthen jar with a closely-fitting lid, put into it beef or mutton, cut into convenient-sized pieces, tiU it is a quarter fuU. Season with salt and pepper. Cut one or two onions into thin slices the number being regulated by taste. Lay these over the meat, and fiU the dish with peeled jiotatoes of uniform size. Sprinkle a little salt and flour over these, pour in a cupful of water or, better still, stock, put the lid on the jar, and bake in a moderate oven. "When the potatoes are done enough, lift them carefully out with a spoon so as not to break them. Place them round a dish, put the meat into the centre, pour the gravy over all, and serve very hot. Underdressed cold meat may be used for the dish, though, of course, fresh meat will be nicer. Time, according to the size and quality of the potatoes. If more convenient, the jar can be closely covered, set in a saucepan of water, and stewed for about an hour after the water reaches the point of boiling. Plenty of time should be allowed, as the potatoes are better baked slowly. Probable cost of potatoes. Id. or Igd. per pound. Sufficient, a pie with two pounds of potatoes for three or four persons. Potato Pudding. Mash a pound of boiled potatoes, dry and floury, and make a batter by mixing with them an ounce of clarified butter, three well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of milk, together with a little salt and pepper. Butter a baking-dish rather thickly, pour half the batter into it, and lay upon this three-quarters of a pound of underdressed beef or mutton, cut into neat slices, and quite free from fat, skin, and gristle. Pour the rest of the batter over the meat, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Serve very hot, and send good brown sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Potato Pudding (another way). Take a quarter of a pound of freshly-boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Beat them till quite smooth, then mix with them half a pound of butter melted, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and a quarter of a pound of picked and dried currants. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add six well-beaten eggs and a glass of wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish or mould, and either bake or boil it. The baked pudding is the better of the two. Time, half an hour or more. POT (627) POT Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for foui- or five persons. Potato Pudding (another way). Mash thi-ee pounds of boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Mix with them foui- ounces of tincly-shrcd beef suet, four ounces of grated cheese, the flesh of a herring torn into flakes with two forks, and a quarter of a pint of milk. Pom- the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven for half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Potato Pudding (another way). Take a few potatoes, boil them well, and mash them fine with a little milk ; then sweeten to taste, and press into a pie-dish. Beat one egg, and lay it on the top of the pudding with a little grated nutmeg. Bake for half an hour. Potato Pudding, Baked. Mix twelve ounces of potatoes boiled, skimmed, and mashed, one ounce of suet, a quarter of a pint of milk, and one ounce of cheese grated fine; add as much boiUng water as will be necessary to produce a due consistence, and bake in an earthen pan. Potato Pudding, Cottage {see Cottage Potato Pudding). Potato Pudding, Sweet. Bake half a dozen large potatoes, and when they are done enough break them open and scoop out the contents with a spoon. Beat them lightly, and with a quarter of a pound of the potato flour put three ounces of clarified butter, half a teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, a dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, a pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream. Beat the pudding for five or six minutes, then add separately the yolks and well-whisked whites of three eggs. Butter a plain mould, ornament it with dried fruit or slices of candied peel, pour in the pudding, and bake in a well-heated even, or steam the pudding if preferred. Turn it out before serving, sift sugar thickly over it, and garnish the dish with jam. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour ; to steam, one hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Potato Pudding, with Ham, &c. (a German recipe). Take some largo potatoes, roast them, break them and scoop out the inside ; to two quarts of potato add six ounces of butter and the yolks of four eggs ; work through a sieve, season with pepper and salt. Butter well a mould and sprinkle it with bread crumbs or raspings; fill it about two inches deep with potato puree ; then put a thin layer of ham, dressed veal, or anything else preferred, which cover with potato ; then put a layer of meat again, and so on till the mould is filled. Bake the pudding for an hour, loosen the sides carefully with a knife, and turn out carefully that it may not break. Potato Puddings (Count Eumford's Kecipes). 1. Mix together twelve ounces of boiled mashed potatoes, one ounce of suet, one ounce (a sixteenth of a pint) of milk, and one ounce of cheese. The suet and cheese to be melted, or chopped as fine as possible. Add as much hot water as will convert the whole into I a tolerably stiff mass ; then bake it for a short I time in an earthen dish, either in front of the j fire or in an oven. 2. Twelve ounces of mashed 1 potatoes, one ounce of milk, and one ounce { of suet, with salt. Mix and bake as before. j 3. Twelve ounces of mashed potatoes, one ounce I of red herring chopped fine or bruised in a I mortar. Mix and bake. 4. Twelve ounces of I mashed potatoes, one ounce of suet, and one ounce of hung beef grated or cho jped fine. Mix and bake. Potato Puffs. Put three table-spoonfuls of new milk into a clean saucepan with a couple of ounces of fresh butter, the thin finely -minced rind of a small lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Let the milk heat very gently until the butter is dissolved. Add gradually three ounces of boiled potatoes, dry and floury, and beat the mixture until it is light and perfectly free from lumps. Stir in the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and just before the puffs are to be baked the whites whisked to affirm froth. Butter some small patty-j ans. Put the mixture into them, and bake in a well-heated oven. Sift powdered sugar thickly over them, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen puffs. Potato Puffs (another way) Bake two large potatoes. When done enough, burst them open and scoop out the contents with a spoon. Beat them until quite smooth, and mix with them two ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, half an ounce of butter, and a wellbeaten egg. Divide the mixture into small cakes, fry them in hot fat till they are nicely browned, drain them on blotting paper, and serve very hot. Send white sauce to table with them. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. Potato, Pviree of. Peel and wash a pound of good regents. Boil and di-ain them, and beat them up with a fork. Stir in with them a quarter of a pint of good broth or thick cream, and pass them through a wire sieve. Put the juice into a saucepan with two ounces of butter and a little pepper, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is quite hot. Pour it into the centre of a hot dish, and arrange delicatelybroiled cutlets mutton, pork, or lamb in a circle round it. Time, five or six minutes to heat the puree. Probable cost, 8d. if mixed with cream. Sufficient for a small dish. Potato Puree (another way). Take some potatoes well boiled and well di-ained, pound them in a mortar, moisten with good broth and salt, then rub them through a sieve; when done, put the pm-ee to warm in a stewpan, and add two ounces of fresh butter. Puree must bo thinner than mash. Put fried bread round the puree. Sometimes cream may be used instead of broth; but it is not so wholesome, besides being much dearer. Potato Ribbons. Wash and peel half a dozen large kidney potatoes, and let them lie in cold water for a few minutes. Cut them into ribbons, round and round, like an apple, and POT (628) POT keep the strips as nearly as possible of one width. They must not be too thin or they will break. Fry them in plenty of hot fat until they are lightly browned. Drain them on a wire sieve, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them. Serve on a hot dish. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. Probable cost of potatoes, Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Potato Riee. Boil two pounds of potatoes regents are best for the pxirpose mash them with two ounces of butter and four tablespoonfuls of boiling milk, and season with pepper and salt. Put them into a large colander, and press them tlirough this on to a hot dish, and whilst doing so, shake the colander every minute or so, that the potatoes may fall lightly like rice. Serve very hot, with broiled steak or sausages. Time, about three-quarters of an horn*. Probable cost of potatoes, Id. or l d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potato Rissoles. Take two pounds of mashed potatoes, and mix with them two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley. Make them up into balls the size of a small apple, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are equally and brightly browned. Drain them on blotting paper, and serve them piled high on a white d'oyley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost of potatoes. Id. or lid. per pound. Sufficient for foiu' or five persons. Potato Rolls. Take four large boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Mash them till they are smooth, and while they are still hot, mix with them a little salt, a table-spoonful of clarified butter, and half a pint of hot milk. When the mixture is lukewarm, add half a teacupful of yeast, and as much flour as will make a fii-m dough. Knead it well, cover with a cloth, and set it near the fire to rise. When it is sufficiently light, mould it into rolls, place these a little apart from each other on buttered tins, let them rise again for about ten minutes, and bake in a well-heated oven till they are finn, but they must not be too hard. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient, allow one for each person. Potato Salad. Potato salad may be made all the year round %vith both new and old potatoes, and when plainly boiled is an agreeable accomi animent to cold meat. Cold potatoes that are left may be served up in this way, and will form an appetising dish. If the potatoes are boiled on purpose for the salad, small ones should be picked out, as they often prove wasteful when boiled with large ones. They should be boiled in their jackets, and should be peeled and sliced whilst warm. Make the salad two or three hours before it is wanted. Cut the potatoes into slices the third of an inch thick. Put these in layers into the salad bowl, and sprinkle over each layer a little pepper and salt, linely-chopped parsley, and, if liked, minced chives or shallot. Add oil and vinegar in the ])roportion of two table-spoonfuls of vinegar to three of oil, and stir thei-a well into the salad. Garnish with sliced beet-root, pickled gherkins, olives, or herbs, or boil an egg hard, mince the yolk and the white separately, and place them in little heaps round the salad. A chopped bloater or two or three sardines finely minced may be stirred in with a potato salad as an occasional change, and tarragon vinegar may be substituted for plain vinegar. Potato Salad (a French recipe). The following is a good formula for the simple but delicious potato salad of a Parisian hotel : Cut ten or twelve cold boiled potatoes into slices from a quarter of an inch to half an inch thick ; put these into a salad bowl with four tablespoonfuls of tarragon or plain vinegar, six table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. Stir well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed. Potato salad should be made two or three hours before it is required for the table. Anchovies, olives, or any jDickles may be added to it, and also bits of cold beef, chicken, or tm-key, if desired. It is excellent, however, without these. Potato Salad (a German recipe). Cut the potatoes into slices the third of an inch thick, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt amongst them. Cut two or three rashers of bacon into very small pieces, and fry these over a gentle fire until they arc lightly bro med. Pour into the pan with them haK a cupful of water and half a cupful of vinegar, let the bacon simmer in tlus for a minute, and pour the sauce over the potatoes. If after soaking a little time the salad looks dry, add half a cupful of milk. Time, five or six minutes to make the salad dressing. Probable cost of potatoes. Id. to lid. per pound. Potato Sandwiches. Cut a pound of cold roast beef into slices, and fry these gently in hot fat for two or three minutes. Take them up, drain them, and spread over them on both sides a layer of mashed potatoes a quarter of an inch thick. Dip them into egg and breadcrumb, and fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Serve piled on a white napkin. Time to fry the sandwiches, five or six minutes. Potato Snow. Choose fine white potatoes free from spots. Wash them well, put them in theu' jackets into a saucepan, and barely cover them with cold water. Let them boil gently until they begin to crack, then pour the water from them, let them drain, and then dry by the side of the fire until they fall to pieces. Take away the skins, and lay the hot dish on which the potatoes are to be served before the fire. Rub the potatoes through a hot wire sieve, so that they shall fall lightly upon the dish, and on no account disturb them after they have fallen. Serve very hot. Time, thirty to forty minutes to boil the potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or 1-kl. per pound. Sufficient, three potatoes for one person. Potato Souffle. Bake six or eight large potatoes, and when they are done enough burst the skins, and scoop out the floury part with a spoon. Take a quarter of a pound of tliis flour and mix with it two table-spoonfuls of finelysifted sugar, an ounce of butter, half a pint of boiling cream pleasantly flavoured with lemon POT ( 629 ) POT rind or cinnamon. Beat the mixture until it is quite smooth, then add the well-beaten yolks of foul- eggs, and, separately, the whites of six eggs whisked to a firm froth. Pour the souffle into a buttered souffle tin, round the top of which has been secured a broad band of oiled paper to prevent the souffle overflowing its sides, and bake in a well-heated oven. tServe the souffle the moment it is taken from the oven. If a proper souffle tin is not at hand, a deep pie-dish may be substituted for it. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Potato Soup. AVash a dozen or more large potatoes (regents are to be preferred), in lukewarm water, and scrub them until quite clean with a soft brush. Drain them, and nut them into a saucepan, barely cold water, and let them sin they are done enough. Poi and let them dry. Dissolve half of butter in a saucepan it two moderate-sized onioi and a tea-spoonful of choppt the onions steam gently until potatoes, and rub them th until quite smooth. Put tl with the onions, &e., and stir Add a bay-leaf to the mixtu much boiling water as will m and afterwards add as mut wiU make the soup of the C( cream. Let it boil, put in taste, and also a little grated with toasted sippets in the will be better if white sto( of water. Time, one hour. per quart. Sufficient for foi Potato Soup (another peel ten or twelve large pc into slices, and put them in four large onions sliced, fou: and a little pepper, salt, ai Let them steam for two or 1 pour over them two quarts the liquid in which meat h let the whole simmer gently are soft. Press them wit! through a fine sieve, retur soup, and stir it over the f hot. Add half a pint of c and serve ; sending fried c separate dish. Time, an ho bable cost, 5d. per quart, ex if made with milk. Suffici( persons. Potato Soup (anothei peel a dozen large potatoes a stewpan with two quarts o meat has been boiled, three rot. Let all boil gently tog until the potatoes are quit whole through a fine sie'v back into the stewpan. M fuls of flour to a sraootl pint of cold water. IMix ; liquid with this, and afters into the soup, and stir ni with the potatoes. Add required, boil a few minn very hot. Half a pint of added or not. Send fried crusts to table on a separate dish. Time to boil the soup with th" flour, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Potato Soup (another way). Wash and peel a dozen large sound potatoes. Cut them into thin sHces, dredge them well with flour, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a handful of parsley, two largo onions, and a little pepper and salt. Barely cover them with cold water, and let them steam gently until soft. Press them through a sieve, and mix with the puree two quarts of nicelyflavoured stock. Boil a few minutes longer, and serve. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Potato Soup (another way). Take two pounds of freshly -boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Beat them till quite smooth, and pour over them a quart of boiling stock nicely flavoured. Pass the whole through a sieve, afterwards boil it for six or eight minutes, and serve very hot. Send fried crusts to table with the soup. Time, three quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, 4d. Suf pan with one large onion and one head of celery also sliced up. Add four ounc of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Set the pan on a slow fire, let the contents simmer, stirring occasionally, ti.U they are nearly reduced to a sort of puree. Add thi-ee pints of good white consomme, then let the potatoes boil gently by the side of a moderate fire for half an hour, pass them through the tammy, and after having removed the puree into a soup-pot, add, if required, a little more consomme, and set the puree on the fire to boil gently by the side of the stove, in order to clarify it in the usual way required for other purees of vegetables. Just before serving add a pint of boiling cream, a pat of fresh butter, and a little pounded sugar. Potato Starch. Potato starch is useful for thickening white sauces and preparing iwtages ail gras. For these purposes it should bo beaten up with a small quantity of the liquid and added to the sauce, taking care to stir it continually until mixed. Potato Starch, Adulteration bymeans of. The starch of the potato is often used for the adulteration of the higher-priced starches, or sago, tajuoca, and arrowi-oot. It is also added to cocoa, honey, butter, lard, and many other articles. Potato Stuflang for Geese [sec Stuffing, Potato). POT POT Potato Stufang, for Goose and Sucking Pig. Wash and peel three or four large sound potatoes, and cut them into very small pieces. Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of finelyshred parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and, if liked, a finely-minced onion. Cover closely, and let them steam over a gentle fire until they are three parts cooked; they must not be so soft that they wiU fall to pieces. Shake the saucepan now and then to keep them from burning to the bottom. Mince the liver of the pig or goose, and put it with the potatoes. Stir the mixture over the fire for a minute or two, and it will be ready for use. If liked, one or two cold fried sausages may be freed from skin, cut up small, and used instead of the liver. Time to steam the potatoes, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one small pig. Potato Stuflang for Sucking Pig {see Pig, Sucking, Potato Stuffing for). Potato, Sweet. After the introduction of the potato into this countrj' it used to bo confounded with this plant, which it resembled and from which it received its name. The sweet potato was originally a Malayan plant, and was brought into England long before the introduction of the potato. It was considered a great delicacy, and was made into a confection. It is still cultivated to a certain extent in Spain and the South of France. Shakespeare alludes to tbe sweet potato in his Merry Jf'ives of Windsor " Let the sky rain potatoes and hail kissing-comfits." Besides being used in Spain and France, the sweet potato is largely eaten in tropical America. It may be employed as food by way of a substitute for the potato. Potato Turnovers. Mince finely the remains of cold roast meat beef, mutton, veal, or ham. Take away the pieces of skin and gTistle, season the mince highly with salt and cayenne, and add a small proportion of chopped pickles. Mash some cold boiled potatoes, and make them into a paste with a little flour and one or two beaten eggs. Dredge a little flour over this, and roll it out. Cut it into rounds the size of a saucer. Put a little of the mince upon one half of one of these rounds, and fold the other half over it like a turnover. Pinch the edges neatly, and make up the rest of the pastry in the same way. Fry the turnovers in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, and serve very hot. Time to fry-, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Potato, "WTiolesomeness of the. The potato forms an excellent article of diet, as it contains a large quantity of farinaceous nutriment. When well boiled it is generally' easy of digestion. " There are, however," says a medical authority, " certain states of the stomach when potatoes are hurtful, as where there is a tendency to flatulency and feeling of fullness after meals ; and also in persons who are just recovering from severe iUness, or in cases of bowel complaint, as they are apt to increase the irritation in the intestinal canal." I Such potatoes as beil '-waxy" are far from j wholesome. The same may be said of early potatoes, by which is meant those which are in an immature condition. Mashed potatoes labour under the disadvantage that they do not get sufficiently mixed with the saliva to secure their full digestion. When soaked with gravy and dripping from roasted meat potatoes should be avoided by dyspeptics, though they may agree well enough with those of strong digestive powers. The use of potatoes is a preventative against scurvy, if not an actual cure for it. Potatoes that have been exposed to the air and have become green are not wholesome, and new potatoes, i.e., unripe ones, are greatly answerable for the ijrevalence of cholera and such like diseases during the summer months. Potato Wine. Wine of considerable quality may be made from frosted potatoes, if not so" much frosted as to have become soft and waterish. The potatoes must be crushed or bruised ; a wooden mallet answers the purpose. If a plank of wood is made hollow, inthe manner of a shallow bowl, they may be bruised with a mallet or put into a cider-press. A Winchester bushel must have ten gallons of water, prepared by boiling it mixed with half a pound of hops and half a pound of common white ginger. This water, after having boiled for about half an hour, must be poured upon the bruised potatoes, into a tub or vessel suited to the quantity to bo made. After standing in this mixid state for three days, yeast must be added to fenr ent the liquor. When the fermentation has subsided, the liquor must be drawn olf as pure as possible into a cask, adding half a pound of raw sugar for every gallon. After it has remained in the cask for three months it will be ready for use. Farmer s Magazine. Potato Yeast. Boil some good mealypotatoes until they are quite soft. Peel and weigh them, and while they are hot mash them till thejr are smooth. IMix them quickly with as much boilin g water as will make the mash of the consistency of good beer yeast. Rub the puree throuj h a sieve, and add for every poimd of potatoes either two ounces of treacle or an ounce of brown sugar or honey. Boil the mixture untid it is as thick as batter, and stir into it whilst it is warm two large spoonfuls of yeast for every pound of potatoes. Cover with a cloth, and keep in a warm place till it has done fermenting. In twenty-four hours it will be read}- for use. It will be necessary- to use twice as much of this yeast as of beer yeast to make breacl. S id of potatoes will make a quart ? Potatoes (a la ?ome potatoes of a firm kind in tl Take a small, sharp, thin-bl'ided hem into thin slices. Put a pint stewpan with a tea-spoonfi il of e of butter, a little pepper, sali utmeg, and a table-spoonfnl of Pour a quarter of a pint ci cr( :op, cover the saucepan closely, .'cr the fire for eight or ten mini ; potatoes on a hot dish, a.nd bp )t to break the POT (631 ) POT slices. Cold potatoes which are left from dinner may, if firm, be dressed in this way for breakfast. If cream is not at hand, nulk slightly thickened with flour and butter may be substituted for it. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potatoes (a la Duchesse). This, it has been said, is " the acme of delicacy in the cooking of potatoes." " Take five middle-sized cold boiled potatoes, grate and mix them with five dessertspoonfuls of flour and a halfpenny worth of milk, adding to the mixture two eggs well beaten up; prepare a pan full of boiling fat, and drop spoonfuls of the paste into the fat, taking them out the instant they have acquired a delicate golden-brown colour. With moflovfifp care, potatoes thus cooked are d( Potatoes (a la Maitre d'B steam a dozen kidnej' potatoes ii and cut them into slices a qua thick. Put them into a saucep tlu'ce spoonfuls of white sauc table-spoonfuls of chopped pars of butter, and a little pepper a the saucepan over the fire unti' covered with the sauce and squeeze over them the juice lemon, and serve. Time, ten the sliced potatoes. Probabl ficient for four or five persons Potatoes (a la Maitre d way. Wash the potatoes, a their jackets in salt and wa are done, let them cool, then shape of largo corks, and cu about as thick as a shillingtoo thin they will break in ? a butter sauce, mix with i parsley, pepper, salt, a litt' juice of a lemon if acid is rec that the sauce is neither cure and that it is well mixed b are put into it. Potatoes and. Eggs (-? toes). Potatoes au Lard (a Cut some bacon into small stewpan with a bit of butter "\Mien the bacon is thi-ee ; in a little flour, add salt, ; bunch of sweet herbs, and a with some stock. When the; boiled a few mimites, put in done, peeled,' and cut into pii and serve. Potatoes, Baked, CI of uniform size. Wash tl warm water, and scrub the bnish. Put them in the o-v oven, and bake until don? let them remain in the o' cooked, or they -wall become 1 Serve, neatly folded, on ? send pats of butter to table cooks cut a little slice from t after it is baked. Mix with minced shallot, a little pep quarter of an oimce of but' lid, and serve hot. Time t of a good size. Probable cost of potatoes, Id. and 1 Jd. per pound. Sufficient, allow two for each person. Potatoes, Beef Steak and Fried, {see Beef Steak and Fried Potatoes). Potatoes, Beef-steaks with (French fashion). Take some thin sUces of rump of beef, flatten them, and season with a little salt, pepper, &c. Dip these slices into a little butter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. Have some parsley chopped very fine and mixed with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When the beef-steaks are done, put the above ingredients under the steaks, and all around fried potatoes of a fine brown colour. Glaze ?' e beef-steaks; you may serve them with dif rent sauces, as mushroom, oyster, and sauce che. Potatoes, Beignets of. Take some itatoes ; roast them, take off their jackets and )uiid them with a little salt, cream, a little itter, and a glass of brandy. A whole egg lould be added whilst pounding till the paste so thick as to be easily formed into balls. et the ]mste cool. When the balls have been ade shake flour over them, fry them in butter, id serve with sugar sifted over them. Potatoes, Boiled. When about to boil otatoes, pick them out as nearly as possible of ae size, or the large ones will be hard when the nail ones are reduced to pulp. If this cannot asily be done, cut them to one size. Wash hem well, remove the specks or eyes, and pare hem as thinly as possible, not only to avoid raste, but because the best part of the potato s near the skin. As they are pared, throw them nto cold water, and let them remain in it until vanted. An iron saucepan is preferable to a in one for cooking them, as it prevents them 3oiling so fast, and the more slowly they are aoiled the better. Put them into a saucepan with barely enough cold water to cover them, and as 50on as the water boils thi-ow in a little more 2old water. This will check the heat,; and keep the potatoes from brealring before they are done through. Thrust a fork into them occasionally ; and as soon as they are soft take them iip, pour off the liquor, and let them stand by the side of the fire with the saucepan partially uncovered tiU the moisture has evaporated and they are quite dry. If they are allowed to remain in the water after they are done enough, they will certainly be spoilt. Serve very hot. "\\Tien. potatoes are done before they are wanted, they should be drained and left in the saucepan by the side of the fire, and instead of the lid a folded cloth should be laid over them. This will absorb the moisture and keep them hot and in good condition for some time. In order to make boiled potatoes look floury, boil and drain them as above, and whilst they are drying by the side of the fire shake the saucepan vigorously every minute or two. This will give them a verj- good appearance, but it is rather wasteful, as a good portion of the potato sticks to the side of the pan. Time, according to the quality of the potato, from haK an hour to an hour and a half. Probable cost. Id. or Ud. per poimd. Sufficient, two or three potatoes for each person. POT (632) POT Potatoes, Boiled (another way). Choose potatoes of uniform size, wash them well, and scrub them with a soft brush, but do not touch them at all with a knife, even to remove the specks. Put them in a saucepan, barely cover them with cold water, throw in a spoonful of salt, and let them simmer gently until they are done enough, then let them boil quickly for two or three minutes. Drain the water from them, leave them in the saucepan by the side of the fire partially covered, and let them remain until they are quite dry, then peel them quickly, and serve at once. Leave the cover of the tureen a little on one side, that the steam may escape and not descend upon the potatoes. Time, half an hour to an hour, according to the quality of the potatoes. Probable cost, Id. or Ud. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen for two or three persons. Potatoes, Boiled (another way). Wash, pare, and boil the potatoes in the usual way. Pour off the water, and instead of drying the potatoes by the side of the fii-e, turn them into a bowl. Put the tureen in which they are to be served before the fire. Take each potato separately, lay it in a warm soft napkin, and twist the cloth round it to dry it, and at the same time shape it neatly. Put each potato as it is done into the vegetable dish, and keep this covered with a hot cloth. Serve as quickly as possible. Potatoes are certainly very good jn-epared in this way, but it is necessary to use despatch in drying them, or they will be cool before they can be served. Time to boil the potatoes, half an liour to an hour, according to the quality. Probable cost. Id. or IM. per pound. Sufficient, two or three for each person. Potatoes, Boiled (another way). Take twenty middle-sized potatoes, peel, wash, and drain them, put them into a two-quart stewpan with one quai-t of water and a little salt. When the J' have boiled fifteen minutes, throw off the water, cover closely, and let them steam till done, which will be in about five minutes more. Potatoes, Boiled (another way). The boiling of potatoes in the best manner, which to some may seem a very simple affair, requires considerable attention, and much of the goodness of the vegetable depends on its' being properl}- cooked. The following directions are given in the Farmer's Magazine, Vol. V., pp. 191 and 503 : " It is of consequence that the potatoes be as nearly as possible of one size ; that they be well washed and cleared of earth or dirt ; that they be put, with cold water, into a pan or kettle, well rinsed about, and kept there for an hour or two, which will extract the black liquor with which they are impregnated. They ought then to be put, with their skins on, not into boiling water like greens, but into fresh cold water, with a little salt, and boiled in a kettle or saucepan, closely covered, in the most rapid manner. No more water should be put in than merely to cover them, as they iDroduce themselves a considerable quantity of fluid. When sufficiently done, the water should be instantly poured off, and the vessel containing the cooked potatoes is to be placed on the side of the fire with the cover off until the steam be completely evaporated; the potatoes are thus rendered quite dry and mealy." Potatoes, Boiled (Irish fashion). In Ireland potatoes are cooked so that they may have, as they call it, a bo)w in them ; that is, that the middle part shall not be quite cooked. They are done thus : Put a gallon of water with two ounces of salt in a large ii'on pot with the potatoes, boil for about ten minutes, or until the skin is loose, pour the water out of the pot, put a dry cloth on the top of the potatoes, and place the pot on the side of the fire, without water, for about twenty minutes, and serve, In Ireland turf is the principal article of fuel, which is burnt on the flat hearth; a little of it is generally scraped up round the pot so as to keep a gradual heat ; by this plan the potato is both boiled and baked. Probable cost, Id. or Ud. per pound. Potatoes, Boiled in their Jackets.-;Potatoes are frequently boiled and served in their jackets, and a small plate is placed bj' the side of each guest to receive the skins. They are certainly nicer boiled in this way than in any other, and also better, for the most nutritious portion of the potato is said to lie quite close to the skin, and it is frequently cut off when the potato is carelessly peeled : at the same time this method is an inconvenient and not very tidy way of serving them. Choose potatoes of uniform size, and scrub them with a soft brush until they are perfectly clean. Put them into a saucepan with a little cold water, not quite sufficient to cover them. Boil them as gently as possible, for the more slowly they are cooked the better they will be. If a little salt is thrown in occasionally, it will be found a gi-eat improvement. If the potatoes are large, add half a cupful of cold water every now and then. In order to ascertain whether or not they are done enough, probe them occasionally with a fork, and when they are tender tliroughout, pour off the water, put the saucepan once more on the fire, and let it remain until the potatoes are quite dry. Send them to table with the skins on. Time to boil the potatoes, from half an hour to an hour, according to size and quality. Allow si.x potatoes for two persons. Probable cost, Id. per pound. Potatoes, Broiled. Take some cold potatoes; cut them lengthwise into slices half an inch thick, dredge a little flour lightly over these, and lay them on a hot gridiron over a clear but not very fierce fire. Turn tkem about that they may be equally coloured on both sides, and serve vqry hot. The slices must not be allowed to get hard, or they will be spoilt. Time, till browned. Allow two or three potatoes for each person. Probable cost, Id. or l d. per pound. Potatoes Browned under a Roasting Joint. Half boil eight or ten large kidney potsitoes. Drain the water from them, flour them well, and lay them in an earthen dish or a tin pan. Put this in the drij ping-pan under the meat, and baste the potatoes liberally from timf) to time. "When they are bro-wned on one side turn them upon the other. Before sending to table, place them on blotting-paper POT ( 633 ) POT er on a sieve, to clear them from fat, and serve very hot. The potatoes may be either put on a separate dish or placed round the joint they are to accompany. Time to boil the potatoes, about a quarter of an hour ; to brown them, one hour or more. Probable cost' of potatoes, Id. or Hd. per pound. Allow two or tlii\u for each person. Potatoes, Casserole of {see Casserole of Potatoes). Potatoes, Choosing of. There are so many sorts and sizes +i potatoes, and tastes differ so much with regard to them, that it is scarcely possible to give a general rule as to choosing them. It is best to buy them with the mould hanging about tl that they are freshly dug should not be removed until be used. YcUow-looking po: and reddish-coloured ones white. Potatoes are more ?when they are of a moder from blemish than when the] Potatoes, Cold, Frie Cut up half a dozen firm slices a quarter of an inch ' into a saucepan with two oun and shake them over the fi lightly browned. Sprinkle ( . pepper and salt, a tablc-spc parsley, a tea-spoonful of fir and the juice of half a sm; spoonful of good brown grav not. Serve very hot. Tim fry the potatoes. Probable c for two or thi-ee persons. Potatoes, Cold, to Il( potatoes are left after beingbe sent to table again in tv They may be mixed with ca into colcannon {see Colcannon made into a salad {see Potat may be warmed with cream o Potatoes a la Creme and vr. they maybe sliced and fried ( Fried in Slices), or they ma fried, as follows : Melt a dripping in a frying-pan, f into this, season with pej p keep stirring them about un hot. Serve immediately, potatoes till they are quite With one pound of the pul spoonfuls of flour, a little pi ounce of butter, and as mi moisten the beat potatoes. plain mould, and bake in a m they are nicely browned. Sc take the remains of mashed ] they come from the table. 1 into a small mould, and lea nest day. Half an hour bcfor turn them out, cut them into . thick, and brown them in a oven. Potatoes en Salade. slice potatoes, and season vinegar, salt, pepper, and fi sliced gherkins, beet -root, or c 42 Potatoes, Fish Soup with (see Fish Soup T ith Potatoes). Potatoes, Forced (a, French recipe). Take two large kidney potatoes, wash and peel them, cut them in half lengthwise ; scoop out the inside carefully with a spoon, leaving the outer part about the thickness of a penny-piece. Take two large roasted potatoes, two shallots chopped fine, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a little piece of fat bacon, a pinch of parsley and chives chopped fine ; pound all with pepper and salt, form into a paste, butter the insides of the potato-shells, and fill them with this paste, in which let the upper part be convex ; butter a baking-tin with fresh butter, put your potatoes on it, and bake them in a moderate oven ; in half an hour, if the upper and under parts are browned, serve. A. Von Kochheim. Potatoes for Pilgrims (a Trappist recipe). Boil six or eight potatoes, and cut them in slices. Make a little frying batter {see Frj-ing Batter), and dip in it half a dozen onions thinly sliced ; fry these in hot fat, and when they are browned, put the potatoes into the pan with them. Pour over them as much milk as will barely cover them. Sprinkle powdered sugar upon them, let them stew gently a short time, and serve very hot. Time to stew, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potatoes Fried. French kidney potatoes are the best for this purpose. Wash and peel some potatoes, and cut them from the breadth (not the length) in slices as thin as a shilling. As they are sliced throw them into cold water, and keep them there until wanted. "WTien they are to be dressed, dry them carefully in a napkin, and throw them a few at a time into as much boiling fat as will cover them entirely. The fat may be known to be boiling when it ceases to hiss, and is still. Mave the potatoes about in the fat that they may be equally cooked, and when they are brightly browned on both sides and crisp, put them on a cloth or on brown paper before the fire to drain the grease from them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve very hot. Fried potatoes are good with steaks or chops, or may be even served by themselves as a breakfast dish. Cold boiled potatoes may be sliced and fried in the same way, but the slices should be cut a quarter of an inch thick. Time to fry, about eight or ten minutes. Probable cost, potatoes Id. to 1 Jd. per pound. Sufficient, allow four or six potatoes for each person. Potatoes, Fried (another way). Cut the potatoes in slices about the thickness of a shilling; then fry them in clarified butter. If you have any goose dripi ing, it will do better. When the potatoes are fried a fine broMTi colour and crisp, drain all the grease on a towel, and serve them quite hot on a napkin, or in a deep dish ; they cannot be dished nicely in any other way. Do not forget to sprinkle them over with a little pounded salt. Potatoes, Fried (another -way). Take a sufficient number of potatoes, and cut them in thin slices. Melt some butter in a frying-pan, POT ( 634 ) POT and put in the slices. Add pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Stir the potatoes now and then till they are of a good colour and crisp, th m send them to table. By way of variety, potatoes may be fried in hatter, a little pepper and salt being shaken over hem when they are frying. Potatoes Pried for Garnish {see Garnish, Potatoes Fried for). Potatoes, Pried, Garnish of. Cut the potatoes into any fanciful shapes, wash them, drain them on a cloth, and then melt a pound of butter, and pour it over them. Put the potatoes in a stewpan on a quick fire, with fire on the cover. \Vhen done, fry the potatoes in butter, a little veal glaze, and serve immediately. Potatoes, Fried (German method). Fry in some butter small slices of bread and sliced potatoes parboiled in water lightly salted; serve them on a dish, and pour over them a little bouiUi of potato flour; sprinkle with sugar, and brown them in a Dutch oven. Potatoes Pried in Butter. Peel some raw potatoes, and cut them in thin slices. Fry them in butter over a hot fire, continually turning them, until they become sufiiciently brown. Let them drain ; then ai-range them on a hot dish, sprinkle salt over them, and serve. Potatoes Pried Whole. Boil small potatoes of uniform size until they are almost done enough. Drain them, and put them into a frying-pan sufficiently large to allow them to lie without touching one another, with plenty of hot fat. Shake them about till they are lightly and equally browned all over, and serve as soon as they are done enough. If liked, they may be dipped in e g and bread-crumb before they are fried. Cold boiled potatoes may be re-dressed in this way. Time to fry, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost, potatoes Id. or IM. per pound. Allow two or more potatoes for each person. Potatoes, Frost-bitten. Frost seems to have the curious effect of converting the starch of potatoes into sugar. When the tubers are affected by frost, or are what is called frostbitten, they become sweet, and in this state are no longer fit for eating ; they are usually given to cattle, or are used for distillation of spirits, or for making beer. If only slightly frost-bitten they may be partially restored by throwing them into cold water. Potatoes in Cases. Wash half a dozen large potatoes, and bake them in a moderate oven. When done enough, cut a round the size of a crown from the top of each, and carefuUy scoop out the inside, though not so as to leave the skin quite bare. Rub the pulp thi-ough a colander, and mix with it an ounce of butter, two table-spoonfuls of milk, and a little popper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fii-e until it is hot, then add the white of an egg beaten to a froth. Eub the skin of the potatoes with butter, fiU them with the mixture, put the lids in their places, and bake the potatoes in a quick oven. If liked, the potato-cases can be filled with minced meat or forcemeat instead of mashed potatoes. Time to bake the potatoes, two hours at first, afterwards until quite hot. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or tkree persons. Potatoes, Mashed. Boil or steam the potatoes until they are sufficiently cooked, and are mealj and dry. Carefully remove any discoloured places there may be upon them, put them into a bowl, and beat them with a woodea spoon for two or three minutes, and whilst beating, add a little salt, a slice of butter oiled, and one or two table-spoonfuls of boihng milk or cream. When the beat potatoes are quite smooth and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan, and beat them over the fire for a minute or two, till they are light and quite hot. Dish theni lightly, and draw the fork backwards over them to roughen the sm-face. Or butter a mould, press the potatoes into it, brown them in the oven, and tiu-n them out before serving. Or put them into a dish, and reserve a small portion of the mash. ? Press this through a colander upon the top of the potatoes, and brown the surface before the fire, or with a red-hot ii'on. Or press them into small buttered pans, hro-\vn them, and turn them out before serving; serve very hot. Time, half an hour or more to boil the potatoes. Probable cost, Id. to lid. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds of potatoes for four or five persons. Potatoes, Mashed (another waj-). Mashed potatoes are ordinarily prejjared by crushing the hot dressed tubers with a rollingpin or the back of a spoon, the tubers beingplaced in a bowl or dish, or on a pie-board. A little millc, butter, and salt may be added or not, according to taste, and the jjotatoes may either he at once served up, or pressed into forms, browned off in the oven, and then served. Potatoes Mashed and Browned. BoU a pound of mealy potatoes in their skins. When done enough, peel them, throw them into a bowl, and beat them lightly with an ounce of butter, two table-sjjoonfuls of cream or milk, a little pepper and salt, and the yolk of an egg. Butter a pie-dish, turn the mashed potatoes into it, brush over with the white of an cgg? ornament cin the top, and brown in a quick oven. Serve the potatoes in the dish. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the potatoes, ten minutes to brown them. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient fc r two persons. Potatoes, Mashed, Cod with {see Cod with Mashed Potatoes). Potatoes, Mashed, with Onions. Boil and dry the potatoes, and mash them according to the directions given above, and whilst mashing mix with them two or three onions which have been boiled till soft and finely minced. The quantity of onion used will of course be regulated by taste. Some cooks, when t}ae flavour is very much lilted, chop up a raw onion, and mix it with the potatoes. Time, from half an hour to an hour to boil POT ( 63.3 ) POT the potatoes. Probable cost, Id. or Ijd. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds of potatoes for four or five persons. Potatoes, Mock New, in Cream. Wash and peel a number of old jiotatoes of a small size, and cut them down to the size of new potatoes. Boil them in salt-and-water for eight or ten minutes, then pour off the liquid, cover with a cloth, and let them steam by the side of the fire for ten minutes. Almost cover them with cream, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them simmer very gently until they are quite done enough, but whole. Lift them out carefully with a spoon, poui- the cream over them, and oorv verv hot. If preferred, white sauce may of cream. Time, half an hour, of potatoes, Id. or 1 Jd. per pou a dozen for each person. Potatoes Moulded wit Mash some potatoes till q\ bind them together with one oi eggs. Put them into a dish, aa dome-like form high in the the surface, and afterwards dr fork gently over it, and sprin finely-grated Parmesan. Pu butter here and there upon potatoes till they are brightly very hot. Probable cost, 7d. pounds of potatoes for four or Potatoes, New, Boile dug new potatoes. Wash tl off the skin with a flannel i Throw them into boiling which a sprig of mint may be is not disliked, and let the untU they are quite tende: liquid, and let them stand 1 fire with the lid only half on they are thoroughly di-y. P into a hot vegetable tureen, over this, and serve very In should be cooked before they four hours out of the gi agTceable to the taste, they so digestible as fully-grown bon, fifteen to thirty mini size. Probable cost. Id. to Sufficient, thi-ee pounds for s' Potatoes, New, Stewi ' Take new potatoes when th season and are young and si skins with a flannel or coar dry them well, and put the with a slice of fresh butter enough for a good-sized dislgently until the}' are done the saucepan every two or they may be equally cooked salt and pepper over thei hot. Time to stew, about 1 bable cost, when they first ket, Is. per poiind or mor ; pounds for a dish. Potatoes, Preserve' 3 preserved so as to endure 3 by thoroughly desiccating them in an oven, or by steam heat. To facilitate the operation, the tubers, either raw or three-parts dressed, are usually first cut into dice thi-ee-quarters of an inch square. '' Potatoes, Rolled. Take two pounds of boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Mash them well, flavour with grated nutmeg, and beat, them up with an ounce of claa-ified butter a table-spoonful of sherry, and the yolks of two eggs. Make the mixtui-e into a roll, brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs equally over it, and bake in a well-buttered dish till it is nicely browned all over. Serve on a hot dish, and pour over it a sauce prepared as follows : Beat the yolk o? an egg, and mix with it two glassfuls of hght wine. Add a httle sugar and grated nutmeg, and whisk the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken. Take it off at once, and serve immediately. Time, two or three minutes to boil the sauce ; about half an hour to brown the roll. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potatoes, Savoury (a German recipe). HaK-boil six or eight large potatoes, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, or, if preferi'ed, substitute two ounces of fat bacon cut into small pieces for the butter. Add a minced onion, and let it stew imtil tender. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour into the butter, and stir until it is smooth and brown ; then pour in gradually as much boiling stock or water as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream. Add a pinch of thyme and marjoram, a large table-spoonful of chopped parsley, some pepper and salt, and a little grated nutmeg, a bay-leaf, or any other flavouring. Let the sauce simmer a few minutes, put in the sliced potatoes, and when they are tender without being broken, turn the whole upon a dish, and serve very hot. If liked, the butter and flour may be kept from browning, and a little milk may be used to thin the sauce. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Potatoes, Scalloped. Mash some potatoes in the usual way with butter and a little hot milk. Butter some scallop-shells or patty- pans, fill them with the mashed potatoes, make them smooth ?n the top, and then draw the back of a fork over them. Sprinkle finelygrated bread-crumbs on the top, and lay small pieces of butter here and there upon them. Put the potatoes in a Dutch oven before the fire tiU they are brightly browned, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin in the scallop-shells. Time, about a quarter of an hour to brown the potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or l- d. per pound. Sufficient, one scallop-shell for each person. Potatoes, Sliced (German way of cooking).- Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan, mix one ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir the paste until it is lightly browned. Add a table-spoonful of vinegar, a small lump of sugar, a quarter of a pint of hot stock, and a bay-leaf, and boil the sauce until it is of the consistency of cream. POT ( 636 ) POT Slice four or five potatoes, throw them into the sauce, and let them simmer gently until tender. Serve immediately. If liked, the sauce can be flavoured with onion. Time to simmer the potatoes, ten minutes. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for two persons. Potatoes, Sliced, with Parmesan. Cut some firm boiled potatoes into slices. Place them in layers in a dish, and pour over each layer a small portion of white sauce. Put a little of the sauce smoothly over the top, and spi'inkle over this some grated Parmesan cheese and bread-crumbs so as to cover it entirely. Drop a Httle butter here and there on the top, put the dish in a well-heated oven until the potatoes are warmed through, and then serve. Cold potatoes may be warmed in this way, and they will be very good if the Parmesan is omitted and cream used instead of white sauce. Time to heat the potatoes, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. for a moderate-sized dish. Potatoes, Steamed. Wash and pare some fully-grown potatoes, and as they are done throw them into cold water. Drain them, put them into a steamer, and place this over a saucepan of boiling water. Cover closely, and keep the water boiling until they are done enough. When a foi-k will pierce them easily they are ready. Shake the steamer over a bowl for a minute to give the potatoes a flowery appearance, and serve very hot. In order to steam potatoes it is, of course, necessary that the steamer should be made to fit the saucepan which contains the boiling water. Time, twenty to forty minutes, according to the quality of the potatoes. Probable cost, Id. to i d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Potatoes, Stewed (a la Fran aise). Wash eight or nine large potatoes in two or three waters. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with barely enough water to cover them, and let them simmer gently till they arc half cooked. Peel them, and let them lie till they are almost cold ; then cut them into slices half an inch thick. Melt an ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan, and mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it. Add graduaUj tlu'ee-quai'ters of a pint of boiling stock, four small onions finely shred, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Sinmier the sauce gently until the onion is quite soft. Put in the sliced potatoes, let them simmer gently until done enough, and serve in a hot dish with the sauce poured over them. Time to simmer the potatoes by themselves, about twenty minutes; in the sauce, ten minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Potatoes, Storing of. If kept in a cool dry i)laee, potatoes v iU keep good for many months, and as they are generally high in price during the winter months, it is a good plan to buy a quantity when they are cheap for use when they are dear. When spring comes they will begin to put out shoots, especially if they are kept in a damp place, and this will make them unfit for food. To prevent this, some cooks dip them for a moment into boiling water before storing them. For domestic use, the best way to preserve them is to buy them with the earth still clinging around them, as they are dug out of the ground, to lay them upon straw in a diy, cool cellar, and in winter time to cover them with straw to keep the frost from them. They should be looked over carefully before they are put way, and if there are any rotten ones amongst the number they should be removed, or they may contaminate the rest. When a large quantity are to be preserved, a deep hole should be dug in the ground and lined vnth. straw, the potatoes put into it, and covered with straw. Potatoes, Stuffed. Hollow out large potatoes, and fill them with mealy potatoes beaten to a paste in a mortar with chapped l arsley, chives and shallot, butter, fat bacon cut into dice, pepper and salt. Butter the insides of the potatoes, and nearly fill them with the above paste ; put them on a buttered tin, and bake in a Dutch oven. When bro \ led, serve. Potatoes, Substitutes for. Oxalis Crniatn, introduced from South America as a substitute for potatoes, which it resembles, may be dressed as follows : Set the roots on the fire in boiling water, and when soft pour off the water, and place some hot cinders near the lid of the saucepan, which will thoroughly dry the roots, and render them mealy. The stalks of the plant may be peeled, and used like those of rhuoarb in tarts. The Cerfeuil Bulbeux is another t;ubstitute for the potato. It is said to surpass that vegetable in nutritive qualities, containing more starch and fatty matter. It has a very agreeable flavour. Another substitute is a gigantic yam, a yard in length, from Rio Janeiro and New Zealand. Potatoes, Varieties of. The varieties of the potato that are cultivated are very numerous, and new ones are constantly appearing. The soil in which the potato is grown will be found to have a considerable influence in determining the quality of the potato ; and almost every district has its peculiar varieties, their names being quite arbitrary or local. Most kinds are vastly improved by remo\-al to a dift'erent locality; hence growers rarely use for many years in succession their own tubers for seed, but continually renew the stock by purchases from another district. One tuber will produce as many separate plants as it has eyes, but a piece of the potato must be planted with each eye or shoot. The many varieties differ in form, size, colour, and time of ripening ; some are more jirolific than others, some are naturally waxy and watery, and some are mealy, which is an unfailiug characteristic of the best kinds. Potatoes with Sauce. Put some butter in a stewpan, thicken it -svith flour, end fr) some onions in it till they become bro'wn. Pour over them some stock broth, and season with salt and pepper, nutmeg, and vinegar. When the onions are sufficiently cooked, add some cooked potatoes; let them remain until they are hot, and then serve immediately. POT ( 637 ) POT Potatoes with Sauce Piquant. Wash, pare, and half boil some large potatoes. Drain them, and when nearly cold cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Cut two or three rashers of fat bacon into small pieces, place them in a stewpan with a finelyminced onion, and let them steam until the onion is tender. Add a little pepper and salt, a limip of sugar, a bay-leaf, and as much stock or water as will barely cover the sliced potatoes. This sauce should be thickened with tiour to make it of the consistency of thick cream, and as much vinegar may be added as will make it agreeably acid. Let the sauce boil a few minutes, put in the sliced potatoes, and let them simmer till they are tender without being broken. Serve very hot, with the sauce poured over them. Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, potatoes. Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient, six large potatoes for two or thi-ee persons. Potatoes with White Sauce. Take some dressed potatoes, cut them in pieces, pour white sauce {see White Sauce) over them, and serve. Potatoes with White Sauce (another way). Thicken some butter with flour in a stewpan, add some milk or cream, with chives and parsley cut small, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and boil these ingredients to the consistence of sauce. When ready, put in some cooked potatoes cut in slices, and some eggs beaten up. Pot-au-feu. This is a common dish in France, and is to be met with in almost everjhousehold. The foundation is beef, and if other meats are used they are reserved to make their appearance imder different disguises. The parts most generally used are the leg, shoulders, and ribs. The upper parts of the leg are, however, the best for the pui-pose. The bouillon or broth is flavoured with vegetables that are boiled in it, and these are served with the bouilli or boiled beef. In making pot-au-feu it must be remembered that the stewpan must be scrupulously clean. It is usually made of tinned metal or earthenware. The meat should be quite fresh, should be simmered very gently but continuously, and skimmed with great care. The fire should be steady but slow, and should be mended very gently when necessary, that the ebtillition may not be increased. The stewpan should not be very closely covered, or the bouillon will not be clear and the true French bouillon is clear, limpid, of a golden-amber colour, and exhales pleasantly the combined aromas of the various meats and vegetables. The latter should be added after the meat has simmered haK the time, and they should not be allowed to remain in the pan after they are done enough, or they will absorb some of its fiavour. A little caramel or burnt sugar may be used to colour the liouillon, and this should be added the last thing. Some prefer the bouillon the first day, and some the second. To preserve it, it should be strained, put into a clean earthenware pan without cover, kept in a cool place, and boiled up every day in summer and every three days in winter. It should be remembered that if either turnips or garlic are used the I broth will not keep so well as if thoy were omitted. It is the French custom to put small slices of toasted bread into the soup tureen, to pour the bouillon over them, and to let these soak a few minutes before serving. The following are the detailed instructions for making pot-au-feu: Take four pounds of fresh beef and any bones that may be at hand. Bind the meat to keep it in shape, and break the benes into small pieces. Put the bones into the stewIJan, lay the meat upon them, pour over them three quarts of cold water, and add a tea-spoonful of salt. Heat the liquid slowly and carefuUj-, removing the scum as it rises. Keep adding a table-spoonful of cold water to assist its doing so, and skim most particularly until the soup is quite clear. When it is thoroughlj skimmed, cover tightly to keep out the dust, and let it simmer very gently for two hours. Add an onion stuck with tkree cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjone, five or six outer stickS' of celerj', a leek, two carrots, a bay-leaf, a turnip, and a tea-spoonful of whole pepper.. The vegetables should be added gradually, that the temperature of the soup may not be lowered by them. Let the vegetables simmer gently and continuously for two hours longer, or untU they are tender. Add a little more pepper and salt if required, and serve the bouillon in a tureen ; and as a remove, the bouilli and the vegetables. Time, five hours from the time the liquid has once boiled. Probable cost, beef, lid. per pound. Sufiicient for ten or twelve persons. Pot-au-Feu (another way). Make up the fire so that it will bum for three hours without putting on coals ; taking care that it is not too fierce. For the little pot-au-feu (enough for four persons), take a pound and half of meat for choice let it be the rump or round of beef ten pennyweights of bone (about the quantity which is sent with the meat), four quarts of water filtered, two pennyweights of salt dry and well powdered, ten pennyweightsof carrots, ten pennyweights of onions, fifteen pennyweights of leeks, one pennyweight (rf' celery, one pennyweight of cloves, ten pennyweights of turnips, and two pennj veights of parsnips. The cloves should be stuck in one of the onions. By peimyiceight, it should be explained, is here meant the weight of an ordinary bronze penny, which is the third part of an ounce. For the greater pot-au-feu (for high days and holidays), take three pounds of meat, one pound of bones, six quarts of water, four pennyweights of salt, twenty pennyweights of carrots, twenty pennyweights of onions, thirty pennyweights of leeks, three pennyweights of celery, two pennj-weights of cloves, twenty pennyweights of turnips, and fom- pennyweights of parsnips. Be careful that the beef is fresh. Stale and dry meat makes bad soup and worse pot-au-feu. Tie up the meat with, a tape to keep it in shape. Smash the bones. Put the bones in the saucepan first, then the meat, then the water, cold. Put on the fire, add the salt, and make the jwt boil. As soon as the scum begins to rise, throw in half a pint of cold water for the great, and a gill for the small pot-au-feu, and skim with a perforated spoon. Do both three times. Wipe POT ( 638 ) POT the edges of the pot carefully; then add the vegetables as mentioned above, and as soon as the pot begins to boil put it on the side of the fire, and simmer very gently five hours for the great pot-au-feu, and three hours for the smaller. Never let the boiling be rapid ; never let it fail to simmer. Take the meat out, and place it on a dish. Taste the soup, and if not salt enough, add a little salt when in the tureen. Skim ofl; the fat, strain off the soup, add a little burnt sugar to colour it five minutes before serving, and send up the meat with the vegetables arranged round it. This soup will serve as the stock for almost any soup that is desired. Food Journal. Pot-au-Feu (another way). " The pot-aufeu," says Mr. Buckmaster, " is an economical and wholesome dish, and is well-suited either to a large or small family. It is the standard dish of all classes in France, and the origin of beef stock." Mr. Buckmaster's recipe for making l)ot-au-feu and bouillon is as follows : Take a jnece of fresh beef weighing six pounds, and about a pound of bones. Tie up the meat neatly with tape or string. Put all into a saucepan holding six quarts, fill it up with enough rain-water to cover well both meat and bones, and set the pan on the fire. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, and do not let the liquid boil. At intervals add small quantities ?of cold water, which will have the effect of checking the ebullition and helping the scum to rise. When the scum is all removed, put in an ounce of salt, a salt-spoonful of whole pepper and allspice, one onion stuck with three cloves, one leek, three carrots of average size cut in two-inch lengths, two turnips of average size each cut in four, and a bouquet garni (bunch of herbs). These vegetables should not be put iji all at once, but at short intervals, so as to keep the contents of the saucepan at the same temperature. Skim now for the last time, and set the pan by the side of the fire to simmer gently for three or four hours. According to the season all or some of the following vegetables may now be added : A small head of celery cut in two-inch lengths, and a couple of parsnips. When about to serve, strain the broth, skim off the fat, and add a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf sugar. Make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup tureen over small slices of toasted bread, adding, according to taste, a portion of the vegetables cut into thin slices. Remove the tape or string, and serve the meat, garnishing with mashed potatoes, spinach, or other vegetables in season. Do not be too liberal in the use of pepper and salt; these can be added according to taste after the soup is ready. Pot-au-Peu, French, Analysis of the. In the housekeeping of the French artisan the broth-pot yields the most substantial nourishment; the wife attending to it, yet without possessing the slightest notion of chemistrj : she places the meat in the pot, with about two quarts of water to three pounds of beef, at the corner of the fire, where, slowly becoming hot, the heat swells the muscular fibres of the beef, dissolving the gelatinous substances therein contained. By these means i the scxun gradually rises, the osmazomc (which is the most savom-y part of the meat) gently adds its unction to the broth, and the albumen (wliich is the muscular part producing the scum), exuding itself, rises to the sui-face. Thus by the simple process of having conducted her broth-pot by slow degi-ees, a relishing and nutritious broth has been obtained, and a j iece of meat tender and palatable also. Such are the advantages of this truly chemical operation ; whilst in inconsiderately placing the pot over too quick a fire, the boiling is precipitated, the albumen coagulates and hardens ; the water prevented from penetrating the meat, the osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself, and thus nothing is obtained but a piece of meat hard in the eating, and a broth without taste or succulence; therefore the greatest masters direct those who are charged with the putting on of the stock-pots, to skim them slowly over a gentle fire, adding at intervals a Httle cold water, that the scum may rise more copiously ; these are the useful results that practice daily evinces to even the least skilful of the profession. It is sufficient to possess but a small share of sense to become quickly aware of these first principles of alimentary chemistry. Careme. Pot-au-Feu, au Bain-Marie. Put in an earthen pot three pounds of beef cut in slices, two pound;? of tiUet of veal, a loin of mutton, removing all the fat, a fowl coloured by roasting, and five pints of cold water. Add two carrots, a turnip, tlu-ee leeks, and haK a head of celery tied in a bundle, and a clove stuck in an onion. Cover the pot closely, and surround it with a rim of paste made rather soft and of fiour and water only. The paste should hermetically close the cover that the steam may be retained within. Place the pot within a stewpan four inches more in width containing water, and let it boil uninterruptedly for six houi's. Be careful to add boiling water at intervals to the bain-marie, the ebullition of which wiU thus always remain the same. At the end of the six hours remove the paste from the cover, pass the broth through a silk sieve, and use it for soups and consommes. This is also a stock for a family, and nourisliing for persons whose stomachs are impaired by fatigue, and it may be made more refreshing if, in making, two lettuces, a handful of sorrel and chervil, picked, washed, and tied in a bundle, are added. Pot-au-Feu, Household (a restorative broth). Put in an earthen pot sufficiently large four poimds of beef sliced, a good knuckle of veal, and a fowl half roasted. Add nearly three quarts of cold water, set it at the side of the fire, and skim gently. Add salt, two carrots, a turnip, three leeks, and half a head of celery tied in a bundle, and a clove stuck in an onion, and let it boil slowly for five hours without ceasing. Then take up the roots and trim them neatly ; taste the broth, using but little salt to flavour the soup; skim, add the roots to it, and serve. This is a healthy soup, and good in families where the nouiishment of children is to be attended to. POT ( 639 ) POT Pot-herbs. One is inclined to infer from the name pot-herbs that they play an important part in cookery, and occupy the place of leading articles of diet. It is not so, howover : pot-herbs are rather those which are of secondary importance, and of value cliiefly for flavouring, as parsley, horseradish, Indian cress, &c. Borage. A native or naturalised in some parts of this country. Its young leaves and tender tops afford a boiled dish in summer and autumn ; they are also sometimes used as salads. Chervil. An annual plant, a native of varieus Continental regions, and sometimes met ?with naturahsed in English gardens. A variety of chervil cultivated in Paris has beautiful frizzed leaves. The tender leaves are made use of in salads and soups ; those of the curled variety are also used in garnishing. Dill. A hardy biennial plant, possessing powerful aromatic properties. By means of its leaves one may heighten the relish of some vegetable pickles, particularly cucumbers. The leaves are also employed in salads and soups. Fennel. A perennial plant, naturalised in this country', and long an inmate of our gardens. Its tender stalks are used in salads ; the leaves boiled form an ingredient in fish sauces ; they are used raw to garnish several dishes. There is a variety of fennel called finochio, the blanched stalks of which are eaten with oil, vinegar, and pepper, as a cold salad ; sometimes they are put into soup. Horseradish. A perennial plant found by the side of ditches, and in marshy places in some parts of England. Its cultivation in gardens has long been attended to. The root of the horseradish, when scraped into threads, is a popular accompaniment to roast beef. It is also employed in sauces, and in winter salads. Indian Cress. The Indian cress or nasturtium is a native of Peru, and a hardy annual. In its native clime it stands several seasons, but with us our winter being too severe it has to be treated as an annual plant, and be sown every year. Its flowers and young leaves are often eaten in salads ; they have a warm taste like the common cress. The flowers are also used as a garnishing for dishes. Tbe berries, when gathered green and pickled, form an excellent substitute for capers. Marigold. The marigold, or pot marigold, has been kno\vn in this country since 1573. It is a native of France and Spain, and an annual plant. In some districts of England the flowers are employed in broths and soups. Parsley. A hardy biennial introduced into this country in 1548. It is a native of Sardinia. It is now so common with us as to be naturalised in several districts both in England and Scotland. " It may be right to notice," says Neill, "that the poisonous plant called fool's parsley (iEthusa Cynassium), a common weed in rich garden soils, has been sometimes mistaken for common parsley. They are easily distinguished : the leaves of fool's parsley are of a darker green, of a different shape, and instead of the peculiar parsley smell, have, when bruised, a disagreeable odour. When the flower-stem of the fool's parsley appears, the plant is at once distinguished by what is vulgarly called its beard three long pendant leaflets of the involucrimi. The timid may shun all risk of mistake by cultivating only the curled variety. This last, it may be remarked, makes the prettiest garnish." The leaves of the common plain-leaved parsley and the curled-leaved are used as pot-herbs all the year round ; they are also used for garnishing. The broad-leaved sort has a large white carrotshaped root, which is drawn in autumn and winter, like j)arsnips, for the table. Purslane. ? An annual plant, a native of America. It wa3 introduced into England in 1652. The young shoots and succulent leaves of the purslane are considered cooling, and are used in spring and summer in salads, and also as pot-herbs and pickles. Purslane is not so much in demand now as it used to bo. Tarragon. A perennial plant, a native of Siberia, cultivated in England since the middle of the sixteenth century. The smell of tarragon is fragrant, and it has an aromatic taste. The leaves and tender tips form an ingredient in pickles. A pleasant flsh sauce is made by simply infusing the plant in vinegar. "In France it is employed, on account of its agreeable pungency, to correct the coldness of salad herbs ; it is also put in soups and other compositions." The following directions for drjdng and preserving pot-herbs are from the pen of a celebrated herbalist : "It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing sweet herbs. All vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower; the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the season ; that is, when the greater part of the crop of e ich species is ripe. Take care that they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they wiU have a better colour when di'ied. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt and dust, cut off the roots; separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such quantities at a time that the process may be speedily finished, i.e., ' kill 'em quick,' says a great botanist ; by this means their flavour will be best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drj-ing herbs, &c., hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of the sun. The only caution requisite is to avoid burning, and of this a sufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour." The common custom is, when they are perfectly dried, to put them into bags, and hang them up to the roof of a kitchen, or lay them in a drj place ; but a better method is to pick oft' the leaves from the stalks, to rub them over a hair sieve so as to extract the dust which generally adheres to them, particularly those which are purchased with the roots on, and to put them in wide-mouthed bottles (taking care that they are quite dry), and if well stopped the aroma of the herb will bo preserved. Another plan is to infuse the herbs in as much spirit, vinegar, or wine, as will cover them, and after ten or twelve days to POT (640) POTJ strain off, repeating it with the strained liquor over fresh herbs if it is wished to have the essence very strong. This impregnates soups or sauces with the flavour without anj appearance of the herb, and it will keep good for years, whilst a very small quantity suffices. The proper season for gathering the following herbs to be preserved in cither mode or in both, is as follows : Basil, from the middle cf August to middle of September ; knotted marjoram, from beginning of July to end of August ; savory, the same ; thyme, throughout June and July : mint, July ; sage, August and September; tarragon and burnet, from July and August ; chervil, parsley, and fennel, May, June, and July. Pot, Pepper (see Pepper Pot). Potted Dishes. Eecipes for the following potted dishes vill be found under their respective headings : MrxTox Neat's Feet Neat's Tongue OllTOLANS Ox Cheek O.K Tongues Ox Tongue, Whole Partridge Pheasant Pigeon Poultry Rabbits Salmon Shell Fish Shrimps Smelts SNiPEs(Irish Fashion) Sprats Tongues Trout Veal. Anchovies Australian Me. it Beef Cheese Chicken and Ham Crab Crayfish Eels Eggs Fowl Fowl with Ham Grilse or Trout Grouse Ham " Ham and Fowl Hare Herrings Lamprey Larks Lobster Mackerel Potted Head. Cleanse perfectly half a bullock's head and a cow-heel. Put them into lukewarm water, and let them soak for two or thi-ee hours. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan ; cover with cold water, and let them simmer very gently until the meat is quite tender. Pour the liquid into a separate bowl, and set it in a cool place. Let the meat cool, remove from it the bones, skin, and sinew, and cut it into very small pieces. Skim the fat from the top of the broth, strain the liquor, and put it into a jar, with the minced meat and a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Cover closely, and let it bake in a gentle oven for three hours longer. Pour it into small moulds, and let these stand in a cool place. When quite cold the preparation will form a jelly, and it should be turned out for use, and served cold. Garnish the dish with sprigs of fresh parsley. If the jelly is so stiff that there is a difficulty in turning it out, plunge the mould into boiling water for a second or two, and it wUl come away easily. Time, about three hours to simmer the head from the time the water reaches the boilingpoint. Probable cost of bullock's head 8d. per pound. Potted Meat. To pot meat is one way of preserving it longer than would be possible in the ordinary way ; and in potting it this is done by pounding the flesh to a pulp in a mortar, mixing it with salt and spices, pressing it into a jar, and covering it with a thick coat of melted butter or lard to exclude the air. The jar is then tied down tightly with bladder or oiled paper. The remains of any tender, wellroasted meat will answer just as well for jDotting as if it were dressed for the purpose ; but care should be taken first that the meat is cut through, and that every little piece of skin, fat, sinew, and gristle is removed, and afterwards that it is pounded so thoroughly that not a single lump is to be found in it. Care is required, too, in seasoning it, and it is better to add the spices gradually, and to keep tasting the meat until it satisfies the palate for additional spice can be put in when it cannot be taken out. At the same time potted meat is worth nothing unless it is pleasantly flavoured, and it is almost universally liked rather highly seasoned. The meat should be cold before it is cut, and the butter should be cool before it is poured upon the paste. The gravy, too, should be drained thoroughly from the meat, or it will not keep. Dry and salted meats will need more butter than fresh white ones. Potting. By potting is generally meant the operation of preserving edible substances in a state for immediate use in small pots or jars. In the case of animal food, the method of proceeding is first to dress the substance well, carefully deprive it of bones, skin, sinews, &c., and then mince it. After laeing minced it is pounded in a clean polished marble or ii-on mortar, together with a little butter and some cayenne pepper, or other suitable sauce or Sluice, until it forms a perfectly smooth paste. This is pressed into pots, which are about twothirds filled. Clarified butter is then poured in, to the depth of about an eighteenth of au inch ; the pots are closed over and stored in a cool place. In this state their contents can be preserved for a considerable time. Potted meats, fish, &c., are commonly sold in the shops. They are all intended for relishes, and are spread upon bread just like butter. For various recipes for potted meats, &c., sec Potted Dishes. Pot Top Liquor. The fat should always bo skimmed c arefully from the top of soups and sauces, and this fat may be used for frying purposes, and wiU be found excellent. It should, of course, be clarified : to accomplish this it should be boiled gently with a little water, then strained through a gi'avy strainer. Or it may be poured into a bowl with the water, and when it is cold it will be found that the impurities have sunk to the bottom of the cake of fat, and may easily be removed. It is most essential to the excellence of soup that it should be well skimmed, and it is a good plan to throw a table-spoonful of cold water into the liquor as it approaches the boiling-point, to assist the scum in rising. PoulaC Ketch.up. Take a quart of ripe \ elderberries, measui-ed after they have been POU (641) POTJ stripped from the stalks. Put them into a deep jar, and pour over them a pint and a half of hoiling vinegar. Place the jar in a cool oven overnight. Next day strain the liquid without squeezing the fruit, and put it into a saucepan with an inch of whole ginger, two blades of mace, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cloves, and eight shallots. Boil all together for five or six minutes, then pour the ketchup out, and when cold, put it with the spice into small bottles, which must be corked and sealed securely. If Uked, half a pound of boned anchovies may be put into the liquid with the spices, and stirred gently until they have dissolved. Probable cost, uncertain, elderberries being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for four half- pint bottles. Poularde. This is simply another name for capon ; it may be dressed according to the recipe given for tui-keys. Poularde (a la Royal). Bone the bird. Unless the cook is experienced, this had better be done by the poulterer. Fill it with mushroom forcemeat, which will be improved by the addition of a boiled sweetbread. Truss it securely, cover it with thin slices of fat bacon, put oiled paper over this, and tie it on with twine. Put it down at some distance from a clear fire imtil it is heated through, then draw it nearer, and baste liberally until it is done enough. About a quarter of an hour before it is taken down remove the paper and bacon, and let the bird brown nicely. Dish it on a puree of chestnuts prepared as follows : Peel the outer rind from half a hundred sound Spanish chestnuts; throw them into a saucepan of hot water, and let them remain upon the fire until the inner brown skin can be easily removed. Pour the water from them, throw them into cold water, peel, and wipe them with a soft cloth. Put them into a stewpan with a pint of cold milk, and let them simmer very gently until they are quite soft. Drain them, and rub them while hot through a wire sieve. Put the pulp into a stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, a slice of butter, a lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the puree over the fire till it is quite hot, and it is ready for the capon. Time to roast the capon, about an hour and a quarter. One hour to simmer the chestnuts. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poularde (a Stamboul). Draw the bird carefully, and wipe it out vv-ith a damp cloth. Boil half a pound of best rice till it is tender, then drain the liquid from it, and lay it on a sieve before the fire to swell. Moisten part of it slightly with a little highly-seasoned veal stock, and fill the bird with it. Truss it firmly and securel}', cover with thin slices of bacon, fasten oiled paper over this, and lay the bird down to a clear fire. Baste liberally, and a quarter of an hour before it is taken down remove the paper and bacon, and let the bird brown nicely. Moisten the remainder of the rice with veal stock, place it on a hot dish, and lay the capon upon it. Garnish the dish with I slices of lemon, or fresh barberries if they can be had. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poularde, G-alantine of (an excellent supper dish). This dish is always served cold. Split a poularde up the back, and bone it without injuring the skin. If the cook is not experienced in the art of boning poultry, this had better be done by the poulterer. Lay it flat upon the table breast downwards, and season with pepper, salt, and aromatic spices. Spread on it a layer an inch thick either of nicelyseasoned sausage-meat or of good forcemeat, and lay on this long slices of cold boiled tongue or ham, and a few small black truffles, if these are obtainable. Repeat these layers until the galantine is sufficiently filled up. Sew it up securely with twine, as nearly as possible in its original form, roll it lightly in an oiled cloth, and fasten the ends with string. Lay the bones and any trimmings of meat that may be at hand into a stewpan. If there are none, a caK's foot must be used. Lay the fowl upon these, and add a large onion stuck with one clove, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a carrot, and as much good veal stock as will barely cover the fowl. Cover closely, and let it stew gently until done enough. Let it remain in the stock until it is partially cold. Take it up, and having strained the gravy, reduce it quickly to a jelly, and clarify it {see Jelly, To Clarify). Part of this jelly may be used to glaze the galantine, and a Uttle isinglass may be dissolved in it to stiffen it. Let it remain until quite cold, then remove the cloth, take out the stitches, and glaze the poularde. When the jelly is quite stiff, cut it into cubes or diamonds, and use it for garnishing the dish. Time to stew the galantine, one hour and three-quarters, or two hoiu's if very large. Probable cost, varying with the ingredients. Sufficient for a supper dish. Poularde Raised Pie. Make three pounds of good forcemeat. This may be made either with equal parts of fillet of veal and fat bacon freed from skin and gristle, chopped, powdered, and nicely seasoned; or with a pound and a half of fillet of veal, a pound of fresh beef suet, six ounces of panada (see Panada), and four eggs. Whatever ingredients are used, however, care must be taken to pound them thoroughly, first separately and afterwards together, and to add the seasoning gradually so that the forcemeat may be agreeably flavoured. For ordinary tastes, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper and half a tea-spoonful of nutmeg win be sufficient for this quantity of forcemeat. The amount of salt used will depend upon the quality of the bacon. Wash a pound of truffles perfectly clean. Wipe and pare them, then cut them into thin slices. Line a mould or shape a pie large enough to hold the poularde and the forcemeat {see Paste for Raised Pies). Spread at the bottom of it a layer of forcemeat and some of the sUces of truffle. SpHt a poularde down the back, and take out the bones without injuring the skin. If more convenient, this may be done by the poulterer. Lay it breast downwards upon the board. Season the inside Avith peppei-, salt, and spices, and spread on it a POU ( 642) POU layer of forcemeat half an inch in thickness. Put some slices of truffles on this, and then another layer of forcemeat. EoU the poularde over, make the skin meet at the back, and shape it to fit the mould. Lay it breast uppermost on the forcemeat in the pie. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, lay on it some slices of truffle, and cover with the remainder of the forcemeat. Lay on the top some thin slices of fat bacon, put on the lid, press it down, and pinch the edges together; brush over with egg, and ornament it ; make a small hole with a knife in the centre, tie a band of buttered paper round the pie, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when it is sufficiently baked, jjierce it to the centre with a knife or skewer, and if it is tender throughout it is done. Let it cool for half an hour, then pominto it, tlirough the hole at the top, a quarter of a pint of savour j jcUy reduced to gravy. This jelly may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the bird and of the meat, seasoning the liquid nicely, and dissolving in it a little isinglass. When quite cold, serve the pie on a napkin, garnish it with parsley, and carve it in slices the breadth of the pie and about the third of an inch thick. If liked, the truffles may be omitted, and slices of veal and bacon used in their place. Time to bake, two hours. Sufficient for a good-sized pie. Poularde with Rice. Wash haH a pound of best Carolina rice in several waters. Pluck and draw carefully a fine capon, and truss it for boiling. Put it into an oval stewpan with the rice which has been well drained, an onion stuck with two cloves, and as much nicely-flavoured broth as will cover the fowl. Simmer gently for an hour and a half ; strain the gravy, and if it is not sufficiently reduced set aside part of it, and use only as much as is required for sauce for the fowl. Skim the fat from the top. Put the rice upon the dish, lay the fowl upon it, and pour the sauce over all. This dish will be improved if the sauce is thickened with flour, and made to look white by the addition of a little cream or new milk, but this will add to the expense. A small quantity only of sauce must be poured over the fowl or its appearance will be spoilt. Even without the cream this is a pleasing dish, and it is inexpensive and wholesome. Time to simmer the fowl, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. to 5s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poulet a la Marengo. Cut up a large fowl into neat joints. Put these side by side into a stewpan with a little jiepper and salt, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, two shallots, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Move them about until they are nicely browned. Lift them out, and keep them hot. Dredge an ounce of flour into the oil, and stii' until it is quite smooth. Add a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, and stir the sauce over the fii-e until it is sufficiently thick to coat the spoon, remembering not to skim the fat from the sauce. Put in the pieces of chicken, and let them get quite hot, but the sauce must not boil after they are added. Serve on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over the pieces of chicken. Garnish with stewed mushroom buttons. Time to fry the chicken in the oil, half an hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Cd. Sufficient for two persons. Poulet Blanc. Pluck and draw carefully a tender young fowl of good size, and truss it firmly for boiling. Put it into a stewpan with fom- ounces of butter melted, and turn it over two or three times. Lift it out, and mix snioothly with the butter two table-spoonfuls of fl r and as much boiling veal stock as will nearly cover the bird. Put in the fowl, and with it half a dozen small onions, a dozen fresh mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently until it is done enough. Lift it out, and keep it hot for a few minutes. As quickly as possible strain the gravy, mix with it the well-beaten yolk of an Ggg, and stir over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil, or it will curdle. Serve it poured over the fowl, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Time to boil the fowl, one hour and three-quarters or two hours, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Poulet en Cotelettes. Chicken cutlets may either be made of the legs onl) of three or four fowls, the superior parts of which have been used in other ways, or a fresh chicken may be divided into cutlets. When the legs only are used, cut out the thigh-bone, and leave the drumstick untouched. Cover the joints with slices of fat bacon, and stew in nicely-seasoned stock until they are quite tender. Lift them out, put them between two dishes with a weight over them, and let them get quite cold. Trim them neatly, and rub them with a savoury powder made of a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and the eighth of a small nutmeg grated. Dip them in beaten egg and then into bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly bro vned. These cutlets may either be served without sauce, with the juice of a lemon squeezed over them, or they may have white or brown sauce poured round them. The sauce may be made lay ste'wing the bones and trimmings of the chicken. If a whole cliicken is used, the bones should be removed, and six cutlets should bo made by flattening and shaping neatly the legs, wings, breast, and merry-thought. They should then be rubbed with the savoury powder, egged, breaded, and fried, as above. Time, three or four minutes to fry the cutlets which have been already dressed ; ten minutes to fry those from a fresh chicken. Probable cost of chickens, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, allow two cutlets for each person. Poulette, Cucumbers a la [sec Cucumbers a la Poulette). Poulette Sauce. Take an ounce of fresh butter ; cut from it a little piece the size of a nut, and melt the rest in a stewpan. Slix an ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir the paste over the fire for throe minutes, then add gradually a pint of boiling stock. Stir the POU (643) POU sauce over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Draw it away for a minute that it may cool slightly, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Simmer the sauce again until it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Add to it a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a dozen mushroom buttons, and pour it into the tureen. Just before sending to table stii' into it the little piece of butter which was reserved : then servo immediately. To prepare the mushrooms, remove the stalks and peel them. Put them into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of lemonjuice and a table-spoonfid of water. Shake them over the fire for a minute or two till they have absorbed the juice. Put an ounce of butter with them, and boil over a quick fire for five minutes. Turn them into a basin, cover them over, and they are ready for the sauce. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Poultry. Under this head are included domestic bii'ds which are reared for the table, and for their eggs, feathers, &c. The poultry of this country are the common domestic fowl, the turkey, the duck, and the goose ; to which some would add the guinea-fowl, and the peacock. In the following table, drawn up by Dr. Kitchiner, we have the particular seasons for various kinds of poultry and game : Poultry and, Come into Game. Season. Continue. Cheapest. (-Spring To be had") Chickens . .-'Chickens, through November. (.April . . the year .) ;J - . t } March. . TiUJune . December. " ' ' ' ( ''AnHi To be had-, " ' ? ? -b k eT j -' - ("Largest r October Capons . . . ? at Christ- Ditto . . .j and No (.mas (. vember. Green Geese. March { ' '[ J P*?'"' } Ditto. Geese . . . September { Tmy ebni: j jj. . Turkey Poults April . . TillJune . Ditto. Turkeys . . September Till March Ditto. Ducklings . . March . , Till May . Ditto. Ducks . . . June . .{ ? ?b - } Ditto. fDecember; but the September Till ditto -J flights I are uuL certain. Widgeons Teal Plovers Darks . . . November Till March Ditto. Wheatears. . July . .{" Wild Pigeons . March . . { J P* " ." } August. Tame ditto . Tame Rabbits AH the year Wild ditto Wild Ducks Sucking Pigs leverets . . June . .f? --"-} November. All the year March. .{?fPtem Hares . . . September Partridges . . Ditto Pheasants . . October Grouse . . . August Moor Game . Till March. Woodcock . . ) . Snipes November. For the month of Januaby. Capons, poulards, and fowls of all sizes ; chickens, turkeys, larks, snipes (golden plovers are the best) . The well-kno\vn plovers' eggs are those of the black plover. Woodcocks, tame pigeons, and squab pigeons, wild ducks, widgeons, teal, dunbii-ds, pintails (commonly called sea-pheasants). Tame rabbits every month alike. Feuuuary. All kinds of poultry peculiar to January may be had in this month (wild fowl tqjon the decline), guinea-fowl, green geese, ducklings, &c. March. Guinea-fowl, &c. &c. ?S:c., same as the preceding months (the March flight of wild fowl is generally known). Turkey poults, turkeys, wild fowl (these mat be obtained, but are out of season) . April. Same as March, spring chickens (no wild fowl) . May, June. Quails, pea-fowls, guinea-fowls, turkey poults, ducklings ; geese are considered to be prime in these months; chickens to be had every month in the year. Plovers' eggs come in season the beginning of April, and continue tiU the 5th or 6th of June. "Wild rabbits in this month. July. The same as June, ruffs and reas. August. Fine Essex ducks are good this month ; quails are good till game is in season. Other things the same as July. September. Tui-keys, game, ducks and geese, fowls and chickens, pigeons, rabbits, wild and tame. October. Pheasants, &c. &c. &c., same as September. November. AU kinds of wild fowl ; guineafowls come in this month, turkeys of all sizes. December. Wild fowl of every description ; the largest turkeys and capons, and almost all other kinds of poultry, to be had in perfection this month. Fowls and chickens to be had every day in the year. Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferred to those called barndoor fowls, whom we have heard say, tkat they should as soon think of ordering a barndoor for dinner as a barn-door fowl. The age of poultry makes all the difference nothing is tenderer than a j'oung chicken ; few things are tougher than an old cock or hen, which is only fit to make broth. The meridian of perfection of poultry is just before they have come to their full growth, before they have begun to harden. Fowls must be killed a couple of days in moderate and more in cold weather before they are dressed, or they wdl eat tough ; a good criterion of the ripeness of poultry for the spit is the ease with which you can then pull out the feathers : when a fowl is plucked leave a few to help you to ascertain this. " It is sometimes taken for granted by \?rite s on this subject," says one author, " that all the birds which can be domesticated Avith advantage have already been domesticated. The assumption is quite gratuitous, and it might as well be asserted that improvement had reached its utmost in any other direction. The concurrent supposition that the common domesticated kinds were given to man at first as domestic is likewise unsupported by evidence, POU ( 644 ) POU although the (lomestication of some of cm- poultry bii-ds must be referred to a very early date. Among the Anatidcc some progress has recently been made in the domestication of new kinds ; and a beginning may even be said to have been made as to some additional gallinaceous birds." Poultry a la Tartare. Divide the remains of a tm-key capon or any poultry into neat joints, dip those in egg and bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, then. into egg and bread-crumbs again, and set them aside untU wanted. Put the yolk of an egg into a bowl, and beat it for two or three minutes. Add a table-spoonful of dry mustard, a little pepper and salt, and a small pinch of cayenne, and, very gradually, eight table-spoonfuls of saladoil. The oil should be put in first in dro2:)S and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, beating well between each addition. Stir in a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and then more oil and vinegar in the same proportion until the sauce is as thick as custard. Taste it, and add a larger proportion of vinegar if liked, but this will make the sauce thinner, which is not desirable. Add three shallots finely minced, a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, and five or six drops of the essence of anchovies. Poiir this cold sauce upon a dish. Broil the pieces of chicken over a clear fire till they are brightly browned, lay them upon the sauce, and garnish the dish with finoly-minced pickled gherkins. A fresh chicken may be cut into neat joints and served in this waj', and will be found excellent. It should be seasoned, dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, sprinkled with clarified butter, dipped into egg and breadcrumbs again, and broiled over a clear fire for twenty-five minutes or half an hour. Time to broil the chicken, ten minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold chicken, Is. 4d. Poultry and Veal Sausages {see Veal and Poultry Sausages). Poultry, Aspic {see Aspic Game or Poultry). Poultry, Boiled and Trussed. In picking, be careful not to break the skin ; in drawing, not to break the gall-bladder. Let the fowls hang from two to five days, for the most delicate fowl will be tough and thready if too soon dressed. When to be used, draw, singe without blackening, and wash thoroughly, passing a stream of water again and again through the inside. Boiled fowls must be very neatly trussed, as they have small aid from skewers ; and nothing is more indecorous than to see unfortunates on a dinner-table, " whose dying limbs no decent hands composed." Put them on with plenty of water, a little warmed, and in a floured cloth if you like. Ha\'ing, as usual, skimmed them very carefully, simmer by the side of the fire from thirty-five minutes to an hour and a half, according to the size of the fowl. A small tureen of very good barley or rice broth, seasoned with shred parsley and young onions, may be added at the same time, if a shank or small cutlets of neck-mutton be added; which last may be frugally served in the broth. Some good cooks put fresh suet and slices of peeled lemon to boil with fowls. if lean, but larding is better; while legged fowls are most worthy of attention, whether for eating or appearance. Meg Bods. Poultry, Boning of, It is scarcely likely that written instructions only will enable any one to perform this difficult operation ; and far more would be learnt by watching a competent person do the work once than by reading whole pages about it. Nevertheless, the knowledge how to bone meat and poultry is a very desirable kind of knowledge to attain, and one which can only be perfected by practice. The thing to aim at is to loosen the fiesh without injuring the skin, and this can be done only by working the knife close to the bone. A short, sharp-pointed knife is the most suitable for the purpose. It is easiest to divide the bird into joints, and remove the bone from each joint separately. If this will not do, the bird may be split open right down the back, and the bones cut out afterwards, and this plan answers excellently for galantines and dishes of a similar description. The most difficult operation of all is to bone the bird without opening it. Poulterers and butchers are generally very pleased when desiicd to do this work for their customers. Poultry, Boudins, or French Puddings, of. HaK roast the bird. Take ofi: the skin, draw out the sinews, and mince and pound the flesh till it is quite smooth. Mix with it its bulk in baked potatoes, dry and floury, season rather highlj' with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and add as much butter as there was meat. Pound the forcemeat between every addition, then mix in gradually three whole eggS and the yolks of two others, together with one or two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, chopped mushrooms, or dressed onions, but take care that the mixture is not too moist. To ascertain this, make iip a small ball, dro}) it into boiling water, and poach it for five minutes. If it wants firmness, put another eggto it ; if it is too firm, add a little sauce or water. Form the forcemeat into small sausages or boudins, or mould them into the shape of an egg with a table-sjDOon: drop them then into boiling water and poach them. Serve the boudins piled high on a dish, and jiour brown Italian sauce, or white sauce, round them. Before moulding the boudins, put the preparation on ice or in a cool place for some time. Time, four or five minutes to poach the boudins. Poultry, Fattening of, for the Table. They should be kept clean, wanii, and dry. For their food, mix oat and peasemeal with mashed potatoes, and a little kitchenstuff. Have their food always fresh and plentiful, but do not cram them. Those who value colour as much as quality sometimes fatten fowls on rice swelled in sweet, skimmed milk. On the Continent they are fattened on barleymeal with milk, or on buckwheat, and the flavour is excellent. Young pullets are used at any age. Poultry for the Sick. Boil or roast a fowl in the usual way. As it is not likely POU ( 645 ) POU that a sick person will eat the whole at one time, cut oft' as much as is required for present use, and put the rest aside. As much as it is thought will be used may be cut oft' as it is wanted, and warmed up in two or three ways, as follows : Wrap the joint in oiled paper, lay it on a hot gridii'on, and warm it gently over a clear fire. Serve it \ith a little light gra\'y for sauce. Or broil it without the pajjcr. Or put it in a stewpan, barely cover with a little cold broth, and heat it very gently over a moderate fire. Or put an ounce of Carolina rice into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, and let it sinrmer gently until the rice is quite tender and the liquid absorbed. If it is very dry, put two more spoonfuls of stock with it, lay the piece of bird upon the rice, and let it remain a few minutes until it is quite warm. Serve the rice, fowl, and gravy together. When an invalid finds it difficult to masticate food, the fowl may be prepared as follows: Pick the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, and carefully remove every little piece of skin, gristle, or sinew. Mince finely, and, if liked, season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Generally speaking, however, it is best to defer seasoning the food which is intended for the sick, as their fancies ary so much, and they very often exceedingly dislike flavoured dishes. Put the bones and trimmings of the bird into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley and a httle pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently until the gravy is considerably reduced. When the mince is wanted, put a Httle of it into a clean stewpan, strain a small quantity of gravy over it, thicken it or not, according to taste, with a little flour and butter, let it get quite hot, and serve immediately. Poultry, Garnish for {see Garnish for Poultry, Game, iScc). Poultry, Garnish for (another way). See Quenelles as a Garnish for Poultrj'. Poultry, Gravy for [see Gravy, Beef, for Poultry and Game). Poultry, Potato Cakes to Serve "with {see Potato Cakes, German, to serve with Game or Poultry). Poultry, Potted. Poultry may cither be potted whole or cut into neat joints and potted, or the flesh may be picked fi-om the meat and pounded before it is put into the jars. In any case the meat must be thickly covered with butter, or it will not keep. When the meat is not pounded, the joints must bo packed "together as closely as possible, or they will require a good deal of butter. Birds which are boned and stuft'ed are excellent potted: they must be quite fresh, must be carefully cleaned, nicely seasoned, baked, and quite cold before they are piit into the jars, and the butter must be "clarified before it is poured over them. If the meat is to be kept, the jar should be covered vith bladder and tied down closely. Potted chicken is improved by pounding a httle fat and lean ham with the meat. Poultry Prepared for Cooking. Pluck off the feathers of poultry as soon as I;ossible after they arc killed. When they be come cold it is difficult to drav out the quills without tearing the skin, and so spoiling the look of the birds. The down that remains after the feathers are removed is afterwards to be singed off with hghted paper. In the case of some birds, one must draw out the sinews of the leg : this is done by binding the joint close to the claw, and fastening the claw in a vice ; puU the bird then strongly, and the sinews will give way. The next operation is to empty the crop. Cut a slit in the back of the neck, so as to open into the crop. Remove the contents through this sUt. Open the vent, and clean out the entrails. Take care not to break the gallbladder ; if it is not removed carefully its contents will give a bitterness to the flavour of the liver which washing will hardly remove. When the bird is di-awn, separate the liver and gizzard from the rest of the entrails, and put them to be cleansed in cold water. Cut off the necks of fowls, ducks, or geese, close to the body. Before doing this, push up the skin that hangs loosely upon the neck above the part at which it is to be cut oft'. After cutting off the neck, draw the skin down, and wrap it over the end of the neck to hide it from view. Before fastening it down, pour cold water through the body of the fowl. Then break the two bones which lead to the pinions. Now truss the bird. For roasting fowls, trussing is accomplished by cutting oft' the first joint only of the legs, and by turning them down close to the sides towards the vent, and fastening them by a game-skewer passed from one to the other. Pass another sUght skewer through the joint of one wing, into the body, and through to the opiJosite wing. Place the liver and gizzard, one under each wing. To truss fowls tor boiling, cut oft' the whole of the leg, except the thigh, the end bones of which tuck into the apron. Set up the breast to look plump ; place the wings with the liver and gizzard as if for roasting. Tie the whole in proper foi-m with a slight string, which before serving is to be cut and removed. To truss a goose, cut oft" the legs, feet, and pinions. These, with the neck, head, liver, and gizzard, are what are called giblets. The head of a turkey is not cut oft' in trussmg, but twisted round one of the wings. Poultry, Bagout of. This recipe may be followed with almost any kind of poultry or game. Partially roast the bird in the usual way. When it is half dressed, take it down, and, if liked, di\ide it into joints, or it may be stewed whole. Put it into a stewpan with any bones or trinxmings that may be at hand, a large onion stuck with two cloves, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon rolled, half a tea-spoonful of allspice, haK a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, as much stock or, failing this, water as will cover the ingredients, and a httle salt if requu-ed. Simmer all veiy gently till the bird is done enough, then pour off the liquor, and keep the l)irds hot. Strain the gravy, and skim the fat from it. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mixsmoothl} with it as much flour as will make it into a paste, add gradually the hot liquor, a dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, and a glass of port or claret. Let it boil a minute or two. Put the POU ( 643 ) POW meat on a dish, pour the hot gravy over it, garnish with toasted sippets, and sei've very hot. If liked, chilli vinegar can be substituted for the lemon- juice. The remains of cold poultry may be served in the same way, but the meat will not be so succulent as it would be if it were only partially roasted before it was stewed. Time, an hour and a quarter for a duck or a fowl. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poultry, Ragout of (another way) - This is a general recipe, and may be used to ragout poultry, pigeons, rabbits, &c. Half roast the thing which is to be dressed as a ragout. Carve it into joints, as at table, and stew in good stock, with a couple of onions, two dozen corns of allspice and black pepper, a few cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, and for some things a stick of celery, for others a couple of bay-leaves. Skim the stew, and, keeping the lid quite close, let it simmer for tha-ee-quarters of an hour or more, according to the age and size of the birds. Strain off the gravy, leaving the fowls in the stewpan to keep hot. Take off the cake of fat which will soon form, and thicken the gra with bro \ l roux, or butter rolled in browned floxir till it is as thick and stiff as pancake batter. Add to this a glass of white vine and the squeeze of a lemon. Dish the fowls, ducks, or rabbits, or Avhatcver your dish may be, and pour the sauce hot over them. The sauce must be well worked, and ought to be smooth, thick, and well coloured. _ It may be made without wine. Meg. Bods. Poultry, Roasted. Poultiy requh-es to be plucked and di-awm carefully before being roasted. It is a good thing for the cook to know how to do this, as geese and ducks may often be bought at less expense unplucked and untrussed than when ready for the spit, besides which the feathers, if trimmed and dried in the oven, may be used to make pillows and cushions. Geese and ducks are generally stuffed with sage and onions; tm-keys with veal forcemeat or with pork sausage-meat. Poultry, To Make Tender. " If obliged to di-ess poultry innnediately after killing," says the author of a collection of French recipes, "to make it tender, do as follows: Steep it in boiling water, and feather it in the hot water; or before you kiU the poultrj', be it turkey or goose, make it swallow a spoonful of vinegar. These methods wiU make the poultry as tender as if lolled some days previous to being dressed." Pound Cake. Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Beat into it a pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted, upon part of which, before it was pounded, the lind of two oranges or lemons has been rubbed, a pound of dried flour, a pinch of salt, eight eggs which have been thoroughly whisked, the whites and yolks separately, and a glass of wine, brandy, or rose-water. Beat the mixture for twenty minutes, and pour it into a tin which has been lined with buttered paper. Bake in a wellheated though not fierce oven, and if possible do not increase the heat until the cake is baked. Though the cake must be turned about that it may be equally browned, the oven door must not be opened oftener than is absolutely necessary; and if the cake gets too highly colom-ed before it is done enough, a piece of paper should be laid upon it. In order to ascertain whether it is sufficiently baked, put a skewer to the bottom of it, and if it comes out dry and clean the cake is done; if moist, it must be retm-ned at once to the oven. When the cake is done it should be turned out at once, and placed upon the tin in which it was baked, which has been turned upside down until it is cold, and the paper should not be re;noved until the cake is to be used. This cake may be made either larger or smaller by increasing the quantity of the ingredients in their due proportions ; and it may be made less rich by using a larger quantity of flour. A pound of picked and di-ied currants is frequently added to the other ingredients, and the flavour may be varied by the addition of candied peel, lemon or orange, blanched and chopped almonds, pistachio kernels, dried cherries, or plums. Time to bake, one hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Poutarg. This is a kind of dry and pressed caviar. It is prepared with the rocs of mullet or tunny, and is much in demand in Italy and the East. It is served as a hors d'muvre, cut into thin shces, and seasoned with oil, pepper, and lemon- juice. Powders. In. addition to those given below, recipes for the following powders will be fomid under their respective headings : Almoxd-dust, Burnt Herbs Anchovy Horseradish B.\KiNG Mushrooms Biscuit Oyster Curry Eagout CuRRY' (Dr. Kitch- Savoury Herbs iner's Eecipe) Sweet Herbs. Powder, Baking (see Pastrj -powdor or Baking-powder) . Powder, Blancmange. To make this powder, mix one pound of sago meal, fifteen di'ops of essence of lemon, and twelve grains of mace. Powder, Custard. Take two pounds of sago meal, half an ounce of powdered turmeric, and half a drachm each of mace, cassia, and bitter-almond powder. Powders, Ginger Beer. Take one to two drachms of white sugar powdered, twentysix grains of bicarbonate of soda, six grains of the finest Jamaica ginger powdered, and one drop of essence of lemon. Mix these ingxedients, and wrap the powder in blue jjaper. Take thirtj'-five grains of powdered tartaric acid, or thirty grains of powdered citric acid, and Avrap in white paper. To use, dissolve each colour in about half a glassful of water ; mix the two, and drmk whilst effervescing. Powders, Ginger Beer (another way). ? Take sixteen ounces of wliite sugar powdered, one ounce of the finest Jamaica ginger, five ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and fifty or sixty di'ops of essence of lemon. JMix, and divide the POW (647) PRA powder between ninety-six blue pai crs. Put six ounces of tartaric acid into the same number of white papers. Use as directed in the preceding recipe. Powders, Lemonade. Take twelve grains of powdered citric or tartaric acid, half an ounce of wliite sugar powdered, one drop of essence of lemon, or a little of the yellow peel of a lemon rubbed oft' on a lump of sugar. Enough for one glass. Powders, Lemonade (another way). Take four pounds of white sugar powdered, an ounce and a half of citric or tartaric acid, and a quarter of an ounce of essence of lemon. Mix well, and bottle for use. To make a glass of lemonade, take one to two dessert-spoonfuls of the powder. Powders, Lemonade (another way). Powder half an ounce (apothecaries' weight) of citric or tartaric acid with tliree ounces of loaf sugar and a few drops of oil of lemon-peel. Eub these ingredients thoroughly together in a marble mortar, and divide the powder into twelve parts. For use, dissolve one of these in half a pint of cold water. Powders, Lemonade, Effervescing. Take one pound of powdered white sugar, a quarter of a pound of bicarbonate of soda, and one and a half drachms of essence of lemon. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and divide them between six dozen papers. Take five ounces of tartaric or citric acid, and divide it between the same number of white papers. Use as in the case of Ginger Beer Powders {see Powders, Ginger Beer). Powders, Sherbet. Prepare in the same w ay as Lemonadu Powders, varying the flavouring ingredient to suit the particular case. Powders, Soda-water. Place thirty gruins of bicarbonate of soda in each blue paper, and twenty-five grains of tartaric acid or twenty-four grains of citric acid in each ?white paper. To use, mix the contents of each paper separately in about half a glassful of water ; mix the two and drink at once. This is a cooling, wholesome summer drink, but it should not be partaken of to excess. Powders, Spruce Beer. Prepare in the same way as Ginger Beer Powders, but, instead of powdered ginger, use three to six drops of the essence of spruce. Prawn. The prawn is a delicate shell-fish, very much Uke a shrimp, but larger and more delicate in flavour. It varies very much in price. Prawn and Lobster Soup. Take a freshly-boiled hen lobster, remove the meat from the tail and claws, cut it into neat square pieces, and jjut these aside. Pick fifty prawns, put the head and bruised shells of the lobster and the shells of the jirawns into a ste%vi5an with a quart of stock, a sliced onion, and an ounce of butter. Let them simmer gently for an hour, then pour over them an additional two quarts of stock. Mix si.x ounces of fiour with a little cold stock, add this to the soup, and stir until it begins to thicken. Draw it back, set it by the side of the fire, let it simmer gently for half an hour, then press the whole through a fine sieve. Return the soup to the stewpan and let it boil ; skim carefully, and add whatever seasoning is required. Put in the picked prawns and the lobster meat, let them get quite hot, add a breakfast-cupful of thick cream, and serve. Time, two hours or more. Sufiicient for ten or twelve persons. Prawn Curry. Chop half an onion very finely, put it into a stewpan with half an ounce of fresh butter, and let it steam over a gentle fire until it is tender -nathout being browned. Eub it with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve, mix a dessert-spoonful of curry-paste with the pulp, and add gradually half a pint of good stock. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, put into it a pound of prawns which, have been weighed after being boiled and shelled, and let all stew gently together. Servo the curry on a hot dish with a border of boiled rice round it. Time to stew the prawns, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, variable. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Prawn Curry (another way). Mince an onion finely, and steam it in a little butter until it is quite soft. Eub it thi-ough a fine sieve, and mix with the pulp a table-spoonful of the rasped meat of a cocoanut, and a tablespoonful of curry-paste or powder paste is much the better of the two. Add gradually a pint of good broth and half a stick of cinnamon, and let the sauce simmer for a quarter of an hour. Put in a pound of prawns weighed after they have been shelled, and let them simmer for a few minutes. About ten minutes before the curry is taken from the fire, mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with the cocoanut-milk, and add it to the sauce. Stir gently over the fire for five minutes, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the curry, and serve very hot. Send boiled rice to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour. Probable cost, prawns, variable. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Prawn Pie. Have as many well-cleaned prawns as will nearly fill the pie-dish. Season with pounded mace, cloves, a little cayenne or ChiU vinegar. Put some butter in the dish, and cover -n-ith a light puft'-paste. The pie will take less than three-quarters of an hour to bake. Prawn Soup. IMince finely two onions, a carrot, and half a dozen of the outer sticks of a head of celery, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of fresh butter, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, and let them steam gently for a quarter of an hour. Shake the saucepan every now and then to keep them from burning. Pour over them three pints of broth or water, and mix this gradually with fom- ounces of flour mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold water; stir the liquid over the fire till it boils, then draw it back, let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and strain. Pick out the tails of fifty pra-mis, and put the bodies and shells into a stewpan with a little stock and a glassful of light wine. Let them stew for a quarter of an hour; then pass the liquid thi-ough a fine sieve, and mix it with the soup. Season PBA (648) PBA ?with a little cayenne, and add a tatie-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of lemon -juice, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. Put in the picked prawns, let them boil for five or six minutes, and serve very hot. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for six or seven pui'sons. Prawn Soup (another way). Prepare two quarts of stock according to the directions given in the last recipe. Pick the tails from a hundred freshly-boiled prawns, and put the shells and bodies into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a quarter of a pint of stock, and a blade of mace. Let them simmer for twenty minutes. Press the pra'mis tlirough a sieve, and with them the crumb of a French roll which has been softened with a little of the stock. Mix the liquid with the soup, and add a little lemon-juice and Harvey's sauce, with a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne ; boil for five minutes ; add the shelled prawns, and, when they are quite hot, serve the soup in a tureen. Time, altogether about an hour and a halt 'Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Prawns and Shrimps, Choosing of. When fresh, prawns have a sweet flavour and a bright colour, and are firm and stiff. Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and are to be judged by the same rules. Prawns, Boiled. Put two table-spoonfuls of salt into half a gallon of water, and bring the liquid to the boil. Throw in the pra-\vns, and let them remain for about eight minutes. They are done enough when they change colour. Drain them on a sieve, and let them cool. They should be served while fresh. Stale prawns which are not too stale will be improved if they are thrown for one minute into fast-boiling water, before they are served. Prawns are best when they have no spawn under their tails. Prawns, Buttered. Pick a pint of freshly-boiled prawns. Pruise the shells, and put them into a stewj an with a breakfast- cupful of stock, and a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Let them simmer for twenty minutes; strain the liquid, and thicken it with flour and butter to the consistency of thick cream. Put in the picked prawns, and heat them thoroughly. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time, three minutes to heat the prawns. Sufficient for three or four pcreons. Prawns, Cold, to Dish. Place a cup upside down in the centre of a small dish, and cover it neatly with a white napkin. Put the prawns round it, and garnish with plenty of parsley. Or cut a slice from a lemon or orange, so that it may stand firmly. Place it on a napkin, and arrange the pra- Tis prettily upon it, putting a little fresh parsley between the rounds. The prawns may be kept in position by the horns being stuck lightly into the lemon. Garnish with parsley. Prawns in Jelly (a pretty supper dish). Take a quart of stiff calf's-foot stock free from fat and sediment, and put it into a stewpan with half a dozen shallots, each one with a clove stuck in it, two bay-leaves, half a blade of mace, and a sprig of thyme. Let these simmer gently untU the stock is pleasantly flavoured, then strain it into a bowl, and let it cool. AVhisk the whites of two eggs with a little cold water. Stir this briskly into the stock, put it back into the saucepan, add the crushed shells of the eggs, and let the stock boil, but on no account stir it after it begins to get hot. Keep it boiling for a quarter of an hour, then lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for another quarter of an hour. Strain it through a jeUy-bag until it is clear. Pour a little of the jelly into a damp mould. When it is firm, lay some prawns upon it with their backs downwards, and pour more jelly over them. KeiDcat imtil the mould is full, and be careful that each layer of jelly is set before another is put in. Put the jeUy in a cool place, and turn it out before serving. If liked, the jelly may be made with isinglass or gelatine dissolved in water instead of calf's-foot stock. Time, twentj'-four hours to set. Sufficient for a threepint mould. Prawns, Malay Curry of. Pick some prawns from their shells ; let them bo a pint when prepared. Easp the half of a large cocoanut into two spoonfuls of hot water, and then smooth it through a sieve. Stew the prawns very gently with a shred onion and enough good mutton or veal broth to cover. See that the broth is well seasoned, and put in a stick of cinnamon. When the prawns are getting tender, mix two dessert- spoonfuls of currypowder in a little cold broth, add it to the rest in the stewpan, and simmer for a few minutes. Take out the prawns, and strain the gravy over them into a clean pan ; make hot, and add the rasped cocoa-nut, and flour enough to thicken, which should be mixed with some of the nutmilk. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve with juice of a lemon and boiled rice in a separate dish. Time, one hour. Sufficient for a dish. Prawns, Potted. Pick fresh prawns after they have been boiled. Cut them lightly, and pound them in a marble mortar with a small quantity of fresh butter, a seasoning of cayenne and powdered mace or grated nutmeg, and a little salt, if necessary, but it is probable that they will not require it. Put them into jars, cover with clarified butter lukewarm, and tie a bladder securely over them. Time to boil, eight minutes. Prawns, Shelling of. Hold the head of the prawn firmlj- in the right hand and the tail in the left. Straighten the body of the fish, and bring the thumbs near one another. Break the shell of the tail with a httle twist of the right hand, then draw the shell off. It wiU come off almost whole, a very small piece only being left. Unless the prawns are fresh, they will not shell easily. Prawns, Shrimps, or Crayfish, Potted. Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. When you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and salt; add a FRA (649) PRE little cold butter, and pound all well together in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it into pots covered with clarified butter, and cover these over with wetted bladder. Dr. Kitchener. Prawns, Stewed. Pick the tails from a pint of freshly-boiled prawns. Bruise the shells, and put them with the heads into a saucepan with a pint of white wine and water, then add a dessert- spoonful of vinegar, half a blade of mace, and a little cayenne. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. (Strain the liquid, put it back into the saucepan, thicken with a tea-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little butter, and boil till it is of the consistency of thick cream. Put in the tails of the prawns, and let them get quite hot. Toast a slice of the crumb of bread, and cut it into strips. Lay these in their original form on a dish, pour the stewed prawns over them, and serve very hot. Garnish with parsley. Time, three or four minutes to heat the prawns. Sufficient for four or five persons. Preservation of Pood. There are four leading methods by which food, and particularly animal food, has been, and is, preserved with a greater or less amount of success. These are first, diying, or desiccation ; second, the application of cold, or refrigeration; third, the use of chemical agents, or antiseptics ; and fourth, the application of heat. To speak of these methods in order, let us first take the process of drying, or desiccation. In a sense this is hardly a scientific mode of foodpreservation at all ; certainly it is far from a satisfactory one in reference to animal substances, which must be dried almost to a chip before they are fitted thoroughly to resist the ordinary laws of decomposition. It is not, however, altogether to be despised, as by it mankind has been able to utilise a vast quantity of food which would otherwise have been wasted. A good example of food preserved in this way is Charqui, or South- American dried beef, which possesses considerable nutritive value, as is shown by the fact of its having been the staple article of food among the labouring populations in the tropical regions of South Anierica for many years. The attempts made to introduce Charqui into this country have not met with any encouragement, but it is possible that it might be made an adjunct to our food supply. One of the great difficulties attending desiccation is that animal matter preserved by its means loses its flavour, and becomes tough and indigestible; the fat also becomes rancid, and in damp weather the meat absorbs moisture, and is liable to turn mouldy and sour. To a certain extent, this obstacle is overcome by mixing absorbent substances with fatty food, as in " pemmican," where sugar and spice are mixed with dry powdered meat. Meat biscuits, such as those now supplied by wholes-iiie manufacturers, are made on the same principle of farinaceous meal absorbing meat essences. The first recorded patent in this country for the preservation of vegetables by desiccation was granted in 1780 to John Graefer, who dipped the vegetables in boiling salt and water, and then diied them. In November, 1850, a patent was 43 obtained for di-ying and forcibly compressing vegetables, so that they were reduced to oneseventh their original size ; a cubic yard thus contained rations for 16,000 men. The French have been very successful in this line of preservation, but many English houses now produce vegetables in the form of chips or of compressed cakes. From America di-ied vegetables are being imported at Is. 6d. a pound, half an ounce being sufficient for adding to a pint of soup. "Considering," says one writer, " the high price charged by greengrocers for vegetables, and the waste in utilising them in almost every household, housekeepers, even among the working classes, would do well to give their attention to these dried vegetables, and at least give them a trial. When soaked and well boiled they will be found not onlj' economical in their use, but excellent in soups, and even in eating with meat in lieu of ordinary fresh vegetables. The process of di'ying eliminates little else but the water, and takes from them little, if any, of their flavour." Perhaps the reader remembers that compressed vegetables, together with dried meat, were largely consumed in the Crimea by the English and French armies, and that vast quantities of compressed vegetables were supplied to the British troops during the Ashantee campaign. In soup squares or tablets we have a form of preserved food prepared partly by the desiccating method. Most of them are compressed, but some are 'in the foi-m of grains or flour, being composed of various substances, combined with l owdered meat or meat extracts. One house offers an almost endless variety of soup squares, such as carrot, pea, chestnut, mulligatawny,, &c. ; also large cubes called " Gargantua," after the mythical giant celebrated by Rabelais, one of which, dissolved in three pints of water, makes a most delicious pot-pourri of four pounds' weight of nutritious food. The second method, the preservation of food by refrigeration, will be found explained in a succeeding article (see Refrigeration, Food Preserved by). On the preservation of meat by the use of chemical agents, or antiseptics, much ingenuity has been expended by scientific men. The best known antiseptic is chloride of sodium, or common salt, which has been employed for the preservation of animal substances from a very early period. It is likely always to remain in. use, either simply or in conjunction vith an; after-process of drj-ing or smoking, or with both combined. The fact is that many substances treated with conmion salt are extremely tasty and palatable ham and bacon, for example and the cost of the process is exceedingly trifling. It should be remembered, however, that salt by itseK is only a temporary preservative agent, and is dietetically to be objected to on the ground that it extracts the soluble con stitiT ntf, of meat, makes it hard and indigestible, and thus deprives it of its stimulating and nutritive constituents. From the eating of large quantities of salt meat without the proper quantity of vegetables to coimteract its effects, it is well known tliat scorbutic (U.-eases ensue. Besides common salt, other saline substances have been employed for the preservation of PRE (650) PRE meat ; for example, saltpetre, acetate of am- I monia, sulphate of potash, and muriate of ammonia. The smoking of meat or fish by exposure to the vapour of peat, wood, Sec, is chemically subjecting them to the action of the creosote of the empyreumatic oil of the smoke. The preservation of provisions by means of salt, sugar, spices, vinegar, spirit, and fumigation by burning wood, have the drawback of i being partly chemical additions to food, and also of inducing chemical changes, which, to a certain extent, influence the digestibility of the i article. Salt, also, as we have hinted, draws 1 out from the meat some of its chief nourishing constituents. Liebig, in his " Chemistry of Food," remarks: "It is universally knowTi that in the salting of meat the flesh is rubbed and sprinkled with dry salt, and that where the salt and meat are in contact a brine is formed, amounting in bulk to one-third of the fluid contained in the raw flesh. I have ascertained that this brine contains the chief constituents of a concentrated soup, or infusion of meat, and that therefore, in the process of salting, the composition of the flesh is changed, and this, too, in a much greater degree than occurs in boiling. In boiling, the highly nutritious albumen remains in the mass of the flesh ; but in salting, the albumen is separated from the flesh ; for when the brine from salted meat is heated to boiling, a large quantity of albumen separates as a coagulum. "It is now easy to understand that, in the salting of meat, when this is pushed so far as to produce the brine above mentioned, a number of substances are withdi-awn from the flesh which are essential to its constitution, and that it therefore loses in nutritive quality in proportion to this abstraction. If these substances be not supplied from other quarters, it is obvious that a part of the flesh is converted into an element of respiration certainly not conducive to good health. It is certain, moreover, that the health of a man cannot be permanently sustained by means of salted meat, if the quantity be not greatly increased, inasmuch as it cannot perfectly replace, by the substances it contains, those parts of the body which have been expelled inconsequence of the changes of matter, nor can it preserve in its normal state the fluid distributed in every part of the bedy namely, the juices of the flesh. A change in the gastric juice, and consequently in that of the products of the digestive process, must be regarded as an inevitable result of the long-continued use of salted meat ; and if, during digestion, the substances necessary to the, transformation of that species of food be taken from other parts of the organism, these parts must lose their normal condition." We come now to the preservation of food by the application of heat. This is the most successful method yet discovered and practically applied. It is properly termed ' ' preservation in vacito," and in its leading features is simple enough. The first simple process consisted in placing meat with a charge of water in a tin case with a small aperture, or " pin-hole " at the top, and then laying it- in boiling water nearly up to its top ; when the- steam has displaced the ail' the hole is stopped up with solder. This process has been improved upon, and there are now four methods, in a sense distinct from each other, of applying heat to the vessels, and perfecting the preservation of their contents. These are first, the ordinary Aberdeen process; second, the steam retort process ; third, the chloride of calcium process ; and fourth, Jones's patent vacuum process. " The older, or ordinary Aberdeen process," says the authority to whom we are indebted for the greater part of our infoi-mation on this subject, " is carried out as follows : The raw meat, with or without a small quantity of fluid, is placed in tins, which are soldered down perfectly aii'-tight. They are let down on iron frames, or ' gridirons,' by means of pulleys into baths of boiling water, raised to a higher temperature by the addition of salt, and kept there for a certain time, according to the size of the tins ; the first bath of a six-pound tin, for instance, requiring two hours and a half. At the expiration of this time they are removed, and jjlaced on a table near the bath, and the expanded air and vapour are let out through a minute aperture in the lid of the tin. This is done by one of the workmen touching with a hot iron the small piece of solder placed over the aperture, or ' pin-hole,' originally made in the lid. The steam at once rushes out, but within a few seconds another workman follows, and again solders down the ' pin-hole.' This part of the process is, in the vernacular, called ' brogging.' The tins are then returned to the boiHng brine for the same time as before, when they are again ' brogged.' Once more they are returned to the bath, and afterwards withdrawn, and stood to cool, and the process is complete. It may be here mentioned that some of the beef and mutton is partially baked or roasted before being placed in the tins, and these are labelled as ' roast ' beef or mutton, as distiaguished from the boiled, though the difference, practically, when tasted, is very slight. " The steam retort process, as adopted by Messrs. Hogarth, who have by it preserved from time to time a large quantity of meat for our Government at tlie Deptford Victualling Yard, consists in placing the tins, with the ' pin-hole ' open, in what may be called a steam-tight retort, into which steam is allowed to pass, producing a pressure of something like 230 degrees. After an horn- and a half or two hours, they are taken out, and the ' pin-hole ' soldered down. They are then placed in the retort for an hour or an hour and a half, at a temperature of about 240 degrees, and then taken out and cooled. " The chloride of calcium process consists in placing the tins, with the ' pin-hole ' open, to about one-half or two-thirds their depth in a bath of solution of chloiide of _ calcium, by which a temperature may be gained of from 260 to 270 degrees. This temperature is only gradually arrived at, and for tlu-ee or four hours the steam escapes from the tins at the ' pin-holes.' The tins are then soldered down, but are continued in this bath for a further period before they are taken out to cool. In carrying out the above briefly-described processes, manufactiu-ers may vars' a little in details, some using a higher temperature than PBE (651 ) PRE others, 01" not subjecting the tins for so long a period to the hot baths, or modifying the operation of 'brogging,' or introducing some other slight modifications which do not really affect the main principle of these methods of preservation by heat. "The chief feature of the patent vacuum process of Mr. Jones is that each tin, as it stands in the hot bath, is connected by a tube with a vacuum chamber, and that the steam and moisture are from time to time suddenly di-a-s Ti off from the tin by turning a tap connected with the chamber. The advantage of this process is that a vacuum is created in the tins more quickly than by the other heat processes, and thus the necessity of overcooking their contents, as in the other methods, in order to obtain a perfect vacuum, is to a great extent obviated, and the meat turns out more solid. This comparative complication, however, sf Jones's process, and the difEculty in its manipulation, coupled with the fact that the weight of the contents of the tins is so greatly reduced by the absorbtion of the moisture, have militated against the adoption of the patent by meat-preservers generally, though many of them fully acknowledge its superiority to other methods in the food preserved by it. " Such are the several processes, differing somewhat in detail, but substantially the same in principle, by which preserving by heat is effected. It is by one or other of these, with certain trifling modifications adopted by this or that manufacturer, that almost all the sohd meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, soups, stews, the variety of ' odds and ends,' such as kidneys, tripe, sausages, minced meat, and the several * made dishes,' both in this country and abroad, are preserved ; and it is by heat alone that it can fairly be said the food- preservation question has been solved, and then only in a certain modified sense. By all the above heat methods, however, preservation simply as preservation is perfect. As long as the tin or other receptacle in which meat, or any other substance, has been successfully preserved by the creation of a perfect vacuum, remains sound and air-tight, so long will its contents remain sound also. Tins, with the meat perfectly good in them, though preserved nearly fifty years ago, are still in existence. At the London Exhibitions of 18.51, 1862, and 1863, tins of meat which had been put up from twenty-five to forty years before were exhibited and tested, and were found perfectly sound. Stores of preserved meat, &c., in tins, have been left in the Arctic regions for years, annually exposed to a temperature of 92 degrees below, and 80 degrees above zero. They have been brought back to this country, and the contents of the tins found to be as sound as the day they were put up. As a matter, then, of mere preservation, the heat processes are an unquestionable success, and by their agency Ave have in this country been able to obtain a large supply of sound, edible, and cheap beef and mutton from the very ends of the earth." Preserved meat in tins comes to this country from Australia, New Zealand, and South America. It has failed to attain that popularity which was anticipated at first, though the con sumption, it cannot be denied, is very considerable. One of the chief reasons for receiving little notice at the hands of some people is its overcooked state. "With all its imperfections, however," says one writer, " we hold it might bo much more widely used than it is ; for even, if it is admitted that, mouthful for mouthful, it is of less nutritive value than butcher's meat, yet the latter, after the deductions in weight for cooking and bono, costs really about twice as much as the preserved meat." The heat process has been applied with considerable success to the preservation of fish ; but this, however, is inclined to grow soft and pulpy after being some time in the tins. It should be eaten within a reasonable period of its preservation. Vegetables and fruit have also been subjected to the heat process, and are well worthy of attention. Preserved Fruit in Pastry. Preserved fruits ought not to be baked long; indeed, those that have been preserved with their full proportion of sugar require no baking. Bake the crust in a tin shape, and add the fruit afterwards ; or put the fruit in a small dish or tart pan, and bake the covers on a tin, cut according to taste. Preserved Fruit, Omelet of (a French recipe). Beat the whites and yolks of six eggs separately; add a little zest of lemon to the latter; then mix the two together, beating them well, vv-ith a little cream, and two table-spoonfuls of apple maimalade, apricot, gooseberry, or any fruit you have. Pour it into the pan ; sugar it when in the pan ; turn it topsy-turvy into a plate; put it on a dish, cover the surface thickly with powdered sugar, and brown it with the salamander. A. Von Kochhcim. Preserved Milk. The value of preserved milk is acknowledged by thousands of households in which no other form of milk is used. The history of this article is soon told. For many years the only sort of preserved milk was what was called desiccated milk, but it never was regarded with much favour ; the process by which it was obtained destroyed some of the essential constituents of the original substance, and thus lessenned its nutritive value. ' ' The method of condensing and preserving the milk is substantially the same at all the manufactories. The writer of this article," says a popular author, " has watched the process from beginning to end, on more than one occasion, both at Aylesbury and iliddlewdch ; it may be thus described : Steam is got up about six in the moi-ning, and the farmers who live %vithin one to ten miles of the factory begin to deliver their millc about seven o'clock, and it is nearly nine before the last ariives. The milk is emptied at once from the large tin cans generallj- used in the trade into a trough, which conducts it through sieves into a large tank, holding about eight hundi'cd gallons, in the department where the first part of the process takes place. From this tank it is drawn into large open metal cylinders, which are slung up by a crane, and placed in a hot water bath, in large tanks, somewhat after the PRE ( 652 ) PRE manner of the tins of meat in the chloride of calcium process, as adopted in the preservation of meat. After remaining in the Lath some time, they arc again lifted by the cranes, and emptied into large open funuel-shaped vats, whence the hot milk is di-awn up, thi-ough a pipe in the centre, into the condensmg-pans on the upper tioor. Sugar having been mixed with it, solely, let it be remarked, for the purpose of preserving it, it remains in these pans, subject to a somewhat low heat, for two or thi'ee hours, while the evaporation of the water is taking place, and the milk is gradually becoming condensed. When this part of the process, which may be watched thi-ough the glass window of the condenser, is completed, the milk, now about the consistency of liquid honey, returns by a pipe into a lower room, and is received again into the open cylinders, wliich are swung into the central tanks this time filled with cold water for the purpose of cooling. The regulation of the temperature during the whole of these processes is a matter of the greatest nicety, and_ of the utmost importance in securing success.' After cooling the condensed milk, it is taken to the ' filling room,' and run into the tins, which are at once soldered up, and packed in cases ready to be sent to their different destinations. The condensed milk gradually thickens in the tins, becoming slightly more consistent up to five or six months, after which it remains of the same consistency, and will continue sound and good as long as the tin remains perfect. " It will thus be seen that the condensed milk is simply natural cows' milk, from which a certain proportion of water has been abstracted, and to which a certain quantity of sugar has been added. Speaking in roimd numbers, it may be said that of cows' milk 85 per cent is water, but, as has been demonstrated by e -idence given at various prosecutions under the ? Adulteration of Food Act ' dm-ing the last few years, the relative proportion of water and solid matter will vary according to the variation of the breed of cattle, their age, pasturage, food, climate, and the seasons of the year. Ordinary milk, according to Professor Wankljna, consists of the following proportions: water, 87" 19; and solids, 12-81 = 100. Condensed milk, according to Baron von Liebig, shows water, 22-44-, solids, 77-56= 100. The process of condensing, or, as it might be called, cvaporising milk eliminates the greater part of the water ; and the further analysis of the condensed milk shows that the caseine, butterous or fat, and other soHd or nutritive particles remain intact in their original form. Thus we have an article which is in reality pure milk with the addition of a little sugar in order to preserve it, and not an article made row* milk. Any introduction of a foreign substance, in the way of adulteration, would at once cause the milk to decompose, and we believe we are quite correct in saying that no attempt has ever been made to adulterate this article. When the contents of a tin are found to be unsound, the cause ic to be sought in the failure In making a particular batch of milk always a most delicate operation owing to which the external air has been admitted. Baron Liebig, in his recorded analysis of the Swiss milk, says, ' It consists of nothing but cows' milk and the best refined sugar, and possesses all the properties and qualities of a perfectly pme milk ; ' and Dr. Hassall and other eminent analysts certify to the same effect. But it is in the power of any one to test the condensed milk without the aid of any chemical appliances. If sufiicient water is added to the condensed milk to bring it back to its original state i.e., to re-estabUsh the oi-iginal proportion between the water and other constituents, cream will rise from it in the ordinary way ; only it must be stood in open flat vessels, and not in high glass columns, called ' graduated test tubes,' because the sugar to some extent prevents the cream readily rising. Again, if the condensed milk, mixed with the proper proportion of water, be raised to a temperatui-e of 70 degrees, it wiU churn into butter like ordinary milk. " Each one-pound tin represents the condensation of about tw? quarts to five pints of crude milk, and therefore will bear so much water added to it as to bring it back to its original condition and bulk. In each tin there is about four oimces of the best refined sugar. Now, putting the value of the tin at one penny, and the milk at tenpence, we get for sevenpence or eightpence what otherwise would cost us from elevenpence to one shilling, simply b"ecause the manufacturers in country districts can obtain the milk at about twopence per quart. Of the convenience of the article it is hardly necessary to speak. It is invaluable for travellers bj' land and sea. Nor is it less convenient as an article for ordinary household consumption, while the certainty of its genuineness adds much to its value. It can be used for anjpurpose for which ordinary milk and sugar are used for puddings, custards, and other culinary requirements ; it is admirably adapted for eating with fruit tarts, as Devonshire cream, and with the usual ingredients makes capital salad-dressing. Less than a tea-spoonful, without water, is sufiicient for a cup of tea, while four or five times that quantity will make a basin of sweet bread and milk for a child. It is almost impossible to exaggerate the value of this milk for infants and cliildi-en, especially dm-ing the prevalence of infantile diarrha-a, which, in the opinion of the majority of medical men, is to be attributed to the badness of the milk supplied to the poor in large centres of population." Preserve or Jam Omelet. Beat thoroughly the yolks of six eggs. Add three ounces of sugar, and if any flavouring is added be careful that it hai-monises with the jam that is to be used. A strawberry omelet may be flavoured with orange-flower water, an apple-mai-malade omelet with gi-ated lemonrind. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and just before the omelet is poured into the pan mix them with the rest. Dissolve two ounces of butter in the omelet-pan, pour in the mixture, and fry the omelet in the usual way {s 'e Omelet). Before folding it, lay two or three table-spoonfuls of jam in the centre. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top, candy by holding over it a salamander or red-hot fire-shovel, and serve immediately before the omelet can fall. PRE ( 6J3 ) PRE Time, four to six minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for two or three persons. Preserves, Fruit. Home-made jam is both a convenience and a luxury. When well and carefully made it is not only superior to that which is usually offered for sale, but very much more economical also, and no store-closet can be said to be well filled which does not boast a goodly show of neatly-labelled jars of preserves. In making jam, the first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will then possess its finest flavour. The best sugar is the cheapest ; indeed, there is no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality or necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the jam will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a proportion of sugar will destroy the natural flavour of the fruit, and in all probability make the jam candy. The sugar should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must depend in every instance on the nature of the fruit, and will be found in the several recipes throughout this work. Fruit is generally boiled in a brass or copper pan uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place the pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the jam burn to the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed upon a stove-plate, it should be hung a little distance above the fire. Glass jars are much the best for jam, as through them the condition of the fruit can be observed. Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs of either mould or fermentation, it should be boiled over again. The best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of jjaper the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over the top a piece of wi-iting-paper or tissue paper which has been dipped in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When di-y, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The strict economist may use gum dissolved in water instead of white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. Jam should be stored in a cool dry place, but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency to make the fruit go mouldy, and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but the generally-approved plan is to let the fruit grow cold before covering it. In making jam, continual watchfulness is required, as the result of five minutes' inattention may be loss and disappointment. There are other ways of preserving fruit besides making it into jam, such as drying, bottling, and candpng. The recipes for these processes will be given in their proper places. Eecipes for the following preserves will be found under their respective headings : Almack's Apples Apples for Winter Use Apricots in Jelly Apricots, Whole or IN Halves Barberries Beetroot Biffins Black Currant Cherries Cherries in Syrup Cherries, Morella Cranberries Cucumbers Damsons Eggs Figs Ginger Ginger, Imitation Golden Pippins Gooseberries, Green, as Hops Gooseberries, Green, Whole Grapes Grapes in Brandy Greengages, Dry Greengages in Syrup Jargonelle Pears Lemon Juice Lemon Peel Lettuce Stalks Limes Magnum Bonum Plt'ms Melon Mulberries Nectarines Orange Plums Oranges, Whole Oranges, Whole, Carved Peaches in Brandy Peaches, Wholh Pears Pears, Red Plums Pumpkin Quinces Rhubarb Siberian Crabs Strawberries Strawberries in Wine Tomatoes Truffles Water Melon Rind Windsor Beans Preserving Pans are used for boiling sugar and sp-ups. They are usually made of copper, and require a well-regulated heat, for which charcoal stoves and hot plates are very convenient. Pressed Beef. Take any number of pounds of the brisket of beef, as lean as can be obtained, and nicely salted. The beef may be bought salted of the butcher, or it may be salted at home. To do this, dissolve a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre in a little water, and mix with it two pounds of common salt and half a pound of moist sugar. Rub this pickle into the meat every morning for eight days, and turn it over each day. Take it from the pan, drain, and bone it. The butcher will do this if desired. Put it into a saucepan with as much quickly-boiling water as will cover it, and put with it an onion stuck with two cloves, a large carrot, and a bay-leaf. Let the water boil up again, skim carefully, then draw the saucepan quite to the side of the fire, and simmer the meat as gently as possible till it is done enough. Lift the saucepan quite away from the fire, and leave the meat in the liquor for half an hour. Take it out carefully, drain it, place it between two flat dishes, and put a hea\'y weight on the top. Let it remain until the next day. Take off the weight, and glaze the beef. The easiest way of doing this is to buy a quarter of a pound of glaze of the grocer. This is sold in skins like sausages, and may be bought for 8d. or 9d. Peel the skin from an inch of this glaze, and put it into a jar with a table-spoonful of cold water. Place the jar in a saucepan with about two inches of boiling water, and let it steam until the glaze is dissolved. The water in the saucepan must not be allowed to flow over into the jar. Take an PHI (654) PRI ordinary' gum brush which has been soaked in hot water to make it soft, and with it cover the surface of the meat entirely \?ith the dissolved glaze. It ought to be laid lightly on rather than brushed on, so as not to show the marks of the brush. When one coating of glaze is quite stiff, give the meat a second one, and, if Hked, a third. Place the meat on a dish, garnish with parsley, and it is ready for serving. Time to simmer the meat, half an hour per pound from the time the water .boils after the meat is put in. Probable cost, 9d. or lOd. per pound. Prickly Pear, or Indian Fig TMs fruit is in the form of a fig or pear, with clusters of small spines on the skin, which enclose a fleshy pulp of a red or purple colour, and an agreeable subacid flavour. The plant which produces it is a native of Virginia and BarbarJ The prickly pear is sent to the dessert in the West Indies. In countries where the fruit abounds it is considered very wholesome, and though the taste is not agreeable to all persons till they have eaten of it several times, yet they soon become very fond of it. It is now naturalised in many parts of the south of Europe, and north of Africa, and in other warm countries. The prickly pear in some coimtries rs extensively employed as an article of diet. It is imported into Britain to a small extent from the Mediterranean. In the south of England the plant grows in the open air, and occasionally ripens its fruit. Prince Consort's Pudding. Eub three or four large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a small lemon until all the yellow part is taken off, then crush them to powder with a little additional sugar to make up the weight to two ounces. Grate finely six ounces of stale sponge cake, pour over it half a pint of boiling milk or cream, and add the flavoured sugar and a pinch of salt. Let the crumbs eeak until the milk is cold, then beat the mixture with a fork, and stir into it the yolks of four eggs and the white of one well whisked. Butter a mould thickly, and flour it, ornament the inside with dried fruit, pour in the mixtm-e, and tie it over with oiled paper. Put it on a plate turned upside down in a saucepan, and let there be two or thi-ee inches of boiling water round it ; the water must not come so high as to flow into the pudding.. When it is done enough, turn it out, and send jam and a good custard to table - vith it, or a sauce prepared as follows: Pour a quarter of a pint of boiling milk over a tea-spoonful of arrowroot which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little boiHng milk. Sweeten it, and stir it over the fire for two or thi-ee minutes. Pour it out, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of any kind of fruit jelly, either red-currant, raspbeiTv, or cherry. The jelly should have been previously dissolved till it is in a liquid state . The sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen. Time to steam the pudding, about thi-ee-quartei's of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d., if made with milk, and exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prince Consort's Pudding (another way). Grumble six ounces of stale sponge cake. Poor over them milk flavoured with almonds prepared as follows : Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter ones. Simmer them softly for half an hour in a quarter of a pint of milk, then pound them to a paste, and mix them again with the milk. Add to the mixture a pinch of salt, two ounces of powdered sugar, the yolks of four and the white of one egg, three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and two of brandy. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then pour the pudding into a buttered mould, steam, and serve according to the directions given in the previous recipe. Time to steam, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Suflicient for throe or four persons. Prince Frederick's Pudding. Eub two or three limips of sugar upon the rind of a fresh lemon until all the yellow part is taken off. Crush it to powder with additional sugar to make up the weight to four ounces. Beat separately the yolks and whites of six eggs, and, when they are thoroughly whisked, put them together, and add the flavoured sugar and the strained juice of the lemon. Butter a tin mould, and half fill it with the mixture. Bake in a quick oven. Serve immediately before the pudding has time to fall. A sauce prepared as follows may be sent to table with it : Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and mix with them gradually a glassful of sherry or madeira. Add a little sugar which has been rubbed ujjon lemon-rind and powdered. Pour the mixtm-e into a saucepan, and stir it briskly over the fire until it is well frothed and very hot ; it must not boil. Pour it round the pudding, and serve. Time to bake the pudding, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prince of Wales's Ketchup. Take some ripe elderberries, and strip off the stalks. Fill a jar with the fruit, pom- over it as much boiling vinegar as the jar will hold ; put it in a cool oven, and let it remain there aU night. Strain the liquid, and put with every pint half a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade of mace, four shallots, a tea-spoonfid of peppercorns, a dozen cloves, and two ounces of anchovies. Boil the liquid until the anchovies are dissolved, and when it is quite cold strain it, and bottle for use. This ketchup is chiefly used for fish. Prince's Metal, or Britannia Metal, ITtensils of. One great advantage belonging to Prince's metal is that it takes a high polish, and docs not tarnish easily. When kept perfectly bright it looks well, far excelling pe \-ter, and approaching in lustre to silver. It is not easily acted upon by acids, and is perfectly safe. One of the most valuable uses to which Britannia metal is applied is in themaking of spoons, which are not only brighter and more pleasing to the eye than those of pewter, but less apt to bend. Princes' Pudding. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add a table-spoonful of sifted sugar and the well- whisked yolks of thi-ee and the white of one egg. Crush an ounce and a half of macaroons to powder. Stir this into the pudding, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Beat the puddmg for some minutes, pour it into a well-buttered PRI ( 655 ) PBO tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn it out before serving, and garnish with apricot or strawberry jam. This pudding may be served either hot or cold. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Princes' Sauce for Broiled Pish. and Salads. Take a small handful of tarragon-leaves, burnet, chervil, and chives. Rinse them, throw them into boiling water, and let them boil gently for a few minutes ; pour off the water, and squeeze them in a cloth. Put them in a mortar with three anchovies which have been washed, dried, and freed from bone and skin, the yolks of tlireo hard-boiled eggs, a dessertspoonful of dry mustard, and a dessert-spoonful of capers. Put these ingredients in a mortar, poimd them well, and add very gradually two raw yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, and a quarter of a pint of tarragon vinegar. liub the sauce through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use. Sufficient for a little more than half a pint. Princes' Soup. Take half a d.ozen turnips, and with a vegetable cutter cut them into small balls the size of a marble. Put them into a stewpan with as much clear veal stock as will cover them, and let them simmer till tender; then pour over them a pint and a half of additional stock, clear and bright, let it boil, and pour it into the tureen. Cut a slice or two from a stale loaf less than a quarter of an inch thick. Have these cut in rounds about threequarters of an inch in diameter. Throw them into a saute pan with about an ounce of butter, and shake them over the fire till they are brightly browned. Drain from the fat, and place them on blotting-papei to absorb the grease. Send them to table with the soup, and serve the crusts either on a separate dish or in the tureen. Time, an horn- and a half. Probable cost of turnips, 4d. to 6d. a bunch. Sufficient for three or four persons. Properties, Nutritive, &c., of Food. Several substances go to constitute the bodies of men and animals. Some of these substances from their containing nitrogen are called nitrof cfioHs, others being destitute of that principle are termed no -nitro( c oiis; besides these there are mineral constituents, and ivater. Of the nitrogenous substances of the animal body, the chief are fibrine, met with in the bone and muscle ; albumen and globulino, found in the blood ; and gelatine, in the bones, tendons, and ligaments. The principal non-nitrogenous constituent is fat. Vegetables have a composition in the main resembling that of animals. They also contain nitrogenous substances, though usually in sTnallcr amounts, and fat in them is represented for the most part by starch and sugar. In some exceptional cases, however in the seeds, for example, of various plants fat or oil is met with. " The nitrogenous elements of the human body," says the author of a valuable article on this subject in " Food, "Water, and Air," " are capable, under some circumstances, of furnishing both fat and sugar ; thus, there is evidence to show that the fatty part of milk and the sugar of diabetes are thence derived, at least to some extent. Again, starch and sugar are sometimes transformed into fat, but the greater part of the fat of the body is derived from that contained in the food. " Notwithstanding this partial and occasional formation of fat from the nitrogenous, starchy, and saccharine elements of the food, yet each separate class is needed to sustain the body in a state of health. Thus, perfect health cannot bo maintained for any length of time on nitrogenous food alone, even with water and the mineral constituents ; and although it may be supported for a longer period on such food combined with fat, yet, for perfect health, the albuminates, fat, and the carbo-hydrates, as sugar and starch, are all necessary, though how the latter act in nutrition ie not yet fully understood, since they do not enter into the composition of the tissues like the others. Further, it should be clearly understood that excess of lean meat increases the oxidation of the fat, thus tending to the reduction of obesity; excess of the carbo-hydrates acts in the same way. "Now, these several nitrogenous and nonnitrogenous constituents of the feod are constantly imdergoing change and destruction in ministering to the several necessities of the living animal organisation as the growth, substance, and waste of the body, its heat, electricity, and muscular force ; and hence the necessity for a frequent supply of food. " The mineral constituents of the body arc not less necessary than the albuminates, fat, and the carbo-hydrates, and equally require to bo renewed in the food consumed. Thus, sulphur and phosphorus are constantly present, combined chiefly with the albuminates. Phosphate of lime is found principally in the bones, teeth, and cells and tissues ; phosphate of potash in the tissues and cells ; chloride of sodium in the hquids ; iron in the blood ; and, lastly, carbonic acid, lactic, tartaric, acetic, and some other acids, which are converted in the system into carbonic acid, are requisite to maintain the alkalinity of the body, the loss of which gives rise to scurvy. "Again, the imbibition of a large quantity of water daily is likewise a necessity, in order to endow many of the constituents of the food especially the albuminates with certain physical jiroperties, to render them plastic, soluble, or the more readily reducible to a state of solution ; thus aiding absorption, nutrition, and elimination." There is thus, we see, between the composition of the body and the food consumed, whether animal or vegetable, the closest possible resemblance. Having now seen what kinds of food are needed to keep the body in health, we come to look at the quantities required. The quantities of course vary according to age, weight, and muscular exertion, but it has been determined, by numerous independent inquiries, that the food daily consumed by an adult man of average weight 140 pounds in moderate work, should contain about the following quantities of the several classes of food, the figures given being PRO ( 656 ) PRO those of Molesholt, quoted by Parkes in his valuable work on " Practical Hygiene." Di-y Food. Ounces Nitrogen. Carbon, and Grains. Grains. Grains. Albuminous substances 4-587 317-0 1073-6 Fatty substances . . 2-964 none 1024-4 Carbo-Hydrates . . 14-257 none 2769-4 Salts 1-058 . 22-866 " One ounce of dry albuminate contains 69 grains of nitrogen, and 234 of carbon ; one ounce of dry fat, 345-6 grains of carbon, and the same weight of either of the carbo-hydrates ; starch or sugar, 194-2 grains; or 100 grains of albuminates contain 15-8 of nitrogen, and 53- 5 ?oi carbon ; fat, 79 grains of carbon ; and starch and sugar, 44-4 grains. " But water, to the e.xtent of between fifty and sixty-nine per cent., is contained in the food consimied, raising the amount to about forty ounces." Now, nearly the whole of the nitrogen and carbon contained in the chief articles of our food may be thus divided and distributed : T T. AT J. S 16 oz. less one-fifth bone. Lean Eaw Meat j i4.4 ,ooked, about 8 oz. Fat of Meat . . . . oz. Egg 2 ? Cheese 1 + Butter 1 ? Bread 18 ? Potatoes 16 ? Other Vegetables . . . 8 ? Milk 2 ? Sugar I ji Having thus arrived approximately at the quality and quantity of the several kinds of food required by an adiflt man of average size and weight, and in moderate work, it next becomes important to ascertain how each person may calculate for himself, and so ascertain the nutritive quality of his own or any other dietary. This important object may be accomplished by the help of the following table from the work of Dr. Parkes, before quoted : Table fok Calculating Diets. . ? . Carbo t?-- natT' ' t - ?y- Salt. ¦' *? - drates. Lean Raw Meat, )?5.Q j,. g. _ .g bone-tree . . ) Fattened Beef ) (Gilbert and 63-0 14-0 19-0 3-7 Lawes) ) Eoast Meat (no \ dripping be P wiYi'U -O 27-6 15-45 - 2-95 Kanke (boiled, assumed to be the same) . . Bread. . . . 400 8-0 1-5 49-2 1-3 Flour .... lo-O 11-0 2-0 70-3 1-7 Biscuit . . . 8-0 15-6 1-3 73-4 1-7 Rice .... 10-0 5-0 0-8 83-2 0-5 BTbm) ''"Ijl -O 16-0 6-8 63-2 2-0 OaWl(Lethe- j .. 12-6 6-6 63-0 3-0 Water. Albumi nates. Fats. Carbo Hy. drates. Salt. Maize (Poggiale) 13-5 10-0 6.7 64-5 1-4 Peas .... lo-O 22-0 2-0 53-0 2-4 Potatoes . . . 74-0 1-5 0-1 23-4 10 Carrots, all core excluded . . ' 85-0 0-6 0-25 8-4 0-7 Cabbage . . . 91-0 0-2 0-5 5-8 0-7 Butter . . . 6-0 0-3 0-91 2-7 Eggs, less 10 1 per cent, for 73-0 13-5 11-6 1-0 shell . . . ' Cheese . . . 36-8 33-5 24-3 5-4 Milk (specific 86-7 4-0 3-7 5-0 0-6 gi-avity, 1030) Milk (specific 90-0 3-0 2-5 3-9 0-5 gravity, 1026) Sugar . . . 3-0 96-5 0-5 "The use of the above table is exceedingly simple. The quantity by weight of any of the articles enumerated being known, the amounts of the albuminates, fats, and carbo-hydrates are easily calculated by a simple rule-of- three sum. Thus, supposing the allowance is twelve ounces of meat, one-fifth must be deducted for bone, the water in the remaining 9-6 ounces will be ascertained as follows 7 5 X 9- 6. 100 7-2, and so on for the other constituents." The following tables, for which we are indebted to the Catalogue of the Bethnal Green Food Collection, will be found highly interesting. In the first we have the results of actual experiments made to discover the maximum amount of force produced by one pound of various ai-ticles of food when oxidised in the body :? Name of Food. foot high. Cod-liver Oil . . 5-649 Beef Fat . 5-626 Butter .... . 4-507 Cocoa-nibs . 4-251 Cheshire Cheese . 2-704 Oatmeal . 2-439 Arrowroot . 2-427 Flour . . 2-383 Pea-meal . 2-341 Ground Rice . . 2-330 Gelatine . 2-270 Lump Sugar . . 2-077 Yolk of Egg . . 2-051 Grape Sugar . ? 2-033 Hard-boiled egg . . 1-415 Bi-ead-crumb . . 1-333 The Lean of Boiled Han . 1-041 Mackerel . 1000 The Leon of Beef . . 0-885 The Lean of Veal . . 0-726 Guiness's Stout . 0-665 Potatoes . . C-618 Whiting . 0-491 Bass's Ale . 0-480 Apples . . 0-400 Milk . . 0-390 Miite of Egg . 0-357 Carrots . . 0-322 Cabbages . 0-261 The maximum amount of ncchnnical ivork which one pound of each of the ? ibove substances can enable a man to perfo rm Ce xternal work) is RO ( Go7 ) PRO about onc-tiftli of the amount mentioned in the above table. "It is not to be understood from this," say the compilers of the Catalogue, "that taking one pound of cod-liver oil would enable a man to lift one-fifth of 5,649 tons (that is, 1,130 tons) one foot off the ground. What is meant is that that is the total mechanical work which the combustion in the body of one pound of the oil is capable of producing outside the body, supposing its effect to be wholly expended in the production of this mechanical work without any av.vste. Moreover, this statement of the amount of work in tons lifted one foot does not take time at all into account. It simply reckons the total work which it is possible to got out of the combustion of one pound of cod-liver oil, no matter how long it may take to do it." The two following tables illustrate the application of the above data, the first giving the weight and cost (1866) of various articles of food required to be oxidised in the body in order to raise 140 lbs. to the height of 10,000 feet. External Work = i Actual Energy. Weight in lbs. Price Name of Food. required. per lb. Cost. Cheshire Cheese Mo6 s. d. 10 s. (I. IH Potatoes . 5-068 1 ?5} Apples 7-815 H llf Oatmeal . 1-281 n H Flour 1-311 n 3f Pea-meal . 1-335 H 4 Ground Rice 1-341 ;o 4 H Arrowroot 1-287 1 1 U Bread 2-345 2 4t Lean Beef 3-532 1 3 6, Lean Veal 4-300 1 3 Lean Ham, Boiled 3-001 1 6 6 Mackerel . 3-124 8 1 Whiting . White of Egg . Hard-boiled Egg 6-369 . 8-745 . 2-209 1 4 6 6 It Isinglass . MUk 1-377 . 8-021 16 5d. per qt. 22 t Carrots . . 9-685 U n Cabbages . Cocoa-nibs 12-020 0-735 1 1 6 0. 1 Butter . 0-693 1 6 O.i Beef Fat . 0-555 10 5.4 Cod-liver Oil . 0-553 3 6 111 Lump Sugar . Commercial Grape Sugar . ? . Bass's Pale Alt (bottled) Guiness's Stout 1-505 } 1-537 j 9 bot. 6i ,, 6 u \ lOd. i 1 p. bot. 1 Do. 5 3 bh 6 7* Our last table shows the weight of various ARTICLES OF FOOD required to sustain respiration and CIRCULATION in the body of an average man during twenty-four hours. Cheshire Cheese . . ' . .3-0 Potatoes 13-4 Apples 20-7 Oatmeal 3-4 Flour 3-5 Pea-meal . . ... 3-5 Name of Food. . Weight m Ounces. Ground Rice 3-6 Arrowroot 3-4 Bread 6-4 Lean Beef 93 Lean Veal 11-4 Lean Ham, Boiled . . . .7-9 Mackerel 8-3 Whiting 16-8 White of Egg 23-1 Hard-boiled Egg .... 5-8 Gelatine 3-6 Milk 21-2 Carrots 25-6 Cabbage ...... 31-8 Cocoa-nibs 1-9 Butter - 1-8 Cod-liver Oil 1-5 Lump Sugar 3'9 Commercial Grape Sugar . . .4-0 All food is either of animal or vegetable origin. The former seems more allied to our nature, and is most easily assimilated to our nourishment ; the latter, though digested with more difficulty, is the foundation of the former, as vegetables are the nourishment of animals, and all food is therefore properly derived from this source. The diet best suited to preserve a perfect state of health appears to be a combination of animal and vegetable food. There are few, says a medical authority, who subsist entirely on vegetables, and of these few the constitutions have generally inferior stamina. In hot climates a vegetable diet may be carried to a great extent without injury ; while, on the other hand, some northern nations live almost entirely on animal food, and in a very cold atmosphere this may be indulged beyond what would otherwise be safe for the health of the body, so that a mixture of vegetable and animal nourishment appears best fitted for the health of mankind in general. In the matter of diet we are liable to commit errors, both as regards its quantity and quality. The error in the quantity is ordinarily the worse of the two. It should never be forgotten that we are not nourished, as Dr. Abernethy used to say, by what we eat, but by what we digest. Nature is easily satisfied, and is usually best provided for when we do not intrude upon her more than a small and moderate quantity of the most digestible animal and vegetable food, at regular intervals of four hours through the day. As to the quantity of food to be actually taken that must be regulated altogether by the appetite, the supply required, and the condition of health of the individual. The natural consequence of repletion is satiety, and before this takes place the stomach itself gives timely warning. The weak, delicate, and sedentary require less food than the strong, robust, and active ; infants need less than children, and children than adults. " There can be no doubt," remarks Dr. Graham, " that the majority of the more respectable inhabitants of Great Britain eat and drink twice as much as is neces-sai-j- and beneficial ; and this is nearly equally "true of the same class of persons in most of the other PRO ( 658 ) PRO nations of Europe. It is a remarkable fact that almost all those who have lived to a great age have uniformly observed a very temperate diet, and in numerous instances of longevity it has been scanty and coarse." In regard to the quality of our food, it ought to be varied in much the same way as the quantity. A keen and healthy appetite calls for a daily supply of animal and other solid food, whilst the patient with a deficient and capricious appetite will often derive most benefit from a vegetable diet. The sedentary and inactive, and those whose constitutions arc naturally delicate, do not require such nourishing food as those of a strong robust frame, and others who are dailj' engaged in laborious work in the open air. Children need more animal food than infants, adults than children, men than women. '? It may be safely said that the flesh of fullgrown animals is much more digestible and nutritious than that of their young, and as it respects the larger animals, this rule is without an exception. Beef and mutton, for example, are more easily digested and more wholesome than veal or lamb ; yet it may be proper sometimes to give the preference to the latter in the case of patients who are convalescent from acute diseases, because they are less likely directly to excite heat or feverishness. Even here, however, it will bo found that where the stomach of the patient is very delicate and irritable, a little tender beef or mutton will produce much less heat and general uneasiness than either ?eal or lamb, particularly the former. It may also be assumed, as a general rule, in chronic diseases and in health, that a solid diet is more digestible and better than a fluid one. In acute diseases it is the reverse. AU salted meats are with difficulty digested, and are unwholesome. Generally speaking, the flesh of tame animals is more wholesome than that of wild animals, the flesh of quadrupeds than birds, and that of birds than fishes." "There are," says Dr. Doran, "upwards of seventeen hundred works extant on the subject of diet and digestion. Sufferers may study the question till thej- are driven mad by doubt and dyspepsia and dift'erences of opinions among the doctors. Fordyce saw no use in the saliva, and Paris maintains that without it digestion is not. But Paris' s book on diet is the safest guide I know for a man who, being dyspeptic, wants to cure himself, or simply to discover the definemcnt of his sufi:erings. On the other hand, every man may find comfort in the reflection that with early hours, abundant exercise, generous diet, but not too much of it, and occupation without which a worse devil than the former enters on possession of the victim dyspepsia cannot assume a chronic form. It may be a casual visitor, but it will be the easiest thing possible to get rid of him.'' About the year 1823 some experiments were made on the subject of digestion by Dr. Beaumont, of Boston, United States, under rather extraordinary circumstances. The result of these experiments is given in the following table, showing the mean time of digestion of various articles of diet : Table Showing the Me.vn Time of Digestion OF THE Different Articles of Diet. Time re Mode of quired for Articles of Diet. Preparation. Digestion. Rice Boiled . h. m. . 1 45 Sago . . . . Ditto . . 1 Tapioca . Ditto . . 2 Barley . Ditto . . 2 Milk . . . . Ditto . . 2 Ditto . . . . Raw . . 2 15 Gelatine Boiled . . 2 30 Pigs' Feet, Soused. Ditto . . 1 Tripe, Soused. Ditto . . 1 Brains . . . . Ditto . . 1 45 Venison Steak Boiled . , 1 35 Spinal Marrow Ditto . . 2 40 Turkey, Domestic . Roasted . 2 30 Ditto, ditto . Boiled . . 2 25 Turkey, Wild Roasted . 2 18 Goose . . . . Ditto . . 2 30 Pig, Sucking . Ditto , . 2 30 Liver, Beef, Fresh . Boiled . . 2 Lamb, Fresh . Ditto . . 2 30 Chicken, Full-grown Fricassee . 2 45 Eggs, Fresh . Hard-boiled . 3 30 Ditto . . . . Soft ditto . 3 Ditto . . . , Fried . . 3 30 Ditto . . . . Roasted . 2 15 Ditto . . . . Raw Ditto, Whipped . Ditto . ! 1 30 Custard Baked . . 2 45 Codfish, Cured, Dry Boiled . . 2 Trout, Salmon, Fresh . Ditto . . 1 30 Ditto, ditto . Fried . . 1 30 Bass, Striped, Fresh Broiled . . 3 Flounder, ditto Fried . . 3 30 Catfish, ditto . Ditto . . 3 30 Sahnon, Salted Boiled . . 4 Oysters, Fresh Raw . . 2 55 Ditto, ditto . Roasted . 3 15 Ditto, ditto . Stewed . . 3 30 Beef, Fresh, Lean, Raw . Roasted . 3 Ditto, ditto, Drv . Ditto . . 3 30 Ditto, ditto. Steak . Broiled. . 3 Ditto, with Salt only . Boiled . . 2 45 Ditto, with Mustard Ditto . . 3 30 Ditto, Fresh, Lean . Fried . . 4 Ditto, Old, Hard, Salted Boiled . . 4 15 Pork, Steak . Broiled . . 3 15 Pork, Fat and Lean Roasted . 5 15 Ditto, recently Salted . Boiled . . 4 30 Ditto, ditto . Fried . . 4 15 Ditto, ditto . Broiled . . 3 15 Ditto, ditto . Raw . 3 Pork, recently Salted . Stewed . . 3 Jlutton. Fresh Roasted . 3 15 Ditto, ditto . Broiled . . 3 Ditto, ditto . Boiled . .3 Veal, Fresh . Broiled . . 4 Ditto, ditto . Fried . . 4 30 Fowls, Domestic . Boiled . . 4 Ditto, ditto . Roasted . 4 Ducks, ditto . Ditto . . 4 Ditto, Wild . Ditto . . 4 30 Suet, Beef, Fresh . Boiled . . 5 3 Ditto, Mutton. Ditto . . 4 30 Butter . . . . Melted . . 3 30 Cheese, Old, Strong Raw . . 3 30 PRO ( 659 ) PRU Time re Mode of quired for Articles of Diet. Preparatior Digestion. h. m. Soup, Beef, Vegetables, and Bread . Boiled . 4 Soup, Marrow-bones Ditto , 4 15 Ditto, Beans . Ditto . 3 Ditto, Barley . Ditto . 1 30 Ditto, Mutton Ditto . 3 30 Green Corn and Beans . Ditto . 3 45 Chicken Soup . Ditto . 3 Oyster ditto . Ditto . 3 30 Hashed Meat and Vege tables . . . . Warmed . 2 30 Sausage, Fresh Broiled . 3 20 Heart, Animal Fried . 4 Tendon . . . . Boiled . 5 30 Cartilage Ditto . 4 15 Aponeurosis . Ditto . 3 Beans, Pod . Ditto . 2 30 Bread, ATieaten, Fresh Baked . 3 30 Ditto, Corn . Ditto . 3 15 Cake, ditto . Ditto . 3 Ditto, Sponge. Ditto . 2 30 Dumpling, Apple . Boiled .30 Apples, Sour and Hard . Eaw . 2 50 Ditto, ditto. Mellow Ditto . 2 Ditto, Sweet ditto . Ditto . 1 30 Parsnips Boiled . 2 30 Carrots, Orange Ditto . 3 15 Beet ... . Ditto . 3 45 Turnips, Flat . Ditto . 3 30 Potatoes, Irish Ditto . 3 30 Ditto, ditto . Roasted . 2 30 Ditto, ditto . Baked . 2 30 Cabbage Head Raw . 2 30 Ditto, with Vinegar Ditto . 2 Ditto, ditto . Boiled . 4 30 From these details, and the whole course of his experiments. Dr. Beaumont drew a number of inferences, of which the following were the most important : " That stimulating condiments are injurious to the healthy stomach." " That the use of ardent spirits always produces disease in the stomach, if persevered in." " That the quantltij of food generally taken is more than the wants of the system require ; and that such excess, if persevered in, generally produces not only functional aberration, but disease of the coats of the stomach." " That bulk as well as nutriment is necessary to the articles of diet." " That the digestibility of aliment does not depend upon the quantity of nutrient principles that it contains." " That gentle exercise facilitates the digestion of food." " That the time required for that purpose is various, depending upon the quantity and quality of the food, state of the stomach, &c. ; but that the time ordinarily reqxaired for the dispersal of a moderate meal of the fibrous parts of meat, with bread, &c., is from thi-ee to three and a half hours." Provencal Potage, Boubillasse. Take any kind of fish, but the best are whiting, dory, haddock, or cod. Put the fish into a stewpan. Put in a frying-pan an onion sliced, a clove of garlic, some parsley finely chopped. a bit of lemon or orange-peel, some salt, pepper, spice, saffron, and a quart of water, along with a little oil. When fried, add the fish, which should be cut in quarters and boned. Stir the potage, and put it on a quick fire for a quarter of an hour till it bubbles. Let it remain now on the fire for five minutes ; add a bit of butter mixed with flour, and serve. Fennel and bay-leaf may be added, if liked. Provenpal Potage, Boubillasse (another way). This way is for mackerel, sardines, herrings, or any other rich fish. Take the fish and cut them in fillets. Put in a stewpan some leeks cut fine. Add some oil, or a little melted butter, then put in the fish, well floured. Let them brown well, turning the fillets during five or six minutes. Add a glassful of water for every* guest who is to partake of the potage, along with an onion, cloves, lemon- peel, pepper, salt, spice, and saffron, dissolved in butter or oil. Boil quickly for a quarter of an hour ; add a roux ; let the potage remain for five minutes at the fire, and then serve as in the last recipe. Provenpale Sauce. Put a spoonful of salad oil into a stewpan with a clove of garlic, a table-spoonful of chopped shallots, and three table-spoonfuls of chopped raw mushrooms. Stir these ingredients over the fire for five minutes, then add a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a glassful of sherry, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and half a blade of mace. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs and garlic, and add two table-spoonfuls more stock, and a little salt if required. Simmer five minutes, carefully skim the sauce, rub it through a fine hair-sieve, heat it again, and serve very hot. A table-spoonful of lemon-juice should be added at the last moment, or, if preferred, three or four ripe tomatoes maj- be boiled in the sauce until they are soft enough to pass through the sieve. Time, haK an hour. Probable cost, imcertain. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Prune Pudding. Wash and stone a pound of prunes. Blanch the kernels, and simmer them with three-quarters of a pint of water, a glassful of port, and a table-spoonful of sugar, till they are quite soft. Line a mould with pieces of the crumb of bread which have been soaked in clarified butter. Pour in the stewed prunes gently, so as not to displace the bread, and add a table-spoonful of maiinalade. Cover the fruit with a layer of bread, tie a piece of buttered paper over the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Or. stew the fruit as above, mix with it haK an ounce of dissolved isinglass, pour it into a mould, and when it is set, turn out, and serve. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Prune Pudding (another way). Beat a tea -cupful of flour to a smooth ] aste with a Little cold milk. Add two well-beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and as much milk as will make a rather thick batter. Wash half a pound of prunes, and simmer them in a little water till they are quite soft. Drain off the liquid, take out the stones, sprinkle a little flour over the prunes, and then stir them into the pudding. Dip a cloth into boiling water, PRU ( 660 PRU wring it well, and di-edge a little flour over it. Pour the pudding into it, and tie it securely, but leave a little room for the pudding to swell. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prune Roly-poly Pudding. Wash and stone a pound of prunes. Blanch the kernels, and put them into a stewpan with the fruit, a table-spoonful of moist sugar, half a pint of water, and a glassful of port. Boil the prunes to a thick paste. Roll out a piece of pastry, such as is used for boiled pudding, a third of an inch thick. Spread the fruit upon it, moisten the edges, and make it into a roll. Fasten the ends securely. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil it quickly till done enough. Send wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, about two hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. SuSicient for five or six persons. Prune Sauce for Puddings. Wash a quarter of a pound of prunes, and simmer them in as much water as will cover them until they are quite soft. Drain and stone them, and blanch the kernels. Put fruit and kernels into a stewpan with the liquid in which they were boiled, a glassful of wine, the strained juice of half a lemon, a small strip of thin lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes, then rub the sauce with the back of a wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. If the pulp is too thick, dilute it with a little water. Time, one hour. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Prunes and Prunelloes. Prunes and I runelloes are a sort of di'ied plums, of which there are many varieties. The finest prunes come to us from France, large quantities being exported from Bordeaux. The best prunes are packed in hampers or baskets made of white osiers, weighing from six to ten pounds each. Prunes, when stewed, form an excellent article of diet for convalescents or persons in delicate health, as they act as gentle laxatives. Prunes, Stewed, for Dessert. Wash the prunes, and let them sualv f .+r an hour in as much water as will cover them. Lift them out, and let the liquid stand a little while, then drain it from the sediment, and put it into a stewpan with a small quantity of sugar, if desired, and a little lemon-rind and cimiamon for flavouring. Stew gently for half an hour. Add as much wine as may be wished port is the most suitable for the purpose and stew twenty minutes longer ; serve cold, in a glass dish. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. Prunes, Tisane of, for Irritation of the Throat. This simple beverage, if sipped in small quantities at intervals, will greatly relieve irritation of the vocal organs. If it is too sweet to be agreeable it may be diluted with water, or even sharpened with strained lemonjuice. Boil half a pound of prunes in a quart of water for three-quarters of an hour, and keep up the quantity of the liquor by adding a little fresh water occasionally. Pour off the liquor, and when cold it is ready for use. Few children will refuse to eat the prunes after they have been boiled. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for a quart of liquor. Prussian Balls. Knead half a pound of flour with half an ounce of fresh yeast and as much milk as will make a stiff dough. Put it into a bowl, throw a warm cloth over it, and set it by the fire to rise. When it is light, mix it up with an ounce and a half of clarified butter, I two well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of I powdered sugar flavoured with lemon-rind, and knead it until it leaves the sides of the bowl in a lump. Make it into little balls, insert inside each one a tea-spoonful of good jam, and close the aperture. Put the balls on a floured paper, and lay this on a tin ; put it in a warm place, and let them rise once more. When light, throw them into hot fat, and fry till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Drain them well, serve on a hot dish, and sift powdered sugar thickly over them. Time, five minutes or more, according to size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prussian Cutlets. Take a pound of lean meat beef, mutton, or veal and two ounces of fat. Cut it into dice, and mix with it a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced onion, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Mix the meat with the seasoning, and chop it again, but not too finely. Divide it into portions the size of an egg, press it well together, and make it up into the shape of cutlets. Stick a little piece of bone in at the naiTOw end, and brush the cutlets over twice with beaten egg. Sprinkle grated bread-crumbs thickly over them, and fry in hot fat over a slow fire till they are brightly browned, then brush them over with glaze. Place them in a circle round a hot dish, and put a mound of hot dressed vegetables in the centre. Send good brown gravy, tomato, Robert, or onion sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the cutlets, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Prussian Soup. Cut two heads of celery into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of di'ipping, two carrots, two turnips, two onions, two leeks, and a pound of potatoes; the vegetables must all be cut up small. Fry until they are soft, which will be in about twenty minutes. Put with them half a pound of lean beef or mutton cut into slices, cover the saucepan closely, let the ingredients steam gently for an hour, and be very careful that they do not burn. Pour over them two quarts of water, and add a pint of split peas soaked for twelve hours or more. Bring the liquor to the point of boiling, and skim carefully. Draw it back, and let it simmer for three hours. Press the vegetables through a colander, season the soup with salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little dried mint ; boil it up again, and serve very hot. The peas may, if PRU (661 ) PUB liked, be omitted, and a little brown thickening may be boiled with the soup. This economical dish is very popular in Prussia, hence its name. Time, five hours or more, according- to the quality of the peas. Probable cost, 4d. a pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Prussienne Charlotte (?6 Charlotte, Prussiennc) . Ptarmigan. The ptarmigan, or white grouse, is found on the sunmiit of mountains, in cold bleak situations, and is keenly sought after by many sportsmen. Its flesh has a peculiar and bitter taste, much relished by epicui-cs. It should be hung as long as possible before being dressed. It is about the same size as the red grouse. Ptarraigan, Roasted. Hang the birds as long as possible. Pluck and di-aw them carefully, and truss like grouse. Baste Uberally, and just before they are done enough flour and froth them nicely. Serve very hot, either on fried bread-crumbs or on buttered toast, and send brown gravy and bread sauce to table with them. Time to roast, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient, two for a dish. Ptarmigan Salad. Take the remains of cold roast ptarmigan, or, if liked, roast a bird specially for the purpose, and in this case let it be slightly under-di-essed. Cut it into neat joints, and lay these aside until wanted. Wash any fresh salad that may be in season in salted water, and dry it carefully by putting it after it has been washed, a small quantity at a time, into a dry napkin, and then taking this up by the four corners and shaking the moisture from it. Put a layer of the salad at the bottom of a dish, lay the inferior joints of the bird upon it, and cover each piece with sauce. Cover these with the remainder of the salad, and lay the rest of the bii-d upon it ; pour sauce over the whole, and serve. The sauce may be made as follows : Beat the yolk of an egg for a minute. Mix with it a large pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shallot, and the same of chopped parsley, tarragon, or cherWl. Stir in, first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, four table- spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and beat the sauce briskly between each addition. Add gradually two table-spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, and set the sauce in a cool place till it is wanted. Before using, mix with it a quarter of a pint of thick cream. The salad should not be ai" mged upon the dish until just before it is wanted. It may be garnished in any way that fancy dictates. It looks very pretty as follows : Place a thin flat rim of butter round the dish on which the salad is to be served. Cut four hard-boiled eggs into half-quarters lengthwise, and stick the pieces upon the butter, placing the yolk and the white alternately to the outside. Arrange round the salad, and restir.g upon the top of the eggs, a sort of trelliswork of beetroot cut into thin slices. Pour the white sauce over the salad, and sprinkle over it half a dozen parsley-leaves broken into small pieces. Serve as soon as possible after the sauce is poured on. A salad garnished in this way would have to be served on a flat dish, and not in a salad-bowl. Time, half an hour to roast the bird. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost of ptarmigans. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. Public Dietaries. For the following details on this subject we are indebted to the "Inventory of the Food Collection" at Bethnal Green Museum, to which we are already under obligation. The experience of nations in the support of persons depending upon public diets, such as the soldier, sailor, pauper, or prisoner, gives data for determining the quantity of flesh-formers and force-producers required for support under different conditions, however varied may be the substances composing the dietaries. It is curious to observe the amount of flesh-formers and of the carbon (charcoal) in the food of soldiers and sailors in diflierent countries. Carbon is the element which chiefly determines the value of the force-producers. As a general rule, men in fighting condition require a daily supply of five or six ounces of flesh-formers and ten ounces of carbon. The English soldier requires, both in this country and in India, five ounces daily of fleshformers in food. This must also contain ten ounces of carbon. The English sailor requires five ounces of flesh-foi-mers in food, and consumes daily ten ounces of carbon. In his salt meat dietary he has nearly six ounces of flesh-foimcrs daily, and twelve ounces of carbon. This may be necessary, from the less digestible nature of the food. The Dutch soldier when in war receives five ounces daily of flesh-formers in his food, together with ten ounces and a half of carbon. \\'lien living in peace, or in garrison, he has a lower di( t, in which there are only three ounces and a half of flesh-fonners and ten ounces of carbon. He is no longer in " fighting condition." The French soldier, although his diet is of a very different description from the soldier of our own country, receives nearly the same amount of flesh-formers in his food namely, four ounces and thi-ee-quarters, and twelve ounces of carbon. The French soldier, unlike the Dutchman, is thus always kept in "fighting condition." When the British soldier retires to Chelsea Hospital, or the sailor to Greenwich Hospital, he docs not require such a large amount of flesh-formers in his food : these are reduced to between three and four ounces daily. To be exact, Greenwich pensioners have three ounces and a half of flesh-formers and ten ounces of carbon daily in their food. Pensioners of Chelsea Hospital have four ounces of flesh-foi-mers and nine ounces and three-quarters of carbon daily. Paupers in workhouses, not being exposed to much laoour, requu-e less flesh-formers in food than active soldiers and sailors. Taking the a\crage of all the workhouses in the kingdom, it is found that paupers have daily three ounces and a quarter of flesh-formers and eight ounces and a quarter of carbon. PUC ( 662 ) PUD Boys ten years old at school receive about one-half the flesh-formers of active men, and about three-fourths the quantity of carbon. The boys of the Royal Naval School at Greenwich have two ounces and a half of fleshformers and seven ounces and a half of carbon in thoir food daily. The boys of Christ's Hospital, London, have daily two ounces and a half of flesh-formers and seven ounces of carbon. Puchero, Spanish.. This is a Spanish soup. Like the "pot-au-feu" in France, it appears daily at the tables of families in Spain. Take two pounds of brisket of beef, place them in an earthen stock-pot with a pig's ear, the giblets of a chicken, half a pound of blanched ham or salted pork, and three handfuls of softened " garban(,'os.' ' Moisten the meats with five or six quarts of water, put the stock-pot on the fire, skim, and when the liquid begins to boil, set it on one side. After two hours, add to the soup two leeks tied together, a bunch of chervil, a pinch of wild mint, a slice of good pimipkin from Avhich the peel and seed have been removed, a large carrot, a head of cabbage-lettuce, and half a lilanched savoy cabbage. After another hour add a *' choriso," and continue to boil moderately. Before serving, remove the stock-pot from the fire, pass the soup gently thi'ough a sieve into a stewpan, and from that pour it into a tureen. Add the leeks and lettuces cut lip, and some slices of fried toast. Place the beef on a dish, surrounded with the " choriso," the vegetables, and the ham. The meats appear at table with the soup. To be thoroughly appreciated, puchero must be eaten in Spain. Pudding-Moulds (?? "? Illustration accompanving the article on Aunt Elizabeth's Pudding). Pudding-Pies. Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with a little thin lemon-rind, mix with it two ounces of ground rice, and keep it stirred over the fire until it is thick and free from lumps. Pour it into a bowl, stir into it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and add a pinch of salt, two table- spoonfuls of white sugar, a little grated nutmeg, two eggs, and a heaped table-spoonful of currants. Stir the rice occasionally until it is cool. Lino some large patty-pans with good pastry rolled very thin, three-parts fill them with the mixtm-e, and bake in a gentle oven. These puddings may be made larger by increasing the quantities in the proper proportion, and richer by putting in a little more butter and an additional egg or two. If liked, the currants can be strewed over the pudding-pies just before they are put into the oven instead of being stirred into it. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pudding Sauce, Caremes (the Chandot). Beat the yolks of two eggs, to which add half a pint of madeira and four ounces of pounded sugar. Set this upon embers or a slow fire, and mill it with a chocolate mill. It will thicken and become smooth, and is a superior pudding sauce. Serve in a sauce tureen, and the moulded pudding without sauce. The chandot answers well for all kinds of plum or other rich puddings. Pudding Sauces, Sweet. When any imusual sauce is appropriate to a pudding, the recipe is either given in this work with it, or a reference is made to it. The most usual sauces for puddings are sweet sauce, wine sauce, arrowroot sauces, and fruit sauces. They are made as follows :- Sweet Sauce. Sweeten a little good melted butter, and flavour it with grated lemonrind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon. Strew a little of the grate over the top, and serve in a tureen. A little wine or brandy may be added at pleasure. This sauce is suitable for almost all ordinary boiled puddings. JFine Sauce. Boil the thin rind of half a lemon or half an orange in a wine-glassful of water till the flavour is extracted. Take out the rind, and thicken the sauce by stii-ring into it a salt-spoonful of flour which has been mixed smoothly with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Boil for a minute, then add half a tumblerful of any good wine. Let the sauce get quite hot without boiling, sweeten, and serve. If port is used, the juice of the lemon may be added. A Superior Wuic Sauce. Heat half a tumblerful of light wine (madeira or sherry), and stir it whilst hot into the weRbeaten yolks of two eggs. Put the sauce into a saucepan, add a little sugar, and whisk over the fire till it is nicely frothed. Serve at once. Arrowroot Sauce. Mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water. Add the third of a pint of water, a glassful of wine, the juice of a lemon, and sugar and flavouring. Stir the sauce over the tire till it boils. This sauce may be varied by omitting the wine, and using milk or milk-and-water with the arrowroot. The juice of almost any fruit, too, may be boiled with the arrowroot. F}-uit Sauces. Boil fruit (almost any kind may be used) with a little water until it is quite soft. Hub it with the back of a wooden spoon through a fine sieve. Sweeten to taste, make it hot, and pour the sauce over the boiled or steamed puddings. Puddings. Without pretending to make a skilful cook by book, we believe that any intelligent beginner may compound a good pudding by attending to the following simple rules and plain directions : Attention is all that is required, and a Httle manual dexterity in turning the pudding out of the mould or cloth. Let the several ingredients be each fresh and good of its kind, as one bad article, jjarticularly eggs, Avill taint the whole composition. Have the moulds and pudding-cloths carefully washed when used, the cloths with wood ashes, and dried ia the open air. Lay them aside sweet and thoroughly dry. Puddings ought to be put into plenty of boiling water, which must be kept upon a quick boil ; or baked, in general in a. sharp but not scorching oven. A pudding in which there is vitich bread must be tied loosely, to allow room for swelling. A batter puddinff ought to be tied up firmly. Moulds should be quite full, well buttered, and covered vith a fold or two of paper floured and buttered. Eggs for puddings must be used in greater PUD ( 663 ) PUD quantity when of small size. The yolks and ?whites, if the pudding is wanted particularly light and nice, should be strained after being separately well beaten. A little salt is necessary for all potato,' bean, or peas puddings, and all puddings in which there is suet or meat, as it improves the flavour. The several ingredients, after being well stirred together, should in general have a little time to stand, that the flavours may blend. A frequent fault of boiled puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being imderdone. Baked puddings are as often scorched. Puddings may be steamed with advantage, placing the mould or basin in the steamer, or three-parts dipped in a pot of boiling water, which must be kept boiling, and filled up as the water wastes. When the pudding-cloths are to be used, dip them in hot water, and dredge them with flour ; the moulds must be buttered. Plain moulds or basins are easily managed. When a j udding begins to set in the oven, stir it up in the dish, to prevent the fruit, &c., from settling down to the bottom ; and, if boiled, turn over tlae cloth in the pot for the same reason, and also to prevent it from sticking to the bottom, on which a plate may be laid as a preventative. The time of boiling must be according to size and solidity. Large puddings are sometimes tethered to the ring of a twelve or fifteen-pound weight, to keep them below water in the pot. WTien the pudding is taken out of the pot, dip it quickly into cold water. Set it in a basin of its size. It will then more readily separate from the cloth without breaking. Have the oven very clean for all uses, cleaning it regularly before lighting the fire. Take wire that the juice of pies does not boil over, or the liquid contents of puddings ; and remember that sugar, butter, and suet become liquids in boiling. It is from theii- excess that puddings often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of sugar ; for if you have much syiup you must have more eggs and flour, which make puddings heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar which makes tapioca and arro NTOot, boiled plain, troublesome to keep in shape when moulded. Rice or other grain puddings must not be allowed to boil in the oven before setting, or the ingredients will separate and never set ; so never put them into a very hot oven. As a rule, we may assume that such flavouring ingredients as lemon-grate and juice, vanilla, and cocoa-nut, are more admired in modern puddings than cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Care must be taken to mix batter puddings smoothly. Let the dried flour be gTadually mixed with a little of the milk, as in making mustard or starch, and afterwards, in nice cookery, strain the latter through a coarse sieve. Puddings are lighter boiled than baked. Raisins, prunes, and damsons for puddings must be carefully stoned ; or sultanas may be used in place of other raisins. Cm-rants must be picked and plunged in hot water, rubbed in a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before the fire ; almonds must be blanched and sliced ; and in mixing grated bread, pounded biscuit, &c., with milk, pour the milk on them hot, and cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better and easier than boiling. Suet must be quite fresh and free of fibres. Mutton suet for puddings is lighter than that of beef : but marrow, when it can be obtained, is richer than either. A baked pudding for company has often a paste border or a garnishing of blanched and sliced abnonas about it, but these borders are merely matters of ornament ; if moulded, puddings may also be garnished in various ways, as with bits of curiant jelly. The best seasoning for plain batter puddings are conserve of Seville orange, lemon-iind, lemon brandy, or orangeflower water. The sweetness and flavour of puddings must, in most cases, be determined by individual taste. Sugar can be added at table. 3Ieg Bods. Very good puddings can be made without eggs ; but they mvist have as little milk as will mix, and nmst boil three or four hours. A few spoonfuls of fresh small beer, or one of yeast, will answer instead of eggs. Or snow is an excellent substitute for eggs, either in puddings or pancalces. Two large spoonfuls will supply the place of one egg, and the article it is used in will be equally good. This is a useful piece of infoiination, especially as snow often falls at the season when eggs are dearest. The snow may be taken up before it is wanted, and will not lose in virtue, though the sooner it is used the better. " Batter puddings," says Dr. Kitchener, "must be quite smooth and free fiom lumps. To insure this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder by degrees, and then the other ingredients. If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve this will take out all lumps eifectuallj'. Batter puddings should be tied up tight ; if boiled in a mould, butter it first ; if baked, also butter the pan. Be sm-e the water boils before you put in the pudding, set your stewpan on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the time. If set upon the fire the pudding often bums. '? Be scmpulously careful that your puddingcloth is perfectly sweet and clean; wash it without any soap, then rinse it thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it in boiling water, squeeze it drj', and dredge it with flour. If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now and then to keep them from sticldng to the bottom of the saucepan. If in a mould, this care is not so much required ; but keep plenty of water in the saucepan. When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it si o dd be just dipped in a basin of cold water before you untie the pudding-cloth. " Currants, jDrevious to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped. This is done by pouring some boiling water upon them. Wash them well, and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire ; piclv them clean from the stones. This not only makes them look better, but cleanses them from all dirt. Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron, and presei-ves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums, damsons, &c., are added to batter and suet puddings, or inclosed in the crust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddings called by those names. ' ' Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in PUD (664 ) PUD a cool place in the cloth they are boiled in, will keep good some months. When wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through they are ready." According to Soyer, every sort of pudding, if sweet or savoury, is better di-essed in a basin than a cloth. If boiled in a basin, the paste receives all the nutriment of the materials, which, if boiled in a cloth, are dissolved out by the water, when bj- neglect it ceases boiling. To cause puddings to turn out well, the inside of the basin should be thoroughly larded or rubbed with butter. In preparing meat puddings, " the first and most important point is never to use any meat that is tainted; for in puddings, above all other dishes, it is least possible to disguise it by the confined process which the ingredients undergo. The gradual heating of the meat, which alone would accelerate decomposition, will cause the smallest piece of tainted meat to contaminate the rest. Be particular also that the suet and fat are not rancid, always remembering the grand principle that everything which gratifies the palate nourishes." A pudding-cloth, however coarse, should never be washed with soap ; it should just be dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and stowed away in a di-awer or cupboard free from smell. Recipes for the following puddings wiU be found under their respective headings: Acidulated Adelaide Agnew Albemarle Alkeht Albert's, Prince Alderman's Almond, Boiled Almond, Jewish Almond, PlainAlmond, Rich Almond, Sauce for Almond and Bread Almond and Potato Almond and Raisin Amber Ambrose Apple, Alex.\ndr. .'s Apple, Baked Apple, Baked, Rich Apple Batter Apple, Boiled Apple Cake Apple Charlotte Apple Custard Apple, Mother's Apple, Nottingham Apple Plum Apple Roly-poly Apple Swiss Apples and Almonds Apples and Apricots, Charlotte Apricot Apricot, Baked Apricot Charlotte Arroba Arrowroot Arrowroot, PlainArrowroot, Steamed Ashantee Asparagus Aunt Alice's Aunt Elizabeth's Aunt Mary's Aunt Susie's AustrianBachelor's Bakewell Bakewell, Rich Batley Batter, Baked Batter, Baked, and Apples Batter, Boiled Beans, French Beef Steak and Kidney Beef Steak, B.uced Bermuda Bernese Bird's-nest Black Black (a la Fran (,'aise) Blacm-cap Black Currant Bread Bread and Meat, Portable Bread, Boiled Bread, Broken Bre.\d, Brown Bread-custard Bread, with Onions Bun Cabinet, Boiled Cabinet, Cold Cabinet, PlainCabinet, Rich Canadian CanterburyCarrot, Baked or Boiled Cassell Chancellor Cheese Cheltenham Cherry, Baked Cherry, Boiled Chester Chestnut Chichester Chicken and Macaroni Chicken and Rice Chocolate Christmas Plum Christmas Plum, for Children Christmas Plum, Economical Christmas, Teetotaller's Citron Citron and Almond Clarendon Cleton COBURG Cocoa-nut Cold College College, Baked Conservative Corn, AmericanCorn-flour Corn-flour, Baked Corn-flour Custard Corn-flour Fruit Corn-flour Souffle Corn-meal Cottage Cottage Bread Cottage Plum Cottage Potato Counsellor's Cream, Rich Crumpet AND Muffin Crust, Butter for Crust, Suet for Cup Curate's Curd Currant Currant, Boiled Custard, Baked Custard, Boiled D.1.ME J..ne's Damkorf Damson Delaville Delaware Deptford Devonian Devonshire Brand\ Duke of Norfolk's Duke of Northumberland's Empress's Ekechtheum Erfurt, or German Eve's Exeter Fat or Marrow Fig Fish Fish, Plain Flame Flour Flour, HastyFolkestone French French Plum Fruit Fruit, Paste for Fruit, Sauce for Fruit, Suet Fun Geneva George German, Baked German, Boiled German Brown Bread German Rice German, Sauce for Ginger Ginger and Bread Gingerbread Ginger Souffle Gloucester Golden Gooseberry, Baked Gooseberry and Rice Gotham Green Bean Greengage Ground Rice Ground Rice, Rich GuernseyHalf-pound Hampshire Hannah More's Harrogate Hasty Hasty, Baked Hasty, Oatmeal Hasty, or Farmer's Rice Hedgehog Henriette Herb Her Majesty's Herodotus Hide and Seek HiLLSBORO' Hilton Hog or Black Hunter's Hunter's Bread and Meat Iced IndianIndian, Baked PUD PUD Indian, Cheap Ingoldsby Chkist MAS Ikish, Black Italian Italian, Boiled Jam Koly-poly Jelly Jenny's JerseyJewish Almond Jubilee Judy's Kentish Suet Kidney Kidney and Liver Lady Abbess's Lamartine's Lamb Larks in Batter Leamington Leicester Lemon, Baked Lemon, Baked, Plain Lemon, Boiled Lemon Bread, Baked Lemon Bread, Boiled Lemon Roly-poly Little Mary's Cup Liver Macaroni Macaroni, Parisian Macaroni, Plain Macaroon Madeira Madonna IMalvern Manchester Mandarin Manna Croup Mansfield Marchioness Marlborough Marmalade, Orange Marrow Marrow, Baked or Boiled Mary's Meal Meal in Skins Merton Almond Middleton Miles Standish Military Millet Milton Mixed Fruit Molly Clark's Monmouth Montagne 3I0NTREAL Mother Eve's Mui-Fixs Is eapolitan Custard Xectarine Nesselrode Neuechatel New College Newmarket 44 Nonesuch Norwegian Nottingham nouilles Oatmeal, Hasty Orange Orange, Boiled Orange Marmalade Orange Marmalade, Baked Orange Marmalade AND Bread Orleans Oxford Paradise Paris Parliament Partridge Paste, Suet, for Boiled Peas Peas, Superlative Peasant's Peninsula Pigeon Pine Apple Plum Plum, Shelford Polenta Pork Pork, Black Potato Prince Consort Prunes Pumpkin Quaking Queen Mab's Rabbft Eaisin Raspberry Roll Ratafia Rector's Reform Rhubarb Rice and Gooseberry Rice, Baked Rice, Boiled Rice, Common Rice, French Rice, Rich Rice, with Fruit Roly-poly Rusk Saffron Sago Sauce for Saucer Sausage Savoury Scotch Semolina Shropshire Snipe Snowdon Somersetshire Souffle Soujee and Semola Spongecake Suet Sweet Sweetmeat Swiss Tansy Tapioca Toad-in-a-Hole Transparent Treaclp:, Rolled Trinity College Vermicelli Vermicelli, Baked Vermicelli, Boiled Vice- Chancellor' s Victoria Wafer Welsh White Wiltshire Windsor Beans Yorkshire. Puddings, Butter Crust for Boiled {see Crust, Buttered, &c.). Puddings for Invalids. In making puddings for invalids it should be rememtered that the simpler and lighter they are the more easily they will be digested. Wine or brandy should only be put into them when specially ordered, and as to sugar, cream, and flavouring, the taste of the patient should be ascertained before they are added. Sick people have generally a great objection to highlyflavoured dishes. The following is a light little pudding, and can be quickly prepared : Beat a tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste, and pour over it a tea-cupful of boiling milk, which has been lightly flavoured with lemon or cinnamon. Add a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar, and stir until the latter is dissolved. When the milk is cold, strain it, and stir into it a well-beaten egg. Pour the custard into a buttered basin, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn it out upon a hot plate, and, if approved, serve with a glassful of sherry or a little jam. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufiicient for one person. Puddings for Invalids, Wholesome. The puddings best suited for invalids are such simple articles as rice, sago, or tapioca pudding, boiled bread pudding, the light egg and floiu-, or " twenty minutes" pudding, as it is sometimes called, and a few others. It has been pointed out that the usual practice of putting the eggs into baked puddings previous to baking is not the best thing in the world for an invalid. When nutriment, and, at the same time, extreme lightness are to be secured, farinaceous articles, such as sago or bread, should first be cooked thoroughly in the milk, and when perfectly hot should have the egg broken into the pudding, which should then be beaten up well. The egg is thus cooked quite enough. It is hardly necessary to caution invalids against greasy puddings. Puddings in Haste. Take a cupful each of finely-shred suet, finely-grated breadcrumbs, and picked and washed currants. Mix these ingredients with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of sliced peel, and a pinch of salt. When the dry ingredients are well mixed, make them up into a light paste with two weU-beaten eggs and half a cupful of milk. Wring some small cloths out of boiling water, floui- them well, and tie in each one a small tea-cupful of the mixture. Plunge them into boiling water, and let them boil quickly. Turn them out on a hot dish, sprinkle white sugar thickly over them, and serve. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for three or four persons. PUD ( G66 ) PUP Puddings, Plum Sauce for {see Plum Sauce for Puddings and Sweet Dishes). Puddings, Prune Sauce for {see Prime Sauce). Puddings, Sweet, Punch. Sauce for {sec Punch Sauce). Puddings, Sweet Sauce for (see Polish Sauce for Sweet Puddings). Puddings, Sweet Sauce for {see Paris Sauce for Sweet Puddings). PufiTets, American (for Tea or Breakfast). Take a pint of cold milk, which has been boiled, one pint of home-made yeast, half a pound of butter, the same of sugar, and iive eggs. Mix these ingredients to a stiff batter, put it into baking tins to rise, and bake the cakes in the usual way. Pnffin. The size of the common puffin is not much greater than that of a pigeon. It is a bird which is found congregating together in large numbers favoui'ite breeding-places being covered with puffins, old and young, in thousands. Their haunts are chiefly unfrequented islands and headlands where there is some depth of soil. The flesh of the young bii-ds is used as food. Puffins are easily captured : the approach of man does not readily frighten them, and many are captured by means of a noose at the end of a rod. This bird, was formerly permitted by the Church to be used as food on Lenten days ; but its flesh, unless pickled and spiced, is disagreeable, strong, and fishy. Puff Paste (see Paste, Puff, or Feuille tage). Puff Paste, French. Take the same quantity of butter as of flour, so that if you use two poimds of the one you must also use two pounds of the other ; and so on. Weigh two pounds of very dry flour, and sift it ; then lay it on the table, and make a very large hole in the middle ; throw in a little pinch of sa.lt, a few small pieces of butter, and three yolks of eggs ; use a little cold water to melt the s Jit ; take water enough to make the paste of the same consistency as the butter. In winter you must make the paste very firm, because then the butter is so; in summer you must make the paste very soft, on accoimt of the butter being the same. The reason you are obliged to do so is, that if the paste were not made of the same substance as the butter, the latter, when you turn the paste, would break through. AVlien you have worked the flour Lightly, moiild it into a large ball, which flatten as quickly as possible ; turn it into a spiral direction, and flatten the middle. Lay butter on the table, with a little water, handle it to extract the white liquid, and squeeze it in a clean towel, that no moisture may remain. Lay the ball of butter over the paste, flatten the butter with a cloth, then fold the paste over the butter all jound, but in a square form, so as to wrap it well all over. Tiy whether the paste is firm enough to prevent the butter from breaking through it. Now powder a little flour over the table aiid the paste. Roll the paste as smooth as possible with the rolling-pin as long as you can ; fold it in three, and roll it over once again, taking care always to powder it over with a very little flour, to prevent it sticking to the table or to the rolling-pin. After ha\ing spread it well, fold it again in three. Make two marks on the top with the rolling-pin, to remember that it has been rolled twice. Then put it into a plafond trimmed with a little flour : place it on the ground to keep it cool, and leave it there for a little while. Shortly after put the paste on the dresser, and proceed twice more as before ; then let it rest again, and give it two turnings more, which makes six in all. Now give it a long shape, and fold it in two. You may then use it to make a volan-vent : when, at the latter end, fold the paste double only, and that is what is called half a turning. Of coui'se you are aware that the paste must have had six turnings and a half before you can make a vol-au-vent, and that you must keep the paste thicker than for other small articles of pastry. Cut the vol-au-vent the size of the dish in which it is to be sent up, and immediately after put it iato a plafond ; brush it over with yolks of egg, open it all round with the j)oint of the knife, and put it in a very hot oven. ISIind that puff paste always requires the oven to be very hot. If you are not careful to keep the oven shut the vol-au-vent will not rise properly. TVTien it is weU baked a fine colour, and you are certain that it is done through, take it out of the oven, remove the middle which served as a cover, empty and throw away the paste of the middle which is not baked, and lay the vol-au-vent cleanly on some paper to extract the butter. When you are ready to serve up, dish the vol-au-vent, and fill it Avith whatever you think proper. With regard to small articles of pastry, spread more puff paste, and cut it -wdth cutters of different shapes; if intended for entrees, brush the paste over with yolks of eggs, but do not glaze it with sugar. By glazing is here meant the sifting of finely-powdered sugar over' the pastry when baked and emptied, and using over it a red-hot salamander, or else putting it into a very hot oven for the sugar to melt and glaze. Puff Paste, Household. Beat out the water from ten oimccs of butter. Rub two ounces of this into a pound of flour till it is quite fine, and add a pinch of salt. Whisk the white of an egg, and mix with it the juice of a lemon and a small quantity of water. Stir this into the flour to make a paste. RoU it out, and be careful to roll it one way and straight from you. Roll out the remainder of the butter, lay it on the paste, sift a little flour over it and the rolling-pin, fold the paste into three, and roU it out twice. Let it lie in a cool place for some time ; an hour will do, but twelve hours will be better. Before using it roU it out very thin; it can scarcely be too thin. Bake in a quick oven. Be careful to handle the paste as lightly as possible, and. to make it in a cool place with cool hands. Puff Paste Patties, or Small Volau-Vents. Make some puff paste. Give_ it eight turns, and put it in a cool place or on ice PTTP (667) PUL for a little while, then roll it out to the thickness of ii quarter of an inch. Take two plain or iiuted pastry-cutters, one half the size of the other. Dip the larger into hot water, and stamp out as many rounds as are required. Place these on a balcing-sheet, and brush them over with egg, then dip the smaller cutter into hot water, and press it about half through the rounds in the centre. 'Bake in a quick oven, and when they are done enough take out the small rounds of crust from the top with a sharp knife, and scoop out the crumb and the soft part from the inside. Before sending them to table fill the inside with any one of the different kinds of patty meats. These are composed of savoury minces, made of poultry, game, or fish. Lay the little lid on the top, and serve. Time to bake the patties, eighteen to twenty minutes. Ptiff Paste Rings or Pyramids (a pretty dish for a Juvenile Party). Roll out some good pufE paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out first in a round the size of the inside of the dish upon which the pastry is to be served, and afterwards in rounds, gradually decreasing in size, until one is cut to lay on the top of the pyramid. Brush these rings over with egg, and bake them separately on balcing-sheets till they are done enough. Lay them one on the top of the other in gradation, spread brightcoloured jam of different colours on the rims, and crown the pyramid with a dried ajiricot, or any suitable ornament. If liked, three or foiu" small pyramids may bo made instead of one large one. The rounds may then be formed into rings by stamping a small cutter through the centre, the holes in the rings may be filled with bright-coloured jam, and the pastry may be covered with sifted sugar. Time to bake the Tounds, fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to size. Puff Paste Tartlets. Take half a pound of puff paste and give it eight tiuTis; roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Dip a plain or fluted cutter, an inch and threequarters in diameter, into hot water, and stamp out as many rounds as will be required. Gather the trimmings of the paste together, and roll it to the thickness of the sixth of an inch. Dip the cutter again in hot ?water, stamp out again the same number of rounds, and form them into rings, by pressing a smaller cutter, an inch in diameter, quite through them. Moisten the edges of the rounds, and lay the rings upon them to form the rims of the tartlets. Bake in a moderate oven, and whilst they are warm fill them with good jam. Place upon this a little ornament of pastry, made of the remnants. If the tartlets are wanted hot, put them into the oven for a minute before sending them to table. They are, however, generally served cold. Time to bake, ten to twelve minutes. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Puff Puddings. Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, and mix with it four tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolks of four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a pint of cream or mUk, and a little almond flavouring. A minute or two before the puddings are to be baked, add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Butter some large patty-pans, and threeparts fill them with the mixture. If liked, a few currants may be sprinkled over the puddings. Bake in a well-heated oven, and serve the puddings as soon as they are done enough, -with white sugar sifted over them ; send wine sauce to table with them. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, if made with milk. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six jiersons. Puffed Eggs. Beat four eggs lightly, and mix with them a pint and a half of cream or milk. Season with salt and pepper. Butter a mould, and pom- in the mixture ; cover ' it, and set it on a plate turned upside down in a saucepan, with boiling water two inches deep; Let the mixture steam until it is set. Turn it upon a hot dish, and pour round it a little good brown gravy. Time to steam, twenty minutes or more. Probable cost, lOd., if made with, milk. Sufficient for two or tliree persons. Puffs. Eecipes for the following puffs will be found under their respective headings : Almond Irish Apple Jam Austrian Lady Abbess, Claret Lemon Clifton Parmesan German Raspberry German, Almond Spanish Ginger Tunbridge. Hasty Puffs of Larks. Make half a pound of puff paste, according to the recipe already given. Pluck and draw three or four larks, and brown them equally all over in a stewj an with a little butter. Take them up, drain them, and put into the body of each bird a small lump of fresh butter, a little piece of truffle, a little pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of thick cream. Truss each lark firmly, and wrap it in shoes of fat bacon. Cover it with the puff paste, rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and shape it as neatly as possible. Put the puff's side by side on a buttered tin, and bake in a brisk oven for about ten minutes. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. Sufficient, four or five for a dish. Puits d' Amour. Make a fine rich puff paste, and roll it outthia. With tin shapes, made on purpose, cut it out, each size less than another. Lay the sizes in a pyramidical form ; then bake in a moderate oven, that the paste may be done sufficiently, but verj pale. Lay difi'erent coloured sweetmeats on the edges. Pulled Bread (for the Cheese Course). Take the crust off a newly-baked loaf while it is still warm. Pull it lightly and quickly with the*, fingers of both hands into rough pieces, and bake these in a slow oven until they are lightly browned and crisp. Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken. Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey. Take off the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a stewpan with the rest of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merrythought, with. PUL ( 668 ) PUM a pint of broth, a large blade of pounded mace, a finely-minced shallot, the juice of half a lemon, and a i-oU of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of cayenne ; thicken with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, till the meat is warm. In the meantime score the legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them on or round the pulled chicken. Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yolks of as many eggs, \vHl be a great improvement to this dish. Pulque. This is a beverage much delighted in by the Mexicans and inhabitants of some parts of Central and South America. It is made from the juice of different species of agave. The juice is collected by cutting out the flowering stem just when it is beginning to grow from the midst of the leaves, and scooping a hole for the juice. The cavity being formed, large quantities of juice are removed daily from it for months. \\Tien fresh, pulque is an agreeable drink, but it is more frequently drunk after fermentation, when its taste is more pleasant. The great di-awback is a putrid smell, but one gets over that in time. Mixed with water and sugar, and allowed to ferment for a few hours, pulque forms a beverage called Tepach. PulS9. Under this name are ranged the edible seeds of leguminous plants. The most important of all kinds of pulse are peas and beans ; after these may be ranked kidney-beans, lentils,' chick-peas, &c. The best kinds of pulse contain a great deal of nutriment. They are not, however, easy of digestion, and are apt to produce flatulence. Pumpkin. The pumpkin sometimes grows to a great size, as large as two feet in diameter. It is never eaten excepting when cooked. Pumpkin and Rice Soup. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it gently until it is almost soft. Drain it, and put it aside. Pare a small pumpkin, take out the seeds, and slice the whole or half of it. Cut it into slices, and put these in a saucepan, with two large onions, two cloves, four or five sticks of celery, a sprig of parsley, a tea-spoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and two quarts of water. Simmer all gently together until the vegetables are quite soft, then rub them through a colander, and keep back the fibrous portion. Set the puree, with the liquor that has run through the colander with it, again uiDon the fire, add the rice, and boil gently untU the latter is tender. Serve very hot. The soup will be much improved if nicely-flavoured stock, or the liquor in which meat has been boiled, be used instead of water. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost of pumpkins, uncertain. Suflicient for seven or eight persons. _ Pumpkin Pie (a Cornish recipe). Take a ripe pumpkin, and chip oflt the rind or skin ; halve it, and take out the seed and pluffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut the pumpkin into small thin slices ; fill a pie-dish therewith; add to it half a tea-spoonful of pimento, and a table-spoonful of sugar, with a small quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste, and bake in the ordinarj' way. Pumpkin pie is greatly improved by being eaten with clotted cream and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still more delicious pie. Notes and Queries, Third Series, Vol. XII. Pumpkin, Preserved. Take a fresh, pumpkin. Pare it, halve it, and pick out the seeds, then cut it into thin slices about the size of the palm of one's hand. Weigh these slices,, and aUow a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of two large lemons, the peel of one, and half a tea-spoonful of groimd ginger, to each pound of pumpkin. Lay the slices in layers upon a large dish, sprinkle the sugar between the layers, strain the lemon-juice over the whole, and leave it for two or three days. At the end of that time, turn the whole into a preserving-pan with the lemon-rind thinly sliced over, and allow a breakfast-cupful of water for every three pounds of sugar used. Boil the mixture gently until the slices are tender, turn them into a bowl, and let them remain covered for six or eight days. Throw away the bag containing the ginger. Strain off the syrup, and boil it again until it is thick ; pour it at once over the pumpkin. Put the slices of pimipkin into jars, and cover these with paper dipped in the white of an egg. Store in a cool dry place. Time, twelve days. Probable cost, uncertain. Pumpkin Pudding. Take a large jiumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water untU they are quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter, a large tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a small nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minvite or two, then add the third of a pint of hot milk and four weU-beaten eggs. A glassful of wine may be added or not. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. It will be sufl[icient for five or six persons. Pumpkin Pudding (another way). Boil the pumpkin, and rub it through a sieve, as in the last recipe. With a pint of the pulp put three-quarters of a pint of warm milk, an ounce of butter, a large nutmeg, grated, a pinch of powdered mace, three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two table-spoonfuls of picked and dried currants, and three well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture briskly for two or three minutes. Line a dish with pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Pumpkin Pudding (another way). Cut a pumpkin into square pieces, and peel the pieces over the fire in a saucepan until they become soft. If they are now found to be too moist, squeeze them in a cloth to get rid of some of the water. Then put the pulp in a stewpan with some butter, and fry it. When done, mix a spoonful of arrowroot in milk, sweetened with sugar, and simmer the whole PUM ( 669 ) PUN until it becomes reduced to a proper consistency. Then let it become cold, and thicken with three eggs, beaten up with a small quantity of water. Afterwards butter the inside of a stewpan, cover it with bread-crumbs, and put the cooked pumpkin into it. Place the pan over some hot cinders, put the lid on, and throw some embers on it. When the pudding is browned send it to table. Pumpkin Soup. Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pimipkin, pare it, remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a stewpan, with as much water or milk as wiU cover them, and boil gently until they arc reduced to pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with it a pinch of salt and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk, which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orangeflower water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, cut into dice, at the bottom of the soup tureen. Moisten the bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or, whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. Time, two hours. Probable cost, uncertain. Pumpkin Soup (another way). Slice a pmnpkin, and stew it in butter until tender, then reduce it to a puree. Add to this as much hot milk, flavoured with cinnamon or lemon, as may be required to thin it for a soup. Throw in a little salt ; and when properly heated, have ready a couple of eggs whisked to froth, put them into the tureen and pour the soup over. Serve immediately. Punch. Punch is a beverage made of hot water, mixed with wine or spirits, sweetened and flavoured. It was very generally used in the last century, but is onl}- to be met with now on extraordinary and very convivial occasions. It is always considered very insidious, but it rarelj'' disagrees with those who partake of it in moderation. It is dangerous chiefly because it docs not taste so strong as it is. In addition to the various kinds of punch given below, recipes for the following will bo found under their respective headings: Cambridge, Milk Poney George the Fol-rth Regent's Gin Roman, Iced Granito, Iced Royal Harrowgate Rum Iced Sherbet for Imperial Shrub Milk Tea Norfolk Turtle Orange Whiskey Oxford Yorkshire. Pine Api'LE Punch, To Make. The grand secret, or rather art, of making genuine British punch consists in the preparation of a rich and delicate sherbet ; this being accomplished, with the addition of the best Jamaica rum or French brandy, and pure hot or cold water, the mixture may be too strong or too weak, but cannot possibly prove bad punch. In preparing sherbet for punch, the acids of cream of tartar, tamarinds, and various other prepared vegetable acids, as well as that known as citric acid, are occasionally employed ; but perhaps, after aU, the juices of limes, lemons, and Seville oranges, expressed from the fresh fruits, when attainable, make the sort of sherbet which seems most congenial with the nature of good British punch. Procure a coujile of ripe, sound, and fresh lemons or limes, and a Seville orange ; rub off the yellow rind of one of the lemons with lumps of fine loaf sugar, putting each lump into the bowl as soon as it is saturated or clogged with the essence or grated rind ; then thinly pare the other lemon and Seville orange, and put these rinds also into the bowl, to which add plenty of sugar ; pour a very small quantity of boiling water : and immediately squeeze the juice of the fruit, followed by a little more hot water. Count Rumford recommended that a table-spoonful of rice should be boiled in each quart of water ; it imparts a softness almost equal to jelly. Incorporate the whole well together with a punch ladle ; and, putting a little of the sherbet thus composed, try its richness and flavour by the palate. If the fruit be good, a practised punch-maker will find httle which requires to be regulated, and that little can soon be adjustedby supplying the aqueous, saccharine, or acid deficiencies, so as to produce a luscious and richbodied sherbet, fit for the reception of the spirit which is to give it animation. If strainhit should be found necessary, this is the period for using a lawn sieve, through which a little more hot water may afterwards be passed; and a few parings of the orange or lemon-rind are generally considered as having an agreeable appearance floating on the bowl. The sherbet being thus prepared, to make it into genuine British punch, spirit should be added, in the proportions of a bottle of the best Cognac brandy ; the entire strength or weakness may be suited to the general inclination of the company for which it is prepared. The above quantity of fruit, with about threequarters of a pound of sugar, will make suffi- . jL . cient sherbet for three quarts of punch. _ Pine-apple rum and capillaii'c syrup, instead of part of the sugar, may be used, if convenient, with considerable advantage to the flavour; though it will prove excellent punch without either of these auxiliaries, or even Se\alle orange. The same sort of sherbet may, of coirrse, be used for brandy-punch or rum-punch singly ; but punch is seldom so made in England : most persons, indeed, mix equal parts of rum and brandy. Arrack-punch, however, is made with. that spirit alone, and usually with a simple sherbet of lime or lemon-juice, with sugar, as the flavour of the Seville orange interferes too much with the peculiar flavour of the arrack, which proves so grateful to most tastes, though to many verj' unpleasant. Punch may be immediately impregnated with the arrack flavour PUN ( 670 ) PUN "by a little of the flower of Benjamin. "When with the richest she-rhet, sometimes rendered stiU richer by fruit- jellies, and even nutmeg, wine is mingled with the rum and hrandy, instead of water, the liquid is called Punch Koyal. The mixture of a small quantity of ale or porter, highly recommended hy some in making punch, seems only advisable when it is rimipunch, made without any brandy, and must, even then, be very sparingly introduced. This article, whatever may appear its value, is furnished, with regard to its principles, by one of the fii'st practical punch-makers in Europe, who could easily, by dwelling on minute circumstances, have supplied matter for a smaU volume : the essence of which is, however, he freely confesses, here suificiently concentrated for every useful purpose. With regard to the salubrity of punch, when drank in moderation, hot in winter, or cold, and even iced in summer, it affords a grateful beverage, admirably aUajdng thirst, promoting the secretions, and conveying animation to the spirits. If, however, amid the hilarity excited by the tempting fragrance and luscious taste, which the bahny bowl seldom fails to inspire, it be too freely drank, its powerful combination of spirit and acid, instead of proving favourable to the constitution, wiU infallibly tend to bring on the gout, even sooner than most wines or strong cider, unless happily prevented by using a considerable deal of exercise. Punch, like all the prime blessings of life, is excellent and salutary when prudently enjoyed at proper seasons. We must not charge on them our own want of discretion, by which alone they are ever converted to evils. The apparently whimsical name of punch, like the liquid itself, is of West India origin the word, in the aboriginal language, signifying simpty fire, being the number of ingredients there used: viz., 1. Acid, or Ume, or lemonjuice; 2. Sweetness or sugar; 3. Spirit or rum, &c. ; 4. Water ; and 5. Spicy flavour, or nutmeg, &c. It is singular, too, that punch, the word for five, consists of just five letters. Erom the opposite natures of the ingredients, punch has also been called the liquor of contradictions. Br. Kitchener. Pimcll (a la Francjaise). Take a litre of i -rxms. (rather over a pint) and 750 grammes of broken sugar (about a pound and three-quarters), and place these ingredients in a saucepan. Burn the sugar until it becomes candied, brown in colour, and reduced by one-third. Throw in rather more than a pint of boiling tea, with the juice of half a dozen citrons and as many oranges. Drink immediately. Pvmch (a la Francaise). Another way. The following is calculated more esiDecially to produce a ladies' punch. Take rather more than two poimds of sugar, and melt it in a large saucepan over the fire, a good half -tumblerful of water or tea being poured over to moisten it, with the juice of two lemons and two oranges. When the sugar is well melted, pour into the saucepan a bottle of rum and a bottle of brandy, and as much tea as is needed to modify its strength. After adding the tea. take care that the punch is sweet enough. Just warm the punch ; do not let it boil. Immediately before serving squeeze the juice of half a dozen oranges through a sieve into the mixture. Punch (a la Eegence) . Take the thin rind of two lemons and two Seville oranges. Put them into a bowl, with a small piece of vanilla, four- cloves, and an inch of stick cinnamon. Poiu' over them a hot syrup, made with a pound and a half of refined sugar boiled in a jjint of water. Let these ingredients infuse for several hours. Mix with them the strained juice of twelve lemons, and rum and brandy according to taste. Strain the liquid through a fine napkin. Bottle immediately, and put it in ice until it is wanted. Punch (a la Eeine). Eub the rind of two large fresh lemons with three or f oui' large lumps of sugar tiU the zest is taken off. Squeeze out and strain the juice of six lemons and two oranges, and add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, dissolved in as much water as will moisten it, and half a pint of water. Freeze the mixture. Stu* into the ice a glassful of rum and a glassful of brandy, and freeze again. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a solid froth, and beat up with them four ounces of pounded sugar. Stir this into the ice and serve. Punch (a la Romaine, Iced). Take the juice of two China oranges, and a glassful each of rum and champagne, and mix them with a pint and a half of lemon- water ice. Freeze in the usual way. Beat up half a pound of powdered sugar with the frothed whites of two eggs, add this to the rest, with half a pint of brandy, a bottle of champagne, and a cup of green tea. Stir the mixture briskly into the ice until it liquefies. If it is too thick to pour out, add a little water, a little more champagne, or a httle syrup. For the punch to be perfect the quantity of ice must be proportioned to the liquid. It should be smooth and white, like thick cream, and should be served in champagne glasses. This recipe for making punch a la Romaine has long been a desideratum with amateurs, but, since its invention, it has been in a few hands only. Punch (a la Victoria). To a pint of clarified sugar, mix the juice of half a dozen lemons and two China oranges, with the rind of two lemons rubbed off on a lump or two of sugar. Strain when the sugar has dissolved, and freeze. Take the mixture out of the ice-pot, add equal quantities of brandy and rum, and beat up the whites of three eggs with a quarter of a poimd of sugar to a stiff froth. MLx it gently with the rest, and put again to freeze. Punch, Burnt. Stir over the fire a pint and a half of rum, a pint and a half of claret, and three-quarters of a poimd of sugar. When the sugar is melted, and the nuxture boils, poma pint and a half of boiling water over it and the juice of three lemons. This pimch may be drunk either hot or cold : if cold, it shoidd be allowed to stand covered in the saucepan till it is cold, and then be poured into decanters. The zest of the lemons should be rubbed oft' on the sugar before it is put in. PUN ( 671 ) PUN Puncll Drops. K,ub a large lump of sugar upon the rind of one or two oranges to obtain the flavour, then crush it, and add more sugar to make iip half a poimd. Put this into a sugar boiler, and mix it to a stiff paste, with a small wine-glassful of rum and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir over a gentle fire until it boils. Let it fall in drops, the size of a sixpence, upon a slightly oiled baking- sheet. When cold, they can be easily removed with the point of a knife, and should be put on a sieve in a warm place to dry. Punch, English. Rub the yellow rind of a lemon \iih lump sugar. Put the sugar into the punch-bowl, squeeze the lemon -juice to it, add the spirits rum and brandy in such proportions as are pieferred. Incorporate the spii-its thoroughly with the sugar and lemon before pouring in the boiling water, and keep stirring the whole while this is poiu'ing. Some add madeii-a or sherry. Punch for Hot Weather. Put a dozen small sprigs of early mint into a large tumbler, and sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of white powdered sugar. Fill up a third of the glass with peach brandy and French brandy in equal proportions, and add as much pounded ice as the tumbler will contain. Rub the rim of the tumbler with a slice of fresh pine-apple, and drink the contents as the ice melts. If the brandy is not at hand, a glassful of sherry and a glassful of gin may be substituted for it, and an inch or two of orangerind may be added as flavouring. Punch, Glasgow (from Lockhart's " Peter's Letters" ). " The sugar being melted with a little cold water, the artist squeezed about a dozen lemons through a wooden strainer, and then poured in water enough almost to fill the bowl. In this state the liquor goes by the name of sherbet, and a few of the connoisseurs in his immediate neighbourhood were requested to give their opinion of it for in the mixing of the sherbet lies, according to the Glasgow creed, at least one-half of the whole battle. This being approved of by an audible smack from the lips of the umpires, the rum was added to the beverage, I suppose, in something about the proportion from one to seven. Last of all, the maker cut a few limes, and running each section rapidly round the rim of his bowl, squeezed in enough of this more dehcatc acid to flavour the whole composition." Glasgow punch should be made of the coldest spring water, newly drawn from the spring. The acid ingredients mentioned above are enough for a large bowl. Punch, Hot. In order to make good punch, it is necessary that the sherbet- or mixture of sugar, flavoirring, acid juice, and water should be both rich and delicate, and that the ingredients should be thoroughly blended. Wben the latter point is attained, the spirits and wine can be added, in proportions to suit the taste. The following lecipe is a general favourite : Hub the rind of a large fresh lemon with two or three lumps of sugar till all the yellow part has been taken off ; then add more sugar to make up the weight to four ounces. Put this into the punchbowl, and strain over it the juice of the lemon. Pom- then into th(i punch-bowl a pint of boiling water, and stiithe mixtui-e well for five or six minutes. Add a quarter of a pint of rum, the third of a pint of brandy, and stir again. Half a nutmeg, grated, may be added or not. Time to prepare, a few minutes. Suflicient for a quart of punch. Punch, Hot (another way). Rub two or three lumps of sugar upon the rind of tlu-ec fresh lemons, or, if preferred, upon two lemons and one Seville orange, until the yeUow part is taken off ; then add more sugar to make up the weight to six ounces. Put this into the punchbowl, strain over it the juice of the fruit, and add a pint and a half of boiling water. Stir the mixture until the sugar is dissolved, then add a pint of rum and a glassful of brandy. A spoonful of noyau will improve the flavour of this punch. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Sufficient for thi-ee j)ints of punch. Punch Icing. Take some very white and finely-sifted sugar, and mix it to a thick sjTup with a little lemon- juice and rum. Before using it, make it hot, and put whatever is iced with it into a cool oven to dry as soon as the icing is spread upon it. Punch in Haste. Riib the rind of a fresh lemon with a large lump of sugar tiU the yeUow part' is taken off. Crush it to powder, with a quarter of an oiuice of citric acid, and pour over it a pint of clarified syrup. Put a table-spoonful of this flavoui-ed syiaip into a pint of water, add a glassful of nun or a glassful of brandy, or a mixture of both, and serve. Punch Jelly. Rub off the yeUow part of two large fresh lemons with one or two lumps of sugar, then add more sugar to make up the weight to ten ounces. Put this into a bowl, pour over it the strained juice of three lemons and a Seville orange, and put the bowl aside for a while. Put an ounce and a haK of best isinglass into a very clean saucepan, with a pint of cold water. Stir over the fire till the mixture boils, then di-aw it to the side, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. At the end of twenty minutes, throw a lump of sugar and a tea-spoonful of vinegar into it, and add about a table-spoonful of cold water. Stir lightly, carefully remove the scum, and strain the liquor through a napkin. Put it into a clean saucepan, and add to it the contents of the bowl that was set asidje, a quarter of a pint of brandy, and a quarter of a pint of rum. Let all simmer gently together for four minutes, then strain the liquor through a jelly-bag into the mould. If liked, calf's foot stock can be used, and then half the quantity only of isinglass will be required. Punch Jelly (a French recipe). Throw the peel of two sound lemons and half an ounce of tea into a syrup nearly boiling ; cover it, and whilst it is cooling, run the juice of five lemons through a bag. Pass the infusion through a silk sieve, and and mix with it half a pint of good arrack or nun, and one ounce of isinglass clarified. Finish as usual. Punch Jelly, made with Gelatine. Rub two or three lumps of sugar upon the rind PUN ( 672 ) PUR of three lemons till the yellow part is taken off, then add more sugar to make up the quantity to ten ounces. Strain over this the juice of six lemons, and put it into a scrupulously-clean saucepan, -with a quarter of a pint of Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of hrandy, three ounces of gelatine, a stick of cinnamon, a dozen cloves, and half a grated nutmeg. Whisk the whites of four eggs, beat them up with a pint of water, and put them, with the crushed shells of the eggs, into a saucepan. Stir the mixture over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved, then let it boil for ten minutes. Lift it from the fire, put it down by the side, and let it stand untouched for twenty minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag until the jelly is clear and bright, put it into a mould, and let it stand in a cool place till it is firm. Time, twelve houi's to set. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit. Is. per pint. Sufhcient for thi-ee pints of jelly. Punch Milk. Cut off the thin yellow part of four fresh lemons and a Seville orange, and be careful not to take any of the white pith of the fruit, or it will make the punch bitter. Pour over this rind a pint of Jamaica rum, and let it stand, closely covered, for twelve hours. Strain the liquor, and mix with it a pint of lemonjuice and two pints of cold water, in which a pound of refined sugar has been dissolved, and add the whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth, three pints more of rum, a grated nutmeg, a pint of madeira, a pint of strong green tea, and a quarter of a pint of maraschino. Mix thoroughly, and pour over all a pint of milk, boiling hot. Let the punch stand a little time, then strain it tlrrough a flannel jelly -bag until it is quite bright, and either use it at once, or bottle it to put away. Punch., Poney. Take a tea-cupful of very strong gunpowder tea. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar, and put them into it ; add the strained juice of three lemons, a tea-spoonful of essence of cinnamon, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, half a pound of sugar dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water, a bottle of Chablis made hot, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a quarter of a pint of rum, and a wine-glassful of rack. Mix the punch thoroughly, strain, and serve hot. Time, half an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a little more than a quart of punch. Punch Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. Rub a large fresh lemon Avith two or three lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, then add more sugar to make up the weight to two ounces. Pour over this a glassful of sherry or madeira, and a glassful of brandy. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with two ounces of fresh butter, and add, gradually, the weil-beaten yolks of four eggs, the flavom-ed sugar, &c. Turn the whole into a saucepan, and whisk briskly over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken ; serve very hot. The sauce must not reach the point of boiling. If liked, the eggs can be omitted, and the wine, &c., can be mixed with half a pint of melted butter. Time, two or three minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, lOd. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Punch Souffle. Beat three table-spoonfuls of floui- to a smooth paste with a little orange-flower water, and add three ounces of pounded sugar, slightly flavoui-ed with lemon, and three ounces of ratafias, crushed to powder. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in with them the well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Butter a souffle-dish, fasten round it a high band of buttered paper to keep the souffle from falling over the top as it rises in the oven, and strew bread-crumbs over the inside. Beat up with the mixtui-e the whites of eleven eggs, which have been whisked to a firm froth, turn it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Be careful to move the souffle round in the oven two or three times, that it may be equally baked. Serve the moment it is done enough, and send a rich custard, flavoured with brandy, to table with it. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the custard. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Punch, Whiskey. Make the sherbet according to either of the recipes given for hot i punch, and add whiskey only, instead of the usual mixture of spirits. Pupton, Apple {see Apple Pupton). Puree. The puree of any vegetable or meat is prepared by simmering till the substance is sufficiently pulpy or soft to be passed through a horse-hair or tammy sieve. In the case of meat, it is sometimes necessary to beat in a pestle and mortar after simmering. The sieve is placed, bottom upwards, over a dish or tin, and with a wooden spoon or puree presser the substance is worked through, and what passes through is called a puree. It is sometimes necessary to moisten with a little liquor, which facilitates the passing of the puree. The puree of any vegetable stirred into a clear beef stock makes a soup, and gives it its characteristic name. Buckmastcr. Recipes for the following purees will be found under their respective headings : Artichoke, Jeru- Poultry SALEM Rabbit Carrots, Red Sorrel Celery Spinach Chestnuts Sprue Asparagus Eggs Tomatoes Game Truffles Green Peas Turnips Leveret Vegetable Mar Peas, Green row Potatoes Woodcock. Puritan's Pudding. Grate three ounces of stale crumb of bread. Put it into a bowl, with a pinch of salt, the eig-hth part of a nutmeg, grated, an ounce of the kernel of a fresh cocoanut, finely-grated, two table-spoonfuls of powdered and sifted sugar, and an inch of thin lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients well together, then pour over them a pint of milk, which has been beaten up with two well-whisked eggs. Let the crumbs soak for two hours or more. Beat the mixture well with a fork, pour it into a dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or foiur persons. PUR ( 673 ) QUA Purl. T;ik(3 ten pounds of wormwood, six pounds of gentian, two pounds of dried rind of orange, half a pound of bruised ginger, two ounces of cloves, and eight ounces of cardamomums. Put these ingredients in six gallons of water, boil the mixture, then digest for fourteen or fifteen days, and decant into wine bottles. Add this to warm beer, according to taste. Purl (another way). Take half a pint of ule, and warm it gently ; then add to it one wine-glassful of bitters, or a little spirit. Pm-l is a favourite early morning beverage with hard di'inkers. Purl (another way). "Warm a pint of ale with a quarter of a pint of milk, and add some sugar and a wine-glassful of gin, brandy, or rum. This beverage is now little used, except amongst the lower classes in and about the metropolis. Plirslain. This plant is a native of South America. The young shoots and succulent leaves iiscd to be frequently employed as a cooling ingredient in spring salads. Putrefaction. The process of putrefaction is thus described by Baron Liebig : "The sulphurised and nitrogenised constituents of plants and animals are among the most complex organic atoms. From the instant that they, after being separated from the organism, come in contact with the air, they pass into a state of decomposition, which, when once commenced, continues, even if the air be now excluded. The colourless, fresh-cut surface of a potato, of a turnip, or of an apple, when exposed to the air, soon becomes brown. In all such substances the presence of a certain quantity of water, in which the molecules are enabled to move freely on one another, is a condition necessary to the production, by temporary contact with air, of a change in form and composition, a resolving of the original body into new products, which continues uninterruptedly till no part of the original compound is left. This process has been distinguished by the name of pnfirfactiot J' Pyramid, Italian {sec Italian Pyramid). Pyramids, Puff Paste {see Puff Paste Rings or Pyramids). A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Party. Pyroligneous Acid has the remarkable property of preventing the putrefaction of animal substances. It is well known that meat that has been smoked keeps better than that which has been dried without smoke ; and it is now ascertained that this effect depends on the pjToligneous acid that rises with the smoke of the wood or turf which are employed in smoking it. When carefully purified and properly diluted with water, pyroligneous acid is used extensively as a substitute for common A-inegar in pickling, and even for common use. Quail, The. The quail will keep for .several days before it is dressed. It may either be drawn before being roasted, or, like the 45 woodcock, be roasted without being drawn. As it is rather deficient in flavour; a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf are generally tied over it, before putting it to the fire. Quails, Dr. Doran tells us, are variously said either to have recalled Hercules to life or to have cured him of epilepsy. The Romans, however, rather feared them, as tending to cause epileptic fits. Galen thought so ; Ai-istotle took a different view ; the Greeks devoured them as readily as though they had Aristotle's special authorisation, but the Romans wore only slowly converted to the same way of thinking. " Quails, in my opinion," says M. Ude, "have no flavour, and from the circumstance of confinement and bad feeding, are never very fat : it is only their rarity that makes them fashionable. They must be served as roast onlv." Quails, Com.pote of. Take six or eight quails, according to the size of the dish. Cut the claws off, and empty the bii-ds, without making too large an opening. Truss them with the legs inward. Have a dozen pieces of bacon cut in the shape of corks, blanch them in order to draw the salt out, then let them fry in butter till they are of a light brown ; next take them out of the stewjian to make room for the quails, which stew till they begin to be of ii light brown also, and then take them out. Make a roux, which moisten with a ladleful of gravy of veal; add a bunch of parsley and green onions, some small white onions (if approved of), mushrooms, &c. As soon as the quails are done, take them out of the stewpan, and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim the sauce well, and strain it thj-ough a tammy over the quails ; then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and small onions, and send u]) quite hot and well seasoned. "This dish," .says M. Ude, "will not do for an English dinner." Quails, Galantine of. Bone half n. dozen quails. This is a delicate and troubloj some process, and if the cook cannot manage it she had better let it be done by the poulterer, llince finely the livers of the 'birds, and mix QUA ( 674 ) QUE with them a minced sweetbread, two or three ounces of grated ham, and a little chopped parsley, minced shallot, and pepper and salt. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolk of an egg. Lay the birds open on the table, skin downwards. Divide the forcemeat equally amongst them, and spread half ?f it upon the birds. Lay upon each a slice of cold tongue, a spoonful of chopped truffle, if this can be had, and afterwards the rest of the forcemeat. Roll each bu-d to an oval shape, and tie it in a piece of old napkin. Lay the birds side by side, and put with them the bones and trimmings, a little pepper and salt, an onion stuck with two or three cloves, and either a knuckle of veal or a calf's foot. Cover with nicely-flavoured stock, and let the quails simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the birds remain in the liquor until they are nearly cold. Drain them, take them out of the napkins, and brush them over with glaze. Boil the sauce quickly to a jelly, and strain it. If it is not quite clear, clarify it with white of egg. Boil a pound of rice in a quart of water slightly salted, until it is quite tender, and the liquid is absorbed. Beat well till it is smooth, then press it into a plain round mould. When it is cold and stiff, turn it upon the centre of a large dish. Brush it over with clarified butter, and rest the quails in an upright position upon it. Garnish the dish with the gravy jelly, cut into dice, and the galantine will be ready for serving. Any small birds may be served in the same way. Probable cost of quails, when cheap. Is. each. Sufcient for a moderate-sized supper dish. Quails, Galantine of (another way). See Galantine of Quails. Quails, Roast. Draw the birds or not according to taste. Truss them firmly, and tie over the breasts a vine-leaf covered with a slice of fat bacon. Roast before a clear fire, and baste well. When done enough brush the bacon over with glaze, and serve the birds on a hot dish ; garnish with watercresses. Pour good brown gravy round but not over the quails. If the birds are not drawn before being roasted they should be served on a slice of toast, which has been placed in the pan under them to catch the trails. Time to roast the quails, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, when plentiful. Is. each. Sufficient, two for a dish. Quails, Trussing of. Pluck, draw, and singe the quail. Cut ofi: the neck close to the back, and the wings at the first pinion. Truss the legs close to the body, and pass a skewer through the pinions and thighs. Quaking Pudding. Scald a quart of cream ; when almost cold, put to it four wellbeaten eggs, a spoonful and a haK of flour, some nutmeg, and sugar. Tie the pudding in a buttered cloth, and boil for an hour. Turn it out carefully, lest it should crack. Serve with melted butter, a little wine, and sugar. Quass. A sort of weak beer, a favourite beverage among the people in Russia, goes under this name. It is produced by fermenting rye-meal in warm water, and is usually bottled in stone bottles. When it becomes too sour it does service as vinegar. Queen Adelaide's Pudding. Beat eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar, half a pound of dried flour, two ounces of thinlysliced candied peel, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of essence of almonds or essence of lemon. Whisk the yolks and whites of six fresh eggs, first separately, and afterwards together. Add them to the other ingredients, and beat the mixtui-e for several minutes. Pour it into a well-buttered mould, cover with buttered paper, and afterwards tie in a cloth, and boil or steam the pudding. Turn it out carefully on a hot dish, and pour wine sauce round but not over it. Time to boii, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Queen Cakes. Beat half a pound of butter to a cream. Add gradually half a pound of loaf sugar, one pound of dried flour, half a pound of picked currants, and a flavouring either of grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, or almonds. Beat the j'olk and whites of thi-ee eggs, first separately, and afterwards together, ilix with them a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, which has been dissolved in a tablespoonful of hot milk, and a small tea-spoonful of thick cream. Stir this mixtiu'e into the cake, and beat thoroughly for several minutes. Butter some small queen-cake tins or pattypans, half fill them with the batter, and bake in a brisk oven for about twenty minutes. Queen-cake tins are generally made heartshaped. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. Queen Cakes (another way). Put half a pound of fine flour into a bowl. Mix with it a small pinch of salt, half a pound of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted, six ounces of currants, picked and dried, and a flavouring of either powdered cinnamon, grated nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, or pounded almonds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Cut half a pound of fresh butter into small pieces, beat to a cream, and add gradually five well-beaten eggs, two table-spoonfuls of rose-water or brandy, and the strained juice of a lemon. Stir the flour, spice, &c., gradually into this mixture, and beat the batter for several minutes. Butter some queen-cake tins, half fill them with the batter, and bake in a brisk oven. "WTien done enough, turn them out, and place them upside down to cool. If liked, these cakes may be coated with icing after they are baked. To do this put the white of an egg into a bowl, and nux gTaduaUy with it a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, and work these together with a spoon until the paste is white, shining, and thick. Spread a little of this upon the cake, and put in a cool oven, or in a warm screen, to dry. Time to bake the cakes, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Queen Cakes (another way). Wash a pound of fresh butter in rose-water. Beat it to a cream, and mix with it first the whites of QUE ( 675 ) QUiE eiglit eggs which have been whisked to ca solid froth, and afterwtu-ds the beaten yolks of the eggs. Add gTadually a pound of dried Horn-, a pound of picked and dried currants, and a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, and beat the mixture well between every adtlition. Butter the queen-cake tins, or, failing these, some small tartlet tins, half fill them with the batter, and bake in a brisk oven. Just before the cakes are put into the oven, sift a little finelypowdered sugar over them. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 8d. Queen Cakes (another way). Take a pound of powdeied sugar, a pound of well-dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, and half a pound of currants, washed and picked ; grate a nutmeg, and an equal quantity of mace and cinnamon ; work the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites of the eggs twenty minutes, and mix them with the butter and sugar ; then beat the yolks for half an hour, and put them to the butter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready for the oven put in the flom-, spices, and currants. Sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake in tins. Queen Mab's Pudding. Put a pint and a half of new milk or cream into a saucepan with any flavouring that may be preferred either an inch of stick cinnamon, the thin rind of a lemon, vanilla, or eight or nine bitter almonds, blanched or sliced. Simmer the liquor gently until it is pleasantly and i-ather strongly flavoured, then put with it a pinch of salt, f onr ounces of loaf sugar, and an ounce of isinglass or gelatine, and stu- imtil the last is dissolved. Strain the mixture through musHn, and mix with it the well-beaten yolks of five eggs. Stir it again over the fire until it begins to thicken, but on no account allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Stir until it is cool, then mix with it an ounce and a half of candied peel and an ounce and a half of dried cherries or, if preferred, preserved ginger or preseiwed pineapple may be used instead of the cherries, and a little of the juice of the fruit may be stirred in with the pudding. Pour the pudding into an oiled mould, and let it stand in a cool place, or upon ice, until set. Turn the pudding out very carefully, and pour round it a sauce made of clear sjTup flavoured with lemon-rind and coloured with cochineal, or, if preferred, nuxed with a small portion of strawljcrry or currant acid. Time, about an hour to prepare the pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, if made with milk and gelatine. Is. lOd. Queen Mary's Sauce for Roast Mutton. Put a well-hung joint of mutton down to a clear fire, and baste liberally with he contents of the dripping tin. When it is three-parts roasted, drain off the fat, and put a good-sized dish under the meat. Place in this an anchov}-, boned and pounded, a small onion, chopped small, and a little pepper ; pour over it a wine-glassful of port and a %vino-glassful of boiling water, and let the dr-oppings of the meat fall into the liquor. Baste the meat with this sauce, and when it is done enough, serve on a hot dish and pour the gravy under it. Sufficient for a joint weighing six or seven pounds. Queen's Biscuits. Make a soft paste of the following materials : A pound and a half of flour, the same weight of powdered loaf sugar, the yolks of eighteen eggs, the whites of twenty-four, and a suflicient quantity of crushed coriander seeds; a little yeast may also be added, if desired. Make the paste into biscuits, and bake them on paper, at a moderate heat, till they begin to brown. Queen's Custard. Sweeten a pint of thick cream with two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Boil it, allow it to cool shghtly, then mix with it very gradually the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs. Put the custard into a heated jug, place this in a pan with boiling water, and stir with a wooden spoon till it begins to thicken. Pour it out, mix with it a wine-glassful of maraschino or noyau, and continue stirring it until it is cold. An oimce of almonds, blanched and thinly sliced, may be added or not. The custard is to be stirred over the fire till it begins to thicken. Suflicient for a pint and a half of custard. Probable cost, 3s. Queen's Drops. Beat half a pomid of fresh butter to cream. Add eight ounces of finely-powdered sugar a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and, gradually, four well-beaten eggs. i eat the mixture for five or six minutes, then add lightly eight ounces of dried flour and two ounces of picked and dried currants. Drop the batter from the end of a spoon upon a bakingsheet spread with butter, in small balls the size of a pigeon's egg, and bake in ;i hot oven. When nearly cold, take the drops oft' the paper. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Queen's Pudding. Butter a plain mould or basin rather thickly with butter, flour it well, and stick raisins, slices of candied peel, or diied fruit over the inside in rows. Fill the basin with layers of bread and butter, and put between each layer sugar flavoured with lemonrind, blanched and sliced almonds, and candied peel. Pom- over the whole a pint of milk which has been mixed with fom- well-beaten eggs. Cover the basin closely, and boil or steam the pudding. Time to boil the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient, if made in a quart mould, for five or six persons. Queen's Sauce for Boiled Plum Puddings. Take half a pint of good melted butter, sweeten it, and flavour with powdered cinnamon or grated lemon-rind. Stir into it a glassful of sherrj' or maderra and a glassful of rum shrub. Put the sauce into a tureen, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and it is ready for ser ?ing. Time, a few minutes to prepai'C. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Queen's Soup, or Soupe a la Reine. ? Skin and clean two fine fowls or three yomig chickens, carefully removing the dark spongy substance which is inside. Put them into a saucepan, with a bunch of parsley, and pour over them as much good white stock, nicely flavotired, as will cover them. Let them QUE (676) QUE simmer gently for an hour. Take them up, and pick off all the white flesh from the birds. Blanch and pound a dozen sweet almonds and two bitter ones. Beat them to a paste in a mortar, \vith a little water to keep them from oiling. Soak the crumb of a penny roll in the broth, and when it is quite moist, wring it in. a cloth, to squeeze the moisture from it. Chop the flesh of the chickens, and pound it to a paste, with the soaked roll, the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs, and the pounded almonds. Stir this mixture into the soup, and press the whole through a sieve. Heat it in a clean saucepan, and mix with it a pint and a half of thick cream which has been boiled separately. Stir it over the fire till it boils, and if not sufficiently thick, add a little an-owroot. Many cooks omit the yolks of eggs altogether, and use arrowroot instead. If no white stock is at hand, it may be made by l)utting into a saucepan three or four pounds of the knuckle of veal which has been soaked and broken up, with four ounces of undressed lean ham, three onions, a carrot, a turnip, four or five outer sticks of celery, two sprigs of lemon thyme, a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and three quarts of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully till no more scum rises, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let it simmer gently and without ceasing until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts. Pour it out, and when it is stiff, clear the fat from the top, lift it out free from sediment, and it is ready for use. For many years this soup was constantly included in the royal bill of fare. Time to boil the chickens, one hour. Probable cost, varying with the price of the chickens. Queen's Tea Cakes. Take the weight of two eggs in fresh butter and beat it to a cream. Mix with it half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, which, before being crushed, has been rubbed upon the rind of a large lemon until the yellow part has been taken off, half a pound of dried flour, and a jjinch of salt. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a' paste by mixing with them the two eggs well beaten, and a little rose-water, or, failing this, cold water. EoU the paste out to the ? thickness of half an inch. Cut it out in rounds the size of a saucer, and bake in a moderate .oven for from a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. for this quantity. Quenelles, Quenelles are small balls made of delicate French forcemeat, composed of panada, calf's udder, and the flesh of veal, poultry, or fish, thoroughly pounded, then .seasoned, and moistened with egg. They take their name from the meat of which they are composed. Great patience and care are required in making them, and these must be directed principally to pounding the ingredients thoroughly, first separately, and afterwards together. Quenelles are served either in soups, or, with rich sauce, as a ragout, or they may be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, fried in hot fat, and served as croquettes. AVhon the forcemeat is made, it is always best to test a little piece before poaching or frpng the whole of the preparation. To do this, a small ball should be moulded, and thrown into fast-boiUng water. If, when it is taken out, the quenelle is light, firm, and well seasoned, no alteration will be necessary. If it is too fii-m, a little water may be added, and if not firm enough, the yolk of an egg will, in all probability, make it of the proper consistency. Quenelles as a Garnish for Poultry. The following is a pretty and appetising dish for dinner or supper : Stuff a large fowl with veal forcemeat, and roast it. Keep out a small quantity of the forcemeat, and make it up into quenelles, about the size of small walnuts. Poach these in gravy, and warm with them as many slices of tongue as there are quenelles. Put a border of mashed potatoes round a large dish, and place on this, alternately, the tongue and the quenelles. Put the roast fowl in the middle of the dish, and pour over it and the quenelles a quart of good white stock. Serve very hot. The apijearance of the slices of tongue wiW be further improved if they are brushed over with a little glaze. Quenelles for Turtle Soup. Take about a quarter of a pound of lean white veal, cut it into long slices, and scrape it with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains. Pound this to a smooth paste, and rub it through a wire sieve upon a plate. Make it into a ball, and take its bulk, not its weight, in panada {sec Panada) and calf's udder. Many cooks substitute fresh butter for the udder : when it is used a smaller proportion will be required. Pound these ingredients, and press them through a sieve, first separately and afterwards together; season the forcemeat with salt, pepper, and gi-ated nutmeg, and add, gradually, the yolks of two and the white of one egg. After pounding the ingredients together, pass the whole again through a sieve, and before poaching the quenelles, test a little piece of the forcemeat by throwing it into boiling water. If, when it is taken out, it is not sufficiently firm, add the yolk of another egg. Mould it in balls of any size that may be preferred. Poach these in boiling water until they are sufficiently hard, drain them, when done enough, put them into the tureen, and pour the soup gently over them. The quenelles may be made as small as marbles or as large as eggs; the former size is generally preferred for soup. Time to poach, from six to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost, Is. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for a large tureen of soup. Quenelles for White and Clear Soups. Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan over a gentle fire. Beat it up with a little flour and some thick cream, as much as will make a smooth paste. Add two ounces of boiled macaroni, two ounces of grated pai-mesan, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat the mixture over the fire until it is smooth and firm, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. IMould it into quenelles with a tea-spoon which has been dipped in hot water, and poach these in boiling gravy till they are done through. Lift them out with a skimmer, and put them into the tureen with the soup. QUE (677) QUE Time, three minutes to poach the quenelles. Sufficient for a small tureen of soup. Quenelles, Forcemeat of. Quenelle forcemeat is made by mixini meat, poultry, game, or fish with an equal quantity in bulk of panada and calf's udder: it must be remembered that each ingredient must be pounded and passed through a sieve by itself, and afterwards all must be pounded together, and together passed through the sieve. The preparation of the udder is a troublesome and tedious process, besides which the udder cannot always be procured. Therefore fresh butter is frequently substituted for it ; and when this is the case the following proportions may be followed : they wiU be found to make good forcemeat, whether meat, poultry, game, or fish is used : Take half a pound of meat properly prepared, a quarter of a pound of panada {sec Panada), and three ounces of fresh butter. Pound these together, with a little salt, cayenne, and mace, if the panada is not already seasoned. A Uttlc anchovy may be added for fish quenelles. Jli.x; in gi-adually a table-spoonful of good white sauce, and the yolks of two and the white of one egg. Test the forcemeat as directed in the preceding recipes [see Quenelles, &c.), and, if required, add a little more seasoning or the yolk of another egg : keep the preparation in a cool place or upon ice until it is wanted. It ?will keep for a day or two. Quenelles, Forcemeat of (another way). Sec Forcemeat of Quenelles. Quenelles, German. Various recipes are given in tliis book for the German klosse, which are a kind of quenelles. They are made both sweet and savoury. When sweet, they arc sen'ed with sugar and sauce ; when savoury, they are either served in soups or as a garnish for dishes, or piled high on a dish with vegetables. The following are made with Hour, and may either be used as a garnish, served with vegetables, or, after being poached, may be dipped into clarified butter, and afterwards into egg and bread-crumbs, and fried till they are lightly browned, then drained, and served hot on a neatly -folded napkin: Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three small cupfuls of milk. When the liquor rises in the pan, stir six ounces of flour quickly into it, add a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and stir the paste briskly till it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Turn it out, and add gradually three whole eggs and a little grated parmesan. ]\Iould the quenelles in the usual way, and let them simmer gently until they are done throiigh. The water or gravy in which these quenelles are poached should not be allowed to boil at all, or the balls will break. Time to simmer, according to size. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Quenelles, Lobster (for Fish Soups). Take the meat, pith, coral, and spawn of a small hen lobster, and pound it to a paste. Mix with it two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs and three ounces of butter. Season the forcemeat with a tea-spoonful of anchovj', a little salt, nutmeg, and cayenne, and moisten with the yolks of two eggs and the white of one. Test a little piece, to bo sure that it is properly seasoned and firm, and if necessary, add the yolk of another egg. Would the forcemeat into small quenelles, and brown these in hot fat, or poach them in boiling wat( r. They may be served with fish, soup, or, with good gravy poured over them, as a breakfast or supper dish. Time to fry, according to size. Probable cost of lobster. Is. to 2s. Quenelles, Moulding of. Take a spoon of the size it is wished the quenelles should be, till it with the forcemeat, and smooth the surface with a knife which has been dipped in hot water. Dip another spoon of the same size into hot water, and with it slip the meat out of the first spoon, put it into a buttered dish, and proceed with another quenelle. When as many are made as are required, slip the balls from the dish into a saucepan of water lightly salted, and let them boil until fii-m. Quenelles of Cod, Salmon, feeTake the skin from a thick slice of salmon or cod, scrape the flesh with a spoon, and rub it tlirough a wire sieve upon a dish. Pound six ounces of the fish thus prepared, with three ounces of butter, and four ounces of panada; season with salt and cayenne, and then add, gradually, one whole egg, and the yolks of two others. Pound the mixture again, and put it on ice or in a cool place till it is wanted. Any kind of fish forcemeat may be made in the sau'" way. Quenelles of Game. Take the remains of cold game or poultry, carefully remove the skin, bone, and sinew, then mince and pound the meat, and prepare the quenelles according to the recipe already given for quenelle forcemeat. If this method is considered too troublesome, adoj t the following : ilince a pound of the meat finely, and pound it in a mortar, with three ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and six or eight button mushrooms chopped small. Soak the crumb of a French roll in gravy, and squeeze the moistirre from it. Put it into a stewpan with as much gravy as it will absorb, and stir it over a clear fire till it forms a smooth, mass and leaves the side of the saucepan with the spoon, ilix with it the unbeaten yolk of an egg, and set it aside to cool, then pound it with the other ingredients till all are thoroughly blended. Leave the preparation in a cool place or on ice for an hour or two, mould it into balls, dip these in egg and bread-crumb, and fiy in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain on blotting-paper, and serve on a hot dish, with good brown sauce or mushroom sauce poured over them. Time to fry, about ten minu{;es. Quenelles of Game (another way). Pick the meat from the remains of cold game, and carefully remove the skin, bone, and sinew. Cut it small, and put half a pound of it into a moriar, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an oimce of butter, haK an ounce of fat bacon, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture to a smooth paste, and bind it together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg. ilould into balls in the usual way, and boil QUE ( 678) QUI those gently in a little gravy till they are done through. Drain, and serve piled high on a hot dish, with mushroom sauce poured round them. Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. Quenelles of Grouse. Gut the meat from the remains of dressed grouse. Eemove the skin and sinew, and pound the flesh in a mortar until it can be rubbed through a coarse sieve. To every pound of meat add half a pound of bread-crumb, soaked in milk and drained, one ounce of fat bacon, two ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, the eighth of a grated nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. When these ingredients are well mixed, pound them again all together ; then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Divide the mixture into small quantities. Form these as nearly as possible of the size and shape of an egg; poach them in boiling stock, di-ain well, and serve in a dish, with some nicely-flavoured gravy, made with the bones and ti-immings of the grouse, and thickened with arrowroot. Quenelles, when well made, are considered a delicacy. They should be light and spongy ; and it is a good plan to try one ball first before cooking the whole. If not sufiiciently firm, add another egg ; if too much so, add a few di-ops of water. Quenelles are sometimes put into buttered cups, boiled, and turned out when done enough. Stewed mushrooms may be sent to table with them. Time, a quarter of an hour to poach. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Quenelles of Rabbit. Cut the meat from a boiled rabbit, and carefully remove every particle of skin and sinew. Pound it till smooth, and press it through a sieve. Put a calf's udder into a stewpan'with as much cold water as will cover it. Let it boil gently, and when it is done enough, take it out and let it cool. Trim away the upper parts, cut it up small, pound it in a mortar, and then press it through a sieve. Chop up six small mushrooms, and put them into a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of an egg, the peel of a quarter of a thinly-sliced lemon, a chopped shallot, a pinch of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of chop]oed parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Steam these ingredients over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Soak the ci'umb of two French rolls in milk. When quite soft, put them into a napkin, and squeeze the moisture from them. Put them into the stc v[ an with the seasoning, add a table-spoonful of white sauce, and beat the mixture over a gentle fire until it is quite dry and leaves the saucepan with the spoon. Take it from the fire, and mix with it the yolk of an egg. Put the panada, the calf's udder that has passed through the sieve, and the pounded meat into a cool place, and leave them for an hour. To make the quenelles, take an equal quantity (not weight) of each of the three, pound together with a whole egg, and press the mixture through a sieve. Poach a little piece in boiling water, and if it is properly seasoned, firm, and light, mould the quenelles. Poach them in boiling water, servo on a hot dish, pouring over them good white sauce flavoured with mushrooms. Poach the quenelles till they are firm, wliich will be in from three to twelve minutes, according to size. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to lOd. i)er pound. Quenelles, Bagout of. Take half a pound of any kind of dressed meat, game, or poultrj'. Cut it small, and pound it in a mortar. l Iix with it its weight in bread-crumbs, and add a salt-spoonful of chopped parslej', a salt-spoonful of thin lemon-rLad, cut very small, half an anchovy, boned and pounded, a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and half a clove of garlic, if liked. Pound these ingTcdicnts thorougUy. J\ILx them up -ndth an ounce of clarified butter, and when cool, bind the mixture together with the yolk of an ogg. Make it into balls the size of a walnut; fry these in hot fat, drain them, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a rich brown gravy. If liked, the quenelles may be poached in boiling water instead of being fried in fat, and white sauce, in which a few mushrooms have been boiled, can be pom-ed on. The juice of a lemon should be squeezed over before the sauce is poured upon them. Time to poach or fry the quenelles, five to ten minutes, or until they are firm. Probable cost, exclusive of the gravy, Is. Sufficient for a small dish. ? Quince. The common quince is a hard and austere fruit ; when stewed with sugar, however, it becomes uncommonly pleasant, and in this way is often eaten alone, and often to impai-t a flavour to apple pies. It is also much used to make a preserve known as Quince THE QUINCE Marmalade. A delicious beverage, something like cider, is also made from it. The seeds readily impart their mucilage to water, and will convert forty or fifty times their weight in water into a sulDstance thick as syrup. The quince was gro%vn by the ancient Greeks and Romans ; in our own day it is cultivated in the South of Europe, in England, and in temperate climates generally. Quinces are peculiar for the strong odour which they exhale : this odour is a sign that they are fit for use. On accoimt of it, the fruit should not be kept closely shut QUI (679) QUI up in a place where it is likely to }je felt unpleasantly. Quince and Apple Marmalade. Take a pint of quince juice, prepared as directed in a succeeding recipe {sec Quince Juice). Put it into a preserving-pan, with one pound of nicely-flavoured apples, pared, cored, and quartered, and simmer gently until the apples are quite soft. Lift the pan from the fire, and stir in three-quarters of a pound of finely-sifted sugar: when this is dissolved, put the pan again upon the fire, and boil the marmalade quickly for twenty minutes, taking care to stir it well, or it will burn. Turn it while hot into glasses or jars, and cover in the usual way. Store in a cool dry place. Time to boil the apples, one hour. Quince Blancmange. Pare two orthree pounds of quinces without coring them, and throw them into cold water as soon as they are done. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan, with as much cold water as will cover them, let them simmer gently until tender, and turn them into a bowl. The next day strain the juice through a jelly-bag, and put it, when clear, into a saucepan, and with each pint put one and a half ounces of isinglass or gelatine, and half a pound of loaf sugar, or a little more, if that is not enough to uit the taste. Simmer all gently together until the isinglass is dissolved, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Poui- the blancmange out, and stir into it, very gradually, half a pint of thick sweet cream : continue to stir imtil it is almost cold. Pour it into a mould that has been soaked in cold water, and put it in a cool place, or upon ice, untn. set. Time, half an hour to boil the quince 'juice with the isinglass. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Quince Cakes. Wash the quinces without peeling, boil them in just enough water to barely cover them till they are quite soft, and then rub them through a coarse sieve. Mix a pound and a half of pounded sugar with each quart of juice, and make it as hot as possible without boiling it. Spread it out upon shallow dishes, and dry in a cool oven or before the fire. Cut the fruit into small Quince Cakes (another way). Peel half a dozen quinces, remove the cores, and boil the fruit in a pint of the syrup of quinces, and the same quantity of sjTup of raspberries, imtil it becomes reduced to pulp ; then strain through a coarse sieve. To this pulp add three spoonfuls of loaf sugar, and boil it down till it is ready to candy. Make the pulp into cakes, and dry these on tin plates in a cool oven. Quince Cheese. Boil the quinces, and rub them to a pulp, as in the last recipe. Weigh this pulp and also an equal weight of sugar. I5oil the fruit till it is dry; pound the sugar, stir it, and keep stirring over a gentle fire until the jam is stiff and smooth, and so dry that it leaves the sides of the saucepan with a spoon. Spread it out on shallow dishes, or make little paper cases pour the fruit in to the depth of half an inch, and, if necessary, dry in a cool oven until the fruit is quite stiff. If the cheese has been spread on dishes, cut it into fancy shapes, and store these in a tin box between sheets of writing paper. If paper cases are used they can be taken off easily if they are dipped for a moment in cold water. Quince Cream. Take some ripe quinces, roast them, remove the cores, and cut them into thin slices. Boil the quinces in a pint of cream, with ginger, then strain and flavour with loaf sugar. Quince Custard. Pare the quinces, and simmer them gently till they are tender in as much water as will barely cover them. Pour oft' the juice, and strain it through a jelly -bag. Boil a pint of it with five oiinces of loaf sugar, and mix it very gradually whilst hot with the yolks of ten well-beaten eggs. Poirr the custard into a heated jug, put this into a saucepan of hot water, and stii- over the fire until the custard begins to thicken. Pour it into glasses, and it is ready for serving. Sufficient for a pint and a half of custard. Quince Jelly. Choose quinces that are ripe and yellow, but quite sound. Wash, but do not peel them, cut them into slices, and put them into a preserving pan. Shake them well down, barely cover them with water, and let them boil gently until they are soft, but they must not be allowed to remain so long as to deepen their colour. Turn them into a jelly-bag, and let the juice drain from them without pressure : filter it two or three times, if necessary, till it is clear and bright. Measure the juice, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes. Take it from the fire, and stir into it, until dissolved, twelve ounces of powdered lump sugar for each pint of juice. Boil it again, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it boil until it will jelly when a little is put upon a plate. Pour it at once into glasses or small moulds. The jeUy ought to boil quickly, or the colour will not be good. The pulp left in the jelly-bag may be boiled with moist sugar for common use ; half a pound of sugar will be sufficient for each pound of pulp. Time, twenty minutes to boil the juice by itself ; ten or fifteen minutes to boil it with the sugar, or till it jellies. Quince Jelly (another way). Take one quart of quince juice, and add to it one pound of loaf sugar; boil until it candies. Boil it again with a pint of white wine in which an ounce of gum arable has been dissolved, and pour it into pots or glasses. When cold it will set to a solid jelly. Quince Jelly (another way). Cut thirtysix quinces into small bits, with about two quarts of water ; let them boil slowly tiU the fruit is quite in a mash ; keep them covered close, and let about a third boil away. Eun the liquor through a jelly-bag, and put to every pint a pound of fine white sugar; put into a preserving pan, and boil till thick. It should be boiled till its consistency is such, that when cold it may turn out of the mould to be used. Br. Kitchiner. QUI ( 680 ) QUI Quince Juice. Pare, core, and quarter some very ripe quinces. Put them into an earthen jar, with a pint of cold water for each pound of fruit. Cover the jar closely, place it in a saucepan of water, and let the fruit steam gently until it is broken. Then lift the jar out of the water, remove the cover, and leave the fruit untouched until the next day. Turn it into a jelly-bag, and strain the juice until it is clear and bright, when it wiU be ready for use. The pulp may be boiled with moist sugar for common use. If the quinces are allowed to boil too long their colour \vill be spoilt. Quince Juice (another way) . Take some ripe quinces, peel and grate them ; then squeeze the juice through a cloth. Have ready some sugar boiled to a syrup, put in the juice, and let it boil tiU it jellies, which may be known by putting a spoonful on a ]Aa,te to cool. The proportion of sugar to be used is half a pound to every pint of juice. Quince Kernels. The kernels of quinces should be ciirefully preserved and dried, and when required will make a soothing poultice for bums and scalds. To prepare it, soak a few in water. They will shortly form a kind of jelly, and this should be applied to the injured part. Quince Liqueur. Wash and dry some ripe quinces, and core, but do not peel them. Grate them on a coarse grater. Spread the fruit on a large dish, sprinkle powdered and sifted sugar lightly over it, and let it lie for twenty-four hours. Turn the whole into a hair sieve which rests upon two sticks placed across a basin; strain the juice until it is quite clear. Measure this, and with each pint of juice put half a pound of refined sugar, and a pint of brandy or whiskey. Let the liqueur stand for a fortnight, shaking it each day. Bottle for use. Quince Marmalade. When quinces emit their peculiar strong odour it is a sign that they are fit for use. Peel the quinces, core them, slice them into a preserving-pan, and pour over them as much water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer very gently until they are soft, stirring them occasionally to keep them from burning to the pan ; then beat them to a pulp with a wooden spoon. Weigh the fniit, and for each pound allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will moisten it, and boil it to a clear syrup. Put in the fruit, and boil it slowly till it is smooth and tliick. Stir frequently whilst it is being boiled. The mannalade will be done enough when it will jelly when dropped upon a plate. Put it, whilst hot, into glasses or jars, and when it is cool, cover in the usual way, with paper dipped in the white of egg. Time, five hours or more. Quince Marmalade (another way). Pare some quinces that are quite ripe, cut them into quarters, core thorn, and put them into a saucepan ; cover them with the parings ; fill the saucepan nearly full of spring water, cover it close, and let the quinces stew over a slow fire till soft and of a pink colour ; then pick out all the quinces from the parings ; beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar or wooden bowl ; put the same weight of fine loaf sugar as there is pulp into as much of the water they were stewed in as will dissolve the sugar. Boil and skim well, then put in the pulp of the quinces ; boil gently for three-quarters of an hour, stirring aU the time, or the marmalade will stick to the pan and bum. Put it in pots, and tie down close. Quince Marmalade (another way). Take quinces that are quite lipe, pare, cut them into quarters, taking out the core, and put them into a stewpan, with spring water enough to cover them. Keep them closely covered, and let them stew gently till they are quite soft and red, then mash and rub them through a hair .sieve. Put them in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much clarified sugar as the weight of the quinces. Boil for an hour, stiiTing all the time, to keep the marmaladefrom sticking. Put it into pots, and tie down when cold. Quince Marmalade, Superior. Take some ripe quinces, wash them, and put them whole into a preserving-pan, with as much boiling water as will cover them. Let them simmer gently until they are so soft that they can be easily pierced with a pin. Lift them out, peel and core them, put the cores and skins back into the water, and boil until it is considerably reduced, then strain it. Cut the fruit into thin slices. Weigh these with an equal weight of refined sugar. Put them \vitli the sugar into a preserving pan, pour over them the strained liquor, boil the whole slowly over a gentle fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till it is thick and smooth. In order to ascertain whether or not it is done enough put a little every now and then upon a plate, and when it jellies it is done. Put it, whilst hot, into glasses or jars, and cover in the usual way. Time, five hours or more. Quince Paste, for Dessert. Take some ripe quinces, pare, core, and quarter them, and boil them until they are soft in as much water as will barely cover them. Lift them out, drain them, and rub them through a sieve. Stir the pulp over a clear fire until it forms a dry paste. Weigh it, mix with it its weight in powdered and sifted sugar, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire until it is firm, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Press it into shallow pans, and when it is cold stamp it out into shapes, and,' if necessary, dry these in a cool oven imtil they are entirely free from moisture. Store in tin boxes between sheets of writing paper. The paste may, if liked, be more strongly flavoured by boiling the fruit in quince juice instead of water. Time, foiu- to five hours. Quince Pie. Line the edges of a pie-dish with a short paste. Fill the dish with quinces, pared, cored, and quartered, .sprinkle a little sugar on the top, and add a pinch of grated lemon-peel. Moisten the edges, cover the dish with 'pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. Sift a little powdered sugar over the pie before sending it to table. Time to bake, according to size. QUI (681 ) QUI Qviince Pudding. Take six or eight large ripe quinces. Pare, core, and quarter them, and jiut them into a saucepan, with as much boiling water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently until soft. Press them through a sieve, sweeten the pulp, and flavour with lemon, cinnamon, or ginger. When it is cool, stir into it a pint of thick cream and the well -beaten yolks of three eggs. Line a pie-dish with good puff paste, pour in the prepared quince, and hake in a moderate oven. Sift white sugar thickly over the pudding before sending it to table. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for live or six persons. Quince Snow (for Dessert). Take some fine fresh quinces, and boil them till tender. Peel, cut them into slices, and mash them. Weigh out an equal quantity of sugar. To every pound of quinces, take the whites of three eggs beat up, and add them one after the other, turning always the same way. After each addition, add also a spoonful of sugar. Continue beating till the whole is white and frothy : the longer it is beaten the better the snow will be. Spread it upon wafer-paper in any shapes you please, and let the snow dry in the sun. Quince Tart. Put one pound of sugar into a brass pan, pour over it a pint of water, and boil the sugar to a sjTup. Slice a pound of quinces into it, and let all boil till it becomes a marmalade, stirring all the time. Next take six ounces of chopped almonds, two ounces of citron, the peel of two lemons cut very thin, or grated together with the juice of the lemons. Let all boil up ; cover a baking-plate with wafer-paper, pour it over, and make it smooth. "When the tart is baked, beat up the juice of two lemons vith pounded sugar till it is white like ice ; cover the tart with it, and let it dry in a cool ovi n. Quince Wine. This is made by mixing one quart of the juice of quinces with one pound of sugar, and then suffering the liquid to ferment. By adding to the same quantity one pint of the best French brandy and four ounces of sugar, a celebrated liqueur is prepared on the Continent, which used to be greatly prized as a cordial and stomachic when taken in small quantities say two or three spoonfuls at a time. Quince Wine (another way). Take twelve quinces, cut them in slices, and boil for a quarter of an hour in a gallon of water. Then add two pounds of lump sugar; fei-ment, and add one gallon of lemon- wine, and one part of spirit. Quinces, Brandied. Weigh some ripe quinces, and allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of fruit. Wash the quinces, put them, without paring them, into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will barely cover them, and let them simmer gentlj' until they are so soft that a pin can be easily stuck into them ; di-ain them, and put them aside. Boil the sugar with as much water as will moisten it, and when bubbles form in it put in the quinces ; let them boil up once, and put them aside until the next day. Pour the syrup from them, and put them into widemouthed bottles. Boil the syrup until it is thick and clear, let it get cold, and mix with it an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this liquor over the fruit, tie bladders over the mouths of the bottles, and store in a cool dry place. Quinces, Preserved. Take some quinces, cut them into small pieces, and boil them in a quart of water, to which one spoonful of salt and the same quantity of honey has been added, until the water tastes strongly of quinces ; then add a quart of white wine vinegar. Now lay the quinces it is wished to preserve at the bottom of an earthenware jar, and pour the above liquor over them. Put into jars, and cover closely. Quinces, Preserved (another way). Soak the quinces before they are quite rijje in salt and water for twenty-foiu- hours. Then take them out, dip them in a hot pickle of white wine vinegar, salt, mace, cloves, and bay-leaves boiled together, and then preserve them in a stone jar, covered with vinegar. Quinces, Preserved Whole. Pare some ripe quinces, and scoop out the cores without opening the fruit. Put them intO' boiling water, and let them simmer gently until they are tender without being broken. Drain them, put them aside to cool, and boil the liquor with a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit ; pour it over the quinces, and let them remain until the next day. Add to the syrup as much apple jelly as will cover the fruit. Dissolve it with the sjTup, and put the quinces into it. Let them boil quickly until they look clear, then put them into glasses. Put a small portion of the liquor upon a plate, and if it will jelly when cold, it is ready for pouring over the fruit ; if not, it must be boiled until it will do so. If no apple jelly is at hand, it may be made as follows : Take some fine golden pippins or small crab apples, rub them with a soft cloth, and put them, without paring them,, into a preserving-pan, with as much water as vnll barely cover them. Let them simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, two or three times if necessary, until it is quite clear, and boil it, with a pound of sugar for every pint of liquor, imtil it vill jelly when a little is put upon a plate, it is then ready for use. If liked, quince juice may be used instead of apple jelly to cover the fruit. To make this, cut up some small quinces without coring or paring them, and boil them in as much water as will cover them until the liquor is strongly flavoured with them. Strain the juice, and boil it, with a pound of sugar to each pint, until it will jelly. If when the quinces are being boiled in the jelly they seem likely to break, they must be lifted one by one carefully out of the sjTup, put into a jar, and the s\Tup poured over them, then boiled again the next day. Time, two or three days. Quinces, Ratafia of (a French recipe). Grate rij e quinces till you come to the core, but be careful there are no pips. Let the mass remain for thiee days in an eai-then pan : squeeze it to extract all the juice ; measure it, and QUI ( 682 ) BAB add to it an equal quantity of brandy. Allow six ounces of sugar to each quart of the mixture, Avitli some cinnamon and cloves to taste. Let it infuse for two months, then filter it, and pour it into bottles. This liqueur, when old, is excellent. i. Voii Kochheim. Quin's Sauce (An old-fashioned fish sauce). Put a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of port, half a pint of mushroom ketchup, a dozen anchovies, boned and pounded, a dozen sliced shallots, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of soy. Simmer all gently for ten minutes, strain the sauce, and, when cold, bottle for use. Securely corked and stored in a cool place, the sauce will keep for some time. Quin's Sauce (another way). To a quart of walnut pickle add six anchovies, six bayleaves, six shallots, three cloves, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a dozen peppercorns. Boil the whole until h( anchovies are dissolved. Take it off the fire, when cold, add half a pint of red wine, and bottle the sauce, corking the bottles well. Quin's Sauce (another way). To half a pint of mushroom ketchup add a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle, three anchovies, two cloves of garlic pounded, and as much cayenne pepper as will cover a shilling. Put it into a bottle and shake it well ; it is then fit for use. It must be kept in a well-corked bottle. Quin's Sauce (another way). The following is Ur. Kitehiner's recipe for this sauce : "It was given me," he says, "by a very sagacious sauce-maker." Two wine-glassfuls of port and two of walnut pickle, four of mushroom ketchup, half a dozen of anchovies pounded, the like nmnber of eschalots sliced and pounded, a table-spoonful of soy, and half a drachm of cayenne pepper. Let them simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, and, when cold, put it into bottles well corked and sealed over ; it will keep for a considerable time. Rabbit. There are two sorts the tame and the wild. Tame rabbits are the larger of the two, with the flesh white and delicate. Of these the Ostend I'abbits are most highly valued. "Wild rabbits are considered to possess the finest flavoiu-. Rabbits are highly esteemed for food, and are valuable because they can be seiwed in so many ways. As the meat is rather dry, bacon is generally served with them. When used for the table, they should be young, and should not have been kept more than a day or two. They have been more thought of of late years than they used to be, probably becaiise in theu' wild state thej are less plentiful than formerly, in consequence of the advance of agriculture, and the employment of light lands for more profit- able purposes than rabbit-warrens. M. Ude gives some additional particulars on this head : "It is to be observed," he says, "that warren rabbits only ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no Havoui- but that of cabbage ; and you must be particular in using for table only young rabbits. Whether they are so may be ascertained by breaking, the jaAv between the thumb and finger ; if they are old, they resist the pressure. Also by feehng in the joint of the paw for a little nut ; if it is gone, the rabbit is old and not fit for fine cookery. In such cases use them to make rabbit puddings or pies." . K Rabbit (a la Minute). Cut a fresh young rabbit into neat joints. Dissolve two or three ounces of butter in a stewpan, put in the pieces of rabbit, and turn them about until they are lightly browned all over. Pour over them as much stock or water as will cover them, and add a little pepper and salt, a blade of mace, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, and three or four mushrooms if these are to be had. Let aU simmer gently together until the rabbit is done enough, and, ten minutes before it is taken from the fire, thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Serve very hot. A glassful of sherry may be added to the sauce or not. Time altogether, forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. SuflBcient for two or three persons. Rabbit (a la Poulette). Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat joints convenient for serving. Lay these in a pie-dish, cover with equal parts of milk and water, and let them soak for an hour or two; this will render them juicy and tender. Drain them, put them into a stewjaan, pour over them as much boiling white stock or water as wiU cover them, and add a tea-spoonful of salt half a teaspoonful of white pepper, a bimch of parsley, two small button onions, a blade of mace, and six or eight mushrooms. Let the sauce boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer very gently indeed for half an hour. Take up the meat, and set it aside for a short time. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly until it is reduced one-third. Stir into it two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, put in the pieces of rabbit, and let them remain until they are hot RAB ( 683 ) RAB through, but the sauce must not boil after the meat is put in a second time. Arrange the rabbit in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon. A glassful of light wine may be added to the sauce or not. Time altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rabbit (a la Tartare). A French recipe. Take a rabbit, and bone it. Then cut it into pieces, which marinade some hours in parsley, naushi'ooms, chives, and a clove of garlic, all chopped fine, together with pepper, salt, and oil ; dip each piece of rabbit in bread-crumbs, broil, sprinkling the pieces with the marinade. Serve in a sauce a la Tartare {see Tartar Sauce). Probable cost, rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit and Eel, Matelote of . Take a plump young rabbit, a fine eel, and three or four slices of bacon. Skin, empty, and wash the rabbit, cut it into small joints, and if the head is to be used, split it in halves, and take out the eyes. Skin and empty the eel, and di de it into short lengths. Fry the rabbit and eel in hot fat, together with the bacon cut into dice, till all are brightly bro\\Tied and half cooked ; take them up, set them aside, and in the same fat frj half a dozen button onions or two moderate-sized onions sliced, and a dozen button mushrooms if these are to be had. When these also are browned, put them in a clean saucepan with the fried rabbit and eel, and mix as much flour with the hot fat as is required to make a smooth paste. Moisten this with stock or water to make gravy of the consistency of cream, put into this the fried meat, onions, and mushrooms, and add the liver and heart of the rabbit, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt if required. Simmer aU gently together till the rabbit is tender. When done enough, pile the rabbit in the centre of a dish, arrange the pieces of eel and the bacon round it, and keep the meat hot. Strain the gravy, put a glassful of wine into it, boil it down till it is smooth and thick, and pour it it over the meat. Serve immediately. "When mushi'ooms are not at hand, a tea-spoonful of anchovy and a spoonful of bruised capers, or three or four gherkins chopped small, may be stirred into the sauce by way of a substitute. This recipe may be used for a rabbit alone, or an eel alone, as well as for the two together. Time, half an hour to simmer the rabbit, &c. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound ; eel, very variable. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Rabbit, Baked. Skin, di-aw, and wash thoroughly a young rabbit, and, if convenient, let it lie in milk and water for an hour or two. Drain it, and cut it up into small neat joints convenient for ser\'ing. Pepper these lightly, place them in a single layer in a baking-tin, and cover each piece with a rasher of bacon. Put the tin into a moderateh -hcated oven, and bake the rabbit until it is done enough. Ai-range the rabbit and bacon alternately in a circle on a hot dish, and pour the gravj' in the tin over them. Serve very hot, with mashed potatoes as an accompaniment. Time to bake, from three-quarters of an hoiu to one hour. Probable coat, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one rabbit for two or thi-ec persons. Rabbit, Baked (another way). Take a plump young rabbit. Skin, empty, and wash it, line the inside with slices of fat bacon, and fill it with good veal forcemeat. Sew it up secui-cly, and truss it firmly, with the hind legs backward, the back legs forward, and the head in an upright position. Lay a shce of fat bacon over the back, and put the rabbit in a deep dripping-tin, then lay three or four lumps of butter or di-ipping upon it, and place it in a moderate oven. AVhen it is almost done enough, dredge a little flour over it, baste it again, and set it in the oven to brown. Lift it upon a hot dish, remove the skewers, pour a spoonful' or two of good brown gravy over it, and send some moi'e to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with slices of fat bacon. If liked, redcurrant jelly may accompany the baked rabbit. Time to bake, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour ; less if the rabbit is small. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rabbit, Baked, and Macaroni. Cut a rabbit into joints, or truss it if preferred; butter it well, and lay it in a baking-dish on some slices of ham. Place it in a moderatelyheated oven, and let it remain there, basting now and then with more butter. Take a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, break it in j)ieGes about two inches in length, and throw these into a stewpan of boning stock. Let the macaroni simmer till tender, then strain it ; mix with it one ounce of white sugar, and two ounces of fresh butter, season to taste, and add to the rabbit a table-spoonful of brandy and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Place the macaroni in the dish with the rabbit, bake until the macaroni is of a pleasant bro-(vn colour, and send to table in the dish in which the rabbit was baked. Time, the rabbit must have been at least half an hour in the oven before the addition of the macaroni. Rabbit, Baked, with Rice.- Cut up a fat young rabbit into neat joints, and pepper these rather highly. Dissolve three or four ounces of bacon fat or good dripping in a saucepan, put in the pieces of rabbit, and let them steam over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned and half di-essed. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside. Wash half a pound of rice, and put it into a saucepan with a quart of nicely-flavoured stock and half a blade of mace. Let it simmer until it is tender and has absorbed the liquor, then let it cool, and stir in with it a large slice of fresh butter and the yolks of four eggs. Butter a deep dish, lay the pieces of rabbit into it, pour over them a large spoonful of chutnee, and then spread the rice on the top. Lay the beaten yolks of two Q ?, upon the rice, and bake the preparation in a brisk oven. Serve very hot in the dish in which it was baked. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rabbit, Boiled. This is the usual and one of the most acceptable ways of di-essing BAB (684 ) HAB rabbits. Choose moderately young rabbits, skin, draw, and wash them. Truss them with the heads skewered to the sides, drop them into boiling water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Drain them, and serve either with onion, liver, white, or mushroom sauce, or parsley and butter. The first of these is generally preferred. .Send boiled bacon to table with the boiled rabbits, or garnish the dish with rashers of broiled bacon. The flesh of a boiled rabbit will be rendered more juicy and tender if it is soaked in milk and water for a couple of hours before being boiled. Its flavour, too, will be improved if an onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt are put into the water with it. Time to simmer the rabbits, thirty to fortj -five minutes, according to age and size. A very young rabbit will be done enough in twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Suflicient, two rabbits for five or six persons. Rabbit, Boiled (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe). Truss the rabbits short, lay them in a basin of warm water for ten minutes, then put them into plenty of water, and boil them about half an hoiu- ; if large ones, three quarters ; if vcrij old, an hour; smother them with plenty of white onion sauce, mince the liver, and lay it round the dish, or make liver sauce, and send it up in a boat. Ask those you are going to make liver sauce for, if they like plain liver sauce, or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce. It will save much trouble to the carver if the rabbits be cut up in the kitchen into pieces fit to serve at table, and the head divided, one half laid at each end, and slices of lemon and the liver chopped very finely laid on the sides of the dish. At all events, cut o?B the head before you send it to table. We hardly remember that the thing ever lived if we do not see the head, while it may e.xcite ugly ideas to see it cut up in an attitude imitative of life ; besides, for the preservation of the] head the poor animal sometimes suffers a slower death. Rabbit, Boiled, and Onions. Take one or two rabbits, skin them, and skewer as for boiling ; put them into warm water in order to extract all the blood; when they are very white, boil in boiling water and a little salt. An hour is sufficient to boil them if they are young. Make the sauce as follows : Peel a dozen white onions, cut off the tops and tails, then cut them into six pieces each, put them to boil in boiling water and a little salt ; when nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them into a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then chop them very fine ; put them into a stewpan with half a quarter of a pound of butter, let them fry to drain the water away ; then put half a spoonful of flour, mix well together, and moisten with cream or milk, but cream is preferable ; next let this sauce boil down on a sharp fire, put some salt and pepper to it, and make it rather thick. Drain the rabbits, and cover fhem with this sauce. Udc. Rabbit, Boiled, To Carve. First separate the legs and shoulders; then cut the baak across into two parts. This may readily I be accomplished by inserting the knife in the ' joint, and raising up the back with the fork. As in the case of the hare, the back of the rabbit is best worth eating. Some liver-sauce should always be served with boiled rabbit. EABBIT, BOILED, TO CARVE. Rabbit, Boudins of. Take the white flesh of a rabbit. Free it from skin and sinew, mince finely, pound well, and make into a delicate forcemeat, by mixing with each pound of meat two ounces of butter, one ounce of fat bacon, and a dessert-spoonful of flour. Season the forcemeat with salt, pepper, and pounded mace, flavour with dressed onions or mushrooms finely minced, and bind it together with one or two yolks of eggs. Beat till it is quite smooth. Spread it on a dish, and foi-m the forcemeat into small sausages. Put these into a stewpan, cover with boiling stock, and let them simmer gently until the forcemeat is set. Drain them, dish them in a circle, pour over them some nicely-flavoured brown sauce, and serve very hot. If liked, two or thi-ee potmded potatoes, or a small portion of panada, may be mixed with the forcemeat ; if so the flour should be omitted. This is a convenient way of using the remains of cold dressed rabbit. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the boudins. I'robable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit, Boudins of (a la Keinc). Prei are in the same manner as croquettes (.wc Rabbit, Croquettes of: M. Ude's way); roll the meat into large boudins, sausage shape, dip into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them. Serve under them some veloute, with a little glaze of game. For croquettes or boudins a la rchic, made of fowls, rabbits, or game, if j'ou should have by you some sweetbreads, they will be a great improvement, as they make them more mellow and delicate. Rabbit, Broiled (a la Maintenon). Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat joints convenient for serving. Put these into a stewpan, pour over them as much good stock as will barely cover them, and put with them a bunch of parsley, one or two sticks of celery, two onions, a blade of mace, a sliced carrot, six or eight peppercorns, and half a dozen mushrooms. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, drain them, and let them cool. Cut as many pieces of writing-paper as there are pieces of rabbit, butter these, and lay inside each one a piece of fat bacon. Lay the rabbit on this, and sprinkle over it a little white pepper and grated nutmeg. Fold the paper round the meat, and broil the pieces of rabbit over a clear fire until the bacon has had time to cook sufficiently. Serve in the papers. Thicken the RAB ( 685 ) BAB yravy with a little brown thickening, and send it to table in a tureen. Time to broil the rabbit, ten minutes. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rabbit Cake (a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish). Take the white meat from two young rabbits. Put the bones into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, add an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt, and let these ingredients stew gently until the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain, thicken with a Little flour and butter, stir one or two spoonfuls of cream into the gravj , and let it boil until it is smooth and of the consistency of custard. Take the weight of the meat in fat bacon, cut this into small pieces, and melt these in a saucepan over a gentle fire. In two or three minutes put the pieces of rabbit into the pan with them, accompanied by a bunch of parslej', a sprig of thjTue, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper, and stir all with a wooden spoon until the meat is sufficiently dressed. Turn the contents of the saucepan into a mortar with half the quantity of panada {see Panada), pound all together to a smooth paste, and rub this through a hair sieve. Moisten the forcemeat with a small quantity of the sauce made from the bones, and bind it together with the yolks of two or three eggs. Taste the forcemeat, to ascertain whether or not it is pleasantly flavoured, and, if further seasoning is required, pound the mixture again after it is added. A few mushi-ooms or trufiles cut small may be added if liked. Butter two round moulds of different sizes, and press the forcemeat into these. Cover them, put them into a large pan containing boiling water three or four inches deep, and keep this boiling until the forcemeat is sufficiently cooked. Let it get cold. When wanted, turn the larger cake upon a dish, put the smaller cake on the top of it, and place a ring of clear aspic jelly on the top of all. Garnish the dish with aspic jelly cut into dice, and, if liked, place a border of rice round the cake. When prettily ornamented it is ready for serving. Time to boil the cakes, half an hour to an hour and a quarter, according to size. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Rabbit, Cold, To Dress. Joint the meat, beat up an egg or two with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, some parsley minced fine, and some bread-crumbs ; dip the meat into the batter, sprinkle with crumbs, have readj' some sweet beef-dripping hot in a pan, and fry the meat to a light brown ; thicken a httle gravy wnth flour, put a large spoonful of ketchup to it, lay the fry in a hot dish, pour the gi-avy round it, not over it, and serve hot ; garnish with lemon and toast. Rabbit, Croquettes of. Pick the meat from the remains of roast rabbit, and free it from skin and sinew. Mince finely, adding to it a third of its weight in lean ham, and season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter and one or two table-spoonfuls of thick cream or white sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Taste if it be nicely seasoned, and spread it on a dish to cool. If liked, one or two mushrooms or truffles can be added to the forcemeat. Divide the preparation into portions of an equal size, mould these into the shape of corks or balls, brush over with oil, roU them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them, sprinkle a little salt over them, pile them on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. If liked, tomato or piquant sauce can be sent to table in a tureen. Time to fry, five to seven minutes. Rabbit, Croquettes of (M. Tide's way). Cut the meat of young roasted rabbits into dice, which throw in some bechamel boiled down, adding a little glaze of game. Let this cool, then roll it into whatever shape you please, either into balls, or into the shape of a cork or pear. Fry the croquettes, and send up as other croquettes ; garnish with fried parsley in the centre of the dish. It is necessary to observe respecting croquettes, or any other articles made use of in cookery-, that the less you handle them the better. Put the preparation of the croquettes in a flat long dish; level it with the knife till you have it the thickness required : mark with the knife the number of croquettes you intend to make. Then take them off the dish, roll them in your hand as little as possible, put them in the crumbs of bread, and roll the magain in the omelet (eggs beat with a little salt), and make them of equal sizes in a cover of a stewpan till such time as you wish to frj- them, and serve very hot. Rabbit, Curried. Take two fresh young rabbits and half a pound of streaky bacon. Cut the bacon into small squares, and divide the rabbit into pieces convenient for serving. Fry the bacon in two ounces of butter. As the pieces of bacon brown take them out and lay them on a separate dish ; put in the pieces of rabbit, brown them also, and lift them out : then fry in the fat three or four sliced onions and two sour apples finely minced. Vhen these are soft, rub them patiently through a sieve, and mix the pulp very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a dessertspoonful of cun-y powder, half a tea-spoonful of flour, and a pint of stock, or, failing this, a pint of water and half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat. Put the gravy into a stewpan with the rabbit and bacon, and let aU simmer very gently together until the rabbit is sufficiently cooked, which it will be when the flesh leaves the bone easily. Pile the rabbit on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve with rice boiled for curry on a separate dish. The flavour of this dish, which is a common one and a general favourite, may be varied in many ways. A little celery or a few mushrooms may be simmered with the gravy, or a clove of garlic may be added when the flavouring is liked, or a little fresh cocoa-nut may be rasped and stewed with it, or a cupful of milk or cream may be added to the sauce. If the apples are not at hand the juice of a lemon may be substituted for them. Time to stew the rabbit, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. BAB BAB Babbit Curry {sec Fowl, Veal, or Kabbit Curry) . Babbit en Papillotes (a French recipe). Take some young and tender rabbits, cut them into joints, and let them marinade some hours in parsley, mushrooms, chives, and a clove of garhc, all chopped line, together with pepper, salt, and oil. Cover each piece of rabbit with some of this seasoning and a slice of bacon cut very thin ; wrap each separately in well-buttered white jjaper ; broil over a gentle fire, and serve in the paper as hot as possible. Probable cost, rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Babbit, Fricandeau of. Take the fleshy portion of a large fat rabbit that is, the hind-quarters and the loins cut off close to the shoulder-blades. Lard the flesh evenly and closely, and lay it in a deep baking-dish. Pour upon it as much nicely-flavoured stock as will cover it, fasten a piece of buttered paper over the dish, and bake the rabbit in a moderate oven until it is quite tender, being careful to baste it frequently, and to add a little more stock if required. Lift the rabbit out of the gravy, and iieep it hot. Boil the liquor quickly in which it was baked till it begins to thicken. Have ready a tea-cupful of rich tomato sauce. Spread tliis on a hot dish. Lay the rabbit upon it, pass a red hot shovel over the larding, to make it crisp, and pour the gravy over all. Serve very hot. Time to bake the fricandeau, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Babbit, Fricasseed. Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, lay it in a stewjjan, and cover with good stock. Let the liquid boil, then put with it three onions, three carrots, three turnips and thi ee sticks of celery, all sliced; add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a small piece of sugar, and stew all gently together until the vegetables are quite soft. Lift the vegetables out, and rub them through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir the puiee over the fire with a table-spoonful of the gravy for two or three minutes to make it quite hot. Put the pieces of rabbit on a dish, cover with the puree, and pour the sauce over all. Serve very hot. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Babbit, Fricasseed, Brown. Skin, empty, and clean a rabbit, preserving the liver and heart. Lay it in lukewarm water for an hour, drain it, and cut it into neat joints convenient for serving. If it is intended to make use of the head, split it open, and take out the eyes. Dissolve a slice of butter and a slice of lard in a sr.uccpan, and fry the pieces of rabbit in the fat. AVTien they are nicely browned, take them out, and lay them aside. Mince thi-ee onions finely, fry them imtil brown, and put them with the rabbit. Stir a dessert-spoonful of flour into the fat, and beat it with the back of a wooden spoon until it is quite smooth, and of a bright brown colour. Moisten gradually with as much stock or water as is required to make it of the consistency of thick cream, and add to it a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjmie, two bay-leaves, a little salt and pepper, and a clove of garlic, if this is liked. Put in the pieces of rabbit, and let all simmer gently together until the rabbit is sufficiently dressed. Just before the fricassee is served, put into it a glassful of claret or port. Time, one horn-. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Babbit, Fricasseed, White. Skin, empty, and wash a nice young rabbit, and let it soak in lukewarm water for an hour. Drain it, and cut it into neat joints convenient for serving. Put it into a stewj an, pour over it as much wliite stock or water as will barely cover it, and add two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, the peel of half a lemon, and a little salt. Simmer all gently together for thi'ee-quarters of an hour, lift out the pieces of rabbit, and put them aside. jMix a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly with a tea-cupful of milk or cream, add a tea-cupful of the gravy, and put the liquor into a clean saucepan with a slice of butter rolled in flour. Stir it until it boils, then let it simmer gently until it is so tliick that it will coat the spoon. Put the pieces of rabbit into this sauce, and let them get quite hot. Add pepper and salt if required, and at the last moment stir the juice of a lemon into the sauce. Ai-range the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with cut lemon. This fricassee Avill be very much improved if a dozen or more blanched mushi-ooms are simmered -with the gravy ten minutes before it is taken from the fire. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for foui' or five persons. Babbit, Fricasseed, White (another and a superior way). Prepare a rabbit as in the last recipe. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the pieces of rabbit, put them into the saucepan, and with them a dozen button onions and half a pint of blanched mushrooms. Let all simmer gently in the butter for three or four minutes, shaking the saucepan frequently, in order to keep the pieces of rabbit from acquiring any colom-. Dredge two ounces of flour over them, pour on them haK a pint of stock or water, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira, if liked. Lot the fricassee boil, then di-aw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for half an hour, or longer if the rabbit is large. Carefully remove the scmn and the fat as they rise to the surface. Season the gTavy with a little salt and pepper, if required, and add a little grated nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and a lump of sugar the size I of a marble. Beat the yolks of two eggs with a quarter of a pint of cream, take the fiicassee from the fire for one minute, then stir a small portion of the gravy into the cream, and afterwards mix it with the rest. Stir over the fire till it is quite hot, but on no account allow it to boil after the eggs are added. At the last moment stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Arrange the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, place the mushrooms and onions round them, and poiu' the sauce over all. Garnish with cut lemon. Serve very hot. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. BAB (687) RAB Rabbit, Pried. Skin, empty, wash, and soak a young rabbit, and cut it into neat pieces the size of an egg. Flour these well, and fry in plenty of boiling diipping till they are brightly browned, moving them about constantly that they may be equally dressed. Lay a slice of butter on a hot dish, and stir into this a small shallot finely minced, and a table-spoonful of good sauce, with a tea-spoonful of lemon- j uice, if this is liked. Arrange the pieces of rabbit neatly on a dish, and serve very hot. Fried bacon is a suitable accompaniment to this dish. If there is any suspicion that the rabbit is stale, it should be thi-own into boiling water, and kept boiling quickly for five or six minutes, then di-ained, cooled, and cut up as above. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rabbit, Fried (another way). Prepare the rabbit as in the preceding recipe. Put three table- spoonfuls of Lucca oil into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered spice. Let the butter melt, and put in the pieces of rabbit, place the saucepan upon a brisk fire, and stir its contents frequently till they are sufficiently dressed. Lift them out, stii- an ounce of flour into the hot fat, and beat out any lumps that there may be with the back of a wooden spoon. Moisten this with half a pint of nicely-flavoured stock and a glassful of sherry, let it boil for five miautes, and strain it. Put it back into the saucepan with the rabbit, a shallot finely minced, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. AMien the sauce is on the point of boihng, lift out the pieces of rabbit, arrange them neatly on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. Time, twenty minutes to fry the rabbit. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for thi-ee or four- persons. Rabbit, Fried (another way). Prepare the rabbit as before, and cut it up into pieces not larger than a hen's egg. Dip these into beaten egg, and afterwards into nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly bi-owned. Pile them on a hot dish, pour the gravj round them, and serve very hot. The gTavy may be prepared as follows: Wash the liver of the rabbit, and boil it for five minutes, let it get cold, and mince it finel} Simmer an inch or two of lomon-rind in a quarter of a pint of gravy till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and thicken with haK a tea-spoonful of thickening, or, faihng this, with a small lump of butter rolled in flom-. When the sauce is of the proper consistency, stir in the liver and two table-spoonfuls of cream. Let it boil for one minute, and it will be ready for use. If liked, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice may be added just before it is poured round the rabbits, or the cream maj- be omitted, and a table-spoonful of mushi-oom ketchup used instead of it. Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the i-abbits. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rabbit, Galantine of (a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish). Take two plump young rabbits. Cut oft' the heads, entirely remove the bones from both, and fasten slices of fat bacon over one, to cover the outer or skin side of it. Mince the flesh of the other rabbit finely, and with it an equal quantity of fat bacon, and a little pepper and powdered mace. No salt will be required, as it is probable that the bacon will be sufficiently salted. Lay the boned rabbit flat on a table, spread half the forcemeat upon it, arrange on this some strips of ham, tongue, and bacon, together with a truffle or two or a few muslirooms chopped small, if these are at hand, and spread another layer of forcemeat over aU. Sew up the rabbit neatly, as nearly as possible in its original form, fasten it securely that the forcemeat, &c., may not escape, and tie it in a white cloth. Lay two or thiee slices of bacon at the bottom, of a saucepan, place the rolled meat upon these, and add the heads and bones of the rabbit and any other bones there may be, together with two carrots, a large onion stuck with two cloves, a. bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay -leaf, and a Httle pepper and salt. Pour over these ingredients as much good stock as will barely cover them, and simmer all very gently together, carefuUy removing the scum as it rises, until the galantine is done enough, that is, until it can be easily pierced with a skewer. Let the galantine get cold in the liquor in which it was stewed. Lift it out, strain the liquor, boil it down until it is so far reduced that it will form a jelly when cold, and clarify with white of egg. Poiu- this jelly upon plates, that it may set firm, brushing one or two coats of it over the galantine to serve as glaze. Dish the galantine on a white napkin, and garnish with the savoury jelly, cut into dice, cubes, stars, &c. A galantine is always served cold. Time to simmer, thi-ee or four hours. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbits, Giblottes of Take two young rabbits to make a giblotto ; but, observe, they must be both ahke as to quality ; if you put a young one with an old one, the young one will be done to rags, while the other one will be scarcely done at aU. Skin them, and cut them into pieces. Have ready some pieces of breast of bacon cut into the shape of small corks, which are to be blanched so that they may not be briny. Fry them in the stewpan with a little butter to give them a hght brown coloui-. Take the bacon out of the stewpan, and put the members of the rabbits into it : when made firm, take them out also; thi-ow a good handful of flour with the butter into the ste-nqian, let it get a little brown ; ' next moisten with some veal gravy. Let the sauce boil a little, to see whether it is not too thick ; if so, you will never be able to skim off the fat, and accordingly it will never be of a good colour. "WTien sufficiently stewed, put in the members, bacon, a bunch of parsley and green onions, thjTne, bay-leaf, clove, &:c. &c. ; and when the sauce has boiled for an hour, skim it well, and put the members into another clean stewpan, and drain the sauce through a tammy ; then take some turned mushrooms and some small onions, and fry ?m white in butter ; let let them boil for a quarter of an houi' in the RAB ( 688 ) BAB sauce. When you are going to send up to table, first dish the members, next the small white onions, and then put the bacon and the mushrooms over. Take off the fat and scum, otherwise there can be no good cooker} ; and cover the whole with the sauce when reduced. Ude. Rabbit Klosse. Mince finely the white meat of a cold-di-essed rabbit. Soak an equal quantity of bread in cold milk or water, squeeze it diy, and mLx it with the minced meat. Cut one or two slices of fat bacon into small squares, and fry them gently. Add the minced meat, and stir in one or two eggs. Let the mixture cook a few minutes. Turn it out on a dish, and when cool add two more eggs. Form it into balls the size of an egg, and be careful to handle them lightly, and to dip the fingers frequently in water while doing so. When wanted drop these gently into boiling water, and boil them until they are set. Lift them out with a skimmer, pile them in the centre of a small dish, and surround them with fried potatoes. Send any piquant sauce or gravy to table with them. Time to boil, about ten minutes. Rabbit, Larded. Skin, empty, and wash a fat young rabbit, cut oft' its head, and divide the body into four equal parts. Lard the fleshy part of each portion with thin strips of fat bacon, fry the quarters in hot fat till they are lightly browned, and lay them aside. Put about a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured and seasoned stock into a saucepan, thicken with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and let it simmer gently until it is smooth and of the consistency of cream. Stir into it a glassful of sherrj' or madeira, add the rabbit, and let it remain until it is thoroughly hot without boiling. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with cut lemon and parslej'. Time, half an hour, exclusive of the time required for making the stock. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., without the wine. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Rabbit, Marbled (to be eaten coldsuitable for breakfast, luncheon, or supper). Take a couple of fine rabbits. Skin, empty, and wash them ; take out the livers and kidneys, and fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are tender and darkly coloured, then lay them aside. Put the rabbits into boiling water, and let them remain in it for five minutes. This is to blanch them. Take them up, drain them, put them into a stewpan, pour over them as much cold water as will cover them, and add an onion stuck with four cloves, n bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently till tender, and carefully skim the broth. Cut off the heads and necks of the rabbits, lift the flesh from the bones in large neat pieces, and lay these aside. Scrape off the remainder of the meat from the bones, take care of it, and put all the bones into a clean saucepan with the rabbit broth and half an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in cold water. Put into this a small portion of ham or bacon, and let it simmer till done enough, then take it out, and let the gravy simmer till it is reduced to a pint. Strain the gravy through a jelly-bag, carefully clear it from fat, and if necessary clarify it with white of c , and season it well. Mince the scrapings of the meat with an equal quantity of fat bacon, add the weight of the meat in finely -grated breadcrumbs, season the mixture with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and powdered herbs, bind it together with egg, and form it into balls the size of a small nutmeg. Throw these into boiling water till they are set they will take about ten minutes. Dip a deep mould into cold water, pour into this a small portion of the gravy just before it jellies, and let it flow round and round until it begins to set. Arrange the pieces of rabbit in this, together with the ham or bacon cut into stiijjs, the liver and kidney sliced, the forcemeat balls, and one or two hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Be -careful not to pack the ingredients closely, but to leave room for the jelly to flow in amongst them, and also in placing the pieces to contrast the colours, that the mould may look pretty when it is turned out. Pour the jelly overall, and set the mould in a cool place. When wanted, turn it upon a dish, and it is ready for servdng. Time, four or five hours. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufiicient for a large dish. Rabbit, Marinaded and Baked (a Gei-man recipe) . Skin, empty, and wash a fine rabbit, and let it lie for three or four hours in a marinade composed of a glassful of port or claret, a glassful of vinegar, a sliced onion, twenty peppercorns, a bay-leaf, end three pounded cloves. Turn and baste it three or four times. Tie slices of fat bacon across its back, fill it or not with veal forcemeat, lay it in a deep earthen dish, and pour the marinade upon it. Lay some large pieces of dripping upon it, bake in a moderate oven until done enough, and baste thi-ee or four times with the marinade. Half an hour before it is done enough pour a quarter of a pint of new milk over it, and baste the rabbit with this. Place it on a hot dish, take out the skewers, squeeze a little lemon- juice over it, and garnish with slices of lemon. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for fouior five persons. Rabbit, Marinaded and Tried. Cut the rabbit into neat pieces the size of an egg. Lay these in a deep pan with a table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of ravigote or tarragon vinegar, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Let them remain for three hours, turning them about at intervals that they may be equally flavoured. Drain them, roll them in flour, and fry tiU they are lightly browned. Serve very hot, garnish with fried parsley, and send tomata sauce, piquant sauce, or maitre d'hotel sauce to table with them. Time to fiy, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Marinaded, and Fried in Batter. Prepare the rabbit, and let it lie in a marinade as in the last recipe. When making the marinade make at the same time a batter for frying as follows : Work a quarter RAB ( C89 ) RAB of a pint of water unci a pinch of salt into five ounces of flour. ]Mix two table-spoonfuls of oil with the yolks of two eggs, add the mixture to the paste, and beat all together till the batter is quite smooth. It ought to be a little thicker than cream ; if necessary a little water may be added to it, but this will depend upon the fiuality of the floiu-. A few minutes before the batter is to be used add to it the whites of tho eggs beaten to a firm froth. A quarter of an hour before the rabbit is wanted dip each piece into the batter, and fry in hot fat till it is crisp and brightly browned. Serve the pieces on a hot dish, and send tomato, piquant, or maitre d'hotel sauce to table in a tureen. If preferred, the marinaded rabbit can bo dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, instead of batter, before being fried. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, '2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Marinaded and Roasted (a German recii e). Skin, empty, and wash a plump young rabbit, and lay it in a deep dish with a glassful of vinegar, a glassful of port, a sliced onion, twenty peppercorns, a bay-leaf, and three jDOundcd cloves. Let the rabbit lie in this marinade for an hour or two, and turn and baste it two or three times. Fill it with good veal forcemeat, truss firmly, and baste with the maiinade without wiping it at the last moment before putting it to the fire. Put it down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. When done enough lay it on a hot dish, take out the skewers, squeeze over it the juice of half a lemon, serve very hot, and send brown gravy and red currant jelly to table with it. Time to roast, three-quarters of an hour to one hour ; less time if small. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Matelote of (a French recipe). Take a rabbit, cut it up, and fry it in a little butter. Make a roux, which should be thinned with weak souj) and a glassful of white wine. When the liquid boils, jjut in the pieces of rabbit, together with a little bacon cut into dice, a bunch of mixed herbs, and some mushrooms. When about done enough, brown some button onions in butter, moistening with the sauce from the rabbit. Place the rabbit in the centre of the dish, arrange the onions and mushrooms round it, strain the sauce over, and serve. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit, Minced. Take a fat young rabbit, skin, empty, and wash it, and boil it till tender. Lift the flesh from the bones, mince it finely, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, grated peel, and a little lemonjuice. Put it into a saucepan, and stir in with it six ounces of fresh butter and four well-beaten eggs, and continue to stir for a quarter of an hour. Turn it on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. Time to boil the rabbits, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Minced (another way). Take the meat from the remains of a cold-dressed 46 rabbit, free it from skin and sinew, minco finely, and put it aside. Break the bones into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with half a pound of veal cut into small squares, a slice of lean ham, a large spoonful of bacon-fat or lard, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Move them about over the fire for a minute or two, dredge flour thickly over them, and poiu- upon them as much milk as will cover them. Let them simmer gently for an hour, stirring them at intervals. Strain the liquor, boil it till it is quite thick, and keep stii'ring to prevent it burning. Put the minced meat into the sauce, let it get quite hot without boiling, and serve immediately. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Minced (M. Ude's recipe). This is a dish to be made of the remains of a fonner dinner. Take the fiUets of roasted rabbits, pare the sinews; then make a mince, but hold your knife on a slope, that the thin slices may curl like shavings ; put the mince into some reduced veloute or bechamel mixed with some glaze of game ; do not forget to pour into the mince a little thick cream to give it a white colour and make it more mellow. You may put the mince either in a bordure, a vol-auvent, a casserole with rice, a turban, a grenade, a gratin, petits pates, petites casserolettes au ris (little casseroles with rice), &c. See. Rabbit, Mushroom Sauce for. Take a pint of young mushrooms, pit;k, rub, and wash them, and sprinkle them with salt to take off the skin. Put them into a saucepan with a little salt, a blade of mace, a little nutmeg, a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour : boil them up, and stir- tiU done, then pour the sauce into the dish -with the rabbits. If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones, done white, with a little mushroom powder with the cream. Rabbit Pate. Take two young rabbits, bone them, and cut them in pieces. Take half a pound of fresh pork and half a pound of veal fat ; chop these ingredients small, and mix with them a laurel-leaf, a shallot, thyme, and some parslc}-, all finely shred, and add pepper, salt, and a little powdered cloves. Lay the rabbits and minced meat in a pie-dish lined with slices of fat bacon, pour a wine-glassful of brandy over the whole, and cover the top with slices of bacon. Place the pate in a moderate oven, and let it remain there for a couple of hours. When done enough, serve the pate in a flat dish garnished round the edges with slices of beet-root sprinkled with vinegar, or pickled capsicums can be used instead, if liked. Rabbit Pate (a la Proven ale) . Take two rabbits, cut them into joints without boning them, and lay them in a saucepan with two ciirrots, two onions, a clove of garlic, a bunch of herbs, and about a pound of the belly of pickled pork. Boil in as little water as possible for half an hour, then take the meat out, drain it, place the pork at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish, and upon it lay the piecea of rabbit. Pour a glassful of white wine RAB ( 690 ) RAB over the whole, and strew over it some Spanish pimento ; have some hatter ready, pour it into the dish, and bake the pate in a quick oven for half an hoiu-. Reduce the liquid in which it was dressed, and add the juice of a lemon ; when the pate is done enough, place it in another dish, and serve with the sauce poured round it. Babbit Patties. Take the white meat from a eold-di-essed rabbit. Free it from skin and sinew, mince it finely with a smaU portion of good suet, and put it aside. Bruise the bones, put them into a stewpan with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, and let them simmer until the gTavy is pleasantly flavoured. Thicken it with a little flour and butter, and stew the mince in this till it is quite hot. Bake the patties in pattypans, take them out of the oven, and half fill them with the hot mince. Put on the covers, and pile them on a napkin. Time, about an hour to sinuner the gravy. Probable cost of patties, 2d. each. Suflicient, a dozen for a dish. Babbit Pie. Take two fine wild rabbits, cut them into joints, and lay them in a little lukewarm water salted, so as to cleanse them from all unnecessary blood. Dry them in a clean cloth, flour them nicely, and season with cayenne and salt ; then arrange these joints neatly in a suitable-sized pie-dish ; parboil the livers, and bee:- them in a mortar with their weight of fat bacon, a few bearded oysters, sweet hei-bs, and parsley chopped fine, a dust of flour, "and a few bread-crumbs ; with an egg make this up into small balls, and distribute these in the dish with some artichoke bottoms cut into dice. With your rabbit place also one pound of fat pork that has been at least a week in pickle ; cut the pork into small pieces, and judiciously place it with the balls and rabbit. Grate over all half a good-sized nutmeg, and then add half a pint of port wine and the same quantity of water. Cover with a tolerably thick good crust, and bake one hour in a quick but not violently-heated oven : when nearly done, place over the crust a buttered paper to prevent its becoming too brown. If time will permit, the rabbits will be much better flavoured if the nutmeg and wine are placed over them the night before they are wanted, so as to allow the meat to absorb the flavour. A small piece of tender rump steak placed at the bottom of the dish is also an improvement to the gravy, though a good cook should never be without a stock-pot, so as to have gravy at command when needed, either to add to a pie when the bakingis finished or for serving with poultry or game. Rabbit Pie (another way) . Put into the bottom of a baking-dish a few slices of ham or beef ; cut the rabbit into as many bits as you like ; season each bit with salt, pepper, pounded spices, &c. ; put them in a dish as close as possible, add a glassful of broth if you have any ; if not, a wine-glassful of water and a drop of white wine ; cover this dish quite close with a good crust, beat an egg in a gallipot, and with a paste-brush rub it twice over the paste, and bake in a hot oven for an hour and a half, when the pie will be ready for serving. Whether hot or cold, this dish is excellent. Remember that if the rabbit pie is to be eaten cold it must be much more highly seasoned than when made to be eaten hot. Babbit Pie, Plain. Be careful to choose a young rabbit. ISkin, empty, and wash it, and cut it into ten or twelve neat joints. If the head is put into the pie, split it into halves, and lay the pieces in lukewarm water for half an hour. Drain and diy them, put them into a large pie-dish, the inferior joints at the bottom, and put with them thi-ee or four- slices of fat bacon. Mix a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and half a blade of powdered mace, and sprinkle this powder over the rabbits ; a little minced onion may be added, if liked. Barely cover the rabbits with cold stock or water. Lay a plate on the dish, and bake the rabbits in a moderate oven till they are three- parts cooked. Let the dish cool, cover it with pastry in the usual way, ornament it prettily, and make a hole in the centre, brush it over with egg, and bake in a well-heated oven till the pastry is done enough. Serve it either hot or cold. Some cooks slice potatoes thinly, and lay them in the bottom of the dish before they put in the rabbit. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake the pie. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Suflicient for four- or five persons. Babbit Pie, Plain (another M-ay). Prepare the rabbit as before, cut it into neat joints, and lay these in water for an hour, dry them well, and season each one with salt and pepper. Cut thi-ee-quarters of a pound of bacon into neat squares. Laj the inferior joints of the rabbit at the bottom of a deep dish, put upon them two or three pieces of bacon, and three parts fill the dish with alternate layers of rabbit and bacon. Dredge a little flour, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and a httle minced shallot lightly over each layer, and put two bay-leaves on the top. Pour in half a pint of stock or water, cover the pie with pastry in the usual way, brush over with egg, make a hole in the top, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Turn it about, that it may bake equally, and, if necessary, place a piece of paper upon it to keep it from burning. When done enough, pour into it one or two spoonfuls of nicelj'-flavoui-ed gravy, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Babbit Pie, Baised. Take the meat from a fine young rabbit, cut it into small neat pieces, and season nicely with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Cut half a pound of fat bacon into dice. Make a raised crust according to the directions already given, and form the pie to any shape that may be wislied, being careful that the sides are stiff and fii-m. Put in the pieces of meat and bacon, pack them tightly, and intersperse amongst them the yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise. Pour a little tomato sauce over all, or failing this a spoonful or two of good gravy, which will be a jelly when cold. Cover the pie with pastry, brush it over with RAB (691 ) RA-B egg, and ornament prettily. Bake in a moderate oven until it is done enough, that is until a skewer will pierce to the bottom of it easily. Serve either hot or cold. Time to Lake, about an hour and a half. I'robablc cost, 3s. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Rabbit Pie, Superior. Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, and lay these in lukewai'm water for half an hour, then di'ain and dry them. Make a quarter of a pound of veal forcemeat into small balls the size of a nutmeg, and lay them aside till wanted. If liked the livers of the rabbits may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the forcemeat. Boil thi-ec oggs hard, and cut them into quarters lengthwise. Cut half a pound of streaky bacon into strips, and three-quarters of a pound of lean veal into neat pieces an inch square. Make a savoui-y powder with the eighth part of a nutmeg grated, the thin rind of half a lemon grated or minced very finely, a pinch of cayenne, a teaspoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff paste. Put the veal into the pie, then the rabbit, and lastly the bacon, intersperse the contents of the pie with the forcemeat balls and the hard-boiled eggs, and season each layer as it is placed in the dish with the savoiuy powder. Moisten the whole with stock or water, but do not entirely cover the meat. Wet the edges of the pastry, lay on the cover, trim and ornament it neatly, brush over with egg, and make a slit in the centre with a knife through which the steam can escape. Bake in a moderate oven, and cover the pie with battered paper whilst it is baking, for fear the crust should be burnt. Serve either hot or cold. Two or three sliced truffles or half a dozen mushrooms may be added to the pie if liked, and a glassful of port may be mLxed with some good gravy, and poured into the pie through the hole in the top after it is taken out of the oven. If preferred the forcemeat balls instead of being made of veal forcemeat may be made of the livers of the rabbits, parboiled, minced, and beaten in a mortar with six or eight oysters, a spoonful of bread-crumbs, a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, a pinch of savoury herbs, and the raw yolk of an egg. Time to bake, fully two hours. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rabbit, Pilau of. Skin, wash, and cmx ty a fat young rabbit, and cut it up into ten or twelve pieces. Rub each one of these with a savoury mixture made by mixing the juice of two large onions with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and the juice of a lemon. The onion juice may be obtained by bruising the onions, and draining off the juice. Boil a pound of rice in a quart of stock broth till it is half dressed. Whilst it is simmering melt four ounces of good fat or butter in a saucepan, and in this fry the pieces of rabbit till the}' are lightly browned, and also two sliced onions. Put tlic meat into a deep earthen jar. Lay the onions upon it, and cover with the rice. Add four cloves, eight peppercorns, a pinch of salt, and one or two inches of thin lemon rind, and pour half a pint of milk over the whole. Tie three or four folds of paper over the top of the jar, and bake in a moderate oven. If required, add a little broth or a little more milk when the rabbit is half done. When the rabbit is sufficiently dressed, pile the rice on a dish, place the pieces of rabbit upon it, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about tkree-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six Rabbit, Piquant. Skin, di-aw, and thoroughly cleanse a fresh young rabbit. Cut it open down all its length, lay it flat upon a table, and skewer it well to keep it in shape. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and lay it in an oval pan just large enough to hold it, with five or six ounces of bacon fat, dripping, or butter. Fry it till it is thi'ce-parts dressed. Take it up, drain it, and let it cool, brush over with oiled butter, and egg and bread-crumb it twice. A little time before it is wanted, put it into a brisk oven, and babe until it is lightly browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send to table with a little piccalilli, or any other suitable pickle and a sauce prepared as follows : Pound three shallots in a mortar, and with them a tea-spoonful of chopjDed tarragon, and a little pepper, salt, and unmixed mustard. Two or three gherkins, and a little chopped chervil and burnet, may be added if they are at hand. Beat the raw yolk of an egg quite free from white in a basiu, and when it begins to thicken stir in very gradually six table-spoonfuls of salad oil. The oil must be added first in drops, afterwai'ds in tea-spoonfids, and the sauce must be well beaten between every' addition until it is very thick. Stir in by degrees two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, one table-spoonful of Chili vinegar, and the pounded mixture, and beat it again. Heep the sauce in a cool place till wanted, and serve in a tureen. If tarragon-leaves carmot be had, a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar may be used instead. Time, half an hour to fry a small rabbit ; twenty minutes to bake it. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. jjer pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rabbit, Potted. Empty, skin, and wash two or three young fully-grown rabbits. Take off the legs, and pick all the meat from the back. Season with salt, cayenne, and mace, all finely powdered, and pack the meat closely into a potting-jar. Lay upon it six ounces of fresh butter, and bake gently until done enough. Let it stand in. a cool place for twenty-four hours, turn it into small jars, and cover with clarified butter. The livers can be put with the meat, if liked. The meat can be served in the jtus, or small portions can be cut out, laid on a napkin, and garnished with parsley. This is an excellent way of preserving rabbits which arc not wanted for immediate use. Time to bake, one houi- and a half. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit, Potted (another way). Take off the legs and shoulders of the rabbits, and also the fleshy parts of the back. Cut off the legbones at the first joint, and the shoulder-bones at the blades, but without cutting off the meat. Take also the livers: season the limbs and RAB ( G92 ) RAB livers, put plenty of butter over them, and bake gently. Keep "them three or four days in the pan after they are done, then stow them lightly into pots, covering them with clarified butter. The remainder of the rabbits may be used in any other way. Rabbit Pudding. Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it into ten or twelve pieces. Make a little gravy by stewing the head, the "liver, and a little bacon rind in stock or water, and season this with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Line a buttex-ed basin with good suet crust. Lay in the pieces of rabbit (first seasoning each one separately, with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne), and put with them three or four ounces of bacon cut into strips. Pour over them a tea-cupful of the stock, and be careful to let it cool before using it. Put the cover on the top, press the edges closely together, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth which has been wrung out of boiling water. Put it into fast-boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rabbit Pudding (another way). Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it into ten or twelve pieces. Put these into a stewpan with a little pepper and salt and half a blade of mace. Poui- over them as much boiling water as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently for half an hour. Take them up, and T )ut in their place the head and liver of the rabbit, with a little bacon rind if it is at hand, and simmer for an hour, till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain and skim it, and put it aside to cool. Line the edges of a pic-dish with suet crust. Put in the pieces of rabbit, together with four ounces of fat bacon cut into narrow strips, pour in a cupful of the cooled gravy, lay on the cover, press the edges closely together, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until sufficiently done. Some cooks parboil and mince the liver, mix it with the brains, season the mixture rather highly with salt and cayenne, and sprinkle it over itho meat in the pudding. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rabbit, Pupton of. Take enough rich forcemeat, roll it out, and lay it in a buttered tin dish. Cut slices of bacon exceedingly thin, and place them over the forcemeat. Then take a rabbit, cut it up, season highly, and lay it in the dish, strewing asparagus tops, mushrooms, oysters, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs ; over this lay some more slices of bacon, and on the top place a layer of forcemeat. Bake for an hour in a i-ather slow oven. When ready, turn t*he pupton of rabbit into another dish, and pour sauce over it if it is to be sent hot to table. It is quite as good eaten cold. Rabbit, Quenelles of. Cut the meat from a rabbit, free it from skin and sinew, scrape it with a knife, pound it, and rub it through a wire sieve. Soak the crumb of two French rolls in lukewarm water, and when it is quite soft squeeze it dry in a cloth. Chop three or four mushrooms till small, and put them in a clean saucepan with a slice of butter, half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, half a shallot finely minced, a pinch of jjowdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Let these steam gently for three or four minutes, mix with them the soaked bread, and stir the mixture over the fire till it ceases to adhere to the stewpan and forms a smooth paste. Place the ingredients in a mortar in the following proportions : Six ounces of the pounded rabbit to three ounces of butter and four ounces of panada. Pound all thoroughly for several minutes, and add a table-spoonful of white sauce, two whole eggs, and the yolk of one. Rub the mixture again through a sieve, taste in order to ascertain if it requires further seasoning, and put it on ice or in a cool place. When wanted form the quenelles according to the dii-ections already given {sec Quenelles, To Form) , throw them into boiling water, and poach them till the forcemeat is set. Ser\'e hot with white sauce or mushroom sauce poured round them. Time to poach the quenelles, about ten minutes. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit, Quenelles of (another way). "These," says M. Ude, "are made like the generality of quenelles ; the only difference is that you take the flesh of rabbits instead of any other meat. The legs in general are used for making the quenelles ; the fillets will supply another dish, so will the legs occasionally. The bones and the parings are used to make the consomme and sauces. As the legs are tougher than the tender fillets, they should be pounded for a longer time and rubbed through a tammy, on account of the nerves and sinews." Rabbit, Quenelles of (another way). See Quenelles of Pabbit. Rabbit, Ragout of. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and in this fry three moderate-sized onions cut into slices. Lift these out as they brown, mix three teaspoonfuls of flour smoothly with the butter, and moisten the mixture very gradually with as much stock or water as will make it of the consistency of thick cream. Skin, empty, and wash a young rabbit. Cut it into small neat joints, and lay it in the sauce with five or six rashers of bacon, a bay-leaf, a sHce of lemon, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer all gently together till the rabbit is tender. Lay the pieces on a dish, strain the sauce over them, and serve very hot. A glassful of wine may be added to the sauce or not. Time, about threequarters of an hour to one hour to simmer the rabbit. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Ragout of (another way). Skin, empty, and wash a plump young rabbit, cut it up into ten or twelve pieces, and lay it in a saucepan with a dozen button mushrooms, half a dozen small onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Pour over those ingredients as much boiling stock or water as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently until the rabbift is tender. Lift RAB ( 693 RAB out the rabbit, skim and strain the sauce, and thicken with a table- spoonful of brown thickening. Season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and let it boil till smooth. Add a glassful of sherry or madeira if liked. Put in the pieces of meat. Let them get thoroughlyhot without allowing the gravy to boil, arrange them neatly in a dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the rabbit, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Roast. Take a plump young rabbit. Skin, empty, and wasli it ; fill the inside with good veal forcemeat, sew it up secirrely, and truss firmly with the forelegs back, the hind legs forwards, and the head fastened in an upright position with a skewer. The flavour of the rabbit will be improved if the inside is lined with fat bacon before the forcemeat is put in, but this may be omitted. Fasten a slice of fat bacon over the back of the rabbit, put it down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. When it is partially roasted, fioiuwell, and baste again. When done enough, take it up, remove the skewers, and serve on a hot dish with a little gravy poured over it, and the rest in a tui-een. Serve fried bacon on a separate dish. RabTait, Roast, and Chestnuts. Take two dozen fine large chestnufs. Slit each one lightly with a penknife, and thi-ow all into a saucepan of cold water. Let them boil for a piarter of an hour, drain, and peel them. Whilst the chestnuts are boiling, skin, wash, and empty a plump young rabbit. Throw the liver into boiling water, let it boil ten minutes, and afterwards mince it finely, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of chopped onion, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, four ounces of fat bacon, a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and half the boiled chestnuts. Pound these ingredients thoroughly in a mortar, and when the forcemeat is well mixed put it inside the rabbit, sew up securely, and truss firmly. Tie three or four slices of fat bacon over it, put it down before a clear fire, baste frequently, and let it remain until done enough. Remove the skewers, lay it on a hot dish, pour over it a spoonful or two of the sauce made with the remainder of the chestnuts, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Garnish with sliced lemon. The sauce may be made as follows : Pound the peeled chestnuts till they are quite smooth, and with them an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Mix half a pint of good brown gravy gradually with the chestnut paste, and stir over the fire till it is quite smooth. Time to roast the rabbit, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per jwund. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Roast (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe). If the fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young and forty a full-grown rabbit. When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge it lightly and carefully with flour that you may have it frothy and of a fine light brown. \\Tiile the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver with some parsley ; when tender, chop them together, and put half the mixture into some melted butter, reserving the other half for garnish, divided into little hillocks. Cut off the head and lay half on each side of the dish. A fine, well-grown (but young) wiu-ren rabbit, kept some time after it has been killed, and roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eats very like a hare, to the nature of which it approaches. It is nice nourishing food when young, but hard and unwholesome when old. Rabbit, Roast, Plain. Skin, empty, and wash a plumj) young rabbit. Truss it firmly, the fore-legs backwards, the back-legs forwards, and the head fixed in an upright position by means of a string passing across the shoulders. Tie one or two rashers of fat bacon over the back, put the rabbit down to a clear fire, and baste it well until done enough. Put it on a hot dish, remove the skewers, garnish with slices of fried bacon, and send to table with a sauce prepared as follows : Cut an ounce of lean ham or bacon into dice. Put these into a stewpan with a small slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped caiTot, a tea-spoonful of chopped onion, an inch or two of celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a pinch of powdered mace. Stir these ingredients with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until they aie well browned. Pour over them a tea-spoonful of ketchup, a tablesi oonful of vinegar, and half a tea- spoonful of essence of anchovy. Simmer all gently together for ten minutes, add a quarter of a pint of stock, and a glass of sherry, and simmer again until the sauce is pleasantly flavoured. Add a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, orfailing this a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold -water, and a spoonful of sugar browning. Boil a few minutes longer, and serve very hot. Time to roast the rabbit, three-quarters of an hour to one hour ; less if the rabbit be small. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Roast, To Carve. Proceed in the same way ais for hare {see Hare, lioast, To Carve). Rabbit, Roasted, Sauce for (a sauce for a roasted rabbit used by King Henry the Eighth). Take a handful of washed parsley, mince it small, boil it with butter and verjuice upon a chafing-dish, season it with sugar and a little pepper " grosse beaten;" when it is ready, put in a few crumbs of white bread amongst the other. Let it boil again till it be thick, then lay it in a platter, like the breadth of three fingers, lay on each side one roasted conny (rabbit) or more, and so serve them. From John Partridge's " Treasure of Commodious Conceits and Hidden Secrets." Fourth Edition, 1584. Rabbit Salad. Cut the flesh of a roasted rabbit into neat slices, and let these lie in a marinade composed of a table-spoonful of vinegar, the same quantity of salad oil, three or four tarragon leaves, or a little tarragon vinegar, a sHced onion, and a little pepper and salt. Turn the meat ovt r, and baste frequently till it is thoroughly impregnated with the flavom- of the marinade. Wash and drv RAB ( 694 ) RAB well a cabbage lettuce. Slxred it finely, and spread it at the bottom of a dish. Arrange the pieces of rabbit on this, and intersperse "with them the flesh of two anchovies cut into strips, a tea-spoonful of bruised capers, some cliorvil, pimpernel, and tarragon leaves finely shred, a little sliced beet-root, and a hard-boiled egg cut small. Place over these ingredients three or four lettuces cut into quarters, and ornament the salad with hard-boiled eggs, beet-root, &c. At the moment of serving the salad, pour over it a quarter of a pint of good mayonnaise sauce, or if preferred send oil, vinegar, and mustard to table separate . Probable cost, 3s. 6d. SuSicient for five or six persons. The -pieces of rabbit to lie in the marinade for an hour or two. Rabbit Salad, Simple. Take two or three thin slices of stale crumb of bread. Toast them on both sides till brightly browned, let them cool, and di-\-ide them into neat squares. Lay on each one of these a slice of cold roast rabbit. Ai-range them on a dish alternately, with small salad or a spoonful of washed and dried lettuce finely shred. Sprinkle over all two table-spoonfuls of boiled oruon finely minced, two anchovies cut small, and half a tea-spoonful of shred parsley. Garnish the dish -with parsley and sliced beetroot, and pour mayonnaise sauce over it at the moment of serving. Rabbit, Sauces for. Onion sauce, white sauce, white celery sauce, white mushroom sauce, -parsley and butter made with milk instead of water, and liver sauce are all suitable sauces for boiled rabbit. For roasted rabbit, brown sauce served with currant jelly, brown mushroom sauce, poi\-rade sauce, and liver sauce are most usually served. Liver sauce for boiled rabbits is made as follows : !Mix a table-spoonful of flour and a little cold milk to a smooth paste. Stir this into a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and add a quarter of a pint of boiling water. Let this sauce boil gently for five or six minutes, stir it all the time, and add a slice of fresh butter. jMince finely the liver of the rabbit which has been boiled for twenty minutes. E.ub it through a wire sieve, and stir it into the sauce. Add pepper and salt and a spoonful or two of cream if liked, pour the sauce into the tureen, stir a small piece of butter into it, and when this is dissolved, serve immediately. To make liver sauce for roast rabbit : Wash the liver, tlu-ow it into boiling water, and let it boil for twenty minutes, mince finely, and rub it smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Put it into a quarter of a pint of gravy, and add a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of INIeat, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a pinch of grated lemonpeel, a smaU pinch of powdered thyme, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut rolled in flour. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, and serve very hot. Rabbit Sausages. Skin, empty, and wash a couple of fresh young rabbits. Cut off the heads, divide the rabbits into joints, and pick the meat fi'om the bones. Bruise the latter, and put them with the heads into a saucepan with as much cold water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer gently until the gravy is very strong, shaking the saucepan occasionally to keep the bones from burning. Mince the meat finely, and put it aside for a short time. Wash the livers, first carefully removing the gaU-bags, put them in a stcwijan with a slice of fresh butter, or if preferred a spoonful or two of water, and let them simmer gently until sufliciently done. Drain them, cut them up into small pieces, and put thei?a with the minced rabbit. Weigh the meat, and with each three pounds put one pound of fat bacon coarsely chopped, adding an oimce and a half of salt, a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, two cloves finety pounded, and a pinch of powdered mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten the meat with the gravy strained and seasoned like the i-abbits. A quarter of a pint of gra-vy will be enough for two rabbits, and it should be used while still warm. Fill carefully -prepared skins, and the sausages will be ready for boiling or frying. This preparation is very good put into one large skin, boiled gently until done enough, and served cold. Rabbit Sausages made from Dressed Rabbit. Pick the meat from the remains of boiled or roasted rabbit, and free it from skin and sinew. Mince finely, mix with it a thiid of its weight of fat Ijacon coarsely chopped, and add a spoonful or two of onions which have been boiled till tender in strong gravy. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Season the mixture with pepper, salt, powdered cloves, and grated nutmeg, and bind it together with the yolk of an egg. Fill carefully-prepared skins, and the sausages will be ready for broiling, frjang, &c. Rabbit, Scallops of. Pick the meat from the remains of boiled or roasted rabbit. Mince it finely, season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and add a little lemon-juice if liked. Dissolve a small slice of butter in a saucepan, and stir the mince in this over a gentle fire till it is quite hot. Butter some scallop-shells, and cover the inside of the shell with a layer of nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs, or mashed potatoes. Put in a large spoonful of the savour}' mince, and sprinkle some more bread-crumbs on the surface. Lay three or four little pieces of butter on the top and head, and brown the mince in a hot oven, or before the fire. Arrange the shells on a neatly-folded napkin, and serve very hot. Time, eight or ten minutes to brown the mince. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient, the contents of one shell for one person. Rabbit (Rare-bit), Scotcli. Take as many slices as will be required of good Stilton, Gloucester, or Cheddar cheese, and if the cheese is not very rich add a little fresh butter or saladoil. Grate the cheese, and put it into a cheesetoaster with a spoonful of made mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and a small glassful of good porter or ale. Stir the mixture until the cheese is dissolved, serve it upon a dish under which is a tin of boiling water, and serve very hot, BAB ( 695 ) KAB with liot toast cither dry or buttered. To prepare this dish properly, a cheese-toaster containing a reservoir for hot water should be used. When this is not at hand the cheese may be dissolved in a saucepan. Time, a few minutes. Rabbit, Smothered with Onions. Skin and tnupty a. rabbit, and reniov( the eyes. Drj' it well, and truss it lirnily. Put ten or twelve large onions into a saucepan with three quarts of water. When this boils, put in the rabbit, and let all simmer gently together until both rabbit and onions are sufficiently dressed. Take out the onions, mince them, and put them into a clean saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of flour, a spoonful of milk, and a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Mix these ingredients thoroughly over a gentle fire to form a puree. Put the rabbit on a hot dish, and remove the skewers ; pour the onion puree over it, and serve very hot. Rabbit smothered with onions is sometimes stuffed with veal forcemeat, but this is not common. This dish should always be accompanied with boiled bacon, or boiled pickled pork. Excellent pea soup may be made of the rabbit broth, or if this is not required the rabbit broth -svill prove a valuable addition to stock. Time to boil the rabbit, three-quarters of an hom- to an hour and a quarter, according to the size. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one medium-sized rabbit for three or four persons. Rabbit Soup. Skin and empty a fine rabbit, and lay the liver aside. Cut it into joints, flour the pieces, and fry them lightly ; IDut them in a stewpan with the liver and three pints of good stock made from bones, let them simmer as gently as possible for an hour, or until the rabbit is done enough, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Take out the rabbit, cut oif the best of the meat, lay it in a covered dish, and put it in a cool place. Bruise the bones, and put them back into the stock, and vnth. them two onions, a shallot, a carrot, a small bunch of parsley, a pinch of thyme, three or four outer sticks of celery, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the broth two hours longer. Take out the liver, rub it till smooth with the back of a wooden spoon, moisten with a little of the liquor, and return it to the soup. Just before sending to table add half a glassful of port and a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Cut the pieces of meat into dice, let them get quite hot without boiling, and serve immediately. Time, three hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rabbit Soup (M. Tide's recipe). Take the fillets of four rabbits to make an entree, and with the legs and shoulders make the soup as follows: Put them into warm water to take out the blood ; when quite clean put them into a stewpan with a bundle of parsley and a ladleful of good broth ; put all this to simmer over a slow fire ; when done through, moisten with some good broth. Season to taste, and let it boil for an hour only : if you let it boil too long the soup will be bro-ivn. Next take the meat out of the broth, drain it, and let it cool. then pick all the meat from the bones, and put it into the mortar, with four yolks of eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of a roll soaked in a little broth ; poimd aU this very fine ; rub it tlu'ough a tammy, moisten with the broth, and when done add a pint of double cream that has boiled; mix all together, and serve. Take particular notice that this soup must be verj white ; sonwtimes you give it with vermicelli, sofnetimcs with pearl barley, sometimes with rice : on all occasions, each of these articles must bo done separately in broth, and jjut into the soup afterwards. If you have abundance of rabbits, you may also use the fillets, as the soup will then be whiter and better. Rabbit Soup, Superior. Skin and empty t-\vo rabbits, and let them lie in lukewarm water for an hour. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with two quarts of white stock made from veal bones. Let them simmer gently until they are quite tender. Lift them out, and pick all the best meat from the bones. Bruise the latter, and put them back into the broth with two caiTots, two onions, three or four sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Let all simmer gently for three hours. At the end of that time, strain the liquor, and let it stand to settle, so that it maybe poured off free from sediment. Meantime mince the meat, and pound it till it is perfectly smooth, cover it, and put it aside. When the broth is cold, pour off the clear liquor free from sediment, and boil it. Put the pounded meat into a basin, moisten it ver}' graduallj with the warm broth, and rub the paste well with the back of a wooden spoon that it may be free from lumps. Add this thickening to the broth, season pleasantly with additional salt and cayenne, and pass it through a sieve. Put it into a clean saucepan, and when it boils stir into it three-quarters of a pint of cream which has been mixed with a table-spoonful of good arrowroot. Let the soup boil up again, and serve very hot. Sippets of toast dipped in cream and fried may be served with the soup. Time, about threequarters of an hour to an hour and a quarter to boil the rabbits; three hours to boil the liquor. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for nine or ton persons. Rabbit Soup, White. A small quantity of good rabbit soup may bo made with the inferior parts of the rabbit, that is the head, neck, and shoulders, leaving the best parts, that is the legs and the back, to be stewed, and served as an entree. Divide the rabbit, and soak the part which is to be used for soup in lukewarm water for half an hour. Cut it into small pieces, and put these into a stewpan with as much stock made from bones and water as will barely cover them. Let them ~ simmer gently until the meat is done enough. Take it up, pick it from the bones, and put these back into the liquor with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTue, a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Add a pint and a half of additional stock, and simmer all gently together for two hours. Strain the soup, and leave it to cool. Mince the meat, and RAB ( 696 ) RAB pound it quite smooth. Add to it a slice of stale crumb of bread which has been soaked in milk till soft and afterwards squeezed dry. Moisten this paste gradually with the strained stock, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. Add a small cupful of cream which has been mixed with a tea-spoonful of ground rice or arrowroot, let it boil up once more, and serve. Some cooks add the yolk of an egg boiled hard to the pounded mince, and stir this into the soup to enrich it. When this is done the soup must not boil after the egg is added. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Sufficient for three or four* persons. Rabbit, Spanish, way of Cooking. A stewpan or earthenware pipkin is taken, having a tightly-fitting cover, and of sufficient size to hold a couple of rabbits when cut up into small pieces ; also four moderate-sized Spanish onions in thin slices. A layer of sliced onion is placed on the bottom of the pan ; on it a layer of the pieces of rabbit previously seasoned with salt, pepper, and whatever other seasoning may be desired. This is covered Avith a second layer of onion, then rabbit, and so on alternately, until the whole of the rabbit is used up. A few thin slices of raw bacon or ham are put over the last layer of rabbit, and all the remaining pieces of onion are placed on the top. The cover is then put on, and the whole stewed at a moderate heat for two hours. A slack oven, a hot plate, or hot hearth, answers admirably. It is needless to say that, as no water may be added, if the pan is placed over the fire the meat is burned and spoiled. At the end of two hoiu-s let it be turned out into a dish, and served up immediately, when it will be found to be a tender, succulent, gravy-teeming dish, far different from the insipid, dry, stringy, boiled rabbit and onion sauce of the ordinary style. English onions answer very well ; and should the gravy (of which a considerable quantity is produced), require to be slightlj' thickened, a tea-spoonful of flour should be added to the seasoning which is rubbed over the pieces of rabbit. Rabbit, Stewed. Cut a plump young rabbit into pieces the size of an egg. Divide haH a pound of streaky bacon into square pieces, and fry these with an ounce of butter till they turn yell w. Take them up, and put in their place the pieces of rabbit and two onions sliced, and fry these till they are lightly browned. Take them up, mix an ounce of butter with the fat, and rub it over the fire with the back of a wooden spoon for two minutes. j\Ioisten the paste gi-adually with three-quarters of a pint of stock or water, and add a bunch of savoury herbs, a little pepper and salt, the rabbit, the bacon, and the onions, and simmer all gently together in a closelycovered saucepan for twenty minutes. Take out the herbs, pile the pieces of rabbit on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. If liked, a glassful of claret may be added to the sauce. It will be much improved, also, if a dozen mushrooms are boiled in the sauce for the last six or seven minutes. Failing these, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup may be stirred into it. Tipie, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five per.sons. Rabbit Stewed Whole. Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and soak it in lukewarm water for half an hour. Drain and dry it, and fill it with a forcemeat prepared as follows : Boil the liver for a quarter of an hour. Mince it finely, and mix with it thi-ee ounces of finelyshred beef suet, two ounces of grated breadcrumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, and a little milk. Sew the rabbit up securely, truss firmly for roasting, and lay thi-ee or four slices of fat bacon upon it. Bake in a brisk oven for twenty minutes. Cut two ounces of bacon into dice, and fry these in an ounce of butter with a carrot and two onions till they are lightly browned. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and add a pint of stock or water, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, and a little pe jper and salt. Put the rabbit and bacon into this sauce, and let them simmer gently until quite tender. Lay the rabbit on a dish, and keep it hot. Rub the vegetables through a sieve, mix the pulp again with the gravy, let it boil up, pour it over the rabbit, and serve very hot. Time to stew the rabbit, an hour and a half. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Stuffed and Stewed (a German recipe) . Fill a rabbit with good veal forcemeat, tie three or four rashers of fat bacon over it, truss it firmly, put it down to a clear fire, and baste till it is lightly browned. Take it uj), put it in a stew] )an, pour the contents of the dripping-tin over it, add as much new milk as wiU cover it, and a little pepper and salt if required. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the rabbit simmer very gently until it is done enough. Put it on a hot dish, garnish with sliced lemon, pour a little of the sauce in which it was stewed over it, and send the rest to table in a tm-een. Time, three-quarters of an hoiuto one hour. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit, Turban of. Skin, empty, and wash two or three jilump young rabbits. Pass a sharp knife down each side of the backbone, put the point underneath and raise the flesh in neat fillets. Cut off the legs, take out the bones, and divide the flesh in halves lengthwise. Lard all these fillets thickly and evenly with strips of fat bacon. Pick the rest of the meat from the bones, and make it into forcemeat by mincing it finely and mixing with it a third of its weight in fat and lean bacon, a few bread-crumbs, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together v th the yolks of one or two eggs. Make a case of pastry, such as is used for raised jjies. To do this, put a pound of flour into a bowl, make a hollow in the centre, and" stir into this half a pint of boiling water in which has been dissolved four ounces of lard and a pinch of salt. Work this first with a spoon, and afterwards with the hand, to a smooth stiff paste. Mould it into a circular case, from two to three inches high, brush it over with yolk of egg, fill it with BAB (697) BAB flour, and bake in a wcU-hcated oven till it is firmly set. Let it cool, turn out the flour, and spread the forcemeat all over the inside. Fill the vacant space evenly and compactly with the meat from the legs. Place the fillets from the back over the top to show the larding, and put a slice of ham between each piece to give the dish a pretty appearance. Wrap the whole meat and case together in a thick fold of oiled paper, ?and balce in a moderate oven. Remove the l aper. Hold a sjilamander or red-hot shovel over the top of the turban for three or four minutes to crisp the lardons, make a little hole in the centre and pour into this a little gravy, lilace the case on a neatly-folded napkin, garnish the dish with parsley, &c., and servo veiy hot. If liked, a few mushrooms may be stewed in gravy, and laid upon and around the turban. The gravy may be made as follows: Put the bones of the rabbits into a stewjjan with as much stock or water as will cover them, and add an onion stuck with two cloves, three or foui- outer sticks of celery, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Let all simmer gently together till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and put it back into the .saucepan, stir into it a slice of butter rolled in flour, and boil it till it is smooth and thick. Add a quarter of a pint of cream. A spoonful or two of this sauce may be poured into the turban, and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Time to bake, about an hour. Sufiicient for a luncheon or supper dish. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. jier pound. Babbit (Venetian way) . Take three or more young rabbits ; skin and empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces in the following way : Take off the shoulders, then the head from the neck, divide the back in four parts ; take off the legs on each side of the saddle, and cut them into two pieces. Have ready half a pottle of mushrooms chopped very fine, with parsley and shallots, also chopped fine. Put a small lump of butter into a stewpan with a little rasped bacon ; put the sweet herbs on the fire with a little salt, pepper, and allspice ; let them stew for a shoi-t time on a slow fire. When sufficiently fried, put in the rabbits, make them get firm with these sweet herbs till they are sufficiently done. Take the limbs out from the seasoning, lean the stewpan sideways to skim the fat that comes uppermost, put a spoonful of sauce toumee, or if you have none, add to it a small tea-spoonful of flour, moistened with a spoonful or two of consomme, let it boil a few minutes, and make a thickening of the yolks of four eggs ; add the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne pepper ; stir the sauce well ; if it happens to be too thick, make it thinner with a spoonful of broth ; keep it quite hot, throw the members into the sauce again, and send up quite hot. This sauce must be rather highlj seasoned. Tide. Babbit, (Bare-bit), Welsh Take a slice of bread about half an inch thick. Cut off the crust, toast it lightly, and butter it. Cut it in halves, and lay upon each half a slice of good Stilton or Cheshire cheese. Put the toasts in a cheese-toaster before a clear fire, and let them remain until the cheese is equally done. Serve the rabbit, or rare-bit, very hot, with pepper, salt, and made mustard. Some cooks toast the cheese partially in a Dutch oven, before laying it on the toast. Time to toast the cheese, a few minutes. The length of time vaiies with the quality of the cheese. {Sec also Earo-bit, Welsh, and Cheese, Toasted). Babbit with Cucumber. Cut the meat from the remains of a cold roast rabbit into neat strips, and lay it aside. Slice a fine cucumber very thinly. Sprinkle a little salt over it, and lay it between two dishes for an hour. Drain the water from it, pour over it a sjioonful or two of vinegar, and let it remain for another hour. Pour off the vinegar, and put the slices of cucumber into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and either an onion or a small bunch of chives. Shake the saucepan over -the fire, till the cucumber is slightly browned. Dredge a little flour over it, pour upon it a quarter of a pint of good gravy or stock made from bones, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Take out the herbs, season the sauce with pepper and salt, put in the pieces of rabbit, and let them get quite hot. The sauce must not boil after the rabbit is put in. Pile the rabbit on a dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve very hot. Time half an hour to simmer the sauce; a few minutes to heat the pieces of rabbit. Babbit with Curry. Take two or thrc? rabbits, and cut in pieces the hind-legs, back, and loins. Put these in a stewpan with butter and six ounces of streaky bacon in large dice. Fry over a moderate fire, but do not let the contents of the pan take too much colour: salt, sprinkle with flour, and curry powder. Fry the pieces of rabbit for a few seconds longer, moisten with broth off the fire, put the stewpan again on the fire, and stir the hquid till it is boiling. In five minutes remove the stewpan on a moderate fire to finish cooking the rabbits. Ten minutes before serving, lay the pieces of rabbit in another stewpan, and pass the sauce over ; then add to the stew two large onions cut into dice, seasoned and coloured with butter in a frying-pan. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with two yolks of eggs diluted with cream; cook the liaison without permitting the sauce to boil, then send the meat to table, with some rice, boiled Indian fashion, in a separate dish. Babbit with Herbs. Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it into pieces the size of an egg. If the head is used split it in halves. Fry the pieces in a little hot fat, and turn them about till they are equally and lightly browned. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and add eight or ten mushrooms chopped small, a shallot finely minced, a table- spoonful of parsley, a table-spoonful of strained lemonjuice, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of good gravy, and let all simmer gently together for ten minutes. Crush the liver of the rabbit (which lias been previously boiled for ten minutes), and mix it with the gravj\ A glassful of sherry may be added or not. Serve very hot. Time, RAB ( 698 ) RAD altogether, half an hour. Prohahle cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9c1. per pound. .Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbit with Jerusalem Artichokes. kin, emptj-, and wash a plump young rabbit. Cut it into n( at joints, lay these in a saucepan, and barely cover them with boiling stock or water. Let the Hquor boil, draw the saucepan to the side, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes. Put into the sauce two pounds of Jerusalem artichokes pared and sliced, and let all stew gently together till the rabbit is tender. Take out the artichokes, mash them, season with salt and cayenne, and add two table- spoonfuls of cream or milk. Beat them with a wooden spoon over the fire tin they are quite hot. Lay the pieces of rabbit on a dish, pom- the mashed artichokes over them, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rabbits, Choosing of. When purchasing a rabbit see that the animal is fresh and young. If fresh the body will be stiff, the flesh white and dry in appearance, and of a sweet smell. If stale the flesh will be slimy and blue, with a tainted odour. If J oung the claws and the coat will be smooth, the nose sharp pointed, and the ears tender and easily torn ; if old the wool will be mixed with grey hairs, and the claws long and rough. Eabbits ought not to be kept more than a day or two after they are killed. In order to distinguish wild rabbits from tame ones examine the paws and the tail. Wild rabbits have hair on their paws, and the under part of the tail is of a reddish colour. Rabbits, Skinning of. Cut the skin round the first joint of the hind-legs. Pull up the skin a little, and pass a knife along the skin inside the thigh as far as the tail. Afterwards pass the hand under the skin, and it will easily separate from the body. Draw it off towards the head. Cut the first joint off the fore-legs, and pull up the skin. Draw up the ears by passing a skewer between the skin and the head, and take oii the skin. Cut the nose and lip, and draw the skin right oft". Cut a sUt just under the body, take out the inside, leaving the kidneys. Save the liver and heart, and take out the eyes. Wash the rabbit well inside and out, drain, and wipe it diy. Rabbits, Trussing of. To truss a rabbit for boiling : Draw the fore-legs backwards, and the hind-legs forwards, bring the head round to the side, and fasten it there with a skewer run through it and the body. To truss a rabbit for roasting : Skewer the head firmljr between the shoulders. Draw the legs close to the body, and pass a skewer through them. Rabbits, Wild, Stock Broth from. Wild rabbits are sometimes used to impart the required gamey flavour to stock which is to be used for certain soups. This stock is prepared as follows : Divide a wild rabbit into joints, and ctit half a pound of veal into small pieces. Put these in a ste'vpan with a slice of fresh butter, and stir them lightly over a slow fire till they are brown. Pour over them as much water as will cover them, and bring the liquor gently to the boil, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Place it by the side of the fire, take ofl: the fat as it is thrown up, and simmer the liquor verj- gently. Add the vegetables and seasonings which are suitable for the intended soup, and when the liquor is sufficiently flavoured strain it for use. If the rabbit is not too much boiled it may be served with white or brown sauce. Raeahout. Eacahout is said to be farina jDrepared from the acorns of the Barbary oak disguised with a little flavouring. The following is recommended by Cooley in his Recipes as an imitation : Roasted cacao or chocolate nuts, four ounces ; tapioca and potato farina, of each six ounces ; white sugar, slightly flavoiu-ed with vanilla, haK a potmd. This preparation, which is very nutritious, is to be used like arrowroot. Rack or Arrack. This is a spirituous liquor manufactured at difterent places in the East. " Arrack," says MacCirlloch, " is a term applied in most parts of India and the Indian Islands to designate every sort of spirituous liquor ; a circumstance which accounts for the discrepancy in the statements as to the materials used in making it and the mode of its manufacture. The arrack of Goa and Batavia is in high estimation ; that of Colombo or Ceylon has been said to be inferior to the former ; but tliis is doubtful. Goa and Colombo arrack is invariably made from the vegetable juice ioddy which flows by incision from the cocoa-nut tree. After the juice is fermented it is distilled and rectified. It usually jaelds about an eighth part of pure spirit. Batavia or Java arrack is obtained by distillation from molasses and rice, with only a small admixtui-e of toddy. When well prepared, arrack is clear and transparent ; generally, however, it is slightly straw-coloured. Its flavour is peculiar ; but it differs considerably, no doubt, in consequence of the difterent . articles of which it is prepared, and the imequal care taken in its manufacture. In England arrack is seldom used except to give flavomto punch. In the East its consumption is immense." Radical Pudding. Weigh four eggs ir the shell. Take this weight in butter, hal: melt it, and beat it to a cream. Add the eggs well-beaten, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, two-thirds of the weight of the eggs in flour, and a little lemon or almond flavouring. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, pour the mixture into a buttered mould. Lay a round of buttered paper on the top, tie the mould in a cloth, plunge it into fast-boiling water, and let it boil until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with pudding sauce. Time to boil, a little more than an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Radish. To be eaten in perfection, radishes should be freshly pulled and tender. When preparing them for table wash them thoroughly, and leave about an inch and a half of the stallc. Ciit the fibres from the bulbs, and lay them in RAD ( 699 ) RAF cold -water for an hour. Serve them in ri circle on a plate with tlic stalk end outwards, and a salt-cellar in the centre. Radishes arc very commonly added to salads. jr Radish Drawing. The time of di-awing radishes is by no means indifferent. Thej' eat in the greatest perfection if pulled in the morning, before the sun has attained any power, and laid in a cool damp place until wanted. The bed should have a plenteous watering the morning before that on which they are taken, but none afterwards until subsequent to the drawing. In November, those wanted for winter must be taken up dui-ing dry weather and preserved in sand. Johnson. " Writers of antiquity," says Soyer, " notice three kinds of radishes : the large, short, and thick ; the round ; and the wild. They fancied that, at the end of three years, the seed of this plant produced very good cabbages, which must have been rather vexatious at times to honest gardeners who might have preferred radishes. " The Romans preserved radishes very well by covering them with a paste composed of honey, ?vdnegar, and salt." Radish, Horse. "Wash the horseradish thoroughly, and lay it in cold water for an hour. Scrape it into fine curly shreds ? with a sharp knife, and use it to garnish various dishes. It is a frequent accompaniment to roast beef and to many kinds of fish. Radish Pods, To Pickle (a simple recipe). Gather the pods when the seeds within them are fully gro-mi, but soft, i.e., when they are in the condition of green peas. Wash them in salted water, put them into glass bottles or ungiazed jars, and pour cold vinegar over them. As the -inegar becomes absorbed, add more, and when the jars are full and the -vinegar no longer shrinks, tie do-svn closely, and store in a dry place. The advantage of pickling the pods in this way is that they can be taken from the garden, and put into the bottles as they become ready for use. If liked, a blade of mace, an ounce of ginger, and half an ounce of pepper may be put with each pint of vinegar. Radish Pods, To Pickle (a superior recipe). Gather the pods when quite young, and lay them in strong brine for twenty-four hours. Drain the brine from them, boil it, pour it upon them boiling hot, and keei? the jar well covered to keep in the steam. When the brine is cold boil it again, and continue this until the pods are green. Drain the pods, put them into glass bottles or ungiazed jars, pour over them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them, and when this is cold, Ijoil it a second time, and pour over the pods, which must be well covered -with the -v inegar. When the pickle is quite cold, tie the jars closely, and store in a cool dry place. A blade of mace, an ounce of whole ginger, and an ounce of pepper may be boiled with each pint of vinegar. Radish Sauce. Peel and grate the radishes, and mix them with a little oil, -vanegar, salt, and pepper. This sauce is an excellent accompaniment to cold meat. If liked, a third of the quantity of radishes in scraped horseradish, and as much minced beetroot may be mixed with the grated radish. Radish Sauce, Horse ( a German recipe) . Take a piece of butter the size of an e2;i , beat it up with half a table-spoonful of flour, thin it with a cupful of warm broth, place it on the fire to boil, stirring it all the time ; stir in two table-spoonfuls of grated horse-radish, let it heat but not boil, add a little salt, and serve. Vinegar may be added if liked. Radish, Varieties of. The varieties of radish in cultivation are extremely numerous ; they are usually classed, however, under the two well-kno-wn heads of long-rooted and turnip-rooted radishes, the roots of the former resembling the carrot in shape, those of the latter the turnip. The varieties present marked difl erences, not onlj in the form of root but in colour and size. The prevailing colour is red. Some of the darker-coloured turnip-rooted radishes grow to the size of a man's head. The common radish is a native of Asia, from the coasts of the Mediterranean to Japan, and has been cultivated in China, India, and Europe from the most ancient times. Radish, Wholesomeness of the. The radish is generally considered a pleasant stimulating condiment ; it is, however, an article of diet which most dyspeptic patients would do -svell to avoid. Radish-juice mixed with sugarcandy is a popular and useful German remedj' for hoarseness and cough. RaflTald's Browning. Beat to powder four ounces of fine lump sugar ; put it into a clean iron fr -ing-pan with one ounce of butter. Set it over a clear fire, and mix it well together. When it begins to be frothy, the sugar is dissolving ; then hold it higher over the fire, and have ready a pint of red wine. When the sugar and butter are of a deep bro-wn, pour in a little of the wine, stir it thwroughly together, gradually add the rest of the -wine, and RAF ( 700 ) RAG keep stirring all the time ; put in half an ounce of allspice, six cloves, four shallots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a little salt, and the rind of a lemon peeled as thin as possible ; boil up slowly for ten minutes ; pour it into a basin ; when cold, take oif the scum very clean, and bottle for use. This is a pleasant sauce, but the cook must remember it wiU alter the colour of whatever it is added to. Raffald's Lemon Pickle. Take a dozen lemons, grat(; otf the outer rinds very thin, cut them in four quarters, but leave the bottoms whole ; rub on them equally a pound of bav-salt. Spread them in a large pewter dish, and let them dry gradually by the fire till all the juice is dried into the peels ; then put them into a stone jar with half an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves beaten fine, half an ounce of nutmeg cut in thin slices, two ounces of garlic peeled, a quarter of a pound of mustard-seed bruised a little and tied in a muslin bag; pour a quart of white-wine vinegar upon them, close the pitcher or jar well up, and let it stand fiv(j or six days by the fire ; shake it well every day, then tie it up as close as possible, and let it stand for three months. When you bottle it, put the pickle and lemon into a hair sieve, and press them well to get out the liquor; let it stand tiU next day; then pour off the fine and bottle it; let the rest stand three or four days and it will settle ; pour off the fine again and let it settle, till you have poured off all you can get fine. It may be put into any white sauce, and will not hurt the colour. It is very good for fish sauce and made dishes, especially of veal; a tea-spoonful is enough for white and two for brown sauce for a fowl : it is a most useful pickle, and gives a pleasant flavour. Be sure you put it in before you thicken the sauce or put any cream in, lest the sharpness make it curdle. Mrs. Raffald says in the preface to her " Cookery :" "I have given no directions for cullis, &c., as I have found by experience that lemon-pickle and browning (iSVfthe preceding recipe) answer both for beauty and taste (at a trifling expense) better than the most extravagant cuUises. Had I known the use and value of these two recipes when I first took upon me the part and duty of a housekeeper, they would have saved me a great deal of trouble in making gravy, and those I served a great deal of expense." Dr. Kitchiner, in quoting these observations, adds, " AVe suppose Mrs. Raffald's praise of these two sauces to be well deserved, as they have been copied into almost every cookery-book that has been compiled since." _ Ragout. Strictly speaking, a ragout is a rich, highly-flavoured sauce made with mushrooms, truffles, sweetbreads, queneUes, stewed vegetables, &c., and used as a garnish for entrees or removes. Thus we have Chipolata ragout, and Toulouse ragout, the recipes for making which ?will be found under their separate headings. Ordinarily, however, a ragout is simply understood to mean any highly-flavoured preparation oi meat or fish, poultry or game. Ragout Financi re. Prepare and cook equal quantities of mushrooms, quenelles, cock's combs, cock's kernels, scallops of sweetbread, and sliced truffles. Let these articles be as nearly as possible of uniform size, put them into a saucepan, and pour over them as much good brown sauce as wiU barely cover them. Add a glassful of light wine, place the saucepan on a gentle fire, and let its contents simmer gently until they are thoroughly hot. This ragotit is used for garnishing various dishes. Time to heat the ragoiit, three minutes. Ragout of Garlic, Mild. Garlic is not universally liked, probably owing to its strongsavour and smell. Those who are fond of it, however, are generally very partial to it, and these persons will welcome it simply boiled till tender, without sauce or gravy, and served in the same dish with roast mntton. When thus served, its flavour and smell wiU be rendered much milder if the water in which it is boiled be changed every five or ten minutes until it is done enough, and the more frequent these changes are the milder the garlic will be. Instead of serving it di-y with the mutton, the garlic may be put into good brown gravy or white sauce, and poured over the meat. Time to boil the garlic, half an hour. Ragout Powder. Take one ounce of grated lemon-rind, one ounce of ground black pepper, one ounce of dry mustard, half an ounce of grated nutmeg, half an ounce of powdered ginger, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves. Dry these ingredients before a very gentle fire ; they must be placed at some distance from it, and dried very slowly, or their flavour will evaporate. Pound them thoroughly in a marble mortar, mix with them two ounces of salt, and pass the powder through a fine hair sieve. Put the powder into small bottles perfectly dry, cork these down tightly, and store in a dry place. A small portion added to ragouts and sauces will impart an agreeable flavour*. Ragoiit Powder (another way). Grate the rinds of two lemons and two Seville oranges. Take a quarter of a pound of truffles, a quarter of a pound of dried mushrooms, a large nutmeg grated, an ounce of powdered mace, an ounce of ground black pepper, and two drachms of cayenne. Dry these ingredients well before a gentle fire, as in the last recipe. Pound them to powder in a marble mortar, mix with them two ounces of salt, pass the powder through a sieve, cork it tightly, and bottle for use. Ragoiits. Recipes for the following ragoiits will be found imder their respective headings : Beef Liver, Fat Calf's Head Milanese Chipolata Garxish Mussels Eggs Mutton Fish, in Scallop Shells Mutton, French Fowl Rabbit Garlic, Mild Snipes Hare Sweetbreads Hessian Soup, &:c. Toiilouse Lamb Steaks Veal, Breast of Lamb with Sorrel Yeal, Cold. RAG (701 ) BAI Ragouts, Forcemeat for [see Forcemeat for Meat Ties or Kagout?). Ragouts, Gravy for all kinds of. Take two slices of ham and two pounds of lean veal from the fillet. Cut the meat into six or eight pieces, and put these in a stewpan ?with half a pint of water. Bring the liquor slowly to the boil, and simmer very gently for half an hour, when it will have nearly boiled away. Turn the meat, put into the saucepan with it an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thymCj a bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, a carrot cut into two or three pieces, three or four outer sticks of celery, or half a tea-spoonful of celery seed tied in muslin, a little pepper and salt, and three pints of boiUng water. Bring the liquor to the boil, draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer all very gently without the lid for two hours. Strain the liquor, and put it aside for use. The pieces of meat may be potted and serve as a relish for breakfast or luncheon, or they may be served with a piquant sauce. Sufficient for a quart of gravy. Probable cost, 3s. Time, two hours XI nd a half. Ragouts, Gravy for all kinds of (another way). The bones and trimmings of meat and poultry ought to fui'nish stock for making the sauces required for every-day use in an ordinary household. In a properly managed kitchen no bone ought to be thrown away until it has been stewed so that it is as clean as a piece of ivory. If cooks would only stew the bones thoroughly, they might save their masters many pounds in a year, which are otherwise spent in buying beef and veal for gravy ; and if the cook were clever in flavouring her sauces, six persons out of ten would not discover that the sauce was not made from fresh meat. To make gravy from bones, break up the bones of a leg of mutton or of a piece of beef into small pieces. If these bones are not at hand, purchase from the butcher two pennyworth of fresh. Wash these with scrupulous care, and cut awaj' any portions that are not agreeable. Put the bones into a large saucepan, and poiir over them five pints of cold water. If a very strong gravy is wanted, less water may be used. Bring the liquor slowly to the "boil, remove every particle of scum, and let it simmer very gently indeed for five hours. Strain it into a bowl, and if convenient put it aside until the next day. Take away the cake mf fat from the top (it may be used for frying fish, Sec), pour off the liquor gently, to leave undisturbed any sediment which may have settled at the bottom. Put the stock into a saucepan, and with it vegetables and herbs for flavouring suited to the meat with which it is to be served. For ordinary brown gravy the following will be sufficient : a large carrot cut into three or four pieces, three or four outer sticks of celery, or half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery seed tied in muslin, an onion stuck with three cloves, a small blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper. Simmer all gently for two hours, strain the stock, and put it aside in a cool place. It will keep for a week in cold weather, in hot weather it should be boiled every other diiy. When it is wanted, take as much of it as is required, mix with it a small portion of Liebig's Extract of Moat, thicken it if necessary with a little brown tliickening, and it will be ready for use. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the bones. Sufficient for a quart of gravy. Time, two days. Raised Pie, French ("ce French Raised Pic). Raised Pie, Lancashire {xee Lancashire Raised Pie). Raised Pies. Raised pies may be made of any size and with almost all kinds of meat, poultrj', or game, the only indispensable requisite being that there shall be no bone in them. They are usually served cold, and should be rather highly flavoured. The pastry of small pies is generally eaten, but with large pies it is merely used as a case in which to serve the savoury preparation inside. There is no difficulty in making the pastry for raised pies, but inexperienced cooks are sure to find it difficult to raise the walls of the pie. The process is much easier of accomplishment if a tin mould is used. Instructions are here given both for forming the pie with and without a mould {see Raised Pies, To Foi-m). Raised pies should be baked in a well-heated but by no means brisk oven, and if there is any danger of the pastry being too highly coloured, a buttered paper should be laid over it. In order to ascertain whether or not the pie is done enourh run a skewer into the middle of it, and if it is tonuer throughout it is done. When the appearance of the pie is a consideration, it is a good plan to cut the top carefullj out, and cover the meat with bright stiff aspic jelly cut into dice. If this is not done, however, a little good bright gravy which will fonn a jelly when cold should always be poured into the pie tkrough the hole at the top whenever it is taken out of the oven. In summer time it is safer to stiffen this with a little dissolved isinglass. Raised Pies of Game or Poultry. This recipe may be followed in making raised pies with all kinds of birds, and the quantity of forcemeat used must be proportioned to the size and number of the birds. Mushrooms and truffles may be added if liked. Cut the bird open down the back, and bone it without injuring the skin ; lay it breast downwards upon a table, and season the inside with peppei', salt, and pounded mace. Spread upon it a layer of veal forcemeat, and place on this first a laj-er of slices of veal, and then of slices of ham or tongue. Put a layer of forcemeat over all, and restore the bird to its original shape, making the skin meet where it was cut. Line the pie with good veal forcemeat half an inch in thickness. Lay the bird upon this, cover with forcemeat and fill the vacant spaces with forcemeat and pieces of ham and veal ; place a slice of butter and two bay-leaves on the top, put on the cover, and finish the pie as directed in the following recipes {see Raised Pies, To Form) : Bake in a moderate oven. AVhilst it is baking, stew the bones with a little HAI ( 702 ) RAI seasoning to make gravy, and if this is not sufficiently strong to jelly when cold dissolve a little isinglass in it. Pour this gravy into the pie when it is done, and serve cold. If liked, the bu-d may be jointed, the bones removed, and the pie filled vith alternate layers of forcemeat, game, veal, and ham ; but it must be remembered that the undermost and uppermost layer should be composed of forcemeat. It is always an improvement to lard the fleshy parts of game or poultry with thin slices of bacon. Time, a good-sized pie, made with a large chicken and three or four slices of ham and veal, will reqiiii-e from four to five hours' baking. Raised Pies, Paste for {see Paste for Eaised Pics). Raised Pies, Pastry for. Vlien the pastry is not to be eaten, put a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it an ounce of salt. Make a hole in the centre, and pour into this four ounces of lard or butter dissolved in boihng water. Work the mixture first with a spoon and afterwards with the hands to a firm smooth paste. MThen it is well kneaded wrap it in a cloth, and lay it before the fire for a few minutes. This will make it more easy to work. When the pastry is to be eaten, lay a pound of flour on a board, and rub lightly into it with the fingers six ounces of sweet butter. Add a little salt, the yolks and whites of two eggs, and as much water as will make a stiff smooth paste ; this wiU be about the third of a pint. Knead the paste well to make it firm, and it will be ready-for use. This pastry may of course be made richer by putting into the flour a larger proportion of butter, but it must be remembered that the richer the pastry the more difficult it will be to raise. When a mould is to be used, another ounce or two of butter may be allowed without much fear of disaster. Raised Pies, To Form. Take as much pastry as it is intended to use for the pie. Cut off as much as will be wanted for the cover, and form the remainder to the shape of a cone. Flatten the sides with the palms of the hands, and when they are quite smooth squeeze the point dovm. a little, and press the knuckles of haised pie. the left hand into the middle of the pastry till the inside is hollow. Knead it well with the fingers, and be careful to have every part of an equal thickness. FiU the pie, roU out the remainder of the pastry to the size of the top of the pie, moisten the edges with a little egg, and lay on the cover. Press this do vn seciirely, and pinch it with pastry pincers. Make a small hole in the centre of the pie, i.nd ornament with pastry leaves, chains, or any fanciful designs. Brush all over with egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. When the pie is done enough, take it out, and pour in a little good gravy which will jelly when cold. If a mould is used, butter it, and lino it with good firm pastry. Fill the pie, roll out the cover, moisten the edges of the pastry, lay it on, and press it down secui-ely, so that the edge of the pio may be raised slightly above the cover. Pinch the edges with the pastry nippers. ;Make a small hole in the centre, and lay upon the pie pastry ornaments of any description. Brush over with egg, and bake in a wellheated oven. Take the pie out, draw out the pin wliich fastens the side of the mould, and take it out carefully. If it is not sufficiently browned, put it into the oven a quarter of an hour longer. Raised pies should be served on a neatly-folded napkin, and garnished with parsley. Raisin. Eaisins are simply grapes dried in the sun or in an oven. Those dried in the sun are much the best. There are several kinds : Muscatels, Valencias, Smyrna, and Eleme raisins, and Sultana raisins, which are without stones, and generally used in cookery. When making good cakes and puddings it is well worth while to use good iluscatel raisins, as they are much superior in flavour to the common ones, and especially as grocers frequently sell loose ones which answer excellently for the pui'pose at a cheaper rate than the bunches which are to be used for dessert. Raisin and Almond Pudding {see Almond and Kaisin Pudding). Raisin Cake. Beat half a pound of sweet butter to a cream. Add half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, half a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, three eggs well-beaten the yolks and whites separately a table-spoonful of brandy, and as much soda as will lie on a sixpence dissolved in a wine-glassful of hot milk. Beat the mixture till it is quite light. Stone half a pound of Muscatel raisins, and chop them small, roll them in flour, and stir them into the cake. Line a small cake-tin with buttered paper, three-parts fill it with the batter, and bake in a well-heated oven. In order to ascertain when the cake is done enough put a skewer into the middle of it, and if when drawn out it is bright and dry, the cake is done. If preferred, commoner raisins may of course be used, but the ]\Iuscatels are very mr.ch superior to them in flavour and quality. Time to bake, threequarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Raisin Cheese. Stone two pounds of raisins, and put them into a saucepan with one pound of sugar, three or four cloves, and half a nutmeg grated. Boil for an hour and a half, then take the pan from the fire, and when the cheese is a little cool pour it into the dish in which it is to be served. Garnish witli thin strips of candied fruit. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. RAI ( 703 ) RAI Raisin Elder Wine. Crush eight quarts of ripe elderberries in a tub or carllion pan, mix witli them live pounds of g-uod moist suf ar, and let them lie for twenty-four houi-s. Pick thirty-six pounds of good Malaga raisins from their stalks, stone and cut them small, and pour on them nine gallons of boiling soft water, then stir them well, and leave the vessel closely covered till the day following. Boil the olderberries and their juice half an hour, skimming well until quite clear, and strain it on to the raisins, stirring the mixtiu-e twenty minutes. In three days after this, strain the liquor v 'ell, put it into a ten-gallon cask upon the thin rinds of six lemons and two Seville oranges, and, lea vingthe bung-out, let it ferment; minding to keep the cask filled up as it works out. When it has ceased hissing, put in a quart of brandy, and stop it up for two months ; then rack it off into a clean vessel, filter the dregs, and fill the cask again, adding six ounces of sugar-candy and an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little. water. Secure the bung well, and let it stand ten months; then bottle it, seal the corks, and in six months more commence using it. Itobiniion. Raisin Pudding, Baked. Shred finely six ounces of beef suet. Mix with this threequarters of a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, the rind of a fresh lemon cut very small, threequarters of a pound of stoned raisins, and haH a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. Slix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir in with them three eggs and as much milk as will make a thick batter. This will be about a quarter of a pint. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake in a well-heated oven. Tm-n it out, sift powdered sugar over it, and it will be ready for serving. Time to bake, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Raisin Pudding, Boiled. Skred half a pound of beef suet very finely. ]\Iix with this four ounces of flour, two ounces of ground rice, a pinch of salt, four ounces of Demerara sugar, foiu" ounces of stoned raisins, and the grated rind of a small lemon. Mix the diy ingredients thoroughly, stir in with them a quarter of a pint of milk which has been beaten up with one egg and the strained juice of a lemon. Pour the mixture into a plain, well-buttered mould, tie it closely down, plunge it into plenty of fast-boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and serve with pudding sauce. Time to boil, thi-ee hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five jjersons. Raisin Pudding (economical). Shi-ed eight ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it one poimd of flour, a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar, a tea- spoonful of baking powder, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, and ten oimces of stoned raisins. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir in with them as much milk as will make a thick batter. Pour the preparation into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn out the pudding, strew sugar over it, and serve. This pudding may be boiled as well as baked. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Raisin Wine. March is the best time for nialdng raisin wine. Take eight pounds of fine Smyrna raisins for every gallon of water that is to be used. Pick the large stalks only from the raisins. Put them into a porft\ctly sound sweet tub, pour the water over them, and press them well down. Cover the tub, and stir the mixture exevy day for four weeks. Strain the liquor, and squeeze the raisins as dry as.possible. Put the wine into a cask, cover up the bunghole to keep out the dust, and when the hissing sound ceases, bung the hole closely, and leave the wine untouched for twelve months. Draw it off into a clean cask, and filter the dregs carefully through three or four folds of muslin. Bung it up again, and bottle it at the end of thi-ee years. If preferred, the wine may be bottled at the end of a twelvemonth, but it will be much improved by keeping. Those who prefer having a little brandy in the wine may put a bottle or more into the cask with the liquor. Good vinegar may be made from raisins which haA'e been used for wine. Time, four weeks to stir the liquor before putting it into the cask. Raisin Wine (another way). Take two hundredweight of raisins with all their stalks, put them into a large hogshead, and fill it up with water ; let them steep a fortnight, stirring them every day ; then pour off the liquor, and press the raisins. Put both liquors together into a nice clean vessel that will just hold it, but remember it must be quite full ; let it stand till it has done hissing or making the least noise, then stop it close, and let it stand six months. Peg it, and if you find it quite clear, rack it off into another vessel. Stop it again close, and let it stand three months longer; then bottle it, and when wanted for use rack it oft" into a decanter. Raisin Wine (another way). A raisin wine possessing the flavour of Fontaigne may be made in the following manner: Take six pounds of raisins, boil them in six gallons of water, and when perfectly soft rub them tkrough a colander to separate the stones. Add the pulp to the water in which the raisins have been boiled, pour this mixture upon twelve pounds of white sugar, and suft'er it to ferment, with the addition of half a pint of yeast. When the fermentation has nearly ceased, add to it a quarter of a peck of elder flowers contained in a bag, which should be suspended in the cask, and removed when the wine has acquned the desired flavour. "\\Tiicn the wine has become clear, it may be di-a\\n off into bottles. Accum. Raisin Wine (another way). Upon twenty-foul- pounds of raisins picked from the stalks pour six gallons of boiling water, and add six pounds of sugar ; let them macerate about fourteen nights, stirring every day ; then pour off the liquor, squeeze out the raisins, and add three-quarters of a pound of finelypowdered super-tartrate of potash. Put the liquor into a cask, reserving a sufficient quantity for filling up, and I'un off the wine when the fermentation has ceased. RAI ( 704) RAM Raisin "Wine Vinegar. Raisins from ?which wine has been made will make excellent vinegar, and as the stalks are very acid care should be taken to pick them out, and throw them into the cask in which the vinegar is being made. Take the raisins which have been used to make nine gallons of wine. Put with them the dregs and stalks, and pour four gallons of hot water over the whole. Cover the tub, and stir its contents occasionally. When no more goodness is to be got out of the fruit, strain the liquor, put it into a cask, and let it stand nine or ten months before it is bottled. Raisin Wine with Cider. Be sure that the cider is perfectly sound and good, and take five pounds of fine Malaga raisins for each gallon of cider that is to be used. Put the fruit and the cider into a cask, stir it every day for four days, bung it closely, and leave it untouched for six months. Draw it off into a clean cask of a suitable size, add a bottle of fine brandy, and bung it again. Bottle at the end of twelve months. Raisin Wine with Cider (a light wine) Cut thirty pounds of Malaga raisins, take out the stones, put them into a tub, and pomover them five gallons of boiling water ; add the rind of ten Se alle oranges and their juice ; stir all well ten minutes, and let them infuse ten days, closely covered up, stirring every day. Press the fruit in a hair bag, and strain the liquor through a fine sieve, put it into a sweet ten-gallon cask, and fill up with strong cider. Stir it twenty minutes, cover the bimg-hole with a tile, and let it ferment four or five days, filling up the cask as the liquor works out. When it has ceased hissing, dissolve half a pound of sugarcandy and an ounce of isinglass in two quarts of the wine ; pour it into the cask, stir well, and in two hours afterwards add a quart of French brandy. Stop up the bung, paste paper over it, put sand upon that, and leave it twelve months in a cool cellar. You may then bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it nine or ten months in the bottles. Robinson. Raisin Wine with Cider (a strong wine). Take forty pounds of Malaga raisins, pick them from the stalks, cut them in halves, put them into a sweet eighteengallon cask, fill it up vith good sound cider, and bung it Kghtly. After three or four days, secure the bung, and at the end of six months draw off into a tub all that runs clear ; press the liquor from the fruit into another vessel, filter this and the lees through a flannel bag, and put the whole into a ten-gallon cask, with two quarts of French brandy, the thin yeUow rind of three fresh lemons and four Seville oranges, and half a pound of sugarcandy crushed small. Bung the cask securely ; after twelve months, bottle the wine, seal the corks, and keep it for two years. Raisins, Baba with {see Baba, &c.) Raisins, Varieties of. The following interesting information about raisins is from " Borwick's Monthly Circular " The muscatels are the most highly esteemed, and are prepared by cutting the stalk half off that bears the bunch when the grapes are fully ripe, removing all leaves that can shade them, and allowing them thus to dry in the sun. These are called "raisins of the sun." The bunches are carefully removed, and packed in boxes in layers, with a paper separating each layer. A more common kind called Icxias is prepared by collecting the grapes when ripe, and dipping them into a lye made from the ashes produced by burning the branches of the vine. These are mostly from Valentia, as the preceding kinds are from Malaga both from Southern Spain. A small black raisin comes from Smyrna, in Asia Minor. It is dry, and generally used for culinary purposes. Another variety from Turkey in Asia, called Sultanas, is put up in drums, and although small, is delicious. What we call currants, from the Grecian Islands, are really raisins, and should be so designated. They are small, seedless grajies, growing on the Islands of Zante, Corfu, and Cephalonia, on the western coast of Greece. Raisins are imported in casks, barrels, boxes, and jars. The finest come in jars and quarter-boxes weighing about twentj'five pounds. Some of the inferior sorts are brought to us in mats. The muscatels from IMalaga fetch fully a third more than any other description of raisins. The Smyrna black is the cheapest variety. The price depends much on the season and the period of the year. Raisinee. This is a rob, or sweetmeat, much thought of in France. Boil new wine, and skim it till only haK the quantity remains. Strain it, add apples pared and cut into quarters, and let it simmer gently till the apples are thoroughly mixed with the wine, which will then be found to have a very agreeable acid taste. Cider may be used instead of wine. Raisine de Bourgogne (a French recipe). Press the juice from very ripe grapes, which put into a preserving-pan, and let it boil till it is reduced one-half ; skim and stir it all the time that it may not stick to the pan. Peel, quarter, and core some ripe pears, put them into the juice, and let them boil tiU it is again reduced by a third, when the pears will be done. You must keep stirring all the time. Put them into pots, and let them stand one night in the oven. A. Von Kochheim. Ramakin or Cheese Pudding. Grate half a pound of good old Cheshire cheese, and mix a large table-spoonful of flour with it. Stir in gradually a little milk to moisten the cheese, and afterwards add three or four wellbeaten eggs, and as much milk as will make the batter of the consistency of cream. Half fill a buttered dish with the mixture, place little pieces of butter here and there upon the surface, and bake the pudding in a brisk oven. When it is well risen and of a golden colour it is done enough. Serve as quickly as possible after it is taken out of the oven, or it will spoil. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Ramakins (served with the cheese course). Grate two ounces each of two kinds of cheese of different flavour, such as Parmesan RAM ( 705 ) HAM and Gruyere, Cheshire and Gloucester. Soak the crumb of a small roll in boiling milk for ten minutes, strain it, and put it in a mortar with the grated cheese, two ounces of fresh butter, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and a little pepper and salt. Pound these ingredients well together, and when smooth add the well whisked whites of the eggs. IMake some small paper trays, about an inch deep and three inches square, half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. Serve quickly. A spoonful of Hght wine may be added to the batter if liked. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Ramakins (another way). Put a saucepan on the fire with the third of a pint of milk, two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of salt. Add gradually two tea-spoonfuls of tioui-, beat the mixture till quite smooth, and stir it for five minutes, or until it is quite hot. Take it oif the tire, and add two ounces of grated Parmesan, Gruyere, or Cheshii-e cheese, four well-beaten eggs, and a little pepper and pounded mace. Make some little paper trays about an inch deep and three inches square. Half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a gentle oven. The batter for the ramakins ought to be as thick as cream. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Ramakins, Dutch. Grate two ounces of Cheshire cheese, and piit it in a marble mortar with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and a slice of fresh butter. One anchovy may be added if liked. Pound the mixture till quite smooth. Toast a large shce of bread, butter it, and spread the mixture thickly upon it. Cut it into small squares. Bake these in a Dutch oven, or brown them by holding a salamander over them for two or thi-ee minutes, and serve very hot, neatly arranged on a folded napkin. Ramakins, German. Take a pint of now milk, and simmer it in a saucepan, but do not let it boil ; by degrees add three handfuls of flour, stirring all the time. When the paste is smooth and without lumps, put in a little salt, a piece of butter, and a quarter of a pound of Parmesan or Gruyere cheese, or both mixed not grated, but cut into small slices. Stir the whole on the fire till the preparation is perfectly mixed. "VXTien it is boiled enough which may readily be ascertained, as the paste will then easily roll from the saucepan take it off the tire, beat up three eggs, and stir them in, keeping the paste hot till the moment of serving. Butter a dish that will stand the fire, or a baking-tin, j)our in the paste, and set it in a moderate oven. The cake will rise in ten minutes, like a souffle, and be of a fine yellow colour. Serve at once. Ramakins, Fried. Slice thinly four ounces of nch cheese, and put it into a delicately clean saiicepan with two ounces of fresh butter. Shake these over c g- ntle fire till they are melted, lot them cool a minute or two, and stir in briskly the whites of three eggs beaten to a firm froth. Put some small squares of bread into the frying-pan with a little hot butter, spread the mixture upon the bread, and fry the ramakins for five minutes. Drain them 47 from the fat, hold a salamander or red-hot iron over them till they are lightly browned, and serve very hot. Ramakins Pastry. Take any pieces of good puif-paste left from making pies or tarts, or if these are not at hand make a small quantity of good pufl: paste. Grate half its weight in Parmesan cheese, roll the pastry out evenly, and sprinkle the cheese lightly over it. Fold it in three, and roll it out lightly : repeat this once or twice until the pastry and cheese are well mixed. Stamp the ramakins out with a small pastry cutter of any shape that may be desii-ed, brush them over with yolk of egg, and bake in a brisk oven. As soon as they are done enough serve them quickly, neatly arranged on a hot napkin. Although Parmesan cheese is the best for this purpose, any dry white cheese may be used instead. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Ramakins, Pastry {sec Pastry Eamakins). Ramakins with Ale or Wine. Soak the crumb of a French roll in a cupful of boiling cream for a few minutes. Put it in a mortar with four ounces of grated Gloucester, four ounces of grated Cheshire cheese, and four ounces of good butter. Pound the mixture well, and beat it thoroughly with the beaten yolks of four eggs, and a wine-glassful of ale or wine. HaK fill some small paper trays with the mixture, and bake the ramakins in a gentle oven, or in a Dutch oven before the fire. Serve very hot. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Ramazan Cakes (a Turkish recipe). Take half a pound of rice-flour, and dilute it with two glasses of milk ; pass the preparation through a sieve into a stewpan. Boil over a moderate fire, stirring all the time. Add sugar to taste, let it reduce for seven or eight minutes, then add a few drops of extract of roses or of jessamine, turn it out on a round baking-sheet, previously moistened with cold water. Let the preparation be nearly an inch in thickness, and smooth its surface. When it is cold, sprinkle it with fine sugar, and divide it into small cakes, lozenge-shaped, round or oblong, according to taste. Ramskin. This is a sort of cake said to have been invented at Croxteth Hall, the seat of Lord Sefton, from which circumstance it is sometimes called " Sefton Fancy." Take grated cheese of some dry kind, such as Parmesan or the white hard Enghsh varieties, incorporated with dough as prepared for fine puif paste ; roll it out, cut it into shapes, glaze with white of egg, and bake for a quarter of an hour. It is usually eaten hot. Rampion. The root of this plant, which is white and spindle-shaped, used to be much in request for the table under the name of rampion or ramps. The plant is now little cultivated in Britain, but it is still commonly grown in France for the sake of the roots, which are used either boiled or as a salad, and of its young leaves, which are also employed as a salad. The esculent roots are far more delicate than turnips or radishes; the seeds are ophthalmic. The root, either sliced together with its leaves in salads, or eaten as the radish, as well as boiled BAR ( 706 ) HAS like asparagus, is most palatable when drawn young, and eaten fresh from the ground. Rare-bit, Welsh. Brillat Savarin, the famous French Gourmet, gives the follo ving recipe taken from the papers of M. Trollet, bailiff in Meudon, in the Canton of Berne : " Take as many eggs as you wish, according to the number of guests, and weigh them ; then take a piece of cheese weighing a third of the weight of the eggs, and a slice of butter weighing a sixth ; beat the eggs well up in a saucepan, after which put in the butter and cheese, the latter either grated or chopped up very small ; place the saucepan on a good fire, and stir it with a flat spoon until the mixture becomes sufiiciently thick and soft ; add a little salt and a large portion of pepper, and serve it up in a hot dish. Bring out the best wine, and let it go round freely, and wonders will be done." Rare-bit, Welsh (another way). The following is a cheaper recipe than the above, and the result is in no way inferior : Cut as much cheese as is necessary into small pieces ; add a lump of butter and a little ale ; mix in a saucepan on a good fire until it is well amalgamated ; add pepper and salt and a little mustard ; pour out upon a square of toast on a hot dish. A fine glass of beer will go with this as pleasantly as Bi-illat Savarin's wine. Some people add a httle beef gravy to the rare-bit when it is simmering in the saucepan, and just a dash of chopped garlic. Rashers, Gardeners'. Take a saddle of mutton, and cut ofl: the skin that is over the fat without stripping the fiUet. Cut the saddle in two, and each of these two pieces into three or four- ; braize them Hke mutton with soubise sauce; do not leave too much fat, and glaze them of a nice coloui\ The rashers may be served with haricot sauce, or endive or spinach. Raspberries. The raspberry is a delicious fruit, extensively used in cookery and in the RASPBERRIES. manufacture of various cordials. Though very wholesome and refreshing, it is scarcely so highly esteemed as either the strawberry or the red currant. There are two kinds of raspberries the red and the white. The white are the rarer of the two. This fruit is a native of Great Britain, and is often met with in woods, in low-lying situations. To most tastes it is very grateful as nature presents it, but by the addition of sugar it is much improved; the raspberry is, therefore, much esteemed when used for jams and tai-ts and made into sweetmeats. " The ancients hardly mention the raspberry-tree, which they placed on a level with the bramble. The Latins called it ' Bramble of Ida,' because it was common on that mountain. There can be no doubt, however, that the Romans knew how to appreciate the raspberry-tree so much esteemed in our days." Soyer. The fruit of the different varieties of raspberry is in season from the end of June or July till October or later. As it ripens it should be timely gathered for immediate use ; because when fully ripe it will not keep above two or three daj s before it moulds, or becomes maggoty and unfit to be used. Raspberries, Bottled (for Winter Tarts, Creams, or Ices) . Pick the raspberries carefully without bruising them, and look into each one to see that no little insects are lurking in the heart of the fruit. Put the raspberries into clean dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cover them with syrup made by boiling till clear three pounds of sugar with a quart of water which has been whisked uj) with a tea-spoonful of the white of an egg. Cork the bottles down tightly, and tie the corks with string. Place them carefully in a large saucepan with cold water to reach up to their necks. Put the saucepan on the fire, and bring the water to the boiling point. Draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes, lift it down, and let the bottles remain untouched till the water is cold. Examine the corks, and if necessary tie them down again, cover with wax, and store for use. In order to prevent the bottles cracking in the water, it will be a Avise precaution to wrap a band of straw round each one. Probable cost of raspberries, 2d. to 6d. per pint. Raspberries, Bottled, without Boiling. Choose freshly-gathered and perfectly dry raspberries. Pick and weigh them, and take their weight in finely-powdered white sugar. Bruise them slightly, and fill dry widenecked bottles with layers of fruit and sugar in equal quantities. Cork the bottles immediately, and cover the corks with bladder which has been moistened with spirits of wine. Store in a very cool, airy situation, or the fruit may ferment. Raspberries, Compote of, Pick a pint of fresUy-gathered and perfectly soimd raspberries, or if preferred take half a pint of raspberries and half a pint of red currants. Boil five ounces of loaf sugar in a quarter of a pint of water for ten minutes, put in the picked fruit, and let it simmer gently for six minutes. Lift the raspberries out carefully, and put them into a glass dish. Let the sjTup boil a minute longer, and when it is cold pour it over the fruit. Serve as an accompaniment to simple milk puddings of various kinds. Time, twenty RAS ( 707 ) RAS minutes. Probable cost, 5d. to Sd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Raspberries, Compote of (a German recix e). Bruise a ciuart of sound raspberries thoroughly, put them into a glass dish, and sprinkle a pound of powdered sugar over them. Let them lie in a cool place for a couple of hours, then pour over them a quart of thin claret, and a quart of cold water. Send spongecake or any Hght cake to table with them. Time, two hours. Raspberries, Iced for Dessert. Take as many fine freshly-gathered raspberries as will be wanted. Whisk the white of an egg, and stir in with it two table-spoonfuls of cold spring water. Dip the raspberries one by one in the liquor, drain them, and roll them in finely powdered and sifted sugar. Lay them on paper to dry, and arrange them prettily with other fi-uits in a dessert dish. Time to dry, six or eight hours. Probable cost of raspberries, 2d. to 6d. per pint. Raspberries, Prepared for Dessert. An hour before it is to be used, take up the fruit, examine it, and carefully remove every hull, and every imperfect or decayed portion. Have ready a basin of cold water. Take a small handful of raspberries at a time, and pass them quickly through the water without allowing them to remain in it for a second. Put them into the dish in which they are to be served, and sprinkle powdered white sugar plentifully over them. This process will freshen the fruit, and not do it any harm. Care should be taken not to touch the fruit after it has been picked until within an hour before it is to be served. Raspberries, Preserved. Take a sufficient quantity of raspberries before they are quite ripe. Allow four ounces of sugar to each bottle. " It cannot be too much recommended to those who have raspberries in great quantities to preserve them in this way, as it is a great resource in those seasons when none can be had." Raspberries, Preserved (a French recipe) . Take f oiu- pounds of raspbemes picked from the stalks, set aside at least half, which should be the finest, add to the rest one pound of white currants, and bruise and strain them through a cloth, wringing it so as to extract all the juice. Put the juice into a preserving-pan, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice, including the weight of the raspberries left whole. Let the sugar and juice boil, skimming it, and at the end of twenty minutes put in the rest of the fruit, and let it boil for ten minutes longer. "When the preserve is boiled enough it is so if the syrup jellies when a little is put on a plate to cool take it off the fire, and pot in the usual way. Raspberries, Preserved Whole. Gather the raspberries on a dry day when the sun is not upon them. Strip off the stalks, weigh the fruit, and allow three pounds of sugar for four pounds of fruit. Boil the sugar with a very small quantity of water till it is quite clear, put in the raspberries, and simmer them gently for five minutes. Lift them out carefully, and drain them. Boil the syrup till small beads appear on its surface, put in the raspberries, boil them another five minutes, take them up, and drain them again. Boil the syrup till large bubbles are formed, put in the raspberries a third time, and when taking them out bo especially careful, or they will break. Put them at once into perfectly dry jars or glasses, and cover them closely to exclude the air. Store in a cool airy place. Raspberries, Wliite, Preserved Whole. Pick four pounds of raspberries, perfectly sound and dry, and take their weight in refined sugar. Set aside one pound of the sugar, powder and sift it, and boil the remainder to candy height. Put the raspberries very gently into this, and let them boil for five minutes, take them from the fire, and sprinkle the pound of sugar over them. Let them remain until cold, then put them again into the preserving pan with another pound of powdered sugar and a pint of clear white currant juice, and let them boil gently imtil the fruit is clear. Remove the scum as it rises, and be very careful to take off the raspbeii-ies before they fall. Put them with a spoon one by one into jars, boil the syrup till the bubbles are large, pour it over them, and cover the jars in the usual way. Raspberry and Cream Tart. Roll out a thin puft'-paste, lay it in a patty-pan, piut in raspberries, and strew finoh -jjowdered loafsugar over them. Put on a Ud; and when baked enough, cut the lid open, and put in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and a little sugar. Raspberry and Currant Jam. Take freshly gathered dry fruit, and put a quarter of a pound of raspberries with each pound of red currants. Place the fruit in a perfectly clean preserving pan, with its weight in loaf sugar broken up into small lumps. Stir it occasionally until it boils, skim carefully, and boil gently for thice-quarters of an hour. Tirm it into jars, and cover in the usual way. Store in a cby airy place. Time to boil, thi-ee-quarters of an hour from the time the jam boils. Raspberry and Currant Jelly. Strip the stalks from two pounds of juicy red currants and one pound of \\-hite cuiTants, and put them into an earthenware jar with a cupful of fresh sound raspberries and a pound of loaf sugar. Put on the cover, place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and keep it simmering gently until the juice flows freely. Pour it off, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it is bright and clear. Put two ounces of isinglass or gelatine with a pint of cold water into a perfectly clean saucepan. Stir this on the fire till it boils, then draw it to the side, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. A few minutes before it is taken off the fire, put in -w-ith it a spoonful of cold water, a lump of sugar, and a tea-spoonful of good 'inegar. Stii- it for a minute, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain through a jelly-bag, mix it with the filtered juice, pour it into a mould, and put it in a cold place or upon ice to set. Probable cost, 3s. Cd. BAS ( 708) RAS Raspberry and Currant Mould. Soak two ounces of gelatine in half a pint of cold water for an hour. Strip the stalks from a pound of raspberries and a pound of red cm-rants. Put these into a saucepan with half a pint of water and half a pound of loaf sugar, place them on the fire, stir them frequently to keep them from burning, and let them boil. Let them boil for four or five minutes until the sugar is perfectly dissolved, and rub the pulp through a hair sieve. Set the gelatine on the fire, and let it boil until it is dissolved, mix it with the pulp, and pour the mixture into a mould made open in the centre. When it is stiff, turn it out upon a glass dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream sweetened and flavoured ; pile this high in the middle, and serve. If necessary, two or three drops of cochineal may be added to the jelly to heighten its colour. Suflicient for a quart mould. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the cream. Raspberry and Currant Tart {see Currant and Raspberry Tart). Raspberry and Currant Wine. Pick fifteen quarts of ripe red currants from the stalks, poui- upon them four gallons of cold river water that has been boiled, and cover the ?vessel close until the next day. Then pick twenty quarts of red raspberries nicely, pour on them six gallons of cold water, and cover ihem also closely. Press the juices out of the fruits in a hair bag, and first strain, and then filter each separately into the cask ; stir into it thirty-six pounds of strong, bright moist sugar, .and covering the bung-hole with a tile, leave it to ferment -without yeast. Keep the cask filled up, and when it has ceased hissing, add to it two quarts of French brandy, then stop it up securely at the bung, but leave the vent-peg out three days, then fasten that in, and set the barrel in a cool cellar for three months. It must now be racked and returned into the cask, the lees being well filtered, the bung well secured, and left nine months ; then bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it in bottle a year longer. Robinson. Raspberry and Rhubarb Jam (an excellent family preserve). Choose sound, newlygathered raspben'ies and well-grown juicy rhubarb, and weigh them after the rhubarb has been pared and the ra.spben-ies have been stripped from the stalks. Take double the weight ?of raspberries to that of rhubarb, and allow three pounds of powdered loaf sugar to every four pounds of fruit. Slice the rhubarb, put it into a preserving-pan, and let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hom- from the time it begins to boil, stirring it occasionally to keep it from burning to the bottom of the pan. Add the raspberries, and boil them half an hour. Stir in the sugar, and boil the jam until it vill set when a little is put upon a plate. Pour it immediately into jars, and cover these in the usual way. Keep the jam in a dry airy place. Probable cost, 6 d. per lb. Raspberry Biscuits. Pick and weigh some fine ripe ra.spberries, put them in an earthen jar, set this in a pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling until the juice flows freely. Pass juice and pulp through a sieve, mix with it the weight of the fruit before it was put into the oven in pounded sugar, and boil briskly, beating it well all the time until it forms a dry paste, and be very careful that it does not burn. Put it into small moulds about half an inch thick ; diy these in a hot screen or a cool oven for twenty-four hours or more, and store for use. Raspberry biscuits are used for dessert. Time, about three houi-s. Probable cost of raspberries, 2d. to 6d. per pint. Raspberry Blancmange. Take two pottles of raspberries. Bruise the fruit a little, and place it in a preserving-pan high above a clear fire, that the juice may be gently drawn from it. Soak an ounce and a half of gelatine in cold spring water for an hour. Strain the juice from the raspberries, and boil it with half a pound of loaf sugar and the gelatine until the latter is dissolved. Add gradually threequarters of a pint of cream, and stir this well in. Pour the blancmange into a damp mould, and put it in a cold place until it is set. Turn it out, and serve. Time, altogether, one hour and a half. Raspberry Brandy (sometimes called Raspberry Ratafia). Strip the stalks from a quart of freshly-gathered ripe raspben-ies, put them into a bowl, and pour over them two quarts of genuine brandy. Stir the fruit in the liquor, and bruise it well, cover it closely to exclude the air, and let it soak for ten or twelve days. Add half a pound of loaf sugar boiled with two or three table-spoonfuls of water till it is a clear syrup. Stir this well in, strain the liquor through a jeUy-bag, and bottle it. At the end of a fortnight pour it out gently, filter it, and when bright and clear put it into fresh bottles ; cork these closely, and store for use. Or, bruise the fruit a little, and gently draw the juice from it. Add half a pint of good brandy to a quart of the juice, together with a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled to sjTup. Strain the liqueur, and bottle closely. A larger proportion of sugar may be used if liked. Raspberry Brandy (another way). Gather the fruit in fine weather, and pick it nicely ; measure it, and put it into a clean stonejar , fix in the bung, tie leather over it, and set it in a saucepan of hot water on the fire, or on a hot hearth, to boU till the juice is all extracted. Strain off the liquor through a fine sieve, and add for each quart of fruit one pound of best loaf sugar roughly broken ; boil it ten minutes, skimming all the time. When cold, measure the sjTup, and adding to it the same quantity of French brandy, mix them well ten minutes at least. Then "filter it clear . fill half pint bottles, corking and sealing them, and keep the liqueur twelve months. Raspberry Brandy (another way). 5c? Brandy, Raspberry. Raspberry Cake. Pick a pint of freshlygathered ripe rasj berries. Put them into a saucepan, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of sugar over them, and shake the saucepan over a gentle fire until the juice flows. Before the raspberries can fail, lift them out, boil the syrup till it is clear and thick, and pour it out. Beat to a cream a piece of fresh butter the size of a large egg. Add a table-spoonful of powdered BAS ( 709 ) HAS sugar, a t able-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, two or three drops of almond flavouring, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, then add the -whites of the eggs whisked to a froth. Line a tartlet-tin an inch deep with good pastry, cover this with the raspberries, pour the syrup over them, and spread the mixture on the top. Bake in a brisk oven. When the pastry is done enough, the cake is ready. Time to bake, half an hour to thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, about Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Raspberry Cream. Pick one pint of raspberries. Bruise them well, and put them into a saucepan with three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let them boil quickly till the juice flows freely, and strain it off for use. If fresh fruit cannot be had, dissolve as much raspberry jelly as will make a third of a pint, or mix half a pound of raspberry jam with two table- spoonfuls of water, and strain off the juice. Boil one and a half ounces of isinglass or soaked gelatine with three-quarters of a pint of milk till it is dissolved. Add a pint of cream, the raspberry juice, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little sugar if neccssaiy. Whisk the mixture till it begins to thicken, pour it into a mould which has been soaked in cold water, and put in a cold place till it is set. Turn it out carefully just before serving, or, if preferred, serve it in glasses. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the isinglass in the milk. Probable cost, 4s. Raspberry Cream, (another way). Take some ripe raspberries, bruise, and sprinkle a little sugar over them, let them lie for half an hour, and rub them through a hair sieve. Measure the pulp, and mix with it an equal quantity of thick cream and sugar to sweeten it sufficiently. Whip it well with a whisk, and as the froth forms place it on an inverted sieve to drain. 'VMien no more can be obtained, slice three or four sponge biscuits, lay them in a glass dish, and spread a little raspberry jam over them. Pour over them the remainder of the cream and the drippings from the whip, and just before the cream is to be served pile the froth on the top. If fresh fruit cannot be had, dissolved raspberry jelly or raspberry jam mixed -with a spoonful or two of water and rubbed thi-ough a sieve may be used in its place. Time, one hour to whip the cream. Raspberry Cream (another way). Bruise the fruit as in the last recipe, sprinkle sugar over it, and in half an hour drain off the juice. Measure it, and take the same quantity of thick cream ; sw-eeten and flavour this, and whip it briskly with white of egg {sec Whipped Cream). As the whip forms lay it on a sieve to drain. When a sufficient quantity is obtained, beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the remainder of the cream, and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens hke custard. Let it get cold, mix the raspberry juice with it, lay it in a glass dish, and pile the whip on the top. If fresh fruit cannot be had, this cream may be made, like the others, from preserved jelly or jam. Time, one hour or more to whip the cream. Raspberry Cream. Ice. Mix a pound of fresh ripe raspberries with the juice of a lemon, half a pound of powdered sugar, and a pint and a half of thick cream, or, if preferred, a pint of cream and half a pint of milk. Beat the mixture in a basin, rub it through a sieve, freeze in the usual Avay, and leave it in the ice-pail till it is wanted. If more convenient, raspberry jam or raspberry' jelly may be used instead of the fresh fruit, and when this is done very Little sugar will be required. A still more agreeable and refreshing ice-cream may be made with two portions of red currants mixed with one portion of raspberries instead of raspberries alone. Raspberry Creams without Milk or Cream..- Dissolve two ounces of raspberry jelly, stir into this an equal weight of finelypowdered and sifted sugar, and add the wellwhisked whites of two eggs. Beat the mixture till it is very thick, and serve in custard glasses. Time, about one hour. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for two glasses. Raspberry Custard. Bruise lightly some freshly-gathered ripe raspbeiries, sprinkle a little sugar over them, and heat them gently to draw out the juice. Pour the juice off, and with a pint of it mix very gradually the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir the custard over a gentle fire for a few minutes, pour it out, and when it is cool mix with it a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice and a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Serve in glasses. Time, six or seven minutes to heat the custard. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Sufficient for four or five giassfuls. Raspberry Drops. Bruise one pound of ripe raspberries, and strain the juice through a sieve. Dissolve a pound of loaf sugar with a little water, add the raspberry juice, and boil the syrup to candy height. Drop it at once as evenly and regularly as possible upon paper rubbed over with butter, or upon oiled plates, and dry the drops in a warm place. When hard, take them off with the point of a knife. Raspberry Flummery. Soak an ounce of isinglass in cold water for an hour. Put a pound of raspberry jam, or, better stiU, a pound of fresh raspberries, into a preserving-pan with half a pint of white-wine vinegar. Stir the mixture constantly till it boils, let it simmer a, few minutes, and rub it through a sieve. Boil the isinglass until it is dissolved, mix with it the raspberry pulp and as much sugar as will sweeten it sufficiently. Boil the mixture once more, and pass it through muslin into a mould which has been well soaked in col-d water. Put it in a cold ])lace, and when it is set tui-n it out carefully. If liked, gelatine may be used instead of isinglass. Time, five minutes to boil the fruit with the vnnegar. Raspberry Fool. Put a pint of raspberries into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and let them stew till tender. Rub them through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and mix with the pulp as much cream or milk as will make it of the consistency of custard. Serve cold. When cream is not to HAS ( 710) HAS be had, and it is desired that the preparation should he richer than it would be if cream only ?were used, the yolks of two eggs may be added to three-quarters of a pint of milk, and stirred over the tire until it begins to thicken without boiling. Time, ten minutes to stew the raspberries. Probable cost, 2s. if made with cream. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Raspberry Fritters. Bruise some fresh raspberries, sweeten them, and di-aw off the juice. Crumble two sponge biscuits, pour over them half a quarter of a pint of boiling cream or milk, and leave them in a cool place for half an hour. Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs, mix them with the biscuits, and add as much raspberry jidce as will make the batter a bright pink colour. Take the fritters up in a dessert-spoon, lay them carefully in boiling fat, and fry them till they are set. Drain them, lay them on a dish, garnish half of them with sliced almonds, and the other half with sliced candied peel or fruit, and ornament the dish with bright-coloured sweets of any kind. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Raspberry Gin. Put two quarts of freshlj'-gathered ripe raspberries into a stone spirit jar with two pounds of sugar candy and three pints of unsweetened gin. Cork the jar, and shake it well every day for a month. Put it in a cool place, and at the end of twelve months pom- it olf carefully, filter, and bottle for use. It ought to bo bright and clear. Raspberry Ice. Take a pint of the pressed juice of raspberries, add sugar to taste, and pour it into an ice-form ; set it in the icepail, and stir with a silver spoon always one way till it is quite frozen through. Let the ice remain in the ice-pail till wanted. Strawberries, currants, and mulberries may all be treated in this way. Raspberry Icing. Put the white of an egg into a bowl, stir in \vith it a pound of powdered and sifted sugar and as much raspberry jttice as will make a smooth paste. Whip it well till it is thick and light, spread it at once over whatever is to be covered with it, and dry in a cool oven. Raspberry Jam. As raspberries verj' soon turn mouldy after they are gathered, it is most important that fresh fruit should be used. Pick the rasi berries, put them into a preserving-pan, and bruise them with the back of a wooden spoon. Put them on the fire, and lot them boil for half an hour from the time when they boil equally all over. Stir in half their weight of roughly-powdered sugar, and when this is melted boil the jam for ten minutes. Skim carefully after the sugar is added, or it will not be clear. Pour it while hot into small jars. When cold, lay writing-paper dipped in brandy on the top, and cover the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with white of egg, or with strong gum water. Store in a dry, airy place. Probable cost, 6d. to 9d. per pound. Raspberry Jam (another way). When it is not convenient to boil the fruit as soon as it is gathered, or when perfectly fresh fruit cannot be obtained, raspberries may be preserved as follows : Weigh the raspberries, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit. Put the fruit and sugar in layers upon a large dish, and let them remain for some hours. When they are to be boiled, put fruit and sugar together into a preser\angpan, stir the jam to keep it from burning, and let it boil gently for three-quarters of an hour from the time it begins to boil. Eemove the scum as it rises, or the jam will not be clear. Put it into jars, cover, and store in the usual way. Probable cost, Gd. to 9d. per pound. Raspberry Jam (another way). Mash a quantity of fine ripe dry raspberries, strew on them their own weight of loaf sugar, and add half their weight of white-currant juice. BoU. them half an hour over a clear slow fire, skim well, and put them into pots or glasses; tie down with brandied papers, and keep them dry. Strew on the sugar as soon as possible after the berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their flavoui- they must not stand long before they are boiled. Raspberry Jam (superior). Pick four pounds of freshly-gathered raspberries, and put them into a preserving-pan with one pint of red currant juice. Let them boil for a quarter of an hour, skim well, and add four pounds of loaf sugar. Boil the jam again, and keep it boiling for half an horn-. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, or the jam will not be bright and clear. Put it into jars ; cover in the usual way. Raspberry Jelly. Pick the stalks from some perfectly ripe and freshly-gathered raspberries, and put them into a stone jar. Bruise them slightly, cover the jar, place it in a pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling gently until the juice flows freely. Lay a piece of muslin in a fine hair sieve, and keep pouring off the juice till no more will flow. The fruit must not be squeezed, and if the juice is at all thick it should be strained through a jelly bag. Measure the juice, and put it into a preser%dng-pan with a pound of loaf-sugar (in lumps) to each pint of juice. Stir occasionally, skim carefully, and boil gently until it sets when a little is poured upon a plate. Put the jelly into small jars, and when cold cover in the usual way. Store in a dry, airy place. The flavour of this jeUy wiU be improved if one part of red cuiTant juice is used with two parts of raspberry juice. If the fruit is not drained till quite dry, it may be boiled with half its weight of sugar to make common jam. Time, about one hour to draw the juice ; half an hour to boil it with the sugar. Probable cost, 9d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient, two quarts of raspberries should j-ield about one pint of juice. Raspberry Jelly (another way.) Take half a pound of fresh, ripe-plucked raspberries, and put them in a basin. Add two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, crush the fruit, and pour it on a fine sieve held over a china bowl placed to receive the juice. Add to the rasj berry juice the juice of two oranges, and filter on a sieve or thi'ough a glass funnel, with paper without glue HAS (711 ) HAS well softened with water aud torn up into little bits. " This method of iiltering fruit," says M. Dubois, "is the best and simplest of all." Take fifteen or sixteen leaves of gelatine, and dissolve them in water enough to three-parts fill a jeUy-mould ; add three-quarters of a pound of l owdered sugar, and then clarify the mixture with two whites of eggs and the juice of a few lemons. When the mixtiu'e becomes limpid, add the juice of the raspberries and pom- it immediatelj into a jelly-mould embedded in pounded ice. Let it stand for three-quarters of an hour, and then tui-n the jelly out on a dish, having previously dipped the mould in warm water. Jelly made with the juice of red fruit, should not be allowed to remain long in a tin mould, for contact with it injures their colour. Raspberry Jelly, Isinglass (see Isinglass Jelly, Currant and Raspberry). Raspberry Liqueur. Put a pint of freshly-gathered ripe raspberries into a spirit jar, w-ith a quart of genuine spirit of any kind. Cork closely, and leave it for a month. Boil a pound of sugar in a pint and a half of water till it is clear syrup. Filter the spirit through a fine hair sieve into a basin, mix it with the syrup, and bottle for use. Time, one month. Sufilcient for two quarts of liqueur-. Raspberry Lozenges, Boil two or three pounds of raspberries tiU they are almost dry. Add as much moist or powdered sugar as the fruit weighed to begin with. Stir this in off the fire, and when the fruit and sugar are ?thoroughly mixed, spread the preparation upon oiled plates, and let it vy either in the sun or before a slow fire. When the surface is di-y, stamp the paste into lozenges of any shape or size ; expose these again to a gentle heat, ana when they are quite di-y store them in single layers between sheets of writing-paper. These lozenges will keep best in tin boxes with closelyfitting lids, and it is most important that they should be stored in a dry place. Time, twentyfour hours or more to diy the lozenges. Raspberry Omelet. Break three eggs into a basin, and add a tea-spoonful of sugar and two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream. Melt two oimces of butter in an omelet pan. Beat the eggs, &c., till they are quite frothy, and keep on beating them till the last moment. When the butter is frothing pour in the mixture, and stir quickly with a spoon, scraping the bottom of the frying-pan all the time till it begins to set. Draw it a little from the fire, and work the omelet into a half -moon shape. Hold it before the fire in a slanting position to make it rise, put a spoonful of raspberiy jam in the centre, and serve the omelet immediately. If jiref erred, the jam may be placed on one half of the omelet, and the other half turned completely over it. Time, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 8d. SuSicient for two persons. Raspberry Paste. Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half of the fruit, and put the juice to the other half; boil them a quarter of an hour, put to them a pint of red-cuiTant juice, and let them boil all together till the raspberries are done enough. Then put a pound and a half of double refined sugar into a clean pan with as much water as will dissolve it ; boil it to a sugar again ; then put in the raspberries and juice, scald, and pour them into glasses. Put them into a stove to diy, and turn them when necessary. Raspberry Pudding. Line a buttered basin with suet paste rolled out to the thickness of haK an inch. Fill it with fresh raspbeiTies, or with raspberries and red cui-rants mixed, and sprinkle a little sugar over the top. Cover the pudding with pastry, fold the edges securely over, put the basin into a floured cloth wrung out of boiling water, plunge it into a saucepan with boiling water to cover it, and let it boil quickly imtil done enough. If it is necessary to add water, let it be boiling. Tm-n the pudding out carefully, cut a small round from the top that the steam may escape, and servo immediately. In winter time very good puddings may be made with bottled raspberries. Time to boil a moderate-sized pudding, two hours to two houi'S and a half. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. Raspberry Pudding, Baked. Put a pint of fresh raspberries into a pie-dish, and sprinkle a little sugar over them. Beat the yolks of three eggs and the whites of two with a quarter of a pint of milk, add a little sugar, whisk the custard till it froths, and pour it over the fruit. Put it into the oven innnediately, and bake till the custard is set. Let it get cold, sift powdered sugar over, and serve. This pudding should not be eaten hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. to Is. Sufilcient for foiu- or five persons. Raspberry Pudding, Rich. Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, add a spoonful of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of cream, the beaten yolks of four eggs, and a table-spoonful of raspbeiTy jam. Line a shallow pie-dish vith puff paste. Pour in the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven till the pastry is done enough. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Raspberry Salad. Pick the raspberries, and examine each one for fear any insects should be lurldng in the heart of the fruit. Pile them on a dish, and sprinkle a little finelypowdered sugar upon them. Pour over them a few spoonfuls of wine, brandy, liqueur-, or even plain cream, and stu- the salad when serving it, so that an equal proportion of sauce and sugar may be given to each guest. The salad will be improved if some other fruit, such as white or red currants or strawberries are mixed with the raspberries. Raspberry Sauce. Raspberry sauce for sweet puddings of various kinds may be made in three or four- ways, as follows : Put equal quantities of picked raspberries and red currants into a saucepan with a small portion of sugar, and as much water as will cover the bottom of the pan. Let them simmer gently till they break, then rub them through a sieve. Bod the juice, and serve. Or, beat two eggs in a bowl ; mix smoothly with them a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of raspberry juice, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and whisk it over the KAS (712) HAS fire until it begins to thicken. Serve immediately. Or, mi.x haK a pint of raspberry juice with half a pint of cream. Whip the mixture till it is light and frothy, and serve at once. Or, put half a pint of raspberries into an earthen jar with three table-spoonfuls of cold water. !Set the jar in a pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling till the juice flows freely. Strain it, and mix. it smoothly with a table-spoonful of arrowroot which has been made into a paste with a little cold water. Add a glassful of light wine and a little sugar, and stir the mixture over the fire till it is on the point of boiling. Serve immediately. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained for these sauces, raspberry jam boiled and strained may be used instead. Raspberry Sauce (a Danish recipe.) Take some raspberries, put them in a cloth, and wring them to express the juice; add to the juice sugar, wine, and a little water ; set the mixture on the fire ; when it boils add a spoonful of potato-flour mixed with cold water, and give it one boil up. Raspberry Sponge. Soak three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine in a little cold ?water for an hour. Dissolve it, and mix with it a quarter of a pint of raspberry juice made either from jam or from the fresh fruit. Add half a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, the strained juice of a lemon, and as much sugar as is agreeable to the palate. Whisk the mixture in one direction until it thickens and looks like sponge, pour it into a damp mould, and turn it out when it is stiff. Time, half an hour or more to whisk the sponge. Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for a quart mould. Raspberry Syrup. Pick some ripe juicy raspberries, bruise them thoroughly, and let them stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Strain off the juice, and boil it with half a pound of loaf sugar to each pint of juice. Remove the scum as it rises, and boil the syrwp gently for half an hour. Let it cool, and pour it into small dry bottles. Cork these securely with perfectly sound corks, and store for use. Time, half an hour from the time the syrup boils. Probable cost of raspberries, 2d. to 6d. per pint. Raspberry Tart. FiU a pie-dish with picked raspberries, or, if preferred, with equal portions of raspberries and red currants. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, strew sugar over the top, and cover the fruit with pastry rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Ornament the edges, and bake the tart till the pastiy is done enough. When cold sift powdered sugar over the top, and serve. Raspberry tart is not very often served hot. When a superior tart is required, bake the tart till the pastry is done enough. Take it out of the oven, gently lift up the cover, and pour over the fruit a rich custard made with half a pint of cream which has been beaten up with the yolks of two eggs. Lay the cover again on the dish, and return it to the oven for five minutes. Sift powdered sugar over the top, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake, threequarters of an hour for a moderate-sized tart. Raspberry Vinegar. Raspberry vinegar diluted with water makes a most refreshing di-ink in hot weather and in cases of fever or cold. The proportions must be rogvdated by taste. Generally it will bo found that a dessert-spoonful is sufiicient for a tumbler full of water. Raspberry Vinegar, To Make. Put two quarts of good white- wine vinegar into a large stone jar with two quarts of picked ra. pberries. Tie a piece of muslin over the top, and let it stand for a week, stirring every day. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve, and with every pint put one pound of loaf sugar. Stir these ingredients together, and when the sugar is dissolved cover the jar. Put it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil gently for an hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises. "When cold cork and bottle the vinegar, and seal the corks. Some cooks put a glassful of bx'andy with each pint of raspberry vinegar. A glazed jar must be avoided, as it will make the A'inegar imwholesome. Time, eight diiys. Raspberry Vinegar (another way). Take a quantity of very ripe raspberries, and fill a wide-mouthed bottle or stone jar with as many of them as will go in without pressing them ; take as much good vinegar as will entirely cover them, and pour it over. Let the raspberries infuse for eight days, at the end of which time pour the whole on a tamis, and press the fruit so as to extract all the juice; when the vinegar is perfectly clear and impregnated with the fragrance of the fruit, weigh it, and for every pound of liquor take a pound and three-quarters of good lump sugar broken into large pieces ; put it into an earthen jar, and pour the vinegar over it, then cork it well, and put it into the bain marie over a very moderate fire; as soon as the sugar is dissolved set it aside, and when the syrup is almost cold bottle it. Raspberry Vinegar (another way). Fill a jar with raspberries ; pour vinegar over them till the jar is full. Let it stand nine days, stirring it every day. Strain it oft', and to every pint of juice add three-quarters of a pound of white sugar. Boil it as long as any scum rises, and bottle off for use. Raspberry Vinegar, Superior. Put one pound of picked raspberries into a stone jar or large glass bottle, and pour over them a quart of white-wine vinegar. Cover them closely, and let them infuse for four days. Drain oft' the liquor, and pour it over a pound of fresh raspberries ; let these infuse for four days, and then repeat the process a third time. When the liquor is poirred oft', the fruit should each time be laid in a sieve covered with muslin, and the juice should be allowed to drop from it without pressure for several hours. A considerable quantity may thus be preserved. Put the vinegar into an enamelled pan, or, failing this, into a delicately clean brass pan, and with it a pound of roughly-powdered sugar to each pint of vinegar. Let it boil gently for five minutes, and remove the scum till it ceases t-o rise. Leave the vinegar until the next day, put it into bottles, and cork lightly. At the end of five days cork closely, and seal the HAS ( 713) RAT corks. Store in a dry, cool place. When there is a garden the raspberries may bo gathered and thrown into the vinegar as they ripen, until the requisite quantity has been obtained. Infusion for an additional day or two will not injure the preparation. Time, a fortnight. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Raspberry Water Ice. Press out the juice from some fresh raspberries, and with each pint of juice mix a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and haK a pound of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup with a quarter of a pint of water. Put the preparation in a freezing pot, and freeze in the usual way. To obtain the juice of the raspberries, put a pound of fruit into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and two table-spoonfuls of water. Stir the fruit till it boils, rub it through a sieve, and it will be ready for use. A water-ice made with equal portions of rasj)berries and red currants is superior in flavour to one made with raspberries alone. Raspberry Whisky. Take nine quarts of ripe red raspberries, and pick them nicely; boil them twenty minutes with four pounds and a half of the best loaf sugar, skimming frequently ; strain the liquor thi-ough a fine sieve, and mix it with a gallon of genuine old whisky and a quarter of a pint of strained lemon- juice. Pour it into a clean stone jar upon one ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, two nutmegs sliced, and two ounces of sugarcandy broken small. Stir these ingredients well together, put in the bung, and seal the jar. Let the jar stand six months in a dry, warm cellar, then strain the liquor, and filter it through fine flannel till it is perfectly clear and bright. Bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it for twelve mouths longer that the sweet taste may be lost ; it will then be beautifully rich. Raspberry, Wholesome ness of the. This fruit is subacid and cooling ; it allays heat and thirst, and, in common with other summer fruits, promotes the natural excretions. Raspberry syrup is next to strawberry in dissolving the tartar of the teeth ; and as, like that fruit, it does not undergo the acetous fermentation in the stomach, it is recommended to gouty and rheumatic patients. Both preserved in the form of jam, and combined with vinegar and sugar, forming what is known as raspberry vinegar, the raspberry is in great estimation. " In either of these forms," says Dr. Andrew, " when diluted with water, it makes an agreeable beverage in febrile complaints, and is also an excellent though expensive addition to sea-stores, as an anti-scorbutic." Raspberry Wine. Pick some ripe raspberries, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden spoon. Let them stand for twentyfour hours, and strain the juice through a flannel bag. Boil the juice, and with every gallon put a pound and a half of loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, let the liquor cool a little, and stir briskly into it the whites of three or four eggs. Let all boil gently for a quarter of an hour, and carefully remove the froth as it rises. Let it stand till cool, pour it very gently into a cask, so as not to disturb the setthngs, and add as much yeast as will ferment it. When the fca-mentation begins to decline, tie some flavouring ingredients in a muslin bag, suspend this in the cask for a short time, and taste the liquor frequently, so that the bag may be removed as soon as the wine is pleasantly flavoured. The flavouring articles may either be bruised mace, ginger, almonds, orris-root, or odoriferous flowers, such as cowslip or mignonette. Vlien fermentation, ceases, put a pint of white wine with each gallon of liquor, close the cask, and in three months it will be ready for use. Raspberry Wine (another way). Bruise fine ripe raspberries with the back of a wooden spoon, put them into a stone jar, and pour over them an equal quantity of cold spring water. Leave them until the next day, strain off the liquor, and press the fruit. Dissolve in a small portion of the liquor one pound of loaf sugar for each quart of wine. Stir this into the rest, put the wine into a cask, and stir every day. When fermentation ceases, close the cask. In three months it will be ready for use. Raspberry Wine (another way). Take forty-two quarts of sound ripe red raspberries, gathered in fine weather, pick them, and clear them from the stalks. Put them into a tub, and pour upon them ten gallons of boiling soft water, cover the vessel up close, and let the raspberries stand until the next day. Then take off the S(;um, press the fruit through a fine sieve, and when the liquid has stood to settle three or four hours, di-aw it off clear, and put it into your cask, filter the thick perfectly clear, and add that. Stir in by degrees twenty-five pounds of good moist sugar, and work it with six table- spoonfuls of fresh ale yeast, mixed well with two quarts of the liquor. Put paper and a tile over the bung- hole, keep the cask full, and let it work over. When fermentation has ceased, stop it up for a month, then rack it off into a clean vessel, filter the lees well, and put the wine again into the cask with an ounce of dissolved isinglass and three pints of French brandy. Secure the bung well, and let the wine remain in a cool cellar twelve months; you may then bottle it, and, sealing the corks, keep it until two years old. Ratafia. - - This is the name given to spii-ituous liquor when flavoured with the kernels of various fruits, like peaches, apricots, and cherries. It should be dropped into any preparation with great care, as, though very delicious when sparinglj' used, it is poisonous as well as most unpleasant when moderation is not exercised. Small biscuits flavoured with sweet and bitter almonds are named ratafias. Distilled peach or apricot leaves, when cut in the spring, may be used mstead of ratafia for flavouring puddings. One way of making ratafia is as follows : Take tlie stones from two pounds of morella cherries, and pound them well with one ounce of blanched apricot kernels and a spoonful of brandy. Put them into a large stone jar with a "quart of fine brandy, and cover closely. Let the jar remain for six weeks, and shake it twice a day. BAT (714) BAT Strain the liquor through a sieve with blottingpaper laid in it, and add half a pound of white sugar-candy dissolved in a quarter of a pint of cold water. Taste the ratatia, and if not suf- j ficiently sweet add a little more sugar-candy. Put the preparation into small bottles, cork these closely, and store for use. If apricot kernels cannot easily be obtained, blanched bitter almonds may be used instead. Sufficient for nearly three pints of ratafia. Batafla (another way). Blanch and bruise the kernels of 300 apricots, peaches, and nectarines ; put them into a clean stone jar with a pound of white sugar candy and half a pound of sweet and one ounce of blanched bitter almonds beaten in a stone mortar 's\'ith orange-flower water ; pour on them a gallon of French brandy ; cork the jar well, and seal it ; let it stand in a warm room two months, shaking it daily ; then store it for twelve months ; filter it perfectly clear through two or three thicknesses of muslin, and put into small bottles corked and sealed. Eobinson . Batafia, Angelica {see Angelica, Eatafia). Batafla, Anisette. Bruise two ounces of green aniseed, one ounce of coriander-seed, two pennyweights of cinnamon, and quarter of a di-achm'of mace. Put these ingi-edients into a jar with two quarts of brandy ; add twelve ounces of sugar partially dissolved in a very little water ; let the whole infuse for a month, then filter thi-ough paper, and bottle it. Batafia, Apricot. Patafia of apricots is prepared in two ways namely, either by boiling the apricots in white wine, adding to the liquor an equal quantity of brandy, with sugar, cinnamon, mace, and the kernels of apricots, infusing the whole for eight or ten days, then straining the liquor, and putting it up for use ; or by infusing the apricots, cut in pieces, in brandy for a day or two, passing it through a straining bag, and then putting in the usual ingredients. Batafia Biscuits. Blanch and pound together to a smooth paste three ounces of sweet almonds and two ounces of bitter almonds, and add whilst pounding a dessertspoonful of brandy and the whites of two eggs beaten to a firm froth ; stir in half a pound of loaf sugar powdered and sifted, and beat the inixture till it is a firm smooth paste. Bake one or two little cakes to test the lightness of the paste, and if they are heavy add gradually the whites of one or two additional eggs. Lay the mixture on writing-paper in rounds the size of a halfpenny, and bake these on tins in a moderate oven till they are lightly browned. Take them from the paper as soon as cold. Some cooks add a spoonful of flour to the above preparation. Or, blanch and pound together to a smooth paste two ounces of sweet Jordan almonds and thi-ee-quarters of an ounce of bitter almonds. Add gradually the whites of two eggs beaten to a tii-m froth, half a pound of loaf sugar powdered and sifted, and half a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water: beat the mixture till it is a firm paste. Test the ratafias, beat in addition two whites of eggs if required, and bake as before in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Batafia, Blackberry. Take twenty pounds of blackberries, and mash them with the juice of twenty oranges and ten lemons. Pound in a mortar half a pound of bitter almonds, half an ounce of nutmeg, two pods of vanilla, an ounce of coriander-seeds, and fom- sticks of Jamaica pepper. Put this into the mash-pan with the fruit and a quart of syrup. Let the mass be put into a large well-corked stone bottle, and stand it near the fire for a fortnight. At the end of that time strain off the liquor, and to each quart add one of French brandy. Let it stand another fortnight. Then make it clear by running it as often as necessary through a jelly -bag, and bottle for use. Batafia, Black Currant. Take twelve pounds of black currants, and mash them in a deep earthen pan. Pound in a mortar haK an ounce of cinnamon, three pods of vanilla cut in bits, an ounce of cardamom-seeds, four sticks of Jamaica pepper, a drachm of mace, a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, and six apricot kernels. Add these ingredients to the fruit, together with a quart of syrup. Put the whole into a large stone bottle, and let it stand during a fortnight near the fire. Then strain out all the juice through a linen bag, pressing it well out, and with each quart of the juice mix a quart of the best French brandy. Let it stand another fortnight in the same place. Then run it through a jelly -bag until it is clear, and bottle for use. Batafia, Cacao. Take one poimd of Caracca cacao-nuts, half a pound of West Indian cacao-nuts, both being roasted and bruised, and a gallon of proof spirit. Digest for a fortnight, then filter, and add two pounds and a haK of white sugar and half a drachm of tincture of vanilla, or, instead of this, a shred of vanilla may be infused with the nuts in the spirit. After a month, decant and bottle the ratafia. Batafia Cake. Blanch and pound together to a smooth paste six ounces of sweet ahnonds and two ounces of bitter almonds. Add the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth, and beat in very gradually half a pound of loaf sugar powdered and sifted, half a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, and the yolks of eight eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly. Add two ounces of fine flour, and the remaining whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Butter a mould, half fill it with the mixture, and bake the cake in a slow oven. Let it stand a few minutes, shake it to loosen it, take it out carefully, and set it upon a reversed sieve till cold. Time to bake, about thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Batafia Cheese-cakes. Boil a pint of milk till lukewarm. Sweeten and flavour it with a dessert-spoonful of sugar and two table-spoonfuls of brandy, then stir into it a table-spoonful of rennet. Let it stand in a cool place till it is turned to a curd. Beat it well, draw off the whey, and stir into it threequarters of an ounce of powdered ratafia biscuits, one ounce of dissolved butter, and two RAT (715) RAT well-beaten eggs. Line some patty-pans with good puff paste, pour a spoonful of the mixtui-c into each, and bake the cheese-cakes in a wellheated oven. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1-J-d. each. ? Ratafia, Cherry (a Danish recipe). Bruise two poimds of black cherries, so that all the kernels may be broken ; add a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds or peach kernels, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves, and one pound of white sugar to the cherries, also half a pint of brandy and a quart of old white wine. Let these remain a few days to infuse, stirring frequently; then filter the liqueur and bottle it. For this and several of the following ratafias we are indebted to Amelia von Kochheim's interesting " Handbook of Foreign Cookery." Ratafia, Coffee. "This beautiful liqueur," says Eobinson, writing in 184S, in his "Whole Art of IMaking British Wines," " is made by infusing the following ingredients in a jar : BestTurkey Coffee, roastedandground 1 lb. Best Loaf Sugar . . . . 20 oz. Cinnamon and Cloves, beaten, each . h ? Nutmeg J ? Sweet Almonds, beaten to a paste . 1 ? Bitter do i ? Isinglass, dissolved in a little water . - ? Proof Spirit of Wine . . .1 gall. Cork up the jar immediately the spirit is added, seal, and tie bladder over it ; set the jar in hot water ten hours, then shake well, and set it in the sun for a month. It may then be strained through a fine sieve and filtered until perfectly clear ; put it into small bottles, which cork well and seal, and in a month it will be fit for use, though age will improve it." Ratafia, Coramon. Blanch four ounces of bitter almonds, and chop thom very small. Throw them into a mortar with half a grain of ambergris, tkree ounces of sugar, and half an ounce of grated nutmeg ; then pound all thoroughly together. Put the mixture into a stone jar, pour a quart of good spirit over it, cover closely, and let it remain in a warm place for a fortnight. Filter through a strainer lined with blotting-paper, put the ratafia into small bottles, cork these securely, and store for use. Sufficient for one quart of ratafia. Ratafia Cream. Boil three or four laurel, nectarine, or peach-leaves in a cupful of cream for three or four minutes. Strain this, and mix with it a pint of thick cream, add the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken. Pour it out, let it get cold, and before ser\'ing sprinkle some hundreds and thousands over it. If preferred, milk may be used instead of cream. Or rasp the rind of a lemon and a Seville orange, or, if preferred, two lemons, upon two ounces of sugar. Put this into a bowl, and strain the juice of the fruit upon it. When the sugar is dissolved add a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pint of ratafia or noyeau. and a quarter of a pint of light wine. Whisk the mixture thoroughlv, and serve in Ratafia Cream, Iced. Blanch two ounces of bitter almonds, and pound them to a smooth paste with a tea-spoonful of rosewater, or water, to prevent them oiling. Add gradually a table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, mi.x the paste with a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir over a gentle fire till pleasantly flavoured. Add another jjint of cream, strain the mixture through a jelly -bag, and freeze in the usual way. Time to boil the cream with the almonds, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for a little more than a i int of ice-cream. Ratafia Cream., Moulded. Hasp the rind of a lemon and a Seville orange, or of two lemons, with four or five good-sized lumps of sugar. Put these into a basin, strain the juice upon them, and stir and crush them tiU dissolved. Add a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pint of ratafia, and a quarter of a pint of light wine, or, if preferred, a quarter of a pint of sherry, and the eighth of a pint of brandy, and mix all thoroughly. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in a cupful of milk, stir this into the cream, and whisk well. Cover the inside of an earthenware mould with muslin wrung out of cold water. Arrange upon this some ratiifia biscuits which have been dipped in cream, pour the mixture in carefully, and let it stand in a cold place till set. Turn it out, and serve. Ratafia, Cura90a. Infuse one ounce of the zest or peel of bitter almonds cut as thin as possible, a pound and a half of sugar, and a little pinch of Brazil-wood in two quarts of good brandj'. At the end of two days filter it, and put it into bottles. Ratafia d'Angelique. Take one drachm of angelica seeds, four ounces of angelica stalks, one ounce of blanched bitter almonds bruised, and six quarts of brandy or proof spirit. Digest for ten days, then filter. Add a quart of water and three j)0unds and a half of white sugar. Mix well, and after a fortnight decant the clear poj-tion through a piece of clean flannel. Ratafia, Gooseberry. Take five quarts of the finest sound ripe gooseberries, a drachm of cinnamon, a drachm of mace, six pounds of pounded lump sugar, and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. Place these in two gallons of French brandy. Stop it well, and let it infuse during three months. Then press out the gooseberries, and filter the whole through filtering-paper. Bottle in pint bottles. Ratafia Ice-cream. Beat the yolk of an egg, and stir into it half a pint of cream and half a cupful of new milk. Sweeten it, and put it into a saucepan over a gentle fire with an ounce of ratafias. Stir until it begins to thicken, pour it out, and when cool add the strained juice of half a lemon. Freeze the preparation in the usual way, and when it is set, add a glassful of noyeau, maraschino, or cm-acoa, and another ounce of crushed ratafias. Time, about ten minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for one pint of ice-cream. Ratafia, Iced. Soak an ounce of gelatine in a little water for half an hour. Beat the RAT (716) BAT yolks of three eggs -wiih. half a pint of millc ; add the grated rind of a lemon or of a Seville orange, four ounces of ratafias, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a glassful of brandy. Stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens, rub it through a fine sieve, and mix with it the gelatine dissolved in milk, and two or three ounces of candied fruit cut into thin slices. Add a quarter of a pint of thick cream, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Put it in a damp mould, set it on ice, and when set turn it out carefully. Time to thicken the custard, ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for rather less than a quart. Probable cost, 2s. Ratafia, Marasquin Rose. In a quart of spirits of wine infuse for a month thirty black cherry stones, after taking away the pulp, but without washing them; filter this liquid through paper. Clarify two pounds and a half of fine sugar, pour it on the liquor ; add to it a quart of water and a pint of rum, shake it all well, and when quite clear put it into bottles. This is a most delicious liqueiu*. Ratafia, Noyeau. Put into a large jar six ounces of apricot-kernels cut into small pieces, with three quarts of brandy ; let them infuse for three weeks, shaking or stirring them from time to time. Take out the kernels ; dissolve a pound and three-quarters of sugar in a pint of water ; mix all together, filter, and bottle it. Ratafia,Orange-flo"wer. For each quart of brandy take three ounces of picked orangeflowers and half a pound of fine pounded sugar : put into a jar alternately a layer of sugar and a layer of flowers ; let the last be sugar, covering the flowers well and more thickly than the others ; cover the jar close ; let it stand to infuse for twelve hours, but not longer, in the cellar ; at the end of that time, pom- the brandy over, and filter, then bottle the ratafia. Ratafia Pudding, Baked. Slice four penny sponge cakes, lay them in a buttered dish, pour a glassful of sherry over them, and let them soak for a little while. Spread a large spoonful of good jam upon them, and pour over them half a pint of good custard flavoured with almonds. Let the pudding stand for half an hour, cover the top with ratafia biscuits, and pour another half-pint of custard over these. Bake in a moderate oven. The custard maybe made vnth three-quarters of a pint of milk, the yolks of four and the white of one egg, two ounces of almonds blanched and pounded, and a table- spoonful of sugar. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ratafia Pudding, Baked (another way) . Ci-ush four ounces of ratafias to powder. Mix with them two ounce- " sweet almonds blanched and pounded, a ",J" , ' of cream, the yolks of six and the whites of two eggs, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a glassful of brandy or sherry. Line a dish with pufi: paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. Serve hot or cold. Time to bake, about tkree-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3s. Ratafia Pudding, Boiled. Boil the thin rind of a lemon and an inch of stick cinnamon in three-quarters of a pint of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured. Sweeten it, pour it over a quarter of a pound of grated breadcrumbs, and let it cool. Add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, and, if it is at hand, a table-spoonful of ratafia, or two or three drops of the flavouring, and beat the mixtxire well. Butter a plain mould thickly, lay even rows of ratafias or of sweet almonds blanched and sliced round it, pour the pudding in gently, cover with a round of buttered writing-paper, tie it up, and steam over boiling water. Turn the pudding out gently, and send arrowroot sauce, flavoured with ratafia, to table with it. Time to steam, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ratafia Pudding, Boiled (another way). Butter a jjkiin round mould thickly, and ornament the inside with even rows of dried cherries. Pour a pint of cream or milk over four penny sponge biscuits and eight ounces of crushed ratafias. Beat the mixture well, add the yolks of six eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a glassful of brandy. Lay a round of buttered paper on the top of the mould, tie it up, and boil or steam the pudding. Serve with arrowroot or wine sauce. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, if made with milk, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ratafia Puddings. Blanch and pound to a smooth paste four ounces of sweet almonds and three or four bitter ones. Add a few drops of water to prevent oiling. Mix with the paste a table-spoonful of sugar, two ounces of fresh butter which has been dissolved in a quarter of a pint of hot milk or cream, a tablespoonful of brandy, and two well-beaten eggs. Butter some small cups, half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. "When done enough, turn the puddings out carefully, sift white sugar thickly over them, and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, lOd., if made with milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ratafia, Quince. Grate ripe quinces till you come to the core, but be careful that there are no pips ; let the mass remain for three days in an earthen pan; squeeze it to extract all the juice, measure it, and add to it an equal quantity of brandy ; allow six ounces of sugar to each quart of the mixture, with some cinnamon and cloves to taste ; let it infuse for two months, then filter it, and pour it into bottles. This liqueur when old is excellent. Ratafia, Raspberry. Dissolve first two pounds of sugar in a pound and a quarter of raspberry-juice and a quarter of a pound of cherry- juice, then add four quarts of brandy. Let it stand, and when the liquor is quite clear bottle it. Ratafia, Red. A fortnight before the ratafia is to be made infuse some bruised cloves in brandy, and use this for flavouring. A drachm will be sufficient for a quart. Put a quarter of a pound of small black cherries, sometimes called brandy cherries, into a large BAT (717) BAT bowl with a quarter of a pound of raspberries, a quarter of a pound of strawberries, and a pound and a half of black-heart cherries. Bruise the fruit well, let it stand twcnty-fomhom-s, and chain off the juice. Measure the juice, and with each pint put a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar boiled to a clear syrup with two tablespoonfuls of water and a quart of flavoured brandy. Filter the liqueur through a jelly -bag, put it into small bottles, and store for use. Katafia, Red (another way). Mash together in a tub, or pan, three pounds of black cherries, two of ripe red gooseberries, and one of raspberries. Mix with these twenty-four cherry-kernels previously pounded in a mortar with a 23int of syrup : put all into a jar, stop it close, and keep it for twelve hours in a heat of about ninety degrees, Fahrenheit; then press it through a clean napkin, let it stand twelve hours longer ; and then add to each quart of juice a pint of good brandy ; next day, strain it through a flannel bag till it is quite clear. Ratafia, Red (another way). Take three pounds and a half of ripe red cherries, two pounds of ripe black cherries, two pounds and a half of ripe red gooseberries, the same quantity of red raspberries, and one pound and a half of fine ripe red currants ; place the fruit in a deep earthen pan, and mash it well. Pound in a mortar a drachm of cloves, a drachm of mace, half an ounce of cinnamon, two ounces of coriander-seed, two drachms of fennel-seed, two sticks of Jamaica pepper, a dozen apricotkernels, twenty cherry-kernels, and six bitter almonds. Add these to the mashed fruit, and also two quarts of sjTup. Put the whole into a large stone bottle, well closed, and expose it during a fortnight to the heat of the sun, or place it beside the kitchen fire. Then strain, and squeeze the whole thi-ough linen, and add to each quart of juice a quart of the best French brandy. Let it stand for another fortnight in the sun or beside the fire, then run it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and bottle in pint bottles. Ratafia, Rose, Take a quarter of a pound of roses j icked from all the green, pour a pint of warm water over them, let them stand two days ; strain them through linen, squeeze them to extract all the liquor; take as much brandy as you have decoction of roses, add half a pound of sugar to each quart, flavour it with a little coriander and cinnamon; let it remain fifteen days, then filter and bottle it. Ratafia Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Moisten a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot with a spoonful of cold Avater, and rub it till smooth. Pour over it stirring all the time a quarter of a pint of boiling water. Add a tablespoonful of ratafia liqueur and sugar to taste. Boil a minute or two, and serve. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Ratafia, Strong. Take two ounces of apricot and peach kernels, blanch them, and put them into a quart bottle with half an ounce of cloves and a bit of cinnamon; fill up the bottle with French brandy. Cork the bottle well, seal it, and put it in the sun on fine days ; in two months, add to the preparation three ounces of white sugar- candy dissolved in a pint of cold water. Then strain off, filter through paper, and bottle for use. Ratatouville. This is a popular French method of making a savoury dish out of the remains of cold meat. It may be made satisfactorily from two or three kinds of meat which have been dressed at dift'erent times ; none must be used, however, which is not perfectly sweet. If the cold meat is very lean, procure a little fresh fat meat, such as the thin ends of the ribs of beef. Cut both the dressed and undressed meat into pieces about an inch square, and place them on separate dishes. Melt a slice of good beef dripping in a saucepan, slice two or three onions into this, and when they are lightly browned put in the uncooked meat and brown it. Dredge a little flour over the whole, and stir it until it is without lumps, then pour in gradually as much stock or water as wiU cover the meat. Add a mixture of any suitable vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, and celery, all finely shred, freshly-peeled potatoes halved, quartered, or sliced, or haricot beans which have been already three-parts cooked, green peas, &c., together with a bay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer all gently together until the vegetables are tender, put in the dressed meat, and let the preparation simmer gently until the meat is hot and impregnated with the flavour of the stew, but it must not boil again. Arrange the meat and vegetables on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve. If liked, the gravy can be thickened with curry-powder or paste and a portion of ground rice, instead of with floui-. \Tien this is done, some rice boiled as for curry should be sent to table on a separate dish. Time, about an hour and a half. Ratel-i-COUm. This is a sweetmeat of Turkish origin, which has recently become common in confectioners' shops under various names, but chiefly under that of " Lumps of Delight." It is made of starch and syrup, and is sometimes coloured. It is imported into this country in the form of small cakes, one or two inches square, and about an inch thick, and evidently cut from a mass. These cakes are sprinkled with powdered sugar to keep them from sticking together in the small boxes in which they are packed. Rations, Army and Navy. At home the army ration is three-quarters of a pound of meat and one pound of bread "best seconds " if in barracks ; or three-quarters of pound of meat with a pound and a half of bread if in camp. If a grocery ration is also issued, for every such ration three-halfpence are deducted from the pay of the recipient. In cases where men are not suppHed with rations, an allowance is granted of si; oe a day. Abroad, the ration is one pouna ot bread, or three-quarters of biscuit, and one pound of fresh or salt meat, except at certain stations, where, in consideration of the climate, a different ration is specially provided. During field operations, the bread ration may be increased, though not above a pound and a half of bread, or one pound of biscuit. The commanding officer may, during active operations, direct the issue in addition to the above of wine, spirits, or any other article of subsistence equivalent thereto. The stoppage for this foreign ration is one penny. AVhen the families of soldiers accompany them abroad, they are allowed the following rations : the wife (married under regulation), half a ration ; each legitimate child under seven years of age, a quarter ration ; from seven to fourteen, a third of a ration. The full navy ration is made up of the following articles : daily one pound and a quarter of ship biscuit, or one pound and a half of soft bread, one-eighth of a pint of spirit, two ounces of sugar, one ounce of chocolate, quarter of an ounce of tea, one pound of fresh meat, and half a pound of fresh vegetables, when these are procurable ; otherwise, one pound of salt pork with a third of a pint of spht peas, or one pound of salt beef with nine ounces of flour, three-quarters of an ounce of suet, and one ounce and a half of currants or raisins. On alternate salt beef days, two ounces of preserved potatoes. Weekly quarter of a pint of oatmeal, half an ounce of mustard, quarter of an ounce of pepper, and quarter of a pint of vinegar. Rattlesnake. In some parts of North America the Indians broil rattlesnakes like eels, and eat them. Their flesh is said to be white and delicate. When the rattlesnake is asleep they fix him to the ground, and by inducing him to fasten his fangs in a piece of leather, they pluck out the poison-fangs by pulling away the leather. Tho) then in safety take off the skin, and broil the flesh. Donovan. Ravigote Butter for Sauces, Take two largo table-spoonfuls of mixed tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and cress. Pick and wash them, and throw them into boiling water for two minutes ; press the water from them in a cloth, put them on a plate, and mi.t with them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, half a spoonful of cliilli vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. When these ingi-edients are thoroughly blended, turn the whole into a basin, and put it in a cool place till wanted. If all these herbs cannot be procured, good ravigote butter may be made with tarragon and chervil only. Ravigote Sauce for Hare and Venison. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and throw into it a moderate-sized onion .and carrot chopped small, a tea-spoonful of scraped horseradish, a pinch of powdered thjTne, a bay-leaf, and a little mace. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire till the onion is tender. Pour in a table-spoonful of vinegar and half a pint of stock, add a little brown thickening, and sldm the sauce well. AVhen it is smooth and of the consistency of custard, dissolve a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly in it, rub it through a fine sieve, add pepper and salt if required, and serve in a tureen. Time, a few minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight jDersons. Ravigote Sauce for Meat and Poultry of Various Kinds. Work an ounce of flour smootlily into two ounces of butter. . dd the strained juice of half a lemon. a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Put the paste into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of milk or cream, and stir until it is on the point of boiling. Have ready in a separate saucepan a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a tablespoonful of chilli vinegar, a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, and a table-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Boil this mixture for thi-ee or four minutes, stir it into the boiling sauce, mix thoroughly, and serve. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ravigote Sauce, Green, for Salads, &e. Make a quarter of a pint of good white sauce or melted butter, stir into it two tablespoonf ids of ravigote butter {sec Ravigote Butter) , and when this is well mixed in add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a few drops of anchovy. If the ravigote butter or the herbs necessary for making it are not at hand, take six tablespoonfuls of good white sauce made with cream or milk, add a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar, a tea-spoonful of Reading or Worcester sauce, a tea.-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little salt and pepper. Pick, scald, and mince a table-spoonful of green parsley-leaves, stir them into the sauce, and serve. Ravigote Sauce, Green (another way). {Sec Green Ravigote Sauce). Ravioli, Italian. Make a paste with flour, fresh eggs, and a little salt. Roll it out as thin as thick paper, and sprinkle it with as little flour as possible. Make a forcemeat of fowl, veal, or fish, or take a godiveau ; lay it in little heaps at equal distances on half the paste, and cover -with the other half. With the fingers press the paste down between the little piles of forcemeat to make it adhere, then cut the whole into squares. Put these side by side in a dish, and boil them in bouillon for five minutes. Serve with grated cheese in a plate. Ravioli, Italian (another way). Make some nicelj'-flavoured forcemeat as follows : Take two oimccs of the flesh of roast chicken or game weighed after it has been freed from skin and sinew. Mince it finely, and mix with it a table-spoonful of borage which has been scalded, pounded, and passed tlirough a sieve ; failing this, use a table-spoonful of spinach greening. Add an ounce of pounded ham, four cleaned and pounded anchovies, a shallot, three hard and two raw yolks of eggs, a table-sjooonf ul of grated Parmesan, and a little pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Roll out half a pound of nouilles paste as thin as possible, cut it into rounds two inches in diameter with a fluted cutter, moisten the edges with water, and lay a small ball of the forcemeat upon each round. Fold the pastry over the forcemeat, and pinch it tightly together. Let the ravioli dry for a short time. Butter a saucepan, lay them in it, pour a little boiling stock over them, and let them simmer until the pastry is done enough. Drain them, lay them on a dish, sprinkle a little grated Parmesan over, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon them. Put them in a brisk oven for a quarter of an hour, pour a little good BAV ( 719 ) RED gravy round them, and serve very hot. To make the nouilles paste put half a pound of flour on a pastry-board, make a hole in the centre, break two eggs into it, add half an ounce of butter and a pinch of salt, and mix all together to a smooth, firm paste; it is then ready for use. Time to simmer the ravioli, iive minutes. Ravioli Soup. Prepare and poach the ravioli as in the last recipe. Drain them, and put them into a soup tureen. Pour over them two quarts of good strong veal or game stock, add a glassfiil of madeira, and serve very hot. Send a plateful of grated Parmesan to table with the soup. Time, five minutes to poach the ravioli. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Ray or Maids. This fish is of the same genus as the skate or thornback. It may be boiled or fried. It should be hung for at least a day before it is dressed, and the wings should be cut into strips, and kept in salt and water for two or three days before they are used. The dressed fish is very good eaten cold with salad siiuce. It is at its best from September to February. Ray Soup. Boil a pound of ray in a quart of fish stock. When it is tender and broken to pieces, strain the liquor through a sieve. Put it back into the saucepan, and let it boil again. Drop into it a spoonful of vermicelli, and -hen this is tender draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute, stir into the soup a quarter of a pint of cream which has been beaten up vdih. the yolk of an e g, and let it simmer a few minutes longer, but on no account let it boil after the egg is added. Heat a French roll in the oven, soak it in a little of the soup until it is moist throughout, put it into the tureen, pour the soup over it, and serve. The ray is a fish which is very suitable for making soup, as its bones are delicate, and soon dissolve in boiling. Time, two hours. Probable cost, uncertain, ray being seldom bought ; it is, however, very inexpensive. Sufficient for five or six persons. Razor-bill. This bird, also known under the name of the Black-billed Auk, is very common on the coasts of this country and on all the northern shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Its fiesh is much used in some districts for food, and the eggs, which, are about three inches long, are esteemed a delicacy. The razor-bill frequents lofty precipices, from which its eggs are taken by persons who arc let down by ropes for the purpose. Reading Sauce. Take two large earthen jars. Put into one an ounce and a half of bruised shallots and two pints and a half of walnut pickle, set this in a gentle oven, and let it boil until the liquor is reduced to two pints. Put into the other jar a quart of water, threequarters of a pint of Indian soy, a pounded anchovy, half an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of ginger, and one ounce of mustard-seed, all bruised ; add also half an ounce of cayenne. Set this jar in the oven, and let it boil for an hour. Pour the contents of one jar into the other, stir the mixture well together, and let it boil for half an hour. Cover closely, and let it stand in a cool place until the next day. Put into the sauce a quarter of an ounce of di-ied bayleaves, and leave it for a week. Strain through a jelly -bag, put the liquor into small bottles, cork these tightly, and store for use. Time, nine days. Sufficient for two quarts of sauce. Recruits' Pudding. Pound two ounces of sweet almonds to a smooth paste, and add as much new milk as will make a thick batter. Shred finely a pound of suet, and mix with it a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Add the almond milk, a pinch of salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, the well-whisked yolks of five eggs, the white of one egg, and a tablespoonful of brandy. Tie the mixture in a fioured cloth, and boil it, or, if preferred, put the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake it imtil done enough. Time, two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Red Beet. The roots of the red beet are boiled and sliced, and eaten cold, either alone or in salads; they are also much used as a pickle, and form a most beautiful garnish. Sometimes, after being dried in thin slices inan oven they are employed in confectioner}-, and dried and ground they are occasionally turned to account as "a supplement to coffee." Red Beet, Varieties of. These, according to Loudon, are numerous, but the prmcipal are : large-rooted ; long-rooted ; dwarf, one of the best ; tui-nip-rooted, an early variety; small red; Castelnaudari, much esteemed m France, and said to have the flavour of a nut ; and green-topped, much grown in Scotland. Redbreast. This beautiful bird, which enlivens the dreariness of winter with its song, when almost all other birds are silent, and whose familiar manners and reliance on the generosity of man have been the cause of Ins protection throughout Britain from the destroying hand of the epicure, is extensively consumed in" France, and considered excellent. i)o?o?'ff?. Red Cabbage. In form the red or purple cabbage resembles the white ; it has, however, BED (720) BED a brownish-red or purple colour. It is cliiefly employed for pickling, and the dwarf red variety certainly makes one of the most beautiful pickles that can be presented at table. Both the dwarf and large kinds are sometimes shredded down in winter in salads, like beetroot. In Germany, sauer kraut is jirepared from all or any of the varieties. Bed Champagne, British. Take forty quarts of ripe green gooseberries, crush them in a tub, pour on them ten gallons of soft water that has been well boiled and become cold, add three pounds of sliced beet-roots that have been boiled twenty minutes without breaking their skins, stir well ten minutes, and leave them to steep four days covered up, stirring weU three times daily. Strain the liquor, and filter it through a flannel bag into the cask ; add thirty pounds of best loaf sugar in small lumps, two ounces of best ginger bruised, the thin rinds of four lemons, and an ounce of best isinglass dissolved in a quart of the liquor. Leave the bung out till the fermentation has ceased, then add a quart of brandy, put in the bung, and secure it with paper and sand. Keep it in a cool cellar twelve months, then put it into champagne bottles, wii-e the corks, and seal them. It will be in high perfection in six months more, and is an exceedingly fine wine. Robinson. Bed Clary Wine. Pick and stone fortyfive pounds of good Malaga raisins, cut them small, and pour on them ten gallons of pure soft water ; cover the vessel up close, stirring well for twelve days, strain the liquor from the fruit, and put it into a cask upon a peck of the tops of clary when in flower, leaving the cask open imtil fermentation has ceased. Boil two quarts of the wine with two pounds of purple beet-root peeled and sliced for twenty minutes ; strain this, and when cold add to it thi-ee pints of French brandy and an ounce of isinglass dissolved ; then add this to the wine, and stop it up for twelve months. It may now be bottled, and if kept six months will be very good. Longer keeping will much improve this excellent wine. Bed Clary Wine (another way). Boil twenty-five pounds of good loaf sugar with ten gallons of river or rain water half an hour, beat up the whites of ten eggs to a froth, add them, continue the boiling half an hour longer, and skim continually until the liquor is perfectly clear, adding three pounds of red beet-root peeled and cut in thick slices. When the liquor is a beautiful bright red colour, strain it through a finesieve iato a vessel upon nearly a peck of clarytops in flower, and two ounces of best ginger sliced or bruised well ; and when cool enough work it with nearly a pint of yeast three days, stirring it weU twice daily, and covering it close. Strain the liquor into the cask, which must be full, that it may work over ; and when the fermentation has entirely subsided, put in an ounce of bitter almonds blanched, a quart of brandy, and an ounce of isinglass or gum arabic dissolved in a quart of the wine. Then stop it up safely, put wet sand over the bung, and keep it fifteen months at least, after which bottle it ; and in six montfhs more it wUl be very rich, clear, and strong. Robinson. Bed Cordial Water. Take three or four thick slices of purple beet-root boiled, one ounce each of carraway and coriander-seed bruised, one ounce of cloves and cinnamon, three-quarters of an ounce each of Jamaica pepper and nutmeg bruised, half-an-ounce of thin rind of lemon, twelve ounces of sugarcandy beaten and rolled, two quarts of proof spirit of wine, and three pints of water. Put these ingredients into a stone jar, and fasten the cork securely ; tie bladder over it, and set the jar in hot water for six hours. Shake it well daily, and keep it for a month in a warm room. Then strain and filter it perfectly bright ; fill small bottles, cork and seal them. Bed Currant. This fruit is acceptable at the dessert, being of an agreeable acid taste. It is much used for jellies, jams, and wines. Forsyth says it is the most agreeable of all the small fruits, either for the table or the kitchen ; and that it continues longer in succession than any other. According to Withering, the juice gives an agreeable acid to punch ; and Professor Martyn says it was a common beverage in Paris in 1763. Its medicinal qualities are similar to those of other sub-acid fruits, allaying thirst, lessening an increased secretion of the bile, and correcting a putrid and scorbutic state of the fluids. The red currant is a native of the northern parts of Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England. The berries of this shrub in its wild state are red; cultivation has produced white and pale-red berrijed varieties. Professor Martjni observes that " the cuiTant does not seem to have been known to the ancient Greeks and Pomans, as the Southern nations of Europe have not even an appropriate name to it at this day. The old French name Groaeilles d' outre mer jiroclaims their having been strangers imported. Our English name of currant is evidently from the similitude of the fruit to that of the Uva corinthica, the small grape of Zante, or the conunon grocers' corinths or currants." Loudon. Bed Currant Solid. Dissolve half a pound of red-currant jelly in a pint of cream, and add a little sugar ii" necessary. Stir in three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass which has been dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water, whisk the mixture for a few minutes, pour it into a damped mould of earthenware ? not metal and set it in a cool place. When wanted, turn it out carefully upon a glass dish, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Bed Deer Venison. In suitable weather red deer venison should hang three weeks before it is used, and should in all respects be cooked like ordinary venison (which see) . The flesh of the red deer is highly prized by some epicures, though others consider it strong and coarse in flavour. This is, of course, a matter of taste, but whatever may be the opinion of sportsmen, ordinary housekeepers will be wise to choose BED (721 ) RED well-fed buck venison rather than that of the nid deer. and firm flesh. They should bo oaten as fresh as they can be procured, and are seldom boiled, BED DEER. Red-eye or Rudd. This is a common fish in lakes, slow rivers, fens, ?&:c.,in England, and also in many parts of Europe. It bears a marked resemblance to the roach, but is shorter and deeper. It is better eating than the roach. The name "rudd" refers to the colour of the fish, which is very rich. Red Herrings or Bloaters, To Pry. SijHt the herrings open, and cut off their heads. Melt a little butter or dripping in a frjong-pan, put m the fish, and shake the pan over a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish, with a mall piece of butter laid on each bloater. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost. Id. or Ud. each. SuflBcient, one or two for each person. Red Liquor to Colour Cordials, &e. Take half a pound of boiled beet-root sliced, half an ounce of Jamaica pepper in jjowder, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, three ounces of sugar-candy broken small, one pint of pure water, and one pint of proof spirit of wine. Put these ingredients into a stone jar, tie closely over with wet bladder, set it in a pan of hot water for six or seven hours, then let it stand for a week ; strain, and filter. Bottle it, and seal the corks ; it will keep many months. Red Mullet, It is said that this fish was so highly esteemed by the ancient Romans, that on one occasion ?234 7s. 6d. was given for three. This high price was not paid on account of their edible value, but to gratify the artistic passion of those who loved to watch the beautiful changing colom-s of the dying fish {see Red SluUet, Roman Cookery of). Red muUet is a fish quite diiferent from and much superior to the grey mullet, with which it is sometimes confounded. It is dressed without being gutted, and on this account is sometimes spoken of as the sea-woodcock. It may be had all the year round, but it is in perfection only when the roe is forming that is, during the heat of summer. The best mullet are those which are very red and short, with bright clear eyes 48 BED MULLET. though they are frequently broiled, baked, and fried. In cleaning them it will be necessary only to scrape them lightly, and to pull out the gills, when as much of the inside as ought to be removed will come away with them. Red Mullet {see also Mullet, Red). Red Mullet, Baked. Scrape a goodsizod miillet lightly, pull out the gills, and with them the thread-like gut. Be careful not to injure the liver. Rub the mullet with lemonjuice, and put it into a shallow dish with a chopped mushroom, a shallot chopped small, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, two or three small sKces of carrot, a little pepper and salt, and a wine-glassful of light wine. Put the dish in a gentle oven, and bake the mullet until done enough, basting at intervals with butter or salad-oil. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce from the pan poured over the fish. It will require baking from haK an hour to threequarters. Or, prepare, wash, and dry three mullets. Put them in a shallow dish, and sprinkle over them a moderate-sized onion chopped small, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a little salad-oil or oiled butter over them, and let them bake gently until done enough. Put into a saucepan a tea-spoonful of salad-oil and a dessert-spoonful of chojiped onion. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the onions are tender, dredge a little tiour over them, add the liquor from the fish, a little chopped parsley, and a glassfid of wine. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is so thick that it coats the simoon, and add, if liked, a little cream, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve the fish on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over it. Time to bake, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of mullet, from 6d. to 3s. each. Red Mullet, Baked (another way). Butter a metal pie-dish, lay the fish in it, pour over them about a wine-glassful of flour and water or good broth, lay pieces of butter on them, and baste all the time they are cooking. The gravy which comes from them is red ; the RED ( 722 ) RED colour may be heightened by a tea-spoonful of essence of shrimps or anchovy, but should not be discoloui'ed by ketchup, Reading, or other black-brown sauce. Serve the fish in the dish in which they were baked. Red Mullet en Papillote. Take out the gills, wash, wipe the fish carefully, and flour it. Take a piece of letter-paper, cut it in the shape of a heart, and oil it. Season with pepper and salt, lay the mullet on one side, and season this also. Fold the paper over, and turn over the edges securely. Broil the fish on a gentle fire until it is hghtly browned on both sides without the paper being at all burnt, and serve it in the paper on a hot dish. It will be excellent without sauce, but if this is required, melted butter, anchovy sauce, Dutch sauce, or Italian sauce may be sent to table with it. Sometimes a little good sauce made as for baked mullet {see the preceding recipe) is spread over the fish inside the paper. Mullet en papillote may be baked as well as broiled. A little sauce may then be made with the liquor which comes from them, mixed with a glassful of wine, a dessert-spoonful of anchovy, and a tea-spoonful of soy, thickened with a little flour, and stirred over the fire tiU smooth. Time to broil, twenty to thirty minutes. Red Mullet, Filleted and Fried. Take half a dozen red mullet, scrape them lightly, cut off their heads, cut them open, take out the inside, and carefully preserve the Hver. Di\ade the fish in halves, and lift the flesh from the bones, so that each mullet will make two fillets. Dry and flour these, and dip them either into egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, or into a little frying-batter. Fry in hot fat, and when they are Ughtly browned on both sides serve on a hot dish, and send a sauce prepared as follows to table with them : Beat the boiled livers of the fish with the back of a wooden spoon till they are smooth. Drop them into a saucepan containing the third of a pint of thin melted butter made with water in which the livers have been boiled for five or six minutes. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is thick, season with pepper and salt, and just before serving add to it a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and half a glassful of claret, if liked. Time to ivj, ten minutes or more. Red Mullet, Fried. Melt two oimces of butter in a frying-pan. Put in one goodsized or two small mullet, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, and season with pepper and salt. Let them fry over a gentle fire until they are done enough, turning them over once or twice that they may be equally cooked. Serve on a hot dish, either plain or with melted butter, Dutch sauce, or anchovy sauce. Time to fry, twenty to thirty minutes. Red Mullet, Marinaded and Broiled. Prepare the mullet in the usual way. Rub each one with a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice and a tea-spoonful of salad-oil, and sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over it. Lay all the fish in a dish, sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of chopped parsley and two shallots finely minced, and let them lie for three hours. Fold in buttered paper, and broil according to the directions given for Red Mullet en Papillote. Time to broil, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Red Mullet, Roman Cookery of. The Romans served the mullet with a seasoning of pepper, rue, onions, dates, and mustard, to which they added the flesh of the sea-hog reduced to a pulp, and oil. When the liver alone was to be eaten, it was cooked, and then seasoned with pepper, salt, or a little garum ; some oil was added, and hare's or fowl's liver, and then oil was poured over the whole. " The unbridled and cruel luxury of ancient Rome," says Soyer, " required that this fish should be cooked by a slow fire, on the table and under a glass, that the guests might gloat on its suif erings before they satiated their appetites vnih. its flesh. It is true this barbarous gratification was very expensive, and it was necessary to be very rich to indulge in it, consequently it was decidedly very fashionable, quite natural, and in very best taste." Red Mullet, Sauce for. Red mullet fried or boiled are very good without sauce. When this is required, however, plain ihelted butter, Dutch sauce, anchovy sauce, or Italian sauce is the most suitable, or a sauce may be prepared as follows : Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a paste, and with them two ounces of clarified butter, a salt-spoonful of unmixed mustard, a dessert-spoonful of dried flour, a tea-spoonful of vinegar or lemon- juice, and a little pepper and salt. Mix with this paste a third of a pint of cold water, put the mixture into a saucepan, and stir over the fire tiU it boils. Tkrow in a dessert-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, let the sauce boil once more, and served A sauce for baked midlet may be made according to the directions given in the recipe [sec Red MuUet, Baked). Red Mullet, StufTed. Scrape and wash the fish, and wipe them quickly. Make a little forcemeat with hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, butter, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Fill the mullet with this stufiing, w-rap the fish in buttered paper, and broil over a gentle fire. When done enough, remove the paper, and serve the fish on a hot dish with a little melted maitre d'hotel butter under them, or failing this, with maitre d'hotel sauce in a tureen. Time to broil, ten to fifteen minutes. Red Pears, to Preserve, Weigh a dozen pears, pare them, and cut them into halves. Take their weight in sugar, and boil it to a clear sjTup with half a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Add half a dozen cloves, an inch of stick cinnamon, a few drops of cochineal,_and a glassful of port ; put in the pears, and simmer them very gently till they are clear and brightly coloured. Take them out, and put them into glasses. Boil up the syrup, strain it, pour it over the fruit, and cover the glasses in the usual way. Store in a cool dry place. Time, three or four hours. Red Rice Pudding. Take a pint of the expressed juice of red currants or raspberries, a glassful of wiae, and a little sugar. Let the RED ( 723 ) REF liquor Loil, then add gradually about three ounces of ground rice mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and stir the preparation until it thickens and leaves the sides of the saucepan. Pour it into a damp mould, and put it aside until cold. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve with cream or custard. If preferred, groats may be used instead of ground rice. Time to boil the preparation, about ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Red Wine Custard (a Danish recipe). Mix together in a bowl half a pint of good thick cream, half a pound of white sugar, the juice of three and the grated peel of one lemon, with half a pint of red wine. Let it all remain covered for twelve houi-s; then beat it well with a whisk till it froths ; let it stand a quarter of an hour longer that the froth may be firm, take it off with a sUce, and put it into cups or a deep dish. To be eaten with Biscuit a. la cuillere. Kochheim. Reform Chips. Keform chips are used for garnishing purposes. They have a good appearance when placed in the centre of a dish of cutlets. Take equal quantities of dressed ingredients of different colours, such as pink ham, hard-boiled white of egg, black truffles, red carrots, or green pickles. Cut these into thin shi-eds about an inch long, make thoui quite hot, toss them lightly to mix them, and serve. Refreshing Beverage. Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put into a jug with two ounces of sugar candy over which poiir one quart of boiling water ; stir it occasionally until cold. This drink is both good for invalids and for persons in health, especially in warm weather. Refreshing Drink for the Sick (Invalid Cookery). Take two ounces of hartshorn shavings and boil them in a quart of water ; when the hartshorn shavings are quite dissolved, set the liquid aside to settle. Before it is cold strain it tkrough a tamis upon half a lemon sliced thin, and sugar to taste. Cover, and let it remain till cold, then mix with it a good glassful of Moselle or French wine. Refreshing Drinks. Very refreshing drinks may be made from fresh fruit when it is in season, and they will be found to be much superior to those which are made from frmt .sjTup. Pick a quart of fruit, and mash it well in a basin. Pour over it two quarts of cold spi-ing water. Wash some paper in water till it is reduced to a pulp. Put this into the basin with the fruit, pour the whole into a jellj'-bag, and strain off the juice. Add sugar boiled to a syrup and a little lemon-juice, if liked. Serve the fruit-water in glasses. Cherries, red and white currants, raspberries, and strawberries, are specially suited for these drinks. The cherries should have boiling water poured over them, and should be allowed to soak for an hour or two. When these fruits are not in season, pour boiling water over three or foirr baked apples, while they are still hot. Strain oft' the liquor when it is cold, and sweeten vith honey or moist sugar. It wiU prove a very welcome beverage. In winter- time slice a lemon and two oranges into a jug. Pour over these a quart of boiling water, add a table-spoonful of crushed sugar-candy, and strain the liquor when cold. A considerable variety of refreshing di-inks will bo found under "the heading Summer Beverages. Refrigerants. What are called freezing mixtures are such as produce cold by and during the liquefaction of their solid ingredients, and the consequent absorption of heat on which their solid fomi depended. Such mixtures reduce the temperature of substances immersed in them on the principle of the transfer of heat, which always takes place from hotter to colder bodies when exposed to each other. " The process used by confectioners for producing cold is by the mixture of ice and common salt, which, both liquefying, absorb so much heat, or, in other words, produce as much cold as wUl reduce the thermometer from the usual temperature to the zero of Fahrenheit's scale, or even rather below it. If, however, freshlyfaUen snow be used instead of ice, then the fluidity is more suddenly produced, and the cold is more intense. " In freezing-mixtures, the substances combined have such an affinity for each other that when intimately blended they combine chemically, and in so doing liquefj The operation should be so arranged that no heat be furnished either by the vessel in which the liquefaction takes place, or from anj external source. Under such circimistances the heat absorbed during the liauefaction must be furnished by the materials of the freezing-mixture or by the body which it is intended artificially to cool or to freeze. " Many recipes are to be met with for freezing-mixtures. One or two examples will suffice here. With equal weights of fresh snow (or pounded ice) and common salt, a temperature of 4 degrees Fahr. can be maintained for many hoirrs. A mixture of three-parts crystallised chloride of calcium and two parts of snow will produce a depression of temperature sufficient to freeze mercury. If the vessel in which the materials are to be mixed and the chloride be cooled to 32 degrees a temperature of 50 degrees can be produced. The most powerful fi-eezing-mixture is formed by dissolving solid carbonic acid or solid nitrous oxide in sulphuric ether. For more moderate temperatui-es, certain salts, easily procurable, may be used. Thus, four ounces of nitre and four ounces of sal-ammoniac, both in fine powder, mixed with eight ounces of water, will reduce the thermometer from 50 degrees to 10 degrees. Equal parts of water, of powdered crystallised nitrate of ammonia, and of powdered crystallised carbonate of soda wiU lower the temperature from 50 degi'ees to 7 degrees." Even in hot climates ice may be produced xmder favourable circumstances by evaporation. Xear Calcutta this is managed on the open plains by exposing a thin stratum of water to the atmosphere during the fine clear nights of December, January, and Februarj\ The pans are composed of porous earthenware, and water is poiu-ed in to the depth of about an inch and. ( 724 ) a half. A large number of these vessels arc arranged in an excavation in the ground, between thirty and forty feet square, and with a depth of two feet, the bottom being covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches with the stalks of Indian corn or with sugar canes. These pans are visited at sunrise, and the ice is separated from the water, and packed as tight as possible in a deep cavity or pit, well screened from the heat. Refrigeration, Food Preserved by, " Refrigeration as applied to animal substances, with a view to their preservation, is an important subject, though, strictly speaking, a substance temporarily kept from decomposition by being surrounded by a temperature sufficiently low for the purpose, can hardly be called 'preserved food,' as by this term is generally meant an article preserved in a receptacle, or otherwise, which is not subject to decomposition through atmospheric influences. The first patent for the preservation of food by means of refrigeration was taken out in 1845; since that time many expedients have been adopted by the use of ice, and by artificial methods of lowering the temperature by evaporation, Avith a view to the importation of fresh meat from Australia, America, and elsewhere into this country. The object of all the contrivances is the same, namely, to secure a sufficiently low degree of temperature for the preservation of the meat during the voyage, and to produce it at such a cost as would repay the importers." An eminent dietetic authority who took a deep interest in the preservation of meat remarks : "The application of cold is, in my opinion, the most fitting mode of solving the problem, and it should be effected either by inducing the inhabitants of countries where ice is alDundant in the cold season, to grow animals for our markets, or by storing large quantities of ice in an economical manner at the ports of other meat-producing countries. We need not despair of seeing the time when the whole carcase of an animal will be imported in a state fit to be cut up in our shops for immediate sale, and when the exporters from Australia will supply themselves -with ice for this purpose from the southern hemisphere, or when the pastures of the North American continent will become our chief, as they may be our nearest, sources of supply. Canada offers unbounded facilities for this purpose, by reason of its great ice-fields, its pastures, and agricultural population, as well as its nearness to this country ; and should the present high price of meat continue it will induce commercial men to organise a system, both of feeding animals and of exporting the meat in ice, which may be very profitable to the Canadians." The preservation of food by keeping it at a low temperature is sufficiently well known. In such countries as Eussia, where the climate during winter is one long frost, the preservative action of cold is largely taken advantage of. Cattle, poultry, &e., are killed when the frost begins, allowed to become frozen through, and in this condition brought to market and sold at the large winter fairs. Fish are dealt with in the same fashion, and are kept for months quite fresh and wholesome. Provisions thus preserved only require the precaution of being* gradually thawed before use by immersion in cold water. Refrigerating Machines. The manufactui-e of ice by machinery is one of the most interesting applications of science, and this has now become a practical trade. In 1851, M. Rezet, of Rouen, volatilised ether in a clos3 vessel by exhausting the air from its surface.. After the air, the ether-vapour itself was exhausted by a pump, then condensed by the aid of cold water, and forced back into the same vessel, by which a continual absorption of caloric from the surroimding bodies was effected, and a continual refrigeration obtained as long as the circulation of ether was kept up by working the piunp. Harrison's ice-making machine and its improved form by Mr. Siebe is a particular application of the exhausting air-pump. The working of the process is as follows : A quantity of sulphuric ether contained in a close vessel surrounded by a current of salt water, is made to pass rapidly into a state of vapour by the action of a large air-pump driven by steampower, the necessary amount of heat requisite to effect this change in the ether is abstracted from the suiTOunding salt-water casing, which is thus cooled to a temperature below the freezing point of water, and is then made to cii'culate through a box containing the water to be frozen in tin moulds arranged on a tra veiling frame, which moves in a direction contrary to the refrigerating current. The ethervapour removed at every stroke of the pump ispassed over to a condenser, where it reassumea the 'liquid form and is returned to the evaporating vessel. The machine invented by M. Carre appears to be much more effective. Messrs. Carre and Co.'s ice-making machines are of two kinds, one being continuous and the other intermittent in action ; but the principle involved is the same in both cases, viz., the i:)roduction of cold by the volatilisation of a gas which is easily liquefiable, and at the same time ia a high degree soluble in water. TJre. Dr. Meidinger, of Baden, has constructed a little apparatus for freezing cream or cooling wine, and which has been very favourably received, as being simple, elegant, and automatic. The freezing mixture consists of finely-pounded ice and a saturated solution of table salt. Since, however, the melting ice necessarily dilutes this solution, a reservoir containing dry salt is introduced in such a manner as to constantly supply the deficiency of salt and keep the solution unaltered upon the point of saturation. For this purpose Dr. iVIeidinger advises the following arrangement : In an external cylindrical vessel, a bad conductor of heat and very much like a water-cooler, an annular perforated. vessel is suspended to contain the dry salt abovementioned. A slightly conical metallic cup receives the material to be acted upon, and fits. into the circular opening left for the purpose. The mush of pounded ice and brine is poured into the outer vessel, up to a certain mark, just enough to make it rise to the very rim as soon as the cup containing the cream, &:c., is slowly REP ( 725 ) HEG down. This rising ice mixture enters the reservoir of dry salt, and as long as ice is melting salt will be dissolved and the cooling action will thus be kept up uninterrupted. No tui-ning is required; the freezing compound, however, should be stirred occasionally, as the portion ia immediate contact with the freezing mixtirre will congeal iirst. The temperature attained is about 6" 7¦ below zero, Fahr. Refrigerator, Food. The ordinary food refrigerator is usually in the form of a chest which has a compartment for ice and one or more compartments for the food. Most of the older forms of refrigerators did not completely separate the ice from the food compartments, and many of them were merely chests with double sides, separated by some non-conducting substance, as charcoal, ia which the ice as well as the articles to be kept cool were placed on shelves indiscriminately. In either case the moistui'e from the evaporating ice filled the whole apparatus, and caused the contents to begin decaying soon after their removal, and, indeed, prevented their being preserved long whila they were within it. In the presence of moistiu-e, particularly when it contains the effluvia from various meats and articles of food, decomposition will g+ on even at a temperatme considerably below the freezing point, and this cannot be secured by the presence of ice. In a dry atmosphere meats may even be preserved without ice. If a current of air is made to circulate in a chamber surrounding an ice-box, much of the moisture of the air will be condensed upon the box, and there will also be a constant collection of impurities contained in the air. To make such a refrigerator efficient, the air must be first dried by passing it through a vessel containing chloride of calcium or some substance which will rapidly absorb moisture. In either case the caloric absorbed by the ice to cool a continuous current causes it to melt rapidly. An efficient method is to place a tight ice-box within a tight meat-box, or surround the latter with an ice-chamber, the meats to be first cooled in the open air. Regent's Pudding. Grate two ounces of the white meat of a cocoa-nut. Mix with this two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of flour, three ounces of finely-shred beef suet, a table-spoonful of picked and washed currants, a table-spoonful of chopped raisins, and a little sugar. jSIix these ingredients thoroughly, and beat them up with two eggs and half a quarter of a pint of milk. Pour the mixture into a buttered basin, put over it a piece of buttered writing-paper, and tie it in a cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly imtil done enough. Turn it out carefully, and before sending to table, pour over it a little custard-sauce pleasantly flavoured with vaniUa. Time to boil, about three hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. Regent's Punch. Take the very thin rinds of two lemons, two china oranges, and one bitter one. Pour over them half a pound of white sugar-candy which has been boiled to a thin syrup with water and allowed to cool. Let the rinds infuse for an hour. Pom- over them a pint of cold strong green tea, and add tho strained juice of the fruit, a glass of rum, r, glass of brandy, a glass of arrack, a glass of pine-apple syrup, two bottles of champag-ne, and one of seltzer water. Strain the punch through lawn till it is quite clear, bottle immediately, and put it into ice for an hour or two tiU wanted. Serve in a bowl or jug. If preferred, instead of using pine-apple syrup, a fresh pine-apple may be sliced into the punch. Regent's Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Add a table-spoonful of rum, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a slight flavouring of essence of vanilla. When thoroughly mixed, serve. Probable cost, if made with milk, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Regent's Soup. Take the bones, trimmings, and remains of cold game. Break them into small pieces, put them into a stewpan, and pour over them two quarts of stock made from meat-bones. Add a large carrot, a large onion, a small turnip, and thi-ee or four heads of celery, aU cut up small. Let the soup boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Strain, and remove the fat. Wash four ounces of pearl barley, and boil it in a separate saucepan until it is done enough. Drain, and put aside onehalf. Pound the other half with the yolks of three eggs boiled hard, rub the mixture through a fine sieve, moisten with a quarter of a pint of cream, and add it gradually to the soup. Stir the whole over the fire until it is very hot without boiling, add the barley that was put aside, and serve immediately. Time, three hom's. Probable cost, exclusive of the price of the game, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Regent's Store Sauce. Infuse six shallots, fom- cloves, and an ounce of cayenne in a bottle with a quart of -inegar for ten days, and shake the bottle every day. Strain the liquor, and mix thoroughly with it a quarter of a pint of soy, a quarter of a pint of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy. Put the sauce into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use. Regimen. " Diet," says Dr. Eeece, " consists in that course of eating and drinking which every man employs for the support of life ; and varies therefore with every individual, in a certain degree according to temperament, age, predisposition, &c. In a mediciil view, it is proper to consider the course of diet which is best suited to each period, without regard to anything extraneous, and in so doing I shall begin with that of youth. "The diet of children and young people should consist greatly of dilutents, in order to facilitate the progress of youth. Hence broths and a large proportion of vegetables are the most suitable noui-ishment. Milk also is a proper part of diet, and it should be used in every form during this stage of life. In point of drink, water is the best, and should be almost the only BEG ( 726) EEL beverage. Seasoning of all kinds should be avoided, and nothing should be taken that can, by stimulating the system, induce a too early maturity before the constitution is ripened for it by years. " With complete adolescence the quantity of food necessary for the period of grovi th should be abridged ; but from the active scenes of life in which the body is then engaged, the food should be of a more stimulating nature, and a proper proportion of animal food interposed. The proportion, however, must be regulated by circumstances ; thus, those who pursue a sedentary and studious mode of life should be more sparing in the use of animal food and stimulant dxink ; for by excess of nourishment to the body the intellects are found proportionally weakened. Those of a iirm and vigorous habit possess a strong disposition to inflammatory diseases. Excesses, therefore, should be jxirticularly avoided loj them, especially in the case of fermented di-ink. \ATien the constitution is delicate and irritable, a diet moderately stimulating is the most suitable, with a very sparing use of fermented liquors. The sanguine should confine their diet chiefly to vegetable food, and their di-ink to water \vithout any impregnation. The phlegmatic habit admits a greater latitude in the use of a stimulating diet than any other, and both seasoning and stimulating di-ink will prove less hm'tful to such a constitution ; the chief point is to guard against corpulency. When a i-y habit prevails, young meat, with fruits and fresh vegetables, forms the best regimen ; and in point of drink, good wine, diluted with water, is preferable. " With respect to drink, at all periods of life temperance is necessary; strong liquors are, indeed, best suited to cold climates, and here they are generally used to excess. In warm climates, though their temporary use may be called for at intervals, the practice should not be indulged. " The diet of age, or after fifty-five, should retiu'n somewhat to the earlj' periods of life. The proportion of solid meat should be lessened, and the diet reconmiended for youth adopted ; thus broth and liquid food should mostl} be used, and all nourishment taken of an easy digestion, with a moderate use of seasoning. The appetite is more languid, and the machine requires to be stimulated. Well-fermented liquors, especially wine, are also proper, for the system must be invigorated and supported, unless the subject be of a full habit, or disposed to apoplexy." If an attention to diet be necessary in health, it is certainly still more so under disease. The following useful tables of diet are given by the author from whom we have just quoted in his "Medical Guide:" Low OR Fevek Diet. Panada, thin gTuel, milk with barley-water, aiTowroot, jelly made with water, plain bread pudding, salep, tapioca, weak chicken or veal broth. Brmk : Barleywater, acidulated with lemon or orange- juice, decoction of apples, tamarind water (if the bowels be not disordered), balm, mint, or orange-flower tea. Medium or Convalescent Diet. Eice, semolina or bread pudding, blancmange, thin clarified calf 's-foot jelly, flounder or sole, fowl, veal, rabbit, or lamb simply dressed. Brink : Fresh small beer, weak porter, diluted port, or madeira, or claret. Generous or Full Diet. Breakfast : Cocoa, chocolate, or tea, with bread and butter. Dinner : Gravy, soup, or fish, with rabbit, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or game, and mealy potatoes mashed, or Jerusalem artichokes; light pudding. Brinh : Cider, perry, or porter, with a glass or two of port, sheny, or madeira, or three glasses of claret, hock, moselle, &c. Supper : Mutton broth, gruel, or a little meat and bread, with porter or ale. Reindeer. Dr. Eichardson says that when the reindeer is in good condition it is equal, if not superior, in flavour to the finest venison. Sir John Eoss declares that the meat of the reindeer killed in August has several inches thick of fat on the haunches. It is most tasteless and insipid when in poor condition. The contents of the stomach of the reindeer are considered a great delicacy by the inhabitants of the Arctic regions. Reindeer Tongue, to Boil. Soak the tongue in cold water fur three houi-s. Put it in an aiiy situation till diy, ishen soak it again, and repeat this process three times. " Tien it is to be dressed scrape it well, put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it, bring it slowly to the boil, and skim it well. Draw BEINDEEB TONGUE. the saucepan to the side, and simmer the tongue until it is tender. Serve on a neatly-folded table-napkin, and garnish the dish with parsley. Time to simmer, three hours. Sufficient for a small breakfast or luncheon dish. Relishes, or Hors-d'oeuvres. This is the name given to small dishes which are handed round after the soup and fish, and are intended to serve as relishes or incentives to the appetite. They consist of anchovies, olives, sardines, oysters, pickled herrings, radishes, oiled salads, shell-fish, and dishes of a like description. Or, if hot, of pasties of all kinds, rissoles, croquettes, sweetbreads, &c. They are generally served on small oval dishes. Relishing Sauce (for broiled bones, fowls, meat, fish, &c.). Put into a stewpan a tablespoonful of chopped onions Avith one of chilli vinegar, one of common vinegar, three of water, two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's Sauce, and one of anchovies ; add to it a pint of melted butter, let it simmer until it adheres to the back of the spoon ; add half a tea-spoonful of sugar ; it is then ready for use. Sot er. REM (727) RETT Remoulade French Salad Dressing. This sauce is very much like an ordinary English salad-dressing-, and is used in the same way. It is also an excellent accompaniment to chops or cold meats of various kinds. To make it, boil three eggs till hard. Thi-ow them into cold, water, strip off the shell and the white of the eggs, and i)oimd the yolks in a mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of mustard and a little salt and cayenne. When these ingredients are thoroughly blended, and the paste is quite smooth, add, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and beat the sauce well between every addition. When it is quite thick, add the yolk of a raw egg, and afterwards, very gradually, one tablespoonful of plain or tarragon vinegar. The flavour of this sauce may be varied at pleasure by the addition of a tea-spoonful of Harvey's Sauce, two or thi-ee pounded shallots, a very small piece of garlic ; or chilli, cucumber, or shallot inegar may be substituted for tarragon vinegar. The proportion of oil and vinegar used maj' be varied according to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the eggs. Remotdade (another way). Take the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, about a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, rubbed up with three or four table-spoonfuls of oil ; mix these ingredients well, and when they are thoroughly incorporated add two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little pepper, and other flavouring materials according to taste. Remoulade is much employed in making the salad known as mayonnaise. Remoulade, Green. Take a handful of chervil, and half the quantity of chives, pimpernel, and tarragon. Throw them into boiling water for a minute, and afterwards squeeze them in a cloth till dry. Poimd them in a mortar, and with them a table-spoonful of made mustard, and a little salt and cayenne or white pepper. Beat this mixture well with the yolk of a raw egg, and add, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil and one table-spoonful of vinegar. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, and if it is not sufficiently coloured add a few drops of parsley or spinach-juice. If preferred, a shallot, a sprig of parsley, four young onions, and four capers may be pounded and mixed with the oil and vinegar instead of the herbs mentioned above. Remoulade, Indian. Pound the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and season the paste with a little salt and a dessert-spoonful of currypaste or powder. Add very gradually, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfiils, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and beat the sauce between every addition. When it is quite smooth add one table-spoonful of \'inegar, or more if liked. Remoulade is prepared in this way in the West Indies. RemoTilade of Cucumbers (an excellent pickle). Divide the cucumbers into quarters, take oft' the rind, and remove the seeds. Cut the sections into pieces about an inch and a half long, put them into a large earthen pan, and sprinkle an ounce of salt over each pound of cucumbers. Let them soak for four hours, drain on a sieve until all the moisture has run away from them, then chy them in the sun for one hour. Make as much remoulade as will be required to bind the pieces of cucumber together in the following proportions : Take a handful each of tarragon, burnet, chives, and chervil. Throw them into boiling water for a minvite, and afterwards squeeze them well in a cloth to free them from moisture. Put them into a mortar with the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, four filleted anchovies, a table-spoonful of capers, and a table-spoonful of unmixed mustard. Pound these ingredients until they foi-m a smooth paste and are thoroughly blended, then beat them up with the yolks of three raw eggs. Add very gradually, first by drops and then by tea-spoonfuls, half a pint of best olive oil, and afterwards about three table-spoonfuls of either tarragon or chilli vinegar, beating the sauce well between every addition. Rub it through a fine sieve, stir the cucumbers into it, and put the pickle into small bottles. Cover the mouths of the bottles with bladder, and store in a Yerj cool, airy place. Time to prepare, six hours. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each, when in full season. Rennet. Rennet is the name given to the prepared inner membrane of a calf's, pig's, hare's, fowl's, or turkey's stomach, which is used for turning milk. It may frequently be bought ready dried of the butcher, and then may be kept a long time, if hung in a cool place, and covered to preserve it from dust. Wlien wanted for use, a little piece about two inches square should be soaked in a quarter of a pint of hot water for four hours, and the liquor thus obtained should be stirred into lukewarm milk. Rennet varies so much in strength that it is not easy to say how much will be required. Ordinarily, a table-spoonful of the liquor in which the di'ied rennet has been soaked will turn two quarts of milk. For people living in towns the easiest way of procuring rennet is to buy a bottle of the liquor, which is sold by almost all chemists ready for use. Rennet, however, may be prepared at home, as follows : Take the stomachs of two or more freshlykilled calves. Cleanse them thoroughly from all imiDurities, and rub them inside and out with salt. Pack them closely in a stone jar, strew salt between and over them, and cover them up. A month or more before they are to be used let them drain a few hours, and dry them by stretching them on sticks. Some farmers prepare the rennet as follows : Empty the stomach of a freshly-killed calf, and carefully preserve the coagvdated milk it contains. Wash it carefully, and put the milk into it again with some salt. Tie the openings of the stomach with string to prevent the contents escaping, and place it in an earthenware jar with half a pint of brandy mixed with six ounces of water. Cover the jar closely, place it in a cool situation, and let it remain for one month. At the end of that time filter the liquor through imsized paper, and preserve it in smaU wellstoppered bottles. Half a tea-spoonful of this fluid will coagulate a pint of milk. Rennet {see Curd). REN (728) BES Rennet (other ways) . For the preparation of rennet there are many recipes ; the following will be found one of the best: Take a calf's stomach-bag or maw, wash it clean, salt it thoroughly inside and out, and let it lie for two or three days. Hang it up to drain for another two or three days, then re-salt it, and put it into a jar covered with paper, pricked with pinholes. It may be used in a few days, but keeping improves it. When prepared for use, a handful of sweetbriar leaves, of dog-rose leaves, and of bramble-leaves, together with three or four handfuls of salt, are boiled in a gallon of water for a quarter of an hour, and when quite cold the salted maw is added, together with a lemon stuck round with a quarter of an ounce of cloves. There must be enough salt to admit of some remaining always at the bottom undisturbed, and the steep must be scummed as often as is necessary. " In Essex they practise another plan, which is to take the fourth or last ventricle of a calf, commonly called the bag, and opening it, they take out the curd, picking it well of hairs, which are mixed plentifully with it ; then they wash it and put it into the bag again, with a good quantity of salt, and keep it in a well-glazed earthen vessel till they use it, as follows : If they first make cheese in the beginning of the spring, they boil salt and water together till the water is saturated with salt, and will dissolve no more, and steep the bag, having been first prepared as before, in it ; but when they have made cheese (by rennet previously prepared) they steep it altogether in whey well salted by boiling salt in it, and sonretimes, to give it a high flavour, they boil spices with it. The aromatics are matters of fanc} , and may either be used or omitted ; some only prepare a quart of rennet from one stomach, and others a gallon, but the stronger the rennet the less will be requu'cd to the milk." Rennet, Gallino. Gallino rennet is that ?which is made from the rough coating of the gizzards of fowls or turkeys, and u dk coagulated with it is more delicate than it would be if common rennet were used. To prepare it, carefully preserve the skin of the gizzards when about to dress poultry. Cleanse it thoroughly, and rub it well with salt. Stretch it out, and let it dry. About the same quantity of skin must be soaked as is needed for ordinaiy rennet, and it should be laid into water the night before it is wanted for use. Rennet, Gallino {see Gallino Rennet). Rennet, Liquid. Take twelve ounces of fresh rennet, cut small, and three ounces of coromon salt ; knead them together, and leave the mixture at rest in a cool place for five or six weeks ; then add eighteen ounces of water and two ounces of good proof spu'it or rum. Digest for twenty-four hours ; filter the liquid, and colour it with a little burnt sugar. Two or three tea-spoonfuls will curdle a quart of jnilk. Rennet, Substitute for. It sometimes happens that no rennet sufficiently good for curdling milk can be obtained, hence various plants have been advantageously employed for this purpose. The principal of these are the flowers of the yellow ladies' bedstraw used in England, and the eardown in Spain. A strong infusion is made of the down of the latter vegetable in the evening, and on the succeeding morning half a jjint is poured upon fourteen gallons of new milk, which is thus effectually coagulated, and in consequence produces a delicious cheese. Rennet Whey. To prepare rennet whey, Ijlace a quart of milk in a basin sui-rounded with boiling water, till the milk is of a blood heat, or a little warmer, and then mix with it a tea-spoonful of rerniet ; remove it from the warm water, and the milk will soon be completely coagulated ; then brake down the curd, and pass the whey through a strainer, which will leave the curd behind. This whey is always rendered somewhat whitish by a very smaU and much-divided portion of the caseous part, but as a sick diet drink this does no injury. The whey, however, if it is wished, may be clarified. Put in a basin the white of an egg, a wine-glassful of the whey, and four or five grains of tartaric acid in powder ; whisk these well together with a bunch of peeled twigs or an egg-whisk, and add the remainder of the whey ; place the mixtiu'c over the fire till it begins to boil. The tartaric acid completes the coagulation of the white part of the milk, which remains ; the white of the egg, as it becomes hot, coagulates, and envelops the caseous part. When the whey is clear, pour it off ; some filter it through blotting-paper, but this is unnecessary, as it is easy keeping out that part which is united with the albumen of the egg. Andrew. Rennett. " This is the common name, not only in English, but, with slight modifications, in French, German, and other languages, of a class of ai ple, including many of the most beautiful and pleasant varieties. They are of a very regular and nearly globose shape ; their skin has generally a rusty tinge, and often a kind of unctuousness to the touch ; their flesh is finely granular, and besides being sweet and agreeably acid, they have a peculiar aromatic flavom-. They do not keep well." Restorative Broths. Take one pound of scrag of mutton. Break the bone with a chopper, and put it into a saucepan with three pints of water. Add a little salt, a small onion, a smaU turnip, a stick of celery, and a tablespoonful of pearl barley. Let the liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer for two hours. Skim carefully, strain, and the broth will be readj' for use. The meat may be served with parsley and butter or caper sauce. Sufficient for one quart of broth. Probable cost, 6d. per pint. Or split a calf's foot, and put it into a sauccj an with two pounds of fresh knuckle of ?cal broken up. Add a large onion, half a small parsnip, a leek, a little salt, and three quarts of cold water. Bring the broth to the boil, skim it, then simmer it gently for four hours. A quarter of an hour before it is taken up skim it once more, and throw into it a handful of chervil, ten large sori'cl-leaves, and a cabbage lettuce finely shred. Strain the broth, and it is Plate 4 FWallerlmpHationC rJen Q gy SADDLE OF M U TTO N (G AR N I S HE D .) 2, Roast Leg of Mutton 3. Roast Quarter of Lamb 4, Roast Sirloin of Beef. (Garnished.) EES ( 729) BHO ready for use. Many invalids prefer to take this broth cold in the form of a jelly. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for nearly two quarts of broth. Or, take half a pound of lean beef, and half a pound of lean mutton or veal. Cut the meat into smaU pieces, put these into a jar with a closelyfitting lid, pour a quarter of a pint of cold water over them, and place in a moderatelyheated oven for half an hour. Take the meat out, pour over it a pint of water, and put it in the oven again for an hour and a half. Strain it tlirough musHn, carefully remove everj'- particle of fat, and add salt and pepper to taste. These should be put in sparingly, as an invalid's tastes are often peculiar. Suf"ficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint. Probable cost, 9d. per pint. Time, two hours. Or, cut up a partridge into small pieces with a pound of the roll of the bladebone of beef. Fry these in a little butter till they are lightly and equally browned, then lift them out, and put them into a dish. Cut two ounces of undressed ham into dice. Mix with it the red part of a carrot finely scraped, and five or si.x sticks of celerj' cut up smaU. Stir these in a saucepan with a little butter for three or four minutes, add the fried meat, a little salt, a pinch of powdered thyme, and three or four peppercorns, and pour over all three pints of cold spring water. Bring the liquor slowly to the boil, remove the scum as it rises, and throw in a spoonful of cold water now and agaia to assist it in rising. Let it simmer very gently for an hour and a half, pour it out, and strain for use. Time, two hours. Probable cost, varj'ing th the price of the partridge. Sufficient for a little more than a quart of broth. Or, take a chicken and cut it up into small joints. Put it into a saucepan with two pounds of knuckle of veal broken up into small pieces, an onion stuck -wdth three cloves, six peppercorns, and one pint of cold water. Boil the liquor quickly until it begins to thicken, and be very careful that it does not bum. Pour over this three quarts of cold water, and add two scraped carrots, and five or six sticks of celery, or half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed. Let the broth boil, remove the scum, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer for two hours. Strain through a sieve, and the broth will be ready for use. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Sufiicient for a little more than two quarts. Many physicians are of opinion that Liebig's extract of meat dissolved in a little boiling water forms by itself a most excellent and restorative broth. A small quantity is also a valuable addition to broth made from fresh meat. Restorative Meat Jelly. Take three or four pounds of the knuckle of veal, the same weight of fresh-killed gravj'beef, and one calf's foot ; cut the meat from "the bones, and chop them in pieces ; lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, and put the meat on the top of them ; then add as much cold water as will rise two or three inches above the meat ; let the whole simmer very gently for four hours, taking great care to re iove every particle of scum as 49 it rises in the first boiling. Strain through a fine hair sieve, and the next morning the whole of the fat can be taken off. Revalenta Arabica. Under this name a preparation has long been sold as an empirical diet for invalids, unconmion restorative properties being attributed to it. It is really nothing but a preparation of the common lentil. Its nutritive value is about on a par with that of good pea-meal, the constituents of 100 parts of each being as follows : Lentil Meal or Revalenta. Water 12-70 Nitrogenous matter . . .24-57 Starch 59-43 Fatty matter 1-01 Inorganic matter . . . .2-29 100-00 Pea Meal. "Water 12-60 Nitrogenous matter . . . 25-30 Starch 58-38 ' Fatty matter 1-20 Inorganic matter . . . . 2-52 100-00 Revolution Cake (sometimes called La- ? fayette Cake). Take a Savoy or Madeira cake which has been baked in a plain square mould, and cut it into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Spread some jam over these, and place five or six sUces together, one on the top of the other. Whisk the whites of two eggs thoroughly, add half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice or orange-flower water. Whisk the mixture until quite smooth, spread it evenly over the cake with the back of a spoon, and mark the shape of the pieces in which it is afterwards to be cut. Place the cake in a very cool oven to dry the icing. Two or three drops of cochineal , wiU give it a rose tint. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient, one cake for three or four persons. Rhenish. Cream. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass and four ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and let the liquor stand until cold. Add the grated rind of half a Seville orange, and one lemon, and the juice of both, or, if preferred, the rind of two and the juice of three lemons. Beat the yolks of four fresh eggs, stir these into the preparation, and boil gently, stirring all the time untU it is on the point of boiling ; pour it into a damp mould, and let it stand in a cool place till set. The flavour of this cream is often varied by the addition of two ounces of sweet almonds and eight bitter ones, which have been blanched and pounded, then mixed with a cupful of cold water, and allowed to soak for an hour. When this addition is made it wiU be desirable to add the yolks of two more eggs to the cream. Time to prepare the almonds, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for a quart mould. Rhododendron, Yellow-flowered. The Rhododendron Chrysanthemum, or yeUowflowered rhododendron, a native of Siberia, RHO (730) RHU infused in hot water, like tea, is used among the Siherians as an enUvening beverage. In large quantities it produces intoxication, sometimes of so outrageous a kind as to amount to actual delirium. A century ago it was used by the natives as a cure for rheumatism, and subsequent trials elsewhere have proved that it is not without advantage. Donovan. Rhombo, or Rhombus. The rhombo claimed the attention of the discriminating fish eaters of Rome by the delicacy of its flesh, and few fish would have been preferred to it had it not been feared that it rendered digestion difficult. Some intrepid stomachs, however, greeted this dish without much repugnance when presented to them, fried, and sprinkled with pepper, in the midst of a seasoning in which pepper, cinnamon, coriander, benzoin, wild marjoram, and rue, heightened by a httle vinegar, were mixed with dates, honey, cooked wine and oil. This boiUng sauce was poured over the rhombo, but not before it had been enriched with garum, which we had almost forgotten that inevitable brine which the ancient cooking genius placed ever "where, and whoso prodigious renown ought to have it from oblivion. Rhubarb. Rhubarb comes into the spring of the year, just as apples are going out, and before fresh fruit comes in. It is therefore a most useful production, and it is appetising as well as wholesome, and is excellent for purifying the blood. The parts of the plant used are the footstalks, and when these are very young they require only to be ?wiped with a damp cloth, and afterwards cut into suitable lengths before being cooked. When the stalks are fully grown and thick, tho skin sheuld be peeled off. Early forced rhubarb, or champagne rhubarb, as it is called, is especially prized for its beautiful colour. When rhubarb is grown in the garden this variety may be easily cultivated by placing an empty sugar cask over the plant at the. beginning of winter. As rhubarb possesses the quality of imbibing the flavour of anything with which it is cooked, and imparting its own flavour veiy slightly, it is most useful for mixing with other and more richly-flavoured fruits in making pies and puddings. Rhubarb and Bread Pudding. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and cover the bottom with a layer of bread-crumbs haK an inch thick. Place upon this a layer of rhubarb washed and cut into one-inch lengths, and sprinkle some moist sugar over the fruit. Fill the dish with alternate layers of fruit and bread, and be careful that the sides of the dish are walled with bread-crumbs ; let bread form the topmost layer. Lay three or four little pieces of butter here and there on the top of the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven. When time is a consideration the bread may be freed from crust, and laid in the pie-dish in thin sUces without being crumbled. Time, half an hour to one hour, according to size. AVhen the rhubarb is soft the pudding is done. Probable cost of rhubarb, 5d. to 8d. per bundle. Rhubarb and Lemon Jam {see Lemon and Rhubarb Jam). Rhubarb and Orange Jam. With a pint of rhubarb skinned, cut small, and shaken down, put three oranges, and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar. Peel the oranges, and cut half the rind into thin strips, as if it were to be made into marmalade. Pare the white pith from the oranges, and cut them into thin slices, carefully remo\ang the pips. Put the cut-up oranges, the rhubarb, and the requisite quantity of sugar into a preserving-pan, and boil the jam over a moderate fire until a little wiU jelly when laid on a plate. Remove the scum as it rises, and stir the fruit to keep it from burning. Put the j am into j ars, and when it is cold cover in the usual way. Time, three-quarters to one hour from the time the jam boils. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. Rhubarb, Blanching of. The advantage derived by blanching the stalks of rhubarb for culinary purposes are considerable. " They are twofold, namely, the desirable qualities of improved appearance and flavour, and a saving in the quantity of sugar necessary to render it agreeable to the palate, since the leaf-stalks, when blanched, are much less harsh than those grown under the full influence of light, in an open situation." Rhubarb may either be blanched by earthing up the roots early in spring, or by using earthen pots or covers, as in blanching seakale. Rhubarb, Compote of . Champagne or forced rhubarb is much the best for this dish, so far as appearance is concerned. Wipe or wash, but do not peel the rhubarb, and cut it into three-inch lengths. For a pound of fmit boil a quarter of a j)int of 'ater with six ounces of loaf sugar for ten minutes, put in the rhubarb, and lot it simmer very gently until it is tender without being in the least broken. Lift the pieces out carefully as they become done enough, and lay these in a glass dish. Boil the s Tup for a minute or two, and pour it out to cool. Colour with two or three di'ops pf cochineal, and pour the syrup over the fruit. This dish is an excellent accompaniment to rice moulds or blancmawgp. and, owing to its bright BHU (731) EHU colour, adds greatly to the appearance of the table. When more convenient, the rhubarb may be baked instead of boiled, but equal care should be taken that the rhubarb does not fall to pieces. Time to simmer, ten minutes or more. Probable cost of rhubarb, 5d. to 8d. per bundle. Sufficient, one bundle for three moderate-sized dishes. Rhubarb, Compote of (another way). Cut a iDOund of rhubarb into pieces half an inch long, and place these in a stewpan with six ounces of powdered sugar and a quarter of a i)int of water. Shake the saucei: an over a brisk fire until the fruit is tender, lift it out carefully, and pile in the centre of a glass dish. Dissolve in the syrup a tea-spoonful of isinglass or gelatine, colour wth two or three drops of cochineal, and when it is cold pour it round the fruit. Time to simmer the fruit, ten minutes or more. Probable cost of rhubarb, 5d. to 8d. per bundle. Rhubarb, Compote of (another way). The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's lioyal Albert) is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water ; set it over a sharp fire, occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when c uite tender pour it into a basin imtil cold, when it is ready for serving ; should the syrup be too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it pyramidically upon the dish. Soyer. Rhubarb, Compote of (another way). Boil in a clean preserving-pan five or six ounces of good sugar with a quarter of a pint of spring water. Cut into inch lengths one pound of fresh rhubarb stalks, and simmer them gently in the sjTup, skinnning if necessary. Take rhubarb of the same growth that it may all be sufficiently tender at the same time. Time, ten minutes to boil sj'rup, about ten minutes to simmer rhubarb. Rhubarb Flummery. Soak a quarter of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in three table-spoonfuls of cold water for an hour. Cut up one pound and a half of rhubarb into small pieces, and simmer this in as much cold water as will barely cover it, until it is quite soft. Drain oif the juice, put it into a saucepan with the soaked isinglass, and stir until the isinglass is dissolved. Rub the fruit through a sieve, mix the pulp with the isinglass, &c., and add four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Sweeten according to taste. Stir the flummery over the fire for a few minutes, but do not allow it to boil, pour it into a damped basin, and let it stand in a cool place till set. Turn it out on a glass dish, and send it to table with custard poured round it. Time to boil the rhubarb, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. Probable cost, lOd., if made with gelatine. Rhubarb Fool. Wash and, if necessarv, peel the rhubarb, and cut it up into small pieces. Put as much as is to be used into a jar which has a closely-fitting lid, with as much sugar as will be required to sweeten it. Set this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and keep it boiling until the fruit is quite soft. Rub it through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and mix with the pulp as much cream, milk, or tliin cold custard as will make it of the consistency of gruel. Taste it, and if not sufficiently sweet, add a little more sugar. Serve cold in a glass dish. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. per pint if made with milk. Time, varying with the age of the frmt. Rhubarb Fritters. Pare five or six rhubarb stalks, and cut them small. Beat a pint of flour to a smooth paste with half a pint of water, add a pinch of salt, a pint of milk, and two well-beaten eggs, then stir the rhubarb into the batter. Put a large table-spoonful of lard or sweet dripping into a thickbottomed frying-pan. Melt this, and when it is boiling hot, put in the batter by spoonfuls, and keep each spoonful separate. Flatten the tops of the fritters a little, and when one side is brightly browned, turn them over upon the other. AVhen they are done enough drain them, and serve on a hot dish with a little piece of butter, a grate of nutmeg, and a teaspooirful of sugar over each. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rhubarb Jam. Rhubarb jam is most wholesome and useful, but it will not keep fora great length of time like other preserved fruits. Peel the rhubarb, and cut it up into short lengths. Weigh it, and with each pound of fruit put one pound of sugar, the rind of haK a small, lemon, chopped small, and a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped. Bring the fruit slowly to the boil, stir constantly, and skim carefully, then boil it rather quickly until it will set when a little is put upon a plate. Put it into jars, and when it is cold, tie these down in the usual way. If liked, the almonds may be omitted, and the juice of the lemon may be added to the fruit. Time to boil young rhubarb, about three-quarters of an hour. Old rhubarb, one hour to one hour and a half, counting from the time the jam simmers equally all over. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. Rhubarb Jam (another way). Take as, much rhul)arb as is required, and cut it into small pieces; then take a pound of sugar to every pound of rhubarb, and let all steep together in a covered jar for three days. Take also as much ginger as will fill a wine-glass, fill up the glass with whiskey, and let it also stand for three days. Add the whiskey flavoured with ginger to the rhubarb, taking care to keep back the sticks of ginger. Boil for forty minutes, put into jars, and cover in the usual way. A wineglassful of ginger and whiskey is usually thought enough to flavour seven pounds of rhubarb, but more or less may be used according to taste. This is a Scotch recipe, and said to be an excellent one. It is to be observed that the latter part of the season is the best time of the year for preserving rhubarb ; it docs not then contain so much water. Rhubarb Jam to Imitate Preserved. Ginger. Take some young but BHU ( 732) BHU thick rhubarb, pare it, cut it into two-inch lengths, and weigh it. Place it on dishes in a single layer, and over each pound sprinkle the grated rind of one lemon and one pound of powdered loaf sugar. Let it remain twentyfour hours. The next day boil half a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of water for ten minutes, pour into this the syrup from the rhubarb, boil it twenty minutes, and add as much grated ginger as will make it pleasantly hot. Put" in the pieces of rhubarb, and let them simmer gently until they are tender, without being broken, then hft them out with a spoon one by one, put them in jars, boil the syrup five minutes longer, and pour it over them. When cold, tie the jars down in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Time, two days. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. Bhubarb MotQd. Cut into small lengths as much young rhubarb as will fill a quart measure. Boil this with a pound of loaf sugar, eight bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, and the strained juice and grated rind of half a lemon, and stir it over a brisk fire till it is thick and smooth. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in two table-spoonfuls of boiling water, stir this into the fruit, and pour the whole into a mould which has been soaked in cold water for a time. Put it into a cool place, or upon ice, and when it is quite firm turn it out, and serve with Devonshire or other cream round it. Time to boil the rhubarb, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is., if made with gelatine. Bhubarb Pie. Peel the rhubarb, and if it is very large divide it into two or three strips, and then into short lengths. Fill the dish as full as it will hold, sprinkle some sugar over it, add a small pinch of salt, and, if liked, mix with the fruit a flavouring of grated lemonpeel and ground ginger, or a Uttle nutmeg, grated. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, moisten these with water, and lay a cover of pastry over all. Press the edges closely together, and ornament them, then make a small slit in the centre of the cover with the point of a knife. Glaze the top, or strew sugar over it, and bake the pie in a wellheated oven until the pastry loosens from the dish. Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake, half an hour to one hour, according to size. Bhubarb Pudding. Butter a basin which will hold a pint and a half, and line it with good suet crust rolled out to the thickness of half an inch. Fill it with rhubarb which has been stewed for a quarter of an hour with a little moist sugar and the rind of half a lemon. Cover the pudding with pastry, rolled out to the same thickness as the sides, pinch the edges securely, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil in plenty of water until done enough. The water must not cease boiling. Turn the pudding out carefully, and cut a small opening in the top, that the steam may escape. Send sweetened melted butter or a jug of cream and sifted sugar to table vnth. it. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bhubarb Sherbet (a wholesome and refreshing beverage). Take as much young rhubarb, which has been cut into short lengths, as will measure half a pint. Boil this in a quart of water for twenty minutes, sti-ain the liquor through muslin, and sweeten with five or six large lumps of sugar, which have been rubbed upon the rind of a smaU lemon until the flavour has been extracted. Stir the sherbet till the sugar is dissolved, and serve when quite cold. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. Sufficient for a quart of sherbet. Bhubarb Soup. Take half a dozen sticks of fine young rhubarb, peel them, and cut them into short lengths. Throw these into a quart of good veal or beef stock, and add a moderate-sized onion, two thin sUces of bread, and a Little salt and pepper. Let the liquor boil, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer the soup gently iintil the fruit is quite tender. Strain it, and serve with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the soup, about half an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bhubarb Soup, Sweet. Boil half a pint of cut rhubarb in a quart of water, with the rind of half a lemon and two or three thin slices of bread, till the liquor is pleasantly flavoured. Strain and sweeten it, add a glassful of light wine and a little cream, and serve. If hked, the yolks of one or two eggs may be used instead of the cream, but the soup must not boil after the eggs are added. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bhubarb Tart. Cut the large stalks from the leaves, strip oflf the skin, and divide the fruit into pieces half an inch long. With a pint of these pieces put half a tea- cupful of water, half a tea-cupful of brown sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Stew the fruit gently until it is quite soft, then beat it with a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Line some small dishes or tartlet-pans with pastry, and spread on this a layer of the stewed fruit a little more than a quarter of an inch deep. Roll out some pastry, brush it over with yolk of egg beaten up with a spoonful of milk, and cut it into strips a quarter of an inch wide. Lay these across the tart. Lay a band of pastry round the edge of the dish, trim it evenly, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven. When the pastry loosens from the dish it is done enough. Time to bake, half an hour or more. Bhubarb Turnovers. Make a little good pastry, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in rounds from four to six inches in diameter, and lay upon one-half of the pastry a httle yoimg rhubarb cut small or a little stewed rhubarb. Add sugar to taste, and sprinkle a little powdered ginger over the fruit. Turn the pastry over, pinch the edges closely together, and brush the turnovers with white of egg. Sprinkle a little powdered white sugar over them, and bake on tins in a brisk oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Bhubarb Vol-au-vent. In the spring of the year this makes a very inviting and BHU ( 733) RIB ?wholesome dish, and its qualities purify the blood, which the winter's food lias rendered {jross. Cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb into lengths of one inch, put it into a stewpan holding about two quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a table-spoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring it ; do not let it get brown, or it will spoil and lose its flavour; it will take but a few minutes to do. When tender, put it into a basin to cool ; a few minutes before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold. Soyer. Bhubarb Wine. Take fifty pounds of rhubarb, wipe it with a wet cloth, and bruise it well. The easiest way of doing this is to lay it on a clean table, and crush it with a flat-iron. Put it into a tub or bowl, and pour over it ten gallons of cold water ; let it remain nine days, stirring two or three times a day. Strain off the liquor, and to each gallon put three pounds of loaf sugar, the juice of a lemon, and half of the rind. Put it in the cask with two ounces of isinglass, and leave it unstopped for a month, then bung it up, and let it stand in a very cool but not damp place for twelve months, when it will be ready for bottling. A little brandy may be added to ttie wine, if liked, but it is quite unnecessary. The middle of May is the best time for making rhubarb wine, as the fruit is then full of sap. Time, six weeks to prepare. Probable cost, varying with the price of the rhubarb. A quantity of rhubarb at this time of the year ought to be got for very little. Sufiicient for about eighteen gallons of wine. Bhubarb Wine (another way). Cut five pounds of rhubarb into short lengths, bruise it, and put it into a bowl with a gallon of cold water. Let it stand for five days, and stir it twice a daj'. Strain off the liquor, and add to it four pounds of loaf sugar. When this is dissolved add the rind of a lemon and half an ounce of isinglass. Let the liquor remain for four or five days, until the fermentation begins to subside. Skim the crust from the surface, draw off the wine, put it into a cask, and in a fortnight bung it down. It will be ready for bottling in six months. If the wine ferment after it is put into the cask, it shoidd be drawn off into another one. The addition of a little currant- juice will improve the colour. Bhubarb Wine (another way). To forty pounds of fresh-cut juicy rhubarbstalks, sliced but not peeled, put ten gallons of cold soft water, and let them steep two days, closely covered up. Take off the scum, press the juice out of the fruit, strain the liquor through a sieve, and put it to twenty-five pounds of good loaf sugar roughly broken. Stir it well twenty minutes, and when the sugar is dissolved fill your cask, put on the bung lightly, or cover with a tile, and when it has ceased fermenting, add to it three pints of white French brandy, and half a pound of white sugar-candy. Then stop it up well with paper pasted over the bung and sand upon that ; leave the vent-peg out a day or two only. Let it stand two or three months, then rack it off. Filter the lees perfectly clear, and return all into the cask again, adding the thin yellow rinds of four Seville oranges, and six ounces of the best barley-sugar, dissolved with an ounce of isinglass in two quarts of the wine. Then stop up the cask again as before, and let it remain a year in a cool cellar ; you may then bottle it, using the best corks, and fastening them with wire; seal with green wax, and when it has been kept nine months longer it will be excellent. Robmson. Bhubarb Wine (another way). Take three ounces of sliced rhubarb, one ounce of cardamon seeds, bruised, half an ounce of bruised ginger, and a pint and a half of spirit. Digest for three days, and then add of any white wine, two gallons. Biband Blancmange. Make as much blancmange as is required to fill the moulds. Divide this into as many portions as it is intended to have different colours. IMany persons wiU prefer two colours, red and white only, others will wish to have also green, chocolate, and yellow. Put a little of the blancmange an inch deep into an oiled mould. Let it get perfectly cold and firm, then pour in a little of a different colour to the same depth. When this is firm, add a third, and continue until the mould is full. Put the mould in a cold place until wanted, and turn it out carefully. The rose-colour may be produced by adding two or three drops of cochineal to the blancmange, chocolate - colour with boiled chocolate, green with spinach -juice, yellow with saffron or yolk of egg. The riband will be spoilt unless each colour is allowed to get quite firm before another is poured upon it. Biband Jelly of Two Colours. Take as much clear, bright calf's-foot or isinglass jelly, properly flavoured, as is required for use. Be careful to use very pale jelly, or the colours will not contrast prettily. Divide it into twc portions, and colour one portion with two or three drops of cochineal. Pour a layer of red an inch deep into a damped mould. Let this get perfectly firm, then add a layer the same depth of pale jellj% and repeat until the mould is full. The mould should, if possible, be placed upon ice as each layer is added. Unless this can be done the jelly will be a long time getting stiff'. Biband Wafers. Rub three or four lumps of sugar upon two large fresh lemons until all the yeUow part is taken oft'. Crush the sugar to powder, and make the weight up to one pound. Mix with this three-quarters of a pound of fine flour, and add gTinlually nine eggs, which have been thoroughly l euten, the yolks and whites first separately and afterwards together. RoU the pastry out till it is as thin as a shilling. Stamp it in rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, lay these upon wellbuttered tins, and bake in a quick oven. "WTien half baked, take the wafers out, roU them round the finger to the form of a scroll, and return them to the oven to crisp. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Bibands, Potato. Peel four or five large potatoes. Throw them into cold water for a few minutes, and dry them with a cloth. Cut them round and round into thin strips er RIB (734) RIC ribands till the centre is reached, and fry them in plenty of boiling fat until they are brightly browned. Drain them weU, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and serve very hot. Time to fry, eight to ten minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ribs of Beef, To Carve {see Beef, Eibs of, To Carve). Ribston Pippin. The following is the account of the Ribston Pippin given in Lindley's Guide .? " Skin pale yellow, russety in the crown and round the stalk, and mottled thinly with dull red on the sunny side. Flesh pale yellow, firm, crisp. Juice saccharine, with a jpungent, rich, and delicious aromatic flavour. A dessert apple from October to April, but it is generally in its greatest perfection when it has been gathered a month or six weeks. The Ribston pippin may be truly said to be one of the best, and certainly is one of the most popular dessert apples of the present day, as well known as the golden pippin and the nonpariel, and a greater number of trees of it arc sold by nurserymen throughout England than of both those sorts put together. It was raised, according to traditionary accounts, from some pips which were brought from Rouen, about the year 1688, and sown in the garden at Ribston Hall, near Knaresborough, in the county of York." Ricardo Sauce for Game, &c. Take any bones of cold roast game that may be left from a previous dressing, chop them into small pieces, and dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them. " Slice four moderate-sized onions, and fry them in butter until they are lightly browned without being burnt; put them into a clean saucepan with the bones, half a pint of stock Hiade from bones, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Liebig's extract of meat, a crust of toasted bread, a glassful of sherry, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire till done enough, rub it through a fine sieve, heat it again, and serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the sauce. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rice. Rice forms a most useful and valuable article of farinaceous food. It is light, nourishing, easy of digestion, and cheap. It has a tendency to constipate the bowels, therefore it is freely given in cases of diarrhoea. In hot countries it is very largely used. Of the varieties of rice, Carolina is the best, largest, and most expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the grains are small, long, and white. Patna rice is chiefly used for curries. Madras rice is the cheapest. In this country rice is greatly undervalued as an article of food. In times of scarcity it has been used as a partial substitute for flour. Ground rice is used for puddings, blancmanges, cakes, and custards. Rice should be kept closely covered to keep insects from it. Rice (a la Bonne Femme). Wash six ounces of rice, throw it into plenty of fast-boiling water, and let it boil quickly for five minutes, then drain, and cool it. Cut four ounces of streaky bacon into dice, and fry these in a little butter until the colour begins to turn. Throw in the rice, dredge pepper lightly over it, and pour upon it a pint and a half of good broth. Let it boil till tender, stirring occasionally to prevent it burning. Have ready half a pint of hot tomato sauce. Pour out the rice, mix it thoroughly with the sauce, and pile the mixture lightly on a dish in the form of a pyramid. Place fried sausages round the rice, and serve very hot. Time to boil the rice, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the sausages. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice (a la Milanaise). Boil half a pound of rice as for curry, and dry it. Fry in hot fat over a slow fire till it begins to colour, and guard very carefully against its burning. Mix with it as much grated Parmesan as will flavour it thoroughly, and add cold-dressed fowl, fish, game, or shell-fish, torn into shreds with two forks. Season with pepper and salt, and serve hot. Rice a la Milanaise is sometimes fried in fat till it is lightly coloured, then simmered until tender in as much broth as will cover it, flavoured with Parmesan, and served instead of soup. Rice (a la Sceur). Wash half a pound of rice in two or three waters. Place it in a large saucepan with plenty of water, and let it boil gently till tender, and in order to ascertain when this point is reached try the grains occasionally with the finger and thumb. Pour off the water, and shake the saucepan over the fire till the rice is dry. Add a slice of fresh butter, and a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and when these ingredients are mixed with the rice put in also the white meat of a dried haddock torn into flakes with two forks, and the whites of three hard-boiled eggs chopped small. Pile this mixture on a hot dish, sprinkle over the top the yolks of the eggs, which have been rubbed through a wire sieve, and mixed with, an equal quantity of grated Parmesan, and put the dish in the oven for a few minutes till the surface is liglitly browned. Servo very hot. Time to boil the rice, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice (a la Turque). Xo. 1. Wash haU a pound of rice in two or three waters. Throw RIC ( 735 ) RIC it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil quickly for iive minutes. Drain and dry it. Slice an onion, and fry in hot fat till it is lightly browned. Take it out and fry tlie rice in the same butter over a gentle fire, turning it about continually to keep it from burning. When it is lightly coloured, pour over it tliree pints of good gravy soup, lightly tinged with saffron powder, and let it simmer gently till tender. Add to the soup a slight seasoning of salt and cayenne, a thickening of flour and butter, and as much grated Parmesan as will season it. Boil the whole gently for ten minutes, and serve as hot as possible in a soup tureen. No. 2. Boil and dry the rice as above. Melt a slice of butter in a frj-ing-pan, and fry in this the rice, first colouring it slightly with ground saffron, and seasoning with salt and cayenne. As the rice will burn very easUy, it should bo fried o-\-er a gentle fire, and should be thrown in just as the butter begins to simmer. When it is lightly browned throw in two table-spoonfuls of raisins, picked and cleaned. Serve very hot. Time, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour to boil the rice. Rice (a ritalienne). No. 1. Wash half a pound of rice in several waters. Throw it into boiling water, and let it boil until tender. Drain and dry it. Wash and drain a moderatesized cabbage, and shred it finely. Melt a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, fry in this four ounces of streaky bacon cut into dice, and add the shred cabbage, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. A clove of garlic and a sprig of fennel may be also added, if liked. Cover the saucepan closely, iand stew the cabbage as gently as possible for three-quarters of an hour. Put in the boiled lice, stew the whole a quarter of an hour longer, and serve the preparation piled high on a hot dish with gi-ated Parmesan or Cheddar cheese sprinkled over the top. No. 2. Boil half a pound of rice, drain and dry it as before. lelt an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, fry in this a moderate-sized onion chopped small, and add the dry rice, the pulp of three baked potatoes, an ounce of grated Parmesan or Cheddar cheese, and a little pepper and salt. When the mixture is thoroughly heated pile it on a hot dish. Lay on the surface some filleted anchovies or sardines, and serve immediately. No. 3. Boil and dry the rice as before. Fry a chopped onion with a spoonful of salad-oil or an ounce of fresh butter till lightly browned. Add two teaspoonfuls of curry-paste and half a pint of picked shrimps, and stir these over the fire for four or five minutes. Throw in the boiled rice and one ounce of grated Parmesan or Cheddar, and serve the preparation quite hot. No. 4. Boil and diy the rice as before. Fry it in hot fat, and mix with it any remains of fish, meat, or poultry that may be at hand, being careful first to divide these into small pieces. Season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, add a spoonful of Parmesan or other cheese, and serve very hot. Rice, American mode of Cooking. Take a nice clean stewpan, with a closelyfitting lid. Have ready a clean piece of white cloth, large enough to cover over the top of Jtbe stewpan, and hang down inside nearly to, but not in contact with, the bottom, and thus form a sort of sack, into which put the rice. Pour over it two cupf uls of water, and then put on the lid of the stewpan so as to hold up the cloth inside and fit tight all round. Put the stewpan on the fire, and the steam generated by the water will cook the rice to perfection. Add more water, but only just enough to keej) up the steam. Rice and Almond Mould. Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in one or two waters. Drain it and put it into a delicately clean saucepan with a quart of milk, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, two ounces of sweet almonds, and four bitter ones, which have been blanched and pounded to a smooth paste. Sinnner the rice gently until it is quite tender. Beat it for two or three minutes with a wooden spoon, and press it into a damp mould. Let it stand in a cold place for four or five hours. Turn it out carefully, ornament it with brightcolom-ed jam or jelly of any kind, pour a quarter of a pint of cream or good custard over it, and it is ready for serving. Time to simmer the rice, a little more than an hour. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the cream and jam. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice and Apple Cake. Take half a pound of rice, boil it in milk tiU tender and in a thick mass, adding sugar, grated lemon-peel, and a cupful of peach-water, or flavour with two spoonfuls of orange-flower water and one ounce of pounded bitter almonds. Stir the mixture well, that it may not burn. Peel twelve large apj les, slice them thin, and stew them in a glassful of wine and a little water, adding some sugar and grated lemon-peel. Let them stew till they become a fine marmalade. When the apples and rice are both cold, take a cake-form, cover it thin with rice, spread the apples over it, spread rice again about the thickness of the back of a knife, then apples, and so on, the last layer being rice. Set the cake in the oven for a quarter of an hour, turn it out when cold, and send to table with punch or custard sauce poured over it. Rice and Apple Pudding. Throw half a pound of rice into boiling water, let it boil for ten minutes, drain, and dry it. Spread half of it on a pudding-cloth, and lay upon it six or eight apples pared, cored, and sliced, the thin rind of half a lemon, and two table -spoonfuls of sugar. Spread the remainder of the rice over the fruit, draw the cloth loosely over it, and tie it securely. Be careful to allow plenty of room for the rice to swell. Plunge the pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. It will be well to put_ a plate under it to keep it from sticking. Turn it out carefully, and send to table with a small quantity of sweet sauce poured round the pudding, and more in a tureen. Time to boU, an hour and tlrree- quarters to two hours. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Rice and Apples. Simmer six ounces of rice in a quart of milk tiU it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. Sweeten it, and flavour BIC (736) EIC with grated nutmeg or grated lemon-rind. Pare eight or ten large apples, quarter and core them, and lay them in a saucepan with the chopped rind and strained juice of a large fresh lemon, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a wine-glassful of water. Let them simmer genltly until they are tender, then drain them on a sieve. They must not be allowed to break. Spread the rice on a dish, and make it slightly hollow in the centre. Lay part of the apples upon it, spread more rice over these, then add more apples, and repeat until the ingredients are used, and the rice has assumed the form of a 'pyramid. Boil the juice which drained from the apples to a thick syrup, and pour this hot over the whole. Garnish the dish prettily with angelica or with lemon or orangerind cut into strips and stewed in the syrup. Serve either hot or cold. Time, three-quarters of an hour to sinomcr the rice, half an hour to stew the apples. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice and Apples (another way). Boil six ounces of rice in a quart of milk till tender ; sweeten and flavour agreeably. Pare six or eight medium-sized apples, scoop out the cores, and fill the cavities with sugar, butter, and lemon-rind. Lay the apples in a thicklybuttered dish, and put the rice round them. Brush the surface with yolk of egg, and sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Place the dish in a brisk oven, and bake the preparation until the apples are tender and the rice is brightly browned. Serve hot or cold. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice and Apples (another yra.y). See Apples and Rice. Rice and Apricot Pudding. Wash one pound of rice. Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with three pints of boiling milk, a slice of fresh butter, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Let it simmer gently for an hour. Pour it out, and when it is partially cooled stir into it three well-beaten eggs. Take a dozen and a half of preserved apricots. Halve them, simmer them in a little thin syrup for five minutes, and drain them. Butter a plain pudding mould, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the butter. Place in the mould a layer of rice an inch thick. Put on this some pieces of apricot, and fill the mould with alternate layers of rice and fruit. Bake the pudding in a moderatelyheated oven. When it is done enough, turn it out carefully, and serve with a good custard poured round it. If preferred, other fruits may be used instead of apricots. Pine-apple or apple are especially suitable. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, varjdng with the price of fruit. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Rice and Apricots (? ;e Apricots, au Riz). Rice aild Chicken. Wash half a pound of rice in two or three waters, throw it into boihng water, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Drain it on a sieve. Truss a plump young chicken for boiling. Put it into a stewpan with the rice, a slice of butter, a pinch of salt, six or eight peppercorns, and a small onion. Pour in as much veal stock or water as will cover the fowl and the rice, cover the saucepan closely, bring the liquor to the boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let all simmer very gently until the chicken is done enough. Take it up, and keep it hot. Strain the rice, and let it swell for a minute or two on a sieve before the fire. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a little flour and butter, add a quarter of a pint of cream, and further seasoning if required, then heat it again. Serve the fowl in the centre of a dish, with the rice neatly arranged round it, a little of the sauce poured over it, and the rest in a tureen. Serve immediately. Time to simmer the chicken, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour from the time the stock boils. Probable cost, 58. or more, according to the price of the chicken. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rice and Chicken (another way). Boil a chicken and a quarter of a pound of rice as in the preceding recipe. Drain off the rice, and beat it thoroughly till quite smooth with a slice of butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and as much curry-powder as will make it a bright j'cllow colour. Spread part of the rice on a dish, lay the fowl upon it, and put the rest of the rice round it, leaving the breast uncovered. Make the surface of the rice smooth, and lay upon it a border of hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise. Strain the gravy in which the rice was boiled, and serve in. a tureen. Rice and Chicken (a la Creole). Wash half a pound of rice in two or three waters, throw it into boiling water, and boil gently until it is quite tender. Drain it, and put it on a sieve before the fire to swell. Divide two young chickens into neat joints convenient for serving, sprinkle over these a seasoningmade with two crushed cloves, ten powdered peppercorns, and a pinch of ground saffron, and fry in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Take them up, and in the same fat fry thirty small onions chopped small. As soon as the onions turn yellow, di-ain and put them into a saucepan with the fried fowl, and pour over all as much veal stock as will cover them. Let all simmer gently together until the chicken is done enough. Put the pieces of chicken on a dish, thicken the gravy with a spoonful of brown thickening, and pour it over them : serve the rice on a separate dish. The rice and the chicken should be stewed at the same time, that they may be sufficiently di'essed and hot together. Time to simmer the chicken, about forty minutes. Probable cost of chickens, 2s. Gd. each when in full season. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Rice and Egg Soup {a. Danish recipe). Make a bouillon, and strain it ; set it again on the fire with a quarter of a pound of scalded rice ; let it boil tUl quite tender, then beat up the yolks of four or six eggs, and stir them in. The soup must not boil after the eggs are added. Send to table with toasted bread. Rice and Gooseberry Pudding {see Gooseberry and Pice Pudding). EIC (737) EIC Bice and Green Pea Soup (a French recipe). Take a sufficient quantity of rice, and wash it four or five times in moderately warm Avater. Add some thin stock, and boil for an hour and a half. When the rice is cooked, add, about an hour and a half before serving the soup, some puree of green peas, taking ciire that they are well mixed, and are neither too thick nor too thin. Bice and Indian Curry. "Wash half a poimd of Patna rice in two or three waters. Drain it, and throw it into plenty of cold water, bring it slowly to the boil, keeping the saucepan uncovered, and let it boil gently until the grains are tender when pressed between the thumb and finger, but are still quite distinct from one another. The rice will need to boil about a quarter of an hour. Drain and dry it on a sieve before the fire. Take two pounds of undressed meat of any kind, or of rabbit, chicken, or fish, and cut this up into neat pieces convenient for serving. Slice two large onions, and fry them in butter tin they are lightly browned without being at all burnt. Take them up, and fry the meat in the same fat, moving it about to keep it from ?burning. IMix a dessert-spoonful of currj'paste, a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with a cupful of milk. Pour this over the meat, and add half a pint of good stock made from bones, the fried onions, a little salt, and a clove of garlic, if this is liked, but the curry will be more generally acceptable if the garlic is omitted. Stir the sauce tiU it boils, and simmer all gently together till the meat is tender. The time required will vary with the nature of the meat. Put the pieces of meat on a dish. Lift out the pieces of onion, and stir into the curry the juice of haK a lemon. Pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. Send the rice to table on a separate dish. It should be arranged that the curry and the rice shall be done enough at the same time. Time, altogether, about two hours. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Bice and Macaroon Pudding. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it in a pint and a half of milk till it is tender, and has absorbed the liquor. Boil with it the rind of half a lemon or three or four bitter almonds, to flavour it. Turn it into a basin to cool. Beat three ounces of fresh butter to cream. Mix with this thi'ee ounces of powdered sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Stir in the rice, and add the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Butter a pudding-mould rather thickly. Put in this a layer of rice, then a layer of macaroons, and repeat until the mould is fuU. Lay a buttered paper on the top of the pudding, tie it in a cloth, and steam until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and send raspberry or red-currant sauce to table with the pudding. About three ounces of macaroons wiU be required. Time to steam the pudding, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 9d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Bice and Milk. Wash a pound of rice, drain it, and simmer in five pints of water till it forms a thick paste. Stir into it a quart of milk, add treacle or sugar, with flavouring, or, if preferred, pepper and salt. Boil for a few minutes, and serve hot. Time, five minutes to boil the rice with the milk. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, 8d. Bice and Mussels [see Mussels and Rice). Bice and Onion owp. Broun Soup. Cut six onions into pieces the size and shape of dice, and fry them in butter until they arc nicely browned. Pour over them as much stock as will cover them, and let them simmer gently till tender. Rub them through a sieve, add to the pulp two quarts of good stock, put the whole back into the stewpan, with four ounces of weU-washed rice, and simmer all gently together until the rice is tender. Add salt and. white pepper, and serve. In boiling the soup be careful first to skim it thoroughly, and, after the fat is removed, to stir the soup frequently. The flavour of this soup may be pleasantly varied by frying four carrots, two turnips, six leeks, and a Uttle root of parsley with the onions. White Soup. Mix six chopped onions with four ounces of soaked rice. Boil the whole till tender in two quarts of veal or chicken broth : season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of powdered mace. When the soup is done enough, stir into it one-third of the quantity of boiling milk. Let it boil up, and it wiU be ready for serving. Time, one hour and a half to two hours. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Bice and Parmesan, Pigeons with. {see Pigeons with Rice, &c.). Bice and Pumpkin Soup {see Pumpkm and Rice Soup). Bice and Tapioca Pudding. Butter a pie-dish, and lay in it a tea-cupfiu of mixed, rice and tapioca, a Httle more of the former than of the latter. Sprinkle over this two table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar and a little grated nutmeg, and pour over it three pints of cold milk. Place a piece of butter the size of a fourpenny-piece on the top of the milk, and bake the pudding in a gentle oven. Time to bake, three or four hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for haK a dozen, persons. Bice and Veal Broth. Put two pounds of the knuckle of veal into a saucepan, and pour over it two quarts of boiling water ; add four ounces of washed rice, half a blade of mace, and a Uttle pepper and salt, and let all simmer as gently as possible from an hour and a haK to two hours. Serve the broth in a tureen with part of the meat, and send the rest of the meat to table on a separate dish, with, parsley sauce over it. Time, one hour and a haK. Probable cost, 28. 4d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Bice and Veal Cutlets. Take equal parts of cold veal and of rice boiled in milk till it is tender. Pound the ingredients in a mortar, first separatelj-, and afterwards together, season the mixture with pepper and salt, and a very small portion of grated nutmeg, and bind it together with yolk of egg. Form it into the shape of small cutlets, brush these over with yolk of egg, and fry in hot mc (738) mc fat. Serve with piquant sauce, and send stewed mushrooms to tahle on a separate dish. Time to fry, till lightly browned on both sides. Probable cost of veal, about Is. 2d. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen small cutlets for three persons. Rice and Veal Soup {see Veal and Eice Soup). Bice and Wheat Bread {see Bread, Wheat and Eice). Bice, Andalusian. This dish, which is one very commonly served in Spain and Portugal, is valued as a tonic during the heats of summer, and is also recommended as a preventative of intestinal indisposition : it is peculiar, but the taste for it is an easily acquired one. Warm in a saucepan half a pound of best olive-oil or fresh butter. Throw in half a pound of picked rice, and one pound or one pound and a half of veal or poultry flesh, cut into neat squares. Add half a pint of tomato sauce, or three or four fresh tomatoes, one or two chopped onions, a table-spoonful of shrett parsley, a pinch of powdered saffron, and a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. In Spain a clove of garlic is always added. Stir these ingredients into the warm oil, and let them stow gently for ten minutes ; pour over them a pint of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently imtil the rice has absorbed the liquor. Throw the whole into a heated strainer for a minute to drain off any oil that may be left, and pile the rice, which will be. a bright yellow colour, upon a hot dish. Hold a red-hot shovel or salamander over the top for a minute or two to brown the surface. and send the dish to table with cut lemons, that each guest may squeeze a little juice over his plate. Time, laalf to three-quarters of an hour to simmer the rice. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bice, Apple. Boil four ounces of rice in milk, with sugar and lemon-peel chopped fine, till it becomes tender. Peel and core six apples, let them simmer in sugar and water with the juice of a lemon till they are so tender that a fork will easily pass through them ; then take them off and let them drain. Make in the same syrup reduced, a marmalade with four apples, which is to be mixed with the rice, and the yolks of three eggs. Spread this marmalade on a baking-dish ; place the six apples in it in such a manner that the hollow part will be uppermost and even with the rice ; bake them in a moderate oven. The moment before serving, fill the centre of the apples with apricot marmalade, or any other preserve you please. Or you may make the foundation entirely of apple marmalade, fining the apples with preserves when you place them in the dish, and masking the whole with rice. . Von Kochheim. Bice, Apples (Souflae of), in {see Apples, Souffle of, in Eice). Bice, Apricots with {see Apricots with Eice). Bice Beer. The practice of brewing beer from rice is rapidly coming into use in Germany. The beer is said to be of a very clear pale colour, and of an extremely pleasant mUd taste, foaming strongly, and yet retaining weU its carbonic acid. Bice Biscuits. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Stir into this foxir ounces of ground rice and two table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Moisten the mixture with a well-beaten egg, roll it out, and stamp it into small rounds with a pastry-cutter. Put these on a baking-dish, and bake in a gentle oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for a dozen small cakes. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Bice Blancmange. Soak three laurelleaves or the thin rind of half a lemon in a quart of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured, or, if preferred, drop into the milk a few drops of almond or vanilla flavouring. Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice smoothly with a portion of the milk, add the rest gradually, together with a slice of fresh butter and a little sugar, and put the whole into a saucepan. Stir it over the fire, and let it boil for about ten minutes, or until it leaves the sides of the pan ; turn it into a damp mould, and let it stand in a cold place till it is set. Just before it is wanted, turn it upon a glass dish, ornament with brightcoloured jam, or place stewed fruit round it, and if liked, serve a little custard with it. The appearance of this dish may be varied by putting it into five or six small cups instead of into one mould, placing a piece of candied fruit upon the top of each one when turned out, and pouring custard round the whole. Time, about ten minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of jam and custard. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bice Blancmange (another way), -See Blancmange, Eice. Bice Blancmange (a German recipe). Take half a pound of ground rice and boil it in a quart of milk or cream, adding sugar, lemonpeel, and a stick of cinnamon or a piece of vanilla. When the rice is well boiled take oiifc the spice and lemon-peel ; dip a basin or moiild into cold water, and pour the rice into it. "Wlien the rice is quite cold, turn it out, and serve with a custard or fruit sauce poured, over. Bice, Boiled. Take a pound of good rice, and wash it well in two separate waters. When the water is boiling throw in the rice. When the rice is three-parts done, drain the water from it in a sieve. Butter the inside of a stewpan, put the rice into it, close the lid tightly, and put the pan in a warm oven, or by the side of the fire, until the rice is perfectly tender. Prepared thus every grain will b? distinct and beautifully white. Serve with CTirry or with any other dish. Bice, Boiled (a la Carolina). Take a sufficient quantity of rice, and pick it free from rough grains and foreign substances, then wash it quickly in cold water, and hurry it to the pot before the grain is at all softened. As to the quantity of water to be used in boiling, there are two modes. One is to put in twice as much water as rice, and allow it all to be RIC ( 739 ) RIC absorbed by the grain; the other is to put in thi-ee or four times as much water, but to pour almost all of it off as soon as the grain changes from its pearly-white colour and gives proof of having softened. In both modes, when this stage of boiling has been attained, the pot is to be -w-ithdrawn from the hot fire and set where it will be kept at a low steaming heat until the water is all gone. The last process is called "soaking." Properly conducted, the rice comes from the pot perfectly done, of a clear white colour, with each grain firm and dlstmct and swelled to double its original size. Salt, of course, is to be added. Rice prepared in this way should not be stirred much in boiling, or it will become gluey ; a largo open fork passed through it once or twice will be sufficient. This recipe was furnished recently to the Food Journal by a lady familiar from childhood with all the luxui'ies of a rice plantation. Rice Boiled for Curry. Patna rice ought properly to be used for curry, but when it is not at hand Carolina rice wili do abnost as well. Wash half a pound of rice in two or thi-ee waters, drain it, and pick out every discolonred grain. Season two quarts of boili:*g water with a little salt, sprinkle the rice into it, and let it boil with the lid of the saucepan partly off, till it is three-parts done. Drain it on a colander, then put it into a buttered saucepan, cover closely, and let it remain by the side of the fire until each grain is perfectly tender when pressed between the thumb and finger, but still unbroken. Be careful not to stir the rice while it is boiling, and serve on a separate dish. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for live or six persons. Rice, Boiled, for Curry (another way). 8ec Curry, to Boil Rice for. Rice, Boiled, Plain (Soyer's recipe). Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, with a tea-spoonful of salt ; when boiling, add to it half a poimd of rice well washed ; boil for ten minutes, or till each grain becomes rather soft ; drain it into a colander, slightly grease the pot ?with butter, and put the rice back into it ; let it swell slowly for about twenty minutes near the fire, or in a slow oven. Each grain will then swell up, and be well separated ; it is then ready for use. Rice, Boiled, To Serve as aVegetable with Hot Meat. Wash half a pint of rice in several waters imtil the water is clear. Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of cold water, a pinch of salt, and a piece of butter the size of a pea. Let it boil gently until it is tender and quite dry. Serve in a vegetable tureen. Or, wash the rice, and tie it loosely in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell to four times its bulk. Put it into boiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. Lift it upon a sieve, drain it, untie the string, and shake the rice into a vegotable-dish. Stir with a fork to separate the grains, and add a slice of butter and a little pepper and salt. Time, with the cloth, an hour and a half ; \n'Ci\out the cloth, half an hour. Rice Border (a Danish recipe). Scald one pound of rice, boil it in two pints of milk till it becomes a stiff cake. While still warm stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, four k\. gs, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Put it into the oven to bake, setting the dish in sand to prevent its cracking. This may be used round anything you please, though generally fish stewed, especially lobsters stewed with cauliflower, and has a very pretty effect. A little of the lobster-butter should be mixed with the rice to give it a fine red colour. Eochheim. Rice, Border of. Sweet and savoury preparations of all kinds are very good served in a border of rice instead of with pastry. This border may be made in a mould, which may be easily procured, as moulds are made on purpose for rice borders, or it may be formed with the hand. The latter is the more difficult process of the two. The rice should be boiled in stock or water, with a seasoning of pepper and salt ; or it should be boiled in milk, sweetened and flavoured, according to the nature of the preparation which is to accompany it. For a border of rice served with a fricassee or savoury stew of any kind, wash and drain a pound of rice, and simmer it gently with two ounces of butter, three pints of water, and a little salt, till it is quite tender, and has absorbed the liquor. A little onion or a slice of fat bacon may be added if liked. When the rice is done enough, pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste, cover the bottom and sides of a buttered mould with this, being careful to leave a thick and compact crust in every part, place a piece of bread in the centre, and cover it with rice. Press it with a spoon, and smooth it, then let it remain until cold. Dip the mould in cold water and turn the rice upon a dish, mark the lid on the top about an inch from the edge, brush the rice over with clarified butter, and bake in a very hot oven imtil it is brightly browned all over. Take off the cover, now become an upper crust, remove the bread very carefully, fill the hollow with the preparation destined for it, lay on the cover, glaze the rice, put it in the oven a minute or two, and serve very hot. Filleted fish, lamb's and sheep's trotters, stewed oysters, sweetbreads, game puree, ragouts of cold meat or fowl, may all be served in this way. For rice which is to be served with jam or fruit of any kind, boil the rice with milk, and when it is tender, beat it up with butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs, then jiroceed precisely as above. WTien no mould is used, boil the rice as above, pound it in a mortar, then gather it into a ball: wash the hands in cold water, and mould the rice into a round shape, about four inches high and seven wide. Mark the cover an inch from the end, ornament the outside in any fanciful way, brush over with clarified butter, and bake in a hot oven. "When done enough, lift off the cover, and scoop out as much rice from the centre as will leave the requisite vacant space, taking care to leave the walls firm and compact, "rime, about an hour and a half to simmer the rice; half to three-quarters of an liour to colour the border. Rice Bread. In this country rice is seldom made into bread by itself, though it may mc ( 740) mc be by the following process. Take enough riceflour and put it in the kneading trough ; at the same time boil a due proportion of water in a cauldi-onand throw in a small quantity of ground rice, which must be boiled till the decoction forms a thick viscous substance, which is to be poured upon the flour, and the mass is to be kneaded ?with a mixture of salt and yeast. The dough is then covered with a warm cloth and left to rise. As the fermentation proceeds, the dough, which at first was firm, becomes almost fluid, and seems totally incapable of being moulded by the hand. To prevent the inconvenience and loss which would ensue from its spreading, a tin box is prepared with a handle long enough to reach the end of the oven; a little water is poiu'ed into it, and it is then filled with dough, over which are laid some cabbage-leaves and a covering of paper. The box is deposited for a short time in the heated oven, and then suddenly reversed, so that the dough retains its place in the mould, and is converted into a loaf of the same form. The bread is of a fine yeUow colour, as if it had eggs in it, and is very agreeable to the taste, but it must be eaten while fresh, as it loses much of its flavour on becoming stale. This bread is also useful to put into soups. Rice Bread (another way). Under the head of "The Rectory Recipe,'' Miss Acton, in her English Bread Book, gives the following, which she had received from " an admirable housekeeper," the vfife of a country clergj man : " We have been for some time in the habit of using a portion of rice for our bread. "VVe commenced this plan when flour was very dear, and we think the bread so much improved by the addition that now we seldom omit it. We generally bake two stone (that is to say, four gallons, or twenty-eight pounds) of flour; for this quantity we aUow two pounds of rice. We first wash the rice, and then soak it for three or four hours in six pints of water. It is next turned, with the whole of the water, into a large tin dish with a cover (a Nottingham jar well tied down would be a good substitute for this), and put it into a tolerably hot oven for two hours, when it will be nicely swollen, and will have absorbed all the water. When it has cooled down sufficiently to be handled easily, we rub it into half the flour, in the same way that we should rub butter or lard into it for pastry, and proceed to make the bread. If we can procure good Iwme-breived yeast we prefer it to any other, and find a quarter of a pint sufficient for our baking; but we verj- frequently use baker s yeast, which we find we can depend on better than on the brewer's. It is a thin liquid, somewhat resembling beer, of which we are obliged to mix three-quarters of a pint with the dough. We add first to the flour and rice two small handfuls of salt, and then wet them up gradually with ten pints of warm water, reserving the yeast until they are tolerably well moistened, when we pour it equally well over the mass, and beat it in well with the hand, and knead it about. This dough wUl be very lithe. We make it about four o'clock in the afternoon, and place it by the fire, or on the top of the oven, where it remains until nine in the evening, when three-quarters of a stone (a gallon and a half) more of flour is kneaded into it, and it is left to rise until the morning, when the remaining half-gallon of flour will fit it for the oven. It should be put into large tins, and allowed to rise to their tops before it is set into the oven. We divide it into ten loaves, which are baked for two hours. We consider that the rice renders the bread lighter, and prevents the crust of it from becoming hard, and it materially increases the weight. The four gallons of flour, two pounds of rice, and sixteen gallons of water, produce forty-two pounds of excellent bread. " To improve the yeast and ensure its being good, I would recommend that three or four well-boiled potatoes should be smoothly mashed and mixed with as much hot water as will bring them to the consistence of batter, and that a small plateful of wann flour and the yeast should be gradually added and well beaten to them. This done, the mixture must be placed before the fire, and in two hours, or less, the whole bowl will be in a state of fermentation. Then is the time to lay the bread with it. It is a little additional trouble, but is a certain improvement also. Servants, however, will not often take all this trouble, and mistresses cannot always attend to such matters themselves. "To give the essence, then, of this recipe: Two pounds of rice soaked in three quarts of water, and afterwards swollen in it for two hours in a moderately hot oven ; to be cooled down a little, then worked into a stone (two gallons) of flour; two small handfuls of salt; a quarter of a pint of yeast of home-brewed beer (or three-quarters of a pint of baker's yeast), and five quarts of warm water to be added to them, and well mixed into a little dough. To stand near the fire, or on the top of the stove oven, from foirr o'clock in the afternoon till nine in the evening; a gallon and a half more of flour worked into it, left until the morning; the remaining half-gallon of flour used in kneading and making it ready for the oven. This dough is di\'ided into ten loaves, put into large square tins, left until it has risen to their tops, put immediately into a well-heated oven, and baked for two hours. The product of this recipe forty-two pounds of bread. Rice Bread (another way). Wash a pound and a half of rice in plenty of water till it is soft. Drain it, mash it well or rub it through a sieve, and mix it whilst still warm vith seven pounds of flour. Put the flour into a bowl, sprinkle an ounce of salt round it and make a hole in the centre. Mix four table-spoonfuls of yeast with three-quarters of a pint of milk and water a Httle more than new milk warm. Pour three-quarters of a pint of milk and water of the same warmth into the bottom of the hole, stir into this, gradually, as much of the flour as will make a thin batter, add the yeast, stir all together, and sprinkle a little flour over the top. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and let it stand for an horn- and a half, or until the yeast rises in bubbles. Knead it up well till the dough ceases to stick to the fingers, and let RIG (741) RIC it rise again for a couple of hours till it is quite Kght. Grease some tins, three-paits fill them with the loaves, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size of the loaves. Rice Bread (another way). - See Bread, Rice. Rice Bread (other ways). Rice when made into bread is usually mixed with some other grain. The following modes in which it has been so employed with advantage are given by Webster and Parkes : 1. The Americans make bread with it in this manner. The rice is thoroughly cleansed by pouring water upon it and stirring it, the water being changed occasionally, until all impurities are washed away. The water is then drawn off, and the rice, while yet damp, is bruised in a mortar ; it is then dried and passed through a hair sieve. The flour thus obtained is generally kneaded with a small quantity of Indian-corn meal, and is boiled until it has acquired a thickish consistency ; sometimes boiled potatoes are added. The mass is fermented either with leaven or yeast, and the dough is then baked in pans. The bread thus prepared i? reputed to be light, wholesome, and agreeable to the palate. 2. Let a quarter of a pound of rice be boiled until it be quite soft ; leave it to drain on the back part of a sieve, and when cool, mix with it three-quarters of a pound of wheat-flour, a spoonful of yeast, and two ounces of salt. Let it stand for three hours to ferment, then knead it very thoroughly, and roU it in as much wheaten flour as will give to the exterior sufficient consistency to allow of its being conveniently deposited in the oven. After baking an hour and a quarter it will form a loaf of good white bread weighing one pound fourteen ounces. 3. To one peck of wheat-flour add half a peck of rice-flour; let them be mixed and loieaded with salt, yeast, and warm water, in the usual manner. Divide the mass, when fermented and duly risen, into eight loaves, and bake them. 4. Boil a peck of rice till it becomes soft ; let it stand all night in a pan, and it will be found greatly distended. Let a peck of potatoes be boiled, skinned, and mashed to a pulp. Knead them while hot with the rice, and a peck of wheat-flour; then add a suflicient quantity of yeast and salt, and leave the dough to ferment ; the mass may be di dded into ! loaves, and baked in the usual manner. j Rice, Buttered. "Wash four ounces of rice, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a ! pint and a half of milk. Let it simmer gently j until the grains are tender. Pour off the thick I nulk, and put in two ounces of butter, two j table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, or any other flavouring. Stir the rice until the butter is melted and the rice is ' equally flavoured, turn it upon a dish, and serve very hot. Time, about one hour. Pre- { bable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Cake. The following is a very light rice cake. Take a quarter of a poimd of flour, six ounces of rice-flour, twelve ounces of sugar, twelve eggs, and the raspings of two lemons ; separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, whisk up the whites to a strong froth; then mix in the yolks, pounded sugar, and lemon raspings. Whisk this over a slow fire for about half an hour ; when it is quite light and thick take it off the fire, and whisk it till it is quite cold, then stir in the flour and rice. Bake the cake in paper cases in a moderate heat ; put four or five sheets of paper under them, and ice before baking. Rice Cakes, Plain. No l. Rub half a pound of butter into one pound of flour. Add one pound of ground rice, a small pinch of salt, three heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, half a pound of sugar, one pound of picked and dried currants, and two ounces of candied peel. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed stir in four well-beaten eggs and a tea-cupful of milk. Bake the cake immediately in a wellheated oven. Probable cost, 28. 8d. Time, according to size. When a skewer can be pushed to the bottom in the centre of the cake, and be brought out clean and bright, the cake is done enough. No. 2. Beat four ounces of butter to a cream. Add haK a pound of sugar, three beaten eggs stirred in gradually, a quarter of a pound of picked and dried currants, a quarter of a pound of candied peel, half a pound of ground rice, a quarter of a pound of flour. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, bake immediately. Probable cost, Is. 5d. No. 3. Rub six ounces of butter into three-quarters of a pound of rice-flour. Add five ounces of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of currants, a teaspoonful of candied-peel chopped very small, half a small tea-spoonful of soda dissolved in half a tea-cupful of lukewarm milk, and three eggs well whisked. Beat these ingredients thoroughly for a few minutes, and bake the cake immediately, in a weU-heated oven. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Rice Cakes, Rich. No. i. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Break ten eggs into a separate bowl, and whisk them thoroughly. Mix with them half a pound of powdered sugar flavoured with the rind of two lemons, half a pound of rice-flour, and the creamed butter. Turn the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. No. 2.- Beat first separately, and afterwards together, the yolks and whites of twelve eggs. Add twelve ounces of ground rice, four oimces of flour, one pound of powdered sugar, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and bake as before. Probable cost, 2s. No. 3. Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add four ouncesof powdered sugar, the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, and gradually, four ounces of ground rice and the grated rind of half a lemon. Whisk the whites of two eggs to a firm froth. Add them to the other ingredients, beat the mixture rapidly for twenty minutes, and bake in a quick oven. If liked, the butter may be omitted, and the cake will then be particularly suitable for an invalid. These ingredients will make a smaU cake. Probable cost. Is. Id. No. 4. Beat the yolks of eight eggs thoroughly, and mix with them one pound and a quarter of powdered sugar. Mix nine ounces of ground rice with nine ounces of dried flour, add this in small quantities at a EIO (742) RIC 'time to the sugar and eggs, and beat the mixture between every addition. At least half an hour should he occupied with putting in the flour and beating the cake. Add the whites of the eggs beaten to snow, the peel of a lemon finely shred, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Beat the cake a quarter of an hour longer, and bake in a well-heated oven. Probable cost, Is. 8d. No. 5. Beat the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites of eight. Add a few drops of almond flavouring, and beat in three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar and one pound of ground rice. Beat the nuxture till it is smooth and light, put it into a buttered tin, and bake in a quick oven. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Time, according to size. When a skewer can be pushed to the bottom of the cake in the centre and be brought out clean and dry, the cake is done enough. Rice Cakes, Small. No. l. Beat four ounces of fresh butter to cream. Add four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, four ounces of ground rice, and one or two drops of any flavouring that may be liked. Add, gradually, first the yolks and afterwards the whites of four well-whisked eggs. Beat the mixture to a paste, and bake in a smaU. buttered tin in a well-heated oven. Probable cost. Is. No. 2. Beat four ounces of butter to cream. Add eight ounces of finely-pounded sugar, eight ounces of ground rice, and the yolks and -whites of four well-beaten eggs. Drop the mixture in cakes on a buttered baking-tin, sift sugar over them, and bake in a wellheated" oven. Probable cost, Is. 3d. No. 3. Eub three ounces of butter into half a pound of rice-flour. Moisten the mixture with a little cold water. When it is quite smooth roll it out till it is very thin, stamp it into small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. No. 4. The remains of cold boiled rice may be beaten up with milk and eggs, and a little flour to make a batter, then fried in hot fat till they are lightly browned, and served for breakfast. Rice, Canadian. Canadian rice is the seed of the zizania aquatica. It grows on the margins of shallow streams and running waters, and produce an abundance of wholesome farinaceous grain. It is called in Canada, lake rice, tuscarora or mahnomoncc, and is found in shallow waters from Florida to the Canadian lakes. It is regularly harvested by the Indians, this work being chiefly performed by their squaws ; but it is not gathered in any quantity by the white population, although it is esteemed a great delicacy. It has been tried in this country, and it is likely it would succeed if it should become an object of demand: as it is aquatic, it can be cheaply cultivated. Rice, Casserole of. Pick the rice weU, wash it thoroughly first in lukewarm and next in cold water. Drain it, and throw it into a stewpan of a proper size, that it may swell with ease; moisten with some "pot-top" (fat). The broth must be previously drained through a silk sieve, that the rice may be kept veiy clean. INIix it with a large quantity of grease ? some pieces of fat ham in order to make the rice more mellow, and a little salt. As the rice must swell very much, use a suSicient quantity of broth to produce that effect. Lay the rice on a very slow fire, and stir frequently that it may not stick. Taste it to ascertaiu whether it is well seasoned and done enough ; then strain it through a colander, and move it well with a wooden spoon. Take oft' the fat that issues from the rice and pour it into the mould which you select for the casserole ; when all the parts of the latter are well covered with the grease, drain it by tm-ning the mould upside down, then put some rice all round the mould ; put a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice, squeeze it in equally with your spoon, and let it cool. When the rice has become firm, dip the outside of the mould into boiling water. Have a little pate brisee, which frame the size of the mould; turn the mould over the paste ; make an opening with a knife in the top, and flatten the paste all round with a spoon ; then put it into the oven, which can never be too hot for a casserole, for if the oven is not hot enough the casserole is liable to break ; baste -vvith the grease, and when the casserole is become of a fine colour, take it out of the oven ; open it gently, then cut the bread into small pieces with a penknife, that you may take it out without injuring the casserole ; next remove the rice that sticks round, but do not empty it too much, for fear it should not bear or resist the weight of whatever you intend to throw in. You generally put into these casseroles white and brown ragoiits, blanquettes, cminces, fricassees of fowls, macaroni, and scollops of fish that have already been sent up to table, &c. kc. Ude. Rice Cassolettes. The rice must be prepared as directed in the recipe, " Rice Casserole of," but must be put into smaller moulds, those called dariole or custard moulds ; and the mould must be buttered all round, or you may use the fat from the rice as above. Mind that the cassolettes are to be quite cold before you take them out of the mould. The best method of filling up the cassolettes is to take a carrot, and cut it a proper largo size, to make a hole in the rice ; this hole you fill up with a mince of fowl, with bechamel sauce. This mince must be thordughly cold. When you fill up the mould with the rice, close it, without allowing any of the mince to be mixed with the rice, in which case the cassolettes, would break in the dripping w-hen you fry them. To prevent this accident, dip them in an omelet and crumbs once, and put them into very hot dripping. It is to be observed, that in making cassolettes the rice must be made quite firm ; and that they require something of a white colour to be added ; as a mince with veloute, a salpicon of palates and of mushrooms a I'Allemande, or fillets of fish with bechamel sauce, &c. You may likewise give them a light brown colour in the oven, the same as other casseroles of rice, but frj-ing is the best and the quickest waJ Tide. Rice Caudle, or Rice Milk. Soak two table-spoonfuls of whole rice in a cupful of cold water for one hour. Strain it, and put it mc (743) BIG into a saucepan with a pint and a half of cold milk. Lot it simmer gently iintil it is so tender that it will pulp thi'ough a sieve. Put the pulp and milk into a clean saucepan, with a small pinch of salt, a little sugar, and a flavoui'ing of lemon-peel, cinnamon, or grated nutmeg. Rice milk may be enriched by the addition of a little piece of butter, one or two beaten eggs, a glassful of wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy, but these additions should be made after the rice is taken off the hre. Or, mix a table-spoonful of rice smoothly with a little cold milk. Pour ujjon this gradually a pint of hot milk, and boil the mixture till it is smooth, stirring all the time. Sweeten and flavour according to taste. Time to boil the whole rice, about an hour and a half; the ground rice, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pint. Rice Caudle, Savoury. Soak two table-spoonfuls of rice in a cuptul of cold water for an hour. Drain it, and put it in a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of milk and three-quarters of a pint of good stock. If tmnips have been boiled in the stock so much the better. Add half a tea-spoonful of chopped onion and a little pepper and salt, and boil the rice till it is tender. Pulp it through a sieve, boil it up again, and serve. Be particularly careful that the milk does not boil over, and in order to prevent this stir it if necessary. A little of the fat left on the top of the broth, or a small slice of butter, wiU help to keep the rice from burning. Time, one hour to one hour and a half. Rice Cheesecakes. Beat four ounces of butter to cream ; add four ounces of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, two ounces of ground rice, a pinch of grated orange or lemonrind, and two well-beaten eggs. Or, simmer a pint of cream with a little mace, cinnamon, lemon, or orange till it is pleasantly flavoured. Add gradually, off the fire, two ounces of ground rice, and stir the preparation again, over the fire, till it is quite smooth. Pour it into a bowl, and when it is a little cool mix with it six wellbeaten eggs. Stir it over the fire till it is thick like curd, sweeten, and add to it two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. Or, beat four ounces of butter to cream ; add four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, four ounces of ground rice, the well-beaten yolks of six, and the whites of three eggs, and a glassful of brandy. A little lemon, orange, or almond flavouring may be added. Or, wash two ounces of rice, and boil it in plenty of water till tender. Drain it and beat it well, then put it into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pint of cream, three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, three eggs well beaten, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little lemon or almond flavouring. Stir the mixture over the fire till it is thick, then let it cool. To make the cheesecakes prepare any of the above mixtures, line some patty-pans with good pastry, three-parts fill them with the preparation, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, l d. to 2d. each. Rice, Chicken Baked in {fee Chicken Baked in Pice). Rice, Compote of. "Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and drain it. Put it into a saucepan with a large quantity of cold water, biing it gently to the boil, leave the saucepan uncovered, and boil until the grains are soft when pressed between the thumb and finger, but quite distinct. Drain the rice, and steam it in a clean saucciDan near the fire till it is dry. Spread it on a dish, sprinkle powdered sugar and cinnamon plentifully over it, and set it by for an hour. Just before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and pour upon it equal parts of light wine and water sweetened. Time to boil the rice, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for four or five jiersons. Rice Cream. Mix a large table-spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with a little milk, and add more milk to make the quantity up to half a pint. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, with the yellow part of half a lemon rubbed upon sugar, a quarter of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine, and a little piece of butter, and let it boil gently for five minutes, stirring all the time. Pour it out, and when it is almost cold stir into it a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Beat the preparation until it begins to stiffen, pour it into a mould, and put it in a cool place to set. Serve with fresh fruit, or with fruit-jeUy reduced to syrup. Time, five minutes to boil the cream. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a pint mould. Rice Cream (another way). Simmer a pint of milk with a little lemon-rind or cinnamon till it is pleasantly flavoured. Mix in a bowl four table - spoonfuls of ground rice sm_oothly -R-ith two table- spoonfuls of cold milk, and add the well-beaten yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Stir the milk when boihng into this, then boil it, and add a little sugar. Pour the rice into a mould, and set it in a cool place until wanted. Turn it out, and serve with fruit or custard. It is better made the day before it is to be used. Time to boil the cream, three minutes. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Probable cost, lOd. Rice Cream (another way). i 'ce Cream, Rice. Rice, Creamed. Take half a pound of rice, wash and pick it ; parboil and strain ; season with pepper and salt; pour over it a quart of soup and the gra\'y of veal ; let it boil two hours and pass it through a tamis. Rice Croquettes. Prepare the rice as for Gateau of Rice {see Rice, Gateau of). When it has swelled in the cream and is properly seasoned, let it cool ; then roll it into croquettes the shape of a cork. Next strew over them crumbs of bread (by which is meant that you dip them first into an omelet and next into crumbs of bread) . Roll them several times in the crumbs in what form you please, and mind they arc made a fine colour. When you have fried them of a good colour, you may glaze them on one side with pounded sugar, by using the salamander. Send up with fried parsley of a nice colour in the centre. RIC ( 744 ) RIC Rice Croquettes (another way). Take half a pound of rice, and boil it in a quart of milk till tender, add four ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs, and three spoonfuls of sugar ; let these ingredients boil a few minutes, and then leave the mixture to get cold. If liked, a spoonful of orange-flower water or grated lemon-peel may be added. When quitecold, cut the preparation into the shape and si ;e of sausages ; roll these in egg beat up, strew them with bread-crumbs, and bake of a fine brown colour. Rice Croquettes, Fowl, &c. {see Fowl and Rice Croquettes). Rice Croquettes, Plain. Wash a pound of rice in several waters. Dry it in a cloth, and put it in a saucepan with haK a pint of milk, a quart of cold water, and a little salt. Let it simmer gently until it is soft, thick, and dry, then spread it on a dish to cool. Form it into balls or corks, dip these into the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and afterwards into bread finely grated, and passed through a coarse aieve. Lay the croquettes in the frying basket, and plunge them into hot fat. Turn them over that they may be equally coloured, and fry them till they are a bright golden brown. Drain them before the fire on a napkin or on blotting-paper, and serve them very hot piled high on a dish. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for ten or eleven persons. Rice Croquettes, Savoury. Boil half a pound of rice till it is thick, soft, and dry, drain it, and, if liked, mix with it when it is taken from the fire a spoonful of grated Parmesan, a pinch of powdered mace, and a little white pepper. Let it get quite cold, then form it into balls, inserting in the centre of each ball a spoonful of any savoury mince, such as turkey, fowl, rabbit, or oysters, stewed for a few minutes in thick white sauce. Cover the mince entirely with the rice, dip the croquettes in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them as before. The rice may be boiled in milk, water, or stock, and seasoned in accordance with the mince which is to be served with it. If boiled in water a few spoonfuls of rich white sauce stirred into it when it is almost dry enough will greatly improve it. Time to fry, five to seven miautes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Croquettes, Sweet. Wash half a pound of Carolina rice, and throw it into boiling water for five minutes. Drain and dry it, and let it cool. Put it into a good-sized saucepan with the thin rind of half a fresh lemon, half a pound of loaf sugar, a small slice of butter, and three pints of milk. Let it simmer gently until the rice is soft, thick, and dry, then spread it on a dish to cool. Beat the yolks of two eggs briskly. Form the rice into the shape of corks about an inch and a half long, or into balls, then dip them first into beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs. Lay them in the frying basket, plunge them into very hot fat, and fry them, very quickly until they are brightly browned. Drain them, sprinkle white sugax over them, and serve very hot, piling them on a dish in the form of a pyramid. The flavour of the croquettes may be varied by the addition of five or six pounded bitter almonds, or by the substitution of a pod of vanilla, broken in halves, or a Uttle cocoa-nut, pounded, for the lemon-rind. Both lemon-rind and vanilla should be taken out of the rice when it is left to cool. The croquettes may be enriched also by the introduction of a spoonful of jam or marmalade into the centre of each ball. The jam must be entirely covered with the rice. It should be remembered that unless the rice is boiled till it is quite thick and dry it wiU be difficult to form it into croquettes. Time to fry, five to seven minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice, Cultivation of. The following is the mode of rice culture in Carolina : It is sowed as soon as it conveniently can be after the vernal equinox, from which period until the middle and even the last of May is the usual time of putting it into the ground. It grows best in low marshy land, and should be sown in furrows twelve inches asunder; it requires to be flooded, and thrives best if six inches imder water; the water is occasionally drained off, and turned on again to overflow it, for three or four times. When ripe the straw becomes yeUow. and it is either reaped with a sickle, or cut down with a scythe and cradle, some time in the month of September, after which it is raked and bound, got up loose, and threshed or trodden out, and winnowed in the same manner as wheat or barley. Husking it requires a different and particular operation, in a mill made for that purpose. This mill is constructed of two large flat wooden cylinders, formed like mill-stones, with channels or furrows cut therein, diverging in an oblique direction from the centre to the circumference, made of a heavj' and exceedingly hard timber, called lightwood, which is the knots of the pitch-pine. This is turned with the hand, like the conunon hand-mills. After the rice is thus cleared of the husks it is again winnowed, when it is fit for exportation. " In Europe the cultivation of rice is confined to the most southern regions. It is most extensively carried on in the plains of Lombardy, and in Valentia, in Spain. Attempts have been made to cultivate it in more northern parts of Europe, but without success. Marshy situations, where there is always the same abundance of water, are not so suitable to rice, as those in which the supply of water is regulated according to the season and the growth of the plant. " In China rice is generally sown pretty thickly on very wet land, and afterwards transplanted to the land which it is finally to occupy. The plants tiller or spread at the root very much, so that each sends up se\-eral or manv stalks. The rice grounds are carefully kepE Clear of weeds, although often so wet that a man cannot walk in them without sinking to the knees. In many parts of China, and in other warm countries it is common to obtain two crops of rice in a year." SIC (745) RIC Hice Cups. Sweeten a pint of iiiilk, and flavour with, cinnamon or lemon-rind. Mix four table-spoonfuls of ground rice smootlily ?with a little cold milk, add the well-beaten ?whites of three eggs, and mix in the boiling milk. Stir the preparation over the fire until it is thick and smooth, then pour it into tea-cups which have been soaked in cold water. Turn the rice out of these when cold, and pour xound the little shapes a custard made with the yolks of the eggs. Put a spoonful of bright-coloured jam or jelly upon each mould by way of ornament. If eaten cold, any fruit ayrup may be used instead of sauce. Time, three or four minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. E-ice, Curried. Slice an onion, fry it in hot fat till soft, and rub it through a sieve. Mix smoothly wath the pulp a table-spoonful of curry-powder, a table-spoonful of curry-paste, an oiuice of butter, three table-spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt. Have ready haK a pound of rice boiled as for curry. Put this into a saucepan with the prepared paste. IMix thoroughly and lightly, and serve very hot, piled high on a dish. In mixing the rice be careful to toss it lightly with two forks ; to use a spoon would crush it. Macaroni may be curried in the same way. Time, eight or ten minutes to mix and beat the rice. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Custard. Blanch six bitter almonds, and pound them to paste with two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, or, failing this, with a little ?water, to keep them from oiling. Mix an ounce of ground rice smoothly with a spoonful of cold milk, and add a pint of milk, haK a pint of cream, the almonds, and a little sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire until it is lukewarm, then add gradually the yolks of three eggs. Stir the custard again xmtil it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Serve in cups with blanched and chopped almonds sprinkled on the top. Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d., with cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for a httle more than a pint and a half of custard. Rice Custard (another way). Take a quart of milk and two or three ounces of ground rice. Boil the milk ??-ith the ground rice until it thickens, and sweeten with sugar. Beat up four or six eggs, and add these to the preparation when it has cooled a little ; add also an ounce of sweet almonds pounded. Stir the custard over the fire till it is nearly boiling. Rice-flLour Bread. Take one pint of rice, and boil it soft ; add a pint of cream, and then three quarts of rice flour. Put the preparation to rise in a tin or earthen vessel tiU it has risen enough. Next divide it into three parts, and bake these like other bread into three large loaves ; or scald the flour, and when it is cold mix half ?wheat-flonr or com. This bread should be raised with leaven in the usual ?way. Rice-flour Bread (another ?way). Take one quart of rice-flour, make it into a stiff pap by wetting it with hot ?water ; not so hot, however, as to make it lumpy. When the flour is 50 well wet, add bcnling water, sriy two or three quarts ; stir continually till it boils ; when it cools, put in half a pint of yeast and a little salt; knead in as much wheat-flour as will make it a proper dough for bread ; put it to rise, and when risen add a little more wheatflour. Let it staiid for half an hour in a warm place, then bake. Rice-flour, Bread Adulterated with. It is asserted that this adulteration is very frequently practised. The purpose for which rice-flour is employed is to enable the bread to absorb and retain a larger quantity of water than it would otherwise do, and so cause it to weigh more. This iniquitous purpose is accomplished through the absorbent power of rice for water. In a loaf adulterated -with rice-flour the consumer is cheated of a certain amount of nutritious wheat farina, the place of which is supplied by water. Hassall. Rice-floUT Cakes. Take a pint of softboiled rice and half a pint of milk-and-water ; add to this twelve spoonfuls of rice-flour. Di-vide the mixture into small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Rice-flour for Thickening Soups and Sauces. IMix pounded spices, salt and pepper, or sugar with rice-flour, and make it into a smooth paste by adding gradually as much cold liquor as is needed. Beat ?with the back of a wooden spoon till no lumps remain, and pour the liquor to be thickened gradually over it, boiling. Return the liquor to the saucepan, boil it again, and stir over the fire for ten minutes. Two small table-spoonfuls of rice-flour will thicken a quart of soup. Rice-flour, or Ground Rice, to Make. Wash any quantity of rice in several waters, drain, and poirnd it whilst damp to powder in a mortar, dry it, and pass it through a fine sieve. Rice-flour thus made at home, though perhaps superior to that offered for sale, yet involves a good deal of labour and trouble in its preparation. Rice-flour Puffs. Take a pint of flour, and add to it a tea- spoonful of salt and a pint of boiling water. Beat up four eggs, stir them into the mixture, put from two to three spoonfuls of lard into a pan, make it boiling hot, and fry as in the case of common fritters. Rice-flour Soup. Mix a quarter of a poimd of rice-flour very smoothly with a cupful of nicely-seasoned veal stock. Pour over it a quart of the same stock boiling hot, and stir the soup over the fire for ten minutes after it boils. A quarter of a pint of cream or milk may be added, if liked. A\'hen the cream is omitted, the addition of a dessert-spoonful of currypowder and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice will improve this soup to the taste of many. Time, ten minutes to boil after the rice-flour is added. Rice Flummery. Jlix two tablespoonfuls of ground rice to a smooth paste with cold milk, and stir into it a pint of boiling milk which has been sweetened and flavoured -? with a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and pounded. Boil the mixture, stir RIC ( 746 ) RIC constantly until it leaves the bottom of the saucepan, then pour it into a mould. When it is quite cold and stiff, turn it out, and stick all over it blanched sweet almonds cut into straws. Pour cream or thin custard round the flummery, or a sauce made with wine, lemon-juice, and sugar. If preferred, cinnamon, lemon-rind, or vanilla may be used to flavour the flummery instead of almonds. Time, about ten minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost, exclusive of the sauce, 6d. Sufficient for a pint mould. Rice Food, Savoury. The following recipe we extract from Soyer's "Charitable Cookery." The ingredients are six pounds of bones, ten quarts of water, three ounces of salt, bay-leaves, &c., two onions cut thin, half an ounce of sugar, half a pound of vegetables cut small, half a pound of oatmeal, a pound of rice, and two ounces of dripping. " Having saved the bones of the previous day, a very good food may be made thus: Take six pounds of bones, which break into small pieces, and boil in ten quarts of water for four hours, having added three ounces of salt, a small bunch of thyme, bay-leaf, and savory; put into a stewpan the fat, and two onions cut thin, half a pound of vegetables as carrots, turnips, celery, &c. cut very thin, and half an ounce of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it occasionally, add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well, moisten with two gallons of the stock from the bones, add a pound and a quarter of rice previously soaked; boil till tender, and serve." Rice for Curried Oysters and Similar Dishes. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice in two or tln-ee waters. Drain it, throw it into a saucepan of last-boihng water, and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it again, and boil it in three-quarters of a pint of milk till the grains are tender without being broken. Drain, dry it on a sieve, tossing it lightly with two forks, to separate the grains, and serve hot. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to boil the rice in the milk. Probable cost, 2 d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rice for a Pilau {sec Pilau, Eice for a). Rice, Fowl Boiled with {see Fowl Boiled, &c.). Rice, Fowl Stewed in. Take a fowl, half boil it in a moderate quantity of water, then put to it a quarter of a pound of rice with some mace. Stew the fowl till it becomes tender. Some well-seasoned veal broth added during the stewing will make the dish more savoury. Take care to stew the fowl till it becomes tender ; it must not, however, be too much stewed, or it will fall to pieces and lose its form. Rice, Fowl with {see Fowl with Rice). Rice Fritters. Boil three ounces of rice in a pint of new milk till it forms a stiff paste. Sweeten it, flavour with grated lemon-rind, or powdered cinnamon, mace, or nutmeg, and beat it up with two table-spoonfuls of cream, two eggs, and a spoonful of brandy, if liked. Let the rice get cold, and form it into balls about as large as nuts ; dip these in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry quickly. When the balls are nicely browned, pile them on a white doily, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve hot. Send wine sauce to table Avith them. Or, boil three ounces of rice in a l int of milk to a stiff paste. Sweeten and flavour it, and mix with it two well-beaten eggs, an ounce of fresh butter, and two tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. Stir it over the fire till the eggs are set, then spread it on a dish to cool. Cut it into narrow strips the length and thickness of a finger, dip these into frying-batter, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Powder sugar over them, and serve on a napkin. The batter may be made as follows: Melt an ounce of butter in half a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and cool it by adding an equal quantity of cold water. Stir in gradually four ounces of flour, and beat the mixture till it is smooth. Add the well-whisked white of an egg, and use immediately. Or, mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice smoothly with a pint of milk, and add a pinch of salt and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire till it leaves the saucepan with the spoon, then pour it out, and when cold add two tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, and a little flavouring, and beat the mixture till smooth. Fry it in spoonfuls in hot fat. \'\Tien the fritters are nicely browned, drain them on a sieve, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. Time to fry, six or se en minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Froth. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it in a pint of water until the liquor is absorbed. Pom- over the rice a quart of milk, and let it boil gently till it is tender. Stir frequently to keep it from burning. Sweeten and flavour with lemon or almond flavoiu-ing. If the flavouring is an essence, it should be di'opped upon the sugar ; if lemonrind or almonds are used, they should be boiled with the milk. Put the rice and milk when cold into a glass dish. Beat the whites of three eggs to froth, and mix with them two tablespoonfuls of powdered and sifted sugar. Lay this on the rice, and place on the top in spoonfuls a quarter of a pound of raspberry jam. Rice Froth (another way.) To one-third of a pound of rice allow one quart of nev milk, the whites of three eggs, three ounces of loaf sugar finely-pounded, a stick of cinnamon, or eight or ten drops of almond flavouring, or six or eight young laiurel-leaves, and a quarter of a pound of raspberry jam. Boil the rice in a i int of water. When the rice is absorbed, add the milk, and let it go on boiling until quite tender, keeping it stirred to prevent burning. If cinnamon or laurel-leaves are used, boil them with the milk, and remove them when the rice is sufficiently done ; if essence of almonds be used as a flavouring, it may be dropped amongst the sugar. Wlien the rice-milk is cold, put it into a glass dish or china bowl, beat up the whites of the eggs to a froth with the sugar, cover the rice with it, and stick bits of rasp RIC (747) RIC berry jam over the top. This is a cheap and an ornamental dish. Hice, Gateau of (rice cake). Prepare the rice as directed in the recipe, " Rice, Casserole of," then take some good cream, which first boil to ascertain that it will not curdle ; the quantity must be proportionate to the size of the mould you intend to use. For a quarter of a pound of rice take a quart of cream, which, however, is not always sufficient ; this depends on the rice swelling- more or less ; in this case add a little milk to it. When the cream has boiled, take the peel of a lemon, which infuse in the cream for a quarter of an hour ; take the peel out before you pour in the rice, which lay on a very slow fire till it bursts or swells ; when well swollen, add a little salt and some sugar, accordin'g to your own palate ; the sugar, however, must predominate, the salt being only intended to remedy the insipid taste that is inseparable from sweet entremets. Sugar must entirely predominate in articles for a dessert, but in entremets it is to be used moderately. "When the rice is done enough, and properly seasoned, break eight eggs, and mix the yolks with the rice ; next beat the whites, which pour gently into the preparation ; put also a good bit of butter ; then clarify about a quarter of a pound of butter, and when it is completely melted pour it into the mould ; turn the mould round that the butter may be spread equally on all sides, then turn it upside down for a moment; then put criunbs of bread into the mould, and contrive to have them likewise spread equally all over it ; now dip a small piece of bread into the butter, sprinkle some clarified butter all round the inside of the mould, and put some more crumbs of bread. Pour the rice into the mould, and put it into the oven, but mind that it must not be too hot. In an hour the cake will be baked enough. Turn it upside down in the dish, and send to table. You may sometimes put with it preserved cherries, raisins, currants, &c. Rice Gratine (M. Tide's recipe). Take two ounces of rice, which wash and pick, &c. Then let it swell in hot milk as cream, when used for entremets of this sort, would turn to butter. When the rice is well done, pound half a dozen sweet almonds and the same quantity of bitter ones ; when you have made them into a paste, rub them through a tamis, and mix them with the rice, a little sugar, and a very little salt. Then put the rice into a silver pan or porringer, or silver casserole, and leave it to gratin on a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour or more. Instead of using the lid, only cover the pan with a sheet of paper, to keep out the dust and the steam. Serve hot. If you put a cover to it, the steam will prevent its being gratined. Glaze it with pounded sugar by means of the salamander. If it is properly gratined it is a very good dish for family use. Rice, Ground (.sfc Ground Pice and Pice Plour). Rice, Ground, and Cranberry Jelly {see Cranberry and Crround Pice Jelly). Rice, Ground, Souflaee of. Take two spoonfuls of the flour, and dilute it with a Httle cream and milk ; boil them on a slow fiic, and give whatever taste you may think proper. Of course you must add butter, sugar, salt, beaten white of eggs, &c., as for all other souffles. Then send up. Rice Gruel (Invalid Cookery). Take a spoonful of ground rice, and with it thicken a pint of milk or water. Mix it in the same way as oatmeal gruel ; boil with a bit of dried orange-peel or lemon-peel and a bit of cinnamon. Boil for about ten minutes, sweeten with loaf-sugar, and add two glassfuls of port or one of brandy, as may be required. This is a good gruel for bowel complaints, but arrowroot is better. Rice in a Mould. Wash and drain a large cupful of the best Carolina rice. Put it into a saucepan with a piece of cinnamon, a bayleaf, or the rind of half a lemon, and pour over it a cupful of cold water. Let it boil, then add two cupfuls of thin cream or good milk, and let the rice simmer gently until it is quite soft. Take out the flavouring ingredients, sweeten the rice, and beat well for three or four minutes. Press it into a damp mould, and let it remain until cold and stiff. Turn it out, garnish with preserved fruit or jelly of any kind, and pour a little thin custard round it. It is an excellent plan to put the rice, milk, &c., into an earthenware jar, to put this into a pan of boiling water, and steam until done enough. When prepared in this way the rice is less likely to burn and to become discoloured than when boiled in the saucepan, but care must be taken to keep a plentiful supply of boiling water round it. It will take longer to steam than to boil it. Instead of putting the rice into a plain mould, it may be pressed into a cylindrical mould, and the centre may be filled with custard ; or it may be made into several little moulds, a little jam may be placed upon each, and custard poiired round. The rice is excellent without custard. Probable cost of rice, only when made with milk, 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Time, one hour and a haK to two hours. Rice, Indian Mode of Boiling. Wash a pound of rice, pick out the discoloured grains, and soak it for a quarter of an hour. Drain, and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling water as will thoroughly cover it. Cover the saucepan, let the rice boil for six minutes, add a quarter of a pint of milk, and boil two minutes longer. Strain the rice, and return it to the saucepan to dry. Pour over it half an oimce of butter dissolved in a spoonful of the water in which the rice was boiled. In five minutes it will be read}' for serving. In the East Indies and China the water in which rice is boiled is called congy-water, and is prescribed by medical men there as nourishing food for sick persons. It is, in fact, rice gruel. Time, about tliree-quarters of an hour. Rice Jelly. Take a quarter of a pound of rice and half a pound of loaf sugar ; boil these ingredients in a quart of water, and when they become a gelatinous mass strain off the jelly. RIC (748) RIC Add lemon- juice or wine, and let the jelly cool, then serve. Rice Jelly (another way) .? See Jelly, Eice. Rice, Lamb with [see Lamb with Eice). Rice, Lemon {see Lemon Eice). Rice Meridon. Eice meridon is on a large scale what the rissole is on a small scale, namely, a crust enclosing a stuffing or forcemeat, but the preparation is different. Take half a pound of rice, well washed and picked, boil it in a quart of milk for an hour; by this time the rice will have soaked up the milk and become swollen and tender. Care must be taken to keep it stirred, that it may not stick to the saucepan. Now stir in four ounces of butter, six whole eggs, and a little salt ; let it remain over the fire till the eggs thicken the whole ; it must be stirred all the time; then set it aside to cool ; when cold, take a form well buttered and sprinkled with bread-crumbs, which line about an inch with the cold rice ; fill the vacant space with a blanquette, a ragout, or a forcemeat prepared for fowl or fish rissole; cover the top with a thick layer of rice, and bake. When it has baked a quarter of an hour, and the rice has become nicely browned, gently loosen it with a knife from the form, put a dish on the top, and turn it out. Great care must be taken that it does not burst, which will spoil the effect. Serve with a good sauce. Rice Meringue. Boil half a pound of rice in water till almost tender, drain it, and put it into the saucepan with a pint of milk and a little sugar and flavouring. Let it simmer till it has absorbed all the milk, pour it out, and stir into it the yolks of four well-beaten eggs. Spread it on a buttered dish, beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth with a table-spoonful of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and lay this neatly and evenly over the surface. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar on the top, and bake in a moderately-heated oven till the surface is brightly browned. The meringue will be improved if any kind of fruit is boiled to pulp, sweetened, and laid in the centre of the dish, the rice being arranged in a wall round it, and the white of egg plastered over all. Time to brown the sm-face, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the fruit. Is. Suffi.cient for five or six persons. Rice Milk. Wash two table -spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it in a quart of milk till tender. Put a piece of butter the size of a pea into it, and stir occasionally to keep it from burning. Eub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavour it, boil up again, and serve. When milk is not plentiful, the rice may be softened in water, and afterwards boiled in a small quantity of milk. This is a very wholesome dish for children. A little finely-shred suet boiled with it will make it more nourishing. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rice Milk (a Spanish recipe). Take a pound of rice, wash it, and put it into a stewpan with cold water ; half cook, drain it, and complete the cooking in milk. The rice should bo kept on the fire till it is very tender but not in a pulp ; at the last moment add sugar to taste. When done enough, place the rice in a deep dish, smooth the surface, and place on the top a buttered paper ; cut out a jour in any ornamental pattern. Mix cinnamon powder with a little sugar, and sprinkle this over the paper ; remove the paper, and the pattern will be found described with sugar on the surface of the rice. Rice-Milk {see Milk-Eice and Eice Caudle). Rice, Mussels and (an Algerian recipe). Wash the mussels weU ; set them on the fire in a stewpan without any water, but with a close-fitting lid. Shake them up from time to time so as to bring them aU in turn to the bottom. They will gradually open and give out their liquor, in which, and in the steam from it, they will cook. When they are all well opened and detach easily from the shell, turn them out into a large-holed colander placed over a vessel to catch the liquor which strains, and set aside to settle. Take the mussels out of their shells, rejecting the weed attached to their inside and any little parasitical crabs within them, and put them aside. Boil rice as if for a curry, so as to be as dry as possible when done. To this put a good lump of butter and a few table-spoonfuls of the mussel liquor, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put in the mussels, beat up all together, mixing without breaking them ; or heap the warmed-up mussels in the centre of a dish, and surround them -with the seasoned rice. Rice, Norfolk {see Norfolk Eice). Rice, Nutritive Properties of. The seeds of rice contain a much less proportion of nitrogenised compounds than the other cereal grains, and particularly wheat, viz., about seven per cent. ; the quantitj- of fatty matter is also less. Much difference of opinion has prevailed in reference to the value of rice as an article of diet, some persons placing it very high. Analysis, however, clearly proves that it is the least nutritious of the cereal grasses. This difference of opinion has probably arisen from the fact that rice is seldom eaten by itself, but is partaken of usually with milk, butter, or sugar, the nutritious portions of which substances have been attributed to the rice itself. Ilassnll. The following analj-sis of rice is by Braconnot : Carolina. Piedmont Water 5-0 7-0 Husk 4-8 4-8 Gluten 3-6 3-6 Starch . 85-07 83-8 Sugar 0-3 0-05 Gum 0-7 0-1 Oil. 0-13 0-2.5 Phosphat es . . 0-4 0-4 1000 100-0 " Eice," remarks Professor Johnston in his "Chemistry of Common Life," " is remarkable chiefly for the comparatively small proportion of gluten it contains. This does not exceed seven or eight per eent. less than half the BIC (749) RIC quantity contained in oatmeal. In rice-countries it has often been noticed that the natives devour what to us appear enormous quantities -of the grain, and this circumstance is ascribed to the small proijortion it contains of the highlj nutritive and necessary gluten. Rice contains also little fat, and hence it is less laxative than the other cereal grains, or rather, it possesses something of a binding nature. It has recently been observed that, when substituted for potatoes in some of our workhouses in consequence of the failure of the potato this grain has, after a few months, produced scurvy. This may have been owing as much to the effects of sudden change of diet as to an inherent evil property in. the grain itself. Still it suggests, as many other facts do, the utility and wholesomeness of a mixed food." Rice Omelet (a Danish recipe). Take half a pound of rice and boil it till tender in a pint and a half of milk ; boil a stick of vanilla in half a pint of cream, and stir it into the warm rice with half a pound of fresh butter. Wlien cool, add the yolks of ten eggs well beaten up, some white sugar, and a very little salt. Last of aU, stir in the whites when beaten to snow ; bake the omelet rather less than an hour. Rice Panada. Take one pound of rice, previously washed, and boil it in one gallon of water for an hour; add three-quarters of an ounce of sugar and two ounces of salt ; mix with some cold water to make a thin paste, one pound of flour or oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry-powder ; add it to the rice, and boil for twenty minutes ; then serve. Rice Pancakes. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk till it is a smooth stiff paste. Turn it out, and when cool mix with it four eggs well beaten, half a pint of cream, a pinch of salt, and a little sugar and flavouring. Add four ounces of clarified butter, and beat the batter tiU it is quite smooth. Melt a little dripping or butter in a frying-pan, and fry the pancakes qiuckly. Sift powdered sugar over them, and send cut lemons or orange marmalade to table with them. If the batter is not suiBciently thick a little flour may be added to it. This will depend upon the quality of the rice. Time to fry the pancakes, five to seven minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pancakes, Ground. Mix two table-spoonfuls of ground rice smoothly with a pint of milk, and stir the mixture over the fire till it begins to thicken, but do not let it l)oil. Pour it into a bowl, and mix with it four ounces of fresh butter. When it is cool, sweeten and flavour it, and mix four wellbeaten eggs with it. Drop the preparation into hot fat, and fry the pancakes till they are brightly browned. Serve on a white napkin, sift powdered sugar over them, and send wine sauce or cut lemon to table with them. Rice Paste for Savoury Dishes. Put seasoned cutlets of veal, lamb, chicken, or game already dressed into a pie-dish, and cover the meat with a layer of rice which has been boiled to a stiff paste in milk, with a little pepper, salt, and onion for seasoning. Brush oyer with egg, and put it in the oven for a minute or two, to colour the paste lightly. A little egg mixed with the rice will make it adhere better. Rice Paste for Tartlets, &c. Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in half a pint of water till the liquor is absorbed. Squeeze it in a napkin tiU quite dry, then pound it in a mortar to a paste with a pinch of salt, a beaten egg, and an ounce of fresh butter. KoU it out till very thin, and it will be ready for use. Or rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into half a pound of ground rice. Add a table-spoonful of sifted sugar and a pinch of salt, and make the mixture into a paste with cold water. EoU it out, spread a little more butter upon it, or not, according to the richness required. Dredge flour under and over it in rolling, and it will be ready for use. Tartlets made with this pastry should be used the day they are made. Rice Pears. Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it in milk tiU quite thick, then stir in a piece of butter and a few grains of salt. Remove the rice from the fire, and put it, into a dish to cool ; add a spoonful of almondschopped fine, with a few bitter almonds, amongst them, the grated peel of a lemon,, sugar to taste, three or four eggs beat up, and one ounce of grated bread-crumbs. Form this mass into the shape of pears, dip them in egg beaten up, strew thickly with bread-crumbs, and bake. Rice, Pears "with {see Pears with Rice). Rice Pie. Put three large table-spoonfuls, of ground rice into a basin, and beat it to a paste with a pint of cold milk. Add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, four well-beaten eggs, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Pour a pint of boiling milk over the mixture, stir it well over the tire imtil the eggs are set, then let it cool. Add a glass of madeira if liked. Line a pie-dish with good pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pie (another way). Chief ingredients : a pint of rice and a fat tender fowl. First boil the fowl in enough water to cook the rice according to the rule given in the recipe, Rice, Boiled, a la Carolina {ivhich see). When the fowl is done take out the large bones, and cut it into small pieces. Spread a layer of the cooked rice on the bottom of a deep pan, and on it place a layer of the fowl, with butter and eggs mixed, and with black pepper and spices to suit. Alternate these layers until the pan is full, having a layer of rice at the top, on which pour a mixture of butter and egg, and set the whole to " browning " in an oven or on the fire; then serve in the vessel in which it was last cooked. This dish somewliat resembles in richness the celebrated jDilau of the Turks. The recipe is from the same source as that for Rice, Boiled, a la Carolina. Bice, Polish "Way of Dressing. . Mince an onion finely, and fry it in butter EIC (750) EIC until it begins to turn yellow. Mix with it two ounces of dressed ham finely shi-ed, and a quarter of a pound of rice boiled as for curry. Stir it lightly over the fire, and season with cayenne and a spoonful of grated Parmesan or Cheddar cheese. Serve hot, piled high on a dish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes after the rice is boiled. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bice, Pork Black Puddings made with {see Pork Black Puddings, &c.). Rice, Portuguese, Sweet. Wash and drain a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it in a pint and a quarter of new milk until it is thoroughly tender but dry and whole. When it is three-parts di-essed, add a little more milk, if necessary, or in its place substitute a little cream; add also four ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Stir frequently whilst it is boiling, and especially when it begins to thicken, to keep it from burning. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and two or three bitter ones, put them in a moderate oven till they are browned through, and pound them to powder. Place the rice on a shallow dish, sprinkle 'a tea-spoonful of almond-powder, or a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, over the top, and serve the preparation cold ; it will keep good for two or three days. This dish may be varied as follows : When the rice is tender, take it from the fire, and let it cool four or five minutes, then stir in with it three beaten eggs and four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Stir over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, then pour it out, and let it stand till cold. Put it in a glass dish, and sift almond-powder or cinnamon over it as before. Time to boil the rice, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. or Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice, Potato {- ee Potato Eice). Rice, Poularde with {see Poularde with Kice). Rice, Preservation of. "Eice may be kept a very long pei-iod in the rough I believe a lifetime. After being cleaned, if it be prime rice, and well milled, it will keep a long time in this climate ; only, when about to be used (if old), it requires more careful washing to get rid of the must which accumulates upon it. Some planters the writer among the nTimber prefer for table use rice a year old to the new. The grain is superior to anj other provisions in this respect. If a labourer in the gold diggings or elsewhere takes with him two days' or a week's provisions in rice, and his wallet happens to get wet, he has only to open it to the sun and air, and he will find it soon dries, and is not at all injured for his purpose. Eough rice may remain under water twentyfour hours without injury if dried soon after." Simmonds. Rice Pudding. It is not generally known that the cheap broken rice is better for puddings than the more expensive article. One table-spoonful of this well washed, the same quantity of milk and sugar, and a pinch of pounded mace, will make an excellent rice pudding. Bake very slowly. Rice Pudding, Baked. Wash six ounces of rice, and boil it gently in a little more milk than it will absorb. When it is tender without being broken, pour it out, and mix with it a j inch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a table-spoonful of finely-shred suet, or if preferred a slice of butter, and a little grated nutmeg, or any other flavouring. Let the rice cool, then stir into it one or two eggs, accoi'ding to the richness required. It wiU be very good without any. Bake the pudding in a moderately-heated oven, and serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost. lOd., if made with one egg. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pudding, Baked, Plain. Put a small tea-cupful of rice into a disli, sprinkle a little sugar upon it, and add a little grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring. Pomover it three pints of cold milk, and add a piece of fresh butter the size of a threepennypiece. Put it in a very gentle oven, and bake until it is covered with a bright brown skin. A table-spoonful of currants may be added if liked. Time to bake, thi-ee hom-s (unless the oven is very gentle, the pudding will be dry and burnt). Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pudding, Baked, Small. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a little more than a pint of milk sweetened and flavoured Avith almonds. When it is soft and thick pomit out, and mix with it three well-beaten eggs. Butter some small cups thickly, and cover the inside with candied peel cut into very thin shreds. Half fill them with the rice, and put it in very gently, not to displace the peel. Bake the puddings in a moderate oven. When done enough tura them out, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin, and send cream, custard, or wine sauce to table with them. Time to bake, about forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six pei'sous. Or boil a table-spoonful of rice in a quarter of a pint of milk till tender, then mix with it a little sugar and flavouring, a pinch of salt, and a slice of butter. Peel, core, and slice a good-sized apple, and stew it to pulp with half a spoonful of water, a small piece of butter, and a little sugar which has been rubbed upon a lemon for a minute or two. Put the apple into a small buttered dish, niLx an egg with the rice, and pour it over it. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one person. Rice Pudding, Boiled, Baron Brisse's. Wash half a pound of rice, pick out the discoloured grains, and swell it gently but thoroughly in as little milk as possible. Turn it into a bowl, and when cool add the lightly-grated rind of a fresh lemon, a pinch of salt, four ounces of powdered sugar, a slice of liutter, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Butter the inside of a copper cake-mould, and sprinkle as many finely-grated bread-crumbs over it as the butter will hold, shake off those which do not adhere, and brush a little butter lightly over those which do. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and at the last moment RIC ( 7.51 ) RIC stir them graduiiUy into tho rice. Pour the mixture gently into the mould, that the crumbs may not be displaced, put it into a very gentle oven, and let it remain until done enough. Turn out carefully, so as not to break the pudding. It ought to look like a well-browned cake. Time to bake, one hour or more. Pi-obable cost, Is. Sufficient for live or six persons. Rice Pudding, Boiled, Cheap. Wash a tea-cupful of rice, drain it, and put it into a diy, unfloured pudding-cloth. Gather the ends together, and tie it loosely, leaving room for the rice to swell to three times its size. Put it into a saucepan with plenty of fastboiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. If it is necessary to add more water, let it be boiling. When done enough turn it upon a dish, and send sweet sauce to table with it. A little may be poured round it in the dish. This pudding may be pleasantly vaiied by mixing- with the rice half a cupful of washed currants, or Sultana raisins, or prunes, or gooseberries, or apples pared, cored, and quartered. It is well to place a plate under the pudding in the saucepan, to keep it from sticking. Time to boil, one hour and threequarters. Probable cost, plain rice pudding, 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pudding, Boiled, Superior. No. 1. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it gently in a pint and a half of milk till it is soft and thick. The milk should be sweetened and flavoured pleasantly with lemon or orange-rind, or almond, cocoa-nut, or vanilla. Pour the mixture into a basin, and when cold stir into it a slice of butter, four well- whisked eggs, and a spoonful of brandy the brandy, however, may be omitted. Pour the pudding into a mould which it will quite fill, lay a buttered paper upon it, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet sauce, stewed fruit, cream, or jam. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost. Is. Suflicient for four or five persons. No. 2. Boil four ounces of rice in water tiU it is soft and thick. Put it dry into a mortar, and pound well with a slice of fresh butter, five wellbeaten yolks of eggs, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, a pound of picked and washed cmrants, and a flavouring of lemon, nutmeg, or vanilla. Beat the mLxture thoroughly, put it into a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil until done enough. Turn the pudding out carefully, and serve with sweet or \\'ine sauce. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rice Pudding, Chicken and {see Chicken and Rice Pudding). Rice Pudding, Dutch. Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour, then drain the water from it, and throw the rice into a stewpan with half a pint of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and simmer till tender. When cold, put four whole eggs well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a tea-cupful of cream (or milk where cream is scarce or dear), add three ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece of lemon-peel. Put a light puff paste or grated tops and bottoms in a mould or dish, and bake in a quick oven. Xeivls. Rice Pudding, Freneli {fce Gateau de Riz). Rice Pudding (French method). Boil the rice in a quart of now milk till it becomes of the consistency of cream and quite soft, taking care not to stir it from the time it is put on the fire until it thickens. Let it stand to cool imtil about half an hour before serving. Then beat up the yollis of four eggs, add them to the rice with a little lemon-peel pared very thin, and sweeten with sugar to taste. Set the pudding-dish upon a hot hearth, and brown the top of the pudding with a salamander. This being done, cover the browned top with a thick layer of clarified butter and pounded white [sugar. Do it over again with the salamander, until the butter and sugar are quite brown and candied. This pudding does not require to be baked it must be put on the hot hearth and prepared, as directed, in the same dish as it is sent to table in. Some add to the ingredients a little nutmeg or mace. Rice Pudding, German {see German Eice Pudding). Rice Pudding, Ground. Beat a quarter of a jjound of ground rice gradually to a smooth paste with half a pint of milk. Pour a pint of boiling milk over it, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time. When it is nearly cold stir into it three ounces of finely-shred beef suet (or, if preferred, use a slice of butter), two table-sijoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind for flavouring, and from two to four well-beaten eggs. A table-spoonful of brandy may be added if liked. Poui- the rice into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to balco, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 9d., if made with two eggs. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pudding, Iced. Wash six ounces of the best Carolina rice, and pick out the discoloured grains. Put it into a saucepan witk plenty of water, and boil it until the grains are tender without being broken. Drain it, pour over it half a pint of thick cream, and boil it again until it is very soft. Turn it out, beat well, sweeten, and flavour it with lemon, nutmeg, vanilla, or almonds. Put it into a plain mould, and freeze it until it is sufficiently firm. Serve it on a neatly-folded napkin. Tim.e to boil the rice, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Rice Pudding, Rich. AVash six ounces of rice, and boil it in as much water as will thoroughly cover it for twenty minutes. Drain it, and beat it up with a pinch of salt, a slice of fresh butter, a quarter of a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of picked and dried currants, a table-spoonful of brandy, a flavouring of nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon-rind, and four wellbeaten eggs. Pour the nuxture into a buttered RIC ( 752) RIC dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Send sifted sugar to tabic with it. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pudding, Rich (Soyer's recipe). Put half a pound of washed rice into a stewpan, three pints of milk, one pint of water, thi-ee ounces of sugar, the peel of one lemon, one ounce of fresh butter ; boil genth' for half an hour, or until the rice is tender ; add four eggs well beaten, mix well, and bake quickly for half an hour, and serve. The puddiiig may be steamed if preferred. Rice Pudding with Jam. Wash four ounces of rice, and drain it. Put it into a saucepan with a pint of milk, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Add two ounces of fresh butter, and simmer again until it is quite soft. Pour it out, sweeten and flavour with any agreeable flavouring, and beat it up with two well-whisked eggs. Turn it into a plain mould well buttered, and bake in a gentle oven. Turn it out before serving, and garnish with any bright-coloured jam spread round or upon it. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four persons. Rice Puddings, Savoviry , No. i . Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of milk till it is tender without being broken. Pour it into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, three table-spoonfuls of grated cheese,. and three eggs. Beat the pudding well, turn it into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Time to bake, about one hour. No. 2. Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of milk till it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. Turn it into a bowl, and when cool mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a dessertspoonful of shred parsley, and two moderatesized onions which have been boiled till tender and pounded with a slice of fresh butter. Jlix these ingredients thoroughly, and add three wellbeaten eggs. Turn the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Pufifs. Take a pint of rice-flour, and add enough boiling water or milk to make a batter. When cold, add four eggs well beaten, together with a tea-spoonful of salt. Drop this preparation in large spoonfuls into hot fat. Rice, Pyramids of. Boil as much rice as is required in milk until it is very soft. Beat it well to a smooth paste, and press it into small moulds of a pyramid shape, or, failing these, mould it with a spoon into small pjTamids about three inches high. Take a little rice out of the centre of these, and till the empty space with a savoury mince of any kind. Serve the pyramids on a dish, and pour rich brown gravy round them. Garnish the dish with sippets. Rice Sauce : A Substitute for Bread Sauce. Wash two ounces of rice, di-ain it, and simmer until tender in half a pint of milk I with a moderate-sized onion, half a dozen: peppercorns, and a pinct of salt. Take out the onion and peppercorns, and rub the rice through a sieve ; boil it up again -with a little more milk if it is too thick, and dissolve a small piece of butter in it. A piece of mace or half a dozen allspice may be stewed in the sauce if liked. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Savoury. No. l. Wash a pound of rice, and put it into a saucepan with three pints of water, a red herring freed from skin and bone and torn into flakes, thi-ee ounces of bacon (fat and lean together) cut into dice, a few peppercorns, and a small sprig of thyme and parsley. Let the water boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the rice simmer gently until it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. Turn it upon a dish, and serve hot. Time, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. No. 2. Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with haK a pint of good gi'avy, two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of chutney, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, the thin rind of half a lem.on, a tea-spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and half a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. Stir the rice well, and simmer gently until it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. Serve very hot. Time, three-quarters to one hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Savoury (another way). Boil two eggs lightly, add a little butter to them, and mix them with a plateful of hot boiled rice. Use this preparation with meat or rish: it will be found pleasant and agreeable food. Rice Savoury (another way). Wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into fast-boiling water for five minutes. Drain it, simmer it gently with as much nicely-flavoured stock as will cover it, and when it is tender, without being broken, stir into it a sUce of fresh butter. Mince finely the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, and mix with them two ounces of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese and half a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Mix them with the rice, and serve hot. Tinje, about half an hour to simmer the rice. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Snowballs. Wash half a pound of rice, and boil it for half an hour in as much milk or water as will cover it. Drain it, and let it stand till cold. Pare si.x apples of equal size. Scoop out the cores without breaking the fruit, and put into the empty space a Httle piece of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a little grated lemon-rind or some powdered cimiamon. Flour as many small cloths as there are apples ; spread upon each one as much rice, half an inch thick, as will cover an apple, lay the apple upon it, and tie it loosely but securely. Put the puddings into boiling water, and keep them boiling until done enough. Turn upon a dish, mc ( '53 ) BIG and serve sweet sauce, -wine sauce, or custard ?with them. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, Ud. each pudding. Sufficient for six puddings. Rice Snowballs (another way). Boil six ounces of rice in a quart of milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon, almond, vanilla, or cinnamon, according to taste. When the rice is quite tender and has absorbed the milk, turn it out, and beat it well for a few minutes, then press it into small cups, which have been allowed to lie in cold water for some time. Let it remain until cold and stiff, and make a pint of custard flavoured in the same way as the rice. Before serving, turn the rice out of the small moulds upon a glass dish, pour the custard round them, and place upon the top of each ball a spoonful of bright-colom-ed jam apricot and red-currant jam are very suitable. Time, about one hour to boil the rice. Probable cost, exclusive of the custard, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hice Solid. Beat a quarter of a pound of ground rice to a smooth paste with a little milk, and stir into it as much boiling milk or milk and cream if preferred as will make the quantity up to a quart. Sweeten the mixture, and flavour with any acceptable flavouring. A spoonful of brandy will improve it. Simmer gently, and continue stirring all the time, irntil it leaves the saucepan. When done enough, let it cool a little, and pour it into a glass dish. Before serving lay upon it a pint of cream which has been whipped to foam. [See Cream, Whipped.) Time to boil the rice, half an hour. Probalale cost, exclusive of. the cream, 7d. Suflicient for five or six persons. B.iC6 Souffle?. Prepare the rice as for Gateau de Kiz {see Rice, Gateau of), only keep the rice rather more limpid, and put in the whites of two more eggs ; that is to say, in a rice cake you put eight yolks and as many whites, whereas in a soufilee you put only si.x j-olks and eight whites, and a little more butter to determine the soufilee. To flavour the soufilee, use either lemon-peel, vanilla, orange, orangeflower, noyeau, maraschino, coffee, &c. Rice Soufflee (another way). Wash six table-spoonfuls of rice, and throw it into quicklyboiling water for five minutes. Drain it, and put it into a clean saucepan with a quart of milk, a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and any flavouring that may be liked, such as orange, lemon, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, orange-flower water, rose-water, or any liqueur. If the rice is not sweet enough to suit the palate, a little more may be added, but it should be remembered that the less sugar used the lighter \vi\\ be the soufflee. Let the rice boil, put the lid on the .saucepan, and simmer vcrj slowly until it is tender and has absorbed the milk. Let it cool a little, then add, one at a time, the wellwhisked yolks of six eggs. Warm and butter a soufflee-dish or tin which the preparation will half fill, or, failing these, use a deep pie-dish or thin earthenware basin. Wliisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth. Mix them lightly with the rice, and bake the soufflee at once after they are added. In order to ascertain whether the soufflee is sufficiently baked, run a straw into the centre of it. If it is set throughout, it is done enough. It should be baked in a quick oven. Sift sugar over the top, tie a hot napkin round the tin, and serve immediately. The success of a soufflee depends on the ingredients being well beaten, frothed, and mixed on their being put into the dish ; on their being baked immediately afterwards; on the sufficient temperature of the oven; and on the rapid transfer of the soufilee from the oven to the dining-room. Time to bake, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. lOd. Sufficient for six ur seven persons. Rice Soufflee made with Ground Rice. Mix three table-spoonfuls of ground rice to a smooth paste, add gradually as much more as will make the quantity up to one pint, and a pinch of butter about the size of a walnut. Stir the mixture over the fire for about a quarter of an hour, or until it thickens, then pour it out, and when it is a little cool add some sugar and any fiavouring that may be liked. The less sugar used the lighter will be the soufflee. Add, one by one, the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and just before the soufflee is put into the oven, stiiin the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Proceed according to the directions given in the preceding recipe. Bake the soufflee in a brisk oven, and serve as quickly as possible after it is taken out. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Soup. Take half a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice, picked clean, and washed in two or three different waters till no smell or dirt remain. Blanch it in boiling water, and drain it. Then take some rich broth, season it well, throw the rice in and let it boil, but not so as to be too much done, for then it breaks and does not look weU. Rice Soup (a Danish recipe). Take half a pound of rice, pick and scald it, then put it into five pints of boUing water. When it begins to thicken, add the peel of a lemon and a quarter of a pound of raisins. When the soup has boiled enough, beat up the yolks of four eggs in a gill of wine, the juice of two lemons, and white or brown sugar to taste, which stir lightly in. Enough for seven persons. Rice Soup, Cream of (??? Cream of Eice Soup). Rice Soup, Italian. Wash four ounces of rice, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, a cupful of stock, and a seasoning of salt and white pepper. Let it simmer gently until it is tender. Cut two large turnips into small pieces, and fry these in butter till they are lightly browned. Drain the fat from them, and stew them in about a pint of stock. Add the boiled rice, and serve. Send two table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan to table with the soup. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, exchisive of the stock, 9d. Sufficient for two or three pei'sons. RIO (754) RIG Rice Soup, Made witli Fresh Meat. - Take one pound of the knuckle of veal, one pound of g-ravy-becf, half a pound of lean ham, and any bones and trimmings that may be at hand. Cut the ham into dice and the meat into pieces an inch square. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in the ham, then the rest of the meat, and add two carrots, two onions, each one stuck with one clove, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents steam over a gentle fire until the gravy flows from the meat. Pour this gravy out, and shake the saucepan over the fire till the meat is brown, pour ever it three pints of boiling water, and let it .stew gently until the liquor is reduced to a quart. Sldm carefully, strain, and then add it to the gravy. Put into it two ounces of rice which have been boiled in water till tender, drained, and dried. Season the soup Avith pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Soup (suitable for childi-en, or sick persons). Wash four ounces of rice in three or four waters, drain it, and boil it gently with two quarts of beef or veal stock until it is tender without being broken. Season with a little salt and white pepper, and if the stock is already seasoned, be careful that it is not served too salt, owing to evaporation. If clear soup is wanted, the rice can be boiled separately in water until the grains are tender without being broken-, then dropped into the clear souj , and allowed to remain a few minutes without simmering, or the rice may be boiled in thin, nicely-flavoured stock, strained, and put into the soup-tureen, the clear soup being then poured over it. Time, one hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rice Soup, Superior. Wash well four ounces of rice, and boil it in two quarts of veal stock till tender, drain it, and put the stock with half the rice back into the stewpan, rub the rest through a fine sieve, then stir it into the soup, and let it boil up. Beat the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of cream, take the soup off the fire for two minutes, then add the eggs and cream gradually, and stir the soup unceasingly for thi-ee or four minutes until it is thoroughly hot, but it must not boil again or the eggs will curdle. Time, two hours. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Rice Soup, Royal. Put two fowls with a large knuckle of veal into a stock-pot ; fill it with beef stock, skim it, and add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, half a head of celery, and two leeks ; boil for five hours, take off all the fat carefully, and strain the consomme through a napkin ; put half of it into a middle-sized stewpan with six ounces of Carolina rice washed and blanched, simmer it for two hours, then break it with a wooden spoon, and add the rest of the consomme; whilst boiling, and at the time of serving, put a spoonful into a puree of fowl, prepared in the usual manner, then recommence this operation twice, pour the puree thus made thin into the tureen, and on it the remainder of the rice by degrees, that it may I be well mingled for if you pour the rice in quickly, you run the risk of decomposing or curdling the puree of fowl, which ought to be rendered smooth in mingling the soup. Cart'ine. Rice Soup, White. Wash a quarter of a pound of best Carolina rice in two or three waters, throw it into fast-boiling water, and keep it boiling for five minutes. Drain it on a sieve, and put it into two quarts of nicelyflavoured white stock, also boihng. Let all simmer gently together until the rice is tender. Add three-quarters of a pint of thick cream, season Avith salt, cayenne, and pounded mace ; simmer a minute or two longer, and serve. Time, one hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rice, Spanish way of Dressing. Boil half a pound of rice as for curry. If liked, broth can be used instead of water. Dry it well, and frj it with a slice of butter till it is lightly browned. Stir into it two large ripo tomatoes, or failing these a table-spoonful of tomato sauce and a spoonful of grated cheese ; season the preparation with white pepper. Work it lightly with two forks, and serve it, piled high in a hot dish, with slices of ham, bacon, or German sausage round it : failing these, use dried haddock, herring, or smoked salmon in strips. Time, a few minutes to brown the rice. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive of the meat or fish round the rice. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rice Stew Soup. Take four pounds of good ox-cheek. Wash and soak it for twelve hours in cold water, then dry it well, put it into a stewpan with three quarts of water, four onions, a bunch of herbs, a sliced carrot, two or three sticks of celery, and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and cayenne. Simmer the meat gently for two hours, then take it out, cut it into i)ieces convenient for serving, and return it to the saucepan with six ounces of wellwashed rice. Simmer all together till the rice is tender. If liked, this soup may be thickened with a little curry powder, or with a little brown thickening, and cow-heels may be used instead of ox-cheek in its preparation. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Rice Stuffing for Sucking Pig. Pice is frequently used as a stuffing for sucking pig, and also for breast of veal. To prepare it, boil the rice tiU it is quite tender, and dry it perfectly. Mix with it a fourth of its quantity in split peas, also boiled till soft and dried ; flavour the mixture with pepjjer and salt and a little finely minced ham, beat it well, and it will be ready for use. Rice Tart. Wash a small tea-cupful of rice, and sinuner it with a quart of milk until it is tender. Beat it well, and mix with it a pinch of salt, a little sugar, a flavouring of nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon, and three eggs Line a pie-dish with good pastry, spread the rice upon it, and bake in a quick oven. Before serving, sprinkle the surface with sifted sugar. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. mc ( 755 ) RIC Rice Turban. Prepare the rice as in the recipe, Eice, Casserole of. Cut some apples into quarters, and stow them in syrup. Take particular care that the quarters are kept whole. Dish the rice ; put a gallipot in the centre, to form a vacancy, into which you are afterwards to pour a vanilla cream. Dress the rice round the gallipot, and level it with the back of a spoon. Ne.xt place the apples round the rice, till j'ou have reached the summit of it, and put the whole into the oven, but only leave it there time enough to dry up the syrup which sticks round the apples. Next decorate with sweetmeats of different colours, such as greengages, apricots, and cherries ; and when you are ready to send up, remove the gallipot, a-nd fill the vacancy with the vanilla eream. Rice, Varieties of. What is known in England as cargo rice is a Bengalese variety, having a reddish cast and rather coarse-looking. The unusual size and sweetness of the grain, however, cause it to be esteemed by the Hindoos above all other kinds. The red rice, sometimes seen in American shipments scattered among the white grains, is not a distinct variety, like that of the Bengalese, but is the result of careless cultivation. Seeds of the whitest kinds, allowed to fall into the earth at harvest, and to lie there all the winter, will mature the next year into red rice. Its presence is regarded as a blemish. The small variety known as Patna, and remarkable for the slenderness and whiteness of the grain, is no doubt the best known and most highly esteemed in Europe of all the Eastern importations. The Carolina rice, acknowledged to be the best in the world, is cultivated in its greatest perfection at Wacamaw, near Georgetown, South Carolina, and on the Savannah and Altamalia rivers ; but can be produced in equal perfection along the tideways of the Floridas, as well as of Carolina and Georgia. Of the many sub-varieties in favour with American rice-planters the two most highly prized are the white and the golden, so called from the coloiuof their chaff. Both kinds produce abundant crops, and turn out beautiful grains ; but the white is preferred by some planters as being more prolific, and better suited to a highland or semi-highland culture ; and the golden is preferred by others as -better suited to tide-water culture, and as f m-nishing more pearly gTain. . H. Lamprey. In India the varieties of rice arc verj' numerous. No less than one hundred and sixtyone are enumerated in Moon's " Catalogue of Ceylon Plants" as being known in that island. But the finest rice in the world is that raised in North and South Carolina, in the United States, where the prevalence of swampy lands and a rich vegetable soil renders its cultivation easy and very profitable. The rice of Carolina is remarkable for its pure white colour and large size, and it is most valued as an article of food. Rice Waffles. Boil a quarter of a pint of lice in a very little water till it is tender. Drain it, and beat it weU while hot with an ounce of butter. Add six ounces of flour, the wcUbeaten yolks of four eggs, and as much milk as will form a batter a little less than a pint will be required. Beat the whites of the eggs till firm, and add them to the batter at the last moment. Be sure to beat all well together, and to make the batter lighter pour it backwards and forwards from a good height for a few minutes. Make the waffle-irons hot, rub them over in every part with dissolved butter, and put a large spoonful of the mixture into them for each cake. Close the iron, and set it over a stove, or over hot coals, turn it over at the end of six or eight minutes, then open it, and if the cake is nicely coloured and leaves the irons easily it is done enough. When pouring in the batter be careful to leave room in the iron for rising. Time to bake the waffles, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, for this quantity. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rice Waffles (another way). &e Waffles, Rice. Rice-Water. Put seven pints of water to boil, add to it two ounces of washed rice, two ounces of sugar, and the peel of two-thirds of a lemon; boil gently for three-quarters of an hour ; the liquid will reduce to five pints ; strain through a colander, and the rice-water will be ready. The rice may be left in the beverage or made into a pudding, or by the addition of a little sugar or jam it will be found very good for either children or invalids. Soyer. Rice, Water. The water rice {Zizania aquatka) is abundant in Wisconsin and other parts of North America, on the swampy margins of streams in shallow water. A gently-flowing current, where the water is from two to six or eight feet deep, is the most favourable habitat for this plant, which forms an important article of food among the Indian tribes. They obtain it bj' paddling a canoe among the plants, when, with a hooked stick, they draw the stems over the canoe and beat off the grain. The harvest only lasts for a very few days, as, when ripe, the grain is shaken off by the slightest touch, and if the wind should blow hard for a day or two the rice is all lost. It is gathered both " in the milk" and after it is mature. The Indians take it to their camp, and put it into pans, when it is roasted until the husks become dry and reddish ; they then place it in sacks, and pound it by striking on the outside so as to separate the grain from the husk. It is winnowed, and is then ready for use. Those who have tried it prefer the Zizania to the ordinary rice of comjuerce. Gardener's Chronicle. (See also Rice, Canadian.) Rice Water, for Invalids. Wash two ounces of rice in several waters, boil it gently for two hours and a half, and stir frequently. Strain it through a fine sieve, and rub through the glutinous part, but not that which is firm. WTien the liquor is cold it is ready for use. A table -spoonful of raisins is sometimes boiled with the rice. If the water is wanted quickly, boil three ounces of rice for half an hour in a quart of water. EIC ( 756 ) hi:-? Rice, Wholesomeness of. " Rice," says Dr. Graham, "is a nutritious and wholesome vegetable. It is easy of digestion when taken in conjunction with some condiment, as cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and the like ; these additions make it more palatable as well as more wholesome, and obviate its tendency to confine the bowels. It is almost the only food of the inhabitants of India a sufficient proof of its mild, nutritive, and wholesome properties. Ale should never be drunk after rice and milk, as it is almost ccrtam of producing colic or some other disorder of the bowels." Rice was held in great esteem by the ancients, they considered it a food very beneficial to the chest; therefore it was recommended in cases of consumption and to persons subject to spitting of blood. Rice contains about eighty-five parts of starch in the hundred, and ha -ing no stimulating matter in it to quicken digestion, remains longer in the stomachs of some persons than other farinaceous food. In India and other Eastern countries, where it constitutes the principal food of the inhabitants, it is usually taken with curry-powder, peppers, and other stimulating condiments, .in order to assist digestion. Slixed with other food it is wholesome, and well adapted for delicate stomachs. Rice-water is an excellent demulcent drink when there is irritation of the bowels, dysentery, or diarrhoea. Ground rice and milk, flavoured with orange-peel and sweetened, is a valuable article of diet during convalescence. Imray. nice with Pears. Wash six ounces of rice, and put it into a saucepan with a quart of milk, the thin rind of a lemon, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a small nut. Stir the rice till it boils, then draw it from the fire, and let it simmer gently until it is quite tender and has absorbed the milk. Take it from the fire, and beat it well for three or four minutes, press it into a damp mould, and set it in a cool jjlace to stiffen. Peel and halve a dozen or more ripe pears. Put these into a saucepan with the strained juice of two lemons, a small cupful of water, and half a pound of sugar. Let them simmer till they are tender without being broken. Lift them out gently, and lay them on a dish to cool. Boil the syrup until it is thick, and, if liked, dissolve in it one or two spoonfuls of apricot marmalade. When the rice is to be served, turn it out of the mould, lay the baked pears round it, pour the sjTup over, and garnish the rice prettily with angelica, or with strips of lemon-rind laid over it, or with slices of lemon laid upon it. I\Iany cooks stir into the rice after it has boiled four weUbeaten eggs and a slice of butter, and beat it over the fire till it is thick, but it wUl be excellent without these if only the rice is simmered till it is dry, and afterwards beaten tiU it is smooth. Time, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. exclusive of the apricot marmalade. Sufficient for five or six persons. Riclimond. Eel Pie. Skin, draw, and cut into two-inch lengths two good-sized eels. wash them in salt and water, and dry them in a cloth. Put them into a stcwpau with an. ounce and a half of butter, two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, one onion, or a small clove of shallot finely shred, a little pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, an inch of lemon-rind, a glass of sherry, and as much stock made from bones as will barely cover the eels. Bring the sauce slowly to the boQ, skim it, and as it rises in the pan lift out the pieces of eel, and lay them in a pie-dish. Strain the sauce, thicken it with two ounces of flour kneaded with two ounces of butter, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the eels in the dish. Place on the top the hard-boiled yolks of three or four eggs. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, cover with the same, brush over with egg, ornament the pie, and bake in a well-heated oven. It may be served either hot or cold. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for five or six persons. V Richmond Puddings. Bake three large apples. Scrape out every particle of pulp free from skin and core, and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg or rasped lemonrind, add half a pint of cream or milk, the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Mix thoroughly. Butter some cups, half fill them with the mixture, sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over the top, and bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, turn the puddings out carefully upon a hot dish, sift powdered sugar over them, and send a light custard to table with them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, if made with milk, Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ring Dish for Australian Meat {see illustration accompanying the article on AustraUan Meat). Rings, Candied, for Garnishing {see Orange and Lemon Candied Rings for Garnishing) Rings of Pastry, Ornamental. Roll out some puff paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in rounds an inch and a half in diameter, and cut out the centre of these with a smaller cutter, half an inch in diameter. Brush the rings over with beaten egs , shake finelj'-powdered sugar over them, and bake them on a slightly-buttered bakingsheet in a gentle oven till they are lightly browned. Cover with sugar icing, put them in a cool oven or in a screen to dry, and ornament with dots or folds of bright-coloured jelly. Or blanch some almonds, and chop them small. Put them in a bowl, and beat them up with a little white of egg and powdered sugar; brush the rings -wath egg, and strew the chopped almonds over them. Bake in a gentle oven, and a minute or two before they are taken out put a preserved cheiTy, well drained from the syrup, in the centre of the ring. When lightly coloured take out the rings, and put them on a wire sieve to cool. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. niN (757) BIS Rink Cake. Take three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, beat it up, and add to it three-quartei's of a pound of sugar, one pound of flour, the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of four beaten to a snow. When these ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, butter a sheet of white paper, and spread the paste upon it rather thinly; have ready some almonds blanched and sliced ; lay them upon the paste in rows, strewing currants between; strew sifted sugar over the whole. When the cake is baked of a light-brown colour, cut it into squares while warm, in such a way that there will be almonds and currants on each square. Remove the paper quickly. Risotto. This is an elegant Italian dish, the priucipal ingredient of which is rice. Shred onions into a frjdng-pan with plenty of butter, and fry till the onions become very brown and communicate their colour to the butter. Run the butter off, and add to this some rich broth, slightly flavoured with saffron ; thicken the whole with well-boiled rice, and serve up as a pottage, instead of soup, at the beginning of dinner. Rissables. Chop veal and ham finely together, add a few bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little parsley and lemon-peel or shallot. Mix these ingredients together with the yolks of two eggs well beaten. RoU the preparation into shape like a flat sausage, or into the shape of pears, sticking a bit of horse-radish in the ends to represent the stalks ; egg over each, and grate bread-crumbs upon them. Fry to a brown colour, and serve on crisp fried parsley. Rissoles. Rissoles are composed of savoury mince of any kind enclosed in pastry and fried. They may be served with gravy, or they may be sent up dry on a neatly-folded napkin. The latter is the more usual manner. They are chiefly useful as furnishing a convenient and elegant mode of using the remains of colddressed meat, game, or fish. Patties if fried instead of baked will become rissoles. Rissoles should be thoroughly drained from fat either on a sieve or on blotting-paper before being sent to table. The difference between a rissole and a croquette is that a rissole is always fried in pastry, a croquette is egged, breaded, and fried. Rissoles, Beef. Take one pound of colddressed beef. Cut it into thin slices, remove the gristle, and chop the meat finely. Mix with it a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, three tahle-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a blade of mace finely pounded, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the whole together with a beaten egg. If it is not sulficiently moist with this, add a httle meat gra\y and a spoonful of ketchup. Roll out the trimmings of puff paste to the thickness of a florin. Place small balls of mince, two inches from the edge and one inch distant from each other, moisten the pastry round the meat with water, and fold it over the balls. Stamp the rissoles out in rounds, and press the edges securely together. Dredge lightly with flour, and then fry in fat, not too hot, till they are browned. Drain them, and serve on a napkin garnished with parsley. Or prepare the mince as above. Roll out the pastry, and stamp it in rounds two inches in diameter. Place a little ball of meat in the centre, moisten the edges of the pastry, draw it up over the meat, and pinch it securely. Or stamp out an equal number of rounds. Place a little ball of meat upon one round, moisten the edges, and lay another round upon it. Press the edges of the pastry securely together, and flute them with the back of a knife. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Pi'obable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Rissoles (Careme's recipe). Take threequarters of a pound of Brioche jiaste. Roll it out very thin, and place upon it about two inches from the edge and one inch from each other small balls about the size of a nutmeg of any savoury mince. Brush the pastry round the mince with beaten egg, fold it over the meat. Press it round each ball, stamp out the rissoles with a pastry-cutter two inches in diameter, taking care to keep the mincemeat ball exactly in the centre of each one. Lay the rissoles on a hot plate for two or three minutes to make them rise, and fry in butter or lard, not too hot, till they are brown. They will become quite round. Drain them from the fat, and serve very hot. Rissoles, Cold Mutton, Chicken, Tvirkey, Veal, &e. Prepare the mince, and proceed as in the last recipe, substituting mutton, veal, or poultry, for the beef. With veal and poultry, the weight of a fourth part of the meat in lean ham, tongue, or bacon, may be added to the mince, and the flavouring may be varied to suit the palate. Rissoles, Gravy for {see Gravy for Rissoles). Rissoles of Calves' Brains. Take two sets of brains ; let them soak for some time in warm water; skim them carefully, and boil them a quarter of an hour in salt and water ; let them drain ; then fry them in four ounces of butter. When they have lost their fluidity, sprinkle them with a spoonful of flour, fry them again a little, and pour over as much broth as will convert them into a thickish fluid; beat up the yolks of three eggs and add to it, that it may become firm and thick; season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; and lastly, add two ounces of beef marrow chopped fine, and set it aside to get cold. Roll out puff paste, stamp it in forms with a cutter, rub the edges with yolk of egg, put a spoonful of this forcemeat in the centre ; lay a piece of the samesized paste over, pinch down the edges in the shape of a haK-moon or any other shape you may fancy ; dip them in egg beat up, sprinkle them thickly with bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot lard. Serve them quite hot ; when you take them out of the pan, throw a handful of fresh-picked parsley into the hot lard ; stir it about gently, and when it ceases crackling, take it out, at which moment it will be of a fine green and crisp ; sprinkle it with salt, and strew it over the rissoles. A. von Kochhcim. ms ( 758) ROA Rissoles, Pancake. Make some batter as for pancakes. It will be better if made two or three hoiu-s befoi-e it is wanted. Mince finely some cold-dressed veal, and v.nth. it a quarter of its weight in lean ham or tongue. Season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. Fry a thin pancake in the usual way. When it is brown on the upper side turn it over, and put into the middle of it two table-spoonfuls of the minced veal. Fold it over at the ends, and at each side, that the meat may not escape, and fry the rissoles thus made till they are lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve very hot. Time to fry the rissoles with the meat, three or fouiminutes. Sufficient, five of six for a dish. Probable cost, 4d. each. _ Rissoles, Rice. Boil half a pound of rice till soft and diy. Beat it well, and mix with it the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of good white sauce, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Beat the mixture over the fire till the eggs are set, then turn it upon a dish. When cold, mould a spoonful of it in a teacup to a hollow round form, put into the centre any kind of savouiy mince, and cover with the rice. Dip the rissoles in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, dish them neatly on a napkin, and serve very hot. Time to beat the rice over the fire with the eggs, five minutes. To fry the rissoles, five or six minutes. Probable cost,- 3d. each. Sufficient, eight or ten for a dish. Rissoles, Savoury. Mince very finely any white meat remaining from dressed poultry, and mix with it a fourth of its weight in ham or tongue. Season with popper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and add a fourth part of grated bread-crumbs. Bind the mince together with beaten egg. Instead of pastry, make a forcemeat as follows : With four ounces of finelygrated bread-crumbs mix a quarter of an ounce of minced lemon-rind, a quarter of an ounce of jjowdered savoury herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. With the fingers work into the bread two ounces of sweet butter, and the unbeaten yolk of an egg. The forcemeat ought to be sufficiently firm to roll out on a floured board to the thickness of the third of an inch. KoU out the forcemeat, stamp it into rounds, lay upon one of these a small ball of minced chicken, put another forcemeat roimd upon it, and repeat until the meat is used. Close the edges securely, dip the rissoles in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in. hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Rissoles, Sweet. Roll and stamp the pastry in small rounds, as for ordinary rissoles. Lay in the centre a spoonful of jam or marmalade, put a round of pastry on the top, and press the edges securely. Brush the rissoles over with egg, lay a little ring of pastry on the top of each, brush over with egg again, and bake on a baking-tin in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is set, take the rissoles out. sift finely-powdered sugar over them, and return them to the oven for a few minutes. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. River Crab. This a genus of crab inhabiting fresh water. One species the grancio of the Italians is very common in the south of Europe, and is often met with figured on Greek medals. In ancient times it was highly esteemed as an article of food, and it is much thought of even at the present day, being commonly eaten in Italy diuring the season of Lent. It frequents muddy lakes and slow rivers, and in some it absolutely swarms. Its captors bring it to market tied on strings, care being taken that the crabs are placed at such distances as to prevent their fighting and mutilating one another. Roach.. The roach is a fish which inhabits shallow and gently-flowing streams. Its flesh is white, but turns red when boiled ; and its compactness is thought by many to have given rise to the proverb, "As sound as a roach." It is more likely, however, that this is derived from the French }-ocki;, or " rock." Roach is in season from September to March. It seldom weighs more than a pound and a half. It is best fried. Roach, Fried. Wash the fish, dry them thoroughly with a soft cloth, dredge flour lightly over them, and fry them in hot fat till the flesh leaves the bone easily. Drain, and serve them on a hot dish, garnished with parsley. Send anchovy sauce to table with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, throe or foui' for a dish. Probable cost, uncertain, roach being seldom sold. Roast Meat, Gravy for. When the meat is done, lay that end which is least done in a clean hot dish before the fire, then pour all the fat out of your dripping-pan through a hair sieve into your stone jar, and put it away , then wipe out of your pan any dust or cinders that may be [in it with a clean dish-cloth, and for a joint of about ten pounds pour a small-sized cupful of boiling water with a little salt in it into your dripping-pan, and with this water and your basting-ladle rub all the baked brown gravy off the pan for nearly all the real gravy which drops from the meat wiU be baked to the dripping-pan. When you have rubbed and washed all the brown oft" the pan, mix it well together, and strain it through a iine hair sieve into a butter saucepan, simmer it gently over the fire till it is quite hot but not to boil, pour it over the meat, and serve it up. You will find it a good nice brown gravy, better than is frequently made with half a pound of gravy-beef. liend. Roast Meat, Gravy for (another way). See Gravy for Roast Meat. Roast Meat, Wholesomeness of. Roasting is an excellent method of rendering food wholesome and nourishing, as without making any great change in the chemical properties of meat, it renders it more tender, sapid, and highly flavoured, whilst there is not so ROA (759) BOA much dissipation of its nutritive juices as in baking-, boiling, and some other processes. " Koasting," says Dr. Kitchiner, " preserves the nutritive part of flesh from dissipation in a greater degree than boiling ; and it has been remarked by an observant author (Dr. Willich) that ' one pound of roast meat is, in real nourishment, equal to two or thi'ee pounds of boiled meat.' It ought, however, to be noticed that the fat of meat treated in this way has undergone some degree of chemical decomposition from its exposure to heat, and is in consequence more oppressive to dehcate stomachs, and gene- rally less salutary than boiled meat." By the process of roasting the fibrine is corrugated, the albmnen coagulated, the fat liquefied. As the operation proceeds, the surface becomes first brown and then scorched ; and the tendinous parts are rendered softer and gluey. Care should always be taken that the meat should not be over-done, nor ought it to be under-dressed ; for although in such a state it may contain more nutriment, yet it will be less digestible, on account of the density of its texture. This fact has been satisfactorily proved by the experiments of Spallanzani ; and Mr. Hunter observes, that " boiled and roasted and even putrid meat is easier of digestion than raw." Animal matter loses more hy roasting than by boiling : by the latter process mutton loses one-fifth and beef one-fourth; but by roasting, these meats lose about one-third of their weight. In roasting the loss arises from the melting out of the fat, and the evaporating of the water ; but the nutritious matter remains condensed in the cooked solid, whereas in boiling the gelatine is partly abstracted. Roast are, therefore, more nutritious than boiled meats. Dr. Faris. Hoasting. To roast meat is to cook it by exposing it to the direct heat of the fire, and the object is to preserve the nutritive qualities and retain the juices, while at the same time the joint is sufficiently di-essed. The first thing to attend to is the fire. This should be made up some time before, so that when the meat is put down to it it may be bright, strong, and clear. Cinders and dust should be thoroughly cleared out at the bottom, some moderate-sized . knobly pieces of coal should be packed closely together at the front, and cinders should be mixed with a little damped coal-dust behind. This will help the fire to retain its heat longer, besides throwing the heat forward. One or two pieces of coal should be put on gently every now and then, so doing away with the necessity of making up the fire again while the meat is before it. The grate should be sufficiently lai'ge to cover the joint, and leave an inch or two at each side. It should be remembered that it is impossible to have roast meat in perfection unless the joint has been hung a proper length of time before being laid down to the fire. \Tiatever apparatus may be used for suspending the joint before the fire, care should be taken that it is kept scrupulously clean, and that the hook is not pushed through the pi-ime juicy parts of the meat. A screen should be used if possible, as it tends so much to keep in the heat. The excellence of a roast depends to a very great extent upon the amount of basting it receives. The more it is basted, the better it will be. A little extra dripping may be use d at first until the fat melts ; but when it has once begun to drop freely it should poured oil' every now and then, the quantity only which is required for basting being retained in the pan. I'his is to preserve the dripping itself, as it is much better if not allowed to burn. If the joint be very fat, a piece of paper may be fastened over the fat for the first hour. As to the position of the meat before the fire, "doctors disagree." According to Baron Liebig, who is decidedly an oracle, the same principle ought to be observed in roasting as in boiling, that is, the surface should be hardened at once by placing the meat near the fire, and when the escape of the juices has thus been stopped, the meat should be drawn back and slowly finished. The almost universal custom is to jjlace it some distance from the fire at first, baste it liberally, and when it is haK done, and has been gradually well-heated throughout, draw it nearer. The advantage of the latter plan is that it does not require so much time as the former. Besides which great judg-ment is necessary, if Liebig' s directions are observed, or the meat wiU be either sodden or burnt. The escape of the juices may be prevented by the meat being well basted directly it is put down with wanned dripping. The time required for roasting depends so much upon circumstances that no exact rule can be given. The general rule is a quarter of an hour to the pound, and a quarter of an hour over ; but it must be borne in mind that fat meat takes longer than lean ; and thick meat, such as legs and fillets, longer than thin, such as loins or breasts. White meat, such as pork, and the flesh of younganimals, such as veal and lamb, should always bo thoroughly dressed ; while mutton and beef is often preferred rather underdone. When meat is just killed, it must be roasted longer than when it has been well kept, and it needs less of the fire in sum.mer than in winter. Beef needs more cooking than nmtton. However, it may be known that a joint is nearly done enough when the steam draws freely to the fire ; also when the flesh yields readily and offers no resistance when it is pressed with the fingers. If a joint is sufficiently cooked without being properly browned, it should be put nearer to the fire for a few minutes. If the meat is liked frothed, a little flour should be dredged lightly over it when it is three-parts done. Just before it is served, a little salt may be sprinkled on it. A very small quantity of gravy should be put into the dish with it. More can be sent to table in a tureen. Roasting, Dr. Kitchiner's Observations on. The followmg practical remarks are extracted from the " Cook's Oracle" of this famous gourmet. In some respects they may be slightly out of date, but in others they are for all time, and deserving of the most careful attention. Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief cardinal virtue of the kitchen : the first preparation for roasting is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and water nothing else. When it EOA (760) EOA has teen well scoured with this, dry it with a clean cloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the meat is drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little cleaning will be required. The less the spit is passed through the meat the better ; and before you spit it joint it properly, especially necks and loins, that the carver may separate them more easily and neatly. Small famiUes have not always the convenience of roasting with a spit, a remark upon roasting with a string may therefore be necessary. Let the cook, before she puts down her meat to the fire, pass a strong skewer through each end of the joint; by this means, when it is about half done, she can with ease turn the bottom upwards ; the gravy will then flow to the part which has been uppermost, and the whole joint will be delicioiisly gravy-full. A bottle-jack is a valuable instrument for roasting. A Dutch oven is another very convenient utensil for isoasting light joints, or warming them up. Roasting should be done by the radiant heat of a clear glowing tire, other%vise the meat is, in fact, baked. All your attention in roasting will be thrown away if you do not take care that yoirr meat, especially beef, has been kept long enough to be tender. Make up your fire in time ; let it be proportioned to the dinner to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end than the thing to be roasted or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice and brown. A cook must be as careful to proportion her fire to the business she has to do as a chemist the degi-ee of heat sufficient for dressing the different s?rts of food ought to be attended to with the utmost precision. The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin wiU. parch up a lighter joint. From half an hour to an honr before you begin to roast, prepare the fire by putting a few coals on, which will be sufficiently lighted by the time you wish to make use of your fii-e ; between the bars and on the top put small or large coals, according to the bulk of the joint, and the time the fire is required to be strong ; after which throw the cinders (wetted) at the back. Never put meat down to a burnt-up fii-e, if you can possibly avoid it ; but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a considerable distance, and allow a little more time. Preserve the fat by covering it with paper, and then tie it on with fine twine pins and skewers can by no means bo allowed ; they are so many taps to let out the gravy ; besides, the paper often starts from them and catches fire, to the great injuiy of the meat. If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should be little and brisk ; when you have a large joint to roast, make up a sound, strong fire, equally good in every part of the grate, or your meat cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform colour which constitutes the beauty of good roasting. Give the fixe a good stirring before you lay the joint down ; examine it from time to time while the spit is going round ; keep it clear at the bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in the front, which will spoil the look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from roasting evenly. When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the other, place the spit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire. Do not put meat too near the fire at first the larger the joint, the farther it must be kept from the fire. If once it gets scorched, the outside wiU become hard, and acquire a disagreeable empyreumatic taste ; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it, the meat will appear done before it is more than half done, besides losing the pale brown colour, which is the beauty of roasted meat. From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which meat is put from the grate when first put down : it is extremely difficult to offer anything like an accurate general rule for this, it depends so much upon the size of the fire, and on that of the thing to be roasted. Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance from the fire as just to catch the dripijings if it is too near, the ashes wiU fall into it, and spoil the drippings. If it is too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose your drippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by the f cetid smoke which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders. A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes it should not be less than twentyeight inches long, and twenty inches wide, and have a covered well at the side from the fire to collect the diippings this will preserve them in the most delicate state ; in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish and various dishes to keep hot. The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the time it has been kept and the temperature of the weather the same weight will be twenty nunutes or half an hour longer in cold weather than it wiU be in warm, and if fresh killed than if it has been kept till it is tender. A good meat screen is a great saver of coals. It should be on wheels, have a flat top, and not be less than about three feet and a half wide, and with shelves in it, about one foot deep it will then answer aU the purposes of a large Dutch oven, plate-warmer, hot hearth, ?S:c. Some are made Avith a door behind; this is convenient, but the great heat they are exposed to soon shrinks the materials, and the currents of air through the cracks cannot be prevented, so they are better without the door. Everybody knows the advantage of slow boiling slow roasting is equally important. It is difficult to give any specific rule for time, but if your fire is made as above directed, your meat screen sufficiently large to guard what you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow the old general rule of allowing rather more than a quarter of an hour to the pound a little more or less, according to the temperature of the weather, in proportion as the piece is thick or thin, the strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and the frequency with which you baste it; the more it is basted the less time it will take, as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the fire acts with more force upon it. Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but to the moment the roasts BOA (761) ROA will be wanted supposing there are a dozen people to sip soup and eat fish lirst; you may allow them fifteen minutes for the former and about as long for the latter, more or less, according to the temptations the bon gout of these preceding courses has to attract theii- attention. When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and bright for the browning ; when the steam from the meat draws towards the fire, it is a sign of its being done enough ; but you will be the best judge of that from the time it has been down, the strength of the fire you have used, and the distance your spit has been from it. When the steam begins to arise it is a proof that the whole joint is thoroughly saturated with heat; any unnecessary evaporation is a waste of the best nourishment of the meat. Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy; and just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to brown it. If you wish to froth it, baste it, and di-edge it with flour carefully ; you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light ; the common fault seems to be using too much flour: the meat should have a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of being covered with a paste. Those who are particular about the froth use butter instead of dripping, "and send up what you roast with relish-giving froth,' ' says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appearance to the eye that the palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight, therefore, have the whole course dished before roasts are taken from the fire. A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and colour of her roasts as n court beauty is to her complexion at a birthday ball. If your meat does not browoi so much or so evenly as you wish, take two ounces of glaze i.e., portable soup put four table-spoonfuls of water, and let it warm and dissolve gi-adually by the side of the fire. This wOl be done in about a quarter of an hour; put it on the meat equally all over with a pastebrush the last thing before it goes to table. Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally considered one of the most easy and simple processes of cookery, it requires more unremitting attention to perform it perfectly well than it does to make made dishes. That made dishes are the most difiicult preparations deserves to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roasting and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake once made ; and all the discretion and attention of a steady, careful cook must be unremittingly on the alert. Some good housewives order very large joints to be rather underdone, as they can make a better hash or broil. Dredgings. 1 . Flour mixed with grated bread. 2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and mixed with grated bread. 3. Lemon-peel dried and powdered or orange-peel mixed with flour. 4. Sugar finely powdered and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and flour, or finely-grated bread. 51 5. Fennel seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, and mixed with grated bread or flour. 6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour mixed with beaten nutmeg, ginger, pepper, sugar, and yolks of eggs. 7. Sugar, bread, and salt, mixed. Bastings. 1 . Fresh butter. 2. Clarified suet. 3. Minced sweet herbs, butter, and claret, especially for mutton and lamb. 4. Water and salt. 5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig. 6. Yolks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges. Our ancestors were very particular in their bastings and dredgings, as will be seen by the following quotation from May's *' Accomplished Cook," London, 1665: "The rarest ways of dressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh or fowl, by sea or land, and divers ways of breading or dredging meats, to prevent the gravy from too much evaporating." Roasting, Mr. Buckmaster on. "I believe I am regarded as a sort of heretic on the question of roasting meat. My opinion is that the essential condition of good roasting is constant basting, and this the meat is not likely to have when shut up in an iron box ; and what is not easUy done is easily neglected. Jlake up your fire, not by shooting on a scuttle of coals, but laying on the coals with your hands, using an old glove. Arrange the lumps of coal so that air passes freely into the fire. By this arrangement you may avoid stirring the fire, which should be done as little as possible. Just before putting down the meat (which may be suspended by a piece of worsted, if you have no other arrangements), clear up the fireplace, and throw to the back of the fire all the cinders and a little small coal sUghtly wetted. This will prevent waste of fuel, and throw the heat where you want it in the front. If you have a meat screen, place it before the fire, so as to get moderately heated before the meat is hung to the fire. Heat reflected from bright metallic surfaces never dries or scorches the meat. Arrange the dripping-pan so that no ashes can fall into it, and just as far below the meat as will enable you to baste it easily. If you have a little dripping or stock, put about a gill into the dripping-pan for basting. Place a newspaper on the floor ; this will keep your hearth clean. There is a right and a wrong way of hanging a piece of meat to roast. The thickest part should hang a trifle below the centre of the fire ; and if this can be best done by hanging the shank of a leg of mutton downwards, do so. The time required for roasting will be modified by circumstances; and different kinds or qualities of meat require somewhat different treatment. The time usually allowed is from fifteen to twenty minutes for a pound. Before removing the meat from the fire, press the lean part with the thumb : if the meat yield easily, or if the meat steam to the fire, it is done. Never sprinkle salt over the meat till about a quarter of an hour before it is ready. Pour EOB (762) ROC away the dripping Tjcf ore using the salt, because fat tised for puddings and pies and frying is "better without salt. You may dredge a little flour over it, and every part should be of a nice pale brown r if any part be scorched or blackened 3'ou have failed in your cooking. Pour off the dripping, leaving in the pan the pure gravy free from fat. Have a gill or half a pint of the stock or broth, or water, ready ; pour it into the dripping-pan, rinse it round, strain it into the dish, and send it to table as quickly as possible. Some cooks tie a piece of di-ippin_gor buttered paper on the moat." Rob. Eobs arc vegetable juices simply inspissEfted by evaporating most of the water in a vessel over a fire till they acquire the consistence of syrup, which will prevent theiirunning into fermentation. The fruits are to be squeezed in bags to obtain the juices. Sometimes a little sugar is added to make them keep better. Eob of elderberries will keep without sugar, and is sometimes employed medicinally. Robert, Sauce. Xo. l. Dissolve a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a saucepan, and fry in it two moderate-sized onions finely ?chopped. When they are lightly coloured, pouiover them a wine-glassful of vinegar, and simmer for four minutes. Add an oimce of brown thickening, or, failing this, stir in a table-spoonful of flour, half a pint of broth or water, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the same of salt. Stir the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes, then add a table-spoonful of French mustard, a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence. Mix all well together over the fire, and serve. If French mustard cannot bo had, English mustard must be used, but it wiU not answer the purpose nearly so well. A spoonful of port is sometimes added. No. 2. The following is a more simple recipe than the above. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter till they begin to turn yellow. Pour over them as much brown gravy as will cover them, add a table-spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pejjper, and simmer very gently, adding more gi'avj' if necessary till the onions are tender. liub them through a fine sieve, mix with the pulp some more gravy, say a quarter of a pint, boil once more, and serve. Time to prepare, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Robert, Sauce (M. Udc's way). Cut some onions into small dice, fry them of a fine brown, moisten them with some Espagnole (Spanish sauce), or dust them with flour, and moisten with veal gravy. Skim it, that the sauce may look bright ; put in a little pepper iind salt, and just before you send up mix a spoonful of mustard. Rocambole. This plant, which is employ id much in the same way as garlic and shallots, is a native of Denmark. It has compound bulbs like garlic, but the cloves are smaller. " The cloves," says Loudon, "both of the stalk and roots, are used in the maimer of garlic or shallot, and nearly for the same purposes. It is considered milder than garlic." Rochelle Salad. Wash two fine heads of celery, and dry them perfectly. Cut the best stalks into pieces an inch long, and lay these in a salad bowl, mixed vith the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, thinly shi-ed. Press the yolks of the eggs thi-ough a wire sieve, and the moment before serving pour over the salad a quarter of a pint of tartar sauce. Sprinkle over this first the powdered egg-yolks, and afterwards three fine truffles, finely shred. Ornament the salad with anchovy, beetroot, sUces of German sausages, or in any suitable manner, and serve. If liked, the trufiles may be omitted, and mayonnaise sauce be substituted for the tartar sauce. Rock. Under this name flourishes a kind of sweetmeat composed of sugar, and sometimes mixed with almonds and various flavours. The sugar is first of all boiled, then it is poiu-ed out on a cold marble slab, and worked up into a rough mass. The name "rock" is also given to another kind of sweetmeat, in which the sugar whilst hot and soft is repeatedly pulled over a smooth iron hook, until it becomes white and i orous. This rock is flavoured in various ways. Rock Biscuits. Break the whites of three eggs into a pan, and stir them together with a whisk till they break. Cut some blanched, but not di ied, sweet almonds into long thin slices, and put them, with an ounce of candied orangepeel cut'small, and one ounce of finely-powdered loaf sugar, to the eggs ; mix all well up together with a spoon, adding more ahnonds and sugar to make the preparation hang together if required. Put white wafer-paper on your iron plates, and lay the mixtui-e on it in biscuits about the size of a half-crown piece, but piled about an inch to an inch and a haU' high. Bake them, in a slack oven, of a nice light colour. -Bead. Rock Biscuits, Lemon {see Lemon Rock Biscuits). Rock Biscuits, Red. Mix up sliced almonds, whites of eggs, and sugar as directed in the recipe. Rock Biscuits, and colour with a little cochineal. ]\rake the preparation into biscuits as ah-eady directed, and bake in a very slack oven. The orange-peel may be omitted. Rock, Brighton (see Brighton Rock). Rock Cakes. No. l. Whisk three whole eggs till light, ilix with them haK a pound of j50wdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of flour, and a table- spoonful of currants. Beat all thoroughly together, drop the dough in lumps upon a buttered tin, and with a fork make them look as rough as possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven, and when thej are done enough store them in a tin canister till wanted for use. No. 2. Beat four ounces of butter to cream. Add four ounces of sugar, two well-whisked eggs, a pound of flour, and a handful of currants, picked and dried. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and bake in small cakes as above. No. 3 (very plain). Rub a little butter or dripping into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of baking BOC (763) ROD powder, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, two or three grates of nutmeg, and a handful of picked and dried currants. JMLx the dry ingredients thoi-oughly, add milk or water to make a light dough, and bake immediately in a well-heated oven. No. 4. Eub a quarter of a pound of butter into half a pound of flour, and add four ounces of moist sugar. Mix the whole to a light dough with a beaten egg, and add a table-spoonful of brandy. Bake as before. Rock Cakes, Almond or Cocoa-nut. Blanch three-quarters of a pound of sweet and three or four bitter almonds, and cut them in pieces the size of a pea. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a firm froth. .Stir in tlireequarters of a pound of white and sifted sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time, and add quite as gradually the blanched almonds. Lay a piece of buttered paper on a flat tin, and with a fork drop the mixture in little knobs upon it. Bake in a moderate oven. Half a pound of grated cocoa-nut may be substituted for the abnonds. Time, twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Rock Cream. Take a tea-cupful of good rice and boil it till soft in sweet milk, sweeten with powdered loaf sugar, and pile it up high on a dish. Lay on the rice, here and there, square pieces of cm-rant jelly, or any kind of preserved fruit. Beat up very stiff the whites of four or five eggs, and a little powdered sugar flavoured with orange-flower water or vanilla ; add a tea-spoonful of cream, and drop the prejjaration over the rice, giving it the look of a rock covered with snow. Rock, Dublin. Take half a pound of sweet almonds. Pick out eight of them, blanch them, cut them into strips, and then throw them into rose or orange-water till wanted. Put the rest of the almonds into a mortar with six bitter ones, and pound them to a paste with a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Add gradually two ounces of powdered sugar and four ounces of sweet butter. Pound the mixture till it looks very white, and set it in a cold place to stiffen. Dip two spoons into cold water, and with these fonn the paste into pieces the size and shape of an egg. Pile these in a glass dish in a rock-like foi-m, and ornament with strips of angelica, the almonds which were put aside, and a little myrtle. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for a small dish. Rock, Irish, {see Irish Eock). Rock or Candy. Put a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan with a tea-cupful of water, ;md stir it xmtil it is dissolved, add a spoonful of vinegar to clear it, and carefully remove the scum. Have ready a shallow tin rubbed over with butter. When the sugar is boiled sufficiently, stir inta it sliced almonds, chopped cocoa-nut, or Brazil nuts shelled and cut in slices, and pour it into the tin to the thiclcness of half or a quarter of an inch. If preferred, the nuts, &c., may be left out, and the rock may be simply marked across with a knife when it is almost cold. In order to ascertain when tlio sugar is done enough, dip a spoon into it, and raise it. If the threads thus formed snap like glass, it is ready. Rock,- Snowy. Take a pound of loaf sugar, clarify it, and boil it till it reaches the degree of crackled ; then add a table-spoonful of vinegar. A few drops of either the essence of lemon or the oil of peppermint may also be mixed in. AVhen the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, pour the mixture out on a slightlyoiled marble slab; whilst cooling it may be twisted, rolled, moulded, or made up into any shape at pleasure. Rock Sugar, Coloured. Take a pint of clarified sugar and boil it in a copper or eai'thenware pan over a clear fire till it reaches the degree of- crackled. Remove it from the fire, and mix well into it a table-spoonful of icing, stirring briskly all the time with your skimmer. If no icing is at hand, mix some sifted loaf sugar with the white of an egg till it is quite thick, put in a table-spoonful, and that will answer as well. If the rock is wanted coloured, mix with the icing any of the colourings used for confectionery before you put it to the sugar. \Vhen the sugar and icing- are well mixed, put it into a papered sieve to cool, and when quite cold break it in pieces. Rockling. A genus of fish of the cod and haddock family. On the British coast several species are found, the largest being never above nineteen or twenty inches long, the smallest the mackerel Midge being only about an inch and a quarter. Fishermen do not hold any of the species in great esteem, partly, no doubt, on account of decomposition setting in very soon after they are taken out of the water. When fresh, however, they are weU suited for the table. Rocks, Almond. Take one pound of sweet almonds, two pounds of loaf sugar, and a pound and a half of sweet almonds cut in slices. Beat the almonds that are not sliced and the sugar together in a mortar, and pass it all through a flour-sieve. Put the whites of seven or eight eggs into a middling-sized pan, and whisk them up to a very strong froth. Stir in sufficient of your almonds and sugar to make it into a moderate stiff paste, adding also ycuisliced almonds ; form it into small heaps with your fingers the required size mind you do not press the heaps together too tight, but let them be rather loose, especially on the top. Cover some tins with wafer-paper, and lay them on it, about an inch and a half apart. Bake in a cool oven, and leave the oven-door open the greater part of the time they are baking ; when they are of a nice pale brown they are done. If managed properly, almond rocks have a pretty appearance. Rocks, Alpha {sec Alpha Eocks). Rocks for Cheese (frequently called Pulled Bread) . Take a half-baked loaf or one that is perfectly new ; tear off the crust, and with two forks pull the crumb into pieces the size of a Brazil nut. Lay these on a tin, put them in a brisk oven, and bake till they are crisp and brown. Serve with the cheese course. Rodon Cake. Lay two pounds of fimflour en a sheet of paper before the fire, and KOE (764) BOE move it about occasionally until it is quite diy and warm. Mix a small tea-cupful of fresh yeast, or two ounces of German yeast with half a pint of lukewarm milk, stir this into a quarter of a pound of the flour, and set it to rise. When it is well risen put the pound and a half of flour remaining into a separate bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt, six ounces of sifted sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and an ounce of pounded bitter almonds ; when these are thoroughly mixed, add twelve well-beaten eggs, and as much lukewarm milk as will fomi a thin dough. This will be about half a pint. Dissolve a pound of butter, and stir it in also, then add the sponge dough. Beat all briskly together for twenty minutes, then add four ounces of picked and dried currants, eight ounces of stoned raisins, and two ounces of almonds cut small. Butter a plain mould rather thickly, sprinkle chopped almonds over it, and shake oft' all that will not adhere. Half fill the mould with the dough, set it in a warm place to rise, and then bake in a moderate oven. If liked, half the quantity may be used, and then nine eggs -will be required. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Roe Sauce for Fish. Take the soft roes of any fish previously boiled or fried, clear away the skin, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden s joon. jNIix with them a dessert- spoonful of mixed mustard, a dessertspoonful of anchovy sauce or walnut pickle, a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Rub the mixture till smooth, and stir it "into half a pint of melted butter. If preferred, a table-spoonful of plain vinegar may be substituted for the chilli vinegar, and a spoonful of ketchup for the anchovy or pickle. Or bruise the boiled roes as before, and beat up with them the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of fennel and another of parsley, both scalded and chopped, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the preparation into melted butter. Time, a few jninutes to prepare. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Roebuck. The roebuck or common roe is ?of a reddish brown colour, and though small is elegant in shape, and nimble. Plainly dressed it is not worth much, but when marinaded, larded, or jugged, it is very good. The roebuck has been long extinct in England, but is still found in the Highlands of Scotland. It is also found generally throughout continental Europe, and some parts of Asia. In Louisiana the roebuck was once very common, and was larger than that of Europe. The flesh has been compared in flavour to mutton. Roebuck, Braised. Saw the shank and spine bones from a haunch of roebuck, pare away the skin from the upper part of the leg and the loin, and lard these bare portions closely and evenly with strips of bacon about six inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. These lardons may be seasoned with pepper, salt, and powdered herbs. Place the haunch in a braising-pan, pour over it as much stock as _ will cover it, and add two carrots, tlu-ee onions, two turnips, four or five outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, two cr three cloves, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Set the braisiere over a gentle tire, let its contents simmer very softly, and baste frequently till the meat is done enough. Drain it, and put it in the oven for a short time. Strain the liquor, and boil it down till thick. Baste the haunch with this until it has a bright glazed appearance, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish the dish with glazed carrots and onions. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, Is. 4d. to 2s. per pound. Sufiicient for eight or ten persons. Roebuck, Cutlets of . Divide a neck of roebuck into cutlets, trim them neatly, flatten with a cutlet bat, and season with pepper and salt. Dip the cutlets first into clarified butter, and afterwards into bread-crumbs. Butter the bars of the gridiron, and broil the cutlets over a gentle fire, turning them frequently to preserve the gravy. Serve with a little piquant sauce poured round them. Time to broil the cutlets, ten to twelve minutes. Roebuck, Haricot of. A shoulder or a neck of roebuck may be dressed thus. If the neck is chosen, divide it into thick cutlets; or if the shoulder, cut the meat off in pieces not larger than an egg. Fry these in butter until browned, take up the meat, mix with the fat as much flour as will make a stiff paste, beat it with the back of a wooden spoon till it is smoothly and lightly coloured, and then moisten it giadually with as much stock as will cover the roebuck. Add pepper and salt, together with three or four carrots, two turni JS, and four onions, cut into neat shapes not larger than a small walnut. Let the liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer very softly until done enough. Be very careful to remove the scum and fat as it rises. Strain the sauce into a small stewpan, and boil it down until it is sufliciently thick to coat the spoon. Put with it two table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly and a glass of port. Trim the pieces of meat, and heat them in it, add the vegetables, and serve all on one dish very hot. Time, about two hours. Probable cost, roebuck. Is. 4d. to 2s. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Roebuck, Haunch of. Marinaded. ? Prepare a marinade sufliciently deej) to cover the surface of the haunch, the ingredients being in the following pro wrtions : With a pint of vinegar put a quart of water, two onions finely minced, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a little salt, a sliced carrot, three or four sticks of celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil all together for half an hour, strain, and put into a pan large enough to hold the roebuck. Saw the shank and spine bones from the haunch, pare away the skin from the upper part of the leg and along the loin, and lard these bare places closely and evenly with thin strips of bacon. Put the haunch in the marinade for a week. Take it up, spit, and roast before a clear fire, being careful to baste constantly. Unless this is done the meat will be very diy. Take it up, brush it over with melted glaze, and serve very hot. The dish should BOB (765) ROE be garnished with stewed prunes and fried potatoes, and a sauce, prepared as follows, should accompany it, a little poured over the haunch, and the rest in a tureen : Cut an ounce of lean ham into dice, and fry it in a Uttle butter with a small wirrot, a stick of celery, and an onion, all cut small, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a quarter of a blade of mace, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Stir these ingredients over the fire until they are lightly browned, then add two table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one of ketchup. Let the liquor boil, and put with it half a pint of brown sauce, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract, a wine-glass of sherry, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Let the sauce boil carefully, sicim off the fat, &c., strain it, and it will be ready for use. Time to roast the haunch, about an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 4d. to 2s. a pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Roebuck, Jugged. ? Cut a breast of roebuck into small chops, fry these with three or four slices of good bacon in butter till they are lightly browned, then pour off the liquor, and mix flour with it to make a roux {see Roux) . Moisten this with as much good stock as will cover the pieces of roebuck, and add four or five onions with half a dozen cloves stuck in them, three or four inches of thin lemon-rind, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt ; a few mushrooms may be added if liked. Put all into a stewpan, cover closely that no steam may escape, and when the liquor has boiled, draw the pan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently until done enough. Put the meat on a dish, arrange the vegetables roimd it, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the meat, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. to 2s. per pound. Roebuck, Minced. Take the remains of a dressed leg of roebuck. Remove all fat, skin, and gristle ; mince the meat finely, and mix it with the remains of the poivrade sauce [see Roebuck, Haunch of, Marinaded). If there is none left, make a little ; a pint will be sufficient for a pound of mince. Heat all gently together vithout allowing the sauce to boil, and serve garnished with poached eggs. Time to warm the mince, a few minutes. Roebuck, Roast. Take a leg of roebuck, saw away the shank bones, and pare off about four inches of the top skin. Lard the bare place closely and evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Wrap the leg in buttered paper, leaving both ends open, put it down before a clear fire, and roast it till done enough. About ten minutes before it is taken down, remove the paper and sprinkle a little salt over the joint. Serve with a paper frill round the knuckle, and send poivrade sauce to table in a tureen. The directions for making this sauce are given with Roebuck, Haunch of, JIarinaded. Time to roast a leg weighing five pounds, fifty minutes. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Roes, Herring, in Cases (Ude's way). Have a paper case, either round or square its size must be suited to the dish you are going to use spread some butter over the bottom. Broil eight very fresh soft-roed herrings, and when well done take out the roes, and put them, without breaking, into the case. Sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, rjispod bread, and finely-chopped parsley ; put a few small bits of butter over them in different places, and bake them in a hot oven. When they are done, put a little maitre d'hotel sauce into the case, with the juice of a lemon. Send up quite hot, and very firm. This dish can never be properly prepared if you wash the herrings : scale them very well, and wipe them first with a damp cloth, and afterwards with a dry one, then broil them sharply, so as to keep the soft roe very firm. The case should be made of strong foolscap paper. Roes, Mackerel, in Cases. Take six very fresh soft-roed mackerel. Broil them till well done, then take the roes from them, and put them into small cases with parsley chopped fine, a little rasjjed crust of bread, salt, pepper, and a little butter; then put them into the oven; when they are very hot, send them to table with a little white sharp sauce, and the juice of a lemon. This will only make a small dish : when you want to make it larger, put more soft rtea- spoonful of salt in a pint of hot milk. Stir in a pound of flour, and when the batter is lukewarm add a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Put the dough in a warm place, and let it rise till light. This vill be in three or four hours. Work in another half a pound of flour, and let the dough rise again for an hour or two. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of soda in a table-spoonful of hot water, knead this into the dough, and form it into small rolls three inches long and one wide. Put these side by side in buttered baking-pans, let them rise before the flre for five or six minutes, prick them, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty minutes. Rolls, Ginger. Take two oimces of good powdered ginger and a little salt, and mix these ingredients well with two pounds of flour. Make the preparation into a firm but perfectly light dough with German or brewer's yeast in the usual way. Divide into six or eight smaU loaves, and bake. Rolls, Hot. When hot rolls are sent in from the baker's for breakfast, they should be put into the oven as soon as they amve, because it is seldom well heated in the early morning, and rolls are worth nothing when they are half cold. Two minutes before they are to be served, take them out, divide them into three lengthwise, and put some thin slices of good butter between the rolls ; press them together, and return them to the oven for one minute. Take them out, spread the butter, divide the rolls into halves, place them on a hot clean dish, and serve immediately. Probable cost, Id. each. Rolls (made from risen dough). No. 1. Take a lump of the dough, divide it into small balls the size of an orange, put these into patty-pans, and set them before the firo for ten minutes to rise. Put them into the oven, and bake them tiU done enough. When nearly cold grate off the outer crust. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. No. '2. Take a piece of dough the size of a small loaf. Work into it a slice of butter, lard, or sweet dripping, and one egg. Knead it well, and make it into rolls three inches long and an inch thick. Lay these side by side in a buttered dish, and put them into a quick oven. Do not open the oven-door for a quarter of an hour, then brush the tops of the rolls over with milk, bake them five minutes longer and they will be done enough. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Rolls, Meat. Mince some under-dressed meat beef, veal, chicken, or turkey and pound it smoothly with a third of its weight in fresh butter and a liberal seasoning of pepper and salt, ilake some good forcemeat, and form it into small rolls about three inches long and half an inch thick. Moisten these with water, and cover with one or two layers of the pounded meat. Fold them in puff paste, fasten the ends securely, and bake in a well-heated oven. Serve them piled on a neatly-folded napkin. The forcemeat may be made as follows : ? ? Mix a quarter of a tea-spoonful of finely -minced lemon-rind with four ounces of finely-grated bree.d-crumbs. Add salt and pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce of mixed sweet herbs finely powdered. Break into the mixture two ounces of sweet butter, moisten with the yolk of an egg, and work lightly with the fingers till it is well mixed. Time to bake the rolls, twenty minutes. Rolls, Meat (another way). Pound the meat as above. Form it into rolls, and insert in the centre of each a sjioonful of mushrooms which have been stewed in butter till tender and then drained. Fold the rolls in puff paste, and bake in a well -heated oven until the pastry is done enough. Timu to bake, about twenty minutes. Rolls, Milk (to be eaten either hot or cold). Put a pound of fine floiu- into a bowl. Scoop a hole out of the centre, and sprinkle round the edge a tea- spoonful of salt and two tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Dissolve two ounces of butter in half a pint of tepid milk, add an ounce of German yeast, and work the whole gradually to a stiff paste, adding a little more flour if necessary-. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and put it on the hearth to rise. Wlien it is hght, which will be in about threequarters of an hour, divide it into small balls the size of an orange, rub these between the hands into rolls, brush over with milk or with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Rolls, Milk (another way) .See Milk Rolls. Rolls, Oyster. Take two or three square French rolls, cut a slice off the top, and scoop out the greater part of the crumb. Half fill the hollows with finely-minced oysters seasoned ROL (769) BOM with c aycnne, and fill to the top with rich white Siiuce. Lay on the cover, tie it on with twine, and put the rolls in a Dutch oven hefore a clear fire until they are hrown and quite hot. If hked, the oysters can be stewed hefore being put into the rolls. Rolls, Polenta. Polenta is the name under wliich Italian flour or maize is sold at the foreign warehouses in this country. It is much superior in quality to that which is imported from America, and is harvested with more care ; but its consumption here is comparatively small, and it is sold at a price which must, while it is maintained, prevent its general use for bread, of which it makes a pleasant variety when mixed with twice the quantity of wheaten flour. Blend intimately in an earthen pan one pint of the polenta with a quart of the best flour, and rather less than the usual proportion of salt. Dilute gradually a dessert-spoonful of solid yeast, or half an ounce of German yeast, with a pint of warm new milk (a few spoonfuls more than this quantity may be required, but it is better not to add it at first), and make the dough up at once. Let it be firm without beinghard, as it will become lithe in rising. Leave it covered with a cloth until it appears quite light ; then knead it down thoroughly, and let it again stand to rise. Divide it into large rolls, place them some distance apart on a floured tin, and bake them in a moderate oven from threequarters of an hour to an hour-. The polenta imparts a pleasant flavour to this bread, which eats almost like rice-cake, wliich it may be made to resemble still further by dissolving an ounce of butter in the milk with which it is mixed. Rolls, Turkish. Take six ounces of Jordan almonds, a pint and a half of milk, two to three pounds of best flour, and haK to threequarters of an ounce of German yeast. Blanch and pound the almonds to a perfectly smooth paste, moisten them gradually with boiling milk or thin cream, and let them simmer together for a few minutes. Wring with strong pressure the milk from the almonds through a tamis or a thick cloth, and employ it like ordinary milk for making the requisite quantity of flour into dough. If liked, the dough may be slightly tinged with saiiron, and sweetened with a little pounded sugar. Rolls, Veal. Cut thin slices of undressed veal, or, if prefeixed, take slices of underdressed meat. Spread on each one a seasoning of minced bacon, chopped parsley, stewed and minced mushrooms, pepper, salt, and pounded mace, together with a few finely-grated breadcrumbs. Roll the meat up, and tie it securely with twine. Put these into a saucepan with as much nicely-flavom-cd bro vn gravy as will cover them, and then let them simmer gently imtil tender. Put the rolls on a hot dish with the gi'a\-y poured over them, and serve very hot. Roly-poly Pudding. The pastry for this favourite pudding may be made in three or four ways, according to the degree of richness reqiiired. For a superior pudding mix a pound of flour with half a pound of very finely-shred suet, freed from skin and fibre. Add a good pinch of salt, an egg, and nearly half a pint of milk. Roll it out three or four times. For a plainer pudding, mix five or six ounces of suet with a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and make a paste by stirring in half a pint of water. When suet is objected to, rub six ounces of butter or six ounces of sweet dripping into a pound of flour, and proceed as before. When a smaller quantity still of dripping is used, the addition of a spoonful of baking-powder will help to make the pastry light. Roll out the pastry to a long thin form, a quarter of an inch thick, and of a width to suit the size of the saucepan in which it is to be boiled. Spread over it a layer of any kind of jam, and be careful that it does not reach the edges of the pastry. Begin at one end, and roll it up to fasten the jam inside, moisten the edges, and press them securely together. Dip a cloth in boiling water, flour it well, and tie the pudding tightly in it. Plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, at the bottom of which a plate has been laid to keep the pudding from burning, and boil quickly until done enough. If it is necessary to add more water, let it be put in boiling. IMarmalade, treacle, sliced lemon and sugar, lemon-juice and sugar, chopped apples and currants, either separately or together, may be used instead of jam for a change. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a haK to two hours, according to the size. Roly-poly Pudding, Apple {sec Apple Roly-poly Pudding). Roly-poly Pudding, Jam (sre Jam Roly-pol}' Pudding) . Roly - poly Pudding, Lemon {sec Lemon Roly-poly Puddiug). Roly-poly Pudding, Prune {see Prune Roly-poly Pudding). Roman Granito {sec Granite, Roman) Roman Guiocchi. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a saucejjan with half a pint of boiling water and a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. As soon as the water reaches the boihng point stir in very gradually six ounces of fine flour, and beat the batter with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth and leaves the saucepan in a lump with the spoon; then add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, and two table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan. Work the pastry briskly for two or three minutes, then roll it into the form of small sausages, and dredge flour upon it to keep it from sticking to the fingers. Throw the rolls into boiling water, and keep them boiling for ten minutes. Drain them, lay them on a dish, pour a httle good brown gravyover them, and serve very hot. Time to boil the guiocchi, ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. SuSicient for three or four persons. Roman Punch, Iced. Put two pounds of finely - powdered sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of ten lemons and two sweet oranges. Add the thin rind of a lemon ROM { 770) EOO and an orange, and let the infusion remain for one hour. Strain the sjTup through muslin, add gradually the whites of ten eggs beaten to a firm froth, and freeze the jDunch in the usual way, heing careful to work it vigorously with the spattle while it is being frozen. A few minutes before serving, mix together a pint of old white Jamaica rum, half a pint of gi-een tea, half a pint of brandy, and a bottle of champag-ne. Add the ice, and stir briskly till it dissolves. A pint of pine-apple syrup may be added or not. This punch should be thick and creamy in appearance. If it is too thick to be poured into glasses, it should be thinned with a little more champagne. Iced Roman punch should be handed round in high glasses between the first and second courses. Rombo or Fowl in Salad Sauce. Take a cold roast fowl, and bone it, or cut up any remaining from the previous day into suitable-sized pieces. Make a sauce as follows : Take the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, beat them up, and add to them two spoonfuls of oil, a spoonful and a haK of vinegar, a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little flour of mustard, to which may be added a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and onion. Dip each piece of fowl separately in this seasoning, and arrange the pieces in a dish garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, and sprigs of parsley. Roobbe, or Indian Bread and Meat {see Indian Bread, kc). Rook. The rook affords a dry and coarse meat. A pie made of yoimg rooks is tolerable ; at least, it is the best form for using these birds as food. There is, in the opinion of some, a resemblance between the flavour of the young rook and that of the young pigeon. Donovan. THE ROOK Rook Pie. Rooks require long stewing, or they will not be tender. The breasts are the only parts of the birds which are really worth xising, and when the other portions are put into the dish, care should be taken to cut out the spine and the flesh near it to the width of threequarters of an inch, or the pie will have a bitter taste. Many cooks lay the birds in a dish. season them with pepper and salt, put a coarse fiour-and-water crust over them, and then bake them for a couple of hours ; the next day they remove the common crust, lay good pastrjover them, and bake the pie in the usual way. The following recipe will, however, be found very good : Take six or eight freshly-ldlled young rooks. Skin without plucking them, and to do this cut the skin round the first joint of the legs, and draw it over the head. Cut ofi: the necks, draw the birds, and cut away the legs, backs, and wings. Cut a pound of chuck steak into neat squares, pepper these, and lay them in a pie-dish, poui-ing over them half a tea-cupful of stock or watei"; cover the dish closely, and balce the meat till it is almost done enough. Lay the breasts of the rooks upon the steak, wath a small slice of butter upon each. Spi-inkle over them a seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and pour over them as much stock or water as will barely cover them. Let them bake gently for half an hour. Let the dish cool, then Kne the edges with good pastrj-, cover it with the same, ornament according to taste, make a hole in the centre that the steam may escape, and bake in a brisk oven. When the pastry is done enough, the pie may be served. Time to bake, altogether, two hoiu-s and a half. Probable cost, uncertain, rooks being seldom sold. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Rook Pie (another way) Skin and draw si.x young rooks, and cut out the backbones. Season them -with pepper and salt, put them in a deep dish \vith half a pint of water, lay some bits of butter over them, and cover the dish with a tolerably thick crust. Let the jjie be well baked. Root Gravy {see Gra-sy Maigre for Fish : sometimes called Root Gra\' '). Roots, Esculent. These are of two kinds those used as food, and those which principally answer the purposes of condiment or seasoning. Under the first division may be classed tui'nips, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, radishes, &c., many of which, it will be seen, are seldom used solely for aliment, but are rather brought to our tables to qualify our animal food. Under the second division maybe arranged onions, garlic, horseradish, &c. We may add a few observations on the qualities of these several roots. The carrot, from the quantity of saccharine matter which it contains, is verj' nutritive and slightly laxative ; but it also possesses a large proportion of fibrous matter, which in some stomachs prevents the digestion of the root, and it passes through the bowels with but little change. To obviate this effect, it ought to be veiy thoroughly boiled, and it should be eaten when young. The turnip is a veiy excellent vegetable, and, although it has the character of being flatulent, is less liable to disagree with the stomach than the carrot. It ought, however, to be weU boiled, and the watery part separated by pressure. The parsnip is nutritive and digestive, although many persons dislike it on account of its sweet flavour. The Jerusalem artichoke is agreeable, but watery and flatulent. It ought, therefore, never to be eaten without ROO 771 ) BOS a proper accompaniment of salt and pepper. As to radishes, all the varieties have a pungent and acrid taste, in consequence of a peculiar stimulating matter which resides in the cortical part of the root. They may be said to contain little else than water, woody fibre, and acrid matter, and cannot, therefore, be very nutritive. They may act as a stimulant and prove useful, but they ought never to be eaten when old, as the quantity of inert matter in such a condition is apt to disagiee with the stomach. From the consideration of radishes we pass, by an easy transition, to that of onions, &c., for they appear to form the connecting link between alimentary roots and those principally used as condiments. The onion, however, although classed under this latter di\dsion, and though it must be considered as valuable on account of its stimulating matter, certainly contains a considerable proportion of nourishment. This appears evident in their boiled state, by which process their acrimony is exhaled and a sweet mucilage separated. Sir John Sinclair says that it is a well-knowTi fact that a Highlander, with a few raw onions in his pocket and a crust of bread or some oat-cake, can travel to an almost incredible extent for two or three days together without any other sort of food. The French are fully aware of the quantity of nourishment this plant affords, hence the soup a Voignon is considered by them as the best of aU restoratives. As a stimulant to the stomach and bowels, the onion in a raw state is certainly of value, and this is much enhanced by its diuretic properties. The leek, garlic, and shaUot are of the same species, and possess qualities of the same nature. Horseradish is a warm and pungent root, and is highly valuable to the dyspeptic as a stimulant; it is, perhaps, the best of all condiments for the prevention of flatulence. i r. Paris. Roots, Essence of (maigre). Clean three bunches of carrots, two of turnips, six heads of celery, two bunches of white onions, and one of leeks, the whole sliced, and boiled for two minutes in boiling water ; cool them afterwai-ds in cold water, then drain, and put them in a stock-pot with ten quarts of boiling water, add an onion with two cloves, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and butter; simmer them for three hours over a slow fire, skim off all the butter, and strain the essence through a silk sieve. This stock, not being coloured, is adapted for sauces and soups that are to bo white, but has less flavour than that described in the preceding recipe. Roots, Maeedoine of. Take some button onions, peel them ; some carrots as red as you can get them, and some nice young turnips. Pare off the outer red part of the carrot, haA-ing fii'st scraped and cleaned them thoroughly, and cut the parings into bits about the size of peas ; do so also \vith the turnips, but leave the onions whole. Frj' the onions and turnips in a good lump of butter and a tea-spoonful of sugar, but the caiTots require more dressing, and should be stewed previously in water for about ten or fifteen minutes, when they may be fried with the rest. Toss aU the vegetables well in the butter until the}- are glazed but not burned. Add a cui)ful of bechamel maigre and stew, with a proper seasoning of salt and pepper, until the maeedoine has acquired a rather thickish consistency and the sauce is reduced. To thicken, add the yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir in the thickening when ready to serve, and when the heat has gone oft' a little, or it \\t11 cui-dle and spoil the sauce. If not required for a maigre dish, use bechamel made with meat, but in every other respect proceed as before directed. Time, fifteen minutes to stew the carrots ; to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost of bechamel maigre, per pint, 6d. This dish is mostly used as a maigre dish. Roots, Pickled. To pickle roots such as beetroots, carrots,, salsifis, &c. slice them, boil them in vinegar for a short time, and flavour with the usual spices. They should not, of course, be boiled sufficiently long to destroy their crispness. Roquefort Cheese. The celebrated cheese of Rovergue, known under the name of Roquefort cheese, was made in the seventeenth century in the following way, according to MarcoreUe: "The cui-d employed is made from sheep's milk mixed with a little goat's milk. It is broken as small as possible. "NVhen it is taken from the moulds it is bound with a linen band and taken to the drying-room, then to the caves, where it is rubbed with salt on the two flat sides of the sui-face. The dovmy substance which subsequently covers the crust is frequently scraped off, after which it is left to ripen on tablets exposed to currents of air which proceed from the interstices of the rocks in which the caves are formed." Rose Brandy, for Flavouring Cakes and Puddings. Fill a bottle with freshlygathered rose-leaves, and shake them down. Poui' brandy over them to cover them, cork the bottle closely, and store the infusion for use. Rose Cream. Boil a pint of milk, sweeten it, and flavour' with a table-spoonful of rose brandy. Drop into it while boiling the whites of four eggs in separate table-spoonfuls. Turn these over once or twice in the hot milk till they are just set, then lift them carefuUy out, and put them on a sieve to drain. Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and the milk, and stir this over the fire till it begins to thicken. An additional pint of milk may be added or not. Put it into a custard-bowl, and when it is cold lay the poached-egg whites upon it. Sprinkle hundreds and thousands over these, or lay upon them candied peel cut into shreds, and then serve. Time to poach the egg-whites, half a minute. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rose Custard (a French recipe). BoU a i:)int of good milk ; when it boils up, set it on one side of the fire, and sweeten to taste, adding some essence of rose and a little carmine in powder by way of colouring, \'~hilst this infusion is going on, take the yolks of eighteen or twenty eggs, put them into a deep dish, and with a wooden spoon keep turning them tUl they are well mixed. To these ingredients add by degrees the milk, keeping it turned all ROS ( 772 ) ROS the time ; then strain the mixture ; put it again into the saucepan, set it on the fire, keep stirring it till it thickens, but on no account allow it to toil, or all will be spoiled. To prevent it, keep stirring it with one hand, holding the other on the handle of the saucepan to remove it instantly. Strain the mixture a second time into custard-cups or a deep bowl. " This," says A. von Kochheim, " is a most delicious custard, as delicate as celebrated." Rose Drops. Put a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan with two ounces of water. Stir it over a slow lire till it is dissolved, and add a few drops of essence of rose, and three or four drops of cochineal. When the syrup is on the point of simmering, take it from the fire, stir it a few minutes longer, and drop it in small rounds upon an oiled slab or dish. Let the di'ops cool, then remove them with the point of a knife. Or dry half an ounce of red rose-leaves, pound them to powder, and sift carefully. INIix with them one pound of finely-powdered sugar, and add as much strained lemon-juice as will make a stiff paste. Stir this mixture over a slow fire tiU it is scalding hot, then drop it in small rounds upon an oiled dish, and set them in a wann place for twenty-four hours. Rose Juice (a German recipe). "To a pint of honey take two ounces of red and two ounces of white roses, two ounces of the flowers of sage, and two ounces of the flowers of blackthorn ; pound them well, and when the honey is clarified, put them in. Boil it until it becomes a thick syrup, pour it through a tamis, and put it into glasses. The thick sediment that remains may be also used, adding a spoonful or two of honey to it. Juices may be pressed in like manner from A iolets, pinks, and cornflowers." Rose Sauce for Sweet Puddings, &C. Take a fresh beetroot, peel it, and cut it into small pieces. Put it into a saucepan, pour over it a quart of cold water, and let it boil softly for half an hour. Add the strained juice and thin rind of a fresh lemon, two pounds of loaf sugar, and three or four drops of vanilla. Boil the sauce quickly until it forms a thick rose-coloured sjTup, then strain it, and when it is cold mix with it a quarter of a pint of brandy. Bottle and store for use. Time to boil the sjTup, about lialf an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, Is. 2d. Rose Tea. Pour a pint of boiling water over an ounce of red rose-leaves. Cover the infusion, and let it remain for ten minutes. Filter it, sweeten it with honey, and drink a glassful cold the first thing in the morning. Time to infuse, ton minutes. Kose tea in some complaints is a useful tonic. Rose-water. When the buds of the red rose begin to expand into the full-blown flower, their perfume is most perfect, and in that state they should be gathered on a dry morning, the heels cut off, and the leaves only put into a clean cask in layers, with salt sprinkled between them, to preserve them till they are collected in quantity sufficient for distillation. Fill the still two-thirds with the petals and salt together, with a little water at the bottom to prevent burning, and have the still put into a water bath ; proceed to the distillation with a very slow fire, and receive the first product in several phials in order to examine it. The first will be highly impregnated ; and as soon as the slightest cmpyreumatic odour or burnt smell is perceived, throw away the portion that is contaminated, and stop the distillation. Rose-water should be kept in a cool, dark place, as heat and light speedily cause it to spoil. It is best to put it into a stone jar with a cork, that it may be drawn off without disturbing the sediment, which is apt to be the case if decanted from small bottles. It should be made in small quantities at a time, as it will not keeji long-. The salted leaves will keep for months, and do as well for distillation as when gathered fresh, and it is to be observed that it is an error to suppose that the salt is of any further use in the distillation than to keep the leaves from spoiling. Perfumed tepid water for fingerglasses may be easily prepared by infusing a few fresh or dried rose-petals, lavender, or any other flower, in the morning for the pui'pose. Webster and Parkes. Rosemary. The leaves of the rosemary are infused in some drinks, and the sprigs are employed as a garnish. The plant is evergreen, and highly aromatic. Rosemary and Baked Lamb {see Lamb, Baked, and Kosemary). Rosemary Flowers, To Candy. Soak a little gum-tragacanth (commonly called gum-dragon) in water, and soak the rosemary flowers in the mucilage thus prepared. Lay them on a sheet of paper, and sprinkle powdered loaf sugar over them. Put them in a warm place, and sprinkle powdered sugar over them frequently till they are covered with candy. Store in a cool dry place. Roses, Tincture of. Take the leaves of the conunon rose and place them, without pressing, in an ordinary bottle ; pom- some good spirits of wine upon them, close the bottle, and sot aside till required for use. Common vinegar is greatly improved by a very small quantity of the tincture of roses being added to it. Roseneath Puddings. Take two eggs, and their weight in flour, butter, and sugar. Beat the butter to cream, add the sugar, flour, and eggs, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Butter some small cups, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve cold, with almonds sliced and cut into strips stuck into the puddings. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ross's Mixture for Devilled Meats. Put a table-spoonful of chutney into a bowl, and work into it with the back of a wooden spoon one ounce and a half of fresh butter, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful of Harvey Sauce, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and four tablespoonfuls of good cold gra\y . Beat the mixture till smooth, dip the meat to be devilled into it, stew it softly till it is warmed through, and ser\-e. ROT (773) ROU Roti de Pauvre Homme. Take a fine pullet or capon, the fattest procurable. Make a forcemeat, consisting of some finely-chopped sausage-meat, raw veal and lean ham, cock's kidneys and combs, dried artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, truffles, some shred parsley, a little lemon thyme and sweet basil, one anchovy washed, boned, and chopped fine the Avhole chopped and well mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, with a good lump of fresh butter well incorporated with it. With this forcemeat fill the fowl by the vent, which sew up afterwards. Satiu-ate with butter or olive-oil three or four sheets of writing-paper, and carefully dredge the fowl with flour. Envelope the bird in the paper two layers thick, and cover the whole with another layer slightly buttered. Bury the bird thus prepared in hot wood-ashes until it is cooked, or put it in a range oven, covered with a dish, which must exclude the air from beneath. Roti de Rognons de Veau. Take kidneys which have been carefully roasted before the fire, chop them up with fat, and mix them with mushrooms cut small and fried in butter, and also -with parsley, chives, bay -leaves, and thyme. Season with pepper and salt, and make the chopped kidneys into a paste of the proper consistence for forcemeat with the yolks of some raw eggs. Place thick layers of this on slices of fried bread from which the crust has been cut oft'. Sprinkle bread-crumbs over mixed with raw eggs. Place the slices of bread thus prepared on a dish put over some live cinders, and covered with a hot cover. Rotterdam Pudding, Rich. Beat four ounces and a half of fine flour to a smooth paste with half a pint of milk, and add four ounces and a half of sugar and a small pinch of salt. Blanch and pound four ounces and a half of sweet almonds, and whilst pounding di-op in a little cold water to keep them from oiling. Put four ounces and a half of butter into a saucepan with half a pint of milk. Let it remain until the butter is melted, then stir in the paste of flour and milk, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it boils and becomes thick, when it may be poured out to cool. Add the blanched and pounded almonds, then stir in first the well-beaten yolks of nine eggs, and afterwards the whites of the eggs whisked till firm. Beat the pudding briskly for a few minutes, pour it into a buttered basin which it will fill, tie it in a cloth, and let it boil without ceasing until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and send wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for six or eight persons. Roulette, Lobster. Boil the lobsters, take out the meat, and chop it up ; pound the shells with butter, set them on the fire, and add half a pint of water. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, strain it, set the liquor again on the fire with two ounces of flour, a little pounded mace, and a pinch of sugar ; add bouillon to it till it becomes like thick pap; then stir in the chopped lobster and a little salt ; ?when quite cold, make it into shapes, and proceed as above. A. von Kochhe'im. Roulettes (a Danish recipe). Take one ounce of grated onion, and brown it in an ousce and a half of butter, together with two ounces of flour ; thin the mixture with half a pint of bouillon. Let all boil together till it is smooth, then stir in half a pound of any roasted or boiled meat, finely chopped; add three boned anchovies minced, pounded pepper, salt, a little mace, the juice of half a lemon, and a glassful of white wine. When the preparation is quite cold, cut it into the form of sausages ; roll these in bread-crumbs, then in egg beaten up, then again in bread and egg, and last of all in breadcrumbs ; fry in plenty of hot lard ; garnish with fried parsley, and serve. The above ingredients are enough for about sixteen roulettes. Roulettes, Fish. Take perch, pike, or cod ; boil and pick away all bone and skin. To every half-pound of picked fish, take one ounce of flour; brown the flour in two ounces of butter, and thin it with milk till it becomes a thickish paste ; add the fish to this paste along with a little pounded mace and salt ; give it a boil up, set it aside till cold ; then cut up, and proceed as directed in the jirevious recipe. Rout Biscuits. Three pounds of floiu-, six ounces of butter, one pound and a quarter of loaf-sugar in powdei', half a pint of milk, quarter of an ounce of volatile salts finely powdered, and a little essence of lemon. Put the sugar and volatile salts in the milk, and let them stand for an houi- or two, stirring them occasionally. Another method. One pound of sugar, a teacupful of milk or water, four ounces of butter, and half an ounce of volatUe salts. Put the sugar and milk in a clean saucepan over the fire, let them boil up, and see if all the sugar is dissolved; if not, give it another boil or two, and set it aside to cool. It will be ready for use when cold. Rub the butter in with the flour, make a bay, pour in the sugar, and make the whole into a dough of a moderate stiffness. In the last method, the volatile salts should be pounded and mixed Avith the sugar, and sufiicient flour should be used to make them of a jjroper consistence, keeping the dough in a loose state until it is nearly of the size required ; then work it together ; take a part of the dough, mould it in a square piece, and lay it over the impressions or figures carved in a block of wood, and press it in ; keep your hand firm on it, that it may retain its place; have a thin knife which ia made for this purpose, called a toj' knife, rub it over a damp cloth, or pass it thi'ough flour ; lay it flat on the block, and cut off the superfluous dough ; take the biscuits out and place them on tins slightly buttered, so as not to touch each other; wash them over lightly with milk, and bake them in a very hot oven. This mixture is the best for persons who are not very expert in cutting them. Those made according to the first recipe, the dough Ls apt to get tough if worked or moulded too much an error which inexperienced persons are very liable to covsv?mit. Head. Rout Cakes. No. l. Boat half a pound of butter to cream, add half a pound of ROU (774) ROY powdered sugar, one pound of flour, and half a pound of picked and dried currants. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a stiff paste with three eggs beaten np with a glassful of brandy and a table- spoonful of rose or orange-flower water. Sprinkle some mixed flour and powdered sugar over a bakingtin, drop the preparation upon it in small knobs, and bake these in a quick oven. No. 2. Beat four ounces of butter to cream, and add four ounces of sugar, six ounces of dried floui', the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and a flavouring of grated lemon, pounded almonds, and orangeflower or rose water. Beat the mixture briskly for a few minutes, and pour it into a shallow mould lined with buttered paper. Bake in a weU-heated oven. Let it get cold, then cut it with a very sharp knife into small fancj' shapes of any kind, and moisten these with white of egg beaten up with powdered white sugar. Crisjj them before the fire, and when the icing is set put them in a cool dry place till wanted. Rout Cakes, Almond (Read's recipe). Take one pound of sweet almonds and one pound of loaf sugar; beat your almonds and sugar quite fine, and make it into a moderate stiff paste with the yolk of egg (some use one egg and the rest yolk) . Make them into any shape your fancy may dictate. Use finely-powdered loaf sugar to dust your board or blocks. In making them, place them on clean tins that are slightly buttered, so as not to touch, or lay a sheet of whitey-brown paper on the tin to put them on. Let them remain in a warm place aU night, or a day and a night, before they are baked. Put them in a rather brisk oven ; when lightly coloured over, they are done. Ornament them with nonpareils, candied peel, icing, &c., to fancy; make a mucilage of gum arable, and lay it, with a small brush, over the parts where you wish the nonpareils to adhere ; this is done after they are baked. If you wish to cut your paste out of blocks, put it in a stewpan over the fire ; keep stirring it with a spoon or spaddle ; stir it well to the bottom. When you find the paste does not stick to the sides of the pan, and comes altogether, it is done. Let it get cold before you cut it out. When the cakes are made in this way the impressions show much better. ROUX. Roux is simply a mixture of flour and butter which, when baked, is used for thickening soups and gravies. It is frequently spoken of as a brown or white thickening ; it should be kept in a covered jar, and will remain good for months. A tea-spoonful is generally sufficient to thicken a pint of gravy. Roux {sec Gravy, Bro- Ti Roux for Thickening). Rous, Brown. Dissolve half a pound of fresh butter, skim it well, let it stand for a minute, and pour it away from the impurities, which will settle to the bottom. Put the clear oily part into a saucepan over a slow fire, and shake into it about seven or eight ounces of fine flour, or as much as Avill make a thick paste. Stir constantly, and heat the preparation slowly and equally until it is very thick and of a bright brown colour. Put it into a jar, and stir a spoonful into soup or gravy as it is needed. A tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gTavy. Roux may be mixed with hot or cold stock. If cold stir it over the fire till it boils ; if hot, moisten the roux gradually with the stock, and off the fire to keep it from lumping. Roux, Brown, or Thickening {see Brown Roux). Roux, Brown, for Immediate Use. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan over a slow fire, and when it is dissolved shake into it an ounce and a half of dried flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until it has acquired a Hghtbrown colour ; this will take about ten minutes. Remove the roux from the fire for two minutes to cool, add a pint and a half of stock, stir this till it boils up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the sauce simmer tiU it is smooth and of a proper consistency. Roux, White. Proceed as above, but be careful to remove the paste from the fire before it has acquired any colour. Wliite roux is used for white sauces. Roux, White {sec Gravy, White Roux for Thickening. Rowan. The fruit of the rowan-tree or mountain-ash, when the bitter has been extracted by soaking it in water, may be made into a preserve which used to find favour in some parts of Scotland. Royal Children's Puddings. Slice a penny loaf, and pour upon it a pint and a haH of boiling milk. Let it stand till soft, then beat it lightly with a fork, and add a heaped table-spoonful of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg or any other flavouring, and four wellbeaten eggs. Half fill some small buttered tea-cups with the mixture, and bake the puddings in a well-heated oven. If liked, a slice of butter may be added, but its absence will render the puddings more digestible. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. Stifficient for five or six persons. Royal Fritters. Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan over the fire, and as it rises in the pan stir into it half a pint of light wine. Pour it out, and let it stand a few minutes to cool, skim off the curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it well with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated lernon-rind or any ether flavouring, three well-whisked eggs, and as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Fry the fritters in the usual way. Drain them well, and serve on a hot dish. Send cut lemons to table with the fritters. Royal Pastry. Take four ounces of sweet almonds ground or finely pounded, with three or four bitter ones, mix them with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and add as much white of egg as will make a smooth paste. Mix an ounce of finely-sifted sugar with half a pound of florn-. Rub four- ounces of fresh butter into this, and make it into paste by stiiTing into it the white of an egg beaten uj) with a little cold water. Roll this pastry out, spread the almond paste upon it, and stamp the two together into fancy shapes of any size. ROY ( 775 ) RUP Brush over with white of egg, and sprinkle chopped almonds thickly ever the cakes. Shake a httle sugar on the top of this. Put the cakes on a buttered baking-sheet, and hake in a moderately-heated oven. When done, the coating of almonds should he of a lightfawn colour. Remove the cakes carefully from the baking-sheet, and pile them in a pyramid upon a napkin. If liked, they can be ornamented with bright-coloured jelly of any kind. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. Royal Punch, (to be served hot). Put a quarter of a pound of doubly-refined sugar in large lumps into a bowl, and with it two limes and a. thin slice of fresh lemon. With a bruiser rub the sugar and the fruit well together, then mix thoroughly %vith two glassfuls of calf's foot jelly in a hot state. Take brandy, rum, an-ack, and curac oa in equal quantities, and stir them into the preparation. AVhen thoroughly mixed, add a pint of boiling green tea, and serve hot. The quantity of spirit must be regulated by taste; half a pint of each will generally be found sufficient. Royal Sauce for Fish. Beat two raw yolks of eggs with two ounces of fresh butter. Add gradually a tea-spoonful of elder vinegar, a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a tea-spoonful of soy, a pinch of cayenne, and a veiy small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the mixture into an earthen jar ; set this in a small saucepan of boiling water, and keep it boihng, stirring briskly all the time until the sauce begins to thicken and presents a rich smooth appearance ; be careful that it does not curdle, which it will quickly do if not taken from the fire as soon as it is smooth and thick. Time, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Royal Sauce for Turkeys and Fowls. Take the breast of a cold roast fowl, free it from skin, and pound it to paste in a mortar with a slice of bread which has been soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Add as much white stock as will make the paste smooth and of the consistency of custard, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simnier the sauce over a gentle fire. Let it cool, stir into it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up Avith half a cupful of cream, and stu' the sauce again over the fire, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. If liked, this sauce may be flavoured with five or six blanched and pounded almonds. Time altogether, about one hoirr. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold chicken. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Royans. These are fish of the .sardine family. They are not unlike sardines, but are smaller, more delicate in taste, and less oily. They should be very fresh. Royans, Broiled (a Bordeaux recipe). Take the fish, wipe them with a cloth, .squeeze firmly the tip of the tail. Sprinkle salt over thorn, and place them on a gridiron to broil over a brisk fire. As soon as the undermost side begins to whiten, turn the royans, and two minutes after send them to table. Fresh butter should be served separately. Ruby under Snow. Wash a quarter of a pint of tapioca, and let it soak for three or four hours in three-quai-ters of a pint of water, and with it the thin rind and strained juice of half a lemon. Take out the rind, and simmer the tapioca till it is clear, then mix with it six table-spoonfuls of red-cm-rant jelly. Let it simmer thi-ee or four minutes longer, and pour it into a large dish. When it is quite cold and stiff, pile upon it a little whipped cream, or, if preferred, the whites of two eggs beaten till firm, and sweetened and flavoured with lemonrind. This is a pretty and wholesome dish for a juvenile party. It should be made the day before it is wanted. If the whites of eggs are used they should be laid on at the last moment. Ruffs and Reeves. These little birds, of which the rufi: is the male and the reeve is the female, take their name from the long feathers which stand round the neck of the male bird, in appearance sUghtly resembling the ruifs worn by ladies. Ruffs are birds of passage, and are caught in traps, and v hen fattened on meal and milk are esteemed a great delicacy. They should not be drawn, and should be trussed like woodcook. To prepare them, i-un a small skewer through the thighs and pinions, lay over the bodies of the birds a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf, run them on a lark-spit, and put them down before a clear fire. Baste well with butter, and put a slice of toast in the tin under the birds to receive the drippiags from the trail. When done enough, dish them on the same toast with a little brown gravy under them, and more in a tureen. Garnish the dish with watercresses, and send bread sauce to table. Time to roast the birds, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost uncertain, ruffs being seldom offered for sale. Ruff, Fattening of the. " The ruff is taken for the ta'ble in spring, but young birds taken in autunm are much to be preferred. They ai-e often fattened after being taken, and are fed on bread and milk, with bruised hempseed. After being fattened they are sent to market. They feed readily when quite newly caught, and tight desperately for their food, unless supplied in separate dishes, which is therefore the regular practice of the feeders, who find it also advantageous to keep them ia darkened apartments. The ruff is gradually becoming scarcer in England, owing to the destiTiction of its favourite haunts, the fens, by drainage." Ruff or Pope. This fish spawns in April, and is in season all the year. Its excellence aa a fish for the table excited the enthusiasm of Dr. Kitchiner. The ruff is thus alluded to in Izaac Walton's famous " Complete Angler": "There is also another fish called a pope, and by some a ruff, a fish that is not known to be in some rivers. He is much hke the perch for his shape, and taken to be better than the perch, but will not grow to be bigger than a gudgeon ; he is an excellent fish ; no fish that swims is of a pleasanter taste, and he is also excellent to enter a young angler, for he is a greedy biter, and they will usually lie abundance of them together, in one reserved place where the water is deep and runs quietly ; and an ea.sy angler. RUG (776) RUM if he has found where they lie, may catch forty or fifty, or sometimes twice as many, at a standing." Ruglen Cream. This is another name sometimes given to the old-fashioned preparation named Corstorphine, the recipe for making which is given in another portion of this book. It is an open question whether the cream was originally made in Corstorphine, near Edinburgh, or in the borough of Rutherglen (whence Kuglen), in Lanarkshire. Rum. This well-known and much esteemed spirituous liquor is imported into this country from the West Indies, of which it is one of the staple products. It is obtained by means of fermentation and distillation from molasses, the refuse of the cane- juice, and portions of the cane, after the sugar has been extracted. The flavour and taste peculiar to rum are derived from the essential oils carried over in distillation. When the distillation has been carelessly performed, the spirit contains so large a quantity of the grosser and less volatile part of the oil as to be unfit for use till it has attained a considerable age. When it is weU rectified it mellows much sooner. Eum of a brownish transparent colour, smooth oily taste, strong body and consistence, good age, and well kept, is the best. That which is clear and liinpid, and has a hot pungent taste, is either too new or mixed with other spirits. Jamaica rum is the first in point of quality ; the Leeward Island rum, as it is called, being always inferior to it in flavour, strength, and value. The price of the latter is usually twenty per cent, below that of the former. We import almost all our rum in puncheons containing from eighty-four to ninety gallons each. It is customary, in some of the West India islands, to put spiced pine-apples in puncheons of rum ; this gives the spirit the flavour of the fruit ; and hence the designation pine-apple r tm. Eum is also produced in and imported from the Mauritius and the East Indies. But that of the latter is more nearly allied to arrack than to genuine rum. Rum is said to be much adulterated by the retail dealers in England, sometimes with corn spirit ; but if done with molasses spirit, the tastes of both are so nearly allied that the cheat is not easily discovered. McCulloch. Rum often has a deep-red coloirr, which is acquii'ed from molasses or caramel added for the purpose, and not from the wood of the casks, as is commonly supposed. Unlike other sjairits, rum tends to cause perspiration. It is greatly improved by age, and when very old is often highly prized. At a sale in Carlisle in I860, rum known to be a hundred and forty years old sold for three guineas a bottle. Rlim.-and-Milk. Rum-and-milk, the first thing in the morning or else twice a day, is strongly recommended as of the greatest service in cases of consumption. It is often almost as efiicacious as cod-Uver oil. It may be taken with bread-and-butter, as a meal, at breakfast and tea, if these times are preferred by the invalid. The usual quantities at each period are a tumblerful of rich milk, a table-spoonful of old rum, and a little sugar. Rum Blancmange. Rub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon eight good-sized lumps of sugar. Soak an ounce of gelatine in a cupful of milk, and when it is swollen pomupon it a pint of boiling milk or cream, or half milk and half cream. Stir it until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the lemon-flavoured sugar and the well-beaten yolks of five or more eggs mixed with an additional half prat of milk or cream. Stir the blancmange over the fire tiU it is quite hot, let it cool a iittle, then put with it four table-spoonfuls of rum, and a pinch of saffron dissolved in a table-spoonful of water, and continue stirring till it is almost cold. Pour it into a dam]) mould, and put it in a cool place till stiif. Squeeze the strained juice of a lemon over it before sending it to table. Time to prepare, about one hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, Is. 8d., exclusive of the rum. Sufiicient for a quart mould. Rum Cake. Take the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them up, and add three-quarters of a pint of cream, the same quantity of rum, and sugar to taste ; add also the grated peel of a lemon. Butter a form, pour the mixture in, and bake it tiU it is dry at the top ; the cake may be iced or only strewn with sifted sugar, and ornamented with preserved cherries, &c., or whipped cream may be laid on the top. Rum Ice. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three or four lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, and add as much sugar as will make up the weight to threequarters of a pound. Put this into a saucepan with a pint of cold water and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir the syrup over the fire, and when the sugar is dissolved, add gradually the whites of three eggs beaten till firm. Pour the preparation out before it begins to simmer, let it cool, add a quarter of a pint of old Jamaica rum, freeze in the usual way, and serve in glasses. Rum Jelly. Boil a pound of sugar to a clear syrup. Mix with this two ounces of clarified isinglass or gelatine, and add the juice of a lemon and a wine-glassful of fine old Jamaica rum. Pour the jelly into a damp mould, set it in ice or in a cool place till it is stiff, then turn it out, and serve. Rum Omelette. Beat three eggs in a bowl, and add a very small pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-powdered sugar, a slice of butter, and a table-spoonful of rum. Fry the omelette in the usual way. Lay it on a hot dish, and pour round it half a timiblerful of rum which has been warmed in a saucepan. Set light to this, and take the omelette to table with the flame rising round it. Sufficient for one or two persons. Rum Pudding. Grate three ounces of stale bread-crumbs, and pour over them as much rum as will moisten them. When they are well soaked, beat them iip with six ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and first the yolks, and afterwards the weU-whisked whites, of four eggs. Pour the mixtui-e into a buttered mould, and let it steam until done enough. Turn it upon a hot dish, pour half a tumblerful of rum over it, set light to this, and serve RUM (777) RUM immediately. Time to steam the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the rum. yufficient for three persons. Rum Shrub. This is a liqueiu- of which rum forms the alcoholic base ; the other materials are sugar, lime or lemon-juice, and the rind of these fruits added to give flavour. There are many recipes for the manufacture of rum shrub, almost every maker having his own, which he holds to be the best ever invented. Rum Shrub, To Make. To give one method of making rum shrub : Pour a pint of cold water over the rinds of two or three yeville oranges, and let them infuse for a day or two. Strain the liqueur, and boil it with two pounds of loaf sugar to syrup. Add a j int of strained Seville orange- juice and three pints of Jamaica rum. Filter the preparation, and bottle for use. Time, three days. Rumford.,Count,on Hasty-pudding. In regard to the most advantageous method of using Indian corn as food, I would strongly recommend, particularly when it is employed for feeding the poor, a dish made of it that is in the highest estimation throughout America, and which is really very good and very nourishing. This is called hasty-pudding, and it is made in the following manner : A quantity of water, proportioned to the quantity of hastypudding intended to be made, is put over the fire in an open iron pot or kettle, and, a proper quantity of salt for seasoning the pudding being previously dissolved in the water, Indian meal is stirred into it by little and little, with a wooden spoon with a long handle, while the water goes on to be heated and made to boil ; great care being taken to put in the meal by very small quantities, and by sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left hand, and stirring the water about very briskly at the same time with the wooden spoon with the right hand to mix the meal with the water in such a maimer as to prevent lumps being formed. The meal should be added so slowly that, when the water is brought to boil, the mass should not be thicker than water-gruel, and half an hour more at least should be employed to add the additional quantity of meal necessary for bringing the pudding to be of the proper consistence, dm-ing which time it should be stii-red about continually and kept boiling. The method of detennining when the pudding has acquired the proper consistency is this : The wooden spoon used for stirring it being placed in the middle of the kettle, if it falls down more meal may be added, but if the pudding is sufificiontly thick and adhesive to support it in a vertical position, it is declared to be proof, and no more meal is added. If the boiling, instead of being continued only half an hour, be prolonged to three-quarters of an hour or an hour, the pudding will be considerably improved by the prolongation. [ The hasty-pudding, when done, may be eaten j in various ways. It may be put, while hot, by spoonfuls into a bowl of milk, and eaten with the milk -nath a spoon in lieu of bread; and used in this way it is remarkaldy palatable. It may likewise be eaten, while hot, with a sauce composed of butter and brown sugar, or butter \ and molasses, with or without a few drops 52 of vinegar ; and however people who have not been accustomed to this American cookery may be prejudiced against it, they will find upon trial that it makes a most excellent dish, and one which never fails to be much liked by those who are accustomed to it. ' The universal fondness of Americans for it proves that it must have some merit ; for, in a country which produces aU the delicacies of the table in the greatest abundance, it is not to be supposed that a whole nation should have a taste so depraved as to give a decided preference to any particular species of food which has not something to recommend it. The manner in which hasty-pudding is eaten with butter and sugar, or butter and molasses, in America, is as follows: The hasty-pudding being spread out equally upon a plate while hot, an excavation is made in the middle of it with a spoon, into which excavation a piece of butter as large as a nutmeg is put, and upon it a spoonful of brown sugar, or, more commonly, of molasses. The butter, being soon melted by the heat of the pudding, mixes with the sugar or molasses, and fonns a sauce, which, being confined to the excavation made for it, occupies the middle of the plate. The pudding is then eaten with a spoon, each spoonful of it being dipped into the sauce before it is carried to the mouth, care being had in taking it up to begin at the outside or near the rim of the plate, and to approach the centre by gradual advances, in order not to demolish too soon the excavation which fomis the reservoir for the sauce. "An Essay on Food," by Count Rumford. Rumford's Plain Indian Pudding. "This pudding," says Count Eumford in his "Essay on Food," "which was allowed by competent judges who tasted it to be as good as they had ever eaten, was composed and prepared in the following manner: -Three pounds of Indian meal (from which the bran had been separated by sifting it in a common hair sieve) were put into a large bowl, and five pints of boiling water were put to it, and the whole well stiiTed together ; three-quarters of a pound of molasses and one ounce of salt were then added to it, and these being well mixed, by stirring them with the other ingredients, the i udding was poured into a fit bag, and the bag beingtied up (an empty space being left in the bag in tjdng it, equal to about one-sixth of its contents, for giving room to the pudding to swell), this pudding was put into a kettle of boiling water, and was boiled six hours without intermission ; the loss of water in the kettle by evaporation during this time being frequently replaced with boiling water from another kettle. The pudding, upon being taken out of the bag, weighed ten pounds and one ounce; and it was found to be perfectly done, not ha\-ing the smallest remains of that raw taste so disagreeable to aU palates, and particularly to those who are not used to it, which always predominates in dishes prepared of Indian meal when they are not sufficiently cooked." Rumfustian. Whisk up the yolks of six eggs until they are well frothed, and put them into a quart of strong beer, to which is added a pint of gin; boil up a bottle of sherry in a BUM (778) RUM saucepan with a stick of cianamon or nutmeg grated, a dozen large lumps of sugar, and the rind of a lemon peeled thin. When the wine boils, pour it over the ale and gin. Drink hot. Rump Steak. Rump steak is at its best from September to March, and should be cut from meat that has been hung thi-ee or four days to make it tender, though it should not be cut from the rump until it is required. It is a prime part of the meat, and when good is superior to any other in tenderness and delicacy of flavour. French cooks almost always prefer steaks from the fillet or inside of the sirloin, but many good judges consider these steaks are insipid and flavourless compared with good rump steak. Rump steak may be cooked in several different ways, the recipes for which will be found under " Beef." As it always fetches a high price, other steak, such as buttock or chuck steak, may be advantageously used for stewing, or for pies, and if carefully cut will give entire satisfaction. It is worth knowing that many butchers sell the first cut of the rump for 2d. or 3d. less per pound than the other portions, and if this is washed quickly, and dried, it is quite as good as the rest. Probable cost. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Rump Steak, Baked, with Onions. Take about two pounds of well-hung tender steak, and fry it in hot fat till it is lightly and equally browned. Take it up, put it in an earthenware dish which has a closely-fitting lid, and pour over it a pint of stock made from bones. Add two moderate-sized onions which have-been boiled till tender, two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's Sauce or walnut ketchup, two cloves, and a little salt and cayenne. Cover the dish, and bake the steak gently till done enough. Take it up, lay round it an onion, sliced, divided into rings, and fried ; and strain over it the gravy in the baking-dish. Serve very hot. Time to bake, two hoirrs. Probable cost, about 3s. 8d. Sufiicient for fom* or five persons. Rump Steak, Broiled {see Beef Steak, Rump) . Rump Steak, Broiled, Accompaniments to. Many epicures prefer broiled steak plain, that is, dredged lightly with pepper before it is broiled, and served on a hot dish with fresh butter under and over it. As a variety to flavour it, half a lemon may be squeezed over the steak, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's Sauce poured on it, or a little maitre d'hotel or anchovy butter may be rubbed over it as soon as it is done, or fried onion or fried potatoes may be used to garnish the dish, or oyster, mushroom, tomato, or onion sauce may be served in a tureen, or stewed cucumbers may be sent to table separately. Rump Steak, Broiled, with Onion G-ravy. Put two Spanish onions, sliced, into a saucepan with half a table-spoonful of stock or water. Let them stew gently until the water has boiled away and they are a little coloured, then pour over them half a pint of stock and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer till tender. Lift them out of the gravy, mince finely, then return them to the gravy. Add a table-spoonful of mushroomketchup, and boil the gravy for five minutes. Put it on a hot dish, lay a broiled steak upon it {see Beef Steak, Rump), and serve hot. Time to make the gravy, about half an hour. Rump Steak, Neapolitan (excellent). Take two pounds of tender rump steak an inch and a haK thick. Fry it in hot fat until it is brightly and equally browned, take it up, and in the same fat fry two thinly-sliced onions. Put the steak into an earthen dish, lay the onion upon it, pour over it as much broth as wiU barely cover it, and add two pickled gherkins finely minced, two sticks of celery, four cloves, a little salt and cayenne, and a glassful of port or claret. Cover the pan closely, and put it in a moderately-heated oven till the steak is half cooked, then add a turnip and a carrot cut in halves. When these are sufiiciontly cooked, hft out the steak, laj it on a hot dish, strain the gravy over it, cut the carrot and turnip into dice, and sprinkle them, upon it. Serve immediately. Time to bake the steak, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. vSufficient for five or six persons. Rump Steak, Piquant Sauce for. Put a wine-glassful of ale into a small saucepan, wdth a wine-glassful of claret, a wine-glassful of ketchup or Harvey's Sauce, a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar, and an ounce of fresh butter. Stir the mixture over the fire till it is thoroughly heated, and serve poured hot upon the steak. Time, five or six minutes. Rump Steak Pudding. Cut about two pounds of tender rump steak into pieces an inch and a half square, and season these with a dessert- spoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Line a shallow, thickrinuned pudding-basin, well buttered, with good suet crust half an inch thick, and leave about an inch of pastry over the edge. Lay in the steak, and add a quarter of a pint of stock, gravy, or water. Cover the meat with a circular piece of pastry, moisten the edge of the pastry that was left over, press it closely, and tie the basin rather loosely in a cloth which has been wrung out of boiUng water and floirred. Plunge the pudding into boihng water, and keejD it boiling quickly until done enough. Either serve it in the basin, round which a napkin has been tied, or turn it carefully upon a hot dish, after allowing it to stand five minutes. If liked, a circular piece of pastry may be cut out of the top of the pudding and a slice of butter put into it to enrich the gravy. This pudding will be very much improved if half a pound of ox kidney cut up small, a dozen and a half of oysters, and six or eight larks, are put into it with the beef. Time to boU, four to five hours. Probable cost, when made with steak only, 3s. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rump Steak, Savoury. Cut the rump steak three-quarters of an inch thick, trim it neatly, and brush it over with oil. Broil as already directed in the recipe Beef Steak, Rump. Have ready two finely-minced shallots and the RTTM (779) RUS strained juice of a lemon. Lay ths steak on the dish, pour the juice over, and sprinkle the minced shallot upon it. Servo very hot, with fried potatoes round the dish. Rump Steak, Stewed, No. i. Take a slice of tender rump steak an inch and a half thick. Fry this in hot fat till it is equally and lightly browned. Put it into a saucepan, pour over it as much stock or water as will cover it, and add an onion stuck with six cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew as gently as possible for three hours. Take it up, strain the gravy, thicken with flour or roux, and add a spoonful of walnut or mushroom ketchup, if necessary. Serve on a hot dish, and sijrinkle over it some pickled cucumber or pickled gherkins finely minced. No. 2. Take a slice of tender rump steak three-quarters of an inch thick. Fry this in butter or hot fat till it is lightly browned, and pour over it as much good gravy or stock as wiU barely cover it. Add a tea-spoonful of freshly-made mustard, a Little pepper and salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Let the sauce boil up quickly, then put the pan at the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible for one hour or more. Fry in hot fat till lightly browned twelve button mushrooms, twelve small onions, a carrot, a turnip, and two or thi-ee sticks of celery, all cut small. Put these into the saucepan, and let all continue simmering till the vegetables are tender. Thicken the gravy with a spoonful of brown thickening; when it is smooth add a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, the strained juice of a lemon, and a glassful of port or claret. Serve very hot. Probable cost, rump steak. Is. -id. to Is. 6d. per pound. Rump Steak, Stewed, with Onions. Take a pound of tender rump steak, and dredge pepper and a little salt over it. Butter a saucepan which has a tightly-fitting lid very thickly ; or, if preferred, rub it over with good beef dripping. Lay the steak in it, add two large Spanish onions thinly sliced, and an ounce of butter or dripping. Cover the saucepan closely, and put it by the side of the fire to steam as gently as possible for tv o hom's and a half. Take it up, lay the steak upon a dish, put the onions upon it, and serve immediately. It will be foimd that sufficient moisture has exuded from the onions to make gray\% although no liquor was put into the pan. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rump Steak, Stewed, with Oysters, Take a slice of rump steak thi-ee quarters of an inch thick, weighing about 2; pounds. Rub this well on both sides with a savoury mixture made of a minced onion, three salt-spoonfuls of salt, as much summer savoury as will lie on a sixpence, and fry it in hot fat till lightly bro- Tied. Lay it in a saucepan with threequarters of a pint of water, and add a clove, two allspice, a blade of mace, and the liquor from two dozen oysters. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the steak simmer gently till it is tender. Take out the steak, strain the gravy, and thicken with a little brown thickening or : flour and butter. Let it boil till smooth. Put I back the steak and the oysters bearded, let them simmer for five minutes, and then serve. They must on no account boil. When expense is a consideration, tinned oysters may be used for tliis dish instead of fresh ones. Time, one and a half to two hours. Probable cost, rump steak. Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six jjersons. Rump Steak, Stewed, with Piquant Sauce. Take a poimd and a half of tender steak an inch thick, and fry this in hot fat till it is lightly and equally browned. Take it up, put it into a saucepan which has been twice rubbed across with garlic, and pour over it a quarter of a pint of good gravy. Add the strained juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of grated horseradish, a tea-spoonful of finely minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew gently for an hour. Peel and mince finely two small mushrooms, and a truffle, if it can be had. If not, use four- mushrooms. Simmer them quickly in two table-spoonfuls of vinegar for ten minutes. Add them to the steak, simmer aU gently together for half an hornlonger, and serve. Time, nearly two hours. Probable cost, rump steak. Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rump Steak, Stuffed. Take two pounds of well-hung steak cut in one piece, and three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay it on a table, and spread upon it a quarter of a pint of good veal stuffing. Roll it round, and tie it with twine, fastening the ends secnrely. Dissolve a table-spoonful of bacon fat in a saucepan, put in the rolled steak, and turn it about till it is equally browned aU over. Poirr upon it threequarters of a pint of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and let the steak stew gently until tender. Lay the meat in a hot dish, and remove the twine. Thicken the gravy, pour it over the beef, and serve very hot. Time to stew the steak, two hours. Probable cost, rump steak, Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rump Steaks, Gravy for. Pour the fat out of the pan, dredge the pan vsdth flour, let it brown a little, and then put into it one ounce of butter; rub and mix the butter and flour well together in the pan, and when it is a little bro'wn reduce it to the thickness of cream, by mixing gradually with it a little boiling water, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and haK a tea-spoonful of pepper, and salt to taste ; keep stirring it weU tiU the sauce boils for a minute or two, and then pour it over the steaks through a sieve. The steaks may be garnished with a few sprigs of parsley, or with scraped horseradish ; they are mostly served up without any other sauce than the above, but some families eat them with oyster sauce or mushroom sauce. Rush- Nut (the root of the Cyprus escuIcntm). This is a favourite article of diet in some parts of Italy. It is not only a substitute for the chestnut, but more delicately and RUS (780) RUS pleasantly tasted than that nut. Some British ti;avellers have refused it, helieving it to be deleterious ; hut we can assure them that there is no necessity for starving when a dish of rushnut can he procured, and that it is not only safe, hut, when properly prepared, an agreeable article of diet. It might he introduced into Britain with little trouble. i r. Andrew. Rusk Cake. Crush a quarter of a pound of rusks to powder, and pass them through a colander. Beat the yolks of seven eggs till light, and add sLx ounces of powdered white sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, three cloves powdered, and three ounces of blanched and pounded ahnonds. Beat the ingredients briskly together for twenty minutes. Add the powdered rusks, a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, and, lastly, the whites of all the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put it into a buttered mould, and bake immediately. In order to ascertain whether or not the cake is done enough, try it with a skewer in the ordinary way, but do not do this until the cake looks firm, as it will he all the nicer if it is not moved about during the baking. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Rusk Pudding. Take three ounces of thin rusks. Spread a little jam between every two, and press them closely together. Arrange them neatly in a buttered mould, and pour over them a custard made with a pint of milk (or half milk and half cream), the yolks of four eggs, and a little sugar and flavouring. Let the rusks soak for an hour, then steam the pudding, and when done enough serve on a hot dish with wine or arrowroot sauce poured round it. Time to steam the pudding, about two hours. Probable cost, if made with milk,. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rusk Pudding (another way). Sweeten a pint of milk, and flavour it with lemonrind or cinnamon. Arrange three or four rusks in a buttered basin, and pour the milk over them; let them soak for half an hour. Whisk two eggs, and boat them up with the rusks ; then add a pinch of salt and a sUce of fresh butter. Lay a buttered paper over the basin, which must be quite full, tie it in a floured cloth, and plunge it into fast-boiling water. Boil it quickly until done enough. Move it about two or three times during the first half of boiling. AVhen done enough, turn it upon a hot dish, and serve with sweet sauce or wine sauce. If liked, candied peel, stoned raisins, or washed currants may be mixed with the pudding. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or sbc persons. Rusks. No. 1. Put two pounds of flouiinto a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt and six ounces of powdered sugar (if the rusks are intended for cheese the sugar should be omitted). Dissolve four ounces of butter in half a pint of hot milk. Add six well-beaten eggs, and two table -spoonfuls of yeast, and with" this liquor work the flour into a smooth dough. Cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When light knead it, and divide into small cakes the size of an orange. Lay these closely together in a buttered pan, and bake in a brisk oven. When done enough, take them out, break them in halves, and place them again in the oven to get crisp on the other side. When cold keep them closely packed in tin canisters. Time to bake, altogether about half an hour. No. 2. Warm half a pint of milk, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of good yeast. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt and three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Make a hollow in the flour, but not so deep as to lay bare the bottom of the bowl, and stir in the yeast and milk to make a thin batter. Shred a quarter of a pound of butter into the flour, cover the bowl, and leave it in a warm place imtil the batter rises in bubbles. Work all lightly together until the dough no longer sticks to the hand, then let it rise again until the surface cracks. Divide the dough into rolls six inches long and two broad, lay these side by side on a buttered tin, and set them before the fire for a few minutes to rise. Bake in a quick oven. "When done enough, tear them into halves, and put them again into the oven tiU they are crisp. A table-spoonful of aniseed may be worked into the rusks, if liked, and they will then be good for infants' food. No. 3. Stir two ounces of butter in half a pint of warm milk until dissolved, add a table-spoonful of yeast and two well-beaten eggs. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of powdered sugar. j\Iake a hole in the centre, pour in the eggs and milk, and beat in as much. flour from the side as will make a thin batter. Sprinkle a little flour over this, cover the bowl with a cloth, and leave the preparation to rise until the bubbles show themselves through the flour ; this will be in about an hour. Knead the whole into a firm dough, divide it into small cakes a little larger than an egg, and let these rise on the baking-tins for another hour. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven, and when cool put them in a warm screen to dry for half an hour. Store in tins in a dry place. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Rusks (another way) . Take four eggs, half a pint each of new milk and warm water, quarter of a poimd of melted-butter, quarter of a pound of sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of yeast. Beat these ingi-edients together with as much flour, added gradually, as will make a very light paste. Let it rise for half an hour before the fire, then add a little more flour, and form into small cakes or loaves five or six inches wide; flatten the cakes, bake them moderately, and when cold cut them into slices the size of rusks, and put them into the oven to brown a little. This is a nice tea-cake to eat hot, or, with carraways, to eat cold. Rusks (another way). Take four pounds of flour, six ounces of Id utter, four ounces of loaf sugar, and one quart of milk. Ferment and make into a dough as for buns, weigh it in l ieces of one pound, one pound and a half, or two pounds each, and make it into long even rolls five or six inches in circumference ; let these be quite straight and square at the ends, place them on buttered tins, so that they may BUS (781 ) BUS not touch each other, flatten them a little with your hand, and prove them ; when they are near proof, prick them several times along the top with a fork or small piece of wire, which will prevent the top crust or rind coming off ; bake them in a moderate oven. When they are a day or two old cut them crossway into thin slices with a sharp knife, lay them on clean tins close to each other, and put them in a brisk oven ; when they are nicely coloured take them out, turn them on the other side, put them in again, and when coloured they are done. Dr. Franklin remarks, in his maritime observations, that this is the true original biscuit, so prepared to keep for sea, being twice baked, as its name imports. Read. Busks, Bread, for* Breakfast. Take some hot rolls, tear them in halves, and put them in a moderate oven to crisp and brown. Serve with cocoa. Busks made with Sour Cream. Rub five ounces of butter into a pound of flour till it is as fine as oatmeal. Add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and two ounces of candied peel finely shred. Work this into a smooth lithe dough with two wellbeaten eggs and a little more than half a pint of thick sour cream. At the last moment before baking the cakes add half a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda mixed with a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar and a tea-spoonfid of flour. Divide the dough into two or three cakes, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is done enough, take it out of the oven, tear it in halves, and put it back again to crisp. Of course the cream must not be in the least putrid when it is used. Time to bake, forty to fifty minutes. Busks, Plain. Cut loaves of bread into slices, and bake them in a slow oven to the proper colour. Busks, Sweet. Take a stale Savoy cake, lemon cake, or pound cake, cut it into slices, and di-vide these into pieces about two inches square. Place these on a baking-tin, and put them into a cool oven to dry. Vhen they are crisp and brown they are done enough. Store in a tin box in a dry place. j Busks, Tea. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful "of saleratus and a tea-spoonful of salt in a spoonful of hot water. Stir in this with a pint of warm milk and half a quarter of a pint of brewer's yeast. Put the liquor into a bowl, and stir into it as much fine flour as will make a soft lithe dough. Knead this thoroughly, cover the bowl -wdth a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise. It will be light in a couple of hours. Work into the dough two table- spoonfuls of sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter dissolved, but not hot. Flour the hands thoroughly, and make the dough up into small cakes the size of an orange, lay these side by side in a buttered pan, brush the tops over with milk, and bake in a quick oven. Serve hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Busks with Jam. Pour a pint of boiling milk sweetened and flavoured over five or six rusks in a pie-dish. Let them soak for ten minutes, then beat them lightly with a fork, and spread upon them a layer of good jam. Pour upon this some custard made with a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, and a little sugar and flavouring. Leave the preparation till cold, sift powdered sugar over it, or lay upon it the whites of the eggs beaten to foam, .and serve. Time, three quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Bussian Cabbage Soup. This ancient Russian national dish known as schstc ii enjoys an inunense reputation. There are many ways of preparing it. The following is one of the best known: Take six or eight white cabbages shredded, half a jiound of pearl barley, a quarter of a pound of butter, a handful of salt, and two pounds of mutton cut into small pieces, with two quarts of Kvas or broth. The meat, salted for thirty-six hours, is put into a press, ciit in small pieces, and not thrown into the pot till the cabbage has boiled. Some artichokes cut into four are added, and when the whole is dished three spoonfuls of thick cream are poured over it. The soup is sometimes made with oil instead of butter, and with fish instead of meat, usually during the fasts. Bussian Cakes. Make a batter by whisking together the yolks of five eggs and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Add gradually three ounces of di'ied flour, two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, a drachm of aniseed, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Bake the batter in strong paper cases nearly a foot long and a quarter of a foot wide and deep. AVhen they are sufficiently baked, let them get cold, then cut them into thin shces, and put them again into the oven till they are crisp. Bussian Charlotte. Trim off the ends of eighteen or twenty Savoy biscuits perfectly straight, line the bottom and sides of a mould with them, and take care to join them perfectlj', so that the contents of the charlotte cannot escape. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in three-quarters of a pint of new milk, sweeten the preparation, flavour it agreeably, stir over a gentle fire for twelve minutes, and mix it with a rich custard made with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of cream. Add three-quarters of a pint of whipped cream, and stir the whole till the cream begins to thicken. Place the lined mould in ice, fill it with cream, and let it remain in ice until firm. When it is wanted, turn it out carefully upon a glass dish, and serv e. If the mould cannot easily be turned out, plunge it into hot water for a moment. Probable cost, 4 s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Bussian Charlotte (another way). Take some biscuits a la cuillere. These are made the same as sponge biscuits. Instead of being baked in frames or in a form, they are made into thin cakes about two inches wide and four or five long ; they are then baked on wafer-paper, the top being glazed with sugar sifted through a tamis. They should be balced in a very moderate oven. Line a form at the sides and bottom with them, placing BUS (782) BUS them so close together that no space remains hetween; fill the centre \vith a whipped cream or a fromage ; turn the charlotte out into a dish, and send at once to tafele. It should not be kept long unless on ice. Russian Charlotte with Apples. Take some biscuits a la cuillere {nee the preceding recipe). Line a form with them, placing them as close as possible, so that they may form a complete case. Peel and slice a dozen apples, and stew them in a little butter. Fill the form with the apples, leaving a space in the centre. Fill this space with a marmalade of apricots, cherries, or quinces. Turn out the charlotte on a dish, and serve cold. Russian Jelly. Take the remains of jelly of any kind, put it in a bowl, and set it in a pan of hot water until dissolved. Put the basin upon ice, and whisk the jelly briskly till it begins to stiffen and form a creamy froth, then poui' it at once into a mould set in ice. When it is firm tui-n it out. When convenient, two or three kinds of jelly appropriately flavoured can be mixed together. Russian mode of Preserving Fruit. A method of preserving fruit, in extensive use in Russia, consists in moistening quicklime with water containing a little creosote, so as to cause it to fall into powder. The fruit is packed in a wooden box, the bottom of which is filled in to the depth of an inch with the lime. The stratum is covered with a sheet of paper, and the fruit laid upon this, each piece by itself, so that no one touches another. A sheet of paper is placed on the top of this layer of fruit and then a second layer of lime is sifted in. In this way lime, paper, and fruit alternately till the box is filled. The corners are then filled with finely-powdered charcoal. By covering the box with a tightly-fitting top, the fruit can, it is said, be kept fresh for at least a year. Russian Polony. Russian polony should be made of hard old Belfast hams, which are easily procured, and from beef, which is to be prepared in the following manner : Take a smaU round, or part of a large one, of ox beef (for the udder of the cow cannot be used here) ; rub it all over with conunon salt, and scatter more under and over it ; so let it lie four days. Then wipe it, and put it into the following pickle, in a deep pan : Water that has boiled . 1 gallon Common salt . . . 2 lbs. Saltpetre . . . . 2 ounces Bay-salt .... 2 lbs. Let it lie fourteen days more covered with pickle. Take it out and wipe it well; tie string roimd it, and hang it to smoke for twenty days in a powerful smoke, turning it often ; and when taken from the chimney hang it in a warm dry roota three weeks longer to harden. Take then an equal weight of ham and beef, and cut off all the hard fat, which put aside. Cut up the meat in small pieces, and leave no skinny or fibrous parts in it. Beat, each separately in a mortar until very fine, and work it into a consistence; being completely mixed, add finely-ground black pepper, and then cut your hard fat up into small squares the size of a pea, and mix these generally and equally throughout the mass. Dissolve gum-dragon so that it is very thick, and work it amongst the meat until the paste has become just soft enough to stuff the skins, which must be the largest you can get, and, taken from largo oxen. Great care must be taken in filling them, so that the meat may soon be united into a solid mass, which can only be effected by force ; the skins must then be well tied up, and himg to dry ; they must be smoked for a fortnight, and kept three months in a dry closet. Russian Salad. Cut some carrots, turnips, parsnips, and beetroot into strips with a scoop. Add, if liked, other vegetables, such as asparagus, peas, French beans, gherkins, capers, scraped horseradish, &c. &c. Put the vegetables in a salad-dish in layers, season each layer with mayonnaise or Tartar sauce, and gradually diminish the size of the layers, till the salad comes to a point. Ornament with a border of aspic jelly, picked prawns, olives, or gherkins, and garnish the surface with small balls of ca aare. Russian Sauce. Dissolve a slice of butter in a small saucepan, and add two ounces of lean undressed ham cut iuto dice, four minced shallots, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a spoonful of chopped parsley, two table-spoonfuls of scraped horseradish, a dessert- spoonful of sugar, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a wine-glassful of \'inegar, and the same of light wine. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents steam gently for a-quarter of an hour-. Add half a pint of good white sauce and the yolks of four eggs. Stir the sauce over the fire till it begius to thicken, and strain through a sieve for use. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added, and care must be taken not to put them into it until partially cooled. Time, about forty minutes to prepare the sauce. Russian Sauce (another way). Take four spoonfuls of grated horseradish ; two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, a salt-si)oonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and as much vinegar as will just cover the ingredients. This is a good sauce for all kinds of cold meat, and when added to melted butter makes a good fish sauce. Russian Soup. Take about two quarts of good bi-own soup nicely flavoured, and pour this, when ready for serving, into the tureen over three ounces of dressed ham finely shred and some small sausages already fried and drained thoroughly from fat. The soup may be made as follows : Chop two Spanish onions, and mix vith them the whole heart of a cabbage finely shred. Fry the mixture in a little butter till the vegetables are lightly browned, dredge two ounces of flour over them, and moisten the paste with about three pints of good stock. Add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; let the soup boil once, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer for half an hour or more, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Add a glassful of light wine and a spoonful of coarsely-shred tarragon or chervil, and the soup will be ready for serving. Time, about an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. RUS ( 783 ) RYE Russian Tea. Take a quart of milk, and set it on the fire. Whenever it boils throw in a large tea-spoonful of the best tea ; let it boil some minutes, strain, add sugar to taste, set it again on the fire, and when it boils add a liaison of eggs. This is a highly-approved remedy for a cold. Russian Zakouski. " What is in Eussia called zakouski," says M. Dubois, in his able " Cosmopolitan Cookery," is nothing but those cold hors (V cent' re which the Russians are accustomed to take before sitting do\\Ti to dinner. These dishes are generally composed of sandwiches {canapes) prepared with herrings, smoked salmon, ancho-ides, caviare, eggs boiled hard and chopped. But besides these canapes, commonly some soused or pickled fish is served, or crayfish tails, little tartlets, pickles, ogursis, smoked breast of goose cut into thin slices. " All these dainties are served on a little table, where also several kinds of liqueurs and little glasses are kept ready; the liqueurs general being Dantzig brandy, arrack, kiimmel, and cognac. The zakouskis are partaken of but a few minutes pre'saous to taking dinner, but without sitting down. In the Petersburg hotels the zakouski table is a fixture." Ruthven Cake. Heat three pints of milk, and stir into this, imtil dissolved, eight ounces of fresh butter. Let the liquor cool, then mix with it a quarter of a stone of flom*, six oimces of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the thin rind of two lemons finely minced, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a pound of picked and di-ied currants, six well-beaten eggs, and three large spoonfuls of fresh yeast. Knead the mixture thoroughly to a smooth dough. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. It will take about three hours. Put the dough into buttered tins, and bake these in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 7d. per cake. Sufficient for two good-sized cakes. Rye. This species of grain is much more hardy but incalculably less valuable in every respect than wheat. It has been cultivated from time immemorial, and is supposed to be a native of the Caspian Caucasian desert. In Britain it is very Kttle used as an article of food compared with wheat and oats, though in the north of Europe and in Flanders it forms a principal article of human subsistence, but generally mixed with wheat, and sometimes also with barley. The cultivation of rye does not extend so far north as that of barley, but it grows in regions too cold for wheat, and on soils too poor and sandy for any other grain. Its ripening can also be more confidently depended on in cold regions than that of any other gi-ain. But rye, it should be observed, succeeds best, and is most productive, in a climate where wheat ripens. It delights in sandy soil. Rye and Indian Meal, Bread of. "The proportions of rye and com-mcal used," says an American vrriter, " may be varied according to the taste. If the largest proportion of rye is used, make the dough stiff; if the largest proportion of corn-meal, make the dough softer. The greater the pi'oportion of com-meal, the longer the bread requires baking. The best way to mix the dough is to put the com-meal into a glazed earthen i)an, sprinkle salt over it, pour on boiling water, work it till thoroughly wet, and when about milk-warni add the rye-flour with the yeast, and as much more warm, but not hot, water as is required. Work the dough until stiff, but not so stiff as flour dough. Put it then into a deep greased pan, put j-our hand in wann water, and pat down the top, set it to rise in a warm place by the stove in -wdnter, but in the sim in summer. A\Tien it begins to crack on the top, w hich will be in an houi- or an hour and a half, put in a well-heated oven. To make the bread twothirds of corn-meal, take four quarts of sifted com-meal, sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt over it, and pour over it two quarts of boiling water, as directed above ; when lukewarm add two quarts of rye-meal, half a pint of lively yeast mixed in a pint of wai-m water ; add more water if necessary. Bake two or three hours. This makes a loaf weighing seven or eight pounds.' ' Rye as a Substitute for Coffee. " Rye," says an old collection of recipes, " will be found a wholesome and economical substitute for coffee. It must first be well cleaned, and boiled till it becomes soft, care being taken that it does not bm-st, and then put to dry in the Sim or in an oven, and afterwards burnt and ground like coffee. To use it, take as much water as it is wished to have cups of coffee, and boil and strain it, adding a third of real coffee ; and the whole will resemble pure coffee from the Indies, and not require so much sugar as the conunon sort." Rye Batter Cakes. Mix as much lukewarm milk with a pint of rye-meal as will make a thin batter. Beat this well, add a little salt and a quarter of a pint of home-made yeast. Let the dough rise, then bake the cakes on a griddle. Or take from the risen dough made for rye bread as much as will make a small loaf. Work into this a quarter of a pound of good dripping or butter, make the dough into a flat cake an inch thick, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes or more. Rye Bread. Late in the evening, pour a quart of warm water into a large bowl, and stir into this as much flour as will make a smooth batter. Cover the bowl vnth. a cloth, set it in a warm place, and let the sponge rise. In the morning, put into another bowl three pounds and a half of rye-flour. Scoop a hoUow in the centre, pour in the sponge, add a sjioonful of salt and a small piece of saleratus dissolved in a spoonful of waim water, and knead the dough thoroughly till it no longer sticks to the bowl and the hands. In kneading it, add a little more warm water if necessary. Cover the bowl, and let the dough rise for three hours, or till it is light ; make it up into loaves, and bake these in a quick oven. Time to bake, three quarters of an hour to one hour, according to the size of the loaves. Rye Bread (another way). "Rye," saj's Miss Acton, in her " English Bread Book,'* SYE (784) SAC *' does not seem to be regarded with much favour in England, as little is gro\ Ti here, and the imported supplies are very scanty, compared with those of all other grain ; yet, from the positive amount of nutriment which it affords, it stands next in value to wheat, and makes excellent bread in combination with wheat-meal or flour. It ferments easily, is considered by many persons as of peculiarly agreeable flavour (to others its sweetness is sometimes an objection) ; it keeps well, is wholesome, and economical also. The hlack bread of Germany and other parts of Europe is composed of rye only ground into coarse meal, and fermented often by means of leaven (or dough left from a previous baking and become slightly sour), which is an unfavourable mode of fabricating it, because rye has a tendency to pass quickly into what is termed the acetous state of fermentation, and requires to be carefully watched and skUfuUy managed to prevent the bread made of it from acquiring an acid taste. When the Jlour of rye is mixed with half or two-thirds as much of wheat-flour, the dough may be prepared in the ordinary manner, rather less time in warm weather being allowed for its rising." Rye-bread in Holland. In Holland two sorts of rye-bread are eaten, the one handmade, the other manufactured by machinery. The latter is preferred by the wealthier classes : it is of a dark colour, and has an odour not imhke gingerbread. The working classes, on the other hand, like hand-made rye-bread best, because it is whiter a popular taste which finds its counterpart in this country. There is no real difference in the quality of the rye, but there is in the baking, the hand-made bread being left in the oven for twenty-four hours, while the machine-made is left for twice that time. Rye Drop Cakes. Mix together a quart of milk, two I'ggs well beaten, a piece of butter as large as an egg, one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, half a cupful of white sugar, and enough rj e-meal to make a thick batter. Bake for half an hour. Rye-meal Mush (an American recipe). Stir fresh-ground rye gradually into boiling water into which a little salt has been thrown. Let the preparation boil for about an hour. Rye, Nutritive Properties of. Rye and barley resemble the grain of wheat very much in composition and nutritive quality. They differ from it somewhat in flavour and colour, and do not make so fair and spongy a bread. They are not generally preferred, therefore, in countries where wheat and other grains thrive and ripen. Two samples of newly-baked wheat and rye bread, made and examined under the same circumstances, were found to consist respectively of Wheaten bread. Eye bread. Water .... 48 48i Gluten . . . . 5 o Starch, &c. . . . 46 46 i 100 100 So that in composition and nutritive qualitj"these two kinds of bread very closely resembled each other, and, except as concerns our taste, it is a matter of indifference whether we live on the one or the other. Rye bread possesses one quality which is in some respects a valuable one : it retains its freshness and moisture for a longer time than wheaten bread, and can be kept for months without becoming hard, dry, and unpalatable. This arises principally from certain peculiar properties possessed by the variety of gluten which exists in the grain of rye. Johnston. Rye, Wholesomeness of. In those unaccustomed to its use, rye is apt to cause an acescent state of the stomach and diarrhoea. The grain is liable to a disease caUed ergot, which depends on a fungus which attacks and alters the character of the grain. Ergotted or spuiTcd rye is poisonous when it is baked into bread. It causes febrile symptoms, great debility, often pai alysis, tumours, abscesses, gangrene, and death. Some of the epidemics which have occasionally nearly depopulated the north of Europe have been traced to the use of the spui-red rye. Sabotiere. "An apparatus for making ices : it is composed of two principal parts a pail, which is indented towards the top and covered, and the sabotiere, or inner vessel, slightly conical, which is inserted in the pail, on which it rests by a projecting border or rim ; this vessel is closed at the bottom like a cup, and open at the top to admit the creams to be iced. The freezing mixture is turned into the pail, and the creams to be iced into the inner vessel ; its cover is then fastened by the hook, and the vessel is set into the pail among the fieezing liquid ; then taking the whole by the handle of the sabotiere, an alternate motion of rotation is given to it for about a quarter of an hour-, when the cream is sufficiently frozen." TJi'e. Sack. The term sack is a corruption of "sec,'" signifying dry, and was applied in old times to wines made from half-dried grapes. The sack of Shakespeare's day is supposed to have been what we now call sherry. Sack posset was a beverage highly esteemed 300 or 400 years ago, and as some of our readers may like to taste it, we give below a few recipes for its manufacture. Sack Cream. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix with them gradually half a pint of cream and half a pint of lukewarm milk. Add a Little sugar, a flavouring of grated lemonrind, and a glassful of sherry. Stir the cream over the fire till it begins to thicken, and be verj' careful that it does not curdle. Serve it in custard-glasses, with a little powdered cinnamon sprinkled over the top. Send ratafias or other sweet biscuits to table with the cream. Time, five or si.x minutes to beat the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six glasses. Sack Posset (Sir Walter Raleigh's recipe). Boil together half a pint of sherry and half a pint of ale, and add gradually a quart of boiling SAC 1785) SAF cream or milk. Sweeten the mixture well, and flavom- with grated nutmeg. Put it into a heated dish, cover it over, and let it stand bj' the tire two or three hours. Lady Mallet's recipe : Break eighteen new-laid eggs into a bowl, and carefully remove the specks. Beat the eggs till they are lightly frothed. Boil a quart of cold and a pint of boiled sack (or sheiTy) with three-quarters of a pound of sugar and a little grated nutmeg. Skim the liquor carefully, and when it has boiled a few minutes, stir it off the fire for a minute, then add it gradually to the beaten eggs. Stir the preparation over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, pour it quickly from one vessel to another till quite smooth, and then serve. Master Rudstone's recipe : Take a quart of sherry or brandy, and boil it with a quarter of a pint of ale and three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Skim it well, then mix it gradually with the well-beaten yolks of two and the whites of sixteen eggs. Let the mixture cool till the eggs thicken, then stir in three pints ?of milk or cream which have been boiled down to a quart. Pour it quickly from one vessel to another till it is quite smooth, and then serve. Sack Whey (for Invalids). Boil a pint of milk, and as it rises in the pan stir into it three glasses of sherry. Let it boil once more, then ch-ain it back, and let it stand till the curd forms. Filter the whey, sweeten, dilute it, or not, with a little water, and serve. Saddle of Mutton, Carving of. ?" This joint," says M. Ude, " is by no means an economical one, as no meat from the butcher's shop is so excessively dear, considering the little meat you can cut from it, and the eat waste there is in skin, fat, and bone ; and that, above all, it produces no cold meat for futiu'c use, and can only be used again in the shape of hash. SADDLE OF MUTTON. " The method usually adopted in carving this joint is contrary to taste and judgment. To have yom- meat in the grain, pass your knife straight to one side of the chine, as close as possible to the bone : then turn the knife straight from you, and cut the first slice out ; then cut slices of lean and fat. By disengaging the slices from the flat bone in this manner, it ?will have a better appearance, and you will be enabled to assist more guests. " The amateur of tender meat will, by turning the saddle upside down, find that the under fillets are most excellent, and worthy to be offered to the first epicure of the day." 53 Saffron. Saffron is very largely adulterated with the petals of other plants, especially with those of the marigold. Saffron is now chiefly imported from the South of Europe, especially Spain. It was formerly much cultivated in this country in the vicinity of Saffron Walden, in Cambridgeshire. The English saffron is superior to that brought from Spain. Saffron used to be so extensively used in Cornwall that that county consumed more than all the rest of England put together. In the West of England it is still largely used to colour cakes. Saffron Cakes. Take a quartern of fine flour, and a pound and a half of butter, three ounces of caraway-seeds, six eggs well-beaten, a quarter of an ounce of well-beaten cloves and mace, a little pounded cinnamon, one pound of sugar, a little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of milk. Mix these ingredients thus : first boil the milk and butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with the flour and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into the rest, and strain it. Mix it with the flour ; put in the eggs and spice, rose-water, tincture of saffron, sugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake in a hoop or pan well-buttered, in a quick oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Saffron Cakes or Buns. Loaves, cakes, or buns mixed with a little saffron-water will be found both wholesome and palatable. The medicinal quality of saffron is stimulant, and its tendency is to help digestion. It is said to kUl or drive out intestinal worms. To make the saffron-water, infuse a small quantity of saffron in a little water. After a few minutes, strain the liquor, and add a spoonful or two to an ordinary cake. Be sure that it rises well. The cake after baking will retain the taste and . mell of the saffron, and will have a rich appearance. Saffron Cordial "Water (Robinson's recipe) : Best picked saffron . . . i oz. Sifted loaf sugar .... 4 oz. Cinnamon and nutmeg, sliced, each oz. Cloves and pimento, bruised . 1 oz. Sweet almonds, beaten . . 1 oz. Bitter do i oz. Caraways . . . . . 1 oz. Pure water 1 pint. Proof spirit of wine ... 1 pint. Put the above ingi-edients into a stone jar, the almonds beaten with a little of the spirit of wine. Secure the cork, and let the ingredients infuse in the usual manner. Then strain and filter clear ; bottle, cork, and seal. This should be kept a while to let the strong flavour of the saffron go off. Saffron, Preparation of. The bulbs of the saffron [Crocus satirus) are planted in rows six inches apart, and three from bulb to bulb, in a well-pulverised, not poor, nor a very stiff clay, in the month of July. The flowers are collected in September, and the yellow stigmas and part of the style are picked out, and dried on a kiln, between layers of paper, and under SAF ( 786) SAG the pressure of a thick board, to form the mass into cakes. Two pounds of diied cake is the average crop of an acre, after the first phxnting, and twenty-four pounds for the two following years. After the third crop the roots are taken up, divided, and transjilanted. Saffron, Properties of. Dr. Thomson in his "Materia Medica " states that safl:"ron excites the nerves of the stomach, and is in some degree narcotic; its incautious use has sometimes been attended with dangerous consequences. It is sometimes adulterated with safflower and marigolds; but the adulteration is easily detected, for the petals of these flowers will appear distinct from the stigmata of the crocus. Saffron is said to impart an intoxicating quality to bees. It exercises a. specific influence on the brain and nei-ves, and when taken in large doses causes immoderate mirth and involuntary laughter. .Its exhilaratingqualities are so remarkable that it has been supposed to be the " nepenthes " of Homer; and to denote a merry temper it became a proverb " He has slept in a saffron-bag." It has the singular property, also, of counteracting the intoxication produced by alcoholic liquors, as hops to some extent do. This was known to Pliny, who says it allaj'S the fumes of wine and prevents drunkenness. ' ' It was therefore taken in drink by great wine-bibbers, to enable them to drink largely without intoxication. Its effects, however," says Professor Johnston, " are very- uncertain, and it is now little used in medicine, and still less, I believe, for adulterating beer." Saflfron Pudding. Boil a table-spoonful of real saffron in half a tea-cupful of water until the decided taste and smell peculiar to the flower has been extracted and the liquor has acquired a clear light-yellow tinge. Mince finely three-quarters of a pound of suet, and mix with it a pinch of salt, half a pound of flour, half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger. When thoroughly mixed, stir in the saffron-water, three well-beaten eggs, and as much milk or cream as is required to make a light, smooth dough. Turn this into a floured cloth, tie securely, allowing room for the pudding to swell, plunge it into boiling water, and boil until done enough. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Safifron, Spurious. The term saffron is often applied to the Carthanuis tincforhis, a large thistle-like plant, belonging to the order Composite. The root is perennial, but the stem herbaceous. It is said to have been originally brought from the East, but it is now naturalised in many parts of Europe, and is, besides, extensively cultivated. In Spain the flowers are used for colouring soups, olives, and other dishes. The Jews in I'oland are remarkably fond of this spurious safih'on, and mix it with their broad and most of their viands. In Germany it is cultivated in a light soil, well pulverised, and is sown in rows about eighteen inches apart : it is afterwards thinned so as to leave three or four inches between the plants. The plants begin to flower in September, and the field is then gone over once every week for six or seven weeks, in order to gather the expanded florets, which are diied in a kiln, in the same way as true saft'ron. The Carthamus is occasionally employed in cookery under the impression that it is the genuine saft'ron. If too great quantities are used, it produces a purgative effect. Saffron Tea (to assist digestion). Mix a pinch of saffron with a quarter of a pint of hot water. Let it infuse for ten minutes, then add two or three table-spoonfuls of brandy or any other spirit and a lump of sugar. Serve hot or cold. Time, ten minutes. Sage. Sage is a plant much used in cookery for stufiings and sauces : it is supposed to assist digestion. Red sage is the best, and green sage the next best. August and September are the months for drying sage. Sage and Onion Gravy. Prepare a little more sage and onion stuffing than is required, and rub a portion of it through a sieve. Mix with the pulp as much good stock as will make the requisite quantity of gravy, add a spoonful of Harvey's Sauce, let all boil up once, and serve. Sage and Onion Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks. Skin ten or twelve onions, and throw them into cold water. AVhen all are peeled, put them witli a handful of green sage-leaves into a saucepan of boiling water and let them boil till tender. Pour off the water, mince the onions and sage finely, and beat them well with a piece of butter the size of an Ggg and a little pepper and salt. Heat the onions again till the butter is dissolved, and serve very hot. If dried sage is used, it must be powdered and mixed with the onions after they are boiled. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Sage and Onion Stuffing (another way). Sec Onion and Sage Stuifing for Geese, &c.). SAG (787) SAG Sage and Onion Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks (unothcr way). Peel four largo onions, and boil thcin for tlu-ce minutes ; put with them a dozen sage-leaves, and boil all for two minutes longer. Strain off the liquor, and mince finely the onions and sage. Return them to the sxiucepan with a slice of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. Let all siuuner gently together, and stir the mixture occasionally, to keep it from burning, for twenty minutes, when the stuffing will be ready for use. A beaten eggmay be added if liked. Sage and onion stuffingis generally seasoned rather highly. When it is used for goose, the liver of the bird may be boiled, minced, and mixed with it. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized goose or a couple of ducks. Sage and Thyme. The leaves of these plants are used fresh and dry, and form the flavouring of those ingredients which are put into the inside of ducks, geese, roast pigs, sausages, and other animal food brought to the table. " They are warm and discussive, and good against crudities of the stomach," according to an old Avi-iter on the subject. Sage Cheese. There is a kind of sage cheese which used to be, and perhaps still is, made by a few families in Gloucestershire for their private consumption : it is the most delicious of any of the green cheeses. It is intended for immediate use, and will not keep long. A quantity of young sage-leaves are bruised in a moi-tar, and the juice is extracted from them : the juice of a quantity of spinach is extracted by the same process and mixed with the sago-juice in equal proportions. Just before the rennet is put to the milk, a quantity of this juice, equal to the colour and flavour intended to be given to the cheese, is mixed with the milk. As the curd is being formed, it is gently broken, and in equal lumps as nearly as possible. The whey is then separated, and the curd put into the vat and submitted to gentle and gx'adual pressui-c during seven hours. It is next salted twice a day for three or four days, and afterwards turned every day during five weeks. It is then fit for use. This cheese is very little known, and deserves to be more so ; it may be made anywhere with rich and unsophisticated milk. This is also, or ought to be, a one-meal cheese. Sage Gargle (for sore throat). Boil a handful of sage-leaves in a pint of water till the liquor is reduced one-half. Strain it, let it get cold, then mix with it half a pint of vinegar, and sweeten with honey or sugar. A glassful of port may be added to the gargle, or not. Sage Goose Stuffing {see Goose Stufling, Sage and Onion). Sage, Onion, and Apple Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks, Put four apples, four onions, four sage-leaves, and four lemon-thj-me leaves into a saucepan with as much water as will cover them. Let them simmer till tender, then pour off the water, and 'rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp with pepper and salt, mix with it as much mashed potato as will make it di-y and smooth, and the .stuffing will be ready for use. If liked, a spoonful of boiled rice may be mixed with the sage and onions instead of the potatoes. Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, about 4d. Sufficient for one goose or two ducks. Sage, Properties of. Sage once had a high reputation for its medicinal qualities; but at picsent these do not appear to be much thought of. It possesses, however, some astringent and aromatic powers ; and a decoction, or sage tea, is of use in cases of debility of the stomach, and in nervous disorders. The broad-leaved balsamic species is the most efficacious for its medicinal qualities and as a tea herb. Sage is also introduced into cheese, and we have given above an excellent recipe for the manufacture of sage cheese. Sage Tea. "The virtues of sage," says Dr. Paris, " have been so extravagantly praised that, like many of our remedies, the plant is fallen into disuse from the disgust which its panegyrists have excited. I am convinced, however, that in the fonn of infusion it possesses some power of allaying the irritability of the stomach, and that, on many occasions, it will furnish a salutary beverage." Sage, Varieties of. The varieties of sage are tlio common or red, the green, the smallleaved or sage of virtue, and the broad-leaved or balsamic. The red is the principal sort in culinary use, having the most agreeable and fullest flavour; the green is next in estimation with the cook ; but the smaU-leaved is generally preferred to those to eat as a raw herb and for decoctions, while the broad-leaved balsamic species is the most efficacious in a medical way, and is also a tea herb. However, any of the sorts may be occasionally used for these alternate purposes. Sage, Wholesomeness of. " The garden sage {Salvia officinalis) was fonnerly in great repute as a sudorific, aromatic, astringent, and antiseptic. It possesses stimulant properties in a high degree, is tonic and stomachic ; the odour is strong, aromatic, and agreeable; the taste bitter, pungent, and somewhat resemblingcamphor, which substance, indeed, is contained in the plant. The leaves are often employed in seasoning dishes, especially in the South of Europe. The Chinese esteem this plant very highly, and use it as a tonic for strengthening the stomach, often giving it the preference to their own tea." Dr. Andrew. Sage Wine, Green. Take nine poimds of good honey, and boil them with ten gallons of river or rain-water and the -whites of ten eggs well beaten. Boil for one hour, skimming till the liquid is clear ; while hot, pour it upon forty pounds of good ]\Ialaga raisins picked from the stalks and stoned and cut small, and three pecks of green sage-leaves freshly gathered and shred roughly. Cover the preparation closely, and stir now and again for forty-eight hours. At the end of that time press the fruit in a hair bag, strain the liquid into a clean vessel, and on the following day draw off what is clear into a eask. Filter the lees, and add them -with the rinds of si.N: lemons and four Seville oranges pared thin, and the juice of both strained. SAG SAG Keep tho cask open for four or five days and well filled up; when the liquor has done hissing, wait a day, then add thi-ee half-pints of brandy and an ounce and a half of best isinglass dissolved in two quarts of the wine. Secure the bung carefully, and store in a cool dry cellar for twelve months ; then, if fine, bottle the ?wine; if not, rack it off into a clean vessel, filter the dregs two or three times through a flannel bag, and fill the cask again. Add a pint more brandy and four ounces of sugar-candy ; then stop the cask up again, and bottle the wine in three months. If kept for haK a year this wine wiU be excellent and highly flavoured. Sage Wine, Red. Take three pecks of red sage-leaves, pick them from the stalks, shred them roughly, and pour over them four gallons of boiling soft water. Cover the vessel closely, and let it stand for one day. Take forty-five pounds of good Malaga raisins, pick them, cut them in halves, take out the stones, and pour over them six gallons of water that has been well boiled and grown lukewarm. Stir well, and cover them up. Then mix the contents of the two vessels, add the rinds of ten lemons, pared verj' thin, and their juice. Let all infuse for five days, stirring twice daily. Place in a clean ten-gallon cask six ounces of sugar-candy and an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and beaten to a paste together with a spoonful of brandy. Strain the liquor upon them, filling to the bunghole of the cask, whicli must be tightly covered. Let the liquor work out, keeping the cask fuU, and on the fermentation ceasing, put in aquart of brandy, and stop up the bunghole for two months. Then rack the liquor into a clean vessel, filter the lees, and return all that is clear into the cask again with six ounces more of sugar-candy, a pint of brandy, and an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of the wi ie. Stop the cask effectually, and store for twelve months. At the end of the year bottle the wine, and when it is eighteen months old it will be fit for use. This is an excellent stomachic wine. SAGO. Showing Palm, Fioifcr, and Ripe Fruit. _ Sago. The farinaceous food of this name is light, wholesome, and nutritious, and especially suited for children and invalids. It is made from the pith of a tree which grows abundantly in the East Indies. In order to obtain it, the tree is cut down, and the pith extracted from the trunk, reduced to powder, washed, dried, and rubbed into grains for exportation. {See Sago, Manufacture of). Large forests of the sago-palm grow in the Moluccas, and one tree will yield from 100 to 800 pounds of sago. Sago and Apple Pudding. Soak a tea-cupful of large sago in cold water for an hour, to free it from the earthy taste. Einse it well, and boil gently till clear in a quart of water. Stir frequently, and add a little more hot water if necessary. This will depend upon the quality of the sago, which when taken from the fire should be tolerably thin. Half fill a large buttered pie-dish with partiallyboiled apjiles. Sweeten these, and sprinkle over them a little grated lemon-rind or powdered cinnamon. Pour the boiled sago over them, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. ' en the apples are soft the pudding is done enough. Time to boil the sago, about an hour ; to bake the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Sago, Beer Soup with {see Beer Soup with Sago). Sago Bread. One-fourth, or at most onethird, is the best proportion to wheaten bread. Dissolve the sago for three hours in milk-warm water on a hob. Then mix as for common bread. The loaves should be baked in a slack oven for two hours, then allowed to grow stale, when the bread wUl be found excellent and economical. Sago for Invalids. Soak a table-spoonful of sago for an hour. Rinse it, and boil it gently till clear with a pint of water or milk and water. A little thin lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, cinnamon, or any other fiavouring, may be boiled with it, or the sago may be merely sweetened and served with a table-spoonful of wine or brandy stirred into it at the last moment. If the siigo is too thick, a little more water may be added. Time, about threequarters of an hour to boil the sago. Sufiicient for one person. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine, &c. Sago Gruel. Take two table-spoonfuls of sago, and place them in a small saucepan ; moisten gradually with a little cold water. Set the preparation on a slow fire, and keep stirring till it becomes rather stiff and clear. Add a little grated nutmeg and sugar to taste ; if preferred, half a pat of butter may also be added with the sugar, and a glassful of wine will be an improvem.ent to the gruel. Sago Jelly. Take one pound of sago and five pints of water. Wash the sago well, then boil it with the water till it is reduced to a transparent jelly. The preparation may be flavoured to taste. Sago, Manufacture of. The following description of the manufacture of this important article of commerce is given by I\Ir. Simmonds in his " Commercial Products of the Vegetable Kingdom ": " The tree being cut down, the exterior bark is removed, and the heart or pith SAG ( 789 ) SAG of the palm a soft white spongy and mealy substance is gathered, and for the purpose of distant transportation it is put into conical bags made of plantain- leaves, and neatly tied up. In that state it is called by the Malays sangoo tainpiii, or 'bundles of sago' each bundle weighs about thirty pounds. On its arrival at Singapore it is bought by the Chinese manufacturers of sago, and is thus treated : Upon being carried to the manufactory, the plantain-leaf covering is removed, and the raw sago, imparting a strong acid odour, is bruised, and is put into large tubs of cold spring water, where it undergoes a process of 2)uritication by being stirred, suffered to repose, and then re-stirred in newly-introduced water. When well purified thus, it is taken out of the tubs by means of small vessels; and being mixed with a great deal of water, the liquid is gently poured upon a large and slightly-inclined trough, about ten inches in height and width, and in the descent towards the depressed end the sago is deposited in the bottom of the trough, whilst the water flows into another large tub, where what may remain of sago is finally deposited. As the strata of deposited sago increases in the trough, small pieces of slate are adjusted to its lower end to prevent the escape of the substance. When by this pouring process the trough becomes quite full of sago, it is then removed to make room for a fresh one, whilst the former one is put out into the air, under cover, for a short time ; and on its being well dried, the sago within is cut into square pieces and taken out to be thoroughly dried, under cover, to protect it from the sun. It has then lost the acid smell already noticed, and has become quite white. After one day's drying thus, it is taken into what may be called the manufactory a long shed, open in front and on one side, and closed at the other and in the rear. Here the lumps of sago are broken up, and are reduced to an impalpable flour, which is passed through a sieve. The lumps which are retained by the sieve are put back to be rebruised, whilst that portion which has passed is collected, and is placed in a long cloth bag, the gathered ends of which, like those of a hammock, are attached to a pole, which pole being suspended to a beam of the building by a rope, one end of it is sharply thrown forward with a particular jerk, by means of which the sago within is speedily granulated very fine, and becomes what is technically termed ' pearled.' It is then taken out and put into iron vessels, called qualfles, for the purpose of being dried. These quallies are small elliptical pans, and resemble in form the sugar coppers of the West Indies, and would each hold about five gallons of fluid. They are set a little inclining, and in a range, over a line of furnaces, eacjii one ha\'ing its own fire. Before putting in the sago to be dried,, a cloth, which contains a small quantity of hog's lard or some oily substance, is hastily passed into the qually, and the sago is equally quickly put into it, and a Chinese labourer who attends it commences stirring it vigorously, and thus continues his labour during the few minutes necessary to expel the moisture contained in the substance. Thus each qually, containing about ten pounds of sago, requires the attendance of a man. The sago, on being taken off the fire, is spread out to cool on large tables, after which it is fit to be packed in boxes, or put into bags for shipment, and is known in commerce under the name of ' pearl sago.' " Sago-Meal. Sago is sometimes imported into this country in the pulverulent state, in which it can bo distinguished from arrowroot only by microscopic examination of its particles. These are uniform and spherical, not unequal and ovoid, like those of arrowroot. In this state it is known as sago-meal. Sago Milk. Soak a large table-spoonful of sago in water for an hour, then boil it in fresh water for two or three minutes. Pour the liquor off, and substitute for it a quart of new milk. Boil the sago gently till the milk is reduced to a pint. Sweeten, flavour, and serve. Time, about an hour to boil the siigo with the milk. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for one person. Sago Milk (another way). Scc Milk, Sago. Sago, Nutritive Properties of. " The sago palm," says Professor Johnston, "is cultivated in many places, but it is the chief support of the inhabitants of North-western New Guinea and of parts of the coast of Africa. The meal is extracted from the pith by rubbing it to powder, and then washing it with water upon a sieve. It is baked by the natives into a kind of bread or hard cake, by putting it for a few minutes into a hot mould. The exact nutritive value of sago has not been chemically ascertained. It has been stated, however, that two and a half pounds of it are enough for a day's sustenance for a healthy full-grown man. And as each ti-ee, when cut down in its seventh year, yields seven hundred pounds of sago-meal, it has been calculated that a single acre of land planted with three hundred trees one-seventh to be cut down every year will maintain fourteen men." The pith of the sago palm made into bread probably contains a suflicient quantity of gluten to sustain life ; but this is in a great measure washed out in manufacturing the sago of commerce. Sago has been sometimes used, as we have shown elsewhere, as an ingredient of household bread, in the proportion of one part of sago to about three of wheaten flour. Sago, Portland. Portland sago derives its name from the island of Portland, where it is manufactured from the roots of the common wake robin [Arum maculatum), which is found there in great abundance. The roots are full of farina, but in their natural state are so acrid that on the juice being applied to the skin it raises blisters. On heat being applied by roasting or boihng, this juice is dissipated, and the roots are rendered perifectly harmless. This being done, they are dried and poimded. They yield a starchy matter not unlike the Indian arrowroot; hence Portland sago is sometimes called English an?o vroot. Sago Pudding (A German rcfcipe). Take four ounces of sago, and boil in a quart of milk. AVhen the sago is quite boiled out, remove it from the fire, and stir in a quarter of a pound of creamed butter, four ounces of ;ag ( 790) SAI biscuit-powder, four ounces of sugar, the peel of a leuion grated, and six or eight eggs heat up. Butter a mould, pour this preparation in, and hake or boil. Send to table with a wine or raspberry sauce poured over the pudding. Sago Pudding, Baked. AVash three table-spoonfuls of sago, and so.ik it for an hour in half a pint of told water. Bleantime put a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan with a little lemon-rind, an inch of stick cinnamon, or an ounce of blanched and pounded almonds, and let it simmer gently till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain and sweeten ; mix with it the soalced sago drained from the water, and simmer gently, stirring frequently till the preparation is thick. Let it cool, then add two well-beaten eggs and a slice of fresh butter, and beat it again for a few minutes. Pour it into a buttered pie-dish, and bake until the surface is brightly browned. Serve with wine sauce. If a superior pudding is required, four eggs may be used instead of two, and the dish may be lined with puff paste before the sago is poured into it. Time to bake the pudding, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sago Pudding, Boiled. Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of half a lemon, and let it simmer gently until it is pleasantly flavoured. .Strain it, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of well-washed sago and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and then boil the mixture, stirring gently till it is thick and smooth. Let it cool, then add two well-beaten eggs. Turn it into a well-buttered basin which it will quite fill, lay a buttered paper on the top, and tie a floured cloth securely over it. Plunge it into a saucepan with plent}- of boiling water, and keep it boiling till done enough. Move it about occasionally for the first quarter of an hour. Let it stand in the basin a few minutes, then turn it out carefully, and garnish with jelly, or send wine sauce to table with it. Time to Ijoil, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sago Pudding Boiled (superior). Soak an ounce and a half of sago for an hour. Strain it, and boil it in ,a pint of millc till it is clear, and to flavoiu- it add an ounce of blanched and pounded almonds, the thin rind of a lemon, or an inch of stick cinnamon. Pour the sago out, remove the flavouring ingredients, and stir till cool. Beat it up with two sponge biscuits crushed to powder, the well-whisked yolks of five and the whites of two eggs, a little sugar, and a glassful of sherry or madeira. Boil the pudding as in the last recipe. Let it stand three or four minutes, turn it out carefully, and serve with wine sauce or with half a pint of any f':3sh fruit boiled with sugar and water to a rich syrup, and strained over the pudding. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the wine and sauce. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sago Pudding, Red. Boil in milk two ounces of sago. When it is quite thick, beat ' into it six eggs, leaving out three of the whites ; :add half a pint of cream and two spoonfuls of sherry, with nutmeg and sugar according to taste. Put paste round the dish. Sago Sauce for Boiled Puddings. Wash a table-spoonful of large sago, and boil it in the third of a pint of water for ten minutes. Sweeten it, flavour with a little grated lemonrind or pounded cinnamon, add the strained juice of a small lemon and a glassful of sherrjor madeira, let it boil up once, and serve. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Sago Soup. Wash six ounces of sago, and add it gradually to two quarts of nicelyflavoured stock. Let it simmer gently till the sago is quite clear, and put in further seasoning if necessary. Before serving the soup inix w ith it either the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of light wine, or the yolks of two eggs beaten up with a little cream. Serve - er}hot. Sago Soup, Red (a Danish recipe). Boil the sago as in the recipe Sago Soup, White. Instead, however, of beating up eggs and wine in the tureen, put into it preser ?ed raspberries, currants, or cherries. In summer, ripe fruit may bo used, which must be boiled A\ith the sago. Add sugar to taste. Sago Soup, Restorative. Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of mutton, veal, or chicken broth till clear. Serve hot or cold. Sago Soup, White (a Danish recipe). Take half a pound of pearl sago, and wash it well in cold water; put it into four pints of boiling water along with the rind of a lemon. If liked, four ounces of raisins may afterwards be added. Beat up in the tureen the yolks of four eggs, add white or very pale brown sugar to taste, the juice of two or three lemons, and half a pint of white wine. Pour the soup slo\vly over this mixture, beating the eggs and wine vigorously all the while. The sago should boil for half an hour. Sago with Wine Sauce (a German recipe). Take a quarter of a pound of sago, and boil it in a pint of water with the peel of a lemon till it is quite boiled out ; add a little white wine, sugar, and cinnamon. Stir the preparation till it becomes thin, then let it boil a little longer, and remove the peel and cinnamon. Pour the sago out to cool in a deep plate; when cold cut it into shapes, and place it in the dish in which it is to appear at table. Poui' over it a sauce composed of wine, sugar, cinnamon, and grated lemon-peel. If prefeiTcd, the juice of fruit may be used in.stead of wine. Sailor's Soup. Clean a small pike, a tench, a carp, and a middling-sized eel ; cut them into small lengths, throw over them a little sea- water to cleanse, and salt them at the same time ; an hour after wash and drain them on a napkin; then lay each fish separately in a saute-pan containing two onions, two carrots, and a pottle of mushrooms sliced, some parsley-roots, bay-leaf, basil, thyme, two cloves, a clove of nutmeg, a pinch of pepper and grated nutmeg, half a pint of Chablis wine, and a ladlef ul of consomme ; let them simmer for ten minutes, take out the carp, and ten minutes SAK (791 ) SAL after drain the remaining fish on a bakingsheet, and observe that no fragment of the seasoning remains about the fish. Lay them gradually in the tureen, which coA er and place in the hot closet ; strain the essence of the fish through a sieve; add to it some brown consomme prepared as usual ; claiify it, and pour it into the tureen while boiling, mingling with it roots di'essed in some consomme ; the same as in the recipe Sante, Potage de, but without the lettuces and sorrel. Careme. Saki. This is a sort of beer made in Japan, where it is the common alcoholic drink. It is obtained from rice. The liquor is clear and has a peculiar taste, which is seldom agreeable to the European palate. The Japanese usually heat it before drinking, and pour it into flat cups or saucers of lacquered wood. The effect Ijroduced by saki is a speedy but transient intoxication. Salad. A salad well prepared is a charming compound, and, when taken with plenty of oil, very wholesome, attractive, and agreeable ; badly prepared it is an abomination. A Spanish proverb says, that foui- persons are needed to make a good salad a spendthi-ift to throw in the oil, a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to administer the seasoning, and a madman to stir the whole together. Lettuce is generally supposed to foi-m the foundation of a salad, but there are few fresh vegetables that may not be used : and on the Continent every known vegetable is, when plainly dressed, used cold for salads ; and cold meat, fish, and game are served in the same way. Amongst the vegetables appropriate for salads may be named asparagus, artichokes, beetroot boiled, basil, celery, chives, Cucumbers, chervil, cauliflowers, dandelion-leaves, endive, French beans, garlic, lettuces of all kinds, lentils, mustard and ress, mint, onions, parsley, potatoes, radishes, shallots, sorrel, tarragon, tomatoes, Windsor beans, and watercress. Though a variety in salads is easilj' secured, great care is necessary in the preparation of the dish, and thi-ee or four rules must be closely observed if the salad is to be a success. First, the vegetables must be young, freshly-cut, in season, and in good condition. If possible, they should be gathered early in the morning, or late in the evening, and should be kept in a cool, damp place. Secondly, the vegetables should not be allowed to lie long in water. If withered, they may be put in for a short time to render them a little crisp, but if fresh, they should be simply rinsed through the water and dried immediately. Thirdly and this point requires most careful attention the vegetables must be rendered perfectly dry after washing. The best way of doing this is to drain the salad and shake it first in a colander, or salad-basket, and afterwards in a clean napkin held by the comers and shaken lightly till the salad is dry. Fourthly, cut the salad with a silver knife, or tear it in shreds ; do not prepare it until a short time before it is wanted, and on no account mix the salad-dressing with it imtil the last moment. It is a verj- usual and excellent plan to pour the liquid into the bottom of the bowl, lay the ahred vegetables upon it, and mix the salad at table. A wooden fork and spoon are the best for this purpose. Salads may be garnished in various ways, and afford ample opportunity for the display of artistic taste. Boiled beetroot cut into slices stamped into fancy shapes or cut into trelUs-work, sliced cucumbers, olives, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters or rings, radishes, nasturtium-leaves and flowers, &c., may all be used. AVTien these are arranged tastefully the salad presents a very attractive appearance. Of course the garniture must not entirely hide the salad. Salad Beef. Cut a pound of cold beef into thin slices ; put these into a salad-bowl with half a pound of fresh lettuce or endive dried and shred small, and a quai-ter of a pound of cold boiled haricot beans. Add, if liked, a pickled gherkin chopped small, or a spoonful of sliced tarragon-leaves, or chervil, or onion. Season the salad with a tea-spoonful of salt, haK a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and five spoonfuls of good salad oil. ]\Iix all lightly together with a foi-k, and serve. The salad ought not to be mixed until it is about to be served. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare the salad. Probable cost, 2s. Suflicient for three or four persons. Salad, Boiled. Boil separately equal quantities of French beans and celery or cauliflower. Drain them, and cut them up small. Put them into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle over them a layer of shred lettuce, endive, or chervil. Pour over the whole a little salad dressing, mix lightly, and serve. Boiled onion and slices of cold meat, fish, or poultry may be added, or not. Salad, Boiled (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe). This is best compounded of boiled or baked onions (if Portugal the better), some baked beetroot, cauliflower, or broccoli, and boiled celery and French beans, or any of these articles, ith the common salad dressing; added to this, to give it an enticing appeai-ance, and to give some of the crispness and freshness so pleasant in salad, a small quantity of raw endive, or lettuce and chervil, or bumot, strewed on the top; this is by far more wholesome than the raw salad, and is much eaten when put on the table. The above sauce is equally good -with cold meat, cold fish, or for cucumbers, celerj', radishes, &c. (and all the other vegetables that are sent to talde undressed) ; to the above a little minced onion is generally an acceptable addition. "Salad," adds Dr. Kitchiner, "is a very compoimd dish with our neighbours the French, who always add to the mixture above black pei:)per and sometimes savoury spice. The Italians mince the white meat of chickens into this sauce ; the Dutch, cold boiled turbot, or lobstei-, or add to it a spoonful of grated Parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or mince very fine a little tarragon, or chervil, burnet, or young onion, celery, or pickled gherkins, &c. Joan CromwcU's grand salad was composed of equal parts of almonds, raisins, capers, pickled cucumbers, shrimps, and boiled turnips. "This mixture is sometimes made -with ci-cam, SAL (792) SAL oiled butter, or some good jelly of meat (which many prefer to the finest Florence oil), and flavoured with salad mixture, basil, or cress or celery vinegar, horseradish vinegar, cucumber vinegar, anil tarragon or clear vinegar, essence of celery, walnut or lemon pickle, or a slice of lemon cut into dice, and essence of anchovy." Salad, Cheap and Good. Take one pennyworth of mustard and cress, two pcnnywortii of watercress, two pennyworth of cooked beetroot, and a fourpenny head of celery ; cut the beet into small dice squares ; take a glass or silver dish, pile the beet into pyramids, do the same with the celery and watercress, and arrange all round the dish ; heap the mustard into a pile in the centre; boil two eggs hard; take out the yolks, and mix them with a little mashed potato, a table-spoonful of vinegar, half a table-spoonful of Harvey's Sauce, and ketchup, pepper, and salt, two spoonfuls of milk, the same of oil, and a salt-spoonful of sugar ; pour this over the whole. Salad, Cold Vegetable. Almost all cold dressed vegetables, such as peas, French beans, haricot beans, artichokes, asparagus, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes, may be used as salads. They should simply be cut up, arranged neatly on a dish, beaten up very lightly with a simple salad-dressing, and garnished according to taste. Salad Dressing. Salad dressings are frequently bought of the grocer, and sent to table in the bottle in which they are purchased. Though these creams are many of them verjgood, epicures in salad always prefer that the salad dressing should be prepared at home. Mayonnaise salad sauce is perhaps to be preferred to any other, and for this a recipe is given {see Salad Sauce, Mayonnaise). A foolish prejudice is felt by n any persons against the use of oil in salads, but this is gradually disappearing, as the majority of those who are prevailed upon to overcome it end by being exceedingly partial to what they had before disliked, and they also find that oil tends to prevent the fermentation of the raw vegetable, and is, besides, an antidote to flatulency. Seeing, however, that this prejudice still exists, two or three recipes are given of salad dressings without oil as well as with it. It has been already said that the dressing should not be mixed with. the salad until the last moment. Nevertheless, it may always be prepared some hours before it is wanted, and stored in a cool, airy place. "When salads are much used, a good plan is to make suSicient for two or three days' consumption, and to bottle it oft" for use. No. 1. Put a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white popper, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar into a bowl. jMix these ingredients thoroughly, and add, first by drops and afterwards b} tea-spoonfuls, two table-spoonfuls of oil, four table-spoonfuls of milk, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir the mixture well between every addition. The sauce ought to look like cream. A teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar may be added, or not. No. 2. Boil an egg till hard, and lay it in cold water for a minute. Strip off the shell, and put the yolk into a bowl. Rub it well with the back of a wooden spoon, and put with it a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of powdered sugar, and a pinch of cayenne. Add, first by drops and afterwards by salt-spoonfuls, a table-spoonful of oil, six table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and, lastly, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Beat the sauce well between every addition. Mince the whole of the egg, or cut it into rings, with which ta garnish the salad. No. 3 (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). Boil two eggs for a quarter of an hour. Lay them in cold water, and in a few minutes strip oft' the shells, and lay the yolks in a basin. Rub them till smooth with the back of a wooden, spoon, and mi.x with them, very gradually,, first a table-spoonful of water or thick cream, and afterwards two table-spoonfuls of oil. V len these are well mixed, add a tea-spoonful of salt or powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, and, lastly, and very gradually, three table- spoonfuls of vinegar. Put the sauce at the bottom of the bowl, lay the salad on the top, garnish with the whites of the eggs cut into rings, and do not mix the salad till the last moment. No. 4. Mix a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of pepper with a table-spoonful of oil. When the salt is dissolved, put in four additional table-spoonfuls of oil, and then pour the sauca over the salad Mix thoroughly, and add a table-spoonful of good vinegar and a table-spoonful of tarragon or cucumber vinegar. Mi.x again, and serve. No. 5 Rub the hard-boiled yolks of three eggs till smooth, and mix in a salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, a salt-spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar, half a salt-spoonful of white pepper, and the well-beaten yolk of h.raw egg. Add gradually four table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and two table-spoonfuls of strained lemon- juice. Beat the dressingthoroughly between every addition. No. 6. Beat the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till smooth. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a pinch of cayenne, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and, grndualhj, two table-spoonfuls of oil, the strained juice of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of light wine. No. 7. Rub the yolks of two hardboiled eggs till smooth with a tea-spoonful of vinegar. Add a tea-spoonful each of mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper, a table-spoonful of claret, and a finely-minced shallot or young onion. Beat in, first by drojDS and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, four table-sjjoonfuls of salad oil, and, lastly, add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a table-spoonful of white-wine vinegar. No. 8. Beat a spoonful of flour with the yolks of three eggs. Add a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and three table-spoonfuls of water. Cut three ounces of streaky bacon into small pieces, and fry these till they begin to turn colour. Pour in the salad mixture, and stir the whole over the fire till the cream is thick and smooth. Pour it out, and continue stirring until cool, and add a little more vinegar and water if necessary. The sauce ought to be as thick as custard. No. 9 fnamed Sauce a la SAL ( 793 ) SAL Lowry). Beat the yolk of a raw egg. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and, gradually, three tea-spoonfuls of salad oil, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. Salad Dressing for Pish Salad. Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till smooth. Add a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a tea-spoonful of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of white pepper, and two sardines from which the skin and bones have been removed, or instead of the sardines use a spoonful of bruised capers and a minced shallot. When these ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, add very gradually two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. Salad Dressing (Italian). Take the skin and bones from an anchovy, pound the flesh well, and mix with it a teaspoonful of mixed mustard. Add very gradually four table-spoonfuls of lucca oil, beat the sauce well, and add two tea-spoonfuls of garlic vinegar, two of chilli vinegar, and four of white-wine vinegar. When the sauce is smooth and thick like cream it is ready for serving. Salad Dressing without Oil. Xo. i. Mix a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of white pepper with three table-spoonfuls of thick sour cream. Beat well, and add a tablespoonful of vinegar. If liked, the rind of a fresh lemon may be rubbed upon sugar, and dissolved in the vinegar before it is mixed with the cream. No. 2. Rub the yolks of two hardboiled eggs till smooth. Add a spoonful of mi.xed mustard, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and two table- spoonfuls of thick cream. When all these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add very gradually as much vinegar as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream. Salad, Every-day. In warm weather cold meat sent to table with a good salad, and a little cucumber or pickle, often proves more acceptable than the most expensive joint if served hot. To make the salad, wash one or two lettuces, throw away the outer and decayed leaves, and wash the others, handling them as lightly as possible. Drain them, and dry them perfectly, first by shaking them in a colander or salad-basket, and afterwards by shaking them in a napkin held loosely by the four corners. When the napkin has absorbed all the moisture, shi-ed the lettuce with a silver knife if possible. Rub the salad-bowl three or four times across with a clove of garlic, or with a slice of onion, and put in the shred lettuce. Mi.x thoroughly in the salad-spoon a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and a mustard-spoonful of mixed muStard. Sprinkle the seasoning over the salad, and work it well in. Pour upon it as much lucca oil as will cover it, and work this in; then add a table-spoonful of good vinegar and, if it can be had, a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. The salad should not be mixed till the moment of serving. If liked, shred celery, a head of endive, small salad. watercress, sliced beetroot, sliced cucumber spring radishes, and chopped green onions may be added to the* salad. Time : Plenty of time must be given for drying the lettuce perfectly, as the success of a salad depends in a great measure upon the lettuce being quite dry. Probable cost of moderate-sized salad, 8d. Salad, Flemish. Cut off the heads and tails from two Dutch herrings, and divide them into slices of half an inch thick. Cut the fish slantwise, and place them in their natural position; add potatoes cut in squares, brussels sprouts, a few green onions, some celery, all boiled, and season with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Any pickled or dried fish may be used instead of hen-ings. Salad, French. A French salad, strictly speaking, consists of one kind of salad only, washed, dried perfectly, torn into small pieces, and mixed lightly with salad dressing, If endive, small salad, watercress, &c., are mixed with the different kinds of lettuce, the salad loses its distinctive character as a French salad. Salad, Fruit. Currants, strawberries, raspberries, peaches, apricots, plums, oranges, pine-apples, &c., may all be served as salads. The large fruit should be pared and sliced, the small fruit picked and arranged in a dish. Powdered sugar should then be sifted thickly over, together with a table-spoonful or two of spirit or any suitable liquor. Salad, German. Throw a pound of sauer kraut into boiling water, and let it remain for five minutes; drain and cool it. Put the same weight of red pickled cabbage into cold water. Drain it, and shred finely with the sauer kraut. Mix the two thoroughly, and add one ounce of grated horseradish, one tablespoonful of chopped chervil, and two half -boiled onions finely minced. Just before serving the salad, toss the whole lightly together with six table-spoonfuls of oil, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Salad Herbs. Speaking of plants used as salad. Dr. Lankester remarks : " First there is the lettuce [Lactiica satlva). This plant is a cultivated variety of the wild lettuce [Lactucavirosa). It contains in its juice an active principle, which in large quantities exercises a narcotic influence on the human system. The watercress {Nasturtium officinale). This plant grows wild in ditches and damp places in this country, and is also extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood of London. It contains a large quantity of mineral matter, and in some districts is found to contain iodine. The endive {Cic iorinm Endii'ia). This plant is probably a variety of the common chicory {dehor iuiii Intybus). It is cultivated extensively on the Continent, and its blanched leaves are eaten as a salad. It can be obtained in the winter. It has a slightly bitter taste, and acts as a tonic on the system. Celery is the Apium graveolens. A\Tien wild this plant contains an acrid principle, which is i oisonous, but by culture its stalks are blanched, and it then becomes an agreeable and valuable article of food. The garden-ci-ess is the Lepidium safiru)+. This plant is not a native of Great Britain, but it is easily cultivated and extensively used as an SAL ( 794) SAL early spring salad. The seeds are sown with those of mustard [Sinapis nk ra and. Sinapisalba), and the young plants are both eaten together under the name of 'mustard and cress.' Ked beet, the Beta rtilf ctris of botanists. There are two varieties of this plant used as salad. FLrst, a variety called la Garde, which has a small root and large leaves ; the latter are eaten in the same way as lettuce. The other variety is called Bettcrare, in which the roots are largely developed. The roots are boiled and sliced and eaten with vinegar, oil, pepper, and salt. The radish is the Rapha)ius Raphanistnun. The roots of this pliant are eaten uncooked, and, like the family to which they belong, contain a subacrid oil, which gives them an agreeable flavour. They are less digestible than many other plants eaten as salad. Lamb's lettuce, or corn-salad, is the Valerianella alitor ia. This plant is a native of Great Britain, and is often cultivated for use as a salad. The leaves for this purpose should be cut young or they will have a disagreeable bitter taste. The common sorrel is the Rnnicx acetosa. The acid taste of this plant depends on the presence of oxalic acid. It is much iised as a salad in Franco. The common dandelion is the Lcontodon Taraxacum. This i)lant, though very common in England, is not much used as a salad. It has, however, when young, the flavour and properties of lettuce, and is extensively employed as a salad on the Continent.'' Salad Herbs, Small. There are certain plants which are employed, chiefly in the seed leaf, o-r when very young, for the purpose of procuring salads thi'oughout the year, or at times and in situations when no others can be had. Some of these are also mixed with the larger salad plants to improve their flavour or wholesome qualities. The sort most in use in this country are mustard, cresses, rape, turnip, radish, white cabbage, cabbage-lettuce, &c. Some of these may be procured at all seasons of the year, and are cut when not over a week or ten days old. Being of a warm relish, if allowed to grow too large, so as to run into the rough leaf, they become of a disagreeably strong hot taste. Mustard is remarkable for the rapiditj' of its growth, and on this account is frequently sowm in the ground, as a small salad, together with cress. The seeds strewed on wet flannel, and placed in a warm situation, even by the fireside, frequently shoot out their seed-leaves in a day or two sometimes even in a few hours a circumstance which is frequently taken advantage of in long voyages. Ships going to the East Indies used to have boxes jDlaccd on the deck wherein mustard and cress were sowed for the purpose of getting salad on the voyage; and the number of crops thus raised was surprising. The garden-cress stands at the head of the small-salad plants, and is much cultivated for this purpose. It has a very warm but pleasant flavour. By the aid of a little artificial heat, it may be had fresh all through the winter. The variety known as jVmerican cress grows ?wild in Great Britain on moist or watery ground. It is aromatic and pungent, but rather bitter. It is sometimes cultivated for winter and early spring salad. It occasionally goes under the name of French cress. The winter cress is also found wild in this country in watery spots and slow-running streams. In flavour and use it much resembles the last. The water cress has long been highly esteemed. It is found in great abundance on the edges of running streams, preferring clean water to that which is muddy. Care must be taken to distinguish it from the water-parsnip, which often grows with it, and which is poisonous. Burnet, another small-salad herb, is a perennial plant indigenous to Britain, and found in dry, upland, calcareous soils. It is occasionally cultivated in gardens. The leaves of the burnet are used in salads ; when lightly bruised, they smell like cucumber. They have a somewhat warm taste. Rape, a native of Britain, is sometimes grown in gardens, and its leaves are used for salad in the same way as mustard and cress. Salad Mixture. Endeavour to have your salad herbs as fresh as possible; if you suspect they are not " morning gathered,'' they will be much refreshed b}' lying an hour or two in spring- water ; then carefully wash and pick them, and trim oft' all the worm-eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves ; and, after washing, kt them remain a while in the colander to di-ain ; lastly, swing them gently in a clean napkin. "WTien properly picked and cut, arrange them in the salad dish, mix the sauce in a soup plate, and put it into an ingredient bottle, or pour it down the side of the salad dish, and don't stir it up tiU the mouths are ready for it. If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trimmed neatlj', and drained dry, and the sauce-maker ponders jjatiently over the following directions, he cannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished salad-dresser : Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in a basin of cold water for a few minutes the yolks must be quite cold and hard, or they will not incorporate with the ingredients. Hub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a table-spoonful of water oifine double cream, then add two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted butter ; when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful of salt or powdered lump sugar, and the same of made mustard ; when these are smoothly united, add very gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorporated with them ; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the salad with it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do not stir up the salad till it is to be eaten. We recommend the eaters to be mindful of the duty of mastication, without the due performance of which all undressed vegetables are troublesome company for the principal viscera, and some are even dangerously indigestible. Br. Kitchiner. Salad Mixture, Quihi. Rub the yolks of thi-ee hard-boiled eggs Arith the back of a wooden spoon till quite smooth, and beat in drop by drop three dessert-spoonfuls of fine salad oil. Add, just as slowly, six dessert-spoonfuls of vinegar, four of mushroom ketchup, three of anchovy essence, four salt-spoonfuls of salt, and four of mixed mustard. A spoonful SAL (795) SAL of thick cream mixed with a wcU-mashcd floury potato will greatly improve this salad. Wash the lettuce, diy it perfectly, shred it finely, and just before it is wanted mix the salad dressing lightly with it. Salad of Herrings. Soak a couple of herrings in milk for an hour to take out the salt. Bone them, and tear the flesh into flakes. Mix with them half a dozen cold boiled potatoes cut in slices as for potato salad, and add a salt-spoonful of finely-minced onion. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and work lightly into them a simple salad dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. This salad should be a little moist, therefore add a spoonful or two of milk to the dressing if it is too dry. If liked, cold meat finely minced, soui- apples, and boiled beetroot may be put into it. The ch'essing should he added just before the salad is about to bo served. Probable cost of hen-ings, Id. to 2d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Salad Oil. The source of this oil is the olive [Olca curopma). The plant is cultivated . extensivel}' in France, Italy, and Spain. When the fruit is ripe it contains oil in great abundance. Between eleven and twelve thousand gallons of this oil are annually imported into this country, principally for consumption as a dressing in salads. It is much more largely used on the Continent, where it takes the place of butter. It is a verj' wholesome article, and it would be well if people in this country would cultivate a taste for its use, especially in making salads. " In this coimtry," says a well-known authority, " these very valuable adjuncts to our food are rendered exceedingly disagreeable; first, by the want of drjang the plant used ; and in the next by its being deluged with vinegar. A salad properlj' prepared should have the leaves of the plant used diied to such an extent that they will readity absorb the dressing poured over them, which should consist of two-thirds or threefourths olive oil. I need not also add that the oil should not be rancid ; but such is the thorough carelessness with which these articles are put on our tables, that in nine cases out of ten the oil is rancid and unfit for use. This, perhaps, accounts for the flood of ?\anegar to drown its flavour.'' Salad, Red Cabbage. Take a red cabbage with a firm heart and two heads of celery. Shred the best parts of both finely, and mix them together. Work them up lightly with a spoonful or two of good salad sauce, garnish the dish with tufts of celery, and then serve. Salad, Roman. The Romans used salad, and made it in this way : Cultivated endive was cut small after careful washing and draining, then gravy and oil were poured over it ; finely-minced onions were strewed over the whole, then a little vinegar and honey were added, and the salad was sent to table. Salad Sandwiches. Prepare the bread in the usual way, and have ready some mustard and cress, watercress, all well washed and dried; put them into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and when ready for serving, spread the salad neatly between the bread. Salad Sandwiches (another way). Take some thin slices of bread. Butter these slightly, and just before they are to be used lay between two of them a little salad, washed, dried, and tossed lightly in mayonnaise sauce. Press the sandwiches closely together, cut them into small neat pieces, and serve. Salad Sauce. Take the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, a dessert-spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a little made mustard, a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a large spoonful of ketchup. When well incorporated, add four spoonfuls of salad oil and one spoonful of elder vinegar. Beat so as to incorporate the oil with the other ingredients. This mixture must not be poured upon the lettuce or vegetables used in the salad, but be left at the bottom, to be stirred up when wanted. This method preserves the crispness of the lettuce. Observe that the liquid ingredients must be proportioned to the quantity of vegetables used. Salad Sauce, Mayonnaise. Put the yolk of an c carefully freed from the white into a basin, and with a fork take away the speck. Beat it lightly, add a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, pour some oil upon it, drop by drop at first, and at the same time beat the sauce lightly and quickly. "UTien it begins ta thicken slightly increase the quantity of oil, and continue beating until it fonns a thick smooth 'cllow paste. Add gradually as much white wine vinegar as will suit the palate. The quantity requu-cd will of course vary considerably, according to individual taste. The correct proportion is one tea-spoonful of vinegar to eight of oil. Keep the sauce in a cool place till wanted. A little tarragon vinegar will greatly improve this excellent sauce. Salad Sauce, Trout in. Fry two or three trout in the usual way. Lay them on blotting paper to free them from fat, and put them aside till cold. When they are to be used lay them on a dish, pour some thick salad sauce over them, and garnish the dish with shred chervil and chives, or with lettuce hearts cut into quarters. Salad, Stuffed Eggs for. Remove the skin and bone from three ancho\'ies, pound the flesh in a mortar, and press it through a sieve. If the anchovies are objected to, substitute for them two ounces of potted ham and two ounces of veal and fat bacon. Boil six eggs for a quarter of an hour ; put them into cold water, then strip off the shell, and cut them into halves lengthwise. Take out the hard yolks, and put them in a mortar with a third of their bulk in fresh butter, the pounded anchovies, a pinch of powdered mace, and a pinch of cayenne. Pound all to a smooth paste, press the mixture into the eggs in the place where the yolks were, put the halves of the eggs together to make them look whole again, lay them on a dish, and surround them with lettuce-hearts. Send salad cream to table separately. Salad, Swedish. Take a pickled herring, remove the skin and bones, cut the flesh into dice, and mix with it its bulk in cold-dressed beef, boiled potatoes, and sour juicy apples, all SAL (796) SAL cut up small. Add four anchovies, previously soaked in milk or water for a short time, freed from skin and hone, and torn into flakes, a tahle-spoonful of well-drained capers, a tahlespoonful of pickled gherkins chopped small, a tahle-spoonful of chopped tarragon leaves, two table-spoonfuls of chopped chervil, and twenty stoned olives. Mix these ingredients lightly, add some salad dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and season the preparation rather highly. If liked, the anchovies may be omitted and a dozen or more of freshly-opened oysters may be laid upon the mixture. Salad Vinegar. Take three ounces each of shallots, sweet savory, chives, and tarragon. Bruise them in a mortar, put them into a large stone jar, and with them two table-spoonfuls of dried and powdered mint, and the same of balm. Pour over all a gallon of the best vinegar, cork the bottle securely, and put it in the sun. At the end of a fortnight strain the vinegar through a filtering bag, put it into small bottles, cork these tightly, and use the vinegar for salads, &c., instead of ordinary vinegar. " Salade " (a pickle for present use). Almost fill a quart stone jar with equal quantities of peeled onions, pared cucumbers, and sour apples, all cut into thin slices. Whilst filling the jar sprinkle in a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful and a half of cayenne, two wine-glassfuls of soy, and two wine-glassfuls of white wine. Fill up the jar with vinegar, cover the pickle with bladder, and store in a cool dry place. The preparation may he used the same day. Salads. Recipes for the following salads will be found under their respective headings : Anchovy Moor Game, a la Artichoke Soyer Beans, French Nantese Beetroot Orange Celery Partridge Chicken, Plain Poet's Recipe Chicken, Rich Potato Crab Potatoes en Salade Currant Ptarmig.\x Egg Rabbit Endive with Winter Rabbit, Simple Salad Raspberry Fish Remoilade, French French Salad Dressing German Remoulade, Green Grouse Remoulade, Indian Grouse a la Soyer Rochelle Hamburg Beef Russian Hop, German Salmagundi Indian Salsify Italian Sauce Kitchiner's Mix- Shikaree ture Sidney Smith's {see Lettuce, German Poet's Recipe) Lettuce in Salads Spanish Lobster Strawberry Lobster, German Summer Lobster Salad Turbot Dressing Vegetable Mixture {see Kit- Vinegar chiner's Salad Watercress Mixture) Winter " Our ancestors," says a great culinary authority, " served salads with roasted meat, roasted poultry, &c. They had a great many which are no longer in vogue. They ate leeks cooked in the wood-ashes, and seasoned with salt and honey ; borage, mint, and parsley, with salt and oil ; lettuce, fennel, mint, chervil, parsley, and elderflowers, mixed together. They also classed among their salads an agglomeration of feet, heads, cocks' combs, and fowls' livers, cooked, and seasoned with parsley, mint, vinegar, pepper, and cinnamon. Nettles, and the twigs of rosemary formed delicious salads for our forefathers ; and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins." Salads, Wholesomeness of. For persons of weak digestion, salads as a rule are not suited. When, however, the stomach is equal to the work, they appear generally to exercise a beneficial effect on the system, particularly in the case of salads derived from the tribe of the cruciferous plants, to which the M atercress, radish, mustard, cress, scurvy-grass, and suchlike, belong. " Many persons," says a medical writer, "with whom raw vegetables, such as salads, cucumbers, &c., invariably disagree if eaten ' undressed,' find the addition of the ordinary salad or ' Florence ' oil correct the tendency. In this country some individuals have a prejudice against the use of oil. It is difficult to see why it should extend to the beautiful preparation in question." Salads are eaten as a condiment, not as an article of aliment. They are of great use in moderating the excitement of the system which would be produced by a diet composed altogether of animal food, particularly in hot weather. They are also very effective as antiscorbutics. One should observe moderation, however, in eating salads, and they should be avoided by dyspeptic patients. Salamander. This is an instrument which is, after being made red-hot, used to brown anything wanting colour. An old iron fire-shovel if heated thoroughly and held over the article to be browned will answer the same purpose. Price, 6s. to 12s. SaleratUS. Saleratus is a carbonate of potash used in cookery to make bread or cakes light. It should be kept in a wooden box with a cover, and no moisture should be allowed to reach it, as very little will spread through and dissolve a large quantity. Saleratus should be powdered and dissolved in a little hot water before it is put into the bread. Half a teaspoonful dissolved in water and added to a pound cake will ensure its being light. Sallylunns. Sallylunns are served at breakfast or tea, and are generally much liked. They should be put on the table on a hot plate very hot and well buttered. If they are not to be used at once after being baked, it will be well not to overbake them, as they will need to be heated a second time. They are considered very indigestible. They may be made in either of the following ways : Riib half a pound of butter into two pounds of flour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast mixed with a pint of lukewarm milk, and SAL ( 797) SAL three well-beaten eggs. Cover the pan, and let it rise till light. Make the dough into thick cakes about five inches in diameter. Bake in a quick oven. Or rub two ounces of butter into a pound of flour. Add a piuch of salt, and pour in very slowlj- a table-spoonful of fresh yeast which has been mixed with half a pint of warm milk. Beat the batter with a fork or spoon as the milk is poured in, add the yolks of two eggs, and set the dough near the fire to rise. Butter the tins, fill them with the dough, and bake in a quick oven. To prepare the sallyiunns, make them hot, divide them into three slices, and butter these liberally. If a very rich cake is required, cream may be used instead of milk. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sallyiunns (Careme's recipe). Sift twelve ounces of flour, separate a fourth part, in which make a hollow, put in it nearly half an ounce of yeast and a little lukewarm cream ; mix the flour gradually with this, and put it into a small stewpan to rise (it should be very soft). "When double its first size, form the remaining flour in the requisite manner, and put in the centre a quarter of an ounce of salt, one ounce of pounded sugar, four yolks of eggs, five ounces of butter made warm only, and a gill of lukewarm cream ; stir this mixture, mingling the flour with the liquid until of a soft consistence, and beat the paste for some minutes with the palm of the hand; then, if perfect, add the leaven, and work it yet some minutes to render it smooth and elastic ; put it into a plain mould six inches wide and five inches high, well "buttered, and set it in a proper place to ferment ; when double its primitive volume, wash the top with egg, and place it in a quick oven for an hour; when serving, divide it horizontally about the centre, turn the top upside down, and the cake should present the appearance of a honeycomb ; throw on it a pinch of salt, and butter it with five ounces of the best butter, putting equal quantities on ?ach; put the top on again, and serve hot. Sallyiunns (another way). Take two pounds of flour, one pint of milk, four eggs, and two spoonfuls of yeast ; make a paste of these ingredients, and work until well risen. Then knead into it a pound of butter and a little salt ; let it stand an hour, then bake, and rasp the tops. A little pounded sugar may be added to taste to the above ingredients. Salmagundi. A salmagundi is a sort of vegetable mosaic made with pickled herring, cold dressed chicken, salt beef, radishes, endive, olives, iSrc, all arranged with regard to contrast in colour as well as flavour, and served with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. The following is a good recipe for a salmagundi : Take a large round dish; place in the centre a bunch of fresh endive, and lay round it strips of herring or anchov}-, interspersed with neat slices from the breast of a chicken. Put round these a band of hard-boilei yolk of egg chopped small, then one of green parsley, then slices of red beef or tongue, then the white of the egg, and lastly a garland of sprigs of watercress. Insert trimmed olives, green capers, radishes, l)arberries, S:c., wherever they will be most eft'ective. Serve with .salad sauce. Sometimes the herrings for a salmagundi are opened, and the flesh is taken out without injuring the skin. It is then minced with an ccjual quantity of cold chicken and grated ham or tongue, seasoned rather highly, and put back into the skins till they look plump and of a good shape. Salmagundi (another way). Take cold fowl, or turkey, or veal, or all together. Chop the meat very small, separating the white from the brown, and putting among the latter the brown part of the veal, if it be roasted. By the brown meat is understood the legs and backs of the poultry. Chop likewise the lean of some cold ham, a few boned anchovies washed, a handful of picked parsley, half a dozen shallots, some pickled gherkins, the yolks and whites separate of six hard-boiled eggs, and some roasted beetroot, after it has become cold. Now butter a basin, and place it with the bottom upwards upon a dish. Lay round this basin a ring of chopped white meat an inch and a half wide and about an inch high ; then lay upon this a ring of ham, then a ring of brown meat then one of white of egg, then one of meat, then one of yolk of egg, then one of parsley, then one of anchovies, and so on, until the whole of the materials are consumed and the basin is covered, crowning the whole with a roof of beetroot garnished with a few pickled mushrooms. The sauce must be served up in a sauce-tureen. It is thus made : Rub up a couple of good teaspoonfuls of strong mustard from the mustardpot with three table-spoonfuls of salad oU, some salt, and a little cayenne pepper. When it has become a stiff paste, add gradually one table-spoonful of white-wine vinegar, the juice of three or four lemons, a dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, two tablespoonfuls of raw capers, and a tea-spoonful of soy. Should the sauce not be suflBciently thin, add more lemon-juice or vinegar. Salmis. A salmis is simply a superior ragout of game or wild fowl. It diflEers from a hash in this, that the hash is made from the remains of dressed game, the salmis from game which has been half dressed for the purpose, and served in rich gravy or sauce. Sahnis are favourite dishes with epicures. Salmis, Cold (for suppers, &c.). I? oast a couple of partridges, a pheasant, or any other game. Cut them into neat joints, and with the bones and trimmings make a salmis sauce, according to the recipe given a little farther on. When this is pleasantly flavoured, mix with it a third of its quantity in very stifl: asjjic jelly. Cover the joints of the birds thickly with this, and let it get cold and stiff upon them. Pile them high on a dish, and garnish with clear aspic jelly cut into dice. Salmis, Hunter's. Divide a half-roasted pheasant or partridge into neat joints. Carefully remove the skin and sinews, and put the pieces into a saucepan. Pour over them a glassful of lucca oil, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira, the grated rind and juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Let the game heat slowly over a gentle fire, and when the joints SAL ( 798 ) SAL are hot through drain them, and serve with fried sippets. Salmis of Game or Wild Fowl. Put the birds down to the fire as for roasting, and take them up when they are less than half done. Gut them into neat pieces, and remove the skin, fat, and sinew from the legs, wings, and breasts. Place the joints side by side in a clean saucepan, cover them, and keep them in a cool place till wanted. Take a quarter of a pound of undressed lean ham, mince it finely, put it into a well-tinned saucepan, and shake it over the fire for three or four minutes with a slice of fresh butter. Add to it a dozen button-mushrooms, a scraped carrot, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, three shallots (or more) finely minced, four cloves, two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Mix these ingredients, and stir them over a gentle fire till the sides of the saucepan appear slightly coloured, dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and let it brown a little, then pour in gradually' a pint of good veal stock and two glassf uls of sherry. Put in the bruised bodies of the birds, let the sauce boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents sinmier gently until the sauce is smooth, thick, and pleasantly flavoured. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Clear the sauce from fat, strain, pour it over the joints of game in the saucepan, let these heat in it ve)-i slowly, and when the liquid is just about to boil, dish them. Pour the sauce over the game, and garnish the dish with fried sippets. The salmis maj be made less expensive by the omission of the mushrooms and wine. When moor fowl or black game are used, care should be taken to remove the bitter spongy substance from the body of the birds, if they have been well hung, or the flavour of the salmis will be spoilt. Time, an hour- to an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Salmis of Partridges, with Triifaes. Truss two or three partridges. Put them into a stewpan with butter and a few trimmings of fat bacon ; add the necks and gizzards, and fry them on a brisk fire for five or six minutes. Withdi-aw them on a moderate fire, cooking them with live embers on the lid ; let them half cool, and cut each of them up into five pieces, trim the skin away, and place them in a stewpan. Fry in butter the livers of the partridges, with two chickens' livers, pound and pass them through a sieve. With the backs and trimmings of the partridges jDrepare a little gravy. Skim oif the fat, reduce it to half-glaze, and add to it three gills of brown sauce; let the sauce boil up, and remove it back to clarify ; skim again, and pass it through a fine sieve. With this sauce dilute gradually the puree of liver, pour it over the pieces of partridge, which warm without allowing to boil, and dish up. On the other hand, cut some bread croutons of round shape and half an inch thick, make a circular incision on one side, fry them in butter, empty them of the crumb, and fill the veid with salpiqon of trufilcs cooked, with a little madeira and a little melted glaze. Mask the partridges with this sauce, and dish the croiitons all round. Salmis, Plain. Take a cold-dressed pheasant or a couple of partridges from which little of the flesh has been cut. Divide it into neat joints free from skin, and lay these side by side in a saucepan. Put into another saucepan the well-bruised bones and trimmings of the bird, a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or eight peppercorns, a glassful of sherry, and an inch of lemon-rind. Boil for two minutes, then add a pint of stock and a spoonful of brown thickening. Simmer all gently together till the sauce is pleasantly flavoured, smooth, and of the consistency of cream. Strain it over the pieces of pheasant, and heat slowly. Warm all gently together till the sauce is on the point of boiling, then lift the jointed bird upon a dish, pour the sauce over it, garnish with fried sippets, and serve. Time, one hour or more. Suflicient for six or seven persons. Salmis Sauce. This is a sauce for salmi of partridges, pheasants, &c. Cut four shallots and a carrot into large dice, some parsley-roots, a few bits of ham, a clove, two or three leaves of mace, the quarter of a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and a small bit of butter, with a few mushrooms. Put the whole into a stewpan over a gentle fire ; let it fry till you perceive the stewpan is coloured all round. Then moisten with half a pint of madeira and a very small lump of sugar. Let it reduce to one-half. Put in six spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and the trimmings of the partridges. Let them stew for an hour on the corner of the stove. Skim the fat ofl:, taste whether the sauce be seasoned enough ; strain it over the members, make it hot without boiling ; dish the salmi, and reduce the saiice, which strain through a tamis. Then cover the salmi with the sauce. Salmis Sauce (another way). Scrape the red part of a carrot, and put the pulp into a saucepan with a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, three or four pieces of bacon or blanched bacon-rind, three shallots chopped fine, and the bruised trimmings of the game to be used for the salmis. Add a slice of fresh butter, or a table-spoonful of lucca oil, and stir the ingredients over the fire till they are lightly browned. Moisten them gradually with half a i:)int of good brown sauce and a glassful of sherry and madeira. Stew all gently together till the sauce is very good, skim and strain it, season with pepper and salt, and it will be ready for the game. Time, one horn- or more. Sufficient for five or six persons. Salm.On. The salmon, according to Izaak Walton, is the king of fresh -water fish. It is called a river fish, because it is generally caught in rivers, and the river is its birth-place ; but the sea is its home and its pasture-ground, and to this it must return periodically to renew its strength or die. In fact, it inhabits fresh and salt water alternately, spending its winter in the sea and its summer in the river. Moreover, as the swallow returns to the roof or shed that gave it shelter, so does the salmon to the gravelly river's bed where it first saw the light. This fact has been rejjeatedly proved, and involves important consequences. SAL ( 799 ) SAL If all the salmon in a river are aiught, the river will be from that time salmonlcss, unless it can he re-stocked with young salmon, who, after being reared in it, will at the proper age find their way to the sea and return to the river again. Certainly no stranger salmon cruising along the coast will mistake that river's mouth for its own river's mouth. This fact has been ah-eady successfully taken advantage of, and salmon have been naturalised in rivers where formerly there were no signs of them. Salmon are never found in warm latitudes. They are distributed over the North of Europe and Asia, and are abundant, and even comparatively cheap, in some parts of North America. The price is kept up, however, by the facility with which the fish is packed in ice, and sent to a distance by rail. The penny-apound times, when apprentices and servants refused to eat salmon more than three times a week, are gone for ever. The llesh of the salmon is rich and delicious in flavour. To be eaten in perfection it should be dressed before it has lost a tide. When this is done there will be found between the flakes a white creamy substance which is very highly esteemed. Nevertheless, the fish when in this condition is very indigestible, and it is much more wholesome when it has been kept a day or two. Then the curd undergoes a change, and melts do\vn, and though less delicate in flavour, the fish becomes richer and much more wholesome. The flesh of the male fish has the best flavour, and has more curd than the female. Salmon is in season from the beginning of February to the end of August. It is cheapest in July and August. No other fish can be cooked in so many different ways. It requires to be well done ; when imderdressed it is wholly uneatable. Salmon (a I'Allemande). Cut the fish into slices two inches thick, leaving a small portion of fish to the head and the tail four inches long ; take away all the blood from the inside, throw some salt over the slices very equallj', and half an hour afterwards turn them. Leave them thus for nftoen or twenty minutes. tlieu wa.sh and drain them upon napkins ; butter a fish-strainer, place the slices upon it flat, and cover the greater part of the flesh with slices of lemon cut very thin and the pips taken out ; add here and there four large shallots sliced, whole white pepper, and parsley roots cut in fillets. Two hours before serving put the fish into the kettle, and place it over a bed of live ashes with fire also at the top ; thirty or forty minutes after uncover the fish, and observe that it should be firm if done sufiiciently. Take it off, uncover, and let it cool. When serving, take away the shallots and a great part of the parsley roots, dish the salmon on a napkin, commencing with the head and afterwards putting down the slices according to their size, to form the fish of its original shape, and surround it with small groups of parsley ; having dished it, pour into the kettle four spoonfuls of hot consomme to collect all the essence of the salmon, which pass through a silk sieve. Let this be well seasoned, and serve it in boats. Car vine, Salmon (a I'Amiral Soyer's recipe). Truss a small salmon in the form of the letter S, and boil it in the usual way ; dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce : peel four onions, cut them in slices, and put them into a stewpan with six table-sp 3onfuls of salad oil ; fry them a light brown colour, then pour ofi: the oil, and add two glassfuls of port wine, three cloves, one blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, one table-spoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce, and six of brown gravy ; reduce it over a sharp fire for a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tamis, and place it again in a stewpan ; boil it again a shoit time, and finish with one ounce of anchovy butter and two spoonfuls of Harvey Sauce ; then place a border of mashed potatoes round the fish, upon which dish a border of quenelles of whiting, and upon every other quenelle stick a prawn, pour the sauce over the fish, and a mazarine sauce over the quenelles ; serve very hot. To make the sauce a la ]\Iazarine, have all the spawn from two fine hen lobsters; if not sufficient, get some live spawn from the fishmongers', making altogether about two ounces, pound it well in the mortar, and mix it with half a pound of fresh butter; rub it through a hair sieve, place it upon ice till firm, then put it in a stewpan with the yolks of four eggs, a little pepper, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, place it over the fire, and proceed as for Dutch sauce, adding the same quantity of melted butter and also two tea-spoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Pass it through a tamis into a clean stewpan to make it hot. Salmon (a la Danois Danish mode). Cut the salmon in slices as directed in the recipe Salmon a I'Allemande, boil it in water with a little .salt, and dish it in its original form, as directed in the receipt named ; garnish with potatoes plain boiled, and serve in sauce-boats melted butter mixed with anchovy butter. Salmon (a la Genevese). Divide a moderate-sized salmon into three parts. Boil these in the usual way, and when they arc done SAL ( 800 ) SAL enough scrape the scales from the salmon, and lay the pieces in a line on a dish about an inch apart from one another. Have ready i rcpared some good genevese sauce, pour some of this over the fish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. The sauce may be prepared as follows : Mince finely a quarter of a pound of undressed lean ham. Put this into a saucepan with the red part of a small carrot scra])ed to pulp with a sharp knife, a blade of mace, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a slice of fresh butter. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents steam very gently for three-quarters of an hour. Dredge a teaspoonful of flour over the preparation, rub out the lumps, then moisten the whole very gradually with a pint of good veal stock. Simmer the sauce an hour longer, strain, and skim it, put it into a clean saucepan, add a spoonful of brown thickening, and when it is smooth and thick add two table-spoonfuls of lemon- juice, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a wine-glassful oi good sherry, and a little salt or cayenne. Time to make the sauce, two hours. Or lay a small slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, and when it is dissolved put in with it a moderatesized onion or two shallots finely minced, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bayleaves, a small blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire for ten minutes, then moisten gradually with half a tumblerful of sherry or madeira, -and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take two slices of salmon a little more than an inch thick. Put them into a separate saucepan, and strain the sauce over them. Stew the fish gently in this, and when it is done enough, which it will be when it will leave the bone easily, pour off the sauce into another saucepan, leaving only as much as will keep the salmon from burning. Put with the sauce half a pint of strong veal stock, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, the strained juice of a lemon, and ?a tea-spoonful of brown thickening. Boil the sauce till it is smooth and thick, and add pepper and salt. Lift the salmon on a hot dish, pour part of the sauce over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Probable cost for this quantity, 4s. SufiBcient for five or six persons. Salmon (a la Genevoise L'de's recipe). "Take a few shallots, some roots of parsley, a bunch of ditto seasoned with spices, thyme, baj -leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole be lightly fried in a little butter, then moisten with white wine (madeira in preference) . Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour. When this (called the marinade) is done, drain it through a tamis over the fish, which stew in this seasoning. As soon as the fish is sufficiently stewed, drain it, pick it well of all the scales, and return it into the vessel wherein it was boiled with some of the liquor to keep it hot. Now reduce some of the marinade with a little strong gravy or stock, skim all the fat off, and then throw in a good piece of butter kneaded in flour and a little essence of anchovies, all which run over the salmon after having drained it. Some will have lemon-juice to it, which is a matter of taste." Salmon (a la Genevoise another way). Take a good slice of salmon, and put it in a fishkettle with shallot, chopped parsley, mushrooms, salt, and spice to taste, and an equal quantity of broth and red wine. Boil the fish, and when done enough take it out ; have ready in a saucepan a piece of butter rolled in two spoonfuls of flour, thinned with some of the liquor of the fish, let this sauce boil, then pour it over the salmon, and serve. Salmon (a I'lndienne). Prepare the cutlets as for Salmon a la Milanaise. Dip them into clarified butter, and sprinkle over them a savoury mi.\ture, made with a table-spoonful of baked flour, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and a pinch of salt. Fry in plenty of hot fat till the flesh will leave the bone easily, then drain the cutlets on blotting-paper, and serve on a hot dish, with sauce prepared as follows Ijoured over and around them : Mince four shallots very finely, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar over them, and simmer till tender with a table-spoonful of good vinegar. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of stock, let the sauce boil, add a tea-spoonful of curry paste, a table-spoonful of pickle vinegar, and three table-spoonfuls of mixed Indian pickles cut into dice. Simmer for a few minutes, and serve. Time to broil the cutlets, fifteen to twenty minutes, according to thickness. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Salmon ( a la Maitre d'Hotel). Slice a moderate-sized onion into a dish. Put with it five or six small sprigs of parsley and a little pepper and salt, and pour over these a little good salad oil. Lay side by side in the marinade three slices of salmon one and a half inches thick. Let them remain for half an hour, and turn them over once during that time. Drain them, and broil over a gentle fire. Dish them neatly, garnish with plainly-boiled potatoes and green parsley, and send a little maitre d'hotel sauce to table with them. This sauce may be made as follows: Work an ounce of flour smoothly with two ounces of fresh butter, and add a quarter of a pint of milk, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is hot and smooth ; add a table-spoonful of chopped l arslcy and the strained juice of half a lemon. A\Tien the sauce is on the point of boiling, pour it into the tureen, stir in it until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter, and serve. Time to broil the salmon, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound when in full season. Salmon ( a la Milanaise). Take three or four slices of salmon, not over thick; split each one into halves, and take away the skin and bone. Dip the cutlets into sherry, lay them between sheets of buttered or oiled writing-paper which have been rubbed lightly with freshly-cut garlic, and twist the edges securely. Broil gently over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish. Send to table with the fish a sauce prepared as follows: Take two filleted anchovies and put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, two or three young onions finely minced, and a table-spoonful of minced mushroom. Stir these over the fio-e till SAL (801 ) SAL the onions bog-in to turn yellow, then dredge over them a table-si)oonful of iloui-, pour in a quarter of a pint of stoek and add a tablespoonful of chilli A'inegar, a spoonful of nnxed mustard, a little salt and cayenne, and half a glassful of sherry. Simmer the sauce till it is smooth and thick, stir in two spoonfuls of bruised capers, boil a minute or two longer, and serve. Time to broil the salmon, fifteen to twenty minutes, according to thickness. Salmon (a la Tartare). Take two slices of salmon out of the middle of a moderatesized fish, each slice of the thickness of threequarters of an inch. Wash the salmon lightly in salted water, and dry it thoroughly. Bru.sh it all over with the best salad oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil it on a gi-idiron over a gentle fire ; taking care to turn and baste it frequently. When it is done enough, which it will be when the flesh leaves the bone on a slight pressure, place it on a cold dish, and pour round it a sauce prepared as follows : ? Break the yolk of an egg, well freed from white, into a bowl ; remove the speck, add a pinch of salt, and very gradually first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls about four tablespoonfuls of good salad oil. Beat the sauce well between every addition. Afterwards stir in, very gradually, three tea-spoonfuls of good \anegar, a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and add a table-siDOonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of chopped spring onions, and a tea-spoonful of chopped chervil. If liked, three or four gherkins, finely minced, or a tea-spoonful of anchovy, may be added to the sauce, which ought to be of the consistence of thick cream. Garnish the salmon with capers, gherkins, or olives. If more convenient, the salmon can be fried and served in the same way ; it is, however, best when broiled. To prepare it for frying, mix a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs with the tenth part ?of a nutmeg grated, a small pinch of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of shred parsley. Brush the fish with clarified butter, and sprinkle the seasoned crumbs over it. Fry in plentj' of hot fat till done enough. Drain it well, and serve with the same sauce as if it were grilled. This sauce should be made half an hour before the cooking of the fish is commenced, and should be kept in a cool place, or upon ice, till wanted. If preferred, tomato sauce may be used instead of tartar sauce. Time to broil the fish, half an hour; to fry it, twenty minutes. Probable co.st, salmon Is. per pound when in full season. Sufiicient for five or si.x: persons. Salmon, Anchovy Sauce for {sec Anchovy Sauce for Salmon). Salmon and Potato Pie. Take the remains of cold boiled salmon. Free it from skin and bone, divide it into small pieces, and season one pound of it with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a grain of cayenne. Butter a shallow pie-dish, and spread over the bottom a layer of potatoes which have been mashed lightly with a little butter, milk, and the yolk of an egg. Put the pieces of fi.sh on the potato, moisten with any fish sauce that may be left, and cover with another layer of potato. Eough the top of 54 the pie with a fork, and put it in a brisk oven till the surface is brightly browned and the pie is quite hot. Serve it in the dish in which it was baked. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Salmon, Baked. Cut the fish into slices three-quarters of an inch thick. Wash it lightly in salted v ater, and dry it in a cloth. Take three-quarters of a pint of good melted butter, mix with it a pinch of cayenne, a table-spoonful of ketchup, a glassful of port, and one boned anchovy. Stir the sauce over the fire till the anchovy is dissolved, and strain it over the fish. Cover the dish, and put it into a moderatelyheated oven. When done enough, serve in a hot dish, with the sauce poured round the salmon. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, salmon, from Is. per pound. Salmon, Baked (another way). Take a moderate-sized salmon, scale and clean it, and wipe it dry. Rub it well inside and out with a mixture of pepper and salt, and fill it with a little good veal forcemeat. Sew the body up securely with soft cotton to keep in the forcemeat. Lay a stand, such as is used to bake meat upon, in a dripping tin large enough to hold the fish ; put the salmon upon it, dredge with flour, and put little pieces of butter here and there upon it. Pour a little water into the tin, and bake the fish in a well-heated oven. When the flesh will leave the bone easily, if l ressed with the finger, it is done enough. Send boiled potatoes to table with the fish, and serve melted butter, flavoured with lemon-juice, in a tureen. Time to bake a moderate-sized fish, one hour. Probable cost, 1 s. or more per pound. Sufiicient for six or eight jiersons. Salmon, Baked, with Caper or Tomato Sauce. Take two slices from the middle of a moderate-sized salmon. Wash them lightly in salted water, and dry them ijerfectlj' in a clean cloth. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over them, and, if liked, add a shallot or two or three spring onions finely minced. Place the slices of salmon side by side in a baking-dish, laj' three ounces of butter in small pieces here and there upon them, and put the dish into a moderately-heated oven. Baste the fish frequently, and when it is done enough drain it, lay it upon a dish, pour a small portion of caper sauce or tomato sauce over it, and send more to table in a tureen. Tomato sauce is particularly to be recommended for salmon dressed in this way. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, salmon, from Is. per pound. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Salmon, Boiled. The middle cut of the salmon is the best. A whole salmon is seldom sent to table unless the party be large. Scrape the scales carefully, cut off the fins and gills, and cleanse the fish thoroughly from blood. Put as much cold water into the fish-kettle as will entirely cover the fish, and with it six ounces of salt to each gallon of water. Bring it quickly to the boil, and skim carefully ; then put in the fish, and let it simmer gently ; boil moderately fast, if it is a small fish and thick, until done enough. Take it up as soon as it is SAL ( 802 ) SAL done, and if it is not immediately wanted lay it on a fish-tlrainer, and cover with hot cloths. If it is allowed to remain in the water after it is done enough the flavour will he spoilt ; unless it is thoroughly done, it will he uneatable. In order to ascertain whether it is done enough, press the flesh lightly with the finger, and if it leaves the bone easily it is done. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin, garnish with lemon and parsley, horseradish and fennel, or fennel and red currants, and send slirimp, lobster, parsley, anchovy, or Dutch sauce to table with it. A dish of sliced cucumber is usually served with boiled salmon. If lobster sauce is chosen, the salmon should be garnished with the coral. Time : experience alone can teach a cook how long to boil fish, as it varies so much in size and thickness ; as a general rule, eight minutes per pound may be allowed for thick sahnon, six minutes per pound for thin salmon. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when in full season. Sufficient, one pound and a quarter for thi-ee persons. Salmon, Boiled (another way). Put on a fish-kettle with spring water enough to well cover the salmon you are going to di-ess, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well (boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils, put in a handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises, have the fish well washed, put it in, and if it is thick let it boil very gently salmon requires almost as much boiling as meat : about a quarter of an hour to a pound of fish. Salmon, Boiled (a la Marechal). When the fish is cleaned, strew salt on both sides of it ; two hours after, perfectly wash, drain, and lay it upon a fish-strainer well buttered ; put it into the kettle with a good and well-seasoned Mire Mix, moistened with three bottles of champagne. Place it over a quick fire, and Avhen it boils throw the liquor well upon the fish ; cover, and put it into a slow oven to simmer. Every twenty minutes see that the boiling is slow and regular, and mask the fish with the Mirepoix ; give it an hour and a half's boiling; then take it up, cover it "?ath butter made lukewarm and mixed with eight yolks of eggs passed through a tamis. Strew bread-crumbs mixed with onefourth of their quantity of Parmesan cheese grated, pressing them on the salmon with the blade of a knife, and scattering drops of butter melted upon them, and give it a fine colour in the oven. Dish without disarranging its surface, and surround it with a Ragout a la Finan(,'ier with a part of the same served in a sauceboat . Careme . Salmon, Boiled, Plain (M. Soyer's way). I prefer always di-essing this fish in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about twenty minutes ; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water until boiling. Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter in a boat with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing about ten pounds will require an hour's gentle boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds half an hour. Salmon, Boiled, To Carve. For an ordinary- sized fish, cut through the fish in the direction of a to v,, and then make cross-cuts as shown in the directions of c and d, the former cut taking the thick, and the latter the thin part of the fish, a portion of which should be given to each person. If the fish is large, it would be necessary to make one or more cuts parallel with a and b. Salmon Bone, Broiled. If when a salmon is served the flesh is not taken too closely from the bone, the latter may be cut into pieces three or four inches long, and, lightly broiled over a clear fire, will make a savoury morsel for breakfast. Salt and cayerme pepper should be strewn over it before it is broiled. Salmon, Braized. Take a thick slice of salmon, weighing a little more than three' pounds, wash it in salted water, and dry it in a cloth. Fold it in oiled paper, place it on a drainer over a saucepan of fast-boiling water, and let it steam until done enough. Drain it, and pour over it a sauce prepared as follows : Bruise a table-spoonful of capers, and stir them into half a pint of good melted butter. Add a tea-spoonful of anchovy, a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, two tea-spoonfuls of soy, and a pinch of cayenne. Simmer the sauce gently for three or four minutes, add a glassful of sherry, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon juice, and serve. Time to steam the salmon, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plentiful. Salmon, Broiled. Take one or more slices of salmon an inch thick. Dry these perfectly. Rub them over with oil, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them. Rub a clean gridiron with fat, make it hot, and place the slices of salmon upon it over a clear fire. Turn the fish every five minutes till it is done enough, basting it occasionally with oil or butter. When the flesh leaves the bone easily on slight pressure the salmon is done enough. Place it on a dish, and send lobster, shrimp, or caper sauce to table with it. Time to broil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plentiful. Sufiicient, one pound and a quarter for three persons. Salmon, Broiled (another way). Take each piece of salmon and dip it in flour, lay it on a gridiron, and turn occasionally. Time, fifteen minutes to give the fish a nice pale-yellow colour. Serve with Dutch or caper sauce. . SAL ( 803 ) SAL Salmon Canapes. Cut some slices of stale bread a quarter of an inch thick. Stamp these with a plain cutter into any fanciful shapes, and fry them in clarified butter till they are lightly browned. Wlicn cold spread anchovy butter over them, and lay on the butter thin slices of smoked salmon. Serve the canapes on a small dish. Salmon Caveach. Take one or more slices of salmon an inch thick, and broil these according- to the directions already given. Let them cool, then put them into an earthen pan, and pour over the fish as much vinegar as will entirely cover it. The vinegar should have been boiled with two heads of shallots, two cloves, a small blade of mace, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, and a little salt to each quart. Pour over the top as much oil as will cover the vinegar, and put the salmon aside till wanted. Time, half an hour to broil the salmon. Probable cost of salmon, Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plentiful. Salmon, Choosing. Choose salmon with a small head and tail and thick shoulders. If fresh the body will be firm and stiff, the eyes bright and prominent, the scales bright and silvery, and the smell pleasant {nee Salmon, Freshness of). The colour of the salmon changes greatly during the course of its life. In the adult fish, the back and upper part of the head are dark blackish-blue, the abdomen is glittering white, and the sides are of an intermediate tint. On the body, and especially above the lateral line, a few dark spots are scattered. During the breeding season the male salmon assumes its most vivid hues, an orange golden tint spreading over the body, and the cheeks being marked with bright orange streaks. The size of the salmon is extreme variable. Some specimens have been caught that weighed sixty pounds, and Mr. Yarrell mentions one case where a female salmon was captured about the year 1821, and was remarkable for weighing eighty-three pounds. This great weight was owing more to the depth and thickness of the fish than the length. Salmon, Cleaning of. Begin by cutting out the giUs ; then open the belly, take out the inside, and wash it lightly ; scrape off the scales, and cut the fish in slices, or serve it whole. If the salmon is to be crimped, the scales must be allowed to remain. Sahnon-trout arc cleaned in the same way as salmon. Salmon, Collared. Split a salmon, and take one hali for the roll. Cut off the head and tail parts, scale, bone, wash, and dry the fish perfectly. Into a piece weighing four pounds rub a savoury powder made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, two drachms of powdered mace, and a pinch of cayenne. Roll the salmon up, and bind it firmly ; put it in a fish-kettle, cover it with vinegar and cold water, putting two parts of water to one of vinegar, and add two or three bay-leaves and a little pepper and salt. Cover the .saucepan, and let the fish Simmer gently till it is done enough. Serve cold with anchovy : auce or melted butter; and in order to preserve the fish, keep it covered with the liquor in which it was boiled, and pour into this a little additional vinegar. Time to boil, about anhi iu-. Probable cost, salmon, Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when in full season. Salmon, Collared (another way). Tako a slice of salmon, cut off a handful of the tail, wash the large piece weU, and diy it with a clean cloth ; rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and then make a forcemeat with what has teen cut off the tail (but take ofP the skin), and put to it a handful of parboiled oysters, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, six anchovies, a handful of sweet herbs chopped small, a little salt, some cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and grated bread : work these together into a body with the yolks of the eggs, and lay it all over the .salmon ; roll it up into a collar, and bind it with broad tape : then boil it with salt and vinegar in the water let the liquor boil before it is put in let it continue to boil, but not too fast. It will tako nearly two hours' boiling; when it is done enough, take it up into a deep pan. When the liquor is cold, put it to the salmon ; let it stand till it is wanted for use. Or it may be put into a pot that will just hold it, and clarified butter poured over it. Salmon, Crimped. Take two slices of crimped salmon, and place them in a stewpan in two quarts of boiling water, half a pound of salt being added. Boil quickly for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes ; try the bone in the centre, and if it leaves the fiesh easily the fish is done enough. Remove the fish from the boiling water the instant it is done enough to allow it to remain longer destroys the aroma. If not ready, cover it over with a wet napkin, and stand it in the hot closet ; then dish it on a napkin, and serve either lobster or shrimp sauce with it. Salmon, Crimped and Boiled. When salmon can be obtained newly caught, it is excellent crimped and boiled. It may either be crimped whole, or cut into slices two or three inches thick. When it is to be crimped whole, take it when quite fresh, remove the gills and the inside, opening the fish as little as possible. Crimp it by making deep gashes across the body on both sides with a sharp knife, plunge the fish inunediately-, into very cold water, and let it lie for two hours, changing the water every half hour. Or cut the fish into slices three inches thick ; lay these in cold water slightly salted, and let them remain for one hour. Boil the salmon according to the directions given for boiled salmon, but remember that less time is required to boil fish after it is crimped than before. Garnish the sjilmon, and serve with the same sauces as if it were plainly boiled ; or the following sauce may be sent to table : Put four ounces of fresh butter into an earthen jar. Set this in a pan of boiling water, and beat it until dissolved with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Serve in a tureen. Salmon, Crimped, with Caper Sauce. i\Iarinade your slices of salmon in a little olive-oil with salt and pepper. Threequarters of an hour before you send up, broil SAL ( 804 ) SAL them on a very slow fire on both sides. When chey are done, take ofi: the skin, and di-ain them on a clean towel to draw out all the oil. Dish them, and cover over with the caper sauce. Let it be understood that the gridiron must be on a slope, with a plafond under the fore-feet to receive the oil, the smoke of which if it fall into the fire would spoil the fish, and fill the kitchen with smoke and a disagreeable odour. Cover the slices with caper sauce. Salmon, Crimped, with Lobster Sauce. Boil the salmon quickly in salt and water. Serve up with lobster sauce. Fifteen minutes is sufficient to boil it. If you leave it too long in the water it loses all its taste and colour. Some like plain parsley and butter with it. Salmon Cromeskys. Take the remains of dressed salmon, free it from skin and bone, and tear the flesh into flakes. Put it into a saucepan with a small proportion of white sauce, a little pepper and salt, and the yolks of thi-ee eggs. A spoonful of minced truffles may be added, or not. Stir the mixtm-e over the fire for a few minutes till the eggs are set, then spread the preparation an inch thick on a plate, and leave it till cold. Divide it into equalsized portions, and mould these in the form of corks. When the cromeskys are to be served, dip them separately into frying batter, and fry in hot fat till they are brown and crisp. Drain, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. The batter may be made as follows : Put five ounces of fiour into a bowl. Add a pinch of salt, and mix it smoothly with a quarter of a pint of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of oil ; stir the mixtiu-e into the batter, and add more water if necessar}-. Ten minutes before the batter is ?wanted, add the whites of the eggs whisked to froth. Time ?o fry the cromeskys, three or fourminutes. Salmon Crumbs. This is a highlyesteemed dish in the North of Ireland. A quantity of cold boiled salmon is divided into very small fragments, and mixed with breadcrumbs, an egg or two well whisked, butter, pepper, salt, and a little vinegar ; after which it is put in a pudding-dish, and baked in an oven. The proportion of the ingredients is not very definite, but is variously regulated according to taste. Vinegar is often used with this dish. Salmon, Cured or Salted. Split open and bone the fish. Wipe it with a soft cloth, sprinkle salt over it, and leave it for twentyfour hours. Pour off the liquor, wipe the fish dry, cut it into pieces of a convenient size, rub these well with pounded saltpetre, and pack closely in a pot, with salt between the layei-s. If the salt is not dissolved in three or four days make a strong brine, and pour it, when cold, over the fish, which must be kept covered with the liquor. Salmon, Curried. Cut two moderatesized onions into slices, and fry them in hot fat till they begin to turn yellow. Mix a tablespoonful of curry powder, and a dessei-t-spoonful of curry paste very smoothly with a small quantity of good stock. Add more to make the quantity up to a pint, and pour it over the onions. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, then rub the sauce patiently tlii-ough a fine haii-sieve, return it to the saucepan, let it boil, and put into it two pounds of salmon which have been divided into smaU square pieces convenient for serving. Skim the fat from the sauce, and simmer the salmon gently until it is done enough, A little garUc or lemon- juice may be added, or not. Serve with rice on a separate dish. The remains of dressed salmon may be curried, and will need only to simmer in the sauce until they are quite hot. Time to simmer fresh salmon, about half an hour. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Salmon Cutlets (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Cut some slices of salmon in the shape of chops. Put them into a saute-pan with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt, and toss them when dinner-time is come over an equal fire. Drain the butter well, and dish the slices of salmon like a crown. Serve with maitre d'hotel sauce. For salmon you must not use any cream, as this fish is already heavy for the stomach ; put into a stewpan three spoonfuls of sauce tournee well reduced; add to it a thickening of one egg, and refine the sauce with a quarter of a pound of butter, some salt, a little cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, and some parsley chopped very fine ; work this sauce very fine, and use it when wanted. You may give this dish with several different sauces, as marechal, Dutch caper, Maintenon, ravigote, S:c. &c. Ude. Salmon Cutlets, Broiled. Sahnon cutlets are cut out of the middle or large end of the fish. Clean the fish, scrape oft' the scales, and cut slices through it an inch thick or more. Leave the skin on. Dip the cutlets in clarified butter, sprinkle pepper and salt over them, lay them on a hot gridiron, and broil gently over a clear fire. Turn them over every three or four minutes till they are done. Serve on a hot dish, 'ft'ith a little piece of butter upon each cutlet. No sauce is required, but if it is preferred, lobster or crab sauce may be sent to table in a tureen ; or a sauce may be prepared as follows : Take a quarter of a pint of good gravy. Mix with it a tea-spoonful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovj', half a teaspoonful of Harvey's Sauce, and a tea-spoonful of finely minced mixed pickles. Boil the sauce, thicken with a little floui-, and serve. Time to broil the fish, twenty to thirty minutes, according to thickness. Sufficient, two large cutlets for five or six persons. Salmon Cutlets, Broiled en Papillotes. Prepare the cutlets as before. Lay each slice on half a sheet of buttered or oiled writing-paper, put a similar sheet over it, and twist the edges securely together. Put the cutlets on a hot gridiron, and broil gently over a clear fire. Move them occasionally to keep them from bm-ning. They may be served in the papers or not, as preferred. Unless the appearance is very good it will be better that the paper should be removed, and this must be done with great care. Time to broil the salmon, fifteen to twenty minutes, according to thickness. SAIi ( 805 ) SAL Salmon, Cutlets of, Pried (another way). Cut the sahiion into slices an inch thick. Pe23per these, and bind a sage-leaf on each. Fry the fillets in hot fat till the flesh leaves the bone easily, or broil them on a gridiron over a clear fire. Place on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve. Salmon Cutlets, Scotch. Cut in the direction of the width of the tishasmany crossslices of the breadth of a finger as may be required ; put them in scalding-hot water, and let them boil ten minutes. "By this very economical proceeding, there is none of that waste which generally results from the dressing of the whole fish at once." Salmon Cutlets with Shallot Sauce. Take a large fillet of salmon, remove the skin, then divide it transversely and slantwise into slices ; beat these slightly, and pare them in an oval form. Salt them, dip them in oil, and place them on a gridiron previously warmed and rubbed with oiled paper ; broil the cutlets on both sides for twelve or fifteen minutes, basting them with oil. Dish them, and send to table with the following sauce poured over them : Put into a stewpan two table-spoonfuls of chopped shallots and four of good vinegar ; set the pan on the fire, and boil till the vinegar is reduced one-half. Remove the saucepan from the fire, and when its con- tents are about cold add the yolks of four eggs, which beat with a spoon ; add also four spoonfuls of good oil. Set the preparation on a slow fire, and thicken the sauce, stirring all the time. Eemove it back, and introduce into it by small quantities at a time half a glassful of oil alternated with the juice of half a lemon; finish with a little chopped tarragon and parsley. Salmon, Devilled. 5Iix a spoonful of mustard with two si oonfuls of lucca oil, one spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne. Cut some thin slices of kippered salmon, rub the mixture into them, and lay them on fried toast which has been seasoned rather highly with pepper or cayenne. Put the toast in a hot oven for a few minutes, and serve immediately. If liked, thin biscuits of any kind may be substituted for the toast. They must be soaked in lucca oil, and toasted tiU crisp. Salmon, Dried, Kippered, or Salted. Cut a moderate-sized salmon down the back, empty, scale, and wash it. Rub it inside and out with common salt, and let it hang to drain for twenty-four horns. Mix thoroughly one ounce of jjounded saltpetre with two ounces of bay-salt, and one ounce of common sugar. Rub the salmon with this mixture in every part, lay it on a large dish, cover it with salt, and let it lie for two days. Turn it over, and rub it again with common salt, and in twenty-four hours it will be fit for drjdng. Wipe it well, stretch it open with two sticks, and hang it in a dry cool place ; or if it is to be smoked, hang it in a chimney or smoke-house. It may bo used in a few days. Salmon, Dried or Kippered, to Dress. An excellent relish for breakfast mav be made with dried salmon, and it is specially valuable, as it can be used when other fish is not in the market. It may Ijc dressed in two or three ways. No. 1 . Wash the salmon in cold water, wipe it with a soft cloth, and lay it on a hot gridiron over a clear fire. The inside of the fish should be placed to the fire first, and it should be turned over when it is half done. Lay it on a hot dish, butter it well, and serve hot. Or cut it into slices, and heat these through in. the oven or before the fire. Serve with mustard sauce. No. '2. Soak the salmon in water, to remove some of the salt. Put it in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let it simmer gently till it is done enough. It must not boil, or the flesh will be hard. Serve with egg sauce. No. 3. Pull the skin off the salmon, and tear the thick part of the flesh into flakes. Pour boiling water over it, let it stand for three minutes, then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with as much milk as will moisten it. Let it simmer very gently for five or six minutes. Dredge a little flour over it, add a slice of fresh butter, stir the mixture for a few minutes', and serve very hot. If liked, newly-mashed potatoes can be mixed with the flaked salmon just before it is sent to table. No. 4. Wash a salted salmon, let it lie in water for twentyfour hours, changing the water several times. Scale it, cut it into four parts, put it into a saucepan, and cover with cold water. When it is half done, change the water, and simmer the salmon till it is tender. Drain it, put it into an earthenware dish, sprinkle cayenne, allspice, cloves, and mace over each piece, cover with vinegar, and let it remain for four or five hours. Serve cold for breakfast or tea. Salmon thus prepared is named Soused Salmon. Salmon, Fillets of. Fillets of salmon differ from salmon cutlets in this : that in the latter the fish is cut into slices thi-ough the bone, but in the former the flesh is raised from, the bone by means of a knife slipped along the spine. When the separation is eftected, the skin is removed, and the fish is cut into neat pieces of any shape and thickness that may be desired, though they are not often more than half an inch thick. Almost all the recipes which are given for salmon cutlets apply also to fillets, and vice versa. The time required for broiling, &c., must be regulated by the thickness of the fish. Salmon, Fillets of (a TAmericaine). Cut the flesh of the salmon into neat fillets, dip these into beaten egg, drain, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs ; fry in hot fat till they arelightly browned, put them in blotting-paper to free them from fat, serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. Send clear gravy to table with them. Time to fry, eight to fifteen minutes, according to the thickness. Probable cost, salmon. Is. to Is. 6d. per pound when plentiful. Sufficient, two pounds of salmon for four or five persons. Salmon Fillets, Fried. Cut the fish into neat fillets. Egg and bread-crumb these, and fry them in hot fat till they are done enough. Dish the fillets in a circle, and send tartar sauce, ravigote sauce, aurora sauce, or Indian sauce to table with them. By way SAL ( 806 ) SAL of variety, the centre of the circle may be filled with oysters, prawns, or shrimps, mixed in Dutch sauce, with a further quantity of sauce in a tureen. Fried fillets of salmon are frequently served without sauce, and with the juice of a lemon strained over them. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes, according to the thiclcness of the fish. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful, Is. to Is. 4d. jier x:)ound. Salmon, Fillets of, Stewed. Trim a pound of salmon into neat fillets. Dry these, dip them in flour, partially fry them, and put them on a sieve to drain. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix smoothly with this a table-spoonful of flour, and add a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of chopped fennel, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture; over the fire for four or five minutes, add a glassful of sherry, and ])ut into the sauce the half -fried fillets. Let them simmer gently for ten minutes. Lift the fish out with a slice, and place it on a hot dish. Let the sauce cool for two minutes, then stir into it the weU-beaten yolks of two eggs, then whisk it over the fire for a minute till it thickens, and pour it over the fish. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 28. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Salmon, Fillets of, with Potatoes. Split and trim a pound or more of salmon into neat fillets, egg and braid-crumb these, and fry in hot fat till they are donc enough. Drain them on a sieve before the fire. Slice some potatoes thinly ; blanch them in boiling water, drain and fry them in hot fat till they are soft without being browned. Arrange the fillets in a circle on a dish, put the fried potatoes in the centre, and send lobster sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the fillets, eight to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. Salmon Forcemeat for Garnishing, &C- Lift the flesh from the back bone of a dressed salmon, and take half a pound of it, free frpin skin and bone ; tear it into flakes, and rub it through a sieve. Put the pulp into a mortar, and pound it with five ounces of butter and five ounces of panada, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with a raw egg and a little rich white sauce. Make the forcemeat into cakes, and poach one of these in boiling water to ascertain whether or not it is of the proper consistency. If too stiff, add a little more sauce or crea.m. Keep the forcemeat in a coor place till wanted. , Salmon, Freshness of. " The freshness of the salmon," says Careme, '' may be known hy the redness of the gills and brilliancy of the eye, which is of a clear red and transparent. The flesh should be fii-m, its shape short and round, Avhich constitutes it well made, fat, and of a, good quality ; the head short and pointed ; the back of a dark blue tint, and covered with red spots-, the belly like silver; small scales compactly placed cover its whole surface, and, when the fish is fresh, are very brilliant, but if not, become dull and clouded.'' Salmon Fried in Slices. Cut four or five thin slices of salmon, cleanse and dry them well, then season, flour, and dip them in egg beaten up and bread-crumbs. Plunge them into hot hog's-lard. Fry for ten minutes or so ; when of a nice colour,' drain the slices, and sprinkle salt over them. Dish on a folded napkin, and send them to table surrounded with halves of lemon. Salmon Fritters. Take the remains of dressed kippered salmon. Remove the skin and bone, and tear the flesh into small flakes. Mix with these an equal quantity of potatoes mashed with plenty of cream. Bind the mixture ?with yolk of egg, make it into small cakes or fritters, and fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and serve on a hot dish : garnish with hard-boiled eggs minced and placed round the dish in small mounds, white and yellow alternately. Send mustard sauce to table in a tureen. Time, five or six minutes to fry the fritters. Salmon Gwilts, or Salmon Peel. These are the small salmon which run from about five or six to ten pounds. They are very good, and make handsome dishes sent to table crooked in the form of the letter S. Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackerel, &C. &C., Pickled (Dr. Kitcliiner's recipe). Cut the fish into pieces of a suitable size, do not take off the scales ; then make a brine strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil the fish ; it must be boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it, and do not overboU it. When the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to di-ain off all the liquor ; when cold, ack it close in the kits, and fill them up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it) and the best vinegar ; let them rest for a day, fill up again, striking the sides of the kit with a cooper's adze until the kit will receive no more ; then head them down as close as possible. This is in the finest condition when fresh. Salmon is most plentiful about midsummer ; the season for it is from February to September. Some sprigs of fi-esh-gathered young fennel are the accompaniments. The three indispensable marks of the goodness of jjickled salmon arc 1st, the brightness of the scales, and their sticking fast to the skin ; 2ndly, the firmness of the flesh ; and, 3rdly, its fine pale red-rose colour without these it is not fit to eat, and was either stale before it was pickled, or has been kept too long after. The above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it for the London market. Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its pickle liquor, is a favourite dish at Newcastle. Salmon, How to Cook. As soon as a salmon is killed it ought to be crimped, by making incisions between the head and the tail, two inches wide and one inch deep. It should then be placed in cold water wellwater if possible for one hour, and laid in a fish-kettle with as much cold water as will cover it, together with a quarter of a pound of salt and as much vinegar as will make the water slightly acid. As soon as the water is SAL (807) SAL scalding hot, but not boiliug-, take it off, and pour the water into a pan, and put it away in a cold place, leaving the fish in the strainer. Place the strainer with the fish upon it oyer the pan of hot fish-water, to cool together, where it shoidd remain until the next day, when the fish should he placed again in the fish-kettle with the same water in which it was scalded ; and when it is again warmed it is done. It must not boil. "When there is more dressed salmon than can be eaten, it is particularly good fried in batter. It should be slightly sprinkled with salt before the batter is added, and if there is any Granville sauce, a little of it put on the pieces of salmon under the batter is a great improvement. Food Journal. We find the following account of the perfect mode of cooking salmon in Sir Himiphrey Davy's " Salmonia : " " We must now prepare him for the pot. Give him a stunningblow on the head to deprive him of sensation, and then gi 'e him a transverse cut just below the gills, and crimp him by cutting to the bone on each side, so as almost to divide him into slices, and now hold him by the tail that he may bleed. There is a small spring, I see, close under that bank, which, I daresay, has the mean temperature of the atmosphere in this climate, and is much under 50¦. Place him there, and lot him remain for ten minutes, and then carry him to the pot, and let the water and salt boil furiously before you put in a slice, and give time to the water to reco 'er its heat before you throw in another, and so with the whole fish, and leave the head out, and throw in the thickest pieces first." The rationale of this process of crimping is thus given: "I conclude that the fat of salmon between the flakes is mixed with much albumen and gelatiae, and is extremely liable to decompose, and by keej)ing it cool the decomposition is retarded, and by the boiling salt and water, which is of a higher temperature than that of common boiling water, the albumen is coagulated and the cui-diness preserved. The crimping, by preventing the irritability of the fibre from being gradually exhausted, seems to preserve it so hard and crisp that it breaks under the teeth ; and a fresh fish not crimped is generally trout." Salmon crimped in this manner, which preserves the natural taste, should have no other sauce than a spoonful of the sjilt and water in which it has been boiled, with the addition of a little lemon- juice (or, if that cannot be had, vinegar) and pepper. Some persons, however, object to the curdy state of the fish, and prefer it when it has been kept a day or two, when the curd has partly softened into oil, which gives a richer taste. Salmon, Imperial Fashion (Careme's recipe) . The fish being cleaned, throw salt in the inside, and rub some on the outside ; three hours after wash it in several waters, drain and ?w-ipe it, and fill the interior with a forcemeat of whitings. Keep the fish in its first shape, and lay it "in a fish-kettle with a ilircpoix- moistened with two bottles of champagne wine (the head should be tied) and as much fish stock. Wlien it boils cover it with a large sheet of strong paper, buttered, and let it boil slowly for an hour, then let it cool in its braze ; take it up afterwards on the di-ainer, nearly remove all the skin from it, and glaze the best side with a light fish glaze, to which you have added some craj'fish butter. Slide it carefully on the dish upon a napkin, and surround it with parsley, on which place a row of crayfish ; afterwards, with a row of the livers of buibots or carp roes, dressed as usual ; when serving, garnish it with eight hatelets of aspics, ornamented with crayfish tails and carjj roes; serve in one sauce-boat a white mayonnaise with aspicjelly, and in the other a ravigote of oil, in which add the flesh of a lemon cut in verj- thin slices, and the pips removed. Serve cold. Salmon, Importance of, " Salmon fish," Marshall observes, "are copious and constant sources of human food; they rank next to agriculture. They have, indeed, one advantage over evei'y internal product their increase does not lessen other articles of human subsistence. The salmon does not prey on the product of the soil, nor does it owe its size and nutritive properties to the destruction of its compatriot tribes. It leaves its native river at an early stage of growth, and going, even naturalists know not where, returns of ample size and rich in human nourishment, exposing itself in the narrowest streams, as if Nature intended it as a special boon to man. In every stage of savageness and civilisation, the salmon must have been considered as a valuable benefaction to this country." Salmon, Kippered. This is a favourite breakfast dish in Scotland. After taking out the inside of the salmon, scale and split it ; then rub the fish with common salt and Jamaica pepper, and let it drain for twenty-four hom-s. I\Iix together salt, coarse sugar, and a little saltpetre, and rub the fish well once or twice with this. Leave it in a tray to pickle for two days ; then wipe and dry it, stretch it on sticks, and suspend it in the smoke of a wood or turf fire to dry. If less smoking is desired, the fish may be dried partly by the heat of a fire and the sun. Kippered salmon is eaten boiled and just warmed through. Salmon, Kippered (another way). The following article on the method of preparing salmon-kipper in Scotland is quoted by Donoran from the Mirror : ' ' All the blood is taken from the fish immediately after it is killed ; this is done by cutting the gUls. It is then cut up the back on each side the bone, or chine, as it is commonly called; the bone is taken out, but the tail, with two or three inches of the bone, is left ; the head is cut oft' ; aE the entrails are taken out, but the skin of the belly is left uncut ; the fish is then laid, with the skin undermost, on a board, and is well rubbed and covered over with a mixture of equal quantities of common salt and Jamaica pepper. Some of this mixture is carefully spread under the fins, to prevent them from corrupting, which they sometimes do, esjiecially if the weather is warm. A board with a large stone is sometimes laid upon the fish SAL ( 808 ) SAL with a view to make the salt penetrate more effectually. In some places, instead of a flat board a shallow wooden trough is used, by which means the brine is kept about the fish ; sometimes two or three sahnon are kippered together in the same vessel, one being laid upon the other. The fish, with the board or trough, is set in a cool place for two or three days ; it is then removed from the board, and again rubbed with salt and i epper, after which it is hung by the tail, and exposed to the rays of the sun or the heat of the fire. Care is previously taken to stretch out the fish, by means of small sticks or hooks placed across it from side to side ; after it has remained in the heat a few days it is hung up in a dry place until used. Some people, in order to give the kipper a peculiar taste, highly relished by not a few, carefully smoke it with peat-reek or the stalk of juniper bushes. This is commonly done by hanging it up so near a chimney in which peats or juniper bushes are burnt as to receive the smoke. There it remains two or three weeks, by which time it generally acquires the required flavour." Salmon, Marinaded. No. i. Cut three moderate-sized onions in slices, and chop into small pieces a turnip, a carrot, and three or four outer sticks of celery. Add two table-spoonfids of chopped parsley and two bay-leaves. Put these ingredients into a saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir briskly over a quick fire for eight or ten minutes. Pour over them a pint of vinegar, and add a dessertspoonful of salt, a dozen peppercorns, and a blade of mace. Simmer the pickle for a few minutes, and add three pints of water. Put in two or more thick slices of salmon, and boil them gently until done enough. Leave the fish in the marinade till cold, and serve with a little of the pickle (strained) in the dish with it. No. 2. Cut some slices of salmon an inch and a quarter thick, brush them over with clarified butter, and fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then lay them in an earthen jar. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them for ten minutes with a sliced onion, one or more bay-leaves, a piece of thin lemon-rind, a sprig of tarragon, and a little salt and whole pepper. Let the marinade cool, and strain it over the salmon. A little oil poured over the top will make the salmon keep for some time. Salmon, Matelote of. Boil in the usual way two or three thick slices from the tail end of a large salmon, or, if liked, boil instead a small salmon, trussed in the form of the letter S. When done enough, drain the fish, put it upon a dish without any napkin, and pour over it and around it some sauce prepared as follows : Put three-quarters of a pint of thick brown sauce into a stewpan with eighteen buttononions which have been fried in butter till brown. Let them boil for ten minutes, and add two glassfuls of claret, a small lump of sugar, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is thick and coats the spoon. After it is taken from the fire, stir a small piece of fresh butter in it until dis solved. Mushrooms or oysters may be added to this sauce if liked. It ought to bo very savoury. When brown sauce is not at hand, it may be easily and quickly made by kneading together in a saucepan equal proportions of butter and flour, stirring the mixture quickly over a slow tire till it is lightly browned without being at all burnt, and moistening it with stock made from bones, or, failing this, with water. Time to make the sauce, half an houi-. Probable cost of salmon, when plentiful, Is. t& Is. 4d. per pound. Salmon, Matelote of (another way. Take two or three slices of salmon, lay them in a small kettle with a strainer, stew them very gently in a quart of veal gravy and a gill of Harvej-'s Sauce for twenty minutes ; lift out the strainer with the fish, pour off the gravy into a stewpan, retm-n the strainer with the fish to keep warm, thicken the gravy with arrowroot, season with pepper and salt, add a quarter of a pint of sherry, a gill of capers, a dozen of pickled gherkins cut in slices; pour the whole back again over the slices of salmon. Let them simmer five minutes, and serve immediately. Salmon, Mayonnaise of. Mayonnaise of salmon consists of salmon boiled and then allowed to go cold, served with salad and mayonnaise sauce. It is a dish which is very highly esteemed, and one which affords ample scope for the display of the artistic faculty. The salmon may be boiled and dished whole, or it may be divided into flakes two inches, long and an inch wide. Instructions for both methods are here given. The salmon may be ])oilod in the usual way, or for a superlative dish it may be dressed as follows: Put a moderate-sized carx-ot sliced into a saucepan with four shallots, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of chervil, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a slice of fresh butter. Steam the ingredients for four or five minutes, then pour in as much boiling water as will barely cover the fish, and add two glassfuls of light wine. Put in a piece of salmon weighing about five pounds, let it boil up quickly, skim the liquor, then draw the saucepan "back a little, and simmer the fish gently till it is done enough; drain it, and leave it till cold. If the salmon is to be served whole, dish it on a napkin, garnish round with small salad and crayfish, and stick prawns and parsley into the salmon with silver skewers. Send mayonnaise sauce to table in a boat. "When the salmon is to be broken up, boil it, let it get cold, remove the skin and bone, and divide into neat pieces. Trim these neatly, and if plainly boiled, season each one with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Trim and wash two large lettuces or any other salad. Dry the leaves perfectly by shaking them in a napkin held by the four comers. Shred them finelj-, put a layer of salad in a bowl, place on this two table-spoonfuls of the sauce, and then part of the salmon, vnth a little more sauce, and roj eat until all the ingredients are used. Ornament the toj) with slices of fresh cucumber, garnish the base with a border of hard-boiled eggs, prawns, (S:c.,and let a trellis-work of beetroot rest upon the eggs. The decoration of this dish may be SAL ( 809 ) SAL vaxied indefinitely, ilake the sauce as follows : Put the yolk of an egg, freed from white, into a basin, add pepper and salt, and stir in very gradually about four ounces of oil. The oil should be dropped in at first, and well beaten between every addition. The success of the sauce depends upon this being done. After every eighth tea-spoonful of oil put in alternately a tea-spoonful of plain vinegar and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. The sauce should, when finished, have the appearance of very thick cream. Taste, and, if necessary, add further seasoning, and, if liked, a spoonful of chopped chervil, a spoonful of mustard, and a little anchovy. The seasoning ought as a rule to be rather high. Keep the sauce in a cool place tiU wanted, and do not dish the salmon until a short time before it is required. Probable cost of salmon, Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plentiful. A mayonnaise by no means to be despised may be made from tinned salmon. When the fish is torn into flakes, three-quarters of a pound of salmon will make a dish sufficient for six persons. Salmon, Mould of (for supper or luncheon). No. 1. Take a slice of dressed salmon weighing about a pound. Fry this in hot fat till it is lightly browned, then pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste with its weight in fine bread-crumbs which have been soaked in hot milk for ten minutes. Season the mixture rather highly vith salt and pepper and a blade of mace powdered. Bind it together with the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, press it into a buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven, or steam it as a pudding would be steamed. Turn it out carefully, and garnish the dish with crayfish, parsley, or button-mushrooms. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, '2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. No. 2. Butter a mould rather thickly, and fill it with slices of fresh salmon, freed from skin and bone, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Pack the slices as closely as possible, and fill the crevices with butter. Cover the mould closely, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for an hour. Turn it out carefully, and garnish the dish with parsley. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful, Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Salmon Moulded in Jelly. Soak an ounce of gelatine in as much cold water as will cover it. When it has absorbed the water, put it into a saucepan with a pint of clear stock pleasantly flavoured. Stir the gelatine over the fire till it dissolves, then pour it out, and let it cool. Whisk the white of an egg ??'ith a table-spoonful of cold water and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir this briskly into the jelly, and when scum begins to form leave it untouched, and let it boil for ten minutes. Put it by the side of the fire to settle ten minutes longer, and then strain through a jelly-bag till it is clear and bright. Boil a pound and a quarter of salmon in very little water. As soon as it is done enough take it up, and when cold cut it into one-inch squares. Pour a little of the jelly into a mould, and arrange some of the pieces of salmon in this, remembering to put the skin and the pink flesh alternately to the outside of the mould. Let the jelly set, then put in another layer of salmon ; cover this with jelly, and let it also set, and repeat until the mould is full. Turn the jelly out when it is quite cold. Time, some hours to stifiien the jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a small breakfast or luncheon dish. Salm.on Omelette. For an omelette made with six eggs, take as much cold di-essed salmon, freed from skin and bone, as would equal in bulk three hen's eggs. Tear this into flakes, and heat it gently in a saucepan with any remains there may be of lobster, shrimp, oyster, or anchovy sauce. If no such remains are at hand, a little melted butter must be made for the purpose. Season the ragout delicately with pepper, nutmeg, and lemonjuice, and be careful to let it be very thick. Prepare and fry the omelette in the usual way {see Omelette). Place the hot ragoiit in the centre, and finish it as in other cases. Work a spoonful of blanched and chopped parsley into a lump of butter. Place this in the centre of a hot dish, put the omelette upon it, and serve immediately. The butter melting beneath the omelette will make the only sauce required. When kippered salmon is used, the flakes of fish may be beaten up with the eggs and fried with the omelette. Time, a few minutes to heat the fish in the sauce. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for tkree or four persons. Salmon on the Banks of the Rhine. . The following recipe is given by M. Dubois in his "Cosmopolitan Cookery:" " Cook three pounds of good sauer kraut according to th& usual rules. Take a good piece of a fresh Rhine salmon, which cut into slices (about thirty of which will be required) ; beat them slightly, and pare them into scallops. Season and place half of them on a plate. Put the other half into a buttered saute-pan. Boil in white wine about forty middling-sized crayfish ; put by six of the finest, removing the tails and shells of the smallest ones to prepare some crayfish butter. At the same time blanch five dozen oysters. Prepare half a pound of quenelle-forcemeat of pike, which finish with a piece of crayfish butter, and scooping it off with the spoon, mould four dozen middling-sized quenelles. Prepare a little light-brown roux ; dilute it by degrees with the oyster and crayfish liquor, as well as with a little fish-broth mixed with the trimmings and bones of the pike and salmon. Thicken the sauce, stiiTing it until boiling; remove it back, and let it simmer for half an hour. Skim off the fat, pass it through a tamis, reduce it, thicken with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and keep it in the bain-marie. A quarter of an hour before serving, bread-crumb the pickled scallops, and colour them on both sides with clarified butter. Fry the remainder on a sharp fire, drain them of the butter, add the quenelles and poached oysters, as well as the crayfish tails. Jlask these garnishes with the prepared sauce, and keep the ragout hot. AVhen ready to serve, drain all the moisture off the sauer kraut, thicken with two spoonfuls of sauce, pile it upon a dish, leaving a hole in the centre, which fill with the ragout of fish, on the top of which set the six crayfish put by, whole, but SAL ( 810 ) SAIi with their tails pickled. SuiTound the saucr kraut at its hiise with thu fried scallops, and serve immediately." Salmon Peel. Salmon peel is the name given to un inferior variety of sahuon, which seldom reache.s to moie than a few pounds in weight. It should be dres.sed like ordinary salmon. On account of its small size it is generally boiled whole, and in the shaj e of the letter S. To truss it in this form, pass a packing-needle, threaded with strong twine, through the eyes, and tie it securely under the jaw, afterwards run the needle through the thick part of the tail of the fish, and tie it tightly. Salmon Pickle, Irish {see Irish Salmon Pickle). Salmon, Pickled. A whole salmon or part of one may be pickled, and will form a handsome dish, or, if preferred, the remains of cold boiled salmon may be preserved in this way. Recipes are given for both methods. No. 1. Clean, scale, and boil a moderate-sized salmon in the usual way ; drain it, and let it cool. Take equal parts of the water in which it was boiled and of good vinegar : let there be altogether as much liquor as will cover the fish. Put it into a sauce23an with a dozen cloves, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a tea-spoonful of whole allspice; let it boil; skim it, stir a slice of fresh butter into it until dissolved, and pour it over the fish. Put it in a cool place till wanted. It will keep for some days if required. Xo. 2.. Put a whole fi-esh salmon or part of one into a large earthen jar, cover with equal parts of vinegar and water, add salt, cloves, peppercorns, and spices, as in the last recipe, and lay one or two bay-leaves on the top of the liquor. Bake the salmon in a moderate oven. When the flesh leaves the bone easily on being lightly pressed with the finger it is done enough. Leave the salmon in the liquor in which it was Ijaked, and set it in a cool place till wanted. If fresh vinegar is added, and the pickle is boiled every now and then, it will keep good for some time, and may be used again and again for the same pui-pose. No. 3. Split a salmon open down the backbone, and di%ide the flesh into pieces about five inches square. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the. pieces, and lay them in an earthen pan. Pour as much good vinegar over them as will cover them, set the lid on the pan, and put in a moderate oven. Bake tlie fish gently until (lone enough. Kee]) it under the pickle until it is wanted, and stn-ve with a small portion of the pickle in the dish with it. Salmon, Pickled (another way). Cut the salmon across in slices about an inch and a half or two inches thick. Then rub each piece over with the following seasoning : Pound one ounce each of mace, Jamaica pepper, and cardamom seeds, half an ounce of allspice, and a drachm of cloves ; mix these with half a pound of pounded bay-salt and two grated nutmegs. Add also a little pounded bay-leaf and a very small quantity of dried and powdered mint. Eub this seasoning well into every bit of salmon, then cover each piece with yolk of beaten egg, and strew seasoning over it again. I'ill a small frying-pan half full of olive oil, and fry one piece of salmon at a time until it is of a rich yellow-brown colom-. As each piece is fried, put it upon a hair sieve. When all are fried, let them drain imtil they are quite cold. Then put at the bottom of a stone jar a small branch of fennel and a little sprig of tarragon ; upon it a layer of pieces of salmon, on this a bay-leaf, another little branch of fennel and another little sprig of tarragon, then pieces of salmon, then a bay-leaf ; and so on until all the salmon is in. Then fill the jar with vinegar an inch above the fish, and over this put a thick layer of oHve oil. Salmon pickled in this way will keep good for twehe months if required. Salmon, Pickled (Cold Meat Cookery). No. 1. Take the remains of dressed salmon. Remove the skin, lift the flesh from the bones, and divide it into neat pieces. Make as much pickle as will cover the fish, composed of equal portions of A-inegar and of the Liquor in which the fish was boiled, and boil it for ten minutes with salt, pepper, and spices proportionate in quantity to that of the pickle. Let the liquor cool, then pour it over the salmon, and set it in a cool place till wanted. In twelve hour's it will be fit for use. Garnish the dish with fennel or bunches of red-ciu'rants, or a little lobster coral. No. 2. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan. Put into this three moderate-sized onions sliced, a turnip cut into dice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Stir the ingredients over a gentle fire for four minutes, tlicn pour upon them a pint of water and a pint of vinegar, and add two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. Boil the pickle till the onions are tender. Put the dressed fish, freed from skin and bone and divided into neat pieces, into a shallow pan, strain the pickle over it, and set it in a cool place till wanted. The pickle may be used again and again if it is boiled up occasionally with a little fresh ?s'inegar. Salmon Pie. Take about three pounds of fresh salmon. Remove the skin, raise the flesh from the bones, and divide it into pieces convenient for serving. Season every piece separately with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. The latter of these must be added sparingly. Shell a pint of shrimps, and pound them with an ounce of butter and a pinch of cayenne. Put the pieces of salmon in a dish, and intersperse the pounded shrimps amongst them. Slake some fish gravy by boiling the skin and bones of the fish in w ater till the liquor will jelly when cold. Fill the dish -with this, cover it with good pastr}', and bake in a well-heated oven. This pie is too rich for delicate stomachs. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, 4s., with salmon at Is. per pound. Suflicient for six or eight j ersons. Salmon Pie, Cold, with Truffles. Cut two pounds of raw salmon into middlingsized squares, lard them with fillets of truffles and anchovies, season with salt and si:)ice; fry them a few minutes with butter in a stewpan. Then pour over half a glassful of sherry, which must be reduced; remove the stewpan back, add to the fish a pound of peeled raw truffles cut in quarters and seasoned, cover the stewpan, and let all the ingredients cool together. Chop SAL (811 ) SAL verj' fine ton ounces of lean pork or veal, with the same quantity of raw pike or eel. Add to this mince a pound of fresh fat bacon, pound the whole together, and pass it through a sieve. Season well the forcemeat with salt and spices, and add to the above the trininiings of truffles, pounded with a little bacon, and passed through a sieve. I'repare a short paste, as in the recipe Salmon Pie, Hot. Butter a cold pie-mould of either round or oval shape, which set on a baking-sheet covered with pajjer, line it with two-thirds of the paste, and mask the bottom and sides with a thin layer of forcemeat-; fill the hollow with the squares of fish, and the truffles and forcemeat mixed, i-ange the preparation in a dome-shape fashion, rising above the rim of the mould, mask it with little sUces of bacon, then with a thin round flat made with the remainder of the paste. Cover the pie, pinch, decorate, and give it a nice colour ; push it into a moderate oven. Seven or eight minutes afterwards cover it entirely with paper ; bake it for two houi's ; then remove it from the oven, and half an hour after having been taken out, pour into the hollow on the top two glassfuls of aspic jelly mixed with a little Madeira. A quarter of an hour after take out the mould, and let the pie cool for twenty-four hours in-evious to being served. M. Dubois. Salmon Pie, Hot. Make a short paste as follows : Take a pound of flom- and spread it in a circle on a slab, lay in the centre the yolk of an egg, ten ounces of butter, half a glassful of water, and a pinch of salt. Dilute the butter with the liquid, and then introduce the flom- gi-adually into it. As soon as a firm paste is obtained, break {briscr) it three times \\-ith the palms of both hands, gather it up, and set it on one side for half an hour. Take a round pie-mould, butter the inside well, and set it on a baking-sheet. Then make a quenelle forcemeat with ten or twelve ounces of the flesh of pike. Take about a pound and a half of fresh salmon, remove the skin and bones, and divide the flesh into squares. Chop one onion, fry it in a stewpan with oil and butter, adding a few spoonfuls of fresh-chopped mushrooms. Whenever their moisture is reduced, add two or three raw chopped truffles and the pieces of salmon. Fry over a sharp fire for a few minutes, season with salt and spices, and moisten with half a glassful of madeira . Let the whole boil for a few minutes, keeping the saucepan covered. Mould twothirds of the prepared paste into a ball, and roll it out into a thin, circular, flat form. Raise the sides of this paste, pressing it between the fingers so as to form the paste into a sort of bag. Lift the paste carefully, and place it on the mould, co 'ering it well at the bottom and along the sides; cut the paste half an inch above the rim of the mould, and then mask it at tlie bottom and along the sides with a layer of forcemeat. Above this layer place half of the slices of salmon with some of the fine herbs ; mask again with forcemeat, and pile up the rest of the fish in a dome-like shape, rising above the rim of the mould. Cover the pieces of salmon with another layer of forcemeat, and place over all the rest of the paste rolled out verj- thin. Fasten the two flats of paste on the edges, pressing the paste so as to render it thinner;cut it regulai-ly, in order to be pinched all round with pastry-pincers. " With the trimmings of the paste," says M. Dubois, to whom we arc indebted for the above particulars, " prepare a j few imitation leaves, which arrange as ;i j rosace on the dome, on the top of which form a small cavity;, cover it with three small I'ounds of paste, of different sizes, placed one above another like a pyramid. Egg the pie, and push it into a moderate oven; seven or eight minutes later cover it with paper, and I bake it for one hour and a half. On taking it out, having put' it on a dish, remove the mould, and cut the dome all round its centre, by which apertm-e pour into the pie a little white sauce, reduced with extract prepared with wine, and the trimmings, and bones of the pike and salmon. Cover the pie, and serve. Salmon, Potted. Scale and dry a fresh salmon. Slit it down the back, take out the bone, and mix some grated nutmeg, mace, pepper, and salt,' and strew it over the fish. Let it lie two or three hours ; then lay it in a large pot or pan, put to it half a pound of butter, and bake for an hour. Vhen done, lay it to drain ; then out it up, and put the pieces in layers, with the skin uppermost, in pots ; place a board over the pots, and lay on it a weight to press the salmon down till cold : then take the board and weight oft', and pour clarified butter over. Salmon potted in this way may be sent to table in pieces or cut in slices. ' Salmon, Potted (another way). Both dressed and undressed salmon may be potted. We first give a recipe for jjotting fresh salmon. Take a piece of salmon weighing about two l ounds. Skin prid clean it thoroughly ; do not wash it, but wipe it with a dry cloth. Cut it into slices, and rub these with salt, then let them drain until dyy. Season with a tablespoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and half a salt-spoonful of powdered mace. Lay the salmon in a jar, cover it with four ounces of butter, and bake in a slow oven. When it is done enough, pom- off the gravy which will bo found useful for flaA'ouring purposes press. the salmon into jars, and when cold cover it . -with butter which has been clarified and is just beginning to sot. If liked, a bay-leaf, a finely-minced onion, and one or two anchovies may be laid between the pieces of salmon in the jar. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful,. Is. or Is. 4d. per pound. Salmon, Potted (second dressing). Take the remains of cold salmon. Free it from skin and ? bone, aftd then pound it thoroughly in a moilar. lilst pounding keep adding clarified . butt-er a few drops at a time together -with salt, cayenne, powdered mace, and a little ancho\y. "When it is moist, smooth, and pleasantly flavoured, press it into small jars, and pour over it clarified butter to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Put it in a cool place for twelve hours, when it will be readv for use. SAL (812) SAL Salmon, Preserved. Amongst the many fish preserved by the heat process and put up in tins, salmon is undoubtedly the best. Hence its enormous and daily-increasing consumption in this country. A few years ago it was 2)ut up in considerable quantities by the Scotch firms at Aberdeen, as at certain seasons of the year it could be obtained at a very moderate cost. But the Scotch is now almost supplanted by American salmon, which is put up in California, Oregon, New Brunswick, Salvador, and in other districts where it can often be bought by the preservers at one penny per pound. This salmon in tins is retailed in ordinary shops from eightpence to a shilUng per pound, according to the popularity of the "brand" and the position of the firm whose label is attached. There are some brands, however, to be obtained at a much cheaper rate, and at the same time they are quite equal to those for which a higher price is asked. The best way of dealing with tinned salmon is to stand the tins, their tops having been previously cut off, in boiling water till the contents are warmed tkrough, for it must be remembered that the salmon is already thoroughly cooked ; or it may be made into " fish-cakes." Good preserved salmon will turn out whole, and so excellent is it that it takes a good judge to distinguish between it and the fresh-cooked fish. It is certainly a very valuable addition to our food supply. Salmon Pudding. Take half a pound of cold dressed salmon freed from skin and bone. Te;ir it into flakes, then pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste. Boil a quarter of a pound of grated crumbs in as much milk as these will absorb. Beat these ingredients till they form a smooth paste, and when cool mix this with the salmon, and add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, a grate or two of nutmeg, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Pound the pudding again until the seasoning is thoroughly incorpoi-ated, and add two or more weU-whisked eggs. Press the preparation into a thickly-buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven ; or, if preferred, roll it into the shape of a roly-poly pudding, di-edge it well with flour, and wrap it first in buttered paper and afterwards in a pudding cloth. Fasten the ends, and steam the pudding until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with thin custard sauce flavoui-ed with laurel-leaf. The pudding will be richer if cream is used instead of milk, and if additional eggs are allowed. Time to steam or bake the pudding, a little more than half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold salmon, 8d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Salmon, Raised Pie (to be served cold). Take two pounds of fresh salmon, and one and a half pounds of whiting forcemeat. Remove the skin and bone from the salmon, cut it into neat slices, and season each slice separately with salt and cayenne. Line the pie-mould with pastry (see Raised Pies), and fill with alternate layers of forcemeat and fish, and let forcemeat form the undermost and uppermost layer. Cover the pie with pastry, and finish in the usual way. Bake, and when done enough let it get cool, then pom- into it I through an incision in the top a liquid jelly ? made by boiling the bones and skin of the j salmon in water and flavouring it pleasantly with salt, cayenne, and essence of trufiles. Close the hole, and serve the pie on a neatlyfolded napkin. To make the forcemeat, press one pound of the flesh of whiting through a sieve. Pound the pulp till smooth with ten ounces of panada and ten ounces of butter. Add salt and cayenne, and moisten the preparation with the yolk of an egg and a little rich white sauce. Make it in a cool i lace. In order to ascertain when the pie is done enough, run a skewer quite to the bottom in the centre. If the meat feels tender, it is done. Salmon, RechanflFe of. Take the remains of cold boiled salmon; free it from skin and bone, and tear it into flakes with two forks. Bruise the bones, and simmer them gently for half an hour in as much water as will cover them. Strain the liquor, and thicken it with a little flour and butter. Boil it till smooth, season with pepper and salt, and add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, half a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and a pinch of jiowdered mace. Mix a pint of shelled shrimps with the flakes of salmon, stir the whole into the sauce, and let it heat gently, but it must not boil. Serve very hot. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Sufiicient for a moderate-sized dish. Salmon Roe, Pried. Boil the hard roe of a salmon. When done enough, draw it on a sieve, and let it remain iintil cold. Cut it into thin slices, dip these in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Garnish with parsley, and serve with tartar sauce. Salmon Roes, Caviare of. Wash the roes thoroughly in milk and water, and drain them till dry. Let them lie in salt for two days. A pound of spawn will require two ounces and a half of salt. Take them up, lay them on a board before the fire, and let them remain for some hours. Crush them with a roller, and with every pound of spawn put eight drops of spirit of nitre and as much pounded saltpetre as will cover a sixpence. Press the preparation into jars, cover the surface with writing-paper, and spread upon them a little cold lard. Tie bladder over the top, and keep in a warm place. Salmon Salad. Take the remains of broiled salmon, or broil some slices specially for the purpose. Divide these into neat pieces two inches square and half an inch thick. Season the pieces separately with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Make a Little clear aspic jelly, seasoned w th pepper, salt, vinegar, and chop2:)ed ravigote {see Ravigote). AVash some lettuces or any other suitable salad, and dry them jierfectly. DiNdde the hearts into halves, and with them make a border round a dish. Decorate this boi-der with picked prawns, hard-boiled eggs, beetroot, &c. Put a layer of salmon into the centre of the dish, and pour over it a little of the savoury aspic. When it is set, put another layer, and let this set again, and SAL ( 813 SAL repeat the layers, diminishing? the circles each time until at last they come to a point. Pour a little more jelly over all, place half a hardboiled egg on this, and fasten in it the heart of a cabbage-lettuce. Keep it in a cool place till wanted. Salmon Salad. This is an entremet which is recurred to on economical principles when there is any salmon left. Let the salmon cool, and cut it nicely into hearts or square lozenges. Decorate these hearts with fillets of anchovies, pickled cucumbers, fine capers, and chopped eggs, to which add a few hearts of lettuce. Then make the sauce as follows : If you have some jelly, make a kind of mayonnaise. Put three spoonfuls of oil, one spoonful of vinegar, with an equal quantity of jelly, seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped herbs. Beat all these over ice till they are a white coloui", and decorate your salad with this mayonnaise and a few lumps of jelly cut in different shapes. Make no decorations that are liable to tumble down. A plain good salad will be eaten in preference to any other. Grand decorations are merely intended to ornament the centre of the table : what is to be eaten must be plain and good. Above all things, avoid introducing artificial colours. Nature has supplied you with nasturtium, red and white beetroot, beans of two colours (white and green), chervil, tarragon, burnet, &c. ; besides, you have white or yellow omelettes. Never put any fish into a salad of fowl, for if the fowl tastes of fish, what will you have your salads maigres taste of ? In summer-time you have asparagus, ai'tichokebottoms, cauliflowers, &c. Ude. Salmon Salad with Jelly. Take a piece of cold boiled salmon, weighing about two pounds, trim away the bones and skin, and divide the flesh into squares. Place these squares in a dish, season, and baste with oil and vinegar. Have ready a plain border mould embedded in ice ; ornament the sides and bottom with gherkins, whites of egg, fillets of anchovy, and capers, always dipping the details in halfset aspic jelly. Fill the mould by degrees with cold jelly. Twenty minutes before serving, turn the mould out on to a cold dish, fill half the centre with chopped aspic jelly, and on it place the squares of salmon in layers, alternated with egg mayonnaise sauce. Serve with mayonnaise sauce in a sauce-boat. Salmon, Salted (Norwegian fashion). In the northern parts of the Continent salmon is salted just like beef and pork. Before cooking the salted fish, let it steep in cold water for forty-eight hours : the time may be shorter or longer, however, according to the size of the piece. Lay it in a stewpan, moisten with plenty of cold water, and bring it to the boiling point. Remove it back, keeping the fish covered ; let it stand for ten minutes, then drain the salmon, place it on some boiled but not chopped spinach, pour some melted butter over, and send the fish to taVde. The spinach and melted butter may be served separately. Salmon, Sauces suitable for. Shi-imps, anchovy, lobster, Dutch, and green parsley sauces may all be served with boiled salmon. Sliced cucumber is frequently served with it, and is generally liked as an accompaniment. Broiled salmon may have caper, maitre d'hotel, Indian, perigueux, aurora, ravigote, tartar, or Italian saiices. Oyster sauce, too, is sometimes served with sabnon. Fennel sauce is now almost obsolete. Salmon, Scalloped (Cold Meat Cookery). Lift the flesh from the remains of dressed salmon, remove the skin and bones, and tear the meat into flakes. Season these rather highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix with them one-fifth of their weight in finelygrated bread-crumbs, and moisten them lightly with any cold sauce there may be, or, failing this, with clarified butter. Butter some scallop-shells, cover the inside with finely-grated bread-crumbs, and shake off any that do not adhere. Put in the fish, cover it thickly with crumbs, lay two or three little pieces on the top, and bake the scallops in a brisk oven till the surface of the crumbs is brightly browned. Serve the fish in the shell, neatly arranged on a hot dish, and covered with a folded napkin. If preferred, lightly-mashed potato may be mixed with the fish instead of bread-crumbs. If scallop-shells are not at hand, deep oyster-shells, well cleaned, may be used instead, or even shallow dishes will answer the same purpose. Time to bake the scallops, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient, three or four scallops for a dish. Salmon, Scotch Mode of Dressing, The fishermen on the coast of Scotland boil their salmon in strong brine, and serve it with a little of the liquor in which it was boiled. This plan they adopt both when the fish is boiled whole and when it is divided into pieces convenient for serving. Salmon, Smoked (A breakfast relish). Cut a smoked salmon into thin slices. Wrap these in oiled paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a gentle fire. When they are heated on one side turn them upon the other. Let them get cold, pour a little lucca oil over them, and serve. Time to broil the slices, two minutes. Salmon Soup. No. l. If the fish is very fresh this soup may be partially made with the liquor in which it has been boiled, though a quart of veal stock made from bones and flavoured with vegetables will answer the purpose better. Take the remains of the salmon. Lift the flesh from the bones while it is still hot, and remove the skin. Supposing there is a pound and a half of salmon, pick out the best pieces, tear them into flakes, and then lay them aside. Put the rest in a mortar along with any remains of lobster there may be, especially the coral, a little cream, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and two hard-boiled egg-yolks. Pound these ingredients to a smooth paste. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan; mix with this as much flour as it will take, beat it quickly with a wooden spoon till it is smooth and slightly brown, and moisten with a portion of the stock. Stir in the salmon paste, and add as much stock as will make the SAL (814) SAL soup of the consistency of thick cream. Season the soup with pepper, salt, and cayenne ; thiow in the Hakes of salmon that were set aside, let them get thoroughly hot without boiling, and serve immediately. No. 2. Take a pound and a half of fresh salmon. Raise the flesh from the bone, divide it into neat fillets, and fry these in hot fat till they are done enough. Put a quart of fish or veai stock into a stewpan with the heart of a lettuce finely shred and half a pint of young green peas. Simmer all gently for an hour, then rub the soup through a fine hair sieve. Put it back into the stewpan, season with salt and pepper, put into it the fried fillets of salmon, and let them simmer until they arc heated through. Add another half pint of peas boiled separately, simmer all together for a few minutes, and serve. Time altogether, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pint when salmon is plentiful. Sufficient for five or six persons. Salmon, Soused. Put say three pounds of cold dressed salmon into a deep dish. Put a pint of cold vinegar into a saucepan with half a pint of water. Add an inch of whole ginger, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Bring the liquor to the boil; let it boil for ten minutes, pour it out, and let it get cold. Strain it over the salmon, and let it remain in a cool place for several hours. Serve with a little of the pickle in the dish with it. Time to boil the pickle, ten minutes. Probable cost when salmon is plentiful, about 3s. 8d. Sufiicient for eight or nine persons. Salmon, Soused (another way). Set Salmon, Dried or Kippered, To Dress. No. 4. Salmon, Spiced. Take a pound and a half of salmon. Put it in a saucepan with a pint of good vinegar and the third of a pint of water, and add an ounce of cinnamon, an ounce of whole black pejjper, and a little salt. Boil the salmon in this till it is done enough. Let it get cold ; then lay it closely in an earthen pan, pour the pickle and spic'es over it, and cover it closely to exclude the aiT. Keep it in a cool place till wanted. Salmon Trout. Salmon trout, though much resembling salmon in flavour and appearance, are really not of the same species. These fish seldom exceed two to three pounds in weight, and frequently reach only to threequarters of a pound. Salmon trout is justly esteemed a great delicacy, and may be dressed according to the methods recommended both for salmon and trout, though boiling is the least agreeable method of cooking it. Salmon Trout, Choosing of. As food the salmon trout is in cveiy respect inferior to the salmon : its flesh is sometimes white, sometimes red. When large, it is white, and is little valued ; but when small, it is generally red, but not always : it is never so red as salmon. By examining the inside of the throat through the gills the colour of the throat may be seen. If very red the flesh will prove red ; and this is the kmd that is most prized. Salmon Trout, Stuffed and Baked. Take a good-sized trout, weighing two to three pounds. Clean and scale it, handling it as little as possible, and fill it with fish forcemeat. Put it into a baking-dish, and pour a marinade, made with a spoonful or two of vinegar boiled with vegetables and spices to flavour it, underneath and roimd it ; lay a good slice of butter broken into little pieces here and there on the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequently with the marinade. When the fish is done enough keep it hot a few minutes. Strain the liquor in the dish, add some stock to it to make the quantity of sauce required, thicken this with flour and iDutter, season with a little anchovy, the squeeze of a lemon, and a pinch of cayenne. Skin the trout, strain the sauce over it, and serve. The forcemeat may be made as follows : Take two ounces of finelyshred suet and two ounces of grated breadcrumbs ; mix with these a tea-spoonful each of parsley, thyme, and majoram, and add a large pinch of salt, a pinch each of powdered mace, pepper, and lemon-rind. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolk of an egg, and it will be ready for use. Time to bake the trout, twentj' to thirty-five minutes, according to size. Sufficient for two or three persons. SALMON THOL'T Salmon Trout with Truffles. Take a salmon trout weighing about two pounds, and of firm flesh ; scale it, and draw it by the gills ; wash and wipe it inwaidly. Take four fresh peeled trufiies, chop them, and pound them in a mortar, adding to them the third of their bulk of softened bread-crumbs and the same quantity of butter. Season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and fill the inside of the trout with this preparation. Set the salmon trout on a buttered ,gratin-dish. Salt, baste with butter, and set it in a moderate oven to bake, basting often with butter. After twelve minutes, pour into the dish a small glassful of white wine and a few spoonfuls of melted glaze ; boil the liquid, and push the dish again into the oven. In a quarter of an hour the trout should be done enough ; place it then on another dish. Dilute the fish stock with a little white wine, let it boil, and thicken it with a piece of kneaded butter. Add two SAL ( 81.3 ) SAL raw truffles, continue boiling for two minutes longer ; draw it back, and finish with a piece of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, and some chopi ed parsley. Pour this sauce over the salmon trout, and send it to table. Salmon, Wholesomeness of. As is the case with other oily fish, salmon is less digestible than white fish generally for those of weak stomachs. Like other articles of food, too, which contain oil, it should never be eaten in a state of decomposition. It may prove liighly injurious; indeed, death has been the result of partaking of pickled salmon which had become somewhat decomposed. As food, salmon, when in high perfection, is one of the most nutritive and delicious of our fish ; but as it is very oily it is rather heating, and with some persons not very digestible ; with most constitutions it requires the addition of condiments, as cayenne pepper and vinegar. It is thought by some that the addition of shrimp, lobster, and other Vich sauces, with which it is usually eaten, increases its indigestibility ; but there does not appear to bo any distinct knowledge on this subject, so much depending upon peculiarity of constitution. It requires to be very well boiled, otherwise it is unv holesome ; and when in the best condition and season it has a fine curdy matter between the flakes, which is a proof of its perfectio-T, and the flavour- is then very much superior; but this is seldom seen except near to the places where it is caught, as it melts away in keeping. Webf ter and Parkes. Salmon with Caper Sauce. Take several slices of fresh salmon, and let them marinade five or six hours in oil, salt, pepper, parsley, chives, and shallots, chopped fine ; wrap the slices of fish in paper with aU the marinade, and broil them ; iake them out of the paper, and send to table with ciiper saucei Salmon with Matelot Sauce. iMake a marinade, in which stew the salmon. When it is done, pick off the scales carefully. Pour the marinade over the salmon to keep it hot. Then make a matelot sauce in the following manner: Put a good bit of butter and two spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and make a roux. When it begins to colour, throw four Or six onions into the roux, and let them melt ; keep stirring with a wooden spoon. Then moisten with a bottle of red wine ; add a few spoonfuls of the marinade in which you have stowed the salmon, some trimmings of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions well seasoned, and a small piece of glaze ; season the whole, and put a little sugar to correct the acidity of the wine ; skim the grease, and keep the sauce thick. In case it should not be thick enough to mask -svith, add a small bit of butter kneaded with flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, some essence of anchovies, the juice of a lemon, and some salt and pepper. Drain the fish, and cover it with the sauce, after having strained it through a tamis. Saloop, Decoction of. Saloop is highly valued for its stimulating and nutritious properties, and a decoction may be made from it, which will form a beverage to be drunk as a substitute for beer or wine at meal-times. Procure the saloop in powder. Boil sugar and water to a thin syrup, and flavour this slightly with lemon-rind. Add a spoonful of the powder rubbed to as mooth jjaste with a little cold water, stir this into the syrup, boil all together for a few minutes, let the liquor get cold, and serve. A little light wine may be added or not. Saloop is sometimes boiled with milk instead of water. Time to prepare, half an hour. Saloop, Milk {see :Milk Saloop). Saloop or Salop. The preparation known under this name consists chiefly of starch. It is obtained from the roots of the common male orchis {Orchis inascula). When boiled it constitutes an agreeable article of diet, and was commonly used in this country before the introduction of tea and cofi'ee. Sassafras chips were frequently introduced into the decoction for the purpose of giving it a flavour. The roots of the Orchis maculata also jdeld an inferior sort of salep. Although now almost entirely in disuse in this country, it is still employed in Turkey and the East. The salep imported from India is in white oval pieces, hard, clear, and pellucid, without smell, and tastinglike tragacanth. It is a light, bland, and nutritious article of diet. Salep is more nutritive than either arrowroot or sago, and consequently is better adapted for the convalescent than the sick. Saloop Soup (Invalid Cookery). The following German recipe is given in the "Handbook of Foreign Cookery" of Amelia von Kochheim: "Into a quart of good beef bouillon stir a table-spoonful of salep mixed in a little cold water ; set it on the fire, and let it boil till it begins to thicken. It may be made also with wine or -water instead of broth, in which case sugar, lemon, or sweetmeat may be stirred in. This soup is not only nourishing for weak persons, but is particularly recommended for children. A tea-spoonful of salej) mixed in a little water, and a cupful of boiling milk or broth poured over it, should be given to a child daily when first weaned: it will be found to strengthen it greatly." Saloop, To Prepare. Take a dessertspoonful of the powder of saloop, and add it to a pint of boiling water. Keep stirring tiU the preparation becomes of the consistence of jelly, then add white wine and Sugar to taste. Saloop, To Prepare (another way). The preparation of saloop has been described in the " Philosophical Transactions " of the Royal Society. A Mr. Moult, making a communication to that Royal Society, says: "I send you my method of curing the common orchis root of our own country so as perfectly to resemble what comes to us from Turkey. The best time to gather the roots is when the seed is forming, and the stalk going to fall; for then the new bulb, of which the salep is made, is arrived to its full size, and may be known from the old one, whose strength is then spent by the preceding- germination, by a white bud rising from the top of it, which is the germ of the plant of the succeeding year. This new root, being sepai-ated from the stalk. SAL ( 816 ) SAL is to be washed in water, and a fine thin skin that covei-s it to be taken off with a small brush: or, by dipping in hot water, it will come off with a coarse linen cloth. When a sufficient quantity of the roots is thus cleaned, they are to be spread on a tin jjlate, and set into an oven heated to the degree of a breadoven, where they are to remain six, eight, or ten minutes, in which time they will have lost their milky whiteness, and have acquired a transparency like that of horn, but without being diminished in size. "WTien they are arrived at this state, they may be removed to another room to dry and harden, which will be done in a few days ; or they may be finished in a very slow heat in a few hours. I have tried both ways with success. The orchis suited for the purpose grows spontaneously throughout the whole kingdom. It flourishes best in a dry sandy, barren soil. As the method of cultivating this root is so easy, I hope it will encourage the cultivation of so nutritive a vegetable. Its quahty of thickening water is to that of fine flour nearly as two and a half to one, with this diff'erence, that the jellj' of saioop powder is clear and transparent, whereas that of flour is turbid and white." Dr. Percival, in his " Medical and Experimental Essays," mentions that a mixture of mucilage of saioop with flour makes an excellent bread. Salpicons. Salpi(,'ons are elegant little trifles composed of a mixture of poultry, game, fish, forcemeat, sweetbreads, ham, tongue, or foie gras, together with mushrooms, trufiles, artichokes, &c. The various materials should be cooked separately, cut into dice, and heated in thick brown or white sauce, wliichever is most suitable for them. The remains of meat and vegetables are frequently served in this waj\ Salpi9ons may either be served in a dish, with the different ingredients di aded by small sippets into compartments, then covered over ?with bread-crumbs, and browned ; or they may be put into little patties, and served on a napkin neatly garnished with parsley. The latter is the more usual method. To prepare these patties, make some good puff paste ; stamp it into small rounds with a cutter, two inches in diameter, put these on ice for a few minutes, then brush them over with beaten egg to glaze them. Dip a smaller cutter into hot water, and stamp the rounds through onethird of the thickness of the pastry. Bake the patties in a quick oven. When they are done, lift off' the cover which was fonned by the smaller cutter, and smooth the pastry. Have ready whatever is to form the contents of the patties. Heat it in sauce, but on no account allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard ; fill the patties, put on the covers again, and serve. In large families, where a number of dishes are constantly prepared, the cost of salpi(,'ons consists principally in the trouble they take to prepare. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Salsify. Salsify, which is the root of a plant sometimes called the "Oyster Plant" and "Purple Goat's Beard," is excellent when cooked. It is not so generally known as it deserves to be. It is understood to possess stimulating properties. It may be cooked in various ways : it may be boiled and served with white maitre d'hotel, Dutch, onion, or Italian sauce ; or it may be fried in batter, or stewed or scalloped, or made into croquettes. AVhen fried, the salsifies are often served round boiled fish, and rather resemble fried smelts in taste. The only inconvenience attending the use of salsify is that it requires to be boiled for at least an hour to make it tender, and to remove a certain bitter flavour which ajipertains to it unboiled. The leaves of the plant ought to be fresh, and the roots firm and black. To prepare the roots for dressing, cut off the ends of each, and scrape off the outer rind till the flesh is reached, which somewhat resembles the parsnip in colour and appearance. Hub them with lemon-juice or vinegar, and tln-ow them into cold water until they are to be dressed. They will be better for lying in this for an hour or two, and will impart to the water a tinge of reddish brown. Exposure to the air in scraping or after boiling makes them turn black. The remains of salsify which has been boiled one day may be fried the next. Salsify roots, if left in the gi-ound, will in the spring send up stout green shoots, which will be found excellent boiled. They are to be eaten like asparagus. Salsify (a la Creme). Boil the roots till tender, or take the remnants of dressed salsify, and divide them into inch lengths. Dissolve a slice of butter in a saucepan, and work into this as much flour as it will take. When the paste is quite smooth, and before it is at aU coloured, moisten with milk or cream, season with salt and cayenne, and stir it over the fire till it coats the spoon. Put in the slices of salsify, let them get hot, and dish in a pjTamid form on a hot dish. Add a spoonful of lemon-juice to the sauce, pour it over the roots, and garnish with fned sippets. Time altogether, one hour and a half. Salsify, Boiled. The roots are boiled like carrots, or half boiled and grated fine, made into flat small patties, dipped in batter, and fried like oysters, which they strongly resemble ; hence the frequent name for salsify of vegetable oyster. The young flower-stalks, if cut in the spring of the second year, and dressed hke asparagus, are not unlike the latter, and make an excellent dish. Salsify, Boiled (another way). Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of the outside peel. Then cut them into pieces of an equal size, about four inches, and throw them into water with a little vinegar or lemonjuice, to prevent their getting black. "\Mien you have scraped a sufficient quantity, boil them in water enough for them to swim with case ; put a little salt, a small bit of butter, and the juice of a lemon. They will generally be done in three-quarters of an hour; yet it is better to ascertain the fact by taking a piece out of the water, and trying with a knife whether they are done enough, which is the case when the knife penetrates easily. Drain the salsifies, and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. They are generally served with veloute or French melted butter. SAL (817) SAL Salsify, Boiled (M. Soyers way). "I do not know," says M. Soyor, " why this vegetable, which is held in such high esteem on the Continent, should be so little esteemed with us. I will here supply their manner of cooking it, and perhaps you will give it a fair trial. Take twelve middling-sized ones, scrape them well till quite white, rub each with lemon, and put it in cold water. Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet cut in small dice, one onion, a bit of thyme, a bay-leaf, a table-spoonful of salt, and four cloves ; put on the fire, and stir for five minutes; add two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir well ; then add three pints of water. When just boiling, put in your salsify, and simmer till tender. They will take nearly one hour. Dish on toast ; sauce over with Dutch, maitre d'hotel, or onion sauce, or a very good demi-glaze, or Italian sauce. Should any remain, they may be made into fritters thus : Put them in a basin, add a little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, half a chopped shallot, and a spoonful of oil ; place in the salsify, and let it remain for some hours. When ready to serve, make a small quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry for five minutes in lard or fat ; dish up with fried parsley over." Salsify, Boiled, Plain. Scrape the roots lightly, either cut them into three-inch lengths, or leave them whole, and throw them into water with a httle lemon till wanted. Put them into boiling salt and water, and keep them boiling quickly till tender. Drain them, arrange on toast upon a hot dish, and pour over them good melted butter white sauce, Dutch sauce, maitre d'hotel sauce, onion sauce, or Italian sauce, however, may be used. Sometimes the salsify is boiled in sauce flavoured with vegetables, herbs, and spices instead of water. Time to boil, about one hour. Probable cost, variable. Sufiiciont, a dozen roots for a dish. Salsify Croquettes. Wash, scrape, and boil the salsify till perfectly tender. Kub it through a colander or mash it, and mix with the puree a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice : beat it till the ingredients are thoroughly mixed and constitute a stiff smooth paste. Place this on ice, and when it is quite cold, shape it into the form of corks. Dip these into clarified butter, or, if preferred, into beaten egg and grated bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are crisp and brown. Lift them up, drain, and serve. Salsify, Fried. Make a batter as follows : Take six spoonfuls of flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and beat the whole with beer enough to make it into batter, hut do not make it too liquid. Then beat the whites of two eggs, and when well beaten pour them into the batter, which you must keep stirring gently. Next put the vegetables, that are done beforehand and well drained in a cloth, into the batter ; take them out again one by one, and throw them into the dripping. Use a skewer to prevent their sticking together. When fried of a fine colour and crisp, send them up with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little pounded salt sprinkled over the vegetables. Udc. 55 Salsify, Fried, or Salsify Fritters. I Boil the salsify till tender, or, if preferred, ' take the remains of dressed salsify. Drain and I dry the roots by pressing them in a soft cloth. I Make a little frying batter, dip each root ' separately into this, throw them into hot fat, and fry them till they are lightly browned. Take them up, drain them on a sieve, and serve very hot, piled high on a dish, and garnished with fried parsley. No sauce will be needed for them when dressed in this way. Sometimes the salsify is dipped into eg and bread-crumbs instead of batter before frying. When batter is used it may be made as follows : Put three table-spoonfuls of flour into a bowl with a salt-spoonful of salt and an ounce of fresh butter. Add as much lukewami water as will melt the butter, and beat the whole to a smooth batter. Put it into a cold place, and ten minutes before it is wanted add the weUwhisked white of an egg. The salsify is occasionally soaked in vinegar, with a little pepper and salt, before it is fried, but this is not necessary. When it has been done, the roots should be thoroughly drained afterwards. Time, one hour to boil the salsify ; to be fried till crisp. Salsify in Salad or Aspic Take salsifies enough to fill a mould of the size of the dish, then boil them in the same way as the others; drain and cut them the length of the mould ; dress them like a chartreuse, dip them into a little aspic to stick them together all round the mould, and fill the middle with a salad of small bits of salsifies all the same size ; then season with salt, pepper, a little oil, vinegar, and aspic; put in also some parsley chopped very fine; toss the whole, and put it in the mould into ice. At dinner dip a rubber into hot water, rub the mould all round with it, and turn the salad out on the dish to serve up. If you can procure a few French beans very green, they will make the salad aj jiear better ; while haricot beans are likewise very useful. Salsify Salad. Boil the salsify till perfectly tender, drain it, and cut it into inch lengths. Put it on a dish, and pour over it any simple salad-dressing, or toss it up lightly with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and chopped ravigote. Garnish as fancy dictates. Time to boil the salsify, one hour. Salsify Sauce. Scrape and wash two roots of salsify, rub them with lemon, and throw them into cold water till wanted. Boil the roots till perfectly tender in lightly-salted water. Drain them, cut them into small pieces, stir them into half a pint of melted butter, simmer a few minutes, and serve. Time, one hour and a quarter. Salsify, Scalloped. Boil the salsify till tender, and wash it or rub it through a colander. Put it into a bowl, which is placed in a larger one haK filled with boiling water. This is to keep the salsify hot. Work into the pulp ;i little butter and milk, or cream, and season with salt and pepper. Add a pinch of celerjr salt, if it is at hand. Butter some scallop-shells, cover them with grated bread-crumbs, and fill them with the puree. Lay grated bread over the salsify, and place little pieces of butter here SAL (818) SAL and there upon each scallop. Put them in a hot oven, and let them remain until the surface is brightly browned. If scallop-shells are not at hand, small dishes may be used instead. Time, one hour and a quarter to bake the scallops. Salsify, Stewed. Scrape and wash the roots, and cut them into round slices. Boil them in as much water as will barely cover them, and when they are tender lift them out with a slice, and pour away all but a quarter of a pint of the liquor. Thicken this with flour and butter, stir half a cupful of cream into it, and season with pejjper and salt. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes. Put the salsify into a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Time, one hour. Salsifi.es with Veloute. Prepare as in the preceding recipe. Only take note that all sauces sent up with vegetables should be refined and thickened with fresh butter. Never forget to add salt and a little cayenne. Salt Butter, Choosing. When you choose salt butter, taste a piece of the outside next the tub: if that is good and free from rankncss, you may be certain the middle is ; but the centre is often excellent when the sides are half spoilt ; and those who sell it, knowing this, often give you to taste out of the middle. Dr. Kitchiner. Salt Butter made Fresh. Put a pound of salt butter in a wooden bowl kept very clean for the purpose, only with a quart of water, and work it well, either with your hand or a wooden spoon, for twenty minutes ; then pour away the water, and wash it well in seven or eight different waters. Add a very little fine salt, and make it into pats. Salt Butter, To Make. The common method of preserving butter is by salting it more or less. Salt is thoroughly worked into the butter, in the proportion of one or two ounces to the pound, according as the butter is required to be kept for a shorter or longer time. Dr. Anderson, in his "Recreations," recommends another method of curing butter, by which, he says, with ordinary care, it may be kept for years in this climate, or carried to the East Indies, if packed so as not to melt. " Mix two parts of the best salt, one of sugar, and one of saltpetre, and heat them into a fine powder : one ounce of this preparation is sufficient for a pound of butter. This should be thoroughly mixed with the butter as soon as it is separated from the whey, and it should then be put into a clean cask. It should be packed very well down, to exclude the air thoroughly ; the top should be covered with a sprinkling of salt, and melted butter poured over it to fill up every crevice before the cover is fixed down. Butter cured in this manner does not taste well till it has stood at least a fortnight after being salted ; but after that time it has a rich marrowy taste that no other butter ever acquires, and tastes so little salt that one would imagine it would not keep." Dr. Anderson had seen it perfectly sound when two years old in this cUmate. Salt, Common, Wholesomeness of. So far as the health and vigour of the body are concerned, this is an article of the first importance. All animals require salt. It facilitates the absorption of water into the system, and being a compound of chlorine and sodium, it seems to supply to the body a certain quantity of chlorine essential to the proper performance of some of the vital processes. It has a stimulant action upon the throat, gullet, and stomach, thereby promoting the secretion of saliva and of the gastric juice, and in this way facilitating digestion. To the digestive functions it is a natural and necessary stimulant, and the daily use of salt conduces much to the preservation of health and strength. Dr. Lankester, in his work " On Food," gives some curious information regarding the eifecta of this much-used condiment. "Let us," he observes, "inquire a little into the probable use of salt in our system. If we take a vessel and divide it into two parts by an animal membrane, such as exists in our own bodies, and then put salt and water on one side and spring water on the other side, so that they may both stand at the same level, in the course of time we shall find that the spring water -\vill go down and the salt water will rise and flow over. The pure water, in fact, passes through the membrana but the salt water will not. Now, this is precisely the relation of the blood to the membranes of the stomach. It is a solution of salt ; and if we place in our stomachs pure water, it will pass through the membranes of the stomach just in the same way that it passes through the membrane in the vessel. This, then, appears to be one of the important functions performed by salt. It facilitates the absorption of water into the systaci. This will also account for the thirst produced by taking excessive quantities of salt or salted food of any kind. ' 'Another action of salt to which physiologists have attached importance is, that it supplies to the system a certain quantity of chlorine, which is necessary to the perfection of some of the vital 23rocesses. Thus, dm-ing digestion, a fluid is thrown out of the stomach called gastric juice. This fluid contains free hydrochloric acid, and the chlorine of this compound could bo only furnished by the salt taken with the food. "Then salt appears to facilitate certain changes in the system which are beneficial to health, but which are difficult to explain exactly. The nature of these changes is indicated by su8h an experiment as the following : A number of oxen were taken by a great French chemist and experimentalist ; he fed one set of them with salt, and another set of the same weight without salt. For a short time there appeared no difference, but at the end of a month the cattle that had the salt were sleek and well-favoured, while the others had rough coats and looked less comfortable; and so it went on for two years, and at the end of that time there was no doubt that the healthier animals were those which had the salt. Theie seemed to be some improvement in the quality of the blood going on by the action of the salt. The practice of i 'icing pieces of rock-salt in meadows for horses, cows, and sheep to lick, is quite common in this country. It is also well SAL (819) SAI. known that marshes which have been ovcriiowed by salt water give an improved appearance to the stock which grazes in them. " If you take a very small quantity of hydrochloric acid and salt and put it into water, and then add to it a portion of the white ef an egg, and expose it to a temperature of 98'', the egg begins to dissolve ; but if you put it into water without the salt it does not dissolve. From this experiment you see there is this first action of salt in assisting digestion; you may see from this the propriety of adding small quantities of salt to our food. There are some persons who, from a morbid fancy, will not take it ; such persons are preserved from danger by the cook who puts it into puddings and cooked meats, and the baker who puts it into the bread. " Such, in fact, appears to be the importance of salt in the blood, that a special provision appears to exist for maintaining, within certain limits, of course, the quantity of salt at a given point. For we find that if we feed our animals either on food containing a large quantity or only a small quantity of salt, that the quantity of salt in the blood remains the same, any excess being thrown off from the system. Of course a long abstinence from salt in food will lead to a diminution in the blood, and ultimately to disease." The craving for salt appears to be universal, with one or two exceptions, noticed by Professor Johnston in the following extract from his "Chemistry of Common Life:" "The wild buffalo frequents the salt-licks of North-western America ; the wild animals in the central parts of Southern Africa are a sure prey to the hunter who conceals himself beside a salt spring ; and our domestic cattle run peacefully to the hand that offers them a taste of this delicious luxury. From time immemorial it has been known that vithout salt man would perish miserably ; and among horrible punishments entailing certain death, that ef feeding culprits on saltless food is said to have prevailed in barbarous times. ]\Iaggots and corruption are spoken of by ancient writers as the distressing symptoms which saltless food engenders ; but no ancient or unchemical modern could explain how such siifferings arose. Now we know why the animal craves salt, why it suffers discomfort, and why it ultimately falls into disease, if salt is for a time withheld. Upwards of half the saline matter of the blood (57 per cent.) consists of common salt, and as this is partly discharged every day through the skin and the kidneys, the necessity of continued supplies of it to the healthy body becomes suiiiciently obvious. The bile also contains soda as a special and indispensable constituent, and so do all the cartilages of the body. Stint the supply of salt, therefore, and neither will the bile be able properly to assist the digestion nor the cartilages to be bmlt up again as fast as they naturally waste. " And yet, what shows this craving for salt to arise out of a refined species of instinct, similar to that which may have fixed the national food of Ireland, is the fact that neither men nor animals are everywhere eager for or even fond of salt. Mimgo Park describes salt as 'the greatest of all luxuries in Central Africa.' But the Damaras, in South-western Africa, never take salt by any chance ; and even Europeans travelling in this coiuitry never feel the want of it. ' Half of this people,' says Galton, ' live solely on pig-nuts, the most worthless and indigestible of food, and requiring to be eaten in excessive quantities to afford nourishment enough to support life.' Theii- neighbours, the Namaquas, set no store by salt ; the Hottentots of Walfisch Bay ' hardly ever take the trouble to collect it;' and even the wild game in the Swakop do not frequent the salt rocks to lick them as they do in America. " In the colds of Siberia also, as in the heats of Africa, a similar disregard of salt sometimes prevails. ' Most of the Kussians at Borezov,' says one writer, ' eat their food without a particle of salt, though that condiment can be obtained at a trifling cost: a sufficient quantity of it being always kept at the Government magaziae and sold at a moderate price.' " The explanation of these cases, so inconsistent with our general experience, is found in the refined instinct of the body itself. When the food we usually eat conveys a sufficiency of salt into the body, it has no occasion for more. It therefore feels no craving for it, shows no liking to it, and takes no trouble to obtain it. And, doubtless, in the kind of food and drink consumed in the Damara country, and by the Russians of Berezov, either more salt than is usual is conveyed into the stomach, or their habits render less salt necessary to them or cause less to be daily removed from their bo flies." Salt Fish. Salt fish requires to be soaked before being dressed, tlie time being regulated by the hardness and dryness of the fish. The water should be changed two or three times during the process, and the fish should be brushed and washed when it is taken out. For very dry fish thirty-six hom's' soaking will be needed, the water being changed at least four times. In ordinary cases twenty-four hours' soaking will be sufficient. It should be remembered that the fish should be put in to soakjlesh downwards. Boiled parsnips and egg sauce are the usual accompaniments to salt fish, which is occasionally served also with hardboiled eggs, chopped small, strewn over it. For a change, the fish may be garnished with eggs cut into quarters and parsley. It should be dished on a neatly-folded napkin placed on a hot dish. Salt Fish (a la Maitre d'Hotel). Boil the fish in the usual way, free the flesh from skin and bone, and tear it into flakes. Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour smoothly with two or three ounces of good butter. Stir them in a clean saucepan till the butter is dissolved, then add a pinch of salt and the third of a pint of boiling water. Stir the whole over the fire for a few minutes, and add a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Let all boil up once. Put the flaked fish into a saucepan, pour the sauce over it, and stir it over a gentle fire till it is quite hot. Turn it upon a hot dish, put round it boiled parsnips or mashed potatoes, and serve. The remains of cold salt fish may be dressed in this way. Time, a few minutes to heat the fish in SAL ( 820 ) SAL tho sauce. Probable cost, 4d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for three or four persons. Salt !Fish, Boiled. Soak the fish for twenty-four hours, changing the water three or four times. Brush and wash it well, and if it is still hard soak it in lukewarm water. If very hard and salt, thirty-six hours' soaking will be required. Put it in a saucepan, cover with plenty of cold water, and heat it very gently. Remove the scum as it rises, and keep the water simmering only till the fish is done enough. It should never be allowed to boil fully. Serve on a hot napkin with egg sauce in a tureen. The egg sauce may be prepared as follows: Boil thi-ee eggs till hard, and cut them into pieces the size of a pea. Put these into a sauce2)an with a quarter of a pint of good melted butter already boiling, and stir them over the fire three minutes longer. Serve immediately. Salt fish is generally supplied by the fishmongers in a condition to require very little soaking. Time to simmer the fish, half an hour to one hour, according to its thickness the time to be calculated from the moment when it is almost boiling. Probable ?cost, 4d. to lOd. per pound. Salt Pish Dressed, E chauffe of. No. 1. Free the flesh from skin, and tear it into flakes. Beat the remains of boiled parsnips to pulp, moisten them with cream or milk, add butter and flour to thicken, and season ?with pepper and mixed mustard. Add the flaked fish, and stir the preparation over the fire till it is hot. It must not boil. No. 2. Tear the fish into flakes ; mix these with double the quantity of mashed potatoes, add a slice of fresh butter and two or more hardboiled eggs finely minced. Heat the preparation over a gentle fire, and serve with egg sauce. No. 3. Tear the fish into flakes, and mix it with a hard-boiled egg finely minced. Make a circular wall of mashed potatoes, put the fish into the centre, and heat the whole in a brisk oven. Serve with egg sauce. No. 4. Tear tho fish into flakes ; put it into a saucepan with as mvich cream thickened with flour and butter as will cover it. Let it heat gently, and sorve with egg sauce. No. 5. Tear the fish into flakes, and mix with it double its quantity in mashed potatoes. Moisten the preparation with cream, season with pepper and salt, and bind together with a beaten egg. Make it into small balls. Dip these in beaten egg, roU them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat. When they are brightly browned, drain them, and serve on a neatlyfolded napkin. Salt fish thus prepared may be pressed into a buttered basin, and browned in the oven : after which it should be turned carefully upon a hot dish, and garnished with minced egg and minced beetroot. No. 6. Tear the fish into flakes, and take half the quantity of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Fill a baking-dish with alternate layers of fish and bread-crumbs, season each one with pepper and dry mustard, and upon the uppermost layer (which should consist of crumbs) stick here and there little pieces of fresh butter. Pour into the dish as much cream or new milk as will moisten tho preparation. Bake in a well-heated oven, and serve. Time to bake, half an hour for a moderate-sized dish. Salt Fish Pie. Soak and boil the fish, and divide the flesh (freed from skin and bone) into neat squares. Take double its quantity in partially-boiled potatoes thinly sliced, together with as many partially-boiled and sliced onions as may be agreeable. Butter a pie-dish thickly, fill it with layers of sliced potato, fish, hardboiled eggs and onions ; season each layer with pepper and dry mustard, and place little pieces of fresh butter here and there in the pie. Pour over all a little egg sauce, cover with good pastry, and bake in a well-heated oven. AVTien the pastry is sufiiciently baked the i ie ?will be done enough. If liked, mashed potatoes may be used to cover the pie instead of pastry, and the onions can be omitted altogether. A very good potato pastry may be made with salt fish (see Potato Pastry). Salt in Bread. In bread-making, salt is always used, not only on accovmt of its flavour, to desti-oy the insipid raw taste of the flour, but because it is thought to make the dough rise better. Salt is used either by mixing it at first with the flour, or by dissolving it in the water. A sack of flour made into bread will require, on an average, five pounds of salt. Salt Leg of Mutton. In hot weather, when there is a danger that mutton will not keep, it may be salted to preserve it. In some parts of Scotland this joint is regularly salted, dried, and smoked, and afterwards boiled. To salt the mutton, pound an ounce of bay-salt with half an ounce of saltpetre. Pub this mixture equally and thoroughly into every part of the joint, and let it lie all night. Drain and wipe it, then salt it well with common or baysalt. Let it lie for ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Hang it to dry, or boil it fi'om the pickle. Salt, Spiced. i Iix thoroughly half an ounce of grated nutmeg, half an ounce of powdered cloves, a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, and an eighth of an ounce of cayenne. Pound the ingredients, and pass them through a fine sieve. Mix with them a quarter of an ounce of powdered thyme, a quarter of an ounce of powdered bay-leaf, a quarter of an ounce of mixed mai'joram and rosemaiy, and lastly half a pound of dried and powdered salt. Put the preparation in a bottle, stopper it closely, and store in a dry place till wanted. Salt, To Prepare for Table. Purchase salt in lumps, and store it in a di-y place. If it is not perfectly dry, put it before the fire to' make it so before using it, and then let it cool before putting it into the salt-cellar, or it will harden into a lump. When wanted for use, rub one lump upon another, and in this way powder the salt, which will be quite fine. Pile the salt in the saltcellar, and smooth the top by pressing it with a knife or table-spoon. Salt, Varieties of. There are different kinds of salt, and different modes of preparing it. For example: 1. Bay-salt, which consists of two kinds, the one prepared by evaporation SAL ( 821 ) SAL from sea-water, the other from salt-springs and lakes. The former method is practised in Hampshire, France, Spain, and Portugal; the latter in the island of Cape Verd and many parts of America. 2. Marine or Newcastle salt, which is extracted from sea-water when boiled. 3. Brine or fountain salt, prepared in a similar manner from brine taken from rivers, lakes, &c. 4. White salt one kind prepared from sea- water, after having been subjected to the sun's heat and exposed to the air; another kind, extracted from sand or stones, impregnated with saline particles. 5. Ketined rock salt, boiled from a solution. 6. Salt-uponsalt, procured from an amalgamation of bay and other salts, and much used by the Dutch in preserving herrings. Salt-water Fish, Wholesomeness of. Salt-water fish are the best of any, as their fiesh is more solid, more agreeable and healthy, less exposed to putrescency, and less viscid. They possess these excellent qualities when fresh ; when salted, they have all the properties of salt flesh, and consequently its disadvantages. Those fish which have scales are in general the most easily digested and the best : and of all these the fresh herring appears j to deserve the preference. The herring, the whiting, the sole, the cod-fish, the dory, the turbot, and the floimder, are perhaps the most digestible and best of fish. Salmon, mackerel, lobster, and most kinds of shell-fish, are very difficult of digestion and unwholesome. Dr. Graham. Salting Meat. Full instructions for salting the various joints are given under the diii'erent headings, nevertheless it may be useful to present in a concise form general instructions for the process. The meat should always be brought in as soon as the animal is killed, the kernels, sinews, and pipes should be at once removed, and the blood and moisture wiped away. Then, if liked, it may be allowed to hang for a few days in cool weather to become tender ; in hot weather it should be immediately salted. Exceedingly hot and exceedingly cold weather are equally unfavourable for salting meat. A handful of common salt should first be sprinkled over the nieat, then it should be allowed to lie on a dish in a cool place for twenty-four hours, and afterwards the brine should be drained from it, the moisture wiped off, and the salting process continued. The great art of salting meat consists in rubbing the salt thoroughly and equally into every part, between the muscles and under the flaps, and into the places from which the kernels were taken; the holes in which the butcher's skewers Avere pushed ought also to be filled with salt. The meat ought to be turned every day, and rubbed in the brine which flows from it. It ought to be examined too, and if any mouldiness gathers on any portion of it, that part should be cut off, aiid the place rubbed with salt. The quantity of salt used must be regulated by the weight of the joint, which should be rubbed l lentifully in every part with the salt-mixture, and afterwards well covered with it. The salt should be heated and pounded before being used. Bay-salt, though more expensive, gives a better flavour to meat than common salt, saltpetre reddens it, but makes it hard and dry. As little should be used as possible. A little sugar makes the meat mellow. An ounce of saltpetre will be sufficient for four pounds of sugar and salt, and one pound of sugar may be put with four pounds of salt. Sometimes a minced onion and a spoonful of pounded herbs are mixed with the salt they help to make the meat savoury. Meat which is salted dry will lose in. weight, M'hereas if it is pickled, that is, if it is immersed completely in liquid brine, it will gain slightly in weight, and keep longer. Pickle which is once made can be used again and again if boiled up occasionally, and if fresh salt is put in to make up for loss. The meat should be kept under the pickle, and if necessary a board should be laid upon it to ensure this. The tub, too, in which the meat is cured should be kept covered with a lid or with a blanket folded into two or three thicknesses. Pickle made in the following proportions will be found excellent and very strong. Three pounds of bay-salt, two ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of sugar, and two gallons of water. Boil haK an hour, skim, and cool. Wlien the pickle is boiled up with additional salt, it should be carefully skimmed each time, as the portion which would make it spoil will rise in scum, and can be removed. A piece of meat can be kept two or three weeks in this pickle in cool weather. When it has been kept in so long, it should be soaked in water for an hour or two before being dressed or it will be too salt. Pork needs to remain in pickle longer in proportion to its weight than beef. Salting Meat (additional particulars). The preservation of meat by the process of salting is that which is universally practised in the domestic economy of the British Isles. Long as this method has been known, the mode of its operation has never been clearly explained. Meat preserved by salt, as might be expected,, becomes hard and ill- tasted if very long keptBut if it be withdrawn from the salt in a reasonable time, and the water entirely removed by drying the meat in the air, it will keep with much less injury ; and if it be dried in the smoke of burning peat, turf, or wood, the vegetable tar and pyroligneous acid generated by the combustion will not only communicate an agreeable taste, but will considerably assist in its preservation. This mode of preserving is adopted in the case of hung beef, bacon, hams, tongues, and various kinds of fish. Smoked provisions are, however, apt to disagree with some persons, and there are instances known of empyreuma even proving poisonous. The antiseptic power of salt must appear to be a most fortunate property of that substance, when we consider how great a relish mankind have had for it in all ages. " Can that," says. Job, " which is unsavoury be eaten without salt ? or is there any taste in the white of an egg ? " Much better for us would it be to be deprived of all that remains of the tribe of condiments than this one. It should, howevei-, be observed that, according to the experiments of Sir John Pringle, salt, like sugar, is only an antiseptic in large quantities ; he found that a SAL ( 822 ) SAL small quantity, so far from preventing, promoted putrefaction. From this fact, the sagacious physician concluded that, as we use salt at table in small quantities only, its use is to help digestion by its septic power, the meat being thus softened and dissolved. It is not a matter of indifference what kind of salt is employed for curing meat and fish. Bay-salt is preferred. This is in large crystals it is obtained by spontaneous evaporation of salt water. The superiority of Dutch cured herrings has been ascribed to the use of baysalt. Meat-salters prefer this coarse-grained and evidently impure quality ; and perhaps this very impui'ity adds to its antiseptic power. Different kinds of salt seem also to differ in their degree of saltness, as one sugar is sweeter than another. The crystals of salt which may bo picked from a bottle of real Gorgona anchovies is most intensely saline, and the peculiar flavour of this favourite fish seems to be greatly aided by the piquancy of the salt. The finegrained salt of Cheshire, commonly used in London, penetrates much sooner ; and meat salted in London has more taste of the salt in four days than it acquii-es in Dublin in a week, on account of the coarse grain of the salt manufactured in the latter place. The best mode of salting meat for longkeeping is perhaps the following: For this purpose the meat ought to be of the best possible quality, for as the natural oifect of the process is to deteriorate the meat, unless it was originally excellent, a sufficiently good quality to render it agreeable will not remain. The main object to be kept in view ought to be to extract as much of the animal moisture as possible with the least possible quantity of salt, and therefore with the least injury to the softness of the fibre. To effect this object with beef, select the meat perfectly free from taint ; let all the kernels be cut out ; sprinMe it all over with fine salt ; lay it on an inclined plane for about six hours, so that its juices, which the salt will separate and. dissolve in, may as much as possible drain off. Let it be be then wiped, well rubbed with bay-salt, and l laced between two strong boards, with a very heavy weight on the upper one. The combined action of the salt and pressure will cause the extrusion of more juices. In twenty-four hours, let the meat be -wdped and rubbed again, and laid imder the pressing boards. The same wiping, salting, and pressing are to be repeated in twenty-four hours more. In this way, the weight being added to every day, the meat may bo kept till it is salt enough for the purpose. The time will be shorter or longer, according to the fancy of the consumer ; but if the meat is to be kept for store, it must not bo loft exposed to the air between the boards more than a few days. After being removed from the pressing boards, the pieces must be packed closely in a perfectly tight cask, with salt between and around. Instead of using salt alone, it may be mixed with one-eighth of its weight of saltpetre, to redden the meat. If there be any advantage in sugar for preventing hardness, the quantity ought to be larger than what is usually employed ; for, as already observed a small quantity promotes putrefaction : [ the sugar ought not to be under one-third of ' the weight of the salt. M. Ude, in his directions for making hams, employs equal weights of sugar and salt ; and others use twice as much sugar as salt. In the Journal des Connaissances Usuelles, the following mode of making mutton hams is given, and it might, perhaps, be followed with great advantage as a general process for preserving meat : The mutton must be fat. Two oimces of sugar must be mixed with one ounce of common salt and half a spoonful of salti:)etre. The meat is to be rubbed with this, and then placed in a tureen. It must be beaten and turned twice a day during thi-ee consecutive days, and the scum which comes from the meat having been taken off, it is to be wiped, and again rubbed with the mixture of sugar, salt, and saltpetre, in the same proportions as before. The next day it should be again beaten, and the two operations ought to be repeated alternately during ten days, care being taken to turn the meat each time. It must be exposed to smoke for ten days. Hams thus prepared are generally eaten cold. There can be little doubt that this mode of preserving, if applied generally, would be found an excellent one ; and it will be readily admitted that any process which preserves meat with so small a quantity of salt is valuable. It is a common opinion that salting greatly impairs the nutritivencss of meat; and in proof the fact is adduced that all the juices of the flesh run out and form brine. I believe that the nutritive qualities are scarcely impau-ed by a few days' salting, notwithstanding the great quantity of gravy-like juice which pours out. But there can be little doubt that the action of long-continued salt is to corrugate and harden the fibre, to render it somewhat less easily digestible, and probably to lessen its nutritiveness. AH meats are not rendered equally salt or hard by exposure to the action of salt during the same time. Pork becomes much less salt than beef. For a comparison, I caused a lap of pork and a lap of beef to be salted as nearly as possible in the same manner. They were kept for three months, at the end of which time the pork was just as it ought to be, but the beef was, to my taste, uneatable: it had taken up so much of the salt. It is on this account that pork is preferred for long voyages : it takes up less salt than other meats, and with that smaller portion it keeps as well. I believe there is another reason. Pigs that are pxirchased for sea-store are never fed \\'ith the same care, abundance, and cleanliness as those intended for home consumption: bad feeding, filth, and ill-usage are highly detrimental to pigs, their flesh proves soft, rank, and less agreeable. But such pork is liable to a much greater objection it is less wholesome ; it is apt for a few hours to more or less derange the digestive organs, and to produce considerable disturbance in weakly constitutions. Such unwholesome pork is greatly improved by beingkept a month in salt; and that it maj- be totally cured of all noxious quality, the time should be extended to three months. Bad pork will often make tolerable bacon, but so far SAL ( 823 ) SAN only as salubrity is concerned. After six months, ordinary pork, if stiU kept in salt, generally begins to be too salt and to acquire a new flavour not very agreeable, in which that of a bloated herring is sometimes distinguishable. It is a curious fact, and one which it is useful to be acquainted with, that the saltness of meat which has been preserved in brine increases even after the meat has been removed from the brine. Thus if, in winter, a large piece of fresh beef be cut into equal parts of an equal quality, and both are immersed during the same length of time in the same brine, containing more salt than the water can hold dissolved suppose for fourteen days one of them, when dressed, will prove sufficiently salt to i lease many palates. Let the other, taken out of the brine at the same time, be set aside for six weeks, and it will be found on being duly boiled that it has grown by far more salt than the fomier, although, apparently, they were both exposed to the action of the salt dm-ing the same length of time. It should always be borne in mind that the true art of preserving meat by salting is to do so with the smallest quantity of salt that can be made to serve the purpose. Donovan. Salzgurden. This is a German pickle made of sour cucumbers. The cucumbers should be chosen half grown, smooth, and seedless. Let them lie in water for twelve hours, then wipe them dry. Get an unglazed earthenware crock, or a perfectly clean small barrel, and lay at the bottom of it a layer of vineleaves, some cherry-leaves, and two or throe walnut-leaves. On the top of these place cucumbers, packing them close, with a leaf or two between them ; cover the layer with wild cherry-leaves. Lay do%vn another layer of cucumber, with here and there a sprig of green diU, and half a walnut-leaf. On these place another layer of vine and cherry-leaves, and proceed in this way till the crock or barrel is full. Prepare a weak brine : say, in the proportion of a handful of salt to a gallon of water. Pour this over the cucumbers till all are quite covered. Put on a cover, with a weight on the top, and set the vessel in a wanii place for a few iaj'S. When bubbles begin to aj pear on the brine, remove it to a cool and shady situation. In three or four weeks the salzgui-den will be ready for eating. Some makers of salzgurden add to the brine a cupful of vinegar, or a few spoonfuls of tartaric acid, and sprinkle a few cloves or allspice here and there, with a bayleaf and some sliced horseradish. Saraphire. The samphire {Crithmum maritimum) has a poetical interest, and is one of the plants of Shakespeare. The " dangerous trade" of the samphire -gatherer arises from its growing on the sides of steep cliffs ; and one of the most ornamental features of the white cliffs of Albion is the dark gTcen patches which this plant produces where it grows. It is gathered for the sake of the pleasant oil which is diffused throughout the plant, and M'hich renders it an agreeable addition to our food, especially when it is used in the fonn of jnckle. Samphire is generally gathered where it grows, wild, but is sometimes very successfully cultivated in beds of sand, rich earth, and rubbish, occasionally sprinkled with a little salt. Samphire is about as wholesome as picklos ponorally. Samphire, Pickled. True samphire is now a rare plant. That which ordinarily passes for it is a glasswort common enough in salt marshes and on low muddy shores not often covered by the tide. This glasswort is not aromatic, but is full of soda ; and its English name is derived from its having at one time been employed in the manufacture of glass. In country places it is sometimes boiled and eaten as a vegetable, from faith in its healing virtues. To pickle samphire, divide it into sprigs, rinse these well, and let them drain in the sun until the leaves begin to droop. Put them into jars, and pour over them hot vinegar slightly salted. Spice must not be introduced, or it will overpower the natural aromatic flavour of the samphire. Glasswort may be pickled in the same way, but for it the vinegar should be strongly flavoured with spice. Samphire, Pickled (another way). The samphire grows on the rocks all round the coast of Britain. For pickling it must bo gathered when green. Soak it for two days in a brine of salt and water. Then put it in a stone jar with some peppercorns and a little allspice. Cover with vinegar, and put the jar in an oven, where it must be well attended to. It must boil only until it is green and crisp ; if it is allowed to become soft it is spoiled, len quite cold, cork and bladder the jar, and put it by for use. Sandboy's Irish Stew. From a fine neck of mutton cut off the best chops, trim as much of the fat as is necessary, and put them away; soak the remaining part of the neck in cold water, and wash clean ; put the whole into a saucepan with just enough water to cover it, and let it simmer gently for three or four hours ; strain it into a basin, and when cold skim off the fat. Take a pint of this stock, put it into a saucepan with five or six onions, lay the chops which you had put by over them, put in a dozen and a half of peeled SAN (824) SAN potatoes, and pepper and salt to taste, and let the whole simmer gently for two hours ; if more potatoes are required, not to be done so much, put them in half an hour before serving. It is an improvement to put in a little mushroom ketchup or two dozen oysters. Sand Cake. Take haK a pound of butter and stir it to a cream, then add the yolks of twelve eggs and half a lemon-peel grated. Add to this preparation by degrees a quarter of a j)0und of tine flour, a quarter of a pound of potato-flour, and half a pound of sifted sugar. When these ingredients are thoroughly incorporated add the whites of the eggs whipped to a snow. Stir well, and bake in a moderate oven. The sand cake will be made considerably richer by adding half a wine-glassful of rum or brandy and the whole of the grated lemon-peel. Sand Cake (another way). Take half a pound of fine flour, a quarter of a pound of potato-flour, half a pound of warmed butter, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, six eggs, and the rind and juice of a lemon. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven. When the cake is three-parts done, di-aw it gently to the mouth of the oven, and strew the following quickly over it : Two or three ounces of almonds cut small and mixed with one tea-spoonful of powdered cimiamon and two ounces of powdered sugar. Place the cake back in the oven to finish baking, taking care that the almonds on the top do not become too brown. Sand Cake with Marmalade (a German recipe). Take one pound of butter, half a pound of almonds blanched and pounded, the grated peel of a lemon, three-quarters of a pound of flour, four- table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and seven eggs. Work these ingredients into a paste, roll out, and divide into three round cakes. Between each cake place a layer of any sort of marmalade at hand, and bake slowly ; when half baked, pour an icing over the whole, and finish baking. Sandwiches. Sandwiches, when properly prepared, constitute a convenient, elegant, and palatable dish for suppers or luncheons, but they have fallen into bad repute on account of the careless manner in which they are often made. They are composed of different articles introduced between two thin slices of buttered bread. Amongst those cormnonly used may bo mentioned dressed chicken, game, beef, veal and ham, tongue, or mutton, potted meats, fish pastes of various kinds, hard-boiled eggs, German and other sausages, forcemeats, pounded cheese, stewed fruits, jellies, &c. Sometimes sliced pickles are sprinkled over the meat, and a suitable seasoning should always be added. Whatever the materials used, it is necessary, in order to make sandwiches properly, that two or three rules be observed : 1st, whatever meat, &c., is used, let it be well dressed, freed from skin, gristle, and all unpalatable portions, and it should be cut up into mouthfuh. The last is a most important point, and one not often attended to. 2nd, pare the crust from a stale loaf of bread, cut it into neat slicca an eighth of an inch in thickness, and butter these evenly and thinly with fresh butter. A loaf baked in a tin for the purpose, and called a sandwich loaf, may be ordered from the baker when it is known two days beforehand that the sandwiches will be wanted. 3rd, Season the cut-up meat with mustard, salt, pepper, or whatever is required, and lay it between two slices of buttered bread, press it with the hand to make the ingredients adhere, and cut the sandwiches into squares with a sharp knife. To dish them, fold a napkin neatly, and lay it on a dish ; put the sandwiches in circles upon it, one lapping half over the other, and garnish with parsley. If not wanted immediately, lay a napkin wrung out of cold water upon the sandwiches to keep them moist. Sandwiches ought, however, to be served when freshly made. Recipes for the following sandwiches will be found under their respective headings : Aberdeex Irish Adelaide Italian American Jam Cheese Lemon Chicken and Ha.m Liebig's Ego Pastry FisH Potato Ham Sweet Hunter's Toast In former days the term sandwich was applied e.\.clusively to bread mth thin slices of ham, tongue, or beef, but of late a great variety of materials have been used. A celebrated Glasgow confectioner has the credit of making no fewer than a hundi'ed different kinds of sandwiches. Sandwiches in Large Quantities. "In making a large quantity," says i\l. Soyer, " a stale quartern loaf should be taken and trimmed free from all crust, and cut into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly buttered, and then thin slices of meat, nicely trimmed, may be laid on, and covered with another slice of bread, and then cut into eight parts. Should they be cut some time before they are wanted, they ought to be put one over the other, as they thus keep moist ; a little mustard and salt may be added to the meat if preferred. Some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the meat." Sandwiches, Superior (for suppers and luncheons). Cut the flesh of dressed fowl, game, or shell-fish, into neat pieces. Lay these upon thin slices of toast, and cover them with suitable sauce made very thick so as to adhere. Mayonnaise sauce may be used for poultry and fish, and salmis sauce is suitable for game. Garnish the surface of the sandwiches with white of egg chopped small, finelyshred tarragon leaves, and minced pickle or trufl3e. Dish the sandwiches in a circle, pile small salad or lettuces finely shred in the centre, and place a border of clear aspic jelly cut into dice round the dish. Or mince cold game finely, and stir the mince into a little stiff salmis sauce. Minced mushroom, truffle, or tongue may be added if liked. Set the preparation upon ice, and when it is stiff put a layer SAN ( 825 ) SAN between two slices of buttered broad. Serve in the usual way. Sangaree. This is a sort of punch frequently drunk in the West Indies. It is composed of half madeira and half water, acidulated with lime-juice and sweetened with sugar. Sangaree (American). Put a quarter of a pint of madeira or port into a large tumbler. Add two or three lumps of sugar and as much hot or cold water as will fill the glass. Grate nutmeg over the preparation, and serve. Sangaree, Danish. The following is a Danish method of making sangaree. Take three bottles of red wine, and mix with them a pint and a half of water ; add a whole nutmeg grated, and cinnamon and sugar to taste. Set the preparation on the fire, and let it boil up ; then take it off, and let it stand with the cover on till cold. Strain and bottle. Sangaree, Strong. The following recipe for "The Admiral's Strong Sangaree" is given by Mr. James Robinson. Put into a stone jar a pint and a half of cherry brandy, a quarter of a pint of lime-juice, three pints of madeii-a wine, three quarts of French brandy, three-quarters of a pound of preserved guavas sliced, two ounces each of candied citron and lemon sliced, two ounces of preserved ginger sliced, half an ounce each of cinnamon and cloves beaten fine, one ounce each of nutmeg and Jamaica pepper, two ounces of pistachio nuts blanched and beaten, half an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and beaten, threequarters of an ounce each of gum arabic and gum dragon dissolved. Beat the almonds and nuts to a paste with a spoonful of orangeflower water. Make a pleasant mixture of the madeira, lime-juice, and loaf sugar; pour it to the rest, cork and seal the jar, and set it in hot water to infuse the greater part of a day. In twelve hours shake it well, and keep it in a warm temperature six weeks, after which it may be stored. In twelve or fifteen months strain it oflt, filter it several times until it is beautifully bright, then put it in small bottles, which cork well and seal, and in six months more it will be excellent. Sangaree (West Indian). Crush four ounces of loaf sugar to powder, and your upon it a large wine-glassful of lime-jnice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, theV add a bottle of madeira,, half a pint of pure Freneh brandy, and two pints of cold spring \ 'ater. Grate the fourth part of a small nutmeg over the Kingaree, put a large lump of ice into it, and serve. Sponge cake or savoy biscuit is generally served with sangaree. Sanitary Soup. In his well-known " Essay on Food " Count Rumford describes a soup which may be made in time of scarcity at little cost for the sustenance of the poor thus : " After an experience," he says, " of more than five years in feeding the poor at Munich, during which time every experiment was made that could be devised, not only with regard to the choice of the articles used as food, but also in respect to their different combinations and proportions, and to the various ways in wliich they could be prepared or cooked, it was found that the cheai est, most savomy, and most nourishing food that could be provided was a soup, composed of pearl-barley, peas, potatoes, cuttings of fine wheat bread, vinegar, salt, and water in certain proportions. The method of preparing this soup is as follows:- The water and the pearl-barley are first put together into the boiler, and made to boil ; the peas are then added, and the boiling is continued over a gentle fire about two hours ; the potatoes are tlien added (having been previously peeled with a knife, or having been boiled, in order to their being more easily deprived of their skins), and the boiling is continued for about one hour more, during which time the contents of the boiler are frequently stirred about with a large wooden spoon or ladle, in order to destroy the texture of the potatoes and to reduce the soup into one uniform mass. When this is done the vinegar and salt are added, and, last of all, at the moment of serving, the cuttings of bread. The soup should never be suffered to boil, or even to stand long before it is served up, after the cuttings of bread are put to it. It wUl indeed be best never to put the cuttings of bread into the boiler at all, but to put them into the tubs in which the soup is carried from the kitchen into the dining-hall, pouring the soup lot from the boiler upon them, and stirring the whole well together with the iron ladles used for measuring out the soup for the poor in the hall. It is of more importance than can be imagined that this bread which is mixed with the soup should not be boiled. It is likewise of use that it should be cut as fine or thin as possible ; and if it be dry and hard it will be so much the better. The bread we use at Munich is what is called semel-bread, being small loaves, weighing from two to three ounces ; and as we receive the bread in donations from the bakers, it is commonly dry and hard, being that which, not being sold in time, remains on hand, and become stale and unsaleable ; and we have found by experience that this hard and stale bread answers our purpose much better than any other, for it renders mastication necessary, and mastication seems very powerfully to assist in promoting digestion, likewise prolongs the duration of the enjoyment of eating a matter of great importance indeed, and which has not hitherto been sufiiciently attended to." Sante, Potage de (Careme's recipe). Put into a stock-pot two roast fowls (to colour it slightly) , a large knuckle of veal (removing the bony end), and some bones of roast beef, if you have any ; add the necessary beef stock (twenty ladlefuls),so that the consomme when reduced may contain about fifteen ladlefuls; remove the scum, after which add the roots and some grains of pepper ; boil it slowly five hours, skim off the fat, and take up the meats ; then mix in the consomme the white of an egg beaten up with a httle cold beef stock to clarify it ; after twenty minutes boiling, strain it through a napkin, and again set it to boil, mixing with it the following roots and vegetables : the red part of a large carrot, cut with a root-cutter in columns three-quarters of an inch wide, and each column being divided into slices one-eighth SAP ( 826 ) SAB of an incli in thickness; a large turnip prepared in the same manner ; as also two heads of celery and two leeks sliced these roots should be blanched add two small lettuces, a little soiTcl and chervil. After an hour's boiling throw in a little sugar and three table-spoonfuls of asparagus points blanched of a fine green, and throw the soup into a tureen containing small crusts of a French roll rasped, cut round three-quarters of an inch wide, without the least appearance of crumb, and dried in a hot closet. Sapucaia Nut. This nut is very plentiful in the forests of Brazil, where it grows on a lofty tree. The fruit of the tree is wire-shaped and as large as a child's head, and opens with a lid which falls off. In each fruit are a number of seeds or nuts, as in the case of the allied Brazil nut. The flavour is superior to that of the Brazil nut, although, hitherto, the sapucaia nut is much less common in our shojis ; its form is oval, somewhat pointed at both ends, the ends being sUghtly bent in opposite directions. "Monkeys," saj's one writer, "are very fond of the sapucaia. nut, and are sometimes caught in consequence of thrusting the hand into a capsule, and not being able to withdraw it when filled with a nut, whilst they obstinately keep hold of the expected prize." Saratoga Pudding. Put a pinch of salt into two table-spoonfuls of flour, add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and work the whole into a smooth paste by beating it briskly with three fresh eggs. Add gradually a quart of hot milk, pour the batter into a buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sardine Butter. This preparation is very good spread on toast or made into sandwiches. Take twelve sardines and wash them quickly in cold water. Scrape off the skin, remove the bones, and pound the flesh in a marljle mortar with a piece of fresh butter, and add butter gradually till the quantity mixed in equals half a pound. Add salt and cayenne pepper to taste, and work the preparation into a smooth paste. If sardines preserved in oil such as are imported in small bottles and boxes are used, do not wash the fish : do nothing but scrape off the skin and remove the bones. Press the paste into a jar or into small pottingpans, and store for use. Anchovies may be prepared in the same way as sardines. If liked, one may add a little ground mace along with the cayenne pepper. Sardine Fritters. The following recipe for sardine fritters as made in Germany is given in " German National Cookery for English Kitchens.' ' " Cut slices of roll or loaf bread into equal-sized shapes. They must be a good half-inch thick, and enough of them to form a ring round the edge of a small dish. Beat two or three eggs, and mix with them rather more than their measure of milk. Soak the bread slices in this, and fry them in butter a delicate pale brown. Lay the slices round the edge of your dish, letting one slice rest on the edge of the other. Lay poached eggs in the middle of the dish, and put on them the following sauce, which must be just thick enough to spread: IMince the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs quite small. Chop fine some parsley, a little sprig of tarragon, and some pimpernel or bm-net. Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan; put in the minced herbs, and stir them a few minutes to soften ; then add salt, pepper, and the minced eggs, with a dessert-spoonful of gravy, the same of lemon- juice or vinegar, a spoonful of capers whole, a little oil and mustard, and, if required, a few crumbs to thicken. Stir all together. Put a small tuft on each poached egg, and spread the rest on the wreath of sippets. Take about a dozen of sardines, bone them, and mince them small with a piece of butter and a little cayenne pepper. Divide and spread this on the sippets. Place them to warm for a minute in the oven, and serve directly after the soup." Sardine Mustard. Take half-a-dozen sardines, remove the bones carefully, and pound the flesh with the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs. Mix a shallot, finely minced, with the paste. Add also two table-spoonfuls of mustard mixed with vinegar, or any sort of made mustard, two tablespoonf uls of vinegar, and the same of salad oil, together with salt and cayenne pepjDer to taste. Work all together tiU quite smooth. Sardine Salad (a German dish). Take any cold dressed fish. Free it from skin and bone, and tear it into flakes. Put a layer of it in the centre of a dish, and sprinkle lightly over it a small portion of minced gherkins and bruised capers. Place on this a lajer of sliced German sausage, and arrange on the top of the pile sardines split into halves and freed from bone and skin. Cut lettuce-hearts into quarters, place these round the salad, and garnish the dish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise. At the moment of serving, pomover the salad a sauce prepared as follows : Take the flesh of three sardines freed from skin and gristle. Rub this in a mortar to a smooth paste with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs ; and add a pinch of cayenne, a grate of nutmeg, and two table-sjDoonfuls each of oil, vinegar, and light wine. Add the ingredients slowly, and beat the sauce well between every addition. Sardine Sandwiches. Take as many tinned sardines as will be wanted. Scrape the skin lightly off each fish, split it open, cut off the tail, and remove any bones there may be. Take thin slices of bread from a stale loaf, butter these, and lay the sardines between two of them. Cut away the crust, and press the slices with the hand to make them adhere. Cut them with a sharp knife into long narrow sandwiches, and serve on a dish covered ?with a neatly-folded napkin. Garnish with parsley. Sardine Sauce. Take eight sardines, and remove the bones. Make a butter sauce ready, with water or broth, of the ordinary thickness. In this boil the bones of the fish, a bay-leaf, and a finely-minced shallot, adding some pepper, nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon-juice. Whenthe sauce is properly flavoured, strain it, and add to it the fish chopped small. SAR (827) SAU Sardines. The best are the small sardines caught on the coast of Provence in I'rance. From a thousand to twelve hundi-ed fishinj smacks arc engaged in catching these fish off the coast of Brittany from June to the middle of October of each year. The French often cure sardines in red brine, and when thus prepared designate them anchoisees or a'ncJiovicd sardines. These are packed in vessels previously used for holding wine, and exported to the Levant. When quite fresh sardines are considered excellent : they entirely lose their flavour, and become quite insipid if kept for any length of time. On the Mediterranean coasts of Italy and France sardine fishing takes place in the summer months. The fish are cured by washing in salt water, sprinkling with salt, removing the head, gills, &c., washiag again, drying in the sun and wind, steeping in boiling olive oil, draining, and packing in small square tin boxes ; the boxes are filled up with oil, the lid is soldered on, and the box is exposed for a short time to the action of steam or hot water. These cured sardines are largely exported to various countries, where they are considered a delicacy. The real sardine resembles a small pilchard ; but many of the fish cured as sardines are not genuine : they are either sprats, pUchards, or small herrings. Sardines, Canapees of. Take soi ie slices of roll, and cut them neatly into oval or octagon shapes. Toast them slightly, or fry them in oU or butter till they are of a nice yellow colour. Take some sardines, and strip them from the bones. Lay one- half of them aside, and pound the other to a smooth paste with the yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs and some butter. Add mustard, pepper, chives, minced parsley, tarragon, and a little vinegar. \VTien these ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, spread the paste over the prepared slices of roll. On the top lay the other half of the sardines, cut into small strips; and place on each croquette little slices of pickled gherkins, and here and there a shelled prawn. Sardines, Fresh.. Clean the sardines, and press them gently -with a soft cloth till they are quite dry. Broil them on a gridiron over a clear brisk fire, and when they are done enough on one side turn them upon the other. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve very hot. Time to broil, two minutes each side. Sufficient, six or eight for a small dish. SardineSj Spinach, with.-;- Boil the spinach. Before doing this let it lie in water for a little while, and rinse it several times in fresh water. Put it into boiling water with a minced onion and plentj' of salt, and let it boil gently, xmcovered, for eight or ten minutes. Drain and chop the spinach. Take a few sardines, remove the skin and bones, then mince the fish, and stir them among the vegetables. Take a good-sized piece of butter, and melt it in a stewpan, dredge in as much flour as it will absorb, and add a little water or broth, together "with salt and pepper. Stir it to a thick sauce, then stir the spinach in. Send to table when quite hot, garnishing the dish with hard-boiled eggs sliced. Sardines, To Serve. Knives made on purjiose to open sardine boxes maybe purchased of the dealers. "When the fish are to be served, open the box, lift out as many sardines as are needed, wipe them lightly, and arrange them neatly on a small dish. Garnish with chopped parsley and capers, and pour a little fresh saladoil over them. On no account use the oil which is in the box. Send bread and butter to table with them. Sardonic Salad {see Saxon Salad, sometimes called Sardonic Salad). Sassafras. An agreeable beverage is made in North America by infusing sassafras bark or sassafras wood, and a similar beverage was once very commonly sold at daybreak in the streets of the metropolis, under the name of saloop. A few saloop vendors are still to be seen plying their vocation. The leaves of sassafras contain so much mucuage that they are used for thickening soup. Sassafras (Invalid Cookery). The simple infusion of sassafras is a useful preparation in some complaints, and sassafras tea is often found to be of great service in the case of aged persons suffering from chronic rheumatism. A few chips of the wood are frequently added to common tea. Sassafras is a cheap and agreeable beverage, and when China tea, taken late in the evening, prevents sleep, sassafras may be substituted. Sassafras Cordial. Take haK-a-pound of sassafras chips, two ounces of compound extract of sarsaparilla, one ounce of gum arable dissolved in white -wane, one ounce of juniperberries bruised, two ounces of pistachio nuta blanched and beaten, one ounce of syrup of lemons, two ounces of rosemarj leaves shred fine, one ounce of sweet marjoram shred fine, one oimce each of candied lemon and citron, nine ounces of sugar candy beaten fine, twelve ounces of stoned and cut muscatel raisins, three quarts of sherry wine, and two quarts of proof spirit of wine. Beat the nuts with a little of the wine, and put all the above ingi-edients into a jar, which cork and seal. Set the jar in a hot water bath, and let the cordial infuse eight hours every day for a week. Keep it two months ; then strain ,and filter, and use the cordial when wanted. Sassafras cordial is greatly improved by age. Saubaglione. This delicious preparation should be put into glasses, and may be served hot or cold. Put three or four yolks of eggs into a chocolate pot with an equal number of glasses of Frontignac or other sweet wine and a few spoonfuls of finely-powdered loaf sugar. Place the mixtm-e on a clear gentle fire, and whisk it to the consistencj' of thick cream. Pour it out, and serve. It is usual to allow an egg and a glass of wine for each guest. Sauce, Fish and (a Scotch dish). Take a sufficient number of fresh haddocks, clean them, and cut off the heads, tails, and fins. Boil the latter thoroughly to make stock. When done, strain it, and take the liquid part, adding a little flour mixed with cold water, butter, salt, and some chopped parsley, SAIT (828) SAU and pour it over the fish, which has been previously cut in pieces. Boil the whole till sufficiently cooked. The result is said to he much more savoury if the fish are simply boiled in water. Sauce for Bouilli {see Pot-au-Feu). When the bouilli or boiled beef which has been stewed in a pot-au-feu is to be served, a sauce made as follows may be poured over it, or sent to table in a tureen as an accompaniment : Mince a boiled carrot, and put it into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a dozen button onions, two or three pickled cucumbers, some pickled walnuts if hked, and a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. Pour over these ingredients a pint of good stock, simmer all very gently together till the hquor is considerably reduced and flavoured pleasantly. Add thickened brown gravy to make the requisite quantity of sauce, let the preparation boil up, and serve. If more convenient, mushroom ketchup may be substituted for the mushrooms and walnut pickle for the walnuts. Time to prepare, about three-quarters of an hour. Sauce for Freshwater Pish. Mince half a dozen mushrooms, half a dozen onions, and a clove of garhc. The latter may be omitted. Put the vegetables into a saucepan, pour over them as much stock as will cover them, and simmer gently till the sauce is pleasantly flavoured. Strain the liquor through a jelly-bag, and press with the back of a wooden spoon to obtain as much sauce as possible. Add a glass of claret, boil up once more, and serve." A few di-ops of anchovy essence may be added or not, as preferred, and the sauce may be thickened with brown thickening. Sauce for Relishing Beef Hot or Cold. Put two tea-spoonfuls of prepared mustard into a large cup, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and five table-spoonfuls of good vinegar. Stir this preparation briskly for two or three minutes with a wooden or silver fork, then pour it into a tureen in which has been placed a stick of horseradish finely grated ; stir the mixture again, and serve. Probable cost of horseradish, 2d. per stick. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Sauce Mirepoix, or Essence of Vegetables, for Flavouring. When stock is already prepared for sauce, and it requires flavouring, proceed as follows : Take a shced carrot, a sliced onion, two sticks of celery cut small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTne, and a bay-leaf, together with a shallot and an inch or two of raw ham or bacon-rind, if these are at hand. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, and stir the above ingredients briskly in this over a sharp fire until they become brightly browned. Pour over them as much stock as will cover this, and simmer gently. Add pepper and a little spice, if required. A glass of wine may be stirred in or not. When the preparation is pleasantly and rather strongly flavoured, strain it off for use. A larger quantity of this preparation may be made than is needed for present use. If put in a cool place, it wiU keep for some days in cool weather. Time to simmer the flavouring, twenty to thii-ty minutes. Sauce, Store, for Cold Meat and Game. Pound the flesh of five anchovies with three cloves of garlic and six shallots. Add half a spoonful of cayenne pepper, half a spoonful of white pepper, three blades of mace powdered, one grated nutmeg, half a lemon sliced, four bay-leaves, and a sprig of basil. Put the ingredients into a saucepan, pour over them a pint of walnut ketchup, a pint of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of good vinegar, and a quarter of a pint of soy. Simmer aU gently together tUl the flavour of the ingredients is extracted, strain, bottle securely, and store for use. Time to boil, one hour. Sauce, Store, for Cold Meat or Fish. Slice two cloves of garlic, put them into a quart wine-bottle, and pour over them two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, with a tablespoonful of soy, and half a pint of chilli vinegar. Put the bottle on one side, and let it remain for six days, shaking it frequently during the time. On the seventh day fill up the bottle with good ordinary vinegar, and in ten days strain it off. Put the sauce into smaU bottles, cork these closely, and store for use. Sauce, Store, for Fish,Game, Steaks, &C. Pound the flesh of six fine anchovies smoothly, and with them six chopped cloves of garhc. If the flavour of garlic is disliked, shallots may be substituted, or they may be omitted. Add half a drachm of bruised cloves and half a drachm of cayenne pepper, put the mixture into a saucepan, pour over it half a pint each of mushroom ketchup, walnut pickle, and soy, and simmer all gently for ten minutes. Strain and bottle the sauce for use. Saucepans. Under the general name of saucepans are included utensils indispensable in cookery, of different shapes and sizes, and of various kinds. A description of those generally in use will be found in another place. It may be said here, however, that the cook cannot be too careful to keep her saucepans sweet and clean, and to do this she must fill them with water the moment she has finished using them, clean them as soon as possible afterwards, on no account put them away dirty, remember to dry them before the fire a few minutes before putting them away, and keep them in a dry place. A celebrated French cook used to say that a dirty saucepan was sufficient to spoil the effect of a whole dinner. Besides being washed, scoured, and rinsed inside each time they are used, saucepans should be made bright outside on the upper rim, and where the fire does not touch them. When tinned saucepans are used, they should be examined constantly, and retinned as soon as ever they begin to redden, as satisfactory cookery cannot be carried on with an insufficiently tinned saucepan. It will not only render whatever is cooked in it unwholesome, but will injure its colour and taste. Saucer Cake. Mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a quarter of a pound of best arrow SAU ( 829 ) SATT root. Beat four ounces of butter to cream, add the same weight of powdered sugar, the flour and arrowroot, one ounce of candied peel finely shred, and two well-whisked eggs. Beat the mixture till it is smooth and light, put it into a shallow dish lined with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven. If the cake is kept in an air-tight tin, it will keep good for some time. Time to bake, an hour or more. Probable cost, Is. '2d. Saucer Pudding (suitable for a child or invalid). jNIix a tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, and stir into this as much boiling milk as will make up the quantity to a tea-cupful. Let the liquor cool, then add a well-beaten egg and a little sugar and flavouring. Pour the preparation into a large buttered saucer, and bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, turn the pudding upon a plate, and serve with jam, or with a little sherry if preferred. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. Sauces. The skill and knowledge of a cook is shown in nothing more assuredly than in the way in which she manufactures and chooses sauces. M. Soyer used to say that sauces are to cookery what grammar is to language and the gamut is to music; and another great authority says that "a good sauce ought to call into activity each ramification of the palatic organs." However this may be, sauce ought certainly to serve either as a relish or a finish to the meat which it accompanies : it ought, too, to be carefully made, and attractively sent to table. It will be found that in this book the names of the sauces appropriate to be served with each dish are usually mentioned in the instructions for making it. With regard to sauces in general it should be remembered that hot sauces should be served very hot ; that when sauces need to be kept hot they should not be kejot boiling, but should be put into a bain-marie, or, failing this, the saucepan should be placed in a vessel containing boiling water ; that eggs and acids should not be added to sauce until it has cooled for two minutes, and, after they have been added, the sauce should be stirred without ceasing, and should not be allowed to boil; that cream should be boiled before it is mixed with boiling sauce, and that the sauce should be stirred well after it is put in. An enamelled saucepan is the best in which to make sauce. Sauces and Gravies. Recipes for the follo\\ing sauces and gravies wiU be found under their respective headings : Admiral's Allemaxd Almond Almond for Puddings Anchovy Anchovy and Caper Anchovy Butter Anchovy" for Beef Anchovy for Salmon Apple, Baked Apple for Roast Goose Arrowroot Arrowroot, Clear Arrowroot, to Thicken Sauces Artichoke Artichokes in White Sauce Asparagus Aurora Bacon Beuh.\mel. or French White Beef, Boiled, Sauce for, Italian Beef Sauce, Piquant Beef, Stewed, and Celery Sauce Beef, Stewed, and Oyster S.iucE Beef with Sauce Espagnole Beef, with Wine Sauce Tkemblant Benton Blonde I Boar's Head Bordel.aise Brawn Bread Bread for Partridges Bretonne, for Cold OR Hot Beef Brown Brown Roux or Thickening Butter Butter, Burnt Caper, for Boiled Mutton Caper, for Fish Caper, Substitute for Carp, Sauce for Carrier Carrot Cauliflower CeleryCelery, A quick W'AY Celery, for Turkeys, Fowls, &c. Celery, with White S.IUCE Cherokee or Store Cherry Cherry, for Sweet Puddings Chestnut, Brown Chestnut, White Chetney Chicken, WITH Sauce Chicken, Broiled, Mushroom Mushroom Sauce for Chicken, Sauce for Chicken, Sauce for Roast Chicken, White Sauce for Boiled Christopher North' s, for Meat and Game Cinnamon Claret Cockle Cocoa-nut Codlings, S.\uce for Crab Crab Butter Cream Cress, for Fish and Poultry Cucumber Cucumber, AVhite CULLIS CURA90A Currant, for Sucking Pig Currant, for VenisonCurry Custard, for SweesPuddings Cutcharee, to Serve with Ke bob bed Meat Cutlets, Sauce for Dory, or Caper Duck, Gravy for Dutch Dutch, for Fish Dutch, Green Eels, Sauce for Egg Egg, for Calf's Head Eggs and Sauce Eggs and Sauce Robert Eggs and White Sauce Epicurean EsCAVEEKE Fast Day Fennel, for Mackerel Fish Fish, Pink S. uce for Fish, Sauce for Boiled Fish, without Butter Fowl, Apicius Sauce FOR Fowl, Boiled, with Mushroom Sauce Fowl, Sauce for Fowl, White Oyster, FOR Fruit, for Puddings Fruit, Sweet Game, Sauce for Game, Piquant Garlic Garnish, Celery Sauce for General's Genevese Genoa Genoese German, for Brawn, &c. German Pudding Ginger Gobble, for Fish Goo.se, Cold, for Gooseberry, for Mackerel Gravy Gravy, Beef, Clear Gravy, Beef, for Poultry and Game Gravy, Beef, Plain C4ravy, Bon Vivant's Sauce for Gravy, BrownGravy, Colouring AND Flavouring SAir ( 830 ) SAU Gravy, Cowheel Gkavy, English, Bhown Gkavy, Espagnole Gravy, Espagxole, made without meat Gravy, Essence of Ham for Gravy for Boiled Meat Gravy for Curried Fish Gravy for Cutlets Gravy for Ducks Gravy for Fish Pies Gravy for Fowls, Cheap Gravy for Game Gravy for Goose or Duck Gravy for Grills and Broils Gravy for Haddock, Baked Gravy for Hare Gravy for Hashes Gravy for Hashes, Cheap Gravy for Minced Veal Gravy for Patties Gravy for Pike Gravy for Rissoles Gravy for Roast Meat Gravy for Roast Venison Gravy from Liebig's Extract of Meat Gravy in Haste Gravy, Jelly for Gravy, Jugged Gravy, Kidney Gravy, made without meat, for Fowls Gravy Maigre for Fish Gravy, Onion Gravy, Orange Gravy, Piquant, for Hash Gravy, Seasoning for Gravy, Shallot Gravy Soup, with Vermicelli Gravy, Stock for Gravy, To Clarify Gravy, To Improve THE Flavour and Strength of Gravy, To Keep Gravy, To make Mutton like Venison Gravy, Veal, for White vSauce Gravy, White, for Fish Gravy, White Roux, for Thickening Grayling, Sauce for Green Dutch Green, for Ducks Green Mint Green Ravigote Hachee Haddock, Boiled, with Egg Sauce Haddocks in Brown Sauce Ham, for Flavouring Gravies Ham, for Grills and Broils Hanover Hare, Sauce for Hare, Liver Sauce FOR Hare, Wine Sauce FOR Harrogate, for Wild Fowl Hashes, Sauce for Herb Herb, for Flavouring Herring, German Herring, Sauce for Hip, German Holstein, for Fish Horseradish Horseradish, Brown Horseradish, for Cold Roast Beef Horseradish, for Hot Roast Beef Horseradish, Supe riorFlavouring for Horseradish with Apples Horseradish with Cream Horseradish avith Eggs Hot, for Broils Household Gravy Indian Indian Pickle Italian Italian, for Boiled Beef Italian (Rousse ct Blanche) Italian, White John Dory, Sauce for Kidney Gravy Kitchen Mixed Spice, FOR White Sauce Kitchiner's Store Lamb, Sauce for Lemon and Liver, FOR Fowls Lemon, for Puddings Lemon, White, for Fowls Liebig's Extract of Meat, Gravy from Liver and LemonLiver and Parsley Liver, for Fish Liver, for Roast Hare Lobster Lobster, Mock Lobster, Piquant Lyonnaise Mackerel or Fennel Mackerel Roe Maitre d'Hotel Man dram Mango Chutney Marmalade, Orange Mary's Matelote, for Pike Matrimony Mayonnaise Meat Gravy, for Sauce Milanese Milk or Cream Mint Mint, Green Miser's Mogul Morels Mushroom, for Chicken Mushroom, Brown Mushroom, Pickled Mushroom, White Mussel Mustard Mutton, Sauce for Naples, for Fish Nasturtium Seed Neapolitan Old Currant, for Sucking Pig, &c. Olive, for Ducks, &c. Onion Onion, Broaa Onion, Brown, Piquant Onion, GermanOnion, SOUBISE Onion, White Oxion,White, Common Onion, Young Onions, Burnt, for Gravies Onions, for Seasoning Orange Cream Orange, for Cold Meat Orange, for Ducks, &c. Orange, for Sweet Puddings Orange Graa'y, for Teal, &c. OUBE Oyster, Brown Oyster, Mock Oyster, White Papillote, for Veal or Mutton Cutlets Paris, for Sweet Puddings Parsley Parsley and Liver Parsley, Imitation Parsley Juice, for Colouring Sauces Partridge, Cold, Sauce for Pike, Sauces for Pike, White Sauce for Pine-Apple, for Puddings Piquant Piquant, for Storing Plum, for Puddings AND Sweet Dishes Plum, Simple, for Sweet Puddings Plum-pudding PoiVKADE Pol VRADE, easily MADE Poor Man's Poor Man's, for Cold Meat Portuguese, for Fish PoULETTE Potatoes with Sauce Potatoes with Sauce Piquant Potatoes with White Sauce Poultry, Gravy for Prince's, for Broiled Fish Provencale Prune Pudding, Careme's Pudding, Sweet Punch, for Sweet Puddings Queen Mary's Queen's Queen's, for Boiled Plum Pudding Quin's Rabbit, Mushroom Sauce for Rabrit, Roasted, Sauce for Rabbit, Sauces for Radish Radish, Horse Raffald's Ragouts, Gravies for Raspberry Raspberry, Danish Ratafia, for Sweet Puddings Ravigote Butter, for Sauces Ravigote, for Hare AND Venison Ravigote, Green, for Salads Reading Red Mullet, Sauce FOR Regent's, for Sweet Puddings Regent's Store' Relishing RiCARDo, FOR Game, &c Rice Flour, for Thickening Sauces Rice, Substitute for Bread Sauce SAT! (831 ) SAU Roasted Meat, Gkavy FOK Robert Robert, Ude's vay Root Gravy Rose, for Sweet Puddings Roux Roux, Brown Roux, White Royal, for Fish Royal, for Turkeys, &c. RussianSago St. Menehould Salad Salmi Salmon, Sauce for Shallot Sharp Shikaree Shrimp SounisE Sorrel Spanish Spinach Store Supreme S\veet Sweet Herb Tarragon Tartar Thickening for Tomato TOURNEE Truffle Universal Vegetable Marrow Veloute Venison Walnut Ketchup White Wild Duck Wine Worcester Sauces and Gravies, Dr. Kitchiner on. It is of as much importance that the cook should know how to make a boat of good gravy for her poultry, &c., as that it should be sent up of proper complexion and nicely frothed. A great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the accompaniments to each dish being appropriate and well adapted to it. The most homely fare may be made relishing, and the most excellent and independent improved by a ?well-made sauce as the most perfect picture may by being well varnished. " It is the duty of a good sauce," says the editor of the Almanach d s Gourmands, "to insinuate itself all round and about the maxillary glands, and imperceptibly awaken into activity each ramification of the organs of taste; if not sufficiently savoury, it cannot produce this effect, and if too piquant, it will paralyse, instead of exciting, those delicious titillations of tongue and vibrations of palate that only the most accomplished philosophers of the mouth can produce on the highly-educated palates of thrice happy grands gourmands." Let your sauces ea?h display a decided character ; send up your plain sauces (oyster, lobster, &c.) as pure as possible ; they should only taste of the materials from which they take their ruime. The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the hunt for a relish, that they seem to think they cannot make sauce sufficiently savoury without putting into it everything that ever was eaten ; and supposing every addition must be an improvement, they frequently overpower the natural flavour of their plain sauces by overloading them with salt and spices, &c. But remember, these will be deteriorated by any addition, save only just salt enough to awaken the palate. The lover of "piquance" and compound flavours may have recourse to " the magazine of taste." On the contrary, of compound sauces, the ingredients should be so nicely proportioned that no one be predominant ; so that, from the equal union of the combined flavours, such a fine mellow mixture may be produced whose very novelty cannot fail of being acceptable to the persevei-ing gourmand, if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at his table. An ingenious cook will form as endless a variety of these compositions as a musician with his seven notes, or a painter with his colours ; no part of her business offers so fair and frequent an opportunity to display her abilities. Spices, herbs, &c., are often very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled together. Why have clove and allspice, or mace and nutmeg in the same sauce? or marjoram, thyme, and savoury or onions, leeks, shallots, and garlic ? One will very well supply the place of the other, and the frugal cook may save something considerable by attending to tliis, to the advantage of her employers, and her own time and trouble. You might as well, to make soup, order one quart of water from the Thames, another from the New River, a third from Hampstead, and a fourth from Chelsea, with a certain portion of spring and rainwater. To become a perfect mistress of the art of cleverly extracting and combining flavours, besides the gift of a good taste, requkes all the experience and skill of the most accomplished professor, and especially an intimate acquaintance with the palate for which she is working. Send your sauces to table as hot as possible. Nothing can be more unsightly than the surface of a sauce in a frozen state, or garnished with grease on the top. The best way to got rid of this is to pass it through a tamis or napkin pre\'iously soaked in cold water; the coldness of the napkin wiU coagulate the fat, and only suft'er the pure gravy to pass through ; if any particles of fat remain take them off by applying filtering paper as blotting paper is applied to writing. Let your sauces boil up after yeu put in wine, anchovy, or thickening, that their flavours may be well blended with the other ingredients ; and keep in mind that the chef d'auvrc of cookery is to entertain the mouth without offending the stomach. The cook's judgment must direct her to lessen or increase either of the ingredients according to the taste of those she works for, and will always bo on the alert to ascertain what are the favourite accompaniments desired with each dish. When you open a bottle of ketchup, essence of anchovy, &c., throw away the old cork, and stop it closely with a now cork thiit will fit it very tight. Economy in c?rks is extremely unwise ; in order to save a more trifle in the price of the cork, you run the risk of losing the valuable article it is intended to preserve. It is a vulgar error that a bottle must be well stopped when the cork is forced down oven with the mouth of it ; it is rather a sign that the cork is too small, and it should be re-drawn and a larger one put in. Sauces, To Colour. When spinachleaves for green colouring cannot be had, take a handful of young parsley-leaves stripped from the stalks. Wash and dry them, and pound them in a mortar. Put the pulp upon a reversed sieve, and press the juice through it with a wooden spoon. Put the juice into a small jar, set this in a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for three or four SATT ( 832 ) SAU minutes. (For additional information regarding the colouring of sauces, see Colouring.) Sauces, To Thicken. Sauces may be thickened with roux, brown and white, arrowroot, ground rice, liour, eggs, butter, and milk, or cream. (For thickening with roux sec Roux, or Thickening, Brown.) When eggs are used, the yolks only are needed. The sauce should be allowed to cool for two minutes. The yolks should then be beaten, mixed with a little of the sauce, and added gradually to the rest. The sauce should then be stirred without ceasing until it is quite hot, and it should on no account be allowed to boil. Flour, ground rice, and arrowroot should first be mixed smoothly with a little cold liquor, and to this should be added a little hot liquor. The mixture should then be poured slowly with one hand into the sauce, which should be well stirred with the other, and it should be allowed to boil imtil it is so thick that it wiU coat the spoon. Butter and milk, or cream, though often spoken of as thickening sauces, tend more to enrich than to thicken them. Cream or milk should be boiled before being added to boiling sauce, and butter should always be stirred into the sauce cold the moment iDcfore serving, and after the saucel an has been taken from the fire. Sauer Kraut. This preparation is largely used throughout the northern parts of Europe, and especially in Germany. It is served as an accompaniment to smoked meats, boiled ham, bacon, -beef, or sausages. The taste for this delicacy is certainly an acquired one, but it is a very general one in some districts. Sauer kraut is considered an excellent antiscorbutic. Take large well-grown cabbages with fine white hearts. Remove the outer leaves and stalks, and shred the cabbages very finely. Cover the bottom of a large pan or tub with cabbageleaves. Throw in the cabbage as it is shred, and sprinkle salt evenly upon the layers. One handful of salt will be amply suificiont for a large panful of shred cabbage ; too much salt will prevent fermentation. Keep pressing the cabbage down closely as it is thrown in. When the vessel is quite full, sprinkle a little salt over the top, and cover it first with cabbage-leaves and then with a linen cloth ; lay a wooden cover over all, and on this put a heavy weight. Keep the pan in a warm cellar till fermentation has begun. This may be known by small white globules forming on the surface. AVhen the moisture dries in a crust over the top the Ivraut is ready for use. It should be kept in a cool place till wanted. Once a week the cabbage-leaves should either be renewed or washed, and the linen cloth should be washed in cold water, and replaced. Some persons put caraway-seeds and juniper-berries amongst the layers, and think the kraut is improved by the addition. If, owing to any cause, after waiting two or three days there is no sign of fermentation, a cold weak brine of salt and water should be poured over the cabbage. The cabbages will be all the better if they are allowed to lie in a cool corner for several days before being used. Time, three weeks to prepare the kraut. It will keep for a year. Sauer Kraut (another way). Select sound solid cabbages, slice them across, and place the slices in a barrel in layers about four inches high ; over each layer strew a handful of salt and some caraway seeds. Press the whole down tightly, and when the barrel is full place a heavy weight upon the end. After standing a week, according to the temperature, the mass vnW begin more or less to ferment ; and when the fermentation is over the barrel should be headed up. There is no vinegar used in the preparation. Sauer Kraut (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe). Take a dozen hard white cabbages, trim and divide them into quarters, take out all the stalks from the heart of the cabbage, cut it transversely with a knife or chaff-cutter into very small slips. Mix six pounds of salt with four ounces of juniper berries and an ounce of caraway seed; put the cabbage into a cask, first strewing the bottom with some of the mixture, then a layer of cabbage; take care that the head of the cask slips down within the staves and fits closely to the sides; press the cover down, and lay a large stone on it. Sot the cask in a shed or outhouse for three months, it wiU then be coming ready for use. When you use it take care of the stone and cover, scrape aside some of the top, take out what you want, and replace what you scraped off the top, and cover down the cask as closely as before. Put the kraut into a stewpan with a little cold water, simmer it for half an hour, drain in a colander ; when done, put the meat you intend to dress into the stewpan and cover it over w ith the kraut ; put just water enough to stew the meat and give grav}to serve up with it. When you dish up, put the kraut and gravy first into the dish, and lay the meat on them. It may be added that some sauer kraut is so juicy as not to require any water : the fatty materials employed by the Germans to stew with it are generally sufficient. Sauer Kraut, T9 Cook. Lay a goodsized piece of butter in a saucepan, and let it melt. Put in half the sauer kraut, and lay on this the meat to be made ready with it : either ham or bacon smoked and pared, pork, or any sort of sausage. Over all place the other half of the kraut, pour in a glassful of white wine, and add a little water occasionally to moisten it. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the contents stew gently tiU the sauer kraut is soft and yellow. When cooked enough, take oiit the meat. Credge in a table-spoonful of flour, let the kraut stew half an hour longer, then place the meat again in the saucepan to get quite hot. Stir the kraut now and then vith a wooden spoon, and take care that it does not burn. "VVhat is left over of the sauer kraut is good warmed up on the following day or a day or two after ; it may be served with some other meat. As an accompaniment to smoked meats, roast pork, sausages, &c., sauer kraut may be prepared in the way just described, but without the meat ; if so, stir in a thickening of flour and butter before sending to table. It is to be observed that sauer kraut can hardly be cooked too much. It requires at first from two and a half to three hours' stewing. SAU ( 833 ) SAU Sauer Kraut, To Dress (another mode). Take two pounds of kraut, throw it into hoiliug water, and let it remain for ten minutes. Cool it, and draw the water from it. Dissolve a jjint of clarified fat in a large stewpan, put in the kraut, pour a quart of stock over it, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the kraut gently over a slow fire till it is soft and j-ellow. When it has simmered five or six hours, put with it a hunch of savoury herbs, an onion stuck with two cloves, a pinch of pepjier, one pound of pork sausages, half a poimd of hacon, and half a pound of German sausage. Boil all gently together, and take out the meat when it is done enough. The sausages will be done first, and the bacon last. Drain the sauer kraut, and pile it on a hot dish. Lay the sausages upon it, then cut the rest of the meat into neat pieces, and arrange them aU round. )Serve very hot. Sauer Kraut, To Dress (another mode). Take as much kraut as will be required out of the barrel, and wash it lightly first in warm and then in cold water. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in half of the kraut, lay upon this the meat which it is to accompany ham, beef, pork sausages, &c., are those usually served with it lay the remainder of the Ivraut on the meat, and pour over it a little stock and a glass of wine if liked. Add stock or water occasionally, as it is required, to moisten the preparation, and stir it every now and then to keep it from burning. Cover closely, and simmer gently over a slow fire until the meat is done enough, and the ki-aut is soft. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauer kraut round it. It can scarcely be boiled too long, and can be warmed up again with fresh meat a second time. Time to boil, not less than three hours at the first boiling. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Sauer Kraut, To Pickle The following interesting particulars as to the German practice in regard to the preparation of sauer Ivraut are drawn from the " German National Cookery." The finest and hardest white cabbages must be chosen, and the colour will be improved if they are allowed to lie heaped together in a cool corner for several days before being used. The cutting is usually done with an instrument called a kohlhobcl (cabbageplane). Instead of this a large knife will do. Throw away the outer leaves of the cabbages, and halve and quarter them. Cut out the stalks and larger ribs of the leaves. Begin at the top of the head to cut them across in very narrow strips. Have ready a well-seasoned oak-barrel, or pickling-tub, or an earthen bread-pan would do. Cover the bottom of the vessel with clean cabbage-leaves, throw in the cabbage as it is cut, sprinkle it with salt, equally dispersed as it is thrown in. Many scatter in a few juniper-berries or carawayseeds. As the shred cabbage is put into the tub it should bo stamped down hard with a club. AYhen all is packed close, strew a little salt over the top, cover it with a few cabbageleaves, and then with a clean linen cloth. Put on it a wooden lid that -n-ill fit inside the vessel, and lay on this a heavy stone. Do not put the 1 56 ' ' kraut-stand " in too cool a place till fei-mentation has begun ; this may be known by small white globules forming on the brine, which ought to appear above the kraut after a day or two. If this is not the case, boil salt and water, let it get cold, and then pour it over. This latter must not be a strong brine. A good handful of salt is enough to allow for a large bucket or firkin of cut cabbage ; too much prevents fermentation. In a fortnight the cloth on the top must be \ ell washed in cold water, and spread over again. At the same time the leaves on the top must either be well rinsed also or renewed. This washing must be done once every week, whether kraut is taken out or not. In two or three weeks it is pickled enough for use, and wiU keep good for a year. Saunders. Take one pound of underdressed meat of any kind, moisten with two or three spoonfuls of good gravy, and season with pepper and salt. Spread a layer of mashed potatoes on a dish, put the mince upon them, and cover the whole with mashed potatoes. Rough the surface of the potatoes with a fork, and bake the preparation in a moderate oven. When it is lightly browned on the top it is done enough. Send to table with it in a tureen a little of the same gravy with which it was moistened. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sausage. Sausages are made of fresh meat of any kind finely minced, highly seasoned, and put into skins prepared for the purpose. In the country they are mostly made at home, but in large towns they are generally bought readymade. When the latter plan is adopted, care should be taken to purchase the sausages of a thoroughly respectable dealer, as the mode of their preparation offers peculiar temptatioEs to the introduction into their composition of unpalatable meat which could not be otherwise used. Sometimes sausages are made without skins ; when skins are used they should first be cleansed with scrupulous care. Various kinds of meat are made into sausages, pork and beef being the most common ; the proportion of seasoning used varies with individual taste. As a general rule, half an ounce of salt and a quarter of an oimce of pepper will sufficiently season a pound of sausage-meat. Sausage Cakes, Soyer's. Chop some lean pork very fine, ha ?ing pre\-iously detached aU the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat add three-quarters of a jjound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley. When the whole is well chopped, put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; then have ready a pig's caul, which cut into pieces largo enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size oJ an egg, which wrap up, keeping to the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire. Sausage Dumplings. Take as many sausages as it is intended to make dumplings. Bend each one into a ring, and sew or skewer SAU (834) SAU it in that position. Enclose it in good suet crust, pinch the edges securely to prevent leakage, and tie each dumpling in a separate cloth. When all are finished plunge the dumplings into a pan of boiling water, and boil qiiiclcly until done enough. Turn them out carefully, and serve at once. Brown sauce should be sent to table with them. Sausages dressed in this way are always liked by children. Time to boil the dumplings, half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Sausage, Italian. Mince two pounds of lean pork with one pound of fat pork. Season the mixture with salt, mixed spice, corianderseed, and bruised aniseed. When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, moisten the mixture with pig's blood and white wine sufficiently to bind it together, but be careful not to render it too moist. Cut some narrow strips from the best part of a calf's head, mix these with the mince, and put the preparation into sausage-skins. Tie the ends securely, plunge the sausages into boiling water, and boil them gently until done enough. Afterwards di-y them in a smoke-house, or in a chimney over a wood fire, till they become hard. Time to boil, half an hour. Sausage-meat Cakes. Make the sausage-meat in the usual way, and allow two parts of lean to one of fat. Season nicely, and after mincing the meat pound it lightly in a mortar. Make it up into round cakes ; flour these, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take them up, drain them on a sieve, and serve on a hot dish. Send brown sauce to table with them. If liked, the sausage-cakes can be placed round a dish with mashed potatoes in the centre. Time to frj-, ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sausage-meat Cakes (another way). Take two or more pounds of good sausage-meat. Press it into a buttered dish, and bake in a gentle oveiw When done enough, turn it out, and send it to table with a little gravy round it, and more in a tureen. If preferred, the cake may be steamed over boiling water instead of being baked. Time to bake, one hour or more. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sausage-meat Stuflng. Take equal weights of lean and fat pork. Mince finely, first separately and afterwards together, and mix with them a third of their weight in finely-grated bread-crumbs. Season the mixture with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and bind it together with yolk of egg. When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, the forcemeat is ready for use. If liked, a little powdered mace and a small proportion of chopped sago can be added to the preparation. Probable cost, one pound of stuffing. Is. Sufficient for a moderate-sized turkey. Sausage Pie. Mince separately one pound of lean beef, one pound of sheep's or pig's liver, and half a pound of fat pork. When finely shred, mix the ingredients thoroughly, and add two table-spoonfuls of stale crumb of bread grated, a teaspoonful of unmixed mustard, a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar, and a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. Moisten the preparation with two table-spoonfuls of cold water. Press it into a butteied dish, lay one or two slices of fat bacon on the top, and bake in a gentle .oven. Serve hot or cold. Time to bake, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sausage Poison. It is well known that sausages made or kept under certain unknown conditions are occasionally highly poisonous; and in Germany, where sausages form a staple article of diet, fatal cases of sausage poisoningare by no means rare. The symptoms are slow in appearing: threie or four days sometimes elapsing before they manifest themselves. The poison may be described as of the narcoticoirritant character, and is very dangerous. Dr. Taylor in his "Medical Jurisprudence" records the cases of three persons who died from the effects of liver-sa,usages, which had been made from an apparently healthy pig, slaughtered only the week before. The inspection threw no light on the cause of death. This case diffci\s from those commonly occurring in Germany, in this respect : that here the sausages were fresh, while the sausages which have proved poisonous in Germany had always been made a long time. Dr. Kemer, a German physician, who has specially studied the subject, believes that the poison is an acid, formed in consequence of it modified process of putrefaction ; others regard it as an empyreumatic oil. Chambers. Sausage Pudding. Line a moderatesized pudding-basin with good suet crust ; fill it with one pound of fresh pork sausages which have been scalded and have had the skins removed, and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Mince an onion, and fry it with two sage-leaves in butter tiU the onion begins to turn yellow. Dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour over it, and pour upon it two or three tablespoonfuls of good stock. Stu- the sauce over the fire till it boils, season with salt and cayenne, let it cool, and strain it over the sausages. Cover the pudding with the pastry with. which the dish was Uned. Tie it in a pudding-cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly till the pudding is done enough. Turn it upon a hot dish, and send brown gravy to table with it. Time to boil the pudding, an hour and a half. Probable cost, sausages. Is. per pound. Sausage Rolls. Enclose a whole sausage in a piece of pastry rolled out just largo enough to contain it, and a quarter of an inch thick. Pinch the edges securely, and then bake the roll on a baking sheet in a well-heated oven. They may be served hot or cold. Or take equal weights of cold dressed chicken and tongue, or cold roast veal and ham. Mince the meat finely, and season well with salt, cayenne, and powdered sweet herbs. The latter may bu omitted, if hked. Press the mince together, and enclose it in a puff paste, or good pastry that is large enough to contain it. Bake in a wcU-heated oven. These rolls are especially adapted for pic-nic parties, Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. SAIT (835) SAU Sausage Toast (a breakfast dish) . Fry or bake two or three sausages. When done enough, strip the skin from them, and spread the meat on a slice of brown bread toasted and buttered. Grate a spoonful of gruyere or Cheshire cheese over the meat, and serve hot. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to fry the sausages. Probable cost, 9d. Sufiicient for one person. Sausages. Recipes for the following sausages will be found under their respective lieadings : Beei' Oxford Beef, Home-made Oxfokd, without BOLOG-VA Skin's Bologna, m'ith Oysteu Onions Pork Cambridge Pork, Dressed Forcemeat of Sau- Pork, for eating sages cold Fowl Pork, with o it Frankfort Skins Game Poultry and Veal Ham, German Eajosit Jewish, or Chorissa Pabbit, Made from Liver Dressed Rabbit Liver,]Mecklenburg Sausages and CabLobster BAGE Marrow Spanish Mecklenburg Toast Mecklenburg Liver Veal Mutton White Sausages are a convenient method of preserving many sorts of meat that would not keep well otherwise for any length of time. The principle of making all sausages is alike, and consists in simply chopping the particular kind of meat employed, and seasoning it with spices and herbs of various kinds, bread-crumbs and eggs, salt, or mustard, or any of these ingi-edients, mixed in such proportions as are agreeable. Then the whole is enclosed in portions of the prepared intestines of a hog, sheep, or calf, very well washed and scraped till thoroughlj' clean. Amongst the herbs emploj ed are the following : shallot, onions, leek, sage, thyme, garlic, marjoram, and parsley. For some kinds of sausages, besides meat, anchovies, oysters, and red herring are added. The blood of various animals, as the ox, hog, goose, &c., are used in this way, mixed with ?oatmeal, crumbs of bread, and seasonings of various kinds. The Germans have acquired a high reputation for the manufacture of sausages, in which smoked meat is generally used. Sausages and Cabbage. Cut ofP the outer leaves and the hard stalk fi-om a finehearted savoy or cabbage, and carefully cleanse it from all impurities. Slice it finely, as if it were to be pickled, rinse it well, and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling (unsalted) water as will barely cover it. Let it boil till quite tender, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning to the bottom of the saucepan. Add a little more water if necessary, but be sparing in putting this in- Wlien the cabbage is tender, there ought to be in the pan as much liquor only as will moisten the vegetable. Lay a pound or more of fresh sausages in the centre of the cooked cabbage, cover the saucepan closely to j I keep in the heat and vapour, and stew the sausage gently until done enough. Lift it out, lay it on a round of toast in a hot dish, strain the liquor in the pan over ft and the toast, and serve the cabbage neatly piled on a separate dish. If there arc any remains when the dish is taken from the table, they may be heated again in the same way, and sent to table a second time. Supposing that the cabbage only is left, it may be heated, put on a dish \ th poached eggs, accompanied by an equal number of slices of toasted bacon laid upon it. Time to stew the sausages, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sausages, Baked. As sausages, and especially pork sausages, need to be thoroughly dressed to be wholesome, it is a good plan, when there is time, to bake instead of frying them. Put them in a dripping-tin in a single layer, placing a little fat in the dish with them, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. When they are brown upon one side, turn them upon the other ; if they are freshly made they will not need to be pricked. They should be baked very gently. When done enough, lift them out, drain them, make brown sauce for them, and serve very hot. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Sufiicient, one pound for three persons. Sausages, Boiled. Put the sausages into boiling water, let them boil up once, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let the sausages simmer gently until * done enough. Drain them, and serve upon toast. Time to boil the sausages, ten to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sausages, Bologna. These sausages are genei-ally eaten undressed, and put into large skins. Ox-skins are the most suitable for the purpose. Real Bologna sausages can only be bought. To imitate them, take three pounds each of lean beef and lean poik ; put the meat into hot water, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. Take it up, shred it finely, each kind separately, and mix with it a pound and a half of finely-shred beef suet, llix the meats thoroughly, season the mixture with fine pepper, thj-me, and ground mace, and pound it to a smooth paste. Fill the prepared skins with it, and in filling them put long thin strips of fat bacon in among the meat. Tie the skins in eight-inch lengths; put the sausages in brine for ten days, then smoke them in the usual way. Rub pepper over the outside, and hang them in a cool, dry place till wanted. They will need only to be cut into slices and arranged neatlj on a napkin before being sent to table. Time to smoke the sausages, three or four months. Probable cost, Is. 4d. per pound. Sausages, Tried. IMelt a little butter in a frying-pan, and as soon as it is dissolved put in the sausages in a single layer. Dredge flour over them, and frj- over a ver - gentle fire till they are browned, moving them about, that they may be equally coloured all over. Drain the fat from them by laying them on a hair sieve before the fire for a "minute or two, and serve them on a toast, or roimd a mould of SAU ( 836 ) SAU mashed potatoes. Send sauce to table in a tureen {see Sausages, Sauce for) . As sausages, especially when made of pork, need to be well dressed, care must be taken to heat them very gradually, so that they may not be burnt outside before they are done enough in the centre. When the oven is moderately heated, they may with advantage be baked instead of fried. Time to fry, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, a pound of sausages for thi'ee persons. Sausages, Fried, with Apples. Take half a pound of sausages and six apples. Slice four of the apples into pieces as thick as a fiveehilling piece, and cut the remaining two into quarters. Fry them with the sausages of a fine light brown, and lay the sausages in the centre of the dish and the apples round. Garnish with the quartered apples. Sausages, Home-made. Three or four recipes are here given for making sausage-meat. Tastes vary, and the quantity of seasoning used must vary with them ; but the process of manufacture is always the same. It should be remembered that though scraps and trimmings of meat may be used for making sausages, they should be perfectly sweet and palatable, and should be carefully freed from skin and sinew, also that the sausages will be hghter, though not quite so inviting in appearance, if the meat is coarsely rather than finely shred. No. 1. Shred half a pound of sound beef suet, and one pound of lean beef. Mi.x; thoroughly, and pound the mixture in a mortar. Season with salt, pepper, and spices. If skins are not used, the sausages may, if liked, be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs before being fried or baked. No. 2. Mince finely two pounds of lean pork and one pound of fat bacon. Add a seasoning of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two of powdered sage, with a pinch of grated nutmeg and powdered mace ; finely-shred shallot may be added, or not. Thoroughly mix the seasoning with the meat; three-parts fill the skins with the mixture, and hang them in a cool place till wanted. No. 3. Mince separately three pounds of lean and two of fat pork. Mix them, and add three table- spoonfuls of powdered sage, two ounces and a half of salt, and one ounce of pepper. Blend the ingredients thoroughly. A small nutmeg grated and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace may be added, or not. No. 4. Cut the crumb of a penny loaf into slices, soak it in water till it is soft, then squeeze it dry in a cloth. INIix it thoroughly with two pounds of lean x ork and a pound and a half of fat pork; add pepper, salt, lemon, thyme, powdered sage, and grated nutmeg. Half fill the skins with the mixture, and bake or boil the sausages when wanted. They should be used as soon as possible, as the soaked bread will prevent them keeping. No. 5. Mince separately a pound of beef suet and a pound of lean pork. jMix the ingredients, and pound them thoroughly, and with them two large table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and powdered sage, and bind the mixture together with the yolks of two eggs. No. (\ Take half a pound of lean veal, half a pound of pork, fat and lean together, and half a pound of beef suet. Shred all finely, and mix thoroughly. Add a quarter of a pound of finely-grated crumb of bread, three sage-leaves chopped small, half a small nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and four inches of lemon-rind finely shi-ed. A pinch of marjoi-am and of savory may be added if liked. Put the meat into skins, or form it into cakes, and dress the sausages in the usual way. Probable cost, sausages, 9d. to Is. 3d. per pound, according to the quahty of the meat used. Sausages, Lyons. Take six pounds of lean jiurk iiuiii the chine, three pounds of lean veal frojn the fillet, and three pounds of porkfat. Mince the lean meat finely, pound it in a mortar till smooth, and cut the fat into dice. Mix thoroughly, and season the whole with ten ounces of salt, a quarter of an ounce of salti etre, three or four bruised shallots, half an ounce of ground pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of peppercorns. Leave the mixture for twentyfour hours. Procure some sausage-skins, and carefully examine them to see that they are thoroughly cleansed ; press the meat tightly into them, and fasten the ends securely with string. Lay the sausages in an earthen pan with salt, with a small portion of saltpetre under and over them, and let them remain for a week ; take them out, and dry them in a smoke-house or in a chimney over a wood fire. Boil three or four bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, and a few sageleaves in some wine-lees, if procurable. Dip the sausages into this, tie the ends ynth fresh string, and again dry them. Wrap them in paper, and store in a dry, cool place till wanted. Sausages, Sauce for. Lift the sausages from the x an, and put them upon a sieve before a fire to drain. Pour away all the fat excepting about a table-spoonful, and if the fat in which the sausages were fried is at all burnt, dissolve a httle fresh butter or fat in a clean saucepan. Stir into this as much flour as will make a smooth paste, rub it briskly over the fire until it is brightly browned, moisten gradually with boiling water or boiling stock till it is as thick as cream, add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle, and if necessary a s joonful of browning. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, place the sausages in a dish, and strain the sauce over them. Send mustard to table with them. Time to make the sauce, ten to fifteen minutes. The above ingredients will make sufficient sauce for a pound of sausages. Sausages, Savoury. Take equal quantities of fat and lean pork. Rub the meat well with salt, and a little saltpetre, and pepper, or lay it in brine, and leave it for six days. Take it up, mince it finely, and with it a couple of shallots or a httle onion, and add pepper and allspice to taste. Put it into large skins, tie both ends, cover with muslin, and hang the sausages up in a smoke-house for ten days or a fortnight. Pub ground ginger over the outside, and leave the sausages in a cool place tiU wanted. Boil the sausages or not, according to taste, cut them into thin slices, and serve them cold. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Id. per pound. SAU ( 837 ) SAV Sausages Stewed with Chestnuts. Take one pound of delicate saus,(i;-t'-iiirat, seasoned with salt and cayenne, hut without any herbs. Divide it into small round cakes three-quarters of an inch thick, and fry these in hot fat till they are lightly browned on both sides ; drain them on a sieve. Throw half a hundred fine Spanish chestnuts into boiling water, and let them boil for eight or ten minutes. Dry them, and when nearly cool make a little incision in the outer skin of each nut to keep it from bursting. Roast the nuts, and when they are soft skin them. Pour the fat in which the sausages were fried into a dehcately clean saucepan; then stir a tea- spoonful of flour smoothly into it, and beat the paste over the fire till it is lightly coloured. Add gradually half a pint of good stock, a small bunch of savoury herbs, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne. A glass of wine may be put in or not. Let the sauce boil up once, put in gently the sausages and chestnuts, and simmer all gently together for an hour. Pile the chestnuts in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the sausages round them, and strain the sauce over all. Serve very hot. Probable cost, sausagemeat. Is. per pound. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Sausages, To prepare the Skins for. A hog's or an ox's intestines are used to put sausages into. They are thus prepared. Empty them, cut them in lengths and lay them for three or four days in salt and water, or weak lime-water. Turn them inside out two or three times, and scrape them well. Rinse them well, dry them with a soft cloth, and they will bo ready for use. Sausages, Veal. Take any quantity of lean veal with half its weight in fat pork. Mince the two separately, then mix them, and pound the mixture in a mortar tiU it is quite smooth. Season with salt, pepper, and powdered mace, form it into cakes about threequarters of an inch thick, flour these well, and fry them in plenty of hot fat. Drain them, and serve very hot. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable cost, sausages, Is. Id. per pound. Saute-pan. This is a shallow copper vessel with two handles, used in French cookery to sauter, which is a term of art nearly but not quite equivalent to frying : for in this operation the fillets of meat are frequently turned or tossed over with great celerity as soon as they are affected by the heat; hence the term sauter, "to jump : " it is a mode of frying with very great nicety. IVehsfer and Farkes. Sautes. I- Ude makes the following remark regarding sautes or dishes fried lightly : Mind, you must never let the saute be too much done. These dishes are very difiicult to make in perfection. When thej' are too much done they are not eatable. It is this j oint of perfection in the management of cookery which distinguishes the r ood from the had cook. Savarin Cake. Put one pound of dried and sifted flour into a pan, and make a hollow in the centre. Dissolve half an ounce of German yeast in a small quantity of warm milk, and set the sponge by pouring this into the hollow, and beating into it with the fingers about a quarter of the flour. Sprinkle flour over the batter thus made, put the basin in a warm place, and let the sponge rise slowly to twice its size. Woi-k into it with a spoon or with the right hand a quarter of a pint of warm milk and two eggs, and add gradually threequarters of a pound of butter beaten to a cream, half an ounce of salt dissolved in a little warm water, two ounces of powdered sugar, the eighth of a pint additional milk, and three more eggs. Lastly, add two ounces of candied peel cut small. The additions should be made very gradually, the eggs being put in one at a time, and the preparation being beaten well until it leaves the sides of the bowl easily. Butter the inside of a fluted mould rather thickly, and sprinkle a table-spoonful of blanched and chopped almonds on the butter. Beat the paste up again, and half fiU the mould with it ; let it stand in a warm place till it has risen level with the top of the mould. Tie a broad band of buttered paper round the top of the mould, to keep the paste from running over the sides, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. AVhen done enough, turn it out carefully, run a skewer into several parts of it, and pour over and into it a thick syrup flavoured with cura(,'oa or any other suitable liqueur. Sprinkle powdered sugar over the surface, and send the cake to table wai-m. Time to bake, one hour or more. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the liqueur. Sufiicient or five or six persons. Save-all Pudding. Put any scraps of bread there may bo into a bowl, and over a quarter of a pound of these i our a pint of boiling milk. Let the bread soak till soft, then beat it well with a fork till no lumps remain. Add, whilst beating, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of finely-shred suet, or a slice of sweet butter or di-ii ping, two table-spoonfuls of picked currants, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated, or any other suitable flavouring. Two apples, pared, cored, and quartered, may be added to the pudding or not. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. "When the pudding is set and nicely browned on the surface it is done enough. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Saveloy. Under this name we have a kind of sausage common fii the shops of the metropolis. The saveloy difters from the ordinary pork sausage only in its being made of young salted pork ; it is highly seasoned, and a little saltpetre is added to give the meat a red coloiu". Saveloys. Take a piece of tender pork, I free from skin and gristle, and weighing about two pounds. Salt it with common salt and a little I saltpetre, \ len it has lain in the salt two or I three days, mince it finely, and season with a tea-spoonful of pepper and four sage-leaves I chopped small. Mix it well with the third of a pound of bread-crumbs. Put the mixture into the skins, tie the ends securely, and bake or I boil the saveloys gently until done enough. SAV ( 838 ) SAV Serve hot or cold. Time to dress, half an hour. Probable cost, Id. or '2d. each. SavOliry Cake. Take two large tablespoonfuls of tine tiour, and mix them smoothly with four eggs, adding enough milk to make the preparation of the consistency of cream. Stir well, and add salt to taste and some finelyminced chives. Butter a shallow tin or dish, and bake till the cake is of a fine yellow. Savoury Custard for Invalids. Mix a dessert-spoonful of corn-flour to a smooth paste with a little cold beef-tea, and then add gradually as much more beef -tea as will make the quantity up to half a pint. Stir the preparation over the tire till it begins to thicken, pomit out, and serve. If preferred, this custard may be made with any good broth instead of beef-tea. Time, five or six minutes to stir the custard over the fire. Suflicient for one person. Savoury Pie. Butter a pie-dish very thickly, and cover the bottom with a layer of chopped mushi-ooms. Place upon these two oimces of tapioca which have been soaked for ten minutes in a quarter of a pint of water, and sprinkle over it a moderate-sized onion and two or three sage-leaves chopped small. Add three hard-boiled eggs, also chopped small, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Lay two ounces or more of butter broken into little pieces here and there on the surface, cover the dish with pastry, and bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is done the pie will be done enough. Savoury Rice. Put half a pound of rice into a.saucepan with a slice of butter or dripping, a seasoning of salt and spice, and three pints of water. Simmer it gently till it is tender, drain it, pile it upon a hot dish, cover the surface with a layer of grated Chesliire cheese, and serve. Or boil half a pound of rice in three pints of water till tender. Season with pepper and salt, add a slice of dripping and two or three onions chopped small, stir the rice over the fire till the onions are tender, and serve in a hot dish. Or break three pounds of meat-bones into small pieces. Put these into a large stewpan, and pour over them five quarts of cold water. Bring the liquor gradually to the boil, skim carefully, draw the saucepan to the side, let its contents simmer gently for four hours, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. A small bunch of savoury herbs may be stewed with the stock for the last hour. Slice an onion, and cut up a quarter of a pound of vegetables, composed of equal portions of carrots, turnips, celery, &c. Fry these in butter, stirring them briskly over the fire till the onions begin to turn yellow, sprinkle over them a quarter of a poimd of fine oatmeal, and pour the stock from the bones upon them. Add two ounces of soaked rice, boil all gently together till this is tender. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Time, five hours. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Savoury Spirit, for Imparting a flavour of Herbs to Soups, Sauces, &C. Take one ounce each of dried lemonthjTne, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and winter savory. Mix them, and put them into a stone jar with a quarter of an ounce of grated lemon rind, a quarter of an ounce of minced shallot, and two drachms of bruised celery-seed. Pour over them a quart of fine proof spirit of any kind, and let them infuse for ten days. Strain the liquor, bottle closely, and store for use. If liked, vinegar can be used instead of spirit, but it will not draw out the flavour of the herbs so weU. Savoury Spirit for Imparting a flavour of Spice to Soups, Sauces, &C. Mix thoroughly two ounces of powdered black pepper with one ounce of powdered allspice and half an ounce of grated nutmeg. Put the powdered mixture into a jar, and pour over it a quart of fine proof spirit. Let it infuse for ten days, then strain oft' the liquor, bottle closely, and store for use. If preferred, the powder may be prepared as follows : Pound in a mortar a quarter of an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an ounce of gi-atod nutmeg, two drachms of cayenne pepper, half an ounce of ground black i epper, half an ounce of grated lemon-rind, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, an ounce of drj- salt, and half an ounce of French mustard. Proceed as before. Savoury Toasts. Savomy toasts may be served as relishes at breakfast or luncheon, or they may fiU. a corner at the dinner-table. They may be varied at pleasure, and if agreeably flavoured, will constitute aj petising trifles at small expense. To prepare them, cut some slices of crumb of bread half an inch thick, toast them, butter thickly, and spread upon them any highly-seasoned savoury mixture. Put them into the oven to make them hot, and serve. Any cold ragoilt or stewed vegetables heated in thick sauce, grated ham or tongue beaten up over the fire with egg and cream till thick, truffles or mushrooms stewed in butter, seasoned, and minced, or any similar preparation, may be used to spread upon the toasts. Anchovies pounded may be used in this way also. They are prepared as follows: Wash and bone the anchovies, mince finely, and pound them to paste in a moitar with a little piece of butter and a moderate quantity of cayenne. Work the whole to a smooth paste, spread it upon the buttered toast, and put it into a Dutch oven till it is quite hot. Savoy Biscuits. Take twelve parts of sugar, seven parts of flour, and twelve paits of eggs, and add ground lemon-rind by way of flavouring. Bake in the usual way, and after the biscuits have been a few minutes in the oven grate a little sugar over the top of them. . Savoy Biscuits, Cold. Take a little more than half a pound of very fine diy flour, one pound of very dry pounded sugar, and fourteen or fifteen eggs, very fresh ; if the eggs are large, fourteen are sufficient. Itasp over the sugar the peel of two lemons or oranges ; put that sugar to dry ; then have two vessels, one for the whites and one for the yolks ; break the eggs one by one, and be particular in smelling them, as one bad one will spoil all ; put the dry sugar with the yolks, and work them together with two new wooden spoons, put also the sugar of lemon ; next whip the whites very SAV ( 839 ) SAV firm, and, to prevent them tuminc;, put a small pinch of ciilcincd alum in powder; when the whites are very firm, take half to mix with the yolks ; then put all together, put the flour into a hair sieve, and sift it over the eggs; mix gently with the whites, then butter a mould, and powder it over with fine sugar ; put the biscuit into the mould a little at a time. Put some ashes on a baking-dish, and put the mould over this in the oven; the heat must be moderate. About one hour is requisite to bake this biscuit, and it must not be moved till it is quite done. Savoy Biscuits, Hot. Take a dozen fresh eggs, break them into a vessel, which is to be put into another containing some water nearly boiling. With these eggs mix a pound of superfine pounded sugar. Beat them well in the vessel which stands in the hot water. When you perceive that the eggs are no longer soft, put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a silk sieve not very closely woven ; mix the flour well with the eggs, which is done by shaking the sieve, then add about two spoonfuls of orange-flower water. If you only use lemon, put in a spoonful of cold water. Rub a mould over with butter ; powder some sugar round, fiU that mould with the preparation, powder some sugar over it, and bake in an oven moderately hot. Ascertain with a little skewer whether the middle part is sufficiently baked before you take it out of the oven. If the biscuit is not very large, it will be done in three-quarters of an hour. Biscuits, like other pastries of a large size, I'equire the oven not to be too hot, and therefore they must be kept in a longer time. M. Ude. Savoy Biscuits, or Iiadies' Fingers. These biscuits are used for making a number of fancj' dishes. They contain a good deal of nourishment, and are excellent for the young and weakly when soaked in beef-tea or milk. To make them, break six eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the yolks well, and whilst beating strew in six ounces of powdered and sifted sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a lemon before being broken. Beat the mixture till smooth, and add gradually three-quarters of a pound of dry flour and the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid froth. Bake the biscuits in fluted tins sold for the purpose, lined \vith buttered paper ; or, if these are not at hand, draw the paste in straight lines upon thick paper, or make little cases with buttered writing-paper. The biscuits should be made in the shape of a finger, three-quarters of an inch wide, and about four inches long. Bake in a quick oven. When putting the biscuits away, lay them in couples back to back. If preferred, a tea-spoonful of rose or orange-flower water may be used instead of lemon-juice to flavour the biscuits. Time to bake, eight minutes. Probable cost, Is. 8d. per pound. Or whisk twelve eggs thoroughly with three table-spoonfuls of water, and add very gradually one pound of powdered and sifted sugar. Beat the mixture till it is as smooth and thick as cream, then stir into it one pound of dried and .sifted flour. Mould it into long cakes, and bake in a slow oven. Savoy Cabbage. The savoy is a largo close-hearted cabbage, seasonable in winter. It may be dressed according to the instructions already given for boiling cabbages. A savoy cabbage will need to boil thirty minutes or more, according to is size. Savoy Cabbage (a la Creme). Slice a savoy into thin strips, and in doing so remove the stalk entirely. Wash and drain it, and boil it in the usual way tUl tender. Turn it into a colander, press the water from it, and afterwards mince it slightly. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a clean saucepan, put in thesavoy, season with pepper and salt, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes till it is di-y. Dredge a table-spoonful of floirr over it, and add very gradually a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Serve very hot. Time, thirty to forty minutes to boil the savoy. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Sufficient, a moderate-sized savoy I for foul- persons. I Savoy Cabbage, Stewed. Take one j moderate-sized savoy or two cabbages. Cut it into thin slices as if it were going to be j pickled, and place it in a stewpan in which a j slice of fresh butter has been already dissolved. ; Let it simmer gently for ttvo hours. Take up j the savoy, thicken the quantity of liquor which has run from it with flour, add pepper and j salt, and serve very hot. A savoy or cabbage I prepared in this way is much suj)erior to one i that is plainly boiled. Time to stew, two I hours. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Sufficient, one moderate-sized savoy for three or four persons. Savoy Cake. Weigh seven large fresh eggs, and take their weight in dried floui-, and a little more than half their weight in sifted sugar. Break the eggs, and separate the yolks from the whites. Beat the foi-mer in a bowl, and add the sugar to them very gradually, together with a little gi-ated lemon-rind, " a spoonful of orange-flower or rose-water, or any other suitable flavouring. Add the flour a little at a time, and continue to beat the mixture for twenty minutes. Butter a mould, sprinkle powdered sjigar upon the butter, and shake off all that will not adhere. Tie a strip of buttered paper round the top of the mould to keep the preparation from rolling down the sides whilst it is being baked. Pour in the cake, and threeparts fill the mould with it. When done enough let it stand a few minutes, then shake it well to loosen it, and turn it out carefully. This cake is very good cut into slices, and made into jam sandwiches. Time to bake, an hourand a quarter or a little more. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Savoy Cakes. Take one pound of fine sifted sugar, add the yolks of ten eggs- keeping the whites in a separate pan and set the eggs and sugar, if in summer, in cold water ; if there is any ice, set the pan upon it, as it will enable the eggs to be beaten finer ; then beat the yolks and sugar well with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, and put in the grated rind of a lemon. Beat up the whites with a whisk until they become quite stiff and white as snow. Stir them into the batter by degrees, then add three SAV (840) SAX quarters of a pound of well-dried flour. Put all in a mould in a slack oven to bake. Savoy Pudding. Rub six ounces of stale savoy cake to crumbs, and pour upon these a quarter of a pint of boiling milk. Let them soak for half an hour, then beat the mixture with a fork till smooth, and add four ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of finely-shred candied peel, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Beat the mixture for some minutes, put it into a cool place for an hour, and beat it up again. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a brisk oven. \\Tiisk the whites of the eggs till firm, sweeten them, and flavour them pleasantly. _ Put them on the pudding, and place this in the oven a few minutes longer. Vllen the eggs are set the pudding is ready for serving. Time to bake the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 9d. Suflicient for four or five persons. Savoy Soup. Boil a moderate-sized savoy in the usual way till tender. Put it into a colander, and press the water from it, then turn it into a clean stewpan, pour over it as much beef, veal, or chicken broth as will thoroughly cover it, place the lid on the stewpan, and let its contents simmer gently for an hour. Dissolve four ounces of sweet butter in- a separate saucepan, and stir as much flour into this as will make a smooth paste. Beat the mixture briskly over the fire until it is lightly coloured without being at aU burnt, slice two onions into it, and fry them lightly. Moisten the paste with a little of the boiling soup, add it gradually to the rest, and boil the whole a few minutes longer. Skim the soup carefully, and mix with it a quart of boiling milk, if liked, a few crackers may be soaked in the milk before it is added to the soup. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 9d. per quart. Suflicient for eight or ten persons. Savoy Sponge. Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, and with them four ounces of powdered sugar and a small pinch of salt. Stir in two ounces of corn-flour, and beat the mixture again till it is quite smooth. Add the whites of the eggs whisked to froth ; pour the preparation into a buttered mould, the inside of which has been lightly covered with powdered sugar. Flavour the cake with any suitable flavouring, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, turn it out carefully. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Savoy, Varieties of. The savoy is distinguished from the other close or hearted cabbages by its wrinkled leaves, and from the Brussels sprouts by its cabbaging in large full heads. The latter is considered a sub-variety. The varieties of savoy are the large green; the chou le plus gros, tardif des vertits, or German savoy, a superior variety, very distinct from the common large green ; the yellow ; the dwarf ; and the globe. Loudon gives the following estimate of the value of the difi:erent sorts : "The green savoy is the least hardy, and must be used first. The London market is generally supplied with it through the month of November, and until the plants are injured by frost. The dwarf savoy is hardier than the preceding, bearing well the attack of the first winter frosts, by which the delicacy of its flavour is materially improved; and from its small size it is better adapted to the tables of private families. When the whole class is cultivated, this must be considered the second soit in succession. The best plants grow close to the ground, not exceeding one foot in height. The yellow savoy, by its hardiness, enables us to continue the use of savoys till mid-winter. It does not yield to any of the others in goodness, and by many persons it is preferred, being considered as much sweeter than any other kind." Savoys, Dry. Whisk the whites of fifteen eggs to a firm froth, and sprinkle a pound of powdered sugar into this with the left hand, at the same time beating it lightly with the right. Add eight ounces of dried flour, and flavour the preparation with grated lemon-rind or orange-flower water. Pour the mixture into a shallow paper case, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough let the biscuit cool, and with a sharp knife cut it into thin slices. Dry these in a screen or in a cool oven till they are lightly browned, then put them aside till wanted. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Saxon Pudding. According to high authority this is one of the best puddings of Germany. BoU a gill of milk, put into a stewpan half a pound of flour. Gradually dilute the flour with the milk, so as to obtain a fine smooth paste. Add four ounces of butter and salt to taste. Place the saucepan on a moderate fire, stir the preparation till it begins to thicken, then take it off the fire, but continue still working it. When the paste is smooth, place it again on the fire, working it still, and gradually introduce into it the yolks of ten eggs, four ounces of oranged sugar, four ounces of butter, and a little salt. When the preparation is frothy, introduce seven or eight whipped whites of eggs. Pour the preparation into a dome or a cylinder mould which has been buttered and glazed with sugar and potato-flour. Set the mould in a stewpan with boiling water reaching to half its height. Bake in a slack oven for forty minutes. Saxon Salad (sometimes called Sardonic Salad). Take two Dutch herrings, soak them in water, boil, cut them first into thin slices and then into narrow strips. Cut up cold meat in the same way, also some soirr juicy apples, and a little pickled beetroot. Mix well, and season with pepper and a small onion minced very fine. Moisten the salad with oil, vinegar, and milk or cream in equal parts. Saxony Sauce (a German recipe) . Place a piece of butter in a casserole, together with a table-spoonful of flour, to thicken till almost baked. Then add a sufficient quantity of water in which fish was boiled, a shallot minced, some pale vinegar, a little white wine, and a good tea-spoonful of mustard. Stir these ingredients until the preparation boils weU. Before sending to table, add some very thin slices of lemon and a piece of cold butter to make the sauce oilv. Plate IX, I.BouiLLi Croquets of Chopped Meat, & 2. Mutton Cutlets, (Garnished! 3. Capons a la Godard (Garnished) 4, Ham (GARNISHED) 5 , Tongue (Garnished.) SCA (841 ) SCH Scad. This fish, sometimes called the horsc-mackcrcl, is common on tho southwestern shores of England, but is comparatively rare in the north. Sometimes it appears in immense shoals, pursuing the fry of lieri-ings, or similar prey," and the multitudes have sometimes hcen so numerous and so crowdi d together that overloaded nets have been torn in pieces : the fish might have been lifted out of the sea in buckctfuls. The flavour of the scad is not unlike that of the mackerel. When fresh, it is not much liked, but it is often salted, and in that state is in demand as an article of food. Scald Cream. Pi'ovincially, cream raised by heat, or clouted creani. Scalloped Fish.. The remains of any description of dressed fish and shell-fish may bo served in this way : mackerel and herrings are the least suitable for the purpose. Take the skin and bone from the fish, and tear tho flesh into flakes. INIix with it a third of its weight in finely-grated bread-crumbs, or in weli-mashed potatoes, and season the mixture rather highly with salt, cayenne, and grated jiutmeg. Sloisten slightly with the remains of sauce served with the fish, or, lacking this, witli a little clarified butter. Butter some scallop shells, or some small shallow dishes, and line the inside with grated bread-crumbs. Put in the mixture, covei- the surface with bread-crumbs, lay little pieces of butter here and there on the top, and bake in a well-heated oven or in a Dutch oven before the fire until the surface is brightly browned ; serve very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Scallops. The scallop is a shell-fish somewhat larger than an oyster, and somewhat resembling it in shape. It is something like a crab in taste. It may be served in two or three ways, and is generally highly esteemed where it is known. The scallop may enter appropriately into any fish pie, though it should be boiled previously. It is best when scalloped. The deep shells of the scallop should be carefully preserved after they are used, and will be useful when it is wished to " scallop " the remains of dressed fish of any kind. Scallops, Scalloped. Procure the scallops when aUve and as fresh as possible. Open them, loosen them from the shell, trim away the beards, and preserve the white, black, and orange-coloured parts of the fish. Wash them in two or three waters, and drain them. Scour and rinse the deeper shells, dry them, and butter thickly. ]\Iince the scallops, and mix with them a third of their bulk in gi-ated bread-crumbs, a liljcral allowance of pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. A large table-spoonful of chopped parsley will be sufficient for a dozen scallops. Si rinklo a few bread-crumbs over the inside of the shell, and shake off those that do nci, adhere. Put in the minced fish, cover the surface with breadcrumbs, and lay little pieces of butter here and there on the top. Put the shells in a well-heated oven or in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and let them remain until the contents are heated 57 throughout and brown on the surface. Serve the scallops very hot in the shells on a neatlyfolded napkin. A little vinegar should be sent to table with them, and four shells will be required for every dozen scallops. The shells should be carefully preserved, and may be used again and again for scalloped fish of any kind. Time to bake the scallops, half an hour. Probable cost, when plentiful, Is. per dozen. Sufficient, one dozen for four persons. Scallops, Stewed. Procure the seaUops alive and quite fresh. Open the shell like an oyster, loosen the fish, and trim away the beard. Wash the scallops in two or three waters, then put them into a saucepan, pour over them as much water as will cover them, and boil them gently till tender. Take them up, thicken the Squor with flour and butter, and season it with pepper, salt, and vinegar : serve the fish on a hot dish with a little of the sauce poured over. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, when plentiful. Is. per dozen. Sufficient, a dozen for three or four persons. Scaltheen. In Ireland, before the days of Father Matthew, there used to be a favourite beverage, termed scaltheen, made by brewing whisky and butter together. Few could concoct it properly, for if the whisky and butter were done too much or too little the compound had a harsh or burnt taste, very disagreeable, and totally different from the soft creamy flavour required. Schabzeiger Cheese. This is a German cheese flavoured by the addition of the plant Imown in this country as melilot. It finds admirers in England. Schodoh Pudding. The foUowing recipe for German pudding with schodoh (chaudeau) is given by a trustworthy authority : ? Take two quarts of grated bread-crumbs, pour over them as much cream as will wet them ; beat six ounces of butter in a deep pan to cream, to which add six eggs, one at a time every five minutes ; to this add four ounces of sugar, two ounces of almonds blanched and chopped fine, two ounces of preserved lemon, also chopped, four ounces of currants, and four ounces of stoned raisins, and lastly, the breadcrumbs ; beat and mix all well together ; butter a pudding-cloth or shape, strew it with flour, and boil it two hours over a moderate fire. A quarter of an hour before it is wanted, take the pudding oft" the fire. In the meantime, l repare the schodoh as follows : Have ready the yolks of twelve eggs beat up, to which add six spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of Austrian wine ; set it on the fire, and beat it with a v.-hisk till the whole thickens and forms a fine bubbling sauce. AMaen it has reached this point, remove it, as by remaining longer it will curdle, to prevent which it is best to put the saucepan into cold water and keep beating the preparation all the time ; lift the pudding out, put it into a deep dish, and pour the schodoh over it. The pudding may be made by substituting six ounces of marrow chopped fine instead of butter. The schodoh may also be poured into cups, and eaten separately. SCH (842) SCO Schpeischlitz, German. This dish may he made either sweet or savoury. If preferred sweet, the pepper and parsley in the following recipe may be omitted. Put threequarters of a pint of milk into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and a Little pepper and salt. When the milk lises in the pan, stir quickly into it six ounces of maize flour, and continue stirring over the fire until it foi-ms a smooth compact mass, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Remove it from the fire, and work gradually into it a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and three fresh eggs. Mould the forcemeat into the form of quenelles with two tea-spoons which have been dipped into hot water, throw the quenelles into boihng milk slightly salted, and poach them until the batter is set. Drain them, cover with fiied crumbs, and serve immediately. Send jam to table with sweet schpeischlitz, and grated gruyere or parmesan with savoury schpeischlitz. Time to poach the schpeischlitz, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Scones. Put as much barley-meal as will be required into a bowl, add a pinch of salt, and stir in cold water to make a stiff paste. Roll this out into round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and bake on a girdle. Split the cakes open, butter them well, and serve hot. A little butter may be rubbed into the meal if liked. Richer scones may be made by dissolving an ounce of fresh butter in a pint of hot "milk, and stirring this into as much flour as will make a stiff dough. When it is not convenient to bake the scones on a girdle, a thick frying-pan may be used instead. Time to bake the scones, about four minutes. Scones, Soda. Dissolve haK a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda and five ounces of fresh butter or lard in a quarter of a pint of warm water or milk: put ten ounces of flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt, and stir in the liquor to make a stiff dough. Roll this out into a round cake a quarter of an inch thick, mark this into eight portions, and bake on a gu'dle or in a thick frying-pan. Split the scones, butter them well, and serve very hot. Time, to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Score, To. To score fish or vegetabl&s is to make incisions on them with a sharp knife, thus facilitating the cooking. Scorzonera. The roots of this plant are sugary and weU flavoured ; they may be boiled and served like parsnips, or treated like salsify. The coarse outer rind must be scraped off, and the roots soaked in cold water for a few hours to extract the bitter flavour. Scotch Barley Broth. Take a teacupful of pearl barley and one gallon of water. Boil gently for half an hour, then add three pounds of lean beef or neck of mutton, some turnips and carrots cut small, a pint of green peas, if in season, and some onions. Let the -whole boil gently for two hours longer in a close soup-kettle, when the broth will be fit for Scotch Brose. This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with the hquor in which meat has been boiled. Put half a pint of oatmeal into a porringer, with a little salt, if there be not enough in the broth, of which add as much as will mix it to the consistence of hasty-pudding or a little thicker. Lastly, take some of the fat that swims on the broth, put it on the crowdie, and cat in the same way as hasty-pudding. Food Journal. Scotch Broth. Early in the morning put a few ounces of pearl or Scotch barley into the quantity of water you design for broth, and after the barley has become soft, put in a knuckle of veal, a few pounds of lean beef, the scrag end of a neck of mutton, and a small piece of salt beef. At the proper time, add aU kinds of pot vegetables, such as carrots, onions, turnips, celery, and peas, if in season. When sufiiciently stewed, serve up all together, seasoning with salt if the salt beef has been omitted. Scotch Broth (M. Ude's recipe). Take some of the worst cutlets of the neck, trim them, but not too finely; put them by, and with the trimmings make the soup in the following manner : Put into a stewpan the mutton trimmings, some scrag ditto, and a knuckle of veal ; moisten this with good boiling broth; then season the broth with a bunch of celery, leeks, parsley, one large onion with two cloves, a few slices of txirnip cut into dice, and one or two can-ots, also cut in dice. Let this broth boil gently three hours ; season it with salt, and skim off the fat. When it becomes of a good flavour, drain it over the chops, which you must put in a small stewpan, large enough, however, to contain the soup. Have some barley that has been boiled a long time ; wash it well, and piit it with the turnips and carrots and chops to boil one hour. Skim again before sending to table. No bread is used with this soup. Celery cut in dice with the turnips gives additional flavour; you can sometimes add, just at dinner-time, a little parsley chopped very fine just as you serve up. Scotch Cake. Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to cream, add a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, one pound of dried flour, one table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a quarter of a pint of milk. RoU out the dough to the thickness of the third of an inch, cut it into cakes, and bake these in a well-heated oven. When the cakes are lightly and equally coloured they are done enough. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. lOd. for this quantity. Scotch Dishes. Recipes for the various national dishes of Scotland will be found under their respective headings. On this and the succeeding page, however, we have given a few additional examples of Caledonian cookery. Scotch Kale. Like all other greens, Scotch kale should be procured as fresh as possible. Cut away the outer and decayed leaves and the stalks, wash the kale with scrupulous care, and drain it. Put it into SCO (843 ) SCO boiling water slightly salted, and lot it boO. quickly until done enough. Take it up, drain it thoroughly, and servo very hot. Whilst the kale is boiling, the saucepan should be left uncovered. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Trobable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Scotch Oatmeal Brose. Brose is a Scotch food made from oatmeal, and is perhaps the food most quickly cooked of any used by civilised men. The process is as follows : Put a handful of oatmeal into a good-sized basin, add a large pinch of salt, pour about a pint of boiling water over it, stir with the handle of a spoon, when the meal will form little lumps. Do not break the lumps, but pom- in half a pint of either sweet milk or buttermilk, and the cooking will be complete. Eat immediately after cooking. Some add a piece of butter, but the brose is more wholesome without it ; indeed, all preparations of oatmeal are more wholesome without the addition of any fatty substance, the oatmeal having quite enough of the heat-producing element in itself. This is a common breakfast among Scotch ploughmen in some districts. It cannot be recommended to sedentary persons. Scotch Oatmeal Cakes. For oaten cakes, take some meal, mix with it a little salt and melted suet and sufficient water to work it I into a thick dough, roll out into a cake as thin as possible, divide into quarters, and spread out on the "girdle" (a flat circular piece of iron about eighteen inches in diameter, suspended over the fire), and bake each side in turn. The cakes must then be toasted before the fire till they are cui-led and crisp. They must be crisp and brittle to be palatable. Scotch Oatm.eal Cakes (another way). Oat-cake, or bannocks, should be made from meal as fine as can be got, and as newly ground as possible. The meal should be saturated with lukewarm water, and as much salt as can be lifted between the finger and thumb for each cake ; stir about well, and squeeze through the fingers, adding dry meal until the mass is of the consistency of dough (all this should be done in a basin) ; then spread some dry meal on the " bake-board," flatten the dough with the knuckles of both hands until nearly the size wanted ; smooth and finish with a rollingpin. Crimp with the thumb all round the edge, but do not cut it in any way. It is now j ready for the girdle. Now for the "firing," which is of as much importance as the " baking." The fire must be clear, and free from smoke ; as a precaution, thi-ow some salt on. The girdle should be of maUe ble iron, and a quarter of an inch thick, with a bow handle. Heat tiU salt crackles on it, brush it clean, and put on the bannock. Give it an occasional turn while on its fiat, so that it may be equally done. Take it oH with the spurtle an instrument made of thin flat iron, shaped like a heart, with a handle to see if well bro vned. If the bannocks are to be "scoudered" do them on the other side the same way ; but they are much better to have the other side done before the fire on the toaster, this will give them a beautiful curl, and make them nice and crisp. Then you will have real Scotch oatmeal bannocks. Scotch Oatmeal Cakes (another way). The following directions are given by one writer as the result of some experience and study : 1. Let the oatmeal be of medium size in the gi-ain. If coarse oatmeal be used, the cakes will not bear kneading out to the proper thinness, but will break in pieces ; if the finest be used, the cakes wiU be tough, not crisp, as they ought to be. 2. Use cold water only in making the dough. If hot or lukewarm water be used, the cakes will also be tough, and quite wanting in the peculiar sweetness that cakes made with cold water have. The use of fine oatmeal and hot water certainly makes the work easier to the person making the cakes, and also produces a better-looking article, but just as surely makes the cakes much less pleasant to eat. 3. Use no fat, nor carbonate of soda, nor anything but oatmeal, cold water, and just as much salt as is used ia the making of bread from flour. Fat and carbonate of soda both cause the cakes to be shorter; but both, especially the former, have a great tendency to produce heartburn and other unpleasant results in the eater. Cakes properly made do not require any such devices to make them very pleasant eatiag. 4. Knead up the dough as quickly as possible, and make no more dough at a time than is enough for one cake, which cut into three or four sections for convenience of handling. If the dough is made in a lump for a number of cakes, those that arc baked last will not be so crisp and sweet as the first baked. The size of the cake wiU be determined by the diameter of the hot-plate on gii'dle on which it is to be baked, but cakes of small diameter are more easily made by persons unaccustomed to the work. 5. Make the cakes thin as little over an eighth of an inch as possible. If rolled out thicker than that they will not have the nice crisjDness that a good oat-cake always has. G. Bake the one side on the hot-plate over the fire just as much as wiU serve to stiffen the cake sufficiently to bear its own weight when set on edge in the toaster before the fire. The more the baking is done before the fire the better. Lastly, do not eat them hot, and keep them until used in a perfectly dry and, if possible, rather warm place. Scotch Oatmeal Porridge. Oatmeal porridge is made of oatmeal, water, and salt only ; no sweet milk, buttermilk, nor butter beiug used in the preparation of the food, although all of these articles may be used as relishes with it. It is best made from meal of medium coarseness. The water must be boiling ? when the meal is stii-red in, and it must be stirred in carefully and gradually, and not thrown in all at once, and the stirring must be continued during the time of boiling, which should not be less than fifteen minutes. Many persons like it boiled longer. If longer boUed, the grain of the meal gets softer, and of course the porridge gets thicker. Porridge is more palatable when a plate or other flat dish is used for it than when it is put into a bowl or basin. When a plate is used the moisture SCO (844) SEA evaporates more quickly and equably than it does from a bowl, and the porridge can be eaten sooner after cooking, and the sooner it is ? ten the pleasanter it tastes. Scotch Soup. Take four pounds of the shin of beef or knuckle of veal. Put it into a stewpan, pour over it as much cold water as will cover it, add four ounces of pearl barley, and let all simmer gently together for an hour. Kemove the scum carefully as it rises, and when no more appears, throw in a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, two onions, two large turnips cut into dice, and a little pepper and salt. Add gradually another quart of water, and simmer the soup again until the vegetables are tender. Take up the meat, and serve it on a sepai-ate dish. Serve the soup without straining and as hot as possible. A fowl is occasionally stewed in the soup, and served with it. Time, about two and a half hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Scrap. Scraps are the little pieces of leaf or flead left undissolved when the inner fat of a pig is melted down for lard. If carefully prepared, these pieces may be used for making common cakes for nursery use ; if burnt they are good for nothing. The best way of melting the fat is to cut it up and put it in a jar, and then place the jar in a saucej an of boiling water, which should be kept boiling imtil the fat is dissolved. In country places scraps are utilised by economical housekeepers, and served with baked potatoes and mustard sauce as a relish for breakfast or supper. Scrap Cakes. Take the scraps which remain after melting down a pound of leaf or flead. Put these into a bowl, slice them, and rub them into three-quarters of a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, four ounces of picked and di-ied currants, two table-si oonfuls of moist sugar, half an ounce of candied peel finely minced, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and moisten them with as much cold water as will make a light paste. Roll this out, stamp it into round cakes, and bake these in a quick oven. A spoonful of baking-powder may be added or not. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the scraps, 6d. Screw, Bottle-jaek and {see Bottle-jack and Screw). Scurvy Grass. This is found wild in some marshy districts of our country, but probably it was first introduced into our gardens from Holland, where it grows very plentifully. The leaves of this plant are exceedingly pungent, therefore the best way of eating them is between bread and butter, as by this means they are rendered less offensive to the palate, and their whole virtues, which are very considerable, are taken into the stomach. Sea Bass. Bass is a name given to several kinds of fish, all of which are excellent for food. Sometimes a kind of perch is thus named. In North America the name denotes a striped fish of good size, and which often weighs as much as fifteen pounds ; while the sea bass is a striped fish with a large head, which grows to two or three pounds weight, and which is never found in fresh water. All these varieties taste well, and may either be boiled or fried like other fish. Sea Beet. The sea beet is a plant growing on many parts of our coasts. It belongs to the same natui-al family as the spinach, and is probably the original form of the cultivated beet and mangold- wurzel. The leaves are large, and when boiled resemble spinach in flavour. The plant grows natui-ally on chalk, but is much improved by being grown in gardenground. If planted in rich soil the leaves are finer, and the fiavour is scarcely distinguishable from that of spinach. A regular supply can also be obtained xmtil late in the season by gathering the leaves in succession as they grow. In many parts of Ireland they are colleeted by the poor, and eaten as food. Sea Bindweed. The sea bindweed is common on our sea coasts, where the natives often gather the young shoots, and pickle them in the same way as samphire. Before being pickled they have a salt, bitterish taste. Sea Bream. This fish, which grows to the length of sixteen to twenty inches, though handsome in ajjpearance, is not very highljesteomed. It is best when boiled. {See Bkeam.) SEA BREAM. Sea Dragon {Vires). The sea dragon is a fish seldom eaten in England, but in France it is often sent to table. It is broiled, and served up with butter of anchovies, maitre d'hotel sauce, or proven ale sauce. Towards the gills, it should be observed, there is a venomous bone. Sea Holly. This is a plant found upon the sea coasts of many parts of England. It is a perennial, with a long, tough, creeping root, which sends forth se ?cral roundish, bluish prickly leaves, standing on long footstalks, and mostly lodged on the ground. The roots have a pleasant, sweetish taste, mixed with a sHght degree of warmth and acrimony. They are cfindied and eaten for disorders of the limgs. SEA ( 845 ) SEA Sea Kale. Sea kale is a plant somewhat resembling asparagus, and it is thus named hecause it is found in its wild state in districts near the sea. It varies in price, according as it is plentiful or otherwise. It is very wholesome, and easily digested, and is generally highly esteemed: notwithstanding this, its introduction to public notice was a matter of difficulty. Its cultivation and that very restricted and local dates from little more than a hundred years ago, though from time immemorial the inhabitants of various parts of the coast have been in the habit of searching for it when blanched by the drifted sand, and cutting off the white shoots close to the crown of the plant. {See Sea Kale, History of.) It is the blanching process which makes sea kale so delicate. Unblanched it is worthless. Persons ignorant of the proper mode of doing this by earthing up the plants and covering them with pots, when they came into possession of gardens where it had been planted, have been known to root it up, and throw it away, because thej' tasted only its full-grown leaves, and found them unpalatable. It is the action of light which imparts its strong and bitter taste to sea kale, as well as its glaucousgreen and reddish-purple colouring. Consequently, sea kale after it is cut should be kept in a dark place till wanted. If exposed in an open situation, it will in two or three days acquire a decided tinge, which injures both its appearance and flavour. Sea kale is amongst the earliest of vegetables. It may frequently be procured in January, and is in full season from February to June. Sea Kale {see also Kale, Sea). Sea Kale, Boiled. When fresh and delicately cooked, sea kale resembles and will serve as a substitute for asparagus. Carefully wash and brush the sea kale to remove the sand and grit, cut out the black part of the roots, and tie the shoots in small bundles. Throw these into plenty of boiling water slightly salted, and keep them boiling quickly until tender. Take them up, drain them, imtie the bunches, and serve the kale on toast, with all the heads in one direction, and with plain melted butter or white sauce poured over it, or, if preferred, without the toast, and dry. If required to be served on toast, the latter may be soaked in the water in which the kale was cooked, that is provided the liquor remains colourless ; otherwise it will impart a bitter taste to the toast. Time the better the kale is, the quicker it wiU be done ; if young and fresh, it will be done enough in from twenty to thirty minutes ; if stale and discoloured, it will need from forty to fifty minutes. If there is any suspicion that the kale is stale, the water should be poured off when it is half done, and fresh water substituted. Probable cost when plentiful, lOd. to Is. per basket. Sufficient, twelve heads for three or four persons. Sea Kale, Choosing of. Sea kale should be dressed as soon as possible after it is cut. When fresh, it is white in colour and crisp. If it has acquired a dark tinge, and is hmp to the touch, it is stale and comparatively worthless. After it is purchased it shoiild be kept covered up, and in a dark place, till i wanted. I Sea Kale, Cultivation of . The follow- j ing are Mr. Loudon's observations on the iiseof sea-kale : " The young spring shoots and the stalks of the unfolding leaves, blanched by rising through the natural ground in a wild state, or by earthing up in gardens, are the parts used ; and when boiled and dressed like asparagus are not inferior to that vegetable. They form also an excellent ingredient in soups. Sometimes the ribs of the large leaves are peeled and dressed as asparagus, after the plant has ceased to send up young growths. By forcing, sea-kale may be had in perfection from November tiU IMay, a period including aU the dead months of the year. It is remarked by Nicol, that vegetables are seldom improved I by forcing, but that sea-kale forms an exception, ! the forced shoots produced at mid-winter being more crisp and delicate in flavour than those I produced in the natxiral way in April or May. ! Sir George Mackenzie observes, ' that sea-kale I cannot easily be overdone in cooking, and that after being well boiled it should be thoroughly drained, and then suffered to remain a few minutes before the fire, that a farther portion of moisture may be exhaled.' From four to six heads, according to the size, tied together like asparagus, make a dish; and Maher says a blanching pot which contains three plants wiU afford a dish twice in a season. Hence, from sixty to a hundred pots will suffice for forcing sea-'kalc for a large family." Sea Kale, History of. Sea kale grows wild in many parts of Europe, and was only about a century ago introduced as an article of diet. Its cultivation is conducted on a very limited scale, though in some parts of Scotland it is in common use, and held in high estimation. It is stated by a wi-iter in the first volume of " Notes and Queries," fourth series, that a gardener in the employ of a gentleman at Stoke Fleming, cultivated some plants he found growing wild on the beach at Slapton. They were so appreciated by his master that (846) aeveral roots were sent as presents to Mr. Southcote's friends at Bath; this was about 1775. When once known and talked of in Bath, it soon became popular thi-ough that part of England. This writer states that sea kale was first sold to the public at Exeter market at the price of two shillings and sixpence per root. In the same volume it is stated that the Kev. John Fremen, who was vicar of Sidbury, near Sidmouth, between 1707 13, was the first person that sent sea kale to the London market ; but it appears to have been little appreciated. About the middle of last century, Mr. Griles Templeman, of Dorchester, sent some roots to Covent Garden Market ; but the plant was then so little known that, the labels having been defaced in the carriage to London, the contents of the parcel were put aside as being some sort of " poisonous root or other." Dr. Lettsom, in his horticultural sketch of his residence at drove Hill, Camberwell, 1794, mentions this esculent amongst others grown by him, and expresses some surprise that a vegetable so iiseful and productive and easy of cultivation should be so rarely met with in the gardens about London. Curtis, in his pamphlet on the cultm-e of sea kale, published 1822, states that Sir AVilliam Jones, of Chelsea, says he saw bundles of this vegetable exposed for sale in the market at Chichester in 1753. " I have learned from diiferent persons," says Curtis, "that attempts have been made at various times to introduce sea kale into the London markets, but ineffectually. A few years since I renewed the attempt myself, and though it was not attended with all the success I would wish, I flatter mj'self it has been the means of making the plant so generally known, that in future the markets of the first city of the world will be duly supplied with this most desirable article." The sea kale is not much cultivated on the Continent. Valmount de Bomare calls it " Chou marin sauvage d' Angleterre" and so condemned the plant as only fit for the coarser tastes of the inhabitants of colder climates; but in the present day it is seen in the markets of Paris and other French towns. As to its excellence as a food, persons difiier, as they do in all matters of taste ; some preferring it even to asparagus, to which it is related in point of flavour, others regarding it as little superior to cabbage. In its sensible effects on the human body it comes nearer to the cabbage tribe than asparagus. It is stated to be a most desirable vegetable for sedentary persons, or such as have weak stomachs, being remarkably light and easy of digestion, and abounding in alkali rather than acids. Sea Kale, Stewed. Wash the sea kale, and tie it in bundles. Boil it in salted water for a quarter of an hour, then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with as much bro\vn gravy as wiU cover it. Stew gently till tender. . Lay it in a hot dish, stir a little lemon-juice into the sauce, and pour it over. White sauce or poivrade sauce may, if preferred, be served with sea kale instead of bro-n-n sauce. Time to boil, twenty minutes or more, according to condi- j tion. Probable cost, sea kale when plentiful, I lOd. to Is. per basket. I Sea Kale, Wholesomeness of. Sea kale is very wholesome and easily digested, and is thus well adapted for weak stomachs. Sea Pea. The sea pea grows wild upon our sea coasts, where its roots penetrate to a considerable depth, and also spread in various directions for several feet just under the sui-face. The peas have a bitterish disagTeeable taste, and therefore, whilst more pleasant food is to be obtained, these are rejected; but in times of scarcity they have been the means of preserving thousands of families from perishing, the delicacy of flavour at such times weighing little against the demands of a keen appetite. Both Howe and Camden relate that in the year 1555, being a year of great dearth, the people collected large quantities of these peas in Suffolk, upon a barren path, where even grass would not grow; and as they never had observed any such plant as this there in the time of their fulness, when the eye is careless, thej' attributed their springing up then to miracuI lous agency a miracle to keep the poor from I starving though in all jrobability they had I been growing in the same locality for centuries. ! Sea Pheasant {see Pintail, or Sea Pheaj sant). ! Sea Pie. A sea pie is strictly speaking a ] pie made of scraps ; and thus made, it answers I sufiiciently well for an economical family dini ner ; nevertheless, it is much better when made I with fresh meat. Take as much dressed meat I as will be required, or for a superior pie take a I blanched and jointed chicken and a few slices , of salt beef. ]\Iake pastry in the proportion of i half a pound of butter, or dilpping, or shred I suet, to one of flour. Line a buttered puddingI dish with pastry ; put in a layer of meat sea1 soned -ndth pepper and finelj'-shred onion, then j a layer of pastry, and fill the dish with alternate I layers of meat and pastry. Pour stock or cold I water into the dish, cover closely, and bake, I stew, or steam the pie gently until done enough. i Turn it out carefully, and serve verj hot. This I pie M-ill burn quickly if neglected. Time, a moderate-sized pie, thi-ee to four hours. Sufficient for sLx or eight persons. Sea Pie (another way). Take some uncooked meat cut in slices, and put it in a saucepan ; i eel some onions and swedes (or turnips, if preferred to swedes), cut them in slices, and put them in with the meat, and sufficient water for them to stew ; then place a steamer or a plate on the top. Peel some potatoes, and place them on the plate, and then cover them over with paste made of flour, dripjiing, lard, butter, or suet, and a Little water, and cover it over with potatoes ; the steam from the meat will cook these. A\Tien all is sufficiently done, turn it out of the saucepan, and eat the pie very hot. Food Journal. Sea-water in Cookery. It was stated at a meeting in 1871 of the Academy of Sciences at Paris that while excellent bread can be made vith sea-water, forming, bj the way, a good tonic, soup or broth made with sea-water is entirely uneatable. It would appear that the chloride of magnesium in the sea- water is : (847) SEA to a temperature, during the process of baking, isufficiently high, to effect its destruction, and thereby cause its peculiar taste to disappear, which is not the case when merely boiled, as for soup. If, however, cane sugar be added to the soup, a compound is said to be formed of the sugar with the chlorides, which has not the disagreeable taste of the latter. Seaweeds used as Articles of Diet. Amongst seaweeds, which have been used as articles of diet, none is better known than the Chrondrus crispus, which, under the name of carrageen moss, Irish moss, and pearl moss, has been long eaten in Europe. It is recommended as a medicine, but it has no bitter principle, and probably is less tonic than the lichen. Seaweeds have occasionally been resorted to by the poorer inhabitants of the seashores of Europe, more especially in Ireland, when the ordinary corn or potato crop has failed. They, however, contain but little nutriment, and any one living on nothing else would soon starve. Laver-weed is a peculiar kind of seaweed. Gosse, in his handbook to South Wales, describes it as one of the edible curiosities of the Gower Coast. Women attend the Swansea market, and sell it in small round pats at Id. and 2d. each. Gosse says that the weed makes an excellent ingredient in sauce for mutton. It is obtained close to low-water mark. To prepare it, wash it well in sea-water to free it from sand, then boil it for twelve hours, and season with salt. In winter it is only necesoary to boil it for two hours. The weed grows rapidly, except in winter, and is renewed every other springtide. It is also used in some parts of Scotland on the coast, where it is called sloke or Seal. To the Esquimaux the seal is of as much importance as bread to a European. Its flesh forms their most usual food ; its fat is partly dressed for eating, and partly consumed in their lamps ; the liver when fried is esteemed, ?ven among sailors, as an agreeable dish. Seasoning. The art of seasoning rlishes can only be acquired by experience. Accurate directions cannot possibly be given, because tastes differ so widely, and that which is ?agreeable to one may be insipid to another, and too highly seasoned for a third. A cook should endeavour to ascertain the taste of those she serves, and should adapt the seasoning to meet their requirements. She should add the seasoning in small quantities, as she can easily put in more if needed, but cannot remove what is akeady there. All solid ingredients as herbs, spices, and vegetables need the action of heat to bring out their flavour. Liquid flavourings, on the contrary such as wines, essences, and vinegars diffuse themselves quickly through any preparation into which they are introduced, and, more than this, are frequently lost through being added at too early a period. It is well, therefore, not to put them in tiU the dish is about to be served. The cook will find it to her advantage to have already prepared an aromatic seasoning of herbs and "spices. This should be kept in a closely-stoppered bottle, and after a little has been used, it should bo closely stoppered again (see Herbs and Spices, Aromatic, Seasoning of, and Herbs, Aromatic, Powdered). A good deal of j udgment is needed in using salt and pepper. Judiciously used, salt helps to bring out other flavours, and there is scarcely any mixture sweet or savoury which wUl not be improved by the addition of a little salt. Extravagantly used it will overpower every other flavour, and entirely spoil a dish. A soup or stew should be slightly salted at first. It should be salted to a certain extent to remove a raw taste which would otherwise be found ; and it should not be sufficientlj' salted, because as the liquor boils away the salt flavour will increase. Generally speaking, it wiU bo conceded that herbs impart a more delicate flavour than. spices, and also that old vegetables impart a stronger flavour than young ones. Whatever flavourings are used they should not be permitted to overpower the taste of the article which forms the basis of a dish. Ketchups and store sauces should be sparingly administered, as also should be cayenne pepper, and garlic, and all articles which possess a decided and peculiar zest. All those who have any experience in cookery know very well that the success of a dish, depends to a great extent upon the seasoning. Any person, therefore, who desires to excel in the art should bring to the study of it observation, thought, intelligence, judgment, and care, a keen palate, and a steady hand, for these qualifications are all necessary to one who desires in preparing food to make it not only wholesome and nourishing, but palatable and pleasant, and perfect of its kind. Seasoning for Forcemeat and Game and Meat Pies. Take two ounces of dried thjrme, an ounce of marjoram, an ounce of rosemary, and two ounces of bayleaves. Pound these in a mortar, and pass the powder thi-ough a hair sieve. Pound separately two ounces of cloves, two ounces of black pepper, and one ounce of cayenne, mix these with the powdered herbs, and add four ounces of grated nutmeg. Weigh the powder, and add to it four times its weight in dried salt. Put it into small bottles, cork these securely, and put them in a dry place till wanted. When mixed with salt in this proportion, one ounce of seasoning will flavoiir thi'ee pounds of forcemeat. Seasonings, Every-Day. The ingredients used for these seasonings should be powdered se]xiratoly, then mi.xed together, preserved in dry bottles well stoppered, and stored in a cool dry place. They may be prepared during an hour of leisure, and wiU be found most convenient for flavouring purposes. No. 1. 3fized Spice for favour itig Soups and Gravies. Take two pounds of black pepper, one pound of ginger, half a pound of grated nutmeg, half a pound of allspice, half a pound of cinnamon, one ounce of cloves, and three pounds of dry salt. No. 2. Seasoning of Herbs for Soup, -P. Two ounces of thyme, two ounces of sweet marjoram, two ounces of parsley, two ounces of winter savory, one ounce of' (848) SEE basil, and one ounce of thin lemon-rind. No. 3. j Spice for RagoiUs. Half a pound of mustard, i half a pound of black pepper, half a pound of grated lemon-rind, two ounces of cayenne, one ounce of ginger, one ounce of allspice, half an ounce of grated nuthieg, and one pound of diy salt. No. 4. Kidder s Stoeet Spice for flavouring Pastry. Two ounces of cloves, two ounces of cinnamon, two ounces of mace, two ounces of nutmeg, and two ounces of sugar. No. 5. Mixed Spice for flavour itig Sausages. Five pounds of black pepper, two pounds and a half of ginger, one pound of nutmegs, one pound of cloves, half a pound of aniseed, and half a pound of coriander-seed. Sedentary, Diet for the. The following observations on this subject are drawn from the valuable French work by Tissot on " The Health of Men of Letters." Daily obser ation proves the force of the mind's action on the stomach; and this every man has an opportunity of experiencing in himseK ; for the more intensely any man thinks, and the more strongly he excites the reflecting powers of his mind, the more slowly and with the greater difficulty does he digest what he eats; and, on the other hand, the freer a man's mind is from reflection, the more readily and the better he digests. The diet of those of studious and sedentary habits is therefore a subject of the utmost importance. To enumerate all the various aUments which should be chosen and all those that should be avoided would be tedious, but wo may mention the principal. All fat viscid aliments and all aUments hardened either by nature or art are hurtful. The ancients condemned all sorts of pulse, and Pythagoras strictly forbade his disciples to eat beans, as these possess an extraordinary flatulency, highly destructive to the tranquillity of mind necessary to the investigation of truth. The tender flesh of all young animals is of great service except that of swine and geese not when boiled in copious broth, for then they are deprived of their nutritious juices, but when roasted or boiled in a small quantity of water. Such roots are wholesome as consist of a light flom-, not without a mixture of salt or sugar ; and the same is to to be said of soft herbs which are neither too acid nor too emollient. Nor should the several sorts of seeds be neglected; nor ripe fruits, concerning the use of which a caution should be observed; for they relax, dissolve, cause acidity, and thereby are the less fit for the sedentary. But it is to be observed that amongst the most severe disorders of the studious and sedentary are reckoned the stagnation, the thickening, and the hardening of the bile, which defects are best remedied by fruits that swell with saponaceous juices, as strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, peaches, grapes, pearsf and other fruits of the like nature, which studious, sedentary men cannot well do without, especially in summer. Care should be taken to prevent their being detrimental by eating them when the stomach is empty either with or without bread, and long before and long after having drunk wine ; for thus they neither disturb the digestion of the other aliments, nor, being hardened with wine, prove more difficult of digestion themselves. Eggs properly boiled are very good. Wellbaked bread and preparations of bread arc also of service. Milk is wholesome provided it does not grow acid on the stomach. Chocolate deserves to be recommended, for it soon repairs and restores the strength ; it should not, however, be used to excess. Various dishes which may be made out of the aliments already mentioned by judicious and prudent mixture are very wholesome, but it is better to use only simple food either raw or boiled. Relaxed fibres sometimes require a gentle stimulus therefore a mild seasoning is not to be disapproved of, as salt, sugar, cinnamon, nutmegs, and such agreeable aromatics as are generally cultivated thyme and sweet marjoram, for example ; but those are to be avoided which stimulate with a sharp salt or oil that nature can scarcely overcome. There are other helps to digestion, and the chief of these is exact mastication, which greatly forwards the work of the stomach ; this is highly recommended by physicians ; but slighted by others, very foolishly, and greatly to their own prejudice. Digestion is perfoi-med slowly by the studious and the sedentary, therefore fresh aliments should seldom be given them. To make three meals a day, one somewhat considerable, and the other two rather slight, will be sufficient. The example of Julius Cassar, who was very moderate in eating, is veiy properly projjosed to the learned, as is likewise that of the illustrious Cornaro, who restored his ruined health by a regular diet alone ; and eating but the fourth part of the quantity of victuals eaten by his fellow-citizens, lived to an advanced age, vigorous and cheerful. A regular diet is capable of eft'ecting everj-thing; studious men, however, whilst they take care of their health, ought not to forget that a man who is well should not so confine himself to rules as not to break through them when he thinks proper; for a constant habit is real slavery ; and many learned and studious men have been known who were so scrupulous with regard to their hours of eating and going to bed, that their minds seemed to be chained to their bodies, which is the most shameful sort of servitude. Seed Biscuits. No. l. Beat four ounces of fresh butter to cream, add a pinch of salt, four ounces of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, one pound of flour, and a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. Mix the di-y ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them three well-beaten eggs. Roll out the pastry, cut it into fancy biscuits of any shape, prick these with a fork, and bake in a well-heated oven. If liked, one egg, a little milk, and a tea-spoonful of baking-powder may be used. No. 2. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds, and a dessert-spoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little milk. Knead the dough till it forms a light smooth paste, roll it out, stamp it into shapes, and bake in a well-heated oven. No. 3. Rub one pound of butter into three pounds of flour, add a pinch of salt, an ounce of caraway-seeds, and three-quarters of a pound of powdered I sugar. ]Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, SEE (849) ?work into them three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk, and knead the dough till it is smooth. EoU it out, cut it into rounds or squares, prick it with a fork, and hake in a gentle oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Seed. Buns. Put four pounds of dried and sifted flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt . and one pound of Demerara sugar. Make a hollow in the centre, and pour into this a quarter of a pint of good yeast beaten up with a pint of lukewarm milk, and as much flour as wiU. make a light batter. Cover the bowl, and leave it in a wai-m place for two hours. At the end of that time knead it well, and work into it a pound of butter dissolved till it will run, but not hot, and as much warm milk as will make a soft dough. Cover the bowl again, and let the dough rise for an hour, when it will be ready for making up into buns. It is a good plan to divide it, and make one portion into plain buns, another into cui-rant buns, and a thii-d into seed ?uns. For seed buns, take a pound of the plain dough, work into it half an ounce of caraway-seed, and form it into little balls. Put these into buttered patty-pans, and let them rise before the fire for a few minutes. Brush them over with white of egg or with milk, and sprinkle a little powdered sugar over the top. Bake in a weUheated oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Seed Cake, Family, made from Dougtl. No. 1. Take a quartern of dough left from making bread. If procured from the baker's, set it in a basin, covered with a cloth, before the fire to rise. Best half a pound of butter or drip]Ding to cream ; work this into the dough, and add three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, an ounce of caraway-seeds, and a well-beaten egg. Knead the dough well; put it into one large or two moderate-sized buttered baking-tins, let it stand before the fire to rise, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time, about two houi's for one cake. Probable cost, if made with di-ipping, about 4d. per pound. No. 2. Take a quartern of dough. Spread it out on a pastry-board, and slice half a pound of lard, butter, or dripping over it. Sprinkle on it a heaped tea-spoonful of baking powder, add eight oimces of moist sugar, two ounces of caraway- seeds, and two ounces of finely-shred candied peel. Knead the dough till the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Set it before the fire to rise for a short time, put it into greased tins, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, one to two hours, according to the size of the cakes. No. 3. Take a quartern of dough. Spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice half a pound of fresh butter upon it, and work this in, together with a tea- spoonful of salt, half an oimce of carawayseeds, half a pound of good moist sugar, and six eggs put in singly. When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, put the dough into two or more well-buttered tins, and place them before the fire for a short time. When the dough is light, put the cakes in a weU-heated oven, and bake until they are done enough. No. 4. Put two i ounds of flour into a bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, eight ounces of powdered sugar, two tablespoonfuls of caraway-seeds, and a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Knead the dough thoroughly, and work into it half a pound of butter which has been dissolved in half a pint of milk. Throw a cloth over the bowl, and set it in a warm place to rise. Pour it into a buttered mould, and bake in a well-heated oven. Spices may be added to these cakes, if liked. Time to bake, about one hour. Seed Cake, Irish {see Irish Seed Cake). Seed Cake, Rich.. Take a pound and a quarter of flour, well dried, one pound of butter, one pound of povmded and sifted loaf sugar, eight eggs, and two ounces of caraway-seeds, one grated nutmeg, and its weight in cinnamon. Beat the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites of the eggs and the yolks separately, then mix them with the butter and sugar. Beat in the flour, spice, and seed, a short time before placing it in the oven. Bake in a quick oven. Time, two hours to bake. Seed Cake, Superior. No. i. Beat haK a pound of butter to cream. Work into it half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, and, gradually, the well-beaten yolks of six eggs with the whites of four whisked till firm. Add three-quarters of a pound of dried and sifted flour, one ounce of caraway-seeds, and half a grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. No. 2. Beat half a pound of butter to cream. Shake half a pound of flour into it, and add a pinch of salt, six ounces of powdered sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Whisk three eggs with a table-spoonful of brandy, and with this work the mixture to a smooth paste. Pour it into a well-buttered tin, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Time to bake, one hour or more. No. 3. Pub six ounces of butter to cream ; add six ounces of good moist sugar, three-quarters of a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, and a small tea-spoonful of carawayseeds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and add three weU-beaten eggs and as much milk as will make the mixture soft and smooth. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. No. 4. Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to cream ; add an equal weight of powdered and sifted sugar, and, very gradually, eight eggs, the whites and yolks "having been whisked separately'. Dredge slo-wly in threequarters of a pound of dried flour, beat the mixture well, and work into it ten ounces of mixed candied peel finely shred, two ounces of blanched sweet almonds chopped small, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and two table-spoonfuls of rose-water. Line a baking-tin with buttered paper, and three-parts fill it with the mixture. Smooth the surface with a knife, and ( 850 ) SEM sprinkle comfits over the top. Bake in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, threequarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 3s. No. 5. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream, and mix - v-ith it very gradually a quarter of a pint of orange or rose-water. Add a pound of powdered sugar, twelve oimces of dried floior, three ounces of ground rice, two ounces of sweet almonds, and two ounces of blanched and pounded bitter almonds, an ounce of caraway-seeds, and nine well-beaten eggs. The ingredients should be added slowly, and the mixture beaten between every addition. Line a buttered cake-tin with oiled or buttered paper, three-parts fill it with the mixtm-e, and then bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about an horn' and a half. Probable cost of these cakes, from lOd. to Is. 6d. per pound. Seed Cakes, Cheap. No. i. Rub sLx ounces of sweet di-ipping into a poimd of flour, add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, a table-spoonful of caraway-seeds, and six ounces of sugar. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Put a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda into half a pint of milk, and set it in the oven till the soda is dissolved. Let the milk cool a little, and when it is lukewarm add a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and stir it into the cake. Beat the cake well, put it into a buttered hoop, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. No. 2. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into three pounds of flour; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, thi'ee heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, two tea-spoonfuls of mixed spice, two ounces of caraway-seeds, a pinch of powdered mace or gTated nutmeg, eight ounces of sugar, and two ounces of candied peel chopped small. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Beat them to a paste with a pint of milk, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, thi-ee- quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 5d. per pound. Sufficient for two moderate-sized cakes. No. 3. Rub six ounces of butter into a pound of flom', add a pinch of salt, six ounces of moist sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of carawayseeds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dissolve a small dessert-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a table-spoonful of milk. Add this to as much milk as will make up half a pint altogether, stir the milk to two well-beaten eggs, and afterwards beat the whole into the cake. Put the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. A little spice and candied peel can be added, if approved. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Suflicient for a moderatesized cake. No. 4. Rub six ounces of butter into three-quarters of a poimd of flour, add a pinch of salt, five ounces of the best moist sugar, and a dessert-spoonful of carawayseed. Dissolve half a small tea-spoonful of soda in a tea-spoonful of hot milk. Beat this up with two eggs already well whisked, and stii- the whole into the cake. Put the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Seidlitz Water, Bottled. Take a sufficient number of soda-water bottles, and fiU them with clear water ; then add the following ingredients, and cork and wire the bottles immediately : Two drachms of Rochelle salts, thirty-five grains of bicarbonate of soda, and eleven drops of sulphuric acid. Seir Pish. This fish inhabits the seas of the East Indies, and is one of the most valuable products of these parts. In size and form it closely resembles the salmon ; its fiesh also is similar in point of firmness and flavoiu-. The colour of the flesh is white. Semolina. Semolina, or Semoule, or Soujee, is simplj' a nourishing and wholesome preparation of wheat-flour. It may be made into puddings or used for thickening soups, and is specially suitable for the use of childi-en and sick people. It may be piu'chased of grocers or Italian warehousemen. Semolina Cup-Puddings. Put three ounces of semolina into a bowl, and pour over it as much milk as will cover it. Let it soak for half an horn-, drain it, and jiut it into a saucepan with a pint and a half of boilingmilk, three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a slice of fresh butter, and a salt-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Stir it over the flre without J ceasing for about a quarter of an hour. Pomit out, let it cool a little, and beat briskly into it foui- well- whisked eggs. Pour the mixture into buttered cups, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn the puddings upon a dish, and pour mustard sauce round them before ser ng?. Time to bake, haK an hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Suflicient for five or six persons. Semolina Pudding. Take a pint and a half of milk, di-op lightly into it two tablespoonfuls of semolina, and stir all together for seven or eight minutes; throw in two ounces of butter, and three ounces and a haK of sifted sugar, with the grated rind of a lemon. Whilst the semolina still remains hot, beat gi'adually and briskly into it four eggs. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, haK an hour. Semolina Pudding, Baked. Flavour a pint and a half of milk with almonds or lemon-rind. Put it into a saucepan, and stir into it three ounces, or a little more than four table-spoonfuls, of semolina, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a slice of fresh butter. Stir the mixture over the flre till it thickens a little. Pour it out, let it cool, and add gradually four weU-beaten eggs. Line the edge of a weUbuttered pie-dish with good pastrj , pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. If a plain pudding is required, two eggs only need be used. Serve stowed fruit or wine sauce with the pudding. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Suflicient for four or five persons. Semolina Pudding, French ( de Semoule). } Gateau (851 ) SHA Semolina Pudding, Steamed. Take a pint of milk, and flavour it -with pounded bitter almonds. Strain, and put it into a saucepan, and mix with it half a pound of semolina, six or eight ratafias, a pinch of salt, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a good slice of butter. Stii- the mixture over the fire till it thickens and leaves the sides of the saucepan. Pour it out, let it cool, and stir briskly into it six wellwhisked eggs. Butter a plain mould rather thickly, fill it with the preparation, cover it closely, and steam until done enough. Let it stand two or three minutes. Turn the pudding out carefully, pour stewed fruit or sweet sauce round it, and send a little more to table on a separate dish. The saucepan must be closely covered, and a continuous supply of steam kept round the pudding, that it may be thoroughly cooked. Time to steam, one horn*. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for foiu- or five persons. Semolina Soup. Take any kind of nicely-flavom-ed stock, and let it boil. Drop into it as much semolina as will thicken it, and keep stirring for fear it should burn. Let it simmer gently until done enough, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, half an hour. From two to three ounces of semolina will thicken a quart of stock. Service Berries. These are the fruit of the wild service-tree, very common in the hedges and fields of some parts of England. They are at present little kno oi, but were in considerable use formerly. The country people in some places gather the bunches of berries, and hang them up in the air till they undergo an incipient putrefaction, in which state they possess a peculiar acid, astringent taste, and are considered as having cathartic properties. When mellowed by frost they have been used as food. Seville Orange. The Seville orange is of the same species as the sweet orange, but so bitter in taste that it is unfit to eat in its raw state. It is chiefly used for making marmalade {see Orange ]\Iarmalade) and wine, and the rind is used for flavouring purposes. It seldom comes into the market before the end of Februarj . Seville Orange Cakes. Divide the oranges in halves, and take out the pips, of which there are a good many small ones. Scrape the pulp and juice into a bowl, and boil the rinds until they are so tender that a fork will pierce them easily. Dry them, and weigh them, and allow two pounds of powdered sugar to one pound of orange-rind. Pound them to paste in a mortar, and add, very gradually, the juice, the pulp, and the powdered sugar. Mix all together, and when the preparation is thick and yellow, drop it upon tins, and dry these in a cool oven. Time, about two hours to boil the rind. Probable cost, Seville oranges, Is. per dozen when plentiful. Seville Orange Cardinal. A few days before the cardinal is wanted peel three bitter oranges, slice them very thin, and pour a bottle of wine over them ; then strain the preparation through a tamis, and add to the juice two bottles of wine and two or three pounds of sugar : keep stirring all the time till the sugar is completely melted. Seville Orange Cordial Water. Take one handful of young green fir-tree tops, two handfuls of watercresses, the same of scurvy-grass, one pound of burdock roots scraped and sliced, the thin rinds of twelve Seville oranges, the juice of the same, and five gallons of newly-brewed ale-wort. Beat the herbs in a mortar, and infuse all while the wort is fermenting with the yeast. When done working, stop it up, and di-ink occasionally when fine. Seville Orange Paste {see Orange, Seville, Paste for Dessei-t). Shad. Shad is a salt-water fish, not verjhighly esteemed. It is in season from the end of March tiU May, and may be broiled, fried, baked, boiled, or salted. When plentiful it is cheap, but it varies very much in price. The French value this fish highly. They often have it stewed in light vdnc, and served covered with bechamel. Shad, Broiled. No. l. Scale a fish, cut off its head, empty and wash it carefully, split it open down the sides of the backbone, and, if liked, divide each fillet into pieces two or three inches wide. Wipe these pieces -w-ith a soft cloth, dip them in oil, and broil them gently until done enough. Eemember to lay the inner part of the flesh to the fire first, and when one side is done turn it upon the other. Work a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of pepper into four ounces of butter with the point of a sharp knife. Lay the paste on a hot dish, and turn the broiled fish two or three times in it. Put the dish-cover over it, and keep it in a hot place till wanted. No. 2. Clean, empty, and dry a fish weighing about two pounds, and score it across the back. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, pour upon it as much oil as will cover it, and let it lie until it is well soaked. Broil it over a clear steady fire, and when one side is done ttu'n it upon the other. Drain it, serv e on a hot dish, and send oil and viaegar, or caper sauce, soiTel SKA (852) SHA sauce, or maitre d'hotel butter, to table with. it. Time, half an hour to soak the fish, and about eighteen minutes to broil each side. Cost, variable. Shad, French way of Cooking. "This fish," says M. Ude, " is held in high estimation in France, and especially in Paris. It must be scaled, emptied, and washed nicely. Next it is to be steeped in a little oil with pepper and salt. It is necessary to split it, that the salt may penetrate. Broil it on both sides over a slow fire. It will be done in the course of one hour. AVben done, let it be served with caper sauce, or with sorrel." Shad, Fried. Scale the fish, lift the flesh from the bones, and divide it into pieces convenient for serving. Preserve the roe to fry with it. Wash the pieces, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and dip each one separately in tlour. Put them into boiling hot fat, and fry them gently until done enough. Drain them, and serve them upon a hot dish. Fry the roe, and garnish the fish with it. Serve with caper or maitre d'hotel sauce. Time to fry, ten minutes or more, according to thickness. Shad, Planked, American. Scale and empty the fish, cut ofl: the head, and split it open from head to tail. Spread it on a board, and fasten it down with pegs or skewers to keep it in position. Put it before a clear fire, and rest the lower end of the plank in a tub containing salt and water. Toast the fish, and keep basting it well with the liquor ; when it is almost cooked baste it with butter. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with pickled walnuts, and send melted butter flavoured with walnut ketchup to table in a tureen. Shad, Potted. Clean the shad, take off the head, tail, and fins, and cut it in pieces to suit the jar in which it is to be potted. Pound, first separately and afterwards together, two blades of mace, two tea-spoonfuls of allspice, and a tea-spoonful of cloves. Sprinkle a Uttle pepper, salt, and cayenne over the pieces of fish, pack them in layers in a jar, and dredge a Httle of the seasoning over each layer. When the jar is full cover the whole with vinegar, put the lid on the jar, or if it is necessary to tie a covering of paper or cloth over it, lay a piece of dough upon this to prevent the steam escaping. Put the jar in a moderate oven, and bake until done enough. Keep the potted fish covered with the liquor till wanted. It will make a good breakfast relish. Herrings may be potted in the same way. Time to bake, about three hours. Shad, Stuffed and Baked. Wash, empty, and scale a shad, and till the inside with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with a forcemeat prepared as foUows : Moisten two slices of crumb of bread with hot water, press the water from it, and beat it up with a slice of butter, three or four sage-leaves chopped small, fgid a little pepper and salt. Sew up the body of the fish with soft cotton, and dredge it well with flour. Lay it upon a trivet in a drippingpan, seasoning it with pepper and salt; lay little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and pour a pint of water round it to baste it with. Bake in a quick oven, and baste frequently, and if necessary add a Httle more water. Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little water, work into it a slice of fresh butter, and mix with it half a pint of the gravy in the pan. Put it into a saucepan, stir it tiU it thickens, and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, garnish with parsley and lemon, and send mashed potatoes to table with it. Time to bake, one hour. Shad, Stuffed and Broiled. Scale a shad weighing about two pounds, empty and clean it carefully, opening it as little as possible in doing so. Fill it with veal or oyster forcemeat ; sew up the body of the fish with soft cotton that the forcemeat may not escape. Wrap it in a sheet of paper that has been dipped in oil, and broil over a clear, gentle fire. Serve with caper sauce or with oil and vinegar. Time to broil, about an hour. Shaddock Orange. This plant was brought from the East Indies to the West, where it is now much cultivated. It sometimes produces fruit larger than a man's head, but they are of a harsh flavour and pale colour when compared with those of India, the flesh of which is sweet and of a deep gold colour. When several sorts of orange are presented at the dessert it makes a striking addition to the variety. The juice is of a sub-acid sweetness, and excellent for quenching thirst, and the fruit, from the thickness of its skin, will keep longer in sea-voj'ages than any of the other species of citrus. Shallot. The shallot, or eschalot, is a kind of onion the mildest cultivated used for seasoning soups and made dishes, and for flavouring sauces and salads. The shallot has a bulbous root, made up of a number of smaller bulbs, called cloves. It ought to be taken up in the autumn, and be hung in nets in a cool airy place. When properly dried, it will keep till spring. It is stronger in taste than the onion, but does not leave so strong an odour on the palate, and for this reason is often employed instead of the onion, both in cooking and for eating in a raw state. It is planted during October or November, or early in spring, say in February, March, or. the beginning of April. Shallots are in the best condition during July, August, and September. Shallot for Venison. Strip off the skin from some fine shallots about a pint in quantity boil them in salted water for five minutes, then throw off the first water, and add more boiling water to them. If the sauce is desired very mild, change the water until quite done, and thi'ow in salt enough to flavour. Drain them thoroughly. Serve in good melted butter or gra-sy. This sauce is often served as an accompaniment to venison when the true flavour of the meat is not relished. Time, about fifteen minutes to boil. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. Shallot Gravy {see Gravy, Shallot). SHA ( 853 ) SHA Shallot Gravy, for Broiled Cutlets, &C. y ii iind mince half a dozen .shallots. Put them into a saucepan with a wine-fi;lasst'ul of vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a little coarse pepper, and let them boil very gently for five minutes. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of brown gravy, add a small lump of sugar, let the sauce boil again until the gravy is pleasantly flavoured, and strain it into a tureen. If liked, a clove and a little piece of mace may be boiled with the shallot. Time, altogether, twelve to fifteen minutes. Shallot Pickle. Shallot pickle is prepared in the same way as garlic pickle, that is to say, as follows : Steep one quarter of a j pound of ginger in strong salt and water for five days. At the end of that time cut it into slices, and dry it in the sun ; put it into a large stone jar with a gallon of the best white-wine i vinegar. Peel one pound of garlic or shallot, salt it well, and let it stand in the salt for three days. Wipe it, and dry it in the sun, then put it into the pickle. Add also to the pickle a j quarter of a pound of long pepper steeped in salt I and water and well dried, one pound of bruised I mustard-seed, and a quarter of a pound of tur- meric. Shake these ingredients well in the jar, and add anything that it is desirable to pickle [ as it comes into season, salting and drying it previously in the sun. When completed, the pickle should be kept for a year or two. When that time has expired, it will be found to be excellent. The flavour of shallots may bo obtained by placing them in a bottle of cold vinegar : in a month they will be found to have imparted their flavour to the vinegar. Shallot Sauce, for Boiled Mutton, Poultry, Chops, and Steaks. Mince four shallots, lay them on the corner of a napkin, pour cold water over them, and press them with a cloth tiU dry. Put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of stock, add a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently till they are tender. ]\Iix with them a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, and stir the sauce again over the fire, but do not allow it to boil up. Add a dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and serve. Time, altogether, a quarter of an hour. Shallot Sauce, for Tripe, &c. Skin and mince twelve shallots, and add, if liked, a little piece of garlic the size of a pea. This addition, however, is sometimes objected to. Put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and also a tea-spoonful of finely-grated horseradish, a table-spoonful of strained lemonjuice, and a little salt, cayenne, and mixed mustard. Stir these ingredients quickly over a brisk fire for five minutes ; add gradually a quarter of a pint of milk, and simmer the sauce a few minutes longer. Lift the saucepan from the fire, and let its contents cool for two minutes. Stir into the sauce the yolk of an egg beaten up with a quarter of a pint of cream or milk, and whisk it over the fire for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boil ; servo very hot. Time, altogether, a quarter of an hour. Shallot Sauce, Mild. Pare four or si:% shallots, and tlirow them into boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil five minutes; drain them, and boil them again in fresh boiling water : repeat this until the shallots are tender. Drain them, mince them, and stir them into a pint of good melted butter or white sauce. Let all simmer together a few minutes longer, and serve. Some cooks put an inch of lemon-rind with the shallots. Time to boil the shallots, about a quarter of an hour. Shallot Vinegar. Take four ounces of shallots that are fully ripe without being at all acrid. Skin and mince them, put them into a bottle, and pour over them a quart of best pickling vinegar. Let them infuse for ten days, shaking the bottle every day. Strain the vinegar, filter it, bottle in small bottles, coi-k these securely, and store for use. This preparation will prove most valuable for flavouring soups, sauces, hashes, &c. It will keep for a long time. Time, ten days to infuse. Shallots are in season dui-ing the months of July, August, and September. Shallot Vinegar (another way). Skin five or six ounces of shallots, and put them into a jar with a quart of good vinegar ; keep the jar closely corked for three weeks, then strain for use. If a stronger flavour be desired, use more shallots. Garlic \'inegar is made in the same way, only using haK the quantity of garlic to one quart of vinegar. Time, from two to three weeks. Shallot TVine. Shallot wine is a preparation largely used and highly esteemed. When an acid taste is not required, and, consequently, when shallot vinegar would be objected to, shallot wine will flavour a hash or ragout with onion most pleasantly, and the wine extracts the flavour of shallots even better than vinegar does. Skin, mince, and bruise four ounces of shallots ; put them into a bottle with a pint of sherry, and let them infuse ten days or a fortnight ; strain the liquor, and bottle for use. When a very strong flavouring is desired, pour the pint of sherry over three ounces of shallots ; let them infuse ten days ; pour off the liquor, and put it into a clean bottle with three ounces of fresh shallots, skinned and bruised. Infuse ten days longer, strain, and bottle for use. Time, ten days or more. Shallot Wine. Put four oimces of shallots, after ha ?ing peeled and bruised them, into a bottle, add a pint of sherry ; look at the wine in about a fortnight, and if sufficiently flavoured strain it off; but if not, add two ounces more shallots to the wine, and half a tea-spoonful of cayenne. Shake the bottle occasionally, but let it rest three or four days before straining, so that the Avine may be a good colour and not thick. This wine is very useful in all large culinary establishments, as it imparts an agreeable flavour without anj acidity. Time to i repare, from ten to twenty days. Probable cost, 8d. without wine. Shallots, Pickled. Take as much vinegar as will be required to cover the shallots, and boil it with spices in the follo-\ving proportions. To each quart of vinegar put a smnll blade of mace, two cloves, four allspice, two grains of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of black peppercorns, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Strain SHA (854) it, and let it get cold. Divide and sldn the shallots ; put them into perfectly dry and sound pickling jars, and intersperse amongst them the spices taken from the vinegar. Pour the vinegar over them, and let them be entirely covered with it. Store for use. The pickle may he used in two months. Time to boil the viaegar and spices, three minutes. Sharp Sauce, for Cutlets, Boiled Beef, Boiled Mutton, &c. Skin and mince four shallots, and put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and four table- spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir these over the fire till the vinegar is reduced and the butter looks clear. Mix one ounce of Hour smoothly into it, and keep stiiTuig over a brisk fire until the paste is slightly coloured without being at all burnt. Add gradually a pint of broth, and let the sauce simmer for twenty minutes. Stir in a table-spoonful of minced gherkins, a table-spoonful of blanched and chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt, if required. Boil, skim, and serve very hot. A little browning should be added if necessary. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Sheep's Brains (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Proceed just as in the recipe Sheep's Brains, Matelote of, with the croutons (crusts) glazed and stuck in the dish; and at dinner-time, as soon as you have dished up the brains, take three spoonfuls of bechamel, a good bit of fresh butter, a little salt and cayenne, some parsley chopped and blanched, and. the juice of half a lemon ; then work the sauce over the fire to render it very hot, and serve quickly. Ude. Sheep's Brains (a la Maitre d'Hotel). Another way. Pre})are and parboil the brains ; then lay them in the bottom of a wide stewpan, each brain resting upon a slice of bacon. Add a small bunch of parsley, a small onion, one clove, some salt, a chiUi, a couple of slices of lemon, and a quarter of a pint of broth and cover the whole -ndth a layer of bacon. Cover the stewpan, and let its contents stew slowly for haK an hour without being uncovered. Let the brains now stand a couple of hours in the stewpan by the side of the fire, merely that they may acquire the flavour of the ingredients in the stewpan ; hut they must neither boil nor simmer, nor in anywise approach ebuUition. Have some triangular slices of bread ready fried to garnish the dish with. Drain the brains from the fat, place them upon a dish with the sippets, and pomover them the following sauce : Into a small stewpan put two ounces of butter ; when it boils sprinkle in half a table-spoonful of flour. Stir into this half a pint of broth, and put in with it a bimch of parsley and a very small bit of lemon-peel. When the sauce is reduced and of proper consistence, season it with salt and a little cayenne. Strain the sauce, and put it again into the stewpan, adding a little lemon- juice and some chopped parsley. Give it a few boils, and pour it quite hot over the brains. Sheep's Brains and Tongue. Take the brains out of the head without breaking them, soak them in salted water for an hour, skin them, and pick away the fibres. Throw them into boiling water, put the tongue, already boiled with the head, with them. Let ! the brains boil quickly for a quarter of an i hour; take them out, mince them, and beat ; them up with three table- spoonfuls of the j liquor in which they were boiled, three table! spoonfuls of cream, a table-spoonful of blanched I and chopped parsley, and a little pepper and ; salt. Boil the brains with half a tea-spoonful 1 of white thickening ; or, failing this, wT.th a ? small piece of butter rolled in flour. Skin the ' tongue, put it in the centre of a small dish, poui- the brains round it, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, sheeps' heads, lOd. to Is. each. i Sufficient for one or two persons. i Sheep's Brains (en Matelote). Prepare I the brains as for Sheep's Brains a la Maitre j d'Hotel, the almost only difterence being in the sauce poui-ed upon them, which is thus made : Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan. When it has done boiling, stir into it half a table- spoonful of flour. Stir the butter and flour now and then, and let it fry gently untU it has acquired a rich brown colour, of reddish I hue. Next add by degrees a pint of white j wine, madeh-a, or sherry, and half a pint of well-flavoured and rich broth, but without any fat. Put in also a bunch of herbs so tied up that it may easily be taken out before the sauce is used. This bunch is to consist of parsley, green onions, haK a bay-leaf, a very small bit of thyme, and a clove of garhc. Let the sauce reduce ; then throw in a few morels, small mushrooms, and small bleached onions. Season with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. When the sauce is on the point of being done, put into it a couple of ounces of truffles cut into slices and fried on both sides in butter. Give them a couple of boils, and the sauce is ready. ]\Ieanwhile, make some balls of the stuffing as indicated for the Ox-palates au Gratin, and frjthem in butter of a nice brown, taking care that they be thoroughly done. When the brains are arranged in the dish with the sippets, garnish with these forcemeat balls, and with some crawfish ; then pour the sauce over them, and serve up immediately. Sheep's Brains, Matelote of. Take I eight rmbroken sheep's brains. Put them into 1 a large vessel with some lukewarm water; take off the skin, and let them disgorge for two hours. When they are become quite white, blanch them in boiling water, vinegar, and salt; and when they are very firm put them in cold water, after which place some layers of bacon round a stewpan big enough to hold all the eight brains ; add a small onion with one clove, a small bundle of parsley well-seasoned, and some salt, and cover with some layers of bacon and a round of paper; a httle broth is required, and a few slices of lemon to keep them very white. Twenty minutes will suffice to boil them, but they niust be boiled two hours or more before dinner to acquire a flavour; then at dinner you must have ready some croutons, or small crusts of bread, in quantity equal to the brains, SHE ( 855 ) SHE stick them in the dish alternately to leave room to put the brains in the spaces ; mask them with the sauce of matelotes, mushrooms, and small onions, &c. This matelote is the same sauce as the financiere, only reduce a little madeira wine in a small stewpan, and put to it a mushroom, a smaU glazed onion, a small quenelle, &c., and put the ragoilt into the middle, and the sauce over the brains. Udc. Sheep's Brains, Roasted or Baked. Four or six brains will be required for a dish. Prepare the brains as for stewing, and procure as many slices of bacon as there are brains. After they have been boiled and thrown into cold water, di-ain and dry them perfectly; brush over with oil, and roll them in highlyseasoned bread-crumbs. Put them on the bacon before the fire in a Dutch oven, or bake in a weU-heated oven, turning them about that they may be equally cooked, and basting them occasionally. When they are nicely browned, take them up. Lay the slices of bacon on toast, put the brains upon them, and send sharp sauce or tomato sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Sheep's Brains, Scalloped. Soak the brains in cold salted water for an hour. Remove the skin, and pick away the fibres. Put them into boiling water in which vinegar and salt have been mixed, and let them boil quickly for ten minutes. Throw them into cold water for a few minutes, and drain them. Cut them into small pieces, and mix with them an onion er shallot finely minced, a few parsley leaves scalded and chopped small, a few drops of vinegar and anchovy essence, and a little pepper and salt. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, throw in the brains, and shake the saucepan over the fire until they are done enough without being browned. Cleanse the scallop-shells, or small scallop-dishes which serve the same purpose, butter the inside rather thickly, and cover them with a layer of breadcrumbs. Distribute the minced brains and the gravy amongst them, and cover all with a layer of crumbs. Brown the surface in a quick oven or before the fire, and serve very hot. This favourite mode of cookery may be advantageously applied to cold meat, vegetables, mushrooms, fish, and shell-fish. Time to bake the scalloped Israins, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient, one set of brains for two scallop-shells. Sheep's Brains, Stewed (a good breakfast or side-dish). Take four or six fresh brains, soak them in salt and water for an hour, remove the sldn, pick off the fibres, and put them into boiling water into which was put when cold a dessert-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Let the brains boil quickly for ten minutes. Take them up without breaking them, and put them into cold water. Take as many thin sHces of bacon as there are brains. Put them into a saucepan. Lay the brains upon them, pour over them as much stock or broth as will cover them, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, three young onions, two cloves, an inch or two of thin lemon-rind, and a little salt and cayenne. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until done enough. Put the pieces of bacon on a dish, and lay the brains upon them. Strain the liquor, thicken it with flour and butter, stir a table-spoonful of lemon-juice into it, and pour it over the meat. Garnish with sippets, and serve very hot. If liked, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence and a glassful of claret may be added to the sauce. Time to boil the brains the second time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Sheep's Feet {see Sheep's Trotters). Sheep's Harslet, Hashed. Take the liver, heart, and hghts of a sheep, and wash them well in several waters. Boil them gently till tender in salted water, carefully removing the scxmi as it rises. Mince them finely, season with pepper and salt, and add a seasoning of powdered herbs, if hked. Moisten the mince with stock, thicken with brown thickening, and stir it over the fire till it is quite hot. Serve on a hot dish, and send potatoes and boiled carrots to table with it. A few pickles may be served with it, if desired. Time to stew the meat, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, variable, but inexpensive. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sheep's Head, Sheep's head has so little meat belonging to it, either inside or out, that it seems to many persons as though it were scarcely worth the trouble it gives. Nevertheless it constitutes good nourishing food at a modei'ate expense, and when it is liked at all it is very much liked. Several recipes are here given for preparing it. It is one of the ancient national dishes of Scotland, and to dwellers north of the Tweed is almost always welcome, not only on account of its intrinsic excellence, but also because of the associations which belong to it. The village of Duddingston, near Edinburgh, was long celebrated for this dish. A sheep's head may be stewed with or without the trotters and the pluck ; nourishing and wholesome broth may be made from it ; it may be hashed, curried, or served as a ragout, or it may be made into a pie. When sauces are required for it, those usually served with cow heel or boiled mutton are the best adapted for it. Some cooks prefer the head of a ram to that of a wether, though it needs longer boUing. Sheep's Head, Baked. Split the head in halves, take out the brains, and soak the head in lukewarm water for an hour. Drain it, put the halves together, and keep them in position by tpng string round them. Lay the head in a dripping-tin, put raw potatoes pared and cut into halves round it, lay little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequentlj', and turn the potatoes about that they may be equally done. "When done enough, serve the head on a dish, put the potatoes round it, pour the gravy in the pan over all, and serve as hot as possible. The brains and tongue may be served on a separate dish {see Sheep's Brains and Tongue). Time to bake the head, about one hour and a ( 856 ) SHE half. Protable cost, Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sheep's Head, Baked, with Mashed Potatoes. This is an inexpensive and wholesome dish. Clean the head thoroughly, and let it soak in lukewarm water for a couple of hours to get rid of the blood. Put it into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, two onions, and a leek, all cut into dice, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a sprig of marjoram, all tied together, a little pepper and salt, a small lump of sugar, and two ounces of pearl barley. Pour two quarts of water into the pan, and simmer all gently together for a couple of hours, ykim the liquor carefully, and stir the souj) occasionally to keep the barley from burning to the bottom of the pan. Take a pintbasinful of well-washed potatoes, and spread them on a dish in a small mound about two inches deep. Take up the head, drain it, place it upon the potatoes, and sprinkle over it two table-spoonfuls of nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs. Lay little pieces of butter or dripping here and there upon it, and bake in a quick oven till both the head and the potatoes are brightly browned. Take the bunch of herbs from the soup, skim it carefully, boil it up once more, and serve in a tureen. Time to bake the head, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep's Head Boiled with Vegetables. Clean the head, split it, take out the brains, and soak it in lukewarm water. Tie the halves together with string, put the head into a saucepan, and pour over it as much cold water as will cover it. Bring this to the boil, skim carefully, and let all simmer gentl}- together for an hour. Throw into the liquor two turnips, two carrots, two onions, two parsnips, a small bunch of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Mix four ounces of oatmeal smoothly with a little of the liquor, stir it into the rest, let it boil, then cover the saucepan closely, and simmer all gently together until done enough. Take up the head, and remove the tongue, which should be served with the brains on a separate dish [see Sheep's Brains and Tongue). Put the head on a dish, place the vegetables round it, and serve hot. The broth may be used for soup. Time, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep's head. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Sheep's Head Broth (a Scottish recipe). Take a large fat young head and a " gang " of trotters, all carefully singed. Wash and scrape them well, and let them'soak in cold water for an hour or two. Take out the eyes, split the head into halves, and remove the brains. Shorten the jaw-bones where there is no flesh, and cut out the gristle inside the nose. Prepare the trotters for dressing [see Sheep's Trotters) , wash and brush both head and feet once more, and leave them in water till wanted. Put the two halves of the head together, and tie a string round it to keep the brains and the tongue in their proper places. Lay it in a saucepan with a pound or two of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, a large cupful of barley, and about half a pint of dried peas -which have been soaked in cold water. Pour over all a gallon of water, and add a little salt ; boil the contents of the stewpan very gently, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. When the head has boiled an hour, put in the trotters, and at the end of two hours add two carrots, two turnijDs, and two onions, all sliced together, with a few sticks of celery, if liked. Boil the head three hours or three hoiu-s and a half longer, and remember that the more slowly it is boiled the better will be broth, head, and soup. Serve the head on a dish with the trotters round it, and garnish with boiled carrots and turnips. Serve the soup in a tureen. Sometimes the brains are not put inside the head, but are thrown into the broth when it is boiling, simmered for a quarter of an hour, and then served on a separate dish, with brown sauce poured over them. If the sheeps' tongues are not wanted immediately, let them cool in the broth. When they are to be ser\ ed, -warm them up in the same, cut them in halves without separating them, and lay them open on a dish. Send piquante sauce to table with them. Time, five to six hours to simmer the sheep's head. Probable cost, from Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. each. Sufficient, one head for two or three persons. Sheep's Head Broth (an English recipe). Skin the head, split it in halves, and remove the brains. Soak the head in water, and wash it well. Put it into a stewpan with half a pound of pearl barley, pour a gallon of -water over it, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Throw in a small handful of salt, with two turnips, two carrots, and two onions, and simmer all gently till the flesh of the head is tender. Lift it out, serve it on a dish, and garnish with turnips and carrots. Serve the soup separately in a tiu-ecn. If liked, the brains can be made into forcemeat-balls, fried, and served in the soup. To make these, clear the brains of fibre, throw them into boiling water, and boil them for ten minutes. Pound them well with a sj oonful of bread-crumbs, a spoonful of fiour, a tea-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, a little grated lemonpeel, a slice of butter, and pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the yolks of two eggs, form it into small cakes, and fry these in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, and add them to the soup. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep's head, Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient, one head for two or three persons. Sheep's Head Curried. Clean a sheep's head thoroughly, remove the brains, and boil till tender. Cut the meat from the bones, divide it into neat slices, skin the tongue, and slice it also. Put the pieces in a saucepan moisten with the liquor in which the head was boiled, and cover the pan until the gra\-y' is made. Mince two onions, and fry them in a little butter, stirring them briskly over the fire till they are soft. If the acid flavour is liked, a soiir apple may be minced and fried with them. Mix a tea-spoonful of curry-powder and a teaspoonful of curry -paste smoothly with a little milk, add three-quarters of a pint of the broth in which the head was boiled, and pour the liquor over the onions. Let them simmer a few minutes, then rub the whole through a SHE (857) SKE sieve. Wash the brains, fi'ee them from fibre, tie them in muslin, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat them smoothly, mix with them a table-spoonful of tiour and three table-spoonfuls of new milk, and stir them into the curry sauce. Stir the mixture gently till it boils, strain it over the meat, add a little salt, and simmer the curry for a few minutes without letting it boil. Serve on a hot dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table with the sheep's head. Time, three hom-s and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two or thi-cc persons. Sheep's Head Fish. A fish that goes under this name is plentiful in the latter part of summer oa some parts of the coast of North America. It is highly esteemed for the table. Its weight is sometimes as much as fourteen or fifteen pounds. A very large fish is sometimes sold in New York for a price equal to four or five pounds sterling. Sheep's Head for Invalids. Wash and clean a sheep's head thoroughly, split it in halves, take out the brains, soak it in lukewarm water for an hour or two, dry it, and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of lean beef. Pour three pints of cold water into the pan, and add a small turnip, half a lettuce or endive, a small lump of sugar, a spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt. Let all simmer gently together for two houi-s, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Cut the meat from the cheeks in neat pieces, small enough to be put into the mouth without being cut, lay these aside, and cover them to keep them moist. Put the bones and trimmings of the head back into the soup, and stir into it a table-spoonful of fine oatmeal which has been beaten to a smooth paste with a cupful of cold water. Simmer the soup for two hours longer, and strain it. Skim away the fat, put the pieces of meat back into the soup, and stir it over the fire till it is quite hot without boiling. A glassful of port may be thrown into the soup before serving. The tongue and the brains may be served separately. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep's head, Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for about a pint and a half of soup. Sheep's Head, Gallimanfried. Split the head, remove the brains, and soak it in lukewarm water for an hour-. Wash and soak the liver and heart, and cut the pipes out of the latter. Dry the meat thoroughly, put it into a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs and two large onions ; cover with cold water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for three hours. Take up the heart and liver, cut these into small pieces, and mince them finely. Put the niinoe into a saucepan, dredge flour thickly over it, and stir it well over the fire with a table-spoonful of any good store sauce, two table-spoonfuls of cream, a slice of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and as much of the liquor in which it was boiled as will moisten it. Put the head in the centre of a hot dish, lay the mince round it, and garnish with toasted sippets. The appearance of the dish will be 58 improved if the head is egged, breaded, and browned before being put on the dish. The brains and tongue may be served on a separate dish. Or the tongue may be served with the head, and the brains may be cleaned, boiled in vinegar and water with a little salt, cut in slices, and placed between the halves of the head {see Sheep's Brains and Tongue). If not objected to, part of the lights may be boiled and minced with the heai-t and liver. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sheep's Head, Hashed. Wash the head, spUt it in halves, and soak it in lukewarm water. Clear the brains from fibre, and leave them in cold water tiU wanted. Put the head and the tongue into a saucepan with two onions and a bunch of sweet hei-bs, cover with cold water, let this boil, skim it, and draw the pan to the side of the fii'e that the head may simmer gently until done enough. Take it up, cut it into neat slices, flour and pepper these, and put them into a clean saucepan with the two onions that were boiled with them finely minced. Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water, and stii' into it half a pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add a large spoonful of any good store sauce and salt and pepper if required. Pour the sauce over the slices of meat, add a spoonful of minced parsley and a spoonful of brown thickening, and let all simmer gently, without boiling, for haK an hour. Serve the hash on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Tie the brains in muslin, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. Mince them, and beat them uj) with a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley, half a cupful of milk, and half a cupful of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Boil them for a few minutes, thicken with flour and butter, and season with pepper and salt. Keep the tongue hot until the last moment. Skin it, lay it in the centre of a dish, pour the brains round, and serve hot. Time, altogether, tkree hours and a half to four hours. Probable cost, sheep's heads. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sheep's Head Pie (a breakfast or luncheon dish). Scald, clean, and boil in the usual way a sheep's head and a gang of trotters. Cut off the meat in neat pieces, and pack these closely in a pie-dish ; season with pepper, salt, and finely-minced onion; lay Little pieces of butter here and there upon them, and pour over them a little of the liquor in which the head and feet were boiled. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake the pie till it is done enough. Let it get cold, take off the crust, and serve it cut into thin slices like brawn. Garnish with parsley. Time to bake, one hour. Sheep's Head Soup. Take two sheep's heads, wash, split, and soak them in lukewarm water, remove the brains, and put them into a stewjian with a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, a turnip, two onions, a leek, three or four sticks of celerj-, a small lump of sugar, a spoonful of mixed mustard, and a little pepper and salt. Pour two quarts of water over all, ( 858 ) SHE tring the liquor to the boil, skim it carefully, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently for two hours. Wash the brains, clear them from fibre, boil them for a quarter of an hour, and beat them till smooth, and put with them a slice of fresh butter, two table-spoonfuls of fine oatmeal, two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir the mixture into the soup, and let it simmer again for two hours. Skin the tongues, and cut them and the meat from the head into neat mouthfuls. Let them heat again iti the soup, add a glassful of hght wine, and serve. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep's heads. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. each. Sufficient for six or eight per SOflS. Sheep's Head, Stuffed and Roasted. ? Instead of skinning the head, scald and scrape it tiU the wool is removed, then split it in halves. Take out the brains whole and the tongue. Cleanse the former from fibre, wash the latter well, and place both in a saucepan. Cover them with cold water mixed with a large spoonful of vinegar, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Take out the ej'es, cut away the gristle from the nose, shorten the jaw-bones where there is no flesh, and soak the head in lukewarm water. Make a little good veal forcemeat, and add to it an onion finely shred and the tongue and brains minced. Bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg, put it into the head, fasten the two halves securely with string, and roast before a clear fire. Baste liberally, and send brown sauce and red-currant jelly to table with the sheep's head. Time to roast, two hours. Probable cost, sheep's heads. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. each. Sufficient for three persons. Sheep's Head, Tongue, and Trotters, Puddings of. The remains of sheep's head, tongue, and trotters may be made into a pudding with suet crust, and boUed in the I usual way. Two or thi-ee sliced walnuts may I be put in with the meat. Sheep's Hearts. Soak the hearts in j ?water, and wash them thoroughly. Cut away the pipes, and tiim them neatly. Fill them with good veal forcemeat, and skewer thin ? slices of fat bacon round them. Eoast before a clear fire, and baste liberally. Thicken a quarter of a pint of stock with a tea-spoonful of ground rice, flavour the sauce with ketchup, season with pepper and salt, and add a glass of wine if liked. Serve the hearts on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and send red-currant jelly to table with them. The stuflSng may be made with the ingTcdients in the following proportions. Shi-ed a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, the hardboiled yolk of an egg, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten them with a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and bind them together with the yolk of a raw egg. This quantity of stufiing will be sufficient for two hearts. If Hked, the strips of bacon can be left ofi", and the hearts tied round with oiled paper, which should be removed about twenty minutes before the heart is taken up, that it may brown. Time to roast the heart, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. each. Sufficient, two hearts for three persons. Sheep's Hearts (another way). Prepare a seasoning as for a duck, viz., onions, sage, bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt. Take one heart, or more if requii-ed ; fill well with the seasoning, and fasten up the aperture with a small iron skewer or needle and thread. Place two or three lumps of sugar, or a little brown sugar, in the bottom of a stewpan with a few drops of water ; when this is dissolved into a brown or bm-nt-looking colouring, add a little more water, with a good-sized lump of butter or di-ipping. Put in the hearts, bm-ning them till they are a rich brown ; add enough stock to nearly cover them, with a fiavoui-ing of a little sauce, pepper, salt, and vinegar, which will give a piquanc}'. Stew slowly for two houi's. Sheep's Hearts {sec Ilcai-ts, Sheep's). Sheep's Hearts, Baked. Prepare and stufl: the hearts as for roasting, and skewer thin slices of fat bacon over them. Put them with the broad end downwards in a dripping-tia, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, jjour a pint of broth round them, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Baste frequently. Take up the hearts, and keep them hot. Skim and strain the gravy, boil it quickly till it is reduced onehalf, thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, and flavom- with store sauce. Place the hearts on a dish, strain the sauce over, and serve. Send red-currant jelly to table as an accompaniment. If liked, an onion can be stewed in the graA y Math the hearts. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, sheep's hearts, lOd. each. Sufficient, two hearts for three persons. Sheep's Hearts, Baked (another way). Stuff the hearts as before, cover with bacon, put them into boiling water, and simmer gently until done enough. Take them up, let them cool, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and cover each one with good pastry. Brush them over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle vermicelli loosely upon them. Bake in a well-heated oven. "When the pastrj- is done enough, serve the hearts on a hot dish, and send brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to boil the hearts, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. each. Sufficient, two for three persons. Sheep's Kidneys. Unless sheep's kidneys can be served quite hot they are not worth eating. Sheep's Kidneys, Broiled. Cut the kidneys in half the long way. Skin them, score "them a little, sprinkle salt and cayenne over them, dip them in clarified butter, and run a skewer through them to keep them from curling on the gridiron. Broil over a clear fire. Take out the skewers, and serve the kidneys on a hot dish with the hoUow part uppermost. Garnish the dish witli parsley. Time to broil the kidneys, eight to twelve minutes, according to size. Probable cost. ( 859 ) SHE 4(1. to 6d. each. Sufficient, thiee or four for a dish {sec Mutton Kidneys). Sheep's Kidneys, Broiled (superior). Broil the kidneys as before. Lay them on a dish with the hollow part ui)pcrmost, and put in the centre of each a tea-spoonful of savoury butter prepared as follows : Put two ounces of fresh butter into a plate, and work into it with a silver or wooden spoon a dessert-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of green onions chopped small, the juice of half a lemon, and a little pepper and salt. Serve immediately. If preferred, a tea-spoonful of tartar sauce {sec Tartar Sauce) may be put into the hollow of the kidney, and Harvey's or Worcester Sauce may be served with it. Time to broil the kidneys, eight to twelve minutes. Probable cost, kidneys 4d. to 6d. each. Sheep's Kidneys, Broiled (M. Ude's recipe). Take some kidnej's that have been kept for a while, cut them iu two, and remove the thin skin that covers them, use a small skewer to keep them open, in imitation of two shells; powder them over with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little melted butter, and broil them just as you are going to serve up. Broil the side that you have cut open fii-st ; when you broil the other side, the whole of the gravy issues to the upper part, llind when you take them off the fire that the gravy does not di-op off. Have some parsley chopped very fine and mixed with fresh butter, the juice of a lemou, pepper, and salt ; put a little of that mixture over each kidney, and send up to table in a hot dish. N.B. Kidneys are an excellent breakfast for sportsmen, but are seldom sent up for dinner. They must be eaten directly, as they lose their goodness by waiting. They have also the disadvantage of being uneatable if they are too much done ; and he who cannot eat meat imderdone should not have them at his table. Sheep's Kidneys, Stewed. Skin and halve half a dozen sheep's kidneys, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch tliick. Fiy these in butter tiU they are lightly browned, dredge a little flour over them, pomin a glassful of sherry, and add a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, three or four mushrooms chopped small, a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the preparation over the fire for five or six minutes, and serve very hot. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, kidneys, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sheep's Kidneys with Champagne, Take six or twelve kidneys, according to the quantity that you wish to dress ; remove the skins, and mince them the thickness and size of a halfpenny ; have a little bit of lean bacon cut in small squares ; fry them in an omelet-pan with a very small bit of butter; when the bacon is of a good colour, put in the kidneys, taking care to move the pan frequently to fi-y them equally ; when they are done, strew over them a little salt and pepper, some parsley chopped very fine, a very small bit of shallot, well chopped also, and pour over all a little flour; stir up with a wooden spoon, then moisten with a glassful of white champagne or chablis (neither madeira nor sherry), which should be very hot, but do not let it boil, otherwise the kidneys will not be eatable ; add a little lemon and a little cayenne, and observe that such dishes should be well seasoned. Serve the kidneys first in the dish with a hoUow siDOon, and let the sauce have one boil to cook the floui- ; miad that the sauce be judiciously thick to add to the meat, but not too thick. Sheep's Liver (a la Fran9aise). Cut some slices of liver half an inch thick, and lay them neatly in a stewpan slightly buttered ; sprinkle pepper and salt over the upper sides. Slice two ounces of fat bacon as finely as possible, chop a tea-spoonful of parsley and a small shallot very fine, and spread them evenly over the liver; cover the stewpan closely, and set it on a fire so moderate that it will draw out all the juices without simmering the least approach to this hardens the liver and spoils it. If the range is too hot, set the stewpan on an iron stand. AVhen the Liver has thus stood for an hour and a half it will be done. Take it up, put it on a hot dish, and cover it closely whilst you boil the bacon and the gravj together for two minutes : then pour over the liver, and serve immediately. Liver cooked in this manner is digestible, and can be eaten by persons who could not ventm-e to do so when it is fried. Sheep's Liver, Fried. Soak the liver, and cut it in slices the third of an inch thick. Dry each slice thoroughly with a soft cloth, flour it well, and sprinkle pepper and salt with a little chopped parsley over it. Heat a little dripping in the frying-pan, put in the liver, and fry it very gently till tender. Turn it occasionally, that it may *be equally cooked. Vhen done enough, liftit upon a hot dish, and pour off the fat from the frying-pan. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with a little cold water, add half a pint of boiling stock or water, and pour the mixtiire into the pan. Stir Ijriskly till it boils, and add a httlc browning, a spoonful of store sauce, and a little pepper and salt. Let it boil a minute or two, then strain it over the liver in the dish. Serve very hot. If liked, a large onion may be sliced and fried with the liver and laid upon it in the dish. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound of liver for two or three persons. Sheep's Mince. Wash and soak a sheep's heart and liver. Cleanse them thoroughly, plunge them into boiling water, and simmer gently about half an hour. Take them up, let them cool, and mince finely. Dissolve a small lump of butter in a saucepan, work into it a little flour to make a smooth paste, stir it briskly over the fire imtU it is lightly browned. ]Mix -with it as much of the liquor in which the liver and heart were boiled as will make sauce of the consistence of thick cream. Add pepper and salt and a dessert-spoonful of chopped onion. Put in the mince, and simmer aU gently together untQ done enough. Stir in a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup or any good store sauce, and serve very hot. The remain? SHE ( 860 ) SHE of sheep's heart and liver may be served in this way. Time to simmer the mince, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep's Tails. Throw the tails into boiling water for fifteen minutes. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover them. Let the stock boil, skim carefully, and put into it a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three onions, a pinch of mixed spice, and a little pepper and salt. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the tails simmer gently for three or four hours. When done enough, drain and bone them, and press them between two dishes till told. Let the gravy cool, remove the fat from the top, strain it, and boil it quickly tUl it is considerably reduced. Cut the ends off the tails, and simmer them in the reduced gravy tin they are heated throughout. Dish them in a circle, and put into the centre sorrel, or ?onion, or lentil, or haricot, or pease puree {see Puree), or brown cucumber sauce, and send brown gravy or tomato sauce to table with them. French cooks, instead of stewing the tails in stock, would braize them with slices of bacon, and equal quantities of mirepoix {see Mirepoix) and veal stock. Time to stew the tails, four hours. Probable cost uncertain, sheep's tails being seldom sold. Sufficient, three or four for a dish. Sheep's Tails and Kidneys. Blanch, trim, and stew the tails, as before, in as much stock as will cover them, and stew with them a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. When the taUs are done enough, take them up, and place them in a circle on a hot dish; put in the centre an equal number of broiled kidneys, and serve in a tureen a sauce prepared as follows: Strain the gravy in which the tails were stewed, thicken with flour and butter, boil it till it is thick enough to coat the spoon, and stir into it the juice of half a lemon. Time, three or four hours to stew the tails. Sheep's Tails, Broiled. Blanch, stew, press, and trim the tails as before. When quite cold, brush them over with oU or beaten egg, and dip them in bread-crumbs. Let them lie a few minutes, then egg and bread-crumb them again. Broil them over a clear fire, or fiy them until they are brightly browned, dish them in a circle, and serve with ravigote jr Valois sauce, or with a sauce made with the stock in which they were stewed, thickened with brown thickening, and flavoured with lemon- juice. Sheep's tails and sheep's tongues (an equal quantity of each) may be stewed and broiled together. The tongues will require to be skinned and split in halves. Time, four hours to stew the tails, a few minutes to broU them. Sheep's Tails with Puree of G-reen Peas. Lay the tails in water to disgorge the blood ; then blanch them, and braize them in an old braize ; otherwise they are to be seasoned with carrots, onions, spices, &c. ANTien done, drain and glaze them. Put the puree of green peas under them ; do the puree of sorrel.- Ude. if you use Sheep's Tails with Rice. Put three or four sheep's tails into boiling- water, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour. Take them up, and lay them side by side in a stewjmn, with sHces of bacon under and over them. Put with them a sliced onion, a scraped carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, and a dozen pejjpercoms ; poiu- upon them as much stock as will barely cover them. Put the lid on the saucepan, and stew the tails very gently until done enough. Boil separately in nicely-flavoured stock a quarter of a pound of well-washed rice. Put haK of this at the bottom of a dish, laj the tails upon it, and cover them with the other half. Strain the gravy, thicken with brown thickening, add a little salt if required, and send it to table in a tureen. Time to simmer the tails, four hom-s. Sheep's Tongues (au Gratin). Sheep's tongues may be bought at the tripe shop either fresh or partially boiled. If fresh, they will need to be soaked in salt and water for a couple of hours, and then boiled for two hours. If partially boiled, they wiU not require to be boiled more than half or three-quarters of an hour, or they may be eaten cold. Boil three or four tongues in as much stock as will cover them, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a little salt and pepper. When the skin will peel off, take them up and skin them. Make as much good veal forcemeat as will cover the bottom of the dish on which the tongues are to be served. Mix a little minced bacon with this, and moisten with the raw yolks of two eggs and a little of the hot liquor in which the tongues are boiled. Make it hot, spread it on a hot dish, drain off anj' particles of fat that may float on the surface, and lay the sheep's tongues, boiled, skinned, and split in halves, on the forcemeat. Strain the gravy, pour a little of it over the tongues, and serve the rest in a tui-een. Sometimes the forcemeat is soaked in the liquor and rubbed thi'ough a hair sieve, and the tongues are gently stewed in the sauce for half an hour, then served on a hot dish with the sauce over and round them. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for five or six jjersons. Sheep's Tongues (au Gratin). Another way. Cut as many bits of bread in the shape of cock's-combs as you have tongues. Take some fine forcemeat. Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish, and dress the tongues in the said forcemeat, leaving, however, room enough between to place one of the toasts ; then put the dish into the oven. When the forcemeat and tongues are done, take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease ; they must be covered with bacon in order that they may not get dry (unless a mould may be procured to close hermetically) ; then put the toasts, or croutons, fried of a fine brown colour, between each tongue, and the sauce with a thick essence. Mind that the tongues must be glazed and braized before with whatever sauce they were served. (861 ) SHE Sheep's Tongues, Broiled. Soak three or four sheep's tongiies in brine for a couple of hours, and boil them till the skin will peel off. Skin them, split them in halves lengthwise, put them into a stewpan, and pour over them as much stock as will barely cover them. Simmer with them an onion, a carrot, three or four heads of celery, a bunch of parsley, and a few mushrooms. Add pepper and salt if required. When they are quite tender (they will be so in about half an hour), take them up and drain them, boil the gravy quickly for a few minutes, brush the tongues with it, and sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs thickly over them. Broil over a clear fire, and when one side is done tui'n them upon the other. Serve on a hot dish : mix the strained juice of half a lemon with the sauce, and pour it over the tongues. Time to broil the tongues, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for thi'ee or four persons. Sheep's Tongues, Broiled (another way). Soak four tongues in salt and water for two hours, and boil them gently in stock till the skin will peel off easily. Skin them, let them get cold, and spUt them in halves lengthwise. Make a savoury mixture thus : Chop six mushi'ooms, and mix with them thi'ee ounces of lean ham cut into dice, a salt-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little salt and cayenne ; a little piece of garlic may be added if liked. Sprinkle this mixture on the inside of the tongues, put them in their original position, cover with oiled papers, and broil over a gentle fire. If the papers are at all unsightly in appearance, remove them. If not, serve the tongues in the papers. Time to broil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, tongues, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for three or four- persons. Sheep's Tongues, Cured. Put fresh tongues into a pickle such as is used for beef and ox-tongues, and let them remain for four days. Take them up, wash them, put them into boihng water, and simmer gently until done enough. Skin them, let them get cold, split them in halves without dividing them, and serve cold for breakfast. Mustard or tartar sauce may be served with them. If there is no beef pickle at hand, wash the tongues, and rub into each one a table-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Turn and rub them with the pickle every day for four days, then proceed as before. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient, one tongue for one person. Sheep's Tongues, Larded and Boasted. Soak and boil four tongues as for broiling. Skin them, and lard the upper portion evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Wrap each tongue separately in a sheet of oiled paper, tie them to a spit, and roast them before a clear fire. "WTien done enough, arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with cut lemon, and send good brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to roast the tongues, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, three or foiu- tongues for a dish. Sheep's Tongues, Stewed. Soak three sheep's tongues in salt :ui(l water for two hours, boil them in stock till tlie skin will peel off easily, and skin them. Let them get cold, then cut them into slices the third of an inch thick. Take half a pint of thick brown sauce nicely seasoned and flavoured. Dip the shces into this, and arrange them in a circle on a dish. Sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs thickly over them, pour a little oiled butter upon them, and brown them in the ?vcn or before the fire. Pour the sauce into the centre of the circle, and garnish the dish with toasted sippets. If brown gravy is not at hand, it may be made as follows : Put half a pint of stock made from bones into a saucepan with a moderate-sized onion or two shallots, a scraped carrot, a bunch of parsley, a clove, and three or four outer sticks of celery. Simmer all gently together for an hour. Strain the gravy, add pepper and salt if required, thicken it with a little brown thickening, stir a glass of port into it, and it will be ready for use. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sheep's Tongues with Cabbage Lettuces. The tongues are first of aU to be braized. Take a dozen and a half of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very clean, and blanch them. When they are cold, and you have squeezed all the water out of them, open them in two, take off the stalks, powder a little salt and pepper over them ; then shut them, and give them a good form ; place them in a stewpan, surrounded with layers of bacon ; moisten them with a httle braize, or anythingto give them a good taste ; otherwise take the pst-top, with a little broth and salt. When the lettuces are quite done, drain them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them in rosettes, first a tongue, then a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a large tongue in the centre to improve the look of the rosette. Another time cut the tongues in two, and dish them miroton way that is, one haK of a tongue, and lettuce, alternately. In this case, put a jardiniere in the centre, and cover both the tongues and the lettuce with Spanish sauce. Ude. Sheep's Tongues, with Turnips. Take eight tongues of an equal size ; let them disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, put them in a stewpan to braize. In case you should have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or any others, they vdU all equally answer the purpose for sheei 's tongues ; when they are done, peel them, and cut them in two. Dish them miroton way, and cover with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. It is customary in French cookery to call anj-thing made with turnips haricot. Sheep's Trotters, or Sheep's Feet. Sheep's trotters may generally be obtained at the tripe shops cleaned and partially boiled. When it is necessary to clean them at home, remove the wool from the hoofs, singe away SHE ( 862 ) SHE the hairs, and put the trotters into 'boiling ?water for five minutes. Clean and scrape them well, and cut an inch oft' the end of the foot, including the hoofs, and carefuUy remove a dark curly-looking substance which grows between the divisions of the hoof. Sheep's trotters are usually sold in sets or gangs, they are wholesome and nourishing, and good jelly may be made from them. They should be kept soaking in cold water two or three hours before they are to be boiled. The liquor in which they are boiled will make excellent stock or jelly. Slieep's Trotters (see Mutton Trotters). Sheep's Trotters (a la Poulette). Take twelve feet, already scalded and cleaned. Boil them quickly for a quarter of an hour, then remove the large bone from each by holding the foot in the left hand, and giving the bone a sharp jerk with the right. Shred four ounces of suet, and put it into a saucepan with two sliced onions, a scraped carrot, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Stir these ingredients over a brisk fire for five minutes, then beat in two table-spoonfuls of flour, and when this is smooth add gradually five pints of water or stock. Stir the liquor till it boils, put in the feet, and let them simmer till quite tender. Take them up, and di-ain them on a sieve. Put four ounces of butter on a plate, and work smoothly into it with the point of a knife a tea-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Heat a gill of milk in a saucepan. Stir the butter in this till it is melted, and add the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with a cupful of milk or cream. Stu- the sauce over the fire, and as it thickens add a table-spoonful of strained lemonjuice. It must on no account boil after the eggs are added. Heat the trotters in the sauce, put them on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serv e. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. If Kked, a few mushrooms or a little ctiopped parsley can be put into the sauce. Time to boil the trotters, three hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for f our or five persons. Sheep's Trotters, Broiled. Boil the trotters as before {sec Sheep's Trotters, a la Poulette). When tender, take out the bones, arid let them get cold. Cut them into neat slices, dip them in clarified butter, then into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Serve with sharp sauce. Time, three hours and a half to boil the trotters. Sheep's Trotters, Jelly from. Jelly made from sheep's trotters is wholesome, noiu-ishing, and inexpensive ; it is particularly suited for invalids and children. Put four " gang" of sheep's trotters into cold water, and let them soak for foiur hours. Cleanse perfectly, and put them into a stewpan with a pound of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted all over to a bright brown, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a small onion, a blade of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Pour upon them two quarts of cold water, and let the liquol- simmer gently by the side of the fire for six or eight hours, or until it is considerably reduced, and will stiffen when cold. Pour it off, strain it thi'ough a jelly-bag, and put it in a cool place to stiffen. Time, eight hours. Sheep's Trotters, Marinaded. Boil a gang of trotters according to the directions already given {see Sheep's Trotters, a la Poulette). Drain them, lot them get cold, and cut them up into neat pieces convenient for serving. Put them into a basin, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over thom, and pour upon them two table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one of oil. Move them about, turn them occasionally, and let them lie in this marinade for an hour. Half an hour before they are to be served, drain the pieces from the pickle, dip them separately in frying-batter, and frj them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. If preferred, instead of being dipped in batter and fried, they may be rolled in bread-crumbs and grilled. Dish them on a napkin, and send tomato sauce or sauce piquant to table with them. The frying batter may be made as follows : Put five oimces of flour into a bowl, and beat it up with a pinch of salt and a quarter of a pint of water. Break two eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the latter with two table-spoonfuls of lucca oil, stir the mixtui-e into the flour, and beat it till it is smooth and thick. Ten minutes before the batter is wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, and add them to it. It should be as thick as cream. A spoonful or two of water may be added if requii-ed. This batter is better if made an hoiu- or two before it is to be used. Time to boil the trotters, thi-ee hours and a half ; to fry the pieces, about ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a small dish. Sheep's Trotters, Pate of. Take a coarse earthen pate-dish which has a closelyfitting cover. Procure three "gang" of sheep's trotters already cleaned and parboiled, and cut each one into three pieces. Boil till tender, and pack them closely in the pate-dish, and, to season them, sprinkle between the layers a little pepper, salt, and powdered spice, together with a moderate proportion of minced onion, chopped parsley, powdered thjnne, bayleaves, and cloves. Place the cover on the dish, and in order to prevent the escape of the steam, fasten it down with a coarse paste made of flour and water. Put the pate in a gentle oven for five or six hours, or if it can be done let it be put in a baker's oven after the bread is drawn, and remain there all night. If gently cooked the feet will be reduced to jelly, and will constitute an excellent dish, which may be served hot or cold. If the oven is too much, heated, the feet will be burnt up, dry, and good for nothing. Time to bake, five or six hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Sheep's Trotters, Simple way of Serving. Stew the trotters gently for throe or four hours till the bones will come out. They may either be boiled in water, or in a sauce made according to the directions already given in Sheep's Trotters a la Poulette. When tender drain them, let them get cold, cut them SHE ( 863 ) SHE in slices, and serve as they are on a dish. Garnish with joarsley, and send oil and vinegar to table with them. Sheep's Trotters, Stuffed. Take some sheep's trotters, as in the recipe Sheep's Trotters, a la Poulette, and stew them in the same manner, but do not let them be overdone, as they are to bo stuffed with a forcemeat, which could not be done in the latter case. Introduce forcemeat for quenelles in the room of the bones. AVhen the trotters are well stuffed, put them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with a poele. Stew them for half an hour only, on account of the forcemeat. Drain them, and cover with a sauce well seasoned, either white or brown, according to taste. As they are to be served whola, when you bone them, mind you do not injure the skin, for they would not hold the forcemeat that you must put in. Observe that this dish is excellent, as well for the taste as for health. It is particularly good for weak stomachs. The sheep's trotters are very good likewise, when they have been done as above, fried in the following way : When they are cold, add some of the sauce to them all round ; then dip them in crumbs of bread, and in an omelet and crumbs again; fry them of a good colour, and serve under tomato sauce. me. Sheep's Trotters with Cucumber. Take two "gang" of sheep's trotters, and boil them till tender. Let them get cold, and divide each one into three pieces. BoU them again to make them hot. Take the skin off one large or two small cucumbers. Cut it into dice, and put it into a basin with a table-spoonful of salt and two table-spoonfuls of vinegCL.. Let it lie for an hour, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a bunch of parsley, two or three young onions, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and, if liked, a piece of garlic the size of a pea. Simmer these ingi-edients very gently for about half an hour. Pour off the butter, and in its place put a spoonful or two of white sauce, or, failing this, of broth thickened with flour. Simmer a few minutes longer, add the yolks of throe eggs beaten up with a quarter of a pint of millc or cream, and stir the sauce till it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, put the trotters on a dish, pour the sauce over, and ser\'e. Time to make the sauce, one hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Shell Fish, Buisson or Thicket of (a pretty supper dish). Four lobsters, a pint of crayfish, and a pint of prawns are needed for this dish. Take a stale loaf of bread, trim away the crust, and cut the crumb to a square block. Hang a lobster on each side of this, with the tail resting on the top of the block and the head in the dish ; cover the empty spaces with parsley, and lay crayfish and prawns upon the parsley. Put prawns and parsley round the buisson, and fasten three or four crayfish on the top of it with silver skewers. Shell-Fish, Edible. Th* chief of these is the oyster full particulars regarding which will be found under the heading Oyster. It may be observed here that oysters are more digestible uncooked than cooked, and more palatable with lemon- juice than vinegar. Both humanity and good taste dictate that they should be eaten as quickly as possible after they are opened. The Scallop {Pecten maximus) is an edible sheU-fish not to be despised. BroUcd and stuffed with forcemeat, and served in its own shells, it not only forms an ornament to the table, but a pleasing variety among the fish. Every one knows the sheU of this fish, which used to be worn on the hat or coat of pilgrims as a mark that they had crossed the sea for the purpose of paying their devotions in the Holy Land. Scallops lie at the bottom of deep water in beds, from which they are dredged up. The Mussel {3Iytihis edulis) is another of the moUusca that furnish a quota of food for the population of these islands. It is not often met with on the tables of the rich, but it is to be seen in the London markets and in the streets where people partake of such luxuries on foot. It was estimated by Professor Forbes that no less than four hundred thousand mussels were consumed annually in Edinbm-gh. They are not so easily digested as oysters, and are generally cooked before being eaten. At times the common mussel is poisonous. This poisonous effect has been attributed to the presence of copper, and in some instances this metal has been detected in the fish which have caused symptoms of poisoning ; in other cases, however, chemistry can give no further explanation of the catastrophe than that " it is probable that there is an animal poison present." The symptoms produced by mussel-poisoning are described by Dr. Taylor as imeasiness and sense of weight at the pit of the stomach, numbness of the extremities, heat and constriction in the mouth and throat, thirst, cramps ; or with swelling of the eyelids, heat and itching of the skin, with nettle-rash eruption ; also vomiting and diarrhoea, with colic. Emetics, followed by sal volatile or stimulants, would be appropriate treatment. Before using mussels, let them lie for some hours in cold water. Scatter in the water a table-spoonful of oatmeal; put them into a saucepan without water, and when the shells are well opened the mussels are done. Serve hot ; eat with vinegar and pepper and bread and butter. A side-dish of mussels may be made in this way : Remove the shells, fry the fish in butter mixed with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Serve with lemon and brown bread and butter. "Another bivalve," says Dr. Lancaster, " sometimes eaten by the inhabitants of our ceasts is the Eazor-Fish {Solcn maximus). This creature would be interesting enough to us if it were not eaten, on account of its long, slightly-curved, and truncated shells, which resemble the blade of a razor. It is not uncommon on oiu: sandy shores, where it lives buried in the sand. It is not difficult to find, as above the spot into which it has retired it leaves an impression of two holes united, something like a keyhole. It is, however, almost SHE (864) SHE to attempt to dig them up, they back away from you so skilfully. After many -vain efforts to secure one of these creatm-es alive, I mentioned my failures to the late Professor Edward Forbes. ' Oh,' he said, with a waggish smile, ' all you have to do is to put a Httle salt over their holes, and they Avill come out.' I remembered the story of putting salt on birds' tails ; and although I resolved secretly to follow my friend's plan, it was so simple I had not the courage to tell him that I would. I had, however, no sooner got to the seaside than I quietly stole to the pantry, and pocketed some salt, and then went alone at low tide to the sandy shore. As soon as I espied a hole I looked round, for I almost fancied I heard my friend chuckle over my shoulder; however, nobody was there, and down went a pinch of salt over the hole. What I now beheld almost staggered me. Was it the ghost of some razor- fish whose head I had chopped off in digging that now rose before me to arraign me for my malice, or was it a real live razor-fish that now raised its long shell at least half out of the sand ? I grasped it, fully expecting it would vanish, but I found I had won my prize. It was a real solid specimen of the species Solen maximus that I had in my hand. I soon had a number of others, which were all carried home in triimiph. Of course, there were more than were required for the purposes of science, and at the suggestion of a Scotch friend the animals not wanted were made into soup. When the soup was brought to table, our Scotch friend vowed it particularly fine, and ate a basinful with at least twenty razor-fish in it. One tablespoonful satisfied the ladies, whilst I and an English friend declared against our consciences, I do verUy believe that we had never eaten anything so excellent. I counted the number of the creatures I was able to swallow ; it amounted to exactly three. After a tumbler of whisky and water taken, of course, medicinally arrangements were made for a di-edge in the morning. The Scotchman was up at five, but I and my English friend could not make our appearance. Nightmare and other symptoms of indigestion had fauiy upset us, and unfitted us for anything so ticklish as a dredging excursion. Now, I do not wish to say anything against razor-fish as an article of diet, but, from what I have told, they would seem to possess an amount of resistance to the ordinary digestive activity of the stomach that would make it highly desirable to ensure, before taking them, such a digestion as a Highlander fresh from his mountain- wUds is known to possess." Another favoirrite bivalve is the Cockle. This sheU-fish is very abundant on most parts of our coast, especially where there is sand, and upon the banks of estuaries. It is highly esteemed both by rich and poor, and by some is preferred to the oyster. It is equally good raw or cooked. It may be boiled or roasted, eaten alone, or as sauce to other fish. It may be eaten with impunity in almost any numbers, and has not unfrequently staved off the pressure of starvation amongst the poor of our coasts. By culture it attains to an immense size. "One of our neglected edible sheU-fish is the Limpet {Patella vulgaris). It is very abundant on aU our coasts wherever there are rocks, and it can be easily procured by the aid of a strong knife. It is a tough morsel, but nutritious withal. The people of Ireland think it a delicacy, and a considerable consumption of limpets as articles of food occurs throughout the country. Next come Periwinkles {Litforina littoria), " pinpatches," as they are called on the coast of Suffolk. On the banks of some of our estuaries they occur in myriads. They are looked upon as a poor man's luxurj', but may be recommended to the notice of everybody. They should be bought alive, boiled, and whilst hot the creatures should be picked out of the shell with a pin, and eaten with vinegar and pepper. They are digestible and nutritious, and by no means to be despised. The Clam is a great favourite in the United States. The business of digging clams is engaged in by a large number of persons on the North-American coasts. There are two varieties the hard-sheUed and the soft-shelled. They are eaten largely in spring, when they are in the best condition. Clams are much prized by persons residing at a distance from the sea-coast, and they are frequently sent into the interior, where they meet with a ready sale, as they can be sold at a very low price. Sherbet is a favourite beverage in the East, universally used among wealthy Mohammedans, to whom the use of wine is forbidden by the Koran. It consists of water, the juice of lemon, orange, or other fruits, with sugar, flavoured further with honey, spices, and even perfumes. Its pleasant acidity blended with sweetness renders it well calculated to assuage thirst in a warm chmate. The poorer classes, who cannot afford to have it so rich, drink water prepared with a little sugar and fruit juice. In India this is carried about in goats' skins for sale. Sherbet Cream. Beat the yolks of three fresh eggs, and mix them vdth two pints of cream. Add a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, or rose water, and stir the cream without ceasing over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out at once, sweeten, and stir it till cold. Freeze in the usual way. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boU the cream. Sufl[icient for two pints and a quarter. Sherbet for Punch. The quality of punch depends in a great measure upon the way in which the sherbet is mixed. The different flavouring ingredients ought to be blended thoroughly before the spirit or wine is put in, and unless this is done the punch will lose in delicacy of flavour. The quantity of vine and spirit used wiU, of course, vary according to taste. Generally two lemons and half a pound of sugar will be sufficient for four quarts of punch. To make the sherbet, rub half a pound of fine sugar in lumjjs upon two large fresh lemons until all the yellow part is taken off. Remove the white bitter skin of the lemons, throw away the pips, and cut the pulp into slices with a silver knife. Put these upon the sugar, and bruise all well together with a wooden spoon. If the lemons are very acid, a SHE ( 865 ) SHE little of the juice may be set aside. When the pulp and sugar are well rubbed together, pour a little boiling water over them, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let the sjTup cool, strain it, and add wine and spirit till the punch is of the requisite strength. Sometimes the rind and juice of a Seville orange are used to make the sherbet as well as the two lemons. Sherbet, Ice. Take half a pound of refined sugar in kmips ; rub these upon the rind of three lemons until the yellow part is rubbed off. Put the sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of two oranges and of the lemons. Add a pint of cold spring water, and stir the mixture until the sugar is quite dissolved. Freeze in the usual way, and serve in glasses. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a pint and a haK of ice. Sherbet, Lemon. Rub one pound and a half of loaf sugar upon nine fresh lemons until the yellow part is taken off. Put the sugar into a bowl, squeeze upon it the juice of the lemons, and add a quart of water. Stir the liquor tiU the sugar is dissolved, strain, and freeze as for ice cream. Sherbet, Lemon (another way). See Lemon Sherbet. Sherbet, Persian {see Persian Sherbet a refreshing summer beverage). Sherbet Powder. Rub half a pound of loaf sugar upon the rind of a lemon till the yellow part is taken oif . Crush the sugar to powder, and mix intimately with it four ounces of tartaric acid and four ounces of bicarbonate of soda. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve ; put it into a dry bottle, and keep it well corked until wanted. If liked, forty or fifty drops of essence of lemon may be used instead of the lemon-rind. The powder must be taken up with a dry tea-spoon. Sufficient for one pound of sherbet. A tea-spoonful of this powder stirred into a tumbler of water will make a refreshing summer drink. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Sherbet, Rich. Grate the thin rinds of fresh lemons with lumps of loaf sugar, and press the juice and pulp out into a bowl, rejecting the seeds. Crush the sugar, rubbing and blending the ingredients with a silver spoon. Then add calf's-feet jelly, newly made, and madeira wine, with any spirit you please. Stir a long while, and after the sherbet has stood two or three hours, filter it until beaxitif uUy clear. Sherbet, Rhubarb (a pleasant summer beverage). Take six or eight sticks of ripe red rhubarb. Wash it well, and without skinning it cut it up into short lengths. Put it into a saucepan with a. quart of water, and let it boil till the flavour is extracted. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon three ounces of fine sugar in lumps. Stir this into the liquor until dissolved. Let the sherbet stand in a cool place five or six hours, filter through muslin, and it will be ready for use. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for tliree or four persons. Sherbet, Strawberry. Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well in a bowl. Mix -with them the strained juice of ??+ lemon and a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and pour upon them three pints of cold spring water. Let them soak for four hours. Powder a pound of white sugar, and put it into another bowl. Squeeze the strawberry liquor into this through muslin, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain it again, and set it on ice tiU wanted. Serve in glasses. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost of strawberries, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Sherbet, Turkish (a wholesome and refreshing beverage). Boil two pounds of loaf sugar with a pint and a haK of water to a clear syrup. Skim carefully, and pour it into a bowl. When cold, stir into it a pint and a half of strained lemon- juice and one quart of white veal stock, clear and strong. Serve in glasses. Sherry [see Wines). Sherry and Hops Cordial {see Hops and Sherry Cordial). Sherry, British (Robinson's recipe). i\Iix well eleven gallons of river water with. thirty-five pounds of strong moist sugar, the whites of twelve eggs well beaten, ?ind six pounds of honey, and boil them slowly, nearly two hours, skimming imtil the'liquor is clear and bright. Pour it boiling hot upon a peck of the young shoots and buds of the sweetbriar, the thin peels of ten Seville oranges and their juice, and ten ounces of gum arable. Stir it well half an hour, and when at the proper temperature work it with fresh yeast, and let it remain four or five days ; then strain it into the cask upon two quarts of the pure juice of Lisbon grapes, ten ounces of sugar-candy broken small, and an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and beaten fine. Keep the bung out as long as the fermentation continues, and the vessel completely filled, and when it is quiet take the scum off the surface, add three pints of French brandy, and stop it up safely for two years or more ; then bottle it, and keep it eighteen months longer, when it will be excellent. Sherry Cobbler. Take half a tumblerful of ice rasped into fine shavangs. Add two moderate-sized lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the yellow part of half a lemon, then crushed to powder, and two glassfuls of sherry. Stir all briskly together, or pass the mixture quickly from one glass to another, and drink the liquor through a straw or glass tube. When time is a consideration, the cobbler can be flavoured by mixing with the ice a quarter of a lemon, or a quarter of an orange cut into small pieces, and adding a spoonful of powdered sugar. By way of variety, a cupful of strawberries or raspberries and a table-spoonful of cura(,'oa, may be substituted for the lemon. Sherry Cream {see Cream, Sherry). Sherry Custard {see Custard, Sherry). Sherry, Granito {see Granite Sherry). Sherry, Wholesomeness of. This wine is free fi-om the astringency of port, and SHI ( 866 ) SHO generally agrees better with persons of weak digestion. To be good it should be free from acid, or nearly so. Shikaree Sauce, for Ducks and Wild Fowl. Mix a tea-spoonful of cayenne with a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and i our over it two glassfuls of mushroom ketchup, two glassfuls of claret, and the strained juice of a large fresh lemon. Stir the hquor over the fire till the sugar is dissolved and it is quite hot. Serve immediately. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Short Bread {see Bread, Short). Short Bread, Scotch. iSTo. i. MLx two pounds of Hour with fom' ounces of moist sugar, two ounces of candied citron, chopped small, and two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sUced. Rub one pound of butter into the flour, melt another half pound of butter, and with this work up the flour to a smooth paste. If a plainer cake is wanted, less butter maybe used. Sometimes the whole of the butter is melted, and then the bread is more easily made. Roll out the pastry to the thickness of an inch, and in a large oval shape, pinch the edges evenly, prick the surface with a fork or skewer, and sprinkle large comfits over the top. Cut the oval across, thus making two cakes, and place these on paper rubbed with flour, and then upon tins. Bake in a moderate oven. When the bread is lightly browned, it is done enough. It should be remembered that the less the bread is kneaded the shorter it will be. No. 2. Rub three-quarters of a pound of fresh unsalted butter into half a pound of flour ; add a quarter of a pound of ground rice, four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, two ounces of candied citron, finely minced, and an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped small. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work the whole into a smooth paste \vith the yolks of two small eggs. Roll the pastiy out to the thickness of half an inch, divide it into four squares, piuch the edges neatly, prick the surface with a " dabber " or fork, sprinkle comfits and sliced citron on the top, and bake as above. Time to bake the bread, half to three-quarters of an hour. Short-bread, Scotch (another way). Put two pounds of butter in some warm place overnight where it will gi-adually become soft without at the same time melting. Take two quarterns of flour, and mix with it half a pound of loaf sugar in powder, and lemon-peel and blanched sweet almonds (in quantities according to taste) cut very fine ; add all these to the butter, and knead the whole till it appears like dough; then add a table-spoonful or two of yeast ; again knead it, and roll out into cakes of the proper size and thickness. Ornament the edges with candied-lemon and comfits, having previously pricked the cakes with a fork. Short Cakes. Ordinary short cakes are simply made of pastry, sweetened with sugar, rolled out to the thickness of three quarters of an inch, cut into pieces of any convenient size, baked, and served hot. These are frequently made in economical households of pastiy that is left after making pies and tarts. Superior short cakes may be made as follows : No. 1. Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour ; add a pinch of salt, four table-si oonfuls of powdered sugar, a beaten egg, and as much milk as will make a smooth paste. Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake these on tins till crisp and lightly coloured. No. 2. Put a pint of floiu- into a basin, and scoop a hollow place out of the centre. Dissolve a little more than half a tea-spoonful of soda in a tea-spoonful of boiling water. Stir this into half a plat of thick sour milk, and beat it weU with a pinch of salt and three ounces of creamed butter. Pour this mixture into the hollow, and stir it with the floiir to form a smooth paste. Roll it out on a floured board to the thickness of the third of an inch, stamp into fancy shapes, and bake these on tins in a brisk oven. No. 3. Rub six ounces of fresh butter into a pound of ground rice ; add a pinch of salt and as much cold water as will make a smooth paste. Roll this out, stamp it into cakes, and bake in a brisk oven. No. 4. Dissolve half a pound of fresh butter in a pint of milk. Stir in as much flour as will make a smooth, light paste. Roll this out to the thiclmoss of a quarter of an inch, cut it into large round cakes, and bake these in a fryingpan over a clear fire. Serve hot. A pinch of salt should be mixed with the flour. Time, ten minutes to bake the small cakes. Short Crust, a Substitute for Puff Paste. When puif paste cannot bo had, pastrj- made according to any of the following ' recipes may be used instead. It should be j made in a cool place and should be handled I very lightly. A moderately-heated oven will j be required for baking it. No. 1. Rub three ! ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour till it is as fine as possible ; add a pinch of salt and two table- spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and make a smooth paste vith two eggs beaten up with milk or cream. Roll out thin. No. 2. Rub three ounces of butter into a pound of floiu- ; add a pinch of salt and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and beat the whole to a smooth paste with a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. No. 3. Rub eight ounces of butter into a pound of floiu-, and add a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and as much milk as will make a firm smooth paste. If a richer ciust is required, ten ounces of butter may be used instead of eight. Short Paste Cake. Put a pound of fine floiir into a basin ; scoop out a hollow in the centre of it, and put into this ten ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a i int of water. Work all together with the fingers, and when necessary add another quarter of a pint of water. To make a smooth, firm paste, gather this together into a lump, and leave it in a cool place for a couple of hours. RoU it out to an oblong shape, an inch and a quai'ter thick. SHR ( 867 ) SHR Score the edges with a knife, and mark it on the top in any fanciful j attcrn. Brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Shred Pie for Christmas. Two centuries ago every well-to-do family partook of a shi'ed pie, a most learned mixture of neats' tongues, chickens, eggs, sugar, raisins, &c. This pie was made at the season of Christmas only, and no modem dish is similar to it. The following is a weU-tried and much-approved recipe, Avhich has been handed down in the same family for generations : " A pound of suet chopped fine, a pound of raisins stoned, a pound of currants cleaned diy, a pound of apples chopped fine, two or three eggs, allspice beat very fine, and sugar to taste, a little salt, and as much brandy or wine as you like." A small piece of citron in each pie is an improvement. Shrewsbury Buckwheat Cakes. Mix a tea-cupful of good brewer's yeast with three pints of warm water; add half a teaspoonful of salt, and stir in as much buckwheat meal as will make a thick batter. Cover the bowl, and set it in a warm place to rise. When it is so light that bubbles appear on the surface, butter a frpng-pan and bake the cakes in it, like pancakes, over a clear fire. A ladleful of the batter will be sufficient for each cake. Butter the cakes while hot, and serve them piled high in the centre of a hot plate, each one with the right side up. The batter will need to rise three or four hours. Shrewsbury Cakes. Sift one pound of powdered sugar into two pounds of flour ; add a grated nutmeg, or a little powdered cinnamon, and an ounce of caraway-seeds. Mix aU thoroughly, then beat in two eggs, the whites and yolks separately, and as much dissolved butter as will form a stiff paste. About eight ounces of butter will be enough. RoU the pastry out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, cut it into round cakes, prick these, and bake on floured tins in a quick oven. If hked, a few currants can be used instead of seeds. Time to bake the cakes, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Shrewsbury Cakes (another way). Take one part of sifted sugar and three parts of flour, and to every pound of sugar add ORe grated nutmeg and three eggs. Mix well, and form these ingredients into a dough with melted butter and a little rose-water. Bake in the usual way. Shrewsbury Cakes (another way). Take two pounds of flour, one pound of powdered sugar, and half a pound of butter. Add to these ingredients four eggs, a little rosewater, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Beat them to a firm paste, roll the paste out thin, cut it into cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Shrewsbury Cakes (another way.) Mix half a pound of butter, well beaten like a cream, and the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar, and half an ounce of caraway-seeds. Form those ingredients into a paste, roll out thin, and lay the cakes in sheets of tins. Bake in a slow oven. Shrewsbury Cakes (another way). Take one pound of flour, haK a pound of butter, half a pound of Lisbon sugar, and two eggs. Mix these ingredients, and form them into a paste with a glassful of white wine. Roll ?ut then, and cut into cakes with a wine-glass. Shrimp. There are several varieties of shrimps, and amongst these the best known are the brown shrimp and the red shrimp. The brown shiimp is the more highly flavoured of the two. It keeps close to the shore, and even affects brackish waters. It is mostly caught by fishermen or women, who wade into the sea, and push a shrimp-net before them. The red shrimp, or rather the pale-pink shrimp, rarely attains to such a size as the brown shrimp does; it is slimmer, in its proportions, and more delicate in flavour. It never enters brackish waters, but keeps well out to sea. It THE SHRIMP. is sometimes called the Yarmouth shrimp, from having been accidentally discovered in Great Yarmouth Roads by some boats employed in recovering lost anchors by a process called " sweeping." Two boats, at a certain distance from each other, proceed up and down the Roads, having a loose rope suspended between them, at the middle of which is fastened a large fish - basket or " swill," partly laden with stones to sink it. By these means the place of the anchor at the bottom of the sea is ascertained, and it is then raised and brought to land. In particular states of the tide, it was found that the swill, when brought to the surface, was filled with an unusual species of shrimp. The hint was taken immediately, and the red shrimp fishery established. Shrimps form a common relish at the breakfast or tea table. When fresly boiled, they are excellent; stale, they are indigestible. Boiled shrimps which are clammy to the touch and exhale a pungent smell, are not fresh, and should be discarded as comparatively worthless. "It was once thought," says Dr. Doran, " that the prawn or shrimp was somehow necessary to the production of soles, acting, it was believed, as a sort of nm-se or foster-parent to the spawn. But this I suppose to be about as true as that soles always swim in pairs, with three-pennyworth of shrimps behind them, ready for sauce." Shrimp and Asparagus Sauce. Take twenty-five asparagus, and cut them into short pieces ; then boil them till tender in a ( 868 ) SHR little weak broth. Boil half a pint of shrimps, separate the fish from the shells, pound the latter, and set them on the fire with a piece of butter for a few minutes. Then strain through a tamis. Add a spoonful of flom- to the shrimp-butter, and thin it with the liquor in which the asparagus was boiled ; set it on the fire with a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a piece of butter. When it boils, put in the shrimps and asparagus, give them a boil up, and serve with boiled fowl, fricassee of chicken or veal, &c. Lobsters may be dressed in the same way. Shrimp Butter, for Sauces, &c. The shells of shrimps which are to be potted, or served in any other way, may be utilised for flavouring butter to be used for making fish sauce, and for garnishing dishes. The butter will not keep good more than a few hours. Put the shells of about two hundred and fifty shrimps in a mortar, pound them as finely as possible, and mix with them two ounces of butter. Put the mixtui-e into a jar, set this in a i an of hot water, and let it remain for an hour. Press it through a cloth, and put it into cold water. Lift it from the liquor, drain it, and press it through a silk sieve ; work a slice of fresh butter in with it, and it will be ready for use. Shrimp Canapees. Cut some slices of stale crumb of bread the third part of an inch thick. Stamp these out with a plain round or oval cutter about two inches in diameter, and fry the rounds in butter till they are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then spread a little shi-imp butter upon them. Ornament them by placing picked shrimps upon them, a,nd place them in a circle on a dish overlapping each other. Put a little parsley in the centre, and serve. Shrimp Comesquis, or Kromeskies. Divide some shelled shrimps into small pieces, put them into a clean saucejian, with a small portion of white sauce, the yolks of two or three eggs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture over the fire for three or four minutes to set the eggs, then spread it an inch thick upon a plate, and leave it to get cold and stiff. Divide it into portions of an equal size, and form these to the shape of corks or balls. Boil half a pound of bacon for twenty minutes; let it get cold, then cut it into very thin slices of a size to cover the shrimp balls. Wrap the balls in the bacon, and, if not immediately wanted, leave them in a cool place. Dip them in frying batter, and fry them in hot lard till they are crisp. Drain them from the fat, and serve immediately. Garnish the dish with parsley. Shrimp Forcemeat. - Mix shelled shrimps with an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, and season the mixture with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Pound it in a mortar, soften with fi-csh butter, and bind together with yolk of egg. Forcemeat thus made is very- excellent for filling anv kind of ! freshwater fish, but is especially suited for pike and eel. Shrimp Patties, or Vol- au- Vents, or Bouch es. Prepare the crusts of the patties, and bake them in the usual way. Pick the shrimps, and cut the tails in two pieces. Put the heads and shells into a saucepan, with a small quantity of water, and boil them gently for a quarter of an hour to extract the flavour. Thicken the liquor with arrowroot, egg yolks, or flour, till it is of the consistency of cream, and with this sauce moisten the shrimps' tails a little. Season the ragout with salt, if necessary, cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg or scraped horseradish, or two or three pounded anchovies ; or leave it without seasoning. For many tastes the natural flavour of the shrimps will surpass aU others. Take the patties or the vol-au-vent fresh from the oven, or if they are cold, heat them, then fill them with the preparation, after making it hot, without boiling it. A glassful of white wine may be added if liked. Send the patties to table on a neatlyfolded napkin. Sometimes shrimp patties are served with bread-crumbs sprinkled over them, and without the pastry covers. Time, a minute or two to heat the patties. Shrimp Pie. Take as many shrimps as will almost fill the dish, pick them, and season with cayenne, pounded mace, a little salt, and vinegar or lemon pickle. A small proportion of essence of anchovies may be added, if liked. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, and line the edges with puff paste. Put in the shrimps, poui' over them a glassful of light wine and a small cupful of rich gravj , xjover the dish with puif paste, and bake in a well-heated oven. For a maigre dish the gravy must be omitted. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of shiimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Shrimp Pie (another way). Pick three pints of shrimps from the shells. Mix with them two or three anchovies, washed, boned, and shi-ed very fine, some shred parslej-, two chopped shallots, and a handful of verj- small bleached mushrooms. Butter well the bottom of a pie-dish with good fresh butter, and put the shrimps into it, seasoning them with a little black pepper and some cayenne ; if not salt enough add a little, making allowance, however, for the salt of the ancho es, for if too salt the pie will be wortliless. Place over the shrimps several lumps of fresh butter, amounting in all to a quarter of a pound, also two hard-boiled eggs, shelled and cut into quarters. Pour into the dish a good glassful of sherry, and also a good glassful of broth, in which has been previously mixed a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of soy. Put a good substantial crust over the pie, and bake in a quick oven. Shrimp Pudding (a Danish recipe). This is made in the same way as spinach pudding {see Spinach Pudding), only instead of using spinach take a pint of picked shrimps. Chop the shrimps small before mixing _ them with the bread and eggs. This pudding is eaten with shrimp and asparagus sauce. Shrimp Pudding (for Breakfast or Luncheon). Take freshly-boiled shrimps, sheU. SHR ( 869 ) SHR them, put them into a pie-dish, and season accordmg; to the directions given for Shrimps, Potted Whole, allowing an ounce and a half of butter for a pint of shrimps. Bake in a slow oven till the butter is melted ; then let the shrimps get cold, mince them with a sharp knife, and pound them to a smooth paste with the butter in which they were baked. Press them into very small cups, and when wanted heat them in a gentle oven ; turn them out upon a dish, and pour rich white sauce round them. If Hked, the sauce can be colouied brightly with lobster coral. Shrimp Salad. Shell a quart of freshlyboiled shrimps, and pile them in the centre of a dish. Boil three eggs hard, and mince the whites and yolks separately. Sprinkle the whites round the shrimps, place a single row of green capers next, and then the chopped yolks. Surround the whole wdth lettuces cut into quarters and with water- cresses, and garnish the dish with gherkins and boiled beet-root, or little pieces of pickled red cabbage. Send salad sauce to table in a boat. Shrimj) Sandwich. Put a layer of potted sluimps between two pieces of white bread and butter, and after pressing the sandwich gently down, cut it with a shai-p knife neatly round the edges. It is usual, before closing in, to spread a little made mustard over the meat. Shrimp Sauce, for Trout, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, &C. No. l. Work two ounces of butter or more or less, according to taste and a table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Add half a pint of boiling water and a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stir the sauce on the fire tiH it is on the point of boiUng. Take it oflE the fire, add a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, a pinch of cayenne, and salt to taste. Throw in a pint of picked shrimps freed from the shells; let them heat three or four minutes on the fire in the sauce till they are tender, but on no account let them boil, as it will make them hard. Serve in a boat. If liked, an ounce of shrimp butter [see Shi-imp Butter) may be dissolved in the sauce, or a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence may be added to it. Xo. 2. Take half a pint of melted butter, made partly of milk and partly of water. Stir into it a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of pounded mace, and a pint of shiimps freed from their shells. Let them heat over the fire for three or four minutes, without boiling, and serve immediately. A little cream makes a delicate addition. Time, three minutes to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Shrimp Sauce (M. Tide's recipe). Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of flour, a small glassful of water, some salt and pepper, and a spoonful of the essence of anchovies ; put this on the stove. As soon as the sauce is thick take it off, and put in the shrimps, after having washed them weU. Never neglect to season sauces; without seasoning the best cookery is good for nothing. Shrimp Sauce (another way). Take half a pint of shrimps, picked and washed very clean, and place them in a stewpan with a spoonful of anchovy sauce, and half a pound of melted butter. Simmer for five miautes, and squeeze in half a lemon. Shrimp Sauce (superior). No. l. Take a pint of stu-imps which have been boiled in plain salt and water, without spice or flavouring of any kind. Pick them, and in doing so, throw the heads and shells into one dish and the flesh into another. Boil the heads and shells gently in two table-spoonfuls of water till the flavour is extracted. Strain the liquor through a sieve, let it stand to settle, then pour it off clear, and free from sediment. Make the third of a pint of melted butter ; stir the liquor I into it and the shrimps, and shake the sauce I over the fire for thi-ee or four minutes till the shrimps are hot and tender, but they must not boil, or they wiU be hard. No seasoning will be requii-ed, and the sauce will be suQiciently colom-ed without anchovy. No. 2. Take the third of a pint of picked shrimps. Pound half of them in a mortar till smooth, and miv with them half a cupful of thick cream, sweet and fresh. Work two ounces of fresh butter and a table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Add half a pint of boiling water, and stir the sauce over the fire for seven or eight minutes. Put in the shrimps, and when they are hot and tender, put in the cream, and serve immediately. Time to simmer, three or four minutes. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Shrimp Soup [see Eel Soup, Brown). Shrimp and Tomato Soup. Boil a pint of shrimps in salted water, flavoured with a bunch of sweet herbs and a large slice of lemon. Drain, cool, and sheU the fish, and preserve a quarter of a pint of the liquor in which they were boiled. SKce a dozen large ripe tomatoes, and stir them over the fire, with four sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a slice of fresh butter, for three or four minutes. A clove of garlic may be added, if liked; and if there is difficulty in procuring the tomatoes, a smaller number must be made to answer. Pour over them as much stock as will cover them, and let them stew gently till quite tender. Rub them through a sieve, and mix with them half a tumblerful of the liquor in which the shi-imps were boiled, and a little more stock, if necessary. Season the soup with cayenne, and let it boil, stu-ring it well tiU it begins to thicken. A few minutes before serving, throw the picked shrimps into the soup. Time, two hours. Sufficient for five or six persons. Shrimps and Asparagus (a Danish recipe). -Scrape twenty-five asparagus of middle size, cut them into ijieccs about an inch long, boil them in half a pint of water and a little salt. When tender, drain them. Pick a pint of boiled shrimps, pound the shells with a little butter, set it on the fire to brown ; by degrees pour over it half a pint of hot water or thin bouillon, and lastly, the water in which the SHB (870) SHR have been boiled. When it has boiled rather less than half an hour, strain it ; set it on the fire again Vidth an ounce of flouimixed in a httle butter, and thinned with some of the warm liquor ; when smooth, add it to the sauce ; let it boil, and then put in the picked shrimps and asparagus, together -with a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a little salt, and, if liked, grated nutmeg ; give it a boil up. Put it into the centre of a dish upon thin slices of toasted bread, or lay fish roulettes round the dish. Lobsters and crabs may be dressed in Hbe manner with a rice border round, and stewed cauliflower mixed with the lobsters. A. von Kochheim. Shrimps and Prawns, Ohoosing of. These fish, when in perfection, afford a pleasant scent, are very lii-m, and their tails turn stiffly inwards. They have a bright colour, when fresh ; but their tails grow Hmp, the brightness of their colour goes off, and they become pale and clammy, when stale. Shrimps, Boiled. Shrimps under-boiled are very indigestible ; over-boiled they are tasteless and unwholesome. The time which they take to boil depends upon the size. When they change colour, taste them, in order to ascertain whether or not they are sufficiently dressed. Shrimps are generally boiled in plain salt and water. M. Soyer reconmiends that a sprig of lemon thyme, a sprig of mint, and a bay-leaf should be boiled with them ; this is a matter of taste. Put from five to six ounces of salt in a gallon of water. Bring it to the boil, skim carefully, and when it is boiling quickly throw in the shi-imps ; or, better still, put them in a wire basket with a handle, place them in the water, and when done enough, lift them out. Draia the water well from them, and spread them out on a clean cloth to cool. Sometimes dwellers on the sea coast recommend that shrimps should be boiled in sea water ; but their flavour is not then so good as when they are boiled in the usual way. Tinie to boil the shrimps, five to seven minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Shrimps, Buttered. Pick a pint of fresh shrimps, and put them into a saucepan, with three-quarters of a pint of good stock and a spoonful of brown thickening, or, if preferred, with the same quantity of white sauce. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and i:)0unded mace, and simmer all gently together till the shi-imps are hot and tender. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the shrimps, three minutes. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Shrimps, Buttered {see Prawns or Shrimps Buttered). Shrimps (en Coqunios). Take some coquiUes, or small silver shells, or failing these, some small shallow dishes. Butter them thickly ; fin them with shrimps which have been cut up small, and stirred into thick white sauce, flavoured with shrimp butter. Sprinkle fi-ied and seasoned bread-crumbs over them, and heat them in the oven or before the fire. Serve the coquilles on a hot dish, and garnish with parslej\ Time, a few minutes to heat the preparation. Shrimps, Forcemeat of [see Forcemeat of Shrimps). Shrimps for Flavouring Fish Soups. Shrimps pounded to paste and pressed through a sieve may be added to almost all kinds of fish soup, and will greatly improve the flavour. Shrimp butter to answer the same purpose may be made of the shells of shrimps {see Shrimp Butter). Shrimps, Lobsters, and Crabs may all be prepared the same way. Boil them for half an houi- over a brisk fire, with a handful of salt in the water, pepper, vinegar, parsley, bayleaves, thyme, and chives. While boiling put a red-hot poker several times into the water to give them a fine colour ; when done, let them remain in the liquor till cold, then take them out, drain them, and rub them with a little butter or oil ; break the claws, and split them thi'ough the back. Shrimps, Potted. Shell a quart of freshly-boUed shrimps. Tlii'ow the shells into a mortar with a little bruised lobster spawn, two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, a pinch of grated nutmeg or poimded mace, and a pinch of cayenne. Pound it well, then put the mixture into a jar. Set this in a pan of boiling water, and stir it over the fire till it is quite hot. Eub it thi-ough a sieve, mix the tails of the shrimps with the pulp, and let all get hot together. Press the mixture into small pots, and let it get cold. Melt a httle butter, and as soon as it begins to set, pour it over the preparation to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and keep the jars in a cool place tUl wanted. If more convenient, the lobster ; spa Ti may be omitted. Shi-imi s are generally I potted in this way, but their delicate flavom- is, perhaps, better preserved when they are potted whole. Time to heat the seasoning, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per jjint. Shrimps, Potted (another way). Boil the shrimps in plenty of salt and water. When cold, shell them, and season -with white pepper, salt, and poimded mace and nutmeg. Then press them into the pots. Place them during ten minutes in a gentle oven ; let them cool, and when cold pour over them clarified butter. Shrimps Potted Whole. Put a pint of freshlj'-boilcd and shelled shrimps into a dish, and sprinkle over them half a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Put an ounce of butter in httle pieces here and there upon them, j and place the dish in a moderate oven till the I butter is melted. Let the shrimps get cold. Press them into jars, and pour upon them butter which has been melted, and is just beginning to set. Keep the jars in a cool place till wanted. Time to bake the shrimps, ten minutes. Shrimps, Stewed. Sheilas many freshly j boiled shrimps as will measure a pint when ? shelled. Bruise the heads and shells, and boil I them gently in a quarter of a pint of light wine, a quarter of a pint of water, and a tea-spoonful 1 of vinegar, with a seasoning of salt, cayenne, SHR (871 ) SIB and mace. Strain the liquor, and let it stand a few minutes. Then pour it oft", freed from sediment, put it back into the saucepan, and thicken it with flour and butter. Put in the fish, and simmer them till they are thoroughly heated. They must not boil, or they will be hard. Toast a slice of bread, cut it into small squares, lay it on a dish, and pour iipon it the fish and sauce. Serve hot. Time to boil the shells, twenty nainutes. Shrimps, To Shell. It may seem trifling, to those who know how to do it, to say anj thing about shelling shrimps ; but when there is a right way and a wi'ong way, it is surely worth while to practise the former. When shrimps are boiled alive, the muscle contracts, and folds the tail beneath the body ; when the tail remains extended after boiling, it is because the shrimp was dead, and it will be found soft and worthless. There is a difference in the shape of the different species of shrimps. The tail of the brown shrimp is quite rounded at the bend, like that of the lobster, whereas the tail of the red shrimp and the prawn presents a sort of knee or angle. To shell a brown shrimp, take the head between I the right finger and thumb, witk the left finger and thumb-nail raise on each side the shell of 1 the tail nearest the head; pinch the tail, and the shell will come away entire. At Honfleui-, and other parts of the Norman coast, the finest brown shi'imps are picked out to be sent to table as plates of hors d'wuvres, while the small ones are shelled, to make patties and vol-au-vents, by women who perform their task with incredible rapiditj'. Comfortably seated on a low, rushbottomed chair, with their feet kept warm in a smaU. tub or keeler, the shelled shrimps fly from their fingers to the basin which receives them almost as if they were discharged in a stream by machinery. To peel red shi-imps and prawns, take the head between the thumb and second finger of the right hand ; take the tij) of the tail between the left finger and thumb ; with the nail of the right forefinger raise the section of the shell which fonns the knee or bend ; pinch the tail, and the naked flesh will be left attached to the head. Shi-imps will not shell easily if they are at all stale. Shropshire Pudding. Take half a pound of stale brown bread, and grate it finely. ]\Iix with the crumbs half a pound of finelj -shred beef-suet, six table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a nutmeg grated, the strained juice and minced rind of a fresh lemon, and the wellbeaten yoLks of four and the whites of two eggs. A spoonful of brandy may be added or not. Mis. the ingredients thoroughly, and turn the mixture into a buttered mould. Tie it in a cloth, plunge it into fast boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. A little melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with brandy, may be sent to table with it. Time to boil, four- hours. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Shrub, Brandy. Cut off in thin strips the rind of a large fresh lemon, and put these in a bottle, with the strained juice of two lemons and two pints of best brandy. Cork the bottle closely, and let it stand in a cool place for four days. Strain it, and mix with it one pint and a half of sherry or Marsala, three-quarters of a pound of clarified loaf sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as will stand on a threepenny piece. Filter the preparation, and it will be ready for use. Tery good milk punch may be made of the di'egs which remain after the shrub is poured oft'. To make it, pour upon the dregs three times the quantity of warm but not boiling milk. Stir the preparation briskly for a few minutes, then leave it in a cool place for three days. Pour off the clear liquor, and strain the thick part through a tamis. Time, four days. Sufiicient for half a gallon of shrub. Shrub, Lemon or Orange. Take two lemons and six Seville oranges, or, if preferred, take eight sweet oranges. Grate oflc the rinds, and squeeze out the juice, then with each quart of juice put three pounds of powdered loaf sugar. Stii- the sugar till it is dissolved, and put two quarts of best Jamaica rum with each quart of juice. Put the mixture into a cask, and shake it three times a day for three weeks. Let it stand in a cool place tiU clear. Filter, and bottle for use. Shrub, Orange or Lemon {see Orange or Lemon Shrub). Shrub, Rum. Put a pint of lemonjuice to five pints of best Jamaica rum. AVith each quart of the mixture put one pound and a half of clarified loaf sugar. Strain, and bottle for use. If Hked, the whole or part of the lemon-rind can be infused in the juice to flavour" it. Shrub, White Currant. Bruise the cm-rants, and put them on a sieve covered with mushn, that the juice may run from them. Dissolve in each quart of juice half a pound of powdered loaf sugar ; add a pint of rum, and bottle for use. Shrub, Whisky. Boil four pounds of Demerara sugar to clear syrup with a pint of water. Skim, carefully, and let it get cold; then mix with it the strained juice of four pounds of lemons, one pound and a haK of SeviUe oranges, half a pint of porter, and a gallon of wliisky. Put it into a jar, and shake it eveiy day for a fortnight. Let it stand till clear, strain it off, and bottle for use. Time, a month to clear the shrub. Siberian Crabs, Preserved. For preserving, the Siberian crabs should be gathered before they are fuUy ripe, as thenfine acidity and agreeable texture are then in perfection; when mellow, they are mealy and juiceless. Fill the jars with them in order to judge what quantity will suffice, put them into a German saucepan of water, and barely scald them ; the moment one of the skins begins to crack, take them off the fire, pour them into a stone colander, peel them (this operation is easily performed, for the peel will curl up as fine, tough, and thin as gold-beater's-skin) ; then, having made a thin syrup, put the fi'uit into the jars and pour it hot upon them, push down the apples as they rise to the surface in order to insure their all coming in contact with SIB (872) SIC the syrup, and set them away uncovered. On the following day pour them all out into a colander, place the syrup in the saucepan with more sugar, so as to insui-e a thick syru]), boil and skim it, and again retui-n it hot over the fruit ; continue to keep the mouths of the jars open, and the next day, if they are soft enough, and the syrup appears sufficiently thick and clear, tie them over with bladder. In a week, look at them, and if any mould or fermentation begin to show, reboil the syrup as before directed. For puddings and pies the Siberian crab cannot be excelled. These apples require neither peeling nor coring, and if used before they become mellow, are juicy and brisk in flavour ; the core remains entire, and imparts a \mique and most delicious flavour ; they are less trouble also than most other fruits from their being dressed whole. Siberian Crabs, To Preserve Whole. No. 1. Boil an inch of cinnamon, three or four cloves, and a small piece of whole ginger in a pint of water till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and make it into syrup by boihng with it for a quarter of an hour a pound of loaf sugar, and let it stand till cold. Put it into a pan, with a pint of Siberian crabs, which have been well wiped with a cloth and i)rickcd with a needle about the stalks, and let all get hot together. Take the preparation off the fire, let it get cold, then heat it again, and repeat this process three times. When the crabs look clear, lift them out, put them into jars, and pour the syi'up over them. Put brandy papers over the top, and cover the fruit in the usual way. If more convenient, the syrup may be boiled on three successive days. No. 2. Take the crabs with an inch or more of stalk, wash them well, and prick them in three or four places round the stalk. Put them into a pan, and pour upon them as much boiling water as will barely cover them. When cold, drain them from the liquor, then boil the liquor with a pound of refined sugar to every pint. When it is thick and clear, poui- it upon the crabs, and let them stand in a cool place for twenty-foirr hours. Put fruit and syrup into a pan, and make both scalding hot. Lift out the fruit, boil up the juice, and pour it upon the crabs. Repeat this process till the fruit looks clear, and be careful in these later boilings to let the syrup get quite cold before it is poured upon the fruit. Put the jam carefully into jars, and cover in the usual way. Time, five or six days. Probable cost, uncertain Siberian crabs being seldom sold. Siberian Crabs {see Crab Apples, Siberian) . Sicilian Biscuits.- Pound half a stick of vanilla, and work it up thoroughly with six ounces of powdered and sifted sugar and two ?weU-beaten eggs. Put the mixture into a copper saucepan, and stir it briskly over a gentle fire until it is warm. Pour it out, and continue stirring until cold. Add five ounces of flour, and mix aU thoroughly together. FiU a biscuit-forcer with the batter, and press it out in fancy shapes upon a baking-sheet. Cover the surface of the biscuits with finelypowdered sugar, and bake in a gentle oven. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Sicilian Sauce, for Fowls, Turkeys, &C. Cut four ounces of lean ham into dice, and simmer gently in a quarter of a pint of water till it is reduced to half the quantity. Strain, stir it into a quarter of a pint of strong stock, then simmer it again with a slice of lemon-rind and j ulp, together half an inch thick, half a tea-spoonful of coriander-seed, and a pinch of powdered mace. At the end of eight or ten minutes add a stick of celery, a pinch of cayenne, and a clove of garlic. If the flavoirr is objected to, the latter article can be omitted, and a shallot or a small onion substituted for it. Simmer all gently together for twenty minutes. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, add a glassful of light wine, and let the sauce boil tiU it coats the spoon. Time altogether, one hour and three-quarters. Sufficient for a good-sized fowl. Sick, Cooking for the. On this subject we have extracted the following observations, which cannot be too widely read, from Miss Florence Nightingale's " Notes on Nursing:" " I wiU mention one or two of the most common errors among those in charge of sick respecting sick diet. One is the belief that beef-tea is the most nourishing of all articles. Now just try and boil down a pound of beef into beef -tea ; evaporate your beef-tea, and see what is left of your beef. You will find that there is barely a tea-spoonful of solid nourishment to half a pint of water in beef-tea. It is quite true that by mincing the beef and then stewing it you can get a larger quantity of solid in the liquor ; but then it is not beef -tea, and there are many patients who could not take it. There is a certain nourishing quaUty in beef -tea we do not know what as there is in tea ; it may safely be given in almost any inflammatory disease, but is little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent where much nom-ishment is required. Again, it is an ever-ready saw that an egg is equivalent to a pound of meat, whereas it is not so at all. Also, it is seldom noticed with how many patients, particularly of nervous or bilious temperament, eggs disagree. All puddings made with eggs are distasteful to them in consequence. An egg whijDped up with wine is often the only form in which they can take this kind of nourishment. Again, if the patient is able to eat meat, it is supposed that to give him meat is the only thing needful for his recovery : whereas scorbutic sores have been actually known to appear among sick persons living in the midst of plenty in England, which could be traced to no other source than this, viz., that the nurse, depending on meat alone, had allowed the patient to be without vegetables for a considerable time, these latter being so badly cooked that he always left them imtouched. Arrowroot is another grand dependence of the nurse. To mix the patient's wine in, being, as it is, quickly prepared, it is aU very well ; but it is nothing but starch and water. Flour is both more nutritive, and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be used. SIC (873) SIC ' ' Again, milk and the preparations of milk arc a- most important articles of food for the sick. Butter is the lightest kind of animal fat, and though it wants some of the things which there are in milk, yet it is most valuable both in itself and in enabling the patient to eat more bread. Flour, oats, groats, rice, barley, and their kind, are, as we have already said, preferable in all their preparations to all the preparations of arrowroot, sago, tapioca, and their kind. Cream, in many long chronic diseases, is quite irreplaceable by any other article whatever. It seems to act in the same manner as beef-tea, and to most people it is much easier of digestion than milk ; in fact, it seldom disagrees. Cheese is not so usually digestible by the sick, but it has great nourishment in it ; and I have seen sick, and not a few either, whose craving for cheese showed how much it was needed by them. " But if fresh milk is so valuable a food for the sick, the least change or sourness in it makes it of all articles, perhaps, the most injurious ; diarrhcea is a common result of fresh milk allowed to become at all sour. The nurse, therefore, ought to exercise her utmost care in this. Buttermilk, a totally different thing, is often very useful, especially in fevers. " Almost all patients in England, young and old, male and female, rich and poor, hos2:)ital and private, dislike sweet things ; and while I have never known a j crson take to sweets when he was ill who disliked them when he was well, I have known many fond of them when in health who in sickness would leave off everything sweet, even to sugar in tea ; sweet puddings, sweet drinks are their aversion; the furred tongue almost always likes what is sharp or pungent. Scorbutic patients are an exception ; they often crave for sweetmeats and jams. "Jelly is another article of diet in great favour with nurses and friends of the sick. Even if it could be eaten solid it would not nourish ; but it is simply the height of folly to take an eighth of an ounce of gelatine, and make it into a certain bulk by dissolving it in water, and then give it to the sick, as if the mere bulk represented nourishment. It is now known that jolly does not nourish, that it has a tendency to produce diarrhcea, and to trust to it to repair the waste of a diseased constitution is simply to starve the sick under pretence of feeding them. If one hundred spoonfuls of jelly were given in the course of the daj-, you would have given one spoonful of gelatine, which spoonful has no nutritive power whatever. "Dr. Christian says 'that every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meatjuice or beef tea repeatedly when they refuse all other kinds of food. This is particularly remarkable in cases of gastric fever, in which,' he says, ' little or nothing else besides beef tea or diluted meat-juice has been taken for weeks or even months, and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely a quai-ter of an ounce of anj'thing but water.' '' A small quantity of beef tea added to other articles of food makes them more nourishing. 59 "The reason why beef tea shouldbe nourishing and jelly not so to the sick is a secret yet imdiscovered, but it clearly shows that observation of the sick is the only clue to the best dietary. "Again, the nourishing power of milk and of the prepai'ations from milk is very much underrated ; there is nearly as much nourish- ment in half a pint of milk as there is in a quarter of a pound of meat. But this is not the whole question, or nearly the whole. The main question is what the patient's stomach can derive nourishment from, and of this the patient's stomach is the sole judge. Chemistry cannot tell this. The patient's stomach must be its own chemist. The diet which will keep the healthy man healthy will kill the sick one. The same beef which is most nutritive of all meat, and which nourishes the healthy man, is the least nourishing of all food to the sick man, whose half-dead stomach can assimilate no part of it, that is, make no food out of it. On a diet of beef tea, healthy men, on the other hand, speedily lose their strength. "I have known patients live for many months without touching bread, because they could not eat baker's bread. These were country patients. Home-made bread or brown bread is an important article of diet for manjpatients. The use of aperients may be entirely superseded by it. Oat-cake is another. " To watch for the opinions, then, which the patient's stomach gives, rather than to read books about foods, is the business of all those who have to settle what the patient is to eat perhaps the most important thing to be provided for him after the air he is to breathe. " A good deal too much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for their tea, you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal; and a great' deal of tea, and especially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restores her patient, thinks that three or fourcups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all ; it is, however, certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup of tea ; ho can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often cannot take anything else if he has it not. I should be very glad if any of the abusers of tea would point out what to give to an English patient after a sleepless night instead of tea. If you give it at five or six o'clock in the morning, he may even sometimes fall asleep after it, and get perhaps his only two or three hours' sleep during "the twentyfour. At the same time, you never should give tea or coffee to the sick, as a rule, after five o'clock in the afternoon. Sleeplessness in the early night is from excitement generally, and is increased by tea or coft'ee; sleeplessness which continues to the early moining is from exhaustion often, and is relieved by tea. The only English patients I have ever known refuse tea, have been typhus cases, and the first sign of their getting better was their carving again SIC (874) SIC for tea. In general, the dry and dirty tongue always prefers tea to coffee, and will quite decline milk, unless witli tea. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a gi-eater impairer of the digestion. Let the patient's taste decide. You will say that ia_ cases of great thirst the patient's craving decides that it will th-ink a great deal of tea, and that you cannot help it. But in those cases be sure that the patient requires dilutents for qiiite other purposes than quenching the thirst ; he wants a great deal of some drink, not only of tea, and the doctor will order what he is to have barley-water or lemonade, or soda-water and milk, as the case may be. " It is often recommended to persons about to go through great fatigue, either from the kind of work, or from their being not in a state fit for it, to eat a piece of bread before they go. I wish the recommenders would themselves try the experiment of taking a piece of bread instead of a cup of tea or coffee as a refresher. They would find it very poor comfort. When men have to set out fasting on fatigue duty, when nurses have to go fasting in to their patients, it is a hot restorative they want, and ought to have, before they go, and not a cold bit of bread and butter. If they can take a bit of bread with the hot cup of tea, so much the better, but not instead of it. The fact that there is more nourishment in bread than in almost anything else has probably induced the mistake. That it is a mistake there is no doubt. ' ' Englishmen and women who have undergone great fatigue, such as taking a long journey without stopping, or sitting up for several mghts in succession, almost always say that they can do it best upon a cup of tea. It is also the best refreshment before going out to a long day's work. "Cocoa is often recommended to the sick instead of tea or coffee. But, independently of the fact that English sick very generally dislike cocoa, it has quite a dift'erent effect from tea or coffee. It is an oily, starchy nut, having no restorative power at all, but simply increasing fat ; it is pure mockery of the sick, therefore, to call it a substitute for tea. For any refreshment it is possessed of, you might just as well offer them chestnuts instead of tea. " An almost universal error among nurses is in the bulk of the food, and especially the drinks, they oft'er to their patients. Suppose a patient were ordered four ounces of brandy during the day ; how is he to take this if you make it into four pints by diluting it ? The same with tea and beef tea, with arrowroot, milk, &c. You have not increased the nourishment, you have not increased the renovating power of these articles by increasing their bulk you have very likely diminished both by giving the patient's digestion more to do, and most likely of all, the patient will leave half of what he has been ordered to take, because he cannot swallow the bulk with which you have been pleased to invest it. It requires very nice observation and care (and meets with hardly any) to determine what will be too thick or strong for the patient to take, while giving him no more than the bulk which he is able to swallow." Various recipes for Invalid Cookery will be found in our pages under their respective headings ; but, for convenience sake, we have added to these remarks of Miss Nightingale a collection of recipes drawn, for the most part, from the " Medical Guide" of Dr. Reece and the well-known cookery-book of ilrs. Rundell : A2}ple Water. Cut two large apples into slices, and pour a quart of boiling water on them, or on roasted apples; strain in two or thi-ee hours, and sweeten slightly. Arrowroot Jelly. Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, a glassful of sherry or a spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar ; boD. once up, then mix it by degrees into a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot previously rubbed smooth with two spoonf ids of cold water ; then, return the whole into the saucepan, stir and boil it three minutes. Arrowroot Fadding. Take a table-spoonful of arrowroot and half a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of which add cold to the arrowroot, stirring it till it is well mixed, then boil the remainder of the half-pint of milk, sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, and while it is boiling hot, add it by degrees to the arrowroot, then boil the whole (stirring it all the time) tiU it becomes thickened, and have ready the yolks and whites of six eggs beaten together, which stir into it. Put all into a buttered basin, and cover with paper. Thea steam it for half an hour. A pudding may be made in the same way, and baked in a dish with a light crust round, and flavoured with, any approved ingredient. Barley Gruel. Wash foirr ounces of pearlbarley, boil it in two quarts of water with a stick of cinnamon till reduced to a quart; strain, and return it to the saucepan with sugar and three-quarters of a pint of port wine. Heat up, and iise as wanted. Barley Water. Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it gently in thi'ee pints of water with a bit of lemon-peel. This is less apt to nauseate than the pearl barley of the following recipe ; but the other is a very pleasant ch'ink. Barley Water (another way). Boil an ounce of pearl barley a few minutes to cleanse, then, put on it a quart of water ; simmer an hour ; when half done put into it a bit of fresh lemonpeel and one bit of sugar. If likely to be too thick, you may put another quarter of a pint of water. Beef, Mutton, and Veal Broth. Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten peppercorns, into a nice tin saucepan with five quarts of water ; simmer to three quarts ; and clear from the fat when cold. Add one onion if approved. Soup and broth made of different kinds of meats are more supporting as well as better flavoured. To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as possible ; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of clean blotting-paper or cap-paper on the broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Beef Tea. Cut in small pieces two pounds weight of fresh lean beef; add three pints of cold water ; when on the eve of boiling, carefully remove the scum ; the moment it bods add a pint of cold water ; then let it boil up SIC (875) SIC again, and remove the scum as before. If by this time it is not perfectly clear, the same (juantity of water may bo added a second time, which will cause more scum to rise. The same remarks apply to all other broths and gravies, which will always be transparent and finely flavoured if the same rule be observed. Beef tea should bo allowed to simmer not less than three-quarters of an hour, and not more than one hour, from the time it is last skimmed. Bread Pudding, Light. Pour some boiling-hot milk on a few thin slices of white bread or the crumb of French rolls ; when cold beat up one whole eg and the yolks of two others, mix them well with the bread, adding a small portion of grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and as much white powdered sugar as will make it palatable. A few. picked currants maybe sometimes added. Put the preparation into a pudding-basin slightly rubbed over with butter, and cover the top with a piece of buttered paper ; then place the basin in a saucepan containing boiling water, and let the pudding steam for half an hour or more, according to its size. Broth, Clear. The following is a clear broth that will keep long. Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks of mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust ; bake till the beef is done enough for eating with only as much water as will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place. When to be used give what flavour may be approved. Broth for Invalids. This may be made in the same way as restorative meat jelly {see Meat Jelly, Restorative), with an old fowl cut in pieces with its own weight in gravy beef. It must only, however, be allowed to simmer two hours. Broth, QuicMg Made. Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, and take off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover with three-quarters of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten and cut in thin bits ; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quickly, skim it nicely ; take off the cover if hkely to be too weak, else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process. Calves' -Feet Broth. Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half ; strain, and set it by. When to be used take off the fat, put a large tea-cupful of the jeUy into a saucepan with half a glassful of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and beat it up till it is ready to boil ; then take a little of it, and beat bj degrees to the yolk of an egg, and adding a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg, stir it all together, but do not let it boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemon into it. Calves -Feet Broth (another way). -Boil two calves' feet, two ounces each of veal and beef, the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt in three quarts of water to three pints ; strain, and take off the fat. Calves' Feet Jelly. Boil two calves' feet in four quarts of water for five hours, then strain the liquor through a hair sieve, and the next day take off all the fat. Whisk the whites and shells of three eggs in a stewpan, then put in the jeUy, and add a small piece of cinnamon, the thin peel of two lemons and the juice of three, with about six or seven ounces of loaf sugar. Put the stewpan on a brisk fire, and whisk its contents till on the eve of boiling, then remove the stewpan, cover it closely, and let it remain near the fire for fifteen minutes, taking care not to allow the jelly to boil. Pass it through the bag in the usual way. If wine be used, it will be better to add it the moment before the jelly is passed through the bag. Caudle. Make a tine smooth gruel of halfgrits; strain it when boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When to be used add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the wine ; others like lemon- juice. Caudle (another way). Boil up half a pint of fine gruel with a bit of butter the #3ize of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a bit of lemon-peel and nutmeg. Caudle (another way). Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put, while it is boiling hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with sugar and mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a giassfiil of wine, and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. This is very agreeable and nourishing. Chicken Broth and Veal Broth. These are prepared in the same way as beef tea, and may be made of any strength desired by adding more or less water. Chicken and veal broth da not require so much skimming as beef tea. Chicken Broth. Put the body and legs of the fowl that chicken-panada was made of, after taking off the skin and rump, into the water it was boiled in with one blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten peiipercoms. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour. If there is not water enough, add a little. Beat a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of water, fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold remove the fat. Chicken, Minced. Take the breast of a cold roast chicken, and mince it finely. Add half a tea-spoonful of fine flour, together with five or six table-spoonfuls of broth. Season with a pinch of salt. If broth is not at hand, substitute new milk. Chicken or Fowl, To Extract the Essence oj. Proceed in the same way as in the recipe Veal, To Extract the Essence of, taking care to chop the bones in pieces, and lay them in the bottom of the jar, placing the meat on the top of them. Take care that the water in the saucepan does not get into the jar when boiling. " The pm-e essence of meat thus extracted is invaluable for weak stomachs and where considerable nutriment is required in a concentrated form. It is also light, and easy of digestion, compared with more glutinous preparations. A single table-spoonful of the essence can be taken by an invalid, and would afford as much sustenance as a quarter-pint of broth." Chicken Panada. Take the breast of a cold chicken, and pound it in a mortar to a very fine paste, then put it into a small stewpan, and add to it, gradually, as much boiUng-hot broth as will make it of the required consistency. Season with a little salt. Place the stewpan on the fire, stu" the contents, but do not let them boil. SIC ( 876 ) SIC ? Chicken Panada. Boil tlie chicken till about three parts ready, in a quart of water, take oli: the skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put it into a marble mortar ; pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in. Season with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon- peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency liked; it should be such as can be di-unk, although tolerably thick. Chicken with Sauce. Prepare the chicken as in the recipe Chicken with Sippets. Serve it up with a delicate sauce made by stirring the yolks of two fresh eggs with a spoonful of water, and then adding them to the gravy of the chicken while hot, but which must not be allowed to boil. C!hicken dressed in this way forms an agreeable repast for an invalid, and is very light for the stomach, and easy of digestion. Chicken with Sippets. Take a small chicken trussed for boiling, and let it soak in a pan of cold water for half an hour. Put it into a small stewpan just large enough to hold it; put in half a pint of cold water, and when it boils cover the saucepan closely, and let it simmer very gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, according to its size. Dish up the chickens in a very hot covered dish, put half a dozen sippets of bread round the bottom, and then strain the broth from the chicken through a fine lawn sieve into the dish, taking care to prevent any fat passing through. Add a little salt, if approved. Eel Broth. Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with three joints of water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a few pej percorns ; let them simmer tiU the eels are broken and the broth good ; add salt, and strain it off. The above should make three half-pints of broth. Egg Wine. Beat an Ggg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water. Set on the fire a glassful of white wine, half a glassful of water, sugar, and nutmeg ; when it boils, pour off a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole be in, stirring it well ; then return the whole into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute ; for if it boils, or the egg be stale, it wiU curdle. Serve with toast. Egg wine may be made as above without warming the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste. Eggs. An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea solely. An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten separately, then mixed with a glassful of wine, wiU afford two very wholesome di-aughts, and prove lighter than when taken together. Gloucester Jelly. Take rice, sago, pearl barley, hartshorn shavings, and eringo-root, each an ounce ; simmer with three pints of water to one, and strain it. When cold it will be a jelly; which give, dissolved in wine, milk, or broth, in change with other nourishment. Isinglass Jelly. Put one ounce of isinglass into a stewpan with a pint of cold water, the thin rind of a fresh lemon, and four ounces of loaf sugar ; the half of the white of an egg beaten on a plate may be added. Put the stewpan on the fire, and occasionally stir its contents. The moment they boil place the stewjian at the corner of the fii-e, and let the jelly simmer very gently for fifteen minutes; then strain through a fine lawn sieve. This jelly may be flavoured with lemon-juice, maraschino, or noyeau. Lemonade. Peel the thin rind of one or two fresh lemons without any of the white part ; put the peel into a j ug, and pour over it a pint of boiUng water ; add four ounces of loaf sugar, and cover the jug closely to keep in the steam. Let it stand till cold, and then add the jiuce of the lemons ; strain through a fine piece of musUn into a clean jug or decanter. Lemon- Water. Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a tea-pot, a little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful of capiUau-e ; pour in a pint of boiling water, and stop it closely for two hours. Light Puddings of Vermicelli., Semolina, Tapioca, Pice, Ground Pice, -c- Whatever substance is used, it must first be boiled tender in milk, then proceeded with as for the other puddings [see Bread Pudding, Light, &c.), always taking care that the substance employed is of a thick consistence before the eggs, &c., are added. All light puddings, either of bread, sponge cake, vermicelli, &c., may be flavoured in various ways by using vaniUa, orangeflowers, cinnamon, almond, or any other approved flavours. Macaroni with Broth. Take a small quantity of real Italian macaroni, and boil it in water till it is just tender. Drain the water off on a hair sieve, then put the macaroni into a stewpan with some of the broth, and let it simmer for flve or six minutes ; season with a little salt, if preferred. Meat Jelly, Pestorative. Take two or three pounds of the knuckle of veal, the same weight of fresh-killed gravy beef, and one calf's foot, cut the meat from the bones, and chop them in pieces; lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, and put the meat on the top of them ; then add as much cold water as will rise two or three inches above the meat ; let the whole simmer gently for four hours, taking great care to remove every particle of scum as it rises in the flrst boiling. Strain through a fine hair sieve, and the next morning the whole of the fat can be taken off. Mutton Broth. This is best made with the scrag-ends of the necks chopped in pieces, then well washed and soaked in warm water to draw out the blood, and allowed to simmer for two hours. 3futton Broth (another way). This is a very supporting broth against any kind of weakness. Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very large handful of chervil, in two quarts of water to one. Take off part of the fat. Any other herbs or roots may be added. Take half a pint four times a day. Orange Jelly. TJae ozdy half a pint of water to one ounce of isinglass, and proceed as in the recijDO Isinglass Jelly. Then rub the rinds of one lemon and of two oranges on a piece of loaf sugar, which must be scraped off into a basin, SIC (877) SIL in which the juice of the lemon and the juice of five or six oranges must be squeezed. Then add the melted isuiglass, and mix well together, ytrain through a fine sieve. Orangeade. Take the thin peel of two oranges and of one lemon ; add the water and sugar the same as for lemonade ; when cold, add the juice of one lemon and of four or five oranges, and strain off. Or e?i;. Beat two ounces of almonds with a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water and a bitter almond or two ; then pour a quart of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten with sugar or capillaire. Panada (made in five minutes). Set a little water on the fire with a glassful of white wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemonpeel ; meanwhile gi'ate some crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keep it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness to drink, take it off. Pork Jelly, Br. RatcUff's Restorative. T&ke a leg of well-fed pork just as cut up, beat it, and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fii-e with three gallons of water, and simmer to one. Let half an ounce each of mace and nutmeg ,stew in it. Strain through a fine sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give a chocolate-cupful the first and last thing and at noon, adding salt to taste. Shank Jelly. Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush and scour them very clean. Lay them in a saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion, twenty Jamaica and thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three quarts of water to them, and set them on a hot hearth close-covered ; let them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off, and put it in a cold place. This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if approved, for flavouring. It is a remarkably good thing for people who are weak. Sippets. On an extremely hot plate put two or three sippets of bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal, if there is no butter in the dish. Sprinkle a little salt over. Spont c-Cake Pudding. Pour boiling milk on six penny sponge cakes, and follow the same directions as for the bread pudding {see Bread Pudding, Light), sometimes adding a few muscatel raisins. Half a wine-glassful of sherry, or a table-spoonful of good brandy may also be added, if approved. Tapioca Jelly. Choose the largest sort, pomcold water on to wash it two or three times, then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes quite clear; then put lemon-juice, -wane, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens veiy much. Tench Broth. JIake in the same, way as eel broth. They are both very nutritious and light of digestion. Toast and Water. Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown and hard, but not the least black ; then plunge it into a jugful of cold water, and cover it over an hour before using. It should be of a fine brown colour before drinking it. Veal Broth (very nourishing). Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with verjhttle meat to it, an old fowl, and foui- shankbones of mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, an onion, a large bit of bread, and thi'ee quarts of water into a stewpot that covers close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it has boiled up and been skimmed ; or bake it ; strain, and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will require four hours. Veal, To Extract the Essence of. Take two pounds of the lean part of the leg of veal, and cut it in pieces, without any of the fat. Wash the meat in cold water, and put it in a white glazed jar or stone jar just large enough to hold the pieces. Add only two table-spoonfuls of water. Cover the jar down closely, and lay it in a saucepan containing boiling water, which must continue to boil on a slow fire for two hours. At the end of that time all the juice or gravy will be extracted, and may be strained off for use. Vermicelli, Italian Paste, and Rice. These are aU to be prepared in the same way as macaroni {see Macaroni with Broth). In this way light and nutritious diet wiU be furnished for an invalid, which will often be retained on the stomach when a more solid substance would be rejected. Water Gruel. Put a large spoonful of oatmeal by degrees into a pint of water, and when smooth boil it. Water-Gruel (another way). Eub smooth a large spoonful of oatmeal with two of water, and pour it into a pint of water boiling on the fire ; stii- it well, and boil quickly, but take care that "it does not boil over. In a quarter of an hour strain it off, and add salt and a bit of butter when eaten. Stir until the butter be incorporated. Wliey. That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially when the cows are in fresh herbage. Wliite Broths loith Vermicelli. Light and delicate white broths may be produced by stirring the yolks of two or three fresh eggs with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, which must then be poui-cd into the hot broth, gently stirring it aU the time, without allowing the broth to boil after the eggs are put in, or they will be curdled. Silver Jelly. If properly made, this jelly will be perfectly clear and colourless. Put an ounce and a half of the best Russian isinglass into a saucepan, and pour over it a pint of cold water. Cover the pan closely, place it on a gentle fire, and let it remain untri the isinglass is dissolved; then pour it out till cool. Rub tlie rind of two fresh lemons large lumps of sugar till taken off. Add sugar to make up to three-quarters of a pound; put this into a bowl, and pour upon it half a pint of strained lemon-juice. Put the dissolved isinglass into a saucepan, and beat briskly into it the sugar and lemon-juice, together with the crushed shells and well-whisked whites of four eggs. Place out tUl COOl. JXUD IS with three or four \ ? the yeUow part is I make up the weight ' SIM ( 878 ) SIP it on a gentle fire, and as soon as it begins to heat, discontinue stirring it, and leave it quite stiU. Let it boil gentlj' for five minutes ; add half a pint of maraschino, and simmer thi-ee or four minutes longer. Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the preparation remain untouched for a quarter of an hour ; then strain it through a jelly-bag tUl it is quite clear. Put it into a mould which has been soaked till the last moment in cold water, and lay it in a cool place to set. Time, ten minutes to boil the jeUy. Probable cost, exclusive of the maraschino, 3s. Sufiicient for about three pints of jeUy. Simnel Cakes. " It is an old custom," says Dr. Chambers, in his " Book of Days," " in Shropshire and Herefordshii-e, and especially at Shrewsbury, to make dui-ing Lent and Easter, and also at Christmas, a sort of rich and expensive cakes, which are called Simnel Cakes. Thej' are raised cakes, the crust of which is made of fine floiu- and water, with sufficient saffron to give it a deej) yellow colour, and the interior is filled with the materials of a very rich plum cake, with plenty of candied lemon-peel and other good things. They are made up \Qvy stiff, tied up in a cloth, and boiled for se ?eral hours, after which they are brushed over with egg, and then baked. ?\\Tien ready for sale, the crust is as hard as if made of wood a circumstance which has given rise to various stories of the manner in which they have at times been treated by persons to whom they were sent as presents, and who had never seen one before : one oidering his Simnel to be boiled to soften it, and a lady taking hers for a footstool. They are made of different sizes, and, as may be supposed from the ingredients, are rather expensive, some large ones selling for as much as half a guinea, or even, we believe, a guinea, while smaller ones may be had for half-a-crown. " The usage of these cakes is evidently one of great antiquity. It appears from one of the epigrams of the poet Herrick that, at the beginning of the seventeenth century, it was the custom at Gloucester for young people to carry Simnels to their mothers on Mid-Lent or Mothering Sunday. It aj pears also from some other writers of this age, that these Simnels, ?like the modern ones, were boiled as weU as baked." Simple Cakes. Rub four ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, tlu-ee table-spoonfuls of finelysifted sugar, and a well-beaten fresh egg. EoU the pastry out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into fancy cakes with a cutter, and bake these upon tins in a weU-heated oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Simple Soup. Cut into very smaU pieces half a pound of turnips, half a pound of carrots, quarter of a pound of onions, three or four sticks of celery, and a lettuce. Put these ingredients into a saucepan which has a very closely-fitting lid with four ounces of dissolved butter, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, if liked. Cover the saucepan, and steam its contents over a gentle fire for twenty minutes. Poirr upon the vegetables three pints of stock made from bones; lot this boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add a pint of freshly-shelled green peas, and simmer all gently together for three hours. Eub the preparation through a sieve, boil it up once more, add pepper and salt, and serve. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufiicient for eight or nine persons. Simple Soup (another way). Take three quarts of good giavy. Put it into a saucepan with two carrots, tiu-ee or four turnips, three or four potatoes, some celery, lettuce, endive, parsley, and a piece of butter, with a httle floui-. Stew till the vegetables become quite tender, so as to peiTiiit them to be rubbed through a sieve, after which let them be put to the soup. Stew again for about a quarter of an hour, and season to taste. If too strong, add a little water. Singe, To (tei-m used in cookery). To singe poudtry or game is to bum off the hairs which remain after the bird is plucked. The most usual way of doing this is to pass a piece of lighted writing-paper over the body of the bu-d till the desired end is attained. The best way is to pass the plucked bird over a lighted spii'it-lamp. When performing the operation care should be taken not to blacken the bu-d. Singhara, or Water H'uts. The large seeds of Trajja bkornis, a native of China, and of Trapa bispinosa and natans, species indigenous to India, are sweet and eatable, and the aquatic plants which furnish them are hence an extensive article of cultivation. In Cashmere and other parts of the East they are common food, and are known under the name of Singhara nuts. From 90,000 to 120,000 loads of this nut are yielded annually by the lake of Ooler alone. The nut abounds in fecula. In China the kernel is used as an article of food, being roasted or boiled like the potato. Sippets for Garnishing Dishes. Ordinary sipj ets are simply made by cutting stale bread into slices the third of an inch thick, toasting these on both sides to a bright brown, cutting them into small three-cornered pieces, and placing them round the dish. When jjroperly made, they are fried in hot fat until brown and crisj), instead of being toasted, and are then ch-ained and dried for use. In order to make them stick to the dish, make a paste with the whisked white of an egg beaten up with a little flour; brush the under part of the sippet ydih the paste, and stick it on the dish. If the latter is very hot, the sippets will not adhere. Sippets for Invalids. Cut a slice of stale bread. Toast it on both sides to a bright brown colour ; cut it into small shapes, and lay these side bj side on a dish. Pour upon them as much strong beef, mutton, or veal gravy, perfectly freed from fat, as they will absorb. Sprinkle a little salt over, and serve. Sippets thus simply prepared are often enjoyed by invalids who "cannot partake of fresh meat. Sippets, Superlative. Cut sHces the third of an inch thick from a stale loaf. Trim away the crust, lay the bread on a dish, and SIR (879) SKA pour upon it as much cream or good milk as it will absorb. Let it soak for an hour, then take it up carefully, and fry it in hot fat till it is lightly bro\vned. Drain, and serve hot. Or cut the crumb of a stale loaf into slices as thin as a sixpence ; stamp these into fancy shapes, and fry in hot fat till crisp. Sippets thus made are useful for making' borders to dishes, and may be fixed in position with a paste made with white of egg and flour. Sirloin of Beef. Choose, in the first place, a well-covered sirloin, not weighingmore than twenty or twenty-four pounds a large piece is never well roasted; the time Avhich it requires causes the outside to be too much done, while the middle remains quite raw. The meat must be covered for one hour only with paper, to prevent its taking too much colour. It is necessary to observe that for large pieces the fire must not be too sharp, or the meat -will be burned before it is warm through. Just before you take it oif the spit spread some fine salt over it, and send it up very hot with gravy only. This joint is often spoiled for the next day's use by an injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside cut, take the brown ofl:, and help yourself to the next ; by thus cutting it only on one side, you preserve the gi-avy in the meat, and the goodly appearance likewise ; by cutting it, on the contraiy, down the middle of the joint, all the gravy runs out, and it remains dry and A'oid of substance, besides exhibiting a most unseemly aspect when brought to table a second time. Ude. Sirloin of Beef, Boasted. The principal observation and direction required with regard to this article is, that it is of all the parts the most delicate ; and when the piece is very big the fire must be more moderate, as it is a long time before the middle becomes warm. If the fire is sharp, the meat will be burnt on the outside and quite raw in the middle. Another necessary observation is, that when you put the spit too low, the meat loses a great deal of the heat, receiving it only from the top : to keep down the colour, it is better to cover it with a few sheets of white paper, and uncover it only when the meat is nearly done. Take care, however, not to cover the meat too closely merely paper the part that faces the fireotherwise the beef will not be roasted, but broiled. Sirloin of Beef, To Carve {sec Beef, Sirloin of. To Carve). Skate. The skate is a fish of the ray tribe, ?excellent and wholesome. It may generally be had at a comparatively low price, and perhaj s on this accoimt is not so highly esteemed as it ought to be. It is more highly valued in ! France than in England. The young skate are called "maids," and their flesh is tender and delicate. Skate improves with being kept a day or two, and should always be skinned however it is dressed. The fin or wing is the part generally used. The liver is much prized. In cool weather the skate is improved by being kept a couple of days, and is still "further improved by crimping, though it should be remembered that it will not keep so well when this is done. Skate is very unwholesome when eaten out of season. Skate (a la Sainte Menehould). Cut the slcate into neat pieces, and simmer it in white sauce till done enough. Lay the fish on a dish, sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs over it and a little grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese. Put it in a brisk oven, or before the fire, till the sui'faco is brightly browned, and serve hot. Skate (au beurre noir an excellent dish). Take about two pounds of white skate, wash it, and boil it in water with salt and a little vinegar ; five minutes before it is done enough, put the liver in -5\dth it, and boil it also. Take up the fish, skin it on both sides, lay it on a hot dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. Dissolve six ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, and stir it over a brisk fire tiU it is brown without being burnt. Throw about fifty leaves of picked parsley into it, and when these are crisp pour the butter over the fish. Put a large wine-glassful of common vinegar into the saucepan with a little pepper and salt. Let it boil for half a minute, pour it all over the fish, and serve very hot. Time altogether, about half an hour. Suflicient for four or five jiersons. Skate, Black Butter for Boiled. Place about six ounces of good fresh butter in a small stewpan ; put it on the fire to melt, and then allow it to fritter so as to acquire a lightbrown colour ; then take it ofl: the stove, sKm it, and pftss it quickly through a sieve into a stewpan containing four table-spoonfuls of French vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of chopped capers, ditto Harvey's Sauce and mushroom ketchup, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and sufiicient pepper and salt to season the sauce. Boil the w hole well together, and use it for boiled skate or boiled mackerel. With whatever kind of fish this sauce is served, fried parsley foims an indispensable adjunct. Francatelli. Skate, Boiled. Let the skate hang a couple of days, then skin it, and cut it into pieces about four inches square some cut out of the thick part, and some out of the thin. Tie the pieces with string to preserve the shape, and put first the thick pieces, and a couple of minutes afterwards the thin pieces, into a kettle with boiling water which has been prepared for the fish by the addition of a handful of salt, two SKA ( 880 ) SKA table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a sHced onion, to a gallon of water. BoU the fish gently until done enough. The time required will depend uixjn the thickness. The liver, which is highly prized, should be boUed separately, and served at the side, or finely chopped and mixed with parsley and butter. Good melted butter flavoured with lemon-juice, caper sauce, shrimp sauce, or anchovy sauce, may aU be served with skate, or there may be a sauce prepared as follows: Dissolve four ounces of butter ia a small saucepan, and stir in with it a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Simmer three minutes, and serve. Time to boil the skate, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb. Skate, Boiled in Stock. Skin a skate, and cut it into square pieces. Take as much stock in which fish has been boiled, or veal stock, as will cover the fish, and simmer it gently for an hour with the trimmings of the fish, the shell of a lobster or crab thoroughly cleansed, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two or three sliced onions. Strain and thicken the stock with brown thickening, and add pepper and salt, a little ketchup and soy, and a glass of claret. Put in the skate, and boil it until done enough. Serve it with the sauce poured over. Time to boil the skate, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Choosing of. Skate varies in quality more than most fish. The best is broad and thick, prickly on the back, with the brown side brown and healthy-looking, and the under side of a delicate creamy whiteness. Large fish are firmer and altogether more profitable than small fish, having more flesh in proportion to the quantity of gristle. The upper skin should be removed, and it should be stripped off from the middle outwards. If skate has a strange smell, unlike the ordinary smell of fish, it should be discarded as dangerous. " Skate," says Dr. Kitchener, " is a very good fish when it is in good season, but no fish so bad when it is otherwise. Those persons who like it firm and dry should have it crimped, but those who like it tender should have it plain, and ate not earlier than the second day ; and, if cold weather, three or four days old it is better ; it cannot be kept too long if perfectly sweet. Skate, if young, cats very fine crimped and fried." Skate, Crimped. Skin the skate on both sides, cut it in strips the length of the fish and an inch broad, roll each length round the finger, and tie it with thread. Lay the rolled strips for an hour or two in salted water mixed with a table-spoonful of vinegar, or in cold spring water. Fish to be crimped should be taken as soon as possible after it is dead. The inhuman practice of crimping it while alive cannot be too strongly deprecated. Crimped skate is generally sold cut in slices, rolled and tied with string, and with a little piece of the liver in each roll. Put the fish into fastboiling salted water, and boil it gently until done enough. Take it up, drain it, remove the string, and serve on a napkin with one of the sauces recommended for boiled skate in a tureen, or without a napkin and with the sauce poiired over it. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Curried. Curried skate requires to be cooked very carefully, or it will drop to pieces. Boil two pounds of skate with a little of the liver ; di'ain it well, and put it on a dish. Whilst it is boiling, slice two onions and a good-sized apple, and fry them in a little butter till soft. Rub them patiently through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a tea-spoonful of cui-ry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground rice, and about a j)int of stock. Boil the sauce, and stir it frequently. When it is thick and smooth pour it iipon the fish in the dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table in a separate dish. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the fish. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb. Skate, Dressed, To Re-dress. Pick the flesh from the boncs, mince finely, and mix with it its bulk in finely-grated breadcrumbs. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; moisten the preparation with butter, and mix in a little chopped parsley. Beat it till smooth, bind it together with yolk of egg, and form it into the shape of corks or balls. Fry these in hot fat, ch'ain them, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to fry, ten minutes. Skate, Fried. Cut the skate into square pieces ; let these lie in cold water with a little vinegar or lemon-juice, a sprig of parsley, and a few peppercorns, for an hour; drain, dry, and flour them, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them slowly in hot fat till they are brightly bro'wned. Send brown sauce, tomato, jjiquant, or caper sauce to table with them. Time, eight to ten minutes, according to thickness. If skate is too much done it is siDoiled. Skate, Fried (another way). Wlien the fish are very small, pickle them in vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some parsley, and lemon-juice, for about an hour. Next di-ain them, and dip them into an omelet, and then into flour. Then fry them in hot drii:)ping, and send them up either with or without sauce. When skate is boiled with marinade, the skin must remain while boiling, otherwise the colour of the marinade will dye the fish ; take off the skin after it is done, and dress it in the dish immediately. Skate, Pried, To Eat Cold. Put the skate into boiling water, and boil it for five minutes ; take it up, drain and dry it, and dip it into egg and bread-crumbs. Fry it slowly in hot fat, let it get cold, and serve garnished with parsley. Send mustard, pepper, and vinegar to table with it. Skate, Marinaded. Remove the skin on both sides, and divide the fish into slices two or three inches long and an inch broad. Lay these in a dish, pour vinegar over them, and add a little pepper and salt, a bunch of parsley, and a sliced onion. Lot the fish soak for some hours ; when wanted, di'ain the pieces, dip them in flour, and fry them slowly in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Send them to table SKA ( S81 ) SKA in a hot dish, garnished with fried parsley. Send caper sauce to table with them. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Plain Boiled. Take off the skin. Boil it in salt and water, and send it up on a clean cloth with shiimp sauce, or any other sauce, in a boat. Skate, Sauces for. The following sauces may all be served with skate : White sauce, melted butter, onion sauce, parsley sauce, shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, tomato sauce, piquant sauce, and liver sauce. Wellmade black butter sauce is excellent with skate. {Sec Skate with Black Butter.) Caper sauce is, perhaps, the sauce most usually served. Skate Soup. The bones of skate arc so delicate and gristly that they can easily be converted to jelly ; consequently, good nourishing soup may be made of this hsh. Clean two pounds of skate, and hang it in the open air for a day ; cut it into smaU neat fillets, and put the trimmings and the head into a saucepan with two quarts of fish stock or water. Let it simmer gently for an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises; then add an onion, a turnip, a btmch of parsley, and a few sticks of celery, and simmer all gently together till the liquor is reduced to one quart. \Vhen this point is reached, the soup may be finished in two ways : either thicken the sauce with a little browTi thickening, add the fillets, simmer them till done enough, and flavour the soup with a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, a glass of sherry, and pepper and salt if required; or drop two ounces of vermicelli into the soup, and when it is done enough, which it will be in a few minutes, mix with the soup a quarter of a pint of cream beaten up with the yolk of an egg, stir it over the fire for eight or ten minutes, but on no account allow it to boil, and serve very hot. When the soup is finished in the latter of these two ways, it is well to boil all the skate in the stock, and thus dispense with the fillets. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pint. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Skate Soup (a meagre soup). Take four pounds of skate, and boil them in four quarts of water till the water is reduced one-half ; then add six onions, some turnips, celery, carrots, sweet herbs, and parsley. When boiled enough, strain, and thicken with butter rolled in flour. Fry the inside of a roll, chop up some of the fish with a little parsley and butter, and add these to the soup before serving. Two or three anchovies, some anchovy sauce, or a red herring may be boiled in this soup without destroying its meagre character. Skate, stewed. Skin the skate on both sides, and cut it into neat pieces ; fry these slowly in hot fat till they arc bro%vn ; take them up, drain them, and lay them aside. Put the head, skin, and trimmings into a saucepan with two pints of water, an onion, and a little pepper and salt. Let the gra\y simmer gently till it is strong, then strain it; put it back into the saucepan, thicken with brown thickening, and add half a dozen chives or a moderate-sized onion finely minced, two table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of Harvey's Sauce. Let the sauce boil till it is thick enough to coat the spoon ; heat the fish in it, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to heat the fish. Skate, Teased. Take the dried wing of a moderate-sized skate, skin it, and cut it into slips about the size of a finger. Put it into water which has been boiled with a little salt and vinegar, and let it boil until done enough. Take it up, put it into a moderately-heated oven, and let it remain until it is quite tender. Draw out the bones, put the flesh into a soft cloth, and rub it between the palms of the hands until it is broken up and looks like wool. Dissolve six ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in the skate, add pepper and salt, and stii- the fish over a gentle fire till it is heated throughout. Send egg sauce, parsnips, and mashed potatoes to table with it. Time altogether, about an hour. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Skate, To Clean and Prepare. Wash the fish, and rub them over with salt. Einsc them, cut off the tails, and pare the fins all round. Hang them in a cool airy situation. They will keep three or four days in cool weather. Skate "With Black Butter. Fry some parsley very green. Dish the skate according to taste. For a first-course dish you must either cut it into the shape of kites or rounds. Put the fried parsley in the middle of the dish, and the butter under the fish. Beurre noire is made in an omelet-pan. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into the pan, and let it become very brown without burning ; skim off the froth ; add to it salt, pepper, and vinegar, and pour this over the fish, and the fried parsley into the centre. This dish does not look well, but it is relishing when well done. Ude. Skate with Black Butter Sauce (excellent). Take about two pounds of white skate. Wash it well, and put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as wiU barely cover it, a cupful of vinegar, a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Bring the liquor gently to the boil, skim it, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for ten minutes. Five minutes before the skate is done enough put in the liver, and boil it also. Take up the skate, drain and trim it, and skin it on both sides. Put it on a dish, sprinkle a little salt and pepper on it, place the Uver on the side, and garnish with fried parslej'. Have ready prepared a little brown butter sauce ; pour this over the fish, and serve immediately. The sauce may be made as follows : Put four ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, and stir it over a sharp fire till it is brown without being burnt. Add two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's Sauce, a table-spoonful of bruised capers, a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Simmer all gently for five minutes, and serve. Time altogether, about three-quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, skate, 4d. to 6d. per pound. SuSicient for four or five persons. SKA ( 882 ) SMA Skate with Caper Sauce. Take two or thi'ee pieces of white skate. Eoll them up, and tie them with string ; then put them into fast-boiling water with salt and. a little vinegar, and boil them gently until done enough. Five minutes before they aie done put in the liver, and boil it -with them. Take up the fish, drain it, and put it on a hot dish. Make threequarters of a pint of good melted butter in a saucepan ; stir into it wMle boihng two tablespoonfuls of bruised capers, pour the sauce over the fish, and serve hot. Time to boil the fish, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per 230 und. Sufficient for four or five persons. Skate, with Caper Sauce (another way). Boil the skate in a vessel with water, vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, parsley, green onions, bay-leaves, and thyme. When done, pick it neatly, and remove it into another clean vessel ; pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling, then di'ain it, and send it up to table, either entire or in pieces, with caper sauce ; or in hearts, covered with the same sauce. Skate with Liver Sauce. Boil the i skate, as in recipe Skate with Black Butter I Sauce. Skim it, serve on a hot dish with- out a napkin, and pour over it a sauce prepared as follows : Boil the liver of the skate -for five minutes, drain it, and bruise it in a mortar. Moisten with a little of the liquor, and rub it through a sieve. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepaii over a brisk fire, and stii- into it three or four mushrooms chopped small, a small bunch of parsley picked and finely shred, and a clove of garlic minced (the latter may be omitted, and a shallot or a small onion may be substituted for it). Dredge a table-spoonful of flour over these ingredients, and add the prepared liver, the flesh of an anchovy, a table- spoonful of bruised capers, and half a pint of stock made from bones. Stu- the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, add a little more thickening if necessary, and poiuit upon the fish. Time altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Skirret. This is a perennial plant, a native of China, known in this country since 1548. The root is composed of fleshy tubers about the size of the little finger, and joined together at the crown or head. They used to be much esteemed in cookery. In the northern districts of Scotland the plant is cultivated under the name of "crummock." The tubers, when boiled, are served with butter. They were declared by Worlidge, in 1682, to be " the sweetest, whitest, and most pleasant of roots." Skirrets come the nearest to parsnips of any of the esculent roots, both for flavour and nutritive quality. They are rather sweeter than the parsnip, and therefore to some few jjalates are not altogether so agreeable. Skirts, Beef, To Stew with Kidneys. An ox kidney, or a pig's kidneys, may be used for this dish. Take equal weights of kidney and beef skirts. Cut the kidneys into slices. Skin the skirts, and divide them into small square pieces. Fry both in beef dripping tiU they are equally and lightly browned. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with as much stock as wiU cover them, a finely-minced onion, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer all very gently together till the meat is tender. Thicken the gravy wdth a little brown thickening; add a table-spoonful of any good store sauce, and serve. Two or three slices of bread, fried till crisp in the same fat as the meat, then cut into sippets, and put round the dish, will be a great improvement. Time, one hour to simmer the meat. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sleeping Cup. Boil half a dozen cloves, half a dozen coriander-seeds, and half an inch of stick cinnamon in half a pint of water till the liquor is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, put it into a tumbler, and stir briskly into it a quarter of a pint of fine old Jamaica rum. Add sugar to taste, and serve. Sloe, or Sloe-Thorn. The leaves of the sloe are used for adulterating tea. The fruit, which is very austere, is much employed on the continent of Europe for making a preserve, and also in some places for making a kind of tea. The juice is much used to impart roughness to port wine, and in the fabrication of spurious port. Sloe Wine. Procure sloes which are sound and ripe. Look them carefully over, and reject all that are bruised and decayed. Pick off the stalks, put the sloes into a large pan, and pour a gallon of boiling water upon every gallon of sloes. Let them soak for five days, stirring them well e\'ery day. Put four pounds of good loaf sugar to each gallon of liquor, and when it is dissolved, put the whole into a cask with a pint of spirit to each gallon and a half of liquor. If the wine is allowed to remain in the cask for a considerable length of time it will become almost equal to port. Time to keep the wine in the cask, at least twelve months. Sly Bread, or Bread Fritters (an economical and excellent sweet dish). Beat three eggs without frothing them ; sweeten and flavour them with lemon-rind, rose or orange -flower water, or any other flavouring, and add a table-spoonful of good brandy or rum. Cut some stale crumb of bread into slices the third of an inch thick, stamp them into small fancy shapes with a cutter, jiut them into the mixture, and let them soak till they have absorbed as much of the egg as possible. Lift them up carefully with a slice, and fry them in hot fat just as pancakes or fritters are fried. Pile them on a dish, sprinkle powdered white sugar thickly over them, and serve verj hot. Few persons at first sight would suspect the composition of this dish, which is simple and good. It may be varied by taking slices of common cake with currants and raisins instead of bread; or, if liked, the bread may first be soaked in milk, and afterwards dipped in the egg batter. Time to fry, about five minutes. Small Birds, Broiled. Pick the birds carefully so as not to tear the slcin. Split them open down the back, flatten them, lay them on a clean gridiron which has been heated and rubbed with mutton suet, the inside to the fire. Place the pan rather high above the fire. When SMA ( 883 ) SME they arc nearly done through turn them, and let them remain until the outside is brightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, butter them, sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and serve quicklj'. A French cook would sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and brush them over with butter, before laying them on the gridiron. Small Birds, Fried. When the birds cannot conveniently be broiled, they may be fried as follows: Pluck the birds carefullj split them open, and flatten them ; sprinkle salt and pepper upon them, and roll them in breadraspings. Dissolve a small slice of fresh butter in a frying-pan ; when it is hot, lay the birds in it, and fry them nicely. Put them on a hot dish. Add a table-spoonful of boihng water to the gra in the pan, let it boil up once, strain it into the dish, and serve very hot. Smelts. The smelt is a small delicatelyflavoured fish, highly esteemed, which, when perfectly fresh and good, possesses an odour, said by some to resemble that of a violet, by others that of a freshly-cut cucumber. It loses this perfume about twelve hours after it is taken. It may be dressed in various waj's, of which frying is the most usual ; it should never be quite plainh boiled, though the recipe for boiling smelts for invalids will be found excellent. Smelts are much used to garnish large fish, such as turbot or cod, but they may also be served alone. "When fresh, the gills are red and the eyes bright and full; the body, too, is of a silvery hue. They are in season from November to May. They should be handled as little as possible; should not be ?washed, but wiped with a soft cloth ; and in drawing them the giUs should be pulled gently out, and the inside with them, as the fish must not bo opened. The roe should be left inside. When split and dried smelts are called sparlings. Smelts, Baked (au Gratin). Take a dozen smelts, clean and dry them, and trim away the fins. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and sprinkle on the bottom finely-grated breadcrumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, finely chopped jiarsley, and shallot. Put the smelts in the dish in a row, sprinkle seasoned breadcrumbs on the tox , and pour upon the fish a glassful of sherry, a little Harvey's Sauce, or a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, and half a teaspoonful of essence of anchovj'. Place little l ieccs of butter here and there on the fish, and bake them in a moderate oven. When done enough, serve the smelts quite hot in the dish in which they were baked. Tin e, a quarter of an hour to bake the smelts. Probable cost, Is. to 2s. per dozen. Sufficient for five or six persons. Smelts, Boiled, for Invalids. Take a couple of large smelts, draw them carefully, and wipe them gently with a soft cloth; put a quarter of a pint of water into a saucepan with a j)inch of salt, a small lump of sugar, and about fifty picked parsley-leaves. When the water boils put in the smelts, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Take them up carefully on a slice, lay them on a dish, and pour the liquor in which they were boiled over them. Be watchful that the fish does not bum to the bottom of the saucepan. If liked, the gravy may be thickened with half a tea-spoonful of arrowroot, to be put with it when the sauce has simmered three minutes. Time to simmer the fish, five minutes, or longer if the smelts are unusually large. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Smelts, Broiled. Draw carefully and wip)e a couple of large smelts, flour them well, and lay them on a gridiron over a gentle fire. "WTien half done turn them carefully upon the other side. When they are done enough put them on a hot dish, sprinlde a little salt upon them, and serve immediately. A cut lemon or a little sauce may be sent to table with them, if preferred. Time, five or six minutes. Probable cost, about 2d. each. Sufiicient for one person. Sm.elts, Choosing of. If smelts be fresh, they will lie very firm, will have a peculiarly strong smell, greatly resembling that of a pared cucumber, and will be of a fine silver hue. Smelts, Fried. Draw and wipe the smelts, trim off the fins, soak them in milk, and flour them well ; or, if preferred, flom- them, and then dip them in beaten egg and bread-raspings.- Fry in hot fat till they are crisp and brown. Take them up carefully with a slice, di'ain them on blotting-paper, sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve on a napkin on a dish. Put half a lemon at each end of the dish, and garnish with, fried parsley. If liked, the lemon may be omitted, and shrimp or anchovy sauce may be served with the smelts. Time to fry the smelts, three to five minutes. Probable cost, Is. to 2s. per dozen. Sufficient, a dozen for five or six persons. Smelts, Fried (another way). Smelts are usually fried. Clean and empty them, wipe them di-y, and dip them into an omelet of two eggs, and into crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry them of a fine colour, and send them to table garnished with fried parslej-. Smelts may be prepared au gratin like soles. SMI (884) SNI Smith's Gingerbread, Mrs. (see Gingerbread, Mrs. f mith'8). Smoked Beef, American. Put the lieef in brine, and turn and rub it every day for 1(11 days. Hang it in a chimney over a savvdust lire or a smothered wood fire, and let it remain for a fortnight. Rub it over in every part with black pepper, and hang it in a cool, dry, airy situation. When once it has been cut keep it covered with thick paper. When it is to be served, pare off the outside skin and shave it into thin chips. If very salt, soak it in lioiling water for a few minutes. With half a pound of beef dissolve a small slice of butter or lard in a frying-pan, stir in the beef, pepper it well, and when it begins to fizz dredge a large tea-spoonful of flour upon it. Pom- over it a quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water ; stir until the sauce thickens, and serve very hot. If preferred, two or three fresh eggs may be broken into the pan with the beef and gravy, and the whole stirred briskly until the eggs are set. Ordinarily- smoked beef is cut into thin chips and served without further dressing. Smoked Meat, Hash of. Take some carrots, and cut them into long strips or little dice; stew them till quite soft in broth with salt and butter. Brown a little flour in butter, and di-ain the broth from the carrots into it. Add to the preparation a little vinegar, sugar, and pepper; stir and boil it till it forms a creamy sauce. Take remains of smoked meat, and cut it into smaU dice or slices ; add this to the carrot, pom- in the sauce, stir the hash well, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour. If liked, a minced onion may be stewed with the carrots. This dish should be served with potatoes or kliJsse. Snail, Edible. The edible snail of the Houth of Europe is found in the chalk and oolite districts of the South of England, where it is said to have been introduced from the Continent in the seventeenth century. This, however, is very doubtful. It has a shell about two inches in diameter and two inches in height, whitish or pale tawny, with four darker bands, often not very distinct. By the ancient Romans it was much esteemed as an article of food : they fattened their snails in enclosures made for the purpose, and fed them daintily on meal and boiled wine. It is still in much esteem for the table in various parts of Emope, and is occasionally used in England. The common garden snail is probably as good eating as the edible snail, though it is not so large. "The glassmen of Newcastle," we are told, " once a year have a snail-feast. They generally collect the snails themselves in the fields and hedges the Sunday before the feastday." Snapdragon. This is a Christmas dish of very easy preparation, and the central feature of a favourite Christmas sport. It is common in England, but in Scotland seems to be comparatively unknown. " A quantity of raisins are deposited in a large dish or bowl "(the broader and shallower this is the better), and brandy or some other spirit is poured over the fruit and ignited. The bystanders now endeavour by turns to grasp a raisin by plunging their hands through the flames ; and as this is somewhat of an arduous feat, requiring both coui-age and rapidity of action, a considerable amount of laughter is evoked at the expense of the unsuccessful competitors." Snipe. The snipe is a migratory bird. Like woodcock, snipes, after being plucked and singed and the head skuuied, are not emptied, but are roasted with everything in them as they succumbed to fate. The thigh is more highly esteemed than any other part. They are in THE SNIPE. season from November to February, but are most abundant and fattest in frosty weather. They frequent marshy meadows, and, during frost, the edges of rushy hiUs, and feed on worms and insects. The snipe is decidedly inferior to the woodcock. Mr. Gallon advises that, when rank birds are shot, they should be skinned, not plucked, as much of the rankness lies in the skin : if unskinned, they should be buried for some hours, because the earth absorbs the oil that makes them rank. The breast and wings are the least objectionable parts, and, if there is abundance of food, should alone be cooked. Snipe Pie (a Danish recipe). Parboil the birds in bouillon and a little white wine, seasoned with a grated onion, pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; make a forcemeat of three poimds of beef, which scrape fine, likewise a quarter of a pound of fat pork ; pound and mix it well together with a little butter and the crumb of two rolls soaked in bouillon ; make rather thinner than for soup-balls ; season it with grated onion, pounded pepper, allspice, cloves, mushrooms, and gherkins chopped fine ; and thin it with some of the broth in which the snipes were parboiled. Line a dish with this forcemeat ; put in the birds with a little of the soup and a small piece of butter; cover with a thick layer of forcemeat ; bake an hoirr and a half. Serve with a sauce as follows : Half a pint of soup, a gill of white wine, a httle water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, stirred till smooth ; when it begins to boil, slice in pickled gherkins or lemon. It may be made in the SNI ( 885 ) S] TI same way with young ducks or pigeons, and eaten hot or cold. Snipes (a la Minute). Pluck three snipes carefully, and truss them for roasting. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, lay the snipes in it side by side and breast downwards, and add two finely-minced shallots, or small onions, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Move the saucepan about over a sharji fire till the birds are lightly browned, pour over them as much good stock and sherry mixed as will barely cover them, and add the strained juice of half a lemon and a small piece of crust of bread finely grated. Simmer all gently together tiU the birds are done enough. Lift them out, and put them on a hot dish. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract in the sauce, stir it over the fire for a minute, and poui- it over the birds. Serve immediately. Time, seven to ten minutes to fiy the bii'ds ; seven to ten minutes to stew them. Probable cost of snii es, very A'ariable. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Snipes, Choosing of. Snipes, like woodcocks, when old have the feet hard and thick ; when these are soft and tender the birds are both young and fresh killed. When the bills become moist and the throats muddy, they have been too long killed. Snipes, Cooked (German fashion). Pluck the bii'ds, skin the head, and remove the eyes. Singe them, and cut off the claws ; twist the legs, disjointing them, and so- bring the feet close to the thighs, and put the long beak through these as a skewer. The position wiU indicate how the breast may be kept thrown up by passing twine roimd the joints and lower part of the body, to tie at the back. Put them in a stewjjan just large enough to hold them with butter enough to keep them basted, turning as they are done on one side till they are tinged all over. About twenty minutes by a brisk heat will cook them. Toast slices of bread, pour on these the butter they were cooked in, and serve the birds on them. Dressed in this way, they are not drawn before the trussing. German National Cookery. Snipes, Gravy for {see Orange Gra\y for Teal, Widgeons, Snipes, Woodcocks, &c.).' Snipes, Potted (a good breakfast dishto be eaten cold). Take some freshly-killed snipes, pluck them carefully, cut off the legs and wings, take away the gizzard, but leave the trail untouched. Cover the bottom and sides of an ordinary potting-pan -nath thin sKces of fat bacon. Place the snipes in this in layers until the dish is almost fuU, and carefully season each layer with salt and pepper. Pour in as much clarified butter as will cover the birds, and lay over the surface of the pan a paste of flour and water, or, if the lid is put on, lay a border of paste round the edge of it to keep in the steam. When the pastry only is used, a little slit should be made in the middle of it with a knife to prevent accidents. Bake the pie in a moderate oven. "WTien done enough, let it got quite cold before serving. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, about an hour and a quarter. Snipes, Pudding of. An excellent pudding may be made with snipes and woodcock, as well as with small wild fowl of various kinds. Pluck and singe a brace of snipes, and divide them into halves. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, and leave the trails untouched. Season the bii-ds with salt and cayenne. Lino a pudding-basin with suet crust. Lay in it a slice of rump steak seasoned with pepper and salt only, put in the snipes, and l lace upon them another slice of rump steak. Pour upon the meat a quarter of a pint of good beef gravj-, cover with pastry, press the edges together s-ith the finger and "thumb, and steam or boil the pudding till done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve very hot. A few slices of trufile may be added to the pudding or not. Time to boil the pudding, an hour and a half. Sufficient for four or five persons. Snipes, Pudding of, Superior. Take four or six fresh sniprs, 2 lnck them, and cut them in halves. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, but put the trails aside till wanted. Season the birds with salt and black pepper; a few drops of lemon- juice may be sprinkled over them or not. Cut a Spanish onion into dice, put it into a saucepan which has been rubbed quickly round with garlic, and fry it in butter till it begins to turn yellow. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon it, and add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, and a. pinch of aromatic powdered herbs {see Herbs, Ai'omatic, Powdered). Stir these ingredients over the fire, and moisten them with half a pint of wine, or with stock fiavoured with wine. Boil all for ten minutes, add the trails, and rub the sauce through a sieve. Lino a pudding-basin with thin suet crust, put in the bu-ds, pour the sauce over them, and add three or foiu- sliced traffics if liked. Cover the pudding with pastry, press the edges closely together, and boil or steam it in the usual way. Turn out carefully, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, an hour and a half. Sufficient, six birds for a good-sized pudding. Snipes, Raised Pie, Hot. Take four snipes,, pluck and singe them, and cut them in two lengthwise. Carefully remove the gizzards with the point of a knife, put the trails aside till wanted, and season the bii'ds with salt and cayenne. Fry the birds' in a saucepan with a little clarified butter till they are set ; they will take about ten minutes. Drain them, and put them in a cool place till wanted. Make a little forcemeat as follows : Cut four ounces of calf's liver and four ounces of fat bacon into dice. Melt the bacon in a saute-pan over a brisk fire, add the liver, and season the mixture with salt, pepper, and a pinch of aromatic powdered herbs. \\Tien the bacon and liver are cooked, put them aside till cold, then pound them till smooth in a mortar, add, whilst pounding, the trails of the birds, and press the paste through a sieve. Butter a moderate-sized pie-mould, Hno it evenly with crust {see Paste for Raised SNI ( 886 ) SNI Pies), and put a layer of the forcemeat in the bottom of the mould, taking care to leave it hollow in the centre. Put half the pieces of snipe in a circle upon the forcemeat, and place a little ball of forcemeat between them to keep them in position. Spread a layer of forcemeat upon them, put in the rest of the birds, and put a layer of forcemeat over all. Fill the hollow in the centre of the pie with bread which has been covered with fat bacon, put the pastrycover on the top, pinch the edges of the pie securely, brush it over with egg, and bake in the oven. When done enough, take off the cover, remove the bread, and fill its place with scalloped truffles. Pour a little good brown sauce over all, pile truffles on the top, and serve. The brown sauce may be made as directed in Snipe Pudding, Superior. Snipes, Roasted. Pluck the birds very carefully so as not to tear the tender skin, and singe and truss without drawing them {see Snipes, To Truss) . Hang the birds feet downwards to a spit, put them to a clear fire, and baste frequently with butter or dripping. When they have been down five minutes, put under them slices of the crumb of bread toasted and buttered on both sides. This toast is intended to catch the dropx ings of the trail, and is considered by epicures a greater delicacy than the bird itself. A slice should be allowed for each snipe. After the toast is put under the birds, a dish should be held under them when they are basted. When they are done enough, which will be when the steam draws to the fire, flour and brown them. Take them up, dish them with a slice of toast under each, and serve without any sauce in the dish with them. If liked, a slice of lemon may accompany the birds, or a little plain melted butter may be sent to table in a tureen. Snipes should be served very hot, or they will be comparatively worthless. They should not be over roasted; indeed, it is said that some epicures consider they are in perfection when they have been simply carried through a hot kitchen. The thigh is the best part. Garnish the dish with watercresses. Some cooks tie slices of bacon round the birds before roasting them. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes ; five minutes less if liked underdone. Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. per brace. Suflicient, four snipes for a dish. Snipes, Roasted (another way). Pluck, singe, and draw the snipes, remove the gizzards, and carefully preserve the trails. Truss the birds, cover them with thin slices of fat bacon, and tie these on seciu-ely with twine. Put them down before a clear fire. Take a slice of the crumb of bread for each bird, and toast and butter it on both sides. Chop the trail, spread it on the toast, and put the slices in a brisk oven. Take the birds up, and dish them on the slices of toast in a hot dish. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Snipes, Roasted, witli Trnfiaes. Pluck, truss, and roast the snipes in the usual way \dth slices of buttered toast under them. When done enough, take them up, and put inside each bird one or two truffles which have been stewed in brown sauce. Send the sauce which remains to table in a tureen, and serve very hot. Snipes, Salmi of. Take the remains of cold dressed snipes, and cut ofiE the meat in neat slices. Bruise the bones and trimmings in a mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, two cloves, a slice of lean undressed ham, a carrot, a table- spoonful of chopped mushrooms, half a dozen peiDpercorns, and a pint of stock. Let these ingredients stew gently together for an hour; strain the sauce, and return it to the saucepan with a slice of fresh butter rolled in flour, and half a tumblerful of claret or madeira, and any remains of toast covered with trail that there may be. Simmer the sauce again until it coats the spoon. Put the slices of snipe into a clean saucepan, strain the sauce over them, and heat them gently by the side of the fire without allowing them to boil. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the birds. Sufficient for three or four persons. Snipes, Superlative. Prepare some forcemeat as follows: Take three ounces of fat bacon and three ounces of fowl's Hver, and cut both into pieces an inch square. Fry the bacon over a sharp fire, move it about constantly, and in three or four minutes add the liver. When this is half done, mince it finely with the bacon, season the mixture with a little prepared seasoning {see Herbs, Aromatic, Powdered), add a little salt and half a clove of garlic if Uked, and pound all in a mortar to a smooth, compact mass. Press it through a wire sieve, and keep it in a cool place if not wanted immediately. Poll out one-half of it with a little flour, form it into a sort of thick band, and arrange it in a circle at the bottom of a dish. Take four partially-roasted snipes, split them open down the back, and spread forcemeat, a quarter of an inch thick, over the inside of each. Lay the birds in the centre of the dish, and cover them lightly with forcemeat. Smooth them with the flat part of a knife which has been dipped in hot water, and put the dish into a quick oven. Wipe away the fat which has come from the forcemeat, pour truffle sauce over the snipes, and serve. Time, twenty-five minutes to bake the entree. Probable cost of snipes, very variable. Sufficient for three persons. Snipes, to Truss. Handle the birds lightly, pluck them carefully so as not to tear the skin, and pick them entirely, neck and head. Do not draw them, but wipe them with a clean soft cloth. Twist the joints of the legs to bring the feet back upon the thighs, and press the legs close to the body. Turn the head under the wing, and pass the bill through the thighs and body. Tie a string round the logs and breast to keep the legs straight, and pass it also round the head and the tip of the bill. Hang the birds to the spit with the feet downwards. SNO (887) SNO Snow. Recipes for the following snows will bo found under their respective headings : Apple Pancakes Apple with Sponge- Potato CAKE Quince Eggs as Snow Rock, Snowy Lemon Euby under Snow. Snow, Apple. This is a Danish dish for dessert. Take twenty large apples, and bake them till tender enough to di-aw off the peel ; rub them through a tamis ; add sugar to taste, pounded cinnamon, and grated lemon-peel. Keep stirring always the same way for a quarter of an hour; beat up the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, add it, and still keep stirring. Fix a hoop on a sheet of paper, butter it, and pour the snow in ; bake in a very cool oven. Apple snow may be iced. Snowball Fritters. Break three fresh eggs into a bowl, take out the specks, and beat them weU. Mix with them three-quarters of a pint of sour cream, and add gradually as much flour as wUl make a batter so stiff that a fork will stand upright in it. Stir into this a quarter of a pint of beer, and add a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a few cardamom seeds. Make half a pound of butter or fat boiling hot in a saute-pan, drop the batter into this from the end of a spoon, and fry the snowballs till they are lightly set. Drain them on a sieve covered with blottingpaper, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Sift powdered sugar thickly over them. The fat in which the fritters were fried should be clarified, and may be used for a similar purpose again and again. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Snowballs (a German recipe). Take a pint and a half of milk, and set it on the fire. \Vhen it boils, throw in a few grated bitter almonds, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two ounces of sugar. Continue stirring, and pour in eight or nine spoonfuls of flour mixed in a httle milk, and keep stirring till it has become a stiff mass which falls from the spoon and saucepan. Take out the preparation, and have ready seven or eight eggs beat up, which add to the paste. Work all well together, butter a baking-tin, and with a spoon drop the paste on it in little balls, which will greatly swell in the baking. Put them in a moderatelyheated oven, and when done strew them thickly with sugar. Snowballs, Apple [see Apple Snowballs). Snowballs, Orange [see Orange Snowballs). Snowballs, Rice. No. l. Wash half a poimd of rice in two or three waters and pick out all imperfect grains. Throw it into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, and boil quickly for ten minutes ; drain, and cool it. Pare five or six large baking apples, and carefully scoop the core without dividing them. Put into the hollow of each a little grated lemonrind or cinnamon and sugar. Divide the rice into as many portions as there are apples, and spread each portion in a cu-cular form on a separate cloth. Lay the fruit in the centre, and tie the cloth to cover the apple with the rice. Put the puddings into boiling water, and keep them boiling quickly until done enough. Turn the snowballs upon a hot dish, strew powdered sugar thickly over them, and send melted butter to table with them. If li]i:ed, oranges, skinned and cleared from the thick white skin, may be substituted for the apples. Time to boU, an hour and a half. Probable cost of snowballs, Id. each. SuQicient for five or six persons. No. 2. Wash and pick half a pound of rice; drain it, and put it into a saucepan, wth a pinch of salt and about a quart of water. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until the water is absorbed. Dip some small moulds or tea-cups into cold water for a moment ; press the boiled rice into them, then turn them in shapes upon a dish, sift powdered sugar thickly over them, and send wine sauce or melted butter to table in a tm-ecn. Time to boU, about an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of wine. Sufficient for four persons. Snowballs, Rice (another way). See Rice Snowballs. Snow Cake. Beat four ounces of fresh, butter to cream ; then add gradually f oiu' ounces of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of arrowroot, and any flavouring that may be liked lemon, almond, or vanilla. Whisk the whites of three eggs to snow, stir them into the mixture, and beat it again till it is light and white. Butter a shallow mould or tin with raised edges, pour in the batter, and bake in a gentle oven. It should not be allowed to acquire any colour. When done enough, let it cool a little, then with a sharp knife divide it into pieces about two inches square. Keep it in a cool, diy place. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, varj-ing with the quality of the arrowroot. Sufficient for a small cake. Snow Cheese. Blanch an ounce and a half of sweet almonds, pound them in a mortar, and add a table-spoonful of ratafia and two table-spoonfids of rose-water. Stir the paste into a quart of thick cream, and add the strained juice of three lemons and as much white sugar as will sweeten the cream pleasantly. Whisk the mixture till it begins to thicken, then pour it into a mould, and set it in a cool place. In twelve hours it will be ready for turning out. Snow Cocoa-nut (to serve with moulded jelly and jam). Break up a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin, and throw the pieces of white meat into cold water for a short time. Grate these on a coarse grater, and pile the snow lightly in a glass dish. Snow Custard (a German recipe). Take a pint of milk, a pint of cream, quarter of a pound of white sugar, and a stick of cinnamon, and set them on the fire ; when the preparation begins to boil, pour in the yolks of ten eggs which have been beaten up in a few spoonfuls of cold milk ; keep it well stirred all the time till it begins again to boil ; then take out SI O ( 888 ) SOD Iko cinnamon, and stir in the whites, which must also have been beaten up ; turn it quickly all the time, that it may not run over ; when it has assumed a thickish appearance, put it into a dish garnished with ratafia cakes and pastry alternately. Snowdon Pudding. Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, one ounce of sago, three ounces of orange marmalade, half a pound of grated breadcrumbs, three well-beaten eggs, and a dessertspoonful of brandy. Beat the ingredients together till the mixture is quite smooth. Butter a mould thickly, diedge a little flour upon it, and stick into it even rows of raisins. Put the pudding into it very gently, and in tablespoonfuls, not to disturb the raisins, lay a round of oiled or buttered paper on the surface, and tie the pudding in a cloth. Steam it until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes after it is taken u]3 before turning it out. Send wine sauce to table with it. If liked, two tablespoonfuls of ajDricot jam may be substituted for the mamialade, and a table- spoonful of ground rice for the sago. Time to boil the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Soda Biscuits. No. 1. Rub a quarter of a poimd of butter into a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt and six table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Whisk two eggs, and stir them into the flour ; add a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in a spoonful of hot milk, and beat the mi.xture till it is smooth and light. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of half an inch, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake immediately in a quick oven. No. 2. Dissolve six ounces of butter, si.x ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate cf soda in a pint of warm milk, and stir into the liquor as much flom" as will form a stiff dough. Knead the pastry till it is smooth and light, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it in rounds and bake immediately. No. 3. Beat the yolk of an egg, mix it with a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a table-spoonful of warm milk ; stir this into the flour, with additional milk, to make a stifl; dough. Knead well, beat with a rolling-pin, and roll the dough out very thin. Stamp it into fancy ?biscuits, and bake these in a moderate oven. When the biscuits are crisp they will be sufficiently baked. Time to bake the biscuits, twelve to twenty minutes. Soda Bread. Mix thoroughly equal parts of tartaric acid and carbonate of soda, and put the mixture aside to be used as required. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of the powder and a pinch of salt in a breakfast-cupful of milk, and stir the liquor into a pound of flour. Knead the dough till it is smooth and light, put it into a tin, and bake the loaf in a brisk oven. Sometimes sour milk or buttermilk is used instead of sweet milk, and then a smaller proportion of tartaric acid is required. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3d. for a loaf this size. Soda Bread (another vfny). See Bread, Soda. Soda Cake. No. l. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour; then add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, or haK a pound of picked and dried currants, half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a teacupful of warm milk. Whisk thi-ee fresh eggs, and mix them with the milk. Beat all well together for a few minutes. Butter the tins, and line them with oiled paper. Pour in the mixture, and bake the cakes in a well-heated, steady oven. If a richer cake is required, the quantity of butter should be increased. As a variety, a quarter of a pound of candied peel or one ounce of pounded sweet almonds may be substituted for the currants, but then a little more soda will be needed. It should be remembered that the cake should be put into the oven immediately after the soda is added, and that it should be thoroughly baked. When done enough, turn it out carefully, and let it rest in a slantingposition on the edge of a basin till cool. If liked, the batter can be sj read half an inch deep in a shallow pan, then cut into squares when done enough. If this plan is adopted, the cake will be baked in twenty minutes. Time to bake, one large cake, one hour and three-quarters; two small cakes, one hour each. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Soda Cake (another way). Rub half a pound of sweet butter into a pound of flour . add a pinch of salt, half a pound of picked and dried cui-rants, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, three ounces of flnely-shred candied peel (lemon, orange, or citron), and two well-beaten eggs. Dissolve a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in the third of a pint of lukewarm milk. Beat the ingredients well together, and bake the cake as quickly as possible after the soda is put in. Turn the dough into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an horn- and three-quarters. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Soda Cakes, Economical. No. i. I Rub six ounces of good beef dripping into a j pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoon' ful of mixed spice, a table-spoonful of caraway, seeds, or a table-spoonful of picked and cb-ied currants, and six ounces of moist sugar. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Add a teaspoonful of \'inegar and half a pint of milk. Bake in a moderate oven. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. No. 2. Rub eight ounces of good beef dripping into two pounds of flour; add t a salt-spoonful of salt, six table- spoonfuls of j sugar, six ounces of picked and dried currants, a little niitmeg or spice, tliree eggs, and a pint of lukewai-m milk, in which a tea-spoonful of I carbonate of soda has been dissolved. Mix ) thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven. ] Time to bake, one hour or more, according to the size of the cakes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Soda Cakes (another way). Take six ounces of butter, and .mix with it one pound of flnur; work it into small crumbs. Mix with this half a pound of sugar, half a pint of boiling SOD ( 889 ) SOL milk, three eggs, a little grated nutmeg, and eight ounces of currants. Beat the whole well and lightly together ; then strew over it a verysmall tea-spoonful of finely-powdered carbonate of soda. Beat the cake again for three or four minutes, and then bake it from one hour to an hour and a half. Soda Cream {sec Cream, Soda). Soda Scones. Make a stiif paste with a pound of flour, a quarter of an ounce of carbonate of soda, and as much buttermilk as is required. Roll this out to the thickness of half an inch, cut it into small three-cornered pieces, and bake these on a girdle over a clear fire. 'Wlien done enough, cut the scones open, butter them with fresh butter, and serve hot. If more convenient, milk a day old may bo substituted for the buttermilk. Soda Water [see Summer Beverages) . Soda Water, Bottled. Take a sufficient number of soda-water bottles, and fill them with clear water ; fit corks to them, then set them down. Lift them one by one, and add half a drachm of carbonate of soda and ten or twelve drops of sulphuric acid. Cork and wire the bottles immediately. Soda water should always be kept in a cool place, with the necks of the bottles downwards. ' Soda Water, Milk and. Heat nearly to boiling a tea-cupful of milk, and dissolve in it a tea-spoonful of refined sugar; put it into a large tumbler, and pour over it twothirds of a bottle of soda water. This is an excellent mode of taking milk when the stomach is charged with acid, and consequently apt to feel oppressed by milk alone. Thomson. Sole. The sole holds a prominent position amongst flat fish, being second to the turbot only in excellence. It is highly esteemed, and -deservedly so, as its flesh is firm and delicate. It is caught in great abundance all the year Tound, and may therefore be almost always obtained in good condition. Soles are best when quite fresh, though in cool weather they 60 may be kept until the sec'ond day without being materially spoiled. In fishing towns they may frequently be bought alive, then killed, and fried immediately. They are then in perfection. The skin of the back is sometimes black and sometimes white, the colour varying with the nature of the ground on which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size, from the little fish called tongues or slips to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds per pair. Those in roe are rather insipid in flavour. They are best filleted. Very large fish may be boiled and served like turbot, which they somewhat resemble in flavour. Soles may be served in a variety of ways, but are best when fried. To prepare them, scale and gut them, and take the skin off the back; wash them well, and be careful to take out the roe ; wash it, and return it to its place, pressing it down upon the bone ; trim the fins ncatlj', drj' the fish perfectly, wrap it in a soft cloth, and leave it in a cool place to stiffen till wanted. When practicable, soles should be cleaned a couple of hours before they are dressed. Sole (a la Colbert). Take a thick sol scale it, draw off the dark skin, and clean it ; with a sharp knife loosen the flesh from the bone on one side, without taking it oflc; make an incision on both sides of the bone down the length of the fish, and with the handle of a knife break it in one or two places, so that when the fish is done enough the bone may be removed without spoiling the appearance of the fish. Replace the flesh on the bone where it has been disturbed ; egg and bread-crumb the fish, let it stand an hour, and then fry in the usual way [see Sole, Fried). When done enough, carefully remove the back bono, and in the cavity thus made place a little maitre d' hotel butter. Serve the fish on a hot dish, garnish ?with parsley, and send a cut lemon, or, if preferred, plain melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce to table with it. The maitre d'hotel butter may be made as follows : Wash a handful of picked parsley-leaves, chop them finely, put them in the corner of a napkin, dip them in cold water, and wring them dry. This second washing will decrease the raw taste of the parsley. Put it in a basin, and with it a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of lemon- juice. Mix the butter with the parsley near the fii-e till it looks like cream, when it will be ready for use. It miist not be melted, or it would turn oily. Time, about twenty minutes to fry a thick fish. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sole ( a la Maitre d' Hotel) . Have two or three soles filleted ; stew the heads and bones in about half a pint of water, place the fillets of the soles in a flat cotelette-pan in about a wine-glassful of this water, simmer two and a half minutes each side ; turn the remainder of the water into sauce, by putting two ounces of butter, a little cayenne and salt and chopped parsley, thickening with arrowroot ; add a tea-spoonful of shallot vinegar, or the squeeze of half a lemon, pour over, and serve. Sole (a la Slenniere). Clean, skin, and empty a fine fresh sole, cut away the fins and SOL ( 890 ) SOL gills, and with a sharp knife make foui- gashes right across it on both sides. Kub into these a little salt and chopped onion ; dip the sole in flour, and broil it over a clear but gentle fii'c. Lay it on a hot dish, rub it well on both sides with a slice of fresh butter which has been mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne, put it in a brisk oven for a minute or two, and serve very hot. Time, ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 6d. Suflicient for three or four persons. Sole (a la Miromesnil). Take thi-ee soles, scale them on both sides, and empty them nicely without injuring the flesh. Make an incision on the black side. Fry them without dipping them into flour. Wlien they are done, drain them on a c'lean cloth, open the place where you have made the incision, cut the bone near the head and tail, and di-aw it out. Let the fish 'cool. Make a steward's sauce cold; that is to say, mix a lump of butter with some parsley chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Divide the butter into three equal parts, and put one part into the opening of each sole ; close the opening, and make the whole stick by means of the yolk of an egg ; put a few crumbs of bread at the joint. Then dip the soles into an omelet of two eggs, and next into crumbs of bread, equally on aU sides. "When dinner-time is come, fry the soles in hot dripping. They are done as soon as they are coloured. The sauce is found in the sole itself. This is what we call in France an entree bourgeoise a city dish. Ude. Sole (au Gratin). This dish is much liked, but as only one sole can be cooked at a time, the guests should not exceed four, unless the fish be a large one. The French have an oblong metal dish, mostly in silver, for the purpose, so that the sole may be served in the dish in which it is cooked. Grease the bottom of the dish with butter to prevent the fish sticking, chop some parsley and a shallot, spread lightly, add some salt and pepper, a little wine or brandy, lay the sole upon it, spread over the same things on the top of the sole, and some lumps of butter, with some button mushrooms, or a table-spoonful of ketchup and a little of any gravy that may be at hand ; rasp over some bread-crumbs, and cook the fish gently in the oven. Time, about half an hour ; if the fish be thick it will talce longer. Sole (au Gratin another way). Prepare and wash the soles as in the recipe Soles with Water Souchet, and rub the dish with a little butter; spread over it parsley, shallot, and mushroom (each chopped), salt, pepper, &c. ; lay the soles over this, and on the top of them spread some fine raspings of crust of bread, and parsley chopped, &c., as under. Put several small bits of butter over the soles, a glassful of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each of the following articles essence of anchovies, cavice, chilli vinegar, and Harvey's Sauce; and -when the soles have been in the oven twenty minutes, mix with the spoon the sauce that you baste the fish with. Mind, the sauce must be short, as it is called au gratin. This is a very palatable dish. Ude. Sole, Baked. Take a thick and very fresh sole, scale, skin, and trim it, wipe it dry with a soft cloth, and if convenient let it lie folded in this in a cool place for an hour or more before dressing. Season lightly with salt and pepper, flour well, and, if hked, e and bread-crumb the sole twice. Lay it in a buttered baking-dish, put little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and bake in a moderate oven. ShaTie the dish occasionally to keep the fish from sticking to the bottom. "When done enough, \a.y it on a reversed sieve before the fire for a few minutes to di-ain the fat frojn it. Put it on a hot dish, covered with a napkin, and garnish with, parsley and cut lemon. Send melted butter flavoured with anchovy sauce and chilli vinegar to table in a tureen; or make sauce by mixing the gravy which, flows from the fish with a little lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of the essence of ancho\-ies, and a spoonful of stock. A glassful of wine is. sometimes added to sauce thus made, but it is ' scarcely necessary. If more than one sole is to be baked, it should be remembered that they must be done in single layers, that is, they must not be laid one upon the top of another. Time to bake the sole, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pair. Suflicient, one good-sized sole for three xjersons. Sole, Baked (au Gratin). Choose a thick sole as fresh as possible. Cleanse it, remove the gills, scale it, and strip off the dark skin by cutting it at the tail end and drawing it over the head. "Wash it well, and wipe it drj' ; trim away the fins, and with a sharp knife make an incision a quarter of an inch deep down each side of the back-bone on the skinned side. Butter a baking-dish rather thickly, and lay the sole in it. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and a few fine bread-raspings, and add about a dozen mushrooms chopped small, a small handful of picked, washed, and chopped parsley-leaves, and one finely-minced shallot. Cover the surface of the sole thickly with fine raspings, and moisten the fish with a glassful of French white wine, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a table-spoonful of mushroom-juice or ketchup. Put the dish in the oven till the sole is done enough. If the dish in which the fish was baked is suitable, serve the fish in it ; if not, lift the fish carefully Math a fish slice, lay it on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Another table-spoonful of wdne may be added to the sauce. If the sui-facc of the fish is not sufliciently coloured, a salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over it for a few minutes. When expense is a consideration, a glassful of cider or j erry will be found an excellent substitute for the light wine. Time to bake, half an hour or moje, according to the size of the sole. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. for a goodsized sole. Suflicient for three persons. Sole, Baked (en Matelote Noi-mande). This dish very much resembles Sole, Normande proper. Prepare a stufiing as follows : Mince finely and separately a dozen niushrooms, a small handful of picked and washed parsley-leaves, and one shallot. Mix these ingredients together, put them into a saucepan, and fry them with two ounces of fresh butter. SOL (891 ) SOL a little pepper and salt, and a small pinch of powdered spice. IStii- the mixture over the tire for live or six minutes, take it olf the tii'e, beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with the herbs; stii- them over the fire again for about half a minute, and spread the forcemeat on a plate to cool. Cleanse and trim a fresh thick sole, liomove the bone carefully so as not to deform the tish, and put the cold forcemeat in the cavity thus prepared. Lay the sole in a buttered dish or saucepan, season with salt and pepper, and moisten with a glassful of French white wine or cider {svc Sole, Normande) a wine-glassful will be enough for one sole. Cover the fish with buttered white paper, to prevent its acquiring any colom', and bake until done enough. "Watch it carefully whilst it is baking, as if it is too much done it will be good for nothing. Serve on a hot dish. If liked, tomato or shi'imp sauce may be sent to table with the fish. Time to bake the sole, according to size. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. for one thick sole. Sole, Baked, with Pine Herbs. Take a thick sole, x erfectly fresh. Cleanse, scale, and skin it, and carefully remove the back-bone without spoiling the appearance of the fish. ]Mince separately a shallot and a small handful of picked and washed parsley-leaves. INIix these ingredients, and fry them \vith a teaspoonful of powdei-ed sweet herbs in two ounces of butter for five or six minutes. Throw in two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and the wellbeaten yolks of two eggs ; shake all quickly together for half a minute, and turn the forcemeat out to cool. Put it in the place of the hone inside the fish. Put the fish in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle pepper and salt over it, -di'edge flour upon it, place little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and add the juice of a lemon and a quarter of a pint of water. Lay the fish in a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. If additional sauce is required, put an ounce of butter and an ounce of flom- into a saucepan. Stir these over the fire for two minutes, then add three-quarters of a pint of water and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, pour the liquor from the sole into it, and stir into it a table-spoonful of the fried herbs which were used for stufling the fish, made and preserved for the purpose. Take the sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissolved a slice of fi-esh butter, and it will be ready for use. Time to bake the sole, half an hour or more, according to size. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. for one large sole. Sulficient for three or four persons. Sole, Baked, with Pine Herbs (another way). Cleanse, scale, tiim, and skin a sole. Lay it in a buttered baking-dish, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a dozen chopped mushrooms, a finely-minced shallot, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley over it. Cover with thick white sauce, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, lift the sole upon a hot dish with a fish-slice ; add the juice of half a lemon to the sauce, and stir into it until dissolved a slice of fresh butter : pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, one thick sole, from Is. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for thi-ee persons. Sole, Baked, with Wine Sauce. Cleanse, scale, skin, trim, and dry a thick sole, and with a sharp knife make an incision down each side of the back -bono. Season with pepper and salt, put it into a baking-dish thickly buttered, and pour upon it half a pint of French white wine, or, where economy is a consideration, a pint of cider or perry. Bake the fish in a moderate oven. When done enough, stu* the liquor into half a pint of good melted butter, let it boil up, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped j)arsley. Take the sauce off the fire, and stir into it until dissolved an ounce of fresh butter. Lift the fish carefully with a fish-slice upon a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about half an hour, according to size. Probable cost, a large sole, Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Sole, Boiled. The flesh of a boiled sole is tender and delicate, and somewhat resembles turbot in flavour. It is particularly suited for invalids and convalescents. Choose the fish fresh, and very thick a sole for boiling should weigh at least two pounds. Scale and clean it, remove the fms and gills, but do not take off the brown skin. Put it into plenty of cold water with a table- spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar ; let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then draw the pan to the side, and I let its contents simmer very gently tiU the fish is done enough. When this point is reached, the flesh will shrink from the bone. In taking up the sole, set the fish-drainer across the kettle for a minute, then lay the fish on a dish, covered with a warm napkin. The white side must bo uj)permost. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and send melted butter, or shrimp, anchovy, caper, lobster, or oyster sauce to table in a tureen. Some cooks plunge the fish into boiling water, and boil it gently until done enough, but it is more usual to put it into cold water. Time to boil the fish, according to size. A good-sized fish will take seven or eight minutes from the time the water boils. Sole, Buttered. Clean, scale, sldn, and di-y the fish. Eub a tin dish quickly with a clove of garlic freshly cut, lay the soles in it, and dredge flour npon them. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon them, allowing three ounces of butter for each moderate-sized sole, and bake them until done enough in a moderate oven. Lay them on a hot dish, pour the butter over, and sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of finely-minced parslej-. Serve very hot. Time to bake, half an hour or more, according to size. Probable cost, soles, Is. 6d. to '2s. 6d. per pair. Sole, Choosing of. Soles should be chosen thick, firm, and fresh, with the under part of a delicate cream-coloirr. The colour, aa weU as the smeU, is a test of freshness. Mediumsized fish are the best. Sole, Cold. Di'vide the cold fish into fillets. Put a lump of clarified fat or butter into the saucepan. When melted, dredge in half a table-spoonful of flour, and let it fry till brown. SOL ( 892 ) SOL Then put in an onion cut in quarters. When these quarters are brown, add a birnch of herbs and, gradually, a cupful of broth or water, half a wine-glassful of vinegar, and a little ketchup. Let the sauce stew very gently till the onion is melted; then season with pepper and salt. Let it simmer a quarter of an hour longer. Put in the fish with a pickled gherkin or two cut into small bits, or in preference a few capers. Let the whole simmer together for ten minutes, and if the sauce is not thick enough, add a little butter rolled in flour. Sole Croquettes. Take the remains of cold dressed sole, lift the flesh from the bones, and tear it into flakes with two forks ; then put it into a saucepan with a small proportion of white sauce, the yolks of three eggs, and a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. A quarter of a tea-spoonful of chopped onion may be added if liked, or the saucepan can be rubbed with a freshly-cut onion. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes till the eggs are set, spread it on a dish, and leave it in a cool place till it is firm and cold. Divide the croquettemeat into equal-sized parts, and roll these to the shape of corks or balls. Dip them in an egg which has been beaten up with a tea-spoonful of oil and a little salt and pepper, roU them in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat tiU they are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain them from the fat, sprinkle a little salt upon them, and serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Garnish with fried parsley. Time to fry the croquettes, about ten minutes. Probable cost of croquettes made with a pound of sole, 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Croquettes of Fillets of . Many pseudo cookery-books have receipts for croquettes of salmon and croquettes of cod which are certainly uneatable. Stm-geon and soles are the only two fishes which have sufficient firmness to admit of being made into croquettes. The oftener a fish is presented to the fire the more unpalatable it becomes. With regard to the croquette of soles, reduce the sauce, cut the soles into small dice, and thi'ow them into it, season them well, and put the whole preparation into ice. AVhen cold cut them into equal parts on a dish. Eoll them either round or oval, but never into pears. Dip them into an omelet of two eggs, put a little salt, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, fry them a good colour, and serve them up with crisp fried green parsley in the centre. Sole, Curried. Fillet two soles, and cut each fillet slantwise into four or five pieces. If more convenient, instead of filleting the soles, skin and clean them, cut off the fins and gills, and cut each fish into three or four pieces, leaving the bones in. Rub the fish with currypowder, and dredge a httle flour upon it, then fry it m hot fat for two or three minutes, but do not cook it sufficiently. Have ready as much warm curry sauce as will barely cover the fish. Lay the fried slices of sole carefully in this, and let them boil gently till they are done enough, but not overdone. Serve the curry on a hot dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table separately. The curry sauce may be made .as follows: Mince two onions and one sour apple, and fry them in hot fat, moving them about briskly till they are soft. Eub them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a teaspoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice. Add gradually about three-quarters of a pint of stock, and boil the sauce till it is thick and smooth. Time to simmer the sole in the sauce, about ten minutes. Probable cost, with a pair of soles at Is. 6d., 2s. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sole, Cutlets of. When soles are so large that they cannot conveniently be fried whole, they may be divided into cutlets. To do this, skin and clean the sole, and cut it crosswise through the bone into pieces about an inch wide. Fry these in the usual way. When done enough, dish them in a circle on a hot dish, with one piece resting upon another, and put fried parsley in the centre. Time to fry, according to the thickness of the fish. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pair. Sufficient, one moderate-sized paii- for three or four persons. Sole, Filleted. If desired, the fishmonger will fillet the sole. If this has to be done at home, pi'oceed as follows: Take a large sole, and cut off closely the head, tail, and fins. Remove both the skins by cutting them at the tail, and drawing them over the head. Lay the fish flat on the table, and with a sharp knife make a deep incision close to the backbone the whole length of the fish. Insert the knife to the head between the fin-bones and the fillet, just by the head, pass it under the flesh from head to tail, and thus raise it, and remove it in one piece. In this way take off the four fillets, cut each one aci'oss, and trim the ends neatly. Season them with pepper and salt, flour the fillets, and dip them in egg and bread-raspings ; let them lie an hour, then fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them well, and dish them in a circle, with one fillet resting upon another. Send parsley, shrimp, tomato, Italian, ravigote, or Dutch sauce to table with them. If liked, the fillets may be rolled and tied with thin twine before being egged and breaded. Time, about ten minutes to fry the fillets. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Sole, Filleted (a la Tartare). Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way. Cut the pieces across, flour them, and dip them in egg and bread-crumbs. Let them lie in a cool place for an hour, and fry them in. hot fat till they are of a bright-brown colour. Drain them on a sieve before the fire for two or three minutes to free them perfectly from fat, and dish them in a circle on a cold dish, with one piece overlapping the other. Abo\it an hour before the fish is to be served, prepare the sauce, and set it in a cool place till wanted. Serve in the centre of the circle. The sauce may be made as follows: Put the yolk of an egg, freed from the speck, into a bowl. Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, and stir in by drops about four ounces of good lucca oil. iJeat the SOL ( 893 ) SOL sauce thoroughly between every addition, for the success of the sauce depends upon this being done, and with every eighth tea-spoonful put in a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar. When the sauce is thick and smooth like cream, stir in a table-spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a table-spoonful of chopped ravigote, chervil, and tarragon. Taste the seasoning, add a little salt and cayenne, if required, and serve. Time to fry the' fillets, about ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Filleted (a I'ltalienne). Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way, and divide each fillet into halves by cutting it across. Season the pieces with pepper and salt, and rub them over vith cut lemon. Rub two ounces of butter into eight ounces of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, and make a stiff paste by mi.xing with the flour the yolk of an egg which has been beaten up \vith the eighth of a pint of cold water. Roll this paste out very thin, and cut it into pieces of a 'size and shape that will entirely cover the filleted fish. Wrap each piece of fish in the paste, press the edges closely, and fry the fillets in hot fat over a slow fire till they are brightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a dish in a circle, with one fillet overlapping the other. Pour cold Tartar sauce {see Soles, FiUeted, ii la Tartare) into the centre, and serve. Time to fry the fillets, about half an hour. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, rilleted and Marinaded. Fillet a large fresh sole, trim the fiUets neatly, and divide them into halves. Put them into a dish, season with pepper and salt, and put vith them a small finely-minced onion, a table- spoonful of picked and washed parsley, and a little oil and vinegar. Let the fish lie in this marinade for an hour, and turn it over occasionally, that it may be equally impregnated with the flavour. Make a little fryingbatter as follows : Put five ounces of flour into a bowl, and stir into it a jDinch of salt and a quarter of a pint of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of oil, and add the mixture to the flour, &c. The batter ought to be a little thicker than cream. A few minutes before the batter is wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, and add them to it. Drain the fillets on a clean cloth, and dip each piece separately into the batter, with which it should be covered entirely, but not too thickly. Fry the fillets in boiling fat, and move them about till they are equally browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Send maitre d'hotel, tomato, Dutch, shrimp, or white sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the fillets, about a quarter of an horn-. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sole, Filleted and Rolled. Take a large sole and half a pint of freshly-boiled and picked shrimps. Poimd the shrimps with a third of their bulk in fresh butter, two tablespoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, and a high seasoning of mace and cayenne. Fillet the sole, and divide the pounded shrimps into four portions. Spread a portion upon each fillet, roll it up from the tail to the head, and tie it with twine. Lay the rolls in a thickly-buttered baking-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over them, pour clarified butter upon them, and add a wine-glassful of clear stock and haK a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Bake the soles in a moderate oven. When done enough, take up the soles, mix a little lemon- juice with the sauce, and strain it over the fish. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. 6d. or more. Sufficient for four persons. Sole, Filleted and served with. Mussels. FiUet a large fresh sole, divide the fillets into halves, rub them with a freshlycut lemon, and let them stand in a cool place for an hour. Wash and brush a quart of mussels ; put them into a saucepan without any liquor, and put with them a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, two allspice, half a bay-leaf, and, if liked, a piece of garlic the size of a pea. Lay a clean cloth upon the fish, and shake the pan over the fire till the shells open. Turn them out, remove the beard from each one, take the fish out of the shells, and strain the liquor. Put the filleted soles into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and add a small glassful of madeira and an equal quantity of the strained liquor. Let them boil up once, then di-aw the saucepan to the side, and simmer very gently until done enough. Put in the mussels and the remainder of the liquor ; simmer the preparation for two minutes. Lay the soles on a dish, put the mussels upon them, and keep them hot till the sauce is ready. Let the sauce cool for half a minute, stir quickly into it the yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and when it is smooth pour it over the fish. Serve immediately. Time to simmer the soles, about a quarter of an hour. Probablecost, one large sole. Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Filleted, with White Sauce. Fillet a large sole, and season the fillets -wath a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, and finely-minced shallot. Put them into a saucepan, pour over them four ounces of clarified butter, and let them simmer ten minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of light wine ; simmer five minutes longer, and serve the fish with good white sauce poured over it. Time to simmer the fish, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, one large sole. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Fillets of (a I'Aurore). Take upthe fillets of four soles ; skin them on both sides. Have ready forcemeat quenelles, made of whitings, with the spawn of lobsters put in, to make it look red. Spread this forcemeat over each fillet, then roll them in the same manner as the paupiettes {see Sole, Paupiettes of Fillets of). Next skewer them with silver skewers, three to each skewer; dust a little pepper and salt over them. Season the forcemeat rather high. Lay the skewered fillets is SOL (894) SOL a baking- pan, cover them with layers of bacon, and bake them. When they are done, take oft' the skewers, pare the forcemeat that has protruded, and dish them neatly. With a part of the pounded lobsters' spawn which you have kept aside mix two spoonfuls of sauce tournee deprived of all fat, and a good lump of fresh butter; di-ain the whole through a tamis, that it may be fine. Add to it a little essence of anchovies, with pepper, salt, and lemonjuice. Keep the sauce very hot, and cover the fillets with it. Observe all the bacon must be taken ofl:. Tide. Sole, Fillets of (au Gratin). Take four ounces of mushrooms, four ounces of parsley, and two ounces of shallot. Peel the mushrooms and the shallot, and wash the parsley, then mince the ingredients separately. Put half an ounce of butter into a saucepan with the minced shallot, a pinch of pepper, and a pinch of salt. Stir this briskly over the fire for five minutes, add the parsley and the mushrooms, and stir the mixture for five minutes longer ; then pour it out. Butter a tin or silver bakingpan rather thickly, lay the herbs in it, place upon them a sole, neatly filleted and trimmed, and cover the fillets with finely -grated breadcrumbs. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon the fish, moisten it with a glassful of light wine, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and a teaspoonful of ketchup. Bake the sole until done enough. Serve it very hot in the dish in which it was cooked. If the sm'face is not sufficiently bro vned, hold a salamander or red-hot shovel over it for three or four minutes. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sole, Fillets of. Baked, with Sweet Herbs. Fillet a large sole, and divide the fillets into halves. Rub these with a freshlycut lemon, and leave them in a cool place for an hour or two. Prepare some savoiuy crumbs as follows: Mix two ounces of finely-powdered bread-crumbs with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg, the grated peel of half a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs. Dip the fillets first into clarified butter, then into the crumbs, and when the butter is set dip them in beaten egg and into the crumbs a second time. Butter a baking-dish thicklj-, place the soles in it, lay two ounces of butter here and there upon them in little pieces, and bake the fish in a brisk oven. Send shrimp, anchovy, or caper sauce to table in a tureen. If the flavour is liked, the dish in which the soles are baked can be rubbed quickly with garlic before the soles are put into it. Time to bake the fillets, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of one large sole. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Sole, Fillets of (Turkish fashion). Take off and saute the fiUets as directed before. Have sorne rice swelled and made soft in good consomme ; mix it with a few spoonfuls of good bechamel, to put in the centre of the dish : this rice must be thick, in order that it may be dished in a pyramid. To mask or cover the soles, take three spoonfuls of bechamel mixed ?with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea spoonful of cavice, and a little salt and pepper. Work this sauce well,, and cover the fillets only. The rice is to form the centre of the dish. Sole, Fillets of, Vol-au-Vent of. This is a dish of a former daj 's remains. Pare the skin ; cut the soles into round pieces of the size of half a crown. Then have a cream sauce, or else four spoonfuls of bechamel mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a httle salt and pepper. Let the sauce be made hot, without boiling ; put the soles into it, and then the whole mixed into a vol-au-vent. The sauce must be kept rather thick, for fear of making the crust soft. Sole for a Convalescent. Take one fillet of a large fresh sole, sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon it, and put it into a saucepan with four table-spoonfuls of cold water. Bring the liquor gently to the boil, skim it, and simmer very gently tiU the fish is done enough. Take up the sole wdth an egg-slice, and place it on a hot dish. Stir the well-beaten yolk of a new-laid egg into the water, and whisk the sauce over the fire till it begins to thicken. Pour it over the fish, and serve immediately. Time to simmer the sole, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. 6d. Sufficient for one person. Sole, Fricasseed. Take a pair of large soles and one small one; clean, skin, and fry all three, and diain them on a sieve before the fire to free them from fat. Raise the fiesh of the small sole from the bones, tear it into flakes, and mix with it an equal quantity of finelj'grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of picked and chopped parsley, a pinch of grated lemonrind, and a little pepj)er and salt. MLx these ingredients thoroughly, and with the fingers work into the mixtm-e two ounces of fresh butter and one egg. Make it up into small balls, and fry these in hot fat. Put half a pint of good stock into a saucepan, thicken it with brown thickening, and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful of port or claret. Season with salt and cayenne, if required. Let it boil till it is thick and smooth, lay the soles and the balls into it, and simmer all gently together till the fish is heated throughout. Lift ? the soles ujaon a dish, place the balls round them, pour the sauce over all, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the fish in the gravy, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Cd. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Sole, Fried. Take hold of the sole by the tail, and remove the scales by scraping them towards the head; cut off the fins and gills, wash the fish weU, and v.ape it di-y; take off the dark skin, by cutting it at the tail and di-awing it over the head. The roes may either be taken out, or left in and fried with the fish. Dry the sole thoroughly, flour it, and brush it over on both sides "with weU-beaten yolk of egg ; shake very finely-gi-ated crumbs of bread ail over, and leave it in a cool place for an hour, if time will permit. Put into a fryingpan as much good dripping as will, when melted, cover the fish. When it is quite hot SOL ( 895 ) SOL that is, wlion it ceases hissing and is still immediately put the fish into it. When it is brown on one side, turn it upon the other by sticking a fork into the head and placing a fish-slice under the tail. When done enough, which point is generally reached when a thick smoke lises irom it, place it on a hot cloth, and put it in the front of the fire to drain the fat from it. The cook should on no account omit to do this, as greasy fish is exceedingly unpleasant. Place a warm napkin over a fish-drainer on a dish, lay the sole upon it, and garnish with fried parsley. Send melted butter or slu'imp sauce to table in a tureen. The inexperienced cook will find it to her advantage to use very fine bread-raspings, or crusts of bread dried and bro\vned in the oven and finely pounded, instead of bread-crumbs. By using these she will ensure the good appearance of the fish. It should be remembered that fat which has been used for frying fish can be used, for that purpose 07ily, again and again, if it is each time clarified after being used that is, if it is put into a bowl of boiling water, stirred briskly for a minute or two, and allowed to get cold. It Mill be found that aU impurities will settle to the bottom, and can be scraped off before the fat is again used. Sometimes, when a sole is held up to the light, though it is fresh, a dark streak may be seen by the side of the roe. This arises from the fish having been so closely packed with the others after it was caught, that it was literally smothered to death. In cases Kke this the roe should be removed before the fish is fried. When eggs are scarce or expensive, a thin batter of flour and water may be used instead of egg and bread-crumbs. Time to fiy a moderate-sized sole with plenty of fat, ten minutes. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pau'. Sufiicient, one pair of soles for three or four persons. Sole, Fried in Oil (to be eaten cold). Clean, scale, skin, empty, trim, and drj a moderate-sized sole, and brush it over with beaten eg-g. Put six table-spoonfuls of best lucca oil in a saute-pan, let it get quite hot, then put in the fish. Let it remain for five minutes, turn it over, and then leave it in five minutes longer. Drain it well, put it aside, and serve cold. Time to fry the sole, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sole, Grenade of. "V Tien there are any remains of dressed fish they may be used with a large fresh sole as follows : Lift the di-essed fish from the bone, and tear it into flakes, ilix with it a third of its bulk in fincly-gi-ated bread-crumbs, and add half an anchovy freed from bone and finely pounded, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, work in with the finger two ounces of fresh butter, and add one raw egg to bind the forcemeat together. Clean, scale, and skin the sole, split it open, and carefully remove the bone. In its place spread the forcemeat, put the two halves of the sole together again, and fasten them in their position with four small skewers. Put the fish into a wellbuttered baking-dish, pour a cupful of stock round it, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. AVhen done enough, "take it up, strain, the gravy, and flavour it with a spoonful of the liquor in which gherkins have been pickled, and a spoonful of caper vinegar. Make it hot, pour it round the fish, and serve. Sometimes the inside of the sole thus prepared is larded in alternate rows with gherkins and truflies cut into tliin strips. Time to bake the sole, about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Sole in Cream (a deficate and delicious dish). Take a pair of moderate-sized soles, scale and skin them, and clean them with scrupulous care. Put them into a saucepan of boihng water, and let them simmer gently for two minutes. Take them up, drain them, and put them into a clean saucepan. Pour over them as much sweet cream as will barely cover them, add a little salt and cayenne, a pinch of pounded mace, and an inch or two of lemonrind, and let them simmer gently untU done enough. Take them up with a slice, and place them upon a hot dish. Thicken the cream with a little arrowroot, stir a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice into it, and pour it over the fish. It may seem unnecessary that the soles should be boiled for a minute or two in water before they are put into the cream, but it will be found that if this is not done the sauce wiR have a slightly unpleasant fishy flavour. Time to simmer the fish, eight to ten minutes. Sufficient for four- or five persons. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. per ijair. Sole, Normande. Choose a thick sole, scale and clean it, and draw off the dark skin, by cutting it through at the tail end and drawing it over the head. Butter thickly a dish that ?will stand the fire, and strew over it some very thin slices of onions. A silver dish is the most suitable for the purpose, as the fish should be served in the dish in which it was baked. Season the sole with salt and pepper, and lay it on the onion; sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the surface, and moisten the fish well with French white wine. Put it in a gentle oven, and bake it until done enough. Take a dozen fine bright-yellow mussels, cleanse and scrape them, boil them in the usual way, beard and drain them, and lay them on the sole. Make a quarter of a pint of rich white sauce, mix with this the gravy from the sole and a little of that in which the mussels were cooked. Reduce the sauce till it coats the spoon; pour a little of it upon the sole over the mussels, and put the dish again in the oven for a few minutes to make it quite hot, biit be careful not to colour the sauce at all. Serve very hot, and send the sauce which remains to table in a tureen. For a superlative dish, oysters and mushrooms may be laid upon the sole, as well as mussels, and the liquor from the oysters may be added to the sauce. Also fried smelts, crayfish, and fried croutons of bread may be used to garnish the dish. When preparing the fish for baking, it should be remembered that cider and perry replace French wine so well that it is almost needless to employ the latter, excepting when money is very plentiful. Grand cooks would use champagne, sauterne or other SOL ( 896 ) SOL expensive white wines. The Normans use the best sparkling cider " Sillerie de Normandie." Time to bake the sole, half to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost, one thick sole, Is. Sufficient for three persons. Sole, Paupiettes of FiUets of The farce or forcemeat must be made of whiting, the flesh of soles not mixing with any other ingredient. You may keep the skin on the white side of the soles, provided you scrape it well ; spread the farce over the inside of the fillets, and roll them as you do the paupiettes. When you have rolled them and equalised them with your knife, butter a piece of paper large enough to contain two or three; roll them in that paper, and do the same for the others ; then put them into the oven, bake them about twenty minutes, and drain and make them all equal : dress them to the best of your judgment on the dish. Serve them with the same sauce as for whitings, or white sharp sauce. Tide. Sole Pie. Take a pair of moderate-sized soles, or, if preferred, the remains of fried or boiled soles. Lift the flesh from the bones, and place it in layers in a buttered pie-dish. Between each layer put a dozen fresh or tinned oysters and the liquor; season the fish with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon the top. A dozen oysters will be sufficient for a pound of sole. Cover the dish with good puff paste, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, pour into it, through a strainer put into the hole at the to]), as much white sauce as will moisten it. This sauce may be prepared as follows : Jilake stock by boiling the fish-bones in as much water as will cover them. Strain the liquor, mix with it an equal quantity of cream, thicken with flom-, and season it. The remains of cold cod may be made into a pie in the same way. When the pastry is baked the pie is done enough. Probable cost, soles, Is. 6d. to 2s. per pair. Sole, Roulettes of. Choose fine fish: remove the heads, fins, and tails. Strip them from the bone. Cut small oblong fillets; lay these in a marinade of salt, pepper, lemonjuice, and a grate of nutmeg for half an hour. Roll the fillets egg-shaped, and bind them with thi-ead. Pack closely together in a stewpan with a little water or broth, adding some butter and lemon-juice. Cover them closely, and stew gently till done enough. Serve the roulettes in their own sauce, or glaze them brown and serve as ragoi'it. Sole, Sauce for. Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour with a good slice of fresh butter. Pour half a pint of boiling water upon the mixture, stir it well, and let it boil for ten minutes. Add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a tea-spoonful of chiUi vinegar. A teaspoonful of essence of anchovy may be added if liked. Serve immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pair of soles. Sole, Small Patties of. Make small vol-au-vent cases in the usual wav. Bake them, take off the covers, and fill them with a savoury preparation made by cutting the flesh of a cold fried sole into dice, and warming it in thick AUemand sauce. Put the covers on the top, and serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Sole, Stewed (a maigre dish). Skin, scale, and clean a large sole, and put it into a saucepan with an onion stuck with two cloves, fifteen black peppercorns, and as many berries of allspice. Pour upon it as much boiling water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently until done enough. Take the fish up carefully with a slice, lay it on a hot dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and supposing there is half a pint stir into it half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchov}', a table-spoonful of mushroom ~ ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of claret, and a pinch of cayenne. Let it boil till thick and smooth, strain it over the fish, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. Time to stew the sole, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Sole, Stewed (another way). Clean, skin, and scale a pair of soles, and then stew them as before with as much boiling water as will cover them, an onion stuck with two cloves, fifteen peppercorns, and fifteen berries of allspice. Let them simmer for a quarter of an hour. Put into a separate saucepan half a pint of milk or cream, the thin rind of a small lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and a thickening of flour and butter. Strain into this sauce half the liquor in which the fish was boiled, lift the soles into it, and let them simmer in it ten minutes. Lift the soles into a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, if milk be used, 2s. to 2s. 6d., according to the size of the soles. A pair of mode- rate-sized soles are enough for foiir or five persons. Sole, Stuffed and Baked (a Portuguese recipe). Make a little forcemeat as follows : Mince very finely six ounces of lean veal or beef thoroughly freed from skin and fat. Mix -nath it two ounces of finely-grated breadcrumbs which have been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, and two ounces of shi-ed suet, butter, or fat bacon that has been slightly fried. Pound the ingredients in a mortar with one fillet of an anchovy, a table-spoonful of picked and chopped parsley, a small onion, and a flavouring of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture together with the j olk of an egg. Clean, skin, and fillet a large fresh sole. Squeeze a little lemon -juice upon the fillets, spread the forcemeat upon them, roll them round, and tie them with twine. Put the rolls in a buttered dish, brush over with beaten egg, strew bread-crumbs over them, and put into the dish under them a cupful of gravy mixed with what remains of the egg, a teaspoonful of caper vinegar, a filleted anchovy, and a tea-spoonful of shred parsley. Cover the dish tightly, and bake the rolls in a gentle oven. When done enough, put the rolls into a hot dish, strain the gravy over, and garnish with fried parsley. Sometimes the rolls are dipped in French frying-batter, and fried till crisp, then baked afterwards. Time SOL (897) SOU to bake the fish, about half an hour. Probable cost, one large sole, Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for ioirr +r five persons. Sole, with Mushrooms. Clean, but do not skin, a pair of moderate-sized fresh soles. Lay them in a siiucepan, cover with equal quantities of milk and water, and add an ounce of butter and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-Juice. Bring them gently to the point of boiling, draw them back a little, and lot them simmer gently until done enough. Take them up, drain them, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them three-quarters of a pint of white mushroom sauce {tiee Mushi-oom Sauce, Vhite) . Time to simmer the soles, six or seven minutes after the Hquor boils. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole with Water Souchet. Take some fine fresh soles, scale the white side, and take the skin from the black side. Empty out all the intestines, and wash the fish thoroughly in several waters. When the soles are quite clean, boil them in water souchet, which should be prepared as follows : Take some roots of parsley, and cut them into slices about the eighth of an inch thick and an inch in length. Put these roots into some water with a bunch of parsley, gi-een onions, and a little salt; let them stew for an hour, then stew the soles in this water. When the fish are done enough, have ready some parsley leaves without the stalks which have been blanched separately in salt and water. Drain the soles, and take care that the parsley roots are preserved. Put the fish into a tureen with some of the liquor in which they have been stewed, and which you should strain through a silk sieve. Throw in the parsley roots and leaves, and serve up the water souchet without any bread in it ; but in a separate plate send to table a few slices of ryebread and butter. This broth must be as salt as the salt sea. Solid Cream. Put two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar into a jug, and strain upon it the juice of half a large fresh lemon. Add a pint of thick cream and a little brandy for flavouring, then pour the mixture from a height from one jug into another. When it begins to thicken it will be ready. Serve in jelly-glasses. Time, haK an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five Solid Easpberry. Dissolve half a pint of raspberry jelly in a pint of boiHng cream, and add two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful of lemon- juice. Stir the mixture till it is almost cool, then add threequarters of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of water, and stir it again for a few minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place to set. Care must be taken to use an earthenware, not a metal, mould, or the coloiir of the solid wUl be spoilt. Time, about twelve hours to set the solid. Probable cost, 38. Sufficient for a quart mould. Solid Ratafia. Crumble six ounces of macaroons and two ounces of ratafia cakes, put them into a bowl, and pour upon them a pint of boiling cream sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind. Stir the mixture till it is almost cool, and the biscuits are dissolved, then add half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of milk. Stir the cream till it is cold, pour it into damp moulds, and leave it in a cool place till firm. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve in the same. Time, about twelve hours to set the solid. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Solid Syllabub. Pub five or six lumps of sugar upon the rind of two large fresh lemons tQl the yellow part is taken ofl", then add a little more sugar to make up the weight to half a pound. Crush this to powder, put it into a bowl, and strain upon it the juice of the lemons. Add a pint of sherry or raisin wine, and whisk the mixture till a froth rises. As it does so, remove it with a skimmer to a sieve covered with muslin, and whisk it again till the whole of the cream is frothed. Leave it for twelve hours, then serve in glasses. Time to froth the syllabub, an hour or more. Probable cost, Ss. 6d. Somersetshire Frumenty. This frumenty may be served hot or cold. Bruise a quart of wheat thoroughly, put it into a stone jar, pour a quart of water upon it, and bake in a gentle oven till it is soft. Put a quart of new milk; into a bowl, and pulp into it as much wheat as will make it of the consistency of very thick cream. Stir into it sugar and nutmeg to sweeten and flavour it pleasantly, and add two table-spoonfuls of picked currants. Stir the mixture over the fire till the currants are soft. Remove it from the fire, and add the yolks of two eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, then stir it again over the fire for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Serve in a deep dish. Time to bake the wheat, about four hours. Somersetshire Syllabub. Put a pint of port and a pint of sherry into a large china bowl, together with six ounces of powdered sugar and half a grated nutmeg. Milk into the bowl until it is full, or, if preferred, milk into another vessel. Strain the mUk, and while it is still warm pour it from a good height upon the wine. In twenty minutes cover it with clotted cream, and garnish with nonpareil comfits. A true Somersetshire syllabub can be prepared only with milk warm and fresh from the cow. Sufficient for a large syllabub. Sop, Sweet and Sour. The sweet sop is a tropical fruit of about the size of an artichoke ; the pulp is said when properly ripe to have a taste somewhat like clotted cream and sugar. The plant seems to have been originallja native of South America, but it is now very widely distributed throughout the tropics. The sour sop is the fruit of a tree somewhat similar in size. The fruits are very abundant, and the negroes eat large quantities of them. Sorbet of Kirschenwasser. Make some ice as follows : Mix thoroughly a pint of syrup at 35¦, and a pint of chablis. Strain the mixture through silk into a freezing-pan, son ( 898 ) SOR md freeze in the usual way. AVhen frozen, flavour it with thi-ee table- spoonfuls of kirschenwasser. Put the sorbet into glasses, and 9ervc it at dinnci' with the roasts. Sorbet of Rum. Make the ice as before, but before freezing- mix with the sorbet a quarter of a pint of s-trained lemon-juice. 'WTien frozen, flavour with three table-spoonfuls of fine old Jamaica rum, and serve it in glasses with the roasts. Sorrel. Sorrel is an acid-leaved root largely used on the Continent to make soups, sauces, and salads. Where the taste for it has been acquired, it is considered a pleasant accompaniment to young meat. Sometimes, when sorrel alone is considered too acid, a mixture of equal parts of spinach and sorrel is served. Sorrel grows wild, and may be had for the plucking, and gathered thus is very good; nevertheless, as the flavour of cultivated sorrel is much superior to that of - vnld son-el, every garden should contain a few plants. The most useful variety is the broad-leaved sorrel, which is easily propagated either by seed or di-vision of the root. This root, like that of rhubarb, will stand almost any amount of ill-usage. The seed is very small, and must be only slightly covered with earth. The young plants may be thinned to from three to six inches apart ; but if they are left crowded no great harm will be done, as they must eventually be transplanted. Spring-sown sorrel may be gathered the next autumn; during the following season it will afford several cuttings. Sorrel and Eggs (sec Eggs and Sorrel) . Sorrel for Garnishing Meat. Pick three poimds of fresh green sorrel, wash it in several waters, and di\ain it thoroughly. Put it into a good-sized saucepan -with a tea-siDOonful of salt and a quart of boiling water, and let it boil quickly till tender, turning occasionally to prevent the lower leaves burning to the bottom of the pan. Drain it well, then chop it till very small. Work an ounce of flour into an ounce and a haK of butter, and stir the mixture quickly over the fire for three minutes. Put in the sorrel, and add, a little at a time, half a pint of strong stock. Stir the sorrel over the fire for fully twenty minutes. Beat two eggs .with three table-spoonfuls of milk, stir this quickly into the sorrel, and in four or five minutes it will be ready for ser\'ing. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the sorrel. Sorrel Fried in Batter. Make a small quantity of frying-batter [sec Batter for Frying Vegetables). This will be better if made an hour or two before it is wanted. Take the middle leaves only of the sorrel, wash them in two or three waters, drain them thoroughly, ? and trim them neatly. Dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot fat till crisp and brown. Serve on a hot dish, garnished with parsley. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Sorrel, Lamb Ragout with {see Lamb Ragout with tSorrel). Sorrel, Puree of (to serve with cutlets, roast veal, &c.). Wash half a peck of fresh green sorrel in several waters ; pick away the stalks, and boil it with half a pint of water till tender, then di-ain it thoroughly. Slice two large onions, and fry them in butter tiU they turn yellow ; dredge a little flour upon them, and add half a pint of gravy, a small lump of sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sorrel oxev a gentle tire for twenty minutes, and afterwards rub it patiently through a hair sieve. It may be served in the centre of a dish, with cutlets round it, or as an accompaniment to roast veal, lamb, or mutton. Time to boil the sorrel, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sorrel, Puree of (another way). Wash and pick some sorrel and some cos or cabbagelettuces, and put them into a stewpan with a little water : keep stirring -with a spoon to prevent its burning ; when melted lay it in a hair sieve to drain ; then put it on the table, and chop it well with some trimmings of mushrooms. "WTien chopj)ed fine, put it into a stewpan with a little butter and a few small pieces of good ham ; let it fry a long time on the fire, in order to drain the water it contains. When it has become quite diy, mix it -with four spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, or more if a large quantity is required, and let it stew for a long time over a small stove. After it has been constantly boiling for an hour, rub it through a tamis. If it should happen to be too thick, dilute it with a little consomme or stock broth, or Spanish sauce. If too acid, put in a little glaze and sugar. Always put cabbage-lettuce with the sorrel, to coiTect its acidity. When you make puree of sorrel, put a spoonful of flour to thicken the sauce, and dilute with veal gravy, and then proceed as before. If you have ho gravj of veal or of beef, two spoonfuls of broth and a small bit of glaze wiU answer the same purpose. Sorrel Salad. Take a quart of fresh green sorrel ; pick the leaves from the stalks, but on no account cut them ; wash them well, and drain and dry them thoroughly. Pile them in a salad-bowl, and send any simple salad sauce to table with them. Sorrel Sauce. Pick the stalks and large fibres from a quart of fresh green sorrel, wash it in several waters, drain it, and put it into an enamelled saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and stew it gently till tender. Stir it well to keep it from burning. Drain it, and rub ' it thi'ough a coarse hair sieve, season with pepper and salt, and add half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, if j the sauce is for roast veal ; or a spoonful or two i of thick brown sauce, if it is for roast meat; or a little cream, if wanted white for fowls. Serve verj' hot. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Sorrel Sauce (another way) . Take a few handfuls of sorrel leaves, wash them, and chop j them small, adding a few chives or half a small onion. Put them with a piece of butter in a I small casserole, cover it, and leave it to steam. I Add enough broth or water thickened with a table-spoonful of flour. Boil the sauce till i the sorrel softens. Add a grate of nutmeg and ' salt. SOR ( 899 ) SOU Sorrel Soup. Take t o or three handfuls of fiesh green sorrel ; pick the leaves from the stems, wash them in several waters, drain them, and put them into a stew7)an with a slice of fresh butter. No liquor is required. Steam the leaves gently till quite tender. Dredge a little flour upon them, beat out all the lumps, and add as much stock as the sorrel will thicken lightly. Boil up, add pepper and salt, and serve with toasted sippets. Sometimes thi-ee or four mealy potatoes are steamed with the sorrel, and crushed into the souj). Time, a quarter of an hour to soften the sorrel. Suflicient for four or five persons. Sorrel Soup (a German recipe). Take a good quantity of sorrel-leaves, pick them from the stems, and wash them well. Then put them into a stewpan to steam with a piece of butterno water is needed. Stir constantly, and dredge in a table-spoonful or two of flour, unless the soup is to bo clear. Add enough soup, ah-eady seasoned and flavoured. Serve with dice of toasted bread or sippets. Sorrel, Stewed (a la Fran9aise). Take a peck of sorrel, fresh and green; pick ?S the stems, and wash the leaves in several waters ; put them into a stewpan with a pint of boiling water in which a table-spoonful of salt has been dissolved, and let them boil quickly till tender. Some cooks put a shred lettuce and a little chervil into the saucepan with them. Drain the water from the sorrel, and rub it through a wire sieve. Put it into a saucepan, and mix with it two ounces of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, and a little pepper. Stir it over the fire till it boils. Add three tablespoonfuls of cream, or the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and serve with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Time to boil the sorrel, a quarter of an hour. Suflicient for six or seven persons. Sorrel, Stewed (for fricandeaux, roasts, &c.). Wash half a peck of picked sorrel-leaves in several waters, drain them on a sieve, and put them into an unglazed earthen jar in a very slow oven, and let them stew gently until quite tender. Mix an ounce of butter or a little salad-oil with them, add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and beat the leaves till smooth. Serve immediately. Souari, Swarrow, or Butter Nuts are brought from Dcmerara, and are highh' esteemed on account of their pleasant flavour. They axe obtained from a tree belonging to the walnut family called Caryocar butyrosum. Soublse Cutlets {see Mutton Cutlets a la Soubise). Soubise Sauce (for roast mutton, boiled veal, and cutlets). Peel four large onions, and cut them into thin slices ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them, together with a small quantity of grated nutmeg; put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and steam gently till they are soft. They must not be allowed to acquire any colour. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour iipon them, put a freshlyboiled mealy potato with them, and add half a pint of milk, or a quarter of a pint of white stock, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is quite smooth, rub it through a coarse sieve, pressing the onion strongly, that none may remain behind; and, before serving, heat again without allowing it to boil. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. Soubise Sauce (another way). Peel a pound of onions, cut them into small dice, throw them into boiling water, and boil them quickly for five minutes. Drain them, and steam them softly with a slice of butter till they are soft. Stir into them as much white sauce as will make them of the consistency of thick cream. ! Press the sauce through a sieve, heat it again j without allowing it to boil, and serve. Time, I altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d. I to Is. if made with milk. Suflicient for five or { six persons. I Soubise Sauce (another way). Take a j dozen white onions. After having peeled and j washed them, cut them into halves, take off the 1 tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as possible, I and blanch them to make them taste sweeter and take off the green colour. Then let them melt on a small stove with a little buttei'. When they are thoroughly done, and no kind I of moisture is left, mix four spoonfuls of bechamel. Season them well, rub the puree through a tamis, and keep the sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also put a small lump of sugar with the sauce if necessary. When you have the oven hot, piit in the onions hermetically closed in a small stewpan, and let them simmer for one hour with a small bit of ham. This method gives a better flavour. Soubise Sauce, Brown. Peel and wash twelve onions clean, then mince them, and fry them in a stewpan with a little butter till very brown. Moisten with some Spanish sauce, if you have any ; if not, sprinkle with two spoonfuls of flour mixed with some veal or beef gravy. Skim the fat, season well with salt and pepper, and then strain the pm-ee through an old tamis, for these sort of purees would destroy new ones, and will always leave the taste of onions. Tide. Soubise Sauce, Mutton Cutlets with. Take a neck of mutton, and cut oft' (he chops one by one without flattening them ; cut off' some of the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Put them into a stewpan with all the parings of the onions to make the soubise. Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of parsley, green onions, salt, and a very small quantity of spice, &c. ; throw in four or five spoonfuls of good broth to braize them. When done, drain them, and let them cool. Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to a glaze. Next pare the chops nicely, and put them with the glaze. This being completed, dish them miroton way, and poiu- the soubise or onion sauce into the middle. Some persons take two necks of mutton, cut two bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above ; but mutton, being in general fat, is better without being larded. With regard to the two bones, you must take sou ( 900 ) SOU care not to let them be too thick ; if they are too thick you cannot dish them well. Soubise Sauce, Mutton Cutlets with (another and a better way). Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when you wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and put them into a stewpan, where they may all lie flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots, a little salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions seasoned, four or five si oonfuls of good consomme, and sweat the whole till it is entirely done. Then take out the roots, jDut in a little glaze, and reduce over a large fire. "V len entirely boiled down to a glaze, take them off the fire for a few minutes, let the cutlets settle in the glaze, take out the trimmings and vegetables, turn over the cutlets in the glaze, and take out the grease or fat, lay them on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up before they can get dry. This method is preferable to the other. You must not in either case lard your chops with bacon. These cutlets may be served up with all sorts of puree of vegetables. Tide. Soubise Sauce, Onion (??? Onion Soubise Sauce). Souffle. Recipes for the following souffles "will be found under their respective headings: Apple Apples in Rice Apricot Arrowroot Cheese Fondue Gooseberry Ground Rici Lemon Macaroon Omelet ?Corn-flour Souffle Potato Pudding Potato-Flour Fruit Rice Ginger Souffle Pudding Rice, Ground. SOTlffle, Bread. Take some milk, and boil it with a little cream, giving the preparation any taste you please. Throw into it the soft part of two or three rolls to soak, rub the broad through a sieve, and proceed with the eggs, butter, sugar, t&c, in the usual way [see Soulfle, Potato, au Citron, and Souflle, Orangeflower). Souffle, Carrot. Make a thick puree of carrots, but instead of broth use water, in which put a little sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit of butter ; let all this boil till very thick, then add the yolks of six eggs, and mix all well together. The moment you are ready to send up, beat the whites of the eggs, which throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time in the vessel which you wish to use. This souflle is not in great favour, but it is good. Souffle, Coffee. Boil a pint of milk with a pint of cream, and add a little sugar and a very little salt. Take a clean omelet-pan, or a coffee-roaster, and roast in it a quarter of a pound of coffee on a slow fire. When the coffee \8 equally roasted throw it into the boiUng cream, that it may acquire a proper taste of the coffee. The cream may be used to make either bread souffle or potato souffle. Souffle Dish. Illustrations representing an ornamental and a plain souffle dish are given in connection with the article Apple Souffle (which see) . Souffle, Omelet. Break six eggs, put the whites into one pan and the yolks into another; rasp a little lemon-peel or orangeflowers, beat the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, and next beat the whites well to snow, and mix them with the yolks lightly. Then put a lumj) of butter into an omelet-pan on the fire ; when the butter is melted, pom- the omelet into the pan ; and when it is firm enough on one side to hold the liquid part, turn it over on the dish you send up ; then bake it in an oven, or use the Dutch oven. When it is well raised, glaze it, and send it up immediately, for it would soon lower. ]\Iind, it must be covered very close with a largo tire over it, otherwise it will not rise. To this you may give whatever flavour you think proper, but the plainer the better when served very hot and very high ; you may add to it some apricot jam. When you have put the omelets in the pan, and the eggs begin to stiffen, move them a little on one side by giving the pan a jerk, and put the jam in the centre ; turn the omelets into the dish they are to be served on, and put it into the oven. Souffle, Orange-flower. Dilute a little flour with half cream and half milk ; set this on the fii-e to boil ; when the flour is done, put a little salt, a little sugar, and a small quantity of pounded orange-flowers; mix well, and then add a good bit of butter, the yolks of six eggs, and mix the whole well. Next beat the six whites, and mix them with the rest ; then bake the souffle in the usual way, and when it is baked enough, glaze it, and send it up. Souffle, Potato. This dish has the double advantage of being excellent and economical. Take as many large potatoes as you expect guests for dinner. As the potatoes do not look well when cut, wash them well, and select the best shaped ; put them into the oven, and when sufficiently baked, cut an aperture at the top of each, scoojJ out the inside with a spoon, and put it in a stewpan with two or three spoonfuls of double cream, a small bit of butter, a little salt, some sugar, a little lemon-peel rasped on sugar, two yolks of eggs, adding the white nicely frothed. Put this mixture into the hollow potatoes, placing them in a rather hot oven. The taste may sometimes be varied with lemon, orange-flower water, &c. This is a pretty dish. Apple souffle may be prepared in the same way, excepting that the apples must not be baked previously to being filled with the ingredients, but merely cored and the interior scooped out, as above directed. Souffle, Potato (au Citron). Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven ; when they are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has boiled and in which you have infused the peel of a lemon ; to this add a little sugar, a large bit of butter, and a little salt the taste of the sugar, however, must predominate : yet observe that the less sugar you use, the lighter the souffles will be. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the sou (901 ) SOU above preparation into a souffle-dish, add to it an ounce of fresh butter, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the souffle is done enough, powder a little sugar over it, and use the siilaniander. Souffles must he served up the moment they are ready, for they are liable to sink. Ude. SOTlffle, Poxilets (a la Creme). This dish is also made of the remnants of roasted chickens; take off the white ilesh, mince it very small, and pound it in a mortar with a little bechamel, a good lump of fresh butter, and salt and pepper; with this mix the yolks of four eggs. Strain the whole thi-ough a tamis, or a hair sieve ; then beat the whites of five eggs till made into a single body ; mix these with the former preparation, and put the whole in the dish to rise, or in a croutade that has been raised like the crust of a pate chaud (hot pasty). It will be done in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the quantity. It is to be observed, that if the oven is too hot, the outside of the souffle will be burnt, although the inside is not done enough. This, therefore, must be carefully attended to. Souffle, Simple. Sweeten and flavour a quarter of a pint of milk with lemon or vanilla, boil it, and stir into it quickly, when boiling, a table-epoonful of flour which has been smoothly mixed with another quarter of a pint of milk. Add a slice of fresh butter, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir the batter carefully till it thickens, then pour it into a basin. "WTien nearly cold, add a dessert- spoonful of brandy and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Butter a cake-tin or deep pie-dish which the batter will only half fill, and put it in the oven till hot. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and stir them briskly into the batter. Spread a layer of jam at the bottom of the dish, pour in the batter, and bake in a moderate oven. When the souffle has risen high, and is nicely browned and firm throughout, it is done enough. Serve with the utmost expedition, or it will be spoiled. Time to bake the souffle, about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons: Souffles. A properly-made souffle is light in appearance, delicate in flavour, as well as nourishing and easily digested. It is a little difficult to make ; nevertheless, if the inexperienced cook will follow closely the instructions here given, and be careful to allow the best ir;gredients only to enter into its composition, she will soon acquire sufficient dexterity in making it to remove all fear of failure. All kinds of farinaceous substances may enter into the composition of souffles, but the process of their manufacture is always the same. They are in perfection only when served light and high, ju.st as they come out of the oven, before they have had time to sink below the original level. In order to ensure this, the careful cook will hold a salamander or red-hot shovel over the souffle till it reaches the dining-room door. ]\Iore important, however, than this is, "tnat she should have everything that she wiU require in readiness, as delay at the critical moment may spoil everything. A souffle should be baked in a souffle-tin, which tits into a silver-plated ornamental dish, in which it can be sent to table. When this is not at hand, a plain round or oval cake-tin or thin basin, or a deep pie-dish may be used, with a high band of buttered writing-paper fastened inside the rim, to prevent the batter falling over the sides of the dish. A properly-folding case of frilled writing-paper should be prepared, into which it may be quickly dropped when ta*:en from the oven. As the ingredients, with their proportions, are given under each recipe, it will only be necessary here to describe the general process of manufacture. Mix the ingredients thoroughly and lightly, including the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Do not add the whites of the eggs until the last moment, and be careful that they are whisked separately to a very stiff froth, and then are stirred briskly into the souffle. The success of the dish depends in a great measure upon this part of the business being done thoroughly. Butter the tin, already lined with oiled writing-paper, and put it in the oven till very hot. Pour in the batter quickly, and place it in a moderate oven. The dish ought not to be more than half fuU. Move it about occasionally, that it may be equally baked. When it has risen to a good height, is brightly coloured, and quite set in the centre, it is done enough, and should be served immediately. Souffles are very usually served at large dinners, and are generally handed round after the removes of the second course. As they are very good also for ordinary dinners, the inexperienced cook wiU find it well worth her whUe to perfect herself by practice in the art of making them. [See Principles of Cookery, page iv.) Soup. There is no part of cookery which is so imperfectly understood by ordinary cooks as the preparation of soup. Amongst the wealthy it is considered a necessity, and, as a matter of course, forms part of the dinner. Amongst the middle classes it is more usually served than it used to be, and is, year by year, increasingly appreciated; but amongst the lower classes it is all but scorned; and mistresses of small households will testify that the maid-of-aU-work, who when at home is half starved instead of being properly fed, will consider herself most hardly used if part of the provision of the day's dinner consists of a portion of wholesome soup. This opinion is, of course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both nourishing and wholesome, and it may also be prepared economically. With attention and a little trouble, it may be made from very inexpensive materials, and, considering that when soup has been served smaller inroads are made into the joint, the frugal housekeeper who has once calculated the difference in cost of a dinner consisting of economically-made soup, meat, and vegetables, and one of meat and vegetables only, will never object to the introduction of soup at her table on account of the expense. Soup may be made of a large variety of different articles, including meat of all kinds, bones, game, poultrj', fish, shell-fish, all kinds of vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles. sou ( 902 ) SOU milk, eggs, &c. &c. The basis of all soup is stock. Instructions ta making this wall be found in its proper place, and it will, therefore, net be consideied here. The reader will also find most valuable hints for making stock and soups in the article on the Principles or Cookery. Directions for making various soups will be found under their various headings, nevertheless it may be found useful if a few rules of universal api lication are here given as an assistance in their manufacture. There are three kinds of soups clear soup, thick soup, and purees. A puree is made by rubbing the jingredients of which it is composed through a tamis or sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened by the addition of various thickening ingredients. These soups are best suited to the winter season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and adapted for use in the summer months. In making soup it is most important that every culinary article used should be perfectly clean. The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims, and the handles, particularly require attention. The lid of the saucepan should never be removed over a smoky fix'e. The meat used should be freshly-killed, and should be as lean as it can be procui-ed ; it should never be washed. The Iwnes should be broken up into small pieces. Cold water should be put upon fresh meat and bones; boiling water (a small quantity at a time) uj)on meat or vegetables that have been fried or browned. As it is very important that no fatty particles should be left to tioat on the surface of the soup, this should be made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, so that tke fat can be removed after it has gone cold. If the soup has been thickened with white or brown roux it should be simmered by the side of the fire until it has thrown up the fat which the liquor still contains. Soup should be simmered very softly till it is done enough. A lai'ge fire and quick boiling are the great enemies of good soup. In flavouring soup the coolc should be careful to add the seasoning ingredients in moderation and gradually, especially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, spices, herbs, salt, and cayenne. An overdose of salt has spoilt many a dish of soup, while a deficiency thereof has again and again nullified the effect of the most delicate combination of flavoui's. As a general rule, two ounces of salt will sufiice for a gallon of soup stewed with large quantities of vegetables ; an ounce and a half only will be needed if the vegetables are omitted, or if a small quantity only is used. It should be remembered tliat salt and all seasonings can be added when they cannot be taken out. For flavoui-ing purposes. Aromatic Seasoidng of Herbs and Spices, and Herb-powder for Flavouring Soups, will be found of great use. "Wliatever ingredients are added to soup, whether farinaceous articles, such as rice, vermicelli, macaroni, &c., or vegetables, all should be partially boiled in plain water before they are put into the liquor. This will ensure theii- being perfectly clean and bright. The flavour of rich brown soups will be brought out better if a small piece of sugar be added to it. This must not be used for white soups. Cream or milk when put with soups should be boiled sejMirately, strained, and added boiling. If, instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg are used, the egg must on no account be boiled in the liquor. Either it must be mixed thoroughly with a httle of the soup which has cooled for a minute, then be stirred into the rest ; or, better still, it must be put into the soup-tureen, a spoonful of the soup mixed with the milk stirred into it, and the rest added gradually. If soups are to be kept for a day or two, they should be boiled up every day, or every other day, according to the state of the weather, put into freshly-scalded dry earthenware pans, and kept in a cool place. A piece of gauze may be thrown over the pan to keep out dust and flies. Soup should never be kept in metal vessels, and it should be stu-red and well skimmed with a wooden spoon. It should always be served as hot as possible. Soup, Cheshire. The following is a very old Cheshire recipe for a good and inexpensive soup. It dates back as far as the sixteenth century. Put a hock of beef into a gallon of j cold water, simmer it gently for six houi-Si, j taking care that it is well skimmed. Put in I some thjTne, sweet marjoram, and celery, all 1 tied in a bunch, as also a couple of onions cut I fine. Skim off all the fat, and season with pepper and salt and a little ketchup. By omitting the above seasoning, this soup may be turned into all kinds of soups, by adding the vegetables to give the flavour required. Soup Flavouring, Onions for {see Onions, Coloured, for Soup Flavouring). Soup for Children, Liebig's. This preparation, which is hardly entitled to the name of soup, as the word is generally understood in this country, is made in the followingmanner: Take one ounce (one large tablespoonful) of seconds flom-, and mix it smoothly and carefully with ten ounces of cold skimmed milk until the whole is smooth ; add seven and i a half grains of bicarbonate of potash dissolved I in a tea-spoonful of water (if sixty grains of the I potash be dissolved in one ounce of water, one j tea-spoonful must be u.sed at a time), and then I heat it gently till it reaches the boiling point, I and keep it boiling for fi-\'e minutes. Stir th j preparation well whilst it is being heated ; add. ? to the whole one ounce (one large dessertI spoonful) of malt flour (malt ground in a coffeemill, and sieved) mixed with two ounces of water, and stir it well. Cover the pan, and let it stand for half an hour in water which is nearly boiling, so as to keep the soup warm ; then strain through a fine sieve, and bottle it. This quantity is enough for a day's supjjly for a child under two years of age. A quart of milk should be added to the soup. . Soup, Macaroni, Grain Balls for. EoU out some macaroni paste very thin, cut it into small squares dry and stift" enough to be rubbed through a grater. Soup Tablets. In the following recipe we have described how to make the souj) tablets which were so much used by the German army during the Franco-German war. Take ele "en part's by weight of good suet, melt it in an iron pan, and make it very hot, so as to become brown ; add, while keeping the fat stirred, sou ( 903 ) SOU eighteen parts of rye-meal, and continue heating and stiiTing, so as to make the mass brown ; add then four parts of di'ied salt and two parts of coarsely pul ?erised caraway-seeds. The mixtui'e is then poured into tin pans somewhat like those used for making chocolate into cakes. The cakes have the appeai-ance of chocolate, and are chiefly intended for the use of soldiers when in the field. A quantity of about an ounce of this preparation is sufficient to yield, when boiled with some water, a ration of good souj), and in case of need, the cakes being agreeable to the taste, may be eaten raw. Soup "Without Stock. Cut a good-sized cabbage, put it in a stewpan with some carrots, onions, celery, and the bone of a leg of mutton or rib of beef from which all the meat has been taken. Add a quart of water, and let all simmer together for five hours. Then strain the soup, and take off any fat which may still float on it. Pick out the best pieces of cabbage, put them into the soup, season with pepper and salt, make quite hot, and serve. Soups and Broths. Recipes for the following soups and broths will be found imder their respective headings : Almond Apple Aetichoke, Jerusalem Asparagus Asparagus, Allemand Barley Beef, Eoast, axd Boiled Turkey Beef, Shin of Beer Beer, with CarawaySeeds Beer, with Milk Beer, with Sago Beetroot BOUILLE a BaISSE Bread-crusts grilled for Soup Bread Fried for Broth, Strengthening Brown Cabbage Calf"s-foot Broth Calf's-foot Soup Calf's Head Calf's Head, Mock Turtle Carrot Carrot, Maigre Cauliflower Celery Chantilly Cheese,withoutMeat Cherry Che.stnut Chicken Broth Chicken Soup Clam Clear Clear, from Bones Clear, from Fresh Meat Cock-a-Leekie Cocoa-nut Codling Conger Eel Cottage Cottage, Baked Crab Crayfish Cream of Eice Cressy Duck-Giblet Eel Eel, Brown Eel, \yHiTE Egg Egg, Barley F.\iIILY Fish Fish, Brown Fish Quenelles Fish, "White Fish, with Pot.vtoes Fisherman's Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle Forcemeat for Fish, Soups, &c. Friar's Chicken Fruit,Soup of Cheesegourd Fruit, Spuutc Game Garbure GermanGerman Asparagus German Broth, or "Winter Hotchpotch Giblet GiBLET, Duck Giblet, Germ.4.n Goose Gravy-, Bro-r-n, from Bones Gr.wy, "V\''hite, Vermicelli Green CornGreen Pea Green Pea, Early Spring Green Pea, Maigre Greening for Grouse Guinea Fowl Haddock Hake Hare Hare, French Hare, Mock Hare, Superior Herb Hessian Hessian and Eagout Hotch-potch Hotch-potch, MuttonHotch-potch, Ox-tail Hotch-potch, Scotch Hotch-potch," Vixter Hunter's Imperi.vl Indian. Mulligatawny Invalid's Irish, or Balnamoon Skink Italian Macaroni Italian Potage Jardiniere Julienne Kale Brose Kidney Leeks Leeks, or Leekie Leeks and Maigre Lentil Liebig's Extr.\ct Liebig's, roR Children Liver Klosse, for Lobster Lobster . nd PrawnLobster with Milk Lorne Macaroni Macaroni, Italian, for Marrow- Dumplings Maigre Meg Merilees Merveille MlLH Milk, GsRHA r Mock Turtle Mock Turtle, Forcemeat Balls for Monastery' "VS 'ine Moor G.oie Mullagatawny m u l l a g a t a w n y , C.A-Lf's Head MULLAGATAWNY, FoWL im u l l a g a t a av n y , Rabbit COCK-APoT.VTO, MuLLAGATAWNY, Ve (;etable Mussel iluTTON Broth Mutton Broth (Invalid Cookery) Mutton Broth, Mock Mutton Broth Nourishing Mutton Broth, Quickly Made Mutton Broth, Scotch JIutton Hotch-potch Neat's Foot Kettle Tops xouilles OnionOnion, BrownOnion, Maigre Onions, Burnt for Onions, Coloured foe Ox Cheek Ox Tail, Clear Ox Tail, Thick Oyster Oyster, Economical Oyster, Rich Palestine Panada Pancakes Pankail Parmesan and Soup Parsnips Partridges Pear Peas Peas, Green Peas, Green, Economical Peas, Green, without Me.\t Peas, Nutritive Properties of Peas, Quickly and Easily Made Peas Soup, To Flavour Pheasant Pigeon Poor Man's Poor Man's, Dr. Kitchiner's Portable Potage a la Colbert' Potage a la Conde Potage a la Crecy Potage a la Reine Potage a la Xaviee x-oTACE Bisque Potage de Veau Potato Potato a la Creme Potato and Leek pot-au-feu PoT-Au-FEU, Analysis OF THE PoT-AU-FEU, AU BaIN Marie PoT-Au-FEU, Household sou ( 904 ) SOU Prawn Pkixce's proven9al potage Prussian Pumpkin Queen's Quenelles, for Turtle Soup Quenelles, for White and Clear Soup Rabbit, Superior Eabbit, Ude's Eabbit, White Rabbits, Wild, Stock Broth from Ravioli Ray Regent's Restorative Broths Rhubarb Rhubarb, Sweet Rice and Egg, Danish Rice and Green Pea, French Rice and Onion Rice and Pumpkin Rice and Veal Broth Rice and Veal Soup Rice-flour Rice- FLOUR, for Thickening Rice, (A Danish Recipe) Rice, Italian Rice, Cream of Rice, made from Fresh Meat Rice, for Children, &c. Rice, Superior Rice, White Rice, Royal Rice Stew Roots, Essence of, for Moistening Russian Cabbage Russian Sago Salmon Savoury Jelly Scotch Broth Scotch Kale Semolina Sheep's Head Shin of Beef Skate Sorrel Spanish Chestnut Spinach Spring Stock Summer Tapioca Transparent Tomato Turkey Turnip Turtle Veal Vegetable Vegetable Marrow Velout Venison Vermicelli White Soups and Broths, Dr. Kitchiner on. The cook must pay particular attention to her stewpans, soup-kottlee, &c., which skould be examined every time they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stewpans not only on the inside but about a couple of inches on the outside; many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair, and if not kept nicely tinned all your good work will be in vain, the broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and your credit will be lost. The health and even life of the family depends upon this, and the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman's bill than the doctor's; therefore attention to this cannot fail to engage the regard of the mistress. If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her pan which will sometimes happen to the most careful cook I advise her by all means immediately to acquaint her employers, who will thank her cordially for mentioning an accident, and censure her deservedly if she conceal it. Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tamis cloth, spoons and ladles ; make it a rule without an exception never to use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any stewpans, &c., without first washing them out with boiling wat?r, and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c., or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used : never neglect this. Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut as to wiMully neglect her broth-pots, &:c., yet we may recommend her to wash them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly dried at the fire before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon attend to this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up. Never put by any soup, gravy, &c., in metal utensils ; in which never keep anything longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of cookery the acid, vegetables, fat, &c., employed in making soups, &c., are capable of dissolving such utensils, therefore stone or earthen vessels should be used for this purpose. Stewpans, soup-pots, and preserving-paus, with thick and round bottoms (such as saucepans are made with) will wear twice as long, and are cleaned -with half the trouble, as those whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which sand and grease get into the joined part, and cooks say that it is next to an impossibility to dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar's. Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth, soup, and sauces, &c., may not waste by evaporation. They are good for nothing unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in and the smoke out. Stewpans and saucepans should be always bright on the upper rim, where the fire does not bum them ; but to scour them all over is not only giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels. Cultivate habits of regularity, cleanliness, &c., in all your business, which you will then get through easily and comfortably ; I do not mean the restless spirit of MoHdusta, " the tidy I one," who is anon, anon, sir, frisking about in a wliirliX)ol of bustle and confusion, and is ! always dirty under pretence of being always cleaning. Lean juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the I basis of broth ; procure those pieces which af ] ford the richest succulence, and as fresh killed ! Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat is wasted. This only ap; plies to those broths which are required to be I perfectly clear. Fat and clarified drippings I may be so combined with vegetable mucilage I as to aft'ord, at the small cost of one penny per I quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully I adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength I this -will open a new source to those benevolent housekeepers who are disposed to relieve the poor ; wiU show the industrious classes how I much they have it in their power to assist I themselves, and rescue them from being objects of charity, dependent on the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abundant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and families. This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon made, with no more fuel sou ( 905 ) SOU than is necessary to warm a room ; those who I have not tasted it cannot imagine wliiit a salu- brious, savoury, and satisfying meal is produced by the judicious combination of cheap homely ingredients. The following are the chief broth-herbs, souproots, and seasonings : Scotch Baiiley Paksley Pearl Bauley Common Thyme Flour Lemon Thyme Oatmeal Orange Thyme Bread Knotted Marjoram Rasping Sage Peas Mint Beans Winter Savory Rice Sweet Basil Vermicelli Bay-leaves ]\Iacaroni Tomato Isinglass Tarragon Potato Mucilage Chervil Mushrooms Burnet Champignons Allspice Parsnips Cinnamon Carrots Ginger Beetroots Nutmeg Turnips Clove Garlic Mace I Shallots Black Pepper Onions Lemon-peel Leeks White Pepper Cucumber Lemon-juice Celery Seville OrangeCelery Seed juice Cress Seed Essence of Anchovy. The above materials, wine and mushroom ketchup, combined in various proportions, will j make an endless variety of excellent broths and j soups, quite as pleasant to the palate, and as useful and agreeable to the stomach, as consuming pheasants and partridges, and the long hst of inflammatory, piquant, and rare and costly articles recommended by some people whose elaborately compounded soups are like their made dishes, in which, though variety is aimed at, everything has the same taste, and nothing its own. The general fault of our English soups seems to be the employment of an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs. " Point de legumes, point de cuisiniere," is a favourite culinarj' adage of the French kitchen, and deserves to be so ; a better soup may be made with a couple of pounds of meat and plenty of vegetables than our common cooks will make you with four times that quantity of meat ; all for want of knowing the uses of soup-roots, and sweet and savoury herbs. Besides the ingredients I have enumerated, many indiscriminately cram into almost everj' dish (in such inordinate quantities one would suppose they were working for the asbestos palate of an Indian fire-eater), anchovies, garlic, bay-leaves, and that hot fierj- spice, cayenne pepper; this, which the French call (not undeservedly) piment enrage, has somehow or other undoubtedly acquired a character for being very wholesome, whilst the milder peppers and spices are cried do'wn, as destroying the sensibility of the palate and stomach, (Sec, and being the source of a thousand mischiefs. We should just as soon recommend alcohol as being less intoxicating than wine. The best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is, " that with all kinds of vegetables, as also with soups (especially vegetable soups) and fish, either black or cayenne pepjjer may be taken frceh' ; they are the most useful stimulants to old stomachs, and often supersede the cravings for strong drinks, or diminish the quantity otherwise required." A certain portion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite and keep up the languid action of feeble and advanced life; we must increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system increases. We leave those who love these things to use them as they like; their flavours can be very extemporaneously produced by chilli- juice, or essence of cayenne, shallot wine, and essence of anchovy. There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as an indispensjible overture ; it is commonly followed by " fc coup d'apres," a glass of pure wine, which they consider so wholesome after soup, that their proverb says, the physician thereby loses a fee. Whether the glass of wine be so much more advantageous for the patient than it is for his doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent plan to begin the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating the appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. We again caution the cook to avoid overseasoning, especially with predominant flavours, which, however agreeable they may be to some are extremely disagreeable to others. Cavice, coratch, anchovy, curry-powder, savoury ragout powder, soup-herb powder, browning, ketchups, pickle-Hquor, beer, wine, sweet herbs, and savoury spice, are very convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. The proportion of wine (formerly sack, then claret, now madeira or port) should not exceed, a large wine-glassful to a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted without the vinous flavour becoming remarkably predominant, though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is incomparably thebest, because it contains le,ss spirit and more flavour, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even veritable cau de vie is ordered in many books, and used by many especially tavern cooks. So much are their soups overloaded with relish, that if you will eat enough of them, they will certainly make you intoxicated, if they don't make you sick. All this frequently ai-ises from an old cook measuring the excitability of the eaters' palates by his own, which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, that to awaken it requires wineinstead of water, and cayenne and garlis for black pepper and onion. Old cooks are as fond of spice as children are of sugar, and season soup which is intended to constitute the principal part of a meal as highly as sauce of which only a spoonful may bo relish enough for a plate of insipid viands. However, we fancy these large quantities of wine, kc, are oftonor ordered in cookery-books than used in the kitchen practical cooks have the health of their employers too much at heart, sou ( 906 ) SOU and love " sauce a la lanr uc " too well to overwine their soups, &c. Truffles and morels are also set down as a part of most recipes. These in their green state have a very rich high iiavour, and are i delicious additions to some dishes, or sent ujd as a stew by themselves when they are fresh and fine ; but in this state they are not served up half a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom. When dried they become mere "chips in pottage," and serve only to soak up good gravy from which they take up more taste than they give. The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the several ingredients one to another that no particular taste be stronger than the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that the whole is dehghtful. This requires that judicious combination of the materiak which constitute the chef d wiirre of culinary science. In the first place, take care that the roots and hei'bs be perfecth' well cleaned ; proportion the water to the quantity of meat and other ingredients generally a pound of meat to a quart of water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they stew gently, little more water need be put in at first than is expected at the end for when the pot is covered quite close, and the fire gentle, very little is wasted. Gentle stewing is incomparably the best the meat is more tender and the soup better flavoured. It is of the fii-st imj ortance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. The most essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling, -wdthout any benefit, except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. An evident proof that these exhalations possess the most restorative qualities is, that the cook, who in general is the least eater, is as generally the fattest person in the family from continually being surrounded by the quintessence of all the food she dresses, whereof she sends to her master only the fibres and calcinations, who is consequently thin, gouty, and the victim of diseases arising from insufficient nourishment. It is not only the fibres of the meat which nourish us, but the juices they contain, and these are not only e.xtiacted, but exhaled, if it be boiled fast in an open vessel. A succulent soup can never be made but in a wellclosed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts by preventing their dissipation. This is a fact of which every intelligent person will soon perceive the importance. Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the water hot ?w'ithout causing it to boil, for at least half an hoiu-. If the water boils immediately, it will not jjenetrate the meat [ and cleanse it from the clotted blood and other i matters which ought to go off in scum; the j meat will be hardened allover by violent heat, wiU shrink up as if it were scorched, and give hardly any gra\- '. On the contrary, by keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling, the meat swells, becomes tender, its fibres are_ dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it appears. It is not till after a good half hour's hot ?infusion that we may mend the fire and make the pot boil ; still continue to remove the scum, and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c., and a little salt. These will cause more scum to rise, which must be taken off immediately, then cover the pot very closely, and place it at a proper distance from' the fire, where it will boil very gently, and equally, and by no means fast. By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of the ingredients are evaporated, and fly oft' with the steam, and the coarser parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose the good and get the bad. Soups will generally take from three to six hours. Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your dinner the next day ; and when the soup is cold the fat may be much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it ; when you decant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they -will escape through a sieve, or even through a tamis, which is the best strainer. The soups appear smoother and finer, and it is much easier cleaned than any sieve. If you strain it white it is hot, pass it through a clean tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold water the coldness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth to pass through. The full flavour of the ingTcdients can only be extracted by very long and slow simmering, during which take care to prevent evaporation by covering the pot as close as possible. The best stew-pot is a " digester." Clear soups mvist be perfectly transparent, thickened soups about the consistence of rich cream ; and remember that thickened soups require nearly double the quantity of seasoning. The piquance of spice, &c., is as much blunted by the flour and butter as the sisirit of rum is by the addition of sugar and acid ; so they are less salubrious, without being more savour}', from the additional quantity of spice, &c., that is smuggled into the stomach. To thicken and give body to soups and sauces the following materials are used they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughly incorporated with it, and it should have at least half an houi-'s gentle simmering after ; if it is at aU lumpj-, pass it thiough a tamis or a fine sieve bread-raspings, bread, isinglass, potato-mucilage, fat-skimmings and fiour, or floui- and butter, or flour, barley, rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well " together. To their very rich gravies, &c., the French add the white meat of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp and rubbed through a sieve ; a piece of beef which has been boiled to make broth pounded in like manner with a bit of butter and flour, and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be found a satisfactory substitute for these more expensi%'e articles. Meat from which broth has been made, and all its juice has been extracted, is then excellently well prepared for i3otting, and is quite as good or better than that which has been baked till it is dry : indeed, if it be pounded and seasoned in the usual manner it will be ap elegant sou ( 907 SOW and savoury luncheon or supper, and costs nothing- but the trouble of preparing it, wliich is very little, and a relish is procured for sandwiches, itc, of what has heretofore been by the poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the cat. Keep some spare broth, lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling- and get too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, ?arious sauces, &c., for many of Mhich it is a much better basis than melted butter. The soup of mock-turtle and the other thickened soups will supply you with a thick gravy sauce for poultry, fish, ragodts, &c., and by a little management of this sort you may generally contrive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very little trouble or expense. If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup-pot and let it boil till some of the wateiy part of it has evaporated, or else add some of the thickening materials we have before mentioned; and have at hand some plain browning. This simple preparation is much better than the compounds bearing that name, as it colours sauce or soujj without much interfering with its flavour, and is a much better way of colouring them t an bui-ning the surface of the meat. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot weather they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded tiireens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather every other day may be enough. We hope we have now put the conmion cook into possession of the whole arcana of soupmaking, -without much trouble to herseK, or exi)ense to her employers ; it need not be said in future that an Englishman only knows how to make soup in his stomach, by swiUing down a large quantity of ale or porter, to quench the tliirst occasioned by the meat he eats. John Bull may now make his souj) secundum artew, and save his principal viscera a great deal of trouble. I conclude these remarks with observing that some persons imagine that soup tends to relax the stomach. So far from being prejudicial, we consider the moderate use of such liquid nourishment to be highly salutary. Does not our food and di-ink, even though cold, become in a few minutes a kind of warm soup in the stomach ? and therefore soup, if not eaten too hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper quality, is attended with great advantages, especially to those who drink but little. Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much sooner and better than those that are cold and raw ; on this account restorative soup is the best food for those who are en- feebled by disease or dissipation ; and for old people, whose teeth and digestive organs are impaired " Half subtilised to cli.vle the liqviid. food Headiest obeys th' assimilatiug powers." After catching cold, in nervous headaches, colics, indigestion, and different kinds of cramps and spasms in the stomach, warm broth is of excellent service. After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holiday for a day or two by a diet on mutton broth or vegetable soup, 6cc., is the best way to restore its tone. The stretching any power to its utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be eveiy day obliged to do as much as it can, it v,-i]l every day be able to do less. A wise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can in one day upon a long journey. Soups, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Fish, iSou os, or Stews). Soups, Greening for {ssc Greening for Soups). Soups, Herb-powder for Flavouring. As it is not always possible to obtain fresh herbs, the cook will find it a convenience to have the following herbs powdered, stored, and ready to use in flavouring. For this pui-pose the recipe for the Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices will also be found useful; but those who object to the flavour of spices, and prefer that of herbs only, will find that the following recipe will suit them best : The herbs should be procured fresh, dried in a warm but not too hot oven, pounded in a mortar, and passed thi'ough a wire sieve. The powder should then be put into small bottles, stoppered closely, and kept in a dry place. It will retain its flavour for several months. The proportions are as follows: Two ounces of sweet marjoram, two ounces of winter savory, two ounces of dried parsley, two ounces of lemon-thyme, a quarter of an ounce of bay-leaves, a quarter of an ounce of celery-seed, an ounce of sweet basil, and an ounce of lemon-peel. Soups, Onions Burnt for {see Onions Bui-nt for Soups and Gravies). Sour Sauce for Fish. Heat a quarter of a pint of good vinegar, stir into it half a teaspoenful of made mustard, a little pepper, and a slice of fresh butter. Serv e when the butter is dissolved. Souse Pudding. Take two eggs, with their weight in flour and sugar. Whisk the eggs with the sugar, and when the puddings are about to be put into the oven, add the flour. Beat the mixture till it is light, frothy, and perfectly smooth, put it into small buttered cups, and bake these in a moderate oven. When done enough, turn the puddings out carefully, sift sugar o-\-er them, and serve. A little flavouring will be an agreeable addition. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sowens. Sowens is one of the national dishes of Scotland, made from the husk of the oat (called in Scotland sfcds) . These seeds contain a good deal of farinaceous matter after the.y are separated from the oatmeal, and this matter is convei'ted into a ver ' nourishing and palatable article of food. In some of the northern towns of Scotland iftiii sowens are drunk on Xew Year's Day morning, while "buttered sowens wi' fragrant lunt " is in i-ural districts the supper for Hallow-Eve. This dish is known in England, Wales, and Ireland as " flmnmery." It is very good eaten cold, and will turn out in a shape, making a kind of oatmeal jelly. To prepare it. soak any quantity of oatmeal seeda in a tub or large jar, and pour sow ( 908 ) SOY upon it twice its tulk in lukewarm water. Leave it for three or four days in a warm place till it turns sour. Pass the whole through a sieve, and squeeze the seeds, moistening them with a little of the liquor, to get all the goodness out of them. Let the liquor thus obtained stand till the starchy matter it contains sinks to the hottom ; then pour it off, and add fresh cold water. When the sowens are wanted, pour off the water, and mi.x as much of the starchy sediment with water as will thin it ; put a little salt into it, and boil it, stirring briskly all the time till it thickens. Pour it into a deep bowl, and serve with wine, beer, or milk. Sowens thus made will keep good for a week or more in winter. If a little that h;ia turned sour be mixed with that which is to be freshly made, it will facilitate its preparation. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to thicken the sowens. Sowens, English. Markham, in his "English Housewife" (1653), describes a food called wash-brew, eaten in England, made of the very small oatmeal, by frequent steeping of it, and then boiling it into a jelly, to be eaten with honey, milk, wine, or ale, according to taste. " I have," says he, " seen them of sickly and dainty stomachs which have eaten great quantities thereof, beyond the proportion of ordinary meats." " The Scotsman," remarks Dr. Chambers, commenting on this passage, " can be at no loss to recognise in this description the sowens of his native land, a dish formerly prevalent among the peasantry, but now comparatively little known. To illustrate Markham's remark as to the quantity of this mess that could be eaten, the writer may adduce a fact related to him by his grandmother, who was the wife of an extensive store-farmer in Peebleshire, from 1768 to 1780. A new ploughman had been hired for the farm. On the first evening, coming home just after the sowens had been prepared, but when no person was present in the kitchen, he began with one of the cogs or bowls, went on to another, and in a little time had despatched the very last of the series ; after which he coolly remarked to the maid, at that moment entering the house, ' Lass, I wish you would to-morrow night make my sowens all in one dish, and not in drippocks and drappocks that way!'" Soy. This is a kind of sauce prepared in China and Japan from a small bean, the produce of Bolichos soja. It is used with fish and other articles of diet. In choosing soy, see that it is of a good flavour, not too salt nor too sweet, of a good thick consistence, a brown colour, and clear. When shaken in a glass, it should leave a coat on the surface of a bright yeUowish-brown colour; if it do not, it is an inferior sort, and should be rejected. Chinese soy is considered inferior to that of Japan. Soy, Chinese Preparation of. Equal quantities of beans and wheat are boiled together, and then triturated between stones, water being added occasionally. The mass is cooked in a pan, and cut into thin slices, which are kept covered with straw for about twenty days. When completely fermented, the separate slices having become mouldy, they are washed with water, placed in a vessel j and their weight of water and salt added. In this condition they are kept for a number of days, and are finally again triturated between stones. Soy, Chinese (another way) . Thirty-five pounds of the shelled pulse are washed in cold water, and boiled in water enough to cover them until they are sufiiciently tender, which is ascertained by squeezing them between the finger and thumb. This requires only a few minutes to effect. They are then di-ained in a sieve, but, whilst still wet, are mixed Avith a portion of meal made of the same puLse, ground, and whick an Anglo-Indian, if he were here to see it, would immediately pronounce to be " ground gram." In this meal they are stirred until the surface of each bean is covered. The mass is now laid upon mats to the thickness of about two inches, and the beans are left to dry until the surface of the mass begins to appear mouldy. They are then dried by gradual heat in slow stoves, until they can bear the stroke of a mallet, when they are rubbed with the hand or with a hard brush to free them from the meal. Earthen pans, ready prepared, now receive them in equal portions, and a pickle is made with twenty pounds of salt dissolved in five times its weight of water, which is equally divided among the pans. These are now carefuUy covered, and kept, during six weeks or more, in a place where the temperature is nearly 100" Fahrenheit. When at length the soluble part of the beans the part that constitutes the soy is extracted, this being ascertained by the dark brown colour of the liquid in the pans, the liquid is poured oif, and boiled down to the proper consistence. This, however, is not eft'ected until after repeated boilings, during which a quantity of moist sugar, ginger, mace, and black pepper are added in quantities according to the taste of the manufacturers, each having his own peculiar ideas of flavouring, which constitutes the diftercnce between the several manufactories. After the last boiling, the soy is allowed to stand a few days, then strained, and put into flasks for sale. Soy, Japanese. The beans are first washed, then boiled with water enough to cover them until they are tender. They are then mashed in a mortar and mixed with their weight of coarse barley-meal. This mixture, being closely covered, is then placed in a warm situation, and left to ferment. AVhen the mass is suflSciently fermented, a weight of salt, equal to that of the beans originally, is dissolved in five times its weight of water, and added to the fermented mass, and is strongly stirred in it. The whole being weU covered, it remains in this state during three months, being daily agitated and beaten during two hours, after which it is again covered. It is then strained through cotton cloth, which is well pressed until every drop of liquid has passed through. The soy is now put into wooden tubs, when age fines it. After a time, when it is suflSciently clear, it is racked oft", and put into smaller wooden vessels for sale. Meanwhile, more water is poured upon the mass that remains after the straining, and soy of an inferior kind is made. Though there is no spice, nor other seasoning but salt, in the Japanese soy, it is far SPA ( 9C9 ) SPA prefei'able to that of China, and is free from the sweet treacly flavour which distinguishes the latter. Spanish Buns. Ruh haK a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg and powdered cinnamon, and also six table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and work them into a paste with four well-beaten eggs. Drop the mixture in knobs upon a floured tin, and bake these until done enough. "When half-baked, brush the surface with milk. If liked, half a pound of currants may be added to the buns, and then an additional egg or a little milk will be required. Time to bake the buns, about twenty minutes. Spanish Buns (another way). Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, a tea- spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Beat four eggs thoroughly, and work them into the mixture with two table-spoonfuls of rosewater and as much milk as will fomi a thick batter. Knead into this a quarter of a pint of yeast, cover the bowl, and leave the dough on the hearth all night. The next morning knead it again, and let it rise a second time. Butter some shallow tins, fill them three-parts full, and bake the buns in a moderate oven. When done enough, let them get cold, sift powdered sugar upon them, and with a sharp knife cut them into squares. Spanish Cakes. Blanch four ounces of sweet almonds and six or seven bitter ones, and pound them to paste with orange-flower water. Mix with them si.x ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, half a pound of dried flour, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon. Break six eggs, free them from specks, and whisk them thoroughly. Put them into a chocolate mill, and add gradually the dry ingredients, together with two table-spoonfuls of rosewater and two table-spoonfuls of light wine. Mill the mixture between every addition, and for some time after all additions have been made, and till the batter is very light. Butter a pan, and bake the cake in a slow oven. Probable cost, 2s. for a cake this size. Spanish Cakes (another way). Rub six ounces of butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Work the mixture into a paste with two wellbeaten eggs, roll it out the third of an inch thick, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake these in a moderate oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Spanish Cakes (another way). Put half a pint of water, a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar into a delicately clean saucepan over a gentle fire. Stir the mixture until it begins to boil, then draw it from the fire, and dredge into it five ounces of dried flour. Stir it briskly till it forms a soft, firm paste. Add any kind of flavouring, and work in one at a time three well-beaten eggs. Form the paste into balls the size of a walnut, brush these over with beaten egg, and sprinkle upon them chopped almonds which have been shaken in a small portion of the white of one of the eggs mixed with pounded sugar. Bake the cakes in a weU-heated oven, and when they are lightly coloured they are done enough. If liked, a spoonful of jam may be introduced into the centre of the cakes before they are sent to table. Spanish Chestnut Soup. Take fifty large Spanish chestnuts. Throw them into a pan of warm water, and when this is hot enough to burn the fingere take the nuts out, peel and scrape them, and throw each one as it is done into a pan of cold water. When all are ready, wipe the chestnuts, cover them with good stock, and let them simmer gently till they break when touched with a spoon or fork. Drain and crush them, mix with them a quart of stock, and rub the soup thi-ough a fine sieve. Add as much salt, cayenne, and mace as will flavour it pleasantly. JBoil it up again, mix with it o?P the fire a quarter of a pint of boiling cream, and serve immediately. If its sweetness is not objected to, the whole or part of the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled may be added to the soup. If brown soup is preferred instead of white, the chestnuts, after being scalded, peeled, and scraped, may be steamed with two ounces of butter, a sliced onion, half an ounce of loaf sugar, and a little pepper and salt. When tender, they should be drained and crushed, mixed with a quart of good brown gravy, and then boiled and rubbed through a fine sieve reversed. The puree, when made hot, will be ready for serving. Time to boil the chestnuts, three-quarters of an hour. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Spanish Cream. Boil half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water till it is dissolved. WTien nearly cold, strain it through muslin, and mix with it a pint of cream or milk. Stir it over the fire till it boils, let it cool a little, then add gradually the wellbeaten yolks of three eggs, any flavouring that may be preferred, and a glassful of light wine. Stir it until nearly cold, pour it into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place till set. When wanted for use, dip it into hot water for half a minute, shake it well to loosen the edges, place the dish upon the mould, and turn it out quickly. Time, two or three minutes to boil the preparation. Suflicient for a pint and a half of cream. Probable cost, if made with cream, and exclusive of the wine, 2s. 6d. Spanish Ham. The following is a Spanish cook's recipe for boiling a Spanish ham : "Put the ham into cold water to soak for sixteen or eighteen hours; scrape and trim it well, putting it into cold water to simmer. Add to the water a tea-cupful of vinegar and a large tea-cupful of brown sugar ; simmer five hours. A pint of sherry wine put into the water instead of the vinegar improves the flavour of the ham." Spanish Ham (another way). Soak the ham in cold water for a couple of days before cooking it. Take it up, scrape it well, trim it neatly, put it into a stewpan, with as much cold SPA (910) SPA water as will cover it, and let it boil gently for an hour. Clean and cut into small pieces a couple of carrots, two onions, and two shallots, and fry them in a little butter with a couple of bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, and a head of celery. Stir these ingredients over the fire until' they are slightly coloured. Pour upon them as much boiling stock, or, failing this, boiling water, as vnll cover the ham, and add three or four cloves, half a blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. A glassful of light wine may be added, or not. Simmer the ham in the liquor thus prepared tiU it is done enough, and let it remain in it till cold. Take ii; up, trim it in the usual way, and either brush it over with liquid glaze or cover it with bread-raspings. Spanish hams are of three sorts Bayonne, [Montauehes, and Grenada hams. Time to simmer the ham_ in the stock, about four hours. Cost, varying with the size, weight, and condition of the market. Spanish Olla. The Spanish OUa, as communicated by Don Felix Antonio de Alvarado, a native of the city of Seville, in Spain, is made as follows: "The true oUa which they make in Spain is composed of several sorts of meat, as beef, mutton, veal, and bacon ; then put in also the cars and feet of a hog, a pullet, with some sausages; moreover, they put in colewoi-ts, turnips, and Spanish peas, which they call garvan(;os. It must all be boiled together for four hours to be a true olla. 'Tis reported of the Marquis Chapin (Ciappoini?) Vitello, an Italian, who was one of the best soldiers that nation ever bred, that he had so great a liking to this sort of olla when he was in Spain, that he never cared to dine at home, but walking about the streets, if he smelt in any citizen's house this sort of victuals, he went in there, and sat down at his tixble to dine with him. Before he went out, he ordered his steward to pay the charge of the whole dinner." Spanish Omelet. Mince finely as much fat and lean ham as will fill a small tea-cup, and add two finely -minced button -onions. Beat six eggs, stir the ham, &c., into them, and fry the omelet in the usual way. A true Spanish omelet would be made with garlic, instead of onion, but this would be too strong for ordinary palates. Spanish Onions (?e Onions, Spanish). Spanish Onions, To Pickle. Choose moderate-sized and perfectly sound _ Spanish onions. Skin them, and cut them into thin slices, put them in layers into wide-mouthed bottles, and sprinkle upon each layer a little salt and cayenne. When the jar is almost full, pour cold vinegar into it to cover the onions, tie bladder over the mouth of the bottles, and store the pickle in a cool, dry place. If liked, the jar may be filled with alternate layers of sliced onion and sliced boiled beetroot, and then three or four drops of cochineal may be added to the vinegar, to improve the look of the pickle. For another mode of pickling Spanish onions, see Onions, Spanish, Pickled. Time, the pickle may be used in three or four weeks. Probable cost, onions, Id. or Ud. each. Spanish Pudding. Cut half a dozen penny sponge cakes into thin slices lengthwise. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, sift powdered sugar on the butter, and line the inside of the dish evenly and neatly with the slices. Press them with the hand to keep them in position. Afterwards fill the dish with alternate layers of sliced sponge cake and apricot jam, and pominto it as much sherry or marsala as the cakes will absorb. Beat foiu- eggs briskly, pour them over the cakes, and bake the pudding in a slow oven. When it is set, take it out, let it cool, and turn it out carefully. Have ready the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth, pile them on the pudding, and sprinkle a little powdered sugar with the froth. Put it in the oven to sot the egg, and serve the pudding with custard-sauce poured round it. Time to bake the pudding, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Spanish Puffs. Put half a pint of water or milk into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a pinch of salt, a little sugar, and as much grated nutmeg or lemon-peel as will flavom- the liquor pleasantly. Stii' it till it boils, mix in gradually and smoothly four table-spoonfuls of flour, and beat the mixture over the fire for about three minutes. Take it off the fire, and stir in, one at a time, the yolks of six and the whites of four eggs. Let the batter cool, form it into small balls the size of a walnut, and fry these in plenty of boiling fat till they burst. AVhilst they are being fried, move them carefully about, that they may be equally cooked. Drain them, dust powdered sugar upon them, dish them on a napkin, and serve immediately. Send some wine-sauce to table with them. ' If liked, puft's thus made can be flavoured with a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and may be thus converted into ginger pufiis. Spanish Rice. Boil half a pound of rice as for curry, then toss it lightly over a slow fire with a spoonful of salad-oil till it is a bright-yeUow colour. Unless great care is taken the rice will bm-n. Free two large ripe tomatoes from the seeds and juice, and afterwards stir them in with the rice, add a seasoning of black pepper and grated Parmesan, and serve the rice piled on a hot dish. Garnish the rice with thin shces of ham, German sausage, or di-icd and smoked fish. If ripe tomatoes cannot be procured, a table-spoonful of tomato sauce may be used instead. Spanish Salad. Put into the centre of a dish some cold dressed French beans, and at the moment of serving stir them up lightly with a little mayonnaise sauce or salad cream of any kind. Garnish the beans with three or four ripe tomatoes cut in slices and arranged in a circle, one slice overlapping another. If preferred, and more convenient, cold dressed Windsor beans, haricot beans, or green peas, or a mixture of all or any of these, may be used instead of French beans. Spanish Sauce (called also Espagnol Sauce and Brown Sauce). If a large quantity of sauce is required, butter a copper siewpan SPA ( 911 ) SPA that is capable of holding three or four gallons of sauce, or, if preferred, lay flattened pieces of beef suet at the bottom of the stewpan. Place thick slices of onion upon the suet, or thin sHces of lean ham on the butter, and on these put thick slices of beef or veal and any bones and trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. A little lean ham, a knuckle-bone of ham, some bacon-rind scalded and scraped, or the carcase of a cold roast rabbit or fowl, will very much improve the flavour of the sauce. Pour in as much stock made from bones, or water, as will barely cover the surface of the meat. Cover the saucepan, set it on a brisk fire, and let it boil quickly till it turns to glaze or thin gum. As soon as this point is reached, slacken the heat of the fire, and let the sauce remain gently simmering until it becomes thick and sticky, and, without being at all burnt, has acquired a bright brown colour. Fill up the stewpan with cold stock or water (allowing a quart of water for a pound and a half of meat and bones). Let it boil, skim carefully, and add two or three carrots, a bundle of outer sticks of celery, a small piece of mace, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Simmer all gently together for three hours. Keep skimming the sauce as required, and strain it ofi: for use. Let it get cold, then remove every particle of fat from it. When wanted, boil the quantity needed, thicken with roux or brown thickening, and let it boil tm it is of the consistency of cream, carefully removing the fat as it is thrown up. Pass it through a fine sieve, and it will be ready for use. A glassful of sherry or madeira may be added if liked. When any quantity of brown sauce is wanted, it should be made the day before it is to be used. In cool weather it will keep for four or five days. It should be looked at every day, and boiled up if necessary. Time, foiir to five hours. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Spanish Sauce, Highly Flavoured. Dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, and throw into it a quarter of a pound of lean ham cut into dice, four sliced shallots, a dozen mushrooms cleaned and cut small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, a dozen peppercorns, half a blade of mace, and three cloves. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire tiU a red tinge appears round the inside of the saucepan. Add gradually a pint of clear stock, and simmer the sauce gently for three-quarters of an hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain the sauce, add cayenne and salt if necessary, and thicken with a little brown thickening. Let it simmer again, that it may throw up the fat, and carefully remove this tiil no more appears. A few minutes before the sauce is to be served stir into it a wine-glassful j of shcrrj'- or madeira. Time, altogether, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Spanish Sauce made from. Bones. 1 Take the bone of a leg of mutton or of a piece I of beef weighing six or seven pounds. Break it into small pieces, and put these into a stewpan with a large onion stuck with three cloves, a sliced I carrot, half a dozen outer sticks of celery (or, if this is not at hand, as much bruised celeryseed as will lie on a threepenny-piece), a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTne, a couple of leeks (if they can be had) , half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Pour over these ingredients three quarts of cold water. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer ge-ntly for four hours, or xxntil it is reduced to two quarts. Strain it, and when it is cold take away any fat there may be on the top. When Spani.sii sauce is wanted, take as much of this stock as will make the requisite quantity; make it hot, and dissolve a little Liebig's Extract of ]\Ieat in it a quarter of a tea-spoonful will be suflicient for a pint. Thicken with brown thickening, let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease, strain through a sieve, and serve. When browm thickening is not at hand, a substitute may be made as follows : Knead together in a saucepan equal proportions of butter and flour. Stir this paste quickly over a slow fire for three minutes till it is brightly coloured without being at all burnt. Moisten it with the stock, let the sauce simmer gently to throw up the grease, and when it is smooth and thick it will be ready for serving. Time, five hours. Probable cost, 3d. per pint. Spanish Sauce (M. L'de's way). Besides some slices of ham, put into a stewpan some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for the cuUis ; sweat them in the like manner ; let all the glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour moisten with a few spoonfuls of stock-broth liquor to detach the glaze; then pour in the cuUis. Let the whole boil for half an hour to remove all the fat. Strain it through a clean tamis. Remember always to put some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, into these sauces. It is necessary to observe to the professors of cookery that the flavour proceeds from the seasoning, and if the necessary articles are neglected to be put to a nicety into the sauces, the flavour will be deficient. Mind that the sauce or broth when kept too long on the fire loses the proper taste, and acquires instead a strong and disagreeable one. Spanish Sauce, Quickly made. Peel an onion, split it in halves, stick a clove in each half, and put these into a saucepan with a bunchof parsley, a tea-spoonful of gelatine, half a dozen celer}--seeds, and a pinch of dried tarragon, if it is at hand. Boil all gently together with a pint of water till the gelatine is dissolved, strain oif the liquor, and stir into it a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat ; add as much salt as will be necessary to bring out the flavour. Thicken the gravy with a small piece of brown thickening. If this is not at hand, mix together small equal portions of flour and butter, stir the paste quickly over a brisk fire till it is brightly coloured, moisten with the stock, boil till smooth, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Spanish Sauce, To make a small quantity of. Butter a stewpan, and lay in the bottom of it a couple of slices of lean ham and a pound of lean beef or veal, or half a pound SPA ( 912 ) SPE of each cut into small pieces. Pour upon the meat as much stock or water as will barely cover its surface, and boil it until it becomes thick like gum. Check the heat of the fire a little, and simmer the preparation until it is brightly coloured, taking care that it does not bum. Add gradually a pint of stock or water, and put into the saucei an with the liquor a sliced carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, half a bay-leaf, an onion stuck with two cloves, two shallots, a quarter of a blade of mace, and four or five pejipercoms. Simmer the sauce for about an hour, or till it is strong and agTeeably flavoured, strain it, and let it stand till cold. When wanted, remove the cake of fat from the top, heat the sauce, thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, and simmer till it is of the consistency of cream. Remove the fat as it is thrown up, add a glassful of sherry or madeira, and serve. Time, altogether, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Spanish Sauce with Game. This is the same as Simnish Sauce (M. Ude's way), except that in this are introduced the loins and trimmings of either young or old partridges, pheasants, rabbits, &c., that this sauce may taste of game. Put them to sweat. Eemember that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, lose their savour and the game flavour. This method may be thus shortened : Prepare a small consomme of game by skinning a couple or more of partridges ; fillet them, and take the back, legs, and bones, and put them into a stewpan with a little broth to sweat gently in the stove for one hour ; when done, reduce it to glaze ; then, by putting a small bit of that glaze in either sauce, it will save time and e.xpense, and will answer much better to give it the taste of game. Spanish Sausages, or Chorissas. Take equal weights of fat and lean pork taken from the prime parts of the animal; mince this finely, and season strongly with garlic and cayenne. Pour over it as much dry sherrj' as will cover it, and let it stand in a cool place for three or four days till it has absorbed the liquor. Put the meat into large skins, and moisten with the liquor that remains. Tie the sausages in links, and hang them in a cool, dry place. They Nvill keep for six or eight months, \ len wanted, drop the sausages into hot water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Serve them with rice boiled as for curry. Time to boil the sausages, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Spanish Soup. Take a piece of the shin of beef weighing about four pounds, and one pound of the knuckle of ham. Break the bones into small pieces with a cleaver, and tie the meat with string to keep it in shape. Put it into a large pot, and pour over it a gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor gently to the point of boiling, remove the scum carefully, and, before it fully boils, throw half a tea-spoonful of cold water into it once or twice, to assist the scum in rising. Add a little pepper, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently and steadily for two hours and a half. Blanch a table-spoonful of rice, throw it into the soup, and boil it an hour longer. Half an hour before the soup is to be served, put into it a pint of Brussels sprouts and an onion thinly sliced. If preferred, other vegetables may be added to or substituted for the sprouts. They must be blanched and stewed in the soup long enough to cook them, and no longer. Remove the bones from the soup, take up the meat, put it on a dish, garnish with the sprouts, and serve very hot. Send the soup to table in a tureen. If the ham has not made the broth sutficiently salt, a little more salt should be added. Time, three hours and a half from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Spanish Soup (another way). Butter a large stewpan thickly; place in it, in an even layer, two large onions cut in slices, four ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and two pounds of freshly-killed juicy beef cut into pieces two inches square. Add any bones and trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, or if i an old pheasant, partridge, or hen can be proI cured at a small expense, truss it for boiling, : brown it in a saucepan with a little butter, and lay it upon the meat. Pour over these ingredients as much stock as will barely cover them, and boil quickly tiU it begins to thicken and look like gum. Slacken the heat of the fire, and let the saucepan remain on it till this gum has become a bright-brown colour ; pour upon it two quarts of stock or water, and add a large carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of garKc the size of a pea, half a blade of mace, and two cloves. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and when cold remove the fat from the surface. Prepare about a pint and a half of mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and Spanish peas. Let these be cut into strips or shapes of an equal size, and partially boil them in plain water. Boil the soup, throw the vegetables into it, and let them remain until done enough. About twenty minutes before the soup is to be served, put into it some small pork sausages, and when these are done enough, serve them with the vegetables in the tureen with the soup. Time, two hours to simmer the stock. Probable cost, Is. '?6d. per pint. Spatzen (sparrows or batter flakes; a C4erman recipe). Stir flour into cold water and milk, with a little salt, to make a thick batter ; beat it well with a wooden spoon. Drop little flakes or buttons into boiling water. This is easiest done by putting some of the batter on a trencher or flat plate, and flaking it quickly off into the pot with a knife dipped constantly in the water. Boil them five minutes ; they will swim on the top when done. Strain and dish them. Have ready a piece of butter melted in a stewpan, and a handful of crumbs in it, crisped brown. Pour this over the spatzen, and serve while they are light and hot. A piece of butter may be stirred in as they are dished. If preferred richer, use an egg or two, and mUk alone for the batter. German National Cookery. Speaker's Pudding. Butter a plain mould thickly, dredge flour upon it, and arrange SPE (913) SPI some raisins in even rounds on the inside ; line it with thin strips of crumb of breud which have been dned before the fire and well buttered. After lining, fiU the mould with alternate layers of raisins, sugar, and strips of bread, and let the topmost layer be of bread. Mi.x the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint of milk, add sugar and flavouring, and pour the custard upon the bread. Let it soak for two hours. Bake or steam the pudding, and when done enough tm-n it out carefully upon a hot dish, and send sweet sauce to table with it. Time to bake the pudding, about an hour ; to steam it, an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Spearmint. ? This species of mint is employed in salads and sauces, as weU as dried for soups in winter. There are two varieties the broad and the narrow-leaved; both are equally good. Spice Biscuits, Almond {see Almond Spice Biscuits). Spice Cakes. These are the French gateaux d'epice; they are made of the following ingredients : Treacle, one pint, the very freshest butter, half a pound, powdered ginger, an ounce, powdered cinnamon, an ounce, powdered allspice, a quarter of an ounce, coriander seeds and small cardamom seeds pounded, each a quarter of an ounce, candied lemon-peel chopped very fine, two ounces, tincture of vanilla, six drojDS, flour, as much as necessary. These ingredients are to be thus manipulated : the treacle being set over the fire, the butter is to be added, and, successively, all the other ingredients, except the flour. Let them, when well mixed, take a single boil, stirring all the while, then set them to cool. When cold, mix in with a wooden spoon as much flour as will convert the whole into a pretty stiff paste. Butter a tin bakingdish, and lay on it with the spoon the paste in bits of the size and shape necessary to form the small cakes or nuts. Set the baking-dish in the oven. You may ascertain when these cakes are done by taking one out of the oven, and letting it cool. If, when cold, it is hard, they are done enough. These are considered the ne plus tdtra of French gingerbread-nuts. Spice, Mixed, for Seasoning Sauces, Stews, &C. Take two dozen allspice, the rind of three lemons, a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve cloves, and two nutmegs. Powder the ingredients, first separately, and afterwards together, and mix with them a saltspoonful of cayenne and three ounces of white pepper. Put the powder into a perfectly di-y and sound bottle, cork closely, and store in a dry place tiU wanted. It will retain its flavour for months. Spice, Mixed (another way), Take three quarters of an ounce of ground allspice, threeqmirters of an ounce of ground black pepper, three-quarters of an ounce of grated nutmeg, an ounce and a half of ground ginger, a dozen cloves powdered, and nine ounces of salt. Slix these ingredients thoroughly, put the powder into a dry, closely-stoppered bottle, and keep it corked for use. 62 Spice, Mixed, for White Sauce (s cKitchen Mixed Spice, &c.). Spice Nuts (a German recipe) . Take four eggs and beat them up ; stir in a pound of sifted sugar, half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves, and the peel of a lemon cut very fine. Stir these ingredients together for a quarter of an hour, then add by degrees a pound of flour and two ounces of candied peel. When this is well mixed, drop the preparation on buttered tins in small lumps. Bake in a moderate oven. Spices. Under this head are ranged those vegetable products which are fragrant to the smell and pungent to the palate. "AU the substances classed as spices are the product of tropical climates onlj' ; none of our native plants, and no plants that come to maturity in the open air in this climate, possess sufficient aromatic flavour to be reckoned amongthe spices. The most valuable of these natural productions were originally found in the islands situated in the Indian Ocean, called the Spice Islands or Moluccas, and were probiibly conveyed from them in the most distant ages." The chief spices are pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, allspice, &c. Spices, Wholesomeness of. On the use of foreign spices we may quote Dr. Paris, in his work "On Diet." "These are not," he says, " intended by Nature for the inhabitants of temperate climes : they are heating and highly stimulant. I am, however, not anxious to give more weight to this objection than it deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the passive inhabitant of any particular region ; he ranges over every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the productions of every climate. It may be, therefore, necessary that he should accompany the ingestion of foreign aliment with foreign condiment. Nature is very kind in favouring the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender endemic diseases are in general congenial to the growth of the plants which operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the East for tea, there is no reason why we should not go to the West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be cautious in their use, for they may afford temporary benefit at the expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said that the best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should always be suspected when they require spicy seasoning to compensate for their natural want of sapidity." Spinach. Spinach is a vegetable of an agreeable taste, light, and wholesome. It contains, however, very little nourishment. It should be washed in two or throe waters, then drained on a sieve instead of being dried in a cloth, as it is very delicate, and needs to bo gently handled. It is generally boiled, and served %vith meat as a puree, or with cream or gravj' ; or it may be pressed into a mould, and SM (914 ) SPI served in a shape with poached eggs laid upon it. It is to be had during tho spring and autiunn. Turnip-tops, dfindelion leaves, bcetr?ot-top8, and even nettles, are sometimes served as a substitute for it. Spinach, Boiled (common English method). Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, wash the leaves in several waters, lift them out with the hands that the sand or grit may remain at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightly salted as will keep them from burning, and let them boil until tender. Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it well; chop it small, and put it into a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh butter. Stir it well for five minutes. Serve on a hot di.sh, and garnish with fried sippets. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Spinach Cream. Break the yolks of four eggs in a bowl, and free them from specks. Beat them well, and stir into them the third of a pint of hot milk and half a pint of thick cream. Sweeten the mixture, and put it into a saucepan with half a stick of cinnamon. Stir it over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken ; add half a quarter of a pint of spinach juice, and stir it again till it is equally coloured. Slice some sponge biscuits, put them into a glass dish, pom- the cream upon them, and lay thin strips of candied fruit on the surfiice. Serve cold. If preferred, macaroons or preserved oranges ma.y be substituted for tho sponge biscuits, or the cream may be served in custard glasses. To prepare the spinach juice, see Spinach, Green, for Colouring. Time, a few minutes to simmer the custard. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for a moderate-sized supper-dish. Spinach, Croustades of. Cut some bread into the shape of hearts, and sht them all round, then fi-y them in butter. Araange the heai-ts in the fomi of a rosette. Next cut a round of bread, which slit in the same way, and place it in the centre over the points of the hearts. Fry them till they are of a fine brown, then cut out the interior, take out all the crumb, and fill the space left with spinach, either with cream or consomme. Spinach, Dandelion-leaves dressed like. When spinach is out of season, dandelion leaves may be substituted for it. The young leaves only should be used, and they may be boiled and served just like spinach. As they shrink very much in boihng, a large quantity will be required for a moderate-sized dish. Turnip-tops, beetroot-tops, and even young nettles, as we have remarked elsewhere, may all be used as substitutes for spinach. Spinach, Dressed. Pick the leaves from the stem, wash them well, and throw them into a large saucepan of boiling water to which a considerable quantity of salt has been added. Boil fast for ten minutes, then strain on the back of a sieve or colander ; press the spinach . in a napkin, and squeeze out all the water that remains. Put the spinach into a stewpan with a little butter, pepper and salt, and about ten minutes before serving place it on the stove to be made hot ; add about half a cupful of cream, pile the spinach on the dish, and send to table. " When spinach," says 51. Ude, " is dressed to put under meat, whether fricandeau or sweetbread, &c., it must be more highlj seasoned than when dressed for entremets, and a little more liquid, as it is like sauce. Spinach is often used in sweet dishes to dye the almonds or make the green colour of the marbled biscuit. Pound in the mortar some of the spinach, and squeeze the juice out of it by pressing it through a towel ; put the liquor into a small stewpan, and place the stewpan in a hot water bath to poach. Vlien the green is settled at the bottom of the stewpan, drain it through a silk sieve, and use it for almonds, or whatever else requires green." " Spinach, English." Garden patience is known in Germany as English spinach. It was formerly much cultivated in this country, but is now neglected. Spinach, French mode of Dressing. Prepare the spinach exactly as in Spinach with Gravy. When it has been boiled, drained, soaked in cold v ater, squeezed dry, and chopped small, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, and stir the spinach in it over the fire till it is hot and dry. Add to it gradually two or three s joonfuls of boiling cream. Add a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar and a little salt, and stir the mixture over the fire till the moisture is absorbed; then serve the spinach very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sipi ets, or freshly-baked jDieces of puil paste cut into fancy shapes. Time, altogether, about one hour. Probable cost, spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Spinach Fritters. Take spinach and boil it thoroughly, draia it well, mince, and add some gi-ated bread, nutmeg, ginger, and cinnamon, all pounded. Add as much cream or yolks and whites of eggs as will make the preparation of the consistence of batter ; scald SPI (915 ) SPI a few currants, and mix thorn in. Drop the batter into a frying-pan on boiling lard ; when tbe frittei-s rise, take thcin out, di-ain, and send to table. Spinach, Green, for Colouring Soups, Sweet Dishes, &;c. Wash any quantity of spinach, and put it with the moisture still clinging to it into a mortar, and pound it to pulp. Press it through a sieve, or squeeze it in a cloth to obtain as much juice as possible from it. Pour the juice into a jar, and set this into a pan of water on the point of boiling, and let it simmer till the juice is set. Take it when thus finished, and lay it on a sieve, to drain the water from it. Place it in a covered basin, and keep it in a cool place till wanted. If soup is to be coloured, mix a little greening with a little boiling stock, and add the remainder. If sweet dishes are in question, mix a little of the prepared juice with finelypowdered sugar, and add this to the ingredients. Time to poach the juice, three or four minutes. Spinach, German Mode of Cooking. " Spinach," says thecompilerof " G-erman National Cookery," " requires to lie in water a little while, and te be several times rinsed in fresh water. Put it into boiling water with salt ; give it eight or ten minutes gentle boiling tmcovered. If its earthy flavour is objected to, throw it into plenty of cold water when boiled enough, then drain, and prcs.s it dry ; chop it fine. Make butter hot, throw it into some grated bread-crumbs, then add the spinach. Or make a thick butter-sauce, and stir the spinach into this to get thoroughly hot. Serve garnished with either cutlets, sausages, hardboiled eggs sliced, and sippets of buttered toast, or poached eggs. If the full flavour of the spinach is liked, simply wash it well, clear it of the large stems, and drain it. Put a piece of butter in a saucepan, and when melted put in the spinach ; cover, and as it shrinks put in more. Let it cook in its own juice. Sprinkle salt over as you put it in. Spinach in Consomme. Take particular care when the spinach is picked that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it. The least oversight may cause the spinach to bo good for nothing, in spite of whatever trouble you may take in cooking it. It should bo washed several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float with ease. Put a great deal of salt that it may preserve its green colour, and press it down frequently with a wooden spoon tliat it may be done equally. When it has boiled a few times, try whether it can be squeezed easily between your two fingers; then, without loss of time, put it into a colander to drain the hot water. Next put it into a great quantity of cold water to keep it green. When it is quite cold make it into balls, and squeeze it well till quite diy. Then spread it on the table with your knife to ascertain that no improper substance is left among it. Chop it very Lne ; put a good piece of butter into a stewpan, and lay the spinach o\'er the butter. Let it dry over a gentle fire, and then dredge it with a spoonful of flour. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of consomme, and let it stew briskly that it may not turn yellow. Make it rich with a small bit of glaze. If you intend to send it up as an entree with a ham or a tong-ue, &c., you must mix a few spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and let it be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg ; in that case you may grate a little into it. Spinach thus prepared may be used witli a fricandeau, sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of -eal or of mutton. Spinach, Lamb Cutlets and (sec Lamb Cutlets and Spinach). Spinach Omelet. Beat a large tablespoonful of flour smoothly with four tablespoonfuls of cold milk; add two ounces of butter melted, a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and the yolks of four wellbeaten eggs. Wash thoroughly ;ind afterwards shred finely a quarter of a poimd of spinach, a quarter of a pound of beet, half an ounce of parsley, a quarter of an ounce of lemon-thyme, and a quarter of an ounce of leeks. Mix the chopped vegetables together, and stir them into the soup. Butter a pie-dish tliickly just before the omelet is to be baked ; whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, stir them into the preparation, turn it into a butter dish, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Suflicient for three or four persons. Spinach, Ox Tail Stewed with {see Ox Tail Stewed with Green Peas or Spinach). Spinach, Plainly Dressed. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and wash the spinach in several waters to free it from sand and grit. Put it into a large saucepan with as much water only as will keep it from burning ; add a . small spoonful of salt, and turn it fi'equently till it is quite tender. Drain it on a colander, squeeze it dry, chop it small, and add pepper and salt. Put it when thus chopped again into the colander, place this over the fire upon a saucepan of boiling water with a small lump., of butter, and turn the vegetable about that the steam passing through the holes of the. colander maj' dry the vegetable. When hot and quite dry, ser 'e immediately. Sometimes fried sippets of bread are put round the spinach, or bread fried and cut into dice is sprinkled upon it. Time to boil the spinach, ten minutes or more, according to the age of the leaves. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Suflicient, two poimds for four or five persons. Spinach Pudding. Take six good tablespoonfuls of spinach when boiled, pressed, and chopped (or, it may be, spinach dressed the pre- ? vious day) ; add the same quantity of breadcrumbs soaked in milk and drained, a little salt, grated nutmeg, or mace, and four egf: beaten up ; mix all well together ; butter a pudding-mould, and boil one hour and a half. Spinach pudding is eaten with melted butter or shrimp sauce. Spinach, Puree of, with Butter. Pick the stalks from three pounds of spinach, and wash it in two or three waters. Lift it out of the water with the fingers that the sand SPI (OiG) SPA may settle at the bottom, and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightlj' salted as will keep it from burning. Keep it boiling till it is tender, and press it under the water occasionally with a wooden spoon. Drain it well ; carefully pick away any stalks or fibre that may still remain in it, and rub it through a coarae sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and stir it brisklj' over the fire till it is quite hot. Add a spoonful or two of sauce, and let it remain on the fire, stirring all the time, for five minutes. Serve very hot, and garnish with fried sippets, or pile it in the centre of a di.)h, and place lamb or mutton cutlets on end round it, the long bones inclining towards each other. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Spinacli Sauce, for Boiled Fowls, &C. Wash the spinach in two or three waters. Pick the leaves from the stalks, drain it, and stew it with as much water only as will keep it from burning. Squeeze the moisture from it, and l eat it with a wooden spoon till smooth. Dissolve a slice of fi'esh butter in a sauceijan, put in the spinach, and stir it till it is quite hot and dry. Add pepper and salt and as much boiling milk as will make the sauce of the consistency of thick cream. Stir till smooth, and serve very hot. Time to boil the spinach, about ten minutes. Spinacli Soup. Wash some freshlygathered young spinach leaves. Shred finely as many as will fill a large basin, and put with them a lettuce, also finel}' shred, and two or three leaves of sorrel. Throw them into boiling water, and let them boil quickly for five or six minutes. Drain them, put them into plenty of cold water to preserve the colour, and squeeze the moisture from them. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix it smoothly with a heaped table-spoonful of flour ; add the vegetables gradually, and when they are roughly blended with the water and flour, pour in, little by little, two quarts of boiling water or vegetable stock. Boil all gently together for a quarter of an hour. Put in a quarter of a pint of boiling milk or cream, and pepper and salt, if required, and serve very hot. Time, about an hour. Spinach. Soup (another way). Prepare the spinach as recommended in the article Spinach, Dressed; boil it for about six or seven minutes, press the water out, put it in a stewpan with some butter, a little flour, a small onion, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry on the stove for a short time, then add a little good stock, and let the soup simmer slowly for about twenty minutes. Pass it through a fine hair sieve, put it back into the stewpan, add a small pat of butter, a piece of glaze, and a little sugar and salt. Let the soup boil, then serve with small croiitons of fried bread. Spinach. Soup (a la Francjaise). Make as much clear stock as vill be needed, and put it boiling hot into the tureen. Have ready some spinach boiled in the usual way. Press this till quite dry, season with pepper and salt, and make it into balls the size of a walnut. ] Gently and carefully slip these into the golden . I coloured stock. The contrasting colours in tho soup will have a very good appearance. Spinach Soup (a meagre soup). Take chopped spinach, sorrel, chervil, and lettuce, but not very fine; fry them in butter until browned, put them to the desired quantity of boiling water with an onion stuck round with cloves, a very stale French roll sliced, and some blanched and shred pistachio kernels. Let all simmer together. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with a little wine and the juice of a lemon, and add to the broth when strained. Serve with a toasted French roU in the centre of the dish, j and garnish -with poached egg and scalded spinach. Spinach Soup (a meagre soup another way). Put six ounces of butter in a stewpan; when browned, throw in three sliced onions, three heads of celerj', two handfuls of sjjinach, some cabbage, three turnips, three cabbagelettuces, a bunch of parsley, a little water, and season with white pepper and salt to taste. Stew all together gently for half an hour, then add two quarts of water. Simmer till the roots are tender, when any portion, or the whole, may be taken out. Put in the crust of a French roll, and serve. Spinach, To Ser\re. This vegetable must be chopped very completely, so that each of its leaves may be separated from the others, by holding them close together and cutting the spinach below the head. Next wash it nicely in a proper-sized bowl, set water on the fire to boil, adding some salt, which will impart a beautiful green colour to the spinach. Boil the spinach till it becomes tender. Place the boiled spinach on a colander or sieve, press it, chop it on a clean board, put it into a saucepan, add butter and broth taking care, however, not to thin it too much with the broth and taste whether it is salt enough. While boiling on a gentle fire, add lastly a spoonful or so more or less according to the quantity of spinach of flour mixed smoothly with cold water, grated bread-crumbs, or flour stewed in melted butter. If cream a day old is to be obtained, we may finally incorporate a little flour with it, and add the whole to the spinach. To embellish this dish, cut milk bread into slices, forming the crust into points, fry in butter till yellow, prepare poached eggs, and serve the spinach, placing round it first an egg and then a crust alternately, sprinkhng bread-crumbs over the vegetable itself. Spinach with Cream. Boil and drain two pounds of spinach in the usual way. Press it between two plates to free it thoroughly from moisture, and heat it in a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a small lump of butter. When it is diy, add very gi-adually four table-spoonfuls of boiling cream, and simmer it gently for five minutes. Serve very hotIf liked, gravy may be substituted for the cream. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Suflicient for three or four persons. Spinach with Cream (ancther way). Blanch and prepare it in the usual way, only use SPI (917) SPI cream instead of "broth. Boil the cream before you throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the cream only is lost, whereas otherwise you ?would lose the spinach, butter, and all. Spinach ?with cream requires a little sugar and nutmeg. It is needless to repeat that a little salt is also requisite, as there co.n bo no good seasoning ?without it. You must t'lways have fried toasts of bread round the spinach when you send it up to table. Spinach, with. Eggs. Wash the spinach in several ?vwaters. Pick off all the stalks, reject the decayed and discoloured leaves, and boil the spinach with as nmch slightly-salted water as ?will keep it from burning. Leave the saucepan imcovered. Press the spinach under the water occasionally, and let it boil till tender. Put it into a colander, and press the moisture from it with the back of a plate. Mince it finely, then put it into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and stir it well till it is hot and dry. Put it on a hot dish, smooth it ?with the blade of a knife, and mark it in squares. Place as many poached eggs as there are guests on the top of the spinach, or, if preferred, put them round it, each egg on a piece of buttered toast. Serve the whole very hot. If a superior dish is required, the spinach, after being boiled till tender, may be rubbed through a wire sieve, and the pulp heated with a slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of thick cream, and a little pepper and salt. To poach the eggs, proceed as follows : Break the eggs carefully into separate cups. Have ready a small omelet-pan with as much boiling water in it as "svill cover the eggs. Throw into this a teji-spoonf ul of vinegar and a pinch of salt. Slip the eggs gently into the water one at a time. As soon as one sets, put in another, and boil them gently until done enough. When the yolks are covered with a thin filmy veil, and the whites are fimi, lift the eggs out ?with a slice, drain them for a moment, and place them on the spinach. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Spinach with Gravy. Take three pounds of spinach. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and wash them well in se\eral Avaters, drain them, throw them into a saucepan with plenty of slightly-salted boiling water, and let them boil for five minutes. Press the spinach, and throw it into cold water for half an hour to presers'e the colour. Take it out of the water a little at a time, make it into small balls, press the moisture thoroughly from it, spreiid it on a dish, pick out any stalks or straws that may have been inadvertently left in it, and chop it small. Mix an ounce of butter smoothly in a saucepan with an ounce of flour, add a pinch of salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for three minutes. Put in the spinach, and stir it for five minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint of stock, and when this is thoroughly blended with the vegetable add, a Uttle at a time, half a pint more: stir the spinach again for five minutes. Lift it from the fire, stir into it till dissolved an ounce of fresh butter, and serve very hot. Garnish tlie dish with triangular pieces of crumb of bread half an inch thick. Spinach when thus dressed will csnstitute an enjoyable accompaniment to veal or boiled mutton. With roast meat it is best when served plain. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. SuflScient for six or eight persons. Spinach with Gravy (another way). Prepare the spinacli exactly as in the foregoing recipe. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in the spinach, and stir it tiU the butter has dried away. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and as much, grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence. Stir it again, and moisten with two table-spoonfula of highly-seasoned veal broth and a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar. Stir it over the fire till the Hquid is absorbed, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for si.x or eight ; Spirit of Lemon-peel. When fresh lemons cannot be procured, mix two ounces of rectified spirits of wine with one drachm of essential oil of lemons. Put the preparation, into a small bottle, and keep it closely stoppered till wanted. The flavour of fresh lemon-peel, may be imparted to any dish by the addition, of three or four drops of this mixture. One to two table-spoonfuls of it wiU also convert a tumblerful of water into lemonade. Spirits. These alcoholic drinks differ from wines and beers in the fact that they are distilled from some form of fermented liquor. We may obtain the alcohol from beer or ?wine, or from any substance containing sugar which is fermented. As an illustration of the sources from which alcohol may be obtained, Loudon, in his " Encyclopaedia of Gardening," tells the story of an Irish gardener who was always drunk, yet no one ever knew where he got the means to indulge his propensity. It was not till he was watched with great perseverance that the source of his inebriety was discovered. It was found that he had ingeniously contrived to make a small still cut of two watering-pots attached by their spouts. Into one of these he introduced a mash of fermenting carrots, from which, by the aid of heai from an oil lamp, he was enabled to obtain a coarse imitation of his beloved potheen. Alcohol then, under the form of distilled spirits, may be obtained from any saccharine substance in a state of fermentation. Araka is manufactured in Tartarj- from fermented mares' milk, arika from cows' milk. Aqua ardiente is procured in Mexico from the sweet juice of the American sloe. In the East Indies, Arrack is made from fermenting rice or palm sago. Fermenting Machaleb cherries are the source of the German Kirschwasser. iMaraschino is made from macaiska cherries in Dalmatia. From rice wine a Chinese spirit, Show-choo, is distilled. In short, there hardly exists a race of men who have not acquired the art of distilling alcohol after its formation during the fermentation of sugar. In Britain, we are more particularly acquainted with brandy, gin, whisky, and rum. Brandy is produced by the distillation of ?wine alone, and not from any other fermented liquor; any spirits made from other liquors than wine are improperly termed brandy. Brandy is SPI ( 918 ) SPO prepared in all the wine countries of Europe, but particularly in France, where, however, the localities of the best French brandy are extremely limited. The grapes most proper for wines are not the best suited for brandy. The general mode of preparing brandy is extremely simple, being nothing more than a well-regulated distillation of wine in suitable vessels. At the commencement of the vintage, the manufacturers collect all the grapes that arc not fit for good wine, ferment their juices, and distil them for brandy ; they also use for this purpose all wines tb-at have failed iu the making although, if they have become at all acid, the brandy is tainted. The spirit next in importance is Gin. "This word is a corruption of Geneva, as that is of the French word r enierre, or juniper. Gin is also called Hollands. Geneva, however, is not gin, but a kind of liquor made from the berries of the juniper, which contain as much as thii-tyfour per cent, of sugar, and may be easily fermented. Gin was first made in Holland, and was brought into this country as Hollands gin. It is distilled from corn malt, and various substances are added to it to give it flavour. The most common substances of this kind are juniper berries, but a variety of substances are added to suit the taste of the customer, so that no two gins are alike. In this country every gin distiller uses his own ingredients, whilst the retailer of gin has also his particular recipes for rendering his gin profitable or palatable, or both. Sometimes injurious substances are added to gin to make it taste strong, as sulphuric acid and sulphate of zinc ; these, however, are adulterations. The substances used for flavouring gin are numerous enough. Thus we find enumerated bitter almonds, turpentine, "Creosote, 'lemon, cardamoms, caraways, cassia, garlic, Canada balsam, horseradish, cayenne pepper, and grains of paradise. None of these things are poisonous, and probably all of them assist in determining the action of the alcohol of the gin as a diuretic. Gin does not usually contain so much alcohol as brandy not more than eight ounces to the joint being found in the best gins. Sugar is added by many distillers, but others do not add this ingredient. Gin, as it is retailed, always contains sugar, and not frequently more than four ounces of alcohol to the pint. It is consequently a weaker spirit generally than brandy, and so far is perhaps less injurious when taken raw. The practice, however, of taking any kind of raw spirits is a very hazardous proceeding, and cannot be habitually indulged in without danger." Dr. Lankester. Whisky is a spu-it produced by distillation from grain, roots, and other materials. The best is obtained from barley after it has been malted, though that which goes under the name of raw grain whisky, made from wheat, oats, rye, Indian corn, rice, &c., after being Icept for two or three years, is almost as good. Whisky is also manufactured from potatoes, beetroot, beans, molasses, sugar, &c.,malt being sometimes added to a small extent. Tliis spirit used to be made almost solely in Scotland, Ireland, and the United States; but distilleries now, however, are numerous in England, France Germany, Holland, and Sweden. The foreign spirit is, as a rule, coarse in quality, and only suited for fortiiying wines. Whisky has frequently a slight smoky flavour, su jposed to be owing to the way in which it is prepared. i The whisky ordinarily sold in England is more j free from flavouiing ingredients than any other j form of distilled spirit. "Kum," says Dr. Lankester, in his valuable I work " On Food," " is less generally consumed i in England than the other spirit ; but from the { fact of its being supplied by the Government to our soldiers and sailors, largo quantities are entered for consumption in Great Britain. It is principally made in the West Indies, and our supphes are almost wholly dra-wn from Jamaica, where it is manufactured from the fermented scum of the sugar boilers and molasses. A flavour is often given to it by the addition of slices of pine-apple. It is usually sold much above proof, so that a pint of rum will contain fifteen ounces of alcohol. It has a peculiar odour, which is due to butyric ether. Like brandy, it improves by keeping, and probably develops the same class of bouquets as wine. The action of the alcohol of rum is of course the same as that of other fermented liquors ; but Dr. Edward Smith has pointed out a curious fact in its action on the system, and that is, that it increases the quantity of carbonic acid tlu'own out from the lungs. This may be due to the butyric ether. Whether this suggestion be correct or not, it is a curious fact, resulting from Dr. Smith's experiments, that whilst other alcoholic drinks decrease the expiration of carbosdc acid, rum should increase it." Spit, Cradle {see Cradle Spit). Sponge Biscuits. Break six fresh eggs, and put the yolks and whites into separate bowls. Take out the specks, beat the yolks thoroughly, and add gi-adually, beating the mixture all the time, si.x ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of orangeflower water, the whites of the eggs whisked to a fiiTu froth, and, lastly, five ounces of flour. Beat the cake for half an hour. Wipe out some small biscuit-tins, butter the inside, and sift powdered sugar over them. Three-parts fill them with the batter, and sprinkle sugar over them before putting them into the oven, which must be very brisk. When done enough turn them out of the tins, and lay them on a sieve. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sponge Cake (a German recipe). Take half a pound of sifted sugar and the yolks of ten eggs ; stir these ingredients for a quarter of an hour. Add six ounces of butter beaten to a cream, half a pound of fine flour, and the grated peel of a lemon and its juice. When these are ! thoroughly stirred in, add the whites of the ten eggs whipped to a snow. Stir all well together. Then take one or two moulds and butter them. Fill the moulds three-parts full, strew thin slices of almonds and some coarsely-powdered sugar on the top, and bake the cakes in a moderate oven. Sponge Cake (another way). Boil three quarters of a pound of the finest loaf sugar pounded in a quarter of a pint of water SPO ( 919 ) SPO containiHg a large spoonful of orange-flower ?water. Have ready the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of five beaten separately and then mixed, whisk them well, and as you do so pour into them the hot syrup. Continue whisking the mLxture for an hour longer, then strew in half a jjound of well-dried flour. This flour must bo stirred in, not beaten in with the whisk. Add a little finely-shred lemon-peel, and put the batter into the bjikingpan, which must not be buttered, but only covered with clean writing-paper. This cake may be made without t\w orange-flower water. Sponge Cake, Almond, Superior. Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, throw them into cold water as they arc done, diy them well, and pound smoothlj-, sprinlding the whole of three eggs upon them during the process. Work thoroughly with them a spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pound of powdered sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of fifteen eggs. Take the remaining whites of the eggs (making altogether fifteen, inclusive of these which were mixed with the almond-paste), whisk these to a firm froth, and stir them into the cake. Dredge into it a quarter of a pound of di-ied flour, and beat it briskly for a few minutes. Butter a mould, sift powdered sugar into it, pour the batter in till it is half full, and bake immediately. Lot the cake stand a few minutes, turn it out carefully, and put it on a sieve. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sponge Cake, Almond (another way). Sec Almond Sponge Cake. Sponge Cake Pudding. Take three or fom- stale sponge biscuits, or an equal quantity of stale sponge cake, cut it into slices, put these into a thickly-buttered dish, and pour upon them a pint and a half of boiling milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with a table-spoonful of brandy and with lemon or almond flavouring. Cover the dish with a plate, and let the pudding soak for an honr. Beat it up with a fork, stir into it three or four well-beaten eggs, pom- some clarified fresh butter upon the top, sift powdered sugar on the surface, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. If liked, cream may bo used instead of milk. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sponge Cake, Vanilla {see Vanilla Sponge Cake). Sponge Cakes, Cocoa-nut {see Cocoanut Sponge Cakes). Sponge Cakes, Iced. Make some sponge batter in the usual way, and bake it in a moderate oven in a large flat cake an inch thick. When done enough take it out, let it get cold, and with a sharp knife cut it into fancy shapes of any size and form. Put these on a baking sheet, spread jam over them, and place on this a coating of icing a quarter of an inch thick. Put them in a screen or in a warm situation till the icing is firmly sot, and use them for dessert, &c. The icing may be prepared as follows : Break the wliites of two eggs into a bowl, stii- into them half a pound of finelypowdered and sifted sugar, and beat the mixture briskly with a wooden spoon. Add every now and then one or two di'ops of lemon -juice till it forms a thick white slimy liquid, when it will be ready for use. Sponge Cakes (safe general rule for making all sizes). Take any number of fresh eggs, with their weighfr in sugar, half their weight in flour, and any flavouring that may be chosen. Break the eggs, put the yolks and the whites into separate bowls, and take away the specks. Beat the yolks and the sugar together, add the flour, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put the batter into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake in a brisk oven. Sponge Cakes, Small. No. l. Take eight eggs, with their weight in powdered sugar, and the weight of five of them in dried and sifted flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and whatever flavouiring is approved for a quarter of an hour, add the whites whisked to a firm froth, and stir these in for three or four minutes. Dredge the flour in gradually, and when it is smoothly mixed, butter the tins, haK fill them with the batter, sift powdered sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven. Take them out of the tins before they ai'o cold, place them upside down on a sieve, and let them remain for an hour. Place them in a closely-covered tin canister to remain tiU wanted. The cakes must not be allowed to acquire much colour. No. 2. Break five eggs, and put the yolks and the whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks with half a pound of sugar- till the mixture is light and I smooth, add the whites whisked to a firm froth, I four ounces of dried and sifted flour, and the j grated rind and strained juice of one lemon. Put into tins, and bake as before. No. 3. Break I two eggs into a bowl. Beat them tUl light and ! frothy, add a tea-cupful of powdered sugar, i and, gradually, a tea-cupful of dried flour. Put i the batter into tins, and bake the cakes in a i brisk oven. Time to bake, from ten to fifteen I minutes. 1 Sponge Cakes (various recipes). No. 1. j Brealc seven eggs, and put the whites and the I yolks into separate bowls. Take out the specks, I and beat the yolks of the eggs, add half a j pound of powdered and sifted sugar, the grated I rind and strained juice of half a lemon, six oimces of dried flour, and lastl}' the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Beat the mixture for a quarter of an hour. Line a tin with buttered or oiled paper, pour in the batter, and bake the cake in a modci-ate oven. Time to to bake, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, Is. 2d. for a cake this size. No. 2. Bruise half a pound of vanilla, tie it in muslin, and simmer it gently with a pound of loaf sugar till the syrup is clear and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it through a jelly-bag, and stir it till cool. Beat the whites of tliree eggs to a finn froth, stir them into the syrup, add the wellbeaten yolks of six eggs, and lastly six ounces of dried flour. When the batter is thoroughly mixed, pour it into a well-oiled mould, and bake SPO ( 920 ) SPR the cakes immediately in a well-heated oven. If liked, the syrup can he flavoured with lemonrind instead of vanilla. Time to hake, ahout an hour. No. 3. Take three cgf and their weight in flour, and four eggs and their weight in sugar. Put the yolks of the seven eggs and the sugar into a saucepan, and boat them over a gentle fire till they are new-milk-warm. Pour them into a basin, and put with them a tablespoonful of brandy and any flavouring that may he preferred. Stir them well together, and dredge the flour in very gradually, beating the mixture all the time. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a solid froth, stir them into the batter, and beat it again for a quarter of an hour. Butter a mould, sprinkle powdered sugar ujxju it, pour in the cake, and put it immediately into a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sponge Cakes with Apple Snow. Cut four or five stale penny sponge cakes into thin slices ; lay these on a glass dish, and pour over them half a pint of good custard or cream flavoured with a little brandy. Bake half a dozen large apples in a well-heated oven till they break and are soft. Scrape the pulp away from the skin and cores, weigh it, and a quarter of an hour before it is wanted beat up with half a pound of it the strained juico of a lemon, as much powdered sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly the quantity needed will depend upon the quality of the apples and the wellwhisked whites of two eggs. Beat the applemixture with a whisk till it looks light and frothy, and has the appearance of snow, pile it on the custard, and serve immediately. Time, two houi-3 to soak the sponge cakes in the custard. Probable cost, Is. 6d. if the custai-d be made with milk. Sufiicient for a small supper dish. Sponge, Orange {see Orange Sponge). Sponge, Savoy. Break six eggs, and put the yolks and whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks lightly, and then add a pinch of salt, half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, and a little flavouring. Beat these ingredients together briskly with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour. Add a quarter of a pound of corn-flour, and, lastly, stir in lightly the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Pour the batter gently into a mould which has been buttered and covered with sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. Turn it out carefully, and put it on a sieve till cold. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, about Is. Sprats. This is a very common fish on many parts of the British coast, and elsewhere in tiiQ northern parts of the Atlantic. It is smaller than the herring, being only about six inches long when full-grown. It strongly resembles the herring, however, though it is easily distinguished "by the serrated beUy, and by the position of the fins, the ventral fins beginning inmacdiately beneath the first ray of the dorsal fin, and not beneath the middle of it, as in the herring and pilchard. Another easily-observed distinction is the want of axillary hairs to the ventral fins, which both the hei-ring and pilchard have. The dentition is also difiierent. Notwithstanding all this, an old opinion has often been put forward, and urged with some pertinacity on public attention, that the sprat is the young of the hemng, which, therefore, it is injurious to a more important fishery to capture." The Firth of Forth produces sprats called "garvies" in Scotland so abundantly that they are sold in Edinburgh and Glasgow by measure, and cheaper than any other kind of fish. Sprats are wholesome, and of a good flavour. They may bo smoked, dried, potted, or fried, but they are Ijest when broiled, as they are of a very oily nature. They are in season during the winter. They should be chosen iis fresh as possible. This may be known by the brightness of their eyes and their silvery look. Though manj- persons eat them with salt alone, it will be found that their flavour is improved by the addition of a squeeze of lemon-juice and a pinch of cayenne. Sprats, Baked. Clean the sprats, cut off the heads, draw them at the gills, and dry them with a soft cloth. Put them into a dish, and cover with equal quantities of vinegar and water. Add a little seasoning in the proportion of a bay-leaf, a small onion, two or three allspice, a little salt, and a quai-ter of an ounce of whole pepper with each pint of the liquor. Cover the dish closely, and bake the sprats till done enough in a gentle oven. When they are cold, take off the cover, pour cold vinegar over them, and tie them up. They will keep for a week or two. Time to bake, half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Id. per pound. Sprats, Broiled. Clean the sprats, diy them well, and draw them at the gills. Dip them lightly in flour, fasten them in rows on small skewers run through the heads, and broil them on a closely-barred gridiron over a slow fire. When they are done upon one side, turn them on the other. Serve them on a very hot dish. They are generally served dry, but if liked a little lemon- juice may be squeezed over them at the last moment. Time to broil the sprats, four or five minutes. Probable cost, Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufiicient, one pound for three persons. Sprats, Dried. Dried sprats are sometimes eaten plain, but they are very dry and salt. If liked, they may he slightly broiled, but perhaps the best way of serving them is to put them in a basin, pour boiling water upon them ; then in a few minutes skin them, and serve them very hot. Sprats, Fried. Clean the sprats, dry them well, draw them at the gills, dred them with flour, and run a small skewer through the heads of about a dozen of them. I"ry them on the skewer in plenty of hot fat, and when they are nieely browned lift them on a hot dish covered with blotting-paper, and put them before the fire till the fat has drained from them. Fold a hot plate in a warm naj in ; lay this on a hot dish, draw the skewer from the SPR (921) SPR sprats, place them upon it, and garnish the fish with parsley and lemon. iServe as hot as possible. Sometimes the sprats are dipped in egg and bread-crumbs before being fried. Time to fry, two to three minutes. Sufiicient for one or t\+ o persons. Sprats, Fried. It has been said that if sprats were as scarce as smelts they would be as much esteemed. "Wasli them clesin, dry in a cloth, powder with flour or tine bread or biscuit-crumbs ; then fry in boiling grease, drain on a sieve before the tire, and serve very hot. Sprats, Pickled. Take a quarter of a peck of sprats as fresh as they can bo obtained. Clean them, cut off the heads, and in doing so draw them and put them into strong brine for an hour. Drain and dry them, and put them in layers into a pickling jar. Between each layer sprinkle salt and saltpetre, and let this be also sprinkled under the first layer and over the last. When the jar is full, press the fish down lightly, and cover the jar closely. The fish may be used in three or four months. The salt may be mixed in the following proportions : ? Half a pound of salt, half a pound of baysalt, a table-spoonful of white sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, and a pinch of cochineal. Dry the salt, crush and pound it thoroughly, and mix it with the other ingredients, and it will be ready for use. When wanted, the pickled sprats may be fried in butter, and served on buttered toasts, or they may be freed from skin and bone, pounded to paste, and covered with clarified butter. Sprats, Pickled (another way). Take a number of small sprats, cut off the heads, and wash the bodies well. Strew a quantity of salt over them, and let them lie in a pan all night. Take them out next day, and wipe thom well. Then put in a stone jar, or in an iron saucej an, a quantitj' of vinegar in proportion to the quantity of sprats. If the \'inegar is in a stone jar, put it into an oven to boil ; if in an iron vessel, place it over the fire. Put into the vinegar a bunch of parsley-root, some tarragon leaves, a sprig of thyme, one of marjoram, an onion stuck with cloves, and four or five shallots. Let the vinegar Isoil with these herbs, then strain it into another stone jar, and let it get cold. Meanwhile, have ready some widemouthed pickle or anchovy bottles. Put a layer of sprats at the bottom of each bottle, then a bay-leaf, thi.'i: a pinch of salt, a grain or two of allspice, and a few peppercorns ; then another layer of sprats ; and so on until the bottles are full. Then fill them with the vinegar when it is quite cold. Cork the bottles, put bladder over the corks, and sealing wax upon the bladder. In six months they will be fit for use. Smelta pickled in the same way are admirable. Sprats, Stewed. Clean and wipe the sprats, cut ofE the heads, draw out the gut, and place them in even layers in a moderate-sized saucepan. Between each layer put a pinch of salt, three peppercorns, and three allspice. Barely cover the fish with \'inegar, and let them simmer very gently without boiling until done enough. Time to simmer, one hour. Probable cost, Id. or 2d. per pound. Spring-Herbs Soup (excellent for purifying the blood). Shred finely a handful of young dandelion-leaves, and the same quantity of chervil and purslain, together with five or six sorrel-leaves and two cabbage lettuces. Wash them well, then drain them, and steam them in a closely-covered saucepan with a little j pepper and salt and an ounce of fresh butter. In ten minutes dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, and add a pint and a half of white I stock. Let the soup simmer gently for a I quarter of an hour, and keep stirring it during j all the time. Strain into it half a pint of boiling I milk, and add a tea-spoonful of powdered white I sugar. Put the yolks of two eggs into the 1 soup-tureen. Beat them with a spooiful of I the soup, Avhich, though thoroughly hot, must not be quite boihng ; add the rest of the soup gradually, and serve immediately. If preferred, cream may be used instead of milk. Time, about an hour, exclusive of the time consumed in preparing the stock. Suflicient for four or five persons. Spring Salad. Take young and freshlycut spring vegetables, such as lettuces, youngradishes, mustard and cress, and a few spring onions, if liked. If they are clean and free from insects, look them carefully over, and wipe them with a cloth, or if necessary plunge them into cold water for a moment, but on no account let them remain in it longer than is necessary to cleanse them. If they have been washed, dry them perfectly. The best way of doing this is to let them drain for a little time, then put a small quantity at a time into a dry napkin ; shake this by the four corners till all the moisture is expelled. The goodness of a salad depends to a great extent upon the vegetables being perfectl} dry. Tear them into small pieces with the hands; arrange them in the salad-bowl, so that the light and dark greens shall contrast prettUy. Put the radishes and onions round, and garnish the dish with parsley or nasturtium leaves, beetroot, hardboiled egg, &c. Send any good salad-sauce {se? Salad, Slayonnaise Sauce for) to table in a boat, and stir it briskly into the salad at the moment of serving. If it should be preferred, j the salad-sauce may be dispensed with, and the i salad prepared as follows : For a moderatesized salad-bowl of salad, mix in the s;ilad-spoon a spoonful of mustard, a spoonful of salt, and half a spoonful of pepper, and stir into these a table-spoonful of vinegar, and if liked a few drops of tarragon vinegar may bo added. Work these lightly but thoroughly into the salad, then put in four table -spoonfuls of best lucca oil, and stir the salad again for a fewminutes. Serve immediately. Spring Salad (another way). The following is an old-English spring salad of 1682 : " There is a sort of salad commonly gathered in the spring, consisting of divers young buds and sprouts both of trees and herbs, the which being gathered discreetly with nothing but what is very young and tender, and so that no one thing exceed the other, but there may be a fine agreement in their relishing, so it will bo very acceptable to many : Violets, small sprouts of bumet, young leaves of primroses and flowers, SPR ( 922 ) SPR mints, sorrel, buds of gooseberries, roses, barberries, flowers of burage, bugloss, cowpagles, and archangel." Spring Soup. Take a mixture of any or all kinds of early vegetables, such as young turnips and carrots, spring onions, mustard and cress, cauliflowers, lettuce, green peas, asparagus-tops, &c. A very small bunch of parsley and a little chervil, and three or four leaves of sorrel finely shred may be added if liked. Half a pound of mixed vegetables wiU be sufiicient for a quart of stock. With small vegetable-scoops cut the vegetables into fancy shapes of about the same size, or into thin shreds about an inch long. Throw these into boiling water, and let them remain for a minute or two. Drain them, and put them into another saucepan with as much boiling clear stock nicely flavoured {sec Stock) as is required. Let the soup boil gently till the vegetables are done enough. Taste in order to ascei-tain whether further seasoning is required, and serve very hot. In boiling the vegetables, it should be remembered that some wiU need to boil longer than others, and therefore they must not all be put in together. Time, altogether, about an hour and a half. Sufiicient, a quart of soup for five or six persons. Probable cost, varying with the ingredients. Spring Soup, Early. Take a knuckle of veal chopped in pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a quart of whole white peas, two or three turnips, a leek, and a little celery. Cut these into small pieces, and put to them four quarts of soft water. Boil till the meat has parted with all its juices and the peas have become soft. Then take out the meat and vegetables, and pulp the peas through a sieve. Season -vdth. pepper and salt to taste. Take a bunch of asparagus cut small to resemble green-peas, the hearts of two or three cabbage-lettuces, and some green mint chopped fine. Stew these in the soup till the vegetables become tender, taking care to keep them of a good colour and not to permit them to reinain too long upon the fire. Should the soup prove too thick, put to it some good broth, and if too thin, add a little flour and water. Should it not appear sufficiently green, pound a handful of spinach, and put the juice, when properly strained, into the soup, but it must not be boiled, for that would destroy the green colour of the spinach. Observe that when asparagus is meant to resemble green peas, care must be taken not to subject it to too much heat, it being a vegetable that soon becomes soft and loses its colour. A considerable degree of attention is required on the part of the cook, in regard to the management of the asparagus. Spring Soup (M. Ude's recipe). Take carrots, turnips, heads of celerj% and small onions cut into the shape of olives; blanch them in winter, but in summer fry them with a little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth with a little sugar. Put the soup in the corner of the stove to skim away all the butter. Have ready the green tops of asparagus, and French beans cut into lozenges which have been boiled separately in -water very green ; put them into the soup when you send it up. with slices of crust of bread cut the size of a penny and soaked separately in a little broth ; if you have any peas, you may put in some likewise to boil with the soup. Spring Soup of Early Cabbages. Take the hearts of two white spring cabbages well washed, place them for a few minutes in boiling water; take out the cabbages, put them into cold water, drain them, cut them in quarters and remove the stalks, tie each quarter j with a piece of thread, put them in some savoury stock, sunmcr till done enough, lay them in a tureen, and pour the soup over them. ! Spring Soup of Hop-tops. Early in spring gather some hop-tops; tie them up in small bimdles, let them soak in fresh water, and boil them in some good stock slightly thickened with lentils or peas and flavoured with onions, herbs, pepper, and salt. Simmer the vegetables till tender ; then place some sippets in a tureen, lay the i)undles of hop-tops upon them, and pour the potage over all. Spring Soup, Thick. Soak half a pint of green spHt peas, then boil them till tender in as much stock made from bones as will cover them, and with them two young carrots and two turnips, five or six spring onions, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a small leek, and a few outer sticks of celery, if these can be had. When the peas and vegetables are quite tender, rub them through a sieve. Add additional stock to make the puree as thick as custard ; and if it is not a good colom-, add spinach -juice to make it green {see Spinach Greening). Cut a small bunch of asparagustops into the shape of peas. Boil these separately in a little water with the heart of a finely-shred young cabbage, and three or four leaves of mint. Be careful to keep these vegetables a good colour. A few minutes before the soup is to be served throw them into it. If they can be procured, freshly -picked peas can be used instead of the di-ied split peas. Time to boil the soup, one and a half to two hours. Sufficient for five or six persons. BETI3SELS SPROUTS. Sprouts, Brussels {see Brussels Sprouts). SPtl ( 923 ) STE Spruce Beer. Dissolve sixteen pounds of treacle in eight gallons of water. Strain the liquor into a cask, and add eight gallons of cold water and six table-spoonfuls of the essence of spruce. When the liquor is new-milk-warni, stir briskly into it half a pint of good fresh yeast. Leave it in a warm place for a day or two until fermentation ceases, then bung it up closely. The following day it may be bottled, and can be used in a week. Sometimes the beer is flavoured by boiling for this quantity a tea-cupful of bruised ginger, a tea-spoonful of allspice, and three ounces of hops in a small quantity of the liquor, and adding this to the rest. When the outer sprigs of the spruce fir can be obtained, they may be boiled for a few minutes in a little of the liquor, and this decoction may be used instead of the essence. A pound of the sprigs will be equivalent to a pound and a half of the essence. Spruce Beer (anether way). This is made by adding the essence of spruce (which see) to water in which sugar or treacle has been dissolved in the pi-oportion of about four ounces of essence of spruce to ten pounds of sugar, or three quarts of treacle, and ten or eleven gallons of water, and with about half a pint of yeast. For flavouring, various spices are added. " A similar beverage," says a writer in " Chambers' Encyclopasdia," " is made largely in the north of Europe from the buds of the Norway spruce, and is known as Black Beer, that of Danzig being the most famous. The antiscorbutic beer of the Russian army pharmacopcBia is made by mixing spruce tops and fresh horseradishroot with cormnon beer ; ginger and Calamus aromatlms being added for flavouring, and, after fermentation, a little cream of tartar, tincture of mustard, and proof spirit. Spruce Beer Powders. Take two tumblers, and pour into each as much cold water as will fill them about a third. Stir into one glass eight grains of the essence of spruce, one grain of essence of lemon, one scruple of bicarbonate of soda, and one drachm of loaf sugar. In the other glass dissolve half a drachm of tartaric acid. Pour the contents of the one glass into the other, and drink the liquor during efliervescence. If these powders are prepared beforehand, the mixture should be packed in papers of one colour and the tartaric acid in papers of a different one. Spruce, Essence of. Essence of spruce is obtained by boiling the green tops of the black spruce in water, and then concentrating the decoction by another boiling without the spruce tops. The young shoots of this fir, like most others of its family, are coated with a resinous exudation, which is dissolved in the water. Squab Pie. This is a favourite popular dish in the west of England. It is generally made of mutton, though in the midland counties beef and fat bacon are sometimes used. Take a deep dish, and fill it with layers of mutton chops, applets cut as for other pies, and finely- shi-ed onions. Season the layers with pepper and salt, and sweeten the apples with sugar. Cover the pie with a thick crust, and bake in a well -heated oven. Time' to bake, two to three hours, according to size. Squab Pie (another way). Sve Devonshire Squab Pie. Squeak, Bubble and {sec Bubble and Squeak). StaffordsMre Syllabub. Put a pint of cider into a bowl with a glassful of brandy, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a grated nutmeg. Fill the bowl with frothed new milk, or with milk heated tiU it is new-milk-warm. Pour this into the syllabub from a teapot held high above it. Stale Bread. Stale bread will taste comparatively fresh and new if it be put into a cool oven till it is heated gently through. It will take about an hour. Stale Cake. If a sweet cake becomes stale, it may be freshened by the following process : Put it into a box with a closely-fitting Kd, place this before the fire, but not so near as to scorch the wood of the box, and turn it round occasionally. If the cake is large, cut it into thin slices before heating it. It will be ready for use in about an hour. Star-Gazy Pie (a favourite Cornish dish). This pie is thus named because the heads of the fish are usually placed mouth uppermost in the centre of the Lid of the crust, as pigeon's legs are in a pigeon pie, and therefore the fish are supposed to be gazing at the sky or the stars. Take as many fresh herrings or mackerel as will fill a modei-ate-sized dish. Scale, empty, and open them, and remove the bones. Lay them flat on the table, season the inside of each with salt, cayenne, and chopped parsley, and roll it up neatly. Butter the piedish, and sprinkle ujjon it a thick layer of finely-grated bread-crumbs, lay in some of the fish, and fill the dish with alternate layers of fish and bread-crumbs. Cover the contents of the pie with a few slices of fat bacon or the fat of a ready-dressed ham, and pour over all six eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, or, if preferred, half a quarter of a pint of cream. Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. Arrange the heads of the fish in the centre of the pastry ; when the pie is baked put a piece of parsley into the mouth of each fish, and serve. Time, one hour to an hour and half. Steaming. This is a process of cookery which is particularly adapted to very delicate preparations. It is sometimes carried on upon a large scale, and then an apparatus for the special purpose is provided. In ordinary kitchens, and for e very-day dishes, a kitchen steamer will be all that is required. The article of food which is to be steamed should be prepared as for boiling. It should then be placed in a steamer, which has a closely-fitting lid, over a saucepan full of boiling water, and this water should be kept boiling, and should be replenished as it boils away. When any delicate preparation is to be steamed, the cook should on no account boil anything strong and highly flavoured in the vessel under it. For STE (924) STO instance, liquor containing vegetables must not be boiled under a pudding, or the flavour of the latter will be entirely spoilt. If a proper steamer should not be at hand, a substitute may be improvised for steaming puddings, &c., as follows : Turn a plate upside down in a saucepan, and sunound it with about three inches of fast-boiling w.vter. Place the mould containing the puorling on the plate, cover the j saucepan closely, and keep the water gently \ boiling round "it, so that it will produce a j continuous supply oi steam. j Stern Meal { ee Meal, Stem). Stew, Bachelor's {see Beef, Bachelor's Stew). Stew, English {see English Stow) Stewing. This is a mode of cookery much favoured by French cooks. It is wholesome and excellent, as well as most economical, not only on account of the small quantity of fuel which is required to keep up the gentle simmer- ! ing, which alone is needed, but also because j food cooked in this way, even if coarse and hard in itself, may often be rendered tender, delicious, and palatable. Inexperienced cooks too often confound stewing -w-ith boiling, and thus they convert meat or poultry that would be excellent and delicate if properly dressed into something dry. hard, and indigestible. It should be understood that when we speak of stewing anything we simply mean simmering it gently in a saucepan which has a closely-iitting lid over a gentle fire. Stewing is best done over a stove. At times when the old-fashioned kitchen range is in u.se, however, the cook should place her stewpan on a trivet high above the fire, and watch it constantly, in order that she may move it nearer to the flame, or further from it, as occasion requires. The ebullition, though very' gentle, should be continuous. Sometimes meat to be stewed is put into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, and this is placed in a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Then the gravjextracted is really the juice of the meat. The greatest cleanliness should be observed in all vessels whicli are to be used for stewing. Enamelled saucepans are excellent, because they can bo so easily and thoroughly cleansed. Well-tinned copper ones are, however, the best for the purpose, though well-tinned iron ones will answer for ordinary cookery. The cook, however, should be particularly careful that the tinning of copper vessels is in good condition, for if it is at all worn away, the preparation stewed in it m.ay become poisonous, and most Lamentable consequences may ensue. Stewing, Mr. Buckmaster on. Stewing is a gradual simmering. It may be done in a saucepan over the tire, or in a stone jar which will stand the fire, with a lid fitting steam-tight. The common red jar is not to be recommended ; it does not stand the heat, and the glaze, which is a composition of lead, often gives way in the presence of salt. Stone jtirs are preferable to rnctal saucepans ; they can bo easily cleaned, and they retain the heat better. For stewing, select lean meat, free from blood. The quantity of water should be about a quart to a pound of meat ; but this liquor will be very rich, and it can easily be reduced if necessary with warm water. Add about a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water I think salt is best added towards the end of the cooking, ao the tendency is to harden the meat. Peas when boiled with salt pork will remain hard throughout the cooking. Bring the wat? r gradually to the boil, remove aU the scum, and let the contents simmer till the flavour of the meat is absorbed in the liquor. Kemove all the fat, which can be eaten, with bread, or used for puddings or frying. All and every kind of meat will do for a stew. They may be used together or separately, according to taste or convenience. The better the meat, the better the stew ; but by careful stewing the coarsest and roughest parts will become soft, tender, and easily digested, which would not be possible by any other method of cooking. All the gri.stly parts the feet, shanks, knuckles should be stewed. There is no other way of cooking these parts to advantage. They require time, and this is often the difliculty and" objection ; but what is there to prevent a woman, when the family are all sitting round the fire in the ev'ening, thinking about to-morrow's dinner ? The fire which warms the children will also cook their dinner. The great vice of most women, not only among the i oor, but among the middle classes, is that they never think of cooking till thej' feel hungrj-. Trimmings of all kinds of meat can sometimes be purchased cheaply. A woman who has but little to spend should watch her opportunities. Sheep's feet, the shank -bones of legs of mutton, and pieces of bono and giistlc, are often thrown away as useless. We used formerly to send ox tails to the tan-yard, and even now much goes there which could be turned into good food. Twopence or threepence spent in the purchase of bones although containing little meat, they contain 30 per cent, of gelatine, and may be made to yield excellent food; large bones should be broken into small pieces, and allowed to simmer till every piece of bone is white and drj'. I have said nothingabout flavouring or thickening, or adding vegetables. As a rule, all vegetables except potatoes may be cut into .slices and cooked in the Etew ; or, if preferred, they maj be cooked, separately, and added afterwards. Carrots, turnips, parsnips, swedes, cabbages, leeks, onions, celerj', beetroot, vegetable-marrow any or all of these may be used in a stew. I Stews, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat j for Fish, Soups, or Stews). } Stews, Onions for Garnishing {see ? Onions, Brown, for Garnishing Stews). j Stilton Cheese {see Cheese, Stilton). j Stock. Stock is the basis of all meat I sauces, soups, and purees. It is really the juice of meat extracted by long and gentle simmer ! ing, and in making it, it should bo remembered ! that the object to be aimed at is to draw the goodness out of the materials into the liquor. It may be prepared in various ways, richly and expensively, or economically, and recipes for all modes are given in this work. All general stock, or stock which is to be used for miscellaneous }iu.r'poscF.; r.iculd be simply STO ( 925 ) STO made, that is, all iiavouriiig- ingredients should be omitted entirely until its use is decided upon. The stock will then keep longer than it would do if vegetables, herbs, and spices were boiled in it, besides which the flavoui-ingcan be adapted to its spi?cial purpose. To ensure its keeping, stock should be boiled and skimmed every day in summer, and every other day in winter. The pan and the lid used in making it should be sci-upulously clean. A tinned iron pan is the best for the purpose. Those who need to practise economy will do well to procure a digester, which is a kind of stock-pot made with the object of retaliiiug the goodness of the materials, and preventing its escape in steam. "When ready, stock should be poured into an earthenware pan, and left uncovered until it is cold. It should on no account be allowed to cool in a metal pan. Before being used, everj- particle of fat which has settled on the surface should be removed, :i,nd the liquor should be poured off free from sodiment. A few years ago it was customary for cooks to make stock with fresh meat only, the rule being a pound of meat to a pint of stock. Altered prices have necessitated the adoption of more economical methods, and now excellent stock is constantly made with the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, with the addition or not of a Httle fresli meat, or a portion of Liebig's Extract of Meat. In a house where meat is regularly used, a good cook will never be without a little stock. Broken remnants of all kinds v ill find their way to the stock-pot, and will not be thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have been made to yield to the utmost whatever of flavour and of goodness they possessed. Vhen fresh meat is used it is better for being freshly killed. The liquor in which fresh meat has been boiled should always be used as stock. {See Pkixciples ok Cookeky, xxv.) Stock, Browning for. There are Tarious ways of browning stock. The best of all is to let it boil to a glaze when making it, and then to let it colour itself over the fire. Stock made from bones cannot be thus coloured, and it is therefore necessary to impart a brown look to it by other means. The addition of Liebig's Extract answers the purpose slightly, but not always sufiiciently. Burnt onions and colouring-balls may be bought, which are manufactured expressly for this end, but they often impart an impleasant flavour- to the soup. Brown thickening mjiy be used when it is wished that the stock should be tliickened as well as browned, though it must be remembered that after it is added the stcck must simmer by the side of the fire, that it may throw up the fat, which should be removed. Liquid browning, which can be bottled and used i s required, may be made as follows : Put a quarter of a pint of moist sugar into a stewpan, and let it remain over a gentle fire till it is melted. Keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is abnost black, then pour upon it a i)int of water, and let it remain until dissolved. Three or four drops will colour a pint of stock. Stock, Clarifying. When from some accident the stock is not as clear and bright as it should be, proceed as follows: For a quart of stock whisk the white of an egg with a quarter of a pint of water. Stir this briskly into the stock when it is just warm, let it boil, and carefully remove the scimi as it risesDraw it back, and keep it boiling gently for half an hour, continuing to skim it when possible. Let it stand for a quarter of an hour to settle, and strain it through a jelly-bag. If three or four ounces of lean meat are minced and pounded to pulp, and mixed with the whim's of egg before it is put in, the stock will bo eni'iched as well as cleared. Stock-flsh. This is the commercial term used to denote salted and dried cod and other fish of the same family, particularly hake, ling, and torsk. The fish is cured as soon as possible after being caught. It is first spHt up from head to tail, and thoroughly cleaned by plentiful washings with salt water ; a piece of the backbone is then cut awaj-, and after the supei-fluous water has been di-ained off, the fish are laid in long vats, covered with salt, and kept down by means of heavy weights. After a time they are taken out, washed and brushed, and laid out, exposed to the action of sun and air, on rocks or on a sandy beach. They are afterwards piled up into little heaps, and when they have acquired a fine whitish aj pearance, known as the bloom, they are considered ready for the market. The quantity of stock-fish cured on the southern coasts of Britain is inconsiderable, but it is otherwise in the north. The cod, ling, and hake fisheries of Scotland rank next in importance to its herring fishery. Stock for Aspic Jelly (economical). Put a pint of stock into a saucepan. Add two oimces of gelatine, a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, three cloves, three shallots, and a quarter of a blade of mace, and stir the liquor over the fire till the gelatine is dissolved. Pour it out, and let it become almost cold. Whisk the white of an egg with a quarter of a pint of water. Add the crushed shell of the egg, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Put the stock again in the saucepan, and stir the mixtm-e briskly into it over the fire till it boils. Let it boil for ten minutes and then settle for ten minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag into a large shallow dish, and when cold and stiff the jelly will be fit for use. Time, altogether, about an ho'or. Stock for Jelly {sec Calf's Foot Stock for Jelly). Stock for Soup [cec- I;Iutton stock for Soup). Stock freed from Fat. Let the stock get cold, then carefully take from it the coating of fat which lies on the top. If it is still greasy, put it into a saucepan, simmer gently by the side of the fire, and carefully skim off the fat as it rises until no more appears. If after it is put into the tureen bubbles of fat appear on the surface, remove aa much as possible by skimming, and take off what remains by laying a piece of blotting-paper or, failing this, of common brown paper, lightly on the top, so that the grease may adhere to it. STO ( 926 ) STO Stock, Game. Take the remains of roast game oi' any kind, and break them up into j small pieces. Butter a saucepan, and line the j bottom of it with thin slices of lean ham. Place the pieces of game upon this, almost cover them with stock made from bonos or, failing this, with water, and boil the liquor quickly over a brisk fire till it is reduced to glaze. Draw it back a little, and let it colour ; then add as much additional stock as it will boar, [ together with carrots, turnips, onions, celerj% cloves, and salt, as required. Let it simmer gently until it is done enough, and strain it off for use. The remains of game will make excellent stock, and it would be very extravagant to use game for this piuT ose without first taking off the best of the meat. When, however, a bird is too old and tough to be di-essed in the ordinary way, it may be placed in the stockpot, but its flavoui- will be best brought out if it is partially roasted before being stewed. Stock, General. Take one pound of shin of beef, cut it into pieces the size of a walnut, and put these into a delicately clean stewpan with two-pennyworth of bones broken up small and five pints of cold spring water. If there are trimmings of meat or poultry in the house they may be thrown into the pot, as also a little bacon-rind which has been first scalded and scraped. Bring the contents of the pan slowly to the boil, carefully remove the scum as it rises, and throw in a spoonful of cold water now and then to assist it in doing so. An onion with a clove stuck into it, a turnip, a carrot, two leeks, a few outer sticks of celery, a salt-spoonful of whole pepper, and a little salt may be added if liked. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer very gently. Keep the saucepan closely covered, excepting when it is necessary to take off the lid for the purpose of skimming. Strain the soup into an earthenware pan, and remove the fat when it forms on the surface. Time to simmer the stock, four hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for two quarts of stock. Stock made from Bones. Take the bones of a leg of mutton or of a piece of beef weighing seven or eight jwunds before cooking, or if these are not at hand, take two pennyworth of fresh bones. Break them up into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold water. Bring the liqnor gently to the boil, and carefully remove the sci iV. as it rises. Draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for five or six hours. Pour it into an earthenware jar, and the next day remove the fat from the top, and pour it back free from sediment. Put with it a large carrot, a handful of fresh parsley, a large onion into which two or three cloves have been stuck, a few outer sticks of celerj', or about as much celery-seed as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a turnip, if young, a couple of leeks, if they can be obtained, a lump of sugar, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup again, and if necessary add cold water, a little at a time, to keep up the quantity to two quarts. Simmer all gently together an hour and a half longer ; strain the liquor oft' again, and. stir in with, it a good tea spoonful of extract of meat. If it is necessary to clarify the stock, do not put in the extract until the stock has been made clear. If expedition is desired, the vegetables and the bones may be boiled altogether. Time, five hours the first day, one hour and a half the next. Sufficient for two quarts of stock. Stock made from Cow-heel. Excellent stock for soup may be made by boiling a cow-heel and two pounds of shin of beef in water. The meat may be converted into mock potted head a relishing dish for breakfast or supper. Cleanse a cow-heel, and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of shin of beef, not cut up, and three quai-ts of water. Add a large carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with three cloves, six peppercorns, six allspice, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and a slice of lomonrind. Bring the liquor slowly te the boil, and simmer gently two hours. If the meat is to bo made into brawn, take it out at this point, and let the heel simmer alone until the stock is sufliciently strong. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, and when the stock is done enough, pour it into an earthenware pan, and use as required. To make the mock potted head, cut both the beef and the cow-heel into small pieces. Soak half a packet of gelatine in cold stock for twenty minutes ; dissolve it in a pint of boiling stock, add the pieces of meat, and pour the whole into an oiled mould to remain until cold. Potted head made in this way may be garnished according to taste. One or two hard-boiled eggs, some slices of beetroot, and a little chopped parsley, if placed tastefully in the jelly at the bottom of the mould, will greatly improve its appeaTance. Time, five or six hours to boil the cow-heel. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two quarts of stock and one shape of brawn. Stock, Meat. Meat from which stock has been made, if simmered gently till it is tender only, and not so long as to reduce it to rags, may be served as a stew, with part of the stock thickened for gravy. Or good potted meat may be made of it {see Beef, Potted). Stock-pot. The best stock-pots are those made of well-tinned iron or copper, as they are most easily cleaned, and in making stock cleanliness is of the utmost importance. Into the stock-pot should be thrown all the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, either dressed or undi-essed. In an economically-conducted household nothing will be thrown away until all the goodness has been extracted from it. Stock, Quickly made . Take an onion, peel it, spUt it in halves, and stick two cloves into it ; put it into a saucepan with a pint and a half of water, a bunch of fresh green parsleyleaves, a tea-spoonful of gelatine, and a little salt and cayenne. A stick or two of celery or a few celery-seeds, or a very small pinch of dried tarragon may be added, if thej' are at hand, as they will greatly assist the flavour of the stock. Boil the liquor tiU the gelatine is dissolved, strain it into a bowl, and press the onion and parsley so as to get as much of the goodness out of them as possible. If the gelatine was good, the stock will be bright and cleai-. Stii" STO (927) STO into it until dissolved a tea-spoonful of extract of meat, and it will be ready for use. It may be served as it is, as clear soup, or a little macaroni or vermicelli may be added to it, though they should be boiled separately, or the soup will not be clear; or a few vegetables cut as for Julienne soup may be put in {? ? ; Vegetables, Dried), or a few fresh kirragon-leaves may be finely shred and thrown in. Probable cost, plain, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Stock, Rich and Strong. Take two pounds of the shin of beef and two pounds of knuckle of veal ; cut the meat into small pieces, and break up the bones. Butter a saucepan, line it with slices of lean ham or bacon, lay the pieces of meat upon it ; add the bones and any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. An old hen or the carcase of a rabbit or roasted chicken will be valuable additions. Pour in a pint of water, cover the Siiucepan, and boil it quicldy, stirring it frequently till it is reduced to glaze. Let this brown gently or not, as required, pour in three quarts of cold water, and when this boils add a large onion stuck with two cloves, a few sticks of celery, a large carrot, a young turnip, half a blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, a few peppercorns, and a little salt. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, and add a spoonful of cold water occasionally to assist it in doing so ; simmer the stock gently for four hours ; strain it into an earthenware pan, and when it is quite cold, carefully remove the fat from the top. Time to simmer the stock, three to four hours. Stock, Second. "When fresh meat has been used for making stock, after the first liquor has been poured oif, the saucepan should be filled with stock made from bones, or water in which meat has been dressed, and boiled down again to make glaze or portable soup, which will be of great use, either to enrich soups or sauces, or to improve the appearance of various joints {sec Glaze). If liked, half the original quantity of vegetables and seasoning may be added to the liquor. To make it, boil the stock very gently for five or six hours. Strain it through a hair sieve into an earthenware pan. When it is cold, carefully remove the fat from the top, and pour it off gently, not to disturb the settlings, into a well-tinned saucepan. Keep the saucepan uncovered over a brisk fire, skim the liquor when necessary, and boil it quickly till it begins to thicken. Reduce the heat of the fire, and boil the stock gently till it looks like thin treacle. Be very careful that it does not bum, and when it has boiled until a little taken out in a spoon will when cold set into a stiff jelly, strain it into small jars, perfectly di-ied, to the thickness cf an inch and a half, and let it remain in a cool place till wanted. If properly made, it will keep six months. If, after a few days, it doas not appear sufiicdently hard, put the jar containing it into a large saucepan of boiling water, and keep this water boiling rapidly round it until the glaze has evaporated sufficiently. It must not be put into the saucepan again, as it will be in great danger of bimiing or of acquiring an unpleasant flavour. Time, two days to make the glaze. Stock, Superior Clear Brown, for Soups and Sauces, made from Fresh Meat. Take three pounds and a half of the shin of beef or knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of lean ham. Cut the meat into pieces the size of an egg, and break the bones into small pieces. Butter the bottom of the stewpan, lay in it the ham, then the veal, and add the bonas and any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. Pour in as much water as will cover the meat. Cover the pan, put it on a brisk fire, and boil its contents quickly, stii-ring occasionally with a wooden spoon till the bottom of the pan is ceverod with a thick white glaze. Throw some cinders on the fire to lower the temperature, and let the pan remain on it until the glaze becomes a bright brown colour without being at all burnt. Pour in four quarts of cold stock or water, biing the liquor to the point of boiling, then draw it to the side, and simmer gently, skimming with scrupulous care for two hours if veal is used, and for foui- hours if beef is used. Strain through a fine sieve into an earthenware pan, and when the stock is cold remove the grease. If flavouring is wanted, a turnip, a carrot, two onions, each with one clove stuck in it, half a leek, a few sticks of celery, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of th}Tne, may be stewed in the liquor. Add pepper and salt as required ; the quantity of salt needed will depend upon the quality of the ham. Probable cost, 3s. Stock, To Keep Good. In cold weather stock will keep for several days. In hot weather it should be boiled eveiy day. It should always be poured into an earthenware bowl, and when nearly cold, put into a cool larder. It should on no account be allowed to remain in the stewpan all night. Stock, White, for White Soups and Sauces. Take three pounds of the knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of lean ham. Cut the meat into small pieces, break up the bones, and add any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, with a little pepper and a small pinch of salt. The ciircase of a fowl or rabbit will "be a valuable addition. Put the meat into the stewpan, and pour upon it four quarts of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, draw it to the side, skim carefully, and let it simmer gently for three hours. Strain it irto . an earthenware pan till wanted. If liked, a c irrot, a turnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small piece of mace may be added. Stock with Pried Bread. Cut a slice of stale crumb of bread into dice; moisten these with stock, put a slice of dripping on them, and fry over a slow fire till they are brown and crisp. Lay them ia a dish, and place upon them one or two slices of the crumb of bread which have been soaked in stock and drained. Serve nicely-flavoured stock in a tureen with the bread thus prepared. This dish is specially suited for children and invalids. Stone Cream. Put a little apricot, plum, or cherry jam into a glass dish. Gi-ate ujx)n it the rind of a lemon, and add the strained juice. Pour over it as much liquid blancmange nearly STO ( 928 ) STR told as - vill cover it. Servo the cream when stift' Jind cold, and ornament the surface with a little pink sugar, knobs of red-currant jelly, or strips of preserved fruit, or blanched almonds. The blancmange may be made with isinglass, gelatine, or fine arrowroot. Stone-fruit, Wholesomeness of. Stone-fruit, generally speaking, is less digestible when eaten raw than the other descriptions of fruit ; to healthy persons, however, when ripe, and consumed in moderation, it is not injurious. Plums ha T acquired a character for causing disorder and diarrhoea, which they scarcely deserve. Undoubtedly with some persons they disagree, and indeed, with all, if they are eaten immoderately or in bad condition ; but that ' they, or fruits generally, are the cause of the regular autumnal or British cholera, is a fallacy which has been established in the popular mind in consequence of the season at which plums are ripe, the "plum-season" being coincident with that at which people in this country, who have been exposed to the effects of the summer's heat are most liable to that outbreak of accumulated bile which is known as bowel complaint, or English, or British, or summer cholera. Dr. Thompson. Store-rooms and Stores. A clean, tidy, well-arranged store-room is one sign of a good methodical housekeeper. Where stores are put away anyhow, and taken out at any time and in any quantity, we have good grounds for supposing that disorder and extravagance prevail. A store-room ought to be large, airy, cool, and dry. Such a room is not always to be had, but even if a closet has to be put up with, it may be kept clean. Shelves should be arranged round the walls, hooks fastened to the edges of the shelves. The driest and coolest part of the room should be kept for jams, jellies, and pickles. All the jars should he distinctly labelled at the front, so that they will not all need to be taken down every time a. i)articular jar is wanted. Biscuits or cakes should be kept in closely-covered tin boxes; lemons should be hung in nets. Soap should he bought in large quantities, and cut up in convenient-sized pieces, so that it may be dry before it is used. Coffee, when roasted, should be kept in small quantities ; if unroasted, it will improve with keeping. Stores should on no account be left in the papers in which they were sent from the grocer's, but should be put into tin canisters or earthenware jars closely covered, and each jar, like the jam, should be labelled. Stores should be given out regularly, either daily or weekly. In order to check their consumption, the housekeeper will do well to keep in the store-room a memorandum-book with a pencil fastened to it, and in this book she should enter the date on which all stores were brought in or taken out. B means of these memoranda she can compare "oi;e week's outgo with another, and immediately discover any extravagance. A hammer, a few nails, a little gum, a ball of string, a few sheets of ioolscap, and a pair of scissors, should always 1)8 kept in the store-room. Store Sauce (s e Kitchiner'a Store Sauce). Store Sauee or Cherokee [?ee Cherokee or Store ynuco). Store Sauces. Many varieties of excellent store sauces may be bought of the grocer and Italian warehouseman, and wiU prove of great value in colouring and flavouring soups, sauces, and stews. As, however, they are generally very strong, they should be added to any preparation with care. As they can be so easily procured, it is advisable to keep on hand a small quantity only of them, for they certainly deteriorate in quality with keeping. The bottles contiiining them should be tightly stoppered, and kept in a dry place. The ctore sauces most hkely to be needed are mushroom and walnut ketchup, essence of anchovies, chilli, cucumber, shallot, and tarragon vinegar, and Harvey or Worcester Sauce. Stout. Stout is only a stronger form of porter. It is extensively brewed in London, Dublin, and elsewhere. Good draught stout contains an ounce and a half of alcohol in the pint. Stranger's Cake, or Polly's Cake. Rub haK a pound of butter or sweet dripping into a pound of flour. Add a small salt-spoonful of salt, three heaped tea-spoonfuls of bakingpowder, a pound of gi-ound rice, half a pound of moist sugar, a pound of picked currants or sultanas, and two ounces of candied peel. A little spice may be added if approved. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Mix the cake with four well-whisked eggs and a cupful of milk. Bake immediately in a moderate oven. Time to bake, two hours and a half or more. ! Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for a cake this size. Strasburg Fowl Pie, Mock {see I Fowl Pie, Mock Strasburg). Strasburg Goose. The Strasburg goose I is an animal that has to submit, for the sake of j the luxuries of mankind, to a very peculiar I operation. It is tied down to a board, and put in front of a fire, which appears very ci'uel ; but it does not hinder the animal from getting fat. It is fed with barley-meal, and it thus takes in much more sUirch than is necessary to maintain its heat, and the consequence is, the starch is converted into fat and deposited in i greatest abundance in the liver. The goose is [ then killed, the liver is taken out, and these I distended livers are the precious morceaux con [ tained in the pate di foie gras (which see). I Strawberries. This delicious summer [ fruit is known both in Europe and America. i It belongs to teraperate and rather cold climates. I It may be eaten fresh, or made inta preserves. ! It derives its name from the practice of putting straw under the berries to keep them clean I whilst the}- ripen. Ripe strawberries may bo i kept for two or three days by putting them on I ice, or keeping them in a cool dark place. I Strawberries and Cream. Procure j the fruit when it is freshly gathered and just ripe. If it is not to be eaten immediately, keep it in a cool place till wanted ; but the fresher it is the better. Piclc the strawberries, and remove every imperfect and imsoimd berry. Do not wash them imless it is absolutely STE, (929) STE necessary. If, however, they are dusty or not ([uite fresh, they may be cleansed and freshened Ijy taking them in handfuls and passing them quickly through a basin of cold water. They should not be allowed to remain in it one instant. If the strawberries have been gathered in rainy weather, it is very desirable that this ( leansing process should be i erformed. Strawberries are very delicious served with thick cream (Devonshu-e cream is the best) and finelypowdered sugar. These accompaniments should be sent to table separately, as if the sugar is ]rat upon them, even for a short time, it will draw out their juice and change their colour. STRAWBERRIES. 1. Keen's Seedling. 2. British Queen. 3. Bi: Horjg. (Two-thirds the nstiiral size.) Strawberries, Bottled. Gather the strawberries in dry weather when they are ripe, but not over-ripe. Pick them without bruising them, and put them into perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles. Shake them down, and fill the bottles with clear syrup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar with half a pint of water. Cork the bottles tightly, and tie them down with string. Wrap straw round them to keep them from being broken, and put them into a large stewpan with cold water up to their necks. Let the water be made to boil, then draw the pan to the side, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Take the pan off the fire, and leave the bottles untouched till they are cold. Refit the corks, tie them down again, if necessary wax them over, and store for use. Time to simmer, ten minutes. Strawberries, Bottled, for Flavouring Purposes. Gather the fruit in dry weather, pick it from the bolls, discard any bruised or unsound berries, and weigh it with an equal weight of finely-powdered sugar. Fill perfectly diy wide-mouthed bottles with alternate layers of fruit and sugar, and shake them gently to mix them. Cork the bottles closely, and cover the corks with bladder which has been cleaned, dried, and moistened with spirit on the side which is to be next the cork. Store in a cool dry place. The strawberries should be perfectly fresh when they are thus preserved. 63 Strawberries, Compote of. Take a pint of freshly-gathered ripe strawberries. Pick them, and put them into a bowl. Pour over them a little clear syrup which has been made by boiling a quarter of a pint of water with five ounces of sugar for ten minutes. Cover the bowl containing them with a plate, and let them stand for an hour or more. Drain off the syrup ; boil it for a few minutes, skim it, and strain it over the strawberries piled in the centre of a compote-dish. The flavour of this dish will be greatly improved if a wine-glassful of redcurrant juice is added to the syrup. When it is at hand, a glass of maraschino may also be added with advantage. For a superlative dish, the syrup, after being flavoured with maraschino or kirschenwasser, may bo set in ice till it is almost frozen, and in this condition poured over the fruit. Time to soak the strawberries, one hour. Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberries, Indian. This plant is a native of the Himalaya mountains, and grows luxuriantly, and produces fruit in abundance in Britain, if only protected from severe frosts. The flowers of the Indian strawberry are yellow, not white, and the fruit is veiy beautiful, not hanging down as in the case of other strawberries, but growing with its apex upwards. It is not, however, of a very tempting quality. Strawberries, Preserved. The fruit must be gathered in very dry weather, when there has been no rain for at least two days. The stalks must be left on. Place the strawberries upon a china dish without touching each other. Strew oyer them double their weight of sifted loaf sugar. Have ready also some very ripe strawberries with their stems picked off Bruise these in a basin into a mash, and mix with them their weight in sifted sugar. Stand the basin well covered in a stewpan of boiling water. Place it over a slow fire, and there let it remain until the juice of the strawberries is drawn out and begins to thicken. Strain this juice through a muslin rag into a pan, pressing the pulp well ; boil and skim it, and let it cool. When cold, put the whole strawberries into this syrup, together with all the sugar strewed over them. Place them on a stove till they become a little warm ; take them off, and let them cool, then heat them again. Continue this several times until they are clear, warming them gradually, but taking care that they never approach a boil. If ever you perceive a tendency in any of them to break, remove them instantly from the fire, and do not replace them on it imtil they have become quite cold. When they are sufliciently clear, put them with great care into pots. There is another mode of preserving them whole, by placing them, when fresh-gathered, into glass pickle-bottles, strewing their weight of sifted sugar over as they are put in, and filling up the bottles with either boiling-hot malaga wine or boiling sweet malmsey. This is the most expensive, though the least troublesome ; but the other is preferable. Strawberries Preserved in Wine. ? Take the fruit when perfectly ripe and fresh; pick it, and pat it immediately into dry wide STR ( 930 ) STEl mouthed bottles. Sprinkle amongst it four ounces of powdered sugar with each pound of fruit, and let the bottles be fiUed to the neck. Poirr in good sheriy or madeira to cover the fruit. Cork the bottles securely, wax them down, and store in a cool dry place. Strawberries, Preserved Whole. Take perfectly sound ripe strawberries which have been gathered in dry weather ; pick and weigh them. Put them in layers on a large dish, and sprinkle finely-powdered sugar between the layer.s~a pound of sugar will be required for every pound of fruit. Let them stand all night. Next day put the whole gently into a clean preserving-pan. Let it boil ; shake the pan to keep the strawberries from burning, and pass a spoon round the edges ; but be careful not to crush the fruit. Remove the scum as it rises, and boil the fruit gentlj* for a quarter of an hour. Drain the juice from the berries, and boil it separately for half an horn-. If liked, a pint of red-currant juice boiled to syrup with half a pound of sugar may be added for each pound of strawberries, and this will greatly improve the flavour of the preparation. Pour the boiling juice upon the fruit, put both again into the pan, and boil the mixture for a quarter of an hour, or till the juice will set when a little is put upon a plate. Put the preserved fruit into jars, cover in the usual way, and store in a cool place. Strawberries preserved thus are verj' good served in glasses, mixed with cream. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberries, Preserved Whole (another way). Piclc and weigh the berries, and put them in layers on a dish with finelypowdered sugar interspersed amongst them, using a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Leave them until the next day, put them gently into a preserving-pan, and when the juice is just about to boil turn all into a colander, and drain off the juice. Let it boil, then pour it upon the fruit, and leave it until the next day. Put it again on the fire, let it reach the point of boiling once more, and again pour it out. Drain it, let it get cold, then pour it on the fruit, and rei)eat this process for four or five days. Put the fruit into jars, cover these, and store for tise. A pint of red-currant juice for si.x pounds of fruit, boiled to syrup with half a pound of sugar, and added to the juice during the last boiling, will greatly improve the flavour of this preparation. Time, five days. Strawberries, Wholesomeness of. The stra -berry must be ranked amongst the most wholesome productions of the vegetable kingdom. It is recorded of Fontenelle that he ascribed his longe "ity to them, in consequence of their having regularly cooled a fever which he had everj- spring ; and that he used to say, " If I can but reach the season of strawberries." Bcierhaave regarded their continual use as one of the principal remedies in cases of obstruction and viscidity, and in putrid disorders. Hoffman furnishes instances of obstinate disorders cured by them, even consumption, and Linnreus says that by eating plentifully of them he kept himself free from gout. Strawberry Acid. Dissolve five ounces of tartaric acid in two quarts of cold .spring water, and pour this into an earthenware pan over twelve pounds of picked ripe strawberries. Leave them until the next day, then strain off the liquor without bruising the fruit. Put a pound and a half of powdered and sifted loaf sugar with each pint of clear liquor, stir it until dissolved, and bottle for use. Raspberry acid may be made in the same way. Time, two days. Strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberry, Alpine. Unlike other kinds of strawberries, the Alpine strawberry has a tall stem and erect manner of growth. The fruit, which is either red or white, is not very large, but is produced in great abundance, and is to be had long after other kinds are out of season. Strawberry and Custard Pudding. Take four ounces of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Place four table- spoonfuls of strawberry jam in a buttered pie-dish, cover this with the bread-crumbs, and add some good nicely-flavoured custard made with a pint of milk, two eggs, and a little sugar. Stir the custard over the fire tiU it begins to thicken, pour it gradually upon the bread-crumbs, and bake the pudding in a moderately -heated oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Strawberry Blancmange. Take a quart of clear stift' blancmange made with isinglass or gelatine. Sweeten this, and stir into it the juice which has been drawn from a quart of fresh strawberries. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, put the blancmange into a damp mould, and leave it in a cool place till set. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve. To draw the juice from the strawberries, piclr them, spread them on a large flat dish, and sprinkle over them about six table-spoonfuls of powderC'l sugar. Let them stand for six or eight hours, and pour away for use the syrup which has flowed from them. Strawberry Cardinal. Hull a quart of ripe, finely-flavoured strawberries, and discard all berries that are unsound or bruised. Sprinkle upon them a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, and pour over them half a bottle of Rhino wine. Cover closely, and let them stand in a cool place for half an hoiw. Just before they are to be served, pour over them the remainder of the wine, with another bottle, either of moselle or of the same wine. Add a bottle of seltzer, and serve. If liked, the liquor may be strained and bottled for use. Strawberry Cheesecakes. Take a quarter of a pint of ripe, finely-flavoured strawberries, measured after the stalks have been picked from them. Bruise them thoroughly with a wooden spoon in a basin, and mix vith them a heaped table-spoonful of powdered sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Line some pattypans with good pastry, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a weU-heated oven. If fresh fruit cannot be had, strawberry jelly may be used instead, and then no sugar wiU be required. Time to bake, ten minutes. STB ( S)31 ) STR Strawberry Cream. Pick the stalks from a pint of strawberries, sprinkle a tea-cupful of powdered sugar over them, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, and rub them through a fine hair sieve till all the juice has been taken from them. Dissolve an ounce and a half of isinglass or gelatine in three-quarters of a pint of new milk, add a pint of thick cream and the strawberrj'- juice, and simmer all gently together over the iire for five minutes. Pour the cream into a damp mould or into glasses, and set it in a cool place till stiff. A few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to improve the colour. If liked, the juice may bo drawm from the fruit over the tire or in the oven. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, half a pint of strawberry- jam dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water and strained may be used instead. Time, five minutes to simmer the cream. Strawberry Cream Ice (a la Muscovite). Pick the strawberries, bruise them with a wooden spoon, and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Take one pint of the juice thus obtained, and stir into it until dissolved five ounces of powdered sugar. Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in very little water, and add this to the juice. Let the basin containing the juice stand upon rough ice, and stir its contents without stopping until they begin to set. Whip a pint of cream, and mix it lightly with the iced strawberry-juice. Put the whole into an hermetically-closing ice-mould. Put a little butter round the opening to keep out the water, and place it in the ice-pail with pounded ice and bay-salt round it at least three inches thick. Let it remain until it is thoroughly frozen. When it is to be served, plunge the mould for one instant into a basin of hot water, turn it upside down upon a glass dish, when the ice will in all probability come out in a shape. If however it will not come out, dip it quickly into hot water. Time to freeze about two hours. Strawberry Drops. Weigh two ounces of strawberry puree that is the thick juice of strawberries that have been nibbed through a fine hair sieve with eight ounces of coarselysifted white sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire with a wooden spoon till it has become liquid and is on the point of simmering. Take it oif the fire, stir it briskly for a few minutes, then let the drops fall slowly out of the pan upon a baking-sheet. When cold, ? remove them with the point of a sharp knife, and put them in a warm place to dry. Strawberry Fool. Take a quart of picked strawberries, ripe and finely-flavoured ; put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of white sugar ; cover them closely, and let them stew gently for ten minutes, stirring the fruit now and again to keep it from burning, flub it through a fine hair-sieve with a ?wooden spoon, and when it is cold stir into it as much new milk as will make it of the consistency of custard. Serve quite cold. If cream is not to be had, and a rich dish is required, the yolks of two eggs may be mixed with the milk, and the custard may be stirred over the fire till it is on the point of boiling. Time, ten minutes to boil the fruit. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, Is., made with milk only. Strawberry Glaces. Take a sponge cake two or three days old, and cut it into squares, rounds, and diamonds. Boil a pound of sugar with a pint of water to a clear syrup. Boil and skim this, and keep trying whether it is done enough by dropping a small portion of it at a time into a basin of cold water placed by the side of the stove for the purpose. If the sugar snaps when dropped into the water, and then remains hard, it is ready for the strawberryjuice, which should be added in such a quantity as to bring the syrup to 38''. Take the syrup from the tire, let it cool, and beat it with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth. Stick the pieces of sponge biscuit one by one en the point of a skewer, dip them into the icing, and place them on a sieve to drain. When all are done, put them in a cool oven for a minute or two to dry. Let them cool, and they will be ready for use. Strawberry Hydropatkie Pudding. -Although instructions are gi\-en for making this pudding with strawberries only, any other fruit, or any mixture of fruits, may be made into a pudding in the same way. Take a basin the size that the pudding should be. Put at the bottom a round piece of stale crumb of bread about the size of a five-shilling piece. Place round this, in an upright position, and about an inch apart from one another, fingers of bread, three or four inches long, according to the depth of the basin. Pick some strawberries, and boil them with a spoonful or two of water and as much sugar as will be required to sweeten them pleasantly until they are reduced to pulp. Put the hot fruit gently into the basin with a spoon, so as to disturb the bread as little as possible; cover the surface of the fruit with little odds and ends of bread cut up into small dice, and press the pudding by putting a plate upon it with a weight on the top. Leave it in a cold place for three or four hoirrs, or all night if convenient. "When wanted, remove the weight and the plate, turn the pudding upon a dish, and serve. It will come out in a shape. A little custard or cream served with it will be a great improvement. The pudding derives its name from the fact that, thus made, it is served at one or two hj'dropathic establishments where the patients are not allowed to partake of pastry. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the strawberries. Strawberry Ice and Vanilla Ice in one mould. Flavour three-quarters of a pint of cream with half a stick of vanilla, by boiling them gently together for a short time ; sweeten the cream, mix with it the well-whisked yolks of three eggs, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken. Strain it into a bowl. Rub ripe sti-awberries through a sieve, and take half a pint of the juice. Thoroughly mix with this half a pint of sjTup at 35¦, and freeze the two creams in the usual way. Put an ice-mould in ice for a short time. Place in the middle of it a piece of cardboard, cut so as to fit the mould, and to divide it into two equal parts. Put the vanilla ice at one side of the STB ( 932 ) STE division, and the strawberry ice at the other. Draw out the separating cardboard, close the mould, and suiTound it with ice till it is frozen. When wanted, plunge it into hot water for an instant, turn it upside down on a napkin on a dish, and serve. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Strawberry Ice Cream. Pick the hulls off a pound of fresh, ripe, finely-flavoured strawberries, sprinkle half a pound of powdered sugar over them, bruise them weU with a wooden spoon, and rub them thi-ough a fine hair sieve. Mix with the juice thus obtained a pint of tliick cream, the juice of a lemon, and a few drops of cochineal. Freeze and mould in the usual way. Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberry Ice raade with Jam. Although strawberry ices majj be made with jam for convenience, they will not equal in flavour those made with fresh fruit. Take half a pound of strawberry jam ; mix with it a pint of cream, or milk and cream mixed, and the strained juice of a lemon. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve into the freezing-pot, and freeze in the usual way. Put it into a mould, set it again in ice, and let it remain imtil wanted. Strawberry Isinglass Jelly. Pick a quart of ripe red strawberries, put them into a bowl, and pour ujDon them a clear sjTup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar with a pint of water for a quarter of an hour. Cover the dish, and leave the fruit to soak all night. Put two ounces and a haK of isinglass into a saucepan with a pint of water which has been beaten up with haK the white of an egg. Stir the mixture, and heat it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, carefully removing the scimi till it ceases to rise. Strain the liquor through three or four folds of muslin, and when it is lukewarm, mix with it the syrup which has been drained from the strawberries, half a tea-cupful of red-currant juice, and the strained juice of a fresh lemon. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, put the jelly into a damp mould, and set it in a cool place or upon ice till it is set. If preferred, gelatine may be substituted for the isinglass, and the jelly will then be less expensive. The appearance of the mould will be improved if two or tlu'ee spoonfuls of jelly are first poured into the mould, allowed to stiffen, then ornamented with large ripe strawberries, and the mould filled with jelly and strawberries alternately. Time, eight or nine hours to set the jelly. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for two moderate-sized moulds. Strawberry Jam.. Gather the fruit after two or three days of diy weather, when it is fully ripe, but not over-ripe, or it will be flavourless, and may be tainted with bil-terness and the elements of decay. Pick the berries, and discard all that arc at all unsound. Weigh the strawberries, and take three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar for each potmd of fruit. Put a layer of berries into the preserving-pan, then a layer of sugar, and repeat until the pan is a little less than three-parts full. Set it at the side of, but not upon, the fire, and keep stirring gently to prevent burning ; but be careful not to ciush the fruit. Very carefully remove the scum as it rises, and let the jam boil gently until a little put upon a plate will set, or be stiff'. Take the pan from the fire, let its contents cool for a few minutes, then pour the jam into jars. Cover in the usual way. The flavour of strawberry jam depends a great deal upon the season. When the summer is cold, wet, and sunless, it is difficult to make jam with the real perfume of the fruit, although it may be made to keep by long boiling and an extra allowance of sugar. Time to boil, three quarters of an hour or more. Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. The fruit can generally be bought cheaper by the peck. Strawberry Jam (another way). Pick the strawberries, carefully look out and discard all that are unsound, and weigh the fruit. Boil it, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning, for half an hour, then mix in thoroughly, off the fire, half a pound of loaf sugar broken into small pieces for each original pound of fruit. Boil the jam quickly half an hour longer, or till it will set, and put it into jars in the usual way. Time to boil the fruit, half an hour with the sugar, and half an hour without the sugar. Strawberry Jam, Superior. Strawberry jam, although very delicious, is, if anything, too luscious. If made according to the following recipe, this fault will be corrected. Take the juice of three pints of ripe white or even red currants. Put this into a preserving-pan, and throw in four pounds of freshly-gathered ripe strawberries which have been picked and carefully looked over. Let the fruit boil, remove the scum, and add four pounds of refined loaf sugar. Boil the jam quickly iintil done enough. Put it into jars, and cover these in the usual manner. Time to boil the jam, from thirty to forty minutes. Strawberry Jelly. Take quite fresh fruit which has been gathered in dry weather. Pick the stalks from it, put it into a preservingpan (an enamelled one is the best for the purpose), and place it by the side of a clear fire that the juice may be drawn gently from it. As soon as this flows freely, simmer it imtil the berries appear to collapse, but on no account allow the juice to remain on the fire till it thickens. Pour the fruit Tipon a well-scalded but drj- sieve, and let the juice ch-ain thoroughly from it ; strain it through three or four thicknesses of mushn, and weigh it. Boil quickly for twenty minutes, and stir frequently. Take the pan from the fire, and then add very gradually fourteen ounces of coarsely-pounded loaf sugar for each pound of fruit. Let one portion be dissolved before another is added. When aU the sugar is dissolved, put the pan again on the fire, and boil the jelly until a little put upon a plate will stiffen. Pour the jelly into small jars, cover these in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Time to boil the jelly with the sugar, a quarter of an hour or more, according to the quality of the fruit. Probable cost, strawberries, from 4d. to 8d. per poimd ; less if bought by the pock. STU ( 933 ) STU Strawberry Salad. Take equal portions of strawljurries and red and white currants. Pick them, place them in layers, and pile them on a dish. tSprinkle powdered sugar over them, and pour thick cream upon them. The cream and sugar should not bo poured on the fruit till the last moment. If liked, other fruits, such as gooseberries, chen;ies, raspberries, (Sec, may be introduced into the salad. Strawberry Solid. Dissolve three quarters of an ounce of isinglass by boiling it in a quarter of a pint of water. Make a pint of cream very hot, and dissolve in it one pound of strawberry jelly. Add this to the isinglass, and beat the ingredients till they arc thoroughly blended and almost cool. Add a spoonful of powdered sugar if necessary. Poiu- the solid into a damp earthenware mould, as metal would spoil its colour, and when it is stiff it will be ready for use. If strawberry jellj' is not at hand, jam may be used instead, but it will need to be rubbed through a fine sieve to keep out the seeds. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Time, about an hour to prepare. Strawberry Vinegar. This vinegar is excellent for flavouring sweet sauces, also a spoonful or two put into a tumblerful of cold ?\vater forms a refreshing summer di-ink. Gather the fruit in dry weather, when it is fully ripe and finely flavoured. Let it be quite fresh. Pick and w-eigh it, and put it into stone jars or wide-mouthed glass bottles, and over each pound pour a quart of best white-wine vinegar. Cover the jars closely, and let the strawberries infuse in the vinegar for three daj's. Drain it off, and put it upon fresh fruit. Let this stand three ?days, and repeat the operation a third time. Drain off the liquor closely, and let it run through a canvas bag dipped in vinegar. Measure it, and stir into it until almost dissolved a pound of sugar broken up small for each pint of vinegar. Put it over a clear fire in an enamelled (not a metal) saucepan, and let it boil gently for five minutes. Pour it out, let it stand twelve minutes, skim it thoroughly, and bottle for use. Tims, ten days. Probable ?ost, Is. 6d. per pint. Strawberry Water (a refreshing summer L.-ink). Take half a pound of finely -flavoured strawbeiTies. Bruise them well in a basin with a wooden simoon, and mix with them four tablespoonfuls of finely-powdered sugar and a quarter of a pint of cold water. Rub them through a fine sieve, and filter what passes through the sieve till it is clear and bright. Wash the dregs in the sieve with a little cold water to prevent waste. Add the strained juice of half a lemon and a pint of cold water to the liquor, and put it in ice or in a cool place till wanted. Time, about an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. per pint. Sufficient for about a quart of water. Strawberry Water Ice. Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well with half a pound of red currants. Pour upon them a pint of clarified sugar, and add two or three drops of cochineal if liked. Rub the whole tin-ough a hair-sieve into a basin, and freeze in the usual way. Strawberry Wine. A simple method of making strawberry wine is to add a little strawberry-juice to good flavourless currant wine. To make it from fresh fruit, bruise three gallons of strawberries, and pour upon them three gallons of water. Let them infuse twenty-four hours. Strain the liquor through a canvas bag, and add eight pounds of lump sugar, two gallons of cider, one ounce of powdered red tartar, and the thin rind of a fresh lemon. "When putting the wine into the cask a little brandy may be added if liked. StufQ.ng. Stuffing is but a homely name for forcemeat, for the preparation of which various recipes are given under their appropriate headings. In making forcemeat great care should be taken that the ingredients are equally and smoothly mixed, that no one particular herb or sj ice overpowers the flavour of the rest; and that the seasoning is suited to the dish it is intended to accompany. Forcemeats should be of such a consistency that they can be cut through with a knife, yet they should neither be heavy nor dl?J When the r are made up into balls these should never be larger than a small nutmeg. AVlien intended for soups or ragouts, they should be cooked before being added to the dish. They will need to be fried till brown for brown sauce, and boiled for three minutes for white sauce. Stuffing, Alexandre Dumas'. Stuffing prepared in the following way was originally intended for turkey (to "avoid spending forty or fifty francs on truffles "), but it is equally suited to hare. Mince together veal, chicken, and partridge flesh, if these are to be had, in small and equal portions, and add four ounces of sausage-meat. Boil from fifteen to twenty fine Lyons chestnuts till tender in salt and water. A stick of celery may be simmered with them. "WTien the chestnuts are done enough, crush them, and mix them with the mincemeat. Put a clove of garlic and a handful of fresh green l arsley-leaves inside the hare, fill it with the stuffing, and sew up securely. Stuffing for Hare, Meg Dod's. Grate the crumb of a stale penny loaf, and soak it in port or claret. Slix with it four ounces of beef suet chopped small, a tea-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, a small pinch of minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of grated lemonrind, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a little salt and cayenne, ilix the ingredients thoroughly', and bind them together with yolk of egg. Put the forcemeat into the hare, and sow it up closely. If the liver -is in a soimd state, it may be parboiled, chopped, and mixed with the forcemeat. In the original recipe it was recommended that a boned anchovy should be added to this preparation. This may be introduced or omitted, according to taste. Stuffings, Forcemeat", Dr. Kitchiner on. -Forcemeat is considered an indispensable accompaniment to most made dishes, and when composed with good taste gives additional spirit and relish to even that " Sovereign of Savouriness" turtle soup. It is also sent up in patties STU (934 ) STU and for stufEnsj of veal, game, poultry, &c. The ingredients ahould be so proportioned that no flavour predominates. To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, &c., argues a poverty of invention; with a little contrivanee you may make (is great a variety as you have dishes. The poignancy of forcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness of tlie viands to which it is intended to give an additional zest. Some dishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat for others it must be full and highly seasoned. What would be jif waw e in a turkey would be insipid with turtle. Tastes are so different, and the praise the cook receives will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all her sagacity must be on the alert to produce the flavours to which her employers are partial. ]Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings, &c., and what exactly pleases one seldom is precisely what another considers the most agreeable, and after all the contrivance of a painstaking palatician to combine her " haut gouts''' in the most exquisite proportions, the very dish one likes the best is acid or insipid to the rest. Sturgeon. The sturgeon is a large fish somewhat resembling the shark in form. Its body is more or less covered with rows of bony spikes. In the north of Europe, and in some of the States of Noith America it is caught in abundance, but it is seldom met with in English rivers. It is said that those who have THE STDRGEON-, the good fortune to capture it arc bound to send their prize to the reigning sovereign, as the sturgeon is regarded as a royal fish. The flesh of the sturgeon is agreeable and wholesome, and looks something like veal. It was so highly esteemed in ancient days that it was crowned before being brought to table, and a band of music marched before it. Its roe is converted into caviare, a favourite Eussian delicacy, and from its air-bladder fine isinglass is prepared. It is occasionally to be met with in the London market, and generally fetches a good price; indeed, it is so rare, and costs so much., that when it is obtained it is generally di-essed regardless of expense. The sterlet, though the smallest, is the most highly-prized species of sturgeon. Its flesh is delicious, and its caviare is reserved exclusively for the Russian court. Price, when for sale, froiji 7s. 6d. per pound. Sturgeon (a la Cardinal). Take about two pounds of sturgeon. Cleanse thoroughly, and skin it. Bind it into shape firmly with. tajDe, and lay in a saucepan, and with it an onion stuck with four cloves, a little piece of mace, a sliced carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a glass of vinegar, and as much water as will cover the fish. Let all boil gently until the sturgeon is done. Lay it on a dish, pour lobster sauce over it, and serve. A few prawns and green parsley may be used as a garnish. The time required to boil sturgeon will vary according to the size and age of the fish from which the piece was taken from tlu-ee-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, from Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sturgeon (a la Provent ale). Take a slice of sturgeon cut from the middle of the fish, lard it all over with thin strips of ham, or even of eel, and brown it by putting it in a stewpan with a large slice of butter, a spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, half a clove of garlic, and a httle pepper and salt. Lay two or three bay-leaves on the top of the fish, and poma little stock round. Cover the saucepan closely, and lot the contents simmer over a gentle fire till they are done enough. Serve the fish on a hot dish, and send its own gravy, melted butter, brown sauce, anchovy sauce, or anj similar sauce, to table with it. Time, ic;cording to the age and size of the fish. Sturgeon (a la Russe). Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about two pounds. Cleanse thoroughly, scale it, remove the spikes, and 1 ly it in salt and water for ten or twelve hours. Vn hour before it is wanted rub it well with ?vinegar, and let it lie with a little vinegar poured round it. Put it into a fish-kettle with as much boiling water as will cover it, and add tA'o onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and an ounce of bay-salt. Let it boil gently till done ( Qough, take it up, flour it well, put it before a brisk fire, and baste it with butter till it is well browned. Put it on a dish, and pour over it, or serve separately in a tureen, a sauce prepared as follows : Bone and skin two anchovies, and put them into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a button omon, an inch of lemon-rind, and a cupful of stock. Boil all gently together for a minute or two. Strain the sauce, thicken it with flour and butter, stir two table-spoonfuls of thick cream into it, and serve. Sturgeon (a la Ude). Boil the sturgeon in salt and water. When it is done, drain, and mask or cover it with the following sauce: Reduce in a small stewpan four spoonfuls of elder vinegar. When it is half reduced, put in six spoonfuls of veloute, or rather a quantity proportionate to the size of the fish, and half a spoonful of cavice ; thicken the sauce with three yolks of eggs, and add a quarter of a pound of butter and some salt and pepper. Work this sauce well; drain the fish, a d cover STU ( 93o ) STU it with the sauce. In order to keep it thick and white, mix with it a little thick cream. Stlirgeon, Baked. Take a small sturgeon, skin and cleanse it thoroughly, and remove the inside. Lay it in a kirge hakingdish, sprinkle a little chopped parsley over it, together with a little pepper and salt. Moisten with a tumblerful of white wine ; lay some little pieces of butter here and there upon the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequently. When it is nicely browned, serve the sturgeon on a hot dish with its own sauce poured round it. Time to bake, about an hour. Sturgeon, Baked (another way). Split the sturgeon. ]\Iake a marinade either with wine or vinegar, and i)our it into a vessel largo enough to contain the fish, which cover with buttered paper to prevent its getting too high a colour. Baste frequently with the marinade. When the sturgeon is done, have the sauce made as in the recipe Sturgeon, Roasted, and use it to mask the fish. Put the maiinade in the dish with the sturgeon, but you may put skewers across the dish to prevent the fish from touching th(. liquid. If the fish is boiled in the liquid it will be thready, and not so palatable. Baste the fish with the marinade. Ucle. Sturgeon, Baked (a la Eeine). This is an expensive though a sapcrior dish. Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about foui- pounds, cleanse thoroughly, skin it, roll, and bind it firmly with tape ; put it into a saucepan with a glassful of vinegar and as much water as will cover it, and add a carrot, an onion, a little salt and pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it simmer gently until done enough. Drain it, and let it cool. Prepare as much forcemeat of whiting as will entirely cover the surface of the sturgeon {sec Quenelles of Cod, Salmon, &c.). Lay this on the fish, and smooth it with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water. Ornament with pink tongue, black truffles, and ])ickled gherkins cut into fancy shapes. Roll it in buttered paper, and fasten securely. Put it into a baking-dish, ]jour under it about a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, and bake it, basting occasionally with its liquor, in a gentle oven. Place it on a dish, garnish vith prawns and tufts of green pai'sley, and pour over or serve with it a little well-made ravigote sauce. Time to bake the sturgeon, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost, sturgeon, from Is. 6d. per pound. Sturgeon, Blanquette of (a la Paysanne). When you have some roasted sturgeon retximed, keep it to make a blanquette. Pare some round pieces nicely the size of half a crown, and put them into a sauce a blanquette, to which add a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon. This blanquette is sent to t;ible like all others 'in a vol-auvent, or a casserole, with rice, &c. Sturgeon, Blanquette of, with Peas. If you have any sturgeon left that is still very fresh, make a blanquetie with peas, which, not requiring to be highly seasoned, will admit only of fish v hirh i.s extremely sweet. After liaving simmered the peas as they arc always prepared for the second coursfe, take three spoonfuls of sauce toiu-nee, and reduce it with four spoonfuls of the peas, adding a very small bit of sugar. When your sauce is very thiok, jjut to it a thickening of two yolks of eggs, then put the sturgeon to it, and serve either in a vol-au-vent, or in a border of potatoes. Observo that in this dish the seasoning must be very mild. Sturgeon, Boiled, Cut the fish into thin slices like veal cutlets, rub them over with a little butter and give a sprinkling of pepper. Serve very hot with lemon gann'sh. Take great care to cut off the skin before the fish is boiled, as the oil in the skin if buint imparts a very rank flavoiir. Sturgeon, Choosing of. The flesh of this fish is partly white with a few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, goodcoloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue ; for when they are brown and yellow, and the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is not good. It has a pleasant smell when in perfection, but a very disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm, without crumbling. The females are as fuU of roe as a carp. Sturgeon, Croquettes of. Sturgeon is a fish absolutely resembling veal, and when fresh is as white as very tine veal ; when red, nothing can be done with it. If there is any returned of a very good white, but not sufiicient to make a croquette, make it into small timballes. Cut the sturgeon into dice, and put them into a sauce similar to that mentioned in Timballes of Turbot (see Turbot.) After having cut enough fish into dice to make the croquettes, take a bechamel and some muslirooms cut into dice, to which add a small lumj) of butter, salt, &c., and i)ut the fish into that sauce. Let them cool, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, as described for other croquettes. Fry them of a good colour, and serve some fiied parsley in the centre of the dish. Udc. Sturgeon Cutlets. Cut the sturgeon into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Wash these, dry them in a cloth, flour them, and dip them into egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. Fiy in hot fat until they are nicely browned on. both sides, di-ain them, and serve with piquant or tomato sauce. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Sturgeon, Fresh, Grilled. Cut the sturgeon into slices an inch thick. Dry these and dip them into egg and seasoned breadcrumbs, and fasten them in papers saturated with butter, or simply bi-ush them over with salad-oil, and sprinkle salt and pepper upon them. Broil them over a clear fire until they are sufiiciently cooked on both sides. Serve with melted butter, oyster, or anchovy sauce, or with piquant sauce to which a few drops of essence of anchovy and a small piece of butter have been added. Time to grill, about fifteen minutes, the time varying with the hvm and age of the fish. Sturgeon, Pried. Cut the. fish into slices, and fry in the usual m.nnner:.then poiir STU ( 936 ) STU off the fat, and put a little flour and boilingwater into the pan. Pour this into a stewpan, and add to it some sweet herbs and an onion, and season with pepper and salt. Let the fish stew till quite tender ; then strain the sauce, and servo it pouied round the fish, adding first a little lemon- juice. Sturgeon, Roasted. Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle of a good-sized fish. Cleanse thoroughly and skin it, season with salt and pepper, and tie thin slices of fat bacon round it. Take a piece of writingpaper large enough to cover the fish entirely. Butter it thickly, and spread over it sliced carrots and onions with a small quantity of powdered sweet herbs, and wrap the fish in it. Tie two more sheets of buttered paper upon it, bind securely Avith tape, and put the sturgeon in a cradle-spit, or tie it to an ordinary spit, and roast before a clear fire. When done enough take it down, pour a little matelote sauce over it, and send more to table in a tureen. The sauce may be made as follows : Put half a pint of good brown sauce into a saucepan Avitli eighteen fried button onions, the same number of small mushrooms, and a glassful of claret. Boil all gently together for ten minutes. Add a pinch of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a .smaU lump of sugar, and a few drops of essence of anchovy. When the ingredients are thoroughly mi.xed, take the sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissohed a small lump of butter, and it ?v\nll be ready for serving. Time to roast the fish, according to age and size. Sturgeon, Roasted (another way). Split the sturgeon; mnke a marinade with white ?\vine, with which baste the fish. Next take some of the marinade and reduce it with four large spoonfuls of good Spanish sauce. When the sauce is of a good consistency, put in it about half a pound of fre.sh butter kneaded with a little flour, suit, cayenne pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If you have no Spanish sauce, make a little thickening with flour and butter, and moisten with the marinade, having added to it a little glaze. Sturgeon, Roasted Whole. If it can be procured, take a small sturgeon whole. Remove the spilvcs, empty it, and cleanse, it thoroughly ; then sonk it in salt and water for ten or twelve hours. Put it in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a clear fire; baste constantly until it is half-dressed. Be very careful that the surface of the fish is not burnt, or it will be entirely spoiled. Cover with seasoned bread-crumbs, and continue roasting, basting it frequently, for half an hour. Serve with crab or anchovy snuce. This is a good dish for a dinner-party. Time to roast, about an hour. Sturgeon, Sauce for. If broiled or fried, any piquant s;iuc? or any of the sauces which usually accompany salmon may be served ?with sturgeon. When stewed (which is the most usual mode of dressing it), the liquor in_ which it was simmered may be strained, thickened, and either poured over it or served in a tureen. Sturgeon, Stewed. Take two pounds of .sturgeon cut into slices an inch thick. Soak these in strong vinegar for five minutes, drain them, dry them in a cloth, di ) them in flour, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take as much good nicely-flavoured veal stock as will barely cover the fish, throw into it a large glassful of madeira, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the fish gently for an hour. Put the slices on a dish, throw a spoonful of capers upon them, pour the sauce round them, and serve. Time to fry the slices, ten minutes ; to simmer them, one hour. Sturgeon, Stewed (another way). Dip the slices of fish in vinegar, then dry them, dredge them with flour, and broil or frj them. Next laj' them in a stewpan with some good broth, and let them stew gently till quite tender ; thicken with butter or cream, half a glassful of wine, and a spoonful of soy, ketchup, or Harvey's Sauce ; throw capers over the top, and serve up garnished with slices of lemon. Sturgeon Stewed and Garnished with Sole. Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle of a good-sized fish. Clean and scale it, and soak it in salt and water for ten or twelve houi-s. Drain, and cover it with thin slices of fat bacon. Put it into the fish-kettle, and almost cover it with nicelyflavom-ed stock. Add a glassful of claret, and simmer it gently until done enough. FiUet five or six soles. Spread a thin layer of fish forcemeat on the skinned side of each fillet, roll it, tie twine round it, and put the fillets side by side in a buttered baking-dish. Pour round them as much stock as will almost cover them, and bake them in a moderate oven. AVhen the sturgeon is done enough, drain it, place it on a hot dish, put the rolled fillets of sole round it, and pour over them a small portion of the liquor, strained and thickened, in which the fish was boiled. A small stewed mushroom may be placed on each roll. If 2:)referred, the soles may be omitted altogether, and the sturgeon, being cooked as above, may be served on a hot dish, and simply garnished with parsley and cut lemon. Caper sauce and plainly -boiled potatoes may then be served as accompaniments. Sturgeon, Stuffed and Roasted. Take the tail end of a moderate-.sized sturgeon ; cleanse thoroughly, then bone and skin it. Fill it with good veal forcemeat, roll it in buttered paper, and bind it securely with tape. Place it in a cradle-spit, put it down before a clear fire, and baste liberally whilst it is roasting. When it is done enough, serve on a hot dish with plain melted butter, brown gra\y, or a sauce prepared as follows : Put into a small saucepan a glassful of sherry, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and a few drops of essence of anchovy. Let the sauce boil uj) ; then serve. Time to roast, about an hour. Sturgeon, Various ways of Cooking. "Sturgeon, rc? ;," says Dr. Kitchiner, " is esteemed a good fish by many ; but, I believe, only because it does not come plentiful enough to be common, and to the eater of fish it makes a change. A piece stewed, with SUE (S37) SUE some good gravy, is the Lest way of dressing ; or cut in slices and fried, as you would a veal cutlet, it eats very well. Sturgeon pickled makes a handsome winter dish for a second course." Suedoise of Apples, or Apple Hedgehog {?' cc Apple Hedgehog). Suedoise of Peach.es. Boil six ounces of retined sugar in half a pint of water till it is a clear syrup. Put into this half a dozen fine ripe peaches which have heen merely wiped with a soft cloth, and let them simmer very gently for si.x or eight minutes. Lift them out carefully, pare them, split them in halves, and let them soak for a while in half the syrup. Into the other half throw two pounds of ripe jjeaches which have been pared and split inhalves, and boil them till they form a smooth dry pulp. Add as much sugar as they require to sweeten them pleasantly, and also a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice to bring out the flavour. Spread a layer of this pulp at the bottom of a dish, arrange the peaches upon it, leaving out three or four of the halves, and fill all the empty spaces with the pulp. Stick half a blanched peach-kernel in each peach, and pour over all the reduced sj-rup. Garnish the dish with a border of macaroons or ratafias, or even of candied peel stamped in fancy shapes. Pile the unused halves of peaches on the top of the dish, and serve. When peaches are expensive, the fruit pulp may be made of apples instead of peaches. Time to simmer the whole peaches, six to eight minutes ; to boil the fruit to pulp, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, peaches, very variable. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Suet, Beef, for Pie-crust {see Beef Suet for Pie-crust). Suet Crust (see Crust, Suet, for Puddings). Suet Dumpling, Plain. It cannot be too strongly insisted upon, and mothers of families cannot be too fully persuaded that a certain quantity of fat taken with food is absolutelj necessary to health. Those who do not take it are psirticularly liable to consumption, and this is specially the case with j'oung people who are growing rapidly. To these anxious friends administer fat as a medicine in the shape of cod-liver oil, but it matters little in what shape fat is taken, the effect on the system of dripping, butter, or oil being exactly the same. Unfortunately, though one man can lead a horse to water, a" hundred cannot make him drink, and it is useless to set j before delicate, perhaps fanciful, persons things from which, however nourishing and wholesome, they turn away with dislike and loathing. ' There are families in which every scrap of fat which is served to its members seated at table j is left on the plate and thrown to the cat or into the dust-bin. This ought not to be. It j does not often happen, indeed, in households i where the members of the families are employed out of doors, but it does when their occupations are sedentary. We have no right to say an j unkind word about "daintiness" if those who j are confined all day long in a close in-door i atmosphere have not the sharp-set appetite of j the ploughman who hears the singing of the lark, and feels the freshness of the breeze from misty daybreak to ruddy sunset. Still, we would urge those who think they can take no meat but lean to use the fat under some disguise. They already take it in many shapes unconsciously, and without thinking of it, as in broth, milk, and butter, and even in meat which they call and consider lean. The housewife, at any rate, ought to be thoroughly convinced of the great importance of all kinds of fat in family dishes. She ought to see that none is wasted, to procure all she can at an economical rate, to buy not one ounce less than the usual quantity of good wholesome fat with the meat, and then so to employ it that her family shall be cheated, as it were, into taking, almost without knowing it, what is essential for their bodily welfare. One of the easiest ways of doing this is to serve fat in puddings, and amongst puddings of the kind one of the most excellent is suet dumpling. This is wholesome, excellent, and cheap ; it may be made more or less substantial, its flavour may be varied according to taste, and it can be eaten as a savoury or a sweet dish. For plain suet dumpling, the best suet is the kidney-fat of beef or veal, which can be bought separately in small quantities, and at a moderate, though, imfortunately, a graduallyincreasing price. To make the dumiilings, clear the suet from skin and fibre, chop it fine, and to a pound of flour put from a quarter to half a pound of chopped suet. Before putting in the suet, however, mix with the flour a pinch of salt, and, if liked, a small pinch of pepper, and if a small quantity only of suet is used, add a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Add cold water to make the mixture into a tolerably stiff dough. Divide this into balls about the size of a large orange. Flour them well. Tie each one separately and securely in a cloth which has'been wrung out of boiling water and floured, and be careful to leave the dumplings room to swell. Throw them into fast-boiling water, and keep them boiling quickly until done enough. Turn them out of the cloth, and serve immediately. Jam, sugar, treacle, sweet sauce, or salt and mcat-gi avy may all be served with them. "WTien the dumplings are to be served with the meat they may be thrown without cloth into the liquor in which the meat is boiled, and allowed to remain until done enough. Time to boil the dumplings, half to'three-quai'ters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost, suet, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, one dumpling for each person. Suet Dumplings, Excellent. Shred finely six ounces of suet freed from skin and fibre. Add to it a tea-spoonful of salt, six ounces of flour, and two ounces of bread-crumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Break two eggs into a bowl, whisk them well, mix with them six table -spoonfuls of milk, and stir all well together. Divide the mixture into five or six dumplings, tie these separately into cloths lightly dredged with flour, and boil them quickly until done enough. If any of these dumplings are left, they may bo cut into slices, fried in butter, and served a second time. Time to boil, three quarters of an hour to one houTj STTE ( 938 ) SUE according to size. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet Dumplings, Sweet. Prepare the suet dumpling as in the last recipe. Before putting the suet into the flour, take the necessary quantity of salt, and mix with it a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg or spice, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen. Mix aU thoroughly together, make the mixture into dough, divide it into balls, and boil as before. A few currants may be added if liked, and instead of sugar a spoonful of treacle may be dissolved in the water. Time to boil the dimiplings, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Dumplings made with one pound of flour and half a pound of suet will be suflicient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 8d. Suet, Milk {see :Milk Suet). Suet Paste for Boiled Puddings {see Paste, Suet, &c.). Suet Pastry, Common. Suet pastry is especially suited for boiled fruit or meat puddings. To make it, put a pound of flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt and from six to eight ounces of good suet which has been finely shred and freed entirely from skin and fibre. The suet should be well rubbed into the flour. Make a hole in the centre of the mixture, and pour in a small tea-cupful of water. Stir this in lightly with a knife, and if necessary add more water. Work the whole to a stiff joaste, roll it out two or three times, and let it stand a few minutes before using it. If a small quantity only of suet is used, a tea-spoonful of bakingpowder may be added, and this will help to make the pastry light. Suet Pastry, Rich (for meat pies, &c.). If the following directions are attended to, suet may be used instead of butter for makingpuff paste for meat pies which are to be served hot. If they are to be eaten when cold, butter had better be used. The dilference in the expense between suet and good butter is considerable, and bad butter will spoil anything. Take some dry veal or beef-kidney suet. Free it entirely from skin and fibre, chop it small, then pound it in a mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding a tea-spoonful of salad-oil till the suet looks like butter. If oil is not at hand, fresh butter may be used instead. Two ounces will be sufficient for half a pound of suet. Proceed as for puff paste {see Paste, Puff, or Feuilletage). Suet, lOd. per pound. Suet Pudding {see Kentish Suet Pudding). Suet Pudding (another way). Chop eight ounces of suet finely. Mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of augar, and the grated rind and strained juice of a lemon. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Tie the mixture in a cloth, leaving room for the pudding to swell, and boil quickly till done enough. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet Pudding (another way). Chop small four ounces of suet free from skin and fibre. Add a pinch of salt, a little grated J ginger, and half a pound of flour. Whisk two eggs -with a quarter of a pint of milk. Stir this into the mixture till it is smooth and light. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, being careful to leave it room to swell, and boil quickly till done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, about two hours. Probable cost, Gd. Sufficient for four persons. Suet Pudding, Dr. Kitchiner's. Shred finely seven ounces of good kidney suet. Put this into a bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, half a teaspoonful of thin lemon-rind chopped small, four ounces of fiour, and three ounces of breadcrumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Vhisk two fresh eggs till they are light and frothy, add gradually a quarter of a pint of Inillc, and stir the liquor into the pudding. Let it stand half an hour. Put it in one lump into a well-floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, thi-ee hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet Pudding, Fruit {see Fruit Suet Pudding) . Suet Pudding, Plain. An excellent jilain suet pudding may be made by following the instructions already given for making suet dumplings, then boiling the preparation whole instead of dividing it into dumplings. A pudding thus made will be excellent if served with the joint, and with plenty of gravy ; or it may be sent to table separately, having had a jar of jam emptied upon it at the last moment. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Suet Pudding, Plain (served with sugar and lemon-juice). Rub two ounces of finelyshred suet into a pound of flour. Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and just before the water or milk is added mix in two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. Add water to make a tolerably light paste ; then put the pudding in a floured cloth, and boil it till done enough. This pudding is also very good with gravy. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, od. Sufficient for four or five persons. , Suet, to Clarify for Frying. Chop the suet roughly, free it from skin and fibre, and melt it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Pour the fat off frequently as it melts, for fear it should burn ; or put the minced suet into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is dissolved. Pour the liquor into a basin, and when it is cold take the cake of fat from the top. Melt it again, strain it through muslin, keep back the sediment, and the fat will be fit for use. Clarified suet is excellent for making plain pastry, and also for basting and frying purposes. Suet, to Keep for Months.- Take firm but perfectly sweet suet. Free it entirely from skin and fibre, and put it in a saucepan over a very gentle fire. Let it melt gradually. Pour it into a pan of cold water. When it is cold and SUF ( 939 ) SUG hard, wipe it dry with a soft cloth, wrap it in paper, put it in a linen bag, and hang- it in a cool dry place. Scrape it when it is wanted for nse. Fresh suet will keep for several days if it is chopped fine with all the veiny pieces removed, then put into a jar entirely covered with Hour, and kept in a cool place. Suffolk -bang Cheese. There are cases in Avhich dairy-fju'mers skim the milk before they begin to make cheese. These cheeses arc remarkable for their hardness, because caseine, independently of the butter, is an exceedingly hard substance ; and these cheeses are sometimes brouglit into the market, and they are so hard that the}' are the subject of many a joke. Of such are the Suffolk-bang cheeses made by frugal housewives in that county, who first take the butter and send it to market, and then make their cheese. It is said of it in derision that "dogs bark at it, pigs grunt at it, but neither of them can bite it." Lanke&tcr. Suffolk Buns. Rub four ounces of lard into a pound of ilour ; add a spoonful of salt, two tea-s xionfuls of baking powder, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of currants or caraway-seeds. iMix the dry ingredients thoroughly ; whisk two eggs and stir them into the mixture, to make a smooth firm paste. A little milk may be added if necessary. Roll the paste out to the thickness of an inch. Stamp it in rounds, and bake these on tins in a gentle oven. If preferred, ground rice and butter may be used instead of Hour and lard. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Suffolk Dumplings. Mix some bread dough lightly with milk instead of water ; let it rise before the fire for an hour. Have ready a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Divide the dough into balls the size of an orange, thi-ow them into the water, and boil them quickly until done enough. When a fork stuck to the centre of them comes out quite clean they are done enough. Serve at once. When eating the dumplings do not cut them with a knife, but tear them apart with a fork and spoon. Send butter and sugar, and lemon-juice, or treacle, to table with them. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Sufficient, allow one for each person. Suffolk Dumplings (?'? Hard or Sufltolk Dumplings). Sugar, Barley. Take any quantity of clarified sugar in that state that on dipping the finger into the pan the sugar which adheres to it will break with a slight noise ; this is called crackling. When the sugar is near this, put in two or three drops of lemon- juice or a little vinegar to prevent its graining. When it has come to the crack, take it off instantly, and dip the pan into cold water to prevent its burning; let it stand a little, and then pour it on a marble which must have been previously rubbed with oil. Cut the sugar into small pieces, when it will be ready for use. One drop of citron will flavour a considerable quantity. Sugar Biscuits. No. l. Beat a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add a pound of powdered and sifted sugar and a pound of dried flour, and any flavouring that may be preferred. IMake the mixture into paste by stirring milk or cream into it ; I'oll it out very thin, stamp it into rounds or squares; prick these with a fork, and bake on buttered tins in a well-heated oven. No. 2. Take four eggs, with an equal weight of finely-pounded sugar and half the weight of dried flour. Break the eggs, and put the yolks and the whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks and the sugar together for half an hour; add the flour with any flavouring that may be chosen, and when the mixture is quite smooth add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Drop the biscuits in knobs upon sheets of buttered paper, sift sugar upon them, and bake in a quick oven. No. 3. Put half . a pint of milk into a bowl, and stir into it I as much flour as will form a thick batter. Add a spoonful of salt and a gill of yeast, and set the sponge on the hearth to rise. This should be done in the evening. Next morning dissolve without heating two ounces of butter. Add tliis to the sponge, and knead in as much flour as will form a dough and a little powdered white sugar. Let the dough rise before the fire till it is quite light; divide it into biscuits, handling it as lightly as possible, and put these into buttered tins. Let them rise again for a short time, and bake them in a brisk oven. When they are done enough, brush them over with a syrup of sugar and water, and sift powdered sugar upon them. Sugar Boiled from Syrup to Caramel. There are several degrees in boilingsugar from clarified syrup to caramel. The process requires not only care but an exj erience which can, perhaps, only be expected from a confectioner. Recipes are given for boilingsugar to the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth degrees. These are the principal gradations, and they are further divided by professional persons. When great nicety is required, the condition of the sugar can be best ascertained by a saccharometer, which is an instrument constructed for the purpose of detei-mining the exact condition of preparations of this nature. The finest sugar only should be used in confectionery. It is really the most economical, as common sugar wastes much more when it is being clarified. Sugar, to Clarify. Break the sugar into large lumps, and put it into a delicately-clean preserving-pan. Allow a pint of water to each pound if it is for syrup ; if for candying less than half that quantity will be sufiicient. The white of one egg will also be required for twelve pounds of sugar if it is refined ; for six pounds if it is coarse. Beat the white of es g lightly ; stir it into the water, and pour the mixture upon the sugar. Let it stand until di.' solved ; then stir it well, and put it upon a gentle fire. Do not disturb it after the scum begins to form. Let it boil for five minutes ; take it fi-om the fire, let it stand for two minutes, and carefully remove all the scum. Set it on the fire again, and when it is about to boil up throw in a little cold water, which has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity originally measured. Boil till the scum form's again ; draw it from the fire, let it settle, then skim it as before, and repeat this operation till SITG (940) SUG the syrup is quite clear. If it is not properly cleared it wiU rise over the pan when it is boiled to a height. Strain the syrup throiigh musUn, and it will be fit for use or for further boiling. To prevent waste, the scuni should be laid on a sieve, and any syrup that runs from it should be boiled up again. First Decree, named Candied Sugar. Take the ?sugar clarified as above, and put it again on the fire. Let it boil till smooth. Dip the hand quickly in and out of cold water to keep it from iDeing burnt; take from the skimmer a drop of the sjTup, press it quickly, draw it apart, and if it forms a brittle thread it has attained the first degree. Second Degree, named Souffle, or Bloii-n Sugar. Boil the candied sugar still longer. Dip in the skimmer, shake off the sugar, and blow strongly tlirough the holes of the skimmer. When the sugar forms into bubbles it has attained the second degree. Third Degree, named Feathered Sugar. Boil the blown sugar still longer. Dip the skimmer again in the pan, shake oii the sugar, then give it a quick toss. If it fiies off like down or feathers it has attained the third degree. Fourth Degree, named Crackling Sugar. Boil the feathered sugar a short time longer. Dip a stick in the sugar, and plunge it instantly into cold water. If the sugar that hangs to the stick becomes instantly hard the sugar has attained the fourth degree. In making this experiment the cook must be careful that the water in which she tries the sugar is perfectly cold. If it is not she may be misled. If the sugar is intended for barley-sugar, a little grated lemon or essence of lemon should now be added, and the sugar should be poured upon a broad dish; and when the edges begin to harden it should be divided into strips and twisted. If there is any fear that the sugar wUl grain or return again to powder a little lemon- juice may be added. Fifth Degree, named Caramel. Boil the sugar until when a little is put into cold water it hardens instantly and snaps like glass. Squeeze in a little lemon-juice; let the sugar remain one minute longer on the fire, then, if it is wanted for sugar spinning, set the pan in another of cold water, and the caramel will be ready for use. Care should be taken that the fire is not very fierce when the sugar is being boiled, for if it flames up at the sides of the pan it may burn and spoil the sugar, i pun sugar is a pretty ornament for sweetmeats, and may be made of sugar thus prepared. Moulds of a suitable size and form should be oiled with almond oil, and then with a fork the sugar should be spread over them in fine tkreads of chain or network. These moulds will look very pretty if placed upon an iced cake, and they can be used several times if they are carefully handled. One way of performing this reaUy difficult operation is to tie two forks together with the prongs outwards, dip them lightly in the sugar, take them out, and shake them backwards and forwards over the oiled moulds or whatever else is to be covered. The manufacture of spun sugar belongs rather to the skill of the confectioner, however, than to that of the cook. Sugar Browning, for Coloiiring Soups, Sauces, and Made Dishes. When sauces and made-dishes need to be thickened as well as browned, roux or brown thickening should be used. When the colour only is required, it may often be sufficiently imparted by means of a Little claret or mushroom ketchup, or by frying the meat and onions used till they are a light-brown colour, or by stewing onion-skins or burnt onions in the sauce. Some cooks adopt the slovenly and dangerous practice of melting a knob of sugar in an iron spoon, and adding this to the preparation ; but this plan is almost certain to give to the sauce a bitter, burnt taste. Sugar browning is a convenient preparation, which will give to the sauce the requisite brown colour, and if it be carefully made there will be no fear that it wiU impart an unpleasant taste. To make it, proceed as follows : Take a quarter of a pound of good brown sugar ; put it into a delicately-clean saucepan, and stir it without ceasing over a gentle fire till it melts and begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it back, and let it bake slowly, still stirring, until it is almost black without being at all burnt. Pour a quart of water upon it, let it boil gently until dissolved, skim it, strain through muslin, put the preparation when cold into small bottles, stopper closely, and it will be fit for use. If liked, this browning may be slightly flavoured by the addition of ketchup, cloves, onions, pepper, and salt ; but it is more likely to be generally useful if it is quite plain. Time to prepare, about an hour. Sufiicient, a few drops will colour a pint of gra-\y. Sugar, Burnt, or Caramel (see Caramel or Burnt Sugar). Siigar Cakes. Rub half a pound of fresh butter to cream ; then add half a pound of powdered sugar, three well-whisked eggs, one pound of flour, and as much milk as will form a dough. The milk and flour should be added alternately. Roll the pastry out, cut it in small round cakes, and bake these on a floured tin in a moderate oven. Sugar, Clarified, for Fresh-water Ices. Break two pounds of refined sugar into small pieces, and put these into a saucepan with two pints of cold water. Let the sugar dissolve, then add a tea-spoonful of white of egs lightly beaten. As the scum rises take it off, and keep the sugar boiling until the scum ceases to rise. Vhen it is quite clear, strain it thi-ough muslin, and it wiU be fit for use. If liked, it may be put into a bottle and closely stoppered. It will keep for some time. Time to boil, ten minutes. Sugar, Coloured. Crush some lump sugar coarsely. Drop a little prepared cochineal upon the palms of the hands, and rub the sugar between them till it is equallj- coloured. Put it in a warm place, and when dry it will be ready for use. Spinach-juice may be used to colour the sugar green, and an infusion of saffron to colour it yellow. Chocolate will impart a brown tint, and a little indigo a blue tint. Pink sugarcandy is very pretty for ornamenting cakes and sweet dishes. sua (941) sua Sugar, Devices in. To make these take any quantity of powdered loaf sugar, make it into a paste with mucilage, and mould it to taste. Sugar, Fish Preserved with. A method adopted in Portugal for preserving fish consists in removing the viscera and sprinkUng sugar over the interior, keeping the fish in a horizontal position, so that the air may penetrate as much as possible. It is said that fish preserved in this way can be kept fresh for a long time, the savour being as perfect as if recently caught. Sahnon thus treated before salting and smoking possess a much more agreeable taste, a table-spoonful of sugar being suificient for a five-pound fish. Sugar Icings and Glazings, for Cakes, &C. Take the whites of four eggs without a speck of yolk ; beat them lightly for half a minute till they are frothy, and add one pound of loaf sugar which has been powdered, dried, and sifted. Beat the mixture well with a wooden spoon. Add a tea-spoonful of lemonjuice, a few drops at a time. When the liquid looks thick, white, and shining it is ready for use. It should be spread evenly over the cake, which has been already baked and allowed to cool, then it should be dried in a cool oven or before the fire. It may be coloured, if liked, with cochineal, &c. If it is wished to ornament the cake with an ice beading, put a little of the icing into a small piece of white paper twisted into the fomi of a white sugar-bag. Squeeze this so that the sugar will come out through the hole at the bottom in a thin stream, and with this forai any suitable devices on the cake. To impart to pastry a clear glaze which resembles barley-sugar, dip the surface of the pastry into liquid caramel {see Sugar, BoUed from Syrup to Caramel), or sift powdered and dried white sugar thickly upon it, and melt it by holding a salamander or red-hot shovel close to it. This glaze needs to be carefully preserved from damp. Sugar Paste, for Tarts, &e. Rub four ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour; add a little salt and three ounces of sugar. "Work the whole into a smooth paste with an egg and a little water. Use as reqidred. Sugar, Pink, for Ornamenting Sweet Dishes {see Piok Sugar). Sugar Roly-poly. Make a good suet crust ; roll it out as is usual in making rolypoly pudding, and instead of jam spread brown sugar upon it. Finish in the usual way, or send melted butter sweetened with sugar and flavoured with vinegar or lemon- juice to table with it. Sugar, Small Ornaments of. Soak a little gum tragacanth in water. IMake it into a paste by mixing double refined powdered sugar upon it. Colour this with cochineal, spinachjuice, yolk of eg , chocolate, or indigo, &c., to give it the desired tinge, and mould it to any shape. Pretty ornaments may be thus made for cakes and sweet dishes. Sugar, Varieties of. The sugar met with in commerce is usually of four kinds brown, or muscovado sugar, clayed sugar, refined or loaf sugar, and sugar candy. The difference between one sort of sugar and another depends altogether on the dift'erent mode in which it is prepared. 1. Broioi, or Muscovado Sugar. The plants or canes being crushed in a mill, the juice having passed thi-ough a strainer is collected in the clarifier, where it is first exposed to the action of a gentle fire, after being " tempered" (mixed with alkali) for the pui-pose of facilitating the separation of the liquor from its impurities. It is then conveyed into the large evaporating copper, and successively into two others, each of smaller size, the superintending boiler freeing it, during the process, from the scum and feculent matters which rise to the surface. The syrup then reaches the last copper vessel, called the " striking tache," where it is boiled till sufiiciently concentrated to be capable of granulating in the cooler, whence it is transferred with the least possible delay to prevent charring. Here it soon ceases to be a liquid, and when fully crystallised is put into hogsheads (called "potting") placed on their ends in the curing-house, with several ajiertures in their bottoms, through which the molasses drain into a cistern below. In this state they remain till properly cured, when the casks are filled up and prepared for shipment. 2. Clayed Siir ar is prepaied by taking the juice, as in the case of muscovado sugar, when boiled to a proper consistency, and pouring it into conical pots with the apex downwards. These pots have a hole at the lower extremity', through which the molasses or syrup is allowed to drain. After this draining has continued for some time a stratum of moistened clay is spread over the surface of the pots, the moisture of which, pei'colating thi-ough the mass, is found to contribute powerfully to its purification. 3. Hefincd Sugar may be prepared from muscovado or clayed sugar by re-dissolving the sugar in water, and after boiling it with some purifying substance, pouring it as before into conical pots, which are again covered with moistened clay. A repetition of this process produces double-refined sugar ; but a variety of improved processes are now resorted to. 4. Sugar Candy. Solutions of brown or clayed sugar boiled imtil they become thick, and then removed into a hot room, formed upon sticks or strings put into the vessels for that purpose into crystals or candy. MacCuUoch. Sugar Vinegar. Put eight pounds of the coarsest and cheapest moist sugar into five gallons of water. Stir the liquor well, boil it, skimming carefully till the scum ceases to rise. Pour it into a cask, and when it is lukewarm put into it a thick piece of toast wellcovered with fresh yeast. Leave it open for four or five days, then paste a piece of paper over the bung-hole, and prick it in three or four places with a pin. Keep it in a warm dry place till it is ready, then draw it off, and bottle it. Before bottling it, boil it a quarter of a minute, as this will keep it from Vjecoming thick and cloudy. The vessels containing the vinegar should not be quite filled, nor should the vinegar be kept entirely from the air. If SUG ( 942 ) SUM this vinegar is made in March or April, it ?ill be ready for bottling in September. Sugar Vinegar (another way) . To every gallon of water add two pounds of brown sugar and little yeast. Have it exposed to the sun for six months in a vessel slightly stopped. Sugar Vinegar, Strong. Put a gallon of water into a stewpan with seven pounds of coarse moist sugar, stir it for a minute or two, then boil it for half an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Pour it out, and when it is new-milk-warm, or from sixty to sixty-five degxees Fahrenheit, put into it a thick piece of toast well covered with fresh yeast. Let it stand for two days, and stir frequently. Put it into a cask, paste a piece of paper over the bung-hole, and put it in a warm diy place. Let it stand till ready, then little for use. This strong vinegar will be found excellent for all purposes. Sugar, Wholesomeness of. Sugar is nutritious, antiseptic, and laxative. In moderate quantities it is wholesome, but from its tendency to ferment it is apt in some constitutions to produce flatulency, heat, and thirst. It should not be made too free with by those who wish to preserve their teeth white and sound. SugMio, Italian. This preparation is simply stock which has been made of wine instead of water. It is appropriately seasoned with herbs and spices, and various delicacies, such as fowls, game, macaroni, &c., are cooked in it. If the meat of which the stock is made be taken up before it is too much dressed, it will of itself form an excellent dish. Sultana Haisins. Sultana raisins hardly possess sufficient flavour to be used alone in puddings or cakes, but they are excellent when mixed with other kinds, such as valencias or muscatels. They are very convenient because they are stoneless, though they have a good many little stalks about them which need to be carefully picked out before the raisins are used. Summer Beverages. Recipes for various summer beverages will be found under their respective headings. We give here however, a few additional recipes. Aerated Beverages. These may be enjoyed in every household by the emplojonent of a gazogene. This is a portable apparatus for aerating water and other liquids, ib is to be obtained in many different forms, but in all the principle is the same. In one compartment powders are placed for generating carbonic acid gas, in another is the liquid to be aerated. The two compartments communicate with each other by a suitable tube, and a second tube furnished with a spring tap affords a means of exit for the aerated liquid. By means of the gazogene water, wine, ale, &c., may in a few minutes be rendered brisk and piquant by means of carbonic acid. By the employment of fruit syrups manufactured from English and foreign fruits, the most delicious aerated summer beverages may bo produced. "Boinba." This a pleasant drink common in Italy. It is made by blanching about two ounces of sweet almonds, and rubbing them down to a smooth pulp in a mortar with an equal weight of sugar ; to this a single bitter almond should be added, and also rubbed down to a paste. One quart of water should be gradually added in a fine stream to this pulp, aii assistant keeping the pestle continually rolling to insure perfect admixture. This is peculiarly grateful and delicate in taste. Cheese or Milk Whey. This is an excellent drink in summer-time. So also is buttermilk, especially when the cows feed on good fresh herbage. In northern countries, buttermilk is kept tiU it becomes sour, and separates into a curd or whey, which possesses considerable acidity, but notwithstanding is exceedingly wholesome, and forms a refreshing beverage. In the North it is a common drink with labourers. C'ulcr Oup. Take two bottles of cider, two glassfuls of sherry, and one of liqueur. Add the juice of one lemon and half of the peel cut thin, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and the white of an ( beaten to a froth and poured over the mixture. Ice well. Cool Tankard. Put into a quart of mild ale a wine-glassful of white wine, the .same of brandy and capillaire, the juice of a lemon, and a little piece of the rind. Add a sprig of borage or balm, a bit of toasted bread, and nutmeggrated on the top. Cooling Brink. Dissolve six table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar in a tumblerful of water, pour it into a large jug with a bottle of claret; stir, and add one bottle of champagne and two of soda water, and ice well. Cranberry Brink. Put a tea-cupful of cranberries into a cupful of water, and mash them. Boil, in the meantime, two quarts of water with one largo spoonful of oatmeal and a bit of lemon-peel ; add the cranberries, and sugar (but not too much, otherwise the fine sharpness of the fruit will be destroyed), a quarter of a pint of white wine, or less, according to taste ; boil for half an hour, and strain. Curds and Whey (a cheap method). Add six grains of citric acid to a wine-glassful, of milk, and the result will be a pleasant acidulous whey and a fine curd. Curds and Whey (Italian method). Take several of the rough coats that line the gizzards of turkeys and fowls, cleanse from the dirt, rub well with salt, and hang them up to dry; when required for use, break off some of , the skin, pour boiling water on, digest for eight, or nine hours, and use the same as rennet. Fruit Beverages. These maybe manufactured from nearly all the fruits which can be made into jams. The jam is to be prepared as usual, and a small portion, say .about two ounces, stirred in a quart of water. For summer use the follo\ving jams or pulps are specially refreshing: Tamarinds (very much used in Italy, especially in conjunction with effervescent waters), black-currant jelly, raspberry jam, vinegar, or syrup, apple jelly, and quince jam. Ginger Beer (Dr. Kitchiner's recipe). To eleven gallons of water put ten pounds of loaf sugar, half a pound of bruised ginger, the rind of four lemons, and the whites of four eggs SUM C 943) SUM beaten into a strong froth ; mix them all well together while cold, and put the preparation into a copper. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then pour it into a cooler, and put to it two ounces of cream of tartar and the inside of six lemons sliced and the pijis taken out. When it is nearly cold, put into a cloth four tablespoonfuls of yeast, and pour the liquor in upon it. When done woi-king, bung it up, and let it stand a fortniglit ; then bottle it off, and it will be fit for drinking in about ten days. Ginger Beer (other ways). Take a pound and a half of common brown sugar or treacle, a gallon and a half of water, an ounce of ground ginger, and a lemon if liked. Boil, and then add yeast. 2. Dissolve four ounces of candied ginger in two gallons and a quarter of boiling water, add two pounds of sugar, one ounce of powdered citric acid, when nearly cold, and two table-spoonfuls of yeast. Lemonade. This favourite beverage is easily made and extremely refreshing. To make a quart, take two lemons or more, according to taste, pare thinly off a little of the rind, or rub lumps of sugar upon it. Squeeze out the juice of the fruit, and mix it with two ounces of white sugar, including what has been rubbed upon the lemons. Add boiling hot water, and when cool enough strain the liquor. Dilute the preparation with water to the strength required. Should lemons not be in season, syrup of lemons m.ay be used, or crystallised citric acid and sugar, adding a few drops of the essence of lemon. Lemonade, like all similar drinks, is rendered much more refreshing by being iced. Lemonade (au kit) Take half a pint of lemonjuice, the same of white wine, three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and a quart of boiling water. Mix, and when cold add a pint of holling milk. Lot it stand twelve hours, then pour through a jelly-bag. This makes two quarts ; about seven lemons will produce half a pint of juice. Lemonade (Soyer's recipe). Thinly peel the third part of a lemon, which put into a basin with two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Roll the lemon with your hand upon the table to soften it ; cut it in two lengthwise, squeeze the juice over the peel, &c., stir round for a minute with a spoon to form a sort of syrup, pour over i. pint of water, mix well, and remove the pips ; ?\t will then be ready for use. If a very large lemon and full of juice and very fresh, you may make a pint and a half to a quart, adding sugar and peel in proportion to the increase of water. The juice only of the lemon and sugar will make lemonade, but it will then be deprived of the aroma which the rind contains, the said rind being generally thrown away. Mint Julep. Put about a dozen of the young sprigs of mint into a tumbler. Add a tablespoonful of white sugar, half a wine-glassful . of peach, and the same of common brandy, then fill up the tumbler with poimded ice. Nectar. This is a verj' simjile and pleasant drink, and generally liked. Dissolve two pounds of loaf sugar in three quarts of hot water. 'UTien cool, add quite half an ounce of tartaric or, jireferably, citric acid, and a teaspoonful of fresh essencs of lemon. Colour aqcording to fancy with burnt sugar, strain, and bottle. This preparation will keep two or ,three weeks, and is the better for being made a few days before it is wanted. Orangeade. Squeeze out the juice of an ,orange, pour boiling water on a little of the peel, and cover it close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, and skim it. Wlien all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup with as much more water as will make a rich drink. Strain through a jelly-bag, and ice. Orgeat. Blanch and pound three-quarters of a pound of sweet-almonds and thirty bitter ones -svith a table-spoonful of -water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water and three pints of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve half a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of water, boil, skim well, and mix with the almond water, adding two table-spoonfuls of orangeflower water and a tea-cupful of good brandy. Quince Syrup. Grate quinces, pass the jDulp through a sieve, then set it before the fire for the juice to settle and clarify ; strain, and add a pound of sugar (boiled down) to every four ounces of juice ; remove from the fire, and when cold bottle for use. A table-spoonful of this syrup will flavour a pint of water. Rasi)berry Vinegar. This is made by sqiieezing the juice of three quarts of raspberries into a quart of vinegar, and then simmering the vinegar for about a quarter of an hour with two pounds of sugar in an earthen pipkin not glazed with lead. When cold it is to be corked; and a small spoonful of this in a glassful of water makes a very cooling and refreshing di-ink. (For other ways see Raspberry Vinegar.) ' Sherry Cobbler.- Take some very fine and clean ice, break it into small pieces, fill a tumbler to within an inch of the top with it, put a table-spoonful of plain sji-up, capillaire, or anj' other flavoiu: some prefer strawberry add the quarter of the zest of a lemon and a few drops of the juice. Fill with sherry, stir it up, and let it stand for five or six minutes. Sip gently through a straw. Sodaic Powders. Take five drachms of citric or tartaric acid, pound it fine, and divide it into twelve parts, folding each in wh ite paper. Take six drachms of carbonate of soda, pound it fine, and fold it in blue pajjer. Half fill two halfpint tumblers with water ; stir into one a ])owder from the white paper, in the other one from the blue ; when the powders are quite dissolved pour one to the other, and perfect soda water will be instantaneously produced in its utmost perfection. Supreme Nectar. Put into a nine-gallon cask six pounds of moist sugar, five ounces of bruised ginger, four ounces of cream of tartar, four lemons, eight ounces of yeast, and seven gallons of boiling water. Work two or three days, strain, add brandy one pint, bung very close, and in fourteen days bottle and -wire down. Tamarind Drink. Boil three pints of water with an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three ounces of ciuTants, and two ounces of stoned raisins, till about a third has evaporated. Strain, add a bit of lemon-peel, which is to be removed in half an hour, then cool. Vinegar and Water. " It is commonly known that cold water is dangerous when used bj' SUM ( 944 ) SUP persons heated with laboxir or by any exercise ; and yet it is necessary to supply the waste and exhaustion of perspiration in some way or other. When spirits or wine are added in small quantities to the water it may be used, even if cold, with little danger; but severe labour or exercise excites a danger of fever, and that fever is increased by spirits or fermented liquor of any kind. On this account. Dr. Rush, in one of his publications, recommends that labourers in the fields, particularly at harvest-time, should aUay their thirst by water containing a small quantity of vinegar: aboxit a tea-spoonful to half a pint of water, which would have the desired effect without stimulating or increasing the heat of the body ; and he states that those labourers who have used this beverage have found themselves more refreshed and less exhausted at night than when they di-ank water with spirits. This is not a modern practice merely ; for the Romans used vinegar to mix with water for the drink of their soldiers." Summer Diet. With change of weather all sensible people change their diet. In summer fish should replace meat both at breakfast and hmcheon, while fresh salads and wellcooked fruit should be taken instead of indigestible pastry and innutritious confections. Milk and water may be taken by children and young people up to eighteen years of age, or, for those who prefer it, the milk may be combined with some natural mineral water. No more powerful stimulant should be taken than claret or sherry by those who feel they must have something more than water, while they who are wise will adopt the most simple form of diet, and avoid all unnatural extremes. Summer Fruit Salad. Take one or two kinds of freshly-gathered finely-flavoured fruit. Pick it, put it into a glass dish, and stir into it a dessert-spoonful of sherry, a dessertspoonful of water, and three table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar to each pint of fruit. Let it remain in a cool place for an hour or two, and serve with cream instead of a tart. Summer Pudding. Beat five tablespoonfuls of flour smoothly with a quarter of a pint of milk. Add gradually three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk, and boil the mixture, stirring it all the time, for five minutes. Pour it out, and let it become partially cool, then add two fresh eggs and half a tea-cupful of sugar. Beat the batter briskly for a few minutes, and stir in a tea-cupful of fresh summer fruit of any kind. Put the mixture into a buttered bowl, tie it securely in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Turn it out, and serve immediately. Send sweet sauce or powdered sugar to table with it. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. Suflficient for four or five porsons. Summer Pickle {see Pickle, Summer, for Present Use). Summer Vegetable Salad. Take half a pound of raw artichoke bottoms, half a pound of fresh cucini!b( r, and about half a head of white celery. Cut all into thin slices, the cucumber having of course been peeled before it was cut, and sprinkle a little salt over the vegetables. Cover the dish, and let it remain untouched for two hours. Drain ofi: the liquor, and add four table-spoonfuls of pickled red cabbage, or six or eight red radishes cut up small. Pour some good salad-sauce over all, toss the vegetables lightly together, and serve. Half an ounce of mixed chervil-leaves mixed with the salad will impro%-e its flavour. Superior Sauce for Flavouring Stews, &C. Take one table-spoonful of finely-grated horseradish, mix with it a tablespoonful of curry-powder, a salt- spoonful of cayenne, the grated rind of a fresh lemon, a tea-spoonful of groimd ginger, a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a salt-spoonful of celery, half a dozen pickled walnuts, and an ounce of garlic. Jlix these ingxedients thoroughly, and pom- ujion them a quart of ketchup, a pint of port, half a pint of soy, the strained juice of three lemons, and a tabie-spoonful of essence of anchovj-. Bottle the mixture, cork closel}-, and store in a warm place. Shake the bottle occasionally and also before using the sauce. It may be used at the end of a week or two, but will improve with age. Superlative Soup (Dr. Kitchiner's). Take four pounds of the shin of beef, and cut it into six pieces. Fry a large onion cut small in dripping, add the pieces of meat, and shake the pan to keep them from burning. Dredge upon them gradually six ounces of flour, and stir all well together for five minutes. Pour in gradually three quarts of boiling water. Let the liquor boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add salt and pepper and a tea-spoonfid of ground allspice. Draw the pan to the side, and simmer its contents gently for three hours and a half. Take the meat out, and serve it on a dish separately, with dressed vegetables. Serve the soup in a tureen. Time, three hours and a half to simmer the liquor. Supper Dish, French {?lee French Supper Dish). Supper or Luncheon, Apples for. Peel the apples, leaving an inch of the stalks. Put them in a saucepan, cover them vith cold water, and let them simmer gently till they are tender throughout. Take them up before they are broken, put them on a dish, sprinkle powdered sugar thickly upon them, and serve hot or cold. Cream or milk may be eaten with them. Suppers. The modern practice cf dining late has all but put an end to the hot heavy suppers which were once so much in vogue. Now-a-days supper partakes more of the nature of a light refreshment than of a solid meal, and though, when a large party has been given,, substantial viands need to be provided, they are usually served cold. This affords an excellent opportunity for the display of good taste and ingenuity, and with these and a moderate share of bright glass and china, and snowy napery, a supper-table may be laid out handsomely at a comparatively trifling cost. Nothing so much SUP ( 946 ) SUP improves the appearance of a supper-tatle as plenty of flowers. When these can be had, they should he placed not only in the centre of the table, but here and there upon it. A small vase may be placed before each guest. A supper-room should be brilhantly lighted. The table should be covered with a white cloth. The most ornamental dishes should be placed in the centre, with the smaller ones surrounding them. The colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast (care being taken that there are not too many white dishes), and the table should be neither overcrowded nor too much broken up. The dishes exactly opposite each other should correspond in shape and size. As it is important that the eye should be pleased as well as the palate, partictdar attention should be paid to the garniture of the dishes. Ai'ticles that will allow of it should be glazed and ornamented with artificial flowers, &c. Melted lard, thinned with a little salad-oil, may be used for decorating hams and tongues ; raised pies should be covered with clear aspic jelly cut into dice, and everything should be lightly and gracefully arranged. Bright parsley, scraped horseradish, cut lemon, red beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, &c., will all be needed for garniture. Sweet dishes may be ornamented ?with crackers. Precise instructions cannot of course be given as to the details of a supper- table, as these must be regulated by the means of the "host, the resources of the establishment, the size of the room, and the length and shape of the table. A list of articles suitable for supper may, however, be useful, and we subjoin one. Eoast game or poultrj', cold meats of various kinds, hams, tongues, galantines, raised pies, boiled fowls, oyster patties, sandwiches, collared eels, lobster salads, mayonnaise of salmon, ?&:c. To these may be added sweet dishes, such as creams, jellies, custards, trifles, blancmanges, cakes, tarts, puffs, preserved or dried fruits, rice, sago, &c., in various forms, compotes of fruit, fancy pastry, dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons. When the supper is a standing one, as a matter of convenience, and to facilitate operations, game and poultry should be cut up, meat sliced, and everj'thing placed so that it may be served, with as little trouble as possible. Sometimes a plate of hot soup is served to each guest at the commencement of supper, and proves a welcome refreshment. Suppers, Wholesomeness of. In the time of Elizabeth, the nobility and gentry were accustomed to dine at eleven, to sup between five and six, and go to bed at ten. It is therefore evident that any argument in favour of this meal, founded upon the healthy condition of our ancestors, must be fallacious. By supper, in modern times, we understand a late meal just before ?e ;ime. But as sleep is not favourable to every stage of digestion, it is very questionable whether retiring to rest with a full stomach can, under any circumstances, be salutarj\ During the first part of the jirocess, or that of chymification, a person so situated may perhaps sleep quietly, unless indeed the morbid distention of the stomach should impede respiration and occasion distress ; but when the food has passed out of the stomach, and the processes of chylifi64 cation and sanguification have been established, the natiu'al propensity of the body is for activity, and the invalid awakes at this period and remains in a feverish state for some hours. Upon this general principle, then, suppers are to be avoided; that is to say, hearty suppers which requu-e the active powers of the stomach for their digestion. The same objection cannot be urged against a light repast, which is generally useful to dyspeptics; and it has been truly and facetiously observed that ' ' some invalids need not put on their nightcaps if they do not first bribe their stomachs to good behaviour." An egg Lightly boiled, or a piece of dry toast, with a small quantity of white-wine negus, will often secure a tranquil night, which would otherwise be passed with restlessness. Amongst the intellectual part of the community there has ever j existed a very strong predilection in favour- of I suppers ; the labour of the day has been perj formed ; the hour is sacred to conviviality, and I the period is one which is not likely to be j interrupted by the calls of business. To those I in health some indulgence may occasionally be I allowed ; but the physician should be cautious I how he gives his sanction to their wholesomeness. The hilarity which is felt at this period I of the day must not be received as a signal for j repau'ing to the banquet, but as an indication of the sanguification of the previous meal. Dr. Paris. "Much," says Dr. Spenser Thomson, "has been said respecting the wholesomeness of eating suppers much depends on circumstances. Generally speaking, animal food once a day is sufiicient for most ; if, therefore, an individual for whom it is enough, after a sufficiently good meat-dinner, adds a superfluous meat-supper shortly before retiring to rest, there can be httle wonder if he pays the penalty in sleep disturbed by dreams and nightmare, and by a furred tongue and unrefreshing waking in the morning. This is especially the case if the superfluity is indulged in after a dinner made in the latter part of the day. If dinner is early, if much exercise is taken between that and the evening meal, and if supper is not eaten at too late an hour, many persons can take with benefit a moderate jDroportion of animal food. It certainly is better not to eat a meal heavy, either in quantity or quality, before a period of inactivity and sleep so prolonged as that of the night ; but there is no doubt that much of the bad character of supper as a meal has arisen from its being so often one of superfluity. Those to whom suppers are most injurious are the plethoric, or such as suffer from head symptoms. Some persons, however, especially dyspeptic invalids, do themselves harm by abstaining from suppers of every kind, even after the principal meal has been taken early in the day. They do this under the idea that all suppers are bad, and suffer in consequence from uneasy sensations in the stomach dunng the night and from a sense of exhaustion in the morning, both of which may be prevented by a moderate supper of light food, such as is generally found to agree best; many a dyspeptic will find his morning meal better digested after a light supper than without." SUP (946) SWE Supreme Sauce. Supreme sauce is very highly esteemed, yet cooks do not always agi-ee as to the mode of preparing it. Two methods are here given: No. 1. Take half a pint of stock which has been made with veal and chicken-bones. Thicken this with white roux, and stir it until it is smooth and coats the spoon. Take equal portions of parsley, cress, and tarragon-leaves. Put these into scalding water for two minutes; then drain and mince them finely. Stii- a dessei-t-spoonful of the chopped herbs into the sauce, and add salt and white pepper. Carefully add a dessert-spoonful of strained lemonjuice to the sauce before serving. No. 2. Put the bones of a dressed chicken into a saucepan with an onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pour upon them a pint of good veal stock, and simmer this till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, thicken it with white roux, and boil it till the sauce coats the spoon. Pour it out, stir into it a small slice of fresh butter until dissolved, and add a flavouring of milk of almonds. This sauce is generally poured over the fish or meat vsdth which it is served. Susie's Pudding [see Aunt Susie's Pudding). Sussex Pudding. jMix a pinch of salt ?with a pound of flour. Make it into a stiff paste with cold water, and knead it well. Roll it to the shape of a bolster, tie it in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly for an hour. Take it up, cut it into slices the third of an inch thick, and put these into the dripping-tin under a roasting joint. When they are slightly browned and soaked ?with dripping, serve them with the meat. Time to soak in the dripping, about twenty minutes. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2d. Swan. Two or three hundred years ago the swan was looked upon as an elegant fashionable dish. Now swans are but seldom dressed for the table, though their flesh is said to be both tender and dehcious. Occasionally at special dinners a swan makes part of the bill of fare, and is always highly appreciated. The young birds or cygnets only are chosen. If any feel inclined to experiment upon this imusual dish, they will find, in addition to the following recipe, full directions given under the heading Cygnet. Swan, Potted. Skin the swan, and take out all the bones ; cut the flesh into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar. Pound also with it some clean fat bacon, adding a little at a time. Beat this up with the flesh of the swan, so as to incorporate the two like an amalgam. When the mass has assumed a light flesh-colour, no more bacon need be added. Contiaue to beat the meat until it is of the consistence of dough. Season it with salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, all finely powdered and well mixed and beaten up with it. Put the mass now into a baking-pan with a good glassful of port wine and the same quantity of water ; cover the top with two pounds of cold fresh butter. Cover the pan -with a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake it in an oven heated as for bread. When it is done, take off the crust, turn out the meat into a dish, gently squeeze out the moisture, and put it into pots. When cold pour over it clarified butter. Swans' Eggs [see Eggs, Swans'). Swedish Salad. Take a couple of pickled herrings, cut off the heads and tails, remove the bones, and divide the flesh into dice. Mis with these two apples, peeled and sliced, two large boiled potatoes cut into dice, an equal quantity of cold roast beef, and a little sliced beetroot. Add a table-spoonful of sliced gherkins, a table-spoonful of capers, a table-spoonful of shred tarragon-leaves, two table-spoonfuls of chopped chervil, and a hard-boiled a g finely minced. Season the salad rather highly with pepi er, salt, oil, and vinegar. Put the whole in a salad-bowl and serve. A dozen or more freshlyopened oysters may, if liked, be laid upon the top of the salad, and various additions may be made to it. Picked shrimps, filleted anchovies, dressed Brussels sprouts, olives, curled celery, and green onions may all bo introduced at discretion, and any other kind of dried or pickled fish may be used instead of herrings, if preferred. Sweet and Ornamental Dishes. As a little experience is necessary before sweet and ornamental dishes can be successfully manufactured, the housekeeper should take iato consideration the question whether, where one or two dishes only are occasionally required, it is not better worth her while to purchase them at the confectioner's than to attempt making them at home. An inefficient cook might quickly waste over failures ingredients the cost of which would more than pay for the purchase of ready-made dishes. When these preparations are frequently used, however, there is no doubt that it is much more economical to prepare them at home, and many ladies, and young ladies especially, would do well to acquire the art (for it is nothing less) of preparing delicacies which would, if successful, reflect much credit on their taste and skUl. In following the recipes given in this book it must be remembered that isinglass and gelatine vary so much in strength and quahty, that experiment alone can determine the exact quantity which should be used. If the jellies or creamsare to be put into one large mould, the preparation will need to be stiffer than if they are to be put into two or thi-ee small moulds, and it is always well to test a small quantity, by putting it into a cup or glass, to see if it will become stiff enough to turn out in a shape. If it does not do so, a little more isinglass should be added. When convenient it is always well to set the moulds in ice tiU they are wanted. Moulds in which creams or jellies are to be set should always be damped before the preparation is put into them. Metal moulds will spoil the appearance of red jellies, therefore earthenware ones are much to be preferred. Sweetbread Kromeskies. Prepare the sweetbreads as for croquettes [see Sweetbreads, Croquettes of) . Let the preparation get quite cold, then divide it into equal portions, two inches long and one inch broad. Cover each one SWE (947) SWE of these with cold hoiled fat hacon which has been cut into thin shces of a si e that ?will just envelop the mince. Set these on a dish in a cool place till wanted. Dip them sejiarately into frying batter, and fry them in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them on a wii'c sieve covered with jiaper, pile them on a napkin, then garnish with fried parsley, and serve immediately. Time to fry the kromeskies, three or four minutes. Sweetbreads. Sweetbreads should be chosen as fresh as possible, as they very quickly spoil. There are two sorts heart sweetbreads and throat sweetbreads. The heart sweetbreads are the best, and also the most expensive. In whatever way sweetbreads are to be dressed, they should iirst be soaked in cold water for a couple of hours. They should then be put into boiling- water and simmered gently for five or ten minutes, according to size, and when taken up they should be laid in cold water. Sweetbreads vary considerably in price, according to the time of the year. They fire quite as frequently employed as ingredients in sundry made dishes, such as vol-au-vents, ragouts, &c., as served alone, and as they do not possess a very decided natural flavour they need to be accompanied by a highly-seasoned sauce, or they will taste rather insipid. They are in full season from May to August. Sweetbreads (a la Dauphine). Take two perfectly fresh sweetbreads. Let them soak in cold water for two hours, changing the water occasionally. Put them into boilingwater, and let them simmer gently until they are finn without being hard. Put them in cold water for a few minutes, dry them, and lard them evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Take a small stewpan which has belonging to it a lid to bold live embers. Butter the inside, and put into it a large carrot sliced and a moderate-sized onion. Lay one or two slices of bacon on the vegetables, then put in the sweetbreads, together with half a pint of strong bro-wn gravy. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and stew with a gentle fire under them and plenty of heat on the top. Baste frequently with the gra\y until the sweetbreads are lightly browned. Add more gravy as it is necessary. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, put them on a dish -with the bacon under them, strain the gravy upon them, and send dressed sorrel or endive or tomato sauce to table with them. Time to stew the sweetbreads, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient for a small dish. Sweetbreads (a la Maitre d' Hotel). Soak, blanch, cool, and trim the sweetbreads in the usual way. Lay them in a saucepan, and barely cover them with good veal gra-vy. Let them stew gently until done enough. Lay them on a hot dish, and have the sauce ready prepared to pour over them. This sauce may be made as follows : Take half a pint of good melted butter. Let it simmer a few minutes, and skim it well, then stir into it a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, the strained juice of a small lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Take the sauce from the fire, let it cool a minute, stir into it until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter, and it will be ready for use. Time to simmer the sweetbread, three-quaiters of an hour. Sufficient, a fine large sweetbread for two persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. Sweetbreads and Palates, Pie of. Take an equal number of sweetbreads and palates, and prepare them both in the usual way {see Sweetbreads and Ox Palates). Let them stew till tender in good brown gra-vy, and lay them in a dish. Let the sauce cool a little, stir into it the well-pounded yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and pour it upon the meat. Cover the dish with good pastry, and bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is done enough the pie wiU be ready for serving. Sweetbreads and Palates Stewed. Prepare both palates and sweetbreads in the usual way. Cut them into moderate - sized pieces, dredge flour upon them, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Put them into a saucepan, and pour upon them as much of the liquor in which they are stewed as will barely cover them. Thicken the sauce with brown thickening, season with pepper, salt, grated lemon-rind and nutmeg, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the meat in a dish, and pour the sauce over it. If liked, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar or strained lemonjuice may be added at the last moment. Time to stew, about half an hour. Sweetbreads (au Gratin). Second dressing. Take the remains of sweetbreads which have been stewed in white or bro-wn sauce. Put them in a pie-dish, pour the cold sauce over them, and cover the surface with finely-grated bread-crumbs. Lay little pieces of butter here ! and there on the top, and put the dish in a I brisk oven. When it is hot throughout it is ! done enough. If the top is not brightly browned, a salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over it to make it so. Sweetbreads, Baked. Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for two hoiirs, and change the water once or twice dm-ing the time. Throw them into boiUng water, and let them simmer gently for five minutes or more, till they are firm and round, but not hard. Take them up, drain them, and throw them into cold water to cool. Brush them over in every part -with beaten egg, roU them in bread-crvmibs, sprinkle clarified butter upon them, and bread-crumb them again. Put them in a baking-tin -with about two ounces of butter, and bake in a well-heated oven ; baste them till they are done enough and brightly browned. Take as many shces of hot toast as there are sweetbreads. Put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon them, pour brown gra\y round, but not over them, and serve immediately. Time to bake from half to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost of sweetbreads, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Broiled. Take moderate sized sweetbreads and prepare them in the. ! usual way. Stew them in. good stock till they I are done enough. Then drain them, and press 1 them between two dishes tiU cold. Split them SWE (948 ) SWE in halves and trim them neatly; brush them over with butter, and broil them over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a plate with clarified butter upon it near the gridiron, and keep dipping the sweetbreads in it, turning them frequently. When they are brightly browned all over they are done enough. Dish the sUces in a circle, and send brown sauce flavoui-ed with lemon-juice to table in a tureen. Time to Btew the sweetbreads, about half an hour. Sweetbreads, Browned. Soak, blanch, and stew the sweetbreads in as much good and nicely-flavoured stock as will barely cover them. When they have sinunered about half an hoirr, take thorn up, and put them into a round saucepan just large enough to hold them with a good sHce of fresh butter which is melted and just beginning to brown. Turn the sweetbreads over and over till they are equally and brightly browned in every part. Keep them hot by the side of the stove. Thicken the stock in which they were boiled with brown thickening. Flavour with mushroom ketchup and lemon- juice, and add a table- spoonful of light Avine. Place the sweetbreads on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with toasted sippets, brain cakes, forcemeat balls, or any little adjuncts which are suitable, and can be easily procured. Probable cost of sweetbreads, Is. 6d. to os. Sweetbreads, Cold, To Re-dress. Cut the cold sweetbreads into neat pieces. Stew them gently in strong brown gravy till they are quite hot throughout ; place them on a dish, pom- the gi'avy over them, and garnish with fried sipi ets. Sweetbreads, Cotelets of. Procure the sweetbreads as fresh as possible. Soak them for an hour. Throw them into boiling ?water for five minutes, let them cool, then simmer them in rich, well-seasoned gravy. Leave them in the liquor till cold. Cut them into pieces an inch square, put them on skewers alternately with a little piece of bacon or a piece of ready-dressed calf's udder, all being made as nearly as possible of the same shape and size. Dip them twice into egg and breadcrumbs. Pat them into shape with a knife, and fry in hot fat tiU they are lightly browned. Send white or brown Italian sauce to table in a tureen. Sometimes bearded oysters are put upon the skewers with the sweetbreads and bacon. Time, half an hour to simmer the sweetbreads. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Croquettes of. Take a cold dressed sweetbread, cut it into quarterinch dice, and mix with it its bulk in mushrooms which have been cut in the same way. Stir both together over a gentle fire in some very thick white sauce, and pour the mixture upon a dish. When quite cold, divide the mixture into portions of an equal size, roU these to the shape of balls or corks, dip them in egg beaten up with pepper, salt, and oil, and roll them in bread-crumbs. Fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned, drain them thoroughly, serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time, ten minutes to fry the croquettes. Sweetbreads, Croquettes of (another way). Take a cold dressed sweetbread, cut it up into small pieces, and mix with it half its weight in finely-grated bread-crumbs. Season the mixture with salt, cayenne, grated lemonrind, and grated nutmeg. Put it into a saucepan with as much cream or milk as will moisten the crumbs, and stir briskly over a clear fire for ten minutes. Spread the preparation on a dish, and let it get quite cold. Form it into equalsized portions, roll these to the shape of corks or balls, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them before the fire, and serve as before. Time, ten minutes to fry the croquettes. Sweetbreads, Cutlets of. Soak and blanch two or more fine fresh sweetbreads in the usual way. Let them sinuner in nicelyflavoured stock for half an hour, and let them cool in the liquor. Drain and diy them in a cloth, and cut them into slices an inch and a quarter across. Tfip them into beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, and again into bread-crumbs. Pat them into shape,, and fry them in hot fat tiU they are brightly browned. Drain them, pile them on a dish, and pour round, but not upon them, good brown, gravy flavoured with mushroom and lemonjuice, or with a glassful of white wine, or white sauce may be served with them. If liked the cutlets may be placed upon a little piece of fried bread of the same shape and size as they are, or slices may be cut from a dressed tongue, and these may be egged, breaded, and fried like the slices of sweetbread. When the latter plan is adopted, the sweetbread cutlets should be laid upon the slices of tongue. Time to fry the cutlets, three or four minutes. Sweetbreads, Cutlets of. Fricasseed. Prepare and fry the cutlets according to the directions that have been already given. Thicken a small quantity of nicely-seasoned gravy with roux or brown thickening. Flavour it with mushroom ketchup and lemon- juice, and add a table-spoonful of sherry or madeira. Put in the fried slices, let them simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve altogether on a dish. Sweetbreads, Pried. Soak the sweetbreads for an hour, plunge them into boilingwater for five minutes, and throw them into cold water till cool. Cut them in slices, egg and bread-crumb them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browTied on both sides. Drain them, and then dish on toast, pouring cucumber sauce or maitre d'hotel sauce upon them. Time to fry the slices, about ten minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Fried, Simple Method. Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads. Dry them, cut them in slices, and dredge flour upon them. Fry them in hot fat tiU they are nicely browned, and pour good nicely-flavoured brown gravy over them. This is one of the most simple methods of dressing SWE ( 949 ) SWE sweetbreads. Time, ten minutes to fry the slices. Sweetbreads, Larded (a la Financiere). Soak four sweetbreads, boil them quickly till they are firm but not at all hard, cool them, then lard them evenly and thickly with thru strips of fat bacon. Butter a baking-dish, and spread a layer of sliced carrots, onions, and celery at the bottom. Lay the sweetbreads upon the vegetables, and pour round them as much stock as will barely come up to the larding. Put them in a sharp oven, and bake until done enough, basting them frequently with the liquor. When they are done enough, and the smiace is brightly browned, dish them as follows : Put a croustade in a dish, and fill it with Toulouse or financiere ragout. Place the sweetbreads against the sides of the croustade, and garnish the dish as prettily as possible. If liked, Toulouse ragout may be used for the croustade instead of financiere ragout, and then the dish becomes Sweetbread a la Toulouse. The croustade may be made as follows : Take an oval loaf one day old. Cut oflE the round top, and scoop out the crumb of the loaf, leaving three-quarters of an inch of bread all round, and at the bottom. Pare away the crust and dip the case into oiled butter. Put it in the oven till it begins to harden, then again dip it in butter, and place it again in the oven till it acquires a little colour, when it wiU be ready for use. Traie to bake the sweetbreads, about half an hour. Sweetbreads, Minced, in Paper Cases. Take some cold dresssed sweetbreads, and cut them into dice. Take an equal quantity of mushrooms and cut them up also. Stew the mushrooms in butter, and add a slice of fat bacon, the sweetbreads, and a little parsley, pepper, and salt. One or two shallots may be added if liked. Simmer over a gentle fire till the mushrooms are done enough. Drain off the fat, take out the parsley, and place the preparation in small paper cases which have been thoroughly oiled. Sprinkle a pinch of savoury herbs on the top, and cover each one with finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put the cases in the oven for a moment that they may be thoroughly heated, squeeze into each a few drops of lemon-juice, add a spoonful of rich gravy, and serve very hot. Dish the minced sweetbreads on a napkin. Time to simmer the mixture, about a quarter of an hour. Sweetbreads, Patties of . Cold dressed sweetbread, if cut into quarter-inch dice and prepared according to the directions already given for making sweetbread croquettes, may be used for filling small patties or vol-au-vent cases. They should be put into the oven for a minute or two to make them quite hot, and served on a hot napkin. This mince may also be enclosed in a circular piece of pastry of the size of a crown piece, and fried in hot fat till the pastry is sufficiently cooked. They should then be drained and piled on a napkin. Sweetbreads, Pie of. Take two or more fresh sweetbreads. Soak, blanch, and cool them, then cut each one into three pieces, and simmer them in white stock with about two dozen mushrooms. Let them simmer for a quarter of an hour. Lay them in a dish, put the mushrooms among them, and also six or eight veal forcemeat balls, the green tops of a quarter of a hundi-ed sticks of asparagus, and the hard-boiled yolks of thi-ee or four eggs. Thicken the gravy with white thickening, add pepper and salt if required, and pour it over the meat. Lay slices of fat bacon on the top of the meat, cover all with good pastry, and bake the pie in a moderately-heated oven. Time, according to size. Probable cost of sweetbreads, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Ragout of. Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads, then simmer them in nicely-seasoned stock for half an hour. Let them cool, cut them into pieces about an inch square, and haH an inch thick, dry them perfectly, and flour them ; then ? fry them in butter till they are brightly browned. Put into a saucepan a pint of stock, add a sliced onion and a sliced carrot, both fried, a Little piece of bacon-rind, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a little salt and cayenne, and two allspice. Add a spoonful of brown thickening, and simmer the sauce for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and put the browned sweetbreads into it for a few minutes. Place them on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Send rice boUed as for curry, or a little macaroni to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour, exclusive of the time taken in preparing the sweetbreads for dressing. Sweetbreads, Roast. Soak the sweetbreads for a couple of hours, plunge them into boiling water, boil them quickly for five or ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. Simmer them gently for twenty minutes, dry them, dip them in clarified butter, and cover them with highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Put a small skewer through them, and tie them on a spit. Roast them gently before a clear fire, and baste industriously during the process. Serve on a hot dish, which should be garnished with parsley and cut lemon. Brown sauce or mushroom sauce may be sent to table with the sweetbreads. If liked, the sweetbreads can be roasted in a Dutch oven before the fire, instead of being tied to a spit. They wiU need to be basted liberally, and to be turned about that they may be equally browned. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the sweetbreads ; half an hour to roast them. Sweetbreads, Stewed. Soak two sweetbreads for an hour. Boil them quickly for ten minutes, and put them into cold water for twenty minutes. Lay them in a saucepan, pour over them three-quarters of a pint of white stock, and add a little pepper and salt and a small pinch of jiowdered mace. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, and put them in the oven to keep hot. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, let it boil, and when it is smooth stir in four table-spoonfuls of cream. Put the sweetbreads on a dish. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice to the sauce, and pour it over. Time to stew the sweetbreads, half to three SWE ( 950) SWE quarters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Sweetbreads, Vol-au-Vent of. Soak two large hne sweetbreads in water for a couple of hours. Boil them quickly for ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. When cool, dry them perfectly, cut them into small pieces, and dredge flour upon them. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the pieces of sweetbread, and add the third of a pint of white stock, the strained juice of a lemon, two tablespooiifuls of sherry or madeira, a bunch of sweet herbs, the thin rind of half a lemon, half a blade of mace, two cloves, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let the sauce boil up once, skim it, and let the sweetbreads simmer gently until done enough. Take them up, strain the sauce, and mix with it gradually the yolks of two eggs beaten up with four tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil. Make a vol-au-vent case four inches in diameter. Bake it until done enough, scoop out the centre, and fill it with the mince. Serve the vol-auvent very hot on a neatly-folded napkin. This dish will be much improved if a few mushrooms and browned potatoes are added to the preparation. Clean and skin eighteen or twenty button mushrooms, put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and add the strained juice of a lemon and a little salt. Let them boil quickly for ten or twelve minutes. Make a dozen small balls of mashed potatoes, dip these in egg, and make them hot in the oven. Fill the vol-au-vent case (which, if the mushrooms and potatoes are added, will need to be six inches in diameter) with layers of sweetbread, potato balls, and mushrooms. Pour the sauce over all, and serve. Sweetbreads, White. Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads in the usual way. Put into a saucepan of a size to hold them conveniently, but no larger, as much white stock as will barely cover the sweetbreads. Thicken this with white roux or with a little flour and butter, add a bunch of parsley, a small onion, and a httle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let it siramer two or three minutes, then add two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Put in the sweetbreads, and let them simmer in the sauce until done enough. Take the herbs out of the sauce, let it cool a minute, then mix a spoonful of it vith the yoUc of an egg. Add this gradually to the rest of the sauce, stir it until it is smooth, then put the sweetbreads on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with parsley and lemon, or with a few mushrooms. If liked, the egg yolks may be omitted, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice may be added to the sauce, which should be rather highly seasoned. White dishes should not be insipid; though delicate, they should be piquant. Time, half an hour to simmer the sweetbreads. Probable cost, Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient, one sweetbread for two persons. Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. Soak, blanch, and trim two fine sweetbreads, and lard them evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Slice a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, and a few sticks of celery, and fry these vegetables in hot fat till they are lightly browned. . Drain away the fat, put the sweetbreads upon the vegetables, and add as much stock as will barely cover them, together with a little salt and cayenne, a small lump of sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a smaU blade of mace, four allspice, and half a wine-glassful of brandy. Let the sauce boil quickly, skim carefully, and then simmer the sweetbreads till done enough. Take them up, put a little piece of fresh butter on each, and place them in the oven to keep them hot. Put into the gravy a dozen small mushrooms which have been skinned and cleaned, and add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a little brown thickening. Put the sweetbreads again into the sauce, and let them simmer for ten or fifteen minutes. Serve on a hot dish with the sauce poured roimd them. Time to simmer the sweetbreads, half to three-quarters of an horn-. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sweetbreads with TrujBfles. Prepare the sweetbreads in the usual manner, flour them, and bake in a gentle oven till they are lightly browned. Baste frequently. Whilst they are baking, prepare the sauce to be served with them as follows : Peel half a dozen truffles, and cut them into slices about the third of an inch thick. Put these in a saucepan with a large wine-glassful of marsala, the strained juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Let them simmer gently a few minutes, then add a quarter of a pint of good stock. Thicken the gravy with brovvTi thickening, and let it boil tQl smooth. Put in the sweetbreads, let them simmer twenty minutes longer, and serve veiy hot. Time, altogether, one honr. Probable cost of sweetbreads. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweet Creams. A variety of rich and delicate preparations are included under this denomination. In all, cream is the principal article which enters into their composition. These dishes generally take their distinctive name from the flavoui-ing ingredients, and it is under these headings that they must be looked for. Sweet Herbs. The sweet herbs most frequently used in cookery are parsley, thyme, marjoram, sage, basil, savory, and mint. When they are not stored for use thej' may be purchased of the herbalist or greengrocer, or they may be bought di-ied and in bottles of the grocer or Italian warehouseman. When it is reconunended that a bunch of sweet herbs is to be used, it is to be understood that a handful of parsley, a sprig of thjnne, and a bay-leaf arc to be taken. To these a bunch of sweet marjoram and a little piece of garlic about the size of a pea may be added. "\ATien these ingredients are to be stewed in soups or sauces they should be tied securely in a bunch with the" parsley outside. When thus fastened together they are often spoken of as a fa;;ot or a bouquet garni. A properly-made fago' is about thi'ee inches long. Sweet Herbs, Omelet of. Prepa: : the omelet in the usual way. {See Omelet, SWE (951 ) SWI and Principles of Cookery, page iv.) Before frying it, stir into it a very small quantity of chopped sweet herbs. Parsley, chervil, and chives are the herbs most frequently chosen. Onions or shallots, thyme, and sage, may be introduced if liked. Sweet Jellies. These preparations, though elegant in appearance, and when nicely flavoui-ed delicious to the taste, are not really so nourishing as thej were at one time thought to be. CaK's-foot jelly is good, certainly, but isinglass and gelatine do not possess much value in the sick room. These jellies constitute, however, pretty ornamental dishes, which are useful, and exceedingly convenient. No difficulty need be experienced in making jelly clear and bright, if the instructions given in Calf's Foot Jelly, and Isinglass, and Gelatine JeUy, are closely followed. Sweet Jelly. Soak an ounce of best gelatine in water for an hour. Drain it, and pour upon it half a pint of boiling water, then stir it until dissolved. Add the juice and peel of two lemons, and six ounces of loaf sugar, together with a large wine-glassful of wine or any approved liqueur, and as much cold water as will make up the quantity to one quart. Beat the whites of two eggs to froth. Briskly stir them with the crushed shells of the eggs into the liqueur, which should be almost cold. Bring it slowly to the boil, and let it simmer gently without touching it for ten minutes. Take it oif the fire, and let it stand to settle for ten minutes, then strain it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear and bright. When it is again cool, put it into one oi- more moulds, and let it stand in a cool place till it is stiff. When it is wanted, plunge it for a single instant into boiling water, tui-n it upon a glass dish, and serve. Time, eight or ten hours wiU be needed to stiffen the jelly if it is not set upon ice. Probable cost, Is. 2d., exclusive of the wine or liqueur. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Sweetmeats, Brown. Take the remains of any kind of candied preparation. Pound it well, and pass it through a sieve. Mix with it beaten eggs to form a stiff paste, and flavoiu" this with any suitable flavouring. Work a little flour into the paste. Poll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into .shapes, place these on white paper, and bake in a gentle oven till they are stiff. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sweet Patties. Sweet patties may be made of various ingTcdients, and in a variety of ways {see Patties, Preparation of). The mince to fill them will be excellent if made as follows : Take the meat of a boiled calf's-foot one v hich has been stewed down for stock may be utilised in this way drain it well, mince it finely, and mix with it a tabic- spoonful of finely-shred suet, three ajjples, pared, cored, and chopped small, a spoonful of candied peel chopped small, the pounded yolks of two hardboiled eggs, the strained juice of a lemon, and a Little of the grated rind : sugar to taste, and add a small glassful of wine. Put this mince into pastry, and bake the patties in the usual way. Sweet Pickles {see Pickles, Sweet, American). Sweet Sauce for Puddings. Take half a pint of good melted butter made with milk, sweeten it, and flavour with cinnamon, grated nutmeg, or bitter almonds. Serve very hot. Two table-spoonfuls of cream stirred into the sauce at the last moment will help to enrich it. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Sweet Sauce for Venison. Dissolvetwo table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly, and stir into it a glassful of port or claret. Do not let the sauce boil. Or stir two or three goodsized Itunps of sugar into a quarter of a pint of venison gravy until dissolved. Add a large glassful of port or claret, and serve. Sweet Spice, Pastrycook's. This is made by mixing together two parts of sugar, one part of cassia, one part of nutmeg, one part of mace, and the same of cloves. Swiss Apple Pudding {sec Apple, Swiss, Pudding). Swiss Cocoa-nut Pudding. Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add two ounces of grated cocoa-nut, six ounces of strawberry or any other jam, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Beat two eggs with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or three table-spoonfuls of milk. Pour this liquor over the pudding, and let it stand to soak for an hour. Butter a mould thickly. Beat the pudding tiU the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and put it into the mould. Tie it in a cloth, plunge it into fastboiling water, and boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out, sift powdered sugar thickly upon it, and serve. Time to boil, three hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Swiss Condensed Cream {see ililk. Condensed Swiss). Swiss Cream. Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons and two or three penny sponge cakes, or use a mixture of macaroons and ratafias. Lay the crumbs in a glass dish. Poui- over them a glassful of sherry, and spread a spoonful or two of jam upon them. If a plain dish is required, the sheny or the jam, or both, may be omitted. Simmer the thin rind of half a lemon, or a little piece of vanilla, in half a cupful of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured. Add a pint of cream and as much, sugar as wiU sweeten it pleasantly. Mix a table-sj oonful of corn-flour smoothly with a little cold milk, and add this gradually to the rest. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it boils; pour it out, and stir it again _ till it is almost cold. Add the juice of a lemon, and pour the cream over the cakes in the dish. Ornament the top with bright-coloured jelly or jam, or with strips of angelica. If liked, two table-spoonfuls of arrov\a-oot may be substituted for the corn-flour, or a table-spoonful of flour even may be used. The cream should stand in SWI (952) SYL a cool place three or four hours before it is wanted. Swiss Milk {see Cream). Swiss Pudding, Plain. Take half a dozen large baking apples, pared, cored, and sliced, and half a pound of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom with a layer of bread-crumbs. Add a layer of sliced apples, and sprinkle over these a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind, and a large spoonful of moist sugar. Fill the dish with alternate layers of bread-crumbs and apples, and i let crumbs form the uppermost as well as the lowest layer. Place little pieces of butter here and there on the top of the pudding, and pour j half a cupful of water and the juice of the i lemon upon it. Bake in a moderate oven, j When the surface of the pudding is brightly i browned, and the apples have fallen, it is done j enough. Serve with finely-powdered sugar. I If liked, six ounces of beef suet may be substi- i tuted for the butter, and the ingredients may be ! mixed thoroughly, put into a buttered mould, i and boiled instead of being baked. Time to ! bake, about two hours, less or more according to the quality of the apples; to boil, four hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four ?or five persons. Swiss Trifle. Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias, and put them into a glass dish. Pour a glassful of brandy upon them, and let them soak for a while. Sweeten a pint of cream, and flavour with lemon-rind or any suitable flavouring. Put it into a saucepan, and stir into it a table-spoonful of ground rice which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Let it boil gently till it begins to thicken, and stir it aU the time. Pour it out, and when it is almost cold add the strained juice of two lemons. Pour the mixture upon the cakes. Stick blanched almonds into it, and let it stand an hour or two before it is used. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the milk with the rice. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sydney Smith's Becipe for Salad {see Poet's Recipe for Salad). Syllabubs. Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon in a pint of sherry or madeira, and let it remain all night. Sweeten it well, and add three table-spoonfuls of brandy, a pint and a half of rich cream beaten up with the white of an egg, and the juice of the lemon. Beat the mixture to froth. As it rises place it in the glasses, pile it as high as possible, and place it in a cool place. In a little time the syllabubs ! will get firm, and settle into a highly -flavoured preparation covered with snowy froth. If liked, melted red-currant or black-currant jelly may be mixed with half the cream before it is whipped, and this will make the syllabubs contrast in colour. Syllabubs should lae made the day before they are wanted. Syllabubs, Birthday (see Birthday Syllabubs). Syllabubs, Common. Put four ounces of pounded sugar into a bowl, and add the rind of a lemon, a grated nutmeg, half a pint of sweet wine, and half a pint of sherry. Mix all thoroughly till the sugar is dissolved. Pour in with a tea-pot or spouted jug held at a good height a pint and a half of wann milk. Serve the syllabub cold. A little pounded cinnamon and clouted cream may be laid on the top. Sometimes cider is used instead of wine, and then a little brandy should certainly be added. Syllabubs, Devonshire {see Devonshire Syllabubs). Syllabubs, Everlasting (see Everlasting SyUabubs). Syllabubs in Glasses. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar iuto a small punch-bowl, and pour upon it the strained juice of a large fresh lemon. Stir the mixture briskly, and add a tumblerful of port, a tumblerful of sherry, and half a tumblerful of brandy. Add half a nutmeg grated, place the bowl imder the cow, and fill it tiU it froths high in the bowl. In serving put a little curd into each glass, fill it with whey, and place a spoonful of thick cream on the top. Syllabubs, Large. Put half a pound of powdered white sugar into a bowl, and strain upon it the juice of two lemons. Add the grated rind of one lemon, a glassful of madeira, a glassful of sweet wine, a little powdered cinnamon, and as much ratafia as will flavour the mi.xture pleasantly. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add a quart of cream, and whisk the preparation to a froth. Lay some macaroons in the bottom of a dish. As the froth rises pile it upon the biscuits. Keep it in a cool place. This syllabub ought to be made a couple of days before it is wanted. It will keep five or six days. Syllabubs, Lemon {see Lemon Syllabubs). Syllabubs, London {see London Syllabubs) . Syllabubs, Simple. Take a pint of cream, and put to it the whites of three eggs well beaten, add the juice of one lemon, three spoonfuls of wine, grated lemon-peel, and sugar according to taste. Have the glasses ready with a little wine in each of them ; whisk the cream, and as the froth rises fill the glasses. Syllabubs, Solid. Take one quart of cream, one quart of white wine, the juice of two lemons, the grated peel of a lemon, and sugar to taste. Mix these ingredients, mill them to a froth, then take off the scum as it rises, and place it to drain on a hair sieve. Half fill the glasses with the scum, and heap the froth on it. Syllabubs that will keep a week or ten days. Put the grated rind and strained juice of three lemons upon a pound of powdered sugar. Add a pint and a half of good wine, and a quart of thick cream. A little brandy may be added or not. Whisk the mixture patiently one way till it is well frothed. As the froth rises, take it off gently, and pile it in glasses. Sprinkle some hundreds and thousands 'laLe X F.WaIla:Iith.l8.Hattari C-aiam (, Chartreuse of Partridges (Garnished.) 2, Casserole & Rabbit Scollops 3,IV.accaron! Timbale & Rabbit 4, Puree of Game z, Rice Casserole. Garnished.) SYL ( 953 ) SYR on the top, and keep the syllabubs in a cool place. Syllabubs under the Cow. Take a large china bowl a punch bowl is the most suitable for the purpose put into it half a pound of lump sugar, the strained juice of a lemon, a pint of sherry, a glassful of brandy, and three-quarters of a pint of cream beaten up with white of egg. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, and put a dozen ratafias into it. Take it to the dairj-maid, and let her milk the cow into the bowl until it is quite full. Put it away, and let it remain untouched till the following day. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, and serve. Syllabubs, Whipped. Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a lemon, put to it half a pint of thick cream, and sweeten to taste. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a glassful of madeira wine or French brandy. Mill it to a froth with a chocolate mill, take off the froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair sieve. Fill one half of the glass with red wine, then lay the froth as high as possible ; but take care that it is well drained in the sieve, otherwise it will mix with the wine, and the syllabub be spoiled. Syrup and Wine Sauce for Rich Sweet Puddings. Take a quarter of a pint of good melted butter. Stir into this half a quarter of a pint of dissolved red-currant jelly and half a quarter of a pint of port. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, and pour it upon and around the pudding. Sjrrup Clarified for Jellies. Put two pounds of refined sugar into a well-tinned saucepan with a quart of water. "When the sugar is dissolved, stir in briskly the white of an egg beaten up with a spoonful of cold water. Beat the sj'rup thoroughly, let it boil, and remove the scum as it rises. Strain it thi'ough a sieve, and it will be fit for use. Syrup Clarified for Jelly (another way). iSce Jelly, Syrup Clarified for. Syrup Clarified for Keeping. Allow half a pint of water to a pound of refined loaf I sugar, and the white of an egg to four pounds I of sugar. Break up the sugar, and pour the water upon it. Stir it untU dissolved. Beat the white of egg, and stir it into the sjTup while it is still cold. Let it heat gradually, removing the scum as it rises. When perfectly clear, strain it into a napkin, and keep it in closely- stoppered bottles for use. This syrup will keep for some weeks. If less sugar were used than the quantity named the syrup would ferment. Syrup Clarified with Isinglass. Allow half a pint of water to each pound of sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of Russian isinglass to six pounds of sugar. Pour the water over the sugar, and let it stand till dissolved. Dissolve the isinglass in boiling water, and add it to the syrup. Let the mixture cool, then put it on the fire, and as the scum rises remove it. When quite clear it will be readv 65 for use. Syrup thus prepared may be used for preserving fruit. Syrup, Custard and {sec Custard and Syrup) . Syrup for Compotes. The quantity of sugar used in preparing sjTup for compotes must vary with the natui-e of the fruit. Very acid fruit will of course need more sugar than luscious fruit. For a good many kinds of frui.t half a pound of sugar may be boiled in threequarters of a pint of water. Syrup thus made is not intended to keep. To make it, dissolve the sugar in the water, and boil it till clear. Remove the scum as it rises. Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. Syrup for Compotes (another waj ). See Compotes, Syrup for. Syrup for Liqueurs. Put a pint of water in a preserving-pan over the fire. "When it boils, drop gradually into it half a pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, let it boil up, skim it, and pour it out. \ len cold it will be fit for use. Syrup of Apples (a German recipe). Peel a dozen fine rennets, cut them into sKces as thin as possible, put them into a jar with a pound and a half of sugar and six spoonfuls of water ; put the lid on, and place it in a bain-marie for two hours, keeping the water always boiling : be careful from time to time to move the jar, but do not take it out of the water, because by coming into the cold air it might crack. When it has boiled two hours let the fire go out, and leave the jar in the bain-marie till nearly cold. When the juice is almost cold, flavour it with lemon- juice, adding a spoonful of essence of lemon, a spoonful of essence of cinnamon, orange-flower water, or anything you please t? flavour it with. If it is not quite clear, let it stand for two or three hours more, then pour it gently into bottles, taking great care not to disturb the sediment at the bottom. A. von Kochhc'im. Syrup of Barberries. Boil a quart of water, tlu'ow into it a pound of very rijje barbeiTies picked from the stalks; after boiling up a few times let them infuse till the following day ; then boil two pounds and a half of sugar to pearling ; set the barberries again on the fire, and after boihng them up three or four times strain them ; add the juice to the sugar, and put the whole on the fire. Skim the preparation the whole time of boiling, which must be about twenty minutes. When done bottle it. This syrup seldom ferments. Syrup of Cowslips. Upon every gallon of cowslip flowers with their white part cut ofl[ pour a quart of boiling water. Put the pan containing them over a very slow fire, where it must simmer gently during six hours. Let it stand till next day, then replace it over a good fire until it reaches the boiling point, but before ebullition commences remove it from the fire. Squeeze out the flowers as hard as you possibly can, and add the same quantity of frcsl; flowers. Make the preparation boil; but th i moment ebullition begins, replace it on the slow fire, and let it simmer again for six hours. SYR (954) SYR Again let it stand till next day, when having heated it as before, but without boiling, squeeze out the flowers while hot, and to every pint of the expressed juice add two pounds of sugar dissolved by standing the pan in boiling water. Now set it on the fire, and stir it until the scum rises ; then remove it from the fire, and skim it ; repeat this until no more scum rises. Let it now have a single boil, and run it thi-ough a jelly-bag. AVhen quite cold, bottle it in pint bottles. Syrup of Mulberries (a French recipe). Gather and pick the fruit before it is quite ripe, that the juice may have a little acidity. Eeduce to powder an equal weight of sugar, and place it together with the fruit in a preserving-pan ; do not mash the fruit, or it will make the juice thick. Set the pan over a very moderate fire; the heat will soon burst the fruit, and by this means the juice will be quite clear. When the sugar is dissolved it will require a few boilings to make the syrup. Strain it through a horsehair sieve without l ressing the fruit. The mulberries will remain in the sieve, and the syrup will not need to be clarified. Syrup of Orgeat. Blanch a pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds; rub them in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding now and then half a table-spoonful of cold water to prevent them from oiling. Mix the paste gradually with three pints of cold water ; strain it tlirough a cotton bag, squeezing the bag well to get out all the goodness of the almonds. Mix with this emulsion a quarter of a pint of orange-flower water. Now make a gallon of clarified syrup, pass it through a jelly-bag, set it on the fire, and boil it up. " Tien approaching to a proper consistence, stir in the emulsion gradually so as to check the boiling a little. Let it now continue to boil until it is done enough. Put it to cool. Bottle the syrup while still warm, agitating it before you pour it into the bottles. Ijet it stand till quite cold before you cork it. To make it keep better, pour a little di-op of olive oil on the top of each bottle, which must be quite full, allowing not more than half an inch of space between the corlc and the liquid. When a bottle is opened, the oil is to removed with a bit of cotton. For another way, see Orgeat Syrup. Syrup of Raspberry. Mash your raspberries a little immediately after they are gathered. Put them into a stone jar -n-ith half a pint of the best white-wine vinegar to each pound. Let them stand in a cold cellar during two days. Run the liquor through a hair-sieve, but without forcing through any of the raspberry-pulp, and to every pint put a pound and three-quarters of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, clarify it with white of egg, only heating but not boiling it; then put it on again to boil over a clear brisk fire ; skim it as it boils up ; let it boil ten minutes, then stir it till it is quite cold. By mixing a couple of table-spoonfuls of this spup in half a tumbler of water, and stirring in as much carbonate of soda as will cover a shilling, the famous effervescent raspbenyadc is formed. The pulp of the rasp berries may be converted into raspberry jam, the slight flavour of vinegar forming an agreeable variety. In Germany salad oil is sometimes poured on the top of raspberry syinip before corking : it is said to insure its keeping for any length of time. For another way of making syrup of raspberry, see Easx berry Syrup. Syrups. In addition to the above, recipes for the following syrups will be found under their respective headings : Geoseilles Jelly, Sykvp Claki FIED FOR Lemon Lemonade Mauaschino Mulberry Orange Orange-peel Almond Apricot B.\RBERRY' Blackberry Cherries Preserved IN Syrup j Compotes, Syrup for . Currant Ginger Oranges in Syrup. j Syrups, Fruit. Some rules for prepar, ing fruit syrups, given by a German expert, are ! perhaps worth a trial by oiu- readers. To have j fruit-juices fit for preservation, it is necessary, I in the first place, to select fully-ripe and un[ decayed fruit, and after mashing the fruit it ' should receive an addition of five to ten per I cent, of sugar, and then be left to undergo u j slight fermentation. The juice after filtration becomes perfectly clear, and is much improved ! in flavour and colour. Raspberries, whortleI berries, currants, cherries, &c., may be thus j treated, but the delicate flavour of the straw; berry requires some modification of the process. I In this, two pounds of carefully -picked strawI berries the wild strawberry of the wood is the I best are put into a glass jar with two and a ! half pounds of white powdered sugar, and I occasionally shaken. The sugar exti-acts the ' juice, and the berries shrivel to a dry pulp, and [ after filtering the syrup is ready for use. 1 Heating must be carefully avoided, as it would i at once destroy the fragrance of the fruit. As I to chenries, the so-called morella is recom; mended and by leaving the cracked stones in i the pulp, a flavour like that of bitter almonds ! will be imparted. To make syrup of the fruit: juices prepared as above indicated, our author i advises us never to make use of any metallic j vessels or spoons, and always to take best j refined loaf-sugar in lumps, five parts of juice j to eight parts of sugar constituting a good I proportion. The lumps of sugar are moistened I with just enough water to cause them to ' dissolve readily, when the remaining juice is added, and the whole is to be rapidly heated to boiling, which, however, must only' be continued for a few minutes. With good sugar no skimming is necessary, and filtering through flannel or other woollen cloth wetted in water containing a few drops of suljihuric acid, and well wrung, will make the syrup perfectly clear. It is best to fill the preserve jar with the.sjTup when cold, but if it has been done when hot, the vessel must be filled up after cooling, as the vapour condenses on the portion of the vessel left empty, and, ruiming down, dilutes the upper stratum of the syrup, and thus makes it more liable to spoil. TAB ( 955 ) TAD Table Beer, or Small Ale (Dr. KitchineT's recixie). To make four eighteengallon barrels, or seventy-two gallons, begin at night : have the water boiling by nine o'clock. For the quantity of three bushels, draw off into the niash-tub eighteen gallons of boilingwater, and ]vt it stand till it conies down to between 160" and 170¦ of heat, or till you can see your face well in it ; then 2:)0ur in the malt, having one person to stir it all the time it is pouring in ; continue to stir it for five or six minutes ; let it stand about half an hour, then add thirty-three gallons of water from 170¦ to 1S)0¦ ; cover up at about ten o'clock, and let it stand till si.x: next morning, then draw it off. If the first part is not quite bright, return it into the mash-tub. When the whole is drawn off, put thirty-three gallons of nearly-boihng water, mash for some minutes, cover it up, and let it stand for one hour. The third mash the .same. When the third mash is in the mashtub, clean the copper, and make it nearly dry, then take the first wort and part of the second (if the copper is sufficiently large), add the hops, and boil for about a quarter of an hour (I reckon from the time it absolutely boils). Draw off one-half, or one-third, according to the quantity, and fill up with the remainder of the wort ; let this boil nearly an hour, draw off a part, and continue to fill up till the whole is boiled. This is much less trouble than to make two or three separate boilings. Put your beer to cool as fast as you draw it off from the copper. A\Tien you can get it down to 50¦ or 60¦, you may put it together : the mash-tub having been cleared of the grains, and well washed, will make a good working tun. Let it stand till you find it about 60¦ or 65¦, when you may add the yeast. About a quart of good fresh yeast will be sufficient ; if not quite fresh, three pints. The best way to add the yeast is to put it into a wooden bowl, and stir it well with a whisk; add, as you stir it, about a handful of flour : let some of the yeast from the bowl run over into the beer, and let it swim quite full. Cover up ; keep the room from 50¦ to 60¦. "When the head begins to fall, which may be from twenty-four to even sixty hours, skim oft' the yeast, stir it well, add about a double handful of salt with a little flour before you stir it lip, and then barrel. It will work in the barrels from two to ten days, according to the weather and other circumstances. As it works the barrels must bo filled uji twice a day with some of the beer you have left, or if you are short in your brewing from any you have in tap. ' len it has nearly done working, which you may know from the yeast appearing wet or frothy, add two or three handfuls of the old hops to each barrel; stir them well, and let them stand for about twelve hours ; bung down, and in about twelve or fifteen days you ought to have beer as bright as wine. The hops should be soaked the night before in three or four gallons of cold water, and the sugar melted in an iron saucepan and put into I the copper about a quarter of an hour before I you draw it oft'. It is customary with some to make one sort of ! beer only if you make ale and table beer you generally rob one or the other. Five bushels of malt and ten or twelve pounds of sugar will make seventy-two gallons of excellent ale: about one pound of hops to each bushel of malt is the usual quantity ; but for beer to be kept during the summer half a pound to the bushel will not be found too much. Table Beer (another way). Oa three bushels of malt pour thirteen gallons of hot water. Cover it up for half an hour, then mash ; let it stand two hours and a half, and then draw off the liquor. Again add to the malt another thirteen gallons of water, and proceed as before. A final mashing with a third thirteen gallons of hot water will complete this part of the operation. Xow take a pound and a half of hops, and let them boil an hour with about a pailful of wort obtained as above. Strain off the liquid, and add to the rest. When sufficiently cool add about one quart of yeast. Xow place the wort in the fermenting tun; when it has ceased to work, cover the bunghole with paper for three days, then bung down close. Tablet, Cinnamon (sec Cinnamon Tablet). Tablets, Sugar, Flavoured. Clarify a pound of sugar. To do this, break it up into small pieces, and pour over it a quarter of a pint of water which has been beaten up Avith a tea-spoonful of white of egg. Let it stand until the sugar is dissolved, then put it on the fire, and when it boils throw in another quarter of a pint of water, and let it boil up again without stirring. Draw the jDan to the side of the fire, let the syrup settle, and carefully remove the scum. In order to avoid waste, i put this scum upon an inverted sieve ; a small I portion of clear sj-rup will drain from it, which I may be put with the rest. Flavour the syrup j with three drops of oil of cinnamon, the grated peel of two lemons, or a quarter of an ounce of ground ginger. Return it to the preserving I pan, and boil it to candy height, or until it rises liigh in the pan, and'has sufficient firmness I to make a thread when taken between the I thumb and finger, which have been previously I dipped in cold water. Pour it on a large flat dish or well-oiled slab, and mark it quickly into squares, into which it may be broken when cold. If liked, essence of peppermint, or essence of cloves may be used for flavouring. Tadcaster Pudding. Shred eight ounces of suet very finely, and mix it with a pound of flour ; or, if preferred, rub six ounces of butter or good beef dripping into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, two heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, four ounces of well-washed currants, four ounces of chopped and stoned raisins, two ounces of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. ]Mix the dry'ingredicnts together thoroughly. Dissolve a dessert-spoonful of treacle in about threequarters of a pint of milk, and stir this into the pudding to make a stiff batter. Pour the TAM ( 956 ) TAW mixture into a thickly-buttered baking-dish, and let it be from two to three inches in thickness. Bake in a moderate oven. When the pudding is done enough, let it stand for a cotiple of minutes, then turn it out on a hot dish. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. Id. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. iTamara, Italian. Take one ounce of fiander-secd, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of fennel-seed, half an ounce of aniseed ; beat these ingredients to a powder, and use in the same way as curry powder. Tamarind. This is the fruit or rather the pod of a tree indigenous to the East and West Indies. It thrives also in Egypt, Ai-abia, and Palestine. In these countries it is sometimes used as an article of food in the form of confectionery, and it is lughly thought of on account of its pleasant acid taste and cooling properties. The pod consists of two parts : the outer is fleshy, and the inner as thin as parchment. Between these two there is a space of about a quarter of an inch, which is occupied by a soft pulp of a tart but agreeable taste. The pods are gathered when quite ripe, freed from the shelly fragments, and placed in a cask in layers ; boiling syrup is then poured over them till the cask is full. The syrup pervades every TAMARINDS. part, even to the bottom. TVTien cold the casks are headed down and sent to market. The more refined mode of preparation, however, is to clarify the juice of the fruit with the white of egg, and form it with sugar into a clear, transparent syrup : this and the fruit supphes an agreeable and cooling beverage. Tamarind-juice. Mix a quarter of a pint of tamarind- juice with half a pint of cold spring water. This will make a refreshing drink in hot weather or for a sick person. Tamis. A tamis is a worsted cloth made on purpose for straining sauces. The best way of using it (says Dr. Kitchiner) is for two people to twist it contrary ways. This is a I better way of straining sauce than passing it thiough a sieve, and refines it much more completely. Tangerine Oranges, Frosted. Divide some tangerine oranges into quarters. Have ready some thin wooden skewers four or five inches long, a skewer for each piece of orange, and put them in the point of each quarter of orange about half-way through. Lay one end of the skewers upon a sieve so that the fruit can hang outside without touching an}i,hing and let it dry for two or three hours. Make an icing by boiling a pound of sugar with a pint of water to a clear syrup, and when it is smooth and clear add a little of the juice and grated rind of the orange to flavour it agreeably. When the sugar rises like large beads in the pan, take a little quickly from the top with the finger, and plunge it at once into cold water. If it comes easily off the finger the sugar is ready for use, and must not be boiled longer, or it will be discoloured. Dip the pieces of oranges in the icing, and afterwards let them drain from the sieve until cold. Remove the skewers, and serve the iced fruit in a compotedish. Time, about three hours. Sufficient, sLx oranges for a moderate-sized dish. Tankard Cup. Make a slice of toast, put it in a large goblet, and grate over it the eighth of a nutmeg. Add two inches of thin lemon-rind, and squeeze upon it the juice of half a lemon. MLx a pint of mild ale with a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of white wine, and a table-spoonful of cajpillaire. Pour the mixture over the toast, and it will be ready to serve. A sprig of mint or borage may be put into the mixture for a minute, or not. Tansy, Apple {see Apple Tansy). Tansy Pudding. This is an oldfashioned dish seldom to be met with at modern tables. Pound a handful of green tansy with three or four young spinach-leaves, and squeeze out the juice. Pour a pint of boiling milk over a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, and let it stand until cool. Add two ounces of butter, a glassful of brandy, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of the tansyjuice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then add four weU-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a wellheated oven. Serve very hot, and sift jiowdered sugar thickly over the top of the pudding. A superior tansy pudding may be made by flavouring the milk with pounded almonds, and lining the edges of the dish with puft" paste before putting in the mixture. At oldfashioned tables the ordinary batter puddingmay occasionally be seen coloured and flavoured with tansy -juice. Tansy-leaves have a peculiar bitter taste, and are said to act as a tonic. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tansy Pudding (another waj-). Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of Jordan almonds ; put them into a stewpan, add a gill of the syriip of roses, the crumb of a French roll, some grated nutmeg, half a glassful of brandy. TAP (957) TAP two table-spoonfuls of tansy-juice, three ounces of fresh butter, and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten, and when cold mix it ; add the juice of a lemon and eight eggs beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. Tapioca. Tapioca is procured from a plant which grows in British Guiana, and is known to botanists by the name of Jatropha, or Manihot Janipha. The tapioca is procured from the root of the plant which, oddly enough, contains hydrocyanic acid ; and it is said that the native Indians poison their arrows from the juice of the root before they begin preparing the tapioca. The native cassava is also prepared from the same plant. Tapioca is a wholesome and nutritious farinaceous food very easy of digestion. It is used for puddings, for thickening soups and sauces, and it is also simply boiled in milk or water as' a food for invalids. When mixed with other flour it will make very good bread. It shoidd be bought of a respectable dealer, as a spurious kind is sometimes offered for sale made of gum and potato-floiu-. The jar in the store- cupboard wliich contains tapioca should be kept closely covered, or insects will get into it. Tapioca and Apple Pudding. Wash ?a tea-cupful of tapioca, and sqak it for an hour in a quart of cold water. Put it into a saucepan, set it on the fire, let it boil, then simmer it gently until it is smooth and clear, stirring it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Hali fill a moderate-sized pie-dish with cooking apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin slices. Bake these in a moderate oven until they are ' slightly softened, then sweeten the tapioca, flavour it in any way that' may bo agreeable, and pour it over the fruit. Bake the pudding until the apples have fallen. Any other fruit may be substituted for apples, such as strawberries, red currants, raspberries, &c. The pudding may be served hot, or in summertime may be made with fresh fruit, turned out in a mould, and when cold eaten with milk ?or cream. Time, about one hour to bake the pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicicnt for five or six persons. Tapioca and Tomatoes. Soak a tablespoonful of tapioca in water for a couple of hours, set it to boil, adding a Httle more water till quite done to the consistency of porridge. Add pepper, salt, and a little fresh butter. Cut two tomatoes in half, remove pips and watery substance, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt. Fill each half-tomato with the tapioca, sprinkle the top with grated parmesan and baked bread-crumbs, put them into the oven for twenty minutes, and serve. Tapioca Cake. Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fii-e, it will become tough ; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is extremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar and very little salt. Then add the peel of half a lemon ; but if the taste of orange-flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c., should bo more agreeable, use them in preference, according to taste. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire ; when it is done throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which beat up with it, and let them do over the stove. "When you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, poui- them gently over the rest, and set the whole in a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, spiinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread : mix with the preparation some diied cherries and cuiTants, and proceed as you would do for a soufile. Vhen done turn the mould upsidedown in a dish, and send up hot. Ude. , Tapioca Custard. Wash two' tablespoonfuls of tapioca, and boil it gently in a pint of milk until it is quite soft, stirring it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Add a piece of butter the size of a walnut and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and when these are thoroughly mixed draw the saucepan on one side that the preparation may cool a little. Beat four fresh eggs ia a bowl, mix gradually with them part of the tapioca, then pour them into the remainder in the saucepan, and stir all over the fire until the custard is on the point of boiling. Turn it out, flavour with vanilla, ratafia, almond, or any other flavouring, and when it is cold put it into a glass dish. Just before serving, crush an ounce of macaroons to powder, and sprinkle them over the surface, or if preferred sift a little powdered cinnamon over the top. Time to simmer the tapioca, about two hours. Probable cost, Is. Suflicient for four or five persons. Tapioca for Invalids. Wash a tablespoonful of tapioca, and soak it in a pint of water or milk and water for half an hour. Let it boil, then simmer it gently until it is quite clear, and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Sweeten it slightly, and flavour with brandy or wine if agreeable, if not, with cinnamon or orange or lemon-rind. If it is too thick add a little more water. Veal, mutton, or chicken broth may be substituted TAP ( 958 ) TAR for the water or milk and water. Time to simmer, about thi-ee-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for one invalid. Tapioca, Gratine. Put two ounces of very clear tapioca with a quart of hot milk, a small bit of sugar, a very little salt, and one leaf of almond-laurel ; let this boil gently over a slow fire ; when the tapioca is done, put it into a silver stewpan, and set it on a pretty sharj) stove-fire to gratin ; let it stick very much to the bottom of the stewpan ; take out the laurelleaf, and serve with a cover over ; but mind to cover the stewpan with a skewer and a sheet of paper to prevent the dust from flying into it. Tapioca is an excellent and wholesome production, and very useful in families : it may be used in any sort of cntremt.its, such as gateau de tapioca, souffle, pudding, potage, &c., prepared in the same manner as rice. Udc. Tapioca Jelly. AVash a quarter of a pound of tapioca, and soak it in a pint of water for some hours. Put it into a saucepan over the fire with another pint of cold water and the thin rind of a lemon or an orange, and let it simmer gently until quite clear and thick, and keep adding at intervals small quantities of boiling water to make uji half a pint. Eemove the lemon-rind, pour out the tapioca, sweeten it, add as much lemon- juice as is agreeable, and a little brandy or wine if liked. Pour the prepared tapioca into small damp moulds, and turn it out when cold and stiff. Tapioca jelly is very good eaten wth preserved fruit and cream or milk. Time to simmer, about one hour. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the wine or brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tapioca Jelly (another way). Take one pound of tapioca and six pints of water. Let the tapioca soak in the water all night ; in the morning boil until quite clear and of a proper consistence, then flavour to taste. Tapioca Pudding, Baked. Wash four tiible-spoonfuls of tapioca in water, then let it boil with a quart of milk and the thin rind ?f a lemon or an orange, or an inch of cinnamon. Pour it into a basin, let it get cold, sweeten it, and take out the peel. Beat it up with three eggs and an ounce of butter. Pour it into a buttered dish, and bake the pudding in a well-heated oven. The edge of the dish may be lined with puff paste or not. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tapioca Pudding, Boiled. Wash two table-spoonfuls of tapioca, and let it soak in a pint of milk for an hour. Put it into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon or an orange, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Let it boil, then stir it over a gentle fire for a quarter of an hour. Pour it out, remove the rind, and let the tapioca cool. Stir in with it the yolks of four and the whites of two well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered mould, and boil or steam it until done enough. Let it stand in the mould for some minutes after it is taken up before turning it out. It will be necessary to handle it verj' carefully, or it will break. Sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and send a dish of cream, to table with it. The appearance of the pudding will be improved if it is garnished with any kind of bright-coloured jelly or jam. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Tapioca Pudding, Prencli. Take two ounces of tapioca, and boil it in half a pint of water until it begins to melt, then add half a pint of milk by degrees, and boil until the tapioca becomes very thick : add a well-beaten egg, sugar, and flavouring to taste, and bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. This preparation of tapioca is superior to any other, is nourishing, and suitable for delicate children. Tapioca Pudding, Simple. Wash and drain a tea-cupful "of tapioca, and put it into a buttered baking-dish large enough to hold about three pints. Sprinkle over it a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a little nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon-peel, and fill the dish with cold milk. Put in a piece of butter the size of a small nut, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. When the surface of the pudding is covered with a brightlybrowned skin it is done enough. Send sugar to table witli the pudding. Time to bake, about two hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tapioca Soup. Take as much properlyseasoned clear cold stock as may be required, and put it into the stewpan with an ounce of well-washed tapioca to each jjint of stock. Bring the preparation gradually to the point of boiling, then simmer it gently until tender, and stir it frequently to keep it from gettinginto lumps. A white soup may be made by using veal stock, and adding a little boilingcream or milk to the soup j ust before serving. Time to simmer the tapioca, an hour or more from the time the soup boils. Probable cost, varying with the quality of the stock. Sufficient, a quart of soup for four or five persons. Tapioca Soup (another way). Largegrained tapioca is the best for soup. Take as much tapioca as may be required, and soak it in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with as much cold stock as will cover it ; let it boil, and afterwards simmer it gently until it is quite clear and tender. Stir the rest of the stock, already flavoured, into it, let it boil up, and serve immediately. Time to simmor the tapioca, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Sufficient an ounce of tapioca will thicken a pint of soup. Taro. This is the South Sea Islanders' " staff of life." The taro plant is a species of arum, called by some botanists ylrum csculentum though this is a vague distinction, since there are others of this genus that produce edible roots. It is in its large tuberous root that the value of the taro lies : this root varies in size, according to the ground in which it grows. It is usually of several pounds' weight, though some roots are so largo as with difficulty to be squeezed into a three-quart pot. In shape the TAR ( 959 ) TAR taro root is somcthini - like an ohlong turnip or "beetroot, terminating abruptly, as if the smaller end had Leon cut off. The taro roots when raw are poisonous, and they are prepared for eating by two nistinct processes. One is by the ordinary method of boiling as potatoes are boiled, with the addition of salt thrown into the water. After being boiled, the root, now possessing a fine white mealy appearance, is eaten ;is a yam or sweet potato. The more general practice, however, is to mash or pulverise the taro into a floury substance, and afterwards, mixing it with water, make batter cakes of it, to be frittered in lard. \Yhen thus prepared, the taro may be easily mistaken for pancakes made of the best flour. Tarragon Sauce for Boiled Fowls. Take a small bunch of tarragon, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of nicely-seasoned chicken broth and the wliite of an egg which has been beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of cold water and a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. AVhisk all thoroughly over the fire until the broth boils, then draw it to the side, let it sinmier gently for a quarter of an hour, and afterwards let it stand to settle for another quarter of an hour. Strain through a jelly-bag, and when it is wanted, let the clear sauce simmer again until it begins to thicken. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil, and a quarter of an horn- to settle. Tarragon Vinegar for Salads and various Sauces. Gather the tarragon on a dry day, just before the plant begins to bloom. This will be late in July, or in the early part of August. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and -rtdth them fill wide-mouthed glass bottles up to the neck, and in doing so bruise the leaves slightly that their flavour may more easily escape. Cover with best vinegar, tie bladder over the mouths of the bottles, and then let the leaves infuse six weeks or two months. Pour off the liquid, strain through muslin till it is quite clear, put it into small bottles, and cork down securely. Store in a dry place. Time, about two months. Tarragon Vinegar (another -way). See Elder-flower and Tarragon Vinegar. Tart, Fruit (English way). Spread some puff paste over the table with a rolling-pin ; cut a piece the size of the dish, and out of the trimmings cut some strips ; brush the edge of the dish with dorure, and stick the strips on it : then put the fruit into the dish with some sugar and a little water ; roll the paste on the rolling-pin, and lay it over the fruit. Before you put the paste on, brush the strips with some dorure (eggwash, or water) to make it stick. When you have trimmed the dish all round, brush some white of egg over the tart, and sift some sugar over it : then dip the paste-brush into water, and shako it over the tart. Bake it properly, and serve up cold. Apples, however, are an exception, as they are better hot. Instead of brushing the tart with white of ep s; only, you may use yolk and white beaten together, which is called dorure, and should be borne in mind. "When this has been done, take a small knife 1 and ornament the paste with figures according I to your fancy ; then put the tart in the oven, ! and if it begins to have too much colour cover I it with paper. When done, spread over it j some fine sugar through a sieve, replace it in I the oven to day the sugar, and with the red ! salamander glaze the tart of a bright colour. ! You must prepare all kinds of fruit in the .same j way: use sometimes the paste for tarts, but I in that case no strips are absolutely necessary. Ude. Tart, My Lady's. Make a little pastry with six ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, three ounces of fresh butter, and as much cold water j or milk as will make a smooth firm paste. Roll it out lightly two or three times, and the last time roll it to the thickness of a little less than an inch. Stamp it out with a fluted cutter the I size of the dish in which it is to be served, and j lay it on a floured baking-tin. RoU the trimmings of the pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and stamp this out in rounds ! the size of the flutings of the larger cutter. Moisten the edges slightly, lay the rounds upon the border of the tart, and press them upon the inner side, so that the outer edge may have a flaky appearance. Lastlj make a circular incision a quarter of an inch deep almost close to the border, and bake the tart in a moderate oven. When it is done enough take out the part which has been marked with a sharp knife, carefully scrape away the soft crummy centre, and fill the tart with good jam of any kind, or with oysters or lobsters prepared as for a vol-au-vent. Put the tart into the oven again for a minute, and serve it hot or cold. It may be ornamented according to fancy. If filled with sweetmeat, a few blanched and sliced almonds may be strewn over it, or the rounds of the border may be glazed with beaten egg. At Christmas-time the tart may be filled with hot mincemeat instead of jam. Time to bake, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the interior, 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Tart with Sugar Icing. The appearance of tarts made in the ordinary way, and with all kinds of fruit, is very much improved by icing them. In order to do this proceed as follows : Line the edges of the dish with good crust, fill it with fniit and a little sugar, lay on the cover, press down the edges, and trim them neatly. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a solid froth, and at the last moment stir three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted and perfectly dry sugar briskly into them. Spread the icing equally over the top, leaving about an inch all round imtouched, and put the tart into a well-heated oven. Bake it until the pastry is nicelj' risen and the icing is set then lay a sheet of writing-paper over it to keep it from acquiring too much coloirr. Time to bake, half an hour for a moderate-sized tart. Tartar Mustard. Put a table-spoonful of the best Durhaua mustard into a cup with a pinch of salt and a pinch of cayenne, and rub it down to a smooth paste, using horseradish vinegar instead of water. Be careful to mix no more tlian will be required for one TAR ( 960 ) TAR day's use, as the preparation is better when freshly made. Tartar Sauce. Put the yolk of an egg quite free from white into a basin, and beat it for a minute or two -with a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a table-spoonful of dry mustard. Stir into this, first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, four table-spoonfuls of pure salad oil, and be careful to beat the sauce for a minute or two between every addition, as its excellence depends in a great measure upon this being done. After each si.K tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a tea- spoonful of vinegar. Wash and mince finely three shallots, six small gherkins, and a table-spoonful of mixed chervil and tarragon. Put these into the sauce with a pinch of cayenne. Mix thoroughly, and serve. If the sauce is not immediately wanted, it should be kept in a cool place. Time to mix the sauce, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tartar Sauce (another way) . Wash and mince finely four shallots. Put them into a mortar with a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon or cher\-il (or both), a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs. Pound these ingredients until quite smooth. Put them into a bowl, and mix with them very gradually three table-spoonfuls of pure saladoil. The oil should be put in first in drops, and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should be well beaten between each addition. If this point is carefully attended to, there will be no danger of the sauce cui-dling. A\Tien the oil is thoroughly incorporated, add three dessert-spoonfuls of best \dnegar and one of chilli vinegar. Serve in a tureen. Tartlet-tins [see illustration accompanying the article on Almond Cheesecakes). Tartlets. Tartlets may be made with puif paste, almond paste, or any sweet pastry. They are made as follows : Butter some pattyl ans, and line them with pastry rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Trim them neatly, put a little crust of bread into each tartlet or what will answer the same purpose, which is to keep the pastry from puffing up in the centre prick two or three holes in the bottom of the tart : bake in a quick oven. When they are two-thirds baked, take the tartlets out of the oven, remove the bread, and in its place put a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Return them to the oven, and bake until done enough. Let them get cold before serving, ornament prettily, and send them to table piled high on a dish covered with a white nai kin. Some cooks put the jam into the_ tartlet before it is baked at all, but this spoils both the taste and the appearance. Time to bake the tartlets, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, about Id. each. Sufficient, half a pound of pastry will make a moderate-sized dish of tartlets. Tartlets (another way). Roll out the pastry to the tliickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in an e\'en number of rounds of uniform size, and make half of these into by pressing a small cutter quite through the [ centre of them. Moisten the edges of the rounds, place the rings upon them, and press them tightly together. Put the tartlets on a ! baking-tin, and bake them in a well-heated oven. I As soon as they are done enough, take them I out of the oven, and before they are cool fill them with jam or mannalade. Lay a pastiy ornament or a spoonful of whipped cream on the top, and they are ready for serving. Time to bake, about twelve minutes. Probable cost, Id. each. Tartlets, Orange. Make some rich puff paste, with which line some mince-pie tins. Put some orange marmalade into each, and squeeze fresh Seville orange- juice over them. Bake for a quarter of an hour, and strew pounded sugar over. The tartlets are good hot or cold. Tartlets, Pastry Cream for Garnishing {see Pastry Cream). Tartlets, To Ornament. The usual way of ornamenting tartlets is to lay upon them pastry leaves, flowers, or other devices. These may be made of the trimmings of the pastry, and should be baked separately in a slow oven. Sometimes a tea-spoonful of whipped cream is substituted for the pastry. Ornaments for tartlets are made also of almond pastry prepared as follows : Pound and sift two ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it two ounces of dried flour and an ounce of almonds pounded till smooth. Make this mixture into a stifP paste with the white of an egg well whisked with a table-spoonful of orange-flower water. Beat the paste, and roll it out as thin as possible. Stamp it into leaves, stars, flowers, half-crescents, or any other fancy shapes, and bake these in a slow oven tiU they. are firm without being coloured. When cold they are ready for use. These ornaments may be kept between sheets of -writing-paper in a tin box to be used when wanted. Tarts. Recipes for the following tarts will be found under their respective headings : Apple, Creamed Custard Apple Damson Apple, Economical Frexch Plum Apple, Open Fruit, Cream for Apple, Plain Fruit, Preserved Apple, Rich Gooseberry Apple, Young Jam Apricot, Green Jam, Open Black Currant Jelly Custard Cherry Lemon Chocolate Little Ladies' Cr. nberky Monitors' Cre.\m Paste, Short, for Crust for Fruit Paste, Transparent, Currant and Rasp- Plum [for BERRY Raspberry Tarts, Icing for. Beat the whites of two eggs to a froth, and when the tart is nearly done cover the crust by means of a paste-brush with some of the white, then sju'inkle over it some finely-powdered loaf sugar. Wash the TAR (961 ) TEA Ijrush, and splash the sugar very gently with water until it is dissolved. Put the tart again into the oven for five minutes. Tarts, Paste for. Take a pound and a haK of flour, a pound and a quarter of fresh butter, a largo pinch of salt, four yolks of eggs, and half a glassful of water. Mix this paste as lightly as possible without handling it too much ; spread it over the dresser with a rolling-pin, and then fold it in three, as you do puff paste ; roll it out, and fold it up again. Do this four times running : this is what is called four-turned. Use this paste either for tourte of entrees, for pies of meat or fruit, or when it mav be wanted. THE TEA PLAKT. Tea. Doctors disagree as to whether the constant use of tea is beneficial or otherwise in its effects upon the human frame. There can be Kttle doubt, however, that when partaken of too freely it acts injuriously upon the nervous system ; yet, when taken in moderation, it is exhilarating, strengthening, and refreshing. Tastes differ as to the superiority of the flavour of the different kinds of tea. Some like all black, some all green, and some a mixture of the two. For mixed tea the usual proportion is four parts of black tea to one of green. Green tea is more exhilarating than black, and it has a tendency to produce excitement and wakefulness. When taken very strong it is exceedingly pernicious. Amongst the black teas may be mentioned Bohea, Congo, Souchong, Assam, and Pekoe. Amongst the green teas, Twankay, Hyson-skin, Young Hyson, Hyson, Imperial, and Gunpowder. {See Tea, Varieties of.) Sometimes two or three kinds of tea are mixed together a finely-flavoured one with an in?xpensive one and then cheapness can be combined with superiority of flavour. The following is a favourite and inexpensive mixture of black teas : One pound of Moning Congo, a quarter of a pound of Assam, and a quarter of a pound of Orange Pekoe. Tea and Coffee, Analysis of. The following analyses of tea and coffee are interesting, as showing how nearly the)- con tain the same organic constituents, although in different proportions : 100 parts 100 parts of Tea con- of Coti'ee tain. contain Water ... 5 12 Theine ... 3 1-75 Caseinc . . .15 13 Gum ... 18 9 Sugar ... 3 6.5 Starch . . .a trace a trace Tannin . . .26-25 4 Aromatic oil . . 075 0-002 Fat ... 4 12 Fibre ... 20 35 Mineral substances 5 6-7 Tea Biscuits. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter and a large pinch of salt in a pint of warm milk. Stir this into a pound of flour, and make the paste into a stiff dough by kneading it well with a table-spoonful of brewer's yeast. Put the dough into a bowl, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When quite hght, roll it out very thin, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake in a moderate oven. Tea biscuits should be eaten cold, and a little butter or marmalade should be sent to table with them. Time to bake, ten to twenty minutes, according to size. Probable cost for this quantity, 8d. Suflicient for a dish. Tea Cakes {see Queen's Tea Cakes). Tea Cakes, Baker's, To Toast. Cut the tea cake across into three or four slices, according to thickness. Toast and butter these on both sides, and lay them one upon another in a hot dish. Cut them into quarters, and serve as hot as possible. They will retain their heat much longer if kept in a covered plate over a basin of boiling water. Tea Cakes, Royal. Take the weight of a large egg in fresh butter. Beat it to a cream, and mix with it four ounces of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, four ounces of best flour, a small pinch of salt, and the grated peel of half a lemon. Beat the egg with a little rose or orange-flower water, and with this knead the mixture to a smooth paste. Roll it out, cut it into smaU rounds, and bake these upon floured tins in a weU-heated oven. Time to bake, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to the size of the cakes. Probable cost, about 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for one or two persons. Tea Cakes, Yorkshire (excellent). Rub six ounces of butter into two pounds of fine flour ; add a pinch of salt, two eggs well beaten, a pint of milk, and an ounce of German yeast. Knead the mixture well, put it into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and set on the hearth to rise. Wlien it is quite light, and the surface has cracked, divide it into ten cakes, and roll these out lightly to the size of a saucer. Let them rise before the fire a few minutes, and bake in a quick oven. They must not be turned over in the oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tea Cakes, Yorkshire, Plain. Rub one ounce of butter and one ounce and a half of lard into two pounds of the best flour. Mix rather less than an ounce of German yeast with TEA 962) TEA half a pint of warm water. Scoop a hollow in the centre of the flour, and pour the dissolved yeast into it. Mix a little of the flour with this to make a thin hatter, and place the howl before the fire for an hour that the yeast may rise. Beat an egg thoroughly with two tahlespoonfuls of warm milk. Stir this into the batter, add a salt-spoonful of salt, and knead all thoroughly together, adding as much warm milk as is required to make a smooth dough. Gash the surface lightly with a knife, cover the bowl which contains it with a cloth, and let the dough rise until it is quite light. Divide it into ten pieces, and roll these into cakes the size of a saucer. Prick these with a fork, put them on a baking-tin before the fire for a few minutes to rise, and hake them lightly in a well-heated oven. They must on no account be turned over in baking. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. each. Sufficient for ten cakes. Tea Cakes, Yorkshire, To Serve. No Yorkshire tea-table would be regarded as j)roperly furnished unless it boasted a goodly show of hot and cold tea cakes. When served cold, the tea cakes are simply cut into fingers, buttered liberally, and piled crosswise upon a plate. When served hot, thej are heated in the oven, cut through the centre, spread with plenty of fresh butter, cut into quarters, restored to their original shape, and served as hot as possible. Or they may be cut through the centre, toasted, buttered liberally, and served very hot. They should bo sent in one or two at a time, as they will spoil if allowed to stand. Tea, Choosing and Keeping of. Tea should be chosen by the agreeabicness of its odour, and as whole as possible, so that its leaf may be easily examined. In keeping it the greatest care should be taken not to expose it t? the air, which destroys the flavour. Tea, Cold. The value of cold tea as a beverage is not sufficiently known. Literary men and others accustomed to a sedentarj occupation would find one or two cups of cold tea taken without either milk or sugar to be as stimulating as the same quantity of sherry, whilst there would be no fear of the drowsiness or diminution of the working power which might arise from imbibing either wine or spirit. The taste for cold tea is an easily-acquired one, and worth cultivating by those who require an occasional and harmless stimulant. Tea, Consolidated. Extracts, essences, and concentrated essences are to bo met with in a hundred shapes, and amongst recent inventions we have consolidated tea. Tliis production is made up in neat little tablets, each divided into so many different portions, thus showing at a glance the exact quantity required for use. As the tea will preserve its properties under any change of climate, and is much less in bulk than that in ordinary use, it is likely to be held in high favour by travellers and officers of the army and navy. _ Tea Cream. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into which throw a little salt and some sugar the latter must, however, predominate. When the cream boils, throw two or three spoonfuls of good green tea into it, put in ten yolks of very fresh eggs, and proceed as usual upon the fire till the cream becomes thick, then put in the isinglass, &c., pass it through a tamis, and put it in the mould, and then to the ice. If your mould is small; eight eggs are sufficient. Tea, Herb. The following proportions are recommended by a well-known herbalist : Agrimony, balm, tormentil, wild marjoram, of each one ounce ; red roses, cowslip flowers, black-currant leaves, of each a quarter of an ounce. Cut small and mix. A heaped tablespoonful is enough for two persons, made as China tea, with sugar and cream, or milk if approved. The following substitute for tea is also recommended : Hawthorn leaves dried, ten parts ; sage and balm, one part. Mix well together, and use as above. Tea Made Overnight. When tea is wanted for a very early breakfast, make it overnight, and pour it away from the tea-leaves before it gets cold. If this is done one need not fear that it will taste bitter, as cold tea generally does when it is warmed up, for it acquires this taste with long standing on the tea-leaves. In the morning it will simply need to be warmed until it is sufficiently hot to drink that is, until it has reached a temperature of 140¦ Fahr., or nine degrees above an average night temperature of 50" ; whereas if the tea had to be freshly made it would he necessary I to bring the water to boiling point that is, to 212*, and this would take some minutes longer. I Tea, Spirituous Syrup of. Pour a quarter of a pint of boiling water on three j ounces (avoirdupois weight) of fine young! hyson. Let it stand an hour, then add to it a pint of brandy or proof spirit; let it steep for ten days, shaking it up every day ; strain it, and sweeten with clarified syrup. A spoonful or two of this in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing beverage. Tea, To Make. A silver or metal teapot is better than an earthenware one for drawing out the flavour and strength of the tea. The amount of tea used must depend upon the quantity required. The old-fashioned allowance is a very sensible one, that is, one large teaspoonful for each of the company, and one for the teapot. Before making the tea, pour half a pint of boiling water into the teapot, and let it stand for two minutes. Pour it out, and immediately put in the tea. Close the lid, and let it remain for a minute to heat, then pour upon it half a pint of boiling water. Let it stand for three minutes, add sufficient boiling water to fill the teapot, and the tea will be ready for use. Be careful not to drain all the liquor from the pot so long as it is necessary to continue to add boiling water, or the tea will be very weak ; and if it is desirable to add a little fresh tea, let it be brewed separately in a teacup before it is added to that which is already made, as its strength will not be drawn out if it is put upon the old leaves. Perhaps it is unnecessary to say that unless the water is really boihng when it is put upon the tea there will be no good tea. " Unless the kettle boiling be, Filling tbe teapot spoils tbe tea." TEA ( 963 ) TEA Green tea requires to stand a minute or two longer than black tea. Tea, To make (Debuisson's method). Put the tea into a kettle with cold water. Cover it close, set it on the fire, and make it very nearly but not quite boil ; then take it from the fire. When the leaves sink it is ready. Tea, To Make (Dr. Trusler's method). This was to malce a very strong infusion by pouring boiling water upon the tea, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than was necessary to fill it about onethird full ; then each cup was filled with hot water from an urn or kettle : thus the tea was always hot and equally strong to the end. Tea, Varieties of. These are very numerous. The following arc those chiefly met with in the shops of Great Britain : Gheex Teas. Chinese (1) : Gunpowder sorts, viz., Shanghai, Ping-Suey or pin's-head, Moyune, Imperial Moyune, and Canton; (2), Hyson sorts, viz., Shanghai, Shanghai young, ]\Ioyune, Moyune young, Canton young, and Twankay or Imperial Hyson. Japanese : Gunpowder and Young Hyson. Java : Gunpowder. Black Teas. Chinese (1): Congo sorts, viz.. Canton, Foo-chow-foo, Hung-muey, Oopack, Kaisow, and Oonam ; (2), Pekoe sorts, ?\iz., plain Orange, Foo-chow, scented Orange, Canton scented Orange, flowery Pekoe, Oolong, and Souchong. Assam : Congo, Orange-pekoe and Souchong. Java : Congo and Imperial. The latter sort is made up in small balls about as big as a pea, and is rather rare. Tea, Weak Green (a refreshing beverage). Weak green tea with a little sugar and lemon-juice in it, and no milk, is a most refreshing drink in cases of fever. It may be taken either cold or hot, but the latter way is to be preferred. Tea, Wholesomeness of. The following remarks on this subject by Dr. Graham are well worthy of attention : " Tea is well known to have a very marked and irritating effect on the nervous system in some persons, and it is drank in this country far too often and too strong. It forms a refreshing anti-spasmodic beverage, but should not be taken either strong or very hot ; the addition of milk renders it more wholesome, that of sugar less so. Individuals of a rigid and solid fibre are more benefited by it than those of an opposite habit ; but no one should take more than two tea-cupfuls morning and evening. I cannot think it equal to cocoa or thin chocolate for common use ; and it is very probable that some of our indigenous plants would jaeld a more wholesome and equally as palatable an infusion as the tea-leaf of China. With some persons no kind of China tea agrees, and then an infusion of agrimony or some other native plant should be substituted for it. I may state on very respectable authority that the first leaves "of whortlebcrrj-, properly gathered and dried in the shade, cannot be distinguished from real teas. Sage (the Toincntosa or Balsamic Sage) and Balm [Melissa Hortensis or Garden Balm) are likewise e.xcellent substitutes for tea, more especially in the case of debility in the stomach and nervous system. It is certain that all f reen tea is exceedingly pernicious, having a strong tendency to injure the stomach and bowels and the whole nervous system. Medicinally, tea is of much service in tyj hus and bihous fevers, cramp of the stomach, flatulency, and to relieve the sensations of oppression and weight at the pit of the stomach so frequently accompanying indigestion and bilious complaints. It is, however, worthy of particular notice from the dyspejitic, that few things will injure him more than immoderate indulgence in i this or any other warm slop. " Tea being an article of daily and universal I consumi tion, I would beg the reader's attention i to the following rules in using it: 1. Care! fully avoid the high-priced and high-flavoured I teas more especially if green which gene. rally owe then- flavour to pernicious ingredients, I and abound most with those active principles I whence the noxious effects of the article arise, j 2. Take with it a good proportion of milk, as a corrective to any possible noxious qualities \ present. 3. Let the quantity of tea used at j each infusion be very moderate. 4. Make the j infusion properly, with water soft and otherI wise of a good quality, and in a boiling state. 5. Tea is a beverage better adapted for the j evening than the morning, and therefore less of I it should be taken at the latter tlian the former I period. The first meal we take in the morning j to recruit the body, after the loss it has susI tained during a long fast through the night, and to prepare it for the labours of the succeeding hours of the day, should be in some measui-e substantial, consisting of a large proportion of solid aliment. Indeed, except when drank soon after a hearty dinner, bread and biscuit should always be taken with tea." On the good results following from teadrinking there is also something to be said : " Physicians now consider that the theine and aromatic oil of tea not only act as sedatives generally on the nervous system, but also exert a conservative action on the different structures of the body, checking any disposition to too rapid a change in them, and consequent exhaustion. Not only so ; but as the daily removal of worn-out materials from the body, through the kidneys and other channels, is essential to health, tea and coffee are regarded as helpful to this process, when taken in moderate quantities. Tea likewise contains potash, peroxide of iron, soda, and several other salts which are most important to the human, system. Liebig, the Gei-man chemist, says, ' We have, therefore, in tea a beverage which contains the active constituents of the most powerful mineral springs.' " Teal. The flesh of this beautiful and delicate little water-fowl is highly prized. It is considered to be better flavoured after the frost has set in, and is in season from the end of September to Februarj-. It may be served according to any of the recipes given for wild duck, though less time will be required to cook it. Teal, Filleted. A handsome dish may be made by half roasting the birds, then taking them down, dividing them into neat joints, TEA ( 964 ) TEN" and stewing these for eight or ten minutes in half a pint of good brown gravy rather highly seasoned and flavoured with port or lemonjuice. When sufhciently dressed the birds should be neatly dished upon toast, and should have the gravy strained over them. A little mushroom sauce should be sent to table in a tureen. Three or four birds will be required for this entree. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons Teal, Gravy for. Clean the giblets and put them into a stewpan with a pound of lean beef cut small, or instead of it a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat, a moderate- sized onion chopped small, half a tea-spoonful of sugar browning, two or three pej percoms, three cloves, a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley, three inches of thin lemon-rind, and a pint and a half of lukewarm water. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until the gravy is good, then strain and cool it, and skim the fat from the top. Put it back into the saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of port, and a little salt. Boil up once more, and serve. Or put half a pint of good gravy into a saucepan with a small onion finely minced and a roll of orange or lemon-peel. Let the sauce boil a few minutes, then strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and add the juice of a lemon or Se 'ille orange. Simmer a few minutes longer ; put with it a glassful of port or claret, and send it to table very hot. A sliced lemon -without the rind is usually sent to table with roast teal. Teal, Gravy for (another way). See Gravy for Teal, kc. Teal Pudding. Take three teal and a pound of tender rump steak. Divide the birds into neat joints, and season them well with salt and c;iyenne. Cut up the steak into pieces an inch square, season them, and dredge them lightly with flour. Line a shallow, thick-rimmed pudding-basin with good suet pastry rolled out to the thickness of half an inch, and leave an inch of crust to overlap the edge. Place in the basin a layer of steak and a layer of jointed teal, and repeat until the dish is full. Pour in a quarter of a pint of beef gravy. JMoisten the edges of the pastry, lay the cover on the top, press the crusts closely together, and tui-n o\'er the overlapping pastry that the gra\y may not escape. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, and either turn it out upon a hot dish, or serve in the basin in which it was boiled, with a napkin pinned round it. Time to boil, two hours. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Teal, Eoasted. Carefully pluck and draw the birds, and truss them like wild duck. Flour them w ell, and put them down before a brisk fire. Do not baste them, for the first two or three minutes, as this will help to keep the gxavy in ; afterwards baste them Liberally. len the birds are nicely browned, and the steam draws to the fire, they may be served. Put them on a hot dish, and serve with a httle brown gravy round them : send a little more gravy to table in a tureen. Sprinkle a pinch of cayenne on the breast, and squeeze a little lemon- juice upon it at the moment of serving. Send a cut lemon to table with the birds. A very good hash may be made of the remains of teal. Time to roast, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, teal being seldom oftered for sale. Sufficient, two for a dish. Teal, Stewed. Pluck, singe, and empty the birds, and truss them securely. Preserve the hearts, livers, and gizzards. Dredge the teal with flom-, \ \xi them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, let them brown equaUjaU over, and take care of the gravy which comes from them. Let them get cold, and if convenient keep them until the next day. Carve them in such a way that the wings and the legs shall be taken off, each with a portion of breast adhering to it. Break the bodies of the birds into small pieces, and stew them gently with the livers, hearts, and gizzards, in as much water or stock as will cover them, till the gravy is quite strong. Strain it, season with salt and cayenne, thicken with a little brown thickening, and add a glassful of claret, and, if liked, a little lemon or Seville orange- juice. As soon as it begins to boil, put into it the fleshy portion of the birds, and let them simmer until they are thoroughly heated, but the gravy must not boil after they are added. Cut slices of stale crumb of bread sufficiently large for a leg and a wing to lie on. Fry these till they are lightly browned, drain them, arrange them on a hot dish, place on each one a leg and a wing, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with green parsley and sliced lemon. Time, one hour and a half to make the gravy. Sufficient, one teal for two persons. Teetotaller's Christmas Pudding (see Christmas Pudding). Ten to One Pie [see Potato "Ten to One" Pie). Tench. The tench is more of a pond than a river fish, and is frequently met with in standing waters. It is best for the table when taken from the river. Though a much smaller fish than the carp (for it seldom weighs more TEN ( 965 ) TEN than four or five pounds), yet it resembles the latter fish in its fondness for muddy situations, which imparts an unpleasant flavour to the flesh. In order to free it from this it is often turned for a few days into clear water, and this removes all unpleasantness. Naturally its flesh is much richer and more delicious than that of the carp. It is in season from October to June. Tench., Baked. Clean and scale the tench very carefully, and remove the gills, as they are always muddy. Rub the fish with lemon- juice, and let it lie for an hoiir ; then put it into a tin, sprinkle over it two shallots finely minced, and pour over it four ounces of clarified butter or dripping. Cover with oiled paper, and let it bake gently until done enough. Baste frequently. Serve on a hot dish, and pom- over it a sauce prepared as foUows : Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour smoothly with three ounces of butter, and pour in a quarter of a pint of boiling water ; add gradually the third of a pint of milk or cream. Let the sauce boil up, then stir into it four moderate- sized ghei-kins finely minced and a table-spoonful of strained lemon -juice, and it will be ready for use. Serve verj' hot. Time to bake, an hour for a dish weighing two pounds. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two persons. Tench, Boiled. Scale, draw, and clean the fish carefully, and remove the gills. Take care of the melt or roe. Lift the back-bone, and rub in a little salt; then lay the tench in cold salted water for an hovu' or more, and afterwards rinse it in fresh water. Put it into a saucepan with as much boiling salted water as will cover it, and let it boil until done enough. Dish the fish on a napkin, garnish with curled parsley and slices of lemon, and send melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce to table in a tureen. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty minutes for a moderate-sized tench. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom olfered for sale. Tench, Broiled, with Fine Herbs. Wash, clean, and di'aw three or four tench, and lay them in boiling water for three minutes ; then scale them carefully from head to tail. Lay them on a dish, and sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, an onion, a finely-minced shallot, a table-spoonful of parsley chopped small, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Pour over the fish as much oil as will cover them, and let them lie for an hour or two. Wrap each fisb separately with the herbs, &c., in two thicknesses of writing-paper which has been dipped in the oil in which the fish was placed, and broil over a clear fire. When they are done enough, take off the paper, and serve on a hot dish, pouring piquant sauce over them. Time to broil, five to ten minutes, according to size. Tench, Choosing of. Barbel are easily mistaken for tench, and are sometimes sold as that fish. It is worth while observing, therefore, that tench, spawn in July, so if any fish, be sold for tench in INIarch or April, and proves to be full of spawn, it cannot be tench, but is a cheat upon the purchaser, and must be barbel. Tench is in season aU the year, but is most valued in the six winter months. Tench, Fried. Scale, draw, and clean the fish with gi-eat care, and remove the gills. Dry them well, and flour them, then put them into boiling fat, and when they are brown on one side turn them upon the other. Drain them on soft paper before the fire, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with crisped parsley, and send a little sauce to table with them in a tureen. Time to fry, six to twelve minutes, according to size. Tench, Fried (another way). After having scaled and emptied the tench, split the back of the fish, but take care not to touch the belly, for if you do it will divide. Let it pickle for "thi-ee hours in vinegar, salt, pepper, stalks of parsley, and onions. Then drain it, and dip it into flour. Fry of a fine colour and quite firm. The dripping must be very hot. This you try with a drop of water, which, beingthrown into the dripping, occasions a noise if it is in a proper state. Send it up to table on a cloth with fried parsley all roimd ; if you have a soft roe, fry it likewise, and serve it in the middle. Tench Pie. Butter a pie-disb rather thickly, and line the edges with a good crust. Put in the tench, season with, pepper' and salt, and grate a little nutmeg over it. Place small lumps of butter here and there upon it, and pour over it a little claret and water. Cover the dish with crust, and bake the pie in a wellheated oven. Have ready a little nicely-seasoned strong gravy, and when the pie is done enough, pour it in thi-ough the hole at the top. A good pie may be made with tench and eels. The fish should be cut into convenient-sized pieces, and placed in layers in the dish with a little pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and an anchovy cut small between each layer. Time to bake, about an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tench, Sauces for. Tench maybe served w4th melted butter, anchovy sauce, parsley sauce, poulette sauce, or with . a -n-hite sauce prepared as follows: Rub a large lump of butter to a smooth paste with a tea-spoonful of flour. Add a table-spoonful of water, and stir TEisr ( 966 ) THI the rnixtiiro over the fire for two minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint of thick cream, or, failing cream, use milk. Have a filleted anchovy finely minced. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boiling-, add a table-spoonful of Indian soy, pour it into a tureen, stir for a minute or two, put with it a little popper and salt and a table-spoonful of strained Icmon-j uice. Tenctl, Stewed. Take about two pounds of tench ; clean, scale, and draw the fish carefully, and remove the gills. Put six ounces of good dripping or butter into a stewpan with a mushroom chopped small, a sliced carrot, a finelj'-minced onion, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and two or three cloves. Stir these over a clear fire for six or eight minutes, then dredge over them a table-spoonful of flour, and pour in half a pint of stock or M-ater and the strained juice of two lemons. Put in the tench, and let it boil, then add half a tumblerful of claret, a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, a little salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Draw the saucepan to the side of tlie fire, and let its contents simmer very gently until done enough. Take the fish up, place it on a hot dish, and iiut it in the oven until the sauce is ready. Strain the sauce, skim carefully, pour it over the fish, and serve immediately with some toasted sippets, the roe fried, a little horseradish, and lemon. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom oft'ered for sale. Sufficient for two or tln-ee persons. Tench, Stewed (another way). Take three or four moderate-sized tench; clean, scale, and draw them, and cut them into convenientsized pieces. Put them in a stewpan with tliree or four large mushrooms chopped small, a dozen button onions, a blade of mace, two anchovies, a shallot, a tea-spoonful of mixed parsley, a pinch of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over them as much nicel)'flavoured stock as will cover them, add a glassful of port or claret, and simmer the fish gently for half an hour. Open a dozen oysters, beard them, and preserve their- liquor ; dip them for an instant into cold water ; put them into a saucepan for a few minutes with the liquor, and let them heat gonth- for thi-ee or four minutes, till they look plump. Tench, Stewed (another way) . Put them into a bowl, and leave a little of their liquor upon them to keep them moist. Strain the gTavy from the tench, place the fish on a hot dish, and keep it hot. Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and let it boil. Put the oysters and their liquor into it, but on no account allow it to boil after they are. gded. Pour the sauce over the fish, and serve hot. Garnish with fried sippets. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for tlu-ee or four persons. Tench, Stewed, with Poulette Sauce. Take about two pounds of tench ; draw and clean the fish carefully, and remove the gills. Put it into boiling water for three minutes, then remove the scales, and cut the fisli into convenient-sized pieces. Mix two ounces of butter and one ounce and a half of flour over a clear fire until quite smooth. Add as much common French wine or cider as will cover the fish, and let it boil for eight or ten minutes. Put with it a small bunch oi parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a moderate-sized onion, and a little pepper and salt. Add the fish, and let it stew gently over a slow fire until done enough. Strain the sauce, and mix part of it ?with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs in a basin, and pour it to the remainder. Stir it over a gentle fire until it is very hot without boiling, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Arrange the slices of tench upon a hot dish, povir the sauce over them, and servo very hot. The dish may be garnished with the fried roe, toasted sippets, and a little parsley and horseradish. Time to simmer the fish, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two or thi-ee persons. Tewahdiddle, Dr. Kitchiner's. Dr. Kitchiner recommends tliis preparation as one of the pleasantcst of beverages. Grate a little nutmeg into a pint of table beer, and add a small roll of thin lemon-rind, a little grated ginger, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a talile-spoonful of brandy. Stir the beverage until the sugar is dissolved, and drink it at once. Thickening. Sauces and soups may be thickened in various ways, and the dift'erent processes are spoken of in the professional nomenclature as liaisons ; thus we have liaisons of roux and liaisons of eggs. Soups are thickened also with A-egetables, and with farinaceous substances, such as sago and tapioca, and when these are used, they are generally boiled with the liquor, according to the directions given in each recipe. In oi-dinary domestic cookery, however, the word "thickening" is generally understood as specially denoting the brown or white thickening for sauces, made of flour and butter, and called by the French roux ; and as these preparations, though easy to make, require both time and care, detailed directions are here given for making them. Common cooks are accustomed to disjiense with this properly-prepared roux, and to thicken their sauces vith a hastily-made paste of flour, and to colour them with burnt sugar; the consequence is their sauces often taste either musty, gruelly, or burnt. Those who have not hitherto done so, would find it to their advantage to avail themselves of the first leisure hour they have at their disposal, to make a quantitj- of the true brown thickening, and then to put it aside to be used when required: it is as easy to make a large quantity as a small. The roux will keep for three or four months, and the sauces thickened with it are rich and brown in appearance. Thickening, Brown. Take a poimd of flour. Spread it on a newspaper or large dish, and dry it thoroughly before the fire, and afterwards sift it carefully. Put a pound of fresh butter into a stewj an over a gentle fire, and melt it very gradually. Skim carefully, nnd afterwards pour ofi: the portion that looks like clear oil, and leave untouched the white THI (967 ) THI thick substance which will have settled at the bottom. Pour the clear oiled butter into a clean stewpan, mix the diivd and sifted flour thoroughly and gradually with it, and beat it over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon until it forms a thick mass. Continue to stir it patiently until it is lightly coloured. Draw it to the side of the fire, and throw in vith it a slice of onion for flavouring, and do not cease to stir the mixture until it no longer bubbles. Take out the onion, pour the roux into an earthen jar, and let it get cold. It then will be ready for use. When wanted for thickening-, mix the roux with the sauce, and stir it till it boils. The sauce only attains its proper consistency after it has been stirred and boiled. This thickening may be mixed with either hot or cold liquor. If cold, stir it over the fire till it boils. If hot, moisten the roux gradually, and off the fire, with the sauce, then pour it into the remainder, and stir it over the fire till it boils. In order to cleanse sauce that has been thickened, that is, to remove the fat which has not become thoroughly incorporated with the gravy, di-aw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and throw in a small quantity of lukewarm water. The fat, &c., will rise to the surface, and may be removed with a spoon. Time to brown the roux, about an hour. A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. Thickening, Brown (M. Ude's way). Put into a stewpan a piece of butter proportionate to the quantity of thickening intended to be prepared. Melt it gently ; take out the buttermilk, then put flour enough to make a paste. Fry it on a slow fire, and then put it again over very red ashes till it be of a nice colour. Observe, this is to be obtained only by slow degrees. When of a light brown poui- it into an earthen pan, and preserve for use. It will keep a long time. Thickening of Egg. Boil the sauce, and take it oif the fire for two minutes that it may partially cool. Beat the yolks of the eggs, and mix them with a spoonful of cold broth or water and a small portion of the hot sauce, Stir them briskly to the remainder of the sauce, and continue stirring over the fire until it is very hot. It must not boil or it will cui-dle. Thickening of Farinaceous Substances. Occasionally arrowroot, ground rice, or flour without butter, is used to thicken soups and sauces. In this case put the thickening substance into a basin, moisten gradually with a little cold stock, water, or milk, and beat it with the back of a spoon until no lumps are to be found in it. With one hand pour this batter into the soup or sauce, which should be boiling quickly at the time, and vith the other stir it bi-iskly. Let it boil for a few minutes, and it will be ready for serving. Invalids and persons of delicate taste often object strongly to butter in their sauces. Thickening, Quickly made (for immemediate use). "When it is wished to thicken sauces, and brown thickening is not at hand, dissolve half an ounce of butter, and then mix smoothly with it a table-spoonful of flour. Stir it quickly over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon for three minutes, moisten gradually with a pint of stock or broth, let it boil three or four minutes, season properly, and it will bo ready for use. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Thickening, Simple, for ordinaryBrown Soup. Put a breakfast-cupful of stock into a saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of sage, a quarter of an ounce of chopped onion, a quarter of an ounce of grated lemon-peel, and two ounces of celery. Let these simmer gently for half an hour, strain the liquor, and rub the herbs through a fine sieve. Dissolve six ounces of butter, and incorporate with it, gradually and thoroughly, six ounces of di'ied flour. Stir it quickly over a gentle fire till it is lightly browned. Moisten the mixture with the liquor from the herbs, and it will be ready for the soup, which ought to boil for an hour after it is added. Suitable seasoning will of course be required in addition. Time, thi'ce-quarters of an hour. Sufiicient for five quarts of soup. Thickening, White, for Sauces. In making white thickening for sauces, follow exactly the directions given for making Brown Thickening, remembering only that the mixture mu.st not be allowed. to colour. In order to prevent this it must be baked over a very gentle fire, and it must not remain on the fire so long as in the former case. A\Tien done enough it must be turned into an earthen jar, and set aside for use. White thickening is used for thickening white sauces. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sufiicient, a dessert-spoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. Thickening with Blood (occasionally used with poultry and game, especially hare). Be careful not to use the blood until it is cool. Boil whatever sauce is to be thickened with it, then take it oft" the fire for two minutes. Mix the blood gradually with a small portion of this in a basin separately, and afterwards add it to the rest. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is very hot. It must not boil after the blood is added, or it will curdle. Thickening with Butter or Butter and Cream. Although it is usual to speak of thickening sauce or soup with butter or butter and cream, these articles do not by themselves serve to thicken the liquor, but onlj' to make it smooth and rich. A little cold butter added at the last moment to sauce greatly improves its flavour ; but it should be remembered that it must not be put in until the sauce is poured into the tureen in which it is to bo served, and that then it should be stirred until it is dissolved. In the same way, butter or a mixture of butter and cream may be added to soups. Thistle-heads with Marrow.-- Proceed as recommended in the recipe Thistle-heads with Spanish Sauce. Take a few pieces of beef marrow, all of a size, which put in warm water to draw out all the blood. When thoroughly disgorged, blanch and stew them in water with a little salt and a few slices of lemon to keep them white. When done, drain in a clean towel, and put them into the essence, which is some Espagnolo reduced. Drain the fat, and do not forget to add a little sugar, which is THI ( 968 ) THY requisite in all dishes of cardons, as it improves them greatly, cardons being not unfrequently bitter. Thistle Heads with Spanish Sauce. "This dish," says M. Ude, " requires great attention and no small share of skill in the art of cooking. It is not much relished in England, but in France it is held in the highest estimation. It is always one of those selected to try the skill of a cook. * ' Select a few heads, or cardons, all very -white. Cut each leaf into strips six ruches long, with the exception, however, of those that ai-e hollow, which are tough and thready Beard them of their prickles, and blanch them by putting the thickest leaves into boiling water. After boiling them a few minutes, put in the leaves of the heart; turn the middle stalks into the shape of large olives, and blanch them likewise. Then try a piece in cold water, to see whether the slime which is on the surface vill come off by rubbing. If so, take them off the fire immediately, and throw them into cold water, as they are done enough ; or you may cool the boiling water by pouring in cold water till you are able to bear your hand in it to rub oft' all the slime. This being done, wash them clean, and throw the cardons into a blanc, boil them once, and leave them in the blanc. jMind not to let them be too much done. You must ascertain when, they are done by thrusting in the point of your knife, and if it enters easily they are done enough. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a sufficient quantity. Pare both extremities, and mask them in a stewpan with fonr spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, fomspoonfuls of consomme, a little salt, and a little sugar. Let them boil over a sharp fire that they may not be done too much ; and be sure to skim off all the fat. Dish them nicely. Strain the sauce through a tamis before you mask them. Send them up to table quite hot, with a cover over them to prevent their getting dry. The cardons mix very well with eggs, and when you have any retirmed from table they will warm up again very well, if you are particular in taking them off to put them immediately into the larder : in case they are too much done, use them to make les cenfs brouUUs (poached eggs), which you should make only when you have cardons left from the parlour. This is a capital entremet, and may be selected as one of the finest efforts of cookery." Thornbaek. Tliis fish is a species of skate. It grows to the length of two feet, and its flesh is considered excellent food. It is in the highest perfection during the autumn and winter months. It is very common on the English and Irish coasts. The parts which may be called the wings of the thornbaek should be cut in strips and laid in salt and water for a day or two to take away the raw coarse taste which belongs to them when freshly dressed. Thornbaek, Boiled. Take a thornbaek of tolerable size, clean it with scrupulous care, and skin it. Lay the part usually eaten in the fish-kettle, cover it with cold water, and add two ounces of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar to two quarts of water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it well, and let it boil gently until the flesh will part easily from the bone, which is a sign that it is sufficiently dressed. Lift the fish out carefully and drain it. Serve on a dish covered with a hot napkin, and garnish with green parsley and sliced lemon. Send melted butter or anchovy sauce to table in a tureen. If liked, the fins of the fish may be fried separately. Time to boil, from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to size. THOBNBACE. Thornbaek, Fried. Clean and skin the fish, cut the part which is usually eaten into slices about an inch thick, and diy them with a soft cloth. Dredge them with flour, and let them lie for half an hour or more. Fry them in hot fat until they are brightly browned, and when they are done upon one side turn them upon the other. Drain them on blotting-paper to clear them from fat, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. If preferred, the slices may be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs instead of being floured before they are fried. Time to fry, ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost, variable, but generally inexpensive. Thrush. The thrush was perhaps the most popular bird at deKcate tables in ancient Greece. They were not given to young people for fear their exquisite flavom: might give birth to premature greediness ; but when a girl married she was sure of a brace of thrushes for her own special eating on her wedding-day. In Rome the birds were still more popular : patrician ladies reared thousands of thrushesyearly for the market, and men ruined themselves in providing dishes composed of these birds for their guests. Thyme. Thyme is a herb much valued on account of its strong, pungent, aromatic odour and taste. Three varieties are used in cookery common thyme, lemon thyme, and orange thyme. Lemon thj-me and common thyme should be dried at the end of July and during August. Orange thjTne is ready a little earlier, and may be dried in June and July. Although thvme IS most valuable for flavouring when TIM ( 969 ) TIM judiciously used, it is apt to impart a bitter taste to any preparation to which it is added in ¦00 large quantities. Timbale for Macaroni, &c. The paste for a hot timbale should be a little more delicate than for a cold pie ; therefore put more butter into it. Take a pound of flour, a little more than half a pound of butter, two yolks of eggs, and a pinch of salt. Work this with half a glassful of water, making the paste as smooth as possible ; proceed then as follows : Butter a plain mould all over well, decorate the "bottom a little and the sides by using some of the same paste and adding some pounded sugar; the paste will take a browner colour, and will add to the appearance of the timbales. Spread the paste over a dresser, cut a piece the size of the bottom of the mould (using the mould to measiu-e with), and cover the bottom of the mould and all the decorations without disturbing them ; water the ornamented paste as above, then stick the other paste lightly over, and cut a bit to put all round over the decorated parts. Roll a little paste also to stick the whole together round the bottom, then fill the mould with beef suet chopped fine, and make a cover to it of the same length; put this into the oven for an hour, and when done empty it for rise. It may be used for macaroni, fricassee, blanquettes of every kind, &c. &c. Timbale of Macaroni. Put half a pound of the best tape macaroni in a stewpan with three pints of boiling water and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, then cb-ain it, put it back with half a pint of broth, and let it simmer until it will di\'ide easilj- without being too soft. Cut it into short lengihs of uniform size, and cover the inside of a thickly-buttered mould with it quite closely and neatly. Spread over the macaroni a little good forcemeat seasoned suitably to whatever is to constitute the contents of the timbale, and afterwards fill up the mould ?ith a highly-seasoned mince of game or poultry. Moisten with good sauce, cover over the preparation, and let it simmer gently until done 66 enough. If liked, three or four small timbalos may be made instead of one large one, and their appearance may be varied by placing a truffle in the centre of the mould so that it will be at the top when the timbale is turned out. These small timbales have a pretty appearance. A suitable sauce should be sent to table with them. Minced game of all kinds, minced sweetbreads, and minced ox palates are suitable for the interior of timbales. Time to simmer, nearly an hour. Probable cost, varying with the contents. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Timbale, Veal and Ham. Make two pounds of good short pastry, such as would bo suitable for meat pies, and with two-thirds of this line a well-buttered plain round mould. Cut three pounds of the fillet of veal into pieces an inch square, and make three-quai-ters of a pound of good veal forcemeat. Fill the pie with alterncce layers of the veal, thin rashers of fat bacon, the forcemeat and dressed ham, and season each layer separately and rather highly. EoU out the remainder of the paste, and cover the tmibale. Press it down, and trim neatly. Poll out the trimmings, and stamp out leaves or any fancj'' shapes, and with them ornament the sm-face. Brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a weU-heated oven. About twenty minutes before the timbale is done, take i; out, and pour in through the hole at the top a little nicely-seasoned dissolved aspic jelly made of the bones and trimmings of the veal stewed down with a cow-heel. The veal wiU be much improved if it is larded with the bacon instead of having the latter simply laid upon it. If it should be preferred, any kind of nicely-seasoned fricassee may be used instead of the veal and ham. Time to bake, from two to three hours. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven pex'sons. Timbales. Timbales are French dishes, so named from timbale, a metal cup, because they are generally made in plain moulds, either round or oval. They are excellent and pretty, but difficult to make, as they require both care and pi-actice to make them properly. They rather resemble our raised pies. The outer case may be constructed of short paste, macaroni, rice, or other substances, and they may be fiUed with any nicely-flavoured fricassee of fowl or game, or with fruit and sweetmeats. Two or three simple recipes are given here, which may be varied according to taste. Timbales of Rice witli Pruit. Wash a quarter of a pound of best Carolina rice, drain it on a hair sieve, and put it in a clean saucepan with a pint of cold new milk, a pinch of salt, and three or four large lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of a fresh lemon or a Se\dlle orange to extract the flavour. Put the saucepan at the side of the fire that the rice may swell very slowly and gradually ; then stir it well, put it on the fire, add a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and let the rice boil gently until it has absorbed all the milk and is so tender that it can be crushed to a smooth paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Unless it is allowed to boil very gently and till it is quite di-y it will not answer the TIM ( 970 ) TIN purpose. Have ready some small buttered cups, beat the rice well, press it into the cups while it is still warm, and let it remain in them until quite cold. Boil the strained juice of a large fresh lemon with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to a clear syrup, and slice into this six apples peeled and cored. Let them simmer gently until reduced to pulp, take them off the lire for a minute or two, and stir gradually into them the weU-beaten yolks of four eggs. Beat them over the fire for two minutes, then let them cool. Turn the rice out of the moulds. If it is found to be at all difficult to do this, set the cups in hot water for a minute or two, again reverse them on a baking-tin, and with the point of a sharp knife carefully scoop out a hollow in the centre of each. Fill this with the prepared apples, and brush the timbales all over with the white of egg whisked to a froth and mixed with powdered and sifted sugar. Pour as much of this icing as is left upon the fruit, and bake the timbales in a well-heated oven. Serve very hot. Time to bake the timbales, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for a small dish. Timbales, Small (for all sorts of Entrees) . Butter eighteen dariole-moulds thoroughly, spread some trimmings of puff paste on the dresser, cut with a cutter a round of paste large enough to fill the mould, have a bit c paste of the same form as the inside of the mould, but not so large ; put the round piece over the latter, let it fall all round, and then introduce this into the mould. Press equally everywhere with your finger to keep the paste the same thickness, cut off all the paste that is above the rim, fiU the mould with trimmings of paste, and init on a false cover to prevent the border of the paste from taking a bad colour. A dozen is always sufficient, except when the dishes are very large. Bake them of a good colour ; when done, empty all the inside, and garnish with whatever you may think proper. For 2)ates an Jus (with gravy), fill the inside with godiveau, and bake them with false covers. When done, take off the cover, and open them ?with a knife to let in a spoonful of Espagnole sauce, then cover them with small covers made of puff paste that you have been particular to make of the pi'oper size and a good colour, and serve xip very hot. It is almost needless to say that the same paste and the same preparation will serve for a dozen different sorts, such as salpicon, soft roe of mackerel, lobster, sweetbread, fat liver and truffles, soft roe of cod, turbot, sole, &:c. Udc. Timbales, Small (for Fruit, Jelly, or Cream). AVeigh three large fresh eggs, and then take their weight in flour and half their weight in powdered sugar. Break the eggs, and separate the yolks and the whites. Beat the yolks in a basin, and add to them first the sugar and afterwards the flour. When they are thoroughly mixed, and just before the timbales are to be baked, add the well-whisked whites of the eggs, and a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Drop the paste in small lumps upon a buttered baking-tin, and hollow these in the centre like a cup. Bake them in a slow oven, and when they are done enough, trim them to a neat shaj e. Keep them in a dry, warm place until wanted ; and when they are to be served fill them with fruit, jelly, or flavoured cream. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, without the contents, 2d. each. Sufficient for a small dish. Tinned Meats, Australian. The following original recipes (one hundred in number) are the result of several years' experience in the use of Austrahan meats. Against these considerable prejudice exists, owing, to a great extent, to the fact that few know how to cook them projierly. If the recipes here given, however, are followed, it -N all be found easy, even for a cook of moderate abilities, to prepare from Australian meats a succession of tasty as well as digestible and nourishing dishes. On p. 977 the names of the various recipes will be found in alphabetical order, so that any particular one may be referred to with ease. 1. Soup with Forcemeat Balls. Boil half a pound of the lean of Australian mutton or beef in two quarts of water for half an hour with two ounces of chopped carrots, one ounce of chopped onions, a little celery, a blade of mace, using pepper and salt to season. Have ready forcemeat balls made of equal parts of finely-chopped meat, bacon, breadcrumbs, flour, and an egg to bind the mixture together. Roll into balls an inch in diameter, fry in a little Australian fat ; strain the soup ; brown it whilst at boiling point ; place the balls in a tureen, and pour the soup on them. 2. Beef Tea. Turn out a tin of Australian beef. Take a tea-cupful of the clear jelly without a imrticlo of fat, melt in the oven, season with pepper and salt, and brown with a few drops of colouring. Toast a thin slice of bread crisply, cut into dice, and serve in the tin or on a small plate. 3. JIiTTON Broth. Take the required quantity of jelly from a shape of mutton, add a pint of boiling water, season wath pepper and salt ; thicken with one tea-spoonful of corn-flour, add a pinch of nutmeg, and serve with dried toast. 4. Sovp, Julienne. Proceed as for Soup with Forcemeat Balls (see No. 1), but instead of forcemeat balls prepare carrots, turnips, and parsnips, by scraping, peeling, and washing them; cut them in thin slices, and again into thin strips ; boil until tender in the soup, which must first be strained ; brown, and thicken with a table-si oonful of corn-flour. In summer, any kind of vegetable may be added lettuce or French beans, &c. 5. Soup, Pea. Prepare the stock as for Soup with Forcemeat ? Balls {set; No. 1), and thicken with a quarter of a pound of SjTnington's Prepared Pea Powder. Cut toasted bread into dice, fry crisply in Australian fat, place in the tureen, and pour the soup on it. 6. Irish Stew. Boil six onions sliced in a quart of water with six large potatoes peeled and cut in half; pepper and salt pretty freely. When boiled tender, but not broken, thicken the gravy with. TIN (971) TIN flour and brown it ; then take small pieces about three inches square and one inch thick of Australian mutton, pepper and salt them, and turn them over and over until well covered in flour ; fry in a little fat, place in the centre of the dish, put the potatoes round and a few over the meat, pour over the gravy, and serve. A few light dumplings, made with one teaspoonful of baking powder to a pound of flour, may be served with the stew. 7. Mutton, Haricot or. Fry pieces of Australian mutton as dii-ected in recipe No. 6, and place in a dish in the centre. Have ready some boiled carrots, cut them in slices, and fry after the meat; then make a gravj with a little stock, coloured, seasoned, and thickened, which pour over the carrots in the stewpan. Boil up oVer the fire, and pour round the meat. 8. Mutton, Curried. Boil one pound of pickled pork in a quart of water for tliree-quarters of an hoiu- with four small onions and a sprig of thyme ; then cut into neat slices the pork and two pounds of Australian mutton : lay the whole in a stewpan. Reduce the liquor in which the pork was boiled one-half, skim free from fat, mix with it one tea-spoonful of curry powder, pulp the onions with a table-spoonful of flour, slice one sharp apple very thin and also one tomato, boil ten minutes, put into the curry, stir- gently to mix it well without breaking the meat too much, and serve with a rim of boiled rice. 9. Mutton*, Dry Curried. Fry a sliced onion till brown in Australian fat ; cut Australian mutton across the grain in small dice, mix it with the fried onion, and fry both till hot through, stirring as little as possible ; sprinkle over lightly half a tea-spoonful of curry powder, salt and pepper to taste, mix well together, pour over two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, stir till dry, and serve. 10. Beef (au Diable). Cut inch-thick slices, across the grain, of beef, cover them with the following mixture, and fry : One spoonful of made mustard, ditto chutnee, ditto anchovy, double the quantity of salad oil, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. 11. Pudding, Eoll. Make a crust of one pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, half a pound of relied and rubbed suet, one tea-spoonful of baking powder, and water sufficient to make it into not too stiff a paste. Eoll it out half an inch thick, and spread over it a layer of minced Australian seasoned with pepper and salt, one shallot finely minced, and a quarter of a pound of minced ham or bacon, all mixed thoroughly together. Let this be spread on the paste half an inch thick, then roll up as for a jam roll, tie in a wetted and floured cloth, and boil one hour and a half ; turn out, garnish with parsley, and servo thick brown gravy over the pudding. 12. Pudding (au Gratin). Mix well together one pound of flour, half a pound of bread-crumbs, one tea-spoonful of baking powder, one jiound of minced Australian, a quarter of a poimd of chopped ham or good bacon, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season, a I quarter of a jDOund of rolled and rubbed suet, I two eggs well beaten, and half a pint of milk. ' Have ready a buttered puddiag-basin, pour in I the mixture, cover with a wetted and floured cloth, tie doven tightly, and boil one hour I and a quarter. Serve with rich brown gravy I round it. 13. Pudding, Boiled. Make a crust as for No. 11 ; roll out half an inch thick, hne a buttered basin, and put in it small pieces of cross-grain-cut mutton, over the first layer sprinkle pepper and salt, and put thinly-sliced boiled potatoes ; repeat alternately until you have fiUed the basin, then pour in a mixture made of a tea-cupful of water or stock, a tea-spoonful of Harvey Sauce, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of chutnee, and a little colouring. Cover up with crust, tie down wdth a floured cloth, and boil an hour and a half. Serve with a boat of brown gravy. lA. Pudding, Forcemeat. Soak a pound of bread in milk ; beat it up smooth with half a pound of forcemeat, thg yolks of two eggs, and seasoning if required. When ready to laake, stir in the whites of the eggs beaten well. Bake in a greased pie-dish half an hour. 15. Forcemeat. Cut a pound of fresh pork into tliin slices. Jlix two ounces of fine bread-crumbs with a tea-spoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, and ditto of dried and rubbed sage ; poiu- over the meat a tea-cupful of good gravy made from Australian meat. When you have thoroughly mixed the pork and the seasoning, add one j)ound of Australian mince ; mix all well together, and use as required. 16. Forcemeat Balls. Flour your hands : take a table-spoonful of forcemeat, roll into balls, fry in Australian fat about seven minutes. Serve on a napkin with a garnish of parsley and a little good thick brown gravy in a boat. 17. Sausages. Fill small skins with forcemeat highly seasoned, prick and fry in Australian fat. Serve on buttered toast dipped in hot broth. 18. Pudding, Sausage. Prepare a crust as for No. 11; fill with skinned sausages, pour in half a tea-cupful of good gravy, lay on the top some slices of good bacon fried, cover all with crust; tie, and boil an hour and a half. 19. Sausages, Bologna. Take equal quantities of fat and lean bacon, veal, pork, and beef suet, and double the quantity of Austialian beef ; chop fine in a mincing machine, season with pepper and salt and dried sage rubbed. Have I'eady a well- washed skin, fill and prick, boil an hour, and lay on straw to dry. These sausages may be smoked Uke hams. 20. Toad-in-a-Hole Forcemeat. If you have more than will fill a skin of No 19, put a layer in a greased pie-dish, then a layer of beaten-up bread soaked for an hour in milk, and so on till the pic-dish is full ; pour over it a batter made of five ? TIN (972) TIN of flom-, foui- table-spoonfuls of cold water, a small pinch of salt, a pint of new milk, and two tggs well-beaten. Bake in a moderately hot oven. 21. Toad in a Hole. Pour the batter No. 20 over layers of Australian mutton and very thin slices of crumb of bread placed alternately in a buttered piedisk and seasoned. Bake for an hour-, and serve with a boat of good gravy. 22. Pudding, Beep and Kidney. Prepare a crust as for No. 1 1 ; line a greased basin with it, and place hi it alternate layers of sUces of beef cut an inch thick and well seasoned, and of thioly-sUced kidneys (o. kidneys do very well for this purpose, they are larger and cheaper) , a little tinely-minced shallot, and a tea-cupful of good gravy. When the dish is full, cover with crust, and boil an hour and a half. Serve some brown gravy with the pudding. 23. Beef Fkied with Suet Dumplings. Cut some nice tidy pieces of beef across the grain, flom- them well, pepper and salt them, and then fry in Australian fat till of a nice brown ; place in a hot dish, and put it in the oven to keep hot tiU you have the dumplings ready, j Roll up a table-sjioonful of paste [see 'So. 11) j in well-floured hands, and drop into a fiercely- ' boiling sauccjjan of water ; as they rise, take them out, and laj' them round the meat in the dish, pour a Httle thick brown gravy over, and servo. 24. Mutton Fried with Suet Pudding. Fry mutton in slices as the beef is done in No. 23. Cut a boiled suet pudding made as the crust in No. 1 1 into slices, fry hghtly if just boiled and hot it will only require a short time to fry lay it round the meat, pour gravy over, and serve. 25. Mutton with Sausages. ' Prepare the meat as in the two foregoing recipes. Fry some sausages cut in short lengths and pricked in Australian fat, place them on the meat, and serve with brown gravy poured over. i 26. Mutton with Bacon. Prepare the meat as before ; and place on each piece a nicely-fried piece of bacon. Pour over it the following sauce : First prepare of chopped gherkins, capers, and shallots, one table-spoonful each ; put in a pan with a little i pepper and one wine-glassful of vinegar ; let it boil four minutes, then add rather more than half a pint of good stock, a table-spoonful of flour, a little colouring, a piece of batter the size of a nut,' and one tea-spoonful of anchovy ; boU, and stir well. 27. Beef fried in Batter. Cut some tidy pieces of beef an inch thick, floirr weU, and dip in a batter made according to No. 20. Have ready some boiling fat in a frying-pan, lay in the pieces of meat gently, so as not to break them ; fry a light brown, and serve with a boat of gravy. [ 28. Beef with Savoury Pudding. Fry the beef as in recipe No. 23, and place j round the dish in neat slices the following i I savoury pudding : Pour boiling milk on some bread rubbed fine, add four large table-spoonfuls of fine oatmeal, two well beaten eggs, pepper and salt, a little onion chopped fine, dried and rubbed sage and sweet marjoram, half a tea-spoonful of each. The compound should be as stiif as thick batter. Beat all well together, and bake in a di-ipping-pan an inch thick, cut up like Yorkshire pudding, and servo with good gravy. 29. Beef (au Fromage). Mince finely a pound of Austrahan beef, season it with pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a chopped shallot ; boil some macaroni tender in broth, lay the mince in a pie-dish, cover with the macaroni, pour on it a tea-cupful of the broth, popper it, and grate two ounces of cheese over it. Bake a quarter of an hour in a hot oven, 30. Beef (au Macaroni). Mince as in Beef au Fromage. Lay the meat in a shallow pie-dish, boil some macaroni in broth with a shallot ; when tender, lay it over the meat, pour on it a tea-cupful of the broth, cover with a plate, and heat it thi'ough in the oven. 31. Beef (au Gratin). Mince two pounds of beef, mix with it half a poimd of minced bacon, season the whole with pepper and salt and nutmeg; lay it in a shallow dish, spread grated bread-crumbs over it half an inch thick, bake half an hour, and serve, putting the dish in another before sending to table. 32. Meat with Potato Cover. Mince some Australian mutton, season with pepper and salt, mix with it a tea-cupful of broth, and put it in a shallow dish. Boil some mealy potatoes, mash them, beat them u}) with an egg, a bit of butter, and a little milk ; spread this mi.xture smoothly over the meat, and bake till of a golden brown. 33. Potato Pie. Put into a pie-dish alternate layers of sliced meat and sliced potatoes, pepper and salt it (a few button mushrooms are a great addition); pour in a tea-cupful of thickened gravy, cover it with mashed potatoes as for No. 32 ; mark it over with a three-pronged fork, and bake half an hour in a brisk oven. 34. Potato Wall. Mash some potatoes as for No. 32 ; pile them round the inside of a meat-dish, raised up three inches high and two and a half inches thick. Smooth the sui-face of the wall with a knife, and brush over with the yolk of an egg beaten ; fill up the hollow inside with a well-seasoned mince, and bake half an hour. 35. Potato Rissoles. Have ready well-seasoned mince mixed with a fourth of its own weight in bread-crumbs, roll a piece into a ball, cover it with mashed l otato prepared as in No. 32 ; flour well, and fry a nice brown colour in Australian fat. 36. Rice Rissoles. Take a tea-cupful of well-washed rice, leave it to soak twenty minutes in cold water ; strain TIN (973) TIN the water off, and add three tea-cupfuls of cold water to the rice with a little salt ; set it on the fire, and by the time it boils the rice will be nearly di-cssed. Pour the contents of the saucepan into a colander, set it on a saucepan on a stove for ten or fifteen minutes, covering well with a clean cloth this will absorb the steam and leave the rice dr}' and whole. Take some mince i repared as in No. 35, roll into balls, and cover with the rice mixed with a well-beaten egg ; flour, and fry a very light brown. Serve on a napkin with parsley. 37. KissoLES. Prepare the mince as for No. 35, flour the balls, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with good thick gravy. 38. ElSSOLETTE. Prepare mince as for No. 35, adding a small quantity of chopped suet, a chopped onion, and two eggs ; mix well together. Add one teacupful of stock, and pour into a greased piedish. Bake till crisp outside, turn on to a flat dish, and serve with gravy in a boat. 39. Mince on Toast. Prepare the mince as for No. 35, season with a little anchovy, half a tea-spoonful of chutnee, a pinch of sage, and a little cream. Stir it in a stewpan over the fire with a dessert-spoonful of corn-flour, and put it when quite hot on to buttered toast in small squares of four inches. 40. Open Mince Tart. Prepare mince as in No. 39. Make a short paste, line a flat dish as for an open jam tart, the edge well raised, and fill it with the mince. Cut out of the paste a few leaves or other ornaments. Bake separately, and when the tart is baked and ready for sending to table, put the leaves on it regularly. 41. Mince in Scallops. Butter half a dozen scallop-shells, fill them with the mince No. 39, strew them with breadcrumbs thickly. Bake, and serve on a napkin. ! 42. Mince with Poached Eggs. I Line a flat dish with mince No. 39 ; poach half a dozen eggs, place them regularly on the mince, fry a few strips of bacon, and put them round just before serving. I 43. Mince and Spinach. ! Put a border of mince No. 39 round a flat meat-dish, and fill the centre with spinach boiled without water, chopped fine, peijpered and salted, and with which two table-spoonfuls of cream have been mixed. Serve very hot. 44. Omelet w th Mince. Make an omelet thus : Put half an ounce i of butter into the pan, pour gently in two eggs well beaten with a table-spoonful of milk, a j little chopped parsley, a Httle chopped shallot, j pepper and salt ; do not stir for half a minute, i then stir all up tcircther, and in two minutes it will be done. Slide on to a dish, and fold 1 double, first placing on haK a small quantity ' of mince No. 39 made quite hot. Garnish with ; parsley, and serve. 45. Hachis au pois. Cut some neat slices of mutton, place on a dish, pepper and salt, cover with another dish, I and heat thoroughly in the oven. Have ready some peas those that are rather old will do let them be well stewed with pepper and salt in Australian broth. When done, mix two tablespoonfuls of corn-flour with them, a tablespoonful of any hot sauce, a leaf of mint dried and rubbed, some colouring ; stir till thick, pour I round the meat, and serve. j 46. Mince with Hard-boiled Eggs. I _ Prepare mince No. 39, place it round a flat t dish; boil thi-ee eggs ten minutes, sheU and halve them. Have ready some nice white sauce, lay the half eggs on the mince at regular distances, and pour over the white sauce, having previously filled the hollow of the dish with a rocky pile of mashed potato. 47. Feitadella with "White Sauce. Fry some well-seasoned and well-floured pieces of mutton, breaking as Httle as possible. Place in a flat dish, and cover with a nice white sauce. Put slices of pickled beetroot over, and serve. 48. Fritadellas. Prepare mince No. 39 ; roll into balls, fry, and place on a flat dish, pour some good white sauce over, and serve with a garnish of parsley, and place some small balls of mashed potato [see No. 32) fried alternately round. 49. Fried Meats. Either mutton or beef is very good cut into thick slices, peppered and salted, and well floured. Break an egg, beat it up, and mix with two ounces of bread-crumbs on a flat plate ; cover the pieces of meat with it, and fry in boiling fat a nice brown. Lay in a dish, cut some cold boiled potatoes in thin slices, and fry them after the meat tiU of a light brovra. Lay them lightly over the meat, and serve. 50. Breast of Mutton (a TAustralienne). Bone a breast of mutton, flatten it out weU, lay over it mince made of Australian mutton weU seasoned, rell it up very tightly, and tie securely with tape. Bake in a quick even, and serve, after untying it, with this sauce: Cut up into very small square pieces an ounce of lean ham or bacon, the same quantity of carrot, celery, and onion, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, twenty peppercorns, and a bit of mace. Fry these the size of a walnut in fat till the whole gets well browned ; add a wine-glassful of vinegar, half a wine-glassful of ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. When this has boiled to haK its quantity add one pint of melted butter coloured brown, two tablespoonfuls of stock, and a wine-glassful of sherry. Boil gently, remove the grease, and strain. 51. Bubble and Squeak. Prepare some mince {see No. 31) ; put it into a round basin, and then into the oven to keep warm. Boil some cabbage tender, chop it up, and stir over the fire in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and pepper and salt till well heated. Then turn out the meat on to a dish, lay the cabbage round it half way up the shape of meat, place some strips of boiled bacon aU round that part of the meat that is left uncovered, and sen-e. TIN (974) TIN 52. Bouillabaisse. i Divide two Portugal onions in quarters, and I having shred these, fry tliem in a stewpan with ; two table-spoonfuls of oil, then add two tea- ; spoonfuls of pepper, a little salt, and a quart of water. Boil hve minutes, and add some Australian beef cut in dice. Heat well through, j and serve A'ery hot. 53. Beef Collops. Cut small slices about two inches across, and fry in fat on both sides. Hhake a little floui- ? in, add a dozen oysters, a httlo Harvey, lemonjuice, pepper, and one tea-spoonful of anchovy. Simmer over the fire ten minutes, and dish up. ' Mushrooms, olives, or gherkins may be used ' instead of oysters, and a little sherry may be added in this case. 54. CoLLOPS (a la Sauce Eobert). Prepare the collops as in Xo. 53, and serve 1 them with this sauce : Chop two onions very ? fine, fry till of a light brown, add a wine-glassful of vinegar and a good pinch of pepper. Boil together five minutes ; then add one tablespoonful of floiu', two of corn-flour, half a pint of water, and a bit of butter. Stir over the fire for twenty minutes, add one table-spoonful of French mustard, one table-spoonful of Harvey Sauce, one tea-spoonful of anchovJ Mix ?well over the fire, and serve. 55. Eagout de Milan. Cut into inch lengths by half an inch square the following, ready cooked, viz., macaroni, beef, ham, tongue, mutton, chicken, game, or veal. Prepare in equal lots as much as is wanted, put it in a stew jan with a little good white sauce, about one ounce of grated cheese, and a little pepper and nutmeg. Toss over the fire till quite hot, and serve. 56. Capilotade op Beef on Mutton. Cut up in neat slices beef or mutton, flour and pepper and salt them, put aside on a plate ; then chop fine about two table-spoonfuls of piccahlli and two table-spoonfuls of its liquor. Put in a stewpan with a wine-glassful of ketchup, reduce by boiling to half, then add the meat, a glass of sherry, and a giU of gravy. Boil gently five minutes, and serve. 57. Beef and Hakicot Beans. Prepare the meat as in Xo. 56 ; prepare the beans as follows : Shell a pint of the large white sort (they should lie in water all night) , put them in sufficient water to cover them -nath an ounce of Australian fat. Let them boil tiU quite tender (they will take three hours) ; rub through a wire sieve they should be very thick season nicelj', add one ounce of butter, and return to the stewpan. Stir till hot, and serve roimd the beef. 58. MiiioTON OF Beef. Cut six onions into thin slices, fry in two ounces of fat till brown; add one table-spoonful of flom-, nearly one pint of water, and ketchup ; pejiper and salt to season ; stir over the fire to boil ten minutes, and pour over the beef dished up in slices; strew raspings over it, bake a quarter of an hour, and serve hot. A spoonful of chutnee wiU be found a great improvement. 59. Mutton avitk French Beans. Prepare some mutton as in recipe No. 23 ; lay it in a flat dish. Boil French beans till tender, strain the water off, and stir them in the pan in which the meat has been fried with one ounce of butter, pepper and salt, half a pint of thickened brown gravy. Pour round the meat, and serve. GO. Smoking Chimney. This recipe requires a tin shape, with a tin lid fitting to the top, through which a funnel like a cottage chimney rises. Cut beef or mutton in dice, stir over the fire with a tablespoonful of Harvey Sauce, four table-spoonfuls of gravy, a boiled and cut-up onion, and two table-spoonfuls of flour, one ounce of butter, a few cooked mushrooms, and pepper and salt to season. Put this in the lower part of the tin. On the lid place a layer of mashed potato raised like a cottage roof ; the steam from below will rise through the funnel, and give the effect 'of a smoking chimney. 61. Beef with Sheep's Liver. Cut up thick slices of beef and thin slices of liver, pepper and salt both, and flour them well. Put the liver into a dripping-pan with equal slices of good bacon and a pint of water ; cover them with very thin slices of onion ; let them cook thoroughly, stirring them every flve minutes, and flouring them well each time. When the liver is thoroughly done put in the beef ; stir about gently to give it the flavour of the gravj-, and when quite hot serve. 62. Sheep's Heart, Stuffed. Prepare some forcemeat as in recipe No. 15 ; stuff the hearts with it not too f uU, or the stufflng will burst out. Brush the hearts over with milk, and roll in flour. Fry them in a little fat and turn them about on all sides till nicely browned ; put in a stevq3an with a pint of wellseasoned stock. Let them simmer one hour and a half, or till tender; drain away the gravy, skim it, and boil it shar jly till reduced to onehaK, thicken with a little flour (a glassful of claret is an improvement), pour over the hearts, and serve very hot. The hearts are better placed on a layer of Australian mince made very hot and savoiuy. 63. Beef and Kidneys. Fry beef in sUces and kidneys in very thin sUces, lay them alternately one over the other ; pour over them a rich brown gravy, and serve with fried bacon laid over them at intervals. 64. Beef and Tomato Sauce. Put in a stewpan six sliced shallots, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and a wine-glassful of vinegar. Boil gently for five minutes ; add a quarter of a pound of tomato pulp, one ounce of butter, one tea-spoonful of anchovy. Stir till it has boiled a few minutes longer. Strain through a coarse tin strainer over slices of fried beef, and serve. 65. Vegetable Marrow, IStuffed. Take out the seeds of a small custard maiTow, fill the hoUow with forcemeat No. 15; tie the marrow in a cloth, boil till tender, peel it care I fully, and serve with good brown gravy. ! 66. Stuffed Cucumber. [ Take out the seeds of a cucumber, fill it as in TIN (975) TIN Xo. 65, and boil till tender ; peel it carefully, and pom- over it this sauce : Chop an onion fine, fry it in fat in a small frying-pan, add a wine-glassful of vinegar, pepper and salt, and a little stock : boil five minutes, and add a little muskfoom-ketchup. 67. Mince and Kalecannon. Mix equal proportions of well-boiled, wellseasoned, and well-mashed cabbage and- potatoes. Have ready a dish in which is a border of very hot mince {sec No. 35) ; pile the kalecannon in the centre, mark with a three-pronged fork, and serve very hot. 68. Mutton with Onion Sauce. Stew some nicely-cut pieces of well-seasoned mutton in a very little water till quite hot through ; put into the same pan two tea-cupf uls of well-prepared onion sauce ; then stii- aU together, and serve. C9. Mutton with Celeby Sauce. Thoroughly cleanse four heads of celery, slice them very thin, and put them in a stewpan with nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste ; add two ounces of butter and a sliced onion ; cover, and set on the stove to stew very gently without ?colouring, \ len tender, add four ounces of fiour and one pint of milk ; stir again over the fire till the sauce has boiled twenty minutes ; rub through a colander, and pour over nicelyfried mutton laid in a dish. 70. Beef and Ham E-issoles. Mince equal parts of beef and bread, half the quantity of ham, and a fourth part of finelychopped suet. Add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a well-beaten egg ; mix all well together, and roll into balls ; flour well, and fry in boUing fat. Serve with thick brown gravy. 71. Shape with Macahoni. BoU some macaroni tender, cut it uj) into quarter of an inch lengths, stick them, hole outwards, thickly all over a well-buttered plain round-topped basin ; fill the basin with mince No. 35, cover with a floured cloth, and boil half an hour ; turn out, and serve with or without brown gravy. 72. Mutton Pie (a I'lrlandais). Cut nice pieces of mutton, lay them in a piedish, and season well. Take some stock, put in it six onions and eight potatoes, put the hd on, and set it to stew gently for half an hour ; lift them into the pie-dish, boil the gravy down to the quantity required to fill the pie. Cover it with potato paste as in No. 32, and bake half an horn-. Serve with a boat of gravy. 73. Mutton Pie with Apples. Proceed as for the above, and add to each Iiyer of meat a layer of apples peeled and sliced ; mix into the gravy some tomato sauce, cover with a pie-crust, bake half an hour or till the crust is done, and serve. 74. Mutton Pies (a la Windsor). Cut a pound of mutton into small pieces, season with chopped mushrooms, i arsley, shallots,- pepper and salt, and a little bro-?-n gi'avy, stir gently together ; raise small pie -shapes with hot-water crust, fill with the mixture, cover, and bake till the crust is done thoroughlv. The following wiU be found a good method for ? making the crust : Put one pound of flour in a basin, make a hollow, put half an ounce of salt and half a pint of boiling water in which four ounces of lard, butter, or Australian fat has been melted, j'our it on boiling ; mix together into a firm paste, kneading well, put in small lumps on a paste-board to cool. When just nicely warm take a lump and work it into the shape of pork pies some people find it easier to work it up round a floured pot or wooden mould. 75. Small Pies Kaised. Prepare a sufficient quantitj' of mince No. 31 to fill the number of pies you require to make, also some hot-water crust (No. 74) ; raise small shapes the size of a threepenny veal pie, fill with the mince, cover, and bake till the crust is done. 76. Raised Pie. Cut into dice equal j)arts of ham, beef, and bacon, season well, and fill a raised pie-shape. Bake weU, and when baked pour into the pie through a funnel a little melted jelly from the Australian meat well seasoned. Let the pie get cold before cutting it. 77. Patties. Prepare mince No. 31. Make some light paste, line pattj' pans, fill but not too full with mince, wet the edges and cover with paste, brush over with a beaten-up yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven till the crust is done ; pile up on a hot dish on a napkin, and garnish with small crisj) bits of parsley. 78. Sausage Rolls. Make some light paste, roU out thin (about a quarter of an inch thick), cut into pieces five inches square, wet the edges, lay a skinned sausage in it just close enough to leave half an inch of paste bej'ond the sausage ; fold over and pinch the edges neatly together, brush over with yolk of egg well beaten, and bake. 79. Baked Pie. Make two pounds of short paste, line a buttered oblong tin mould, fill the pie with alternate layers of beef, mutton, bacon, and sliced apples, season between each layer with pejiper and salt, chojDped onion (boiled), and chopped sage-leaves ; pour over it a little good gra\-y , cover with paste, cut it evenly round, mark it round with the paste -nippers, and after brushing over with egg bake till the crust is quite done. 80. German Fkitteus. To three-quarters of a pound of flour add two of butter dissolved in half a pint of beer (this should not be used till tepid), one teasjjoonful of salt, the beaten yolks of two eggs ; mix together, pouring the beer in by degrees. Work -\ -cll, set aside for an hour or so,"and when about to add the whites whipped to a froth, fry as omelettes, and lay mince No. 31 or forcemeat No. 15 in them; fold over, and serve four or five on a dish, side by side, with a garnish of parslej-. 81. Yol-au-A'ent. Make some very light puil pa.ste. Lino a weU-buttered fluted dish or tin, fill with the following mixture cooked over the fire tiU TIN (976) TIN more than half done : Half a pound of minced beef, half a pound of minced ham, two hardhoiled eggs cut up small, and half a pound of any kind of game meat or rabbit cut fine. Season highly ; stir over the fire with a gill of good cream and one ounce of butter till nearly cooked ; then add a little lemon -juice and nutmeg and a tea-spoonful of anchovj-. Bake covered with greased paper till halfdone. 82. Rice (Turkish Fashion). Boil the rice as in recipe No. 36. Fry the rice with butter, cayenne, and saffron powder ; season with salt, and throw in a handful of cleansed Smyrna raisins. Put this rice as a border to the curry prepared as in No. 8. 83. EiCE (Polish Fashion). Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry in a pan with butter, then add two ounces of cooked ham cut in shreds and six ounces of Australian meat cut in dice. Take the rice as prepared in No. 36, season with a pinch of cayenne pepper and a table-spoonful of grated cheese. Stir all together lightly over the fire, and serve quite hot. 84. Rice (Milanese Fasliion). Fr3 the rice {see No. 36) in a pan with butter, season with grated cheese ; add six ounces of Australian meat cut in dice, half a pint of boiled and picked shrimps (lobster or crab will do), season, and serve hot with a tea-spoonful of anchovy stirred in. 85. Rice (Spanish Fashion). Fry the rice {sec No. 36) till of a golden colour in oil, using only just enough to fry it ; then add either a large table-spoonful of prepared tomato sauce or two large ripe red tomatoes squeezed free from seeds and watery juice through a wire sieve. Season with Spanish sauce, pepper, and grated cheese. Pile up lightly in a hot dish, and garnish round with curry No. 8. 86. Fraxgipane of Muttox. Steam some good mealy potatoes, skin them, mash them till smooth, put them into a saucepan with three eggs. Stir all together till cool enough to make them up with the hand. Take the marrow from a beef -bone, cut it up as suet, take a quarter of a pound of mutton cut into tiny dice, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, season it well, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of cream, mix well together ; flour the hands, and roll a small bit of the frangipane into a ball, hollow it with the flat part of a spoon, fill it with the mince, close it wp, flour well, and when you have enough for a small dish fry them till light brown, or bake in quick oven. Serve hot, garnished with parsley. 87. Cakes of Meat. Prepare some mince ; to each table- spoonful of mince add one tea-spoonful of bread-crumbs, enough egg to bind them, a little finely-chopped parsley, and pepper and salt to taste!! Take a bit of the mince in floured hands, roll it in a ball, then flatten it into a cake, dip in egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. Serve with a little good gravy and fried bacon in strips. 88. Gateau de Bceuf. Take two pounds at least of beef, one of ham mince them up fine, and season well. Take an ox foot, and boil till the foot separates. Take it out, and cut off all the meat, and mince and season it. Lay it in a round tin that has been wetted with vinegar, boil up the liquor, and pour it over till quite full and well soaked into the meat. AVhen cold turn out, and it will eat like brawn. 89. Madras Curry. Take two large onions, and slice and fry them. Fry the meat you mean to curry, cut into small dice, in the same pan, first taking out the onions ; stir into it a pint of good gravy well seasoned, two table-spoonfuls of curry powder,, and a little salt ; add it to the meat, and stew gently twenty minutes. When nearty done add the juice of a lemon, and serve up with boiled rice No. 36. 90. Vixagaret of Beef. Cut small thin slices of boiled beef, put them in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and cold kidney i otatoes; season with pepper and salt, three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, two of \'inegar, chopped shallot and parsley ; mix and pour over. Serve for lunch or made-up dinner. 91. Gateau Australiex. Take a pie-dish, and butter it ; cut hardboiled eggs in slices, lay them roimd the sides of the dish and at the bottom. Then put slices of beef and mutton, and ham and bacon, and spread sUced pickles over each layer, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; pour over it some good rich well-seasoned gravy in which one ounce of gelatine has been dissolved ; let it stand till cold, turn out, and garnish with parsley. 92. TiMBALE de Macaroxi. Boil some macaroni in water and one ounce of butter; when it has boiled a few minutes strain off the water, and return it to the stewpan with half a pint of stock ; boil slowly on a stove till tender. Then add to it some diced mutton well seasoned, and a little grated cheese ;, make all hot together, then set to cool. Butter a mould, well sprinkle with bread-crumbs, and Hne with common puff paste ; put in the meat and macaroni quite cold, cover with paste, and bake in a rather slow oven. \\Ticn done, turn it out of the mould, cut off the top, and pour white sauce over and in the dish. 93. Carrole de Ris. Boil the rice {see No. 36) , put it into a pan with a good slice of ham and an onion, and stew it over a gentle fire till tender. Have ready a mould Hned with very thin slices of bacon. Mix the yolks of three eggs with the rice, and then line the bacon with it about half an inch thick. Put into it a ragout of either beef or mutton or Australian rabbit. Fill up the mould, and cover close with rice. Bake it in the oven an hour, turn it on to a dish, and send it to table with gravy or curry sauce. 94. Sliced Beef with Mayoxxaise Sauce. Lay trimly-cut slices of beef on a meat-dish with a little very finely-scraped horseradish here and there over it. Spread over it thin TIN (977) TIN slices of cold boiled beetroot. Pour over a mayonnaise sauco made thus : Take a basin, place therein three yolks of eggs, a little pepper and salt, and stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Work into it by slow degrees half a pint of salad oil and half a giU of tarragon vinegar. If it is well made it should be lirm and creamy. This quantity is enough for a very large dish. 95. Larded Beef. Turn out a shape of beef with a lardingneedle, put strips of fat bacon thi-ough from side to side. Serve when cold with garnish of parsley. 96. Sliced Beef a*nd Cucumber. Lay thin slices of mutton or beef in a meatdish, cut very thin slices of cucumber, and if wished a few sliced onions or shallots. Mx equal parts of oil and vinegar ; shake them in the bottle. "When well mixed put the cucximber into a basin, pour the oil and vinegar over, stir till the cucumber is well covered with it, pepper, and pour it over the beef. 97. German Salad. Put in a salad-bowl a pound of beef cut in dice, also one finely-chopped onion, two ounces of red cabbage pickle, a pickled walnut chopped, two gherkins chopped, three ounces of boiled beetroot sliced and cold, two large white lettuces, a little endive cut very fine, a little tarragon, chervil, a leaf or two of dandelion, half a dozen of sorrel, two large potatoes boiled and cut in slices cold, two sliced hard-boiled eggs, three table-spoonfuls of oil, six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a tea-spoonful of sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of mustard, and a pint of claret or Rhenish wine. Mix all well together, and decorate the top with a few shapes cut in beetroot. 98. Mutton and Pickles. Turn out a 4lb. shape of Australian mutton. Garnish the dish round with slices of red beetroot and little heaps of red cabbage pickle. 99. Cold Shape. Take two pounds of beef or mutton. ]\Ielt one ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and add to it a tea-cupful of brown gravy or stock. Cut a hard-boiled egg into round slices, and line the bottom of a mould with it. Chop up some slices of fat bacon, season with pepper, salt, and a \ery little allspice ; add this to the meat with a little more liquid ; place all in a stewpan, and finish cooking. When done pour the ?whole into the mould and let it get quite cold. Dip in hot water the next day, and it wiU slide out at once. Garnish with a border of parsley. 100. Spiced Beef. Turn out a shape of beef of six pounds' weight. To answer properly it should be a firm good shape with plenty of jelly round. It must be cut in rounds three inches thick this will make three rounds. Lay them in a dish three inches deep, cover them with this mixture : One ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of allspice. I\Ielt all the jelly, put the roimds back intact into their own tin, one over the other. To accomplish this you must press each round down separately with a piece of wood that just fits inside the tin. WTien it is aU firmly pressed in, pour (by degrees to let it soak in) all round the edge the melted jelly well seasoned. Let the shape stand to get cold. If it will not tui-n out easily, dip it in hot water. The following are the names of the foregoing recipes arranged in alphabetical order for easy reference : Australien, Gateau, 91 Baked Pie, 79 Balls, Forcemeat, 16 Beef and Ham Kis soles, 70 Beef and Haricot Beans, 57 Beef and Kidney Pudding, 22 Beef and Kidneys, 63 Beef and Tomato Sauce, 64 Beef (au Liable), 10 Beef (au Fromage), 29 Beef (au Gratin), 31 Beef (au Macaroni), 30 Beef CoUops, 53 Beef Fried in Batter, 27 Beef Fried with Suet Dumplings, 23 Beef, Gateau of, 88 Beef, Larded, 95 Beef, Miroton of, 58 Beef, Spiced, 100 Beef, Sliced and Cucumber, 96 Beef, Sliced, with Mayonnaise Sauce, 94 Beef Tea, 2 Beef, Vinagaret of, 90 Beef with Savoury Pudding, 28 Beef with Sheep's Liver, 61 Boiled Pudding, 13 Bologna Sausages, 19 Bouillabaisse, 52 Breast of ]\Iutton (a I'Australienne), 50 Broth, Mutton, 3 Bubble and Squeak, 51 Cakes of Meat, 87 Capilotade of Beef or Mutton, 56 Carrole de Riz, 93 Chimney, Smoking, 60 Cold Shape, 99 Collops (a la Sauce Robert), 54 Collops, Beef, 53 Cucumber, Stuffed, 66 Curried Mutton, 8 Curried iVIutton, Dry, 9 Currj', Madras, 89 ' Forcemeat, 15 Forcemeat Balls, 16 Forcemeat Pudding, 14 Forcemeat, Toad in a Hole, 20 Frangipane of IMutton,. 86 Fried Meats, 49 FritadeUa with White Sauce, 47 Fritadellas, 48 Fritters, German, 80 Gateau, Australien, 91 Gateau of Beef, 88 German Fritters, 80 German Salad, 97 Ham Rissoles, Beef and, 70 Haricot Beans, Beef and, 57 Haricot of Mutton, 7 Irish Stew, 6 Ividney Pudding, Beef and, 22 Kidneys, Beef and, 03 Larded Beef, 95 Meat, Cakes of, 87 Meat with PotatoCover, 32 Meats, Fried, 49 Mince and Spinach, 43. Mince in Scallops, 41 ]\Iince, Omelet and, 44 Mince on Toast, 39 Mince Tart, Open, 40 Mince with Hardboiled Eggs, 46 Mince with Kalecannon, 67 Mince with Poached Eggs, 42 ilutton and Pickles, 98 Mutton, Breast of (a. I'Australienne), 50 Mutton Broth, 3 Mutten, Curried, 8 Mutton, Dry Curried, 9 Mutton, Frangipane of, 86 Mutton Fried with Suet Pudding, 24 jMutton, Haricot of, 7 Mutton Pie (a I'lrlan dais), 72 Mutton-Pie with Apples, 73 Mutton - Pies (a la Windsor), 74 Mutton with Bacon, 26 Mutton with Celery Sauce, 69 Mutton with French Beans, 59 Mutton with Onion Sauce, 68 TIP ( 978) TOA Mutton with .' Omelet and Mince, 44 Peas, Hachis with, 45 Patties, 77 Pea Soui), 5 Pie, Baked, 79 Pie, Potatoe, 33 Pie, Raised, 70 Pies, Mutton, 72, 74 Pies, Small Eaised, 75 Polish Rice, 83 Potato Cover, Meat with, 32 Potato Pie, 33 Potato Eissoles, 35 Potato Wall, 34 Pudding (au Gratin), 12 Pudding, Boiled, 13 Pudding, Forcemeat, 1 4 Pudding, Eoll, 11 Pudding, Sausage, 18 Eagout de Milan, 55 Eaised Pie, 76 Eice, Carrole of, 93 Eice Eissoles, 3(3 Eice, Milanese, 84 Eice, Polish, 83 Eice, Spanish, 85 Eice(Turkish Fashion) , 82 Eissoles, 37 ; Potato, 35 Eissoles, Eice, 36 Eissolette, 38 Eoll Pudding, 11 Salad, Gcnnan, 97 Sausage Pudding, 18 Sausage EoUs, 78 Sausages, 17 Sausages, Bologna, 19 Shape with Macaroni, 71 Sheep's Heart, StirSed, 62 Sheep's Liver, Beef with, 61 Smoking Chimney, 60 Soup, Julienne, 4 Soup, Pea, 5 Soup with Forcemeat Balls, 1 Squeak, Bubble and, 51 Stew, Irish, 6 Stuffed Cucumber, 66 Suet Pudding, Mutton Fried with, 24 Tart, Open Mince, 40 Timbale de Macaroni, 92 Toad in a Hole, 21 Toad in a Hole Forcemeat, 20 Tomato Sauce, Beef and, 64 Vegetable Marrow, Stuffed, 65 Yol-au-Vent, 81 Wall, Potato, 34 White Sauce, Frita della with, 47 Tipsy Bread. Take a stale roll. Pare off the crust, and cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick. Spread a little jam on each side of these, and pile them one upon the other in the centre of a glass dish. Sift powdered sugar thickly over them, and pom- upon them as much sherry as they will absorb. Blanch two or three ounces of sweet almonds, cut them into shreds, and stick them all over the surface of the bread. Pour a good custard round them, and set the dish aside until wanted. Tipsy bread should be made two or three hours before it is wanted. Tipsy Cake. Take a moulded sponge or savoury cake three or four days old. Cut it quite level at the bottom, so that it will stand firmly on the dish, pierce it in several places with a skewer or knitting needle, and pour over it as much sweet wine mixed with two wine-glassfuls of brandy as it will absorb. Take up the liquor that flows into the dish, and pour it over again and again until the cake is ( uite soaked. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split them into spikes, and stick them all over the cake. Pour round it a rich cold boiled custard, and it will be ready for serving. Sometimes the juice of half a lemon is mixed with the \\ane and brandy. Time, two hours to soak the cake. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, 2s., if the custard is made with milk. Sufficient for a dish. Tipsy Cake (simple, for children). Take a dozen small stale sponge cakes, spread a little jam on each, and arrange them in a pile in the centre of a deep glass dish. Pour over them as much raisin wine as they will absorb, and keep putting it over them till they are soaked. Pour round them a pint of nicely-flavoured cold custard, and ornament the dish with dried fruits cut in slices. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for a dish. Tiverton Pudding. Beat four eggs till they are very light. Mix smoothly with them tliree dessert-spoonfuls of fine flour, and add a table-spoonful of sugar, as much grated nutmeg and ginger as will together stand on a sixpence, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Bring a pint of milk to the point of boiling, pour it upon the mixture, and stir it briskly for a minute or two. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling water. Flour it well, and tie the pudding in it. Plunge it at once into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, about an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Toad in the Hole. ilix a pinch of salt with four large table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat this to a smooth paste with two well-beaten eggs, and add two-thirds of a pint of milk. The milk should be added very gradually, and the pudding should be well beaten so that there are no lumps, and it should be of the consistency of very thick cream. Cut a pound and a half of beefsteak and one or two sheep's kidneys, or a quarter of a pound of ox kidney, into pieces convenient for serving. Lay them at the bottom of a hot buttered dish, and pour the batter over them. Bake in a brisk oven. The batter will be better if it is made an hour or two before it is wanted, but it should be beaten up again at the last moment before it is poured over the meat. Mutton chops, sausages, or a stuffed fowl may be substituted for the steak and kidney, or a few mushrooms or oysters may be put with the meat, or even a small quantity of minced shallot. The remains of cold meat also may be served in this way, and will be found to be very good, though, of course, not so good as when fresh meat only is used. Some cooks frj' the meat lightly, to brown it a little, before putting it into the dish. Time to bake, from one hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, if made with steak, 2s. lOd. Sufiicieut for four or five persons. Toast, Anchovy [sec Anchovy Toast). TOA (979) TOA Toast and Water. Toast a small slice of stale broad (crusty bread is the best) till it ' is brightly browned all over - N'ithout being in the least burnt. Poui" over it a quart of boil- 1 ing water, and let it stand till cold. Filter it, and put it into a decanter. If the toast-water is quickly wanted, just cover the bread with boiling water, and when that is cold, add as ; much cold filtered water as vill fill the jug. i Toast-water should be quite cold before it is presented to an invalid, as it is by no means an agreeable beverage when taken lukewarm or hot. Time to soak, half an houi-. TOASTING PORKS. Toast, Buttered. Toast v hich is to be Tsuttered should be cut from a loaf one or two days old, in slices about the third of an inch thick. Cut off the crust, and toast the bread hefore a clear bright fire. "WTien it is equally and lightly coloured on one side turn it to do the other. Place little pieces of butter here and there upon it, put it before the fire for a minute or tv o till the butter is soft, then spread it upon the toast, taking care not to press heavily upon the bread, or the toast will be heavy. Cut each slice separately into strips an inch and a half broad, and pile these on a hot dish. If one or two slices are cut through together, the butter wiU sink from the upper piece to the lower. Some cooks hold the toasted bread over a bowl of boiling water for a minute before buttering it. This is to soften it, that it may take the butter more readily. Buttered toast should be prepared at the last moment, and served very hot. , Toast, Buttered (another way). &c Buttered Toast. Toast, Buttered, and Cheese. Cru.sh half a pijund of old Cheshire cheese in a mortar, and pound with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, the yolk of a hard-boiled es:g, and a small tea-spoonful of mustard. Take a slice of bread half an inch tliick, cut off the crust, and toast it on both sides. Spread the cheesepaste upon it, laj' it upon a dish, and put it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the paste is melted. Serve very hot. Time to melt the cheese, about three or four minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for two persons. Toast, Dry. Be careful to have a clear bright fire, and see that the bars are quite clean. Cut as many slices as may'be required from a loaf of bread two days old. These slices should be verj thin less than a quarter of an inch thick. Cut off the crust, and warm the bread on both sides for one miuTite before toasting it ; then put it on the toasting-fork, hold it a little distance from the fire, move it about tiU it is lightly and equally toasted, and when it is done upon one side turn it to do the other. Dry toast should be coloured gradually, as its perfection consists in its beingcrisp and dry without being very dark and brown or in the least burnt. It should be made a few minutes only before it is wanted, as it soon becomes heavy. It should never be placed Jlat on a dish or table, but be x ut at once in the toast-rack, or, if this is not at hand, two slices should be made to lean one against another. It is almost unnecessary to add that toast should never be made with new bread. Toast, Egg {see Egg Toast). Toast for Soup. Cut a slice of thin bread, toast it lightly on both sides, and cut it into dice not larger than a quarter of an inch square. Throw these into a frjnng-pan with hot fat, and tm-n them about till they are i quite crisp. Lift them out with an egg-slice, i and put them on an inverted sieve before the fii'e for a minute or two to drain them from the fat. Serve them on a separate dish. Time to fry the dice, about a minute. Toast, German (vf German Toast). Toast, Ox Tongue {see Ox Tongue Toast a breakfast reUsh) . Toast, Savoury. Scale and bone two or three anchovies without washing them. Beat them to a paste, and add a pinch of cayenne ox a little ch-y mustard and a small lump of butter. Toast a shce of brown bread, and butter it well. Spread the savomy paste upon it, and push it into the oven, or let it stand before the fire for a minute or two till it is very hot. Serve immediately. If liked, the yolk of an egg and a table-spoonful of cream may be mixed with the potmded anchovies, and the paste may be stin-ed over the fire for a short time till it is very hot without boiling. Toast, To prepare, for Roast Game. Toast a slice of bread the third of an inch thick till it is brightly bro-mied on both sides. Cut off the crust, hold it over a bowl of boiling water for a minute to imbibe the steam, and butter it well. Soak it in the di'ipping in the pan under the birds, and when these are ready, serve them upon it. Toasts, Hamburg. When a small quantity only of any sa ?oury fricassee is left, it may be warmed up as follows : Mince the meat finely, and put with it any seasoning that may bo required, ilix it with the sauce, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is thick. Draw it awaj' from the fire for a minute, and mix with it the yolk of an egg well beaten. Stir it over the fire again till it is hot "itliout letting it hoil. Tui-n it upon a dish, and let it get TOD ( 980 ) TOM cold. Take one or two slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick. Toast them on both sides, and cut them into three-cornered pieces. Spread the savoury mince thickly upon them, and cover the surface with a hard-boiled egg chopped small. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and put them in a brisk oven for a minute or two till they are quite hot. Arrange them neatly on a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time altogether, about one hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the fricassee. Toddy, American. Take the thin rind of two large lemons, and put it in a bowl with half a pound of sifted sugar and a pint of cold water, and let it soak until the liquor is pleasantly flavoured. Take out the rind, and in its place put a small quantity of fruit three or four large ripe strawberries, a slice of pine-apple, or a mellow peach peeled and sUced will answer excellently. Ten minutes before the toddy is served add a pint of best rum and a quarter of a pound of ice. Toffee. JMelt three ounces of fresh butter in a small brass saucepan over a clear, bright fire. As soon as it is dissolved, stir into it oni,' pound of good brown sugar, and keep stirring until it is done enough. In order to ascertain when this point is reached, let a cup of cold water be placed close at hand, and keep dropping a little of the toifee into it. When the toffee thus dropped hardens immediately, and breaks between the teeth without sticking to them it is done, and must be poui-ed out at once or it will burn. The flavour of this toffee may be pleasantly varied by stirring into it a teaspoonful of slightly moistened powdered ginger, or the grated rind of a small lemon. Pour the toffee upon a buttered dish, and put it in a cool place to set. Time to boil, fifteen to twentyfive minutes. Probable cost, this quantity, 8d. Toffee, Almond. Melt five ounces of fresh butter in a small brass saucepan over a clear fire, and when it is dissolved stir into it a pound of good bro-ssTi sugar, and let the mixture boil for a quarter of an hour. Have ready prepared two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, halved, and dried. Throw them into the toft'ee, and let it boil after they are added xmtil it hardens instantly when dropped into cold water, and breaks between the teeth without sticking to them. AVhen this point is reached, turn the toft'ee out immediately or it will bum. Pour it upon buttered dishes. Or blanch an ounce of sweet almonds, divide them into strips, and dry them thoroughly in a cool oven or before the fire. Boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of water till it is dissolved, then throw in an ounce of butter. Boil the toffee until it hardens instantly when dropped into cold water. Pour it on a buttered dish or oiled slab, and add the sliced almonds after the toffee is poured upon the dish. Vhen nearly cold, mark it out in squares with the back of a knife. Time, fifteen to thirty minutes. Toffee, Almond (another way). See Almond Toffy. Toffee, Everton {see Everton Toffee). Tomato. The tomato or love apple is a fruit much valued in cookery for sauces, soups, gravies, and ketchup. It is about the size of a potato. It comes into season in August, and continues until frost sets in. It possesses a very peculiar flavour, and when liked at all is generally very highly esteemed. It is said to be good for indigestion and dyspepsia. The large tomatoes are the best for stewing and for sauces, and the small ones for pickling. TOMATOES. Tomato (au Gratin). Cut half a dozen tomatoes in halves, remove the pips, and fill the inside with a mixture of bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt, in due proportions. Place a smaU piece of butter on each half tomato, and lay them then close together in a weU-buttered tin. Bake in a slow oven for about half an hour, then serve. They may be eaten hot or cold. Tomato Beef. Take three pounds of lean beef, cut it in small strips, lay it in the stewpan with seven or eight nice ripe tomatoes, a little water, and one finely-chopped onion. Stew slowly for one hour and a half. Add salt, pepper, cloves, and just before dishing, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and half a giU of ketchup. Tomato Ketchup. A small glassful of tomato ketchup stirred into half a pint of melted butter or gravy may be used instead of tomato sauce. Take two quarts of small ripe tomatoes, cut them into slices, lay them in a deep pan, and sprinkle amongst them four ounces of salt. Let them lie for twenty-four hours. Pour the juice from them, and boil it with four ounces of shallots and a dozen and a half small capsicums. Press the tomatoes through a sieve, stir the pulp into the juice, and let it boil half an hour longer. Pour the ketchup into warm bottles whilst it is warm. Cork securely, and seal the corks. Time, two days. Tomato Ketchup (another way). Take any quantity of very ripe tomatoes, and cut them into slices. Put a layer into a deep jar, sprinkle a little salt over it, add another layer and a little more salt, and repeat this until the tomatoes are all used. The quantity of salt required will be about two ounces of salt TOM (981 ) TOM for a quart of tomatoes. Put the jar in a warm place, and stii- the fruit every now and then for three days. At the end of that time press the tomatoes thi'ough a sieve. Measure the juice, and boil it N-ith a quarter of an ounc5 of black pepper, eight cloves, a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of powdered ginger, and half an ounce of allspice to each quart of juice. Pour it while warm into warm bottles, and when it is quite ?cold cork up securely. At the end of thi-ee I months boil it again, adding fresh spice ac- I cording to taste. Cork it up again, and store i for use. Time to boil the juice with the spice, i a quarter of an hour. Tomato Ketchup (another way). Boil ' one bushel of good tomatoes until soft, then squeeze through a fine wire sieve. Add half a g-allon of vinegar, a few ounces of salt, two ounces of cloves, a quarter of a pound of allspice, an ounce and a half of cayenne pepper, thi-ee table-si30onf uls of black pepper, and five heads of garlic skinned and separated. Mix and boil three hours or until reduced one-half, and bottle without straining. The garlic may be omitted. Tomato Marmalade. Weigh the fruit, .and take as many ounces of sugar as there are I ounds of tomatoes. Put this sugar into a preserving-pan, place it upon a gentle fire, and stii- until it melts and acquires a lightbrown colour. Throw into it three or four onions finely minced, allowing one small onion for each pound of tomatoes. When these are slightly browned, put into the pan the tomatoes cut into quarters, and add a slight seasoning of pepper, salt, powdered mace, and grated nutmeg. Boil all together till the tomatoes are reduced to pulp, strain the juice through a sieve, and boil it quickly until it will jelly when a small portion is poured upon a plate. Put the mamialade into jars, and cover with ?double layers of verj' thick paper. Time, two and a half to three hours. Tom.ato Omelet. Take four ripe tomatoes, peel them, and chop them small. Beat a large table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little milk. Add six well-beaten ?ggs, a little pepper and salt, and the tomatoes. Fry the omelet in the usual way, and fold it over if liked, but do not turn it. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, about lOd. Sufiieient for three or four persons. Tomato Puree (for roast beef, mutton, pork, &c). Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, slice off the stalks and the part that adheres to them, squeeze out the pips, break them into pieces, and put them into a stewpan with three or four spoonfuls of good brown gravy and a little salt and cayenne. Let them boil; put with them an onion, a bunch of parslej', a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf, and simmer them very gently until they are quite soft. Take out the herbs, and rub the tomatoes through a fine hair Ive an ounce of butter in a saiice pan, and mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly ?with it. Add a spoonful or two of gravy and the tomato pulp, and stir the puree over the fire for five or six minutes. Serve very hot. Time to stew the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tom.ato Puree (for veal cutlets, calf's head, &c.). Sinnner the tomatoes in good gravy till soft, as in the last recipe. Take out the herbs, and rub them through a sieve. Mix an ounce of clarified butter with a tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste ; add gradual!}' two or thi-ee spoonfuls of thick cream and the tomato pulp. Stir the puree over the fire for a few minutes, and serve very hot. Time to stew the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, tomatoes, '2d. to 6d. per pound. SuflBLcient for five or six persons. Tomato Sauce for present use (to serve with cutlets, roast meats, &c.). Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, and press the seeds and the watery part from them. Put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of giavy or strong broth and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne. Let them stew softly until they are melted. Press them througli a fine sieve, and put the pulp back into the stewpan with half a tea-spoonful of salt. Let it simm&r gently for a few minutes, and serve very hot. If hked, a blade of mace, two or three shallots, and two cloves may be stewed with the tomatoes, but most lovers of tomatoes prefer that they should retain theii- distinctive character, and consider that tomato sauce is spoilt if it is flavoured with other ingredients. Tomatoes vary so much in size and juiciness that it is difficult to give the exact quantity of liquor required for them. It should be remembered, however, that the sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream, and that if it is too thick a little more gravy should be added: if too thin, it should be I boiled down very quickly for a short time. Time to simmer the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Tomato Sauce (another way). Melt in a stewpan a dozen or two ripe tomatoes (which, before putting into the stewpan, cut in two, and squeeze the juice and the seeds out). Then put two shallots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove, a little th} ne, a bay-leaf, a fewleaves of mace, and when melted rub them through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole and a little salt and pepper with this puree. Boil it for twenty minutes, and serve. Tom.atO Sauce (another way). When gravy or stock is not at hand, tomatoes may be sliced and stewed with a little butter, cayeimc, and salt. If dressed in this way, they should be pulped through a sieve just as if they had l)eon simmered in gra y, and a little vinegar may be added to them if liked. Tomato Sauce (another way). Halve a dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and put them into a jar or saucepan with a dessertspoonful of lean ham cut into dice, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a large pinch of cayenne, a quarter of a pint of good gravy, or two or three ounces of butter, and either three sliced shallots or a dozen button mushrooms cleaned and cut into small pieces. Stii- them over a gentle fire until they are quite soft, then press TOM ( 982 ) TOM them tkrough a sieve, add a little salt, and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. Serve it in a tureen. Time to simmer the tomatoes, ahout an hour. Probable cost, tomatoes, '2d. to 4(L per pound. Sufficient for six or eig-ht persons. Tomato Sauce, Mock. Put a pint of ?water, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, a good pinch of salt, and a large lump of sugar into a saucepan, and let it boil. Throw into it the red part only of four large carrots, and let them boil until quite soft. Take them up with an egg-slice, and rub them through a sieve. Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with three tablespoonfuls of ale, a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a sour apple, half a dozen shallots pared and minced finely, a pinch of salt and cayenne, and as much mustard and powdered mace as will lie on a sixpence. Stir this mixture over a gentle fire for nearly half an hour. Let it get cold, put it into bottles, and cork down securely. It will keep for three or four weeks. yOtvboil a dozen sour apples, pared and cored, till tender. Rub them through a sieve, colouiVthe jiulp with tui-meric, stir a little vinegar into it to give it an acid taste, and flavour with salt and cayenne. Tomato Store Sauce. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, put them in an earthen jar, and set them in a cool oven until they are quite soft. Take off the skins and stalks, mix with the tomatoes the liquor that flowed from them when baked, and add a dessert-spoonful of salt, a dessert-spoonful of powdered ginger, a pinch of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, put the sauce into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and store in a cool dry place. Examine and taste it at the end of a week or a fortnight, and if it does not seem as if it would keep, boil it again with a little more cayenne and ginger. This sauce will keep for a long time. It will not be properly flavoiired till ten days or a fortnight after it is made, though it may be used at once. Some cooks add a head of garlic to the other ingredients, but this is not generally liked. Time, four or five hours. Tomato Store Sauce (another way). Put as many tomatoes as arc agreeable into an earthen jar, set them in a slow oven, and let them bake gently until quite soft. Rub them through a fine sieve, and weigh the pulp. With every pound put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of salt, haK an ounce of cayenne, half an ounce of minced shallot or onion, and a quart of strong vinegar. Boil the whole till it is as thick as cream, let it get cool, put it into dry wide-mouthed bottles, cork closely, and store in a cool dry place. HaK an ounce _ of garlic may be added or not to the other ' ingredients. Time, about four or five hours. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pouad. Tomato Store Sauce (another way). Take two dozen tomatoes, and bake them in a slow oven till quite soft. Rub them through a sieve, and weigh them. Put a pint of vinegar into a saucepan with one ounce of minced shallots, half an ounce of salt, half an ounce of white pepper, and six capsicums a small quan tity of cayenne may be substituted for these. Let the vinegar boil for eight or ten minutes it will be sufiicient for two pounds of pulp. Mix the vinegar and the tomatoes together, and add the juice that flowed from the fruit in baking and the strained juice of a small lemon. Put the mixture again into the saucepan, and stir it over a gentle fire till it is as thick as cream. Turn it out, and let it get cold. Put it into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cork these down securely. Half an ounce of bruised garlic may be added or not. Time, four or five hours. Tomato Store Sauce (another way). Gather the tomatoes on a dry day, when they are quite ripe and red. Lay them in an earthen jar, put them into a cool oven, and let them remain all night, or until they are quite soft without being broken. Skin them, and rub them through a sieve. With every pint of pulp put half an ounce of bruised shallots, a quarter of an ounce of bruised garlic, a little salt, and haK a pint of chilli vinegar, or half a pint of white- \ ne \nnegar, and a little cayenne. Boil these ingredients together until the onions are soft. Rub the whole again through a sieve, add the juice of a lemon, and boil it again for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Put it into small dry bottles, and cork and seal these securely. The juice which flows from the fruit in baking must be added to the sauce. Time, ten or twelve hours. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Tomato Store Sauce (excellent). Cut four pounds of tomatoes into slices, and put them into a saucepan with two large onions sliced, one pound of Demerara sugar, a quarter of a pound of salt, two oimces of peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, half an ounce of cloves, and six ounces of allspice. Pour a pint of vinegar over the ingredients, and let them boil gently for two hoiurs. Stir frequently to keep them from burning. Rub them through a fine sieve, and as soon as the pulp is cold bottle it securely. Store in a cool drj' place. Time, two hours. Tomato Soup. Slice two large onions into a saucepan, with two tuiaiips, two carrots, and five or six outer sticks of celery. Put with these four ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and two ounces of fresh butter, and steam them over a gentle fire for haK an hour. Pour over them two quarts of stock or liquor in which meat has been boiled, and add six or eight lipe tomatoes. Let all simmer gently together for a couple of hours. Rub the vegetables through a sieve, and boil them again with the liquor for a few minutes, add pepper and salt to taste, and serve very hot. Send bread toasted and cut in dice to table on a separate dish. A little tomato pulp may be added to any vegetable soup when the flavour is liked. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, fid. to lOd. per pint. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Tomatoes (au Grat in). Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a stowpan, and mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it. Stir it with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire for two minutes, then add very gradually three-quarters of a I j)int of good stock. Let it boil gently till it is TOM ( 983 ) TOM reduced to rather less than half a pint. Put in with it a table-spoonful of chopped onion, three table-spoonfuls of finely-shi-ed parsley, and a little pei per and salt, and boil it quickly for ten minutes. Take eight or ten large ripe tomatoes. Slice off the stalks and the part that adheres to them, and make a round hole in the top the size of a shilling. Scoop out the seeds through this, and fill their place with the prepared sauce. Set them carefully in a baking-tin, the stalk end uppermost, with two ounces of butter, and sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over them. Put them in a brisk oven, and bake them for ten minutes. Servo very hot. Time to make the stuffing, about one hour. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tomatoes, Australian Meat and {see Australian Meat, ?S:c.). Tomatoes, Baked. Slice the stalks from six or eight ripe tomatoes with the green part that adheres to them. Season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over them. Divide about two oimces of fresh butter into little pieces, and place these here and there upon them. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat of all kinds. If liked, the tomatoes may be cut into slices, or into halves, instead of being baked whole, and they will not then require so much time for baking. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour till they are quite soft without breaking. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Tomatoes, Baked (another way) . Take five or six large ripe tomatoes, plunge them for one minute into boiling water, take them out, remove the thin skin, divide them in halves, and squeeze out the seeds. Mix a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg, into two ounces of fresh butter. Arrange the tomatoes in a single layer on a baking-dish, the cut side uppermost; put an equal portion of the seasoned butter on each, and bake in a brisk oven. AVhen done enough pour the juice of a lemon over them, lay them upon hot buttered toast, and pour over them the gravy which is in the dish Avith them. Serve very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Tomatoes for Garnish {see Garnish, Tomatoes for). Tomatoes, Fowl Braised witli {see Fowl Braised with Tomatoes). Tomatoes, Pickled. This pickle is very good with roast meat, cold or hot. Take two dozen small ripe tomatoes ; prick each one in two or three places, carefully preser\-e the juice that flows from them, and keep it in a covered vessel until wanted. Put the tAmatoes in layers in a deep earthen jar, and sprinkle a little salt between each layer. Cover the pan, and let the tomatoes remain undisturbed for three days. At the end of that time wash them well fi'om the brine and dry them care fully. Put them into jars, and cover them with vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to get cold. Add the juice which flowed from the fruit in the first instance, and cover the jars closely. The pickle will bo ready for use in about a fortnight. The following spices should be boiled with the \-inegar for this quantity of tomatoes :? Half an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and a heaped table-spoonful of mustard-seed. Sometimes minced onions or minced celery, or both, are put into the jars with the tomatoes. Time, four days. I Tomatoes Preserved. Cut the toma I toes into pieces, and simmer them gently over i a slow fire till they are reduced to a pulp. 1 Squeeze the juice from this pulp, boil it until ] it is as thick as cream, and then pour it into i small ? bottles. Place these in a large boiler : with cold water up to their necks, luring the i water to the boil, and let it boil for a quarter of ; an hour, then lift the bottles from the fire, and ; let them remain in the water till it is cold. ? Cork securely, and wax the corks. Store in a j cool, dry place. Time to boil, a quarter of an i hour. I Tomatoes, Roast. Take six or eight small ripe tomatoes. Slice off the stalks and the parts that adhere to them. Put them in a Dutch oven, place them before the fire, and roast them until done enough. Serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast ; meat. If it is more convenient they may i be placed at the edge of the dripping-tin j instead of in the Dutch oven, but care must j be taken that the fat from the joint does not I fall upon them. Time to roast, twelve to I twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six j)ersons. Tomatoes, Stewed. Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes. Komove the stalks, slice 1 the fruit, and put the slices into a lined sauceI pan. Season with pepper and salt, and place j about two ounces of butter divided into little I pieces here and there amongst them. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the tomatoes I gently until they are quite tender. Stir them two or. three times, and serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat. A spoonful or two ?f vinegar will be an impro\'ement. Time to stew the tomatoes, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six Tomatoes, Stewed (Portuguese way). I Slice half a dozen ripe tomatoes, season I with pepper and salt, and put little pieces of I butter here and there upon them. Mince two I onions finely, sprinkle them over the tomatoes, j cover the saucepan closely, and steam them for a quarter of an hour. Afterwards pour a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy over ! them, stir frequently, and let them simmer j gently until done enough. Have ready a quarter of a pound of freshly-boiled rice. Stir this in with the tomatoes, and mix the i ingredients thoroughly. Turn the whole upon i a hot dish, and send a little more brown sauce to table in a tureen. Time, about one hour to stew the tomatoes. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. 1 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. TOM (984) Ton Tomatoes, Stewed Whole. Take six or eight ripe tomatoes of medium size. Kemove the stalks, and arrange the fruit in a stewpan in a single layer. Pour over them as much good brown gravy as will reach to half their height, stew them gently until they are done enough, and turn them over carefully once or twice that they may be equally cooked. Thicken the gravy with a httle flour and butter, ?season with pepper and salt, and let it boil two or three minutes after the thickening is added. Serve the tomatoes verj' hot with the sauce round them. Time to stew, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tomatoes, Stuffed.. Choose half a dozen large tomatoes of uniform size. Slice off the stalks and the green parts round them, and scoop out the pips without breaking the sides of the fruit. Make a stuffing as follows : ? Mince two ounces of fat bacon, and put it into a stewpan with half a dozen mushrooms chopped small, a handful of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, three or four shallots, all chopped, and a little pepper and salt. Stir this mixture over a gentle fire for five minutes, then bind it together with the well-beaten yolks of throe eggs. Fill the tomatoes with this stuffing, set them side by side in a saute-pan, and pour in salad oil to the height of a quarter of an inch. Sprinkle bread-raspings lightly over the tomatoes, and place them on a brisk fire, holding a red-hot shovel over them, or bake them in a quick oven. Serve on a hot dish, and pour some good brown sauce round them. Time to fry the tomatoes, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tomatoes, Stuffed (another way). Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes of equal size. Cut off the tops and the green parts round them, and scoojj out the insides. Press the pulp through a sieve, and mix with it a little salt and cayenne, two ounces of butter broken into little pieces, and two heaped tablespoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Half a dozen finely-minced stewed mushrooms may he added or not. Fill the tomatoes with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven, or fry them in oil until done enough. Before serving, brown them by holding a salamander or hot iron over them for a minute. Send brown gravy to table in the dish with them. Any good forcemeat that is liked may be used to stuff tomatoes. The remains of game or poultry minced finely, mixed with herbs and bread-crumbs, seasoned, and bound together with yolk of egg will answer excellently. Time to bake the tomatoes, ten to twelve minutes; to fry them, eight minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tongue. In choosing a tongue, take one ?which is plump and smooth-skinned, as that is a sign that it is young and tender; and also endeavour to ascertain how long it has been dried or pickled, so as to know whether or not it will require long soaking before being dressed. If very hard and dry, it will be necessary to soak it at least twelve hours in plenty of water ; if fresh from the pickle, two or three hours' soaking will be sufficient. Horse tongues are frequently sold as ox tongues to inexperienced purchasers. The former may be known by a spoon-like expansion at the end. Tongue and Chicken with Cauliflowers {sec Chicken and Tongue). Tongue, Baked. Take a tongue fresh from the pickle, wash and soak it, and put it in a dish just large enough for it. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon it, cover with a common crust of flour and water, and bake in a moderate oven until it is quite tender. Remove the furred coating or skin, and fasten the tongue down to a piece of board by sticking one or two strong skewers through the root and one through the tip so as to hold the tongue in an erect and elegant form until it is quite cold. If to be eaten cold, glaze it, trim the root, put a j)aper frilling round it to liide its unsightliness, and serve garnished with parsley. If to be eaten hot, serve the tongue on a hot dish with brussels s Drouts, cauliflower, or other vegetables round it. Time to bake, three or four hours, according to size. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a luncheon, supper, or breakfast dish. Tongue, Beef. If dried, a salted tongue must be soaked for some hours before it is dressed. It must then be put into cold water and gently brought to the boiling point ; then, after the surface of the water has been cleared from scum, the saucepan must be removed from the fire only so far as to reduce the boiling to a gentle simmering. If dried, a tongue will require quite four hours' boiling ; if simply salted, only three hours. A hilst hot, the outer skin of the tongue must be peeled off, and it may be sent to table either glazed or plain. The usual accsmpaniment to boiled tongue is boiled turnips. Tongue, Beef, with Sauce Hachee. ? Take a fresh tongue ; let it disgorge, blanch it to remove any tripey taste it may retain ; then stew it in a good braize. When done enough, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, and cover it over thickly with saiice hachee. Tongue, Boiled. If the tongue is di-ied, soak it for twelve hours ; if taken fresh from the pickle, an hour or two wiU be sufficient. Put the tongue into cold water, and let it come slowly to the boil. Remove the scum carefully, and simmer the tongue gentlj' until done enough. Its flavour will be improved if two or three large carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs be added to the liquor after the scum is removed. When the tongue is quite tender, so that it can be easily i robed with a small skewer, and so that the skin can be easity peeled off, take it up, remove the skin, and if it is to be eaten cold pass a large carving fork through the root end, and by means of this fasten it on a board. Pass another and smaller fork through the tip, and draw the tongue straight before fixing it in the board. Let it remain untouched until quite cold, trim neatly, glaze it, and then wrap a nicely-cut frill of tissue paper round the root, which is a little TON ( 985 ) TON unsightly. Garnisli the dish with parsley. If the tongue is to be eaten hot, take off the skin, wrap it in a sheet of oiled paper, and put in a little hoiHng liquor for a quarter of an hour before dishing it, to make it quite hot. Garnish the dish with brussels sprouts, cauliflowers, dressed spinach, or any other vegetables, and send tomato or piquant sauce to table with it. Time : a largo smoked tongue, four hours and a half ; a small smoked tongue, two and a half to three hours ; a large unsmoked tongue, three hours and a half; a small one, two to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Tongue, Carving of. Begin to take slices, not too thin, from the middle of the tongue, and afterwards cut slices from each side, being careful not to cut quite through the tongue. The extreme tip is usually left and used for grating. A little of the fat should be put upon each plate. "\\Tien the tongue is roUed, it should be cut in very thin slices horizontally. Tongue, Dresden (A German recipe). Procure a fresh bullock's tongue, wash well, and wipe it quite dry. Put a large piece of butter into a ste-ft'pan, which must be deep enough to close well. Dredge in some flour; place the tongue in the stewpan ; let it brown nicely on one side, then turn it. When nicely browned all over, season it well ; add a pint and a half of water. Cover close, and let it simmer not boil three hours and a haK. Add more water if the gravy wastes much. There must be enough left to serve with the tongue, which is eaten hot with potatoes, but it is equally good cold. Garnish and serve with slices of lemon. German National Cookery. Tongue, Fresh Ox. Put the tongue on the fire in cold water, simmer slowly till tender, and then remove the skin. Melt two ounces of butter in a stcAvpan ; dust in a tablespoonful of flour and as much grated bread as the butter will take up, and brown. Mince small a few rashers of bacon, do the same with an onion, and add them to the sauce with the juice of a lemon and a slice of its peel. Thin the sauce with a little broth or water in which the tongue was boiled. Lay in the tongue, sprinkle with salt, cover, and let it simmer slowly for an hour. Tongue, Hungarian. Put a fresh tongue on the fire with just cold water enough to cover it, and with it a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices of lemon, some black pepper, salt, and a little garlic. Let it simmer gently for about two hours till quite tender. Skin and trim it. Either serve it whole or cut in slices, and arranged in a ring with the following thick sauce in the centre: Strain the liquor which the tongue was cooked in (this should be reduced in the simmering to a mere gravy) ; brown a large table-spoonful of flour in a good-sized piece of butter ; braize two or three cloves of garlic, and let them steam a little while in the browning ; then add the strained gravy by degrees, stirring it quite 67 smooth. Add a little lemon-juico or vinegar ; and, whether it be served whole or sliced, the sauce must be dished with the tongue. If garlic is objected to, make a thick sauce of grated horseradish, a carrot bruised fine, sorrel, capers, and a little wine. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley Gcrmayi National Oookery, Tongue, Miroton of, with Turnips. Stew the tongue as in the recipe Tongue, Beef, with Sauce Hachee ; then let it cool, cut it into scallops, dish it miroton fashion, and place the dish covered at the mouth of the oven. A short time before sending it to table, glaze it with a light glaze, and pour into the centre some brown haricot sauce. Tongue, Pickled or Salted. Tongues are generally bought ready pickled, but as some cooks like to prepare their own tongues, two or three methods are here given. Of these the simplest is the following : Trim the root, and leave a little of the fat ; place the tongue in a deep dish, cover with salt, and let it lie until the next day. Pour off the slime that will have come from it, and rub it well with a mixture made of half a pound of common salt, i half a pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of i saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for a week, renew the pickle, and turn and rub it ; every day for another week, when it will be ready for use. Or, trim the root, put the tongue in a deep pan, cover with salt, and let it lie for twenty-four hours. Drain off the slime, and rub it with a mixture made as follows : Take three pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, three ounces of saltpetre, with a quarter of an ounce each of cloves, mace, and pepper, two table-spoonfuls of mixed herbs finely chopped thyme, marjoram, bay-leaves, winter savory, and basil. Pound these ingxedients in a mortar, and mix them thoroughly. Rub this mixture into the tongue, and turn and rub it every day for twelve days or a fortnight, when it will be ready for use. Or let the tongue lie in salt for twenty-four hours as above. Rub into it a mi.xture made with half a pound of common salt, half an ounce of bay-salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar. Turn and rub it every day for three weeks for a small tongue, four weeks for a large one. Or make a pickle by boiling a pound of salt, a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and three ounces of sal prunella in a gallon of water for twenty minutes. Let the brine get cold, then put ? the tongue into it, and let it lie for a fortnight, and lay a small board on the top to keep the meat under the liquor. This pickle may be used several times if it is boiled occasionally. Tongues are always best when used straight out of the pickle. When this is not convenient, however, they should be taken out, rubbed dry, hung up to keep, and smoked, if liked. Tongue, Potted. Take the remains of a cold boiled tongue. Remove all the hard parts, cut the meat into smaU pieces, and afterwards pound it to a smooth paste; season with cayenne, and beat with it one-fourth of its weight in clarified butter. Press it into TOW ( 986 ) TOW Email jars, cover it about a quarter of an inch deep with, clarified butter, melted dripping, or melted suet, and let it stand three or fourhours before it is used. A smaller proportion of butter -wUl be required if a little of the fat of the tongue is used instead of lean only, but the butter must not be entirely dispensed with. Some cooks season the meat by degrees with a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and as much grated nutmeg as ?wall cover a thi-eepenny piece to each pound of tongue. Potted tongue is excellent when pounded with its weight in well-dressed cold chicken, cold veal, or cold partridge. Time the tongue to be pounded tiLl reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Tongue, Roasted. Parboil a tongue that has been salted about ten days ; roast, baste with red wine, and frost it at last with butter. Serve with a rich gravy and sweet sauce. Tongue, Rolled. Take a large oxtongue. If dry, soak it in plenty of cold water before dressing it; if fresh from the pickle, soak it for two or three hours only. Put it into a large stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savomy herbs ; bring it slowly to the boil, remove the scimi as it rises, and simmer gently until tender. Take oil the skin which will come off easily if the tongue is sufficiently dressed trim the roots, remove the bones, and press the tongue, fat inwards, into a round tin just large enough to hold it. Put a dish with a weight upon it, and let it remain until cold. Turn it out, glaze it, or tie a napkin neatly round it, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Time,, a large smoked tongue, four hoiu-s and a half ; a small smoked tongue, three hours; a large unsmoked tongue, three hours and a half ; a small one, two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufiicient for a breakfast, supper, or luncheon dish. Tongue Soup. Take the liquor in which a tongue has been boiled. Strain and skim it, and put it into a stewpan with the trimmings of the tongue, and any bones or trimmings of fowl or veal that may be at hand, or, failing these, two pennyworth of fresh bones. Bring it to the boil, and skim carefully, then let it simmer gently for three or foux' hoirrs. At the end of that time put with it a large carrot, a turnip, an onion, five or six outer sticks of celery, and a large pinch of cayenne, and let it sinuner an hour longer. Strain it, and let it get cool, so that the fat may be entirely removed. Put it again upon the fire, and when it boils throw into it a large carrot and a large turnip, cut into dice, and two table-spoonfuls of the thin end of a dried tongue finely grated. Serve with toasted sippets. Time, thi-ee or four hours to boil the liquor with the bones. Probable cost, 2d. per quart, exclusive of the tongue. Sufficient, a quart for four people. Tongue, Sour (A German recipe). Take a fi-esh tongue, and steep it for from two to four days in a pickle composed of a wine-glassful of vinegar, two or three slices of lemon, and either an onion, shallot, or garlic sliced, six cloves, two bay-lciives, and a tea-spoonful of black pepper. V len about to dress it, wipe the tongue dry. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, sprinkle in a good handful of bread- crimibs, and di-edge in flour to brown. Mince a couple of rashers of bacon, and add them. Strain in the pickle. Add enough water or broth to thin the sauce moderately. Lay in the tongue, and simmer it till quite tender. Should the sauce not be piquant enough, add vinegar or lemon- juice, a glassful of claret, and a little cayenne. When the tongue is peeled, pour over it a little of the sauce, and serve the rest in a tureen. Tongue, Stewed. Wash a tongue, and trim away the coarser parts of the root. Eub it well with common salt and a small quantity of saltpetre, let it lie for a week, and turn and rub it every day. Boil in the usual way until it is tender. Pull off the skin, and put the tongue again into the stewpan with part of the strained liquor in which it was boiled, a pint of strong stock, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bayleaves, and five or six outer sticks of celery. i Let it simmer gently for an hour. Lift out I the herbs and the celery, and season the gravy with a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a little salt if necessary, two pounded cloves, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of lemon or walnut pickle, and a glassful of white wine, and thicken with flour and butter. Serve the tongue on a hot dish. Pour the sauce over it, and send stewed mushrooms to table with it. If any gravy is left, it may be used advantageously for stews. Time, one hour to stew the tongue after it is peeled. Probable cost, tongue, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tongue, Stewed (another way). Simmer the tongue for two hours in just enough water to cover it ; peel it, and return it to the water, adding some pepper, mace, and cloves tied up ra a piece of muslin. Cut some turnips and capers very small, slice some carrots, and add these also to the liquor with half a pint of beef gravy, a wine-glassful of white wine, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all together very gently for an hour and a half longer ; take out the sj ice and sweet herbs, and thicken the gra-\y with flour worked into a small piece of butter. Tongue, To Serve a Cut. A pretty dish may be made from a tongue which has been cut into and partially used. Cut the tongue into thin round slices, and arrange them" in a circle round a dish, each piece overlapping the next. Garnish the sides with a border of chopped parsley. If liked, the slices may be lightly glazed. Some cooks warm the slices in a little nicely-flavoured brown sauce, and serve them hot with the sauce poured over them. Tongue with Aspic Jelly. Boil a tongue in the usual way, and either roll it, or fix it on a board till quite cold. Take a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, perfectly free from fat and sediment, and put it into a stewpan. with a small sprig of thyme, three TON ( 987 ) TRA shallots, a bay-leaf, a smaU piece of mace, three cloves, and two ounces of gelatine. (Stir it until the latter is dissolved, then lift it to the side of the fire, and let it cool. Whisk the whites of two eggs with a cupful of cold water and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir this into the liquor, and when it is very hot leave it to boil, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour without being touched. Lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for for ten minutes longer, then strain it thi'ough a jelly-bag till clear. Glaze the tongue, put it on its dish, and ornament with the jelly cut into cubes. Time to make the aspic, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, aspic, Is. 6d. Sufficient for one tongue. Tongues, Glazed. The appearance of cold boiled tongue is very greatly improved by glazing. Glaze may either be made at home (see Glaze) which is rather a difficult operation, as it may be so easily burnt or it may be bought in skins. In either case, take a small portion and put it into a jelly-pot, set this in a pan with a small quantity of boiling water, and keep the water boiling until the glaze is dissolved. Brush the tongue all over with the glaze, or, rather, lay the glaze lightly and equally on the tongue with a brush, and when one coat is dry, put on a second, and a third if necessary; but, generally speaking, two coats will be found sufficient. Tongues, Pickle for {see Pickle for Beef, Pork, and Tongues). Tongues, Pickle for (another way). See Pickle for Tongues. Tongues, Roots of. As the roots of a tongue generally have an imsightly appearance, they may be trimmed oif, and either potted according to the directions given above, or made into pea soup as follows : Put the trimmings of the tongue into a stewpan with some roast beef bones or fresh bones, a quart of spht peas (which have been soaked for six or eight hours in cold water), and three quarts of the liquor in which meat has been boiled. Failing this, use cold water. Add two or three onions, a sprig of thjTne or marjoram, a bimch of parslej', a bay-leaf, and five or six outer sticks of celery. Let the liquor boil, skim carefull)', and afterwards simmer gently until the peas arc tender, stirring frequently to keep them from sticking to the bottom. Press the whole through a sieve, working it with the back of a wooden spoon, put it back into the pan, and let it boil again for about a quarter of an hour ; add salt i and pepper, and it will be ready for serving. Care must be taken that the peas are not put into salted liquor, or they will not easily become tender. Time to simmer the peas and the meat, about three hours, according to the quality of the peas. Probable cost, exclusive of the roots, 3d. a quart. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Tongues, Sheep's. Wash half a dozen sheep's tongues, put them into a saucepan with as much boiling stock as wiU cover them, and let them simmer gently until tender. Take off the skin, and trim the tongues in halves. Dish them in a circle, the roots in the centre, and pour into the centre mashed turnips, green peas, or a little onion sauce. Time to simmer, one hour or more. Probable cost, about 4d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tongues, Sheep's, Salted. Wash half a dozen sheep's tongues, and rub into each one a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, a table-spoonful of salt, and a few di'ops of strong vinegar or lemon- juice. Let them lie for five days. Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water as will cover them. Let them boil, then tlraw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer them gently until tender. Take off the skin, trim the root neatly, and split the tongues in halves. Arrange them in a circle round a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time to simmer, about an horn-. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for a breakfast or supper dish. Tottenhara Muffins. Beat three eggs till they are lightly frothed, and stir them into a quart of flour properly salted. Add as much lukewarm milk as will make a thick batter, and stir in a table-spoonful of clarified butter and a quarter of a pint of good fresh yeast. Cover the bowl containing the dough, and let it remain in a warm place till it is lightly risen. Take it out by spoonfuls, and drop it on a floured board. Let these remain for a quarter of an hour, then put them into muffin hoops and bake them. When one side is slightly brown turn them upon the other. Time to rise, about an hour. Probable cost, d. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Toulouse Ragout (for garnishing large or small dishes). Cook separately equal quantities of the following ingredients, as many as may be required for the dish it is intended to garnish : Button mushrooms, cockscombs, sliced truffles, quenelles, and scallops of sweetbread. Pour over these as much nicely-flavoui-ed white sauce as will cover them, and when they are quite hot the garnish will be ready for use. Time to simmer the whole together, three minutes. Town Pudding. Shred six ounces of suet very finely, and free it from skin. Mix with it a small pinch of salt, six ounces of moist sugar, half a pound of chopped apples (weighed after being pared and cored), half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and half a teaspoonful of finely-cut lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and press them very tightly into a buttered basin which they will quite fill. Tie a fioiured cloth over the pudding, and boil it four hours. It will not require any moisture. Turn it out carefully, and send sweet sauce or wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, four hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for haK a dozen persons. Transparent Dessert Cakes. Take a large cake (almost anj- kind wUl do), cut it into shces about the third of an inch thick, and stamp these into anj fancy shapes, such as diamonds, squares, hearts, stars, rounds, &c. Spread a little good jam over them, having previously hollowed the surface a little to keep the jam from running over the sides. Boil half a pound of refined loaf sugar with half a pint of water to the second degree. When this TRA ( 988 ) TEE point is reached, take it from the fire and set the bottom of the saucepan in a basin of cold watei' : as soon as the sugar begins to thicken beat it from the middle against the side of the pan for a minute or two, and add very gradually half a quarter of a pint of maraschino or cura oa and two or three spoonfuls of clear syrup. Spread a little of this preparation over the jam upon the cakes, and as each cake is masked lay it on a drainer in a dish, and when this is full place it in an open screen for a few minutes to dry. In order to ascertain when the sugar has reached the second degree, skim it carefully, dip a perforated spoon into it, and blow the sugar off into the pan. When it has boiled long enough, large bubbles will form on the holes of the skimmer. Transparent Paste for Tarts, &c. {see Paste, Transparent). Transparent Pie 'Crust. Take three quarters of a pound of sweet fresh butter, break it into little pieces, and put it into a jar until it is quite melted without being oiled. Let it cool, and mix with it a well-beaten fresh egg and one pojind of dried and sifted flour. EoU the paste very thin, line the tartlet tins as quickly as possible, and bake the tarts in a well-heated oven. Just before putting them in "brush them over with cold water, and sift a little powdered sugar over them. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd. for this quantit}'. Sufficient for two dishes of tarts. Transparent Pudding. "VMiisk eight eggs thoroughly. Put them into a saucepan with half a pound of powdered sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, and any flavouring that may be preferred, either grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, or almond flavouring. If fresh lemon-rind is used, a little lemon-juice may be added as well. Stir the mixtirre over the fire until it thickens, then pour it out to cool. Line the edges of a buttered baking-dish with good pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. It may be served either cold or hot. A little powdered sugar should be sifted over the pudding before sending it to table. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Treacle Beer. Boil three-quarters of a pound of hops in eighteen gallons of water. Add seven pounds of good treacle, and stir the liquid until the treacle is dissolved. Strain the beer, and when it is cool ferment with half a l ound of yeast. In winter time it will be found an imiH'ovement to boil a little cayenne with the hops. Treacle-Beer (another way). One gallon of boiling water to two pounds of treacle, with half a pint of yeast : put these into a cask, and cover the whole close over: in three days it will be ready for use. If the beer is intended for keeping, put in a small quantity of malt and hops, and when it has done woiking stop it up. Treacle Cheesecakes. Line a buttered plate or large tartlet-tin with good short crust. and then fill it with a mixture prepared as follows : Stir a table-spoonful of flour into four table-spoonfuls of good treacle, and when the preparation is quite smooth add as much powdered ginger as will lie on a fourpenny -piece. Ornament the cheesecakes by laying twists of pastry across the top, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, half an houi\ Probable cost, Sd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Treacle Parkin. Put four ounces of butter with three-quarters of a pound of best treacle into a jar, and place this near the fire until the butter is dissolved, then stir in four ounces of moist sugar. Mix a pound of oatmeal with half a pound of flour, three-quarters of an oimce of powdered ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of caraway-seeds. Stir the treacle, &c., into the oatmeal, and make the mixtm-e into a firm paste with a little flour. Roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and bake in buttered tartlet-tins in a moderate oven. If liked, the caraway-seeds may be omitted, and a little sHced candied-peel added when the parkin is rolled on the table. Keep the parkin in tins carefully excluded from the air. Or rub one pound of butter into four pounds of oatmeal, add half a pound of sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, and as much warm treacle as will make a tolerably stiff batter. A cupful of milk may be added if liked. Put the batter into buttered baking-tins, or small tartlet-tins, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when it is done enough, put a skewer into the centre, and if this comes out dry and clean the parkin is ready. A little sliced candied-peel or a few caraway-seeds may be added if approved. Time to bake, according to size : the parkin should be done rather slowly, or the outside will be burnt before the inner part is done enough. Treacle Posset. Boil half a pint of new milk, and as it is rising in the pan stir into it two table-spoonfuls of treacle. Boil until the curd separates, then drain it off, and boil the posset again. Treacle posset should be taken the last thing before going to bed. It is an excellent thing for promoting perspiration. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for one person. Treacle Pudding. Make some good crust with suet or dripping, and roll it out to the thickness of a third of an inch. Butter a pudding-basin, and lino it with the pastry. Put a layer of pastry at the bottom, then a layer of treacle, and repeat until the basin is full. Put a cover on the top, moisten the , and pinch them closely together. Wring pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it well, and tie it securely over the basin. Plunge the pudding into as much boiling water as will cover it, and boil quickly and without ceasing until it is done enough. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve very hot. If liked, a little lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and fine bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over each layer of treacle. Time to boil, three hours for a moderate-sized pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost. Is. THE ( 989 ) TRI Treacle Pudding (another way). IMake some good firm suet pastry, roll it out to the third of an inch in thickness, and longer than it is broad. Spread treacle all over it within half an inch of the edge. Wet the edges, roll up the pudding into the form of a bolster, and fasten the ends securely. Wring a puddingdoth out of boiling water, flour it wcU, fold it round the pudding, and tie the ends firmly. Plunge the pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. If liked, a table-spoonful of flour and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground ginger may be mixed with every four table-spoonf ids of treacle, or a little grated lemon-rind, the juice of a lemon, and a few bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over the treacle. When the puddingis done enough, let it cool a minute or two, turn it out carefully, serve on a hot dish, and send melted butter to table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a half, or more, according to the size. Probable cost, Is. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Treacle Toffee.- Rub the saucepan with butter, and pour in as much treacle as may be wanted. Let it boil gently until a small portion will break between the teeth after beingthrown into cold water. When the toffee has reached this point it should be taken at once ofi: the fire, or it will very quickly acquire a burnt taste. Pour it upon a buttered dish, and when it is cool roll it into sticks, and fold it in clean white paper. The toffee may, if liked, be flavoured with essence of peppermint, or almond, or lemon flavouring, and it is said that a little cayenne pepper thrown into treacle toffee is an excellent cure for a cough. Trifle. This is a compound of syllabub and sweetmeats. Line the bottom of a glass trifledish with sponge biscuits stuck with blanched almonds; moisten them with sweet wine, or with sherry and sugar. Over these lay a dozen ratafia cakes dipped in noyeau. Intersperse with these some thin slices of citron and orangepeel, and distribute over these pieces of apricot and raspberry jam with currant jelly. Pour over these a few spoonfuls of the liquor of the syllabub. The next layer should consist of tartlet cream of about the thickness of an inch, over which grate some nutmeg, and strew a little powdered cinnamon, together with a small quantity of lemon-peel, and some powdered loaf-sugar. Lastly, take the whipped froth from the sieve, and put it on the top as abundantly as the dish will contain. To give it a pleasing appearance, strew various coloured comfits over the froth. The tartlet cream to form one of the layers may be made as follows : j\Iix together half a pint of cream and the same quantity of milk ; put into it a piece of fresh lemon or Seville orange-peel, and a little cinnamon, and sweeten with loaf sugar. Let these ingredients boil about ten minutes. Have ready prepared in another pan the yolks of six eggs well-beaten up with a heaped tea-spoonful of fine flour ; to these gradually strain the boiled ingredients, and then whisk them well together over a gentle fire, so that they may acquire the proper consistence without curdling. If you are deficient of cream, milk only may be employed, but in that case a little more flour ?will be required. Webster and Farkes. Trifle (another way). The whipped cream which is laid over the top of a trifle should be made the day before it is wanted, as then it will be much firmer. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon with two or thi-ee lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, then add a little more sugar to make up the quantity to three ounces, and crush it to powder. Warm a pint of cream, and stir the sugar in this till it is dissolved. Add a glassful of sherry, a tea-spoonful of the juice of the lemon, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the whites of two eggs, which have been whisked separately to a firm froth. Mill or whip the mixture in a cool place, and a& the froth rises take it oft', and place it on an inverted sieve to drain. Continue whisking until the whole of the cream is frothed, and set the sieve in a cool place, or upon ice, with a dish under it. The next day put four sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of macaroons, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish, and pour over them a large wineglassful of sherry, and another of brand}', or if preferred \ise two parts wine and one part spirit, and let the biscuits soak till they have absorbed all the liquor. Grate a little lemonrind upon the cakes, and spread over them a layer of good jam, then cover them with a pint of nicely-flavoured rich cold custard. Pile the whipped cream lightly over the top as high as possible, and then garnish the dish with pink comfits, bright-coloured jelly, or flowers. Time, about one hour and a half to whip the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and spirit, 4s. 6d., if the custard be made with milk. Sufficient for one trifle. Trifle (another way.) Whip a pint of cream the day before it is wanted, according to the directions given in the last recipe ; as the froth rises lay it on a reversed sieve to drain. Take two dozen finger biscuits ; spread a little raspberry jam on the flat side of twelve of them, and press the other twelve upon it. Arrange these round a trifle-dish, put a quarter of a pound of macaroni, a quarter of a pound of ratafias, and four penny sponge cakes at the bottom of the dish ; pour over them a glassful of sherry or madeira and a glassful of brandy, and let them soak till they have absorbed all the liquor. Pour a pint of rich cold custard over the soaked biscuits, and pile the whipped cream on the top. The custard may be made with a pint of milk, the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a table- spoonful of brandy, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Time, twenty-four hours to drain the whipped cream; two hours to soak the biscuits ; ten minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and spirit, 4s. 1 Od. Sufficient for one centre dish. Trifle, An Elegant. Makea whip theday before the trifle is wanted, as no whip is solid unless it has stood for some hours. It should be made -with a quart of thick cream, nearly all of the rind of two lemons, a glassful of sheiry, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Whisk the TBI ( 990 ) TRI mixture briskly, and as the froth forms lay it on an inverted sieve to drain. Put a quarter of a pound of ratafias, a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and three or four sponge biscuits at the bottom of a trifle-dish, and pour over them a pint of nicely-flavoured liquid calfs-foot jelly, and set this "in a cool place to stiffen. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a little water, and put with it a pint of thick cream, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. When this is cool, pour it over the jelly, and as it begins to set ornament with bright-coloured jam and macaroni soaked in wine. Pile the whijiped cream high on the top, and the trifle will be ready for serving. Probable cost, 7s., exclusive of the wine and brandy. Sufficient for one centre dish. Trifle, Apple . Make a whip the day before the trifle is wanted, as for other trifles, using a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar, a glassful of sherry, and the white of an egg. Lay the froth on an inverted sieve, and leave it in a cool place. Peel, core, and slice a dozen fine apples, and put them into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and two of water, and let them simmer gently until c uite soft. JPress them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp the grated rind of half a lemon and a tablespoonful of brandy but the brandy may be omitted. Make a thin custard with haK a pint of cream,half a pint of milk, and a little sugar, and stii- the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken, but do not let it boil. Lay the pulped apples at the bottom of the trifle-dish ; when the custard is cool pour it over them, pile the whipped cream high on the top, and the trifle will be ready for serving. It may be ornamented with stripes of bright apple jelly. "When it is not convenient to make the whipped cream, an inexpensive and simple substitute may be made as follows : AVhisk the whites only of three eggs to a firm froth ; sweeten and flavour them, drop them in large spoonfuls into boiling water for a quarter of a minute, and turn them lightly over in the water that they may be set all round. Let them drain two or three minutes, and pile them over the custard. The appearance of the dish may be varied by slightly colouring half the whisked eggs with cochineal. Time, about half an hour to stew the apples. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., if cream be used. Sufficient for a small trifle-dish. Trifle, Gooseberry. Wash a pint of een gooseberries, and stew them gently with a little water until they break; press them through a sieve, tlu-ow away the skins, and sweeten the pulp agreeably. INIake a thin custard, as recommended for apple trifle, and when it begins to thicken, pour it out and let it cool. Mix it with the fruit pulp, lay it on the trifle-dish, and pile whipped cream on the top, as for other trifles. Time, about half an hour to simmer the gooseberries. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., if made with cream. Sufficient for a trifle-dish. Trifle, Gooseberry (another way). Prepare the gooseberry-pulp as in the last recipe. Cut four or five rather stale penny sponge cakes into slices, lay them in a deep glass dish, pour over them a wine-glassful of brandy and a wine-glassful of sherry, and let them soak till they have absorbed the liquor. Spread the gooseberry-pulp upon them, and cover the fruit with the following preparation: Sweeten a pint of new milk, and flavour with lemonrind or any other agreeable flavoui-ing. Mix two table-spoonfuls of Oswego very smoothly with a quarter of a pint of cold milk ; add three well-beaten eggs, and then mix all thoroughly. I\Iake the flavoured milk hot without letting it boil, and stir it into the rest. Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and beat it over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out to cool, and stir frequently. When cold, spread it over the fruit. This dish should be made two or three hours before it is wanted. Time, half an hour to boil the gooseberries ; about half an hour to make the Oswego. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy and wine. Is. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Trifle, Ground Rice. Sweeten a quart of milk, and flavour with lemon or any other suitable flavouring. Put it into a saucepan, and stir into it five heaped table-spoonfuls of ground rice which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Let the mixture boil gently for five or six minutes, stirring all the time, and pour it into a basin until it is slightly cooled. Place a jelly-pot in the middle of a glass dish, pour the ground rice round it, and let it get cold and stiff. Just before serving the rice, remove the jelly-pot, and in its place put half a pint of good cold custard. Stick blanched and sliced almonds all over the trifle, and garnish w-ith bright fruit jelly. If liked, the ai:)pearance of the dish may be varied by pouring the rice into a glass dish, and when it is cold and stifE cutting it out into the shape of a star, a diamond, or any other shape, then removing the spare rice and filling the spaces it occupied with custard. Time, four or five hours to stiffen. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Trifle, Lord Mayor's {see Lord Mayor's Trifle). Trifle, Swiss. Take two ounces each of macaroons and ratafias ; crumble them, put them at the bottom of a glass dish, and then pour over them two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon and a quarter of an inch of stick cinnamon in a pint of cream until the flavour is drawn out. Lift them out, sweeten the cream, and stir into it a thin batter made of four tea-spoonfuls of ground rice, or, if preferred, fine flour mixed smoothly with a little cold milk. Stir this mixture over a gentle fire until it boils, and continue to simmer it, stirring imceasingly for four minutes. Pour it out, let it get cold, then add gradually the strained juice of two fresh lemons. Spread the custard over the biscuits, and stick blanched and sliced almonds over the surface. This trifle should be made some hours before it is wanted. Time, foiir minutes to stir the custard over the fire after it has boiled. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. TRI ( 991 ) TRI Trifles, Savoury. Any kind of cold meat, game, fish, or shell-fish may be elegantly served as follows : Mince the meat, season it, and warm it in a little sauce, as if it were to be used for vol-au-vents or patties. Make some paper cases by pressing a round of thick writing-paper into a circular wooden box to take the shape. Lightly oil these cases inside and out, fill them with the savoury mince, and j)ut them into a brisk oven for a minute or two to make them hot. Sprinkle a few breadcrumbs over the top, and send the trifles to table neatly arranged on a napkin. They will make a pretty comer dish. Time to heat the mince in the cases, two or three minutes. Trinity College Pudding. Mince four ounces of cold boiled tongue very finely, and mix with it eight ounces of finely- shi-ed suet, eight ounces of grated bread-crumbs, a tjuarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of picked and dried currants, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of shred candied peel, a small table-spoonful of flour, and a little salt and mixed spice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a paste by stirring in with them the wellbeaten yolks of four eggs, the white of one, and a glassful of brandy. Turn the pudding into a buttered shape which it will quite fill, cover it with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out carefully before serving. Time to boil, about three hours. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Tripe. Tripe is usually prepared for dressing before being oft'ered for sale. It should be perfectly fresh, thoroughly cleansed, thick, fat, and as white as possible. The honeycomb is generally preferred. If entirely un(i-essed it requires to be most carefully cleaned and to be gently boiled for six or eight hours before it can be used. It may be cooked in various ?ways, the most usual of which is to boil it till tender and serve with onion sauce. Tripe (a la Lyonnaise). When there is any tripe remaining from the previous day, it may be sent to table again prepared as follows: Take a pound of cold boiled tripe, diy it well, and cut it in pieces an inch square. Dissolve two ounces of butter in an omelet-pan, slice a large onion into this, and fry it over a gentle fire until it is tender. Put the pieces of tripe with it, and also a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Heat all gently together for a minute, and serve immediately. Time, five or six minutes to fry the tripe and onions. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per poimd. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tripe, Baked. Take a pound of fresh dressed white tripe. Wash it in cold water, and cut into neat squares. Slice half a dozen onions, and fry them lightly in butter. Put them into an earthen baking-dish which has a closely-fitting lid, lay the tripe upon them, and sprinkle over it a large table-spoonful of flour and a little pepper and salt. Cover the whole "with milk, put on the lid, and bake the tripe in a moderate oven. When done enough, skim the fat from the top, and serve the tripe on a hot dish. Some cooks substitute cider for the milk, and also put a table- spoonful of Indian chutnee with the meat before baking it. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per poimd. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tripe, Beef (see Beef Tripe), Tripe, Boiled. Take two pounds of perfectly clean dressed tripe. If there be time, soak it in milk for some hours before boUing, and if it should haj pen that the milk turns sour, the acidity which the tripe will thus acquire will improve it rather than otherwise. If the tripe cannot be soaked, wash it in cold water, then cut it into pieces about three inches long and two broad. Put it into a saucepan, and cover with equal parts of cold milk and water. Let it boil, then add eight moderatesized white onions, a table-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Cover the pan closely, and simmer the tripe gently until tender. Lift out the onions, mince them finely, and press them through a coarse sieve. Mix with them as much melted butter made with, milk instead of water as will make a thick sauce, and serve the tripe on a hot dish with the sauce poured over it, or, if j referred, the sauce may be served separately in a tureen. Some cooks flavour the sauce with mustard and a little -vinegar. Time to boil, about two hours. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per lb. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tripe, Curried. IMince finely three or four large onions, put them in a stewpan with, two ounces of butter, and fry them until they are tender. Rub them through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a table-spoonful of ground rice and a table- spoonful of curry paste. Add gradually a pint of stock, and stir the sauce over the fire until it boils. Cut two pounds of fresh-dressed tripe into strips ; put it into the sauce with a little more stock, let it boil gently for an hom-, and remove the scum, carefully as it rises. Serve on a hot dish, and send rice boiled as for curry to table with it. Time to simmer the tripe, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tripe, Eggs a la. Make a little roux with fiour and butter ; fry a few chopped onions cut square in the same stewpan before the roux is made brown. Moisten with some good boiling milk, with pepper and salt. Let the flour and onions be well done, and keep the sauce rather thick. Next have ten eggs boiled hard, cut them in quarters or in round shccs, and put them into the sauce. Stir gently that the yolk may not separate from the white, and serve up. Tripe for Invalids. Take half a pound of fresh-dressed tripe. Wash it, cut it into squares, and remove almost all the fat. Cut up half a pound of lean beef in the same way, and put both into a stewpan with half a pint of cold water, half a spoonful of mustard, a small lump of sugar, and a little salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, sMm carefully, then draw TRI (992 ) TBI the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for three hours. Mix a teaspoonful of corn-flour to a smooth paste with about a table-spoonful of cold water. Stir this into the sauce, and boil it gently for a few minutes. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Time to simmer the tripe, three hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for one person. Tripe, French way of Dressing. Take one pound and a half of fresh white tripe. Cut it into convenient-sized pieces, put it into a stewpan with as much strong veal broth as will cover it, and let it simmer gently for four hours. Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, one shallot finely minced, half a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over these a quarter of a pint of good white sauce, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire until the vegetables are tender. Add as much veal broth as will make the sauce of the consistency of melted butter, and boil it gently until it is very smooth. Serve the tripe in a deep dish with the sauce poured over it. Time to stew the tripe, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Suflicient for four or five persons. Tripe. Fricasseed. Take about two pounds ot fresh tripe as sold by the vendors ; cut it into pieces three inches long and two broad, wash it in cold water, and c&y it in a cloth. Put it into a stewpan, cover with equal parts of milk and water, add two onions and a bunch of parsley, and simmer gently for an hour. Rub an ounce of butter smoothly with a little flour, moisten with a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir it into the sauce. Add the thin rind of half a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and the eighth part of a grated nutmeg ; then simmer for another houi\ Put the tripe into a hot dish, take the sauce from the fire, stir a lump of fresh butter into it until it is dissolved, and pour it over the tripe. In stewing the tripe be careful that it does not burn to the bottom of the pan. A dish of boiled rice is a suitable accompaniment to tripe prepared in this way. Time to stew, two hours. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tripe, Fried. The remains of cold boiled tripe are required for this dish. If fresh tripe is used, it should be first boiled till tender in water mixed with a fourth part of vinegar, and then allowed to cool. Make a little fryingbatter as follows: Mix three-quarters of a pound of flour with a tea-spoonful of salt, and beat it till smooth with two ounces of olive oil or oiled butter, a little more than half a pint of lukewarm water and three eggs. The water should be added gradually, and the batter should be well beaten, and afterwards set aside for an hour or two before being used. Dry the tripe, and cut it into neat squares. Dip the pieces separately into the batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly browned. The batter should be thick enough to coat the tripe. Serve the tripe on a hot dish, and sprinkle over it fried onions which have been sliced and divided into rings. Or serve it on a naiDkin, garnish with fried parsley, and send tomato or piquant sauce to table in a tureen, or a sauce prepared as follows: Mince a dozen shallots finely, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a small walnut, the strained juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of scraped horseradish, a tea-spoonful of fresh mustard, and a little salt and cayenne. Stir these ingredients over a brisk fire for three or four minutes, then pour over them nearly half a pint of new milk, and boil the sauce for five minutes. Beat the yolk of a fresh egg for a minute or two, and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Lift the sauce from the fire for a minute, and stir in the mixture, then put it on the fire once more, and stir it again until it is on the point of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, and it will be ready for serving. Time, two hours to boil the tripe ; fifteen to twenty minutes to fry it. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Tripe (German mode of preparing). Take a sufficient quantity of tripe, blanch and boil it till tender ; then cut two or three onions small, and steam them till they are soft in a good piece of butter. Mix a thickening of mUk and flour or milk and bread-crumbs to make a thick sauce. Add a sprig of marjoram, a little nutmeg, some white pepper, salt, and some chopped parsley. Stir the preparation till it boils thick and smooth. Cut the tripe into long narrow strij s, and simmer it a short time in the sauce. Tripe, Grilled. Clean the tripe, simmer it very gently in nicely-flavoured stock, and boil with it an onion stuck with two cloves, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. When it is quite tender take it up, drain it, and cut it into pieces two inches square. Take equal quantities of minced parsley and chives, add a little pepper and salt, and make the mixtiu'e into a paste with a little oiled butter or dripping and lemon-juice. Dip the pieces of tripe into this batter, cover them with bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Send piquant sauce to table with them. Time to broil, till lightly browned. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound of tripe for two or three persons. Tripe, Irish {see Irish Tripe). Tripe, Normandy Way of Dressing. Clean, scald, and scrape one pound and a half of tripe repeatedly, cut it into neat squares, and put it into a stewpan with a large carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, three ounces of bacon cut into dice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, and six or eight peppercorns. Add one or two ounces of fat, and cover the whole with cider, white wine, or, failing these, cold sj ring water. Let the tripe simmer very gently till it is quite tender. Place it on a dish, and pour the strained sauce over it. Time, undressed tripe, si.x or seven hours. Tripe Pie. Tripe which is to be used for a pie should be stewed, and allowed to jelly in the liquor in which it was boiled. Line the inside of a pie-dish with good pastry. Put a slice of tender steak or a little undressed ham TBI ( 993 ) TRO at the bottom of the dish, and place upon this the tripe with the jellied gravy adhering to it. Season with pepper and salt, place little pieces of butter here and there on the meat, and pour in two or three spoonfuls of good brown gravy. Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is sufficiently cooked it is done enough. Time to bake, according to size. Probable cost, tsipe, 8d. per pound. Tripe, Roasted. Take about a pound and a half of tripe, wash, and boil it in milk and w.ater for an hour. Cut it into two oblong pieces of equal size, spread on the fat side of one piece some good veal forcemeat, and lay upon it the other piece the fat side inwards. Eoll and skewer the tripe securely, and tie it round with thin string. Fasten it on the spit, put it down before a clear fire, dredge with flour, and baste liberally. When done enough, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with sliced lemon. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. Time to roast, half an hour or more. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per poiuid. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tripe Stewed in its own Jelly (Birmingham way). Take some clean, fat, white tripe. Throw it into boiling water for ten minutes, drain and dry it, and cut it into pieces. EoU these up neatly, and tie them round with thin string. Put them into an earthen jar which has a closely-fitting lid, and put with them a knuckle of veal or a calf's foot, and a little salt and pepper. Place the lid on the jar, and put it in a large pan of boiling water, keep it boiling, and add more water when required. When done enough, lift out the jar without disturbing the contents, and put it in a cool place. The tripe should remain in its own jelly until wanted, whcr.i it may be taken out and dressed in various waj's. It will keep for three or four days. Time to stew, eight hours or more. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Tripe Stewed with. Bacon. Take two pounds of fresh white tripe, haK a pound of bacon, and a calf's foot. Cut the tripe into pieces three inches square, and scald these in boiling water for five minutes. Bone the foot, scald it for ten minutes, and cut it into six or eight pieces. Divide the bacon also into pieces convenient for serving. Put the meat into a stewpan with a large bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three large onions, two cloves, and a little pepper and salt, and pour in as much broth as will cover the whole. A glassful of brandy may be added or not. Cover the saucepan closely, let its contents boil, then draw it to the side, and let them simmer very gently until the meat is done enough. Take out the herbs, skim the sauce carefully, and serve the stewed meat in a tureen with the sauce poured over it. Send it to table as hot as possible. Time to stew, three hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. [ Trotters, Sheep's. Take six or eight I sheep's feet. Eemove the wool, and singe them, i then throw them into fast-boiling water, let them boil quickly for five minutes, drain them, I and let them cool. Take the foot firmly in the left hand, give the bone a jerk with the right hand, and draw it out. Cut the hoof from the end of the foot, and put the feet into cold water. Let them boil, then simmer them as gently as possible until they are quite tender. Fill them with good veal forcemeat, and bind the feet with packthread to keep them in shape. Put them into a stewj an with as much of the liquor in which they were boiled as will cover them, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil them gently for half an hom-, lift them out, and lay them on a dish. Strain the sauce, boil it down to glaze, and brush this over the feet. The trotters may be accompanied by tomato sauce, Kobert sauce, or piquant sauce, and any stewed vegetables, or they may be eaten cold with oil and vinegar. Time to boil the trotters, three or four hours. Sufficient, three or four for a small dish. Trotters, Sheep's (another way). -Sec also Mutton Trotters. Trotters, Sheep's, Pried. Stuflt and stew the trotters as above. Make a fryingbatter as follows : ilix a pinch of salt with five ounces of flour, and mix smoothly with this a quarter of a pint of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of olive oil or oiled butter, and add the mixture to the batter. Put it in a cool place for an hour or two, and a few minutes before it is wanted stir in the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Dip the trotters into the batter, and then fry in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send tomato or Robert sauce to table with them. Time to fry, a few minutes. Sufficient, three or four for a small dish. Trotters, Sheep's, Marinaded. Bone and boil the trottei's till tender, according to the directions already given, and press them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into neat slices, and lay them in a marinade made with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a tablespoonful of oil, and a little pepper and salt. Let them lie in this for an hour, place them on a sieve, and drain for twenty minutes. Dip the pieces separately in batter, and fry them as in the last recipe. Time to boil, three hours and a half ; to fry, a few minutes. Trout. There are two or three kinds of trout common trout, sea trout, and white trout. The sea trout reaches a good size, but the white trout never does. River trout is a most delicious fish, highly esteemed by epicures. It is seldom met with of a large size, and those are most delicate in flavour which weigh from three quarters of a poimd to one pound. The female fish is considered better than the male. It may be known by its body being deeper and its head smaller than the other. Trout may be dressed in various ways, amongst which boiling is the last to be recommended, as it is then rather insipid in flavour. It is in season from May to September, and is in perfection in June. _ Trout (a la Genevesc). Take two moderatesized trout, clean carefully, and wipe them dry. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan, and put with it a smaU TRO ( 994 ) TRO onion stuck with, a clove, a small buncli of parsley, and a sprig of thjTne, a salt-spoonfiil of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Mix thoroughly, and add half a pint of sherry or madeira. Simmer the trout very gently for half an hour. Pour ofE the liquor, leavLug only sufficient to keep the lish moist, thicken with flour and butter, let it boil up, then serve the fish on a hot dish with part of the sauce poured over it and the rest in a tureen. If this dish is considered too extravagant, the fish may be boiled in stock flavoured with sherry, then thickened with floiu- and butter, and flavoured with the straiaed juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a little salt and cayenne. Time, half an hour to simmer the trout. Probable cost very uncertain. Sufficient for two or three persons. Trout (a I'Aurore). Take two moderatesized trout, empty them, remove the gills and fins, scrape ofE the scales, then wash carefully, and wipe them dry. Put into the kettle as much water as will cover the fish, and with each quart put a table-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Put the trout into the water when it is boiling, and boil gently: when the eyes start they are done enough. Lift them out carefully, drain them, place them in a hot dish, and cover entirely with a sauce prepared as follows : Beat the yolks of three eggs thoroughly, and mix with them a quarter of a pint of white sauce, an oiince of gTatcd parmesan, a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken ; it is then ready. Boil two eggs till hard, mince them finely, mix a table-spoonful of grated parmesan with them, and sprinkle the mixture over the fish. Put it in the oven for about a quarter of an hour till it is hot through, brown the surface with a salamander or red-hot shovel, then pour a little shrimp, tomato, or lobster sauce round the fish, and serve it very hot. Time, trout weighing about a pound, ten or twelve minutes to boil, large trout, twenty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for tlu'ce or four persons. Trout, Baked. Clean and dry the fish, and season them inside and out with a little salt and cayenne and a pinch of powdered mace if liked. Put them in a baking-dish, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon them. Baste occasionally with the liquor that collects in the pan. Baked trout may be served hot or cold. If served hot, the fish gravy should be mixed with a little good melted butter, and sent to table in a tureen. When it is a convenience, several trout may be baked together. They should be put into the dish in layers, and a little seasoning, chopped parsley, and butter should be placed between each layer. Time, according to size. The trout are done enough when the flesh leaves the bone easily. Trout, Baked (another way). Wash, empty, and dry three or four small trout, split them open, and remove the bones. Lay three or four thin slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a baking-dish, lay the trout upon these, skin uppermost, and sprinkle a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and chopped parsley over them. Bake in a quick oven, and serve very hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Trout, Baked (M. Ude's recipe). Having I'liiliticd and scaled the trout, put a well-seasoned stufling inside, then tm-n it round with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put the fish in a small quantity of marinade, so that it may not burn in the oven. Baste frequently, and let it be made a fine colour. When it is done reduce the liquor in which the trout has been baked, put in a good lump of fresh butter kneaded with flour, with a little essence of ancho\aes, a few fine capers, salt, and pepper, if the sauce is not sufficiently seasoned ; but be careful when you use anchovies not to use too much salt. Then squeeze the juice of a lemon, drain the fish, send it up to table with the sauce under it, but wdthout covering the fish. Trout, Boiled. Clean, empty, and dry the fish, and put them into fast-boUing water, to each quart of which a dessert-spoonful of salt and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar have been added. Eemove the scum as it rises, and boil the fish until the eyes start. Drain it, and lift it out carefully not to break the skin, serve on a hot napkin or fish-paper, and garnish with parsley or lemon. Send melted butter, shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, or Dutch sauce to table in a tureen. The great angler, Isaak Walton, recommends that trout should be boiled in a mixture of beer, vinegar, and water, in which the rind of a lemon, and a little rosemary, thyme, winter savory, and horseradish had been boiled. Time, a trout weighing one pound, from ten to twelve minutes' boiling; two poimds, fifteen minutes; three pounds, twenty minutes. Trout, Boiled Plain (M. Tide's recipe). After having emptied, scaled, and washed the fish, have some boiling water ready, into which put the trout with a good handful of salt only, but no vinegar, as it spoils the colour of the' fish. When it is done, drain it weU, and serve it up on a clean cloth garnished with parsley. Send up lobster sauce separately in a TRO ( 995 ) TRO boat, or Dutch sauce. The length of time it should boil is left to the judgment of the cook ; the size determines the time. But keep in mind that when the fish remains long in the ?water it loses its flavour and quality ; for this reason take care to boil it precisely at the time it is wanted. Trout, Broiled. Choose some moderatesized trout ; empty, wash, and dry them, then split the fish down the back, and, without injuring it, spread it open on a dish. Season with salt and cayenne, and a little lemonjuice, and brush it well all over with oil or clarified butter. Broil it over a clear fire, turning and basting it with butter every now and then. Serve on a hot dish, and send parsley, mushroom, or piquant sauce to table in a tureen. Some cooks split the trout open, rah them all over with salt, let them lie two or three hours, then hang them up till wanted, or for eight or ten houi-s before boiling them. Time, twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Trout, Choosing of. The female fish is considered the best. It may be known by its head being smaller and its body deeper than that of the male. When trout is fresh, the skin is most beautiful in appearance, silvery and golden tints intermingling, the eyes are bright, the gills red, and the body firm. The most delicate trout are those which weigh about a pound. The fish is in season from May to September. Trout, Collared. "Wash, empty, and dry the trout. Cut off the heads, split them open, and take out the bones. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace over the inside, roll each fish separately, and tie it round with a little cotton. Lay the fish side by side in a baking-dish, pour over them equal parts of beer and vinegar sufiicient to cover them, and put two or three bay-leaves, and a dozen peppercorns or more into the liquor. Tie a sheet of buttered paper ever the dish, and bake the trout in a moderate oven. AVhen they are half done, turn them over that they may bo equally cooked all through, and baste them once or twice with the liquor. Time to bake, one hour. Trout, Filleted. Clean and dry the trout, and raise the flesh from the bones by passing a sharp knife close to the spine. Divide the flesh into neat pieces convenient for serving, dip these into beaten egg, and afterwards roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain on blotting-paper before the fire for five or six minutes, and then serve on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with shrimps, prawns, parsley, or lemon, and send shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, tomato sauce, or tartar sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry, about eight or ten minutes. Trout, Fried. Empty, clean, and dry the fish thoroughly, cut off the fins and gills, but leave the heads on. Rub them over with flour, and fry them in plenty of hot fat. \'hen they are brown on one side, turn them carefully upon the other. Lift them out, and drain them on blotting-paper before the fire. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with parsley, and send plain melted butter or any other suitable sauce to table with them. If hked, the flour may be dusted ofB, and the trout may afterwards be dipped in beaten egg, covered with breadcrumbs, and fried as before. This is a favourite way of dressing trout. Time to fry, six to ten minutes, according to size. Sufiicient, three or four trout for a dish. Trout in Jelly. Wash the fish carefully, and form them into rings with their tails in their mouths. Boil water with a little vinegar, salt, a shallot, or clove of garlic, and any approved seasoning. Set it aside to cool, and when cold lay in the fish, and simmer for a few minutes after the water has just come to the boU. Lift the fish out carefully, drain them, and baste with clear fish jelly. When the fish basting has set lay on another, until the fish are nicely coated. Arrange and garnish to taste. Trout, Pickled. Take the remains of cold boiled or stewed trout. Remove the skin and bones, divide the flesh into neat pieces, put these into a deep dish, and strain over them I a pickle prepared as foUows : Mince three I moderate- sized onions, and put them into a I stewpan with a piece of butter the size of an I egg, a chopped turnip, a bunch of parsley, a I sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a dessert-spoonful i of salt, and a tea-spoonful of white pepper. j Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire for five minutes; pour over them a pint of vinegar I and a pint of boiling water. Let the liquor I boil for twenty minutes, and it will be ready for I use. Trout thus pickled will keep three or four I days, and the same ijickle may be used three or j four times if it is freshly boiled when required. Trout, Potted. Take six or eight moderate-sized fresh fish ; scrape them, empty them, cut ofl: the fins and heads, split them open, and remove the back -bone. Mix three tea-spoonfuls of salt with an equal quantity of white pepper and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, or half a grated nutmeg. Rub a portion of this seasoning into the insides of the fish, close them, and place them in layers head to tail in a deep baking-dish, put little pieces of butter between the layers and on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as they are done enough, drain ofl: the liquor in the pan, and lay the trout full-length in a potting-jar. When cold, cover them a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter which is just beginning to stiflien, and set them in a cool place till wanted. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Trout, Potted (another way) . St'e Grilse or Trout, To Pot. Trout, Potted (another way). Take sLx or eight fresh trout, cut off the heads, fins, and tails, empty them, split them open, and bone them. Lay them, backs uppermost, in a dish, and press them together. Tie the followingspices in muslin : Half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of ginger, three saltspoonfuls of salt, two bay-leaves, two cloves, three allspice, and a pinch of cayenne. Lay this TRO TRO bag upon the fish, with, half a pound or more of good butter broken into pieces. Cover the dish closely, and put it into a gentle oven. When the fish are done enough, lift out the bag of seasoning, and set the trout in a cool airy place till wanted. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Trout, Salmon. This, called also the sea trout, appears to form a connecting-link between the salmon and the common trout. It, like the salmon, frequents both the sea and rivers, ascending the latter to spawn. It is for the most part found in the rivers of mountainous countries, and is common in Wales and the lake district of England. It seldom exceeds a foot in length, and is a very delicious fish. Trout, Sauces for. Any of the following sauces may be served with boiled ti-out : Plain melted butter, anchovy sauce, shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, Dutch sauce, ravigote sauce, or a sauce prepared thus: Boil half a pint of melted butter with two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Mix the yolk of an egg with another table-spoonful of cream, and stir the thickening into the sauce, first letting it cool for one minute ; add the juice of a lemon and a pinch of salt, and stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boiling. Lift it off, and stii- into it an ounce of fresh butter until it is dissolved. Serve the sauce in a tureen or poured over the fish. Or bone and skin an anchovy, and pound the flesh in a mortar with a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped chives, or a minced shallot, a table-spoonful of capers, a dessert- spoonful of flour, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. When the mixture is quite smooth, stir it into a pint of the liquor in which the fish was boiled. Let it boil a minute or two, and send it to table in a tureen. Fried trout is veiy good served cold and accompanied by salad sauce. Trout, Soueh.et. Clean and empty five or six small trout, and dry them well. Cut four parsley roots into strips an inch long and very narrow, and boil these in a pint and a half of water, together with a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of finely-scraped horseradish. In five minutes throw in a handful of small sprigs of parsley. Let the water boil up again, put in the trout, let it boil, skim the liquor, and simmer the fish gently until done enough. Serve the fish in a deep dish with the water, parsley, &c., and send slices of thin brown bread and butter to table with it. Time to boil the fish, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, trout being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for five or six persons. Trout, Stewed. Take two moderatesized trout, empty, wash, and dry them well. Put them in a stewpan, and pour over them as much stock as will barely cover them, and a glassful of port or claret, then add a small onion finely minced, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, a pinch of powdered mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer very gently until the fish are done enough. Lift them out carefully, and put them on a hot dish. Strain the gravy. thicken it with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening or with a little flour and butter, stir it over the fire till it coats the spoon, pour it over the fish, and serve very hot. Time to stew the fish, haK an hour to three-quarters, according to size. Sufficient for two persons. Trout, stewed (another way). Empty, clean, and dry one large, or two moderate-sized, trout, and partially fry it in hot butter till it is lightly browned. Pour over it as much good stock as will barely cover it, and add a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a roll of thin lemon-rind, a finely-minced shallot, and a little pepjjer and salt. Let it simmer very gently until done enough. Place it on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, boil it till of the proper consistency, and strain it over the fish. A glassful of port or claret or a tea-sjioonful of lemon-juice may be added or not. Time to simmer the fish, half an hour to three-quarters, according to size. Sufiicient for two persons. Trout Stewed in Wine. Empty, clean, and drj' two or three fresh trout ; put them in a stewpan, pour over them equal parts of good gravy and either claret, port, or madeira, and add a moderate-sized onion, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, six allspice, two cloves, and a little salt. Let them simmer gently until done enough. Take them up carefully, strain the gravy, thicken it with brown thickening, and flavour with a teaspoonful of lemon- juice or chilh vinegar, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Strain the sauce over the fish, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, half an hour to three-quarters, according to the thickness of the fish. Sufficient for a small dish. Trout, Wayside Inn. Clean and empty the trout, dry them, and boil them until done enough. Lift them out carefully so as not to break them, put them upon a hot dish without a napkin, and cover them entirely with rich melted butter. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped gherkins over the sauce, and garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Time to simmer the fish, ten to twenty minutes, according to size. Trout, with Genoese Sauce. Empty, clean, and dry two moderate-sized fresh trout, and put them into a kettle of boiling water with a table-spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil the fish gently until they are done enough, then lift them up carefully, and pour over them some sauce prepared as follows : Thicken a pint of good stock with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and boil it till it is smooth and coats the spoon. Put with it a glassful of claret or port, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a dessei-tspoonful of chopped pai'sley, the cightk of a nutmeg grated, a small lump of sugar, and pepper and salt if required. Stir the sauce over the fire for five or six minutes, take it off, and stir into it a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut until it is dissolved. Pour the sauce over the trout, and serve immediately. TRU (997) TRU Time to boil, according to size. The fish is done enough when the eyes start. Sufficient for two persons. Probable cost, \mcertain, trout being seldom offered for sale. Truffle. The truffle is a kind of mushroom without roots, which is found at a considerable depth underground, principally in oak forests. As there is no appearance on the surface to indicate their presence underneath, pigs and dogs are employed to find them out, and when they begin to scratch the ground the men who are with them dig until they are found. There are three kinds black, red, and white, and the difference arises from the different degrees of ripeness to which the truffle has attained. The black being the ripest are the best. Truffles grow on the Continent much more abundantly than they do in England. Perigord, in the South of France, is TRUFFLES. quite celebrated for them. They are seldom eaten alone, but arc used for flavouring pies, ragouts, and sauces, for stuffing poultry, and for garnishing dishes. When good they have an agreeable aroma, and are light and elastic. They are best when fresh, and lose much of their flavour when preserved. They are almost extravagantly esteemed by epicures, and are very expensive. The passion for truffles is an acquired one; it requires an education to tmderstand them properly, but those who have acquired the taste regard the truffle as the best of edible substances. Yet irreverent novices make light of them, and compare them to turnips flavoured with tar, and young people seldom care for them. They are in season from October to January, though bottled truffles may be bought at the Italian warehouses at any time. Probable cost, fresh truffles, 6s. to 18s. per pound ; bottled truffles, 9s. to 12s. per pint bottle. Truffle Pur e. Wash, brush, and peel half a pound of fresh truffles. Chop them into small pieces, and pound them in a mortar. Put them into a stewpan with half a pint of good brown sauce, and let them boil for ten nmiutes. Just before serving the puree, dissolve an ounce of glaze and an ounce of butter in the puree, and, if obtainable, add to it two table-spoonfuls of essence of truffles. Time to boil, ten minutes. Truffle Sauce. Clean and peel four truffles, and cut them into squares of a quarter of an inch each way. Put them into a stewpan with half a pint of good brown sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Add a glassful of sherry, and, if liked, a table- spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, fresh truffles, from 6s. to 18s. a pound ; bottled truffles, 9s. to 12s. per pint bottle. Sufficient for four or five persons. Truffle Sauce (another way). Wash half a dozen truffles, and peel them, slice them, and lay them in a stewpan with one or two shallots or a little onion and parsley, a piece of butter, some salt, and a glassful of wine. Let the truffles stew closely covered tUl reduced and soft, then add enough gravy and water or broth, some flour thickening, and a little grated ginger. Boil the sauce again for ten minutes, and skim off the fat. Truffle Sauce (another way). Take half a poxmd of well-cleaned and peeled truffles. Put them into a stewpan with as much brown gravy as will cover them, and put with them a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a shallot, and an ounce of butter. Let them simmer very gently until tender, and when they are half done put a glassful of sherry into the sauce. Take them out, drain them, and cut them into thin slices. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a little brown thickening, heat the slices in the sauce, and serve very hot. Time to boil the truffles, about one hour. Truffled Butter {see Butter, Truffled). Truffles (a la Serviette) . Wash the truffles I in several waters, brush them thoroughly to free I them from c rth and grit, and drain them. Line j a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the truffles, cover with rich veal gravy, and ! add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, two bay-leaves, five or six cloves, a bunch of small onions, and three or four sticks of celery, with a glassful of wine or not. Simmer the truffles gently until done enough, and let them get cold in the liquor. When wanted for table heat j them again, drain them well, and dish them in I a folded napkin. Truffles u la Serviette are i usually sent to table with a little cold butter on a separate dish, and without sauce. Time to simmer the truffles, about an hour. Truffles (a la' Serviette another way). "VA'ash the truffles in several waters, and brush them thoroughly. Wrap them separately in buttered paper, and bake them in a hot oven, or toast them before the fire in a Dutch oven, turning them frequently that they may be equally cooked. Remove the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them on a neatly-folded white table-napkin. Time to bake, one hour. Truffles (a I'ltalicnne). Cleanse well, dry, and pare ten truffles, and cut them into thin slices. Put them into a small frying-pan with an ounce of fresh butter, a minced shallot, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little TRTJ ( 998 ) TRTJ pepper and salt. Stir over a gentle fire till they are done enough, -which will be in about ten minutes, then poui- off part of the butter, and add an ounce of fresh butter, two tablespoonfuls of thick brown gra-\y, with a little cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. Stk the mixtm-e over the fire until it is on the point of boiling, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about twenty minutes. Truffles (a. I'ltaUeune another way). Cleanse thoroughly, dry, and pare eight truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put them into a baking-dish with a quarter of a pint of Lucca oil, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, another of powdered mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them bake gently nearly an hour, squeeze the strained juice of haK a lemon over them, and serve very hot. If liked, a clove of garHc may be m inced and put with them. Time to bake, one hour. Truffles aux Champagne. On the subject of truffles prepared in this way, the late Alexandre Dumas' " Dictionnaire Gastronomique " waxes enthusiastic. "What," he says, " can be more exhilarating, more divine, than truffles aux Champagne ? Take a poimd of truffles, pour a bottle of Ai mousseux into a saucepan ; throw in the truffles, together with a little salt, and let them boil in the wine for half an hour ; then serve them hot on a snowwhite napkin. Who could resist the power of this composition, which charms the palate and tickles the fancy ? How its enchanting aroma caresses, flatters, and rejoices ! " Truffles, Bottled. Soak the truffles for an hour- or two in fresh water, wash them well in several waters, brush them until they are quite clean, and pare them. Put them into wide-mouthed and perfectly dry bottles, and put in each bottle a sprig of thyme, a large pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of cold water. Cork the bottles closely, and tie them down securely. Wrap a wisp of hay round them to keep them from cracking, put them side by side in a large stewpan, and pour in sufficient cold water to reach up to their necks. Bring the liquor to the boil, then di-aw the saucepan to the side, and keep it simmering gently for half an hour. Let the bottles remain imtouchcd till they are cold, wax the corks, and store the truffles in a cool place. As Enghsh truffles are much cheaper than French ones, it is good economy to bottle them when they are in season for futiu-e use. Care should be taken to smell. them before bottling, and to reject any that are in the least musty. They are best in December and January. Time to boil the truffles, half an hour. Truffles, Buisson of. Choose as many Jarge round truffles as may be required, cleanse them thoroughly, stew them as for Truffles a la Serviette, and let them cool in the liquor. Take a stale quartern loaf, cut off the crust, and carve the crumb to an oval shape. Place this upon a white napkin on a dish, cover with parsley, and stick about a dozen of the truffles all round it with silver skewers. PUc the rest on the top, and serve. Time to stew the truffles, nearly an hoxir. Truffles, Capon Roasted with, {see I Capon roasted with Truffles). j Truffles for Garnish. Truffles which ; are to be used for garnishing various dishes j may either be cleaned, pared, and boiled whole, I then left to cool in their liquor, or they may I be cut up into slices before being boiled. It I should be remembered that the liquor in which they are boiled will be excellent for sauce, and that if well cleaned the parings may be stewed to flavour- sauces. Many cooks boil the truffles ' whole, and afterwards cut them up into different shapes before using them for garnishing. I Time to boil moderate-sized truffles for garnish, I about a quarter of an hour. ] Truffles for Garnish (another way). I Sec Garnish, Truffles for. I Truffles, French. In Piedmont, white I truffles are met with. The best truffles of j France come from Perigord and Upper Proj vence. About the month of January they have ; their highest perfume. Those from Bugey ! have also a high flavour, but cannot be preserved. i Those of Burgundy and Dauphiny are of inj ferior quality. They are hard and deficient in I farinaceous matter. ! Truffles, Ortolans Stewed with (se I Ortolans Stewed with Truffles). I Truffles, Partridges Braised with I {see Partridges Braised with Truffles). I Truffles, Potted. Wash, brush, peel, and slice six ounces of fresh truffles. Dissolve ] a pound of fresh butter ; skim it carefully, pour I it into a basia, and let it stand two or three 1 minutes, then pour the pure oiled part away from the thick milky substance which wiQ have settled at the bottom. Put the sliced truffles into a delicately-clean stewpan, and pour the butter gently over them. Let it stand until it is set, then put the saucepan on a slow fire, and stew the truffles very gently until they are tender. Lift them into dry preserving jars, cover them with the butter, and store them in a cool and perfectly dry place. They wiU keep for months, and will be a most acceptable addition to the breakfast or luncheon table. The butter which remains after the truffles are thoroughly covered, so as to exclude the air, may be potted separately, and may be used for flavouring sauces and various delicate preparations. Time to stew the truffles, twenty minutes, or more. Truffles, Preserved. Keep them in well-corked bottles in salad-oil. Truffles, Shoulder of Lamb with {see Lamb, Shoulder of, with Truffles). Truffles Stewed in Champagne. Take ten or twelve large truffles, soak them for a couple of hours, rinse them in several waters, and scrub them thoroughly. Lay a thin slice of fat bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, put in the truffles, and add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little grated nutmeg, and, if liked, a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of green onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTiie, a bay-leaf, two or TRU ( 999 ) TUR three cloves, and a blade of mace. Half cover the truffles with good veal stock, let them simmer half an hour, then add a bottle of dry champagne, and simmer for another half hour, keeping them very closely covered. They may cither be drained, dried, and served cold in a silver dish, or on a dish covered with a napkin, with the sauce served cold in a tureen, or they may be heated and served hot, with the liquor, strained and considerably reduced, poured over them. Time to stew the truffles, one hour. Truffles, Stuffing of, for Sucking Pig (see Pig, Sucking, Stuffing of Truffles for). Truffles, Timbale of. Line a plain round mould -svdth good puff paste. Take six or eight large fresh truffles ; wash and brush them thoroughly, and cut them into thin slices. Put them into a small frjTing-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, shake them over a brisk fire, and be careful not to break them. Drain them, and put them into the mould, place the cover on the top, make a hole in the centre for the steam to escape, and bake in a hot oven. When the pastry is done enough, make up the hole, and turn the timbale on a dish. Make an opening in the top, and pour in a small quantity of good gravy, then lay a slice of truffle in the opening, and serve. Time to fry the sliced truffle, five or six minutes. Truffles, To Prepare for Use. Soak the truffles for one or two hours in cold water, or if necessary in lukewarm water, to loosen the earth from them. Rinse them well several times, and brush them carefully, until they are delicately clean. Dry them in a soft cloth, and pare them very thinly. The parings of truffles should be used for flavouring purposes. Truffles, with Eggs. Take a large truffle, clean and pare it, cut it into small pieces, and simmer it in a little butter over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Drain it, and put it into a clean stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, half a dozen fresh eggs, two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir this mixture with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken, then draw it to the side, and beat it until the eggs set without being at all hard. Put the preparation on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets. Time, altogether, ten or fifteen minutes. Tschi, or Russian Soup. Take a pound of nicely-flavoured sausage meat. Make it into smaU balls, and fry these until they are slightly browned all over. Drain them from the fat, put them into a soup tureen, and pour over them three pints of boiling soup prepared as follows : Mince two large onions finely, and mix them with a small cabbage finely sliced. Put the whole into a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter the size of a large egg, and turn the vegetables about over a gentle fire until they are nicely browned. Sprinkle over them two ounces of flour, and moisten the whole with three pints of nicely-flavoured stock. Stir the soup over the fire until it boils, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and let it simmer gently for half an hour, skimming carefully the whole of the time. Just before serving, put into it a table-spoonful of finely-minced lean ham, a glassful of light wine, and throe or four tarragon-leaves finely shred. Serve very hot. Sufficient for five or six persons. Time, half an hour to simmer the soup after it has boiled. Tunbridge Cakes. Eub two ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a pinch of salt, four ounces of powdered white sugar, two ounces of carawayseeds, and as much water as will be required to make a stiff paste. RoU this out very thin, stamp it into small rounds, prick the surface lightly with a fork, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Tunbridge Puddings. Boil a pint of new milk, and as it rises in the pan stir into it gradually as much flour as will make a thick batter. Beat it until quite smooth, pour it out, and when cold add three well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of sugar, and two or three drops of almond ratafia or any other flavoiu'ing. Throw the batter in sj oonf uls on a large floured plate, dredge the surface well with flour, and drop the puddings into hot lard or clarified fat. Fry them till they are lightly and equally browned, and serve on a hot dish with white sugar sifted thickly over them. Time to fry, until brown. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six uersous. TU ? -r Fisn. Tunny. Tunny is a kind of fish slightly resembhng the mackerel: it is caught in the IMediterranean, and sent to other parts preserved in oil. The flesh is delicate and highly esteemed, somewhat resembling veal. To serve it, cut it in thin slices, and arrange these in rows overlapping each other. Put little heaps of chopped parsley and capers round the dish, pour a little fresh salad oil over the fish, and serve. Turbot. The turbot is the most highly esteemed of all flat fish. Its flesh is -w hite, TUB ( 1000 ) TUB rich, and gelatinous. It is an expensive fish, and sold by size instead of weight. It will keep for a day or even two if lightly salted. The thick part of the fins and the gelatinous , skin are the parts of the fish most relished by I epicures. The thick slices from the middle j of the back are the best parts. In preparing a turbot for dressing great care is necessary. First empty the fish, and cleanse the inside. Eub a little salt over the outside, as this will ' help to remove the slime, then wash the turbot in several waters. Dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with a cut lemon to make it white. On no account cut off the fins. Make an incision down the thickest part of the middle of the back, that is the dark side of the fish, in order to keep the skin on the white side from cracking. Any unsightly red spots on the under side may be removed by rubbing them with salt and lemon- juice. A turbot is usually served the white side uppermost. Some cooks have an idea that the best slices are to be found on the dark side, and therefore serve it back upwards. When this is done the fish is usually garnished. Turbot is at the best from April to September. Moderate-sized fish are the best. Turbot (a la Bechamel). This is a favourite method of dressing the remains of boiled turbot. Remove the flesh from the bones while it is still warm if possible, divide it into convenient-sized pieces, and take away all the skin. Put a pint of milk or cream, or equal parts of either milk and white stock or milk ind cream, into a stewpan with a strip of thin lemon-rind, a finely-minced shallot, six peppercorns, and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Let it boil for ten minutes, then strain and thicken it with a large table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cream or butter. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for five minutes, put in the slices of fish, and when they are quite hot turn the whole preparation upon a hot dish. A few oysters may be added to the sauce if liked, and if milk only is used, the sauce may be made richer by adding the yolks of two eggs mixed with a little cream. If this is done, care must be taken not to let the sauce boil after the eggs are added. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and parsley, or with potato croquettes or toasted sippets. Time, three or four minutes to heat the fish in the sauce. Suflicient, a pound of cold turbot and the third of a pint of sauce for two persons. Turbot (a la Creme). Take the flesh from the remains of a boiled turbot, free it from bones and skin, and divide it into neat pieces, season with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, pour on it the grated juice of a lemon, and let it lie for an hour. Siumier half a pint of new milk with a strip of lemon-rind and a bay-leaf till it is pleasantly flavoirred. Strain it over the fish, and let it heat gently. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour and half a pint of thick cream. Stir this carefully into the sauce, let it get quite hot, but on no account allow it to boil. Serve immediately. Time, a few minutes to heat the fish in the sauce. Suflicient, a pound of fish for one or two persons. Turbot (a la Creme Gratine). ]\Iake the fish hot in some good cream sauce, according to the last recipe. Arrange it neatly in a dish in layers, first a little fish, then a little sauce, and let sauce be the uppermost layer. Strew seasoned crumbs and grated pamiesan lightly over the whole, pour over this two or three table-spoonfuls of very thick cream, and put the dish into the oven to get quite hot. Brown the surface with a salamander or red-hot fire shovel, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, half an hour or more. TURBOT, CARVING OF. Turbot (a la Creme d'Anchois). Boil a moderate-sized turbot in the usual way, and place it carefully on a hot dish without a najakin. Flavour a pint of rich melted butter with one or two tea-s230onfuls of the essence of anchovies, and add the eighth of a pint of thick cream. Mix the saiice over the fire, and when it is nearlj" boiling pour it over the fish. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped capers or gherkins upon the surface, garnish the dish with a border of new potatoes, and serve very hot. Time, a few minutes to heat the sauce. Sufficient, this quantity of sauce for a moderatesized fish. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Choose a very white and fine-skinned turbot threequarters of an hour before dinner, or an hour if the turbot is very large, put it into boiling water and salt with lemon slices over it ; start it very quick ; when it begins to boil, draw the pan on the side of the fire. If the turbot boUs too fast, it will be woolly. When you have ascertained with your knife that it is quite done, serve with green parsley on the broken places, and put round the djsh some horseradish scraped fine ; serve the lobster sauce separately in a boat. Make an aperture in the back of the tm-bot, and it wiU be the sooner done. Z de. Turbot, Baked. Empty, wash, and dry a moderate-sized turbot. Rub the inside of the dish in which it is to be baked with butter, and sprinkle upon it a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and finely-chopped parsley. Place the turbot upon this, and sprinkle a little more seasoning on the upper part of the fish. Put two or three ounces of butter broken in little pieces here and there upon it, dredge it well with flour, and add two glassfuls of light wine, and, if it is at hand, one or two table-spoonfuls of oyster-broth or mushroom -juice. Bake the TUB, ( 1001 ) TUR fish in a moderate oven, and when it is done enough lift it carefully upon the dish on which it is to be served, keep it hot, and prepare the sauce as follows: Pour the liquor from the baking-dish into a saucepan, thicken with a little liour and butter, stir over the fire for a minute or two, and then serve in a tureen. The sauce may be varied by the addition of a little essence of anchovy, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon- juice ; or a little white sauce may be added, or a dozen mushrooms, or a dozen scalded and bearded oysters. Garnish the turbot with scraped horseradish and sliced lemon or fried bread or green parsley. Time to bake the turbot, twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, a moderate-sized turbot for five or six persons. TURBOT iiETTLK. Turbot, Boiled. Empty the fish, wash it inside with scrupulous nicety, then remove the scales and gills, and trim the fins, but do not cut them off, as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a great dehcacy. Eub a little salt aU over the outside of the fish this ?will make the slime come off more easily, and do away with the necessity for soaking the fish. Wash it until it is as clean as possible. Dry it, and rub it with a cut lemon or a little \'inegar. Draw a sharp knife just through the skin in the thickest part of the middle of the back on the dark side of the fish. This is to keep the skin from cracking on the white side. Put as much cold water as will be required to cover the fish into a turbot-kettle, and dissolve in this a little salt in the proportion of six ounces of salt to a gallon of water. Lay the turbot on the fish-drainer, the white side up, and put it into the water. Bring it to the boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. When the water boils draw the kettle to the side, and simmer the fish very gently until it is done enough. As soon as this point is reached, take it up, drain the water from it, and slip it, the white side up, upon a hot dish covered with a napkin or fishpaper. Garnish with parsley, cut lemon, and scraped horseradish, and if it should happen imfortunately that the fish is at aU cracked, lay two or three httle pieces of parsley upon it, so as to cover the crack. Plain melted butter, shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, Dutch sauce, and lobster sauce may all be served with boiled turbot. When lobster sauce is used, a little of the spawn may be rubbed through a sieve and sprinkled over the fish. Some cooks have an idea that the best parts of the fish lie in the back, therefore they dish the turbot with the dark side uppennost. However this may be, the turbot looks best with the white side on the top. It is impossible to give the exact time for boiling, as turbot varies much in thickness as well as in size. When the flesh appears to 68 shrink from the bone it is done, and it should be carefully watched, as if it boils too long it win be broken and spoilt. Time, a moderatesized tm-bot, fifteen to twenty minutes to simmer gently from the time the water boils ; large, twenty to thu-ty-five minutes. Probable cost, uncertaiu. Turbot, Broiled. Clean a small turbot, and dry it weU. Lay it on a dish, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on it, and pour over it four table-spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar or lemon-juice. When it is to be dressed place it in a double gxidiron, and broil it over a slow clear fire. Turn it every five or six minutes, and on each occasion brush it over with the marinade in the dish. When it is done enough that is, when the flesh wiU leave the bone easily put it upon a hot dish, and pour over it some good white sauce, or oyster sauce, or mussel sauce. Garnish with parsley and prawns. Time to broil, about half an hour. Turbot, Broiled (another way). Marinade the turbot in sweet oil, salt, pepper, &c., and broil it on a slow fire : it cannot be sufficiently done in this way in less than an hour. AVhen you serve, cover with caper sauce, which is to be made as follows : Make some melted butter with a little glaze in it ; when melted, throw in some essence of anchovies, a few capers, and a drop of vinegar. Then give a good seasoning, and pom- the sauce over the fish. Turbot, Broiled, with Caper Sauce. Take a small fish emptied and washed, make an incision in the back down to the bone ; then wipe it quite dry ; next lay it in a dish to steep in salt, pepper, and sweet oil ; put in very little oil, as it requires only sufficient to prevent it from drying. Half an hour, or even threequarters of an hour, before dinner-time, broil the fish over a slow fire on both sides, and serve up with caper sauce. Turbot, Carving of . Run the fish-knife down from a to b, qiiite through the bone {see Fig. p. 1000); then cut slices in the direction of the dotted lines c e and c d. Turbot, Choosing of. A middie-sized fish is the best. Turbot ought to be thick and of a cream-coloured white. If of a bluish tint and thin it is not good. The flesh ought to feel springy under pressure from the finger. Sometimes turbot is shghtly disfigured by having two or three red spots on the under side, and may be bought at a cheaper rate in consequence. These spots often disappear when they are rubbed with salt and lemon. Tnrbot is at its best from April to September. Turbot, Cold, To Serve a Second Time. Turbot is so delicious and so expensive that none of it should be wasted. The cold remains may be served in various ways, the different recipes for which are here given. They may be warmed in white sauce (see Turbot a. If Bechamel and a la Creme), served with breadcrumbs {see Turbot a la Creme Gratine) ; they may be made into salad [see Turbot Salad), or curried, or pickled, or scalloped, or made into croquettes, or into a turbot pie, or into patties or vol-au-vents, or cut into neat pieces, and TUB ( 1002 ) TUR served cold with shrimp chutney. The following is a simple and excellent recipe for dressing cold turbot a second time : Remove tho skin and the hones, and ? divide the flesh into neat pieces convenient for serving. Warm any cold sauce that may be left, and stir in with it a fourth of its quantity in milk or cream, and add a few drops of anchovy essence and a Httle pepper and salt. Put the pieces of fish into the sauce, and let them heat through, but do not let them boil. Serve the fish very hot. Tune, three or four minutes to heat the fish. Turbot, Cold, with Shrimp Chutney. Lift the flesh from the hones, free it from skin, and divide it into neat pieces. Lay it on a dish, garnish with green parsley, and send the following preparation to table with it : Shell a pint of fresh shrimps, mince them finely, pound them to a smooth paste, and season with cayenne and a little salt if required. Mix with them lucca oil and best vinegar, enough to make a smooth paste. The proper proportions are one spoonful of vinegar to two of oil, but in regard to this indi\-idual taste must be consulted. The chutney when finished should be of the consistency of thick boiled custard. A little finely-minced shallot may be added or not. Turbot, Cooking of. With a celebrated gastronomic philosopher, the turbot is the king of fish, especially in Lent, as it is then of most majestic size. You may serve up salmon with as much ornament as you will, but a turbot asks for nothing but aristocratic simplicity. On the day after he makes his fii-st appearance, it is quite another aft'air. It may be then disguised ; and the best manner of efEecting this is to dress him a la Bechamel, a preparation thus called from the Marquis de Bechamel, who, in the reign of Louis XIV. for ever immortalised himself by this one ragout. Turbot Croquettes. Take the remains of cold turbot : free the fiesh from skin and bone, mince finely, season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and add an equal weight of bread-crumbs moistened with very thick white sauce or, faiUng this, hot mUk a little chopped parsley, and enough butter to form a smooth paste. Form the mixture into small balls or cones. Dip these fii'st into beaten egg, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Drain them from the fat, and serve neatly arranged on a napkin. Garnish the dish with parsley, and send good fish sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the croquettes, five or six minutes. Turbot, Curried. Peel and mince finely a large onion, and fry it in butter till it is quite tender. Rub it through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a tea-spoonful of gi-ound rice, a table-spoonful of curry-paste or powder, the strained juice of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of good stock, and simmer the sauce very gently for ten or twelve minutes. Add a little salt if necessary, and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. ' Put in about a pound of cold-dressed turbot, already freed from skin and bone, and divided into pieces an inch square. Let the fish get quite hot, and serve the curry on a hot dish, with a waU of boiled rice round it. Time, altogether, half an hour. Turbot Fillets. A small turbot may be used for this purpose, or if a turbot is larger than is required for immediate use, it may be cut in halves, one half may be filleted, and the other half dressed in a different way. Clean and dry the fish, and raise the fiesh from the bones with a sharp knife. Take off the dark skin, but leave the white skin untouched. Di\dde the meat into neat pieces the size and shape of small cutlets, and either fry, stew, or bake them. To fry them, dip them into beaten egg and bread-crumbs, fr-y in hot fat tiU they are lightly browTied, drain them, serve neatly arranged like cutlets on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley. To bake them, put a pound of the filleted meat, arranged in a single layer, into a bakingdish with two ounces of sweet butter, a little pepper and salt, and the strained juice of a lemon. Put them in a brisk oven, baste weU with the liquor, and bake until done enough. Dish them as Ibefore. To stew them, remove aU the skin from the fish, dredge the fillets with some flour, and fry them tiU they are lightly browned. Put them into the stewpan, and pour over them as much nicely-seasoned stock as will cover them. Let them stew gently imtil done enough. Lift them out o? the sauce with a fish-slice, lay them on a hot dish, and keep them warm. Skim the gravy, thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, add a spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a glassful of light wine, let it boil up, and strain it over the fish. Serve very hot. Time to fry the fillets, five or six minutes; to bake them, about twenty minutes ; to stew them, ten to fifteen minutes. Turbot, Fillets of (au Gratin). Take the remains of dressed fish. Free it from skin and bone, and divide it into small neat fillets. Mince three or four button mushrooms finely, mix with them a table -spoonful of chopped parsley and half a shallot finely minced. Season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a gentle fire till they are soft. Spread them at the bottom of a small thickly -buttered silver or, faihng this, tin baking-dish, lay the pieces of fish upon them, and cover with a thick layer of finely -grated breadcrumbs. Stick little pieces of butter here and there on the top, moisten the fish with a little light wine, and bake in a brisk oven. If necessary, brown the surface by holding a redhot shovel over it, or putting it before the fire for a minute or two, and just before sending the dish to table squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Turbot, Patties or Vol-au-vents of. Line some patty-pans with good puft'-paste, or make some small vol-au-vents according to the directions already given {see Puff-Paste, Vol-au-vents of). Bake them, and while stiU hot fiU them with the following preparation: Take the white meat of the turlwt freed from skin and bone, mince it finely, ancj Tim ( 1003 ) TUB season with pepper and salt. Put into a stewpan two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, the quantity to be regulated by that of the fish. Thicken the cream by boiling- it with a shoe of butter rolled in flour, and when it is quite hot put the minced fish into it that it may heat also. It should bo remembered that the seasoned mince should be of a good consistency, or it will soak through the pastry. FiU the hot patties or the hot vol-au- vents with the hot mince, and serve on a ncatly-foldod napkin. Time, a few minutes to prepare the mince. Turbot, Pickled. Take the remains of a dressed turbot ; lift the flesh from the bones in large pieces, and put these in a deep dish. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a pint of water, and add an onion stuck with two cloves, a small turnip and carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bayleaf. Simmer these gently for half an hour, then add a glassful of sherry, or, if preferred, a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Let the liquor cool, and strain it over tlie fish. Serve quite cold. Time to boil the pickle, half an hoitr. Turbot Pie. Take the remains of cold turbot, free the white flesh from skin and bone, tear it into flakes, and season with pepper, salt, and a small portion of powdered mace. Spread it at the bottom of a thickly-buttered baking-dish, and pour over it any sauce that was left with it, either melted butter, white sauce, oyster sauce, or any other kind. If there is no cold sauce, put two or thi'ee ounces of clarified butter over the fish. IMash some potatoes with hot milk and a httle butter, and spread a layer of these fuUy an inch and a half deep over the fish. Rough the top with a fork, and heat the pie in a brisk oven. If it is not nicely browned on the top, put it in front of a clear fire for a few minutes before sending it to table, or hold a salamander or a red-hot fire-shovel over it. Serve very hot. Time to bake the pie, about half an hour. Turbot, Roe of. Handle the roe as lightly as possible. Blanch and cut it into slices. Put it into a buttered dish, bake it until done enough, and keep it well basted during the process. Put it on a hot dish, and pour over it as much nicely-flavoured white sauce as wiU cover it. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon, and serve very hot. Time to bake the roe, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Suificient for a small dish. Turbot Salad. The remains of dressed tm-bot wiU make a most delicious salad. Lift the flesh from the bones, free it from skiu and bone, and divide it into pieces an inch and a half square. Season these slightlj' with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, cover the dish on which they are, and leave them in a cool place till wanted. Wash two large fresh lettuces or any suitable salad. Dry them perfectly by putting them in small quantities at a time into a clean cloth, then taking this up loosely by the four corners and shaking the moisture from the leaves. Cut them into neat pieces half an inch broad, and leave them in an airy place tUl wanted. Beat the raw yolks of two fresh eggs for two or three minutes, and mix with them a spoonful of mixed mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little white pepper. Add first by di'ops and afterwards by tea- spoonfuls four table-spoonfuls of lucca oil, and beat the sauce well for a miaute between every addition. Afterwards stir in gradually a tea-spoonful of good French vinegar and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Add more oU and vinegar in the same proportions until the sauce is of the consistency of thick boiled custard. Leave it in a cool i lace tiU wanted. Arrange the salad just before it is to be sent to table. Fh-st put a layer of lettuce lightly at the bottom of the dish. Put some turbot upon it, and repeat until the materials are used. Garnish the dish in any way that may be preferred with hardboiled eggs, sliced cucumber, beetroot, olives, fiUeted anchovies, &c. Pour the sauce over at the last moment, and in arranging the salad pour a small quantity of sauce over each layer of fish. Time, half an hour to prepare the sauce. It is better for being made an hour or two before it is wanted. Turbot, Sauce for. Turbot may be served with plain melted butter, lobster sauce, Dutch sauce, parsley sauce, white sauce, shrimp sauce, muscle sauce, or Italian sauce. It is A-ery good eaten cold with sliced cucumber and salad sauce. The great French cook Careme never sent any other sauce than melted butter to table with tuibot. Turbot, Scalloped. Take the remains of cold tm-bot, hft the flesh from the bones, and remove the skin. Weigh the white meat, and for each pound allow six ounces of grated bread-crumbs seasoned with salt, cayenne, and gi-ated nutmeg. Cut the fish into small pieces, season with salt and pepper, and mix with it either a table-spoonfiil of cold sauce or two oimces of clarified butter. Butter some scaUop-sheUs rather thickly. Place a layer of seasoned crumbs at the bottom of each, then lay in the fish, and sprinkle more crumbs thickly on the top. Lay little pieces of butter here and there on the surface, and put the shells in a bi-isk oven. When they are quite hot lift them out, and serve the fish in the shells neatlj' arranged on a folded napkin. If scallop-shells are not at hand, a small bakingdish may be used instead. If preferred, the same quantity of mashed potatoes may be used instead of the bread-crumbs. Time to bake the fish in the sheUs, a quarter of an hour. Turbot, Stewed. Take a small turbot, clean it perfectly, dry it well, and cut it into thin slices. Malce a sauce of thin melted butter boiled up with a little salt and cayenne, a filleted anchovy, a dessert -spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of walnut pickle, and a glassful of claret. Fry the slices of fish in hot fat tiU they are lightly browned. Drain them, and put them into the sauce. Let them simmer gently for five minutes. Take them up carefully vith a fish-slice so as not to break them, lay them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve immediately. Garnish with sliced lemon. Time to fry 'the fish, five minutes; to simmer it in the sauce, five minutes. TUB ( 1004 ) TTTR Turbot, Timbales of (a la Venitienne). This is a dish made of the remains of turbot. It requires but little of the flesh of the tish. Cut whatever is left of the turbot into dice as small as possible. To make the sauce, take three spoonfuls of hot bechamel, to which add a good lump of butter, salt, fine white pepper, a little parsley chopped very fine and well squeezed in a towel that it may not give a green colour to the sauce ; then add a little cavice. Keep stirring your sauce, which is generally called working it. The French term is ranner taking up the sauce in a spoon, and pouring it perpendicularly into the stewpan, repeating the operation frequently and verj' quick to make the sauce transparent. When it is mellow, and of a good taste, throw in the turbot which you have cut into dice, keep it hot, and when ready for sending to table garnish the little timbales with the tiu'bot. Let them lay for a moment in the oven, and serve hot. Turesicus. Take part of a cold boiled leg of mutton, mince it very fine, mix it with rice, season very lightly with black pepper, add salt, and make it into balls the size of a cabbage-leaf. Tie each ball separately in a cabbage -leaf, boU it about half an hour, and serve at once very hot. Turin Cakes. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, and pound them to a paste with the white of an egg. Beat the yolks of five fresh eggs, and work in with them gradually the almond paste and eight ounces of powdered white sugar. When these ingredients are well beaten, add an ounce of potato-flour, two ounces of fine flour, and the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Pour the preparation into buttered and sugared tartlettins, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour, according to size. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this quantity. Turkey. The turkey is highly esteemed and usually commands a high price, especially at Christmas, when most extravagant prices are often demanded and obtained for large, well-fed birds. Turkeys are in season from September to Jlarch, and are at their best in December and January. If the weather is suitable, they should be hung fully a week before being dressed. In very cold weather, care must be taken that they are not frozen in hanging, and if this is the case, they should be brought into a warm place for some hours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. The hen bird is considered the best. Brillat Savarin says : " The turkey is the largest, and if not the most delicate, at least the most savourj', of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advantage of assembling round it every class of society. When our farmers and winegrowers regale themselves on a winter's evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, close to which the white-clothed table is set ? A turkey. AVhen the useful tradesman, or the hard-worked artist, invites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he expected to set before them P A nice roast turkey stuffed with sausage meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second course 'i A truflied tui-key. In my ' Secret Memoirs,' I find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its restorative juice has illumined diplomatic faces of the highest emi+ nence." Tiirkey, Blanquettes of. Cut the meat from the remains of a dressed turkey into neat slices, cover these with a cloth, and set them in a cool place till wanted. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan \fith. twck ounces of lean ham or a piece of bacon-rind, a small onion finely-minced, a blade of mace, and as much cold stock or water as will cover them. Let all sinmier gently together for half an hour or more. Strain the liquor, and put it back into the saucepan with half a gill of thick cream, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes, jjut in the slices of turkey, let them heat for two or three minutes, then add gi-adually the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and be careful to mix a little of the sauce with the egg in a basin before putting it to the rest. Stir gently for a few minutes till the sauce is set, but on noaccount allow it to boil after the egg is added. Serve the preparation on a hot dish with toasted sippets round it. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold turkey, 9d. Sufficient, with a pound of meat,, for two or thi-ee persons. Turkey, Boiled. There is an old i3rovcrb which says that turkey boiled is turkey spoiled, but in this couplet there is more rhyme than reason, as a boiled turkey forms a dainty dish most acceptable to persons vdth delicate stomachs, who fear the richness cf the roasted bird, and also presents an agreeable change to those who during the Christmas festivities are tired of having roasted turkey constantly set before them. A boUed turkey is prepared aa foUows : Take a plump hen turkey which has hung for five or six days (weather permitting), pluck, singe, and draw it, fill it with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with chestnuts, truss it for boiling, and remember to draw the legs into the body, and bind it securely with tape. Dredge flour over it, put it into an oval pan with warm water just sufficient to cover it, and put with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a dozen j eppercorns, a few sticks of celery, and a bimch ofi parsley. Bring it slowly to the boil, skim the liquor carefully, and let it simmer very gently imtil the turkey is tender. Take it up, drain it for a moment, serve on a hot dish, pour a little melted butter or white sauce over it, as all the company may not prefer oyster sauce, and send parsley and butter, celery sauce, oyster sauce, chestnut sauce, Dutch sauce, or even good melted butter flavoured with horseradish, to table with it. Fried bacon, boiled tongue, and fried sausages, boiled pig's cheek, and ham, are all suitable accompaniments to boiled turkey, and the dish containing it may be garnished with bacon and sliced tongue, or with sliced lemon and parsley, forcemeat balls, TTTR ( lOOo ) TTJR or barberries. IMany cooks wrap the turkey in a floured cloth before jjutting it in to boil, but this spoils the stock, and will be rendered unnecessary if the scum is carefully removed as it rises. Time to simmer gently a turkey weighing ten pounds, two hours from the time the water reaches the boiling point; fifteen pounds, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 6s. to 12s., excepting at Christmas. Turkey, Boiled, and Stuffed with Tongue. Take a small boiled pickled tongue. Cut ott' the root entirely, leaving only a small portion of the fat. Pluck, draw, singe, and bone a turkey, and cut off the legs, but not the wings. Nearly fill the breast with good veal forcemeat, push the tongue into the centre of the stuffing, and sew the skin over the back securely. Truss the bird firmly, and restore it as nearly as possible to its original shape. Cover the breast with thin shoes of fat bacon, tie the bird in a clean white cloth, and boil it according to the directions given in the last recipe, being careful to simmer it very gently, for fear the skin should break. Serve it hot or cold with white or celery sauce, and in carving cut slices across the breast, so that turkey, tongue, and forcemeat may be served together. If this dish is intended for supper, let the turkey stand in a cool place for an hour or two, then pour over it some good white sauce lukewarm, ornament with cut lemon, truffle, &c., and garnish the dish with aspic jelly, lemon, and parsley. Turkey, Boning of. Boning poultry is a difficult business for the inexperienced, and generally speaking is best left to the poulterer. Written instructions for its accomplishment are almost valueless, and the knowledge gained from them is worth very little compared to that which may be derived from once watching an experienced cook perform the operation. Turkeys are usually boned without the skin being cut up the back. To do this the joints are loosened inside the bird, the flesh raised with a short sharp-pointed knife, and the bones drawn out gradually, the flesh being laid back, until the body is turned inside out, when the boning may be easily finished. When a turkey has been boned, the legs and wings are generally drawn into the body of the bird, and care must be taken to simmer and then to cool the bird very gently, for fear the skin should burst. Turkey, Braised. An old turkey is never so good as a young one. When, however, a young one cannot be obtained, the old one will be more likely to give satisfaction if it is braised than if it is roasted. Pluck and singe the bird, cut off the neck and legs, empty it, and save the heart, liver, and gizzard. Cut the nock into three pieces, clean and scald the legs and the gizzard, and peel off the outer scaly skin from the legs and the thick inner skin from the gizzard. Cover the bird with thin slices of unsmoked fat bacon, and tie it round with twine to keep it in shape. Put three or four slices of bacon into a braising-pan, lay the turkey on these, and put in with it the giblets and trimmings of the turkey, and a calf's foot cut in two, or two sheep's trotters, together with four onions stuck vith three cloves, three carrots, a parsnip, two bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a little salt and pepper, and half a clove of garlic, if liked. Some cooks add one or two glassfuls of wine and a glassful of brandy, but these are unnecessary. Lay two or three slices of bacon over the turkey, and almost cover it with good stock. Put the lid on the stewpan, and simmer its contents very gently from four to six hours, according to the size of the bird. If an ordinary stewpan is used instead of a proper braising-pan, which vnW. hold embers in the lid, turn the turkey over when it is half done. Braised turkey may be served either hot or cold. If it is to be eaten hot, lay it upon the dish, surround it with the best of vegetables stewed in it, or with a chipolata garnish prejjared separately, and jjour over it a small portion of the gravy freed from fat, and thickened with brown thickening. If it is to be served cold, let it remain in the gravjin which it was stewed for half an hour after taking it from the fire. Strain the liquor, and boil till it is reduced to two-thirds its oiiginal quantity, so that it will form a jelly when cold. Strain this, and free it entirely from fat. If necessary, clear it with white of egg, according to the directions given for clarifying jellj'. Brush two coats of this jelly over the turkey, then let the rest get cold and stiff ; cut it into dice, stars, strips, or other devices, and use it for garnishing the dish. Time to braise the turkey, four to six hours. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Turkey, Carving of. The breast of a tm-key is so large, that slices taken neatly from it and from the wings generally suffice for all TURKEY, ROAST, TO CARVE. the company. They should be taken from each side alternately, beginning close to the wings, and a little forcemeat and a small portion of hver should be served to each guest. AVhen it is necessary for the legs to be used, they should be separated from the body with a sharp knife and cut in slices, but it should be remembered that they, with the gizzard, will make an excellent devil. Turkey, Choosing of. A hen turkey is the best, and it should be young and plump. If young, the legs will be black and smooth. If fresh, the eyes will be bright and the feet supple. The length of the spur will show whether or not a cock turkey is young. Turkeys are in season from September to Februarj-, and are at their best at Christmas. They should be hung at least a week in suitable weather, but i if there is any fear that they are frozen, they TUB ( 1006 ) TUH should be kept in a wai-m kitchen for some hours before being di-essed. It is generally understood that a moderate-sized turkey is more likely to be tender than a very large one. Turkey, Cold, to Pry. Di ide the remains of a cold turkey into neat joints convenient for serving. Dip these into beaten egg, and afterwards into seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till thoy are lightly browned. Arrange them neatlj on a dish, and pour over them a little good gravy made as follows : Put the bones and ti-immings into a saucepan with as much stock or water as will cover them, a bunch of parsley, one or two sticks of celery, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently for an hour, pour out the liquor, strain and skim it. Mince two ounces of lean ham finely, and brown them gently in a little butter. Dredge some flour over them, and pour to them the strained gra y from the bones. Stew the gravy gently until it is wanted, skim well, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with toasted sippets and sliced lemon. Time, one hour and a half to make the gravy, five or six minutes to fry the joints of turkey. Turkey, Devil of, Dry. The legs, back, gizzard, and riunp of cold-di-essed turkey may be used for this dish. Score the meat along and across at regular distances, threequarters of an inch apart, and thi-ee-quarters of an inch deep. Eub into the gashes a wellmixed seasoning made of a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and the strained juice of a lemon, and cover with freshly-made mustard. Brush the pieces of meat over with butter or oil, and broil over a clear fii-e tiU they are brown and crisp without being at all burnt, and turn them over that they may be equally done on both sides. Send to table on a hot dish with little pieces of butter upon them. Diy toast may be served as an accompaniment. The devil will be all the more savoury if it is prepared some hours before it is broiled. If liked, haH a clove of garlic may be minced and mixed with the seasoning, or the following ingredients may be used for flavom-ing instead of those given above : Half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of curry-powder, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and a heaped salt-spoonful of mushi'oom or trufile-powder. Time, five minutes to prepare the de\'il, seven to ten minutes to broil it. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, exclusive of the meat, about 3d. Turkey, Devil of, with. Sauce. Devilled turkey prepared as above may be sent to table with sauce Robert, grill sauce, poivrade sauce, curry sauce, thick melted butter flavoured with anchovy or ketchup, or with a sauce prepared as follows : Mince four shallots or four young onions very finely, and put them into a small stewpan with as much good vinegar as will moisten them. Let them simmer gently till they are soft, then add a -w-ine-glassful of strong grayj', a pinch of cayenne, half a glassful of wine, and a small nut of ancho'vy butter, or if this is not at hand, use six or eight drops of the essence of anchovy, and stir a small lump of butter into the same after it is strained and put into the tureen. Boil the sauce two or three minutes longer, and serve. If liked, the savoury joints may be stewed in as much stock as will barely cover them, and served on a hot dish with the sauce pom-ed over them, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters lengthways, and arranged round the dish alternately with toasted sippets. Time to stew the legs, &c., nearly half an hour. Probable cost, varying with the sauce. Sufficient for four or five persons. Turkey, Drawing of. Lay the biid on its breast, jjush back the skin of the neck, and cut the neck itself off close to the body, but leave the skin long that it may be securely turned over. Remove the windpipe, and loosen the inside of the throat with the finger. Make an incision under the tail an inch and a half long, with the fingers remove the crop and the intestines, and be particulai-ly careful not to break the gall-bladder, which is fastened to the liver, nor to let any of the gall touch the bird, as it will impart a bitter taste which cannot afterwards be removed- Wash the inside with a soft rag, pour water through it, and dry it carefully. Turkey, Dressed to Eat Cold. Cold turkey makes a very usefid dish for suppers, luncheons, collations, &c. It may either be stewed or roasted, and may be dished whole and glazed, when it will form a handsome dish; or it may be cut into pieces convenient for serving, when two dishes at least may be made of it. If it is to be roasted, stuff it with sausage-meat, truss it firmly, and roast in the usual way. Let it get cold, then lay two coats of dissolved glaze lightly and evenly upon it with a brush, and remember that one coat must dry perfectly before another is put on. When it is not convenient to prepare this glaze at home, it may be bought at the Italian warehouses, and a quarter of a pound will be more than sufficient for a good-sized tm-key. Garnish the turkey as prettUy as possible with parsley, cut lemon, real or artificial cameUias, aspic jelly, beetroot, or any other devices ; ornament the dish with parsley and cut lemon, and fill the empty spaces in the centre of the dish with clear aspic jelly cut small. If the turkey is to be stewed, bone it if practicable, fill it with forcemeat, and lard the breast evenly with bacon. Truss the bird firmly, and lay it in a stewpan just large enough to hold it, with two shallots, a small onion stuck with one clove, a bunch of parsley, half a blade of mace, a dozen peppercorns, and a clove of garlic if the flavour is Uked. Cover the bird with white stock, and let it simmer very gently until it is half done ; then add two glassfuls of sherry, and simmer again until done enough. Lift it upon a dish, and let it cool. Strain the gravy, and boil it again until it is so much reduced that it wiU jelly. Strain it once more, and, if necessary, clear with white of egg, according to the directions given f';r clarifying jelly. Glaze the turkey with this, and sei-ve on a napkin garnished with parsley, cut lemon, beetroot, &c. If the turkey is to be cut up into pieces convenient for serving, divide it while the bird TUB, ( 1007 ) Tim is warm. Lay the pieces neatly on the dishes, and allot to each dish an equal share of white and brown meat, small pieces of stuffing, and of hver. Cut the heart, neck, and gizzard into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan with any trimmings that there may be, the gravy that dropped from the bird when it was roasted, and a calf's foot or a little piece of the knuckle of veal, so as to form a stock that will jelly when cold. Let all simmer gently together for three or four hours ; strain the stock, skim the fat from the top, put it into a clean saucepan, and mix smoothly with it as much flour as will form a paste. Stii' this quickly over the fire for two or three minutes till it is lightly browned; add the strained stock gradually, some pepper and salt, and also a little claret, ketchup, or any other flavouring. Pour some of this sauce over the pieces of turkey in each dish, so that they shall be lightly covered with it. Let them cool and stiffen before removing them. Garnish with fresh parsley before ser\-ing. The thighs of the turkey are sometimes reserved for broiling. Time,' two hours to stew a good-sized titrkey. Probable cost, uncertain. Turkey, Forcemeat for. Shied very finely four ounces of beef suet or beef marrow ; add four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of an ounce of mixed savoury herbs, of which two-thirds should be parsley and the remainder sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, a quarter of an ounce of fresh lemon-rind finely grated, and a little nutmeg, pepper, salt, and cajeTine. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with the yolks and white of two eggs. A large turkey will require double the quantity of forcemeat which the above ingredients will make, and many cooks use equal weights of sausage-meat and forcemeat well mixed together. Or shred finely four ounces of beef suet, and add four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, four ounces of lean undressed veal, a quarter of an ounce of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, a shallot finely minced, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Pound the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg. Or mix the above ingredients, and add a dozen bearded oysters finely minced, and a filleted anchovy, or two ounces of dressed lean ham or tongue finely grated. Tinned oysters may be used instead of fresh ones. Oyster sauce should be used with this forcemeat, which is suitable for a boiled turkey. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Tvirkey, Forcemeat of Chestnuts for. Mince finely a pound of fat, unsmoked bacon and three-quarters of a pound of lean, undressed veal. Season the mince with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and pound it in a mortar till smooth. Eoast and jjecl three dozen chestnuts, and put them into the body of the bird with the forcemeat. Or roast a pint of chestnuts gently, and peel them ; weigh them, and simmer half a pound of them for twenty minutes in as much veal gravy as will cover them. Drain them, and let them cool, then pound them in a mortar with four ounces of fresh butter, three ounces of grated breadcrumbs, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a smaller one of powdered mace, and a little pepper, salt, and caji enne. Bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolks of three eggs. Turkey, G-alantine of. This dish, though rather troublesome to prepare, is an excellent one for a supper or collation. Pluck, draw, and singe a plump hen turkej ; cut it in two down the breast, cut off the wings and neck, and bone it carefully without injuring the skin, first removing the back-bone. Remove some of the flesh from the inside of the turkey and from the legs, especially all the sinews. Lay the turkey flat on the table, skin downwards, and truss the legs inside. Spread on it a layer of veal forcemeat an inch deep, then put a layer of the meat cut from the tiu'key, and on this some strips of cooked lean ham and fat bacon, lean veal, boiled tongue, with three or four sliced trufiies, if obtainable. The meat and the trufiies must be laid on in such a way that the colours will contrast. Put another layer of forcemeat on the top, and season the whole with pepper and salt. Turn the skin over, roll the turkej'' in the form of a large sausage, and sew it up securely that the contents may not escape. Lay thin slices of fat bacon round it, and tie it in a cloth. Put it into a stewpan, cover with nicely-seasoned stock, and let it simmer gently for four hours. Two or three onions stuck with cloves, a bayleaf, three sliced carrots, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thjTne may be stewed in the stock with the turkey. Put the bones of the turkey into a separate stewpan with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let them simmer gently for an hour. Strain the liquor, stir a wine-glassfxil of white vdne into it, and pour this broth into the pan containing the tin-key. When the galantine is sufficiently dressed, lift it from the fire, and let it remain in the liquor for an hour. Tie it in a fresh cloth, and lay it on a dish ; put a weight upon it so that it may be pressed and still retain its shape, and let it remain until cold. Remove the cloth, clear it from fat, and brush two coats of glaze over it. Ornament with aspic jelly, beetroot, and eggs cut into various shapes, or with truffles, &c., stuck into it with silver skewers. Time, foui' hours to simmer the galantine. Sufficient for a large supper-dish. Turkey Giblets, Fricasseed. Take one set of turkey giblets ; these comprehend the wings, the feet, the gizzard, the liver, the head, and the neck. Clean them all carefully, skin and trim the feet, skin the gizzard and divide it into quarters, cut the neck into four pieces, and the wings and legs each into two pieces ; skin, split, and clean the head, and slice the liver. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and put in the giblets, with the exception of the liver, together with a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjTne, another of basil, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a httle pepper and salt. Fry these ingredients gently till they are lightly browned. Pour over them a pint of stock, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Lift them out, skim and strain the gra - ', and thicken it with a TUR ( 1008 ) TUR tea-spoonful of brown thickening. Put in the giblets once more with the liver, and sinamer all gently for ten minutes. Arrange the giblets neatly in the centre of a dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Any kind of vegetables may accompany this dish. Time, one hour and a half to simmer the giblets. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Turkey Giblets with Turnips and ?potatoes. Prepare the giblets as above. Take half a pound of streaky bacon, and cut it into convenient-sized pieces. Fry these in a little butter till they are lightly browned. Lift them out, then put in the giblets, and fry them in the same butter. Pour gravy over them, and simmer gently as in the last recipe. Cut thi-ee or four large turnips to the shape of corks, and peel six or eight button onions. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, drain and dry them, fry them in one ounce of butter till they are lightly browned, and put them aside. Peel a dozen small potatoes, and trim them neatly. Skim, strain, and thicken the gravy in which the giblets are stewed, and put in with the bacon fried vegetables, soon enough for them to be sufficiently dressed at the same time as the meat. They will require from fifteen minutes to half an hour, according to age and size. Arrange the giblets neatly in the centre of a hot dish, put the vegetables round them, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. The wings only of turkeys are often stewed in this way. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient for three or four persons. Turkey, Hashed. Cut the remains of a cold dressed turkey into neat slices, dredge a little flour over them, put them into a stewpan, pour over them any sauce that may be left, and add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, if required. Shake the pan over the fire until its contents are qi ite hot, but do not allow them to boil. Draw it to the side of the fire, and let the hash simmer gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Cut the forcemeat-balls into slices, and warm these in the oven or before the fire. AiTange the turkey neatly on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with alternate slices of forcemeat and toasted sippets. A spoonful of pickled walnuts, pickled mushrooms, kernelled olives, or minced gherkins, simmered in the sauce, wiU pleasantly vary the flavour of the hash. When there is no sauce left from the previous day, a little maybe made as follows : ? Put the skin, bones, and trimmings of the turkey into a saucepan with a pint of stock or water, a shallot, a spoonful of parsley, four or five cloves, and two or three sliced mushrooms. Simmer the sauce gently for half an hour, strain it, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and thicken with the crushed liver of the turkey and a little brown thickening. Before sending to table, a spoonful of lemonjuice may be added or not. Time, half an hour, exclusive of the sauce. Turkey, Marinaded and Broiled. Cut up a young turkey into neat joints. If practicable, bone the joints, and restore them to their original form. Lay them in a marinade made with four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of water, two table-spoonfuls of oil, three finely-minced shallots, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and one of pepper. Let them lie in this twelve hours, and turn them over two or three times that they may be equally seasoned. Drain them, dip them twice in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Send to table with them a sauce prei ared as follows : Boil two eggs for ten minutes; put them in cold water for five minutes, and afterwards put the yolks into a mortar with four finely-minced shallots, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon-leaves, a teaspoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Pound the ingredients to a smooth paste, and then add very gradually, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, thi-ee table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, two of best vinegar, and one of chilli vinegar. Beat the sauce for a minute or two between every addition, and sejid it to table in a tureen. Time to broil the joints, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, tui-key, 6s. or 8s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, Miueed. "When a tuikey has been so far used that neat sUcos cannot be cut from it to make a hash, the remains may be minced as follows : Cut off the meat, free it from skin, bone, and sinew, and mince it finely. Season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and put it into a stewjian with sufficient white sauce to moisten it. Let it simmer gently without boiling till it is quite hot, stirring all the time. Turn it upon a hot dish, and garnish with poached eggs and toasted sippets placed alternately. 'NVhen the white sauce is not at hand, a little may be made as follows : Put a quarter of a pint of stock into a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon-rind. Let it simmer gently a few moments till it is pleasantly flavoured with the lemon. Strain, and add gradually a dessert-spoonful of flour which has been smoothly mixed with three or four table-spoonfuls of milk or cream. Stir the sauce gently over the fire for a few minutes till it is quite thick, and add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg if required, and after it is taken from the fire stir half an oimce of fresh butter into it vmtil dissolved. Time, a few minutes to heat the Turkey, Old, The Best Way of Dressing. Stuti' the turkey with veal forcemeat, and truss it for boiling. Cut a pound of lean bacon into dice, and fry these in a quarter of a pound of butter over a clear fire till they are lightly browned. Put in the tm-key, breast downwards. Cover the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently for an hour. Lift it out, dredge two table-spoonfuls of flour into the butter, and stir it briskly with the back of a wooden spoon till it forms a smooth paste. Add gradually thi-ee or four pints of boiling stock, put in the turkey, and with it four or five largo carrots sliced, four turnips, a dozen button onions, a large bunch of parsley, two bayleaves, three or four sprigs of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Let all simmer gently together for four hours. Lift the turkey out, and keep it hot. Put the vegetables and sauce TUR ( 1009 ) TUR into a clean saucepan, place this by the side of the fire, and carefully remove the grease, &c., as it rises to the surface. When no more appears, boil the sauce quickly for a fewminutes. Serve the turkey on a hot dish. Arrange the vegetables round it, and pour the sauce over. Garnish the dish with small boiled potatoes or with roasted chestnuts. Time to dress the turkey, five hours. Turkey Patties. Make some patties or small vol-au-vents of good puff paste, and bake them separately. AMien they are baked enough, take them out of the oven, and threeparts fill them with a hot savoury mixture prepared as foUows: Mince a little of the white meat of a cold dressed turkey very finely, and add a small proportion of grated ham. Stew this gently for a minute or two in as much melted butter or good gravy as will barely cover it, add a spoonful of thick cream, and season the preparation with a little grated lemon-rind, white pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Care should be taken that the mince is made very thick, and that the patties are not filled so full that the gravy will run over. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare the mince. Probable cost, patties, 2d. each, exclusive of the cold meat. Sufiicient, eight or ten for a dish. Turkey Pinions, Stewed. Remove the large wing-bone from the pinions, and fold the skin over at the end. Fry the wings in a little butter till thej' are Ughtly browned, dredge some flour over, barely cover them with stock, and add a bunch of parsley, a small onion stuck with one clove, and a Httle pepper and salt. A glassful of claret may be put into the stock if liked. Let all simmer gently together for an hoiir, then add half a dozen small onions fried in butter, and four or five mushrooms chopped small. Just before ser\'ing the stew, mince a tea-spoonful of capers finely, and stir it into the sauce. Put the pinions into the centre of a dish, pour the sauce over and round them, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time, an hour and a haK. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the pinions. Sufficient, one set of pinions for one or two persons. Turkey Pinions, Stewed (another way). Prepare the pinions as in the preceding recipe. Fry them in butter or bacon-fat till they are lightly browned, then pour some nicelyflavoured white stock over them, and simmer gently until done enough. Lay them between two dishes, and let them remain until cold. Strain the gravj', and free it entirely from fat. Boil quickly until it is so much reduced that it will jelly when cold. ',Vhen the pinions are to be served, warm them in the gra\'A', and let the gravy simmer again until it is quite thick. Put the pinions on a dish, lightly cover them with the gravy, and send the rest to table in a tureen. This dish may be sent to table with sorrel, or with a puree of chestnuts or lentils. Time, an hour and a half to stew the pinions. Sufficient, one set of pinions for one or two persons. Turkey, Plucking of. When plucking a turkev, or poultry of any kind, be careful to 69 pull out the feathers in the direction in which they lie. If this point is not attended to, the skin may be torn and the appearance of the bird spoiled. After the bird is plucked, singe off the hairs with a lighted paper. Turkey, Potted. Take a small turkey weighing about five pounds; pluck, singe, draw, and bone it, and cut off the neck and legs. Lay it skin downwards on a table, season with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, spread a layer of forcemeat all over it, and roll it I round. Choose a potting-pan of a suitable size j for the titrkey. Place a layer of forcemeat I at the bottom, put in the bird, and cover with I forcemeat. Lay three or four thin sUces of : fat bacon and a bay-leaf on the top. Cover I the pan, and place it in a large saucepan with \ boiling water two inches deep, and add more I boihng water as this evaporates to keep it to j the same depth. Put it into the oven, and let I it cook gently imtil done enough. In order to i ascertain when this point is reached, push a j trussing-needle right through the body of the ' bird, and when it enters easilj' the turkey may I be taken out. Let it get cold, and cover the j surface with a layer of good dripping or lard. I Set it in a cool place for several hours, and it wiU ; be ready for use. The forcemeat may be made j as follows : Cut the meat in shoes, free from ! skin and sinew, from the legs of the bird. Put 'i with it half a pound of lean veal and a pound I of fat bacon. Mince all finely together, and I pound the mixture till it is quite smooth, and i whilst pounding keep adding pepper, salt, and ! spice until it is pleasantly flavoured. The quantity of salt must be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Time to bake, three hours. Turkey, Potted (another way). Cut the flesh from a cold roast turkey, and free it from skin and sinew. Weigh it, mince finely, and pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste with one-fourth of its weight in grated tongue or ham, an equal weight of fresh butter, and whilst pounding the meat keep adding salt, pepper, and powdered mace in small quantities at a time tiU it is pleasantly and rather highly seasoned. When the meat is quite smooth, press it into small pots, and cover with clarified butter a quarter of an inch deep. Store in a cool place. Time, three-quarters of an hour or more to prepare. Turkey Poult, Cold, To Re-dress. The remains of a turkey poult may be minced, made into patties, croquettes, &c., or, indeed, dressed up in various ways very much hke the larger bird. The following will be found to be the most satisfactory way of serving it a second time : C'lit the meat into neat pieces free from skin, bone, and sinew. Put the trimmings into a saucepan with a pint of white stock, a small bunch of parsley, a finely -minced shallot, and six mushrooms chopped small. Add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer the sauce till it is pleasantly flavoured and jDartly reduced. Strain it, thicken with a httle white roux or with flour and butter, and add an equal quantity of new milk or cream. Stir it over the fire till it TUR ( 1010 ) TUB toils, put in the slices of meat, and let them simmer until they are quite hot ; but the sauce must not boil after they are added. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish the dish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time : about an hour and a quarter to make the sauce; four or five minutes to heat the meat. Probable cost, if milk be used, 8d., exclusive of the cold turkey poult. Ttirkey Poult, To Roast. The turkey poult or young turkey is an excellent substitute for the fully-grown bird, as it is most easily obtained in summer and autumn, when the large tm-keys are out of season. The young ones may be said to be in season whenever they are large enough to be used. They may be roasted in the same way as a fuUy-grown bird. It is not usual to fill them vdth forcemeat, though some epicures, regardless of expense, are partial to them when stuffed with truffles, and served with perigueux sauce. Tongue, bacon, or sausages are generally sent to table with them. Turkey poults are trussed with the head tucked under the wing, and the legs twisted under like a duck. Unlike the grown bird, the feet may be left on, though the claws must be cut off. A turkey poult should be put down to a clear fire, liberally basted, and when ?done enough should be served on a dish garnished with watercress. Brown gravy and bread sauce should be sent to table with it. Time to roast, thi-ee-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half, accordiag to size. Turkey Poult, Truffled. FiU the body of the bird with nicely-seasoned veal forcemeat, and add as many truffles as it may be wished to use, first cutting them into balls the size of a walnut. The triromings of the truffles may be used to make sauce, or they may be minced and mixed vith the forcemeat. Lard the breast of the bird, or, if this is not practicable, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, truss firmly, and put it down before a clear fire. Baste Hberally, and serve truffle sauce or bread sauce with it. Time to roast, one hour or more, according to size. Tvirkey, Pulled. Tabe the remains of a dressed tui-key. Cut off the legs, and score the meat in them and the gizzard at regular distances. Season highly, as for devilled turkey, and set them aside. Kemove the skin from the body, and puU the white meat from the bones in long flakes with a fork. Put the bones and trimmings of the turkey into a stewpan with a pinch of powdered mace, a finelyminced shallot, the rind and straiaed juice of half a lemon, a pint of stock, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured ; strain and skim it, thicken with white thickening or with a little flour and butter, and add a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Let the gravy boH afew minutes, then put in the meat, and let it simmer again until the latter is quite hot, but do not let the gravy boil after the meat is added. While the meat is simmering take the legs and gizzard already seasoned, dip them in clarified butter, and broil over a clear fire till they are lightly browned without being burnt. Put the pulled tm-key with the sauce into the centre of a hot dish, lay the legs upon it, and serve very hot. Time, an hour to make the sauce, eight or ten minutes to broQ the legs. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold turkey, if milk i-s used. Sufficient for thi'ee or four persons. Turkey Rissoles. Take the remains of cold-dressed turkey. Cut off the meat, free it from skin and sinew, and weigh it. Mince finely, and with a poxmd of meat put a quarter of a pound of grated tongue or lean ham, and a quarter of a pound of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Add two ounces of clarified butter or two ounces of fat bacon finely minced, a boiled onion chopped small, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with the yolk of an egg. RoU out some puff paste very thin, stamp it out in rounds, and lay a spoonful of meat on each round. Moisten the edges of the pastry, and draw them together, at the top of the meat to form a ball. Dip these in beaten egg, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly bro-wTied. Drain on a sieve before the fire for a few minutes to free them from fat, and serve piled on a neatly-folded napkin. Time, five or six minutes to fry the rissoles. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold turkey. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, Roast. There are several methods of preparing a turkey for roasting. The bird may be simply trussed like a fowl, and roasted without being stuffed at all, and will be found excellent, the pure flavour of the bird being then presented Tinmixed with any taste that does not belong to it. When dressed in this way it should be served on a dish garnished with watercresses, and no other sauce than its o vn gravy should accompany it. The usual way of serving roast tm-key, however, is to stuff it either with veal forcemeat, chestnuts, or sausage-meat, and to send it to table accompanied by a string of sausages, bread sauce, and brown gTavy, or chestnut sauce. Forcemeat flavoured with oysters or mushrooms, and the accompanying sauces are more suitable for boiled than roast tm-key. Pluck, draw, singe, and truss the tm-key. Tie a buttered paper over the breast, and hang the bird before a clear fire. Baste frequently whilst it is being roasted. Unless this point is attended to the meat will be dry and tasteless. A quarter of an hour before the bii-d is taken down, remove the jmper, dredge a little flour over the breast, and baste it well with cold butter. This wiU make the froth stronger than if hot dripping is used. Let it bro-svi. brightly. Gamisk -with lemon and sausages, or forcemeat balls. Serve very hot. Time for a small turkey, an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; for a moderate-sized turkey weighing ten pounds, about two hours ; twelve to foixrteen pounds, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, moderate-sized tmkey, 8s. to 14s., exeepting at Chi-istmas. Turkey, Roast (another way). Take a well-kept but perfectly sweet young hen tm-key. Pluck, di-aw, and singe it carefully, TUB ( 1011 ) TUB ?wipe the outside with, a damp cloth, wash the inside, and dry it well. Fill with onion forcemeat, truss securely for roasting, and put it down to a clear fire. Baste liberally, and when it is done enough dish it, and pour over it some tomato or truffle sauce. Serve very hot. The onion stuffing may be made as follows : Skin half a dozen largo onions, throw them into boiling water, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. Drain and mince them, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, thi-ee moderate-sized truffles thinly sliced, the crumb of two stale rolls which have been soaked in milk and afterwards squeezed till dry, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, the yolks of three eggs, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Beat these ingredients thoroughly over a gentle fire until they form a smooth compact mass, and the forcemeat ?will be ready for use. Time to roast small turkey, an horn- and a half ; large turkey, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 8s. to 14s., but more expensive at Christmas. Sufficient, a moderate-sized turkey for six or seven persons. Turkey, Rolled. Cut a young tiu-key dovra the middle into two parts, remove the bones without injui-ing the skin, lay the pieces flat on the table skin downwards and spread over each a layer of good veal forcemeat threequarters of an inch thick. Roll them up like a .sausage, cover ?with thin slices of fat bacon, and tie this on with twine. Lay the rolls in a stewpan, cover with stock, and put with them a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two carrots, two onions in which two cloves have been stuck, a parsnip, half a small blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently until they are done enough, and skim the liquor carefully. \Vhen the bird is halfcooked a glassful of wine may be added to the liquor. Rolled turkey may be eaten hot or cold. If, it is to be eaten hot, put the rolls on a hot dish, remove the t'wine, strain and thicken the sauce, pour part of it over the meat, and send the rest to table in a tureen. If it is to be eaten cold, let the rolls lie in the liquor for half an hour after they are taken from the fire, and when the meat is cold brush over with two coats of glaze. Time to simmer the roUs, one hour and a half. Turkey, Sauces for. Bro wn gravy and bread sauce are the usual accompaniments to roast tui-key. Oyster sauce, celery sauce, tomato sauce, mushroom, chestnut, and truffle sauce, are all suitable accompaniments. Sausages are generally put round the bird, and salt meat of some kind. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork is sent to table -with both roast and boiled tui'key. With boiled turkey, celery sauce, oyster sauce, bread sauce, or white sauce should be served. The nature of the sauce should, of course, be regulated by that of the forcemeat. Turkey Soup, Economical. Take the bones and trimmings of a turkej', after the meat has been made into patties, or rissoles, minced, pulled, or de\illed, break them into small pieces, put them into a stewpan vrith. any forcemeat or sauce that may be left, and pour over them two quarts of stock. Bring this slowly to the boU, skim carefully, and add a little salt and pepper, a few sticks of celery, an onion, and a carrot. Let these simmer gently till the bones are quite clean. Strain the soup, and free it from fat. Add further seasoning if liked, and either thicken the soup with two ounces of ground rice or arro-wroot made into a paste with a little stock and boiled up in the soup, or, if a clear soup is preferred, clarify according to the directions given for clarifying soup. Drop a little vermicelli, or macaroni, or turned vegetables into it, let them boil a few minutes, and then serve. The clarifying process will not be necessary i? the soup has been gently simmered, thoroughly skinimed, and well strained. If no stock from bones, &c., is at hand, a little may be made by boiling two pounds of the inferior parts of beef in five pints of water for two or three hours, and in this case the bones of the turkey may be stewed with the beef. Or half a pound only of fresh beef may be used, with a tea-spoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat dissolved in the liquor. Time, four hours. Turkey Soup, Superior. Take the remains of a cold boiled or roast turkey, cut off the meat, mince it finely, pound tiU smooth, and put it aside till wanted. Break up the body of the bird into small pieces, put these into a stewpan with two quarts of nicelyflavoured white stock, and let them simmer gently for one hour and a half. Strain the gravy, let it cool, skim off the fat, and season with salt and cayenne. Cut a quarter of a pound of stale crumb of bread into thin slices, soak these for a few minutes in as much of the stock as they will absorb, let them simmer a few minutes, and afterwards squeeze the pulp in a cloth till it is quite di-y. MLx this thoroughly with the flesh of the tuikey which was put aside, add the soup gradually and smoothly to the paste, and rub the whole through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Let it boil once more, add salt and cayenne as required, and just before serving add a pint of boiling cream or milk. If the soup is not sufficiently thick, it may be made so by adding an ounce of arro wroot or ground rice made into a smooth batter with a little cold milk and boiled in it before the cream is added. The soup ought to be of the consistency of thick cream. If no white stock is at hand, a little may be made as follows : Divide two pounds of the scrag-end of a neck of veal, or a calf's foot well cleaned, or a knuckle-bone of veal, into small pieces, put them into a saucepan with five pints of cold water, a slice of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a few outer sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Let all simmer gently for three hours. Strain the soup, let it go cold, remove the fat, add a little salt, and it will be ready for use. If there be any liquor in which mutton, veal, rabbits, or chickens have been boiled, it may be stewed with the flavouring ingredients, without any meat. Time, four hours to make the stock, thi-ce hours to make the soup. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Turkey, Stewed. A small turkey should be chosen for this dish. Stuff the bird, and TUB ( 1012 ) TUB truss it for roasting. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan just large enough, to hold the bird, and add two large slices of fat bacon cut into dice. Lay the bird in this, put it over a clear fire, and when it is brightly browned on one side, turn it upon the other. Lift it out, drain it, and put it into another stewpan, with a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace, and a clove of garlic or not, as preferred. Cover the bird with good stock, add a little pepper and salt, and let it simmer gently until it is halfcooked. Put in a glassful of sherry, and let it remain until done enough. Take it up, and put it on a dish in a hot oven, that it may retain its heat for a few minutes. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with a little brown thickening, and let it boil a minute. or two. Pour a little of it round the turkey, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Oyster sauce is an excellent accompaniment to this dish, and a boned and pounded anchovy and a small shallot may be advantageously added to the forcemeat with which the tm-key is stuffed. Time to stew the turkey, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6s. to r2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts. Take as many sound chestnuts as will completely fiU the body of the bird. Make a small gash with a sharp knife in the outer skin to keep them from bursting, thi-ow them into plenty of fast-boiling water, and let them boil until soft. Drain and dry them, and peel off the outer and the inner skin, look them over carefully, and reject any decayed or mouldy nuts. Fill the turkey's crop with good veal forcemeat, afterwards fill the body of the bird with the boiled chestnuts and the liver, and sew it up securely. Put it do vn to roast, and baste liberally. Serve on a hot dish, and send browTi gravy and either bread sauce or onion sauce to table with it. The brown sauce may be made with the turkey giblets as follows : Mince the heart and gizzard, and let them simmer gently for an hour or more. Skim the liquor, strain it, thicken with a httle brown thickening, and season with pepper and salt. Add a glassful of claret and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, let it boil a minute or two, and it wiU be ready for serving. Time to roast the turkey, an hour and a half to two hours and a half, according to size. Turkey Stuffed with Chicken. Bone a young chicken without injuring the skin. Draw the legs and wings inside, fill the body with freshly-made nicely-seasoned sausagemeat, and make it round and compact in form. Put it inside a boned turkey ; fill all the empty spaces with sausage-meat, and truss the turkey firmly, restoring it as nearly as possible to its original form. Cover with buttered paper, and put it down before a clear fire, though at some distance from it. Baste liberally, and roast very slowly, or the outside of the turkey will be done enough before the heat has penetrated to the interior of the chicken. This dish is a great favom'ite with many of the English residents in Calcutta. It may be served hot or cold with the usual sauces,' and in carving the turkey slices should be cut across the breast, so that each guest may have a share of tirrkey, chicken, and forcemeat. Time, two or three hours, according to the size of the birds. Turkey Stuffed with Mushroom Forcemeat. Take six or eight small mushrooms, peel them, jjut them into a saucepan with a sKce of fresh butter, and let them simmer gently for seven or eight minutes. Drain the liquor from them, and let them cool ; then mince them, and mix them with a quarter of a pound of finely-gxated bread-crumbs. Add a slight seasoning of salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, but be careful that the mushroom flavoiu- is not overpowered. Work an ounce of fresh butter into the forcemeat, bind it together with the yolk of an egg, and add as much of the butter in which the mushrooms were stewed as it will take without being made too moist. Pound the mixture thoroughly, and it will be ready for use. Fill the turkey with it, boil or roast it, and send mushroom sauce to table with it. Double this quantity of forcemeat will be required for a larffe turkey. Time, one hour to prepare the forcemeat. Turkey Stuffed with Sausage-meat. Take a well-kept turkey weighing about eight pounds. Bone it according to the directions previously given, and draw out aU the bones excepting those of the wings. Take about three pounds of fine sausage-meat, and one pound of veal forcemeat. If liked, sausagemeat only may be used, and in this case some minced herbs should be mixed with the seasoning. The sausage-meat should be rich with fat, and moistened with a little cold stock or water. FiU the empty places where the bones have been and the body of the bird with the sausage-meat. Draw the tmkey to its original form, tie both ends of the bird and the ends of the legs securely, truss the bird firmly, and plump it well {see Turkey, Trussed for Eoasting). Flour it, tie it to the spit, instead of sticking the hook into it, and let it be well supported by leaving a string tied once or twice round the body, as the stuffing will make the bird heavy. Put it down to a clear fire, but at some distance from it, and baste liberally until done enough. "When this point is reached the steam will draw towards the fire. Flour and baste the bird again for a few minutes, take it up, send it to table on a hot dish, garnishing with sausage and forcemeat balls. Bread sauce may be served with the tm-key, together with a little gravy made of the bones of the bird stewed down with stock, and a little seasoning. The appearance of the dish will be improved if the breast is evenly larded. A roasted turkey is very good stuffed with sausage-meat without being boned. Time to roast the turkey, nearly two houi-s. Probable cost, turkey, 6s. to 12s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, To Bone, {see Fowl, To Bone, without opening). Turkey, Trufl9.ed. There is no dish more highly esteemed than a truifled turkey. The easiest and perhaps in the end the most satisfactory way of getting one is to procure TUR ( 1013 ) TUR it from France, through a first-class poulterer, ready fattened, stuffed with truffles, and ready for the sj it. It will be all the better for the vinter's jom'ney, asbii'ds so stuffed are always kept for several days after to allow the perfume of the truffles to penetrate the flesh. The cost of a turkey thus prepared will vary from one to five guineas, exclusive of the carriage. When once obtained, a truffled turkey is easily dressed, as it simply requires to be roasted, plentifully basted, and served with its own gravy only, for though bread sauce and onion sauce are occasionally served with it, properly speaking no rival flavoiu- ought to approach the truiiie. Fine fresh truffles are, however, so expensive, that mushi-ooms or chestnuts are often substituted for them, pounded with bacon in exactly the same way, and a turkey thus prepared will prove to most people quite as acceptable as rf really truffled. When it is preferred, however, that the turkey should be stuffed with truffles at home, procure a young, plump, freshly-killed hen turkey. Take a pound and a haK of truffles for a moderate-sized bird, and two pounds for a large one. SmeU them, and reject any that are mouldy. Wash them carefully, and scrub with a soft brush till not a particle of earth or grit remains upon them. Cut about a pound of the truffles into balls an inch and a half in diameter. Poimd the rest with the trimmings to a smooth paste, adding an equal weight of fat bacon. The bacon should be rasped and pounded separately, then mixed with the pounded truffles, and the forcemeat seasoned with salt and pepper only. When the forcemeat is quite smooth mix the whole truffles with it, and put the preparation into the body of the turkey. Let it hang for five or six days after it is stuffed, and when it is to be roasted, lay a slice of fat bacon upon the breast, and a piece of buttered paper over that, and baste liberally whilst it isbefore the fire. If it is wished that truffle sauce should accompany this dish, a few truffles may be put aside for the purpose. Truffle sauce is made as follows : Mince four truffles finely, put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and shake them over the fire for ten minutes. Add haK a pint of brown sauce, a little pepper and salt, and a glassful of. sherry ; let these ingredients simmer for a quarter of an hour, skim off the fat, and serve. Time, roast the turkey the usual time. i Turkey Truffled Economically. i Take a freshly-killed plump young turkey. If large, half a pound of fine fresh truffles wiU be ' required for it, if small, a quarter or a third of a pound will be sufiicient. Wash and scrub the truffles carefully as in the preceding recipe, drain and dry them, and cut them into thin slices without peeling them. Boil or roast some fine sound chestnuts ; the quantity must be regulated by the size of the turkey. There must be sufflcient with the truffles to fill the body of the bird. Before boiling them, make a little cut in the outer skin of each nut to keep it from bursting. When aU are done, throw them into slightlysalted water, and let them boil quickly until tender : they will take from half an hour to an hour. Skin them, mix the sliced truffles with them ; then fiU the body of the bird with the mixture, and let the turkey hang for two or three days in a cool airy situation. On the day that it is to be dressed fill the crop of the bird with good veal forcemeat, truss it firmly, tie a buttered paper over the breast, and roast it before a clear fire. Hang it at first some distance from it, and baste liberally. A tm-key prepared as above will be sufficiently flavoured with truffles to satisfy most people, indeed, all but those who are excessively fond of truffles. If liked, bread sauce or onion sauce may be sent to table with this dish, but generally a truffled turkey is served with its own gravy only. Time, an hoiir and a haK to two houi's and a haK, according to size. Turkey Trussed for Boiling. Pluck, singe, and draw the bii'd, and be particularly careful not to break the gall-bladder, which adheres to the liver, for K any of the gall touches the bird it will impart a bitter taste to it. Cut off the head and neck, and leave sufficient skin to turn and sew over the back. After the forcemeat is put into the breast, cut off the legs at the first joint, di-aw the upper legs into the body, and make a slit for the stumps to go in. Break and flatten the breast-bone, and also break the back-bone, that the bird may lie flat on the dish. Truss firmly, to make it look as plump and round as possible. Turn the pinions 'with the points over the back, and fasten Uver (freed from gall) imder one pinion, and the gizzard (washed and skinned) under the other. Skewer the apron over the nose, and pass string firmly round the body, fasten it to the skewers, and tie it in the middle of the back. Turkey Trussed for Roasting. Pluck and singe the bii-d, and in drawing it preserve the liver and gizzard. Be particularly careful not to break the gall-bag, which adheres to the liver, as if any of the gaU touches the bii'd no amoirnt of washing will remove the bitter taste which it wUl impart. Cut off the feet, and draw out the strings or sinews from the thighs there are five or six in each leg. Place three or four folds of cloth on the high breast-bone, and break and flatten it with a roUing-pin to make the bird look plump. Cut off the head and neck close to the body, and before doing so push back the skin of the neck so that sufficient may be left on to turn over the back. Hold the legs in boiliag water for a minute or two, and afterwards peel off the rough dirty skin. FiU the breast with forcemeat, and sew the neck over the back. Press the legs close to the breast, and pass a skewer through them and the body. Turn the points of the \'ings over the back, skewer them through the body, and put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Cut a slit in the apron, and put the nose through. Pass a string over the back of the bird, put it firmly rormd the skewers, and tie it in the middle. Tie a buttered paper over the breast, and be very careful to truss the bird firmly. The liver of the turkey must be freed from gall and covered with a buttered paper, or it wiU be dry and hard. The gizzard must be carefully cleansed as it contains stones skinned and washed, seasoned with pepper and salt, and, TUR ( 1014 ) TUR like the liver, guai'dcd from the' heat by buttered paper. Turkey, Trussing and Carving of (Dr. Kitchiner's observations). The rules for cutting up a pheasant are in all respects applicable to a turkey; whether roasted or boiled, it is trussed and sent to table like a fowl. In trussing it, three skewers should be placed so as to admit the spit between them and the back of it : these keep it firm on the spit, and jrevent the great weight of the stuffing, &c., from making it turn irregiUar while at the fire. One skewer should be passed through the legs ; one in the middle, which confines the wings; and the other imder the wings, near the end of the merry-thought. The best parts of a turkey are the white ones the breast, wings, and neck-bones. The neck must be taken away, and the hollow part under the breast stuffed with forcemeat, which is to be cut in thin slices in the direction from the rump to the neck, and a slice given with each piece of tui'key. The breast is the only part usually cut up ; if more is wanted, take off one or both wings, a leg, &c. The gizzard and rump are favourites with some epicures. It is called a devil when well peppered, salted, and broiled: many people score it with a knife before it is peppered and salted. If you wish a turkey, especially a very large one, to be tender, never dress it till at least four or five days (in cold weather, eight or ten) after it has been kiUed. " No man who understands good li%-ing wUl say, on such a day I will eat that turkey but will hang it up by four of the large tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning visit to the larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it when it falls, that day let it be cooked." Turkey with Celery Sauce. -Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon ; then boil it in water with a little salt, butter, and lemonjuice. Drain it, and cover over with celery sauce. Turkey with Chipolata Garnish. Pluck, draw, and singe a plUmp turkey, stuff and roast in the usual way. Put it on a dish, and garnish with chipolata garnish (se Chipolata Garnish). Pour a little bro \-n sauce over it, and send some more to table in a tureen. A good deal of taste is required to garnish this dish. Chipolata garnish is worth nothing unless it is tastefully arranged. Turkey with Truffles. Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has been killed ; empty it, and put plenty of salt inside the body to draw the blood out. Then let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the following manner : take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell whether they are all of a good flavour, and not musked. Pick out the smallest from amongst them, and chop them very fine. Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it, so as to obtain the fat only, without any of the sinews. When you have rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, put the chopped trufiles into the mortar, pound them with the rasped bacon, season well with salt, pepper, spices, &c., then mix this with large truffles, and put aU in the turkey. Let the turkey remain thus for two or three days to acquire the flavour of the truffles ; sew the bird up as soon as you have finished it, and when you want it roasted, put it on the spit, covered with bacon on the breast and a few sheets of white paper, and take great care when you open the paper that you do not loosen the trufiles. Serve with a clear Spanish sauce. This dish is one of the best possible if it is well seasoned and roasted. It is scarcely necessary to observe that the carver must serve the inside with the fillet, as that is one of the best parts of the dish. Udc. Turkey's Eggs [see Eggs, Turkey's). Turkeys, Forcemeat for {see Forcemeat for Turkeys ; Oysters for Forcemeat for Boiled Fowls or Turkeys ; and Forcemeat for Tm-keys, Eoast). Turkish Pilau. A pilau, as really served in Turkey and Arabia, consists simply of rice boiled as for curry so that the grains are kept entire, mixed with a little butter, and seasoned with pepper and salt, then laid upon a dish, and the stewed meat placed upon it. For Western use, a pUau is very good prepared as follows : Koast a rabbit, a chicken, or two or three pounds, of mutton ; when the meat is sufiiciently cooked cut it into neat pieces convenient for serving, and put these aside until wanted. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with two ounces of lean ham cut into dice, or a little blanched bacon-rind, a sprig of thyme, an onion stuck with two cloves, a small carrot, half a dozen peppercorns, and a pint of stock or water. Simmer the liquor gently, and skim carefully until it is pleasiintly flavoured and considerably reduced. Add some salt if required. Wash one poimd of Patna rice, threw it into boilingwater for five minutes, drain it, dry it in a cloth, put it into a clean saucepan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stir it about over a gentle fire until it is lightly and equally coloured. Pour over it a pint and a half of stock, and let it simmer very gently untU it has entirely absorbed the liquor, and is quite tender and diy without the grains being broken. Throw "in a httle salt and white pepper and a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, and stir lightly with a fork to separate the grains. PUe it at once high on a dish, and place upon it the sHces of meat which, a few minutes previously, have been heated but not l)oiled in the sauce made from the bones, &c. If a fowl has been used for the pilau, a table- spoonful of stewed sultana raisins may be placed on the top before serving. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to beil the rice. Probable cost, 4s. Sufiacient for five or six persons. Turnip. This excellent vegetable is extensively used in cookery, either alone and boiled whole, mashed in stews, or to flavour soups and sauces. There are many varieties of the turnip. The best are small, finely-grained, juicy, smooth, and sound When turnips areused for flavouring soups and sauces, it should be remembered that the liquor in which they are boiled -will not keep very long, and also' that turnips boiled with onions will correct the very strong flavour of the latter. The peel of TUB ( 1015 ) TUH the turnip, if thoroughly washed, will flavour soup and sauce as well as the vegetahlo itseH. Turnips are in season from May till February. They may be had all the year round, but in spring they arc only useful for flavouring. Tvirnip and Potato Soup, D two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and fry in it two large onions sliced till they are brightly browned. Pour over them two quarts of stock made from bones or from the liquor in which meat has been boiled, and add half a dozen shced turnips, half a dozen mealy potatoes, and three or four crusts of bread, together with a bayleaf and a few sticks of celery if liked. Simmer all gently together till the vegetables are quite soft, rub the soup through a fine sieve, and season with pepper and salt. Let it boil up once more, and serve very hot. Serve toasted sippets on a separate dish. This soup is not likely to keep good more than a day or two. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Turnip Broth. This is made with about a dozen turnijjs peeled and cut into slices. Blanch them for a short time in water, and j drain them ; put them with a knuckle of veal, a I small piece of beef, and the half of a hen into a stewpan ; and pour some rich boiling broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for about two hours ; then strain it through a double silk sieve, and use it with rice, vermicelli, &c. &c. Turnip-greens, To Boil {see Greens, Turnip, Boiled). Turnip Badishes, To Boil. Radishes are generally eaten raw with salads, &c. The small white turnip radishes are, however, sometimes boiled and served as a vegetable, and the ordinary long radishes, when young, may be tied in bunches, boiled till tender and served like asparagus on toast. They are good with either boiled or roast meat. To boil turnip radishes proceed as follows : Take the radishes when young and freshly pulled. Wash them well, trim them neatly, leaving about an inch of the stalks, and lay them in cold water for half an hour. Drain them, and throw them into plenty of boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil gently till tender. Drain them, and serve in a tureen with melted butter poured over them. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. per bunch. Sufiicient, one bunch for one or two persons. Turnip Soup. Wash and pare half a dozen turnips, and let them lie in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Drain them, and cut them up small. Put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter and three ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and stir them about over a gentle fire for two or three minutes. Add two or three onions and one or two sticks of celery, and pour over them a pint of stock made from bones. Let them simmer gently till they are quite soft, dredge two handfuls of flour over them, and beat them briskly with a wooden spoon till they are quite smooth. Moisten gradually with two pints of stock, and stir the soup over the fire till it boils. Eub it through a fine hair sieve, let it boil up again, add salt, pepper, and powdered mace, and half a pint of boiling cream, and it will be ready for serving. If liked, a bay-leaf and two or three cloves may be stewed with the other ingredients, and the flour may be omitted, and a little ground rice or arrowroot substituted for it. Send toasted sippets to tabic on a separate dish. Time, two hours and a half, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, 4d. per pint, exclusive of the stock. Turnip-Tops. Turnip-tops are frequently used as greens. When freshly cut they are very good, and they have a slightly bitter taste which recommends them to many. Trim off the decayed leaves and stems, and wash the greens in several waters. Drain them, and throw them into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water slightly salted. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let them boil quickly till they are quite tender. AVhen done enough, put them into a colander, and squeeze the water gently from them. Turn them into a hot vegetable-dish, pepper them lightly, and spread a little butter on them; cut the surface across both ways with a knife, and serve. If any of these greens are left, they may be served upagain after being finely chopped with butter and salt, and heated in a saucepan. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost generally very cheap Id. or 2d. per poimd. Sufficient, two pounds for three or four persons. Turnip-Tops {see Cabbage, Tumip-Tops, and Greens). Tiirnips. These are seldom served whole, but after being boiled are mashed before being sent to table. When stringy they must be passed through a coarse sieve. In order tomash them, press the water well from them, add enough butter, salt, and pepper, with a little powdered white sugar, which greatly improves their flavoiu'. A little flour mixed with the butter renders the turnips less watery when mashed. Turnips, Boiled. Turnips should only be served whole when they are very young, and then they should be covered with white sauce. When they have reached any size they should be mashed. Pare the turnijjs, and wash them ; if very young a little of the green top may be left on; if very large they should be divided into halves or even quarters. Throw them into slightly-salted water, and let them boil gently till tender. Drain, and seiwe them. Time to boil, old turnips, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half; young turnips, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Boiled and Served with Sauce. Boil the turnips as in the last recipe. Put them in a tureen, grate a little nutmeg over them, and cover with good melted butter. If preferred, omit the nutmeg, and stir a spoonful of freshly-mixed mustard into the sauce before pouring it over the vegetables. Turnips served in this way may be shced, cut into dice, TUR ( 1016 ) TUR or turned into any fanciful shapes before being boiled. Time to boil, twenty minutes to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Brown Piir e of. Instead of blanching the turnips, sweat them on a slow fire in a little butter. Take care they do not burn. When they are well done, moisten with three spoonfuls of sauce tom-nee and one spoonful of veal gravy. Give them a good seasoning, rub them through a tamis, and send up with fried toasts of bread. Never omit putting in a small lump of sugar before you serve up, to overcome the bitter taste of the turnips. Such entremets are not much approved of in England, but in winter, and in the country, you very often have no choice for courses. Ude. Turnips, Duck, Braised, with [see Duck, Braised, with Turnips). Turnips, for Garnish. Very effectivelooking flowers for garnishiag cold dishes such as roast turkeys, tongues, &c., may be made with turnips. Skill in making these can only be acquired by practice, and in order to attain it the best plan would be to procui'e a small sound turnip, a sharp penknife, a little liquid cochineal, a paint brush, and a real camellia, or any other suitable flower, as a pattern. Cut and shape the turnip, and endeavour to imitate the real flower as closely as possible. Paint the edges of the leaves a rosy ,tint with the cochineal, push in a little piece of stick for a stalk, and fasten two or thi'ee bay -leaves round the flower. Turnips for Garnish (another way). When tui-nips are to be used for gai-nishiug lishes they may be prepared either white or coloured. Pare the thick skin from them, wash and drain them, and either cut them into slices of uniform size, or turn them to any shape that may be desu-ed. Throw them into boiling water, let them boil quickly for five minutes, then drain and dry them. If white tui-nip garnish is required, put the blanched turnips into a saucepan, cover with boiling stock, add a small lump of sugar and a little salt and cayenne, and let them simmer gently until they are tender without being broken. Let them remain in the stock till they are wanted. If brown turnip garnish is to be used, prepare the turnips, and blanch them as before. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, throw in the turnips, and shake them over a gentle fire till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and if not sufiiciently tender, stew them for a few minutes longer before serving. Time, about ten minutes to colour the turnips, twenty minutes to stew them. Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Turnips, Pried. Boil three or four turnips till they are three-parts dressed. Take iiihem up, drain them, cut them into slices, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned and quite tender. Drain them, and serve with fried or boiled cutlets. Or peel them and cut them into very thin slices. Let them lie in I cold water for an hour, and drain them. Disi solve a slice of butter in a stewpan, and in tliis steam a table-spoonful of choi)ped onion for five minutes. Put in the slices of tui-nip, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and let them steam till they are soft. A spoonful or two of water may be added if there is any fear that they will bum. Turnips, Giblets with {see Giblets with Turnips). Turnips, Glaces. Select a few fine turnips ; turn, in the shape of pears, a sufiicieut number to cover or to fill the dish ; stew them in a little broth with a httle sugar, which reduce to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. j When equally glazed, dish them ; take a spoon ' ful of Spanish sauce to detach the glaze that i remains in the stewpan, with a small bit of ' butter twice as big as a walnut, which work j with the sauce. Pour the sauce over the ! turnips after you have given it a good sea ! soning. Ude. j Turnips, Glazed, with Gravy. Pare I four or five large turnips, wash and di-ain them, j and cut them into slices of uniform size, or tui-n I them into a ball or pear shape. Dissolve in a I deep saucepan as much fresh butter as wiU I cover the bottom of the pan, throw in the tur i nips, and fry till they are brightly browned. j Drain the butter from them, and pour over I as much good stock as will cover them. Let them SLuimer gently until they are nearly tender. Remove the lid, put the saucepan over a quick fire, and let the sauce boil quickly until it begins to thicken. Take the tm-nips up, being careful not to break them, arrange neatly on a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the turnips. Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for four or five persons. Turnips, Glazed, with White or Brown Sauce. Take five or six small, ' sound, white turnips. Peel and wash them, i and turn them to the size and shape of toy I marbles. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a deep pan, and sprinkle an ounce of pounded sugar into it. Put in the turni JS, and fry till they are covered with glaze. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of good white or brown sauce, and let them simmer gently until tender. Season with pepper and salt. Arrange the turnips in a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. Turnips, Large, Stuffed. Boil whole four or five large turnips. Take them up, drain them, cut a slice from the top, and scoop out the middle. Beat the pulp which has been taken out with a little butter, flour, peijper, salt, and cream, and add the yolk of an egg. FiU the empty spaces with the mixture, put the tops on again, and brush them over with beaten egg. Brown them in a brisk oven, or before the fire, and serve very hot. Time to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Turnips, Mashed. Wash and pare the turnips, and throw them into cold water as TUR ( 1017 ) TUR they are done. Drain, and throw them into a siiucepan with slightly-salted boiling water. Keep them covered, and let them boil till tender. Drain them by placing them in a bowl and pressing a plate upon them to squeeze out the moisture. Mash well, and carefully remove any stringj portions there may be among them. If necessary, pass them through a colander. Mix with them a little pepper and salt, a slice of butter, and a table-spoonful or two of cream or milk. Stir the pulp over the iire luitil it is hot and quite dry. Serve very hot. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour to an lioiu- and a half. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient, one bunch for five or six persons. Turnips, Puree of. Pare and wash haK a dozen large sound turnips, and split them into halves, or even into quarters. Boil them till they are very tender, and press the water thoroughly from them. Pass them thi-ough a hair sieve, and put them back into the saucepan. Dredge a small quantity of floirr over them, and add a little white pepper and salt, a slice of butter, half a tea-spoonful of white sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream or milk. Stir them over the fire until they are quite dry and stiff. Serve the puree in the centre of a dish, and arrange cutlets, &c., neatly round it. Some cooks add a little grated nutmeg or a little powdered ginger to turnip pui'ee. Time to simmer with the cream, about ten minutes ; to boil, from three-quarters of an horn- to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Stewed (a la Fran aise). Peel and wash half a dozen turnips, and boil them in salted water till tender. Take them up, drain them, and in the water in which they have been boiled sinuner gently a cupful of bread-crumbs for five or six minutes. Wash the turnij s, and put them into another saucepan with the boiled bread and a little butter and pepper. Stir over a gentle fire tiU they are quite hot, and mix with them the yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of milk. Let them stew gently a minute or two longer, and serve very hot. Turnips prejiared thus are very good as an accompaniment to boiled mutton, veal, or poidtry. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half to boil the turnips. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips Stewed in Gravy. Pare and wash the turnips, and cut them into small square pieces, or turn them to the shape of balls or pears. Put them into a saucepan, pour over them as much boiling gra\'y as will cover them, and add a little salt and pepper and a small lump of sugar. Let them simmer gently until they are tender. Put them in a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour or more, according to age. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Turnips, White Puree of. If you want to make a verj' white puree, you must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling water, and di-ain and sweat them over a verj' slow fire in a little butter to prevent their I getting brown. When they are done enough, 1 add two or three spoonfuls of bechamel, strain ' them like a puree through a tamis, reduce, and serve surrounded with fried toasts of bread. If they are for entremets, the pm-ee must be thicker; if for garnishing entrees, richer and more tasty. Udc. Turnips with White Sauce. Prepare the turnips as before, stew them in gravj-, and when they are quite tender lift them out witiiout breaking them, di-ain them, and put them in a tureen. Have a tea-spoonful of arrowroot already mixed smoothly with a quarter of a l int of cream or milk. Mix the sauce gradually with this, put it back into the saucepan, and let it boil. Take it from the fire for a few minutes, stir half an ounce of cold butter into it : when this is dissolved pour the sauce over the turnips, and serve very hot. Time to stew the turnips, three-quarters of an hour or more, according to age and size. Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient, half a bunch of turnips for fom- or five persons. Turnips with White Sauce (another way). Cut them in the shape of pears or balls ; boil them in salt and water and butter, and when done enough drain them and serve with a white sauce, to which you may add a little mustard if approved of. Turnips, Young. Wash and peel a dozen young turnips, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of milk; add a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently. When they are half-dressed, put with them half an ounce of butter rolled in flour. Serve very hot. Time to simmer the turnips, about haK an hour. Turnips, Young, Stewed in Butter. Take two pounds of mild young turnips, cut them into small squares, or turn them to any shape that may be preferred. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan sufficiently large to hold the vegetables in a single layer. Put in the turnips, and simmer them very gently until they are tender without beingbroken. A few minutes before they are done enough, sprinkle a little salt and white pepper over them. Put them in the centre of a dish, and arrange fried or broiled cutlets neatly round them. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an hour to stew the turnips. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnovers. Make some good pastry, roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and stamp it in rounds from four to seven inches in diameter, lay fresh fruit and sugar, or jam, on one half of the pastry, moisten the edges, and turn the other half right over. Press the edges closely, ornament them in any way, and brush the turnovers with white of egg. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar over them, and bake on tins in a brisk oven. Serve on a dish covered with a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient, one pound of pastrjwill make two dozen turnovers. Turnovers (another \;&y). See also Fruifc Pasties or Tiu-novers. TUR ( 1018 ) TUB Turtle. The turtle, or sea tortoise, is found in most of the seas of warm climates. The green turtle is the variety used for making the celebrated turtle soup which forms such a noted feature of municipal feasts, hundreds of quarts heing served every year at the Lord Mayor's dinner. This soup is so expensive, and also so difficult to prepare, that it is seldom made in private houses; if it is wanted, it is bought ready-made, the cost being a guinea a quart. The turtles from which soup is made in England are sent ahve from the West Indies. They vary in weight from 30 pounds to 500 pounds, and in price from Is. to 2s. per pound, according to the state of the market. Many cooks use the tinned tui-tle instead of the live turtle. A small tin may be had for 8s. or 10s., with which six or eight quarts may be made. The most convenient way of making a small quantity of turtle soup is to use dried turtle, which may be bought of any respectable Italian warehouseman, at a cost of about lOs. per pound. The recipe for making it is given on p. 1020. Turtle Fish. Take equal quantities of fresh ling, haddock, or codling and of skate, cut the fish into neat slices, wash and clean them, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and stew them in good gravy thickened with flour and butter, and seasoned rather highly with salt and cayenne. Add the meat of a lobster and a dozen or more oysters with their liquor. A little wine may be added or not. Serve the preparation in a soup tureen. A couple of cods' sounds, stewed in spinach-juice till they are coloured green, and afterwards cut into neat squares and put into the gravy, may be added to the preparation, as an imitation of the green fat of the tm-tle. Time altogether, about tkree-quarters of an hour. Tvirtle, Mrs. Glasse's Recipe for Dressing. Dressing a turtle in the WestIndia way is thus described by ]\Irs. Glasse : Take the tirrtle out of the water the night before you intend to dress it, and lay it on its back ; in the morning cut its throat, and let it bleed weU ; then cut off the fins, scald, scale, and trim them with the head ; then raise the imder shell (the calipee) clean off, leaving to it as much meat as you conveniently can ; then take from the back shell all the meat and entrails except the monsieur, which is the fat, and looks green that must be baked to and with the shell. Wash all clean with salt and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate size, taking from it the bones, and put them with the fins and head into a soup pot with a gallon of water, some salt, and two blades of mace. Wlien it boils, skim it clean, then put io a bunch of thyme, parsley, savory, and young onions, and your veal part, except about one poimd and a half, which must be made forcemeat of, as for Scotch collops, adding a little cayenne pepper. When the veal has boiled in the soup about an hour, take it out, cut in pieces, and put it to the other part. The intestines (reckoned the best part) must be split open, scraped, and cleaned, and cut in pieces two inches long. The paunch or maw must be scalded and skinned, and cut as the other parts the size you think proper ; then put them w4th the other parts, except the liver, with half a pound of fresh butter, a few shallots, a bunch of thyme, parsley, and a little savory; season -with salt, white pepper, mace, three or four beaten cloves, and a little cayenne pepper ; let them stew about haK an hour over a clear fire, and put in a pint and a half of madeira wine and as much broth as will cover it, and let it stew tiU tender. It will take five hours doing. When almost done, skim it, and thicken it with some flour mixed with veal broth, about the thickness of a fiicassee. Let your forcemeat balls be fried about the size of a walnut, and stewed half an hour with the rest. If any eggs, let them be boiled and cleaned as you do knots of pullets' eggs ; and if none, get twelve or fourteen j olks of hard eggs. Then put the stew into the back shell (which is the calipash), with the eggs all over, and put it into the oven to brown, or do it with a salamander. The calipee must be slashed in several places, and modei-ately seasoned with pieces of butter, mixed with chopped thyme, parsley, young onions, salt, white pepper, beaten mace, and a little cayenne pepper ; put a piece on each slash, and then some over, and a dust of floui-; then bake it in a tin or iron dripping-pan in a brisk oven. The back shell (or calipash) must be seasoned as the calipee, and baked in a di-ipping-pan, set upright with four bnckbats or anything else. An hoxr and a half will bake it, which must be done before the stew is put in. The fins, when boiled very tender, to be taken out of the soup, and put into a stewpan, with some good veal gravy, not high-coloured, a little madeira wine, seasoned and thickened as the calipash, and served in a dish by itself. The lights, heart, and liver may be done in the same way, only a little higher seasoned ; or the lights and heart might be stewed with the calipash, and taken out before you put it in the shell, with some sauce, adding a little more seasoning, and dish bylitseK . The veal part may be made f ricandeaux or' Scotch coUops of. The liver should never be stewed. with the calipash, but always dressed TUR ( 1019 ) TUR ty itself, after the manner you like ; except you separate the lights and heart from the calipash, and then always serve them together in one dish. Take care to strain the soup, and serve it in a tureen or china bowl. The whole is placed on the table in dishes arranged as follows : Calipee. Lights, &c. I Soup. FLas. Calipash. N.B. Tn the AVest Indies they sometimes souse the fins and eat them cold, omit the liver, and only send to table the calipee, calipash, and soup. The foregoing description applies to a turtle of about sixty pounds weight. Turtle Sauce (to serve with calf's head). Thicken a pint of beef or veal gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, and flavour it with two table-spoonfuls of turtle store sauce and haK a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy. Let it boil, and it wiU be ready for serving. If the store sauce is not at hand, mince a shallot finely, and put it into the thickened gravy with half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, three or four leaves of fresh basil, the strained juice and thinly- cut rind of half a lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and a glassful of sherry. Simmer the sauce gently for a few minutes till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain through a fine sieve, and it will be ready for serving. Time to simmer the sauce, five or six minutes. Sufficient for eight or nine people. Turtle Soup. Before making tui-tle soup it is necessary to have several large pans and plenty of hot water ready for use. Take a turtle weighing about fifty pounds. Cut off the head, hang it up by the hind fins, 'and let it drain all night. Cut off the fins at the joints, and divide the calipash or upper shell from the calipee or lower shell by pressing heavily upon it and cutting round it about the depth of two inches. Let the water, &c., drain from it, and remove and throw away the intestines, carefully preserving, however, any fat that may be near them. Cut the flesh off along the spine, and let the knife slope towards the bones for fear of breaking the gall, which must on no account be allowed to touch the flesh, and which should be thrown quite away as soon as it is fovmd. Cut off aU the flesh from the members and let them drain. In cutting up the turtle remember to keep the green fat separate from the rest that its colour may be preserved. It is most highly priced by epicures. Throw the heart, lights, liver, and kidney into cold water. Put the calipash and calipee, the head and the feet, into a large vessel of boiling water, and let them simmer gently for a few minutes until the fins can be peeled and the shell scraped. Boil the back and the breast a little longer tiU the bones can be taken out. Cut out the soft meat, divide it into pieces an inch square, and place these in a single layer between two dishes to cool. Put the heart, liver, lights, and kidneys with the bones into a fresh saucepan, pour over them the stock in which the meat was blanched, and let them stew gently for three hours. Afterwards pour the liquor off and let it cool. Take a large clean saucepan. Put into it two pounds of lean ham cut small, twelve pounds of leg of veal broken up, and over these the fins, the head, and the inside flesh of the tui-tle. Pour over them some good stock, and let them simmer gently until the sauce is very much reduced. Push a skewer into the thick part of the meat, and when blood no longer exudes from the flesh add the liquor which was poui-ed off", and simmer all gently together until the meat is tender. Take it out, and set it aside. When the liquor from the bones is put into the stock the following ingredients may also be added. Two large handfuls of parsley, a large bunch of mixed sweet herbs thyme, marjoram, basil, and savory, an onion stuck with four cloves, three bay-leaves, and half a dozen mushrooms if obtainable. Simmer the soup till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it, set it aside, or, if preferred, rub the vegetables through a sieve. Dissolve haK a pound of butter in a stewpan. llix four table- spoonfuls of flour smoothly with it, and beat it ciuickly with the back of a wooden spoon over the fti-e until it is brightly browned. Add the liquor gradually, and let the soup boil. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and carefidly remove the fat, oU, and white scum which rise to the surface. Put the pieces of meat, which were put aside to cool, into the soup, let them simmer gently for an hour, and continue to remove the scum as it rises. Take four table-spoonfuls of parsley, four tablespoonfuls of minced shallot, one table-spoonful each of thyme, marjoram, savory, and sweet basil, a whole nutmeg grated, a blade of mace, a dozen allspice, f om- cloves, a table-spoonful of pepper and salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Put these seasoning ingredjcnts into a deUcatelyclean saucepan with four ounces of fresh butter, and let them simmer gently until the butter is dissolved, add a small lump of sugar, a pint or two of good madeira, and a little stock, and simmer them gently for an hour. Pub them through a fine sieve, and add the seasoning liquor to the soup. Let it boil again until no more scum rises. Put the quenelles, which are used as substitutes for tuitles' eggs, into the soup ten minutes before serving, and add the strained juice of one or two lemons just before sending the soup to table. When once turtle soup is made it should not be boiled in order to heat it, as this gives it a strong taste, but it should be warmed in a bain marie. To make the quenelles for the soup, nee Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Quenelles for. Time, several hours. Turtle soup should always be made the day before it is wanted. Probable cost, ?1 Is. per quart. Sufficient, one quart for six or seven persons. Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Quenelles for. Take a quarter of a pound of breadcrumbs, soak them in milk for a short time, and afterwards wring them in a cloth to squeeze the moisture from them. Take a quarter of a pound of lean veal from the fillet, scrape it into pieces with a knife, pound it in a marble mortar till it is quite smooth, and rub it through a sieve, ilix it with the bread-crumbs, and add half an ounce of butter, a salt-spoon TUB ( 1020 ) TUB fill of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of choi ped parsley, and half a nutmeg grated. Pound these ingredients together till they are thoroughly mixed and quite smooth, then add the yolks of three eggs boiled hard and the yolks of two raw eggs. Dredge a little flour on the table, and roll out the preparation. Make it into balls the size of a small nutmeg, throw these into boiling water slightly salted, and let them boil tiU they are hard. Drara them on a sieve, and put them into the soup a few minutes before serving. They are supposed to represent the eggs of the turtle. Time to boil, six minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient, one forcemeat ball for each g-uest. Turtle Soup from Dried Turtle Plesh. Three or four days before the soup is wanted, buy a quarter of a pound of di-ied turtle flesh. Soak it in lukewarm water three days and three nights. Change the water every twelve houi's, and if a slightly unpleasant odourarises from the flesh, rub it lightly over with salt. WTiilst the soaking process is going on keep the basin containing the tui-tle in a warm place, and dui-ing the night let it stand in a cool oven. For the last twelve hours let the water in which it is soaked be of a good ?wai-mth. When the meat has been soaked tUl it has lost its gluey appearance, and is swollen and comparatively soft, cut it into neat pieces two inches square, and boil it gently for twelve hours in strong stock prepared as follows: Put a slice of lean, undressed ham into a gallon saucepan with a pound and a half of gravy beef, a pound and a half of knuckle of veal, two onions, each one with three cloves stuck into it, a head of celery, a small tumip and carrot, as much parsley as will fill a teacup, three tea-spoonfuJs of dried marjoram, three tea-spoonfuls of dried basil, one or two mushrooms if they are at hand, half a tea-spoonful of lemon thyme, half a salt-spoonful of pennyroyal, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and a small jjinch of cayenne. If any chicken bones or pieces of cold roast meat are at hand they may be added to the rest. Fill the saucepan with cold water, simmer the soup very gently for twelve hours, and remove the scum as it rises. The soup must on no account be left in the saucepan all night ; but if the simmering is not finished at night, the soup must be poured out into a basin, set in a cool place, and put on the fire again next day. "When the soup has been reduced to two quarts, strain carefully, and remove the fat with scrupulous care. Get a pound and a haK of fresh eels, cut them into pieces two inches long, and boil these in the stock. When they are tender, lift them out of the stock, and again strain it by passing it through a jelly-bag two or three times; if necessary, clear it with white of egg. When it is clear put in the pieces of turtle flesh, and lx)il them gently till they are as tender as welldressed calf's head. At the last moment add a claret-glassful of good madeira or good golden sherry. Pour the soup into the tureen, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and it will be ready for serving. If it is necessary to clarify the soup, whisk the white of an egg with a cupful of cold water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it is just warm, let it boil, and gently lift oft' the scum as it rises. Draw the saucejjau to the side, and let the soup simmer gently for half an houi'. Let it stand a quarter of an hour to settle, and strain through a jelly-bag. If the soup has been gently simmered and carefully skimmed, it wiU most likely need only to be passed two or thi-ee times through a jelly-bag. If thick souj) is prefen-ed to clear soup, moisten a table-sjMonf ul of brown thickening with a small portion of the soup. When it is quite smooth, pour it into the saucepan, and stir till it boils. AVhen this thickening is used, it will be necessary to let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire with the lid on for a short time, that the fat may rise to the surface and be removed. The eels which are stewed in the stock may be served as eel souchet, and will make a good dish. As the pieces of eel are taken out of the soup, throw them into a pan of boiling water for one minute. Lay them into a dish with as much boihng water as will cover them, put with them one or two sprigs of fresh parsley, and send brown bread and butter to table \'ith them. Time, four or five days to prepare the soup. Probable cost, turtle flesh, 10s. per pound. Sufficient for three pints of soup. Tvirtle Soup from Tinned Turtle, When the turtle is not sent alive to its destination, it is killed as soon as it is caught, put into tins hermetically sealed, and then used for making soup. In this case the stock should be prepared and seasoned as for tm-tle soup, and the tinned meat, which is in a jelly, should be cut up and stewed in the stock. Turtle soup thus prepared requu-es to be seasoned rather highly, and a few mushrooms or truffles should be used in the flavoui'ing, in order to take away the taste of the tin. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six quarts of soup. Turtle Soup, Mock. Put into a large pan or jar a knuckle of veal, two well-cleaned cow-heels, two onions, a few cloves, a little allspice, mace, and some sweet herbs, cover all with two and a half quarts of water, and set it in a hot oven for three hours. Then remove it, and when cold take off the fat verj' nicely; take away the bones and coarse parts, and when required "put the remainder on the fire to warm with a table-spoonful of moist sugar, two of walnut, and one of mushroom ketchup ; add to these ingredients the jeUy of the meat. When it is quite hot, put in the forcemeat baUs, and add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way). Take half a calf's head, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, two table-spoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme, a little sweet marjoram and basil, two onions, a few chopped mushrooms, two shallots, two table-spoonfuls of flour, one dozen and a half forcemeat balls about the size of a nutmeg, cayenne and salt to suit your taste, the juice of one lemon, a Seville orange, one dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and three quarts of best stock. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way). Take half a calf's head with the skin on, TUR ( 1021 ) TUB, Eemove the brains, and lay them aside ; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in cold spring water for an hour. Put it into a stewpan, cover with cold water, let it boil gently for an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Cut the meat from the bones, and divide it with the tongue into small neat squares of about an inch. Let these cool, put them into a saucepan, cover with two quarts of stock, and let them boil gently until they are tender without being overdone. Melt four ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put in three ounces of lean, undressed ham cut into dice, a sHced carrot, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a table -spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, of which two-fifths shall be sweet marjoram, two-fifths basil, and one-fifth thyme, two chopped onions, and one or two chopped mushrooms when thej' are to be had. Stir these over the fire for two or three minutes, then pour over them a pint of stock, and let them simmer gently for two hoiirs. Moisten two table-spoonfuls of flour with a little cold stock, and add this to the seasoning stock. Let it boil; add the remainder of the stock, and rub the soup through a fine hair sieve. Put it back into the saucepan with the pieces of mea , boiL aU gently together for a few minutes, add a glassful of wine, a table-spoonful of lemon- juice, and salt and pepper if required. Have the forcemeat balls ready prepared, put them into the tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve very hot. Time, six or seven hours. Probable cost, calf's head, uncertain. Suflicient for a dozen persons or more. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way). See Calf's Head, Mock Turtle Soup of; and also Mock Turtle Soup. Turtle Soup, Mock, Brain Balls for. Wash the brains in two or three waters, and free them from skin and fibre. Throw them into boiling water, and let them boil for ten minutes. Take them up, and put them into cold water for a minute or two. Afterwards drain them, and pound them in a mortar with a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, or a httle savory, or lemon thyme, and pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg, make it up into small balls the size of a child's marble, dip these twice into beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, and add them to the soup. Time, two or three minutes to fry the balls. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity, exclusive of the trains. Suflicient, one brain ball to each guest. Turtle Soup, Mock, Clear. Prepare, soak, and parboil the head as in last recipe but one. Cut the meat into neat squares, and set it aside, simmer the herbs and vegetables in a pint of stock for two hours, and afterwards strain it through a tamis instead of rubbing it through a sieve. Add it to the rest of the stock, and clarify this by stirring into it when cool the whites of two eggs mixed with a little water, whisking it over the fire till it boils, boiling gently for half an hour, letting it stand to settle for a quarter of an hour, then straining it through a jelly-bag till it is clear. Put the pieces of calf's head into the soup, boil them gently till tender, add a glassful of good wine and a Httle lemon-juice, and serve very hot. A few quenelles should be served with the soup. Time, six or seven hours. Turtle Soup, Mock, Curry Balls for. Rub a piece of butter the size of a walnut into a handful of finely-grated breadcrimibs, and add the yolk of an egg boiled hard. Pound the mixture in a mortar to a smooth paste, season with curry powder, and make it up into small balls the size of a nutmeg. Throw these into boiHng water till firm, drain and serve them in the soup. Time to boil, two minutes. Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient, at least one ball should be served to each guest. Turtle Soup, Mock (easy way of making a small quantity). Take some stock made from bones or the Hquor in which meat has been boiled. Boil it with fresh vegetables, herbs, and spices till it is pleasantly flavoured, and strain carefuUy. Procure a tin of mock turtle soup. Boil this up with a little more than an equal quantity of the flavoui-ed stock. When it is quite hot throw a claret-glassful of madeira or good sherry into it, and serve very hot with one or two cut lemons on a dish. The mixture of the stock made from fresh vegetables with the preserved soup will correct the slight taste of the tin which is the only objection which can be urged against it, and when a small quantity only of soup is required it will save time, trouble, and expense to make it in this way, rather than to prepare it at home. When there is no stock in the house, the vegetables and seasoning may be boiled in water, but of course the soup will not be so good as if stock were used. Time, one hour to Savour the stock. Probable cost, a tin of mock turtle. Is. SuflBcient for five or six persons. Turtle Soup, Mock, Egg Balls for. Boil four eggs tUl they are hard. Put them into cold water, and when they are cold pound the yolks in a mortar with a tea-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Moisten the mixture with the yolk of a raw egg. Form it into balls the size of a small nutmeg, throw these into boihng water, let them boil for two minutes, drain them on a sieve, and serve in the soup. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Suflicient, one egg ball should be served to each guest. Tiirtle Soup, Mock (made with calf s head). This soup should be prepared the day before it is wanted. Take half a calf's head, fresh and with the skin on . Eemove the brains, wash the head in several waters, and afterwards let it soak in cold water for an hour. Put it in a stewpan, pour over it a gallon of cold stock made from bones, and let it simmer very gently for an hour. As the scum rises remove it carefuUy. Take up the head, and let it get partly cold; then cut the meat from the bones, and divide it and the tongue into pieces an inch and a quarter square. Be careful that the skin, which is a most valuable TITR ( 1022 ) TUB part, is cut up with the fat. Lay these pieces to get cold between two dishes, the bottom one of which should be laid upside down. Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a stewpan. Cut a large onion into slices, and fry these in the butter tUl they are brightly browned. Pour over them the stock in which the head was boiled, add the bones and trimmings, and simmer the soup, carefully removing the scum until no more rises. Put in with it some outer sticks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with four cloves, a handful of parsley, a sprig of marjoram, basil, and savory, a very small sprig of lemon thyme, one or two sageleaves, half a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little salt and pepper if required. Simmer gently for an hour and a half, and strain the soup through a tamis. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a clean saucepan, and mix three ounces of ilour smoothly with it. Stir over a brisk fire till it is brightly browned, and moisten by adding, very gradually, a pint of the stock. Let it simmer gently for half an hour, then add the thickening to the soup. Put the pieces of head into the stewpan, and let them simmer gently xmtn the meat is quite tender, but it must not be overdone. It will need from half an hour to an hour. Add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a claret-glassful of good madeira or sherry. Have ready prepared quenelles or forcemeat balls, as for turtle soup, brain balls, or egg balls. Put them into the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot. Time, eight to nine hours. Probable cost, calf's head varies in price from 2s. 6d. to 6s. or 8s., according to the time of year : it is most expensive at Christmas. Sufficient for two quarts of soup. Tiirtle Soup, Mock (made with cow heel). Wash, scjild, and thoroughly cleanse a cow heel, spht it in halves, and put it into a large stewpan with three-pennj-worth of fresh bones broken into small pieces, six oimces of lean undressed ham, or a large piece of baconrind, thi-ee onions, three can-ots, a turnip, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bayleaves, two cloves, six allspice, eight peppercorns, a pinch of cayenne, three sage-leaves, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Pour over these ingredients a gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for six hours. Take out the cow heel, remove the bones, and press the meat between two dishes. Let the soup simmer another hour with the bones and trimmings; strain it, poiu* it out, let it stand untU cold, and remove the fat from the top. Cut the meat into neat squares, and dredge a little flour over them. Fry in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned, then drain them on a sieve. Dissolve four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and stir into this three table-spoonfuls of flonr, a teaspsonful of curry-powder, and a tea-spoonful of dry mustard. Beat this mixture with the back of a wooden spoon, moisten with half a pint of soup, and add a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. BoiJ for twenty minutes, strain, and mix it with the rest of the stock. Put in the pieces of meat, and simmer them gently till they are heated thi-ough ; add a glassful of sherry or madeii-a, a dessert - spoonful of lemon -juice, put some quenelles into the tureen; pour the soup over, and serve immediately. Time, eight hours. Probable cost, cow heels, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for a dozen persons or more. Turtle Soup, Mock (made with pig's head). Take half a pig's head, scald it thoroughly, and put it into a saucepan with three quarts of good, nicely-flavoured stock made from bones. Let it simmer gently for an hour and a half; take it up, let it partially cool, cut the meat into neat squares, and lay these between two dishes, the bottom one being placed upside down to keep the meat from curling. Put the bones and trimmings of the head back into the saucepan, and let them s im mer an hour longer with a couple of bayleaves, and a little more seasoning, should the stock require it, and be very careful to remove the scimi as it rises. Pour out the soup, let it remain until the next day, and then take the cake of fat from the top. 'Thicken with brown thickening, and after it has boiled let it simmer by the side of the fire, and as the fat is thrown up, remove it. When no more rises, put in the pieces of meat. Let them boil gently till tendex", add a glassful of sherry and a pinch of cayenne, and serve very hot. Mock turtle soup made with pig's head is frequently objected to, because it so frequently tastes greasy. Consequently gi-eat care should be taken to get rid of the fat. This can only be done by making the soup the day before it is wanted, so that it can be poured out, and when cold the cake of fat can be taken from the top. As even after this a great deal of fat may be held in solution in the soup, the liquor should be boiled again in a covered saucepan, and afterwards simmered gently by the side of the fire, and the fat removed as it is thrown up. The stock for this soup may be made as foUsws : Procure threepennyworth of fresh bones. Wash them well, and break them into small pieces. Put them into a large saucepan, and pour over them fourquarts of cold water. Add a large carrot, a turnip, three onions (one of them stuck ??ath three cloves), a handful of parsley, four allspice, half a blade of mace, a sprig of marjoi-am and basil, a veiy small sprig of lemon thj-me, eight peppercorns, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, and a little salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, di'aw it to the side, and let it simmer gently for five hours. Strain it, and it will be ready for the pig's head. Quenelles should be served in the soup. Time, eight or nine hours. Probable cost, pig's head, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a dozen people. Turtle Quenelles for Tm-t Soup, Quenelles for {see tie So Soup) . Turtle Soup, To Heat. When turtle soup is bought already prepared from the confectioner, which is the plan usually adopted in private houses, it should be heated as follows : ? Cover closely the jar containing the soup, put it into a pan of boiling water, and let the soup boil gently imtil it is quite hot; turn it into TUB ( 1023 ) UDD a tureen, stir into it a claret-glassful of good madeira or sherry, and serve immediately. A spoonful of lemon-juice may be added if Uked, and if it is not put into the soup, a dish containing one or two lemons cut in halves may bo served with the soup, so that the juice may be added at the discretion uf the guests. Turtle Store Sauce (for flavouring hashes, stews, and sauces). Put an ounce and a half of very thinly-peeled lemon-rind, half an ounce of good cui-ry powder, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne into a large bottle, and pour over them a small tumblerful of basil wine, half the quantity of mushroom ketchup, six table-spoonfuls of shallot wine, and four tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Add two drachms of concrete lemon acid, cover the bottle to keep out the dust, and let the ingredients infuse for eight or ten days. Strain and filter the liquor, then bottle it : it will prove useful for flavouring purposes. Time, ten days. Sufficient, two table-spooniuls of this essence wUl flavour a pint of sauce. Twelftll Cake. A twelfth cake, or any important cake, if made at home, will requii-e care, attention, and good materials. If these are given, and the following recipe attended to, the result can scarcely faU to be satisfactory, and a considerable saving may be eft'ectod, compared with what the same cake would have cost if bought at a confectioner's. Before beginning to mix the cake all the ingredients should be prepared, the flour dried and sifted, the currants washed, di-ied, and picked, the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded, the candied fruit cut into thin sHces, the almonds bruised with orangeflower or rose water, but not to a paste, the sugar sifted, and the eggs thoroughly whisked, yolks and whites separately. Care should be taken to make the cake and to keep the fruit in a warm place, and, unless the weather is very warm, to whisk the eggs in a pan set in another containing hot water. To make the cake, put two pounds of fresh butter into a large bowl, and beat it with the hand to a smooth cream : then add two pounds of powdered sugar, a large nutmeg grated, and a quarter of an ounce each of powdered cinnamon, powdered mace, powdered ginger, and powdered allspice. Beat the mixture for ten minutes, add gradually twenty eggs, and beat the cake for twenty minutes. Work in two pounds of flour, fom- poimds of currants, half a pound of bruised almonds, half a pound each of candied orange, candied lemon, and candied citron, and, last of all, a claretglassful of brandy, and beat the cake lightly between every addition. Line a baking-hoop with doubled paper weU buttered, pour in the mixture, and be careful that it does no more than three-parts fill it, that there may be room for the cake to rise. Cover the top with paper, set the tin on an inverted plate in the oven to keep it from burning at the bottom, and bake in a slow but well-heated oven. When it is nearly cold, cover it as smoothly as possible with sugaricing three-quarters of an inch thick {see Frost or Icing for Cakes). Ornament with fancy articles of any kind, with a high ornament in the centre : these may frequently be hired of the confectioner. In order to ascertain whether the cake is done enough, plunge a bright knife into the centre of it, and if it comes out bright and clear the cake is done. A cake of this description will, if properly made, and kept in a cool dry place, keep for twelve months. If cut too soon it will crumble and fall to pieces. It will be at its best when it has been kept four months. Time to bake, four houi-s and a half. Probable cost, 12s. for this quantity. Twelfth. Cake (another way). The following is an old recipe : Seven pounds of fine flour, two pounds and a half of the freshest butter, seven pounds of currants prepared as before directed, two large nutmegs grated, half an ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of cloves pounded to fine powder, a pound of sifted lump sugar, the yolks of sixteen and the whites ?f twelve eggs, and a pint and a half of the very best distiUer's yeast. Warm as much cream as -sviU wet this mass, and add as much sweet malmsey or mountain wine as will give it the consistence of batter. Beat, not too fine, a pound of sweet almonds bleached ; rub them with some of the sweet wine and orange-flower water ; then add, and beat also, half a pound each of candied lemon, citron, and orange-peel. Let the whole be well mixed, and put the cake into a hoop with a thick paste of floixr and water under it in order to preserve the bottom from scorching. Ice it the moment it is drawn from the oven. Twelfth. Cake, Lady Caroline Lamb's. Quarter of a peck of pure flour carefully dried, three pounds of cui-rants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, half a poimd of refined sugar, quarter of a pound of sweet and half an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and sliced, two ounces of orange and two ounces of candied lemon-peel, and spices according to taste, ilix aU thoroughly; then take one pint of cream, and put to it three-quarters of a povmd of fresh butter washed first in pure and afterwards in rose-water ; place in a gentle heat. Beat up the white and yolks, separately, of six eggs, and the yolks only of six more. Add to them a little rose-water, two table- spoonfuls of cardamom brandy, half a glassful of old Ehenish, hock, or champagne, quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, and a little fine salt. Mix the liquids together, strain them, add the dry materials warm, and mix the whole into a light smooth batter. Place it before a fire for twenty minutes to rise, butter your hoop, and use what flour is necessary to make the cake sufliciently stiff. Set it in the oven with some sheets of brown paper well floured to prevent its burning. In about a couple of hours it wiU be done. Ice it in the usual manner, and stick any ornaments you choose upon the icing before it is drJ u Udder, Beef. Beef udder may be gently simmered in broth or water, then sliced, and served with onion or tomato sauce. If liked, it may be put in salt for a couple of days before being boiled. Salted udder should be eaten cold, and ?inegar and oil should be sent to table ?ndth it. UDD ( 1024 ) USQ TTdder, Calf's, for Forcemeat. Put the udder into a saucepan vnth as much broth or water as will cover it. Let it boil gently till it is thoroughly done. When cold trim away the upper parts, and pound it in a mortar till it can be passed through a sieve. The pulp will then be ready for putting into French forcemeat. Butter may always be substituted for udder in making forcemeat. Udder, Fresh Neat's Tongue and. These may be roasted together. WTien ready for serving, put half a pint of gravy into a saucepan, with the juice of a Se\ille orange, a glassful of claret, two lumps of sugar, and a piece of butter ; toss these ingredients over the fire, and serve with the tongue and udder. Garnish with slices of lemon. The udder should be stuck with cloves, and both it and the tongue should be continually basted. Unfermented Bread. Fermented bread is sometimes considered unwholesome. Those who are of this opinion may make their bread as follows: Mix one ounce of bicarbonate of soda with eight pounds of flour. Stir one ounce of hydrochloric acid with four pints of warm water. Stir the liquor into the flouibriskly, and with a wooden spoon, till the ingredients are thoroughly blended ; divide the dough into loaves, and bake these immediately in a brisk oven. It will need to bake as long as bread usually does. TJnground Corn Soup (a German recipe). Take a breakfast-cupful of wheat, and put it into a stewpan with two ounces of butter. Stir tiU the butter is melted. Add water, and let aU simmer till the com is quite soft. Season with salt and pepper, adding parsley, cher\'il, or any other herb, finely minced. Place yolks of eggs in the tureen, grate in a little nutmeg, and pour in the boiling soup. United States Pudding. Boil threequarters of a pint of new milk with three ounces of fresh butter and half a tea-cupful of sugar. Stir in six ounces of Oswego, pour the pudding into a bowl, and beat it briskly for some minutes. When it is almost cold, mix with it first the yolks, and afterwards the wellwhisked whites of four eggs. Butter a puddingbasin, and fill it with alternate layers of tiie corn-flour paste thus prepared and jam, and let paste constitute the uppermost and undermost layers. Lay a round of oiled paper on the top of the pudding, and steam it over fast-boiling water till done enough. If preferred, the pudding may be baked in a brisk oven, instead of being steamed. Serve with wine or brandy sauce in a tureen. Time to steam the pudding, one hour ; to bake it, three-quarters of an hour. Universal Store Sauces for Flavouring Gravies, &C. Put two table-spoonfuls of port into a bottle with the same quantity of lemon pickle, chilli vinegar, mushrooni and walnut pickle, and one table-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Shake the mixture, and it wiU be ready for use. If preferred, shallot vinegar may be iised instead of lemon pickle. Another excellent store sauce for flavouring gravies may be made as follows : Put half a pint of ketchup into a bottle with a table-spoonful of port, a tea-spoonful of shallot vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered allspice, one ounce of salt, and a little pepper and cayenne. Put the bottle in a warm place for some hours ; keep it for a week, then strain and bottle for use. University Pork Sausages. To a couple of pounds of lean pork, young, white, and delicate, put three quarters of a pound of minced beef suet the pork must first be chopped very fine. Add three dessert-spoonfuls of bread which has been dipped in port wine, dried, and grated fine. Work it together with the yolks of three eggs smoothly beaten ; season with pepper and salt and dried sage a very little cayenne may be introduced, and a I'fj- small piece of garlic. Work the whole weU together in a mortar until it forms a paste ; it may then be put into wide skins, or pressed down into jars for future use. It is cut into square pieces, dredged with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on a toast as a breakfast dish. Upton Pudding. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and put into it a tea-cupful of largegrained sago. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar and a little grated lemon or nutmeg. Nearly fill the dish with boiling water (milk is better if it is to be had). Pare and core two large apples, and slice them into the pudding ; place a lump of butter upon it, and bake in a gentle oven. This pudding may be eaten cold or hot. Time to bake the pudding, about two hours. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Usquebach, Irish. This was originally a liqueur a compound spirit made with spices. Among other recipes for its manufacture is the following : Take of nutmegs, cloves, and cinnamon each two ounces ; of the seeds of anise, caraway, and coriander, each four ounces ; sUced liquorice, half a pound. Bruise the seeds and spices, and put them, together with the liquorice, into a stiU with eleven gallons of proof spirits and two gallons of water. Distil with a pretty fresh fire till the "faints" begin to rise. As soon as the liquor comes over, fix some saffron to the end of the worm, that the Hqueur may pass through it and extract its tincture. Soften the whole with sugar. Usquebach, Irish (another way). Digest the following ingredients for a fortnight in five gallons of French brandy nutmegs, cassia, cinnamon, angelica-root, hay-saflEi-on, rhubarb, of each one ounce ; mace, cloves, lesser cardamom-seeds, of each two drachms; liquorice-root, three ounces; coriander-seeds, aniseed, turmeric-root, caraway-seeds, of each one ounce. Usquebach (Meg Dod's recipe). To two quarts of the best brandy, or whislcy without a smoky or any peculiar flavour, put a pound of stoned raisins, half an ounce of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same quantity of cardamoms, aU bruised in a mortar ; the rind of a Seville orange rubbed off on lumps of sugar, a little tincture of saffron, and half a pound of brown sugar-candy. Shake the UTE ( 1025 ) VAN infusion every day for a fortnight, and filter it for use. Not a drop of water must be put to this cordial. It is sometimes tinged of a pale green with the juice of spinach instead of the Siiffi-on tint being imparted to it. Utensils, Kitchen {sec Appendix). Uxbridge Plum Pudding (excellent). Shred a haH-pound of suet very finely, mix with it half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of mashed potatoes, half a pound of grated carrots, three-quarters of a pound of picked and di-icd currants, two ounces of minced candied peel, and a little grated nutmeg. JMix the ingredients thoroughly. Press them into a buttered basin or mould which they will quite fill, cover the mould with a saucer, and tie it tightly in a cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. A quarter of an hour before the pudding is wanted take it up, and before turning it out of the basin put it into the oven. This will remove any moisture it may have acquired in boiling, and cause it to turn out better. Send brandy or wine sauce to table -wnth it. Time to boil the pudding, fully six hours. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. V Vacherin for Sweet Creams. Take half a pound of sweet almonds and half a pound of white sugar. Blanch, peel, and poimd the almonds, add the sugar, and moisten the mixture to a stiff paste with white of egg. Sprinkle some powdered sugar on a pastry-board, and roll the almond paste upon it a quarter of an inch thick. Talie a plain mould about six inches in diameter, line the sides with a band of paste one and a half inches deep, and join the ends securely together with white of egg. Stamp out a round of the paste a little larger than the bottom of the mould. Bake both in a gentle oven. When the paste is dry take it out of the oven, remove the band from the mould, and stick it upon the round. Put the case again in the oven, let it remain till it becomes slightly coloured, then let it get quite cold. When wanted, fill it with any nicelyflavoured whipped cream, piling the cream as high as possible. Valentia Wine. Put a quart of rum and a quart of unsweetened gin into a jar. Add three quarts of cold water, three pints of boiling milk, one pound and a half of loaf sugar broken into small pieces, the thin rind and strained juice of nine lemons, six cloves, an inch of stick cinnamon, an inch of whole ginger, one large niitmeg grated, and a pennyworth of safltron tied in muslin. Stir the mixture briskly for a few minutes, cover closely, and let it remain untouched for three hours. Pass it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and bottle for use. This wine may be used at once. Vanilla. Vanilla is a plant which grows in tropical America, the fruit of which is remarkable for its fragrant odour and delicious flavour. Vanilla may be bought by weight, but the 70 essence is the form in which generally used. imlla ic most VANILLA. (Vanilla Aromatica.) Showing Flower and Aromatic Seed-Capstiles. Vanilla and Currant Bombe. Take equal quantities of vanilla cream ice and red currant water-ice. Line a bombe mould with currant water-ice an inch thick. Fill the centre with vanilla cream ice, close the mould, and put it in ice till it is firmly set. Turn it out just before it is wanted, and cut it in slices convenient for serving. Dish these on a napkin. _ Vanilla Cream. Soak an ounce of gelatine in cold water for half an hour. Break a pod of vanilla into small pieces, and soak these in a pint of boiling milk till the latter is pleasantly and rather strongly flavoured. Add six ounces of powdered sugar and the wellbeaten yolks of four or six eggs. Put this custard into a jug, set it in a saucepan of water, and stir it imtil it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Drain and add the gelatine, stirring the custard o? the fire ; the heat of the custard will dissolve it. Pour the cream into an oUed mould, and set it in a cool place tUl stiff. If liked, this cream may be enriched by the addition of a pint of whipped cream, which should be stirred lightly into the mixture after the gelatine is dissolved. When this addition is made, two additional eggs and another half-ounce of gelatine will be required. The essence, instead of the pod of vanilla, may be used to flavour the cream. Time, about ten minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost, if made without cream, Is. lOd. Sufiicient for nearly a quart of cream. Vanilla Cream {sec Cream, Vanilla). Vanilla, Cream Whipped with {see Cream Whipped with Vanilla). Vanilla Custard. Cut half a pod of vanilla in pieces, and let it soak for an hour in a pint of rnilk or cream. Stir four table-spoonfuls of sugar into it, and when this is dissolved add the well-beaten yolks of two, four, or six eggs. Put the custard in a bowl, and set this over a saucepan of boiling water. Keep VAN ( 1026 ) VEA stirring one way till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir occasionally till it is cold, and serve in a glass dish or in custard cups. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and pile this on the custard at the moment of serving. Sift a little white sugar upon the custard, and it wiU be ready for the table. If liked, essence of vanilla may be used instead of the pod. Probable cost, if made with milk. Is. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of custard. Time, ten to ftfteen minutes to make the custard. Vanilla Custard Pudding. Flavour a pint of milk by soaking a quarter of a pod of vanilla in it for some time. Mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly with a little cold milk. Boil the flavoured milk, and stir it into the floitr a little at a time. Strain it, let it cool, add sugar to taste, and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered mould. Lay an oiled paper on the top, tie the pudding in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes after it is taken up before turning it out. Put it on a dish, garnish with preserved fruit, and pour dissolved fruit jelly round it. If liked, the pudding may be steamed instead of being boiled, and essence of vanilla may be used instead of the pod. Time to boil the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost, Is., without the sauce. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vanilla Custard Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Boat an egg, and stir half a pint of milk into it. Add sugar to taste and six or seven drops of vanilla flavouring. The quantity should be regulated by the strength of the preparation. Put the mixture into a saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir one way till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Serve in a tiu-een with any kind of dry, boiled pudding. Time, about eight minutes to thicken the custard. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 4d. Vanilla lee Cream. Poxmd half a pound of vanilla, and mix with it half a pound of sugar. Rub it through a hair sieve, and add half a pint of milk and the yolks of two eggs. Simmer the mixture over a slow fire for ten minutes, stirring briskly all the time. "WTien cool, add a pint of cream and the strained juice of one lemon. Freeze in the usual way. Time, ten minutes to simmer the custard. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufiiciont for a quart of ice cream. Vanilla Lozenges. Mix four ounces of powdered vanilla with an ounce and a quarter of powdered white sugar. Add as much gum tragacanth as will malce a stiff paste. Form the mixture into lozenges. Or put half a pound ' of coarse sugar into a small sugar-boiler with an ounce of water and a few drops of essence of vanilla. Stir the mixture with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire till it has become liquid and is on the point of simmering. Take it off the fire, stir it a few minutes longer, and drop it upon slightly-oiled baking-sheets. Let the drops get cold, then remove them with the point of a sharp knife. Vanilla Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Boil a quarter of an inch of vanilla and a tablo-spoonl'ul of sugar in a quarter of a piat of water for ten minutes. Mix a dessertspoonful of arrowroot to a smooth paste with a spoonful of cold water. Strain the boiling syi'up upon it, and stir the sauce tUl it is smooth. Add half a wine-glassful of brandy, and serve. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. Vanilla Souffle. Take three oimces of dried flour. IMix it to a smooth paste with two or three table-spoonfuls of cold milk, and add additional milk to make up the quantity to three-quarters of a piat. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a few di'ops of vanilla essence. The quantity must be regulated by the strength of the essence. Stir the milk briskly over the fire till it boils and is quite smooth. Strain it into a bowl, and when it is cool add the weU-beaten yolks of thi'ee eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, mix them lightlj- with the batter, and half fiU a buttered dish with the mixture. Put it into a moderately-heated oven, and turn it about occasionally that it may be equally baked. When done enough, sift powdered sugar upon it, and serve at once or it will be spoilt. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vanilla Sponge Cake. Cut half a pound of vaniUa into small pieces, tie it in mushn, and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of water and four ounces of refined sugar. Let it simmer to a clear syrup, then take out the bag of fiavouring, and stir tUl it is cool. Beat the whites of three eggs to froth, stii- them into the sjTup, add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and lastly, and very gradually, six ounces of diied and sifted flour. Pour the mixture immediately into a buttered mould, and bake ia a brisk oven. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Vauxhall Nectar. This old-fashioned liqueur may be successfully imitated by dissolving one scruple of flowers of Benjamin (otherwise known as flowers of benzoin, and benzoic acid) in a pint of good rum. The liqueur may be used immediately. Veal. Veal is best when the animal is from two to three months old. The flesh of the bull caK is the most suitable for joints, being of a firmer grain. That of the cow calf is the best for made-dishes. The fiUct of the cow calf is generally preferred, because it has the udder. The finest calves have the smallest kidneys, and when the veal is good these are well covered with fat. Veal, like all young meat, has a tendency to turn very quicklj'. It is both impalatablo and most unwholesome when it is at all tainted, and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats sometimes are, by the use of charcoal. Therefore it ought not to be kept more than two days in summer and four in winter. If eaten quite fresh it is apt to bo a little tough. To assist it ia keeping, the pipe should be removed from the loin as soon as the veal comes VEA ( 1027 ) VEA from the butcher. The skirt also should bo taken at once from the breast, the inside scraped and wiped, and dredged with flour. If there is any danger of the veal becoming tainted, wash it, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water tiU cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest place that can be found. Although veal can be obtained all the year round, it is best from May to September. No meat is more generally useful for making soups and gravies than veal. The flesh ia rather indigestible. The head, CALF, JOINTING OF. Mdneys, and sweetbreads, are considered great delicacies. The feet contain a good deal of nourishment. Veal is cut up as follows: 1, Loin (kidney end). 2, Loin (chump end). 3, Fillet. 4, Hind-knuckle. 5, Fore-knuckle. 6, Neck (best end). 7, Scrag. 8, Blade-bone. 9, Breast (best end). 10, Brisket. 11, Head. To these joints must be added the pluck, which includes the liver, lights, heart, sweetbreads, of which one is called the throat sweetbread, and is the largest of the two ; the other the windpipe sweetbread. The pluck includes the heart, liver, lights, nut, melt, skirt, throat, and sweetbread. The udder or firm white fat of the fillet is used by French cooks for forcemeats. Veal should be thoroughly done. When underdressed it is unwholesome, and should be avoided. Veal (a. la Bourgeoise) . Take about three pounds of the fillet, loin, or neck of veal. Cut it into neat pieces, and fry these in a little butter till they are brightly browned on both sides. Add two slices of lean bacon, three carrots, three onions (each with a clove stuck in it), a lai'ge bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Pom* over all as much boiling stock or water as will barely cover the ingredients, and simmer all together very gently until the meat is done enough. Take it out, skim the sauce, strain it, and boil quickly to reduce it; then add a spoonful of sugar browning to colour it, and if liked a little tomato sauce and ketchup to impart flavour. Put the meat on a dish, trim the carrots to a neat shape and place them round it, pour a part of the gravy over the veal, and serve the rest in a tureen. A pint of fresh green peas and two pounds or more of new potatoes should be cooked separately, and served with the veal. If liked, the veal, instead of being cut up into pieces, may be evenly larded in the grain of the meat with strips of fat bacon, and dressed whole. If a caK's foot is boiled with the veal it wiU much improve the gravy. Time to simmer the veal, two hours if it is cut up, three hours if in one piece. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. Sufiicient for five or sis persons. Veal, Cold (a la Bourgeoise), Prepare the veal the day before it is wanted, according to the directions in the preceding recipe. Turn it out into a bowl, pour the gravy over, and let it get cold. When wanted, turn the whole upon a dish, and serve with the gravy set to jelly round it. Veal (a la Chartreuse). Line a plain round or oval mould with thin slices of fat bacon. Spread a layer of veal forcemeat upon this, and fill the mould with a rich fricassee of veal. Lay dressed turnips and carrots, cut into appropriate shapes, round the edge of the mould, cover with pastry, and steam it over boiling water. Turn it out upon a dish, and serve very hot. Time to steam the chartreuse, about an hour. Veal and Fowl, Blanching of. Veal of every part is to be made firm by means of boiling-hot water, and we also lay the flesh of any kind of fowl required to be rendered firm in hot water, allowing it to remain undisturbed at a short distance from the fire, plunging it afterwards into cold water. Especially veal intended for cooking, or previously cut up into proper pieces for a fricassee, is kept for a quarter of an hour in boiling water at a distance from the fire, and then removed and washed in cold water. A leg or breast of veal must be set on the fire with cold water to draw it a little ; it must not, however, boil, as that would extract too much of its goodness. Eemove it from the fire, cover it over, and let it stand a quarter of an hour ; after which it will bo found to have become perfectly di-awn and whitened. Take it out, lay it in cold water, wash it, and dry it with a clean cloth. Veal and Ham. Patties. Line pattypans with puff paste in the usual way, bake them, and fill them with a mixture prepared as follows : Mince finely six ounces of dressed lean veal and thi-ee oimces of dressed ham. Put a quarter of a pint of cream and a quarter of a pint of white stock into a saucepan ; thicken this sauce with white roux or with a small piece of butter roUed in flour, and simmer till it is smooth and coats the spoon. Add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a flavouring of grated nutmeg and lemon-rind, together with a little lemon-juice. Put in the minced meat, and simmer gently, stirring all the time, till it is quite hot but it must not boil, or it will be hard. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to heat the mince. VEA ( 1028 ) VEA Veal and Ham Pie. Take from a pound j and a half to two pounds of veal cutlets or of nice lean veal from any part. Cut these into neat square pieces ahout the size of a wabiut. Put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish, and sprinkle upon the meat a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, another of powdered mace, and another of minced savoury herbs. Lay upon these flavouring ingredients two or three shces of ham or streakj' bacon, and repeat the alternate layers until the dish is full. Let ham constitute the uppennost layer. The yolks of three eggs boiled hard and cut into sHces may be interspersed with the meat. Pour half a pint of stock upon the meat. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, cover with the same, ornament the surface, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, pour a little boiling gravy into the pie, and serve. This pie may be enriched by the addition of a little forcemeat, or a few oysters or mushrooms, or a sweetbread, but it will be found excellent without them. If liked, a gravy prepared as follows may be poured upon the meat instead of stock : Take a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a minced shallot, and a tea-spoonful of parsley. Fry these in a httle butter over a gentle fire. Add haK a pint of stock or water, a small piece of brown thickening, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of ketchup. Stir the sauce till it boils, add a few drops of lemon- juice, strain it, and it will be ready for use. Time to bake the pie, an hour and a haK or more according to size. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., plainly made. Veal and Ham, To Press {see Ham and Veal, To Press). Veal and Macaroni Pudding. Take as much veal (free from bone) as will about three-parts fill the pudding-basin it is intended to use. When fortune is favourable, half a pound of bacon, the veal kidney or part of it, the sweetbread, or a few oysters or mushrooms, may be added to the veal. Cut the meat into smaU neat pieces, and season Avith pepper and salt. Break into one-inch lengths as much macaroni as will fill the vacant space in the pudding-basin, and soak these in lukewarm water for half an hour. Line the puddingbasin with good suet pastry. Fill it with layers of meat and macaroni, and sprinkle grated lemon and powdered mace between the layers. Add half a tea-cupful of stock or water for gravy and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Lay a pastry cover on the top of the pudding, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Take it up, untie the cloth, and run a sharp skewer into the pudding, in order to ascertain whether or not the meat is tender. If not, it will require_ longer boiling. If it is done enough, turn it out carefully upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. Time to boil a pudding made with a pound and a half of veal, about two hours. Probable cost, varj-ing with the nature of the contents. Sufiicient for seven or eight persons. Veal and Rice Soup. Take about four pounds of the knuckle of veal. Break up the bones, and put them with the meat into a small stock-pot with a gallon of stock made from bones, or water and any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. The knucklebone of a ham or a little scalded and scraped bacon-rind will be a great improvement. Let the liquor boil, skim well, and thi-ow into it two carrots, a tui-nip, two onions, each stuck with one clove, a few sticks of celery or a little celery-seed, and pcpjjer and salt. Simmer the stock very gently indeed for three hours. Take out the meat, and put it aside till wanted. Strain the liquor, and pour it into a smaller saucepan with half a pound of half -boiled rice. Let it simmer until the rice is quite tender. Cut the veal into pieces convenient for serving, let them become hot in the liquor. Pour the soup, with the rice and veal, into a tureen, and serve very hot. Time, foxu- hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Sufiicient for eight or ten persons. Veal, Bachelor's Stew of. In order to dress veal successfully in this way there should be at hand a small saucepan with a very closely-fitting lid. Take a slice of veal from the fiUet, about two inches thick, and weighing from two to three pounds. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the saucepan and brown the cutlet in this on both sides. Dredge it with pepper, and place upon it a little piece of lean ham, together with two or three sliced carrots, some sticks of celery, a few onions or peas, or any other suitable fiavouring ingredients, together with salt and cayenne, a spoonful of ketchup, and a teacupful of boiling stock or water. Cover the saucepan very closely, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till done enough. Place the veal on a hot dish, garnish with the vegetables, thicken the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, with two pounds of veal, 3s. Sufficient for two or three persons. Veal, Blanquette of. Made from Cold Dressed Meat. Take from two to three pounds of cold dressed veal. Cut it into neat slices, and trim away the brown outside. Put these slices into a dish, cover them over, and keep them in a cool place till wanted. Mince the brown part, and put it into a saucepan with a good-sized onion chopped small, a stick of celerj', a bunch of parsle_y, a little pepper and salt, and a pint of stock made from bones. Let all simmer gently together for half an hour. Strain the gravy, and put it again into the saucepan with a pinch of pounded mace, the strained juice of half a lemon, and the slices of veal. Let it simmer a minute or two. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl. Mix a small quantity of the warm gravy with them, and add them gradually to the rest. Stir the sauce till it is smooth and thick, but it must not boil or it will curdle. This dish is excellent with green peas as an accompaniment. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. VEA ( 1029 ) VEA Veal, Blanquette of, Made from Presh Meat. Take from two to three pounds of the breast of veal. Cut it into pieces the size of a walnut, put these into a small saucepan, and pour upon them as much boiling stock or water as will cover them. Let the liquor boil up, and skim it. Throw into it two onions each stuck with a clove, two carrots, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. Add a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the meat gently for an hour. Drain it, and put it aside for a short time. Strain the gravj% thicken with white thickening, and let it boil, stirring occasionally till it coats the spoon. Let it cool a minute, then beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, mix with them a spoonful of the gravy, and add the rest gradually. Put the pieces of veal into a small saucepan, strain the gravy upon them, and let them remain in it gently simmering until they are heated through, but the sauce must not boil or it will curdle. Add a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. 'Mix and serve. Time to simmer the veal, about an hour. Probable cost, breast of veal, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Blanquette of, with Cucumbers. Cut some cold veal into neat pieces about the size of a walnut and a quarter of an inch thick. Pare and quarter a large cucumber, and cut it into lengths of half an inch. Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and cover them with vinegar. Let them remain for half an hour. Drain them well, and dry them with a soft cloth. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a bright stewpan, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg and a small piece of sugar. Put in the slices of cucumber, and let them simmer gently till tender. Drain off the butter, pour some white sauce upon the cucumber, add the pieces of veal, and let all simmer gently together till the meat is quite hot. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish the dish with sippets. The white sauce should be made with nicely-seasoned veal stock made from the veal bones, and thickened with white thickening. It will be improved by stewing onions and mushrooms in it to flavour it, but it will be very good without them. A little lemon- juice may be stirred in at the last moment. Time to stew the cucumber in the butter, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, about Is. 6d. Veal, Blanquette of, with Mushrooms. Cut some cold dressed veal into pieces about an inch square and a quarter of an inch thick. Take a quarter of the bulk of the meat in button mushrooms, clean these with a piece of flannel and a little salt, and simmer them very gently with a slice of fresh butter till they are done enough. Put the pieces of veal in a saucepan, lay the stewed mushroooms upon them, and pour over all a little nicely-seasoned veal stock thickened with a Little piece of white thickening. Heat the preparation gently till it is on the point of boiling. Beat one or two eggs in a bowl, stir a spoonful of sauce into them, and add them gradually to the rest. Shake the sauce over the fire for a minute, but do not let it boU, or it wUl curdle. Add a table-spoonful of lemonjuice, and serve. If liked, the blanquette may be piled in the centre of a dish with a border of pastry round it. Time to simmer the mushrooms, ten to fifteen minutes. Veal, Blanquette of, with Mushrooms (another waj') . Take from one to two pounds of cold dressed veal, and miuce it finely. Chop an onion, and fry it in butter till it begins to tm-n yellow. Stir in. with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and beat it with a spoonful of flour to a smooth paste. Moisten this with stock to make it of the consistency of cream, and add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce for about ten minutes, add the minced veal, and simmer it again until the meat is heated throughout, but it must not boil, or it will harden. If liked, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and the strained juice of half a lemon may be added to the sauce. Time, altogether, about an hour. Suflicient for three or four persons. Veal, Boiled. Generally speaking, veal plainly boiled is regarded as too insipid to be much relished. Still, for an occasional change, the joints which would otherwise be roasted may be boiled. Bacon, or sausage, or boiled tongue should be served with boiled veal, and parsley and butter, onion, oyster, celery, or any piquant sauce should accompany it. Particular attention is necessary in boihng veal, as it is so easily discoloured, and then has a very bad appearance. It should be put into a delicately-clean saucepan, covered with cold water or milk and water, heated slowly, and simmered gently until done enough. As the scum rises it should be removed with scrupulous care. Veal from which gravy has been made may, if not too much boiled, be served in this way. Veal, Braised. Take about three pounds of veal the middle of the loin or the best end of the neck will be the most suitable for the pui-pose. Cut the bones short, and chop off the chine bone close to the meat. Take a small bright saucepan, and rub the bottom quickly thi'ee or four times across with a clove of gar He. Lay two or three thin slices of lean bacon or ham in the bottom of the saucepan, and place the veal upon these. Add a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a tea-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a lump of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch of grated nutmeg, .a little pepper, and salt if the bacon is not already sufficiently salted. Place thin slices of fat bacon upon the veal, and pour upon it half a pint of cold stock or of water. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer it as gently as possible till done enough. Take up the veal, put it on a hot dish, and place it in the oven for a short time to keep hot. Skim the gravy, and rub it with the ham, vegetables, &c., thi-ough a fine hair sieve. Let it boil up, stir a wine-glassful of madeira into it, pour it upon the veal, and serve very hot. If a superlative dish is required, before dressing the veal off, cut the skin of the veal, but not too closely. Spread VEA ( 1030 ) VEA two ounces of butter on the meat, and lay on the Tftutter three freah truffles whidi have been cleaned and cut into thin slices. Place the skin in its original position, and sew it on with coarse twine. Proceed as before. Probable cost, veal, lid. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Veal, Braised, with Truffles. Take about four pounds of veal from the middle of the loin. Saw off the chine-bone, cut the bones short, and take off the skin an eighth of an inch thick. Spread on this two ounces of butter and three fresh tnitfles which have been cleaned and thinly sliced. Eestore the skin to its original positioH, and sew it on securely with twine. Butter a stewpan, and cover the bottom with a thin slice of ham. Put the veal on this, and place round it the bones and trimmings, a shced carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a mushroom chopped smaU, a lump of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a grain of coriander-seed and a piece of garlic the size of a spht pea. These two last ingredients may be omitted. Pour over all half a pint of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till done enough. Skim the liquor, and baste the meat with it frequently. Take up the veal, and put it ia the oven to keep hot. Skim the fat from the gravy, and rub it with the vegetables, &c., through a fine sieve. Let it boil, and if liked add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the veal on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the veal, two hours and a half. Probable cost, veal. Is. per pound. Veal, Breast of. A breast of veal consists of two portions, the best end and the "brisket end. The brisket is generally Id. or 2d. per pound cheaper than the best end. Breast of veal may be bought whole or in parts. A whole one weighs from nine to twelve pounds. Veal, Breast of (a la Chipolata). Bone, roU, braise, and dish the veal according to the directions given in Veal, Breast of. Polled and Braised. Place round it a chipolata ragout (see Chipolata Garnish), omitting any of the ingredients that are difficult to procure. A little bacon should be served with the veal, either in the garnish or on a separate dish. Veal, Breast of (a la Marengo). This is an imitation of the famous fricasseed Chicken, a la Marengo. Cut up a portion of the breast of veal into neat pieces convenient for serving. Fry these in butter or fat till they are hghtly browned, and put into the pan with them a little grated ham, a large onion thinly sliced, and a little pepper and salt. Pour upon them as much stock or water as will barely cover them. Simmer all gently together tUl the veal is done enough, then add half a dozen or more stewed mushrooms. Thicken the sauce with a small piece of brown thickening, clear it from fat, add a table- spoonful of ketchup, and boil till it is smooth. Put the veal into a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, breast of veal, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of, BoiLed. If the sweetbread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water for a couple of hours, then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a saucepan, and cover with cold water, bring it to the boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Let it boil, and then simmer gently imtil done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley sauce over it. Send boiled bacon to table on a separate dish. The sweetbread itiay, of course, be dressed separately. Time to simmer the veal, about one hour and ahaK. Veal, Breast of. Broiled. Three parts roast a portion of the breast of veal. Take it up, score it across in even lines, and fill these with salt and cayenne and a few powdered herbs. Broil the veal over a clear fire, and turn it over from one side to the other till it is done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with piquant sauce poured over it. Veal, Breast of. Collared. Bone the veal, remove the gristle and tendons, and to flatten it beat it gently with a rolling-pin. Spread upon it a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, together with some parsley, thjTne and marjoram, and two or three shallots, all finely chopped. Lay upon the herbs some thick slices of fine ham, together with two calves' tongues, boiled, skinned, and shced. Roll the veal tightly, and bind it with tape. Put it into a saucepan with as much stock or water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently till it is quite tender throughout. Take it up, and put it in press till cold. If liked, the flesh of two boiled j)igs' or calves' feet may be put upon the ham, and to improve the appearance of the veal some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and a little sliced beetroot may be interspersed with the seasoning. Time to simmer the veal, about four hours. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Probable cost, 14s. to 16s. Veal, Breast of, Collared (another way). Bone a breast of veal. Lay it on the table, and spread on it a thick layer of nicely seasoned oyster forcemeat {see Oysters, Forcemeat of). Roll the veal as tightly as possible, and bind it with tape. Put it into boiling water, let it boil up once, skim the liquor carefully, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the veal is tender. Put the bones into a sejiarate saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer till the liquor is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, thicken with white thickening or with a little flour and butter, and stir into it two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream. If milk has to be used instead of cream the yolk of an egg may be beaten up with it. Serve the moat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. This dish may be garnished with forcemeat-balls, and with the sweetbread cut into slices, egged and bread-crumbed, and fried ; or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be used instead. The meat is sometimes baked instead of boiled, and then a Kttle weak stock VEA ( 1031 ) VEA should be put into tlie pan with it, and it should bo basted frequently. If it is preserved in pickle it will keep good for some time. Time to simmer the veal, three to four hours. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Ragofit of. Take o?E the under bone, and put the veal into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover it. Let the liquor boil up, then add a large carrot sliced, three onions, a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, the tliin rind of a lemon, and a little pepper and salt. Skim the gravy, and yinimer it gently until the veal is quite tender. Thicken the gravy till it is of the consistency of sauce, and stir into it the strained juice of a small lemon and a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the veal into a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with savouiy forcemeat-balls and cut lemon. Time to simmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd.per pound. Veal, Breast of. Ragout of (another way). Take about four pounds of the breast of veal. Divide this into pieces convenient for serving, and fry them to a light brown in hot fat. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, csver with stock made from bones, and put with them a large onion stuck with two cloves, haK a blade of mace, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a small roll of thin lemon-rind, five or six brmsed allspice, and a httle pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Strain a pint of the gravy, or more if required, into a separate saucepan, and put the first one by the side of the fire that the meat may keep hot. Thicken the gravy with brown thickening, and flavour with a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, and half a wine-glass of light wine. Taste it, add a little more pepper and salt if required, and let it boil up once. Put the veal into a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. A little fried bacon should accompany this dish, and forcemeat balls may be added or not. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a haK, or two lioui'S if thick. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per pound. VEAX, BEEAST OF, KOASTED, TO CARVE. Veal, Breast of, Roasted. If the sweetbroad is retained, skewer it to the back. Cover the joint with the caul, or, wanting this, with a piece of buttered paper. Put it down to a clear fire at a moderate distance from it, and baste liberally till done enough. When it has been down about an hour and a half, remove the caul, flour the joint, and let it brown. Serve on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. Garnish with a cut lemon, and send boiled bacon to table with it. If liked, forcemeat baUs may be served with the veal, and mushroom sauce sent to table with it. Time to roast the breast, two to two and a half hours, or twenty minutes to the poimd. Probable cost, veal, 9d. or lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of. Roasted, To Carve. The breast of veal should be first separated into two parts it rightly consists of two the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. This is done by cutting in the direction of the lines 1, 2. The gristly part being divided into parts in the direction 3, 4, may be offered to those who prefer it in a breast of veal stewed these are particularly tender and inviting. The ribs are to be separated in the direction 5, 6 ; and with a part of the breast, a slice of the sweetbread cut across the middle. Veal, Breast of. Rolled. Trim a breast of veal, and remove all the bones and tendons. If requested, the butcher will perform this operation, which shoxild be done the day before the veal is to be dressed, so that the bones may be stewed for gravy (see Veal, Gravy for). Spread a thin layer of forcemeat over the inside of the breast, roU it up very tightly, and bind it firmly with tape. Tie it in a cloth. Put a plate at the bottom of the stewpan, lay the veal into it, and cover with cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it, and simmer gently for three hours. When done enough, take off the cloth, put the veal on a dish, pour the gravy over, garnish with cut lemon, fried bacon, and forcemeat balls, and it will be ready for serving. If liked, two pounded anchovies, a little blanched and chopped parsley, and the boiled livers of two fowls may be added to the gravy. Veal thus prepared may be baked or roasted as well as boiled. Time, three hours from the time the water boils. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost, veal, lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Rolled and Braised. Bone a breast of veal, spread forcemeat upon it, and roU it as in the last recipe. Bind securely with tape, and lay slices of fat bacon all round it. Lay it in a stewpan just large enough to contain it, and add a carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a few peppercorns, half a blade of mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Pour over it from half to three-quarters of a pint of stock, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer veiy gently over a slow fire for three hours. Baste frequently with its liquor. Take up the veal, lay it on a dish, and put it in the oven. Strain the liquor, and boil quickly tiU it begins to thicken. Brush the veal over with it two or three times, then place it on a dish, garnish with forcemeat balls, rashers of bacon, or dressed vegetables, and send it to table with any of the following sauces : White sauce, Italian sauce, melted butter, parsley sauce, musliroom sauce, &c. Time to simmer the veal, tliree hours. Veal, Breast of. Stewed in White Sauce. Take a piece of the breast of veal weighing about three pounds, and cut it into neat pieces convenient for serving. Put these into a stewpan with a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two shallot?, or f o\ir young VEA ( 1032 ) VEA onions, the thin rind of half a lemon, a blade of mace, and a little salt and white pepper. Pomupon the meat a pint of stock or water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then di-aw it to the side, and simmer as gently as possible tiU done enough. Take up the meat, and place it in j the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, put it j back into the saucepan, and stir into it the yolks j of two eggs which have been beaten up with a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Stir this i sauce over the fire for a minute or two tiU it i begins to thicken, then pour it over the veal, j and serve very hot. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added, or it wiU curdle. If liked, the meat maybe left whole instead of being cut up. Those who like the flavour may rub the stewpan across five or six times with freshlycut garlic before putting in the meat. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a half, or two houi-s if thick. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per poimd. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Veal, Breast of, Stewed Plainly. Take out the long bones and the gristle, and trim a breast of veal neatly. Put it into a stewpan, and cover with boiling stock made from bones. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer very gently until the veal is tender. Drain and dish it, garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, and pour a little good gravy round it. The liquor in which it is stewed, unless thoroughly cleared from the fat, will be too rich to serve with it. A little bacon should accompany this dish. Time to stew the veal, two to two and a half hours. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Stewed with Green Peas. Take two pounds of the breast of veal. Out these into pieces convenient for serving, dredge them with flour, and sprinkle upon them a little pepper, salt, and white sugar. Fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browTied. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with as much boiling stock made from bones as will barely cover them. Let them simmer very gently till done enough. Baste the meat frequently with the gravy, and skim this well to clear it from fat. About a quarter of an hour before the veal is to be served, throw into the liquor about a quart of freshly-shelled young peas. Let them simmer until tender. Serve very hot. Time to simmer the veal, two houi's. Piobable cost, about 3s. Suflficient for four or five persons. Veal, Breast of. Stewed with Oysters. Take a piece of the breast of veal weighing about two pounds. Put it into a saucepan with a large onion stuck with a clove, half a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, half an inch of stick cinnamon, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over it the liquor from a tin of oysters, and add a table -spoonful of strained lemon-juice, with a little stock if required. Simmer the veal as gently as possible for two hours, and skim it well. Strain the liquor, put with it a quarter of a pint of milk or cream mixed with the yolks of two eggs, and stir the sauce till it thickens. Make the oysters hot by putting them into the oven in the dish in which the veal is to be served. Pour the sauce upon them, place the veal in the centre of the dish, and serve verj' hot. Fresh oysters may of course be used instead of tinned ones, and they will be superior, but more expensive. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, if made with milk, '2s. lOd. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal, Breast of. Stuffed and Roasted. Take a breast of veal weighing about eight pounds. Eaise the thick part with the fingers, and force into the vacant place as much veal stuffing as possible. Bring the edges of the meat together, and sew them with twine, or fasten them with skewers, that the forcemeat may not escape. Put the veal down at a moderate distance from a clear fire. Baste it liberally. When done enough take it up, pour melted butter over, and send fried rashers of bacon to table with it. Time to roast the veal, one hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Veal, Breast of. Stuffed and Stewed. Take a breast of veal, raise the flesh, and fill the space with good veal forcemeat. Bring the edges together, and sew them securely with a little piece of muslin over them that the forcemeat may not escape. Put the meat down before a clear fire, dredge it with flom-, and baste till it is equally and brightly browned all over. Take it up, and put it into a stewpan with about a cupful of stock made from bones. Put the contents of the dripping-tin into it, throw a handful of the forcemeat in to flavoui' the sauce, cover the stewpan closely, and let the veal simmmer gently till done enough. Take it up, if necessary thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, pour it over the veal, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried rashers of bacon, forcemeat balls, and cut lemon. Time, about half an hour to brown the veal ; two hours or more to stew it. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Veal, Breast of. Stuffed and Stewed (another way). Stuff the breast of veal as before. Line a stewpan with slices of bacon, put in the %'eal, and add two onions, each stuck vith one clove, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper. Lay sKces of bacon on the top of the veal, and pour upon it about half a pint or more of stock made from bones. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until done enough. Take up the veal, strain the gravy, skim it well, thicken with a little brown thickening, stir the juice of half a lemon into it, and pour it over the meat. A glassful of light wine may be added or not. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon, forcemeat balls, and fried bacon, or send bacon to table on a separate dish. Time to stew the veal, three hours. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Breast of, with Spring Vegetables. Bone, roll, and braise the veal according to the direetions already given for Veal, Breast of, Rolled and Braised. Whilst it VEA ( 1033 ) VEA is in the stewpan prepare and cook separately young vegetables, such as young turnips, carrots, onions, new potatoes, beans, and green peas. When wanted, heat these in a little of the veal gravy, and place them fancifully round the veal. Pour a little of the sauce into the dish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Veal, Bride's Pie of (Scottish dish). Take two large calf's feet, and boil them till they are quite tender. Make a mixture as for mince pies, with the calf's-feet flesh cut up very small, a pound of finely-shred suet, a pound of apples pared, cored, and minced, half a pound of picked and dried currants, half a pound of raisins, two ounces of mixed candied peel, a jiinch of powdered cinnamon, and one small nutmeg grated. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten them with a glassful of brandy and a glassful of port. Line a dish with good pastry. Put in the mince, and conceal a gold ring in it. Cover the pie -wath pastry, and ornament with any suitable devices. Bake it until the pastry is done enough. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Brisket of, and Rice. Cut a brisket of veal into neat pieces, and stew it according to the directions already given. Boil a pint of washed rice very gradually in a little more than a quart of broth till it is tender and has absorbed all the moistm-e. Butter the inside of a plain mould, and line it with the boiled rice an inch and a half thick. Put the veal into the centre with a little of the thickening sauce. Cover the stew with rice, put on the lid, and bake the preparation in a gentle oven. Let it remain until stiff, and be careful that it does not bum. Turn it out upon a dish, and send the remainder of the sauce to table with it. If liked, to save trouble, a wall of rice may be placed round the dish, rice being served in the centre. The addition of a spoonful of curry powder or curry paste wiU convert this dish into curried veal. Time to bake the I'ice in the mould, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Brisket of, Stewed with Onions. Cut the brisket of veal into small pieces convenient for serving. Rub a stewpan quickly three or four times across with a freshlycut clove of garlic. Dissolve in it a thick slice of fresh butter, put in the veal, and add three large onions thinly sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew its contents as gentlj' as possible till done enough. Shake the saucepan frequently to keep the veal from burning. Ten minutes before the dish is to be served pour over the meat a little stock, if this is needed. Throw in a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Let aU boil up together, and serve the pieces of veal and the onions in a hot dish with the gra-\-y' poured over them. Garnish with toasted sii)pet3 and sliced lemon. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Suificient for five or six persons. Veal Broth. Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, to which put two ounces of rice, or vermicelli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When the meat has become thoroughly boiled and the liquor is reduced to about one half, it may be sent up to table with or without the meat. Veal Broth, Brown. Slice one or two onions, and fry them in hot fat till they are bro%vned but not at all burnt. Cut a pound of veal into slices, and break the bone belonging to it into small pieces. Take up the onions with a slice, and brown the meat in the same fat. Pour three pints of stock or water upon the meat ; add the bones with any bones and remains of cold roast beef or poultry that may be at hand. Let it boil up, skim carefully, and simmer quickly until the gravy is sufficiently strong. Flavouring vegetables may be stewed with it or not, and a spoonful of ketchup may be added if liked. Time to simmer the stock, about two hours. Veal Broth for Invalids. Cut two pounds of lean veal into small pieces. Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and put them into a saucepan with a quart of cold water. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then simmer as gently as possible. Strain it, let it get cold, and remove the fat from the surface. Thicken with a little arrowroot before serving. Time to simmer the veal, three hours. Veal, Bubble and Squeak of. Take the remains of dressed veal ; cut the meat into neat slices, fry these in hot fat, and put them before the fire to keep hot. Take some boiled cabbage or spinach. Fry this also, and when it is quite hot pile it on a dish, and arrange the pieces of meat round it. Send tomato or any kind of piquant sauce to table with it. Time to fry the veal and the greens, altogether about a quarter of an hour. Veal Cake. Take a pound and a half of cold dressed veal freed from fat and skin. Mince it finely, and thoroughly mix with it half a pound of good bacon, also finely minced. Season the mixture with a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of freshly-pounded mace, half a small nutmeg grated, and a little salt and cayenne. Press it smoothly into a buttered dish, and bake in a gentle oven. When it is done enough, drain the fat from it, turn it upon a dish, and serve hot or cold. If hot, a little brown gravy should bo sent to table with it. Beef suet finely shred may, if preferred, be substituted for the bacon. If any portion of this cake is left after being cut, it may be divided into slices, and heated in a Dutch oven. This cake should be baked in a gentle oven, or it wiU be dried up. Time to bake the cake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, veal, lOd. or lid. per pound. Veal Cake (another way). Take as much cold dressed lean veal as will fill a small earthenware mould. Mince it finely, and mix with it three ounces of ham or bacon, also minced, a slice of the crumb of bread soaked in milk, a small piece of butter, two eggs well beaten, as much minced shallot as will lie on a threepenny piece, and a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, press them into a buttered mould, VEA ( 1034 ) VEA and bake the . preparation in a moderate oven. Turn it out when cold, and garnish with parsley. If liked, this cake may he served hot, and sent to tahlo with brown gravy. Time to bake the cake, about an hour, or imtil it is brown. Veal Cake (another way). Butter a plain earthenware dish or moiild. Fill it with alternate layers of hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly, and beaten to a smooth paste. Pour a spoonful or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, cover the pan closely, and bake in a gentle oven. When done enough, press firmly into the mould, put a plate with a weight upon it, and let it remain untouched till cold. Turn it out, garnish with parsley, and serve for luncheon or supper. Time to bake, about an hour. Veal Cake, Superior. Put a pint of stock made from bones into a stewpan with three young onions, each stuck with one clove, a small sprig of thjTue,' a bay-leaf, a small piece of mace, and two ounces of gelatine. Place the saucepan on the fire, and stir its contents till the gelatine is dissolved. To clarify it, stir into it when cold the white and crushed shell of an egg beaten up with a little "watei-. Let it boil, draw it to the side, and let it simmer gently without touching it for ten minutes ; take it off the fire, let it settle for ten minutes, and then strain it through a jelly-bag. Cut a pound and a half of dressed veal and three-quarters of a pound of bacon or ham into thin slices. Pour a spoonful or two of the savoury jelly into an ordinary potting pan or earthenware dish. Let it get cold, then cover with a layer of hard-boiled yolks of eggs cut into slices. Place on this a neat layer of the slices of veal, then a little salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, and shallot, and afterwards a few slices of ham. Pour a little jelly upon this, and repeat the layers imtil the dish is full. Cover the pan closely by laying over it several folds of paper, put it in a dripping-tin three parts filled with boiling water, and keep adding more water as this boils away, until the cake is done enough. Take it out of the oven, and set in a cool place for some hours. Turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. If the cake is put into the oven without the water under it, it will in all probability be dried up and spoilt. Time to bake the cake, an hour and a quarter to an hour and a haK. Prebable cost, 4s. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Veal Cakes, Small. Mince, season, and mix the veal and bacon as in the last recipe. Divide the mixture into small cakes. Dredge these all over with flour, and fry in hot fat over a gentle fire. Drain them well, and serve in a hot dish with brown sauce, made from the trimmings of the veal and thickened, poured over them. Time to fry the cakes, about a quarter of an hour. Veal Calf's Brains (a la Ravigote). Wash the brains in several waters, and free them from skin and fibre. Boil them for ten minutes in salt and water mixed with a table spoonful of vinegar, and when they are fiim, cut them in sbces, dip them in a frying batter, and fry them to a light brown. Place them in a circle on a hot dish with a little fried parsley in the centre, and send ravigote sauce to table with them. Time to fry the brains, four or five minutes. Calf's brains are generally sold with the head. Sufiicient for two or three persons. Veal Calf s Head, Boiled. Take a calf's head, cut it in two, and take out the brains; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in warm water for a quarter of an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, and when the water comes to the boil skim, carefully. Half a head, without the skin, wiU require boiling from an hoirr and a half to two hours and a quarter, according to size : with the skin it will require an hour longer. It must be stewed very gently till tender. Boil tender eight or ten sage-leaves, or parsley, or both ; chop them fine, and set them ready on a plate. Wash the brains well in two waters; put them into a basin of cold water with a little salt in it, and let them soak for an hour ; then pour away the cold and cover them with hot water; put them into a stewpan with plenty of cold water, and boil very gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Now chop them {not very fine), put them into a saucepan with the sage-leaves, a couple of table-spoonfuls of thin melted butter, and a little salt (some add a little lemon-juice), and stir them well together. As soon as they are well warmed, skin the tongue, trim off the roots, and put it into the centre of the dish, the brains round it ; or chop the brains with an shallot, a little parsley, and four hard-boiled eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel or white sauce. A calf's head is usually attended by a pig's cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon, or pickled pork, greens, caiiliflower, broccoli, or peas, and always by parsley and butter. If you like it full-dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather. Powder it with a seasoning of finely-minced or dried and powdered winter savory, lemon-thyme, or sage, parsley, pepper, salt, and bread-crumbs; and give it a bro vn with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven ; when it begins to dry, sprinkle a httle melted butter over it with a paste-brush. You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon. Veal Cairs Head, Hashed. Soak the head in water, boil it, not thoroughly, but until the meat may be cut clean from the bone. Take the meat off the bono on the best side, lay it in a dish, and cover it with crumbs of bread among which are a few herbs cut very small, with some pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and the yolks of two eggs. Set the dish before the fire, and keep turning it occasionally that all parts of the meat may become brown. Slice the remainder of the head, peel and slice also the tongue. Put a pint of good gravy, or of the liquor in which the head was boiled, into a pan with an onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, cayenne, shallot, a glassful of sherry, and a little oyster liquor. Boil these TEA ( 1035 ) VEA together for a few minutes ; then strain it on the meat, which should have been previously dredged with flour. Fresh or pickled mushrooms, truffles, morels, and two spoonfuls of ketchup should be added. Half the brains beaten up with flour and butter should be added, and the whole simmered together. The other half of the brains are to bo beaten up with lemon-peel and parsley finely chopped, some nutmeg, mace, and an egg. These are to be fried in small cakes, also some oysters dipped in yolk of egg; \vith these and some good forcemeat balls the dish must be garnished. Veal Calf s Head Pie (to be served cold). Scald, soak, and parboil haK a calf's head, with two pounds of the knuckle of veal, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a strip of thin lemon-rind, haK a blade of mace, a little salt and cayenne, and as much stock made from bones as will cover the meat. Let the Uquor boil, and simmer it for half an hour. Remove the scum as it rises. Let the head get cold, then cut off the flesh in neat pieces convenient for serving. Skin the tongue, and cut it into small square pieces. Strain the liquor in which the head was simmered, and dissolve a little isinglass or gelatine in it, so that it win jelly strongly when cold. Cut part of the veal into pieces, mince the remainder, and make it into forcemeat with bread-crumbs, shred beef suet, and seasoning {see Veal Forcemeat). Divide this into balls the size of a nutmeg. Butter a good-sized pie-dish. Line it with thin slices of lean ham, and fill it with layers of the calf's head, the tongue, the veal, the forcemeat balls, and hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season each layer with salt, pepper, grated lemon-rind, and nutmeg. Cover the meat with strained jelly gravy. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, cover with the same, ornament the surface as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is thoroughly baked the pie is done enough. In favourable weather this pie will keep good for ten days or more. Probable cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for a luncheon or supper dish. Veal Cairs Head, Plain. Take a nice calf s head and bone it, that is to say, take off the bones of the lower jaw and of the nose, which you cut off as close to the eyes as possible. Then put all this into a large vessel with warm water to wash and disgorge the blood, or otherwise the head will look reddish. Then blanch it thoroughly, and let it cool. Now make a blanc in the following manner : One pound of beef suet cut into dice, one pound of fat bacon also cut into dice, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt and popper, one or two onions, a bunch of parsley seasop with thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, mace, allspice and water enough to cover the calf's head. When the blanc has boiled for an hour, fold the head up in a clean towel, and let it boil in that blanc for about three hours. When done, drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and then replace it. A calf's head must be served up quite hot, with the sauce called au pauwe homme (poor man's sauce), n amely, minced shallots and parsley, vinegar, salt and pepper, and the brains well minced. - Ude. Veal Calf s Liver, Pried. Take two pounds of caK's liver. Cut it into shces, and soak these in water for half an hour. Dry them in a soft cloth, and dip them into flour. Fry them with a little fat, and turn them about that they may be equally cooked. When they are lightly browned, sprinkle over them a savoury powder made with equal quantities of chopped parsley and finely-shred young onions, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a little stock over the liver, let it simmer a few minutes, add the strained juice of a lemon, and serve the Hver on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it. If liked, this dish may be enriched by adding a pinch of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a glassful of light wine to the stock. Fried bacon may then be served with it. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to dress the liver. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost of calf's liver, lOd. per pound. Veal, Choosing of. The flesh of veal ought to be white, approaching to pink, with the fat firm. It should not be too large or it will be coarse and hard. The vein in the shoulder should be of a bright red, and the kidneys should be covered with fat. If the flesh be clammy and discoloured by spots of various hues, the veal is imfit for use. Veal is best when it is from two to three months old. The flesh of the buU-calf is suited for joints, that of the cow-calf for made dishes. The latter possesses the udder, which causes it to be preferred. That part of the loin which is under the kidney first begins to taint. It should therefore be examined carefully before being purchased. When the udder is skewered back it is always well to take out the skewer in order to ascertain whether the under part is perfectly sweet. Under the pretext of making veal white a barbarous practice has prevailed of bleeding the calves daily irntU they have scarcely any blood left before killing them. Although this method of slaughtering the animal is not now universally adopted, it is still carried on to a large extent. The humane housekeeper would do well to ask the butcher whether or not the meat is killed in this way, and to refuse to purchase it unless the calf has been deprived of life with as little pain as possible. " It is necessary to observe," says M. Ude, ' ' that the veal you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat ; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence ; but it is certain that very white veal is more healthy than conunon veal : red veal will disorder a great many stomachs, white never does." Veal Chop Stewed with Carrots. Take a large chop from the neck, about one pound in weight, saw off the chine bone, trim the chop neatly, and fry it in a little hot fat for three or four minutes tiU it is lightly browned on both sides. Take it up, drain it, and put it into a small clean saucepan with two large carrots cut into thick slices, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over the meat as much boiling stock as win cover it; put the lid on the saucepan, VEA ( 1036 ) VEA and let its contents simmer gently until the carrot is tender, when the meat also will be suificiently done. Put the chop on a dish, garnish with the carrots, strain the gravy over all, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the chop, about an hour. Probable cost, veal, Is. per pound. Sufficient for one person. Veal Chops Broiled in Paper. Have the chops cut from the loin nearly an inch thick. Trim them neatly, and flatten with the cutlet-bat. Prepare for each chop a piece of doubled stiff white paper sufficiently large to leave a margin an inch and a half wide round the chop. Butter this well, and sprinkle upon the inside a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Put the chops inside the paper, and double down the edges securely. Lay the chops on the gridiron, and place this at a considerable height above a clear iire. Let them broil gently, and turn them frequently. Serve on a hot dish in the papers. Garnish with sliced lemon. Time to broil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds of chops for four persons. Veal, Chump of, Stewed. Take the chump end of a loin of veal. Bone it, and tie it in shape with tape. The butcher wiU bone it if desired. Put it into a stewpan, and pour a half-pint of veal stock upon it. Boil this quickly tiR it begins to thicken, di-aw it back, and let it acquire a little colour; then pour over it a quart of nicely-flavoured stock and a glassful of light wine, and let it simmer very gently till the meat is tender. A quarter of an hour before it is to be served take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven. Strain the liquor, boil quickly tiU it is reduced to half glaze, then baste the meat with it until it looks bright and glossy. Put it on a dish, and garnish with glazed carrots, or onions, or with boiled cauliflowers. Tomatoes, mushi-ooms, or any kind of dressed vegetables may be served with this dish, and brown sauce, Italian sauce, bechamel, tomato sauce, &c. may be sent to table with it. Time to simmer the veal, about twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Veal, Cold, Baked. Take a quarter of a pound of cold roast veal free from skin and gristle. Mince it finely, and with it two or three slices of bacon. Add the bulk of the mince in finely-grated bread-criunbs, together with a little salt and cayenne, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of minced lemon-rind, and a pinch of pounded mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, stir them into a cupful of veal gravj-, add two weU-beaten eggs, and pour the whole into a small buttered dish. Bake in a wellheated oven, and serve with gravy in a tureen. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. Veal, Cold, Hashed. Take about one pound of cold veal, and cut the lean part into thin slices, free from skin and gxistle. Season these with a little salt and pepper, and di-edge a table-spoonful of flour upon them. IVIince a moderate-sized onion finely. Put it in a saucepan with the bones, skin, and trimmings of the veal, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen ; cover aU with stock or water, and simmer the gravy gently for an hour. Strain it, pour it back into the saucepan, and put into it the pieces of veaL Let them simmer in it till they are quite hot without boiling. Add a tea-spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice. Place the veal on a dish. Garnish with toasted sippets and a little fried bacon. Pour the gravy round the veal, and serve the hash very hot. Time, a few minutes to heat the meat. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat and bacon. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Cold, Minced Plainly. Take one pound of cold veal, free it from the bone, skin, and almost entirely from fat ; cut it into small pieces with a sharp knife, and afterwards mince it finely. Season with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of pounded mace or grated nutmeg, and the rind of a quarter of a small lemon Lightly grated; cover with a cloth, and leave it in a cool place till wanted. Break the bone of the veal, and put the pieces into a saucepan with the trimmings and skin, a quarter of the rind of a lemon, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a few peppercorns. Pour upon these ingredients a pint and a half of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and stew the gravy gently tiU it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. When they can be had, a slice of carrot, a stick of celery, an ounce of boiled or unboiled ham, or a little bacon-rind, may be stewed with the gravy. Strain it into a bowl, and when cold free it entirely from fat. Moisten the mince thoroughly with it. Melt a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan. Mix smoothly with it a dessertspoonful of flour and about two table-spoonfuls of thick cream or milk. Stir the mince into this, and let it get thoroughly hot by the side of the fire, but on no account allow it to boil. Pour the preparation into a dish, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. A few thin rashers of fried bacon may be served as an accompaniment. Time, about two hours to simmer the gravy ; twenty minutes to heat the mince. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Cold, Minced with Mushrooms or Oysters. Take a pound of cold dressed veal, and trim away the gristle and the brown edges. A little fat may be added or not; this is a matter of taste. Mince the meat finely, season with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and heat it without letting it reach the point of boiling in a pint of rich sauce. Stir into the sauce at the moment of serving half a pint of mushrooms stewed till tender with a slice of butter and minced. Turn the preparation on a dish, and garnish with fried sippets. If liked, a dozen or more oysters may be used instead of the mushrooms. They should be bearded and put into the mince a quarter of a minute before it is taken from the fire. The oyster broth should, of course, be added. Time, a few minutes to heat the mince. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Veal, Cold, To Bagout. Cut the white part of the cold veal into small round cutlets about the third of an inch thick, and free from VEA ( 1037 ) VEA skin and gristle. Break up the bones of the veal, and with them, the skin and trimmings of the meat, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen, make a little good gravy. Strain this, and thicken it with a small piece of brown thickening, or with a small slice of butter. Season the gravy rather highly with pepper, mace or nutmeg, and anchovy, or mushroom powder. Flour the slices of veal, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, put them on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time, an hour or more to make the gravy. Veal, Cold, To Re-dress. Cold veal may be served in various ways, for which recipes are given imder the different headings. It may be minced, hashed, or made into croquets and rissoles, curried, made into minced coUops, and served with Tartar sauce, or made into a mould. For the latter method proceed as follows : Cut cold-dressed veal into slices, and mince it finely, fat and lean together. Season as for minced veal, with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-rind. Moisten with white stock, and bind the whole together with yolk of egg. Press it into a buttered mould, cover closely, and put it into a pan of fast-boiling water. Let it boil quickly for an hour, or longer if large. Tirm it out, and serve with white gravy, or if preferred brush it over after it is turned out with beaten egg, sprinkle finely-grated broadcrumbs thickly over it, brown it in a brisk oven, or before the fire, and send brown sauce to table with it. Garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Time to boil the mould, one hour or more. Veal, Collared, or Galantine of Veal. ? Take a fine breast of veal. Put it into a stewpan with as much cold water as will cover it, and put with it an onion and a carrot, half a dozen pei percoms, a moderate-sized lump of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Bi-ing the liquor quickly to the boil, skim carefully, then draw the saucepan back, and let it simmer gently for a couple of hours. Take it up, remove the bones and the gristle, and lay it flat upon the table skin downwards. Have ready prepared half a pound of lean ham cut into thin strips, four truffles cleaned and thinly sliced, and a forcemeat made with the hard-boiled yolks of twelve eggs pounded smoothly with three ounces of clarified butter, the grated rind of a lemon, as much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of ancho\nr. Rub the veal quickly across with a piece of freshly-cut garlic, sprinkle a little salt upon it, and rub the strained juice of a lemon into it. Spread the egg forcemeat equally over, and lay the truffle and ham upon this in alternate lines. Roll the veal up very tightly, bind it with tape, and tie it in a cloth. Sew it up securely. Put it again into the liquor in which it was simmered, add the bones and trimmings, let it boil up, then simmer as gently as possible three hours longer. Lot it remain in the liquor half an hour after it is taken from the fire. Put it on a board, lay a large dish I with a heavy weight upon it, and let it remain until cold. Brush over with liquid glaze, and garnish with very stiff aspic jelly cut into cubes, diamonds, &c. If preferred, good veal forcemeat may be used instead of the egg ' forcemeat, and the truflJes may be omitted. Very good soup may be made of the liquor in which the veal was stewed. Time, two hours to simmer the veal the first time, three hours the second. Probable cost, 14s. Sufficient for a luncheon or supper dish. Veal Collops (a I'lndienne). See Indian Veal Collops. Veal Collops, Braised. Cut about a pound of the fillet of veal into neat rounds haK an inch thick and about the size of a crown piece. Pick the leaves from a handful of parslejr, wash them and chop them small, then mix with them a minced shallot and a small bunch of chives. Butter a stewpan thickly, sprinkle some of the herbs into it, and place in it alternate layers of veal and herbs until all the ingredients are used. Season each layer of veal with salt and pepper, and add a small slice of butter or a tea-spoonful of olive oil occasionally. Cover the whole with slices of bacon, and lay a round of oiled paper on the top. Put the lid on the stewpan, put a few red-hot cinders upon it (if this can be done), and stew the veal as gently as possible over a slow fire till it is tender. Arrange the pieces of veal in a dish. Half a glassful of light wine should be poured in when the veal is haK dressed. Put a Little brown sauce into the stewpan, let it boil, and pour it over the collops. Veal Collops, Made with Dressed Veal. Take the remains of roast veal. Cut the meat into slices three-quarters of an inch thick, three inches long, and two inches across. Gash these with a sharp knife, and sprinkle upon them salt and cayenne, pounded mace, or gi-ated nutmeg. Cover them, and lay them aside till wanted. Break up the bones, and put them with the skin and trimmings of the meat into a saucepan. Cover with stock or water, and add an onion, a pinch of powdered mace, a few peppercorns, a small roll of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Let the gravy simmer till it is strong and pleasantly flavoirred. Thicken it, and, supposing there is half a pint of it, stir into it a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and two table-spoonfuls of sherry. Flour and fry the collops in hot fat, put them in a dish, the sauce over them, and serve. Fried rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. If hked, a few forcemeat balls may be interspersed with the meat in the dish, and three table- spoonfuls of thick cream, or two table-spoonfuls of milk beaten up with the yolk of an egg, may be stirred into the sauce. Time to fry the collops, about six minutes ; one hornto make the gravy. Veal Collops Made with Fresh Meat. No. 1. Veal collops should be taken from the shoulder or the fiUet. Cut the meat in slices half an inch thick, three inches long, and two broad. Flatten them with a cutletbat, and dredge them well with flour. Take as many rashers of bacon a quarter of an inch thick as there are slices of veal. Fry these in VEA 1038 ) VEA a saute-pan. Take them up, put them on a dish, and fry the veal in the fat which has come from the bacon. When it is nicely browned on both sides, place it neatly on a dish, and arrange the bacon round it. Pour the fat out of the pan, and dissolve a small slice of butter in it. Mix a little flour smoothly with this, and moisten graduallj' with a little stock or water. Let it boil till smooth, add salt and pepper, and pour it round the veal in the dish. Serve very hot. Time to fry the veal, about twenty minutes. No. 2. Cut the coUops as before. Rub them quickly over with a freshlycut shallot, and sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg upon them. Dip them in egg and bread-crumb, or in flour, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned on both sides. Drain them, and put them in a saucepan, pour over them as much stock as will cover them, add a small roll of lemon-rind, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and an onion, and let them simmer gently tiU done enough. Put them on a hot dish, strain the gravy upon them, and serve. Time to simmer the veal, half an hour. No. 3. Divide the veal into slices as before, and take an equal number of thin rashers of bacon of the same shape and size. Lay the bacon on the veal, cover with a thin layer of veal forcemeat, sprinkle a little cayenne upon this, and roU up the collops tightly. Skewer each one firmly, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, or flour them weU, and fry them in hot fat till they are equally and Ughtly browned. Put them on a hot dish before the fire. Pour off the fat in which they were fried, and dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the pan. Mix a little flour smoothly with it, and add as much stock or water as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream, together with a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace for seasoning, and a little lemon-juice. Pour the sauce over the meat, and serve very hot. Time to fry the collops, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, veal, Is. per pound. Veal Collops, Minced (made with cold meat) . Take the remains of cold dressed veal. With a pound and a haH of veal, freed from skin and gristle, mix half a pound of lean ham or tongue. Cut the meat into small pieces, mince finely, and season with a pinch of cayenne, half a small nutmeg grated, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, the grated rind and strained juice of a small lemon, and a few drops of anchovy. Moisten the mixture with a slice of fresh butter clarified, and a spoonful or two of strong stock, and let it form a stiff paste. Make this into neat round coUops, brush each one with clarified butter, dredge flour upon it, then dip it in egg and seasoned bread-crumbs : repeat this operation twice. Put the collops in a baking-dish. Place a small piece ot outter upon each, and bake in a quicli: oven. Vhen lightly browned, serve them in a circle on a hot dish with cold tartar sauce in the centre (see Tartar Sauce). Time to bake the collops, a quarter of an hour. Veal Collops, Scotch. No. i. Cut the veal into small round coUops half an inch thick and about three inches across. Beat them with a cutlet-bat to flatten them, and sprinkle upon them salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg, or if preferred dip them in egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan over a gentle fire. Pry the collops in this tin they are equally and lightly browned. Drain them, lift them into a hot dish, and pour over them a little good brown sauce seasoned rather highly, and flavoured with lemon- juice. Serve very hot with thin slices of bacon round the dish. Time to fry the collops, about four minutes. No. 2. Fry the collops as above. Lift them upon a hot dish before the fire. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the saucepan, and as it melts mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly with it. Stir it for two or three minutes, then add gradually as much stock made from bones as wiU make the sauce of the consistency of cream. Put in also an anchovy and haH a dozen button mushrooms chopped small. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes, then add a little salt and white pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the fried collops. Let them simmer -without boiling for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve them in a hot dish with the gravy poured over, and toasted bacon round them. Time, four minutes to fry the collops, ten minutes to simmer them in the gravy. Probable cost, veal, Is. per pound. Veal Cones. Mince the veal with a little ham or tongue, and form it into a paste as for Veal Collops, Minced. If liked, this paste may be moistened with cream instead of stock. Form it into cones about three inches high. Brush these over with beaten egg, dredge bread-crumbs thickly upon them, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned, or bake them in a brisk oven. Put a layer of fried bread-crumbs in a dish, place the cones upon them, and send tartar sauce, or if preferred brown sauce, to table with them. Veal Consomme for Making White Sauces. Rub the inside of a bright saucepan with a coarse towel briskly for a minute or two. Heat it a little, and rub it with butter. Lay in it two or three slices of lean ham or bacon, then add two pounds of the neck or knuckle of veal cut into pieces about four inches square. Pour upon it half a pint of stock made from bones. Place it on a brisk fire for about twenty minutes, or till the veal is very lightly browned. Probe it in several places with the point of a knife till the juice flows freely. Put it again on the fire till the gravy begins to thicken without being at aU coloured. Turn it over once or twice, pour upon it boiling stock made from bones in the proportion of a pint and a half of stock to a pound of meat. Let the liquor boil, throw in a little salt, and skim it well, then draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer the gravy very gently for about two hours. Strain it into a bowl, and when cold remove the fat from the siu-face. An onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three sticks of celery, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a blade of mace should be simmered with the gravy to flavour it. A few button mushrooms will greatly improve it, but they may be omitted. The bones of poultry may, if liked, be sub VEA ( 1039) VEA stituted for a portion of the veal. Time to simmer the gravy, about two hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Veal, Croquettes of. Eemove the skin, gristle, and sinew from some cold dressed veal. Mince it finely, and with one pound of veal mince four ounces of ham, tongue, or bacon. Season the mixture with salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg, and put it in a saucepan ; stir for a quarter of an hour over a gentle fire with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, one tablespoonful of thick cream, and one table-spoonful of very strong stock made from the bones and trimmings of the veal. Turn the preparation upon a dish, and spread it to a smooth layer about an inch thick. Let it get quite cold and stiff, then form it to the shape of small balls or corks. Egg and bread-crumb the croquettes, and leave them in a cool place for an houi- ; then egg and bread-crumb them again. Put them into a wire frying-basket, plunge them into boiling fat, and let them remain until they are brightly browned aU over. Drain them thoroughly, serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Veal Ciirry, Forcemeat Balls for. If liked, a few forcemeat baUs may be put into the cuny. To make them, boil an egg hard, pound the yoke in a mortar, mix with it some finely-grated bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, and a seasoning of curry powder or paste. Eub a small slice of fresh butter into the mixtui'c, form it into balls the size of small marbles. Throw them into fast-boiling water for a couple of minutes, and they will be ready for use. Veal Curry Made with Cold Dressed Veal. Take about two poimds of cold dressed veal, and cut it into neat pieces about a quarter of an inch thick. Slice four onions and one apple, and fry them in fat, turning them about till they are soft. Eub them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a table-spoonful of cuiiy paste or curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, a pinch of salt, and a little stock or water. Boil the sauce till it is smooth, put in the pieces of veal, let them heat gently in the sauce by the side of the ?fire for about twenty minutes. Dish the curry neatly, and send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Curry Made with. Fresh Meat. Veal may be ciu-ried whether it is cooked or not. The fresh meat is, of course, to be preferred, though the other is very good. To curry fresh veal, take about two pounds of veal from the breast or cutlets from the neck. Cut it into neat pieces convenient for serving, rub these over with cui-ry powder, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Take them up, put them into a saucepan with a pint of stock, and simmer them gently till tender. Slice a large onion, and mince an aj plc finely. Fry these in the fat in which the veal was fried till they are quite soft. Eub them patiently through a sieve, then mix with the pulp a tablespoonful of Captain "WTiite's curry paste, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. Add gradually the stock in -vrhich the veal has simmered, let the sauce boil up, put the cutlets in again, and simmer all together over a gentle fire for half an hour. Place the meat on a dish, pour the sauce over, and send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. If liked, a little lemon- juice may be used instead of the sour apple, and milk may be substituted for the veal stock. Some cooks put a clove of garlic into the curry, but this is a matter of taste. Time to simmer the veal, three-quartera of an hour in the stock and half an hour in the gravy. Probable cost, veal, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal, Cushion of. Braised (superior). The cushion of veal, or the twix, as it is called in French cookery-books, is simply that part of the leg which is covered by the udder. It should be separated from the imder part of the fillet with a sharp knife, and the udder should be left whole, closely adhering to the cushion in its original position. The sinewy parts may be cut away. Take the cushion thus prepared, and lard the fleshy portion evenly and neatly with strips of fat bacon. Butter a braisingpan, and cover the bottom with a layer of sliced vegetables (onions, carrots, celery, and herbs), put in the larded veal and any bones and trimmings of meat that may be at hand, pour in as much stock as will just touch the surface of the veal, and braise it very gently over a slow fire. Baste constantly with its own Liquor. When it is quite tender and mellow it is done enough. Take up the meat a quarter of an hour before it is to be served, drain it, and put it upon a baking-dish. Strain the gravy, and boil it down till it begins to thicken. Baste the veal liberally with this until it looks bright and shinjr, then serve it on a dish. Garnish with forcemeat balls and any kind of dressed vegetable, or three or four different kinds placed in alternate groups round the dish. Send tomato, Italian, cucumber, or celery sauce to table in a tureen, or a sauce prepared as follows : Thicken a pint of stock with a small lump of brown thickening, or failing this with a little butter and flour kneaded together and stirred quickly over a gentle fire till lightly browned. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is smooth and coats the spoon. Add a glassful of mushroom ketchup, a glassful of sherry or madeira, and a pinch of cayenne. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire and let it boil gently for about a quarter of an hour. Carefully remove the fat as it rises. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of IJebig's Extract of Meat in the sauce, and it will be ready for use. Endive, sorrel, and mushrooms may all be served with the dish. Time to braise the veal, about three hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal, Cushion of, Braised (another way) . Prepare the veal as in the last recipe, then, instead of larding it, make deep incisions in the fleshy portion of it, and fill these alternately with pieces of truffle or tongue. Cover the cushion with thin slices of fat bacon, and braise the veal according to the instructions already given. Serve with rich white sauce. Time to braise the veal, about three hours. Probable VEA ( 1040 ) VEA cost, veal, Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal Custard. Break three fresh eggs into a bowl, take out the specks, and beat them tin light. Stir into them gradually half a pint of boiling veal gravy, add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, a pinch of powdered mace, and a tea-spoonful of lightly-grated lemon-rind. Butter some cups, and three-parts fill them with the custard. Bake them in a gentle oven till they are set, then turn them upon a dish, and pour a little good veal gravy round them. If preferred, the custard may be baked in a small dish edged with pastry. Time to bake the custard, fifteen to twenty minutes. Veal Cutlets. Veal cutlets may either be cut from the best end of the neck, or what is called a veal cutlet may be taken from the fillet. Chops only are taken from the loin. If cut from the neck the chine-bone, gristle, and skin should be removed, and the upper part of the rib-bones shortened. After being trimmed, the meat should be beaten with a cutlet-bat to make it tender. A veal cutlet when trimmed weighs from six to eight ounces. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (another way). Take two or three cutlets about three-quarters of an inch thick from the best end of the neck of veal. Flatten them with the cutlet-bat, sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and fry them in butter or lard six minutes on each side. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside till cool. Take a sheet of stiflt paper for each cutlet. Trim the edges to make it as nearly as possible of the shape of the cutlet, and be careful to leave a tolerably wide margin for folding over. Oil the paper, lay on it a slice of bacon, a spoonful of sauce, the cutlet, another spoonful of sauce, and another slice of bacon. Double the edges of the paper all round that the sauce may not escape. When the cutlets are to be served, broil them over a very slow fire, and turn them over that they may be equally cooked. Serve them on a dish in the papers. The sauce with which they are to be covered may be made as follows: Thicken a pint of nicely-flavoured stock with an ounce of flour. Boil it tiU it is smooth. Strain it, put it back into the saucepan, and boil till it is reduced to half the quantity. Stir into it a little grated ham, a little parsley, half a tea- spoonful of minced shallots, one or two chopped mushrooms if they are to be had, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and keep stirring for a few minutes. The sauce should form a stiff jelly when cold, and if the stock of which it is made is not sufficiently strong for this a little gelatine may bo dissolved in it to make it so. Time to broil the cutlets, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (another way). Soak the cutlets in oil for an hour, and put into the oil a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thjone, a bay-leaf, a small onion finely minced, and a little pepper and salt. Drain and dry them. Lay each cutlet on a sheet of white paper which has been well saturated with oil, cover with bread-crumbs. divide the fluid in which they have been equally among the cutlets, and lay a slice of bacon upon each. Wrap the cutlets in stiff white paper, and fold the edges so that the juice cannot escape. Broil the cutlets some distance above a clear fire, and turn them that they may be equally cooked. Sometimes cutlets thus prepared are roasted before a gentle fire, instead of being broiled. Ravigote sauce, or good gravy, or a little lemon- juice, may be served with the cutlets, or they may be sent to table with their own sauce only. It is a good plan to interpose a piece of oiled paper between the paper envelope and the heated gridiron. Time to broil the cutlets, about twenty minutes. Veal Cutlets (another way). See Cutlets, Veal. Veal Cutlets (a la Dauphin). Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them on one side only, but all on the same side : lard them like a fricandeau, only let the bacon be cut finer ; let them be braised also in the same manner as a fiicandeau ; then reduce the liquor in which they have been stewed, with which you glaze them. Serve up with either endive or sorrel. Ude. Veal Cutlets (a la Financiere). Take the best end of a neck of veal. Saw off the rib-bones so as to make the cutlets about three inches long, and the chine-bone, and divide the meat into cutlets of an even thickness. Trim them neatly, flatten them with the cutlet-bat, and lard through the lean part evenly and closely with quarter-inch strips of fat bacon. Line the bottom of a small stewpan with sliced caiTot, onion, and celery, and add a bunch of herbs and an onion stuck with six cloves. Lay tlie cutlets upon the vegetables, pour upon them as much stock or water as will barely touch the surface of the veal, and cover the meat with a round of oiled paper. Place the stewpan on a gentle fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the cutlets are tender. Baste frequently with the liquor in the pan. Take up the cutlets, and put them on a dish with the larded side uppermost. Strain the stock in which they were stewed. Thicken with a small piece of brown thickening. Let it simmer by the side of the fire that it may throw up the grease, which should be carefully removed. Stir into the sauce a wine-glassful of ketchup, a wine-glassful of shen-y or madeira, and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the sauce round the veal cutlets, and serve very hot. Stewed mushrooms, or truffles, or different kinds of dressed vegetables, may be served with this dish. Time to simmer the cutlets, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, veal. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (a la Maintenon, or En Papillotes). This mode of dressing cutlets is said to have been invented by Madame de Maintenon, Louis XIV.' s favourite, to tempt the failing appetite of the king when he was advanced in age. Take some cutlets from the best end of the neck of veal. Saw off the chine-bone, trim away the skin and gristle, shorten the rib-bones, and pare away the meat from the tip of the VEA ( 1011 ) VEA bones. Fry the cutlets in butter or lard till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside. Put a small bunch of sweet herbs into a stewpan with a little minced shallot, a roll of thin lemonrind, and a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Pour upon these ingTedients a pint of strong veal stock, or veal stock with a little gelatine dissolved in it. Add salt and pepper as required, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Take up the cutlets, and set them aside to cool ; strain the liquor, and set that aside also. It ought to form a stiff jelly when cold. AVhen the cutlets are wanted, take as many sheets of stiff white paper as there are cutlets. Cut away the comers to give them something of the shape of a heart, but leave them sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets. Oil the paper on both sides. Place a cutlet on each paper, spread a little of the sauce upon it, then fold it in the paper, and twist the edges securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil the cutlets thus enclosed in paper over a gentle fire, or, if preferred, place them in a brisk oven till they are heated thoroughly, and the envelopes are lightly browned. Dish them in the i apers with fried par.sley as a garnish. Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter of an hour. To broil them, a quarter of an h3ur. Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 2d. Veal Cutlets (a la Venitienne) . Cut the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, trim these in the usual waj-, and flatten them with the cutlet-bat. ]Mince finely half a pint of mushrooms, and mix with them two shallots, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, and a little pepper. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, add a quarter of a pound of fat bacon cut into dice, and the minced herbs, &c. Stew all gently together till the mushrooms are tender ; put in the cutlets with as much white stock as will barely cover them, and let all simmer very gently till they are done enough. Add a spoonful of white thickening, and carefully remove the fat as it rises. A few minutes before the veal is to be served add the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cream to the sauce. Mix in a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice and a pinch of cayenne. Place the cutlets on a dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and serve verjhot. Send sorrel or tomatoes, or any dressed vegetables, to table as an accompaniment. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to stew the cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Veal Cutlets (a la Zingara). Take a tolerably thick slice from the fillet of veal. Cut it into round pieces convenient for serving, trim these neatly, and fry them in a stewpan with hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned. Pour off the fat, and pour upon the cutlets as much brown sauce as will cover them. Put into the saucepan with them two ounces of grated ham, an onion stuck with one clove, a large carrot grated, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer all gently together over a slow fire till the cutlets are tender. Take them up, and keep them hot. Have already prepared as many slices of lean ham or of cold tongue as there are cutlets ; they should be trimmed'to the 71 same shape and size. Frj' these in butter for five minutes. Dish the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish with a slice of ham or tongue between each. Strain the sauce, and servo it in the centre of the dish. Time to stew the cutlets, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, veal, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (a I'ltalienne). Cut a slice of lean veal from the fillet into neat pieces, and beat these with a cutlet-bat. Mince finely a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bayleaf. Fry the herbs in butter, and be careful that they do not acquire any colour. Brush the cutlets with beaten egg, lay the fried herbs upon them, and sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs upon these. Let them remain untouched for an hour ; then repeat the process. Fry the cutlets in butter over a gentle fire till they are sufficiently cooked and brightly browned. Send to table with them a sauce prepared as follows : Mince a handful of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, and one shallot. Fry these ingredients in a little salad oil over a gentle fire, and stir briskly to keep them from acquiring any colour. Pour upon them half a pint of bro-rni sauce, and add a wine-glassful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a few fresh mushrooms finely minced, if they arc to be had. Let the sauce boil ; simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease, skim it, and it will be ready for use. A glassful of sherrj' or madeira will much improve this sauce. The sauce should of course be prepared before the cutlets are fried. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets and Celery. Divide the best end of a neck of veal into neat cutlets. Trim these in the usual waj', and beat them with a cutlet-bat. Wash four heads of celery, and cut them into neat pieces. Put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water slightly salted, add a blade of mace, let them boil quickly for ten minutes, then drain them. La}the celery at the bottom of a saucepan, add the cutlets and a little salt and pej per, and pour over them as much veal stock made from the bones and trimmings of the cutlets as will barely cover them. Let them simmer gently till tender. Take up the cutlets, and mix with the celery, now reduced to pulp, a quarter of a pint of milk or cream and a thickening of flour and butter. Stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes, pour it over the cutlets, and serve immediately. A little stewed onion may be put with the celery if liked, but this is a matter of taste. Garnish the dish with veal, forcemeat balls, and sliced lemon. Time to stew the cutlets, about threequarters of an hour. Veal Cutlets and Tomatoes. Cut a slice of veal from the fillet half an inch thick, and weighing about a pound. Cut it into six pieces, and dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour upon them. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, and let them remain until they are brightly browned on both sides. Put with them a small slice of loan ham cut into dice, one small onion, four large ripe tomatoes, two anchovies cleaned and VEA ( 1042 ) VEA pounded to paste, the strained juice of half a large lemon, and a little salt, pepper, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. A wine-glassful of sherry or madeira will greatly improve the gravy. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the ingredients as gently as possible till the veal is quite tender. Remember to remove the sciun as it rises, and shake the saucepan frequently in order to keep the contents from burning. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Veal Cutlets, Bread-crumbed and Broiled. Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets. Saw off the chine-bone, shorten the rib-bones, trim the cutlets neatly, and flatten them. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them. Brush them over first with clarified butter or oil, then with beaten egg ; dip them in bread-crumbs, once more into oil, and then into the bread-crumbs again. Broil over a clear fire of a moderate heat, and turn them that they may be equally cooked on both sides. When they are brightly browned take them up, arrange them on a dish alternately with rashers of ham or bacon, and send good gravy, or tomato, or any piquant sauce to table with them. Time to broil the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Broiled (a I'ltalienne). Take the best part of a neck of veal : cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and jDaro them nicely, powder over a little salt and pepper, take the yolk of an egg, and with a paste-brush rub the cutlets with part of the egg, then dip them first in the bread-crumbs, then in melted butter, and afterwards in the crumbs of bread again ; give them a good form, and broil them on a slow fii-e, that they may get a fine bro-wTi colour. Serve with a brown Italian sauce, Spanish sauce, or gravy. Veal Cutlets, Broiled, Plain. Divide the best end of a neck of veal into neat cutlets, allowing one bone to each. Trim these neatly, cut away the chine-bone, shorten the ribbones, and flatten the cutlets with a cutlet-bat. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides, brush them over shghtly with oil, and broil on a gridiron over a clear slow fire till they are nicely browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish, with a few slices of ham or bacon on a separate dish. Good brown gravy, or tomato or any piquant sauce, may be sent to table with veal cutlets. Time to broil the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Curried. Cut one pound of veal from the fiUet into neat squares convenient for serving, and free from skin, bone, gristle, or fat. Beat these well, and dip them twice into beaten egg and bread-crumbs seasoned with ciu-ry powder. Fry in a little butter over a gentle fire, and turn them that they may be equally cooked. Put them into a dish, and pour some good curry sauce round them. Serve very hot'. If hked, the cutlets may be broiled instead of being fried, and then they will require only to be brushed over with clarified butter, and to have curry powder sprinkled upon them instead of being dipped into the beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. The curry sauce may be prepared as follows : Slice two large onions, and steam them in butter in a closely-covered saucepan till they are soft without being at all coloured. Add a sour apple pared, cored, and minced, and replace the saucepan upon the fire tiU this also is tender. Hub the ingredients through a sieve, and mix the pulp with a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and half a pint of stock. Simmer the sauce for twenty minutes, and it wiU be ready for serving. If this sauce is too pungent, a spoonful of curry paste may be stirred into half a pint of plain gravy made in the pan in which the cutlets were fried. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fourteen minutes. Veal Cutlets, Farce of. Take some cutlets of an even thickness from the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in the usual way, flatten them, and spread over each one a covering of good veal forcemeat. Roll the meat round the bone, put a thin slice of fat bacon over each cutlet, and bind it with twine to prevent the forcemeat escaping. Butter a stewpan, and place a bed of sliced vegetables carrot, turnip, onions, and celery in the bottom. Lay the stuffed cutlets on these, and pour uj)on them as much stock as wiU half cover them. Lot them simmer as gently as possible till quite tender. Take them up, place them in a circle on a dish, strain the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the cutlets, about two hours. Veal Cutlets, Pried. Take the cutlets from the best end of the neck, and let them be about half an inch thick. Trim them neatly, flatten with a cleaver, and flour well. Fry them in butter or good dripping until they are cooked through. AVhen brown on one side tm-n them upon the other. Pour away the fat, and dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the pan, stir a dessert-spoonful of flour into this, and when it is quite smooth and brown add very gradually a cupful of boiling gravy which has been made by stewing the trinunings of the veal very gently for an hour or more with a little water, a small roll of lemon-rind, an onion, half a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley and thjTne, and a little pepper and salt. This sauce may, if liked, be flavoured with a little lemonjuice or walnut pickle, or with a few mushrooms. Some people would scarcely care for veal cutlets unless thej were accompanied by mushroom sauce. Serve the cutlets on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. A few fried forcemeat balls and some fried rashers of bacon should be served with them. The veal may be taken from the fillet instead of the neck, and then the meat should be cut into neat round pieces convenient for serving. Time to fry cutlets half an inch thick, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Fried (another way). Cut a slice of lean veal about the third of an inch thick from the fillet. Di -ide this into neat cutlets convenient for serAong. Prepare VEA ( 1043 ) VEA some finely-grated bread-crumbs, season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and add a table-spoonful of parsley which has been scalded and finely minced. Fry the cutlets in butter or dripping till they are cooked through and nicely browned, then serve as in the last recipe. Time to fry the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes. Veal Cutlets, Fried ( a la Maintenon). Cat three or four cutlets from the best end of a neck of veal. Trim them neatly in the usual way, dip them into clarified butter, and then into seasoned bread-crumbs. Wrap each one in thick white paper which has been saturated in oil, and fold the edges lightly and securely that the gravy may not escape. Put the cutlets into plenty of hot fat, and let them simmer very gently for an hour. Drain them on a sieve, and serve very hot. The seasoned breadcrumbs may be prepared as follows : Take an ounce of lightly-grated bread-crmnbs and mix with them two ounces of fat bacon minced, a large mushi-oom chopped small, half a teaspoonful of minced shallot, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, a tea-si30onful of grated lemonrind, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a pinch of powdered herbs, and a little salt and white pepper. ]\Iix these ingredients thoroughly, and they will be ready for use. Time to sinmier the cutlets in the fat, one hour. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per poimd. Veal Cutlets, Gravy for. Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan, barely cover them with cold water, and add (for a pint of water) a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, a small roll of thin lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, and a little pepper. A little bacon-rind may be added if it is at hand. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the stock gently till it is strong and nicely flavoured. Strain it, thicken with brown thickening, and let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has tlirown up the grease. If the cutlets have been fried, lift them from the pan, and pour away the fat, leaving the brown gra y at the bottom. Pour the thickened sauce upon this gravy, stir well, boil it a few minutes, add a little salt if required, and then strain it over the meat. A few spoonfuls of cream may be added to the gravy if liked. Time, one hour to simmer the trimmings of veal. Veal Cutlets, Larded. Take some cutlets of an equal thickness fi'om the best end of a neck of veal. Trim these neatly, flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and lard the lean part with thin strips of fat bacon, with which, for a superlative dish, strips of red tongue and black trufile may be intermixed. Put the cutlets into a saucepan, and barely cover them with nicelyflavoured stock to which a glassful of light wine has been added. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the cutlets sirmner gently tmtil they are quite tender. Drain the gravy from them, and press them between two dishes with a weight upon them till they are cold. Strain the gravy, fiee it from fat, and boil quickly till it is considerably reduced. When the cutlets are to bo served, heat them in the oven, dish them in a circle, pour the gi'a%'y over them, and place French beans, or mushrooms, turnip, sorrel, or endive puree in the centre. Time to stew the cutlets, according to thickness. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets Larded and Served Cold (Superlative). Take six or eight thick veal cutlets, and prepare them as in the last recipe. Put them between two dishes, and press them till cold; then trim them neatly, and brush them over twice with liqmd glaze. Serve on a dish, and garnish with aspic jelly and Montpellier butter. They will have a good appearance arranged as follows : Boil some rice in water till it is tender and quite dry, then pound it, and press it into a flat round mould. When it is cold and stiff turn it out, place it in the centre of a dish, cover with lontpellier butter, arrange the cutlets round it with the bones inward, and put a little chopped aspic jelly between each one. Ornament the top of the rice with Montpellier butter and aspic jelly, fill the bottom of the dish with chopped aspic, and serve. Veal Cutlets made from Cold Dressed Veal. Take a pound and a haM of cold veal free from skin or gristle, and half a pound of lean ham or tongue. Mince the meat finely, pound it in a mortar, season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and add a teaspoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, two table spoonfuls of strong veal gravy, the grated rind and juice of a small lemon, and a quarter of a pound of clarified butter. Half a cupful of rice boiled in milk till soft and pounded may be added if liked, and a little yolk of egg may be used to bind the mixture together. Form the paste into cutlets ; dip these into clarified butter, dredge flour upon them, and egg and bread-crumb them twice. Fry them in hot fat, or bake them in a brisk oven, basting them two or three times whilst they are there. Send tartar sauce or any other piquant sauce to table with them. A little good stock thickened with brown thickening, and flavoured with lemon- juice or lemon pickle, wiU answer the purpose, when the ingredients for tartar sauce cannot be procured. Time to fry the cutlets, eight to ten minutes ; to bake them, about a quarter of an hour. Veal Cutlets, Roasted (a la Maintenon). Take a cutlet of veal from the fillet. Cut it into neat pieces, and flatten these with a cutletbat. Spread upon them a httle good veal forcemeat, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and put them on a skewer. Cover them evenly with oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire. Send piquant sauce to table with them. Veal Cutlets, Russian Mode of Dressing. Make a little Russian sauce in a quantity sufiicient to coat the cutlets upon one side only to the thiclmess of half an iYich. This sauce may be made in the following proportions. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small saucepan, and put with it a stick of horseradish grated, a finely-minced shallot, a pinch of powdered herbs, a spoonful of grated ham, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of sherry, a small lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan VEA ( 1044 ) VEA closcl)-, and let its contents simmer gently over a slow fire till the* flavour of the ingredients is extracted. Add a quarter of a pint of rich white sauce, and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire tiU it begins to thicken, then strain it off for use. Trim the cutlets, flatten them with a cutlet]) .1, and fry on both sides to a light brown. They will requii-e about twelve minutes. Let them get cold, then spread a coating of the Russian sauce upon one side of each. Brush them over with egg, and sprinkle upon them fried bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Place them side by side in a single layer in a buttered baking-dish, and a few minutes before they are to be served heat them in a brisk oven. Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, pour a little tomato sauce into the centre, and serve very hot. Any kind of dressed vegetable may be served as an accompaniment. Time to heat the cutlets, about ten minutes. Veal Cutlets, Stewed. Cut a piece of the fillet into three parts, and trim from them all the skin. Stew all the trimmings with carrot and onions to make a light gravy, then add a little broth or warm water ; add spice if approved, put in the pieces of veal, and stew them for two hours. Thicken the gravy, and pour it over the cutlets. Veal Cutlets, with Maitre d' Hotel Butter. For one pound of cutlets prepare maitre d'hotel butter as follows : Wash half an ounce of parsley, chop small, wrap it in the corner of a cloth, dip it in cold spring water, and wring the moisture from it. Put it into a basin with three ounces of butter, a dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, and a little pepper and salt. Beat it briskly near the fire tiU the butter is like cream, and be careful that the heat of the fire does not melt ihe butter, or it wdU be oily. Trim and broil some veal cutlets in the usual way {seeYcul Cutlets, Broiled, Plain). Put the butter on a dish, place the cutlets upon it, and serve very hot. Veal Cutlets, with Mushrooms. Take a slice or more of veal for cutlets from the fillet, and for every pound of veal allow a handful of mushrooms. Cleanse and trim them, and put them into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of water, and a pinch of salt for one pound of mushrooms. Shake them in the liquor for a few minutes, then add a slice of fresh butter, put them on a clear fire, and let them remain for five minutes, shaking the saucepan occasionally. Turn them into a dish, cover closely, and leave them till wanted. Divide the veal into neat cutlets of a round or heart shape. Sprinkle a httle pepper and salt upon them, and cither dredge them with flour or egg and bread-crumb them, and fiy them in butter or fat till they are equally and brightly browned. Put them on a plate, and keep them hot. Drain oft" half the fat in the pan, and mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with the remainder. Moisten gradually with a small tea-cupful of boiling stock or water, add the prepared mushrooms and a table-spoonful of ketchup. Let the sauce boil gently for three or four minutes. Put the fried cutlets on a dish alternately with slices of fried bacon or ham ; place the mushrooms round, pour the sauce over all, and serve. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fifteen minutes. Veal Cutlets with Sorrel. Take some cutlets of an even thickness from the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in the usual way, and fry in a little butter tiU they arc lightly browned on both sides. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, pour over as much nicely-flavoured veal gravy as will cover them, and let them simmer gently tUl done enough. A glassful of light wine may be added if hked. Dish the cutlets in a circle, put some sorrel puree into the centre of the dish, and serve the cutlets with the gravy in which they were stewed in a tureen. The puree may be prepared as follows : Wash a peck of fi-esh green sorrel in plenty of water, and put it into a stewpan with a pint of water and a pinch of salt. Stir it over the fire for a quarter of an hour or untU dissolved, then drain the water from it. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mix two ounces of flour smoothly with it. Stir it over the fire for three minutes. Moisten with a pint of gravy, add the sorrel and a little pepper and salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for twenty minutes. Rub it through a hair sieve, make the pui'ce hot, and it will be ready for use. Veal Cutlets without Bone (London fashion). Properly speaking, these cutlets ought to be made from the fleshy part of the neck, which has been taken out whole so as to form a sausage-shaped roll, and then cut in slices the third of an inch thick. Those who object to this may use a cutlet taken from the fillet instead. Divide the meat into neat slices. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle finelygrated and savourj bread-crumbs upon them, or, if preferred, omit the egg and bread-crumbs, and simply dredge flour upon them, and fry them in butter or lard till they are lightly browned on both sides. Toast separately ay many slices of bacon as there are cutlets. Arrange the cutlets and the bacon alternately in a circle round a hot dish, and pour into the centre a sauce prepared as follows : Put a quarter of a pint of broNvn sauce into a saucepan. Let it boil, then stir into it a table-spoonful of ketchup, a glassful of sherry or madeii-a, the strained juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute, and it will be ready for serving. When brown thickening is not at hand a little may be made by kneading together equal proportions of butter and flour, then stirring the paste quickly over a slow fire for three minutes, and moistening it with stock. If preferred, good brown mushroom sauce may be used instead. Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. Veal, Fillet of. The fillet is one of the prime joints of veal. It is taken from the leg above the knuckle. The French divide it into three parts the fat fleshy piece inside the thigh to which the udder is attached in a cow VEA ( 1045 ) VEA calf and of which fricandeau is made, tho under noix used for forcemeat, pies, &c., and the centre noix for sauce, &c. As veal becomes tainted very quickly, the udder should be examined and wiped dry every day, and the kernel should bo removed from the fat. The most usual mode of dressing a fiUet of veal is to stuff and roast it, though it can bo either boiled or braised. Probable cost, Is. Id. per pound. Veal, Fillet of (au bechamel second dressing). Tho remains of a dressed fillet of veal may be served in this way. Cut a portion of meat from the centre of the veal, leaving a goodly portion untouched from which slices may be cut. Trim the joint, fill up any cracks or cuts there may be in it with forcemeat, and bind it securely. Put it into the oven for an hour or more till it is heated throughout, and be careful to baste liberally for fear it should be dry. Meanwhile mince finely the veal that was taken from the fillet, mix a little forcemeat with it, and stir into it as much good white sauce as wiU moisten it well. Put this mince into the hollow in the fillet, cover with finelygrated bread-crumbs, and drop a little clarified butter upon the crumbs. Place the veal again in the oven tiU tho crumbs are brightly browned, and serve the veal on a hot dish, with bechamel or good white sauce round it. Time, one hour and a half. Veal, Fillet of. Boiled. Take a small and white fiUet of veal for this purpose. Remove the bone, fill its space with good veal forcemeat, and bind the veal securely with tape. Put a few skewers at the bottom of the stewpan to keep the veal from sticking ; lay it on these, and pour over it as much cold weak stock, milk and water, or even water only, as will barely cover it. Let it heat slowly and simmer verj- gently indeed until it is done enough. The more gently it is simmered the better it wiU be. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. AVhen done enough, take it up, put it on a hot dish, garnish with lemon, and send oyster, celery, or white sauce to table with it; or a sauce made by thickening a little of the stock in which it was boiled with white thickening, seasoning with salt, pepper, and mace, and flavoiiring -vs-ith lemon-juice and sherry. A boiled tongue should accompany this dish, which if served alone is in danger of being considered insipid. Time to simmer a fiUet of veal weighing six pounds, three hours. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Veal, Fillet of, Boiled, (another way). Remove the bone, and fill the centre with .stuffing similar to that used for boiled turkey. Allow one quarter of an hour to the pound, and twenty minutes over, for the boiling of this joint. After the water boils, skim carefully, and let it only simmer, keeping the meat covered by adding hot water, or it will become brown. The beauty of this dish depends on delicacy in the colour of the meat. A sauce must be formed by taking out a pint of the broth which has been made in boiling ; this must be thickened ath good cream, butter, and flour, and flavoured with mu.shroom ketchup, and mushroom powder or button mushi-ooms. If cream be not at hand for thickening the broth, a sauce may be made by mingling the yolks of two eggs with flour, butter, and broth. Veal, Fillet of (French way). Trim, stuff, and truss a fillet of veal as directed for Veal, Fillet of, Roasted. If liked, the surface and the sides of the fillet may be larded with strips of fat bacon. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with sliced vegetables and with thin slices of bacon or ham. Lay the veal on this, moisten with a pint of stock or water, lay slices of bacon iipon it, cover closely, and if possible put live embers on the hd of the pan, and let it braise very gently over a slow fire till tender. Baste frequently with the gravy. Take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly for a few minutes ; then baste the meat with it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve on a hot dish, and send any kind of dressed vegetable to table with it, together with brown ItaHan or tomato sauce as an accompaniment. If liked, the gravy in which it was stewed may be simply strained and thickened with brown thickening, then flavoured with pepper, lemon- juice, and light wine; and to enrich it oysters or stewed mushrooms may be added. Time to stew the veal, at least half an hour to each pound. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per pound. Veal, Fillet of, Roasted. Have the fillet cut to the size required. Remove the bone, and fiU the cavity with good veal forcemeat {see Veal Forcemeat) . Cut the flap slightly, and lay forcemeat under it. Draw the flap round, skewer the veal, bind it firmly into a round shape, skewer the skin which has been sent with the veal over the forcemeat and the fat, flour the fillet, and put it down at some distance from the fire, then draw it gradually nearer till done enough, and basto frequently. Let the outside be well browned, though it must not be burnt. Remove the skin, skewers, and tape, and put the veal on a hot dish. Pour melted butter coloured with browTiing or some good veal gra\-y {see Veal, Gravy for) roimd it, and garnish with sliced lemon. A pig's cheek, a boiled tongue, or small pieces of bacon or ham should be served witli roast veal. It is always well to prepare plenty of stuffing, so that it may be us d to flavour a mince if the remains of the veal are served in that form. As it is a little difficult to keep the stuffing in the veal when it is roasted before the fire, manycooks prefer to bake it in a moderate oven. "When this plan is adopted the veal must be basted frequently. The veal should be roasted slowly, or the outside will be burnt before the meat is done through, and underdone veal is most unwholesome. Time to roast th*; veal, twenty-eight minutes to tho pound; half an hour to the pound in frosty weather. Probable cost, Is. Id. per pound. Veal, Fillet of. Roasted (another way). The fillet of veal is most commonly roasted, being previously stuffed either in the flap or in the space in the centre from which the bone was taken. Veal, being a dry meat, requires constant basting either with butter, beef dripping, or suet. It must be roasted thorough I tj VEA ( 1046 ) VEA (underdone veal being neither wholesome nor agreeable), and of a nice brown. When dished, half a pint of melted butter, sometimes mixed with a brown gra,vy, is poured over it. Curry sauce in a tureen may also be served with it. Bacon, or fried pork sausage-balls, with greens are among the accompaniments of roasted veal. Veal, Fillet of, with. Oysters or Muslirooins. Remove the bono from a fillet of veal, and, without stuffing it, bind it very tightly with tape, so that there may be no hollow left in the centre. Eoast ia the usual way. Whilst it is before the fire, take about two dozen oysters, and scald them in their liquor. Beard them, and simmer the beards in about half a pint of good veal stock. Strain the sauce, add to it the oyster liquor and an equal quantity of cream or mUk, and boil with a small piece of white thickening, together with a few drops of anchovy and a little cayenne, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. Take up the veal, quickly cut out about a pound from the centre, and keep the meat hot in the oven. Mince the slice which has been cut out finely with the oysters, put them into the sauce, and pour the whole into the cavity in the veal. Serve very hot. If Uked, mushrooms stewed in butter may be substituted for the oysters. Veal Forcemeat. No. l. Shred finely half a poimd of suet, free from skin and fibre. Mix with it half a pound of bread-crumbs cribbled through a colander, the rind of half a small lemon grated, one tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, two small blades of mace pounded. Bind the mixture together with yolk of egg to which a little milk may be added when economy is a consideration. No. 2. Chop finely a quarter of a pound of beef suet with two ounces of lean raw ham and five ounces of bread-crumbs rubbed thi'ough a colander. Add a quarter of the thin rind of a lemon chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs if fresh if very dry, two tea-spoonfuls and half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne or white pepper. Bind the mixture together with two whole eggs. No. 3. Take half a pound of veal, and a quarter of a poimd of fat bacon. Cut these into strips, and scrape them with the back of a knife, then pound them well in a mortar, and pass the preparation through a sieve. Mix with it the crumb of half a roll, half a drachm of powdered mace, the same quantity of grated nutmeg, a dessertspoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and mushrooms, with a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, continually pounding them in the mortar, bind them together with two well-beaten eggs, and poach a small quantity in boiling water. \Vhen the preparation is firm, light, and delicately flavoured it will be ready for use. This forcemeat may be used on all occasions, for pies, balls, &c. When forcemeat is to be served in the form of balls, mould it to the size and shape of large marbles, put these into hot fat over the fire, and turn them about for a few minutes till they are lightly browned. Place them on a sheet of blotting paper before the fire to di-ain off the fat. Vhen dry they are ready for serving. Veal Forcemeat, Roll of. Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, three ounces of fat bacon, and two ounces of lean ham. Cut the meat in long slices, scrape with a knife, and pound it in a mortar. Mix with it one ounce of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessertspoonful of baked flom-, the grated rind of half a small lemon, haH a shallot finely minced, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper. Add the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Mould the mixture to the shape of a roll. Brush over with the white of the egg which was left untouched, dredge baked flour upon it, roll it in well-oiled paper, tie it in a cloth, and steam over fast-boiling water tiQ done enough. Turn the roU upon a hot dish, pour a little nicely-flavoured brown sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to steam the roll, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Fricandeau of. For this dish a segment of veal, larded and stewed, with bacon, sliced vegetables, sweet herbs, and seasonings we are indebted to the age of Leo X. Its inventor was Jean do Careme (John of Lent), who received the nickname in consequence of a celebrated soupe inaigre which he made for the Pope, his master. He was the direct ancestor of tlic fnnious Careme, who was FEICANDEAU OF VEAL. cook first to George IV., and afterwards to Baron Rothschild. Leo X., luxurious and magnificent in liis tastes, was far from narrowminded in his patronage of merit. He fostered the genius of Raphael, the painter, and encouraged also the genius which could discover a fricandeau. The following recipe will bo found excellent : Take about three pounds of the fat, fieshy side of a fillet of veal, of the best quality, or a slice about four inches thick. With one stroke of the knife cut it even, trim it into an oblong or oval shape, then lard thickly and evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Slice two carrots, two turnips, and two onions, and put these into the centre of a stewpan with two or three slices of bacon, the trimmings of the meat, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, and a little salt and white pepper. Put the fricandeau on the vegetables, and pour in about a pint of stock, or as much as will cover the bacon without touching the veal. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents come slowly to the bob, then stew very gently by the side of the fire till the meat is quite tender. Baste frequently with its VEA ( 1047 ) VEA liquor. A short time before it is to bo served take it up and put it into a well-hoated oven to crisp the bacon. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, boil quickly to glaze, and baste the fricandeau with it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve with the larded surface uppermost, in the centre of a puree of any vegetables that are in season sorrel, spinach, endive, asparagus, peas, &c. If Liked, the gravy may be simply strained, skimmed, and poured over the meat, and then the dish is fricandeau with gravy. Sometimes as a matter of economy the lean part of the best end of a large neck of veal is used instead of the prime part of the leg, and does nearly as well. Truffles, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms may all be served with this dish. Time to stew the fricandeau, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per pound. Veal, Fricandelles of. Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, and mince it finely with half its weight in suet freed from skin and fibre. Soak four rusks in mUk, then press the moisture thoroughly from them, and mix them with the minced meat. Season and flavour the preparation with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and finely-minced lemon-rind. A little onion or shallot may be added, if liked. Bind together with the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Divide it into three portions, and form these into balls. Drop them into fastboiling water, and let them remain for four minutes. Take them up, drain them, dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are nicely browned. Make some gravy with the bones and trimmings of the veal. Flavour this nicely, and thicken with brown thickening. Stew the balls in this gravy a short time before they are to be served, put them on a hot dish, pom- the gravy over, and garnish with slices of lemon. Time to stew the fricandelles, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Fricandelles of (another way). Prepare the fricandelle mixture as in the last recipe. Put it into a buttered dish which it will half fill, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. When the surface is lightly brown, pour over it a little gravy, stock, or milk, and let it bake twenty minutes longer. Pour ofE the gTSLvy which swims on the top, mix with it the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, again pour it upon the mince, place it in the oven for a few minutes, and serve. Veal, Fricassee of. Take two pounds, or more if required, of lean veal free from skin and bone. Cut this into small thick pieces convenient for serv'ing, and fry them in hot butter until the flesh is firm without having acquired any colour. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, add a small strip of thin lemon-rind, and gi-adually as much boiling white stock as will cover the meat. Let it simmer very gently till tender. Take out the lemonrind, flavour the gra.vj with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and mix with it a quarter of a pint of boihng cream. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, add gradually a little of the sauce (fii-st allowing it to cool for a minute or two), then add it carefully to the remainder. Let the saucepan remain near the fire for three or four minutes till the eggs are set, add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve immediately. A few fried rashers of bacon should be served with this dish. A pint of stewed mushrooms may be served with it or not. The remains of dressed veal may be served in this way. Time, about half an hour to simmer the veal. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per pound; Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Fricassee of (a German recipe). This is a dish for spring-time. Cut up a breast of veal, stew it till tender in water flavoured with a little salt, bay-leaves, and a bunch of mixed herbs. Boil a dozen crayfish, pick out the meat, and set it aside; stew the shells when pounded in two ounces of butter, and strain them. Make the crayfish, with the exception, of the tails, into balls with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, two eggs, half the crayfish, butter, and a little spice. Next boil some asparagus or caiiliflower till tender. Make a sauce of two ounces of butter beaten to cream; to which add the yolks of two or three eggs beaten up, two spoonfuls of flour, the rest of the crayfish butter, and as much of the liquor in which the vegetables were boiled, or broth, as will make it a thin sauce. Now put the meat, the vegetables, and tails into the sauce, together with the balls ; let aU simmer for ten minutes ; then take out the meat, boU the sauce a few minutes longer, and pour it over. Be careful to arrange the vegetables, fish, and balls with taste. A. von Kochheim. Veal, Fricassee of, with Sorrel. Cut up dressed veal into neat pieces free from skin, bone, or fat. Pick and wash a pint of freshly-gathered sorrel. Put it into boiling water for two minutes, lift it into cold water, drain, and cut it small. Put it into a stewpan containing a slice of butter dissolved. Add a little salt and white pepper, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, a salt-spoonful of finely-minced onion, and, very gradually, half a pint of milk. Let all simmer gently for haK an hour. Put in the pieces of veal and a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. Let the veal heat in the sauce without boiling. Beat the yolks of two eggs. Mix a little of the sauce with them, add them gradually to the rest, and shake the pan over the fire for a minute or two. Serve the preparation on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Veal, Gateau of, No. l. Take the remains of a roast fillet of veal and the ham that has been served with it, and cut them into neat thin slices. Line an earthenware mould with thin slices of fat bacon, and fill it with layers of ham and veal, intermixed with slices of hardboiled yolk of eggs. Sprinkle over each layer a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and finelyshred parsley, with a few truffles cut up small, if they can be had conveniently. Pour clarified butter over aU, then tie three or four folds of paper tightly over the top of the mould. Bake in a moderate oven, and tirm it out in a shape when cold. Time to bake, one hour. No. 2. Mince finely two pounds of calf's liver ?with six ounces of fat bacon and a small onion. VEA ( 1018 ) VEA Dissolve a slice of butter in a stewpan, put in the onion iind bacon, and when the latter begins to soften, put in the liver with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture over the fire till the liver loses its red appearance, turn it out to cool, and beat it to a paste. Add four well-beaten eggs with a few stewed mushrooms or truffles cut into pieces, if these are to be had. Line a basin with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the mince, and cover the top with bacon. Cover the basin closely, and bake the mince in the oven, or gently steam it over hot water till a skewer will pierce it easily. Let it remain till cold, trim neatly, and serve cut into slices. Veal, Godiveau (a kind of forcemeat). Take a quarter of a pound of lean veal free fiom skin and sinew and an equal weight of good beef suet. ISIince these very finely. Add a small bunch of parsley and a few chives chopped small, together with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pound the ingredients in a mortar till they form a smooth, firm paste, and place this on ice for an hour. Put it again into the mortar with three ounces of pure ice, and pound it till it looks soft and creamy. Roll it on the table with flour, divide it into small round balls about the size of marbles, and bake these on a baking-sheet in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the balls, five minutes. Veal, Goose. This very savoury dish, which is a favourite with many, may be made of breast of veal after the tendons or bones have been removed, or of the upper part of the flank of the loin, or of the skin of the best end of the neck which has been pared off with about an inch and a half of the flesh adhering to it. Lay the meat upon a table, cover with sage and onion stufling, such as is used for goose ; then roll it, bind securely with tape, and roast before a clear fire. When done enough place it upon a hot dish, and send good brown gravy and apple sauce to table with it. Veal Gravy, Endive with. Wash and clean twelve heads of endive, and beware of the worms which generally are found in the heai-t. After having taken off all the green part of the leaves, wash the endive again in two or three different waters, and blanch them to take off the bitter taste. Then throw them into cold water, and when quite cold squeeze them till there is no water left in them, then chop them very fine. Next' stew them in a quantity of gravy sufficient to cover them entirely, to which add a little salt and a very small lump of sugar to cover the bitter tart taste of the endive. Ascertain if they are done enough by squeezing a bit between two fingers ; if very tender they are done. Then add two spoonfuls of Spanish sauce reduced, arid use them either for entremets under poached eggs or for entrees, such as minces of mutton, fricandeaux, sweetbreads, fillets of fowl, &c. Veal, Gravy for. Take the bones and trimmings of the veal, and if the bones are large break them into small pieces. Put them into a saucepan, and pour over them as much cold water as will cover them. Supposing there is a quart of water, add a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme or marjoram, a quarter of the rind of a lemon thinly pared, a blade of mace, a pinch of pepper, and a few strip of bacon-rind if they are at hand. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the liquor gently till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, pour it into a bowl, and when cold remove the fat from the top. When wanted, thicken with a little brown thickening, and let it remain at the side of the fire till it has thrown up the fat. If brown thickening is not at hand, mix two table-spoonfuls of liour smoothly with a little cold water and a slice of butter, boil this with the stock, and add a little sugar-browning. Pour the fat from the pan under the veal, leaving the brown gravy untoiiched. Stir the sauce into the pan, dissolve a small lump of sugar in it, add a little salt, boil it up once more, and serve very hot. A little boihng cream may be added if liked. Time, one to two houi's to simmer the stock. Veal, Grenadin of. Prepare an equal number of neat pieces of lean veal seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and of slices of good bacon, together with a portion of good forcemeat. Line a small dish with a veal caul, and be careful to leave as much of the skin hanging over the sides as will cover the meat entirely. Fill the dish with alternate layers of bacon, veal, and forcemeat, and let bacon form the undermost and uppermost layers. ]\Iinced mushrooms and savoury herbs may be added or not. Fasten the caul over the meat, tie three or four folds of paper over the dish, and bake the grenadin in a moderately-heated oven. Turn it upon a dish, and send plenty of good brown gravy to table with it. Time to bake a small dish, about an hour. Veal, Grenadins of. Take a slice of veal from the fillet about an inch in thickness, and divide it into neat round pieces ; or if preferred the round piece of lean cut out of five or six chops from tlie best end of a neck or loin of veal may be used. Flatten the collops, and lard them on one side only very thickly with strips of fat bacon. Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into a stewpan with a pint and a half of cold water, a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a sprig of marjoram, an ounce of lean ham, a small lump of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and a little salt and white pepper. Let the sauce boil till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Skim frequently, and when it is done enough strain, let it get cold, and then remove the cake of fat from the top. Rub the bottom of a bright stewpan quickly across with garlic, dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in it, lay in the pieces of veal, the larded side uppermost, and let them remain until they are lightly browned. Pour in as much of the strained gravy as will just touch without coveiing the larding, and let the veal simmer gently till done enough. Skim the gravy, and baste the veal with the liquor frequently. Take out the veal, and put into the gravy a pint of young freshly-shelled green peas, with a small lump of white sugar. Leave the lid off the pan, and let the peas boil VEA ( 10-19 ) VEA for five minutes, then put in the veal, and let it simmer till the peas are done enough. Put the peas on a dish, place the coUops with the larding uppermost upon them, pour the gravy over all, and serve. If preferred, instead of green peas heing used, the veal may be dished upon a puree of mushrooms, dressed sorrel, or endive. Some cooks, instead of making the grenadins of uniform size, cut one large one to place in the centre, and form the rest of the meat into diamonds, to he arranged round it. Time, two hours to simmer the grenadins. Veal, Haricot. Take the best end of a small neck of veal. Shorten the bones, and either di -ide the meat into cutlets, or leave it whole. Put it into a ste\vpan, pour over it a pint of good brown gravy, and let it simmer gently until three parts di-essed. Boil in stock in a separate saucepan a pint of freslilygathered and shelled young peas, half a pint of carrots and turnips cut into shapes, a small cauliflower, half a dozen young onions, a sliced cucumber, a Ciibbage lettuce cut into quarters, a pound or two of young onions, or any suitable vegetables. When these are nearly tender, add a little salt and cayenne. Shortly before the haricot is to be served, put the vegetables with the veal," and let all simmer gently together for ten minutes. Put the veal on a dish, arrange the vegetables roimd it, and garnish with forcemeat balls. Send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. If more convenient, some of these vegetables may be omitted, and when boiling the vegetables it should be remembered that some kinds will need to boil longer than others, according to their nature and age. The appearance of the veal will be improved if it is brightly browned before being stewed, and a little acid will improve its flavoirr for many. Time to simmer the veal alone, about half an hour. Probable cost, veal. Is. per pound. Veal, Hashed. Any joint of veal not over-dressed may be hashed, and will be found excellent. Cut the meat into neat slices free from skin and gristle. Cover these, and put them aside till wanted. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter, dredge a little flour upon them, pom- over them half a pint of stock or water, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a little salt and white pepper. Let all simmer for a few minutes till the liquor is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the gravy, put the veal into it, let it simmer till it is hot without allowing it to boil, then serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sip2oets. Time, altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. Veal Imitation of Mock Tiirtle. Put three or four pounds of knuckle of veal into an earthenware pan with two calf's feet, two onions, each one stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, half a dozen allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Cover the ingredients with cold water, tie several folds of paper over the jar, put it in a weU-heated oven, and let it remain xmtil the meat is quite tender. Take it up. and let it get cold. Eemove the cake of fat from the top of the jelly, and cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, free from bone or skin. Put these into a stewpan with the jellied stock, a large spoonful of ketchup, and whatever seasoning is required. Let the preparation become quite hot, then add a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, and serve with forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs. If more convenient, cow heels may be used instead of calf's feet. Time to bake the meat, three to four hours. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Veal in Jelly (a breakfast or luncheon dish). Take two poimds of lean veal from the breast or fillet. Cut the veal into pieces an inch square and the ham into thin slices. Line a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the veal, and add a calf's foot, the veal bones broken up small, two onions, two carrots, a parsnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, two inches of lemon-rind, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a pint of veal stock or water into the bottom of the pan, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and let it simmer as gently as possible till the meat is tender. Take up the veal, and arrange it neatly in a mould. Strain the gravy through a jelly -bag, boil quickly for a few minutes, then pour it over the meat, and txirn it out when cold. Veal in Jelly (another way). Take the bones from a breast Qr fillet of veal, and cut it in slices an inch thick and the size and shape of the mould in which it is to be baked. Sjirinkle each slice with a savoury powder made by mixing two tea-spoonfuls of salt with one teaspoonful of white pepper, and one tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Pour a tea-cuiDful of veal stock or water in the bottom of the mould, and fill it with alternate layers of veal and tliin slices of ham : let veal form the undermost and uppermost layers. Press the meat down tightly with a plate or dish a trifle smaller than the top of the mould, so that the gravjmay run into it. Place a weight on the dish, and put it in a moderate oven till the veal is tender. Take it out, and let the weight remain upon it tiU it is cold. Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan with a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two blades of mace, two square inches of thin lemon-rind, half a salt-spoonful of peppercorns, and two quarts of water. Let the hquor boil, skim carefully, then simmer gently for three hours. Strain it, let it get cold, and clear it from fat. It ought to form a stiff jelly, but if not sufficiently firm it should either be boiled a little longer or it should have a little isinglass or gelatine dissolved in it. Mix a pint of this jelly with the gravy that flowed into the saucer which was laid upon the meat, add a tablespoonful of ketchup, and pour the liquor over the veal. Let it get cold and stift', then turn it out in a shape upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. Cut it in slices when serving. The gra\y should of course be made the day before it is wanted. Time to bake the veal, three hours. Probable cost, veal, Is. Id. per pound. Veal, Italian. Take half a pound of imcooked veal perfectly free from skin and fat. VEA ( 1050 ) VEA pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of fat previously boiled, or as much fat bacon, also boiled. Boil in milk a French roll with an onion, a bay-leaf, a small pinch of cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Drain off the milk, remove the bay-leaf, and beat the pounded veal and bread through a coarse sieve. Mix in a beaten egg, and make into rolls with a little flour. Boil these in separate floui-ed cloths, and serve turned out on a dish, with gravy, white or brown, and a little lemon- jiuce. Time, ten or twelve minutes to boil. Probable cost, about Is. Veal, Jugged. Take from two to three pounds of lean veal, cut it into neat slices convenient for serving, and season with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Put the slices into an earthen jar, pour over them half a pint of strong stock, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs and a roll of thin lemon-rind. Cover the jar closely by tying over it two or three folds of paper. Put it in a di'ipping-tin three-parts filled with boiling water, and place it in a moderately-heated oven. Let it remain till the meat is tender. Take it out, remove the herbs and the lemon-rind ; thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve the meat on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it. Time to stew the meat, two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Suflicient for five or six persons. Veal, Jugged (another way). Cut some slices of veal, and put them into an earthen jug with a blade of mace, a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a sprig of sweet herbs, and a bit of lemon-peel. Cover the jug closely, that the steam may not get out ; set it in a pot of boiling water, and about three hours will do the meat. About half an hour before it is done, put in a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little lemon-juice or lemon pickle. Turn it out of the jug into a dish ; take out the herbs and lemon-peel, and send it to table garnished with lemon. Veal, Kebobbed. Cut some lean veal into thin slices about an inch and a half in diameter, and not more than a quarter of an inch thick, and season each one of these with pepper, salt, powdered mace, and a little turmeric. Fasten them alternately with thin slices of onion and slices of pickled pork upon small skewers. Fry them in butter tiU they are sufficiently cooked, or fasten the skewers to a spit, and roast the meat before a clear fire, -basting liberally during the process ; drain them, and serve on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley. If liked, after the veal is fried it may be stewed in good curry gravy flavoured with lemon-juice, and served with dry rice. Veal Kernels. There are ten kernels in each calf four in each leg, and one in each shoulder. Those in the shoulders are considered much the best. French cooks trim, cook, and press these as directed for Tendons of Veal, and serve them in a circle on a dish, with a puree of vegetables in the centre. Kernels are very variable in price : they are cheapest in March, April, and May. About a dozen are required for a dish. Veal Kidney. A veal kidney should not properly be separated from the loin, but should be roasted and served with it. If wished, howe 'er, it may be cut off, and may then be served with stews of veal, or minced and made into forcemeat, and served on fried bread, or it may be broiled or fried like a sheep's kidney. Veal Kidney (a la maitre d'h6tel). Cut a veal kidney in half lengthwise. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, dip them in clarified butter, and afterwards in bread-crumbs, and broU until sufficiently cooked. Put two ounces of the freshest butter into an enamelled saucepan, add a dessert-spoonful of finelyminced parsley, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of strained lemonjuice. Work these ingredients well together with a wooden spoon, not on the fire, but near it. "When thoroughly mixed, put the butter on a hot dish, jjlace the broiled kidney upon it, and serve. Time, seven or eight minutes to broil the veal kidney ; three or four minutes to mix the sauce. Probable cost, lOd. Suflicient for one person. Veal Kidney, Broiled. Skin the kidney, and cut it in halves lengthwise. Flatten these, season with salt and cayenne, dip them in clarified butter, and bread-crumb them. Broil over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish with a small piece of maitre d'hotel butter under them. This butter may be made as follows : Pick and wash half an ounce of parsley. Chop it small, then put it in the comer of a napkin, dip it in cold water, and wring it dry. Put it in a basin with a little pepper and salt, three ounces of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Beat it with a wooden spoon near the fire tiU it looks like cream, when it will be ready for use. If it is placed too near the fire to melt the butter the preparation wiU be spoilt Time to broil the kidney, eight minutes four minutes to each side. Veal Kidney Cakes. Take a cold veal kidney, mince finely both fat and lean, and mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, and bind the mixture together Avith the yolk of a well-beaten egg. Fonn it into cakes, dip these into melted butter, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little hot butter or lard till brightly browned. Drain the fat from them before serving, and aiTange neatly on a dish garnished with parsley. Send good brown sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the cakes, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Veal Kidneys, Roasted. Take two veal kidneys from a loin of veal which has been roasted imtil done enough. IMince them finely with some fat, and add a table-spoonful of flavouring made of mushrooms which have been stewed in butter, then chopped small, and mixed with parsley, thj-me, and onion also fried. Season the forcemeat with salt and cayenne, and bind it together with raw egg. Cut ene or two slices of stale crumb of bread into neat shapes. Fry these in hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides, then drain VEA ( 1051 ) VEA them, and spread the forcemeat upon them half an inch thick. Brush the surface over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it. Place the pieces of bread thus prcpai-ed on a very hot dish, co\-er with a dish-cover, and serve immediately. Veal, Knuckle of, and Rice Soup. Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds. Divide it (sawing through the bones) into half a dozen pieces, and put these in a stewpot with a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, half a dozen peppercorns, half a head of celery, half a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and f oiu- quarts of cold water. Bring it slowly to the boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and boil gently for thi-ee hours. Take out the meat, cut it into convenient-sized pieces, and put them aside for further use. Strain the soup. Put it into a clean saucepan with twelve ounces of rice already three-parts boiled, and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer. Add the veal, and serve very hot. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal, Knuckle of. Boiled. A knuckle of veal is generally boiled, and forms a most wholesome and nourishing dish. It should be washed, then put into a stewpan, covered with cold water, boiled, then simmered gently and skimmed frequently for from two hours and a half to three hours, or till the gristle is quite tender, but not tiU the flesh will leave the bone. On account of its sinewy nature this jomt needs to bo well boiled. Plain melted butter or parsley and butter may be both poured over it and served with it. Egg sauce, onion sauce, and white sauce are also suitable accompaniments. Bacon and greens or mashed turnips and potatoes are usually eaten with knuckle of veal, and the dish should be garnished with parsley, lemon- rind, and forcemeat balls. Time, a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds, two hours and a quarter. Probable cost, 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of. Boiled (another way). Cut the shank-bone from a knuckle of veal. This may be stewed separately in a little water to make white sauce. Put the joint into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and when it begins to simmer throw in a tea-spoonful of salt to assist in throwing up the scum, skim carefully, and let it boil gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and -with either white saueo or parsley and butter poured over it, and more in a tureen. Garnish with slices of lemon and veal forcemeat balls. A piece of boiled bacon, a pig's cheek, or slices of fried bacon should be sent to table with it. Time to boil, fully twenty minutes per pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 9. d. or lOd. per pound. Sufficient, a joint weighing six pounds, for six or eight persons. Veal, Knuckle of, Boiled (another way). As veal is insipid, it is a meat seldom boiled. The knuckle, however, being chiefljcomposcd of cartilage, is occasionally boiled, and requires stewing to render it fit for eating. It is semetimes boiled with rice, and the gravy di-awn from it is flavoured with onions, a little mace, and a few peppercorns. With the broth half a pint of cream or milk may be mixed, and the whole meat, rice, and broth served together in a tureen. If sent up separately, the veal will require a sauce of parsley and butter, as well as the accompaniment of boiled bacon on a separate dish. Veal, Knuckle of, Carving. The knuckle of veal is almost always boiled : it is esteemed for its fat and tendons about the knuckle. The best slices can be cut only from the thickest part of the knuckle. About this part is some delicious fat ; and cutting in one direction two bones will be divided. Between these fine marrowy fat is to be found. Veal, Knuckle of. Ragout of. Cut a knuckle of veal into small thick slices. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt on these, dredge flouiupon them, and fry them in butter till they are brightly browned on both sides. Drain them, put them in a saucepan, and barely cover them with boiling stock or water. Throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a few outer sticks of celery. Let the liquor boil up, remove the scum as it rises, then draw the saucepan to the side and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Thicken the gravy with ground rice, add a table-spoonful of good store sauce, and serve. A few forcemeat balls may be added if liked. By way of variety, a pint of freslily-shelled young green peas may be stewed separately and served with the veal. Dressed veal may be cut into small pieces and stewed according to this recipe in a little of the liquor in which it was boiled mixed with milk. Whole rice or peas may be stewed with it. Time to simmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of, Soup. Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds, and break the bone in three or four places. Put half a pound of bacon in slices half an inch thick at the bottom of a stewpan, place the meat on this, and add a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of jjarsley, a sprig of thyme, a few sticks of celery, two "large onions with three cloves stuck in them, and a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Barely cover the ingredients with cold water, let the liquor boil, skim it, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently till the veal is quite tender. Take out the meat, strain the soup, and let it stand tiU cold. Before serving, remove the cake of fat from the top. If there is too much soup to use at once, a little may bo served at a time, and it may be thickened one day with vermicelli, another day with macaroni, and a third day with rice. The veal may be cut up into neat pieces and served with peas as a ragout {see Veal, Knuckle of, Eagout of), or, if preferred, it may be served in the soup. Time, four hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with. Green Peas. Take a small knuckle of veal. Melt a slice of fresh butter in a frjungpan, and put into it two onions sliced and the knuckle of veal whole. Turn the meat about VEA ( 1052 ) VEA till it is lightly and equally browned. Put it into a stewpan with the onions and as much hoiling stock or water as will cover it. Let the liquor boil, then simmer gently for an hour. Add two lettuces finely shred, a pint of freshlyshelled green peas, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper, and simmer all gently together another hour. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it, and send boiled rice to table on a separate dish. If liked, one or more cucumbers, pared, freed from seeds, and sUced, may be stewed in the gravy as well as the peas. Boiled bacon should be sent to table with it. Time to stew the veal, about two hours or more, according to size. Probable cost, four pounds at 5d. per pound, five pounds at 6d. per pound, six poimds at 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with Macaroni. Break the shank-bone of a small knuckle of veal, wash it well, and put it into a stewpan with a shallot or a small onion, and a little pepper, stilt, and pounded mace. Cover with stock or water, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Throw half a pound of macaroni into it, and let it simmer another hour, when it will be ready for serving. If preferred, the sauce may be thickened and will be much improved by boiling with it for the last ten minutes a table-spoonful of grovmd rice mixed smoothly with milk ; a little cream may be added to enrich it. Time, two hoirrs. Probable cost, veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with nice. Put a small knuckle of veal into a stewpan just large enough to contain it. If too large, so much water ill be needed that the veal will be rendered insipid. Cover with stock or water, throw a tea-spoonful of salt into it, let the liquor boil, skim carefuUy, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Throw into it half a pound of well-washed rice, and let all stew gently together till the meat and the rice are tender. Half an hour before it is taken up, season the preparation with mace and cayenne, and add a Httle more salt if required. Send boiled bacon and parsley and butter to table with the veal. Time to stew the veal, two hours to two hours and a half half an hour to the pound. Veal Liver Pate (to be eaten cold). Take one pound of calf's liver and ten ounces of fat bacon. Mince these first separately, and afterwards together, and season the mixture with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Add two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, two ounces of finely-minced lean ham and a moderatesized onion that has been sliced and browned in fat. IMix these ingredients thoroughly, and mix with them first the beaten yolks, and afterwards the well-whisked whites of two eggs. Line a mould with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the mince, place shces of bacon on the top, and bake the pate very gradually in a gentle oven. When it is done enough it can be easily pierced quite through with a skewer. Let it get cold, turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. Carve it in slices. Veal, Loin of. The loin is generally considered the prime joint of veal for roasting. It is frequently divided, and then there is the kichiey end and the chump end. The chump end is sometimes stufi'ed, but if this is not done forcemeat balls should be served with it. A loin of veal is frequently stewed also, and in wdnter-time is excellent. Veal, Loin of (a la cr em o). Prepare and roast a loin of veal in the usual way. About a quarter of an hour before it is done enough take up the dripping-tin, put a clean dish in its place, and baste the veal continually with boiling cream. This will impart to its surface a rich brown coating of delicious flavour. Dish the veal, and in doing so handle it carefully, for fear of injuring its surface. Pour two tablespoonfuls of boiling water into the dish over which it was basted, and in this stir the brown gravy which has dropped from the joint, and add it to half a pint of good white sauce. Pour some of this round the veal, and serve the rest in a tureen. Ham, tongue, or pickled pork will be needed as an accompaniment. Veal, Loin of (au bechamel). Take a loin of veal, and have it boned entirely by the butcher. Take out the kidney, remove some of the fat, and put the kidney back in its place. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the veal, roll in and skewer the flap to give the joint a good shape, and put a buttered paper round the meat. Roast before a clear fire, and baste liberally. Ten minutes before taking up the meat remove the paper, spiinkle a little salt upon the meat, and let it brown. Send bechamel sauce to table in a tureen. Serve boiled ham or bacon on a separate dish. Time to roast the loin, two hours to two hours and a half, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Veal, Loin of (au bechamel Cold Meat Cookery).- Take the remains of a dressed loin of veal. Cut ofE the meat, mince finely, and season with salt, cayenne, and grated lemonrind. "Wrap the loin in oiled paper, place it in the oven, and heat thi-oughout. Moisten the mince with bechamel, and make it quite hot. Dish it, put the loin over it, pour about a quarter of a pound of bechamel upon it, and serve immediately. Fried or boiled bacon should be sent to table with this dish. Time, about one hour and a half to heat the joint. Veal, Loin of, Boiled. It is not often that the loin of veal is boiled whole, as it is always best to finish it the day on which it is dressed, because cold boiled veal is not a particularly relishing dish. Nevertheless, to invalids and persons of delicate taste boiled veal is sometimes more accej table than roast veal. The best end of the loin, with the kidney left in, is excellent, and should be served with oyster or well-made white sauce. The chump end may be accompanied by parsley and butter. A loin of veal should be boiled just like a fillet of veal, though on account of its being less solid it will not need to be boiled quite so long. A piece weighing from eight to ten pounds will need to simmer from two homs and a quarter to tv,-o hours and a half. Veal, Loin of. Braised. Take four pounds of the chump end of a lom of veal. VEA ( 1053 ) VEA Take out the bone, and fill the cavity with good veal forcemeat. If liked, this may be omitted. Bind tightly with string, then put it in a stewpan vnth an ounce of butter, and turn it about till it is lightly and equally coloured all over. Lay some slices of bacon over it, and add the bones and trimmings of the veal, a large carrot, an inion sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a blade of mace, and a -little salt. Pour over all a quart of stock, and simmer the veal as gently as possible, basting frequently with the liquor till it is tender. Take it up, and put it in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from the surface, and boil quickly till it is considerably reduced. Put it on a dish, glaze with part of the gravy, and stir into the rest an ancho\y, a spoonful of capers, and a glassful of light wine. Dressed sorrel, spinach, or endive may be served on a separate dish. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Veal, Loin of, Braised (superlative). Take the best end of a loin of veal weighing about eight pounds, and trim it square. Cut the flap slightly, and in the incision thus made just over the ends of the bones place some nice veal forcemeat. Fasten securely with skewers and string. Cover the bottom of a braisingpan with sliced vegetables, and lay the veal on this ; pour in as much stock or water as will just reach the surface of the veal. Lay a roimd of oUed paper on the top, if possible put some live embers in the lid of the pan, and braise the meat over a gentle fire till it is quite tender. Baste frequently with its liquor. WTien done enough, take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, and boil quickly till it is much reduced and begins to thicken, then glaze the meat with it. Place the meat on a dish, and garnish with dressed vegetables, ai-ranging these so that the colours will contrast one with another. Cauliflowers, carrots, turnips, mushrooms, tomatoes, lettuces, asparagus, sorrel, endive, and spinach may all be served with braised loin of eal and mushrooms. Tomato, white Italian, or brown sauce may accompany it. Time to braise the veal, three hours. Probable cost, loin of veal, lid. jx-r povmd. Veal, Loin of. Chump End, Eoasted. Make an incision in the skin round the thick part of the joint with a sharji knife, and in this put some good veal forcemeat. Grease a sheet of white paper, wrap it round the joint, then put it do- \'n before a clear fire, and rather close to it. At the end of a quarter of an hour withdraw it to a distance, and let it roast very gently till done enough. Baste hberally. Half an hour before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a little flour upon it, and sprinkle over it a little salt and the strained juice of a lemon. Let the veal brown brightly. Mix a slice of butter very smoothly with a dessort-spoonful of flour. Pour upon this a cupful of boiling water, add a little salt, and boil the sauce for a few minutes. Pour the fat out of the drippingtin, leaving the brown gra-vy imtouched. Stir the melted butter into this, strain it into the saucepan, and again let it boil. Put the veal on a dish the broad side downwards. Pom- part of the gravy over it ; put the rest in a tureen, and serve immediately. Send a ciit lemon to table on a plate, and let boiled tongue, ham, bacon, or pickled pork accompany the veal. Time to roast the veal, twenty-five", minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Veal, Loin of Kidney End Roasted. Place a piece of buttered paper round the lean part of the loin, being careful to cover the kidney entu-ely with its fat. Hang the veal close to a good fire. At the end of twenty minutes draw it back a little, and roast gently, basting frequently until done enough. Half an hour before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a little flour upon the veal, and sprinkle over it the strained juice of a lemon and a little salt. Continue to baste until it is brightly browned. Make a little brown sauce according to the instructions given for roasting the chxunp end of a loin of veal. Toast a round of bread on both sides. Put it on a hot dish, and place the veal upon it, with the kidney resting on the toast. Pour a little of the gi-avy over the meat, serve the rest in a tureen, and send a cut lemon to table on a plate. Bacon, ham, or tongue should be served with this dish. Time to roast the veal, twenty-eight minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Veal, Loin of, Roast. It is by no means a general practice to stuff a loin of veal, but it is one which can be higlily recommended, as it greatly improves the joint. Make an incision in the flap or skirt of the loin, and into the cavity thus made, just over the ends of the bones, put some good veal forcemeat. Roll in the flap to cover the kidney-fat, and skewer it down, or bind with string. Wrap the loin in wellgreased sheets of paper, and put it down at a moderate distance before a clear fire. Baste liberally. Half an hour before it is done enough take away the paper, and let the veal brown. If the paper is not put on, the joint must be well dredged with flom- soon after it is put to the fire. When done enough, put the veal on a hot dish, and pour either clear brown gravj- or good brown sauce over it. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and fried forcemeat balls. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork should be served with it. In some places egg sauce and brown gravy are served with roast veaL If the loin is a very large one, the kidney should be skewered back for a while to ensure its being sufliciently dressed. Care should be taken that the joint is hung before the fire in such a way that both ends will be equally done. Time, a large loin of veal, about tlu-ee hours. Probable cost, lid. per pound. Veal, Loin of. Steamed (a German recipe). Bone a loin of veal, remove the kidneys, and trim away the superfluous fat. Spread a layer of veal forcemeat over the inner side of the veal, then roll it, and bind with twine to keep it in shape. Dissolve a slice of butter in a saucepan, put in the veal, and turn it about over the fire till it is equally and lightly browned all over. Put with it a sliced carrot, a small onion, two bay-leaves, and a httle pepper and salt. Pour a tea-cupful of stock over it, cover the saucepan closelv, and let VEA ( 1054 ) VEA the veal steam gently tiU tender. Take up the veal, strain and skim the gravy, stir into it a cupful of sour cream and two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Let it boil, and pour it over the meat. Jf Hked, the kidneys maj' be browned and steamed with the veal. Time to steam the veal, an horn- and a half to two hours. Veal, Loin of, Stewed, Plain. Take the chump end of a moderate-sized loin of veal ; put it into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter, and turn it about imtil it is lightly and equally browned. Pour over it boiling stock or water to half its depth, and add two sUced carrots, two small onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it simmer gently for an hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Turn it upon the other side, and simmer another hour. Dish the joint. Skim the gravy, pour some of it over the veal, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Ham, bacon, or pickled pork should accompany this dish. Time, two hom-s. Probable cost, chump end of a loin of veal, lOd. per pound. Veal, Loin of. Stewed, Superior. Take the chum ) end of a loin of veal weighing about seven pounds, and let the butcher bone it. FiU the cavity thus made with good veal forcemeat, and bind the meat into a good form with tape. Put it into a stewpan with haK a pound of bacon cut into slices, two carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a bimch of sweet herbs, a few outer sticks of celery, half a teaspoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, and half the thin rind of a lemon. Half a dozen mushrooms may be added if liked, and will be an improvement. Barely cover the ingredients with veal stock, and let all simmer gently tiU the veal is tender. Draw the saucepan on one side, and take out as much of the stock as will be needed for sauce. Thicken this with white thickening or with a httle butter rolled in flour. Place the veal on a dish, garnish with the bacon, pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, veal, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Veal, Loin of. Stuffed and Braised (to eat cold). Take a loin of veal with two neck-bones. Bone it, and stuif with good veal forcemeat. Wrap the sides roimd the forcemeat, skewer the joint firmly, and bind with tape, keeping it as oblong as possible. Wrap it in a napkin, tie the ends securely, and tie the meat also across in two or three places to keep it in shape. Place it on a bed of sliced vegetables in a braising-pan, cover with as much stock as will barely reach to the edge of the surface of the veal, close the stewpan, and boil and simmer the veal very gently for four hours. Take the stewpan from the fire, but do not take out the veal until the hquor is cool. Remove the napkin, tie the meat in a clean one, put over it a dish with a heavy weight upon it, and let it remain until the next day. Trim neatly, brush over with liquid glaze, and garnish with aspic jelly, parsley, &c. This dish wiU be much improved if thi-ee or four trufHcs finely minced, a little red tongue, and the veal kidney finely minced, be added to the forcemeat. Time to braise the veal, four hours. Veal, Marbled. Cut into thin slices a dried tongue which has been slrinned and boiled in the usual way. Pound these in a mortar with a httle butter and a seasoning of pepper and pounded mace. Mince and pound separately an equal weight with the tongue of cold roast veal, and season this with salt and cayenne. Spread a layer of the veal in the bottom of a potting-pan, put the tongue on it in large lumps, leaving a sjjace between each lump, and fill up the empty spaces with veal. Press the meat closely into the pan. Pour clarified butter over to the thick-ness of half an inch, and keep the preparation in a cool place till wanted. Veal, Minced. Take the remains of cold dressed veal free from slrin, bone, and fat. jMince finely, and put it aside. Put the brown skin, the bones, and trimmings into a saucepan with a httle salt and pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a piece of thin lemon-rind. Pour over these as much stock or water as wiU. cover them, and let the gra -y simmer till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the sauce, and supposing there is a pound and a half of meat, stir into it a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, half a quarter of a pint of cream or milk, and a small piece of white thickening, or about an ounce of butter rubbed in flour. When the sauce is smooth and thick put in the minced veal, and let it remain for a few minutes till it is quite hot, but it must not boil or it will be hard. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. If brown gravy is preferred to wliite, the cream must be omitted, and the gravy must be thickened with brown thickening, or if this is not at hand flour and butter may be used, and a few drops of sugar browning be added. An onion with two cloves stuck into it should then be stewed with the gravy, and a glassful of port or claret may be added if liked. Fried rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. Time, an hour and a half to draw the gravy ; four minutes to heat the mince in the gravy. Veal, Minced, and Macaroni. Soak half a pound of macaroni in water for an hour, then put it into salted water, and boil gently till tender. Whilst it is boiling cut about a pound and a half of cold roast veal into thin slices free from fat, skin, and bone. Mince the meat finely with a quarter of its weight in ham (if this is to be had) ; season the mince with salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, and add a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. Bind the mixture together Avith one or two eggs. Butter a mould, drain the macaroni, and wind it round and round the inside. Put the mince in the centre, place a dish on the top of the mould, and steam the preparation over boiling water. Turn it upon a dish, and serve with brown gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and ham poured round, but not upon it. Time to boil the macaroni, an hour and a half; to steam the preparation, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Veal, Minced, and Macaroni (another way). Soak and boil the macaroni as before. Mince and flavour the veal, and mix with it VEA ( 1055 ) VEA a table- spoonful of flour. Cleanse, peel, and slice three fresh truffles. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, put in the truffles, and fry them gently for eight minutes. Pour over them half a pint of good gravy and the minced veal, and let them simmer as gently as possible for half an hour. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and two table-spoonfuls of sherry ; turn the preparation into a mould lined with macaroni, and steam as in the last recipe. Veal, Minced and Scalloped. To prepare this dish two or three scallop-shells are necessary, or small dishes or saucers may be used instead. Cleanse the shells, and butter them thickly. Mince the veal, and season in the usual way, then moisten and simmer it for three or four minvites in some good gravy drawn from the bones. Put a heaped tablespoonful of the mince into each shell. Cover it with seasoned bread-crimibs, lay little pieces of butter here and there on the top, and brown the surface in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve the preparation in the shells, which should be neatly placed on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin. Veal, Minced, Moulded. Cut threequarters of a pound of cold roast veal free from bone, skin, and fat into thin slices, and mince it finely with a quarter of a pound of lean ham and a table-spoonful of bread-crumbs. Add half a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped onion (this, however, may be omitted), a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of gxated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Butter a mould, put in the mince, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough turn it upon a hot dish, and pour round, but not over it, some good brown gravy made of the bones and trimmings of the veal. Garnish with sippets, and send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. Time to bake the preparation, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Minced, with Fowl. The white flesh of a boiled or roast fowl is very good mixed with minced veal. It should be seasoned and flavoured in the same way. A little lean ham is always an improvement to this dish. Veal, Minced, with Poached Eggs. Cut the lean meat from the bones, and mince it finely with a small portion of lean ham, if it is to be had. Break up the bones, and stew them in as much water as will cover them, with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, three or four outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the gravy for an hour or more, strain, skim it, thicken with white thickening or with flour and butter kneaded together, and add a little milk or cream. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is smooth and thick, pom* half of it into another saucepan, and add the minced veal to the remainder. Let it remain on the fire till the veal is thoroughly hot. It must not boil or the meat will be hard ; care must be taken, too, to keep it from burning. Pile the mince in the centre of a dish, lay poached eggs upon it, and garnish it round with small rolls of thin fried bacon. Pour a little of the sauce which was kept aside over the mince, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, one hour and a half to stew the gravy. Veal, Minced, with Potatoes (a plain family dish) . Take the remains of cold dressed ?\-eal. Free the lean part entirely from skin, bone, and fat, and mince it finely. Stew the bones and trimmings with as much cold water as wiU cover them to a strong gravy. Mix with the minced veal an equal quantity (or more if liked) of cold boiled potatoes. Put the mixture into a saucepan, moisten with a little of the gravy, and add pepper and salt as required. Dredge a little flour into the mince, dissolve a slice of fresh butter in it, and let it simmer over a moderate fire till it is thoroughly hot. Stir occasionally to keep it from burning. Time, half an hour to heat the mince. Veal, Neapolitan Turnovers of. Cut half a pound of di-esscd lean veal and two oimces of dressed ham (fat and lean together), into thin slices, and mince these finely. Dissolve a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a saucepan, and fry in it a finely-minced shallot and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Drain these, and put them in a mortar with the minced meat, a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Pound these ingredients thoroughly, and whilst pounding add gradually a table-spoonful of strong stock which is a jelly when cold, a dessert-spoonful of sherry, a salt-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a well-beaten egg. Have ready some good pastry made for the purpose, and rolled to the thickness of a shilling. Cut this into pieces three inches square, and lay a spoonful of the forcemeat on one corner of each. Turn the comers over, moisten the edges with beaten egg, and press them together to make them stick. Put a quart of water into a saucejoan, throw a teaspoonful of salt into it, and let it boil. Drop the turnovers into it, and let them simmer for five minutes. Drain them, and put them into a dish. Have ready prepared some good stock made by simmering the bones and trimmings of the veal, with a carrot, an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and as much water as will cover it. Strain this stock, skim the fat from it, and put half a pint of it into a saucepan with a wine-glassful of fight wine, two table- spoonfuls of grated Parmesan, a slice of butter, a teaspoonful of ketchup, a spoonful of mustard, and another of essence of anchovy. Stir the gravy over the fire for five minutes, pour it over the turnovers, sprinkle a little grated cheese on the surface, and bake the turnovers in a quick oven. Serve them on the dish in which they the}- were baked. The pastry should be made fully three hours before it is used, and kept in a cool place till wanted. It may be made by mixing half a salt-spoonful of salt with six ounces of baked flour, then rubbing into this one ounce of butter, and working into the mixture the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a wine-glassful of cold water. Veal, Neck of. The best end of the neck is generally chosen for roasting, and is VEA ( 1056 ) VEA excellent served with forcemeat balls round it, though it is not usual to stuff it with foixemeat. It is also very good braised or stewed. The scrag end of the neck should be made into a pie or used for broth. Probable cost, best end, lid. large, Is. small; scrag end, from 7d. per pound, according to size. Veal, Neck of (a la Creme). Take the best end of a neck of veal. Loosen the flesh from the ends of the bones. Cut the bones short to make the joint as square as possible, then fold and skewer the flank underneath. Wrap the joint in oiled paper, fasten it upon the spit, and put it down at a moderate distance from a clear fire. Baste liberally. Remove the paper, and baste the joint with a pint of good white sauce or with cream. This will impart to the surface of the veal a rich brown appearance and a delicious flavour. Serve the veal on a hot dish, pour white sauce round it, and send a little more to table in a tureen. If liked, white mushroom sauce may be served with the veal, as well as or instead of bechamel. Some cooks before roasting the veal let it lie in oil for a couple of hours, with a little pepper, salt, and powdered sweet herbs sprinkled over it. Time to roast the veal, two hours to two hours and a quarter, or twentj'-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. or Is. per pound. Veal, Neck of, Braised. Take about four pounds of the best end of a neck of veal. Cut oft' the long bones, and saw off the chine bone. Put in the b?ttom of a braising-pan a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of th)-me, a bay-leaf, and a few sticks of celery, with two or three slices of lean bacon or ham. Add the bones and trimmings of the veal with the scrag end of the neck if it is not wanted for other purposes. Pour in a little stock or water, as much as will almost, but not quite, cover the veal. Set the pan over a slow fire, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Strain the Liquor, and boil half of it quickly till it begins to thicken. With this glaze the meat until it has a bright glossy appearance. Thicken the remainder with a small piece of brown thickening, or with fiour and butter kneaded together and stirred quickly over the fire until the paste is brown. Boil the sauce till smooth, skim well, stir the juice of an orange or lemon into it, and serve with the meat. Dressed vegetables, such as peas, onions, carrots, potatoes, ?spinach, sorrel, endive, and asparagus, may be served with the veal, and part of these may be used to garnish the dish. If liked, rice boiled for curry and with curry sauce ])oured over it may be sent to table as an accompaniment. Time, from an hour and three quarters to two hours to stew the veal. Probable cost, lid. or Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Neck of, Braised (a la Barbarie). Braise the best end of a neck of veal according to the instructions already given, and before doing so lard it with strips of truffles {see Veal, Neck of. Larded). Put bacon over the veal in the pan to preserve the colour of the meat, and send Italian sauce to table as an accompaniment. Veal, Neck of, Larded. To lard a neck of veal, first trim it by shortening the long bones and sawing off' the chine bone. With a sharp knife remove the skin and sinew which cover the fiUet, leaving the bones covered with fat, and lard the fillet thus bared closely and evenly with strips of fat bacon. Afterwards braise the veal according to the instructions already given, and be careful that the liquor is high enough only to touch the edge of the surface of the veal, and that it does not cover the larding. When the veal is tender, take it up, and keep it hot. Strain the liquor, skim the fat from it, and boil it down till it begins to thicken. Put the veal in the oven, and baste constantly for a quarter of an hour- or till it has a bright glossy appearance. Place it on a dish, and send good brown sauce and dressed to table with it. Veal, Neck of, Boast. Take the best end of a neck of veal, saw off the chine bone, and run a strong skewer through the joint lengthwise, wrap in buttered paper, and tie it to the spit. If the joint is not wrapped in paper, it must be well clredged with flour, and basted very liberally with dripping from the pan. Put it down before a clear fire, and at a sufficient distance to keep it from being scorched. A quarter of an hoar before the joint is taken up, remove the paper, dredge the meat with flour, and baste with a little butter dissolved in a spoon. Pour the fat from the pan, leaving the brown sediment behind, stir into it a quarter of a pint of thin melted butter, and add a httle salt ; then strain the sauce into a saucepan, and let it boil. Put the joint on a hot dish, pour part of the sauce round it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Send the joint to table accompanied by bacon, ham, tongue, or pickled pork on a separate dish, and with a cut lemon on a plate. Parsley sauce, onion sauce, white sauce, and rice sauce may all be served with roast neck of veal. Time to roast the veal, an hour and a half to two hours, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. or Is. per pound. Veal, Neck of, Stewed. Take the best end of a neck of veal. Lard it, or if this cannot bo conveniently done, cover with a thin slice of fat bacon, and roast it for one hour. Put it into a stewpan, pour a quart of stock made from bones over it, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay-leaf, two onions thinly sliced, half a dozen mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of whole pepper, and four ounces of picked and washed rice. Let the liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the meat is tender. Put the veal on a dish, strain part of the gravy over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Garnish with the boiled rice. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, veal, lid. or Is. per pound. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Veal, Norman Haricot of. Take two pounds and a half of veal chops. Trim them neatly, free them almost entirely from fat, and brown them lightly in a httle butter. Put them into a stewpan, pour over them a pint of boilingstock, add a bunch of parsley, and simmer very VEA ( 1057 ) VEA gently for three-quarters of an hour. Clean two pounds of new potatoes. Let them boil up once, then put them in the stesvpan above the meat, cover closeh-, and simmer again untU they are done enough. Before serving add salt and pepper if required. Place the cutlets in the centre of a hot dish, and put the potatoes round them with any other vegetables that may have been cooked for the purpose. Young carrots, green peas, or cauliflowers are all good. A slice of lean ham is a great improvement to this dish. Time, an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for fom- or five persons. Veal Olive Pie. Take the remains of a di-essed fillet of veal. Cut the meat into thin slices, cover these with pieces of bacon, spread forcemeat upon them, and roll them firmly. Place them in a pie-dish, piling them high in the centre, pour over them a httle gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and thickened with brown thickening. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, cover with the same, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. The pie will of course be much better if the olives are made with fresh veal. Time to bake i moderate-sized pie, one hour to one hour and a half. Veal Olive Pie (superior). Make the olives according to the instructions given in the following recipe {see Veal Olives) . Place them in the pie-dish, piling them highest in the centre, and intersperse amongst them a dozen or more forcemeat balls about the size of marbles, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into halves, eight or ten stewed mushrooms, and a pickled cucumber sliced. Pour over the olives some good highly-seasoned gravy thickened with brown thickening and flavoured with lemonjuice and a glassful of sherry. A little cream may be added if liked. Cover the pie with good pastry, and bake it in a well-heated oven. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one houi- to one hour and a haK. Veal Olives. Cut half a dozen slices half an inch thick, seven inches long, and four inches broad, from an undressed fillet of veal. Flatten these with a chopper, and brush them over with beaten yolk of egg. Lay upon each a thin slice of fat bacon the same size as the veal, brush this also with yolk of egg, and spread a layer of good veal forcemeat over it. lioU each piece up tightly, and bind it with twine. Flour the olives, or if preferred brush them with egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs. Melt a little dripping in a frying-pan, put in the olives, and turn them about till they are Ughtly browned all over. Drain, and place them closely side by side in a saucepan just large enough to hold them. Pour over them as much boiling gravy as wiU cover them, and let them simmer very gently till done enough. Lift them on a dish, strain the gravy over, and garnish with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. The grav}' in which the ohves are to be stewed may be made as follows : Take the bones and trimmings of the veal with any bones of poultry that there may be ; break them into small pieces, and put them 72 in a stewpan with a slice of butter or dripping, two sliced onions, a handful of parslej', a blade of mace, four cloves, and six or eight peppercorns. Shake the saucepan over the fire till the ingredients become sKghtly browned, then pour in gradually a quart of hot water. Let this boil, and thicken with a lump of brown thickening. FaiHng this, mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly with a little cold water in a basin. Stu- a portion of the boilingliquor with this, and add it to the rest. Add also a table-spoonful of ketchup and as much sugar browning as will make the gravy of a good colour. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the sauce, let it cool a short time, clear it from fat, stir in some salt, let it boil, and it will be ready for use. If there are no bones from the veal, one pennj'worth of fresh bones or half a pound of lean beef or veal maybe used instead. Time, one hour and a half to simmer the bones, two hours to stew the olives. Probable cost, veal, Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal Olives (another way). Cut five slices of veal sLx inches long, four wide, and as thin as possible, from the fillet, and an equal number of exceedingly thin slices of bacon of the same shape and size. Fatten the veal with a chopper, spread a portion of the forcemeat upon it, and cover this with the bacon. Pioll the olives fiiTuly, and fasten them with a skewer, or bind them with twine. Flour them, or if preferred dip them twice in beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Brown them in a httle fat, put them side by side in a small stewpan, cover with gravy, and simmer very gently till tender, basting them constantly. When done enough place them on a dish, strain and skim the gravy, and stir into it a glassful of light wine or a tablespoonful of lemon- juice or walnut-pickle. Let it boil, pour it over the oHves, and serve. By way of variety, instead of ordinary veal forcemeat the stuffing may be prepared as follows : Scrape half a pound of undressed veal and one ounce of lean ham with the back of a knife till the fibre only is left. Put this pulp into a mortar with a cleaned anchovy, an ounce of suet from the loin chopped separately, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of mixed and powdered herbs, a dessert-spoonful of corn-flour, and a little salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Mix and pound the ingi-edients thoroughly, and bind the forcemeat together with beaten &gg. Time, about two hours to stew the olives. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Olives (another way) . Prepare the olives in the usual way. Brown them in a little fat, drain them, pack them in a saucepan, and stew them in gi-avy till tender. A few minutes before serving put with them half a pint of stewed button mushrooms, a tablespoonful of lemon pickle or lemon- juice, and a glassful of Marsala. A dozen fried oysters may be added if hked. Veal Olives, Eoasted. Prepare the olives as before. Skewer them and bind them firmly to keep in the forcemeat. Flour them. VEA ( 1058 ) VEA or if preferred dip them in egg and roll them in bread-crunibs, lay them on a lark-S2)it, and put them down to a clear fire. Baste liberally till done enough. Take them up, and serve ?with good brown gravy or with mushi'oom sauce and sliced cucumber. Time to roast the olives, about three-quarters of an hour. Veal Patties. Slake the patty-cases in the usual way {see Patties, Preparation of, and Puff Paste Patties, or Small Vol-au-Vents) . Bake them, and when they are done enough, have ready to fill them a savoury preparation made according to any of the following recipes. No. 1. Mince, first separately and afterwards together, haK a pound of lean veal and two ounces of ham. Add a table-spoonful of iiour, a tea-spoonful of grated parmesan, the rind of ialf a lemon grated, a pinch of gi-ate'd nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Put the mince into a saucepan with as much strong veal stock that will jelly when cold as will moisten it. Stir over a gentle fire for a quarter of an hour. Add two table-spoonfuls of thick cream and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and the mince will be ready for use. No 2. Mince half a poimd of dressed lean veal free from skin and fat and haK a dozen oysters separately. Take as much nicely-flavoured veal stock that will jeUy when cold as will moisten the mince. Mix with it two table- spoonfuls of thick cream, the oyster liquor, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Put the sauce with the mince into a saucepan, and let it get quite hot. Put in the oysters for haK a minute, and serve. No. 3. Take a pound of dressed lean veal free from skin and gristle. Cut it into strips, and mince finely with a quarter of a pound of lean ham. Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan with a pint of water, a bunch of parsley, an inch of thin lemon-rind, half a dozen peppercorns, and a blade of mace. Simmer this gravy for an hour or more till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, let it get cold, and free it from fat. Put the minced veal into a small saucepan with as much gravy as ?will moisten it, and add three table-sjjoonfuls of cream and a small piece of "butter rolled in flour. Stir the mince over a gentle fire tiU it is quite hot and smooth, when it will be ready for use. If preferred, the mince may be baked in the cases instead of being put into them after they are baked, but it is best to bake the pastry separately, as the mince hardens in baking. Veal Patties, Fried. Mince half a pound of dressed lean veal and a quarter of a pound of ham. Season the mince with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and grated nutmeg, and mix -n-ith it an egg boiled hard and chopped small. Moisten with nicely-flavoured stock that forms a strong jelly when cold, and add a little cream. Roll some good pastry to the thickness of haK-a-crown. Put little mounds of the mince upon this an inch distant from each other. Place a piece of pastry over all, and stamp the covered mounds out in patties with a round cutter. IMoisten the edges,_ and press the pastry together round the mince. When wanted., drop the patties into hot fat and fry them till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and serve on a neatlyfolded napkin garnished with parsley. If preferred, the patties may be baked in a moderate oven instead of being fried. Time to fry the patties, a quarter of an hour. Veal Pie. Any part of lean veal free from fat and bone may be used for a pie. The loin and the best end of the neck are excellent for the purpose when the bone and the greater part of the fat are removed. Slices from the fiUet are very good also. The knuckle, part of the leg, the breast, and the shoulder may also be advantageously used, but they should be partially stewed before being put into the pie, as otherwise they will not be tender. Veal pie may be made plain or rich according to choice. Ham or bacon, forcemeat-balls, hard-boiled eggs, sweetbreads, oysters, mushi-ooms, truffles, &c., may all be introduced. If ham or bacon has been cured with saltpetre there is a danger that it -will make the veal red, and so spoil the appearance of the pie. On this account dressed ham or bacon is to be preferred, though it isnot so savoury. Veal Pie, Good. Take a pound and a half of veal cutlets a quarter of an inch thick and free from skin and bone, also half a poimd of thin ham. Season the meat with a little salt, pepper, gi-ated nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, and powdered mace, and let the quantity of salt used be regulated by the quality of the ham. Divide the meat into pieces an inch and a half square, put it in layers into a buttered jjie-dish, and pour over it half a quarter- of a pint of cold stock or water. Intersperse amongst the pieces of veal the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and four forcemeat balls, together with four button mushi-ooms, or a trufile, if these can be had. The pie, however, wiU be very good without them. Line the edge of a dish with good pastry, cover with the same, trim with a sharp knife, and ornament the pie. Make a hole in the centre that the steam may escape, and bake the i ie in a moderate oven. Have ready some nicely-seasoned veal gravy to pour into the pie after it is baked. Serve with cut lemon. For a good pie like this puff paste should be used. Time to bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pie. Veal Pie, Good (another way). Cut a pound and a half of veal cutlet, free from skin and bone, into pieces an inch and a half square, and cut half a pound of thinly-sliced ham intopieces of the same size. FiU a buttered pie-dish. with the veal and ham in alternate layers, and place the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs on the surface. Mince four button mushrooms, one shallot, and a bunch of parsley. Fry these in an ounce of butter for a few minutes, then pour upon the mixture half a pint of stock or water, and add a small piece of brown thickening or a tablespoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little ketchup. Simmer the gravy, stii-ring well until it boils. Add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and strain some of it upon the veal. Bake the pie in a well-heated oven. Pour a little good gravj' into it before serving. Time to bake the pie, an hour and a half to two hom's. VEA ( 10o9 ) VEA Probable cost, 3s. 6d. SufBcient for a modoratesized dish. Veal Pie, Parsley. Cut some slices of lean veal into neat pieces, and season these with salt and cayenne. Take a handful of parsley, pick the leaves from the stems, scald them, press, dry, and chop them small. Fill the dish with layers of veal, and sprinkle a little parsley over each layer. Pour milk into the dish instead of stock. Cover the dish with pastry in the usual way, and bake until done enough. Lift up the crust, pour away the milk, and substitute for it half a pint of boiling cream. Serve immediately. Veal Pie, Plain (for family use). Take two pounds of the breast of veal, cut it into pieces an inch and a half square, and season the meat by sprinkling over it a savoury powder made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Pour over the meat a small quantity of water, and add a few sticks of celery, an onion, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Let the meat heat gently, and add a little more water till there is as much as will barely cover the meat. Stew the veal very gently till it is tender. Let it remain until cold, then take out the fat. Place the meat in layers- in a pie-dish, and put in with the veal a little ham or bacon, three eggs boiled hard, shelled, and sliced, and a few forcemeat balls. All or any of these ingredients may be omitted. Strain a little of the stock over the meat. Line the edges of the lish with pastry, cover with the same, and make a hole in the centre. Ornament the surface of the pie, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn the pie about that it may be equally baked. Boil the gravy that was not used, and when the pie comes from the oven pour it in. If more convenient, the veal, instead of being stewed in a saucepan, may be put into a pie-dish, covered with a dish, and stewed in a moderate oven. Time to stew the veal, about one hour and a quarter ; to bake the pie, three quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter. Probable oost, veal, 9d. or lOd. per pound. Veal Pie, Haised. Take a pound and a lialf of lean veal and a pound of ham. Cut three-parts of the veal into neat pieces, and season these with pepper and chopped mushrooms. INIince the remainder of the veal with an equal quantitj' of fat bacon, pound the mixture in a mortar, and season with salt and cayenne. A small piece of onion, herbs, and spices may be added to the forcemeat, if liked. Line a mould with pastry in the usual way. Cover the bottom with forcemeat, and fill the pie with alternate layers of thinly-sliced ham, veal, and forcemeat. Laj'' thin slices of fat b)acon on the top of the meat, put a bay-leaf on that, and finish and bake the pie {see Raised Pies). Half an hour after it is taken from the oven pour into it, through a pointed strainer placed in the hole at the top, a little highlyseasoned gravy which will form a strong jelly when cold. This jelly may be made by ste-w-ing a calf's foot and the bones and trimmings of the veal with an onion stuck with two cloves. a small bvmch of herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg in stock or water for a couple of hours. "Wlien the pie is sufficiently baked, a skewer will pierce it easily. If liked, the pieces of veal in the pie may be larded. Time to bake the pie, two hours or more. Veal Pie, Solid. Put a piece of the knuckle of veal into a stewpan, cover with water, let it boil up, then simmer till it is quite tender. Let it get cold, then divide it into small pieces. Butter a plain round or oval shape, and cover the bottom with the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs neatly aiTanged. Place over these some pieces of the meat and gristle, with a seasoning of salt, pepper, pounded mace, and grated lemon-rind. Pour in a little of the gravy in which the meat was boiled, and which ought to form a strong jelly, and fill the dish with the meat, hard-boiled eggs, and sliced beetroot, so arranged that the colours will contrast prettily. Pour in as nmch gravy as will cover the ingredients, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. WTien quite cold, turn it out. It ought to have a glazed appearance. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Veal Pie, Superlative. Butter a dish, and fill it with alternate layers of lean veal cut into neat pieces and seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, thin ham sliced, sweetbread, and chopped truffles. Place little pieces of butter here and there in the pie. Cover the dish, with rich pastiy, and bake till done enough. After the pie is taken from the oven, pour into it through the hole in the centre some gravy made of some strong, highly-seasoned veal stock mixed with a glassful of champagne. Veal Pie with Oysters. Take a pound and a half of veal cutlet half an inch thick. Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat, sprinkle over it a seasoning of peppei, salt, and grated nutmeg, and cut it into neat pieces. Spread upon these a thin covering of lean ham minced and pounded, and roll them up. Place them at the bottom of a pie-dish, and put a layer of oysters upon them. Repeat until the dish is full. Stew the bones and tiimmings of the veal in stock or water, thicken the liquor with flour and butter, and add the oyster liquor. Pour the strained gra'vj' over the meat, and keep back a portion to jaut into the pie when it is baked. Cover the pie with pastry, and bake in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, an hour- and a half to two hours. Veal Pie with Pork. Take equal quantities of veal and pork in slices half an inch thick, cut the meat into neat pieces, and season these with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Boil two onions, mince them finely, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley and another of shred sage. Fill the dish with altci-nate layers of veal and porlv, and sprinkle a little of the savoury mixture over each layer. Pour half a tea-cupful of veal stock or water over the meat, cover with pastry, and bake in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, an hornand a half to two hours. Veal Pie with Potatoes (Cold Meat Cookery). Cut some cold ch-essed veal into small neat pieces, and slice double the quan VEA ( 1060 ; VEA tity of small cold boiled potatoes. Butter a pie-disli, and fiU it with alternate layers of cold meat and sliced potatoes. Season each layer with pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, and lay Uttle pieces of hutter here and there upon it. Cover the meat with good pastry, and bake in a weil-heated oven. When the pastry is done enough, the pie will be ready for serving. Veal Pie with Sausage. Take some cutlets half an inch thick from the fiUet of veal. Season these with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, and fill a dish with alternate layers of the cutlet and of Bologna sausage thinly sliced. The veal will yield sufficient gravy to moisten the pie. Cover with good pastry, and bake in the usual way. This pie is excellent eaten cold. Veal Pie with Sweetbreads. Take a poimd and a half of veal and a sweetbread. Cut the veal into pieces an inch and a half square, and season these as in the previous recipes. Soak the sweetbread for an houi-, throw it into boiling salted water, and boil for a quarter of an hour. Cut it into slices. Butter the piedish, fill it with alternate layers of veal and sweetbread, and lay upon the surface three or four hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Intersperse amongst the pieces of meat, oysters, mushrooms, or forcemeat balls. Pour over the meat a small quantity of gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal stewed in cold water till the stock will jelly when cold, and flavoui-ed with lemon, sweet herbs, and ketchup. Have ready some nicely-seasoned gra 'y to pour into the pie when it is baked. Cover and bake the pie in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, one hour and a haK to two hours. Veal Pies, Raised (small) . Take the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal, with half its weight in thinly-sliced ham. Divide the meat into pieces an inch square. Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a saucepan, cover them with water, add flavouring ingredients, and stew the liquor tUl it is pleasantly flavoured and so strong that it will jelly when cold. Put the veal into a stewpan, cover it with the strained stock, and add half a quarter of a pint of cream and a few muslirooms, if these can be obtained. Let the veal simmer gently for an hour, then let it get cold. Line some small pate moulds. Fill them with the preparation, cover them, and bake till done enough. Serve cold. Time to bake the pies, according to size, say till a skewer will pierce them easily. Veal, Pilau of. Wash a pound of rice, throw it into boiling water, and boil it quickly for five minutes. Drain it, put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and stir over a brisk fire till the rice is equally and lightly colom-ed without being at all bm-nt. Pour over it a pint and a half of stock or water, and let it simmer very gently till the grains are tender. Sprinkle a little curry powder over the rice, and stir it with a fork. Spread a little on a dish. Place upon it a few dressed veal cutlets or a small breast of veal, which has been partially roasted, cut into neat pieces, and stewed in rich gravy. Arrange a fewrashers of fried bacon round the veal, cover the meat with rice, brush over with beaten egg, and place it in the oven tiU it is brown and hot throughout. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, and serve hot. Time, altogether, twohours and a haH to three hours. Veal Pluck. Take a calf's heart with the liver and lights. Wash the heart in several waters, let it soak for half an hour, drain and dry it, fill it with good veal forcemeat, tie thin slices of fat bacon round it, and roast or bake it. Soak the liver and lights, boil them for an hour, and mince them. Put this mince into a stewpan with a little pepper and salt, the thin rind of half a lemon, half a blade of mace? and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Cover with gravy, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Season with pepper and salt, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a httle strained lemon-juice. SUce the remainder of the liver, and fry in the usual way {see Liver, Fried). Place the mince upon a dish, put the heart upon it, and garnish tlie dish with the fried Hver, fried rashers of bacon, toasted sippets,, and parsley. Serve very hot, and send good brown gravy to table with it. Time, one hour and a half to roast the heart ; half an hour to simmer the mince in the gravy. Veal Pot Pie (economical family dish). Take two pounds of the breast or scrag of veal, or, if prefeiTcd, two pounds of cold dressed veal. Cut it into small pieces convenient for sei-ving, and with it half a pound of pickled pork. Put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let it simmer gently till tender. If the veal has been cooked, the bones and trimmings of the meat only ought to be stewed. Put the meat into a dish, and let it cool. Line the edges of a large pie-dish with good plain pastry or with bread dough rolled to the thickness of half an inch. Put in the meat with six or eight potatoes, and dredge a table-spoonful of flour over it, with a tea-spoonful of pepper. Strain the gravy upon it, adding water if necessary to make the quantity up to one quart. Cut off as much pastry as is required to cover the dish, and lay the remainder in slices upon the meat. Put some skewers across to support the pastry, and place the cover on the top. Press the edges secm-ely, make a slit in the centre that the steam may escape, and bake the pie in a weU-heated oven. When serving turn the pastry on a dish, place the meat upon it, and pour the gravy over all. \ Tiolesome pastry may be made as follows : Put two pounds of flour into a bowl, mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt, make a hole in the centre, and stii- into it a tea-spoonful of powdered saleratus dissolved in a cupful of water. Make it into soft dough with som- milk. Veal Pottage. Cut away from a knuckle of veal all the meat that can be stewed or made useful in any waj', then break the bone into four or five pieces, and put these into a stewpan with an onion stuck with two cloves, a small blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a bay -leaf, sLx or eight peppercorns. VEA ( 1061 ) VEA and a little bacon-rind. Pour over these ingredients five pints of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently. When sufficiently boiled strain it into a pan, and let it stand till the next day. Eemove the fat from the top, take up the jelly free from sediment, and boil vegetables, such as celery, artichokes, or turnips, in it till tender. Eub the vegetables through a hair sieve, and mix the pulp with the liquor. Stir into it half a spoonful of flour which has been mixed to a smooth paste with half a pint of cream or milk. Let the soup boil a few minutes ; add pepper and salt to taste, and serve. Time, five hours to boil the stock. Veal, Potted. Take about a pound of dressed veal free from skin, bone, fat, and gristle. Cut it into smaU pieces, and mince finely. Put it in a mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding gradually as much pepper, salt, and pounded mace as will season and flavour it pleasantly, together with about two ounces of butter broken into small pieces, and a spoonful or two of strong veal gravy made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the veal in water. Pound the preparation till it is a perfectly smooth paste, press it into small jars, and cover with a layer of clarified butter or dripping a quarter of an inch thick. The addition of a quarter of a pound of lean ham wiU greatly improve this dish. Let it stand twenty-fouihours before using it, and store in a cool dry place. Veal, Potted, made with Fresh Meat. Take a thick slice of lean undiessed veal. Season with pounded mace or grated nutmeg and white pepi er; put it into a potting-pan that will just hold it, pom- cold water over, cover closely, and bake gently till quite tender. Let it get cold, cut it small, and pound it in a mortar till smooth. If to be used at once, qmckly moisten with a little of its own gravy. If to be kept a short time, add a little clarified butter only. Press it into jars, and cover with melted butter or suet a quarter of an inch thick. Store in a cool dry place. Time to bake the veal, three hours. Veal, Potted, with Tongue. Take three-quarters of a pound of cold dressed veal free from fat, skin, and gristle, and a quarter of a poimd of boiled tongue. Mince these ingredients finely, and pound them to a perfectly smooth soft paste. Add very gradually whilst pounding five ounces of clarified butter, a small tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a spoonful of freshly-made mustard, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Add salt if reqvured, but it is probable that the tongue will make the meat salt enough. Press the meat into small potting- jars, cover with clarified butter or dripping, and store in a cool diy place. Veal Pudding. Line a shallow puddingbasin with suet crust rolled to the thickness of half an inch, and leave the pastry an inch over the edge. Fill the dish with alternate layers of lean veal cut into neat pieces and ham thinly sliced, and sprinkle over each layer a little pepper and salt, and add pounded mace. Pour a quarter of a pint of veal gravy over the meat ; lay a cover of pastry on the top, moisten the edge of the piece of pastry, draw it over the cover, and press the two closely together. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it, and tie the basin loosely in it. Plunge it into fastboiling water, and boil quickly irntil done enough. Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, turn it upon a dish, and serve very hot. A pound and a half of lean veal and half a pound of ham will make a moderate-sized pudding. Time to boil the pudding, two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Veal Pudding, Baked. Take half a pound of cold roast veal carefully freed from skin, fat, and gristle, and finely minced. IMix thoroughly with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Pour half a pint of nicely-flavoured boiling gravy (made by stewing the trimmings of the veal in water) over two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let this cool, then stir into it the minced veal, and add three well-beaten eggs. Whisk the mixture briskly for a minute or two, turn it into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. If liked, the crimibs may be soaked in cream instead of gravy. Time to bake the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal Quenelles (an entree). Take a slice of lean veal from tlie leg, cut it in long thin slices, and scrape it with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains. Put it in a mortar, pound for ten minutes, then pass it through a wire sieve upon a plate. Put back in a mortar six ounces of the veal thus prepared, also four ounces of panada, and three ounces of fresh butter. Pound these ingredients together tiU they are perfectly blended and form a smooth paste, and add gradually a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace or grated nutmeg. The more the forcemeat is pounded the better it will be. Moisten gradually with two whole eggs, and pound it again. Poach a smaU ball in boiling water to see if the forcemeat is light, fine, and delicately flavoured. If it is not sufficiently firm, add the yolk only of another egg. The white will only serve to render the quenelles hollow and puffy inside. A small quantity of white sauce will improve the forcemeat, which should be kept in a cool place till wanted. Half an hour before the quenelles ai'e to be served mould the forcemeat into small balls, roll these in flour, and throw them into fast-boiling water slightly salted. When they are done enough take them up, put them on a dish, pour on them haK a pint of nicely-flavoured white sauce, and serve very hot. Mushrooms or trutiies may bo added to the sauce if Kked. Time to poach the quenelles, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, veal, Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for a small dish. Veal Quenelles (another way). Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with a knife till you have got ofl: all the meat without the sinews. About haK a VEA ( 1062 ) VEA pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for a dish. Boil a calf's udder, cither in your stockj)ot or in plain water. When it is done and has become cold, trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar till it can he ruhhed through a sieve. All that part which has been thus strained through the sieve you make into a haU of the same size as the meat, which j-ou have also rolled into .a ball ; you then make a panada. You must have three balls, one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada. TJdc. Veal Hissoles. Take about thi-ee-quarters of a pound of cold roast veal, free from skin, gristle, and fat, and a quarter of a pound of ham or bacon. Cut the meat into slices, then mince very finely. Mix with the meat half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg grated, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and three table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cream, milk, or strong unsalted gra\y. Form the paste into balls the size of a small orange. Flour the balls, then dip them into beaten egg and bread-crumbs ; let them stand an hour, then dip them in again. Fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly browned all over. Drain them, serve on a hot dish with good gravy pom-ed round but not iipon them, and place fried rashers of bacon round them. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time to fry the rissoles, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal Rissoles (another way) . Take some cold veal, a little cold ham, some parsley, a small quantity of thjTne, a little lemon-peel, and one anchovy; chop them all very small, and mix them with a few bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg to taste. Wet them with an egg, and make them into little balls or pyramids ; then dip them in and roll them in bread-crumbs ; fry them brown, and serve with a good beef-gravy in the dish. Beef may be done in the same waj-. Veal Rissoles, Gravy for. Put the bones of the veal broken up small, with the trimmings and any other bones that are to be iad, into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a large onion finely minced. Shake the saucepan over the fire tUl the onion is lightly browned, then pom- upon them as much thin fiour and water as will barely cover them. Add a bunch of parslej', a blade of mace, an inch of lemon-rind, six or eight peppercorns, and a little sugar browning ; cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until the stock is strong and pleasantly flavom-ed. Strain and cool it, then clear it from fat. Add a dessert- spoonful of ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and also a little pepper and salt. Let it boil up, and it will be ready for serving. Time, about an hour and a half to simmer the gravj-. Veal, Roast. Veal requires to be roasted carefully if it is to be nicely browned. It is always best to fasten a sheet of oUed or buttered paper over the joint. Hang it close to a clear tire, and at the end of twenty minutes draw it back and let it roast slowly till done enough. Baste with good dripping every quarter of an houi'. Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a Little fiour over the joint, and baste with fresh butter melted for the jDurpose in a spoon. Sprinkle a little salt over it five minutes before serving. Those joints which are not stuffed shoidd have forcemeat balls sent to table with them. Ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork should accompany roast veal. A little brown gravy should be poured over the joint, and a little more served in the tureen. Veal, Roast (a la Langucdociennc) . Roast a joint of veal in the usual way, and baste liberally with good dripping. Half an hour before taking it uji, baste with a mixture of oil and -inegar in which two anchovies and five or six peppercorns have been infused. When the veal is to be served, skim the gra\y, and pour it round the veal in the dish. Veal, Roast, Sauce for. Brown sauce is generally ser\'ed with roast veal {see Veal, Gravy for), and clear brown gravy, melted butter coloured with ketchup, tomato, sorrel sauce, and bechamel are also served with it. Or a sauce may be prepared as follows : Mince an anchovy, and boil it with a minced shallot in good stock till the anchovy is dissolved. Strain it, stir into it a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful of port, let it boil, then mix it with the gravy in the dish. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the gravy. Veal Roll, Baked. Mince finely from two to three pounds of undressed lean veal and one pound of good streaky bacon. Add to the mince a salt- spoonful of white pepper, the grated rind of a small lemon, half a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, a minced shallot, an ounce of finely-grated bread-criunbs, and a little salt the quantity to be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Form the mince into a roll, cover with oiled paper, and wrap it in coarse paste made of flovu- and water. Bake in a moderate oven. Turn it out, and serve with good brown sauce poured round it {see Veal Forcemeat, EoU of). Time to bake the roU, about two hours. Veal Rolls, Eried. Take the remains of cold roast veal. Cut from it half a dozen slices of lean meat half an inch thick. Brush these over with egg, cover with a thin slice of fat bacon, 2 again, spread forcemeat upon them, and roll tightly. Skewer securety, and bread-crumb the rolls, and fry till they are brightly browned. Serve on a hot dish, and pour mushroom sauce or brown gravy over them. Garnish -with sliced lemon and parsley. Time to fry the roUs, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for thi-ee or four persons. Veal Sausages. Take equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon. Mince finely, and to every pound of meat add a tea-spoonful of minced sage and a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Bind the mixture together with yolk of egg, aad form it into VEA ( 1063 ) VEA rolls or flat cakes, and fry or bake these in the usual way. Two or three anchovies may ho added to the mince if approved. Veal Sausages with Pork. Take equal quantities of veal and pork. Mince them, fii-st separately and afterwards together, and with them half their weight in beef suet free from skin and hbre. A\'ith every pound of meat put a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, and season the mixture rather highly with pepper and salt. Clean and fill the skins in the usual way, and the sausages are made, if they are to be used immediately, a httle crmnb of bread soaked in water may be beaten up with them. Veal Scallops, Fried. Take about two pounds of veal from the tiUet. Trim away the fat, gristle, and skin, and cut it into rounds half an inch thick and the size of a crown piece. Flatten these with the cutlet-bat, and season with a little pepper and salt. Butter the frying-pan thickly, put in the scallops side by side, and fry till they are brightly browned on both sides. Take them up, and keep them hot in the oven till the sauce is readj'. Dredge a tablespoonful of flour into the fat in the frying-pan, stir for a minute, and moisten the paste with three-quarters of a pint of stock. Let it boil, and pour into it the gravy which has come from the scallops. Stii- into the sauce a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Take it from the fire, dissolve a slice of fresh butter in it, pour it over the veal, and serve. Time, eight to ten minutes to fry the scallops. Veal Scallops, White. Prepare the scallops as in the last recipe {see Veal .Scallops, Fried), and fry them in clarified butter, taking care that though thoroughly cooked they do not acquire any colour. Drain them, arrange them in a circle on a dish, pour good white sauce round them, and put dressed celery, dressed artichokes, or fried potatoes in the centre of the dish. Veal, Scallops of. Cold. Mince the meat very small, and set it over the fire for a few minutes with some nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little cream ; then put it into the scallopshells, and fill them up with crumbs of bread, over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the fire. Veal, Shoulder of. Owing, no doubt, to the fact that the meat on this joint is rather coarse, the shoulder of veal is not so highly valued as other portions, and is seldom served, excepting as a family dish. It is occasionally plainly boiled, but is more frequently stuffed and roasted or braised. The knuckle should always be cut off and used to enrich the stew or to make gi'avy. Probable cost, if bought whole, 8 d. per pound ; if cut, 9d. Veal, Shotdder of, Boiled. Cut off the knuckle, and di'aw out the bones. Kub the under part with a cut lemon, and sprinkle over it pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Roll the meat, and skewer it neatly. Putitintoastewpan, cover with milk and water, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Carefull} remove the scum as it rises, or the appearance of the dish will be spoilt. Send good onion sauce to table -svith it, and serve boiled bacon or pickled pork on a separate dish. This dish is by most people considered insipid. Time, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, Bid. per pound, if bought whole. Veal, Shotdder of. Boned. The butcher will, if desired, perform the operation of boning, which is rather troublesome to those not accustomed to it. Lay the joint upon the table, skin downwards. With a sharp knife detach the flesh from the blade-bone first on one side and then on the other, and be especially careful not to pierce the outer skin. When the bone is quite free, loosen it from the socket, and di-aw it out. The bone of the knuckle is sometimes left in, but when it is necessary to remove it the same rules need to be observed. The knife must be worked close to the bone, and the outer skin must not be pierced. An excellent grill may be made of the blade-bone if a little of the meat is left on it. Veal, Shoulder of. Braised (to eat cold). Take a whole shoidder of veal weighing about nine pounds. Cut off the knuckle, and bone the joint entirely without piercing the skin. Place the joint on the table skin downwards, trim neatly, cut away some of the meat to make it even, sprinkle salt and pepper upon it, and spread over it a layer two inches and a half thick of good forcemeat made with equal parts of lean veal and fat bacon minced, pounded, and pressed through a sieve, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; tv.o or thi-ce finely-minced trufties may, if Hked, be added to the forcemeat. Fold the shoulder over to enclose the forcemeat, bind it with tape, and roll it in a napkin. Tie the ends securely, and fasten string round the roll to keep it in shape. Place the veal in a braising-pan upon a bed of sliced vegetables; put with it the bones and trimmings of the veal, including the knuckle, also two blanched calf's feet, the blanched rind of the bacon which was used for the forcemeat, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over all as much boilijQg stock as will barely cover the veal, put it on the fire, let it boil up, skim carefully, and simmer gently for four hours. Take it from the fire, but let it remain in the liquor till cool. Take it up, remove the napkin, tie it in a fresh one, and place upon it a dish with a weight. Let it remain until the next day. Remove the napkin, brush the veal over two or three times with liquid glaze, and ser\'e it, garnished with parsley, aspic jelly, kc. This jelly may be made of the liquor in which the shoulder was simmered, strained, freed from fat, and clarified. The calf's feet which were stewed with the veal may be served with sauce on a separate dish {see Calf's Foot a la Poulette). This is a good dish for a picnic or for a cold collation. Time to simmer the veal, four hours. Veal, Shoulder of. Stuffed and Roasted. Cut the knuckle from a shoulder of veal, draw out the blade-bone, and fill the ca\nty thus made with good veal forcemeat. If preferred, the blade-bone may be left in, and the forcemeat spread over the part where the knuckle was cut off, and also under the flao. VEA ( 1064 ) VEA The broad end of the shoulder must then be turned and skewered over the forcemeat. Tie a piece of oiled or greased paper over the joint, hang it tolerably near a clear fire, and at the end of twenty minutes draw it back and roast it gently until done enough. Basfe every quarter of an hour. Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge the joint with flour, and baste till it is nicely browned. Place it on a dish, pom- good brown sauce round it, and serve with a cut lemon on a plate. Send ham or bacon to table with it. Time to roast a shoulder of veal, three hours to three hours and a half. Probable cost, 8id. per pound, if bought whole. Veal, Shoulder of, Stuffed and Stewed. liemove the blade-bone from a shoulder of veal. Season the inside with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, sprinkle over it minced savoury herbs, such as parsley and chives, together with a few mushrooms, and spread over these thin slices of ham or bacon. KoU the veal, and bind it tightly with tape. Put it in a saucepan which will just hold it over a clear fire with a slice of butter or a piece of dripping, and turn it about till lightly browned all over, or, if preferred, roast it for an hour and a half. Take it up, put it into a deep dish, cover with good stock, and add two onions, a sliced carrot, a bimch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Stew the veal very gently in a moderate oven till it is so tender that a skewer will pierce it easily. Strain and skim the gravy, and thicken a portion of it with a little brown thickening. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Stewed mushrooms, green peas, and various kinds of dressed vegetables maj-- be served with this dish. Some cooks, instead of first browning the meat, put it at once into a dish, pour stock over it, surround it with herbs, onions, carrots, &c., then cover the dish with a coarse paste of flour and water, and bake the veal in a moderate oven. Though the taste of the veal thus dressed is excellent, its appearance is not so good as when it is browned as above. Time to bake the veal, a shoulder which weighs ten pounds before it is boned will need five hours. Probable cost, 8 d. per pound. Veal Soup. Take two poimds of the knuckle of veal. Divide it into three or four pieces, and put these into a stewpan with any bones or trimmings of veal or poultry that may be at hand, and add a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few c uter sticks of celery, an onion with a clove stuck into it, a small blade of mace, six or eight peppercorns, a little salt, and two table- spoonfuls of rice. Pour over these ingredients about five pints of cold stock or water, and let the soup simmer gently from three to four hoxu's. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain the stock, season and flour as much of it as may be required for table with salt, white pepper, lemon-juice, and pounded mace, and thicken Avith white thickening. If preferred, this soup may be served with the boiled rice in it, and vnth sippets or forcemeat balls. The veal may be cut into neat pieces and served with parsley and butter or egg sauce. Veal Soup ( a Geiman recipe) . Should the breast of veal be chosen, allow one pound to every quart of water ; in the case of knuckle of veal, allow two pounds to the quart. Let the water come slowly to the simmering point, add salt, and skim well ; continue simmering for at least two hours. Add rice, sago, or klbsse to give the soup substance. Ten minutes before sending to table, add in small pieces cauliflower, scorzonera, or asparagus, previously cooked. Finely-minced chives may be thrown in the last thing, or an onion may be boiled in the soup, and taken out before the other vegetable is added. Veal Soup (a plain family dish). Take about four pounds of the knuckle of veal, and cut it into five or six pieces, sawing through the bones neatly. Put these in a stewpan, pour over them as much cold water as will freely cover them, and let the liquor boil. Skim carefully, draw it to the side, and let it simmer for an hour. Throw in with it five or six turnips, two onions, and a few outer sticks of celery, and let it simmer gently for another hour. Mix a table-spoonful of flour or groimd rice to a smooth paste with cold water, stir a little of the boiling liquor into it, and add it to the rest. Let it boil a short time longer. Half an hour before the soup is to be served throw into it a pinch of powdered mushrooms, six or eight sliced potatoes; and ten or fifteen minutes before it is served put in half a dozen small dumplings. Add pepper and salt to taste. Serve the veal on a dish with the dumplings and vegetables round it, and send the soup to table in a tureen. If liked, a little sugar browning may be added to the soup to colour it. Time, three hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Suflicient for seven or eight persons. Veal Soup with Bice or Forcemeat Balls. The veal is to be blanched in the usual way, but the water in which it has been seethed is not to be thrown away, as it contains some of the strength of the meat; but take out the meat, clean it, and lay it in cold water to become perfectly white. Then pass the water used in the boiling through a sieve, pour it over the veal, and boil the whole together. Having clarified the liquor by skimming, add a piece of butter, some salt, and half a lemon, which tastes excellently with rice ; on ser-ving, beat eggs into the liquor, to which add rice mixed with a piece of butter, and mace grated over it : it makes a very beautiful strong soup. When forcemeat balls are used instead of the rice, they should be boiled in a basin, and added to the soup, along with the meat and vegetable roots ; beating up the soup with eggs, and grating nutmeg over it. Ude. Veal Stew. Take about four pounds of veal, the chump end of the loin, or part of the leg, or a portion of the breast from which the bones have been removed will answer excellently for the purpose. Cut it into neat pieces about two inches square, or if preferred let it VEA ( 1065 ) VEA remain whole. Rub it over with butter, then put it into a stewpan with two moderate-sized onions thinly sliced, and turn it about over a clear tire till it is brightly browned. Dredge flour upon it, put with it the j nice and thin rind ?f half a lemon, a lumji of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, and then cover with some nicely-flavoured veal gravy. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew very gently till the meat is tender without being too much dressed. Pour most of the gravy into a clean saucepan, thicken it with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, or with a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and a tea-spoonful of sugar browning. Add a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, half a glassful of sherrj', and a few stewed mushrooms if these are to be had. Put the meat into the thickened gravy, let it get quite hot, then serve on a hot dish with the gravy pom-ed over it. Fresh or pickled cucumber may accompany this dish. The gravy may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the veal for an hour or more in a quart of water with a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thj-me, a blade of mace, and six or eight peppercorns. Time to stew the veal, one hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 4s. lOd., exclusive of the wine. Veal Stew, Piquant. Take two pounds of lean veal from the fiUet. Cut these into pieces half an inch square, season with salt Jind pepper, dredge them with flour, and fry in butter till lightly browned. Fry with them a moderate-sized cucumber sliced and floured, a quarter of a pint of green gooseberries opened and seeded, a shred lettuce, and a few onions if liked. Move the vegetables about whilst they are being fried to keep them from burning. Lift the ingredients into a saucepan, pour over them gradually as much boiling stock or water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer gently till the meat is tender. Servo very hot. Time to stew the veal, &c., about an" hour. Probable cost, Ss. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Stew with Green Peas. Stew the veal as before. Add to the other ingredients a pint or more of freshly- shelled green peas. Let the veal stew till it is three-parts dressed, put in with it a lettuce finely shred, and let it stew half an hour after this is added. Thicken the gravy, and serve the veal on a hot dish with the gravy and peas poured over it. Time, about two hours. Veal Tea for Infants and Invalids. Take a pound of lean veal, cut it into small pieces, sprinkle a pinch of salt over it, put it into a saucepan, and pour upon it a pint of cold water. Let it boil, and skim carefully, then simmer gently for an hour. Pour it out, strain it, and it will be ready for use. To thicken it, mix a tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a tablespoonful of cold water, and stir the boiling tea slowly into this, or boil a spoonful of arrowroot or sago in the liquor a quarter of an hour before using it. A little new milk may be added to the tea occasionally for the sake of variety. Time to simmer the tea, one hour. Probable cost, veal, lid. per pound. The above ingre- I 73 dients are sufiicient for a breakfast-cupful of tea. Veal, Tendons of. The tendons of veal are the gristly portions found at the extremity of the bones towards the thick end of a breast of veal. They are frequently cut oft' (care being taken not to spoil the appearance of the joint), and served on a separate dish as an entree. When the 'breast of veal is large it is well that this should be done, as they are often lost by being undei'dressed. They must, of course, be cut oft" the meat before it is dressed. The place where the tendons begin and the ribs end is shown by a line of white gristle. Veal, Tendons of (a la Proven ale). Take the tendons of a breast of veal, and cut them in pieces two inches square. Pour four ounces of salad oil into a good-sized saucepan, andadd two moderate- sized onions finely minced, a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Put the pan on a slow fire, and place lighted embers on the lid that the cooking jirocess may be carried oii above as well as below. Stir the preparation frequently, and let it simmer gently till the gi-istles are tender. Pour in half a pint of stock, boil for five minutes, and without skimming the fat from the gravy. Serve the tendons in a dish with the gravy poured over them. Veal, Tendons of, Curried. Take the tendons from one or two breasts of veal, being careful in doing so not to spoil the joint for stewing or roasting. Put them into a deep stewpan with two carrots, two onions (each stuck with a clove), a strip of lemon-rind, a bay- leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Pour over them a pint of good stock, and let them sinamer gently till tender. Take them up carefully with a skimmer, pull out any hard parts that may remain, and press them between two dishes till cold. Strain the liquor in which they were stewed, and when it is cool free it from fat. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter with a finely-minced api lc. Stir these in a saucepan over the fire till they are soft, rub them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and a dessert-spoonful of ground rice. Add the stock gradually, and stir the sauce over the fire till it boils. Cut the tendons into rounds, squares, or diamonds half an inch thick, and about an inch and a half across. Put them into the curry sauce, and let them remain until they are heated through. Dish them alternately with fried rashers of bacon in a circle on a hot dish, and pour the curry sauce over and round them. Send rice boiled for oun-y to table on a separate dish. Time, fourhours to simmer the tendons. Probable cost, uncertain, the tendons being sold with the of veal. Veal Tendons, Fried. Stew the tendons in the usual way, and place them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into slices half an inch thick. Brush them over with beaten egg, dip them into bread-crumbs, and fry them over a slow fire of a pale brown. Serve vei'v hot. Take half a pint of the sauce in whieli they were stewed, stir into it two table-spoonfuls VEA ( 1066 ) VEA of chopped mushrooms, two table-spoonfuls of sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten up with three table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir this sauce over the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Dish the fried tendons in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and servo very hot. Sometimes the sauce is thickened with yolk of egg and allowed to get cold, then the sliced tendons are dipped into it, afterwards into bread-crumbs, and fried as before. Time, four hours to simmer the tendons. Veal Tendons, Fried (a la Villeroi). Stew the tendons in the usual way, and when they are tender put them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into neat slices half an inch thick and about an inch and a half square, and place them in a marinade of equal parts of oil and vinegar, with a sliced onion and a strijj of lemon-rind put under tliem, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over them. Let them remain in this for three hours. Drain ;uid dry them, dip them in frying batter, and fry till they axe brown. Serve in a circle, 'W'ith tomato sauce in the centre of the dish. Time, four hoiLrs to simmer the tendons. Veal Tendons, Stewed. Cut the tendons oif the breast of veal, leaving the flap of meat on the ribs, and divide them into pieces six inches long. Wrap these in slices of fat bacon, tie them with twine, and place them in a saucepan on a bed of sliced vegetables, consisting of a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a few outer sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, eight peppercorns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a strip of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Pour over them as much stock or water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently tiU they look almost transparent and are so tender that they can be i ierced easily with a skewer. Take them up carefully, put them between two dishes, and leave them till cold. Strain the gTavy in which they were simmered, remove the fat from it, and boil till it is considerably reduced. Trim the tendons, heat them in their own gravy, glaze them with it, dish them in a circle, pour a little of the gravy round them, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Serve dressed vegetables in the centre of the dish. Green peas, stewed spinach, stewed sorrel, mixed vegetables, and artichoke puree may accompany them, also tomato or mushroom sauce. Time to simmer the tendons, four hours. Probable cost, uncertain, tendons being usually sold with the breast of veal. Veal Tendons, Stewed, and served with Mixed Vegetables. Stew the tendons as before. AYarm them in gravy, glaze them, and serve in a circle on a dish with a mixture of vegetables boiled separately and heated in a little good white sauce. Time to stew the tendons, about four hours. Veal, To Keep. As veal when once tainted cannot be recovered like beef or mutton, it is important that every precaution should be taken to preserve it in good condition till it is dressed. It shoiild be kept in a cool larder, and examined daily. It should be kept hanging, too, for if it is laid on a dish the pressure alone wiU cause it to taint. The pipe which runs along the chine of the loin and the kernels from the fat should be removed as soon as possible. ? The skirt of the breast, too, should be taken ofl:', and the inside wiped and dredged with flour. The part of the leg which becomes most quickly tainted is that where the udder lies. The skewer should therefore be removed, and that portion examined every day. If there is any indication that veal is likely to become tainted, it should be plunged into boiling water, boiled quickly for ten minutes, then di'ied thorouglily, hung in a cool larder, and dressed as soon as possible. Veal Tongue, To Preserve. Trim the tongue, and put it into boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Drain and dry it, take off the skin, and rub thoroughly with salt which has been mixed with a small proportion of saltpetre and a few savoury herbs chopped small. Put it into an earthen jar, sprinkle a handful of chopped herbs upon it, and lay a weight upon it to keep it under the brine. Keep it in a cool, well-ventilated place, and turn and rub it every day for ten days. Drain and dry it, put it in a large polony-skin properly cleansed, and tie it securely at both ends. If it is to be smoked, hang it over a small fire of juniper wood, upon which aromatic herbs are occasionallj' thrown. Veal, Vol-au-Vent of. Make a vol-auvent case the size and shape of the dish in which it is to be served, and bake in a brisk oven {sec Vol-au-Vent). When done, take out the lid, scrape out the soft pastry, and put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry. Fill carefully with a hot savoury ragout prepared as follows : Cut some lean veal into thin slices the size of haK-a-crown. Beat these w4th a cutlet-bat, and fry them till they are lightly browned. Cover with rich brown thick gravy highly flavoured {see Veal, Gravy for), put with them a few fried forcemeat balls, and serve the vol-au-vent on a napkin. Small volau-vents may be filled with the savoury preparation recommended for veal patties. Veal, Wholesomeness of. "Veal," says Dr. Graham, looking at the subject from the medical point of view, " is usually considered not at all of a heating nature, and is therefore allowed, perhaps generally by the profession, to patients convalescent from an attack of fever, and to those who have a disposition to bleeding from the lungs or elsewhere, especially with the addition of some acid ; but it is, in my opinion, so verj indigestible an article, and has uniformly so strong a tendency to irritate *he stomach and intestines, that I wholly proscribe its use wherever persons are not strong and healthy. In aU stomach complaints it is peculiarly injurious. The flesh of calves which have been robbed of their blood by repeated bleedings, or reared by the hand with milk adulterated with chalk, and confinement in small dark places so as to prevent motion, is unusually depraved." Veal with Cucumbers. Roast a neck or a loin of veal, or any veal that is left. The leg part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold, cut it into scallops, and put it into the sauce blanquette. Take six fine VEG ( 1067 ) VEG cueumters, cut them into qxiarters, pare them about the size of the scallops; then take the parings and some other pieces, which minc o with a little onion to make a puree. Fry the onions and the trimmings of the cucumbers together in a little butter ; when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten with sauce toumee, and stew them on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and rub this sauce through a tamis. Put the other whole cucumbers into some sauce tournee, and let them boil till done. Before putting the cucumbers in the sauce, they must be marinaded in a basin with a little salt and a thimbleful of white vinegar; let them remain for half an hour, and then drain them in a clean towel, and put them in the sauce, if you have any ; otherwise, put them in a stewpan with a small bit of butter, a bundle of parsley, and green onions ; fry them gently, then singe them with about a spoonful of fine white flour, and moisten with good broth; let that boil for an hour in the corner of the stove, skim all the butter, di-ain the cucumbers in a hair sieve, and reduce the sauce thick enough to receive the thickening. Mind, when you have no sauce in your larder, you must use the same principle to make white or brown sauce in a moment. Tide. Vegetable Consomm , made with Dried Vegetables. Put a pint of white haricot beans and a pint of lentils into a stewpan with an onion, a pinch of salt, a bunch of parsley, and a small sprig of thyme. Pour over these ingredients three quarts of water, then boil and simmer them gently for three hours. Strain the liquor. Fry the vegetables, and proceed as for Vegetable Consomme, made with Fresh Vegetables. Vegetable Consomm , or Vegetable Gravy Soup, made with Fresh Vegetables. Dissolve in a stewpan four ounces of fresh butter. Throw into it two large carrots, two onions, two leeks, a head of celery, and a turnip, aU cut small, together with a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a shallot. Cover the pan closely, put it on the fire, and shake it occasionally till the vegetables are lightly coloured. Put a pint of freshly-sheUed greeii peas into a separate stewpan with three quarts of water. Let them boil, then poui- them upon the fried vegetables. Let the liquor boil, skim till it is quite clear, and put into it a crust of toasted bread, a blade of mace, six allspice, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Cover closely, and simmer gently for two hours or more. Skim off the fat, strain it into a bowl, and let it stand in a cool place until clear. When wanted, pour it off carefully, not to disturb any sediment that may still remain, boil VEGETABLE KNIFE. it, and serve very hot with fried sippets. If it is wished that vegetables should be served in it, cut the red part of a carrot, an onion, a turnip, and about two sticks of celery into thin strips an inch long. For this purpose a vegetable knife, such as shown in the illustration. will be found useful. Put these in a saucepan, cover with cold water, boil for five minutes, and drain them on a sieve. Pour the clear soup into a stewpan, tlu-ow in the roots, and simmer gently till they are tender. Add salt and pepper if required. Dried vegetables {see Vegetables, Dried, for Julienne Soup) may be used instead of fresh ones to throw into the soup, and will save some trouble. Vegetable Ctirry. A mixture of vegetables may be used for curry. The most suitable are celery, onions, cauliflowers, young cabbages, Ciicimabers, green peas, French beans, spinach, and sorrel. Mince or slice the vegetables. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan ; roll the vegetables in curry powder, and toss them in the butter till they are half dressed. Pour over them as much cream or gravy mixed smoothly with curry powder or paste as will cover them, and stew till tender. Add a little salt, and serve with rice boiled for curry on a separate dish. A table-spoonful of lemon-juice is generally considered an improvement to this dish. If Uked, a small quantity of mashed potatoes or fried onions and an apple rubbed through a sieve may be added to the curry sauce. Shrimps or prawns may also be added if approved. Time altogether, about an hour. VEGETABLE CUTTER. Vegetable Cutters. By means of these little instruments vegetables are cut into fanciful shapes, to the great improvement in appearance of those dishes in which vegetables form an impoi-tant feature. Vegetable Essences, To Extract. The flavour of various herbs may be extracted as follows : Pick the leaves, and put them in a warm place for an hour or two. FiU a large wide-mouthed bottle with them, and pour upon them wine, brandy, spirits of wine, or vinegar. Let them soak for a fortnight. Strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for use. Vegetable Food. The different articles of nourishment derived from the vegetable kingdom may be divided into five orders, viz. : (1) The different sorts of farina, or grain for example, wheat, barley, oats, and rice ; (2) the legumes, or pulse, as peas and beans; (3) the different kinds of salads and pot-herbs ; (4) aU the different sorts of roots ; and (5) fruits. The following are the chief vegetable ahments and condiments, and for particulars regarding them and their uses the reader is referred to the articles under their respective headings : Almond Apple Apricot Arro-wboot Artichoke Asparagus Barberries Barley VEG ( 1068 ) VEG Bean Mango Beet Maple 'Blackbekry Marigold Bread-fruit Medlar. Broccoli Melon Brussels Sprouts Mint Cabbage Mulberry Carrot Mushroom Cauliflower Mustard Celeriac Nasturtium Celery Nectarine Cherry Nutmeg Chestnut Oat Chocolate Olive Cinnamon Onion Citron Orange Cloves Parsley Cocoa-nut Parsnip Coffee Pea Cranberry Peach Cucumber Pear Currant Pepper Damson Pine-apple Date Pistachio-nut Elder Plantain Endive Plum Fennel Pomegranate Fig Potato Garlic Prune Gherkin Pumpkin Ginger Quince Gooseberry Radish Grape Raisin Haricot Beans Raspberry Hazel-nut Rice Hop Rye Horseradish Sago Jerusalem Artichoke Salep Kidney Bean Sea-kale Leek Spinach Lemon Strawberry Lettuce Sugar Lime Tapioca Maize, or Indian Tea Corn Walnut Mangel-wurzel Yam Vegetable Hache. Ftysome onions cut in slices till they are of a pale brown. Fiy them with butter, and add any kind of vegetables previously boiled. Chop them up, and stew all together. Stir well over a slow fire, and when about half done add some sUced chillies and tomatoes. If the pan be dry put in a very little gravy. Sgme sorrel or a glassful of vinegar may be added. Time to stew, half an hour. Vegetable Marrow. The vegetable marrow appears to be merely a variety of the pumpkin. It was brought into Europe from Persia, and is now much cultivated in Britain. It is a hardy plant, and its fruit is of excellent quality, and useful for culinary purposes at almost every stage of its growth. The best known sort is, when fully grown, elliptic in shape, very smooth, and generally about nine inches long, and four inches in diameter. There are, however, several other varieties, of different shapes and sizes. Vegetable Marrow, Cooking of the. The vegetable marrow may be dressed in a variety of ways, and is wholesome and excellent in all. Various recipes are given below. It comes into season towards the end of summer, and even after it is cut if it is himg by the stalk in a cool dry place it will keep for some weeks. The best marrows are those about six inches long. Very small marrows are likely to be deficient in flavour. Very large ones will be fuU of seed. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. VE&ETABLt MARKOV Vegetable Marrow Fried in Butter. Pare and quarter the marrows, and boil them in the usual way for ten minutes, or until they are three -parts dressed. Drain them, sprinkle a little jjeppCr and salt upon them, and dip them in good frying batter. Fry in oil or lard till they are brightly browned. Lift them upon a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley over them, and serve either alone or as an accompaniment to di-essed meat. The frjdng batter may be made as follows : Put six ounces of flour into a bowl, mix a tea-spoonful of salt with it, and work it into a paste with a qmirter of a pint of water. Add a table-spoonful of oil and the well-beaten yolk of one egg, and beat the paste till it is quite smooth. Let the batter stand in a cool place for an hour. A quarter of an hour before it is wanted add the whites of two eggs whisked to a firm froth. Vegetable Marrow in "White Sauce or Gravy. Boil a large marrow in the usual way. When three-parts cooked, take it up, cut it into squares, i)lace these in a saucepan, and pour over them as much white sauce or thick brown gravy as will cover them. Let them heat gently. Serve in a vegetable-dish with the sauce poured over them. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost of marrows, 2d. to 6d. each. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Vegetable Marrow in White Sauce (another way). Pare and quarter three goodsized vegetable marrows. Remove the seeds, cut the quarters into pieces about two inches long, and shape each piece in a point at the top and fiat at the bottom. BoU until tender. Place them standing side bj- side on a hot diah, pour VEG ( 1069 ) VEG some good white sauce round them, and serve as hot as possible. Or iiftcr boiling, cut them into dice, and boil them up in some good white sauce. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the maiTOwB. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost of marrows, 2d. to 6d. each. Vegetable Marrow Marmalade. Pare and seed any quantity of moderatesized vegetable marrows, and cut them into thin slices. Weigh them, and allow a pound of loaf sugar, the rind of half a small lemon chopped small, and a cupful of water to every pound of marrow. Boil the sugar and water to a clear syrup. Put in the marrow, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half. Be careful that it does not bum. Strip the thick white skin from the lemons, slice them, take away the pips, mix these slices with the marmalade, and let all boil together for a quarter of an hour. Turn the marmalade into jars, and cover these in the usual way. An excellent imitation of preserved ginger may be made with vegetable marrow {see Ginger, Preserved, Imitation of). Vegetable Marrow Preserve. Peel the marrows, remove all the seeds, cut the marrows in pieces the size of large plums, boil them with their weight in sugar till the pieces become transparent. No water whatever is required. Then flavour with ginger and lemon, or ginger or lemon, according to taste. Vegetable Marrow, Preserved. Peel the marrows, take away the seeds, and cut the vegetable into small pieces. To every potmd of marrow add half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, and half an ounce of grated ginger. Put the whole into a basin, and let it stand all night ; next day pour the juice into a pan, and let it boil ; then add the vegetable. Boil all together for an hour and a half, or until it becomes thick and transparent. If put into a mould it wiU not affect the acid, and the -preserve will look very nice when turned out for use. Most vegetables may be prepared in the same way. Vegetable Marrow Sauce, for Poixl try. Pare and skin the marrows, and boU till tender; then rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp with salt and cayenne, and thicken either with stock or with cream. Serve the sauce very hot. Vegetable Marrow Soup. Pare and cut in quarters a large vegetable marrow, and remove from it the seeds. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, and put in the marrow with a Httle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a large lump of sugar. Shake it over the fire for a few minutes, and moisten with as much stock or water as will cover it. Let it stew gently until tender, and rub it through a fine hair sieve. Put with it as much boiling stock as will make it of the consistency of thick gruel. Add a cupful of boiling cream or milk, and season with pepper and salt. Stir over the fire till quite hot, and serve with fried sippets. The stock may be made from bone ; or the liquor in which mutton, veal, or poultry has been boiled may be used. Vegetable Marrow Soup (another way). Boil five or six small vegetable marrows, peeled and cut into eight pieces, in a quart of good rich veal stock ; put them into the boiling stock, and simmer gently threequarters of an hour. Then beat the pulp through a sieve, and return it with an additional pint of stock, to be made hot together. Season with pepper and salt, and just before serving the soup, stir in a breakfast-cupful of cream, which should be first made quite hot. Time, one hour. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Vegetable Marrow Soup (another way). Take two pounds of vegetable marrow peeled and cut into dice about an inch square ; put it into a pan with three ounces of salt butter or fat, two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, the same of salt, a little pepper, and half a pint of water. Stew gently until it is quite soft. When in a jiulp stir in well two table-spoonfuls of flour ; then add three pints of new milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, or three pints of stock but do not mix the stock and milk. Boil for ten minvites, and serve Avith fried toast cut into small squares. Vegetable Marrow, Spring Soup of. Pare the marrows, remove the seeds, and cut them into small pieces; weigh, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter about the size of an egg, and stew gently imtil the marrow is reduced to a pulp. Add boiling stock, a little at a time, in the proportion of a pint of stock to a pound of marrow, weighed before cooking. Add salt, a small lump of sugar, and cayenne, and serve with toasted sijipets. Time, about half an hour to simmer the marrows. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. Vegetable Marrow, Stuffed. Peel thinly two moderate-sized marrows ; then cut a tliick piece off one end of each, and scoop out the seeds. Press closely into the hollows some good pork sausage meat, or if prefen-ed some nicely-seasoned minced beef or nmtton. Tie the piece wliich was cut off into its original position with twine. If there should be any difficulty about scooping out the seeds, the marrows may be divided into halves lengthways, and filled with sausage meat, the pieces may then be pressed closely together, and tied in three or four places with twine. Having thus prepared the marrows, lay them in a saucepan, put a slice of Initter upon each, and sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Pour upon them half a pint of stock, and add a table-spoonful of \-inegar. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the marrows as gently as possible for four hours. Baste frequently with the sauce. Lift them carefully upon a dish, skim the fat from the sauce, strain it over them, and serve. This dish may be rendered more piquant by rubbing a freshly-cut clove of garlic qmckly across the saucepan before the marrows are put into it, and adding the juice of three or four ripe tomatoes pressed through nmslin to the sauce. Time to stew the marrows, four hours. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. VEG ( IWTO ) VEG Vegetable Marrows, Boiled. Peel the marrows, free them from seed, cut them into six or eight pieces, and put them into boiling water ; let them boil gently till tender. Lift them up carefully with a slice, put them on toast, pour melted butter or white sauce over them, and serve. No. 2. Put the marrow whole and without skinning it into boiling water. Let it boil until tender. Take it up, halve, pare, and seed it, lay the halves on toast, with the hollow part uppermost, and fill them with rich melted butter. No. 3. Pare and seed the marrows, divide them into quarters, and the quarters into halves. Trim them neatly. Rub the inside of a saucepan with butter. Lay the pieces of marrow in it, and sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and pounded sugar. Pour upon them half a pint of veal stock, and boil gently till tender. Lift them upon a dish ; add to the gravy the juice of haK a lemon and a little piece of butter ; pour it over the marrow, and serve. If liked, the marrows may be stewed in milk instead of gravy, and they may be seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Time to boil: ten to twenty minutes, if boiled in slices ; if boiled whole, longer, according to size. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. Vegetable Marrows, Boiled (another way). Peel the marrows, halve, and if very large quarter them, remove the seeds, and put them into boiling water to simmer gently until tender. Take them up with a slic'e, drain them, and serve upon toast. Send melted butter to table with them in a tureen, or, failing this, a little fresh butter. Time : young marrows, fifteen to twenty minutes ; old marrows, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, a good-sized marrow for three or four persons. Vegetable Marrows, Fried. Boil the marrows in the ordinary way till they are tender but quite firm. Let them get cold, and cut them into slices. Brush them over with egg, dip in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry till they are lightly browned. Serve very hot. The remains of dressed marrow may bo served in this way. Vegetable Marrows Marinaded and Stewed. Take three good-sized marrows; pare, seed, and quarter them, sprinkle pepper and salt over tliem, and pour upon them a quarter of a pint of vinegar and two table-spoonfuls of lucca oU. Let them lie in this marinade for half an horn-. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, cover with good brown gravy, and stew them gently until tender. Lift them up carefully with a slice, place them on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve. Time to stew the marrows, about twenty minutes. Vegetable Marrows, Mashed. Boil two good-sized vegetable marrows in water till tender {see Vegetable Marrows Boiled). Take them up, drain them, turn them into a bowl, and mash them with a wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan with a piece of melted butter the size of a walnut and a little pepper and salt. Marrows di-essed thus are excellent served piled high in the centre of a dish of cutlets. Vegetable Mullagatawny {see Mullagatawny. Vegetable). Vegetable Patties. Prepare a maccdoine of vegetables {see Vegetables, Macedoine of) ; moisten these with nicely-flavoured white sauce, and put a small quantity into readybaked patty-cases {see Patties, Preparation of). Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Vegetable Pie. Scald some yindsor beans. Cut into small neat j ieces some young carrots, tm-nips, artichoke bottoms, lettuces, mushrooms, celerj', and parsley, with green peas. Onions and a small quantity of spinach may be added if liked, but any of these may be omitted. The proportions should be regidated by taste and convenience. Partially stew the vegetables in gravy, and season with pepper and salt. Trim the edges of a dish with pastry, put in the vegetables, pour the gi'aAy over them, and place the cover on the top. Bake the pie in a moderate oven. If a maigre dish is wanted, cream, or milk slightly thickened with flour and butter, may be used instead of gravy. Vegetable Pudding, Economical and Good. Shred six ounces of good beef suet very finely. Mix with it half a ijound of the inside of baked potatoes, and add half a l ound of the red part of carrots finely scraped, two ounces of candied peel finely shred, four table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and a little salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten - ith one well-beaten egg. Tie the pudding in a cloth, plimge it into boiling water, and boil quickly tUl done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with sweet sauce, to which a little brandy may be added if liked. Time to boil the pudding, two and a half hours. Vegetable Eagoiit. Take the remains of cold dressed vegetables of various kinds. Cut thom into small pieces, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and moisten them with gravy. Put them into a buttered saucepan, and stir briskly over the fire with a wooden spoon till they are quite hot. Serve in a vegetable dish. Time, about ten minutes to heat the vegetables. Vegetable Salad, Summer (wc Summer Vegetable Salad). Vegetable Salads. The remains of dressed vegetables of almost every kind may be advantageously served as a salad. The vegetables should be sliced or minced, according to their nature, seasoned with pepper and salt, and worked lightly together with oil and vinogar, in the proportion of two table-spoonfuls of the former t? one of the latter. ' Vegetable salads should be prepared an hour or two before they are wanted, so that the vegetables may become thoroughly impregnated with the sauce. By way of variety, cold meat or fish may be introduced; and hard-boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, &c., may be used for garnish. Vegetable Soup. Take a quart of old green peas, and boil them in a gallon of soft VEG ( 1071 ) VEG water with a small bundle of mint, sweet herbs, mace, cloves, and white pepper. Boil till the peas are quite soft, then strain and pulp the 2)eas thi'ough a coarse sieve. Put the soup into a stewpan with four heads of celery, the pulped peas, a small handful of spinach, one lettuce, two leeks cut small, a quart of young peas, and a little salt. Stew gently until only two quarts of the liquid remain, and the celery has become quite tender. Add a good lump of butter rolled in flour about a quarter of an hour before the stewpan is removed from the fire. Vegetable Soup (another way). Put one onion cut in pieces into a saucepan with three ounces of butter, and brown it ; then add finely-shredded turnips, parsnips, leeks, carrots (also a white carrot, if procurable), green celery, a httle sorrel, one small potato, and a few French beans and green peas, aU of which are to be tossed and browned in the butter, with sufficient quantities of salt and pepper. Pomin a little water or stock, crush the vegetables slightly, then fill up with more water, and let the soup simmer for two hours. A little rice or pearl barley may with advantage be added to the vegetables. Care must be taken not to get the soup of too thick a consistency. Vegetable Soup, Mock. Soak a pint ?of spht peas u\ water for some hours. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with three table-spoonfuls of rice, half a pound of sliced potatoes, two onions, and three quarts of stock made fiom bones. Boil all gently together till the peas are soft. Eub the peas, &c., through a. sieve, add the pulp to the stock, and boil the soup again with a fine head of celery cut into inch pieces. Season the soup with pepper and salt, and boil it again till the celery is tender. Serve very hot. A table-spoonful of ketchup may be added if liked. Time, about four hours. Vegetable Soup (Puree). Cut four ?ounces of lean ham into dice, and put it into the bottom of a stewpan. Lay upon it a turnip, a large carrot, a stick of celery, a leek or an onion, half a pint of haricot beans, and a pint of spht peas. Place on the top of the vegetables a shce of fresh butter : about three ?ounces will be a sufficient quantity. Let the butter melt ; then stir the vegetables over the fire for ten minutes. Pour upon them a pint of stock made from bones, and add four ?ounces of Carolina rice. Let the vegetables stew tiU tender. Rub them through a sieve, and moisten occasionally to soften them. Mix with the pulp an additional quart of stock. ?Season the puree with salt and cayenne ; boil it again for a short time, skim it, and serve with fried sippets. Time, about two hours. Sufficient for five or six persons. (For another vegetable soup, see Vegetable Consomme, or Oravy Soup.) Vegetable Soup, Suramer. Take a good quantity of mixed summer vegetables, such as green peas, lettuces, joung onions, turnips and carrots, sorrel and leeks, to which may be added a small bunch of chervil and parsley, a cucumber, &c. Chop the roots into small pieces, and slice the bulbs thinly. Sup posing there to be a pint of mixed vegetables, put them into a stewpan with a sUce of fresh butter, and turn them about with a wooden spoon till they begin to soften, being careful that they aro not allowed either to brown or to burn. Pour upon them a quart of veal stock, and season with salt and cayenne and a very smaU quantity of grated nutmeg. Skim the soup, and sLmmer gently till the vegetables are all perfectly tender. Stir into it half a pint of boUing cream, and serve with the vegetables in the tureen. If cream cannot be had, a little milk and the yolk of an egg may be used instead. Boil haK a pint of milk, and pour it through a strainer into the soup. When the soup is to be served make the tureen quite hot, and throw into it the yolk of an egg. Beat this briskly with a table-spoonful of the soup out of the saucepan ; add to it, gradually, six additional spoonfuls. Pour in the remainder of the soup, which should not be quite at the point of boihng, though thoroughly hot. Serve immediately. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vegetable Soup, Summer (another way). Take a pint of green peas which have grown too old to be boiled in the ordinary way. Put them into a stewpan with a handful of the shells, a large onion sliced, a sprig of mint, and a quart of stock or water. Let them boil till tender, and rub them through a sieve. Dissolve an ounce of butter in another stewpan ; throw into this two sliced onions, a large cucimiber cut into dice, two lettuces cut small, and half a pint of freshly-shelled young peas. Pour upon the vegetables as much stock as wiU cover them, and let them boil till tender. Stir in the pulped liquor, season the soup with pepper and salt, boil aU together, and serve. If necessary, a table-spoonful of spinach or parsley-juice may be added to improve the colour of the soup. Vegetable Soup, Vermicelli for. Cut the carrots into pieces an inch long, and pare these round and round in thin ribands till the yellow part is reached. Cut these ribands into small strips, and the carrots will be ready for the soup. Turnips also may be pared into ribands and cut into strips, and celery may be cut into thin narrow straws. The vegetables should be boiled separately in stock or water until almost tender, and then drained and thrown into the soup. If boiled entirely in the soup, they will, in all probabihty, make it look cloudy. Vegetable Soup, Winter. Cut an onion into thin slices, and fry it in two ounces of butter until it is lightly browned. Put with it half a pound of mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, leeks, and celery cut up small, and stir all briskly over the fire with a wooden spoon for ten minutes. Add a quarter of a pound of soaked split peas, a small bunch of sweet herbs, a clove, a little salt and cayenne, and two quarts of stock. Simmer all gently together for two hours. Strain the soup, and serve with toasted sippets. Three or four ripe tomatoes peeled and sliced may, if liked, bo stewed with the soup. When a plain family soup is required, fry the vegetables, put the VEG ( 1072 ) VEG peas with them, and boil till quite tender. Rub them through a sieve or strainer, and mix a spoonful or two of oatmeal with the pulp to foi-m a liquid paste. Stir this into the boiling stock, let it boil for ten minutes, and it will be ready for use. ?VEGETABLE STRAINER. Vegetable Soup, Winter (another way). Allow haK a pint of mixed vegetables cut small to every quart of water. Fry the vegetables in butter or fat tiU they are lightly browned. Pour upon them the boiling stock, and let them simmer gently tiU tender. Rub them through a sieve, moisten the pulp with the stock, and add salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup tiU it is thoroughly hot, and serve with toasted sippets. Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, cind sweet herbs, are the vegetables best suited for vegetable winter soup. Vegetable Soup with Meat. Take cabbage lettuces, chervil, white beet-leaves, celery, leeks, sorrel, and scraped carrot a good handful of each. Chop these fine, and add cucumbers sliced, young peas or asparagus. Stew gently in gravy and a few ounces of butter till they become quite tender, then put to them the reqiiired quantity of gravy or good broth made of shank of beef or veal and mutton. Give a boil, and serve up hot. Vegetable Stock. If vegetable stock be required for a soup maigre, proceed as follows : Cut into small pieces a large caiTot, an onion, two lettuces, about a dozen of the outer sticks of celerj', and a parsnip. Put these into a stewpan with a slice of butter or dripping, cover the stewpan closely, and let its contents sweat till they begin to soften. Pour upon them as much boiling water as will entirely cover them, add a little salt and pepper, and let them stew softly till they are reduced to pulp. Skim and strain the liquor, and put it aside for use. Time, about four hours. Vegetables. Good vegetables, carefuUy dressed, are wholesome, easy of digestion, and tend to purify the blood. In foreign countries they are frequently served as separate dishes, and constitute a distinctive part of the dinner. Here they are generally served with the meat. Vegetables may be cooked in a vai'iety of ways, and the recipes for preparing them are given under their respective headings. As to general rules, the reader is referred to the Principles OF Cookery, page lii. In boiling vegetables, some most important points must not be forgotten, and those arc, to boil them exactly the proper time, to take them out of the water the moment they ai-e sufSciently cooked, to drain them, and keep them hot. If underdone, they are indigestible; if overdone, their appearance is spoilt and their flavour lost. On this account it is necessary to calculate as exactly as possible how long they wiU take and when they will bo needed, so that they may be sufficiently cooked just when they are wanted. These calculations must be regulated by the age, freshness, and size of the vegetables. Summer vegetables are in perfection only when they are freshly gathered and properly matured. There is an exception to this rule, however artichokes being improved by being kept two or three days. But it is not always that vegetables can be procured in this condition. For advice as to the best way of keeping them, sec Vegetables, Keeping of. Vegetables, Boiling of . Vegetables, after being cleansed with scrupulous care, should be put into plenty of fast-boiling water slightly salted. A table-spoonful of salt will be sufficient for half a gallon of water. They should be kept boiling until done enough, and if green should be in an open saucepan. Old potatoes and old Jerusalem artichokes should be i)ut into cold water; young potatoes and young Jerusalem artichokes into boiling water. Dried beans and peas should be put into cold water, and soaked before being boiled. Vegetables should be taken up as soon as they are sufficiently cooked. If underdone, they will be unpalatable and unwholesome ; if overdone, they will be untidy and flavourless. Vegetables, Cooking of. Few persons know how to cook vegetables. The rule is simple, and should never be forgotten. Every kind of vegetable intended to be served whole should, when put to boil, be placed at once in boiling water; and this applies especially to potatoes and vegetables from which the outer covering has been removed. Now it often happens that potatoes, &c., are, to save time, placed in cold water, and left to boil gradually. It is just this which allows the nutritious matter to escape, and renders a meal from vegetables unsatisfying. When, on the contrary, the water boils from the moment that the vegetable is immersed in it, the albumen is partially coagulated near the surface, and serves to retain the virtue of the vegetable. The reverse is of course the rule for making soup, or any dish from which the water will not be drained. By placing the vegetables in cold water, the albumen is slowly dissolved, and actually mixes with the water a process most necessary for the production of nutritious soup. Vegetables, Dried, for Julienne and Clear Soups. As vegetables for soups are rather troublesome to cut, especially for those unaccustomed to the work, and as fresh choice vegetables are not always to be had, the cook will find it both convenient and economical to have at hand a small quantity of dried vegetables, which may be bought at various foreign warehouses. These vegetables ai-e hght in weight, and in appearance something like chips. They need only to be soaked in cold water for tliree-quarters of an hour, then put into a saucepan over the fire, still in cold water slightly salted, and boiled hke fresh vegetables. . Tlie clear soup should then be poured over them, and the whole boiled VEG ( 1073 ) VEG together for a quarter of an hour. They will have the flavour and appeai'ance of freslx turned vegetables. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a table-spoonful of dried vegetables for a quart of soup. Vegetables, Eggs Poached for. Put into a saucepan or kettle about a hand's depth of water ; as soon as it boils, take some new-laid, or at least very fresh, eggs, and break them one after the other into the boiling water in such a manner that they shall stand close together. When the white is tolerably well set, take them quickly out of the water with a spoon, and lay them in cold water. These eggs must not, however, be boiled hard ; also, befoi-e taking them out of the saucepan, they may be flavoured with vinegar, which to many will render them very agreeable. With old eggs the whites run together, and the result is not so good; also care must be taken to keep the eggs from becoming attached to the bottom of the saucepan by means of a spoon. The eggs are left in the cold water till required for use, when they are trimmed and cut roimd for the table. Vegetables, Fresh, Treatment of. Those who value fresh vegetables and sweet salads will never have them washed in the garden. Neither the one nor the other should be washed (says a writer in the Gardener s Chronicle) until they are just about to be cooked or eaten. Even potatoes lose flavour quickly after being washed ; so do carrots and turnips ; whilst water will very speedily become tainted in summer in contact with cauliflowers and cabbages, and thus destroy their freshness and flavour. The case is still worse with salads. If washed at all, it should be only just before they are dressed, and they should be dried and dressed immediately. Nothing ruins the flavour of vegetables, and renders good salads uneatable, sooner than water hanging about them. If lettuces are quite clean, they make the best salad unwashed ; but if washed, the operation should be done quickly, the water instantly shaken out, and the leaves dried with a clean cloth. The best practice is simply to remove all superfluous earth by scraping or rubbing, and all rough tops or leaves by cutting. Enough tender leaves may still be left on cauliflowers and broccoli to overlap the flowers. Salad should be sent in from the garden with most of the outside leaves and main root on. The tender leaves are easily tainted and injured by exposure, and if the chief root is cut off shai-p, much of the juice oozes out of the wound. Where vegetables and salads have to be bought from a greengrocer the conditions are altogether different. Not only washing, but soaking often becomes necessary' to restore something Uke their pristine crispncss. Vegetables, Fried, Marinade of. Slice two onions and a carrot, and put them, with a small bunch of savoury herbs, half a blade of mace, and a slice of butter, into a stewpan. Cover closely, and steam them, shaking the pan occasionally, till the onions turn yellow. Dredge a Httle flour upon them, and pour over them half a pint of stock and half that quantity of vinegar. Add salt and pepper if the stock is not already seasoned, strain the liquor, and it wiR be ready for use. Vegetables, Insects cleared from. Put plenty of cold water into a large pan, and add salt in the proportion of a large tablespoonful to two quarts of water. Lay the vegetables in this, stalk uppermost, and shake them occasionally. This will cause the insects, which hide between the leaves, to fall out and sink to the bottom of the pan. If liked, a small proportion of vinegar may be added to the water instead of salt, and this will answer the same purpose. Vegetables, Keeping of. When it is necessary to keep vegetables for a day or two, spread them out on a cellar floor, or keep them in a perfectly dry cool situation, but not exposed to cuirents of air. Be careful that each kind of vegetable is kept away from the other kinds, to prevent deterioration in flavour-. Examine them daily to ascertain that they are not withering. Carrots, turnips, beetroot, pai-snips, potatoes, and beans keep best in dry sand or earth in a cellar. The mould which hangs about them should be left upen them, and if any sprouts appear, they should be carefully removed. Cabbages, if spread out on earth in a cool cellar, will keep good for two or three months. Celery and leeks also may be kept for two or three months in a cellar in boxes filled with earth. The stalk ends of asparagus and cucumbers, on the contrary, should be placed in about two inches of cold water. Store onions should be hung in a cool dry place. Vegetables should not be washed or placed in water until a short time before they are to be used. Vegetables, Macedoine of (for garnishing dishes). Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, green peas, asparagus peas, French beans, brussels sprouts, and cauliflowers. With VEGETABLE SCOOPS. a vegetable scoop cut the carrots and turnips into pieces a quarter of an inch square, or turn them into the shap&s of olives, filberts, &c. Divide the cauHflowers and French beans into small neat pieces. Cook the vegetables separately in plenty of water slightly salted ; when done enough drain and dry them. When the macedoine is wanted, put into a sauceimn as much good white sauce as will moisten the vegetables, toss them lightly in it, being careful not to break them. When they are quite hot, the macedoine will be ready for serving. When the sauce is made entirely without stock, this garnish becomes Vegetable lilacedoine Maigre. Vegetables, Mixed, Minced, and Stewed (second dressing). Take various kinds of cold dressed vegetables, cut them small. VEG ( 1074 ) VEG and mix them together. For a quart of vegetables chop small four moderate-sized onions. Fry them in butter or fat till they begin to turn "yellow, then stir the vegetables into them, and keep stm-ing till they are quite hot. Season the mixtui-e rather highly with white pepper, and add a little salt. When they are half done, put with them four shced tomatoes, a spoonful or two of good gravy, and a little lemon-juice or chilli vinegar. Serve very hot. Time, about twenty minutes. Vegetables, Months for Various. January. Asjjaragus (forced), Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, chervil, cresses, endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, Scotch kale, spinach, turnips; herbs. February. Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, forced), cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, seakale, tnmips ; various herbs. March. Asparagus (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, forced), cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, radishes (early), savoys, seakale, spinach, turnips, turnip-tops ; various herbs. April. Beetroot, beans (French or kidney, forced), broccoli, celerj% chervil, cucumbers (forced), lettuces (cabbage), parsnips, radishes, young onions, small salad, seakale, spinach, sprouts, tui'nip-tops ; various herbs. May. Asparagus, beans (forced), beetroot, cabbages, carrots (young), cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, lettuces, peas, potatoes (new), radishes, salads, seakale, spinach, tui-nip-tops ; various herbs. June. Artichokes, asparagus, beans (French, kidney, and Windsor), beetroot, cabbages, carrots (young), chervil, cucumbers, cauliflowers, endive, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes radishes, small salad, seakale, sorrel, spinach, tui-nips (young) ; various herbs. July. Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, white beet, beans (French, kidney, scarlet runners, or Windsor), cabbages, caiTots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, red cabbages, small salads, salsify, seakale, sorrel, spinach, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrows; various herbs. AKgnst. Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, beans, Windsor beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, shallots, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions (for keeping), peas, potatoes, radishes, red cabbages, seakale, small salads, salsify, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrows ; various herbs. September. Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbage sprouts, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, endive, shallots, lettuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions (for keeping), peas, potatoes, salads, seakale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows ; various herbs. October. Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, cucumbers (late), endive, shallots, lettuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions (for keeping), potatoes, parsnips, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows ; various herbs. November. Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, endive, leeks, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, spinach (winter), sprouts, Scotch kale; various herbs. December. Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, spinach (winter), Scotch kale, turnips. Vegetables Preserved. Tinned vegetables and fruits preserved by the heat process are well worthy of attention. Common kinds of vegetables, such as carrots, turnij s, parsnips, &c., arc put up in large quantities by the manufacturing houses, but chiefly for shipping I)uri30ses and exportation. Re-warmed they are hardly distinguishable from ordinary fresh cooked vegetables ; and considering the high price of these at the greengrocers', and the fearful waste of them in most households, those preserved in tins might often be used with advantage, to speak nothing of the convenience of having a few tins in stock. But it is to the French preservers the disciples of M. Appert of Paris, who more than fifty years ago introduced the method of preserving vegetables by heat that we look for the best productions in the higher classes. "Beans, celery, spinach, artichokes, asparagus, and especially tomatoes, are so well preserved by the best French manufacturers that they lose little or nothing of their flavour, and may be served by good cooks to the most critical company ; while for soups, entrees, stews, and also for garnishing, the tins of macedoines (mixed vegetables) are found most useful. But of all the vegetable preserves, the green peas hold the highest place. The best are preserved without any use of copper, their colour being retained, or rather restored, simply, we believe, by a little spinachjuice. The art of preserving peas has now reached so high a point of excellence, that it is almost impossible to distinguish them from the fresh gathered and fresh cooked vegetables indeed, just as new peas come in, and during the pod season, those from the tias are consumed in enormous quantities at first-class hotels and resturants in London and all continental cities, and at the tables of the wealthy classes, without anybody but those who provide them being the wiser. "Hie fraud, if such it may be called, is a very harmless one, and confers a benefit on the pea-eaters, who are ensured against a dish of hard flavourless pellets. American preservers now send us large quantities of preserved tomatoes a vegetable (perhaps we should almost say ' fruit ') daily found in some form or other on everj' dinner-table across the Atlantic, but strangely neglected among ourselves. They are perhaps somewhat inferior in flavour to those produced in the South of France, but thoucheapness would recommend them. From America also we get tins of ' green com,' and Indian maize, cooked in its milky state before VEG ( 1075 ) VEG it 13 ripe a still more indispensable article on American dinner-tables. Green Lima beans are another preserved vegetable sent from America, retailed in one pound tins at about a shilling, and very excellent they are, but, like the ' green corn,' seldom experimented upon by the English public, being chiefly used by Auaerican residents in this country. No small success has attended the preservation in tins of fruit. The Americans send us yearly hundreds and thousands of tons of the various products of their gardens and orchards. In many parts of America California, for instance, which seems likely to become 'the garden of the world' fruit is a mere drug in the market, the supply of peaches, apricots, and pine-apples, to say nothing of what we consider more common fruits, being almost unlimited. They are now seen in most of the shops which deal in such articles, and have obtained that degree of i ublic favour to which their excellence and cheapness entitle them. The Australian colonies are also fast developing their powers of fruit production ; and both the quality and cheapness of their preserves of various kinds which have found their way into oxw markets commend them to the public." Vegetables, Preserved, by Drying. A convenient method of prepartng desiccated vegetables, as practised largely in some countries, consists in drying them for a short time, and then exposing them to a slow heat in ovens. When soaked for cooking, peas, roots, potatoes, beets, corn, and other substances swell out and show very little change in their esculent properties. A modification of this process consists in placing the substances, after being sun-dried, in paper bags, which are pasted up at the mouth, and then covered with sand, and heated till perfectly crisp, but not burned or materially altered in colour. Vegetables, Preserved, Fresh. *' The preservation of vegetables for future ?use," says Loudon, "is effected by destroying or rendering dormant the principle of life, and by warding off, as far as practicable, the progress of chemical decomposition. Hence the herbs, or roots, or fruits, of some vegetables are di'ied ; others are placed beyond the reach of the active principles of vegetation, viz., heat and moisture; and some are in addition excluded from the air, or placed in very low ten peratures. All these practices are merely imitations of what actually takes place in nature, from the -wdthered gi'assy tussock to the hedgehog's winter store, and hence the origin df 'herb, seed, fruit, and root rooms and cellars Preserving heads or leaves of vegetables is eft'ected in cellars or sheds of any temperature not lower than, nor much above, the freezing-point. Thus cabbages, endive, chicory, lettuce, &c., taken out of the ground with their main roots, in perfectly dry weather, at the end of the season, and laid in, or partially immersed in sand or dry earth, in a close shed, ceUar, or ice-cold room, will keep through the winter, and be fit for use till spring, and often till the return of the season of theii- produce in the garden. The Gei-man gardeners are expert in this practice ; and more especially in Russia, where the necessities being greater have called forth greater skill and attention." Vegetables, Spring (dressed in the German manner) . Take a handful of parsley, and the same of sorrel, lettuce, and chervil; pick and wash the vegetables, shred them finely, and put them into a saucepan with a pint and tkree-quarters of green peas. Pour over them as much good broth as will Cover them, season with pepper and salt, and simmer gently for two hours. In a separate saucepan boil three-quarters of a pound of rice in water till tender. Stir the boiled vegetables into this, season with pepper and salt, add a slice of butter, and beat the mixture to a paste. Serve on bread. Time, two hours. Vegetables, Stew of . Take two pounds of spinach ; pick it, wash it in several waters to free it from grit, and mix with it a large handful of parsley picked and chopped small, and two moderate-sized oiuons, also minced. Put the spinach, &c., into a stewpan, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and add about half a pint of nicely-flavoured stock thickened with floui- and butter. Cover the pan closely, and let its contents simmer gently till tender. Chop small, again heat it over the fire, and serve with broiled ham. Vegetables, To Make Tender. When peas, French beans, and similar vegetables are old, or when the water in which they are to be boiled is hard, a very small piece of soda may be thrown in with them, and this will serve to make them tender and of a good colour. If too much soda is put in, the taste of the vegetables will bo entirely spoilt. Vegetarianism. Under this name goes the doctrine, " That veget?s.ble substances are the solids intended by nature for the sustenance of man ; and that it is wrong against nature and against good morals for men to make use of an animal diet." This doctrine has had many speculative persons for its supporters Pythagoras, Plato, Plutarch, for example, in ancient times ; and Eousseau, Shelley, and Swedenborg, in modern. There is almost a concurrence of medical experience against vegetarianism, and in favour of the opinion that man, as regards all his powers and faculties, thrives best, and that if a difference c n be made out he also lives longest, upon a nuxed diet. It has been found in making railways that differences between workmen in respect of bodily strength and energy were cliiefiy due to a difference of diet : that, for example, a beef-eating Englishman would almost do the work of three vegetablefed Frenchmen, and that this difference of working power disappeared when the Frenchmen took to eating beef. Upon the alleged beneficent moral influence of vegetable food, it may be observed that there is no proof whatever of its reality; moreover, that since the majority of mankind live either almost or entirely upon vegetables, vegetables must bear a large share of the responsibility which may fall upon diet for the evil tendencies of man ; and that, in fact, the most cruel and the most debased of human races live entirely upon VEG ( 1076 ) VEL vegetables. To the charge of cruelty brought against the practice of killing animals for food, it has been answered, that the plan of Nature contemplates such cruelty if cruelty it be and makes it impossible to avoid it; that the microscope has shown us that even in taking a draught of water we may deprive a multitude of beings of life ; and that, on the other hand, the system of rearing cattle for the butcher since the cattle would otherwise not be reared at all really adds very largely to the sum of happy animal existence. It is not disputed that there is a liability to disease from the use of unwholesome meat; but then vegetables as well as animals are subject to disease ; and the reasoning which would drive us from the use of animal food because it is diseased would really cut us off from food altogether. Chambers. The following remarks on this subject are from the pen of the late Dr. Lankester : "I am," he says, "an advocate for a mixed diet for man, and I would particularly draw your attention to a statement that is often made, that it is not necessary to partake of animal food at all. Persons who argue thus put forth as a iirst ground the immonihty of the act, and the impropriet}'' and wickedness of taking away life at all. This is surely an absurd assumption ; for the Greater has made a certain number of creatures that could not live upon vegetable food, and they naturally prey upon the lower animals which feed on the grass and the herbs of the field. The lion and tiger exist by prey : and it appears to me that man has a perfect right, without being charged with immorality or impropriety, to take the lives of the lower animals for his food. Then anatomical arguments are adduced against animal food. It is said that man in his structure is better adapted for vegetable than animal food. I must here again join issue, for I believe I can show from his structure that man is more adapted for a mixed diet than for either vegetable or animal food alone. Look at the jaws and teeth of a carnivorous creature a tiger, for example. The jaws are so constructed that they will only move up and down like a pair of scissors. Observe also his sharp-pointed carnivorous teeth, especially his great canine teeth. They are intended for holding and cutting up li\'ing food. Now look at the jaws of a horse. His lower jaw is quite movable from sid+ to side. Instead of pointed teeth they are flat, and every arrangement is made for grinding, not cutting, the food ; and this is the character of the mouth of a herbivorous animal. If, however, we take the skull of a man, we find he has certain teeth canine teeth which, like those of lions and tigers, have the power of cutting, but he has also flat teeth, and the power of moving his lower jaw laterally, and can bring these flat teeth across each other for the purpose of grinding his food ; so that you see he is evidently provided with instruments to enable him to prepare for his digestion both vegetable and animal food. I might prolong this argument by showing you the complicated structure of the stomach of the sheep and the ox, and, comparing this with the stomach of the lion, point to the fact that the human stomach has neither the complicated stiucture of the one nor the simplicity of the other. There are many other points of structure in which man seems to stand between these two groups of animals the herbivorous on the one side, and the carnivorous on the other which would seem to indicate his adaptation for taking both kinds of food. " But whatever may be the arguments of the vegetarians, they do not practically carry out their doctrines, for they partake of considerable quantities of animal food. They take milk, and butter, and cheese, and eggs. A well-known authority states that he has taken a vegetarian cookery book, and calculated the quantity of milk, butter, and eggs employed in their food, and found that, if a vegetarian family lived in accordance with the rules of this book, each member would consume half an ounce more animal food a day than he did in his own family and he was no vegetarian. So that you see people are deceiving themselves who enforce such a doctrine as this. " On the other hand, there are some persons who advocate a diet of purely animal food. I had a book sent me the other day, written by a gentleman at Liverpool, who states that he has discovered that the panacea for all human evils is the taking of animal food alone ; and he takes the opportunity of stating that he is looking for some young lady of similar principles and practice who will link her fortunes with his own, and establish a family of camivorians. " There is no question that man may live on a purely vegetable diet ; but the question is as to whether that kind of diet is best for the commimity. We find in the history of man that those races who have partaken of animal food are the most vigorous, the most moral, and the most intellectual races of mankind. We find that the ancient Jews, although they had certain sanitary regulations in regard to killing and eating animals, partook largely of meat, and were amongst the most vigorous people of their day. We find in modern Europe that those nations who take the most animal food are the strongest ; and amongst ourselves it is just in proportion as we give our labourers animal food, or wages to procure it, that they are stronger and better able to do their work. It is vain for a man to expect to get through intellectual or physical labour without an abundant supply of the material of thought and of physical power, and animal food is one of the readiest moans of affording this supply." Veloute Sauce in small quantities. Cut up the remains of a roast fowl, and take one or two bacon-bones or a couple of ounces of lean ham. Butter a saucepan, put in the bones, &c., with a quarter of a pound of veal, and add a small carrot, a small onion, one or two peppercorns, and a Httlo salt and grated nutmeg. Pour over the ingredients as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently till the hquor is strong and good. Strain it, skim well, and free it entirely from fat. BoU it quickl}for a short time, thicken with a small spoonful of white thickening, let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up its grease, a,nd it will be ready for use. A spoonful of gelatine VEL ( im ) VEH may be used instead of the veal, if liked. Time, two hours to simmer the sauce. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 9d. Veloute Sauce, Maigre. Put two pounds of fish into a saucepan with a small onion, a clove, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a very small sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour upon these ingredients a large wine-glassful of sauteme or chablis, or, failing this, of fish stock. Cover the saucepan, and let its contents simmer gently for five or six minutes. Add two pints of fish stock, or water and another glassful of wine. Bod the liquor, skim it, and let it simmer until the fish is done enough. Take it up, and strain the liquor. Thicken with white roux as in the last recipe, let it throw up the grease by the side of the fire, strain it, and put it aside for use. Whiting, gurnet, and pike are the fish best suited for this purpose. The heads and bones may be advantageously used for sauce. Veloute Sauce, or White CuUis.- Butter the bottom of a stewpan, and cover it with slices of thin lean ham. Place upon it three pounds of the knuckle of veal and an old hen, if this is to be had, or the bones of a cold roast chicken. Pour over it half a pint of stock, and let it boil away till it is reduced to glaze. Draw it back before it has time to acquire any colour, pour upon it seven pints of stock, and add a small onion in which one clove has been stuck, a carrot, a little parsley, half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently, and skim frequently till the goodness is all drawn from the veal. Strain it, let it get cold, and free it from fat. Make a roux in a stewpan of equal parts of butter and flour. Before it can brown, moisten with the stock. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, and let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till it ceases to throw up grease. Skim carefully, strain through a cloth, and the sauce will be ready for use. For veloute sauce made in a large quantity, see Pkinciples OF Cookery, page xxvi. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. Velvet Breakfast Cakes, American {see American Velvet Breakfast Cakes). Velvet Cream. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water. Add a large wine-glassful of sherry, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and six ounces of lump sugar which have been well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh lemon. Stir the mixture over the fire until the sugar is entirely dissolved. Let the preparation get cold, and before it begins to stiffen mi.x with it a pint of cream. Pour it into a mould which has been soaked in cold water. Let it stand aU night in a cool place, and turn it out upon a glass dish. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufiicient for a pint and a half of cTcam. Velvet Cream, (another way). See Cream, Velvet. Velvet Cream, (another way). Prepare the velvet cream as in the last recipe. Cut four or five sponge cakes into slices, and lay these in a glass dish. If preferred, substitute three ounces of macaroons and one ounce of ratafias for the sponge cakes. Place round them a little apricot or greengage jam. A glassful of sherry may be poured over them or not. Take the cream when it is quite cold, and before it begins to stiffen, and pour it over the sweetmeat. Serve when cold and stiff. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufiicient for six or seven persons. Velvet Cream (another way). Put a pint and a quarter of milk into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, and an inch of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer till pleasantly flavoured. Put two dessert-spoonfuls of Oswego into a basin, and mix with it four well-beaten eggs. Strain the milk when it is cool into the eggs, and stir the custard over the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir it off the fire till it is almost cold, add a few drops of vanilla essence, and pour it into a glass dish over sponge cakes or ratafias soaked in sherry and covered with jam. Let it stand in a cool situation three or four hours before serving. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the milk with the flavouring. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Velvet Cream made with Gelatine. Soak three-quarters oi an ounce of gelatine in a quarter of a pint of water for half an hour. Pour upon it a quarter of a pint of sherry or raisin wine, and stir it over the fire till dissolved. If it is preferred, the gelatine may be dissolved in half a pint of -wane only, instead of wine and water. Add six ounces of loaf sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of two fresh lemons to draw out the flavour, together with a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir the mixture over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Pour the liquor into a bowl, and when it is cool mix with it gradually but thoroughly a pint of thick cream. Pour it into a mould which has been laid in cold water for some time. Serve upon a glass dish. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Venetian Biscuit for Dessert. Break four eggs, and put the whites upon a plate and the yolks into a basin. Beat the whites, and when they are fii-m add them to the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, together wifeli half a pound of flour, half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, a small glassful of brandy, and a pinch of salt. Lastly, work in half a jjound of butter melted bu not oiled, and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon till the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Pour the batter a quarter of an inch thick into a baking-dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is cold, stamp it into pieces about three inches long and of an oblong shape. Split these in halves, and insert a little jam between them. Press them closely together, and cover one half with pink icing, and the other half with white icing. Dry the icing, and the biscuits will be ready for serving. Venetian Biscuit with Chocolate Icing. Break six eggs, and beat the yolks and whites separately. Mix gradually with the yolks half a pound of powdered sugar, and beat the paste briskly for twenty minutes. Whisk the whites to a froth, and add them to the yolks, VEN ( 1078 ) VEN and, lastly, work in a quarter of a pound of flour. Butter a plain mould, sprinkle a little fine sugar into it, and pour in the batter. Bake the cake in the oven. When it is done enough turn it upon a sieve, let it get cold, and cover with chocolate icing. Let it dry in a cool oven, and it will be ready for use. The icing may bo made as follows : Break three-quarters of a jjound of best French chocolate into small pieces, and put these in a Siiucepan with a pint and a half of water and a pound of sugar. Stir the mixture till the chocolate is dissolved, strain it into a clean boiler, and stir until it registers 38 deg., or grand plume on a saccharometer. Take it off the fire, and work briskly till it thickens. When cool, it will be ready for pouring over the cake. Venetian Biscuit with lee Cream. Make a Venetian biscuit as in the last recipe. Bake it, let it cool, and scoop out the inside, leaving a wall an inch thick all round. Make a small mould of vanilla ice cream the same size as the hollow part of the biscuit. Place it on a napkin in a dish, place the biscuit crust upon it, and serve. Venetian Cake. Blanch, dry thoroughly, and pound to a smooth paste seven ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds. Whilst pounding, add a few drops of orange-flower water to keep the almonds from oiling. Mix a pound of flour with the almonds, and break into the mixture half a pound of firm cool butter. Hub four or five large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a lemon. Crush this to powder, and put -nath it additional sugar to make up the weight to half a pound. Work the ingredients to a smooth paste with the woU-beaten yolks of three large eggs or four small ones. Eoll the paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, place it on a bakingsheet, and bake in the oven till it is firm, and lightly and equally bro\vned. Take it out, let it get cold, and divide it into six or seven portions of equal size. Spread jam of different colours upon all of these but one, and lay them one upon the other, placing the one without jam upon the top. Ico the top of the cake, and ornament with coloured sugar. By way of variety, instead of cutting the cake into portions of an equal size, cut a large piece for the bottom, and the remainder gradually smaller and smaller, so that when they are placed ong ujion another a border an inch deep may be left round each. This border may be ornamented with jam of different colours. Venetian Cream. Simmer a pint of milk with four table-spoonfuls of sugar till the latter is dissolved. Pour it lukewarm upon the wellbeaten yolks of six eggs, and stir constantly over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir into it three-quarters of a pint of isinglass which has been dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water, and add a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Mix with the cream half a pound of jam or candied fruit of any kind cut small, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken. If this is not done, the sweetmeats will sink to the bottom. Time, three-quarters of an hour to make the cream, j Probable cost, 2s. lOd.' Sufficient for five or six persons. Venetian Fritters. Take three dessertspoonfuls of Carolina rice. Wash, pick, and di-y it, and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of new milk. Put with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, let it boil, and simmer gently till it is tender and has absorbed all the milk. Beat it well with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar and a pinch of salt; and when cold add a little grated lemon-rind, an ounce and a half of currants, a large apple pared, cored, and chopped small, half a teaspoonful of flour, and two well-beaten eggs. Keep the mixture in a cool place till wanted. Drop it in spoonfuls into hot fat, and fry these over a gentle fire till they are lightly browned. WTien they are firm upon one side turn them carefully upon the other. Drain them, and serve on a hot dish with powdered sugar sifted over them. Time to fry the fritters, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Venetian Sauce. Put half a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and add a tablespoonful of mushroom- juice. Stir it over the fire for ten minutes, lift it off, and let it cool a little. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, and with them a quarter of a pint of cream. Stir a little of the sauce into the mixture, and add it gradually to the rest, together with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a tea- spoonful of lemon- juice. Stir the sauce briskly over the fire for five minutes, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour it into the tui'een, stir a small lump of butter into it, and serve. Venison, There are three kinds of venison known in Great Britain ; the stag or red deer, peculiar to Ireland ; the roebuck, known only in the north of Scotland; and the fallow deer, common in England. Of these the fallow deer is much the best, and when it is ' well kept and properly dressed it is quite worthy of the high value set upon it. Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer than doe venison, which is in season from October to December. Neither should be dressed at any other time of the year. The haunch is the prime joint, though the neck and shoulder are much approved, and may be dressed in various ways. No meat requires so much care as venison in Irilling, preserving, and dressing. As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an aiiy place. If it is to be kept some time, dry ginger and pepper should be dusted over it to keep off the flies. It should be examined and carefully wiped every day, or twice a daj' in unfavourable weather, and it should be kept as long as it is possible to prcser\ e it untainted. Excepting in very mild weather, it will keep a fortnight with care. In order to ascertain its condition, run a skewer close to the bone, and from this judge of the sweetness of the venison. If it should inadvertently become musty, first wash it with lukewarm water, and afterwards VEN ( 1079 ) VEN ?with lukewarm milk and -water, and then dry it perfectly with a cloth. Venison (a la Dauhe). Take about three pounds of meat from the neck, and cut it into neat pieces. Tut the rest, bones and trimmings, into an earthen jar which has a closely-fitting lid. Throw in with these eight ounces of bacon cut up small, a finely-minced shallot, a pinch of powdered mace, a small lump of sugar, and a little salt and cayenne, and pour over all as much stock as will cover the bones, &c. Put the lid on the jar, and place it in a saucepan of boihng water. Keep the water boiling round it for two hours. Season the slices of venison with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter till they are browm. Strain the gravy, stir a glassful of port into it, and put it, with the meat, into a clean saucepan. Simmer all gently together till the venison is done enough. Put the meat on a dish, pour the gravy over and round it, and serve very hot. Send red-currant jelly to table as an accompaniment. Time to simmer the meat in the gravy, a qixarter of an hoirr. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Venison and Hare Pie. In making this pie be sure that both the venison and the hare are thoroughly well kept. Take the flesh in one piece from a neck of venison, and cut it to the length of the pie-dish ; season with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Divide the hare into pieces not larger than an egg. Take out the bones, and fill the cavities with good veal forcemeat. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good pastry. Lay tlie venison in the centre, and arrange the pieces of hare closely round it. Put forcemeat in the dish to fill up the empty spaces, and lay two or three spoonfuls of jellied gravy on the top. Place the cover on the pie, and ornament according to taste. Bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, pour into it, through a pointed strainer, a little additional gravy. This gravy may be made 38 follows : Put the bones and trimmings of the hare and venison into a saucepan with a slice of lean ham, six or eight peppercorns, two cloves, a little salt, and as much stock or water as will cover the ingredients. Simmer the liquor till it is pleasantly flavoured and so strong that it will jeUy when cold. Let it cool, clear it entirely from fat, and it will be ready for use. If preferred, the pie may be made entirely of venison. Time to bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, hare, from 3s. 6d. ; venison, very uncertain. Venison, Beef Potted in Imitation of. Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef into a deep dish, pour a pint of -wine over it, and let it lie for two days, se;isoning well with mace, pepper, salt, and a clove of garlic ; then lay it in a closely-covered pot along with the wine add another glassful if there is not enough and bake for three hours in a quick oven. "When cold, pound the meat to a paste, and pot in the usual way. Venison, Beef to Imitate {sec Beef to Imitate Venison). Venison, Boiled. In the American hunting grounds, where venison is very plentiful, it is sometimes boiled lilvc mutton, and served with mashed turnips and cauliflowers. This method of dressing it is, however, by no means to be recommended. Venison, Breast of, Stewed. Cut up the back ribs or the breast of venison into small neat pieces. Flour these, and fry them in butter with three or four sliced onions and a small quantity of bacon cut into dice. When the meat is lightly browned, drain away part of the fat, and pour over the meat a cupful of good stock and a glassful of port or claret, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, half a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a little pepper and salt. If the flavour is not objected to, a clove of garlic may be added, or the saucepan may be rubbed once or twice with a freshly-cut clove. Shake the stewpan over a gentle fire till the venison is tender. Thicken the gravy' with a little brown thickening, and let it simmer till it has thrown up its grease. Put the meat on a dish, strain and skim the gravy, and pour it round the venison. Garnish with toasted sippets. A few stewed mushrooms will be a great improvement to this dish. When venison cannot be had, well-hung four-year-old mutton may be used instead. This stew may be served in a casserole of rice or potatoes. It is an excellent way of di-essing venison which is lean and dry. Time to stew the venison, about two hours. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain, varying with the supply. Venison, Choosing of. The lean of venison should be dark and finely-grained, the fat should be thick, fii-m, clear, and white. The greater quantity of fat there is the better will be the quality of the meat. Like mutton, venison should have attained a certain age before it is killed, or it will not have acquired its true flavour ; still, it ought not to be old. The age of the venison may be Icnown from the cleft of the hoof, which is always left on : if tliis is small and smooth, the animal is young. Venison, Cold, Stewed. Take the remains of cold dressed venison ; cut the meat into neat slices, and put these aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, pour over them as much strong unseasoned stock, or, failing' this, water, as will cover them, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Let them simmer till the gravy is good. Strain it, thicken with a small himp of brown thickening, and put it by the side of the fire to throw up its grease. Skim it, and add a spoonful of ketchup, a spoonful of red-currant jelly, and a glassful of claret. Put the slices of venison into the sauce, and let them get thoroughly hot without boiling. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the gravy. Put the meat on a dish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with sliced lemon. The remains of cold dressed venison may be converted into an excellent stew soup. Time to stew the bones, about two hours. . Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Collops. Take any remains of roast venison, clear them of skin and vein, mince very finely, and mix them with a third as much of minced bacon, a beaten egg or two, VEN ( 1080 ) VEN a handful of crumbs, salt, pepper, and a little herb seasoning if liked. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, form apple-sized biills ; flatten and dip them in egg, and crumb them or dip them in warmed butter, and then fry of a nice pale brown. Venison Collops, Minced. Mince finely a pound of venison taken from the neck or loin, and season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan over the fire, stir a dessert-spoonful of flour into it, and when it is quite smooth add a large tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. A small onion chopped small, or a particle of garhc, may be stirred in also when the flavour is liked. Keep beating the paste over the fire till it is lightly browned, then stir in the minced venison, and keep tossing hghtly with a fork till it is quite hot. Moisten gradually with half a cupful of stock, and let the collops simmer for ten minutes. Ketchup, port, tarragon vinegar, lemon- juice, or basil wine may be added if liked. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain, varying with the supply. Venison Collops, Scotch. Take as much venison as may be required in slices from the neck or loin. Trim neatly, and put them aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, cover either with cold stock or water, and let them stew gently tUl the gravy becomes strong and good. Strain it, thicken with brown thickening, clear it from fat, and season with salt, cayenne, and a small pinch of grated nutmeg. Flavour with strained lemonjuice and a glassful of claret, to which may be added, if liked, a few drops of tarragon, chilli, or shallot \'inegar. Fry the collops in butter, dish them, and pour the gravy over. By way of variety, vinegar and a small lump of sugar may be stirred into the gravy in the dish, and red-currant jelly dissolved in the gravy in the tm-een. Time, about two hours to draw the gravy from the bones. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Cutlets. Broiled. Cut the cutlets an inch thick from a fine, well-hung neck of venison. Trim them neatly without depriving them of their fat. Pepper and salt them, and lay them wpon the bars of a gridiron over a clear, gentle fire. Tura them every two minutes to keep in the gravy. Serve on-- very hot dish with a small slice of butter under each. Send stewed mushrooms and baked potatoes to table with the chops. Time to broil the cutlets, from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, very uncertain. Venison Cutlets, Stewed. Take the cutlets from the neck an inch thick. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, and let them remain until they are lightly and equally browned on both sides. Pour over them as much good beef stock as wiU barely cover them, and add half a tumblerful of port or claret, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a small spoonful of brown thickening, and a little pepper and salt. Stew the cutlets gently I tiU tender, and skim and strain the greivj. ! Put the cutlets on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to stew the cutlets, twenty minutes. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Pried. Cut the meat into slices, and make gravy of the bones. Frj- it of a light brown, and keep it hot before the fire. Put butter rolled in flom- into the pan, and keep stirring it till thick and brown. Put in some finely powdered sugar, the gravy made of the bones, and some red wine let it be the thickness of cream squeeze in a lemon ; warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Omit the sugar if you choose, and send currant jeUy to table with it in a glass. Venison Fry. Cleanse the fry, and cut it into neat slices about hali an inch thick. Season these with pepper and salt, dredge flour upon them, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned and sufficiently cooked. Drain them, put them round a hot dish, place fried parsley in the centre, and send highlyseasoned brown gravy to table in a tureen. Red-currant jelly may be served as an accompaniment. Venison fry consists of the liver, heart, skirts, melt, &c. Probable cost, very uncertain. Venison, Gravy for. A strong, unflavoured gravy, seasoned with salt only, is generally served with venison. It may be made as follows : Take the trimmings of the venison, or, failing these, a pound or two of the scrag end of a neck of mutton cut into chops. Fiy these till they are brightly browned on both sides. Pour over them a quart of boiling water, and let the gravy simmer gently tiU it is reduced one-half. Skim as required, and season with salt. Let it get cold, free it entirely from fat, and serve in a tureen. The meat on the mutton bones may be potted and used as a breakfast reHsh. For sauces to serve with venison, see Venison, Sauces for. Probable cost, very uncertain. Venison, Gravy for (another way). Take the scrag end of a neck of mutton, half a Ijound of liver, the venison trimmings, and a kidney. Cut the meat into small pieces, and fry these in butter till they are slightly browned. Put them into a saucepan, pour the contents of the frying-pan over them, and add a pint and a half of water and a few peppercorns. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew its contents gently tiU the gravy is strong and good. Stir occasionally. Strain it into a bowl, and when cold entirely remove the fat. Before serving, boil it, season with salt, add a table-spoonful of port and a little sugar browning, and send the gravy to table in a tureen. Strong, unflavoured gravy is usually served ?with venison, together with venison sauce. If, however, it is preferred that the gravy should be slightly flavoured, then stew a sliced carrot, a minced shallot, a clove, and a bayleaf with the other ingredients. When the liver and kidney cannot be procured, three or four mutton chops from the loin may be used instead. The meat may afterwards be potted or made into rissoles. Time to stew the gravy, about three hours. VEN ( 1081 ) VEN Venison, Gravy for {see Gravy for Eoast Venison). Venison, Hashed. Cut any part of cold Toast venison into thin neat slices the third of an inch thick. Do not remove the fat from them. Put the bones and trimmings of the venison into a saucepan -with a sliced onion, a little pepper and salt, and as much stock or water as will cover them, and let them stew gently for two hours. Strain the gravy, thicken with a small piece of brown thickening, or, failing this, with an ounce and a half of butter rolled in flour, and clear it from grease. Pepper and flour the pieces of venison. Put them into a clean saucepan, strain over them as much of the gravy as will moisten but not quite cover them, and heat them very gently, shaking the saucepan frequently. The gravy must not boil after the venison is put to it. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. A dish of plainly-boiled French beans and a little red-currant jelly will be welcome accompaniments. If liked, a quarter of a pound of red-currant jelly and a glassful of port, or a glassful of claret and a small piece of sugar, may be added to the gravy. When a very good gravy is required, make it as follows : ? Dissolve a good slice of fresh butter in a saucepan. Put with it the bones and trimmings of the venison, any mutton, beef, or poultry bones that there may be, half a pound of liver, and a kidney. Add the red part of a small carrot scraped to pulp, a minced shallot, a clove, a bayleaf, and a little pepper and salt. Shake the saucepan over the fire till the ingredients are larown. Pour on them as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer for three hours. Strain the gravy, thicken lightly vith Lrown thickening, clear it from fat, add a wineglassful of port, and serve. Time, two to three hours to simmer the gravy ; fifteen minutes to heat the venison in the sauce. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Hashed (another way). The venison should be warmed with its own gravy, or some made without seasoning, and only made hot, not quite boiled. If there is no fat left, cut some slices of mutton fat ; set it on the fire with a little port wine and sugar, simmer till almost dry, then put it to the hash, and it will eat as well as the fat of venison. Venison, Hashed (another way). & ; Game, Hashed (Venison). Venison, Haunch of. Take a wellhung haunch of venison weighing from eighteen to twenty-five pounds. If it weigh less it will not be fully-flavoured. Be sure that it is in good condition. To ensure this it should be hung, as soon as it is brought in, in a cool, airy situation. The kernel of the fat should be at once removed, the part from which it is taken wiped diy, and it, as well as the entire haunch, should be dusted with pepper and powdered ginger. The haunch should be examined twice a daj', and if any moisture appears it should bo wiped with a dry cloth ; and the meat should be kept as long as it can be preserved sweet and untainted. In order to ascertaiu whether or not 74 it is ready for dressing, run a skewer into the flesh close to the bone, and from this judge of the state of the meat. When it is to be roasted, saw oif the shank bone, remove the sinews, scrape away the dark dry skin from the skirt, and also the dried sm-face of the under part. Wipe the haunch thoroughly with damp cloths which have been wrung out of lukewarm water, then dry it perfectly. It should be remembered that the more fat there is on the joint the better it will be, and that in roasting the main object is to preserve the fat. Therefore, first cover the haunch with a large sheet of well-greased, thick, white cartridge paper, then with a stiff -paste of flour and water rolled out to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and tie securely over this with string or tape two additional sheets of greased paper. Put the haunch down to a clear, sound fire, quite near at first, to harden the paste. Draw it back after a minute or two, and bring it gradually nearer. Baste the venison the moment it is put down to prevent the outer paper and the string from burning, and continue to baste frequently and liberally tiU done enough. Half an hour before it is done remove the paper and the paste from the meat, and a few minutes after take away the last paper. Sprinkle a little salt over the meat, dredge the surface lightly with flour, and then baste with butter dissolved in a sjDoon. Pour the fat from the dripping-tin, keeping back any brown gxavy there may be. Add half a tea-cupful of boiling water to this gravy, pour it into a saucepan, and skim off the fat. Boil it, and add a little salt to it. Put the haunch on a very hot dish, and pour the boiling gravy through a strainer upon it. Pin a friU of white paper round the knuckle bone. Send venison gravy (see Venison, Gravy for) and venison sauce to table in tureens, and let red-currant jelly be served on a separate dish. The gravy should be prepared the day before it is wanted, to ensure its being free from fat. French beans plainly boiled are a suitable accompaniment ? to haunch of venison. Venison fat freezes so quickly that especial care should be taken that the plates are very hot; indeed, hot-water plates ought to be used. Time to roast the venison, from four to five hours, or about thirteen minutes to the pound when the haunch is weighed with the paste on. Although the omission is by no means recommended, some cooks omit the flour and water paste ; then the haunch will not need to be down so long. Doe venison will be done haK an hour before buck venison. Venison is preferred underdone rather than overdone. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Sufficient for twenty persons. Venison, Haunch of (M. Tide's recipe). It was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg, to lard and then pickle it. In England it is customary to put it on a spit, then to make some paste with flour and water only, and case the venison with it, securing it with a few sheets of paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red-currant jelly made hot with a little port wine. The women cooks in England put flour over the roast just before they remove it from the spit, a custom VEN ( 1082 ) VEN which is utterly absurd. I approve of the practice of flouring roasted meat, if it be done early enough to imbibe the gravy, and get nicely browned, when it becomes very tasty. In the other case, the froth of the flom- and butter adheres to the jjalate, and has an abominable taste. I Like to remove the paper from the venison a few minutes before it is served, and glaze the venison with very good glaze; some fine salt must be spread over it before the glaze is applied. This method is better and more tasty than the other. Venison, Haunch of, To Carve. This is not a very difficult task. In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it across down to the bone in the line A n ; then turn the dish with the knuckle farthest from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as deep as you can in the direction shown by the dotted lines ; you may take out as many sUces as you please on the right and left. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. It is held by genuine epicures that some parts of the haunch are better flavoured than others, but it is doubtful whether ordinary palates wiU detect any difference. Slices of HAUNCH or VENISON, TO CARVE. venison should not be cut thick, and plenty of gravy should be given with them ; but as there is a particular sauce made for this meat with red wine and currant jelly, your guest should be asked if he pleases to have any. The fat is very apt to get cool soon, and become hard and disagreeable to the palate ; it should, therefore, always be served upon a water-dish. Br. Kitchiner. Venison, Imitation of, Potted. Rub the bottom of a deep dish three or four times with freshly-cut garlic, and pour into it half a pint of claret. Season a piece of lean beef weighing about four pounds liberally with pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Lay it in the wine, and let it remain for two days. Turn it frequently. Put it into a jar which has a closely-fitting lid, pour the wine over, cover lightly, and place it in the oven in a shallow tin filled with boiling water. Bake tUl tender, and put boihng water into the tin under it when necessary. Take the beef up, let it get cold, pound it to a smooth paste, and add further seasoning if required, together with about haK a pound of clarified butter, which is to be put in gradually whilst the meat is being pounded. Press the paste into pots, and cover with clarified butter. Time to bake the beef, one hour and a haK. Probable cost of beef, lid. per pound. Venison, Marinaded and Baked. Take a shoulder of venison, bone and flatten it, lay it in a deep dish with a pint of vinegar, half a pint of oil, a sliced onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, the grated rind of a Seville orange, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered sugar. A glassful of white wine may be added or not. Let it remain in this marinade for forty-eight hours, and tm-n it about three or four times. Take it up, cover Avith greased paper, and bake in a moderately-heated oven vmtil done enough. Servo with venison sauce. Time to bake the venison, one and three-quarters to two hours, according to size. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Melon Pickle for {see Melon Pickle). Venison, Mock ; or Mutton Dressed to Taste like Venison, Stewed. Take a loin of mutton, or even a neck of mutton, cut long in the bones, and hang it in a cool, airy situation for several days. Skin and bone it, lay it in a stewpan, pour over it a pint of stock or water, and add a large onion stuck with tem or twelve cloves, eight peppercorns, a tablespoonful of \Tnegar, and three glassfuls of port. Let it boil, skim it, put with it a small bunch of sweet herbs and a little salt, and let it simmer very gently till tender. Turn it over two or thi-ee times that it may be equally cooked. Serve with strong graAy made from the bones, and with red-currant jelly. The gravy may be made as follows: Put the trinunings and bone of the mutton into a ste-wToan with a slice of butter. Shake them over the fire till lightly browned. Pour upon them as much stock as will cover them, and let them simmer gently for an hour and a half. Strain the liquor, let it cool, free it from fat, and season with salt only, that its flavour may not overpower that of the meat. Boil it up, and ser 'e very hot. If not sufficiently coloured, a very small quantity of sugar browning may be added. Time to stew the mutton, about thi'ee hours. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Venison, Mock; or Mutton Dressed to Taste like Venison, Roasted. Take a fine loin of mutton, and hang it in a cool, airy situation for a week or more. Two days before it is to be dressed, bone it, remove the kidney fat and the skin from the upper part, and i-ub into the meat a powder made of two ounces of brown sugar, an oimce of ground black pepper, and a quarter of an oimce of allspice. Put it into an earthenware pan, pour upon it two or three wine-glassfuls of port, and cover with the skin. Turn and rub it twice a day. Sponge lightly with lukewarm water to clear it from the spice, dry it perfectly, wrap it in the skin, cover with coarse paste, and roast according to the directions already given for roasting haunch of venison. Serve -with strong unflavourcd mutton gravy and with venison sauce. Time to roast the mutton,, thirteen minutes to the pound, when weighed with the paste. Probable cost, Is. per pound. Venison, Mutton Cooked like. Take a fillet of the leg of mutton, and steep it VEN ( loss ) VEN for a day or two, according to the season, in a mixture of vinegar, onions, thyme, bay-leaves, salt, nutmeg, and pepper ; then roast the meat, and serve with sauco a la poivrade. Venison, Week of, to Roast. A neck of venison should not be separated from the shoulder till the buck is quite stiff, otherwise the appearance of both joints will bo spoilt. 8hortcn the rib bones, but do not cut through the fat ; saw off the chine bone, and remove the small bones which cover the liUet part of the neck. Roll the piece of fat from which the bones were taken over the ribs. Wrap the neck in oiled paper, then in a stiff paste of flour and water, and afterwards in greased paper again. Tie the coverings securely on with tape, and roast the neck according to the directions ab-eady given for roasting haunch of venison. When done enough, serve with the same accompaniments as the haunch. A neck of venison should properly be roasted on a cradle spit. When this is not at hand, three skewers should be put through it, and the spit should be put between them and the bones. Although it is best to cover the neck with the paste, this is oftener than not omitted, and the neck is enveloped in buttered paper only. Time to roast a neck of venison, eleven minutes to the pound. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain Venison, Oxford John of. Take some slices of equal size, and half an inch thick, from a well-kept leg, loin, or neck of venison. Season these rather highly with powdered spice, and fry in hot fat till they are brown on both sides. Put them in a stewpan, pour over them equal portions of claret and strong brown gravy, enough to cover them, and add a tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a few fried bread-crumbs. Cover the saucepan closely, and heat the sauce gently till it is close upon the point of boiling. Put the slices of venison on a dish, strain the sauce over, and serve very hot. If liked, the slices may be marinaded for an hour or two in the wine, vinegar, and spice, before being fried. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Pasty. Venison pasty is generally made of the portions of venison which do not roast very well, such as the neck, breast, and shoulders, though even the neck is more generally roasted. The pasty should properly contain venison only. When game and forcemeat are introduced, it is known no more as venison pasty but as game pie. Wash the venison in vinegar, sprinkle a little sugar upon it, and hang it in a cool airy situation for ten days, or a fortnight in favourable weather. It should not hang too long, and should be examined night and morning and dried with a cloth. WTien it is to be used, sponge it over with lukewarm water, and dry it with a soft cloth. Bone it, trim away all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square. Line ! a baking-dish entirely with good stiff pastry. I Put in the pieces of meat, fat and lean ! together. If there is not sufficient fat belong- [ ing to the venison, a thin slice of the firm fat of a loin or neck of mutton may be put in j with each piece of lean venison. Season the meat with pepper and salt only, put half a pound of butter over it, and poui- in a quarter of a pint of stock or water. Cover the dish with thick pastry, ornament the top, make an opening in the centre, and lay a sheet of letter-paper over it. Bake in a moderatelyheated oven. Whilst it is being baked, put the bones and trimmings of the venison into a stewpan with a pinch of powdered mace, a little pepper and salt, and three pints of water. Simmer the gravy till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured and reduced to less than half the quantity. Strain it, let it cool, and remove the fat. When the pie is done enough, beat the gravy with a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice and a glassful of port. Pour it into the pie, by means of a pointed strainer, through the hole in the centre, incline the dish a little to each side that the gravy may penetrate to all parts, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake the pasty, two hours to three hours and a half, according to size. If the under-crust is omitted, the pie will not need to bake so long. Unless the pastry is thick it will be burnt up before the meat is done enough. Many cooks partially stew the venison before jjutting it into the pie. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Pasty (another way). If tho meat is fresh, keep it for a fortnight or three weeks, cut it into pieces, boil it well, and make good gravy; season with pepper, salt, port wine, vinegar, and a little sugar (according to taste) ; if not fat, put in a little fat mutton. Let it get cold, and then pack it in a dish as close as you can pack it, and put it into the oven. Venison Pasty (another way). A modem pasty is made of what does not roast well, as the neck, the breast, or shoulder. The breast makes a good pasty. Cut it into little chops, trimmrng off the iDones and skin ; make some good gravy from the bones and other trimmings ; place fat and lean pieces of the meat together, or, if very lean, place thin slices from the firm fat of a leg or a neck of mutton along with each piece ; season the meat with black pepper, salt, pounded mace, and allspice ; place it handsomely in a dish, and put in the drawn gravy, a quarter of a pint of claret or port, a wine-glassful of shallot vinegar, and if liked a couple of onions very finely shred. Cover the dish with a thick crust. Before serving the pasty, if the meat is lean, more sauce, made of a little wine, gravy, mixed spice, and the juice of a lemon may be put in hot. An hour and a half in a moderate oven is quite sufficient for baking an ordinary-sized pasty; an hour will do for a smaU one. Some cooks marinade the meat in the wine and other seasonings for a night, or for some hours previous to baldng. This HO doubt imbues the venison with the flavour of tlie seasonings, but at the same time draws off the juices and hurts the natural flavour of the meat. Venison Pasty, Pastry for. Pastry for venison pasty should be good and short, but stiff. For a rich pasty, it may be made in the proportion of ten ounces of butter to one pound VEN ( 1084 ) VEN of flour, and worked to a smooth stifl: paste with two eggs and a little lukewarm water. For an ordinary pasty, rub three or four ounces of butter into a pound of flour, and work it to a smooth stiff paste with a beaten egg and a little lukewarm water. Venison Pasty, to Keep for some time. Cut the moat of a breast or shoulder of venison into pieces two inches square. Season these with pepper and salt, adding if liked a small pinch of grated nutmeg. Put them, fat and lean together, into a baking-dish, place a good slice of butter upon them, and cover the dish with a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake the jiasty in a moderately-heated oven for a couple of hours, and keep it in a cool diy place. When wanted, remove the coarse crust, line the edges and sides of the dish with good pastry, pour in a small quantity of strong gravy, cover with pastry, and bake in a good oven tiU the pastry is firm. Time to bake the pastry, about an hour. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Pickled Melons to Serve with.. Take some small melons, not fully ripe, skin, seed, and slice them, put them in an earthen jar, and pour over them as much vinegar as will cover them. Let them lie for eight or ten days. Drain them, put them into a saucepan, pour fresh vinegar upon them, and simmer gently till they are so tender that a fork will pierce them easily. Drain and dry them on a sieve. Put them into largo wide-mouthed glass bottles, pour thin syrup over to cover them entirely, and leave them in a cool place for about eight or nine days. Pour half the liquor from them, and fill the bottles with vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to cool. Cover the bottles with skin, and store the pickle for use. The ingredients for the sjTup should be in the following proportions : twelve ounces of sugar, one pint of water, three cloves. Strain the cloves from the syrup before pouring over the melons. Venison, Potted. Place the venison in a pan, pour red wine over it, cover with a pound of butter ; put a paste over the pan, and set it in the oven to bake. TVTien done enough, take the meat out of the gravy, beat it well with the butter that has risen to the top, add more if necessary, season with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Put the venison into pots, set them for a few minutes in the oven ; withdraw them, wait till they are cold, and then cover with clarified butter. Venison, Potted (another way). Rub the venison with vinegar if it is stale, and let it lie an hour. Then dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with red wine. Season with pepper, salt, and mace, and put it into an earthen pot or jar. Pour over it half a pint of red wine, and a pound of butter, and put it in the oven tiU it is quite tender. When it is done, pick it clean from the bones and skin, and beat it in a mortar with the fat and gravy. If you find it not sufficiently seasoned, add more, and keep beating till it is a fine paste. Then press it hard down into the pots, and pour clarified butter over it. The wine may be omitted if not approved. Venison Pudding. Take two pounds of venison from the neck or loin; cut the meat, fat and lean together, into neat pieces, and season these with salt and pepper. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Lift them out, and let them get cold. Line a pudding-basin with pastry half an inch thick. Put the venison into it, pour over it a quarter of a pint of the gravy, to which a wineglassful of port has been added, and cover in the usual way. Press the edges securely together that the gravy may not escape. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boUing water, flour well, and tie the pudding loosely in it. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes before turning it out. Send the remainder of the gravy to table in a tureen. Time to boil the pudding, about an hour and a half. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Hoast (a German recipe). Hang the venison for ten days or a fortnight in a cool drj place. At the end of that time wash and wipe it, then beat it well. Flay off the skin. Take bacon-strips rather more than two inches long, and lard all over the fleshy parts. Eoast or bake the meat, basting constantly; use sour cream or butter and milk for the purpose. Send to table with a sauce made by adding water to the bastings, skimming and straining, and adding pepper, salt, and lemonjuice. Venison, Saddle of. Crusted (a German recipe). The venison must be hung some time, but not long enough to be high. After washing, lay it in a broad pan to cook with cold water enough to cover it ; and in this put a small tea-cupful of vinegar, two or three carrots, onions, bay-leaves, a good bunch of sweet-herbs, including basil and a sprig of marjoram, some salt, pepper, about twenty juniper berries, as many whole pimento, and six cloves. Let it come slowly to a scalding heat. Skim and leave it to simmer two hours or more, according to size. It must be done tender. Then take it up, spread over it a beaten egg, and on this sprinkle a thick layer of bread-crumbs mixed with a table-spoonful of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and half a dozen pounded cloves. Brown bread is best for this. The coating must be a third of an inch thick or more. Skim off a little of the fat boilings, and sprinkle over the crumbs with it. Put the venison in the oven, and let it bake a nice brown. Serve good fruit sauce with it. German National Cookery. Venison, Sauce for [see Old Currant Sauce for Sucking-pig, Venison, &c.). Venison, Sauces for. In addition to the strong unflavoured gravy a recipe for making which has already been given (see Venison, Gravy for) venison is usually accompanied by either a sweet or a piquant sauce. Several recipes are here given. No. 1. Melt a little red-currant jeLLy, and send it to table VEN ( 1085 ) VEN in a tureen; or, without melting it, turn it upon a glass dish, and serve cold. No. 2. Sinmier the trimmings of the venison for half an hour in as much mutton gravy or water as will barely cover them. Strain and skim the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with a large table-spoonful of red-currant jelly, a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar, and a large wine-glassful of port or claret. Let the sauce simmer gently till it is quite hot, and then serve. No. 3. Bruise an inch of stick cinnamon, and put it, with the rind of half a lemon, into a saucepan. Add a quarter of a pint of red-currant jelly and a table-spoonful of port. Boil the sauce for five minutes, and serve. No. 4 (old-fashioned sauce). Clean two ounces of currants, and boil them for five minutes in half a piat of water. Add a glassful of port, half a tea-cupful of finely-grated breadcrumbs, an ounce of butter, and four cloves. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for ten minutes, remove the cloves, and serve. Currants washed and dried are sometimes served instead of this sauce. No. 5. Put two ounces of powdered white sugar into a stone jar with a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar. Heat the sauce till the sugar is dissolved, and serve. A glassful of claret and a pinch of cayenne may be added to this sauce if Uked. No. 6. Put a quarter of a pint of strong unflavoured mutton gravy into a saucepan, and add a large glassful of claret, and a small glassful of raspberry vinegar. Simmer the sauce till it is hot, and serve. Venison, Shallot for [see Shallot for Venison) . Venison, Shoulder of. Marinaded. Make a marinade by mixing together a pint of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of black pepper. Remove the bones from a shoulder of venison, flatten it on a table, and lay it, with the neck (from which half a pound of the meat has been cut), in the marinade. Let it lie for twelve hours. Mince the meat which was cut off with four ounces of fat bacon, and add a pinch of cayenne and a little grated nutmeg. Spread this forcemeat on the inside of the shoulder, roll and bind it tightly, and roast in the usual way. Serve with strong unflavoured gravy, and sweet or piquant sauce. Time to roast the joint, two hours to two hours and a half, according to size. Probable cost of venison, very vmcertain. Venison, Shoulder of. Roast, Be careful that the shoulder of venison is not separated from the neck till the buck is cold and stiff, otherwise the appearance of both joints will be spoilt. Let the shoulder hang in a cool airy situation as long as it can be kept untainted. Examine twice a day, and wipe away any moisture that may appear. Cover aU over with thin slices of mutton fat. It is important that this should be done, because the meat has none of its own. "Wrap it in greased paper, then in a stiff flour and water paste, and afterwards in greased paper again. Hang it before a sound clear fire, roast, and serve like a haunch, with the same accompaniments. The flour and water paste is sometimes omitted; the Blices of mutton fat should never be. Time to roast a shoulder of venison, about an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Shoulder of, Stewed. Bone the shoulder, and flatten it on a table. Season with a savoury powder made of two table-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Lay over the joint thin slices of the fat of a loin of mutton, roll tightly, and bind securely with tape. Place it in a stewpan as nearly as possible of its own size, pour over it as much stock as will cover it, let it boil, skim it, and simmer gently till tender. Turn it over when half done. Take it up, remove the tape, and lay the venison on a dish. Strain the gravj', thicken with brown thickening, season with salt and cayenne, add a glassful of wine, and serve with the meat. Time to stew the venison, three to four hours, according to size. Probable cost, very imcertain. Venison, Shoulder of, Stewed (another way). Let the meat hang as long as it will keep sweet. Take out the bone, and beat the meat with a rolling-pin ; lay some slices of mutton fat that have been soaked a few hourt in a little red port ; sprinkle a httle pepper and allspice over it in fine powder ; roll it up tight, and tie it. Set it in a stewpan that will just hold it with some mutton or beef gravy, or broth, a quarter of a pint of port wine, some pepper and allspice. Cover close, and simmer as slowly as you can for three or four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, set the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve with currant jelly. Venison Soup. Cut two pounds of the breast of venison into small pieces, and place these, with a pound of the knuckle of veal and a couple of ounces of lean ham, in a stewpan. Pour over them three quarts of cold water, and add a large onion cut small, haK a blade of mace, a few sticks of celery, and a little salt and whole pepper. Let it stew tQl the goodness is entirely drawn out of the venison. Rub it through a sieve, thicken with brown thickening, add a large glassful of jDort or madeira, boU. a quarter of an hour longer, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the soup, about three hours and a half. Probable cost of venison, very imcertain. Venison Soup (another way). Take the broken-up bones, trimmings, and remains of various kinds of game ; put them into a stewpan, pour over them three quarts of stock made from beef or mutton bones, and stew gently for two hours. Strain the soup, pick the meat from the bones, let it get cold, and pound tOl smooth with a little butter. Stir it into the strained stock, and put it back into the stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a few sticks of celery, a blade of mace pounded, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup half an hour, and skim carefully. Cut some fresh venison into neat slices, flour these, and brown them in the frying-pan. Put them into the soup, and stew them till tender but not overdone. Take out the vegetables, add a glassful of port and VEN VER a table-spoonful of red-ciirraiit jelly to the soup, and serve it with the meat in the dish. Time, about fom- hours. Venison Soup, Brown. Cut about a pound and a half of the breast of venison into small pieces, and stew them with a small piece of fresh butter for half an hour. Turn them about occasionally, and be careful that they do not bum. Mix a quart of cold water with a quarter of a pint of the blood, put the liquor into a separate stewpan, and stir till it boils. Put the stew into it, and add six or eight black peppercorns, an onion minced small, and the red part of a carrot grated : then simmer the soup gently for from one hour and a half to two hours. Strain the soup, and thicken with brown thickening. Put the meat into it again, add a glassful of wine, make it thoroughly hot, and serve. When the blood is objected to, it may be omitted, and beef or mutton stock substituted for the water. French beans cut into diamonds, and carrots and turnips cut into dice, may be served with this soup. Venison Soup, made from the Remains of Cold Roast Venison. Break up the bone into small pieces, put it into a stewpan, and cover ?w'ith cold water, or with stock, if at hand. Put with it two carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, and a little pepper and salt. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for three hours or more. Strain it, and thicken with a little brown thickening. Let it simmer again by the side of the fire till it has thrown up its grease, then skim it. Let it boil again, add a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly and a glassful of port or claret, and serve very hot. Cut some stale bread into dice, fry these in hot fat, drain them on a sieve before the fire, and send them to table with the soup. If there be any meat left on the bones, it may be cut up, and either stewed and rubbed through a sieve or pounded to a pulp and stirred into the soup. Time, foui- to five hours. Venison Steaks, Broiled. Cut the steaks an inch thick from the leg or the loin of venison. Make the gridiron hot, rub the bars with a little suet, and place the steaks upon it over a clear fire. Turn them every two minutes to preserve the gravy. Make the steak dish very hot ; put on it for each pound of venison an ounce of butter, a table-sjioonful of liquid redcurrant jelly, a table-spoonful of wine, or, as a .substitute, boiling stock or water, and a little pepper and salt. Turn the broiled steaks in the sauce once or twice, and serve very hot. By way of variety, the butter only may be put into the dish under the steaks, and stewed mushrooms may be served with the venison ; or thin shces of lemon may be laid on the steaks for the last two or three minutes that they are being broiled, and then served with them. Time, from twenty to twenty-five minutes to broil the steaks. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Steaks, Pried. Cut some steaks half an inch thick from a leg or loin of venison, season with pepper and salt, dip them in flour, and put them in the frying-pan with some hot fat. Keep them covered till they are brightly browned on one side, then take off the cover, turn them, and let them brown quickly upon the other. Be careful that they are not overdone. Pom- a wine-glassful of boiling stock or water into the pan, add a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly and a glassful of port or claret if liked; stir the sauce over the tire for a few minutes, and serve verj' hot. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Wholesomeness of. Venison is less nutritive than beef, but is more easily digested. Indeed, venison, if kept for some time, is one of the most easily digested articles of animal food, and well fitted for dyspeptics. When used by such persons, it should be plain roasted, and rather underdone ; and they should eat it without any sweet condiments, using merely table-salt. It should be kept for some time to make it tender, but not so long as to begin to decay, as is often done. Lr. Andrew. Venus's Jelly. Boil a quarter of a pound of hartshorn shavings in a quart of water till the liquor is reduced to a pint. Strain, and simmer in it the thin rind of a large lemon and of an orange. When sufficiently flavoured, pour it out, and let it get cold. Sweeten to taste, add the strained juice of the fruit, a large wine-glassful of sherry, and the whisked whites and crushed shells of two eggs. Put the liquor on the fire, stir briskly, for a minute or two, then let it simmer without being touched for ten minutes. Lift the pan gently from the fire, and let the liquor stand to settle for ten minutes. Pour it through a jeUy-bag, and strain tiU clear. Colour with a few drops of cochineal. Verder, or Milk Punch. Pub the rind of half a dozen lemons and as many oranges with lumps of sugar tiU the yellow part is taken off. Pare off very thialy what cannot be rubbed into the sugar, and soak this in a bottle of rum or brandy for two days. Be careful not to take any of the white part of the lemon, as this would make the punch bitter. Strain the spirit, put with it the juice of the lemons, which has been squeezed upon two pounds of sugar (including the Imnps upon which the lemons were rubbed), four quarts of water, and a pint of boihng-hot milk. Run the preparation through a jelly-bag, and keep it in a stone jar, closely corked, for six weeks. This beverage is not much used nowadays. Verder, or Milk Punch, quicklymade. Sweeten a small tea-cupful of hot milk, and add it, with a glassful of brandy, to a quart of lemonade. Strain through a jeUybag, and it wiU be fit for use. Verjuice. Verjuice, or the juice of green fruits, is an acid liquor expressed from crabs, sour grapes, and unripe gooseberries, and used in sauces or ragouts as a substitute for lemonjuice; indeed, for some dishes experienced cooks prefer verjuice to lemon-acid. To prepare, it from unripe grapes, gather the grapes while they are transparent, and extract the juice from them by a wine or cider press, or by pressing them in a cloth. Filter it re 1 i VEB, ( 1087 ) VER peatedly till it is clear. Bottle it, and expose it to the sun, uncorked, for six or seven days. The liquor will ferment, and the bottles must be filled up every morning. To preserve it, an ounce of salt should be added to each pint of juice, and it should be kept in well-closed bottles. Gooseberry verjuice is much used in Trance. It is sweetened and coloured, and sold as " Syrup do Groseilles." It is made just like grape verjuice. When crab-apples are made use of for tliis purpose, they must be gathered fully ripe, then piled in a heap, and left for a few days to sweat before the juice is expressed from them. All decayed apples must of course be discarded. As verjuice is very liable to undergo decomposition, the vessels in which it is to be preserved should be sulphured before it is put into them. To do this, introduce into the jars a burning match that has been dipped in melted sulphur, fill the bottles while they are full of the smoke, and cork instantly and very securely. Vermicelli. Vermicelli is a preparation of wheaten flour, of a substance similar to macaroni, the difference between them being that the latter is made in larger tubes. It is in the form of long threads, and derives its name from its worm-like appearance, as vermicelli means little worms. It is of Italian origin, and with macaroni forms the principal food of the people in Italy. It is used amongst us in soups and broths, and fer making puddings, &c. Vermicelli (a la Reine). Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water, drain it, and throw it into some rich consomme well seasoned. When done, a short time before serving thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done, which would be the case if it remained on the comer of the stove. Verm.icelli (au lait). Boil a quart of milk, and drop lightly into it six ounces of vermicelli which has been blanched in boUing water to free it from all impurities. Simmer gently, and stir frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. When tender, sweeten it and send it to table. Tivae to boU the vermicelli, fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to quality. Vermicelli Chestnuts for Dessert. Peel the brown skin from twenty fine chestnuts. Put them in a saucepan, and cover with water. When they begin to be hot, take off the second skin very carefully. Put them into a preser\ing-pan, cover with thin syrup, and simmer gently tiU tender. Take them up, and put them upon a dish. Tlirow into the sjTup two or three inches of thin lemonrind, or a small piece of stick vanilla, and boil it tiU thick and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and put the chestnuts into it again. Rub them through a hair sieve into the dish in which they are to be served, and do not let the puree be touched till it is sent to table. In appearance it will somewhat resemble vermicelli. Time to simmer the chestnuts, twenty minutes. Vermicelli, Chinese Prei aration of. " A dough is prepared out of small green peas by soaking them thoroughly in water, and grinding them between stones, adding water, and pressing them through a sieve, then subjecting the mass obtained to pressure in a strong vessel, and thus removing the water. This dough, well softened with water, is poured through a gourd vessel, usually with ten holes in it, into a vessel of boiling water ; the higher the gourd above the boiling water the longer and finer the vermicelli. On removal from the boiling water the threads are iimnediately dried." Vermicelli, Portuguese. Break lightly three oimces of vermicelli. Soak it in water for an hour, draia it, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of milk and an inch of stick vanilla, or a little lemon-rind. Let it simmer gently for an hour and a quarter. Take out the fiavouring ingredient, stir into it three additional table- spoonfuls of milk, and sweeten to taste. Simmer twenty minutes longer. Let it cool a little, then stir into it four well-beaten eggs. Beat it over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, draw it back, and add a small wine-glassful of thick cream and another of brandy. When wanted, put it into a glass dish, and keep it in a cool place till it is to be served. A few minutes before it is wanted, crush three macaroons to powder, and sprinkle the dust thus obtained over the vermicelli. Time, ioux hours. Probable cost, Is. 4d, exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vermicelli Pudding (a German recipe). Take a pint of milk, and boil it with six ounces of butter; throw in at the moment of boiling three ounces of vermicelli, and stir tQl it thickens and no longer adheres to the sides of the pan. Take the preparation off the fire, and when cool stir in two ounces of powdered sugar, an ounce of powdered almonds, including four bitter ones, the grated peel of half a lemon, a little Sluice if liked, and the yolks of six eggs ; then add the whites ?f the eggs whisked to snow. Boil the pudding briskly for an hour in a well-buttered form. Serve with a fruit or ?wine sauce. Vermicelli Pudding, Baked, Plain. - Flavour a pint and a quarter of milk with cinnamon, lemon-rind, or grated nutmeg. Strain and boil it, and drop into it gradually when boiling a quarter of a pound of vermicelli. Stir it over the fire tiU it is tender and the milk is thick. It will take about a quarter of an hour. Pour it into a bowl, and beat it well with a pinch of salt and a little powdered sugar. When nearly cold add one well-whisked egg. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the pudding, and bake in. a moderate oven. "WTien it is nicely browned upon the top it is done enough. If a richer pudding is required, an additional egg or more should be put in, together with a quarter of a pint of cream and a little brandy. Time to bake the pudding, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Vermicelli Pudding, Boiled. Put four ounces of fresh vermicelli into a saucepan VER ( 1088 ) VER with a pint and a quarter of milk. Bring it gently to the boil, and simmer it, stirring all the time, till it is tender, and the milk thick. It will take from ten to fifteen minutes. Pomit into a bowl, let it cool, sweeten it, and flavour with lemon and nutmeg. Add a pinch of salt, and stir in gradually three well-beaten eggs. Butter thickly the inside of a mould. Stick raisins here and there upon it, and pour in the vermicelli and milk very gently, so as not to disturb the raisins. Let the mould be quite fuU. Place a roimd of buttered paper on the top, tie the pudding firmly in a floured cloth, plunge it into a saucepan of fast-boiUng water, and keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Move it occasionally for the first quarter of an hour to prevent any of the ingredients from settling to the bottom. As the water boils away add more, boiling. Let the pudding stand four minutes after it is taken out of the water, and place it on a hot dish. Pour sweet sauce round it, and sei-ve. If more convenient, the pudding may be steamed instead of being boiled. Time, one hour and a quarter to boil or steam the pudding. Probable cost, lOd, SufScient for four or five persons. Vermicelli Pudding, Rich. Simmer the rind of half a lemon and half an inch of stick cinnamon in a quart of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, let it boil, and drop into it lightly and gradually four ounces of fresh vei-micelli. Stir constantly, and boil gently for twenty minutes. Turn it into a bowl, and stir into it a slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of thick cream, and sugar to sweeten it sufficiently. Beat, first separately and afterwards together, the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs. Stir them into the pudding, pour it into a thickly-buttered piedish, and bake in a gentle oven. Serve -ftath powdered sugar sifted thickly over it, and with wine sauce as an accompaniment. Instead of wine sauce, jam or fresh stewed fruit may be sent to table with it. Time to bake the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Vermicelli Pudding with Apples, Put a quart of milk into a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon-rind, bring it gently to the boil, remove the lemon-rind, and drop lightly and gradually into it four ounces of very fresh vermicelli. Simmer over a gentle fire, stirring it all the time tiU it is quite tender and very thick. Turn it into a bowl, work into it a large slice of fresh butter, and sweeten to taste. Let the pudding become almost cold, stir into it two, three, four, or five weU-beaten eggs, according to the kind of pudding required, and add a spoonful of brandy if liked. Butter a dish, turn the pudding into it, and cover the surface with good baking apples which have been pared, cored, and thinly sliced. Press them into the pudding, so that they may be covered with the batter, and bake the pudding in a moderately-heated oven tiU the fruit is tender. Time to bake the pudding, threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. or more, according to quality. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Vermicelli Soup. For eight people take a quarter of a poimd of vermicelli, which blanch in boiling water to take oif the taste of dust. Strain it, and throw it into some broth that is boiling, otherwise the vermicelli will stick together, and cannot be separated unless crumbled into a thousand pieces. Mind, the vermicelli must be boiled in broth before you mix it with any of the puree, and take care to break the vermicelli before you blanch it in the water, otherwise it will be in long pieces and impleasant to servo up. Tide. Vermicelli Soup (another way). Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from each of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the size of walnuts, and mix them together with five or six slices of lean ham. Put into the bottom of your pan about four ounces of butter, and then your meat ; to which add four blades of mace, three carrots, two parsnips, two large onions with a clove stuck on both sides of each, four or five cut heads of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, ten morels, and an anchovy. AVhen these are prepared and mixed together in the pan, cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire without any water until the gravy is drawn out of the meat. This being effected, pour it into an earthen pan, and let the meat brown ; then add to it four quarts of water. Let the whole stew gently until wasted to three pints, then strain it, and add the gravy reserved. Set it on the fire, add ten ounces of vermicelli, a head of celery cut smaU, cayenne pepper and salt, and let the whole simmer for about six minutes. Lay a French roll in the bottom of the tui-een, pour the soup upon it, strew some vermicelli on the surface, and serve up. Vermicelli Soup (another way). Break lightly four ounces of Italian vermicelli, and soak it in cold water for half an hour. Drain it, and di'op it into three pints of boiling stock. Add a spoonful of mixed mustard, half a teacupful of grated Parmesan, a lump of sugar, and a little salt. Stir frequently, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Pour into it two additional pints of stock, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Send some gi-ated Parmesan to table with the soup on a separate dish. A little sherry or marsala may be thrown into the soup if liked, and will greatly improve its flavour. Time, one hour. Vermicelli Soup, Clear. Lightly break a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, to prevent it hanging in long threads over the side of the spoon as the soup is carried to the mouth. Put it into boiling water, let it boil for five minutes, drain it, and it will be ready for the soup. If it cannot be immediately used, cool it by putting it into cold water (if it is left in a sieve to strain while hot, it will become lumpy, and will not again dissolve). When cold, drain it again, and it will be ready for use. If the vermicelli is not thus blanched before it is put into the soup, it will in all probability impart a cloudy look to the Kquor. Boil three pints of bright, clear stock ah-eady seasoned and flavoured, put in the vermicelli, simmer gently till tender, and stir it now and then VER ( 1089 ) VIC to keep it from getting into lumps. Wlien tender, serve in a tureen. Grated Parmesan cheese served on a separate dish is a great improvement to this soup. It may of course be dispensed vdth. Time to boil the vermicelli, twelve to twenty minutes, according to quality. It must not be overcooked, or it will be spoilt. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Vermicelli Soup, White. Take two or three pints of white stock seasoned with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and flavoured with a turnip, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of parsley. Put the crumb of a French roll in as much of the liquor as it will absorb, let it simmer till it is quite soft, and beat it smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir it into the soup, boil for a quarter of an hour, and add half a pint of boiling cream. Blanch two ounces of vei-micelli by boiling it in water for five minutes, drain it, put it into fresh water, and boil till it is tender. Put it into a tureen, pour the boiling soup upon it, and serve very hot. If cream is not to be had, the yolk of an egg and half a pint of milk may be used instead. Stir the boiling milk into the soup, beat the egg in the tureen, mix a little of the soup with it, and add the rest. Put in the vermicelli, and serve. Time, twelve to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Sufficient for five or seven Vermicelli Soup, White (another way). Boil a quart of nicely-flavoured stock, break lightly two ounces of vermicelli, and blanch it in boiling water for five minutes, then put it into the soup, and boil till tender. Beat the yolk of an egg with two table-spoonfuls of cream. A few minutes before it is to be served, mix a spoonful or two of the soup with the egg, add it to the rest, and let it simmer gently for a short time, but the soup must not boil after the egg is added. Put a French roll into the bottom of a tureen, pour the soup over it, and serve. A few leaves of green chervil or finely-shred parsley may, if liked, be added to the soup to improve its appearance. Time, from twelve to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Verm,icelli with Boiled Chicken. Truss a tender chicken for boiling, put it into a stewpan with two pounds of the cushion of bacon into which thi-ee or four cloves have been stuck. Add a small piece of white roux, or, failing this, half an ounce of butter mixed smoothly with flour, pour over it as much white stock as will cover it, and let all stew gently together for three-quarters of an hour. Throw into the stock two ounces of vermicelli, and boil it till tender. Take up the fowl and bacon, and place them in separate dishes. Skim the stock, and pour it with the vermicelli over the fowl. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. Vermont Biscuits. Rub six ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind of half a small fresh lemon until the yellow part has been rubbed off, then crush the sugar to powder, and mix with it five ounces of fine flour and the wellwhisked yolks of three eggs. Put the mixture into a copper saucepan, and beat it briskly over a very gentle fire until smooth and thick, something like cream, then add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Drop small portions from the end of a spoon upon M-axed baking-sheets, and then put them into a cool oven. When they are firm and lightly browned they are done enough. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Vermoute, or Wormwood Wine. Put a tea-spoonful of the extract of wormwood in a pint of light wine. (Use the wine as a tonic.) St. George, a Hungarian wine, is used in the preparation of true vermoute, but this cannot always be procured. Wormwood is a plant which poscsses intensely bitter tonic and stimulating qualities. It is frequently used in medicine. Vesuvian Macaroni. Wash a quarter of a pound of jjipe macaroni, then let it simmer in a little veal gravy until it is quite tender but unbroken. Strain off the liquid, and put the macaroni into a stewpan with two ounces of finely-grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Shake the saucepan over the fiie for five or six minutes, then put its contents into a hot dish, and strew over the top four ounces of grated Parmesan, which should have been prepared beforehand. Send good brown gravy to table in a tui-een. Serve immediately. Time, about half an hour to boil the macaroni. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Vice-Chancellor's Pudding. Boil a quarter of a pint of milk and a quarter of a pint of cream with a dessert-spoonful of sugar and a small strip of lemon-rind. If liked, milk only should be used. Strain it over a slice of the crumb of bread, and let it stand till the bread has absorbed it. Beat it lightly with a fork, and add the yolks of two eggs, the white of one, a table-spoonful of brandy, a little grated nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it. Pour the pudding into a well-buttered shape which it will quite fill, place a round of buttered paper on the top, tie it in a cloth, and boil till done enough. Let it stand for a minute or two, and turn it out. Time to boil the pudding, half an hour. . Victoria Biscuits. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it to cream ; add, gradually, half a pound of powdered white sugar, six ounces of dried flour, three ounces of pounded bitter almonds, and the rind of a lemon which has been rubbed upon sugar and crushed to powder. Moisten the mixture with a small glassful of liqueur, butter some small tins, dredge flour upon them, and bake in a tolerably brisk oven till they are lightly browned. Spread upon them thinly a little orange marmalade, dip them in glaze, and put them on a drainer in a cool oven for a few minutes till it is set. The glaze may be prepared as follows : Boil together over a quick fire half a pound of refined sugar and a quarter of a pint of water. When bubbles appear on the surface of the syrup, dip the finger and thimib in cold water, and take a little of the sugar between them. Open them instantly, and when the thread between them is strong: VIC C 1090 ) VIC and thick, take the sugar from the fire, let it cool a few minutes, and stir into it, gradually but briskly, whatever liquid flavouring is to be used. The glaze is now ready for the biscuits. Victoria Buns. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to cream ; add two ounces of powdered white sugar, an ounce and a half of ground rice, an ounce and a half of cuiTants, a small piece of candied peel thinly sliced, a ? pinch of salt, and a well-beaten egg. Beat the mixture between every addition, and add as much flour as will make the dough firm and smooth. Divide it into eight portions, roll these into balls, place them on a buttered baking-tin, and bake them immediately in a brisk oven. If left to stand they will become heavj-. Time to bake the buns, about half an horn-. Probable cost, buns, d. each. Victoria Cake. Put a pound and a quarter of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it to cream. Add six ounces of powdered sugar, six ounces of pounded sweet almonds, "with two or three bitter ones, half an ounce of cinnamon powder, half a pound of dried cherries, a quarter of a pound of candied peel finely shred, a jjound and a quarter of flour, a little salt, and four eggs. Boat the mixture quickly for a few minutes ; then add gradually, beating the batter all the time, thi-ee-quarters of a pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten, and a large wine-glassful of brandy. Dissolve an ounce and a half of fresh German yeast in a spoonful of lukewarm water ; make a hollow in the centre of the batter, pour in the yeast, and knead it thoroughly into the cake. Whip half a pint of cream to froth, and add this to the rest. Line a baking-tin with buttered paper, half fill it with the mixture, cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place till it has risen to double the size, then bake immediately in a moderately-heated oven. "Wlien the cake is lightly browned, and when a skewer pushed into it will come out clean and dry, it is done enough. If liked, this cake may be served as a j)udding, with custard sauce. Probable cost, 6s. Victoria Cake (another way). Eub the rind of two fresh lemons with sugar till the yeUow part is taken oft', crush the lumps to powder, and add as much powdered sugar as will make up the quantity to half a pound. Whisk the whites of three eggs to froth, stir in the sugar, and afterwards the beaten yolks of six eggs. Last of aU, work in gradually and very thoroughly seven ounces of dried flour. Line a tin mould with buttered paper, pour in the batter, and balce the cake in a moderatelyheated oven. When it is lightly brown, and when a skewer pushed into it will come out clean and dry, it is done enough. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Victoria Pudding. Boil a little piece of stick vanilla in a pint of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it upon six ounces of finely-grated bread-crimibs, and add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, one table-spoonful of brandy, and three well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould thickly, flour it, and ornament tastefully with dried cherries, slices of preserved citron, or stoned raisins. Pour in the pudding quite cold, put a plate upon it, and steam it over boiling water. Let it stand two or three minutes, turn it upon a hot dish, and serve with Victoria sauce, or with melted red-currant jelly poured round it. Time to steam the pudding, one horn- and a quarter. Probable cost. Is. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Victoria Pudding, Superior. Shred finely half a pound of sound beef suet free from skin and fibre, put it into a bowl, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of finelygrated bread-crumbs, six ounces of dried flour, four ounces of apples (weighed after they have been pared, cored, and chopped), four ounces of apricot jam, thi-ee oimces of finely-shred candied citron, three ounces of dried cherries, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them five well-beaten eggs, half a pint of cream or milk, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Put the mixture into a buttered mould which it will quite fiU, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Let it stand three or four minutes, tiu'n it upon a glass dish, and serve with brandy sauce. Time to boil the pudding, one horn- and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufiicient for six or seven persons. Victoria Sandwiches, SavouiTr (for breakfast, luncheon, &c.). Wash six or eight anchovies, cut oft' their heads and flns, take out the back-bones, and divide each fish in two, from the shoulder to the tail. Cut an equal number of thin slices of brown bread and butter ; put between two slices alternate layers of hardboiled eggs, mustard and cress cut small, and the fillets of the anchovies ; press the slices closely together, and with a sharp knife cut them into neat squares. Place them on a dish covered with a napkin, and garnish with parsley. If not wanted immediately, cover them with a napkin wrung out of cold water to keep them moist. Victoria Sandwiches, Sweet. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. Work in with it half a pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of dried flour, and a pinch of salt. Add these ingredients gradually, and beat the mixture weU Ibetween every addition. Whisk four large fresh eggs, stir them into the cake, and beat again for some minutes. Butter a shallow baking-tin, pour the batter into it, and bake in a weU-heated oven. Let it got cold ; spread a little good jam upon one half, place the other half upon it, press the pieces together, and sift powdered white sugar on the top. Cut the cake into long fingers with a sharp knife, pile these crosswise on a glass dish, and they will be ready for ser ang. Time to bake the cake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Suflicient for half a dozen persons. Victoria Sauce for Sweet Puddings. Beat the yolk of an egg with three tfiblespoonfuls of cream; boil a table-spoonful of sugar to a sjTup with a little water, stir into it the egg, &c., and a dessert-spoonful of cm-ac oa. Beat the sauce rapidly over the fire till it begins to thicken; it is then ready for serving. It should look like rich cream. Time, a quarter VIC ( 1091 ) VIN of an hoiir. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Victoria Soup (said to bo a favourite mth the Queen). Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice. Throw it into boiling water, and boil it quickly for ten minutes. Drain it, put it in a stewpan, and. pom- upon it three pints of good nicely-flavoured white stock. Let it simmer gently tiU quite tender. Put aside two heaped table-spoonfuls of the rice ; rub the rest through a sieve, and stir the pulp into the stock. Let it boil, and pour it upon the whole rice. Season with salt and pepper if required, and stir into it half a pint of boiling cream or mUk. Serve immediately. If liked, jjearl barley may be used instead of rice. It must, of course, be partially boiled in water to remove the impurities before it is put into the stock. Time to boil the rice, about an hour and a half. Suflicient for six or seven persons. Vienna Cake (a German recipe). Make four or five white paper plates by stretching the paper over any round utensil a large dinner or soup-plate will d? plait up an edge an inch deep, and tack it round with needle and tkread to keep it upright. Butter these papers, and lay them on baking-tins. Spread over each a layer of "sand tourte" mixture not thicker than a thin pancake. The sand tourte mixture is made thus : Stir haK a pound of butter to a cream, then add the yolks of twelve eggs and half a lemon-peel grated. Add by degrees half a pound of sifted sugar, quarter of a pound of fine flour, and the same of potato flour. When these ingredients are well mixed, add the egg-whites whipped to a snow. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven a nice yellow ; do not let them tinge brown. When cold cut away the paper round, turn the cakes over, and peel off the bottom paper without breaking them. Lay one cake over the other, with different coloured preserves and marmalades between, till all are piled up. Dissolve powdered sugar ?with a little lemon-juice, spread it thickly over the top and sides of the cake to make a glazing. Put it into a cool oven to dry, and when cold ornament the top with preserved fruit or marmalade. German National Cookery. Vienna Yeast. The good qualities of Vienna beer and bread are celebrated all over Germany, and are due to the excellence of the yeast used in preparing them. According to Dr. Vogel, the formula for preparing this substance is as follows : Previously malted barley, maize and rj e, are ground up, and mixed ; next put into water at a temperature of 150 deg. to 170 deg. Fahr. ; after a few hours the saccharine liqxiid is decanted from the dregs, and the clear liquid brought into a state of fermentation by the aid of some yeast. The fermentation becomes very strong, and, by the force of the carbonic acid which is evolved, the yeast globules are carried to the surface of the liquid, and there form a thick scum, which is to be removed by a skimmer, placed on cloth filters, drained, washed with a little distilled water, and next pressed into any desired shape by means of hydraulic pressure, and covered with a strong and stoutly-woven canvas. This kind of yeast keeps from eight to foui-teen days, according to the season, and is, both for bakers and brewers, very superior to that ordinarily used. Viennese Biscuits for Dessert. Beat five eggs for fully a quarter of an hour with half a pound of powdered white sugar. Add gradually half a pound of flour, and beat the mixture again tiU it is light and smooth. Have ready some baking-sheets buttered and floured for the purpose. Put the batter into a biscuit-forcer, and gently press it out upon the baldng-shoets in shapes broad at the ends and narrow in the middle. Dredge powdered white sugar on the surface, and bake the biscuits in a brisk oven. When they are lightly browned they are done enough. Time to bake the biscuits, about eight minutes. Probable cost, Is. for this quantity. Vinaigrette of Cold Meat. Take any kind of cold dressed meat, cut it into neat slices, and put it upon a dish -svith cold potatoes cut into slices, -hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and slices of beetroot. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, pour upon it oU and vinegar, in the proportion of thi'ce tablespoonfuls of oil to two of vinegar, and toss it lightly together with a fork. Sliced cucumber, chopped parsley, and finely-minced onion may be added if liked, and a few drops of tarragon or chilli vinegar may be mixed with the ordinary vinegar. Sometimes the various ingredients are sent to table prettily arranged iu rings round a dish, with the colours contrasting, and they are mixed with the salad dressing at the moment of serving. A vinaigrette of cold boiled beef is excellent. Vinaigrette, Sauce a la. This is a sauce much used in Paris for cold viands. Sauce a la vinaigrette is composed of salad oil, vinegar, finely-chopped parsley, and shallots, onions, or chives, with pepper and salt to taste. For those who have no objection to oil this sauce is infinitely superior to mere vinegar, pepper, and salt. It is suitable for every kind of cold meat, and especially for cold calf's head ; and is admirable with cold sabnon, turbot, or indeed any sort of cold fish. Hard-boiled eggs also eat extremely well with sauce a la vinaigrette ; so do many kinds of cold vegetables, and especially asparagus ; in fact, this is quite as often eaten cold as hot in Paris, and always a la -vinaigrette. Cold artichokes are also very largely consumed with this sauce. When used with cold meat, and particularly -with calf's head, the addition of a few capers to the sauce is a great improvement ; and with cold roast meat a gherkin cut up fine is excellent. As this is a sauce produced almost entirely out of the cruet-stand, its suits -well with our English habits. You rub up the salt and pepper with a little vinegar, then add as much oU as you please, with chopped parsley, shallot, gherkins, or capers, according to convenience or taste. Food Journal. Vine Leaves, Wine from. Gather the leaves when young, weigh them, wash them, and drain them. As the stems are full of flavour, they must on no account be picked VIN ( 1092 ) VIN from the leaves. Place them in a large tub, and pour upon them boiling water in the proportion of two gallons of water to ten pounds of leaves. Let them infuse for twenty-four hours. Drain them, and press the leaves strongly to extract all the juice from them. Pour an additional gallon of water upon them, and again press them. Dissolve in the mixed liquor sugar and tartar, allowing seven pounds of sugar and one ounce of tartar for every ten pounds of leaves. Cover the tub with a blanket, place a board upon that, and leave the liquor in a warm situation for some hours. Draw it off into the small cask in which it is to ferment, and each day add a little of the superfluous juice, so as to keep the liquor near the bung-hole. When the fermentation ceases, which will be when the hissing sound grows less, drive in the bung, and bore a hole by its side for the vent-peg. This peg may be loosened a little every two days for ten days, to keep the cask from bursting. Keep the wine in a cool cellar till December. Rack it into a fresh cask, and bottle during March. The leaves of vines from which no fruit is expected may be utilised in this way. Vinegar. Vinegar is an acid liquid, obtained by fermentation, and, when either plain or flavouj-ed, used largely in cookery. White wine vinegar is generally considered the best. It is by no means the most wholesome. Bordeaux vinegar is perhaps to be preferred to any other for salads, sauces, and home-made pickles, and other preparations for which common vinegar is too strong in flavour. It may be obtained by order from any grocer. Vinegar may be economically made at home, either with a vinegar plant or with sugar and water {see Sugar Vinegar), or with sour wine, or even strong sour beer. All that is necessary is to provide at fii-st a small cask of good vinegar, to keep it in a place where the temperature is mild, and, as it is drawn off, to fill it, and also to keep it always filled up with spoiled or sour wine. If a cask is chosen which has not contained vinegar before, a large bottleful of boiling vinegar should be poured into it, shaken about till cold, and left in it for some hours. Vinegar may be made, too, from the pulp and husks of fruit which have been used for making wine. To make it, pour boiling water on the refuse ; let it stand some hours, and stir occasionally till the taste is completely drawn from the fruit. Strain the liquor, and add to every gallon a pound of strong coarse sugar and a tablespoonful of yeast. Let it work four or five days, put it into a vinegar cask, cover the bunghole with a piece of tile or slate, and leave it in a warm situation for ten or twelve months tiU the vinegar is made. Put it in a cool place, and if the vinegar is not clear and bright, mix a little dissolved isinglass with it. Bung it up, or bottle for use. Visiegar made from the refuse of raisin wine is excellent {see Eaisin Wine Vinegar). Vinegar was known for many ages before any other acid. It is mentioned by Moses, and indeed seems to have been common among the Israelites and other Eastern nations at a very early period. It was at first made from wine, and the formation of wine vinegar is probably as ancient as the liquor itself from which it was produced, although the improvement of the process has been the result of the observation of ages. Vinegar was much in use among the Greeks and Romans, who employed it both in their cookery as a luxury and as a medicine. It was found higMy useful in their armies ; the soldiers being always obliged to carry some, for the purpose of mixing a little with water to obtain a grateful di-ink both cooling and excellent to quench thirst. The practice is still followed in some of the warmer parts of Europe ; particularly among the Spanish peasantry, who are accustomed to mix about a gill of wine vinegar with a gallon of water and a teaspoonful of salt for a common beverage ; and with this drink alone, and bread, they frequently sustain the labours of the field, exposed to the heat of the sun in their warm climate, and are as healthy and athletic a race as any in Europe. ? Webster and Parkes. Recipes for the following vinegars will be found under their respective headings: American {see Vinegar, American) Basil {see Vinegar, Basil) Camp Cayenne Celery Chilli Cider Cider {see also Vinogar, Cider) Colourless {see Vinegar, Colourless) Cucumber Cucumber {see also Vinegar, Cucumber) Elder Flower and Tarragon Eschalot {see Shallot) Garlic Gooseberry Green Mint Harvey's, or Camp Herbs, Vinegar of Honey Horseradish Made from the Vinegar Plant (aw Vinegar, made, &c.) Malt {see Vinegar, IMalt) Mint {see also Green Mint) Mulberry Nasturtium Pepper Raisin Wine Raspberry Shallot Sugar Sugar (see also Vinegar, Sugar) Tarragon Violet {see Vinegar, Violet) Walnut Vinegar, Adxilteration of. The principal adulterations of vinegar are : dilution with water; the addition of sulphuric acid; the substitution of pyrohgneous for acetic acid; the use of burnt sugar as a colouring agent ; and occasionally the addition of acrid substances, as chillies and grains of Paradise. It is a curious fact, that although the vinegar maker obtains his malt ?vnnegar without colour, he is obliged to add burnt sugar to colour it, in order to satisfy the public taste. This is a harmless addition, but it is one of those things which illustrate a feature in the adulteration of food, and that is, that a great deal of it is done to please the public taste. Vinegar, American. Stir half a gallon of molasses into three gallons of boiling water, set it aside to cool ; then add half a pint of fresh yeast, put it into the vinegar cask, and let it stand in a warm place for twenty-four hours; then put it in the sun. The bung-hole must not be quite closed, but covered with a little linen to keep out the insects. It will be ready VIN ( 1093 ) VIN for bottling in three months. If the cask has not had vinegar in it before, it must have a little boiling vinegar poured into it, be well shaken, and then be left with the vinegar in it imtil the next day. Time, about three months to stand. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for three gallons and a half. Vinegar and Lemon Whey (Invalid Cookery.) Take a sufficient quantity of boiling milk, and pour into it as much vinegar or lemon whey as will make a small quantity quite clear, dilute with hot water to an agreeable acid, and add a lump or two of sugar. This di-ink is less heating than if made with wine, and, if only to excite perspiration, answers as well. Vinegar, Basil. FiU a wide -mouthed bottle with fresh green basil-leaves, cover them with vinegar or wine, and let them steep for ten days. If a very strong essence be required, the liquor must be strained off, and more leaves be added to it, to steep in it for another fortnight ; when this is done it must be corked down. When used, a table-spoonful wiU give to mock-t\irtle soup the basil flavour. Vinegar, Cider. Cider is the principal source of vinegar in the northern states of North America. The common family method is as follows: The vinegar barrel in summer is placed in the garret, or on the sunny side of a building, and in winter in a room where it does not freeze. The refuse cider, already sour, or the daily remnants of the family table, are added to some good vinegar in the barrel, or to the mother of vinegar, as it is called. This mother of vinegar is a white or yellowish ropy coagulum of a mucilaginous appearance which is formed in the vinegar, and acts as a ferment upon cider not yet thoroughly acidified. The fermentation is often aided by putting into it a piece of dough or lean animal muscle, or by adding molasses, or the sugar which falls spontaneously from molasses. In a few weeks the vinegar will be formed. Vinegar, Colourless. To render pickling vinegar colourless, which it should be for some sorts of pickles, stir together one gallon of the best pickling vinegar and six ounces of bone black (animal charcoal) ; let the mixture stand for two or three days, then pour off the clear vinegar. Vinegar, CuCTUnber. Take eighteen large cucumbers and six large onions ; slice them thin, and put them into a pan with twelve shallots, one head of garlic, a table-spoonful of salt, the same of ground pepper, and a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper. Add to these two quarts of good vinegar, and let it stand four days ; then strain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it, with twenty peppercorns in each bottle. Vinegar for Salads. Put into a jar two handf uls of tarragon, haK a handful of cress, the same of chervil and of the young leaves of the pimpernel, and two cloves of garlic ; fill the jar with vinegar, cover it closely, and let it infuse for eight days ; then strain and bottle it. Vinegar, Fruit. Take pears, apples, or any other juicy fruit, crush them well with a stamper, and put them in a suitable tub. For every two bushels of fiiiit add four gallons of boiling water. Stir well, and set the preparation in a warm place for a week, skimming off impurities whenever fei-mentation arises. At the end of that time strain the vinegar through strong fine linen, pressing the pulp. Put the juice in a barrel, stir in a pint of yeast, and throw in a piece of bread. Let the cask be quite full ; put the bung in loosely, and throw over it a piece of flannel. Set in a warm place for a month or six weeks, when the vinegar wiU be fit for bottling. Vinegar made with a Vinegar Plant. Boil half a pound of coarse brown sugar and half a pound of treacle in two gallons of water, stir it well, put it into a large jar, and when it is lukewarm put on it a vinegar plant. Let it stand in a warm place for two months or more, when the liquor will have turned to vinegar. Boil the vinegar, strain it, and bottle for use. Keep it in a cool place. The vinegar plant is a fungus which grows in the liquor in warmth and darkness. If left without the liquor, it will die. A plant may be purchased often at a trifling cost; market people are the most likely to sell it. It wiU form in vinegar casks, and when it is used, a young plant will grow on the old one, whicb can be applied to the same purpose. In country places it is often spoken of as the " mother.'' Vinegar made with a Vinegar Plant (another way). By means of the vinegar plant an insipid sort of vinegar is sometimes manufactured. The vinegar plant itself may be thus produced : Take a solution of quarter of a pound of sugar and half a pound of treacle in three quarts of water, simmer it, then pour it into a jar, cover it up, and keep it in a warm place for six weeks. The liquid will become vinegar, and on the top will form a scum-like fungus, which is the vinegar plant. By adding a piece of this to a similar solution, the process of conversion into vinegar will now take place in much less time. During the process the plant thickens by the formation of a new layer on its under sm-face, and by peeling off this layer and using it in a fresh operation, the plant may be propagated indefinitely. The vinegar plant is a fungus somewhat resembling those known by the name of mould. " It forms a flocculent mass or web, which is tough and crust-like, or leathery. It is found on decaying bodies, and in fluids undergoing the acetous fermentation, which it greatly promotes, and which, indeed, it very readily occasions a small piece placed in sugar and water soon changing it into vinegar. Vinegar, Malt. In Great Britain vinegar is usually made from malt. By mashing with hot water, one hundred gallons of wort are extracted in less than two hours from one boU of malt. "When the liquor has fallen to the temperature of 75* Fahr., four gallons of the barm of beer are added. After thirty-six hours it is racked off into casks, placed upright, having a false cover, pierced with holes, fixed at about a foot from their bottom. On this a considerable quantity of rape, or the refuse from the makers VIM ( 1094 ) VIN of British wine, or otherwise a quantity of lowpriced raisins, is laid, the liquor is turned into another barrel every twenty-four hours, in which time it has begun to grow waxm. Sometimes the liquor is fully fermented without the rape, which is added towards the end to communicate jlavour. Vinegar, Preserving of. The methods of preserving vinegar arc various. It is a fact generally known that vinegar, of whatever kind, wiU not keep long, but in the course of a few weeks, esf)eciaUy in the w;u'm temperature of summer, grows turbid ; its surface is then covered with a thick mucilaginous substance, during which tune the acid disappears by degrees, and at last is entirely lost ; whence the vinegar must very often be thrown away. Now, in order to avoid this spoiling of the vinegar, five methods are known. The first is to prepare the vinegar very strong and sour at first, by using more sugar or other materials. It is well known thtit such vinegar will keep for several years; but as few people prepare then- own vinegar, most persons contenting themselves ?with buying it at the shops, there are of course but few who can make use of this method. The second method is to concentrate the vinegar by freezing ; after which a hole is made in the crust of ice which covers it, through which the part that is not congealed is let out, and afterwards put into bottles. This manipulation answers well enough ; but nearly one half being lost, because that which forms the crust of ice is nothing for the most part but water, good economists dishke it. The third method is to prevent the access of air by filling the bottles, and keeping them corked. Though vinegar is kept long bj' this method, it is not much employed, probably because it is troublesome to fill up the bottle with clear inegar from another bottle every time you make use of part of its contents. The fourth method is to distil the vinegar, and thus leave behind the impurities. Distilled vinegar does-not suffer the least change, though exposed to a warm air for years ; but the expense of distiUing is often thought too much. The following method of purifying and preserving vinegar is the easiest, and answers sufficiently. Put the vinegar into a well-tinned vessel, and make it boil for a minute over a strong fire, or the vinegar may be put into bottles, and then into a kettle of water upon the fire, and boiled ; this will coagulate the glutinous and mucilaginous matter which all vinegar contains, and this may be separated by straining; after which the clear liquor should be kept in well-corked bottles. Vinegar prepared in this way keeps long without spoiling, and should be so treated when intended for pickling vegetables. Vinegar Sauce for Venison. Put half a i int of vinegar into a well-tinned and perfectly clean saucepan, together with four ounces of pounded loaf sugar; simmer the sauce gently tiU the sugar is dissolved, remove the scum as it rises, strain through a napkin, and serve in a tureen. Vinegar, Seasoned, for Indian Pickle. The quantity of vinegar required to be seasoned must be regulated by that of the pickle to be made. There should be enough to cover the pickles entirely, with a little over to make up for evaporation. To prepare the vinegar, mix an ounce of powdered turmerie and three ounces of flour of mustara smoothly with a little cold vinegar. Stir in gradually additional vinegar to make up the quantity to six pints. Cut a root of horseradish into slices, put it, with two ounces of shallots and two ounces of bruised ginger, into a vessel ; pomover them six pints of strong vinegar, and add half a pound of salt, together with an ounce of chillies, and two ounces of white pepper tied in muslin. Boil all gently together for twenty minutes, and pour the preparation, while hot, on the pickle, having fii-st poured oft" the vinegar in which they were infused. If it is wished that the pickle should quickly be made ready for use, the vinegar may be boiled again in ten days, and again poiired hot over the pickles, which will be ready when cold. Vinegar, Seasoned, for Salads. Take of shallots, tarragon, savory, and chives, three oimces each, and of balm and mint one ounce each ; diy these ingredients very carefully, and bruise them. Put them in a wide-mouthed bottle, pour upon them a gallon of vinegar, and cork the bottle securely. Put it in a warm place, leave it for two or three weeks till the vinegar is strongly flavoured, pour ofE the liquor, and press the herbs very dry with a wooden spoon. Let the vinegar stand to settle for a few hours, filter it, and i ut it into small bottles. Cork closely, and store for use. Vinegar, Strengthened. When vinegar is not sufiiciently strong, expose it in an open situation during frosty weather. When the s'orface is frozen, take the cake of ice from the top of the vinegar. If this is melted, it will be found to be water only. The vinegar, being freed from so much water, will be more acid than before, and may be frozen again and again, until it becomes of the desired strength. Vinegar, Sugar. Take a sufficient quantity of water, and to every three quarts put a pound of raw sugar. Boil for half an hour, skimming if necessarj . Set the hquor in an earthen vessel to cool; when not more than lukewarm throw in a slice of bread with yeast strewed over it thickly on both sides. Ferment for two days, then pour the liquor into a barrel which has previously been well rinsed out with %'inegar. Paste over the bung-hole a piece of brown paper, perforate this with a fork, so as to leave little air-holes, and set the barrel in a dry warm place. Vinegar, Violet (a German recipe). " Gather wood violets when they are most plentiful in spring. Put the flowers, without their stems, into bottles, shaking them down till full. Then pour in as much wine vinegar as they will take ; cork, and set them in the sun thi-ee or four weeks. Strain off the vinegar after this time. A spoonful or two of the violet vinegar in water, with or without sugar, is, in many cases, a remedy for nervous headache. It is good also for flavouring beverages and sweet dishes." VIN ( 1095 ) VOL Vinegar, Wholesomeness of. Vinegar in small quantities is a grateful and salutary stimulus to the stomach, correcting the putrescency of animal food, and the flatulency of vegetable. Its use, however, is improper in valetudinary cases, especially for gouty persons. Pickles are merely vegetable receptacles for vinegar, but the vegetable being hardened by the acid renders it somewhat difficult of digestion, and therefore vinegar in the form of pickles is not much to be recommended. We may add on this subject the remarks of Dr. Paris in his work on "Diet." "Vinegar," he says, " in small quantities, is a grateful and wholesome stimulant ; it will often check the chemical fermentation of certain substances in the stomach, and prevent vegetable matter in its raw state from inducing flatulence ; but its use requires caution, and in some morbid states of the system it is obviously improper. Fatty and gelatinous substances frequently appear to be rendered more digestible in the stomaeh by the addition of vinegar, although it is diflicult to offer either a chemical or physiological explanation of the fact. The native vegetable acids may also be occasionally substituted ; the addition of lemon-juice to rich and gelatinous soups .renders them less liable to disagree with the stomach ; and the custom of eating applesauce with pork is undoubtedly indebted for its origin to the same cause." Vinegar, "Wine, French Method of Making. The following is the French method of making vinegar. The -wine destined for vinegar is mixed in a large tun with a quantity of wine lees, and the whole being transferred into cloth sacks placed within a large iron-bound vat, the liquid m itter is forced through the sacks by superincumbent pressure. What passes through is put into large casks set upright, having a small aperture in their top. In these it is exposed to the heat of the sun in summer, or to that of a stove in winter. Fermentation supervenes in a few days. If the heat should rise too high, it is lowered by cool air and the addition of fresh wine. In the skilful regulation of the fermentative temperature chiefly consists the art of making good wine vinegar. In summer the process is generally completed in a fortnight, in winter double the time is requisite. The vinegar is then run off into barrels, which contain several chips of birchwood. In about a fortnight it is found to be clarified, and is then fit for the market. It must be kept in close casks. Vinegars, Flavoured. Vinegar may be flavoured with herbs and spices, and a good store of these vinegars will prove of great service in cookery. All that is necessary is to procure the flavouring ingredients such as celery or cress seed, chillies or capsicums, tarragon leaves, shallots, &c. to put them in bottles, cover them with good cold boiled vinegar,. and stopper them closely. In a week or two the vinegar will be sufficiently flavoured, and all that win be then necessary- is to strain it off and bottle in small bottles for use. In nine cases out of ten the flavouring ingredients may have a second, and even a third, supply of vinegar poured upon them. Tarragon and chilli vinegars are particularly useful for salads ; while a few drops of garlic or shaUot vinegar added to a pint of gravy will impart a particxilarly fine flavour. Herbs also, if boiled for a short time in vinegar, will communicate their flavour to it, and the flavour of some fruits, when imparted to vinegar, is very delicious. The acid thus made, when mixed with water and slightly sweetened, constitutes a refreshing summer beverage. Violet Tea. This is a soothing beverage for persons suffering from bronchitis and similar affections. Put a tea-spoonful of dried violets in a jar, and pour upon them half a pint of boiling water. Let them infuse for five minutes, strain the liquor, sweeten with honey, and it will be fit for use. Virginia Pudding. Butter a plain quart pudding-mould rather thickly, then stick dried cherries, fine raisins, or strips of candied peel in regular rows on the inside, place a slice of soaked bread-crumb over the fruit, and threeparts fill the inside with alternate layers of thin bread and butter and currants and grated nutmeg. Po\rr in as much custard as the bread will absorb, let the pudding soak for an hour, and steam it over boiling water, or bake in a moderate oven. Turn out before serving, and send sweet sauce to table in a tureen. Time to steam, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. Volaille, Puree de. Mince very finely the white part of a cold fowl or turkey, then pound it in a mortar, put in two or three spoonfuls of white sauce, and pass it through a sieve, adding a little salt and white pepper, and warm the whole ; it may be served up \vith the legs grilled. It should not be too thin, but can be made the proper consistence by a greater or smaller quantity of white sauce or cream. Garnish with fried bread or i aste cut into shapes. It may also be served up in a casserole or wall of rice and mashed potatoes, or with poached eggs. Ullet. Vol-au-vent. A vol-au-vent presents one of the handsomest forms in which the remains of dishes can be served. It is generally filled with a mince, or ragout, or fricassee or whatever other name may be chosen of dressed meat ; and after the vol-au-vent case is made, there is abimdant opportimity for the cook to display her skiU, either in the richness and delicacy, or in the savoury nature of its contents. A vol-au-vent can be made successfully only with the lightest puff paste. Full directions are given for making this under Paste, Puff, or FeuiUetage. It shoidd be remembered that the puff paste of which a vol-au-vent is made will be much better if it is prepared an hour or two before it is wanted, and placed in a cool situation tiU required. If the puff paste is not exceedingly light, the vol-au-vent will not rLse properly, and so will have a very bad appearance. In rolling it, care must be taken to keep it perfectly square and even at the ends, as unless this is done the pastry cannot rise evenly. The pastry for a vol-auvent ought to have six turns, and five minutes should be allowed to elapse between each turn VOL ( 1096 ) VOL After it has been turned five times, brush the pastry over with lemon-juice, and when it is doubled for the last time, fold it in such a way that, when finished, it will be the exact size of the inside of the dish in which it is to bo served, and a httle more than an inch thick. Cut it evenly all round with a knife that has been made hot in water, so as not to drag the pastry. Place a stewjjan lid, or any other shape of a suitable size, within an inch and a half of the outer edge of the pastry, and with a sharp knife make an incision a quarter of an inch deep all round the edge of the lid. Press the inner circle away from the outer one with the point of the knife to prevent them closiag again ; this inner circle, when baked, will form the cover of the vol-au-vent. Put the vol-au-vent in a well-heated oven ; in half an hour or three-quarters of an hour, if it should appear baked through, take it out of the oven, lift up the cover with the point of a knife where it has been marked, and scoop out the soft crummy centre without at aU injui-ing the walls of the case. It will be evident that if it should be injured in this way, the rich sauce of the ragout with which it is fiUcd will coze through the sides and spoil its appearance. Put it in the oven a few minutes longer to dry it, fill with the savoury mince, put the cover on, and serve on a napkin. Careful attention should be paid to the condition of the oven in which a vol-au-vent is baked : if it is not well heated, the pastry cannot possibly rise ; if the heat is too fierce, the surface will be set before the heat has penetrated through the pastry, and this also will keep it from rising. When it has risen a couple of inches, and before it acquires any colour, cover the vol-au-vent with paper to keep it from browning too quickly. If accidentally the walls of the vol-au-vent should receive anj' injury, a little piece of pastry should be stuck upon the thin place with white of egg. The appearance of the vol-au-vent will be improved if it is brushed over with egg after it has risen in the oven. Time to bake the volau-vent, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Sufiicient, three-quarters of a pound to one pound of puif paste for a good- sized volau-vent. VOL-AU-VENT MOULD. Vol-au-vent (a la Financiere). Prepare a vol-au-vent c ase according to the instructions already given, bake it, hft off the cover, and dry the inside. FiU it with a financiere ragout, ornament the top with crayfish, cockscombs, and mushrooms ; or, if preferred, simply place the cover on the top of the vol-au-vent, and serve. The ragout may be prepared as follows : Put into a stewpan equal quantities of sweetbread, forcemeat balls, and mushrooms, aU dressed, with a few sliced truflJes and cockscombs if hked. Cover with thick and rich brown sauce made of game, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Let them simmer very gently till they are heated throughout, and the ragout will be ready for the vol-auvent. Time, three minutes to heat the ragout. Vol-au-vent (a la Normande). Make a vol-au-vent case according to the instructions ali-eady given, bake it, lift off the cover, and have ready to fill it a Kagout a la Normande. Put on the lid, and serve the vol-au-vent on a dish covered with a napkin. The ragout may be prepared as follows : Fillet a large sole, put it on a buttered dish, and sprinkle upon it a tea-spoonful of very finely-minced onions which have been previously parboiled. Pour upon it as much milk or light wine as wOl barely cover it, and bake till done enough. Divide it into neat slices of uniform size, and put these in a stewpan with an equal quantity of oysters which have been plumped in their liquor, mussels which have been shaken over the fire in a stewpan till their shells opened, mushi'ooms which have been stewed in butter, and pieces of the crumb of bread about the size of a cro vn piece which have been fried in butter until they were lightly browned. Take as much veloute sauce as will cover the ingredients, put it into a saucepan, and stir in the oyster liquor, the mussel broth, and the gravy from the sole. Let it simmer tUl very thick. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a basin, mix a spoonful or two of the sauce with them, and add them to the rest. Simmer the sauce for a minute or two without allowing it to boU, and pour it over the fish. Let all heat very gently together for three or four minutes, and the ragout will be ready for the vol-au-vent. Vol-au-vent, Small. To make small vol-au-vents, prepare the pastry, and make the vol-au-vents according to the instructions already given for making a large vol-au-vent. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of half an inch. Two pastry- cutters will be needed the smaller one the size of half a crown, the larger one double the size. If these cutters are fluted, so much the better. Bake the vol-au-vents in a moderately-heated oven ; when done enough, lift off the covers, and scoop out the insides as before ; dry the pastry, and fill the cavity with any of the varieties of meat which can be prepared for the purpose. Put on the covei-s, and serve the vol-au-vents, hot or cold, on a neatlyfolded napkin. Time to bake small vol-au-vents, ten to twelve minutes. Vol-au-vent with Cream. Bake a large, or six or eight small vol-au-vents ; take oft' the covers, scoop out the insides, dry the cases, and let them become quite cold. Fill them with rich jam, or with fresh fruit stewed in a thick syrup, and place upon the top some nicely-flavoured whipped cream. Garnish the edges of the vol-au-vents with dots of brightcoloured fruit jeUy. VOL ( 1097 ) WAP Vol-au-vents. liecipes for the following vol-au-vents -will bo found under their respective headings: Croquettes Oysteii Egg Plum Fruit Sweetbread Lobster Veal. Vol-au-vents, Green Gooseberry. Prepare some small vol-au-vents in the usual way, and hake them. Take off the covers, scoop out the inside, and let them get cold. When wanted, fill them with a compote of green gooseberries. Place the covers upon them, or, if preferred, put a little whipped cream, or Devonshire cream, in their j laces ; serve on a neatly-folded napkin. The gooseberries may be prepared as follows : Top and tail a pint of green gooseberries, and put them into boiling water for two minutes, then throw them into cold water which has been mixed with a tablespoonful of vinegar (this is to restore their colour). Boil six ounces of refined sugar in half a pint of water for ten minutes, put in the gooseberries, and let them simmer gently tiU tender but unbroken. Strain them, and if necessary put the syrup back again, and let it boil a few minutes till it is very thick, then pour it over the fruit. When cold it will be ready for the vol-au-vents. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to simmer the gooseberries. Vol-au-vents, Orange. Prepare the vol-au-vents, and bake them in the usual way. Let them get cold. Pare the rind very thinly from three or four large oranges, put it into a saucepan with four ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water, and boil to a clear s}Tup. Strip the white skin from the oranges, remove the pips, and divide them into quarters. Thicken the syrup by pouring it when boUing ujjon a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot which has been mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and stirring it well. Add a little brandy and two or tlu'ce di-ops of cochineal, and pour the syrup upon the fruit. When cold it will be ready for the vol-au-vents. Vol-au-vents, Sweet (a la Parisienne). Make some small vol-au-vents, and have some good jam or stewed fruit ready to fill them. As soon as they are taken from the oven, sprinkle finely-powdered white sugar thickly on the edges, and hold a rod-hot shovel over them till the sugar melts. Fill them with the fruit, pile whipped cream on the top, and serve. Time, ten or twelve minutes to bake the volau-vents. Vol-au-vents, To Pill. A vol-au-vent is simply a case in which are served delicate and savoury ragouts of dressed meat, fish, &c. When preparing these, it is very important that the cook should make the sauces in which the meat is heated vcri thick. Unless this is done, the liquor will be in danger of oozing through the crust, and this will entirely spoil the appearance of the vol-au-vent. Also the meat should be simply heated in the sauce ; if it is allowed to boil, it will in all probability be hard and unpalatable. 75 w Wafer Biscuits. Mix an ounce and a half of finely-sifted sugar with half a pound of flour, liub in a small slice of fresh butter, and work the mixture into a stiff paste with the well-whisked white of a fresh egg and a little cream. Cover the paste, and leave it in a cool place for a short time. Divide it into smaU portions of equal size, and roll these into rounds as thin as possible, and about two and a half inches in diameter. Bake on buttered tins in a brisk oven. Time to bake the wafers, three or four minutes. Wafer Biscuits (another way) . Mix thoroughly two ounces of sifted sugar with two ounces of fine flour. Add a drop of oil of cinnamon and a drop of oil of cloves, or if preferred a little grated nutmeg, and the wellwhisked whites of two eggs. Make the mixture into a thin liquid paste. Butter some tinned baking-sheets; put on these portions of the batter four inches apart, and the size of a walnut, and with the finger spread them into rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, and almost touching each other. Bake in a brisk oven till they are lightly browned. Take them up when soft, and cither roll them upon a round piece of wood or turn them to the shape of buns. Serve with custards or ices. Time to bake the wafers, tliree or four minutes. Wafer Biscuits, Almond. Blanch, peel, and pound till smooth four ounces of .Jordan almonds. IMix with them two ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, and moisten the mixture with the white of an egg. Heat an untinned baking-sheet, and rub it over with pure white wax. Let it get cold, then place on it, four inches apart from each other, portions of the paste the size of a penny-piece. Flatten these with a knife till they almost touch one another and are about the size of the top of a tumbler. Blanch and chop two ounces of almonds, and mix them with an ounce of sugar and a tea-spoonful of white of egg. Sprinkle them on the sm-face of the wafers, and bake in a gentle oven. When sufficiently baked, roll them whilst warm round a piece of wood, and leave them till crisp. Wafer Cakes. Wafer cakes are excellent tea-cakes, and they do not take long to make, although a little practice is required to make them successfully. Beat thiee eggs quite light; wash rather less than a quarter of a pound of butter, so as to extract the salt from it, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar; add to the mixture the beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful of rose-water, and enough sifted flour to make a thin batter. Stir with a wooden spoon till the batter is perfectly smooth and so light that it vnM break when it falls against the side of the vessel. Heat the waferirons ; not too hot, however, or the batter will bum. Grease the iron with butter tied in a linen rag, the rag being twice doubled ; fill the iron with the batter, and then close it. Place it on the fire so that both sides will heat at once ; if this cannot be done, turn the iron frequently. WAP ( 1098 ) WAP If properly managed the batter will be cooked in about two minutes. Wafer Paper, to put under Cakes (a German recipe). Take fine flour, to which put as much water as will make it beat smooth. Then by degrees add as much more as will bring it to a thin paste. Rub a baking-plate with wax, beat it, wipe off the wax, hold the tin again over the fire, then pour a spoonful of the flour and water, or as much as will cover the bottom thinly, and bake it merely so that it becomes diy and white. A. von Kochhcim. Wafer Puddings. Beat an ounce of butter to cream, and mix with it a table-spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of cream, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. A little flavouring may be added if liked. Butter some patty-pans, half fill them with the batter, and cover with the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Sprinkle a little powdered white sugar upon them, and bake in a well-heated oven. AVlien done enough, tui-n them upon a hot napkin, and send jam or sweet sauce to table with them. Time to bake the puddings, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five puddings. W afers. There are many ways of making wafers, but however made, they must be baked in the same way, that is, in irons made for the purpose, and called wafer-irons. These irons should be used as follows : Heat an iron on both sides over a moderate fire. Rub it inside with a little butter, put a tea-spoonful of the wafer batter into it, close the iron upon this almost immediately, and put it on the fire. When cooked upon one side, tui-n it upon the other. Cut away the superfluous paste round the edges, and roll the wafer on a stick while it is still warm. Put in another piece of batter, and repeat until all the batter is used. Keep the wafers in a tin box in a diy place till wanted. They are generally served with the sweets. Wafers, Almond. Mix thoroughly equal quantities of dry flom- and sifted sugar. "With everj'- four table-spoonfuls of this mixture that it is intended to use work in two well-beaten eggs, two oimces and a half of chopped ahnonds or pistachio nuts, a small quantity of fresh yeast, and as much cream as will make a thick batter. Let the mixture settle, and bake the wafers in the usual way. Wafers, Dutch. Put seven ounces of flour upon a pasteboard, and work it to a smooth stiff paste with three ounces of butter, the grated rind of an orange, five ovmces of powdered sugar, and one egg. Divide the paste into pieces the size of a pigeon's egg, form these to an oval shape, and bake in an oval wafer-iron. Wafers, Flemish. Rub a large lump of sugar upon the rind of half a fresh lemon till the yellow part is taken off, then crush it to powder. Put four ormces of flour into a bowl, mix with it a pinch of salt and the flavoured sugar, and add gradually a quarter of a pint of lukewami milk and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast. Work the mixture to a soft dough, cover it, and put it on the hearth to rise. Work in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter beaten to cream, the yolks of three eggs wellbeaten, and, lastly, the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Let the dough rise till it is double its original size. Bake the wafers in the usual way. Put them while hot upon a dish, and sift powdered white sugar thickly over them. Time to cook the wafers, three or four minutes. Wafers, Fruit, for Dessert. Take any kind of ripe well-flavom-ed fruit. Put it intO' an earthen jar, cover closely, and set it in a pan of boiling water. Keep the water boiUngquickly round it tiU the juice flows freely from the fruit. Strain it through a jelly-bag, and with each pint of filtered juice mix a pound of powdered white sugar and the white of an egg. Beat the mixture till it forms a stiff paste. Spread it in a thin layer upon buttered paper, and bake in a gentle oven till it is di-y enough to leave the paper. Turn it upside down, and put it again in the oven until it is perfectly dry. Stamp it in shapes, and place these between sheets of white paper in layers in a tin box. Wafers, Geneva. Beat three ounces of fresh butter to cream. Add two heaped tablespoonfuls of jiowdered sugar, two well-whisked eggs, and, very gradually, thi-ec ounces of dried flour. Beat the batter till it is smooth. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it at regular intervals a tea-spoonful of the mixture. Bake the wafers in a gentle oven. A\'Tien they are set, but still quite soft, take them out, and turn them to the shaj e of horns. Put a little piece of bread into the wide end to keep them in shape, and let them remain in the oven till crisp. When they are cold, take out the bread, and just before serA-ing the wafers fill them with jam and whipped cream. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, Is. Time, altogether, about twenty minutes. Wafers, lee. Mix together half a pound of flour and lialf a j ound of i:)Owdered sugar. Add thr(M' wcll-lieaten eggs and a few drops of essence of vanilla, and beat the mixture till it is quite smooth. Melt half a pound of fresh butter, work this into the batter, and boat it again. Add very gradually a quart of milk. Let the batter remain untouched for an hour, and bake the wafers in the usual way. Wafers with Jelly. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add half a pound of powdered sugar, two eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, half a nutmeg grated, half a tea- spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little hot water, and as much flour as will make a very thick smooth batter. Beat the mixture well. Butter a large baking-sheet, and spread the batter upon it in a layer not more than an eighth of an inch thick. Bake in a moderatelyheated oven till it is set. Cut it in halves; spread a little jelly upon one half, and lay the other half upon it. When cold, cut it into fingers with a sharp knife. Pile thesa in a glass dish, and scrs e. Time to bake the batter. WAF ( 1099 ) WAL about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the jelly, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. WaflB.es. Take a tea-cupful of fresh butter, put it into a large bowl, and beat it to cream. Add three cupfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg grated, a few drops of essence of lemon, thi-ee well-ljeaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of saleratus dissolved in a tea-spoonful of milk, and as much flour as will make a thick batter. Beat the mixture thoroughly. Heat the waffle-iron, rub it over with butter, and put into it one or two large spoonfuls of the mixture. Be careful to leave room for rising ; close it, and put it over hot coals. Let it remain for six or eight minutes, then turn it over, and leave it a few minutes longer : if on opening it the cake is nicely browned, and ?will leave the iron easilj it is done enough. Probable cost, Is. 6d. for this quantity. Waffles (another -way). Dissolve half an ounce of butter in a pint of milk ; beat two eggs in a bowl, and add to them gradually the buttered milk and as much flour as will make a stiif batter. Stir in a wine-glassful of fresh yeast and a little salt. Let the batter rise till light. Heat the waffle-irons, and bake the "waffles in the usual "way. Butter them, and if liked serve with sugar and powdered cinnamon. Waffles (another -way). Take a quart of milk, five eggs, a pound and a quarter of flour, half a pound of butter, and a spoonful of yeast. When the waffles are baked, sift pounded SMgar and powdered cassia over them. (a Danish recipe) . Take one pound of fresh butter, and beat it till it creams. Add the yolks of six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, one pound of flour, a quart of wai-m milk, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to snow. Butter the waffle-iron each time before filling it, and heat it before using. \Yhen baked strew sifted sugar over the waffles. This quantity will make twenty-four wdffles. Waffles (a German recipe). Mix one pound and a half of flour -with the same quantity of clarified butter, add twelve eggs one by one, then a little grated nutmeg, a few grains of salt, two handfuls of poimded almonds with a few bitter ones among them, four or five spoonfuls of yeast, nearly a pint of milk, and lastly the wliites of the eggs beaten to snow. Mix and beat well together, then leave the mixture for two hours before proceeding further. Have ready the waffle-iron, heat it in the fire, and rub it over with butter; pour into it a ladleful of the batter, and bake of a fine yello"R The iron must be buttered each time before any batter is poured in. Strew pounded sugar and cinnamon over the waffles after they are done. Waffles (another German recipe). Mix together three-quarters of a poimd of flour, seven eggs, a pint of milk, three good spoonfuls of yeast, a giU. of brandy, and half a pound of butter beaten to cream. Beat the butter and eggs first together, then add the flour, and, when smooth, the other ingredients ; let this stand in a warm place for an hour to rise. Butter the waffle-iron before you pour in the batter, and bake of a light j-ellow colour. Strew with pounded cinnamon and sugar before serving. A. von Kochheim. Waffles made with Yeast. Beat three fresh eggs to a light froth ; mix with them a pint of lukewarm milk and a large table-spoonful of fresh yeast, and add half a nutmeg grated, a piach of salt, an ounce of butter, and as much flour as "will make a light batter. Put this in a warm place, and let it rise for two or three houi-s. Bake the cake in waffle-u'ons in the usual way {see Waffles) . Waffles made without Yeast or Soda. Take a pint and a quarter of flour, and as much additional flour as will go into a wine-glass ; mix "with it half a tea-spoonful of salt. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a pint of hot milk, and let the milk cool. Beat the yolks of three eggs in a bowl, and add to them the milk and the flour alternately. Whisk the whites of the eggs separately to a firm froth, and stir them lightly into the batter. Bake the waffles immediately after the whites are put in, and do not beat the batter after the whites are added. Waffles, Rice. BoU. half a pint of rice till soft ; put it into a bowl, and add very gradually thi-ee-quarters of a poimd of flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pint and a quarter of milk, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly. "Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stifi froth, add them to the batter, and beat it again. Take a small quantity of this mixture in a cup, and pour it backwards and forwards from a good height for a few minutes ; then bake immediately. Waffles, Rice (a German recipe). Wash half a pound of rice in warm water, drain it, and boil in milk till it swells and becomes a thick mass. Take the rice off the fire then, and keep stirring it, adding by degrees one pound of flour, five eggs beaten up, two spoonfids of yeast, half a pound of melted butter, a little salt, and a ciipful of warm milk. Set it in a warm place to rise, and bake quickly in the usual way. Wales', Prince of, Sauce for Salads and Broiled Fish. Take a small handful of bui'net, chervil, chives, and tan-agon leaves, tlirow them into boiling water, and boQ them for a few minutes ; then put them into the comer of a napkin, and press the moisture thoroughly from them. Put the pulp into a mortar with two anchovies filleted, two hardboiled yolks of eggs, a dessert - spoonful of capers, a dessert-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and the yolk of a raw eg :;;. Pound these ingredients to a smooth paste, then add (first by droits, and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls) a quarter of a pint of lucca oil, beating the sauce well between every addition. Add last of all and very gradually about two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; rub the sauce through a hair sieve to make it smooth, and it will be ready for serving. Time, about threequarters of an hour to prepare the sauce. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or sis persons. WAL ( 1100 ) WAL Wall of Potatoes (to put round a dish, in the centre of which a fricassee is to be served). Boil as many potatoes as may be required, and mash them smoothly with butter. Put them round the dish upon which they are to be served, and with the bowls of two spoons mould thorn to the shape of a waU, two inches and a half wide at the base, two inches and a half high, and tapered towards the top. Make this wall quite smooth, brush over with beaten egg, and put it in the oven till it is lightly browned all over and quite hot. Pour the fricassee into the centre, and serve. Walnut. The walnut is now cultivated generally throughout Europe. " On the Contiaent," says Selby in his " History of Forest Trees," "the fruit is in great demand, and indeed becomes in many parts almost one of the necessaries of life. It constitutes a considerable portion of the food of the inhal)itants of certain districts, and also affords an oil little inferior when first di-awn to that of the olive, for which in many parts of France it is the substitute in aU culinary matters. The worst feature about the oil is that it soon turns rancid. The refuse matter, after the oil is extracted, is eaten in Switzerland by poor people, under the name of pain ani r. The nuts are used in various ways and at various stages of their growth. When young and green they make an excellent and well-known pickle, as well as a savoury ketchup, and a liqueur is also made from them in this state. Before they are fully ripe, and whilst the kernel is yet soft, walnuts are eaten iu France en cerneaux a way of preparing them with a seasoning of salt, pepper, vinegar, and shallots. About the end of September or the beginning of October they are fully ripe, and are then eaten in great quantities, being both wholesome and easy of digestion, so long as they remain fresh and part freely from the skin which envelops the kernel." Walnut Jam. Take fifty walnuts in which the shell has not begun to form, prick them all over, and boil in water till they are quite soft. Strain the water off, put a clovo in each, and strew over them two ounces of bruised ginger. Make a syrup of half a pint of water to two and a half pounds of coarse brown sugar, stirring on the fire till aU is melted ; then put in the walnuts, and boil for twenty minutes, stirring to prevent them burning. This jam forms an excellent laxative, and may be elevated to the position of a pleasant domestic medicine. Walnut Salad. Gather the young walnuts when the nut is just formed, and when they can be pierced easily with a pin. Pare them down to the kernels, put them into a saladbowl, pour a little good salad sauce. over them, toss them lightly in it, and serve immediately. This salad, though very agreeable, can only be had in places where walnuts grow abundantly. Walnut Vinegar. The vinegar which covers pickled walnuts is usef lJ for flavouring the gi-avj' used for hashes of cold meat. It is also excellent when used as a pickle. Walnuts, Pickled. Scald the walnuts, which must be used for pickling before they have a hard shell. This scalding will enable you easily to rub off the skin. Put them into a brine of salt and water strong enough, to float an egg. Let them stand three days, then shift them into fresh brine, and let tliom soak three days longer. Now shift them once more into fresh brine, and let them soak four days. They are then fit for the jar. Have ready prepared equal parts of black pepper, Jamaica pepper, allspice, and ginger ; a quarter of a pint of cloves, the same quantity of mace, and a pint and a half of white mustard-seed. Beat these ingredients together in a mortar, but do not pound them fine. Put the walnuts into the jar by layers, and over each layer strew some of the mixed seasoning. Then have ready some vinegar boiled with sliced horseradish and ginger, and cover the walnuts with it. \Vhen quite cold, cork and bladder the jar. This pickle is much improved by the addition of a little garlic and tarragon boiled with the vinegar. Walnuts, Pickled (to be made from the beginning to the middle of July). Be very particular to gather the green walnuts when they are in a proper state for pickling neither too soon nor too late. If they are too young, they will dissolve in the pickle ; if too old, they win resist the action of the vinegar. They ought to be taken before the shells have begun to form ; and the test of their fitness is that a large pin can, without difliculty, be pushed through them in every direction. If once the shoU can be felt they are no longer fit for pickling. Wipe the walnuts separately with a coarse cloth, put them into an earthen pan, and pour upon them a strong brine that will float a fresh egg. This brine may be made by boiling six ounces of salt with each quart of water. It should be skimmed carefully, and allowed to get cold before being put to the walnuts. Lay a thin board upon tlie walnuts to keep them under the brine. Turn them about ith a wooden spoon every day, and let them remain WAL ( 1101 ) WAS for six days ; then drain them, and pour fresh brine upon them. Leave them from three to six days longer, drain in a colander, and put them in the sun in a single layer, on a large dish covered with coarse sackcloth. They will turn black in a few hours. Tui-n them over once or twice, handling them gently. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely cover the walnuts, with spices, in the proportion of two ounces of whole ginger bruised, two ounces of black pepper, four blades of mace, two ounces of mustard seed, eight cloves stuck into four shallots or small onions, and a tea-spoonful of salt, to half a gallon of vinegar. A dessert- spoonful of scraped horseradish and one or two capsicums are sometimes added, but they destroy the flavour of the pickle. Boil the vinegar for ten minutes, put the walnuts into unglazed jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and when the vinegar is cool pour it upon them, and divide the spices equally amongst the bottles. When cold, tie them over with moistened bladder or with strong brown paper. As the walnuts soak up the vinegar, boil a little additional vinegar without spices, and pour it cold upon them. They must be kept entirely covered with the vinegar. They will be ready for use in three months, but will improve with keeping. If wanted for speedy use, pierce each one throughout both ways with a needle, leave them in the brine fully twelve days, and pour the vinegar upon them boiling hot. Time, about a fortnight to make the pickle. Probable cost, walnuts. Is. 6d. to 2s. per 100. Walnuts (to freshen old nuts for dessert) . ? Put the nuts into an earthen pan, and pour over them as much cold water slightly salted as will cover them. Leave them until the next day, and rub them dry before using them. Walnuts, To Preserve. Fill an earthen pot with them, and cover them with clay an inch thick. At Christmas-time they will be found as fresh as when first gathered. Another way is to put the walnuts into a common earthenware jar with an earthenware Ud, and burj the jar in the earth about a foot deep in a place not too wet or too diy. A third way is as follows : Gather the walnuts on a dry day, and directly the walnuts are taken out of the rind, put them into large flower-pots holding two pecks (any pans, however, will do as well), and when nearly full cover the pots two inches thick with sawdust. Place the pots on the floor in a wine-cellar. Washington Cake. Put three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it to cream. Add gradually a pound of sugar, four well-beaten eggs, a tea-cupful of milk, half a nutmeg grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, three table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a pound and three-quarters of flour ; flour a pound of dried currants, and stir them in also : they may be omitted. Beat the mixture briskly for a quarter of an hour. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of saleratus in a little hot water, and stir it into the mi.xturc. Line the sides and bottom of the pan with buttered paper, pour in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven. When a skewer which has been thrust into it comes out clear and dry it is done enough. Washington Cakes, Breakfast. Rub two ounces of butter into a pound and a half of floui- ; add a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, three well-beaten eggs, and a pint of milk. Beat the mixture thoi'oughly. Put it into buttered pans an inch deep, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. Time to bake the cakes, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. Wasps' Nest Cakes. Beat up six ounces of fresh butter, one egg, and three yolks. Add two spoonfuls of yeast, three spoonfuls of milk, and half a pound of flour. iSliike the mixture into a paste, roll it out thin, cut it into strips twelve fingers long, and three broad. Strew thickly with currants, chopped almonds, sugar, and cinnamon ; roll the strips up, butter a tin, and bake slowly. Strew with sugar, and serve. Wassail Bowl. The wassail bowl used in ancient da3's to be served specially on Christmas Eve. It was brought into the banqueting hall with songs and carols, and crowned with garlands. To make it, grate half a nutmeg, and put it into a saucepan with one clove, a quarter of an ounce of grated ginger, half a small blade of mace, an inch of stick cinnamon, and two or three coriander and cardamomseeds. Pour upon these ingredients a teacupful of cold water, and let them boil. Then add two bottles of white wine, not sweet, and three-quai'ters of a pound of refined sugar. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, and set it on the fire. Break the yolks of six. and the whites of three eggs into the wassail bowl. AVhen the wine is warm, mix a tea-cupful of it in a bowl with the eggs ; when it is a little warmer, add another tea-cupful, and repeat until five tea-cupfuls have been used. Let the wine boil, and jiour it upon the eggs, stirring briskly all the time to froth it. Core, but do not pare, six apples ; fiU the cavity with sugar, roast them, and throw them into the bowl. Serve very hot. Though sherry or madeira ought properly to be used, good raisin wine will make an excellent wassail, especially if a timiblerful of brandy be added to it. W assail Bowl (another way). Mix half an ounce of grated ginger, half a grated nutmeg, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon with half a pound of Demcrara sugar. Put it into a saucepan with a pint of ale, and let it boil ; then stir in two additional pints of ale, haK a bottle of sherry, madeira, or raisin wine, and a lai-ge lump of sugar which has been rubbed upon a fresh lemon till the yeUow part is taken off. Make the wine very hot, but do not allow it to boil ; put it into the bowl. Throw into it half a dozen apples roasted as in the last recipe, and half a small lemon cut into slices and freed entirely from the white pith. Serve very hot. Wassail Bowl (another way). The following is an old recipe for making the wassail bowl: Simmer a small quantity of the following spices in a tea-cupful of water, viz., cardamoms, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, cinnamon, and coriander. When done, put the spice to WAS ( 1102 ) WAT two, four, or six bottles of port, sherry, or madeira, with a pound and a half of line loaf sugar pounded to four bottles, and set all on the fire in a clean bright saucepan ; meanwhile, have the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs well whisked up in it. Then, when the spiced and sugared wine is a little warm, take out one tea-cupful, and so on for three or four cups; after which, when it boils, add the whole of the remainder, pouring it in gradually, and stirring it briskly all the time so as to froth it. The moment a fine froth is obtained, toss in tweh'e fine soft roristed apples, and send it up hot. Spices for each bottle of wine : Ten grains of mace, forty-six grains of cloves, thirty-seven grains of cardamoms, twenty-eight grains of cinnamon, twelve grains of nutmeg, fortyeight grains of ginger, and forty-nine grains of coriander-seeds. Wassail Bowl (another way). Put into a bowl half a pound of Lisbon sugar, pour on it a pint of warm beer, grate a nutmeg and some ginger into it, add four glassfuls of sherry and five additional pints of beer ; stir well, and sweeten to taste. Let the preparation stand covered up for two or three hours, then put into it three or four slices of bread cut thin and toasted brown. Sometimes a couple or three slices of lemon and a few lumps of loaf sugar rubbed into the peeling of a lemon are introduced. Wassail Custard. A wassail custard is really a tipsy cake under another name. Cover the bottom of a punch bowl or a deep glass dish with a mixtui-e of macaroons, ratafias, and -sponge biscuits, all crumbled. Moisten with sherry or raisin wine, and add a glassful of brandy and the strained juice of a lemon. Let the biscuits stand in a cool place for an hour, till they have absorbed the wine. Cover them with some rich, highly-seasoned custard, sprinkle grated nutmeg and powdered sugar hghtly upon the surface, and ornament ?with blanched and sliced almonds. Water as a Beverage. No water whatever is absolutely pure ; the freer, however, from extraneous matter the better, except that it should not be deprived of the common au-, of which it usually contains a portion; consequently, newly-distilled water is not desii-able, nor water that is just produced from thawed ice or snow such water should be exposed for a day or two to the atmosphere, that it may absorb air, which appears to be essential to it as an agreeable beverage. Spring water is the most agreeable, from its general purity and coolness; but all spring water is not fit for di-ink, as it often contains various salts. The water of rivers is in general good, particularly when filtered, so also is rain-water; stagnant is the worst. It is necessary to boil water only when it contains salts which require to be precipitated. "Water," says Dr. Paris, " is unquestionably the natural beverage of man; but any objection against the use of other beverages founded on their artificial origin I should at once repel bj an argument which might be also used in defence of cookcrj-. We are to consider man as he is, not as he might have been had he never forsaken the rude paths of nature. I am wiUing to confess that the more simply life is supported, and the less stimulus we use, the better, and that he is happy who considers water the best drink and salt the best sauce ; but how rarely does a physician find a patient who has regulated his life by such a maxim ! " Water, Cherry. Take a dozen moroUa cherries, crush the fruit, and break the kernels ; put them into a large tumbler, and pour over them a wine-glassful of capillaire. Half fill the tumbler with shaved ice, add a large wineglassful of cold water, and serve with sponge biscuits. Watercress. Watercress is a smaU plant which is appreciated both at home and abroad with some approach to its real value, especially in places where it cannot be easily procured. It possesses valuable medicinal properties of a stimulating nature, and is said to be particularly useful in strengthening the nerves. The expressed juice, which contains the peculiar pungency and taste of the herb, is used in medicine. The best watercresses are those found in running water; and when these cannot be had, it is important that the water from which they are taken should at least be pure. External impurities may be removed by A N., mh WATERCRESSES. washing, but not the impurities which are absorbed within. If the full virtues of this herb are to be experienced, it should be eaten frequently and freely. It is mostly used, with bread and salt, as an accompaniment to cheese. It is also used to garnish dishes ; it is excellent served as a salad; and it is good boiled as spinach, which is the only way in which the plant is eatable after running to flower.- Watercresses are good from autumn till early summer, unless when cut off by frost. Bronze-leaved specimens are the most highly esteemed. To thoroughly cleanse watercresses for eating plain water is not suflicient. Strong salt and water is, however, ver)- efl'ective. Watercress, Pigeons Stewed with. {see Pigeons Stewed with Watercress). WAT ( 1103 ) WAT Watercress Salad. Gather the watercress when young, cleanse it thoroughly in salt and water, and servo as fresh as possible; Place it in a bowl, either alone or mixed with other salad plants, and toss it lightly in a simple salad sauce. When served at breakfast, watercress is best sent to table as it is, fresh and crisp. Watercresses, Wholesomeness of. Watercress acts as a gentle stimulant and diuretic ; for these purposes the expressed juice, which contains the peculiar taste and pungency of the herb, may bo taken in doses of an ounce or two, and continued for a considerable time. It should bo at the same time eaten at breakfast, also at dinner, and for supper, to experience benefit from the virtues of this herb. Haller says, " We have seen patients in deep declines cured by almost entirely living on this plant." Water Gruel. Ascertain whether it is desired that the gruel should be thick or thin. If it is preferred thick, mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal smoothly with a httle cold water ; if it is preferred thin, one table-spoonful of oatmeal will be sufficient. Boil a pint of water in a saucepan, stir it gradually into the oatmeal in the basin, return the mixture to the saucepan, and boil it till smooth. Stir it well to keep it from burning, skim it, strain through a sieve, sweeten, season, or flavour it, and it will be ready for use. The gruel may be used after it has boiled five minutes. It will be better if boiled a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, one haKpenny. Sufficient for one jDerson. Water Gruel, Relishes for. Gruel may be sweetened and flavoured with nutmeg, ginger, or grated lemon, ale, wine, or spirit ; or it may be seasoned with salt and pepper, and flavoured with spices, herbs, mushroom jjowder, celery-seed, shallots, or onions. When sweetened with treacle, and taken just before getting into bed, it is one of the best suppers that can be partaken of by any one who is suffering from a cold in the head or on the chest. It is most usually served with a small piece of butter dissolved in it, and either sweetened with sugar or seasoned with salt. Water Ices. Water ices are made of the juices of ripe fruits mixed with syrup and frozen ; and it must be remembered that if the juices are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is, therefore, necessary to test them with an instrument called a sacchai'ometer. To do this, put the mixture prepared for freezing in a tumbler, place the saccharometer gently in it : if it is mixed con-ectly for freezing -\\ith powder it will stick to the highest red mark ; for freezing with ice and salt to the lowest red mark. To make it sink, add water to the mixture ; to make it rise, add syrup. These remarks apj ly also to ice creams, ice puddings, and all drinks which are to be frozen. For water ices clarified sugar should be used ; and this may be made by boiHng for ten minutes, and skimming thoroughly, a quart of water with three pounds of sugar and half the white of an egg well whisked. Having prepared the mixture and also ascertained its strength, put it into an ice-pot. Place it in the ice-pail, and surromid it with ice which has been broken almost to powder and mixed with salt and a little saltpetre. Work the freezer rapidly for ten minutes ; then remove the ice from the sides of the freezer with the ice-spattle, and work it again till it is stiff and smooth. Put it into the mould, and leave it in ice mixed with salt and saltpetre till it is to be served. To turn it out, wipe it with a cloth, dip it in cold water for a minute, and wipe it dry ; lift off the ends of the mould, and with the fingers push the ice upon its dish. ? Hecipes for the following water ices will be found under their respective headings : Melon Orange Pine-apple pomegkanate EuM Stbaw] Easpberry Cherry GlNGER GooseberryGrape Lemon Water in Food. " The action of water in our food," says a medical writer, "is very important. There would be no carrjang of food into the system but for the agency of water. It dissolves everything that we take, and nothing that we take as food can become nutriment that is not dissolved in water. It would not do to test that by taking things and putting them into water and seeing whether they dissolve, and rejecting them as food according to that circumstance ; because food undergoes a considerable change in the stomach. It undergoes a change to begin with in our mouth. One of the great objects of that change is to render things soluble which had been before insoluble in water. Starch, which we cannot dissolve in water out of the stomach, is dissolved in water directly it gets into the mouth, for the starch is changed by the saliva into sugar, and that which would lie unchanged in water for months is so changed by the saliva of the mouth and the gastric juice of the stomach that it is speedily dissolved. Thus, when we are taking considerable quantities of diy food, it becomes absolutely necessary that we should add a certain quantity of water, so that this dry food should become dissolved. Such things as oats, barley, wheat, rice, maize, and other articles of diet containing httle water, must have water added, in order that their starch, fat, and gluten may be dissolved, and enter into the system." Water-Melon Rind, To Preserve. Pare oft' the outer skin, cut the rind into shajjes, green them by simmering with vino-leaves and a little alum, and allow a poirad and a quarter of sugar to each pound. Slake the syrup, clarify it with the white of an egg, and simmer the melon-rind tiU done through and transparent. Boil down the syrup afterwards, and pour it over the j)reserves. Water, Orange (for flavouring). Take the thin rind of oranges, without any of the white part ; bruise it in a mortar, and pour as much boiling water upon it as wiU barely cover it. Cover closel)-. When cold, strain the liquor, and bottle for use. WAT ( 1104 ) WEA Water, Purification of. Pure water is incapable of putrefaction, but ordinarily water contains a small quantity of organic matter in solution which quickly undergoes decomposition even in closed vessels. This is particularly the case when the water is kept in wooden casks, or in open cisterns, into which leaves and insects are driven by the wind. As a beverage, putrescent water is highly unwholesome. Among the various methods that are adopted for purifying foul water, are the following: 1. Filtration thi-ough or agitation with powdered freshly-bumt charcoal, either animal or vegetable, but preferably the latter. This removes both mechanically suspended matter, and part of the calcareous and gaseous impurities held in solution. 2. Free exposure to the action of the air, by which the organic matters become oxidised and insoluble, and speedily subside. This may be eifected easily by agitating the water in contact with fresh air, or by forcing an- through it by means of bellows. 3. Add a little sulphuric acid ; fifteen to twenty drops are usually sufficient for a gallon. This addition may be advantageously made to water intended for filtration through charcoal, by which plan at least two thirds of the latter may be saved (Lowitz). 4. An ounce of powdered alum (dissolved) well agitated with a hogshead or more of foul water, will purify it in the course of a few hours, when the clear portion can be decanted. When the water is very putrid, about half a di-achm (or even one drachm) per gallon may be employed. 5. A solution of ferric sulphate acts in the same way as alum ; a few drops arc enough for a gallon. 6. Sea- water may be rendered fit for use as a beverage by distillation. The waste heat of the cook's galley is amply suflicient for this purpose. There are several patent contrivances for the distiUation of water on ship-board. Cooley. Water, Purity of. The pmity of water may be loiown by the following marks or l roperties of pure water: 1. Pure water is lighter than water that is not pure. 2. Pure water is more fluid than water that is not pure. 3. It has no colour, smell, or taste. 4. It wets more easily than the waters containing metallic and earthy salts, called hard waters, and feels softer when touched. 5. 8oap, or a solution of soap in alcohol, mixes easily and perfectly with it. 6. It is not rendered turbid by adding to it a solution of gold in aqua regia, or a solution of silver or of mercury in nitric acid, or a solution of acetate of lead in water. Water Souchet. Take some very small flounders or dabs ; clean them thoroughly, and boil them in water with a little salt till tender. Take them up carefuUy with a slice, one by one, keeping the white side uppermost. Put theni into a vegetable-dish nearly fuU of boiling water, and throw into this two or tlu-ee sprigs of clean double parsley. Serve very quickly. Hand round with the fish thin slices of brown bread and butter. Water souchet is made also of eels, soles, and plaice. The fish ought to be very small; but if they cannot be procured, and larger ones have to be used, they should be cut into moderate-sized pieces, rejecting the heads and tails. Time, a few minutes to boil the fish. Probable cost, Gd. for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for three or four persons. Water Souchet (another way). Take a quart of water, a few perch or flounders, some parsley and parsley-roots. Stew these in a suitable pan, and when soft pulp them through a sieve. Into the liquor put the remainder of the fish with more parsley and parsley-roots and some salt. Boil till the fish is done enough, and then send it to table in the surrounding water, together with the roots. A few of the fish stewed down strengthens the water in which the fish is afterwards served. Water, Toast and. By impregnating water with the solul)lo parts of toasted bread, it will frequently agree with those stomachs which rebel against the use of the pure fluid. It is thus rendered slightly nutritive, holding a certain portion of gum and starch in solution. Sir A. Carlisle recommends that it should be prepared with hard biscuit reduced by fire to a coftee-colour. " This drink," he says, " being free from yeast, is a most agreeable beverage." Much dejDcnds upon the water being at the boiling temperature, and it ought to be drunk as soon as it has cooled sufiiciently, for by keeping it acquires an unpleasant flavour. Infusions of other kinds of bread, in particular of toasted oat-cakes, also dried or toasted oatmeal, have been recommended ; but the taste of such infusions would not be palatable to any one who has not been accustomed to eat oat-bread. Waters. Recipes for the following waters will be found under their respective headings : Apple Pine-apple Apple, Iced Pomegr- xate Arrowroot Pice Barley Soda Currant Summer Beverages Gooseberry Toast and Water Lemon Vinegar and Watep. Marshmallow {see Summer Beve MULRERRY rages) Waters, Iced Fruit. These are very agreeable beverages, in their season, for evening parties. Currants, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, or apples, may be used for making them. To make strawberry water, take a pottle of strawberries let them be scarlet strawberries, if possible, on account of the beautiful colour they impart to the syrup pick them carefully, and put them into three pints of very weak syrup ; bruise the strawberries in it, and boil them up; strain the water tlirough a jelly-bag without any pressure, which would make the water thick. Ice the water, and keep it in a cool place till wanted. To make cuirant and cherry waters, a stronger syrup must be used than for strawberries, but the exact strength of the syrup must be detemiined by taste. Weaver Pish. The great weaver, or the sea-cat, of Sussex, generally measures about twelve inches in length, swims near the bottom, and is remarkable for living a long time after it is taken out of the water. It is also armed with very sharp spines, which inflict wounds WEB ( 1105 ) WEI difficult to heal, unless one uses friction with oil. The fishermen consequently cut off these spines previous to bringing the fish to market. They are a sort of marine perch, and are excellent. The lesser weaver is more common on oui- coasts than the great weaver, and, having the facultj' of striking with its sharp spines, is often called the sting-fish. Wcbutcr and I'arkcs. Webster Cakes. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add haK a pound of powdered white sugar, three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, a table-si oonf iil of orangeflower water, a table-spoonful of brandy, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and five well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixtui-o till it is very light. Line some shallow tins with buttered paper, pour in the mixture to the depth of half an inch, and bake the cake in a brisk oven. Before serving the cake cut it into squares or oblong pieces with a sharp knife. Time to bake the cake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. for this quantity. Wedding Cake, Excellent. A wedding cake is an expensive article to purchase, and if it is not wanted very large, may be made at home without much difficulty, and with a great saving of expense. It will improve with keeping indeed, confectioners do not use their cakes until they have been made some months ; and if a cake is cut into soon after it is made it WEDDING CAKE. will crumble. To make a wedding cake, first procure the following ingredients : One pound and a half of flour, one pound and a half of butter, half a pound of candied lemon, half a pound of candied orange, half a pound of candied citron, one pound of dried cherries, one pound and a half of dried currants (if the cherries cannot easily be procured, they may be omitted, and two pounds and a half of currants used instead), eight ounces of almonds, eight eggs, the rind of four oranges or of two lemons rubbed upon sugar, half an ounce of spices, consisting of powdered cinnamon, grated nutmeg, and powdered cloves in equal proportions, a tea-spoonful of .salt, and a small tumblerful of brandy. If objected to, the brandy may be omitted, and another egg may be added. Wash, l ick, and dry the currants, cut the cherries into moderate-sized pieces, slice the candied peel into thin shi'eds, blanch and pound the almonds, or cut them into very small pieces, and crush the flavoured sugar to powder. Put the butter into a large bowl, and beat it to cream, either with a wooden spoon or v;ith the hand. Add very gradually the sugar, flour, and eggs, and wheii they are thoroughly mixed work in the rest of the ingredients. Put them in a little at a time, and beat the cake between every addition. It should be beaten fully tliree-quarters of an hour. Line a tin hoop with double folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and place it on a metal baking-sheet with twelve folds of paper under it, and four or five on the top, to keep it from burning. Put it in a moderatelyheated oven, and keep the oven at an even temperature until it is done enough. If the cake is to be iced, first prepare the almond part : Take half a pound of almonds, throw them into boiling water, and skin them. Pound them in a mortar with a few drops of oranue-flower water, one pound of fine white sugar, and as much white of egg as will make a soft stiff paste. Spread this over the top of the cake, and keep it from the edge as much as possible. Put it in a cool oven, or in a warm place, till it is dry and hard. To make the sugar icing, put the whites of six eggs into a bowl without a speck of the yolk. Beat them for half a minute just to break them, then add one pound and a half of finely-sifted white sugar. Work the mixture to a stiff shiny paste, and whilst working it add occasionally a drop of lemon-juice. Very white sugar must be chosen. If a drop of liquid blue is added, it will make it look whiter. The icing will need to be worked vigorously from an hour to an hour and a half. The longer it is beaten the harder it will be. The cake ought not to be iced until a short time before it is wanted, as it may get dirty. The icing should be spread evenly all over it with a knife to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and it should be put in a gentle oven to harden. It may be ornamented with little knobs of icing placed round the edge; and on the day of the wedding a wreath of wliite flowers and green leaves may be placed round it by way of ornament. If anything more elaborate is required, a pretty centre ornament may be made with glazed white cardboard, silver paper, and orangeblossom; or a stand and a drum, with artificial flowers, may be hired of the confectioner. Time to bake the cake, about six houi-s. Probable cost, 10s., or thereabouts. A cake of the same size, if bought at the confectioner's, would cost at least 30s. Sufficient for a cake the size of a large dinner-plate. This, when placedj?on a stand and ornamented, will have a verj'' good appearance. Wedding Cake isce also Bride Cake). Weights and Measures. Every kitchen should have scales, with weights from a quarter of an ounce to two pounds placed on the dresser, and the weights should be kej t carefully in order. A set of tin measures with small spouts or lips, with the contents distinctly marked upon them, from a gallon down to half a gill, will also be found very convenient. WEL ( 1106 ) WEL It is likewise well to have a set of wooden measures, from a bushel down to a quarter of a peck. Let it be remembered that of liquid measure Two gills are half a pint. Two pints are one quart. Four quarts are one gallon. Of dry measure Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. One gallon is half a peck. Two gallons are one peck. Four gallons are half a bushel. Eight gallons are one bushel. About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common-sized tea-spoon. A common tumbler holds half a pint. Four table-spoonfuls, or half a gill, -will fill a common wine-glass. Four wine-glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large coffee-cup. A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half. Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastrj', a quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound avoirdupois (sixteen ounces). Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken. A tea-spoonful of salt or brown sugar is generally about one ounce. The following table may be added, by which persons not having scales or weights at hand may readily measure the articles wanted to form any recipe, without the trouble of weighing. Allowance must be made for any extraordinary di-yncss or moisture of the articles weighed or mcasui-ed. "Wheat flour . . .1 lb. is 1 qt. Indian meal . . . 1 lb. 2 oz. is 1 qt. Butter, when soft . . 1 lb. is 1 qt. Loaf sugar broken . . 1 lb. is 1 qt. White sugar powdered . 1 lb. 1 oz. is 1 qt. , Best brown sugar . . 1 lb. 2 oz. is 1 qt. ' Eggs . . . .10 eggs are 1 lb. Flour .... 8 qts. are 1 peck. Flour .... 4 pecks are 1 bush. Welsh Ale, Fine. Boil fifty gallons of river water for an liour, withdraw the fire, and ?when the steam has gone off pour it ujDon seven bushels of fresh-ground malt ; cover close, and let it infuse for half an hour. Stii- or mash up twenty minutes at least, cover again close, and leave it for two hom-s. Infuse four pounds of good 'Worcester hops in half a gallon of hot water one hour ; put it into the tub, and let the wort run upon it from the mash ; do not press the grains, but boil the wort with the hops slowly but continually two hoiu-s, adding two handfuls of table-salt the last ten minutes. Strain the wart into your cooler, and work it at the proper temperature (70¦ Fahr.) with two quarts of good fresh ale-yeast, stirring well twenty minutes. If the weather be cool, cover it up, and in thi-co days fill a thirty-six gallon barrel, covering the bung-hole with a tile, and filling up with the liquor. WTien the fermentation has entirely ceased, put into the cask a pound of v hite sugar candy, and a pint of old wheat tied in a muslin bag ; then bung it up, paste coarse linen over the bung, and heap sand upon that. Let it stand twelve months, and it wiU be excellent and beautifully fine. Itobinson. Welsh Ale, Strong. Boil eighty-two gallons of river water an hour, and when the steam has subsided pour it upon twelve bushels of prime newly-ground malt ; cover close, and when it has infused one hour mash up for twenty minutes, and let it stand two hours longer. Pour two gallons of boiling - yater on nine pounds of the best Kent hops, cover close, and let it stand an hour ; then put it into the tub, and run the wort upon it. Stir well, and boil all together two hours, or more if you choose, but this is long enough for all purposes ; add two or three handfuls of table-salt at the last, and when cool enough strain the wort into your cooler, and work it with good fresh yeast. Cover with cloths if the weather is cold, and in three days fill your hogshead ; and putting the bung on lightly, or covering with paper and a slate, let it work out. FiU up the cask night and morning ; and when femientation has ceased dry two pounds of the spent hops before the fire gradually, and put nearly twothu'ds of them into the ale. Bung up weU, and keep it three years, it will then be fit to drink ; and the latter part, if carefully bottled, will be admirable in two years more. "This recipe," says Mr. Eobinson, " is from the original of a respectable woman, who during a long series of years was accounted the best brewer in North Wales. She preferred March to brew in, unless the weather was severe, to October." Welsh Beef. A round of beef prepared in this way will keep for two months in cold weather, and constitute a good standing dish. If the quantity for which the recipe is written is too large, a small roimd weighing eighteen or twenty pounds may be taken, or a part of a round of the weight that is required, and cooked in the same waj-. Half a round might lie in the salt ten days or a fortnight, instead of three weeks. Take a round of beef weighing from twenty-five to thirty pounds, rub two ounces of saltpetre into it, and let it lie for an hour. Eub it well with a powder made of one pound of common salt, one ounce of white pcpjier, one ounce of moist sugar, one nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves. Lay the meat in a pickling-pan, rub the ingredients into it, and turn and rub them every day for three weeks. Wash the moat in cold water, and let it dry. Skewer it into a round form, and bind with tape. Put it into an earthen pan with plenty of chopped suet under and over it, pour a cupful of water or stock round it, cover the vessel with a coarse paste of flour knd water, and bake the beef in a moderate oven till tender. Pour off the gravy, and let the beef stand till cold. This gra y will when strained form an excellent foundation for soup. The beef will have a much better appearance if it is pressed under a heavy weight for some hours after being taken from the oven, and brushed over twice with liquid glaze. The glaze may be made of any strong clear gravj boiled quickly until it thickens when dropped from the spoon ; or a small quantity may be bought of the grocer, dissolved in the usual WEL ( 1107 ) YiTES way, and used. Time to bake the beef, six to eight hours, or a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, beef, lOd. or lid. per 230und. Welsh Capillaire. Take a pound and a half of clarified honey, lialf a pound of preserved ginger, three quarts of strong raisin Avine, two quarts of proof spirit of wine, one ounce each of candied lemon and citron sliced, two ounces of red-currant jelly, four ounces of sugar-candy beaten fine, one ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little water, two ounces of sweet almonds beaten to a paste, half an ounce of bitter almonds also beaten to a paste, one ounce of thin rind of Seville oranges, and one ounce of lemon-juice strained. Clarify the honey to the highest extent; beat the almonds with a spoonful of the wine ; and infuse all in a jar for two months. Then strain and filter it bright ; colour with light yellow, and bottle it. This is a pleasant but not strong cordial, and should be kept in a cool room until two years old to be excellent. Welsh Gallimanfry. Slice some cheese and put it in a mortar. Pound it well, flavour rather highly - ath mustard, and moisten with butter, a little vinegar, and wine. When quite smooth it will be ready for serving. Welsh Haras. A Welsh ham is simply the name given to a fat leg of mutton which has been cured and smoked like an ordinary ham. As a Welsh ham has little fat of its own, it is ciistomary to put a piece of fat bacon into the paa vnth. it when boiling, and to serve the bacon with the ham. Welsh Leek Porridge. This is made just like cock-a-leekie soup, and thickened with toasted bread. It used to be the custom to stew French plums with the porridge, but this now is scarcely ever done. Welsh Nectar (a pleasant summer beverage). Cut the peel of three lemons very thin, and put the rind into a jar with the strained juice, two pounds of loaf sugar, and a pound of raisins stoned and chopped small. Pour uijon these ingredients two gallons of water which has been boiled and allowed to cool. Stir the liquor daily for five days, strain through a jelly-bag, bottle, and tie down the corlf. It will be fit for use in ten days or a fortnight. Time, five days to make the nectar. Probable cost. Is. per gallon. Sufficient to make two gallons. Welsh Pudding, Modern (sometimes called Quaker's Pudding). Take half a pound of fresh beef suet free from skin and fibre. Chop it small, and mix with it half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a pound of sugar, the grated rind of a large fresh lemon, and the juice of two. Mix these ingredients thoroughlj', and bind the mixture together with two eggs well beaten. Put it into a buttered mould, place it in boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, four hours. Probable cost, Is. or Is. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Welsh Pudding, Very Rich.~Eub a large Imnp of sugar upon the rind of a fresh lemon till all the yellow part is taken oif . Crush it to powder, and add additional sugar to make up the quantity to thi'ee ounces. Melt four ounces of fresh butter very gently. Mix with it the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, and add the sugar. Line a shallow dish with good pastry, put in the mixtui-e, and bake till done enough. Time to bake the pudding, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suflicient for four or five persons. Welsh Rarebit. Cut half a pound of a mellow Gloucester cheese into thin slices. Put an ounce and a half of butter upon a i late, and knead it before the fire with a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard and a pinch of cayenne till it looks like thick cream. Cut from a large loaf a roimd of bread half an inch tliick. Trim away the crust, toast the bread, and butter thickly. Lay half the cheese upon it, pour half the seasoned butter upon that, and add, first the remainder of the cheese, then the rest of the butter. Put the bread in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and let it remain until tlie cheese is melted. Serve very hot. Time to toast the cheese, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Welsh Rarebit (another way). -SVe Cheese, Toasted, or Welsh Karebit. West Country Pudding. Take a quarter of a pound of good baking apples, weighed after thej- are pared and cored. Mince them finely, and mix with them a quarter of a pound of currants picked and di-ied, a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and two wellbeaten eggs. Press the mixture into a buttered mould which it will c] uite fill, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quiclcly till done enough. Send sweet sauce to table with it. If liked, cold boiled rice which has been di-ained from the milk in which it v as boiled may be used instead of bread-crumbs. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. Suflicient for four or five persons. West Indian Pepper Pot {xcc Pepper Pot, West Indian). West Indian Pudding. Take a quarter of a pound of stale s jonge biscuits, crumble them into a bowl, and pour upon them half a pint of boiling cream nicely sweetened. Let them soak for an hour. Beat the mixture with a fork, and add three well-beaten eggs. Butter a small pudding-mould. Line it with preserved ginger cut in thin slices, and fill it with the pudding, placed gently into it bj' spoonfuls so as not to disturb the ginger. Cover it, and tie securely in a cloth. Put it in a saucepan upon a plate turned upside down, surround it with about three inches of boiling water, and keep the water boiling. When done enough, turn it out, and serve with the sjiaip from the ginger made hot, and i oured over it. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Time, tlu-ee-quarters of an houi' to one hour to steam the jjudding. WES ( 1108 ) WHE Westphalia Hams. Westphalia is celehrated for the delicacy and flavour of its hams. A Westphalia ham needs to be soaked longer than one cured at home. It should he laid in cold water for twenty-four hours, drained, covered with fresh water, and left for another twenty-four hours. When sufficiently soaked, cleanse and trim it, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Take it up, put it in a stewpan upon a bed of sliced carrots, onions, and celery, and add a bunch of marjoram, a sprig of thj me, a clove of garlic, three bay-leaves, a dozen peppercorns, half a dozen cloves, and a blade of mace. Pour over the ingredients as much stock as will barely cover them, and let the ham simmer gently until done enough. Take the stewpan from the tire, and leave the ham in the liquor till cold. Take it up, draw off the rind, trim the fat evenly, put it in the oven for a few minutes, then press it with a di-y cloth to free it from fat, and either glaze it or shake breadraspings all over it. lime to simmer the ham, about five hours. Westphalia Hams, Mock. Hams may be cured at home in such a way that they will acquire something of the flavour which belongs to AVestphalia hams. To do this, rub each ham with one ounce and a half of pounded saltpetre and one ounce and a half of moist sugar. Let it lie for twenty-four hours. Put a pound of strong stale beer into a stewpan with a pound of common salt, a pound of baysalt, half a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of pounded cloves, and a little piece of sal-prunella. Let the liquor boil, skim it, and poui- it boiling hot upon the ham, which should be tm-ned and rubbed in it twice a day for a fortnight. Or make the pickle by boiling two gallons of soft water with two pounds of common salt, two ounces of baysalt, two ounces of saltpetre, and a handful of bay-leaves finely shred. Pom- the boiUng liquor upon the ham, and turn and rub it every day as before. Burn juniper wood under the hams when smoking them. The Westphalia hams derive their pecuHar flavour not from the way in which they are cured and smoked alone : the peculiar nature of the food of the Westphahan pigs has a great deal to do with it. Westphalian Ham Boiled Delicately. After the ham has soaked all night in lukewarm water, it is laid in the kettle with a depth of about nine inches in water, a quart of wine, a little rosemary, a handful of sage, thj-me, basil, marjoram, whole pepper, juniperberries, and some whole onions. With these ingredients it must boil for four hours only, that is to say, to draw it. We may prevent its falling asunder by binding it in a clean old cloth. When completely tender, we take it out in the cloth, lay it on a dish, di-aw off the rind after removing the cloth, and ornament it with the rind. The more it is garnished the better it is. When cold, lay it from the cloth on a clean dish, and tastefully arrange parsley about it. Udc. Westphalian Sausages. Take six pounds of lean beef and two pounds of cow's udder-fat ; boil the meat, but let the fat only parboil ; then mince them up as fine as possible; take about a third of the quantity of breadcrumbs, which have been soaked in the soup, the soup being well pressed from them ; add salt, pounded pepper, cloves, and sausage-herbs ; mix the whole well together, and fill fat oxentrails which have been thoroughly cleaned. Parboil them ; then smoke them of a yellowish colour. To be eaten with other things, or warmed with cabbage, or fried in butter. These sausages will not keep very long. A. von Kochheim. Westphalian Sausages (a German recipe). Take twelve pounds of any parts of the pork, fat and lean together, and cut it up. It should not be minced so fine as for other sausages, in fact the pieces sliould not be smaller than peas. Season with half an ounce of black pepper freslily ground, and a quarter of a pound of salt, sprinkhng the seasoning among the meat on beginning mincing. After filling in the pig-skins, hang the sausages to smoke foia week. If to be eaten fresh, the sausages will be improved by hanging for a few days in a cool dry jdace. Wheat. The cereal used in the largest quantity is wheat. With regard to its composition, there would appear to be quite as much if not more nutritive matter in oats a larger quantity of saline matter, and, in fact, of all those constituents of food which are necessary to the production of tissues, the maintenance of the animal heat, and the supply of mineral materials to the body. With regard, also, to barley, we find that barley has the same capabilities as oats it contains all the constituents of wheat and of oats. We may also say in regard to maize, that it contains the same constituents starch, nutritive matter, and sahne matter even in larger quantities than oats and wheat ; and, in addition to them, it contains a very large quantity of fatty matter and of oily matter, which is not found in wheat, in barley, or in oats. Why, then, has wheat been consumed so largely by the most polished nations on the face of the earth ? WTiy do barley, oats, rice, maize, and millet constantly succumb to wheat ? "Where wheat will grow there it has been grown in India and C'hina and where people can get wheat they will have it. I have no other explanation to oft'er, except that wheaten flour alone of all these farinaceous foods will make fermented broad. I do not know, however, that the time may not come when we shall find that the fennented bread of wheat flour is not so good as the unfermented bread from the flour of other grains, and that we may not have occasion to change our habits in this respect. But at the present time wheat is consumed. Its product is more abundant in districts of a higher temperature than our own, and it is always cultivated in this country with difficulty. Our really natural grains are "barley and oats. Barley is cultivated as high as 70¦ of latitude, and also in the tropical parts of the western world; so that barley has a greater range than oats or wheat. The oat has a much more northern range than wheat, and of the three, the wheat is cultivated in our northern WHE ( 1109 ) WHE climate at the greatest uncertainty and expense ; but still we cultivate it. Wheat does not appear to have a larger quantity of nutritive matter : it contains less protein than oats, and very little more than Indian meal ; a considerable quantity, however, more than rice, but not a much larger quantity than barley-meal. It seems, then, not so much its composition, as the power it possesses of making a Hght loaf by fermentation, which causes it to bo the favoui'ite form of food. Br. Lankester. Wheat and Maize Bread. Mix seven pounds of Indian meal with double its weight in wheaten flour, and add four ounces of salt. Mix a pint and a half of fresh yeast with two quarts of boiling water. Make a hollow in the flour without touching the bottom of the bowl, pour in the yeast and stir into it as much flour as will make a thin batter. Sprinkle flour lightly on the surface of the batter, cover the bowl, and leave it on the hearth for an hour. Stir into it two additional quarts of boUiug water, cover it again, and let it stand in a warm place for ten hours. Knead thoroughly, gash the surface with a knife, and lot the dough rise a couple of hours longer tiU it is very Ught. Form it into loaves, put these into the tins, let them rise half an hour longer, and bake in a good oven. If the crust is hard, wrap the loaves in a towel as soon as they are taken from the oven. Bread made in this way is inexpensive and wholesome. It has a peculiar flavour which improves with acquaintance. Wheat and Rice Bread {see Bread, Wheat and Kice). Wheatears. These birds are in season from July to October. They shoiild be dressed the day on which they are killed. Carefully pick and draw the birds, truss them like larks, put them on a bird-spit, or pass a long skewer WHEATEARS. from one bird to the other, and put the roastinghook between them that they may hang side by side. Flour them, put them down to a clear fire, and baste, plentifully with butter. When done, dish them upon fried bread, and garnish the dish with sliced lemon. Send bread sauce to table with them. Many cooks brush them nver with yolk of egg and sprinkle bread crumbs upon them before putting them down to the fire. Time to roast the wheatears, about ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Wheaten Bread, Wholesomeness of. The chemical changes which flour undergoes during the process of making bread are not easily understood; for when the panary fermentation is completed, its properties are so altered that we cannot obtain from it either fecula or gluten. Bread, therefore, dift'ers widely from the flour of which it is composed, and, in fact, may bo considered as a new substance. It is easier of digestion than any other preparation of flour, and mixes more readily with water, but is considerably less nutritive. Newly-baked bread, however, swells in the stomach, and is far from being easily digested. Indeed, the process of fermentation does not appear to be completed till the bread is cold; for new bread differs from old, not only in its effects, but in its smell and taste. The best bread, says Dr. Coghan, is made of pure flour of good wheat, sufficiently leavened, somewhat salted, well moulded, well baked, neither too new nor too old; that is to say, that it be at least a day and a night old, and not past four or five days old, except the loaves be very great. Besides the nutritive qualities of bread, it prevents the bad effects which would result from the use of too much animal food, rich soup, and other concentrated food ; and also serves to divide and give our aliment a proper bidk and consistence. It may be allowed to the stomach of the weakest patient, neither stimulates nor relaxes the system, and is justly called the staff of life. ? Imray. Whelks. Procure the whelks alive if possible. To cleanse them, put them into fresh - Si water for several hours. Boil them in salt and water. They are hard and leathery in substance, and will need to boil a long time. The small ones, which may be eaten as periwinkles, will require three-quarters of an hour; the large ones with shells as large as hens' eggs, one hour and a quarter. Large whelks, even after being thus boiled, are scarcely eatable ; WHE ( 1110) WHI therefore take them out of their shells, flouithem or dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Before serving, sprinkle pepper and vinegar upon them. Good soup maigre may be made from whelks. Whey. Whey decanted from the cui-ds and sweetened affords a favourite sudorific di-aught, which may be advantageously partaken of at bedtime whenever there is a thieatening of cold in the head. Whey (another way). See Curd. Whey, Alum {see Alum Whey). Whey, Irish (an excellent drink in cases of fever). Put two-thirds of a pint of sweet milk into a -saucepan, let it boil, and then stir into it a third of a pint of fresh buttermilk. Gently stir the mixture round, and let it boil up. Pour it out, let it settle, and strain off the whey. In Ireland milk is generally turned in the way thus described. The whey possesses a slight acidity which is very agreeable : it is of a perfectly clear greenish hue. It is often called two-milk whey. Whey, Lemon. Let the quantity of milk required boil, and stir into it when boiling as much strained lemon- juice as will turn the milk. Let it boil a minute or two, cool it, and strain off the whey. Add as much water as will make it an agreeable beverage, sweeten, and it will bo ready for use. Whey thus made is less heating than that for which wine is used. When they are liked, the curds may be sweetened, flavoured with nutmeg, and eaten. They are rather indigestible, and should certainly be avoided by an invalid. Whey, Lemon (another way). See Lemon Whey. Whey, Vinegar. Make a pint of millc boil, and stir into it when boiling a glassful of vinegar. Let it boil from one to two minutes, cool it, and strain off the whey. A little water and sugar may be added if liked. Vinegar whey, like lemon whey, is less heating than Avine whey, and it promotes perspiration just as well. Whey, Wholesomeness of. When milk is coagulated by the addition of a small piece of rennet, the whey, when separated from the purd, contains some butter and curd in solution 5 it also holds in solution nearly all the sugar of the milk, and is therefore more liable than milk to ferment in weak stomachs, and produce flatulence. Whey is not so nutritious as milk, but affords an excellent demulcent di-ink in consumption, coughs, jaundice, and some other diseases, either alone or mixed with mineral waters. Whey, Wine. Boil a pint of new milk in a saucepan, and stir into it two glassfuls of sherry or raisin wine, or less if that will completely turn it. Bring it again to the point of boiling, let it stand a few minutes, remove the curd, pour off the clear whey, and sweeten. If it is for an invalid a little hot water may be added. The curd is indigestible. Whim Wham. Bub three ounces of sugar in lumps upon the rind of half a lemon till the yellow part is taken off, crush it to powder, and stir it into a pint of cream. Add a glassful of sherry or any other white wine and the well- whisked Avhite of an egg. Wliisk the cream till it froths, and as the froth rises place it on a sieve to drain. Put back into the bowl the cream that drains from the froth, and whisk it again. If the weather is cold, leave the froth in a cool place until the next day. Cut four ounces of sponge biscuits into very thin slices, and fill a glass dish with alternate layers of whipped cream, sliced biscuit, and currant jelly. Let the froth foi-m the uppermost layer. Pour the cream which, has drained from the froth round the dish, and garnish with strips of candied peel and brightcoloured jelly. Time, one hour or more to whip the cream. Probable cost, 2s. -id. {Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Whipped Cream (a French recipe). Put a quart of very thick cream into a pan ; beat it with a whisk until it becomes entirely frothed, which will soon be the case if the weather be cold ; or, to hasten the operation, put some pounded ice with a good handful of salt into a deep pan, and in it set your pan of cream. The froth will have a greater consistency if you put into the cream a piece of pounded gum-tragacanth about the size of a pea, or the white of an egg beat up : but the former is preferable. If the froth forms slowly, take it off by degrees with a slice, and lay it on a sieve covered with a fine cloth to drain till wanted for serving, which ought not to be long, or the froth will fall. Wliat drains from it may be added to the rest and whi2:)pcd. If the cream will not froth in a quarter of an hour it is not good for that pvirpose. When it has drained, mix three or four ounces of sifted sugar to it, and flavour according to taste as follows : A spoonful of orange-flower water, or a few orange-flowers pounded mixed with the sugar; or a tea-spoonful of the essence of roses, with, a little rose-lake to colour it ; or pound a quarter of a stick of vanilla with one oimce of sugar, boil and strain, add two ounces of sifted sugar, and mix it with the cream ; or press the juice of four ounces of strawberries or ' raspberries, mixed with the sugar, and a little carmine to colour it. Lemon, orange, or any fruit you please may be used in th? same way ; or a small glassful of maraschino or any other liqueur may be added to the sugar to flavour the cream. Whipped Cream, Lemon. Hasp the rind of two large lemons on a piece of sugar, and as the sugar imbibes it scrape it off into a basin with some cream, whip it up, and send it to table. It is improved if set on ice or placed in a refrigerator for some time before sending to table. Orange cream is made in the same way. Whip Sauce, Rich, for Boiled Puddings. Boat the yolks of two eggs in a small basin, and add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar, a small glassful of sherry or of any kind of liqueur, and a few drops of almond, lemon, orange, or vanilla flavouring. Put the basin in a saucepan which contains a small quantity of boilingwater, and whisk the sauce over the fire till WHI ( nil ) WHI it looks Kke frothed cream. Pour it over the pudding, and serve. Whipped Syllabubs. Mix a quarter of a pint of sherry with two table-spoonfuls of brandy, stix- the mixture into half a pint of thick cream, and add a little grated nutmeg, the strained juice of half a lemon, and as much sugar as will sweeten the syllabub pleasantly. Put the cream into glasses, pile whipped cream upon the sm-face, and serve. Sufficient to fill eight glasses. Probable cost. Is. without the sherry and brandy. Time, one hour or more to whip the cream. Whips. Take some small custard-glasses, half fill them with crumbled macaroons, ratafias, and sponge biscuits in equal proportions, pour upon them a little sherry mixed with a table-spoonful of brandy, spread a thin layer of raspberry jam upon them, and cover with custard. HeajD some whipped cream on the top of the glasses, and serve. Whisky Apples, for Dessert. Take some large sound sweet apples, pare and core them without dividing the fruit. Weigh them, and put them into a preserving-pan with half a quarter of a pint of whisky, the thin rind and strained juice of a lemon, one inch and a half of stick cinnamon, half an inch of stick vanilla, a piece of whole ginger the size of a bean, two cloves, and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of apples. Simmer as gently as possible, and turn them over frequently tin they are tender and quite clear. Take them up carefully, and put them into glazed jars. Strain the syrujj, boil quickly for five minutes, and pour it over the fruit. Tie bladder over the jars, and store the fruit in a cool dry place. It will keep for a year or more. American Newton pippins are the best for this purpose. Time to simmer the apples, about an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 3d. for each pound of apples. Sufficient for a dessert dish. Whisky, Apples Stewed in [see Apples Stewed in Whisky). Whisky Cordial. This cordial should be made when white currants are in season. Take the thin rind of a large fresh lemon entirely free from the white bitter part. Put it into a jar with haH a pint of ripe white cirrrants stripped from the stalks and a piece of whole ginger the size of a bean. Pour over the ingredients a quart of whisky, and let them infuse for twenty-four hours. Strain the liquor, sweeten with half a pound of loaf sugar, let it stand twelve hours longer, and bottle for use. Cork securely. Time, two days. Whisky Punch. Rub three or four large lumps of sugar upon the rind of three lemons till the yellow part is taken off, and add more sugar to make up the quantity to six ounces. Put the sugar into a bowl, squeeze upon it the juice of two of the lemons, and pour upon it a pint and a half of boiling water. Stir the mixture till the sugar is dissolved. Add a pint of whisky, and the punch will be ready for serving. Whisky Punch (another way). AVhisky, when it can bo obtained genuine, is perhaps the purest spirit of any, and the least noxious w hen taken in large quantities. The sugar is first dissolved in bollhig water, and the spirit added either in a tumbler or jug, and that is the general process. Some prefer a little lemon, in which case the sugar should bo rubbed on the rind, and the juice added in making the syrup. It is also a coromon practice to add a spoonful of raspberry jam, which gives a pleasant taste to the beverage. Whisky Punch (another way). See Punch, Whisky. Whisky Shrub. Boil five pounds of moist sugar to a syrup with a pint of water. Add the strained juice of four pounds of lemons and one pound of Seville oranges. Stir the liquor, and when it is quite cold add half a pint of porter and a gallon of pine whislcy. Pour the mixture into a jar, cork closely, and shake it each day for seven days. Put it into a cool closet, and leave it for five weeks ; then bottle, and store for use. White and Clear Soup, Quenelles for [see Quenelles for White and Clear Soup). Whitebait. This favourite fish, so highly esteemed by epicures, belongs especially to London, being found in the Thames as far as Blackwall. Great differences exist as to its parentage, many supposing that it is the fi'y either of the shad, the sprat, or the smelt, and others declaring that it is a distinct species of heiTing. Perhaps the most general opinion is that it is the fry of the common herring. It is a small silvery -looking fish, from about an inch in length. It first makes its appearance in larch, and is to be had in perfection in 3Iay, June, and July. It should bo procured perfectly fresh and in an unbroken condition. If not to be used immediately, it should be put into iced water as soon as it is brought in. It is served either fried or devilled with cayenne, lemons cut into quarters, and brown bread and butter. It requires no sauce. The fry of various species of fish are treated as whitebait, and if not too large are passable. WHI ( 1112 ) WHI Whitebait,Devilled. Fiy the whitebait in the usual way till it is crisp. Lift the basket out of the fat, shake the fish, and sprinkle over it a little salt and black pepper. Plunge the bask(;t again into the fat, and let it remain for a few seconds. Drain the fish, and tui-n it upon a napkin. If a red devil is required, sprinlcle a little cayenne upon the fish (in addition to the black pepper already used) after it is taken out of the fat for the last time. It is a common practice with cooks to take whitebait which has been fried and served in the ordinary way, to .sprinkle black pepper upon it, to plunge it into the hot fat, and, after allowing it to remain for a short time to drain it, sprinkle it again with pepper, and serve a second time as deviUed whitebait. Whitebait, Dressed. Take the whitebait out of the water with the fingers, di-ain them, and throw them into a cloth upon which flour has been strewn. Shake them in the cloth to make the flour adhere to them, then toss them in a large wide sieve to free them from the superfluous flour. If the fish stick together, separate them, but they will not do this if they are fresh. Have ready plenty of boiling beef-fat (this is much better than lard, which is usually recommended), put the whitebait a few at a time into a wire basket, plunge in the boiling fat, and leave them for about three minutes. At the end of that time shake them to kcej) them from sticlcing together, and when they are slightly crisp without being browned they are done enough. Drain them from the fat while they are still in the basket, sprinkle a little salt upon them, pile them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve very hot. Send quarters of lemon and brown broad and butter to table with them. Time to fry the whitebait, four to five minutes. Whitebait, Mock. Take cooked or uncooked white fish of any kind ; uncooked fish is of course the best. Divide it into strips an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide. Dip these into frying batter, put them into a wire fryingbasket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Let them remain till they are lightly browned. Drain them, pile on a hot dish, and serve with cayenne, quarters of lemons, and thin bro m bread and butter. The frj-ing batter may be made by beating together briskly and thoroughly a table-spoonful of flour, a jiinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of millc, and one egg. Flour varies in quality, so that some kinds require more liquid than others. The batter, however, shoidd be a little thicker than cream. Time to fry the fish, four to five minutes. White Bean {see White Kidney Beans). White Bechamel Sauce, Cold (to mask boiled poultry, turbot, &c., which is to be served cold) . Make the bechamel of nicelyflavoured white stock, so strong that it will jelly when cold. A spoonful of gelatine dissolved in a little white stock will answer the purpose if jellied stock is not at hand. ]\Iix with it when hot an equal quantity of milk or cream, strain it into a basin, thicken with arrowroot, and when cold it will be fit for use. It should be thick enough to adhere to the bird, &c., which it is to mask. White Bechamel Sauce (economical and good). Good bechamel may be made of the remains of a cold roast fowl. Break up the bones, and put them into a saucepan with two or three bacon-bones, a small carrot, a small onion, a very small piece of mace, two peppercorns, and a pinch of salt. Pour over the ingredients as much water as will entirely cover them, and simmer gently for two hours. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Half an hour before the stock is taken from the fire, stir into it a tea-spoonful of gelatine which has been soaked for half an hour in two table-spoonfuls of water. Strain the stock into a bowl, and when it is cold remove the fat from the surface. Put it into a clean saucepan, and simmer till it is reduced to about three-quarters of a pint. Mix with it an equal quantity of boiling cream or milk, slightly thicken with arrowroot, add salt to taste, and it will be ready for use. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufiicicnt for a pint and a half of white bechamel sauce. White Bechamel Sauce (to make a small quantity). Put two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire briskly with a wooden spoon to a smooth paste. Add gradually threequarters of a pint of milk, together with a small onion, two or three sticks of celery cut up small, half a carrot thinly sliced, half a bayleaf, a very small sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of salt. Stir the sauce over a quick fire till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it into a basin, and it will be fit for use. By increasing the quantities, and preserving the proportions, a larger quantity of sauce may be made if required. Time to boil the sauce, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufiicient for a little more than haK a pint of sauce. White Beet, To Dress the Leaves of. Pick the leaves, and wash them in three or four waters. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted, and keep them boiling quickly till tender. Drain the water thoroughly from them, chop them small, and heat them in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper, and salt. They may be used as a substitute for spinach. Time to boil the leaves, twenty minutes or more. White Cabbage, To Pickle. Take a firm white cabbage ; remove the outer leaves, sprinkle salt upon it, and leave it for a couple of hours. Wash it in cold water, drain it, and cut it into very thin shreds. Make some brine suSiciently strong to float an egg, pour this cold over the shred cabbage, and leave it for a fortnight. Stir every day. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely cover it for five minutes with spices in the proportion of a quarter of an ounce of whole ginger, a quarter of an ounce of black pejiper, a quarter of an ounce of long pepjjer, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of turmeric mixed smoothly with a little cold vinegaPi a tea-spoonful of mustard WHI ( 1113) WHI seed, and a piece of alum the size of a pea to each pint of vinegar. A clove of garlic may be added if liked. Skim the vinegar, and pour it hot over the cahbage. Let it remain three days. Drain off the vinegar, boil it, and again pour it hot over the cabbage. Put the cabbage into bottles or unglazed jars, divide the spices equally amongst these, and cover the pickle entirely with the vinegar. Add more vinegar (which has been boiled and allowed to go cold) as required. Time, eighteen days. White Cake. Beat one pound of fresh butter to cream. Work in gradually one pound of powdered white sugar, one pound of dried flour, a dessert-spoonful each of candied orange and lemon-peel chopped small, an ounce of caraway-seeds, half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pint of cream, five well-beaten eggs, a small glassful of brandy, and a little rose or orange -flower water. Beat the cake well between every addition. IMix with it a tablespoonful of fresh yeast, ?over with a cloth, and put it on the hearth to rise. When sufficiently risen, put it into a weU-buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. As soon as it is done enough, brush over with the beaten white of an egg, sprinkle powdered white sugar over it, and put it in a cool oven for a short time till the glazing is hard. Time to let the cake rise, about half an hour. Probable cost, esclusive of the brandy, 3s. 4d. White Cake (another way : sometimes called one, two, three, four cake). Take a cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, and four eggs. Beat the butter to cream, and add the sugar, the floui-, and lastly the eggs. Flavour the mixture with grated nutmeg or lemon-rind. Dredge flour upon the table, and roll out the cake to the thickness of the third of an inch. Put the cakes on bakingsheets, prick them lightly with a fork, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake the cake, about a quarter of an hour. White Cake, American {see American White Cake). White Cakes (simple recipe). Rub an ounce of butter into half a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a small pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, haK a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds, one e g, and as much milk as wUl make a smooth light paste. Roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into shapes, and bake these on baking-tins in a quick oven. Time to bake the cakes, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity. White Cup Cakes. Take as much fresh butter as will fiU one cup, as much powdered white sugar as will fiU two cups, and as much flour as will fill three cups. Beat the butter to ?cream, add the powdered sugar and the flour. ?Whisk the whites of eight eggs to froth, and add them gradually to the mixture, together with a table-spoonful of powdered saleratus ?dissolved in a little hot water, a table-spoonful of rose water, and as much milk or cream as will make the batter of the consistency of poundcake batter. Butter some small tins, three parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. The yolks of the eggs may 76 of course be used for other purposes. Time to bake the cakes, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. White Fish and Sauce. Take three pints of veal stock ; put it into a saucepan with the heads and fins of five haddocks, four onions, a bunch of parsley, three inches of thin lemonrind, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the liquor for an hour, strain it, and put with it a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon -juice and a large wine-glassful of Light wine, llince the tiesh of a lobster or crab. Thicken the sauce with a little white thickening, skim carefull} add a little cream and, if Uked, the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and stir the mince into it. Boil the haddocks, put them on a dish, garnish with forcemeat balls, and pour the sauce over them. The forcemeat may be made as follows : Tear the flesh of a small boiled haddock into flakes. Mix with it an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, and add a small proportion of chopped parsley. Rub a little butter into the mixture, and season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind it together with egg, form it into balls, and fry these in hot fat to a light brown colour. Time, altogether, two hours. White Kidney Bean. The haricot blanc, or white kidney bean, deserves to be introduced more generally into our kitchens. There are various methods of dressing these beans, but the best is to have them softened in the gravy of a leg of mutton ; they are then a good substitute for potatoes. They are nearly as good dressed with oil or butter, and Napoleon was exceedingly fond of them dressed as a salad. Of course we allude here to the bean which, in full maturity, is taken from the pod, and eaten in winter. In England we eat the pod itself (in summer) split, and served with roast mutton and venison. The mature bean, however, makes an excellent dish. Br. Doran. White Kidney Beans (a la Lyonnaise). Cut a few onions into dice, and fry them in a little butter tiU they are of a lightbrown colour; then add two spoonfuls of Spanish sauce. Let the onions be well done ; season them with pepper and salt ; drain the beans that have been done as above, then throw them into the sauce, and serve up hot. If you have no Spanish sauce, when you have fried the onions, add a spoonful of fine flour, and moisten with good gravy, or broth, and a little glaze; then boil very well, and put the beans in as directed. This manner is for entremets, -ind they are dressed the same to put under a leg of mutton roasted, or a quarter of mutton a la Lyonnaise. JJde. White Kidney Beans (a la Maitre d' Hotel. White beans, when fresh, must be put into boiling water ; but if dry, they must be soaked for an hour in cold water before being boiled. Then boil them in cold water, and replenish with cold water also, which makes the rind or coat tender. "White beans must be well done before being dressed a la maitre d'hotel, which is done as follows : Put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley chopped very fine, and some pepper and salt, over which lay the beans WHI ( 1114 ) WHI well drained. Keep moving the stewpan, ?without using a spoon, for fear of breaking the beans. Then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve quite hot. Tide. White Kidney Beans, Pur e of. The beans, which must be boiled beforehand, are to be mixed with the following preparation : Chop some onions, fry them lightly in a little butter, put a little flour to fry in the butter, and when done moisten with a spoonful or two of broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done. Next let the beans boil in the sauce for half an hour, season well, without pepper, and strain through a tamis. Reduce the puree over a brisk fire, skim off the white scum, and before serving refine the puree with a bit of very fresh butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This dish is to be garnished with fried crusts of bread all round. The same method is used to make the soup a la puree d'haricot, only put some strong consonmae in it, and keep the puree quite clear. Serve with the soup some crumbs of bread cut in small squares and fried brown in butter. White Kidney Beans, Pur6e of (another way). New white beans should be used for making a puree. If fresh, put them into boiling water; if dry, into cold water, adding a little butter in either case, to make the skin more mellow. When the beans are done enough, add a handful of salt to season them. Fry in a little butter a few slices of onions. When they are melted, sprinkle them with half a spoonful of flour ; moisten with consomme, and season with a little pepper and salt ; skim off the grease. When the flour is done, mix it well with the beans, let them boil a quarter of an hour, and squeeze them well before rubbing them through a tamis. Let the puree be rather limpid, as it is liable to thicken when on the fire. A short time before serving mix a small piece of butter with the puree. White Pot, Devonshire {see Devonshire White Pot). White Puddings. White puddings are frequently made with the white part (otherwise the frill or f raise) of a calf's pluck boiled and minced, and mixed with an equal weight of boiled bacon, soaked bread-crumbs, and sausage meat, seasoned with salt and pepper, flavoured with boiled onion and sjDices, and bound together with yolk of egg. The puddings thus made will not keep. They should be put into well-cleaned sausage-skins, and baked in the oven or broiled over a clear fire, and served very hot. Before being used the calf's frill should be thrown into cold water, and kept there till wanted. It should be boiled in salt and water, and cooled before being minced for the pudding. White Puddings (another way). Take the fry of a small freshly -killed pig, with half a pound of fresh pork and half a pound of the inner fat of the pig. Mince all finely together, and mix thoroughly with a handful of fresh parsley leaves, two sage leaves, a sprig of chervil, and a moderate-sized onion, all chopped smaE. Take three ounces of the stale crumb of bread, grate finely, and boil it to a pulp in half a pint of milk ; beat it with a wooden spoon, and add a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of diy mustard, as much grated nutmeg as wiU lie on a thi-eepenny-piece, a pinch of powdered mace, a pinch of powdered coriander-seed, and a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. "Wlien the seasoning ingi-edients are thoroughly mixed with the boiled bread, stir in the minced meat, and bind the mixture together with the weUbeaten yolks of two and the white of one egg. A small piece of garlic may be added to the other ingredients, if the flavour is not objected to; and work in one ounce and a half of dried flour. Three-parts fill some well-prepared pigs' skins with the mixture, and tie them firmly in links about six inches in length. Be careful to leave room for the mixtui-e to swell. Put them into warm water, let them boil, then simmer gently for two hours. As they swell prick them with a needle to let out the aii'. Hang them in a cool situation. When wanted, cover with buttered paper and broil the puddings over a clear fire ; remove the paper, and serve verj'- hot. Time to broil the puddings, about twenty-five minutes. White Puddings (another way). Cut half a pound of the flesh of a cold roast fowl into slices, then mince it finely, and mix with it four ounces of the inner fat of the pig also minced. Boil quarter of a pint of breadcrumbs in half a pint of milk till it forms a thick paste; skin and chop small one large onion, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in the onion and the minced meat, cover the stewpan closely, and let its contents stew gently till the onions are tender ; add the soaked bread-crumbs, season the mixture with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind together with the yolks of three eggs ; stir the mixture over the fire briskly for five minutes. Clean some skins thoroughly, three-parts fill them with the mixtiire, tie them firmly in links about six inches in length, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of water, hot but not boiling ; bring the water to the boil, then simmer the puddings for ten minutes. Drain them, and hang them in a cool situation till wanted. Before using them, cover with buttered paper, and broil over a clear fire ; serve very hot on a dish covered with a napkin. If more convenient, the flesh of roast pheasants, partridges, hares, or veal, may be used instead of roast fowl. Time, about twenty-five minutes to broil the puddings. White Puddings (another way). Take eight ounces of beef suet, eight ounces of oatmeal, one ounce and a half of onion shred very small, an eighth of an ounce of salt, an eighth of an ounce of ground black pepper ; mix these ingredients thoroughly without water, and tie hard up in a cloth. Boil for an hour and a half slowly in an open goblet, keeping it always under water, which must be boiling when the pudding is put in. White Puddings, Sweet. Shred finely half a pound of fresh pork kidney fat, put it into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt, four ounces of flour, four ounces of powdered WHI ( 1115 ) WHI white sitgar, four ounces of currants cleaned and picked, two ounces of ground rice, a tablespoonful of candied lemon-peel, and the same quantity of candied orange-peel, both chopped small, an ounce of sweet and four bitter almonds blanched and chopped, and a little grated nutmeg. jMix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten with a quarter of a pint of new mUk, and bind the mixture together -with two wellwhisked eggs. Beat the pudding with a wooden spoon for twenty miautes, put it into wellcleaned skins, and be careful to leave room for the mixtiu-e to swell. Tie the ends securely, put the puddings into boiling water, and boil gently until done enough. Before serving them remove the skins. If Hked, the puddings may be put aside and kept for a while before being used. They must then be hung separately in a cool situation, and boiled for a short time, to heat them, before serving. Time to boil the puddings, about two hours and a half; when boiled the second time, a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. White Roux. Dissolve a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan over a slow fire ; skim it thoroughly, and pour the pure oily part into a clean saucepan, leaving behind the thick curd at the bottom. Stir into it very gradually one pound of well-dried flour, and stir it over a very gentle fire till it is thoroughly baked but not at all browned. The more slowly it is done the better, but care must be taken that it does not acquire the least colour. Put it into a small jar for use ; it will keep for some time. Sufficient, a tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gravy. White Sauce. Take any quantity of white stock [see Stock, White) free from fat and sediment, put it into a saucepan, and when it is warm stir into it a sufficient quantity of white thickening or white roux {see White Roux). Stir it over the fire till it begins to boil, then draw it to the side, and let it simmer very gently till it has thrown up all its grease. Skim frequently and carefully ; when the scum ceases to rise strain the sauce into a basin through a sieve, and it will be fit for use. White Sauce (a French recipe). Take quarter of a pound of butter, put it into a saucepan, stir in a spoonful of flour, add a glassful of water, put it on the fire, and keep stirring. When the sauce boils, take it off, set it on one side, and salt it. Should it be too thick, add a Uttle water ; if too thin, a piece of butter rolled in flour. Just before ser\Tng, beat up the yolks of two or three eggs to stir in ; warm the sauce, but take care not to let it boil ; then put in a dash of vinegar. White Sauce, Celery with {see Celery with White Sauce). White Sauce, Cucumber {see Cucumber White Sauce). White Sauce, Economical. Beat two ounces of flour and an ounce of butter to a smooth paste in a saucepan over the fire. Add gradually a pint of milk and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, strain through a poiated strainer, and it will be ready for use. White Sauce, Eggs and {see Eggs and White Sauce). White Sauce for Boiled Chicken {see Chicken, AVhite Sauce for Boiled). White Sauce for Pish. Slince two anchovies, and put them into a delicately clean saucepan with a glassful of light wiue, a glassful of vinegar, and an onion stuck with one clove. Simmer all gently together till the anchovies are dissolved, then straia the liquor. Mix a dessert - spoonful of flour smoothly with a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan ; add the strained liquor and a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for a few miautes tiU it thickens, but do not let it boil. Serve in a tureen. Or mix half an ounce of butter in a saucepan with an ounce of flour ; stir ia half a pint of cream or milk, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute or two, and serve. White Sauce for Pike {see Pike, White Sauce for). White Sauce for Turkey or Fowl. Take the head, neck, heart, and feet of the birds, wash them thoroughly in hot water, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a slice of lean veal, two sprigs of parsley, a spig of thyme, a square inch of thin lemon-rind, a blade of mace, three peppercorns, and a quart of cold water. Cover closely, and simmer gently till the stock is strong and good. Strain the liquor through a napkin laid in a sieve, and when cold free it entirely from fat. Put a tumblerful into a saucepan, and let it boil. Stir into it a table-spoonful of flour which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, and add more milk or cream to make it equal the measui-e of the stock. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is white and thick, and add pepper and salt if required. If the sauce is to be poured over cold poultry, it should be made thick enough to adhere to the birds : therefore, less stock should be used for the sauce, with a little more flour and cream. When more convenient, the veal may be omitted, and a tea-spoonful of gelatine may be used instead. The liquor in which poultry, veal, or rabbits have been boiled is excellent for making white sauce. Time to simmer the stock, about two hours ; to simmeib' the sauce, a few minutes. Probable cost, 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. White Sauce for Vegetables. Put a pint of stock made from bones into a saucepan with an inch of lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns. Let it simmer for half an hour, then strain it. Mix a tablespoonful of corn-flour smoothly with a little cold milk. Stir this into the stock, and also a little more milk to make up the measure to about three-quarters of a pint. Add pepper and salt if required. Simmer the sauce, stirriag it well, for about five minutes ; pour it out, stir into it a small piece of fresh butter until it is dissolved, and serve. Time, altogether, one hour. xi. WHI ( 1116 ) WHI White Sharp Sauce. Take a little white stock, and flavour it pleasantly with, two or three mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and some young onions. Strain it, thicken with white thickening, and boil till smooth. Stir into it a little tarragon vinegar to flavour it pleasantly, and add salt and cayenne, together with a small proportion of cream, and just before serving stii- into it until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter. When a very rich sauce is required, the weU-beaten yolks of one or two eggs may be added. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Let the sauce cool a little, then stir a table-spoonful of it into the eggs, and add the rest gradually. Stir the sauce over the flre for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boU ; then serve. White Soup. The meats to be used in making stock for white soup are veal, fowls, rabbits, and calf's feet, or cow heel. White soups may be thickened with white roux, rice, ground rice, arrowroot, macaroni, tapioca, vermiceUi, pearl barley, &c., and boiling cream or milk should be added. Half milk and half stock is a good proportion for white soups, and the peculiar seasoning and flavouring must be particularly attended to. It is a good plan to keep a separate stock-pot for the preparation of white soups. White Soup (another way). Take three pints of good white stock entirely free from fat and sediment, put it into a stewpan, and let it heat gently. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste in a marble mortar with a little water to keep them from oiling. Mince and pound with them a slice of dressed veal or fowl, and add a table-spoonful of stale bread-crumbs and a small blade of mace finely powdered. When the mixture is smooth, stir it very gradually into a pint of cream, and add a pint of the stock ; put into it an inch of thin lemon-rind, and simmer over the fire for a few minutes. Stir into it as much of the stock as will make it of the thickness of cream, and simmer the soup gently for half an hour. Eemove the lemon-rind, and serve the soup with toasted sippets. If liked, arro-?Toot, ground rice, or common flour may be used instead of the almonds ; and, when cream cannot be had, new milk mixed with the yolks of eggs may be used instead. The egg should be beaten in the soup tureen ; it should bo mixed with a tablespoonful of the milk, the rest of the milk (boiling) should be added gradually, and the soup poured in. By increasing the quantities and preserving the proportions, a larger quantity of soup may be made. Time to simmer the thickening in the soup, half an hour. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. White Soup (another way). Take two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured white stock, entirely free from fat {see Stock, White, for Soups and Sauces) ; put it into a stewpan, and let it boil up. j\Iix four table-spoonfuls of cornflour to a smooth thin paste with a little cold milk. Stir this into the boihng stock, let it boil, then draw it back, and let it simmer gently, stirring all the time, for seven minutes, the soup with pepper and salt, stir into it a pint of boiling cream or nulk, and serve very hot. Time, with the stock already made, about an hour. Probable cost, if made with cream, and with stock costing Is. per quart, 4s. Sufiicient for ten or twelve persons. White Soup (another way). Take a knuckle of veal, two calf's feet, two anchovies, a slice of ham, two heads of celery, three onions, a few sweet herbs, a few peppercorns, and one ounce of sweet almonds blanched and beat fine. Stew all over a slow fire with the requisite quantity of water, taking off the scum as it rises. Strain the liquor off, and when put upon the fire next day to boil add to it two oimces of vermicelli. Just before it is sent to table, put in half a pint of cream, and give it a gentle boil. White Soup (another way). Into six quarts of water put a knuckle of veal, one large fowl cut into quarters, a pound of lean ham, half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few peppercorns, two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, and three or four heads of celery. Stew all together tiU the soup becomes suflSciently strong, then strain it thi-ough a hair sieve into an earthen pot ; after standing all night, take oflt the fat, and pour the soup clear ofif into a stewpan, and put into it half a pound of almonds beat veiy smooth, boil a short time, and run the soup through a lawn sieve ; then put in a pint of cream and the yolk of an egg. Serve hot. White Soup (a la Eeine). Eoastafowl, pick the flesh from the bones, free it from skin and sinew, mince a poimd of it to a smooth paste, moistening with a quarter of a pint of stock and a slice of fresh butter. Have ready three-quarters of a pound of Carohna rice which has been boiled gently till tender in three pints of white stock. Put it into the mortar, and pound it with the other ingredients. Put the pulp into a stewpan, moisten with two pints of white stock, and rub it through a fine sieve. Heat it again in the stewpan, and when it is quite hot season with pepper and salt, stir into it half a jnnt of boiling cream, and serve immediately. The stock for this soup may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the fowl with a slice of lean veal, a large carrot, a few sticks of celery, and an onion. If liked, a dessert- spoonful of gelatine may be substituted for the veal. Time, altogether, three to four hours. Probable cost, 5s. lOd. for this quantity, supposing the fowl to cost 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. White Soup, Economical. Take a quart of nicely-flavoured stock made from the bones of veal. The liquor in which veal, mutton, or chickens have been boiled will answer excellently for the purpose. Before being used it must be simmered for an hour with the flavouring ingredients mentioned below. Let the stock boil ; then stir into it two table-spoonfuls of corn-flour which has been mixed to a smooth thin paste with a little cold milk. Draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently, Stirling aU the time, for seven -minutes. Season with pepper and salt. Put the yolk of an egg into the soup tureen, beat it WHI ( 1117 ) WHI with a table- spoonful of milk, and stir ia gradually half a pint of boiling milk; add the stock, and serve immediately. When veal bones or cold meat liquor are not at hand, take one pound of the scrag end of a neck of veal, and a slice of thin lean ham, or a piece of bacon-rind which has been scalded and scraped ; put them into a stewpan with a small carrot, a turnip, one large onion, a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and four peppercorns. Pour over the ingredients half a gallon of cold water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then draw it back, and simmer gently till it is strong and good. Strain it, and when cold, free it entirely from fat, and it will be ready for being converted into white soup. Time to simmer the stock, three hours. Probable cost of the scrag end of the neck of veal, 7d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. White Soup, Family. Take four pounds of the knuckle of veal and one pound of lean ham, put them into a stewpan, pour over them three quarts of water, and add an onion stuck with a clove, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, a small blade of mace, the thin rind of a quarter of a small lemon, and eight peppercorns. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, and simmer gently till the meat is tender. Take up the veal, and serve it separately with jj'ii'sl y sauce. Strain the liquor, and when cold, free it entirely from fat. When it is wanted, put it into a stewpan and let it boil; mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot to a smooth paste with three tablespoonfuls of cream, add half a pint of new milk, and stir this into the soup. Let it simmer for ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and serve immediately. Time, two hours to stew the veal. Probable cost of veal, 5d. or 6d. per poimd. Sufficient soup for ten or twelve persons. White Soup, Portable. Procure as fiae a leg of veal as can be got, remove the whole of the sMn and fat, chop in pieces two dozen fowls' feet, wash them well, put them into a large iron kettle vith three gallons of water, stew until the meat is tender enough to separate, cover down close, and stew for eight hours ; take a tea-cup and fill it with the soup ; set it where it can quickly cool. If when cold it is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain through a sieve and remove all the fat, pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a stewpan with boiling water until they are like glue ; let them cool, and when nearly cold run a ring round them and turn them on a piece of new flannel; it will draw all the moisture out of them : turn them in seven hours, and continue until they are quite hard. Put them in tin canisters in a dry place. AVhen any is required, cut a piece about the size of a walnut, pour a pint of boiling water upon it, stir until the soup is dissolved, season with salt ; it will make a basin of strong broth. If for soup, steep some vermicelli in water, boil it, then to one cake of the soup pour one pint of water. If two quarts or four pints of soup are required, take four cakes of the soup, and when melted, set it over the fire and simmer, pour it into a soup-tureen, add thin slices of bread very lightly toasted, and upon them the vermiceUi ; season to taste. White Stock for Sauces and Soups (to make a lai-ge quantity) . Take a large stewpan perfectly tixmed, butter it well, and line the bottom with thin slices of lean ham. Lay upon these some lean veal cut into piecesabout two inches square, and also any bones and trimmings of veal or poultry there may be ; an old hen will be a valuable addition. Pour in as much stock as wUl cover the meat, cover the stewpan, and boil the liquor quickly till it is of the consistency of gum. Draw it back before it can acquire any colour, and fill the stewpan with common stock. Add a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two onions, each stuck with three cloves, half a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns. Simmer the stock gently, carefully removing the scum as it rises, for about two hours, strain through a sieve, and put it aside tUl cold. Remove the fat from the top, and pour the liquor off free from sediment before using it. When fiUing up the stewpan it should be remembered that a quart of stock should be allowed for each pound of veal and fowl combined. White Wine Jelly (Calf's-foot Stock). Take one quart of cold calf's-foot stock entirely free from fat and sediment, and measured whilst hot. Put it into a saucepan with the thin rind of a small fresh lemon, the strained juice of two lemons, six ounces of roughly-pounded sugar, and the well-whisked whites and crushed shells of two fresh eggs. Mix all well together; then put the saucepan on a gentle fire, and bring its contents gradually to the boil, and after it begins to heat be careful that it is not stii-red or shaken at all. Let it boil very gently and without ceasing for twenty minutes, lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for twenty minutes. Wring a jelly-bag out of boiling water, pour the contents of the saucepan into it, and without squeezing the bag let the liquor run through it. If it is not clear, pour it thi'ough a second and even a third time ; but this should not be done unless it is necessary, as it wastes the jelly. When it is quite clear, stir into it from a quarter to three-quarters of a pint of white wine, according to taste. Pour the jeUy into moulds which have been soaked in cold water, and let it stand in a cool place tiU stiff. If the jelly is to be served in glasses, pour it into a shallow dish, and when cold, take it up with a dessert-spoon and put it into the glasses. If the calf's-foot stock is not very firm, or if the weather is warm, soak from a quarter to half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass in two tablespoonfuls of cold water for an hour. Stir into this a cupful of boiling water, and add the liquor to the calf's-foot stock. Time to boil the jelly, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and without isinglass, Is. 8d. Sufficient for a quart of jelly. White Wine Jelly made with Isinglass or Gelatine. Soak an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in as much cold water as wiU cover it for an hour. Pour upon it three WHI ( 1118 WHI quarters of a pint of boiling water, and stir it until dissolved. Let it get cold ; then add as much white wine as will make up the quantity to one quart. Sherry or marsala wine may be used, or a mixture of sherry and good raisin wine. Put it cold into a delicately clean saucepan with the thin liind and strained juice of two fresh lemons, a quarter of a pound of roughlypowdered sugar, and the well-whisked whites and crushed shells of two eggs. Beat the mixture briskly for a minute or two, put it on the fire, and without stiiTing bring it slowly to the boil. Let it boil gently and without ceasing for a quarter of an hour. Lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for ten minutes. Wring a jelly-bag out of boiling water, pour the contents of the saucepan into it, and let it run through till clear. Be careful not to squeeze the jellybag, as this would make the jelly thick. Pour the jelly into a quart mould or into two pint moulds which have been soaked in cold water, and keep it in a cold place till wanted ; turn it out upon a glass dish, and serve. If it is to be put into glasses, pour it into a shallow dish, let it remain until stiff, and before serving, take it up in a dessert-spoon and put it into the glasses. Time to boil the jelly, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the wine. Sufiicient for a quart of jelly. White Wine Negus. Extract the juice from the peel of a lemon by rubbing loaf sugar upon it, or cut the peel of a lemon very thia and pound it in a mortar ; cut two lemons into thin slices, add four glassfuls of calf's-foot jelly in a liquid state, and smaU quantities of cinnamon, mace, cloves, and allspice. Put the whole into a jug, pour one quart of boiling water upon it, cover the jug closely, let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then add a bottle of boiling white wine ; grate half a nutmeg into it, stir it well together, and sweeten to taste. White Wine Sauce for Sole. First boil a large sole in the white wine. To do this, cleanse and trim the sole, and put it into a shallow fish kettle just large enough to hold it. Skin a small onion, and cut it into dice; sprinkle it over the fish, and add a little salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, and one clove. Pour over the sole as much French white wine as will cover it, and let it boil gently tiU done enough. Strain the liquor, put it into a small saucepan, place it by the side of the fire, and stir into it, gently and gradually, the yolk of an egg. As soon as it begins to thicken, take it from the fire and pour it over the fish. Time to boU the sole, according to size. Whiting. The whiting, when fresh, is an excellent and delicate fish, light, tender, and easy of digestion. It may be caught on different parts of the coast all the year round, but is to be had in perfection during the winter months. It does not keep well. AVhitings are occasionally caught which weigh several pounds, but as a general rule they do not weigh more than a pound and a half. The best whitings in point of flavour are those which are about nine inches long. It is contrary to law to take the fish when it is less than six inches long. Whitings are occasionally boiled, but thej are best when fried or broiled. It is usual before fiying the fish to skin it, and fasten the tails through the eye-holes. Whiting (au Gratin). Butter a bakingdish, and sprinkle over it some grated breadcrumbs and a httle pepper and salt. Moisten these with a glass of white wine, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a teaspoonful of anchovy. Place the whiting in the dish, and strew all about it two tea-spoonfuls of finely-chopped mushrooms, and one of parsley and shallot. Cover the surface of the fish with brown bread-crumbs, and put it in the oven till it is done enough. Take it up carefully with a fish slice, put it on a dish, and serve with the sauce poured over it. If not sufficiently browned, a salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over it for a minute or two. Sometimes the fish is filleted and prepared in this way. Time to bake the fish, half an hour. Probable cost of whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Whiting (au Gratin). Another way. Take two full-sized whitings, empty, scrape, cleanse, and wipe them, then make deep incisions on each side with a sharp knife to the depth of a quarter of an inch. Butter a shallow dish thickly; sprinkle upon it a little pepper and salt and two table-spoonfuls of fine breadraspings. Put in the whitings, sprinkle these with pepper and salt, pour gently over them one to two glassfuls of French light wine, and lay upon the fish two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced mushrooms mixed vsdth a tablespoonful of parsley. Melt an ounce of butter, pour it over the fish, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of bread-raspings on the top, and bake the whitings in the oven. Send a cut lemon only to table with the fish. If it is preferred that the wine should not be used, three or four tablespoonfuls of pale veal gi-avy may be substituted for it. Time to bake the whitings, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Whiting (au Gratin). Another way. After ha-\dng scaled, emptied, and washed the WHI ( 1119 ) WHI whitings, -wipe them clean. Preserve the liver. Take a silver dish if you have one, if not, a baking- pan. Kub the bottom over with butter, and sprinkle it with parsley and mushrooms chopped verj" fine, over which lay the whitings. Then take some rasps of bread that are not burnt, and spi-inklc them over the whitings, with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; then again dust them over with sweet herbs, namely, parsley and mushrooms, chopped very fine. (If shallots are approved of, you may add some.) Next lay small lumps of butter on the whitings ; pour into the dish a glassful or two of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each of the following articles essence of anchovies, cavice, chili, vinegar, Harvey's sauce, &c. and bake in a hot oven. The whitings will be done within a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to size. Serve with lemon-juice and no other sauce. This is a very palatable dish ; if there is too much sauce, reduce it on a stove, as it must be very short, it being called " au gratin" because it is a short sauce. Ude. Whiting (aux Fines Herbes). Clean and sMn the fish, and fasten it with its tail in its mouth. Place it on a dish, season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over it a tea-spoonfiil of mixed sweet herbs in powder. Lay little pieces of butter here and there thickly upon it, cover with another dish, and bake ia a moderatelyheated oven till done enough. Turn it once or twice that it may be equally cooked, and serve with the sauce poured over it. Time to bake the fish, twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. Whiting, Baked. Cut the heads off some full-sized whitings, empty them, and cleanse them perfectlj', opening them for the purpose as little as possible. Dry them, fold them in a cloth, and leave them for a quarter of an hour. Butter a baking-dish, and put them into it backs downwards, that the sauce may cover the thickest part of the flesh. Sprinkle salt and cayenne upon them, and put roimd them half an ounce of butter kneaded with a salt-spoonful of flour, half a tea-spoonful of chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of port, and a small pinch of powdered mace for each fish. Lay a double fold of oiled paper upon the dish, and press it upon the fish. Put them in a gentle oven, and bake till done enough. Take them up carefully with a fish shce, place them on a hot dish, pom- the sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to bake the fish, twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. _ Whiting, Boiled. Whiting plainly boiled is sometimes recommended for invalids, as it is considered light and easy of digestion ; but it is insipid food, and this method of dressing the fish cannot be recommended. Large whiting should be chosen for boiling. Skin the fish, and skewer it with its tail in its mouth. Put it into boiling water slightly salted, clear off the scimi frequently, and simmer the fish till the eyes start and the fiesh will leave the bone. Take it up the moment it is done enough. Drain it, remove the skewer, put the whiting on a hot dish covered with a napkin, garnish with parsley, and send melted butter, anchovy, shrimp, parsley, white, or Dutch sauce to table with it; or, if preferred, merely mix a Kttle fresh butter lightly with the flakes of the fish. Time to boil, from ten to eighteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. Whiting, Broiled. Wash the whiting in salted water, and be careful to preserve the liver, as it is by some considered a delicacy. Dry the fish thoroughly, brush it over with oil, and roll it in flour. Broil it over a clear bright fire. Serve on a hot dish, either with a little piece of butter placed upon the fish, or with melted butter or parsley sauce ; or, better still, with a sauce prepared as follows : Beat the yolk of an egg in a gallipot, and put with it two table-spoonfuls ' of water and two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Put the gallipot into a saucepan, and surround it with boiling water. Place it on the fire, stir briskly for a minute, and add a httle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of flom- which has been kneaded thoroughly into two ounces of butter. Stir the mixture till it thickens, work in with it the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve. The sauce must not boil. Time to broil the fish, six to twelve minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 4d. for a small whiting. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. Whiting, Broiled (another way). Empty the whitings, scale them, but prescribe the hver, which is very delicate. When you have washed and wiped them clean, sHt the back on both sides. Beat the yolk of an egg with a little salt and pepper, and rub some of it over the whitings with a brush. Then dip the fish into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter, and then into criunbs of bread again. Broil them of a fine colour, and serve up. The sauce is to be sent up separately in a boat, whether it is anchovy sauce or melted butter. It is to be sent up separately, for if you were to pour the sauce over the fish, the whiting would not prove palatable, and the sauce would get too thick. Whiting, Buckhorn. In Cornwall, whitings which have been salted and dried are sold under the name of buckhorn. Whiting, Choosing of. Whitings should be procured as fresh as possible. The goodness of the fish may be known by the fiinmess of its flesh, the brightness of its eyes, and the silvery hue of its appearance. Codlmgs and pollacks are frequently sold as whitings. The true whiting may be known by its having no barbel under its chin, by the under jaw being shorter than the upper one, and by its tail being even at the end. In point of flavour, those are the best whitings which are about nine inches long. Whiting, Curried. Take three full-sized whitings. Clean and skin the fish, fillet them neatly, and cut the fillets into pieces about three inches in length. Skin two onions and cut them into dice. Put them into a frjongpan with a little fat, place them on the fire, and turn them about till soft. When they WHI ( 1120 ) WHI have steamed a minute, put with them a sour apple chopped small. E,ub the onion and the apple through a sieve. Place the pulp in a basin, and mix smoothly with it a table-spoonful of curry jiaste or jDowder, a table-spoonful of ground rice, and as much nicely-flavoured stock as will cover the fish. Put the sauce into a stewpan, and when it boils, put into it the fillets of whiting. Let them boil gently tiU done enough. Put them carefully on a dish ; sMm the sauce and pour it over them, and send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. If liked, a little cream may be added to the sauce to enrich it, and if it is not sufliciently acid, a little lemon-juice may be stirred into it. Time, a few minutes to boil the whitings. Probable cost, 23. SuSicient for four or five persons. Whiting, Fillets of. Empty and cleanse the fish, but do not skin them. Pass a knife from the tail to the head, and take off the flesh close to the bone. Divide the fillets into halves crosswise, ti-im them neatly, fold them in a soft cloth, and leave them for awhile that they may be perfectly diied. Season with pepper and salt, sprinkle a little oil and vinegar over them, dip them in beaten white of egg, flour them well, and fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them, press them in white blotting-paper to free them from fat, and place in a circle on a hot dish, and serve with melted butter, or with parsley, anchovy, shrimp, ravigote, piquant, or oyster sauce. The last-named sauce, if mad very thick and white, may be served in the centre of the fiUets. Time to fry the fillets, five minuteg or more. Probable cost of whiting, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one small whiting for each person. Whiting, Fillets of (another way). After having scaled, emptied, and washed the whitings, take up the fiUets. Pare them nicely on both sides without damaging the skin. Cut each fiUet in two pieces of an equal size, and put them into an earthen pan Avith a few stalks of parsley, and a few shallots shredded, some salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; stir the whole in the lemon- juice. Let it steep for about three hours. Then drain the fillets on a clean towel. Next beat the whites of two eggs, so that they may stick to the fillets. Mix some crumbs of bread and flour, dip the fillets into the whites of eggs and in the crumbs of bread and flour, and fry the whole just before they are wanted in very hot dripping, that they may be served up hot with white sharp sauce. Whiting Forcemeat. Skin and fillet two or three whitings, scrape the flesh with a spoon, and rub it through a wire sieve. To twelve ounces of the fish thus prepared put half a pound of panada [see Panada) and sLx ounces of fresh butter. Season the mixture with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, mix the ingredients thoroughly, and add gradually three whole eggs and the yolks of two. Poach a small quantity of the forcemeat to ascertain whether or not it is firm, yet light and delicately flavoured. _ If too stiff", mix a little .cream with it. Keep it on ice till required. Whiting Forcemeat, Boudins of. Prepare some whiting forcemeat according to the instructions already given. Roll out the forcemeat on the table in the form of oval cutlets two inches and a half long, one inch and a half wide, and one and three-quarters of ai* inch thick. Lay these on strips of oiled paper three-quarters of an inch larger than the cutlets. Make a hollow in the centre of each boudin the size of a faithing and three-quarters of an inch deep. Three-parts fill this with shi-imj s, mussels, or oysters, cut into small dice and mixed in some very stiiHy-reduced allemande sauce. Cover the sauce entirely with forcemeat. A quarter of an hour before the boudins are to be served, di-op them carefully into some hot but not boiling water shghtly salted, and simmer gently till the forcemeat is set. Drain them, dish them in a cu'cle on a hot dish, pour over them some allemande or ravigote sauce, and serve. By way of variety, instead of poaching the boudins, brush them over with egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear but not too fierce fire. Dish them in a circle, and serve with clear gravy flavoiu-ed with lemon-juice. Whiting, Fried. Clean, skin, and dry the fish thoroughly in a soft cloth. If they are not perfectly dried, the egg and breadcrumbs will not adhere to them. Turn the tail of each one round and fasten it between the jaws by means of a small skewer. Brush the fish over with lightly-beaten egg, and cover with fine bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour. Fry in plenty of hot fat till they are done through and lightly browned; drain and dry them wcU, and serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Garnish with parsley. Send anchovy or shrimp sauce to table in a tureen. Small fried whitings are frequently used to garnish large flsh, such as turbot and cod. The whiting, if very large, should be split open, crumbed, and fried flat, or they may be filleted, rolled, and fried. Time to fry small whitings, about six minutes. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Whiting, Fried, Economical. Empty, cleanse, scrape, and wipe the whitings without skinning them, and score them on each side to the depth of a quarter of an inch with a sharp knife. Dip the fish in milk, flour it well, and fry it in fat till crisp and lightly browned. Drain it, serve on a hot dish covered with a napkin, and send anchovy, shrimp, or ravigote sauce to table with it. Time, about sis minutes to fry the fish. Whiting, Hot Pie of Fillets of (Careme's recipe). Take the fillets of fifteen small whitings, wash and trim them without taking off' the skins. Season highly with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Spread thmly over them a forcemeat of crayfish, with truffles of mushrooms ; roll up the fillet (beginning at the small end) quite round. When thus prepared, spread some of the same forcemeat at the bottom and sides of the pie; place upon it ten of the fillets upright, which should thus cover the bottom ; pour upon them two spoonfuls of butter scarcely WHI ( 1121 ) WHI melted, and place two more layers of the fillets (ten in each), and pour two or more spoonfuls of butter over them, with two bay-leaves added. Finish the pie in the usual way, and bake it an hour and a quarter; then pour off at the time of ?*serving all the fat, and mask with a ragoilt of carp-roes, crayfish-tails, mushrooms, and artichoke-bottoms, with a tomato sauce or an Espagnole with lemon-juice. Whiting, Paupiettes of. Fillet three or four full-sized whitings. Trim the fillets, season with pepper and salt, and spread upon each a little whiting forcemeat {see Whiting Forcemeat). Roll them round, tie securely with twine, and wrap them in strips of oiled paper. Put them in the oven, and bake until done enough. Remove the paper, place the paupiettes upright on a dish, put upon the top of each a turned mushroom or a bunch of parsley, pour a little lobster sauce round them, and serve. Time to bake the paupiettes, about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Whiting Pollack. This fish is not much prized as an article of food. It is common near the shores of Britain and in the Baltic, and, is usually about the size of a haddock. The flesh is rather coarse. Whiting Pout. The whiting pout, otherwise known as the bib, the brassy, the bleus, and the pout, is an excellent fish, which is not so highly esteemed as it deserves to be, possibly because it may be purchased in the places where it is abundant at a trifling cost. It possesses the singular power of inflating the membrane which cover the eyes and other parts of the head, which, when thus distended, have the appearance of bladders. It is probably from this that it derives its name of pout. It is a deeper and stouter fish than the whiting, and its flesh is firmer, drier, and less delicate. It seldom exceeds twelve inches in length. It should be eaten very fresh, and may be cooked in every way like whiting. It is improved by being salted for twelve hours, and still further improved by being dried in a current of air. To vary the flavour of the fish, slightly smoke it over a wood fire, then broil it. The great Soyer pronounced this fish to be quite equal to the red mullet. Whiting Pudding. Take half a pound of the flesh of cold boiled whiting perfectly freed from skin and bone. Pound it to a smooth paste, soften by working gradually into it four ounces of fresh butter which has been beaten to cream, and add three ounces of baked flour, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with the yolks of four and the well-whisked whites of three eggs. Form the pudding to a bolster shape, roll it in oiled paper, and tie it in a cloth. Fasten both ends securely, and steam it over fast-boiling water. Turn it out carefully, serve on a hot dish, and send good white sauce nicely flavoured with lemon- juice in a tureen to table with it. Time to steam the pudding, one hour. ' 77 Probable cost. Is., without the sauce. Sufficient for fo)ir or five persons. Whiting Quenelles. Prepare some whiting forcemeat, and keep it upon ice till required {see Whiting Forcemeat). Take two spoons of the size it is intended the queneUes should be, and fill one of them with the forcemeat. Dip the other spoon into boiling water, remove the quenelle with it, and put it in a buttered saucepan. Repeat until there are as many queneUes as are desired. Pour over them some stock, and boil them gently tiU firm. Take up the quenelles, put them into a dish, pour a little fish sauce round them, and serve. Time to boil the quenelles, about ten minutes. Whiting, Sauce for. Whitings may be served with plain melted butter, or with shrimp, anchovy, maitre d'hotel, piquant, tomato, ravigote, white, or Dutch sauce. Sometimes they are sent to table with no other accompaniment than a cut lemon. Whiting, Stewed. Skin, cleanse, and fillet three full-sized whitings, trim the fillets neatly, and divide them into halves. Season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and sprinkle over them a pinch of powdered mixed sweet herbs. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put the fish into it, and let them simmer gently for ten minutes. Pour a glass of sherry over them, and add the strained juice of half a lemon. Let them heat three or four minutes. Take them up carefully, put them on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Serve immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the fish. Probable cost, whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Whiting, Wholesomeness of. The whiting is very tender and delicate ; it possesses these qualities in a greater degree than any other fish which our coasts afford. It ia not a very nutritive food, but it produces no stimulating action on the system, and not being oily or viscid is easily digested, and therefore well suited to delicate stomachs, and to patients labouring under various complaints, in which the daily use of even the least exciting meat might prove injurious. Whiting with Gaper Sauce. Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whitings, and score them on both sides to the depth of a quarter of an inch with a sharp knife. Season with pepper and salt, lay them in a buttered baking-dish, and pour over them a large wine-glassful of light wine. Put them in the oven, and bake gently till done enough. Make the third of a pint of melted butter, stir into it the liquor from the fish, and add two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake the fish, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Whiting with Herbs. Take off the heads and tails, and lay the fish in a stewpan rubbed well with butter, with a handful of mixed herbs chopped fine. Sprinkle with melted butter and a glassful of white wine. When "WHI ( 1122 ) WHO half -boiled, turn the fish ; when done enough, take them out. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour to the sauce, let it thicken, and serve the fish upon it with the juice of a lemon. Whiting with Sweet Herbs. Clean, wash, and dry five large whitings, fill the insides with quenelles of whiting, and lay them in a kettle oa a strainer weU buttered; cover them with eight ounces of fresh butter in which you have mingled salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg sufficient for their seasoning. Add two pottles of chopped mushrooms, two spoonfuls of chopijcd parsley, a small shallot chopjjed and blanched, the jxiice of a lemon, and half a pint of chablis wine. Half an hour before serving, make them boU, moistening them from time to time with their liquor; then make them simmer gently with a Little fire above and below. When ready to serve, drain and dish them ; pour their liquor over them, and send to table. Careme. Whiting with White-Wine Sauce. Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whitings, and score them on both sides to the depth of a quarter of an inch with a sharp knife. Season with pepper and salt, and pour over them as much white wine as wiU. cover them. Place them in the oven, and bake gently till done enough. Knead together in a saucepan over the fire an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour. When the paste is quite smooth, moisten with the third of a pint of water, lot it boil, and add the liquor from the baking-dish and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Take it from the fire, stir into it untU dissolved half an ounce of fresh butter, pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake the whitings, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Whole-flour Bread. Brown, composition, or whole-flour bread is made from the ground but undressed wheat, and therefore contains the bran as well as the flour. Some years ago it was suggested that as the bran contained more nitrogenised matter than the flour, the whole meal must be more nutritious than the finer flour alone. But that opinion is now considerably modified, for while it is true that the whole meal (bran and fine flour) contains chemically more nutritive matter than the fine flour alone, yet the gritty particles that are present in the former cause an unnatural irritation in the alimentary canal, and lead to a quicker evacuation of the but partially digested and absorbed food. This explains why brown bread possesses laxative properties, and why labourers fed on it consider that it makes them hungry soon again : they feel that it does not last in the stomach, and consequently think there is little nourishment in it. Whole-flour Bread, to Bake. " This bread," says Miss Acton, " is composed of wheat ground into meal, and used without any portion even the bran being taken from it ; and it is highly recommended by some of the first scientific men of the present day as containing a larger amount of nourishment, and being more easy of digestion than that which ia made with fine flour only, because it is now ascertained that the bran (which was formerly considered as altogether unfit for food) contains in reality more ghitcn, or nutriment of the best kind, than any other part of the com ; and it is stated bja very superior writer that it possesses also a peculiar kind of ferment which has the property of dissolving the bread or floiu: with which it is mixed, and rendering it more easily digestible in the stomach. He adds, ' To this quality of bran, as well as to the nourishment it jields, are to be ascribed some of the wholesome qualities which many persons have recognised in whole-meal bread.' Now it will be seen that very great advantages would attend the general use of the wheat merely reduced by grinding to a proper state for being converted easily into bread, which is more strengthening in its nature than any other, and therefore of more value to those whose toil is heavj' and exhausting ; and which, from its digestible character, is also well suited to persons of sedentarj' habits and to invaHds. In the ordinary processes which the com undergoes in separating its various parts there is always considerable loss, and the consumption of wheat in the country would be materially lessened if the loss were in a great measure avoided by the adoption of whole-meal bread. There would soon be a perceptible diflierence if a firkin of it only were consumed in every family which is at present supplied entirely with that made with fine wheaten flour. After a time it would be preferred by the eaters generally to white bread, and the i oorer classes of the people, who now reject with disdain every form of brown bread, would gradually lose this prejudice against it if they saw it commonly adopted for consumption b}'' the wealthy. To derive from wholemeal bread aU the advantages which it will undoubtedly j-ield, the following points should be observed : The corn should not be damped before it is ground, and it should lie over for some weeks, and be kept very dry after the grinding before it is converted into bread. Quite at first it will be well to mix a certain portion of flour with it for piersons who are not in strong health, or who are imaccustomed to eat brown bread, as it wUl otherwise occasion a little irritation in the stomach for a few days ; but this is easily avoided by using it only in part for a time, and by diminishing at each baking the proportion of flour added to it. In making dough with the whole meal, it will be seen that it absorbs more liquid than flour does, and requires rather more yeast to render it light, or a longer time to rise. It should not be made verj- stiff, or it wiU be too dry after it is baked, yet it should always be workable, and not stick to the hands. If well managed, its flavour wUl be peculiarly sweet and agreeable. It is prepared in precisely the same manner as white bread. Whole meal, one gallon; good flour, one gallon; fresh German yeast, two ounces and a half, or well-washed beer yeast, two table-spoonfuls ; salt, four to six spoonfuls, or one ounce to one and a half ; warm water, or milk and water, full three quarts. To rise from one hour to one hour and a half the first time, or until it is evidently quite light ; the second time about an hour. To be u-ell baked WHO ( 1123 ) WIG in a moderately-heated oven. Or, whole meal, seven pounds ; flour, three jDounds and a half ; solid beer yeast, three large dessert-spoonfuls, or fresh German yeast, nearly two ounces; liquid, rather more than four pints and a quarter; salt as above. Or, whole meal, one gallon ; German yeast, one ounce and a quarter in summer, one ounce and a half in winter, or solid brewer's yeast, three dessert-spoonfuls ; all else as in the foregoing recipe. It is to be observed that about an ounce or a moderatesized table-spoonful of salt to the gallon of flour is sufficient to remove any insipidity of flavourfrom bread, but a larger proportion is liked by many persons. Not only will a smaller quantity of yeast be required in summer than in very cold weather for the fermentation of dough, but the liquid used in making it will require to be less warm than in winter. Experienced breadmakers recommend that it should then be used at blood-heat (98"). Wholesome-fare Pudding. This favourite bread-and-butter pudding may be thus made : Cut some thin slices of bread and butter ; butter a dish, and lay slices all over it. Strew on a few cuiTants picked and washed clean, a little grated nutmeg and cinnamon pounded or in small pieces ; then a row of bread and butter, then a few currants again, %vith the spice as before, and so on, tiU the dish is full. Sweeten some milk according to the size of the dish, and beat up three eggs, a little salt, and a little more nutmeg grated. Mix them all together, pour it over the bread, and bake it. Three rows of bread and butter are sufiicient for a dish of a moderate size, as it swells considerably. Slices of bread and beefsuet chopped fine wiU answer the purpose of bread and butter for a family pudding. Let it stand an hour after the milk has been put to it before it is put into the oven. More eggs may be added, and cream used instead of milk, if it is intended to be very rich. Some people j)ut a little brandy into it. Whortleberry. This berry sometimes goes under the names of windberry, bartleberry, and bilben-y. It grows wild in great abundance upon oui- heathy commons and uncultivated hills. It is also plentiful in the northern parts of Europe. The fruit is seldom brought to market, but it is much relished by some persons in tarts or cream, and made into jellies. There are several varieties of whortleberry; the purple are rather larger than juniper-berries, and are covered with a fine blue or purple bloom, like the bloom of plums. They are seldom cultivated. This little berry makes an excellent jelly, being treated exactly in the same manner as currant jelly, to which, in flavour, it is far superior. It, however, requires a pound and a haK of sugar to each pint of juice. It will keep good two years, and if properly and carefully made be better the second year than the first. Whortleberry Jam (a German recipe). Jloisten the sugar with wine, and boil it well. To four quarts of fruit allow two poucids of sugar and half an ounce of powdered cinnamon. "When the sugar boils in transparent bubbles, throw in the fruit, and keep stirring till it is of a smooth consistency and no more thin juice collects on the top. Sprinkle in the cinnamon just before it is done. Widgeon. The common widgeon is plentiful in Britain during winter. The flesh is good for the table. The American widgeon forms also an esteemed food. It breeds chiefly in the northern parts of America, and is common in winter on the coasts of the United States and in the rice-grounds. Widgeon, Gravy for. Put a quarter of a pint of veal stock into a saucepan with an inch of thin lemon-rind, three leaves of basil, and a thin slice of onion. Let the liquor boil a few minutes, and strain it. Put with it the clear juice of a lemon or of a Seville oi-ange, and add a glassful of jiiort and a little salt and cayerme. Send it to table very hot. Or dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan, stir into it the strained juice of two lemons, and add a little salt and cayenne. Send the gra-\y to table in a tureen and very hot. Many cooks score the breast of the bird deeply, and pour the gravy over it ; but this plan is not to be recommended, because many Dersons prefer widgeon without gravy. Sufiicient for two birds. Widgeon, Gravy for (another way). See Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeons, &c. Widgeon, Hashed. Cut the best parts of the widgeons into neat pieces. Place them on a dish, cover them over, and place them in a cool pantry till wanted. Put the carcases and trimmings of the birds into a small saucepan with the remains of the gi-avy that was served with them, or, failing this, with a httle broth or water. Let them simmer gently till the liquor is strong and good, then rub the gi-avy with the little pieces of meat that have fallen from the bones through a sieve. Add a wine-glassful of sherry to the sauce, and put it back into the saucepan with the pieces that were put aside. Let these heat gently till they are warmed through. Of course they must not be allowed to boil. Arrange them on toast upon a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve. Time, a few minutes to heat the pieces. Widgeon, Boasted. Rub the breast of the widgeon with the liver till it is red. Truss it securely, and put it do-wn before a clear fire. Flour it, and baste frequently till done. Servo on toast in a dish, and send the gravy to table with it. It is generally preferred that a -widgeon should be underdressed. If liked, it may be stuffed with the liver pounded and mixed with a few bread-crumbs, a little pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and bound together with the yolk of an egg. Time to roast the widgeon, a quarter of an hour ; if liked well done, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost. Is. each. Widgeon are -seldom offered for sale. Sufiicient, two for a dish. WiggS. Put half a pint ef warm milk to three-quarters of a pound of fine flour ; mix in it two or three spoonfuls of light yeast. Cover it up, and set it l?efore the fire an hour, in order to make it rise. . Work into it four ounces each of sugar and butter; make it into cakes, or WIL ( 1124 ) WIL " wiggs," with as little flour as possible and a few caraway-seeds, and take them quickly. Wilberforce Pudding. Make batter the same as for a batter pudding. Butter a baking-dish, put in the batter; take some apples, rub them clean with a cloth, take out the stalk and blossom, and do not pare them or take out the cores. Put them in the batter, and bake in a quick oven. If the apples are pared before they are put in the pudding they mash among the batter as soon as they are hot, and make the pudding soft ; but when baked whole the pudding is light, and eats very well. Use butter and sugar for sauce. Wild Boar, This dish is prepared and dressed in the same way as pork. Generally the flesh of the wild boar is cut in fillets or cutlets, or in slices, which are laid in a stewpan with butter, chives, parsley, thyme, basilic. When the slices are half done take them off, and let them steep in their own gravy a day and a night; then fry them, and serve with pickled gherkins. Wild Boar Cutlets. Take the under fillets of a wild boar ; cut them into slices three-quarters of an inch thick and the shape and size of a cutlet. Lay these in an earthen pan, cover, with equal parts of vinegar and white wine, and add a head of garlic and a little salt. Leave them for a couple of hours or longer ; drain, and dry them with a soft cloth. Sprinkle over them a little finelychopped parsley, thyme, and sage, and fry them in butter till done enough. Take them up, and pour a little of the marinade into the saucepan with the butter. When it is quite hot, put the cutlets in a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve garnished with sliced gherkins. If preferred, the cutlets, instead of being fried, may be larded and stewed in a very small quantity of rich gravy glazed, and served with Robert sauce. Time to fry the cutlets, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Wild Boar Ham. Take a ham that has hung for ten days or more, singe off the bristles, wash the ham in lukewarm water, and saw off the bone two inches below the knuckle. Put it in a marinade made of equal parts of vinegar and water, to which has been added a tumblerful of hght wine, a bunch of sage, and a little salt and cayenne. Let it remain for eight days ; drain it, and wipe it dry. Cover with paper that has been soaked in oil, put it down before a clear fire, and baste with the marinade every quarter of an hour. MTien done enough, take off the papej, and remove the rind. Brush the ham over with liquid glaze, and put it in the oven for a short time, or, if preferred, instead of glazing it, cover with bread-raspings. Put a paper frill round the knuckle, place the ham on a dish, and send venison sauce, or sauce made of the marinade boiled with a little good gi'avy and strained, served in a boat. If mere convenient, the rind may be removed from the ham at first, and then it need lie in the marinade three days only. Wild-boar hams arc very good either when dressed fresh or after they have been cured and smoked. Time to roast the ham, about thi'ec hours. Probable cost, uncertain. Wild Boar, Haunch of, with CherrySauce. The following recipe is given by M. Dubois in his " Cosmopolitan Cookery : " " Get a quarter of young wild boar, fresh and without rind ; take out the thigh-bone, and saw off the thin end ; salt, put it in a kitchen basin, pour over a quart of cold cooked " marinade " stock, let it macerate for two oi' three days, drain, wipe it on a cloth, and put it into a deep roasting -pan with lard. Cover it with greased paper, roast it in the oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting often with the fat ; then add a few spoonfuls of its marinade, and cook half an hour longer, basting with its own stock. When done withdraw the roasting-pan from the oven, drain the quarter, and spread on its surface a thick layer of black breadcrumbs rasped, diiod, pounded, sifted, and mixed up with a little sugar and cinnamon, then moistened with red wine, but only just enough to give it a little consistence. Sprinkle over the layer some dry bread-crumbs, baste with the fat of the roasting-pan, into which put the quarter back, and keep it at the entrance of the oven for twenty minutes, basting often. When ready to serve take it up, put a rufiie on the bone, dish up, and serve separately the following siiuce : Cherry sauce. Soak in water two handfuls of black drj* cherries, as commonly sold in Germany that is, with the kernels ; pound them in a mortar, dilute with a glassful of red w-ine, and pour the preparation into a sugar-pan. Add to it a piece of cinnamon, two cloves, a little salt, and a piece of lemon-zest. Let the preparation boil for two minutes, and thicken it with a little diluted potato-flour ; draw the pan on the side of the fire, cover it, keep it there for a quarter of an hour, and pass it afterwards through a sieve. The cooked marinade mentioned above is prepared thus: Fii'st of all some chopped roots and vegetables must be fried with butter, these are moistened with common vinegar, in quantity nearly sufficient to cover the meats intended to be marinaded. When the vegetables are weU saturated, mix WIL ( 1125 ) WIL ?with the liquid a little suit, cloves, peppercorns, and other spices. The marinade should continue cooking at least twenty-five minutes. Sometimes a little water is mixed with the vinegar, in order to mitigate its pungency. Wild Boar's Head.. Under the Norman kings the wild boar's head was considered a noble dish, worthy of the sovereign's table. This, we arc told, was brought to the king's table with the trumpeters sounding their trumpets before it in procession. " For," says HoUnshed, " upon the day of coronation (of young Henry) King Henry II., his father, served him at table, bringing up the bore's head with trumpets afore it, according to the ancient manner." Wild Boar's Head (superlative recipe). Remove the hair, snout, and bones from a boar's head, and take off the ears. Sprinkle a little salt upon it, and put it into a meat pickle for three or four hours. Meantime, take the white part of the flesh of four young rabbits, and an equal weight of tongue, boiled fat bacon, and peeled truffles. Cut all into oneinch dice, and mix thoroughlj-. Take the remainder of the rabbit flesh free from skin and gristle, and make forcemeat of it, by chopping it up with four pounds of veal and four pounds of fat bacon, and seasoning it rather highly. Drain the head, wipe it with a soft cloth, sprinkle mixed spices upon it without salt, and cover with layers of forcemeat, intermixed with the truffles, rabbit, &c. Form the head into shape, wrap it in a cloth, and put it into a stewpan. Pour over it sovde good nicely-flavoured stock to which a bottle of madeira or sherrj' has been added, and let it stew gently till done enough. Take it up, drain it, remove the cloth, wrap the head in a fresh cloth, and, beginning at the snout, bind it round and round with tape. Leave it until quite cold, remove the tape and the cloth, put it in the oven for a minute, and wipe the fat from the surface. Trim the back part of the head neatly. Fasten the ears in their places with small skewers ; they should, meantime, have been boiled separately, but not long enough to cause them to lose their shape. Hide the .skewers with lard and mutton suet, and rub the head aU over till it is black and shiny with a little lard mixed with some verj' clean soot. Cut out a piece of the skin in the shape of a shield between the eyes, cover the place with lard, and decorate it with a crest or a monogram, or even a few flowers. Stick the tusks, remodelled with fat, in their places, and fiU the eyes with white of egg and a little piece of beetroot. Surroimd the head with a wreath of flowers, place it on a dish covered with a napkin, or on a stand, garnish with jelly, and serve. The skin should be removed before the head is carved. Time to boil the head, five hours or more. Probable cost, very uncertain. Wild Boar, To give Pork the Flavour of. steep tlie pork with cloves, garlic, bay-leaf, shallots, juniper-berries, thyme, mint, and vinegar. Wild Duck, PiUets of, with Truffles. Fry the slices of duck in butter till they are lightly browned. Put them into a clean saucepan, pour the sauce over, and add truflles pared and cut into slices. Let them simmer very gently for five minutes, stir a tablesponful of lemon- juice into the gravy, and lot it simmer five minutes longer. Take" the slices of duck up carefully, arrange them neatly on a dish, pour the gravy round them, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about one hour and three-quarters. Probable cost of wild ducks, 4s. to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. Wild Duck, Fillets of, with Truffles (another way). Clean two wild ducks, and cut oft' the flesh from the breasts and sides in neat slices. Put the carcases and giblets of the birds into a saucepan with a thick slice of fresh butter rolled in flour, and add half a dozen mushrooms and two shallots finely minced, the parings of two ounces of truffles, and a little salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Shake the saucepan over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes ; pour into it a quarter of a pint of brown gravy, and let its contents simmer gently for half an hour. Add a large wine-glassful of claret, let it simmer a little longer, and strain it. WILD DUCK. Wnd Duck, Roast. Let the bird be freshly killed. Stuff it with crumb of bread soaked in port or claret. Truss it securely, rub it over with the liver, flour it, put it down to a clear brisk fire, and baste constantly. Let the spit turn very rapidly. When the bird is sufiiciently roasted (and it is generally preferred underdressed) , take it up, put it on a dish, without gravy, -svith an uncut lemon on either side of it, and with wild duck gra\-y in a tureen. The carver will frequently cut a lemon in halves, put salt on one side and cayenne on the other, then score the breast of the duck deeply, squeeze the two lemons together over it, and pour a glassful of port upon it. Time to roast the duck, fifteen to twenty-five minute Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per pair. Wild Ducks. Notwithstanding the slightly fishy flavour of the flesh, wild duck is highly esteemed by epicures. It is trussed like a tame duck, with the feet left on and turned close to the body. It is often said that WIL ( 1126 ) WIL a wild duck should be allowed only to fly tlu-ough a hot kitchen before it is sent to table ; and though this is scarcely the case, still the bird is considered to be in perfection only when it is crisp and brown on the surface, and so much underdone that the gravy flows into the dish when it is cut. The wild duck should be very fresh, should be roasted before a brisk fire on a spit that revolves rapidly, and it should be basted constantly. The duck is to be preferred to the drake, though the latter often fetches the higher price. Wild Ducks (American fashion) . Pluck and draw the ducks, wipe the inside with a cloth, and sprinkle salt and pepper over them inside and out. Fill them with crumb of bread which has been thickly buttered and soaked in hot water till quite soft. Truss them securely, put them down to a clear fire, and baste them for ten minutes with half a pint of sHghtly-salted water in which a sliced onion has been soaked. This is to remove the vmpleasant fishy flavour from the birds. When it has been used, throw the onion water away, and in its place put half a pint of hot water. Baste the birds with a little butter, dredge flour over them, and baste with the water in the pan. When they are done enough, take them up, and serve with gravy which has been made by stewing the giblets, then straining the liquor, thickening it with brown thickening, and stirring into it a table-spoonful of blackcurrant jelly, a glassful of port, and a little salt and cayenne. Time to roast the ducks, twenty to thirty minutes. Wild Ducks, Pniets of. As the breast only of the wild duck is usually eaten at table, the fillets from each side of the breast and the sUces from the sides are frequently cut off after the birds are roasted, and served on toast with orange gravy [see Orange Sauce, for Ducks and Wild Fowls) poured over them. Wlien served in this way the bird is underdressed. Wild Ducks, PUlets of. with Olives or Celery. Roast three or four wild ducks, and cut off the fillets according to the recipe already given. Score the skin, dish the fillets in a circle, and put into the centre either some stewed celery {see Celery, Stewed) or some stoned oKves. Send clear brown gravy to table in a tureen, and serve. Time to roast the ducks, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. per pair. Sufiicient for a dish. Wild Ducks, Fillets of, with Poivrade Sauce. Roast three or iovoc wild ducks, and cut off the fillets according to the recipe already given {see Wild Ducks, Fillets of) . Score the skin, dish the fiUets in a circle, and pour over them a little poivrade sauce. Serve, and send additional sauce to table in a tureen (see Poivrade Sauce) . Time to roast the ducks, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. Wild Ducks, Roasted (Polish fashion). Take two wild ducks, singe them, wash them inwardly, truss, put them in a kitchen basin, pour over a little cooked marinade, and let them macerate for five or six hours. At the end of that time lay them in a roasting-pan with the marinade ; cover them with buttered paper, and cook them, basting often. When half done, add to their cooking-stock two gills of good thick sour cream, and finish cooking gently basting from time to time. Just before serving, draw, divest them of the string, and dish them up. Mis a little gravy with their cooking-stock, reduce the liquid, stu-ring tiU it is thickened Kke a sauce, then pour it over the birds. WUd Fowl (Hunter's fashion). Roast the fowls before a clear fire, baste liberally, and take them up whilst they are still decidedly imderdi-essed. Send them to table very hot with rich brown gTavy in a tureen. Put near the carver a silver dish which can be placed over a spirit lamp. Put into this dish a glassful of cairee, two glassfuls of port, two glassfuls of gravj', the strained juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Mix the sauce thoroughly, cut the fillets from the breast of the fowls, and the slices from the sides; put these into the gravy. Heat the whole over the spirit lamp, and serve very hot. Time, a minute or two to heat the fillets in the sauce. Our American cousins dissolve a little blackcurrant jelly in the sauce thus prepared for wild fowl. Probable cost of wild fowl, very uncertain. Wild Fowl, Fillets of, with Bigarade Sauce. Roast three or four wild fowls, take them up, and cut the flesh oft' each side of the breast and from the sides under the wings. Score the skin, and dish the fillets in a circle with a little bigarade sauce poured over them, and more sent to table in a tureen. This sauce may be made as follows: Take the yellow rind of two oranges without any of the white part, cut it into thin shreds, blanch it in boiling water for two minutes, drain it, and put it into an earthenware jar with the strained juice of the lemons. Add a pinch of cayenne and a tea-cupful of good brown gravy. Put the jar into a saucepan, surround it with boiling water, set it on the fire, and keep the water boiling till the sauce is very hot. Stir it all the time; add a small glassful of port to it, and it will be ready for serving. The wine may be omitted. Time, two minutes to boil the sauce. Wild Fowl, Plucking of. It is rather a tedious affair to dispossess the generality of wild fowl of the closely-adhesive down which is pecuhar to them. The most effectual plan to adopt is to immerse the birds, when divested of their feathers, in scalding water. AUow them to remain therein for about two minutes. Have at hand some finely-powdered resin, and by the application of the hand wiih the use of the latter rubbed over the fowl the whole of the down will be removed. Wild Fowl, Roast. It is an old and true figurative sajring that a wild duck to be properly roasted should only walk through the kitchen, that the widgeon should run gently through, but that the teal should scamper through. All these birds must therefore be very little done. If they are of a kind that is usually impregnated with a fishy flavour, which is most iaveterate when they are not fat, WIL ( 1127 ) WIL they should be soaked in and rubbed with a little tarragon vinegar a few hours prior to being put upon the spit. The sauce for wild fowl is served, not in the dish, but in a tureen. It is thus made Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pint of port wine, the same quantity of meat gravy, two or three shallots, a bit of mace, pepper and salt to your taste, and a dash of cayenne. Let it simmer ten minutes, then squeeze into it the juice of half a lemon, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Wild Fowl, Salmi of. Cut ofE the legs, wings, breast, and rump of the wild goose, duck, widgeon, or teal, and put them by for the salmi. The head, neck, back, and giblets, if they are preserved, constitute the parings. Cut four shallots into several pieces, and put them into a stewpan with a shoe of lean ham, a few bits of carrot, some parsley-roots, a sprig of thj-me and a bay-leaf tied together, a little bit of mace, four grains of allspice, and a bit of butter. Let the whole fry until the ham has become a httle coloured ; then dredge in a third of a spoonful of flour, and continue to fry until the flour is brown ; but be careful that the other ingredients do not burn. Now put in a large glass of red wine and double that quantity of veal gravy, together with the parings of the wild fowl. Season with pepper and salt, and let the whole simmer gently during an hour and a half. Then strain the gravy through a hair-sieve over the meat for the sahni, which must be ready in another stewpan. Stand this near the fire to warm up, but be careful it does not boil ; the least ebullition would be fatal to the dish. Give it a dash of cayenne pepper. When about to dish it up, squeeze in the juiee of half a lemon. Wild Fowl, Sauce for {see Orange Sauce for Ducks and WUd Fowl). Wild Fowl, Sauces for. No. i. Mix the jmce of half a lemon with a glassful of port or ciaret, three shallots sliced, a table-spoonful of Harvey, and a pinch of cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for five minutes, and strain it into a tureen: serve very hot. No. 2. Put into a tureen a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a tablespoonful of ketchup, a glassful of claret, and a pinch of cayenne ; mix thoroughly, and serve. No. 3. Slice three shallots, and put them into a small saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of clear gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and six peppercorns. Simmer the liquor till it is strong and good, strain it, add a little salt, and serve hot or cold. No. 4. Put a tea-cupful of gravy into a saucepan with a shallot or small onion finely minced, an inch of thin lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a pinch of cayenne. Simmer for ten minutes, strain the gravy, add a wine-glassful of port or claret, and serve very hot. A table-spoonful of Har -ey's sauce or of mushroom ketchup may be added if approved. (Sec also Orange Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl.) WUd Fowl, Truffled Saut of. Cut up the raw birds, and put the heads, necks, and giblets into a stewpan with a bit of lean ham, a sheep's melt, four shallots, half a dozen mushrooms chopped fine, the parings of two or three ounces of truffles, a bunch of herbs consisting of parsley-root, one bay-leaf, and a very small sprig of thyme, a little bit of mace, four grains of allspice, and a small lump of butter. Lot these all fry together until the ham is brown ; after whieh pour in haK a pint of port wine and half that quantity of broth. Stew and reduce this during two hours ; then season and strain it. Now put the limbs of the birds into a stewpan with a pretty large lump of fresh butter ; let them fry a short time, and dredge into them half a table-spoonful of fiour. When the meat is seized on all sides, but without being of a deep brown, pour the sauce into it, adding at the same time the truffles cut into slices, the parings of which were put into the sauce. Let the whole simmer very gently during ten minutes, then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve up on a very hot dish. Wilhelm's Cherry Sauce (a German recipe). Having bruised three pints of cherries in a small mortar, boil them with a pint of wine and water; strain them through a sieve, and again boil with lemon-peel, sugar, cinnamon, and bruised cloves. Add a level spoonful of potato-flour or starch previously mixed smooth with a little cold water, and continue stirring till the sauce is made. This sauce is well suited for puddings and cold things. We might have removed the stones and boiled them in their unbroken state, then stirring in peachwater and half a spoonful of potato-flour. Williams's Pudding Sauce (a United States' recipe). Bruise a stick of cinnamon, set it over the fire in a saucepan with just as much water as will cover it ; give it a boil, and then put in a couple of table-spoonfuls of fine sugar pounded, a quarter of a pint of white _f wine, a roll of thinly-pared lemon-peel, and a bay-leaf; boil aU gently together, strain, and send it up hot. Wiltshire Method of Curing Bacon. Cut up a moderate- sized hog, sprinkle salt upon the flitches, and let the blood drain from them for twenty-four hours. Mix thoroughly four pounds of common salt with one pound and a half of brown sugar, one pound and a haK of bay-salt, and six oimces of saltpetre. Rub this mixture into the flitches and turn, and rub them in every part each day for a month. Hang them up to dry ; then smoke them for ten days. Wiltshire Pudding. WTiisk three eggs in a bowl, and mix with them a pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and as much flour as will make a thick batter. Beat the mixture for some minutes, then stir in gently haK a pint of picked red currants and a quarter of a pint of ripe raspberries. If more convenient, the raspberries may be omitted. Tie the pudding in a cloth, and plunge it into fast-boiling water ; keep it boihng quickly till done enough. Turn it out carefully upon a dish, and cut it into slices threequarters of an inch thick. Keep these in their original position. Put a little butter and brown sugar between the slices, and serve the pudding hot with sauce in a tureen. Time to boil the pudding, two hours. Probable cost, lOd. or Is. Suflicient for five or six persons. WIN ( 1128) WIN Windberry. This is another name for the whortleberry (whieh see). Windermere Ketchup. Procure the largest mushrooms, with broad flaps and red gills, gathered before they are discoloured by the sun. Wipe them with a clean cloth, and break them into an earthen pan. Upon every three handfuls of muslirooms put a handful of salt, so as to form layers, until all the mushrooms are in the pan. Stir them well with a stick or a wooden spoon three or four times a day until the mushrooms are dissolved, which process may be hastened by pressing the several lumps. Now throw the whole into a boiler, and set it over a slow fire, when it must simmer until the whole is perfectly liquescent. Strain the hot liquid through a hair-sieve, then boil it gently again with some allspice, peppercorns, horseradish, a few shallots, and two or three bay-leaves. After it has simmered some time, and all the dark scum is taken from it, strain it into a large bottle or jar, which, when the ketchup is quite cold, must be well corked, and a bladder tied over the cork. At the expiration of three months boil it again with a few peppercoras. some fresh allspice, a stick of horseradish, a few more shallots, and two bayleaves. Let it simmer half an hoiu- after it has boiled up, then strain it into small bottles ; when the ketchup is quite cold, cork the bottles, tie a bladder over the corks, and cover the bladder with sealing-wax. It will then keep any length of time. Windmill Pancakes. These are pink pancakes prepared as foUows : Boil a large red beetroot until it is very tender ; then peel it, cut it into thin slices, and pound it to a pulp in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of five eggs, two table-spoonfuls of flour, four of cream, plenty of powdered loaf sugar, half of a nutmeg grated, and a wine-glassful of brandy. Rub the whole into a batter, and fry the pancakes with lard. Serve them up hot, garnished with green sweetmeats. Windsor Bean {see Beans, Broad or Windsor) . Windsor Beans (a la Poulette). Windsor beans are to be served at a good table only when very young and fresh-gathered. Boil them in salt and water. When nearly done drain them, and stew them in a little sauce tournee with a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little savory chopped very fine, and a small lumi of sugar. When the beans are sufficiently reduced, throw in a thickening made of the yolks of two eggs and a little thick cream. Send them up in a short sauce, and properly seasoned. Windsor Beans, Ham with {see Ham with Windsor Beans) . Windsor Beans (preserved in tins). Procure, as a pattern, from an Italian warehouse a tin box, pint size, with its cover. Get as many similar boxes made as will be required. Gather the Windsor beans when they are the size of green peas ; put them into the tins with a tea-spoonful of salt, a sprig of green winter savory, and half a gill of water. Let a tinman solder down the covers ; then put the tins into a large stcwpan. Cover with boiling water, and boil quickly for half an hour. Take them fi-om the tire, and when cold examine them carefully. Solder again any parts that leak, and keej) them in a cool place. When the beans are to be used, open the tin, and turn its contents, liquor and all, into a saucepan with a sprig of parsley and a pinch of powdered white sugar. When the beans are hot, strain off the liquor, put the vegetables into a tureen with a small piece of butter, and serve. Time to boil the beans in the tins, half an hour. Windsor or Broad Beans. These beans are great favourites with many persons, but they are not good unless they are young and freshly gathered. They are in season in July and August. To boil them, first shell them, then put them into slightly-salted and fast-boiling water. When tender, drain them, dish them quickly, and serve with parsley sauce. They are the usual accompaniment to boiled bacon. They should be boiled separately. Two or thi-ee recipes for dressing these beans are given under Beans, Broad or Windsor. Windsor Pancakes {see Pancakes, Windsor). Windsor Pies of Meat, Poultry, or Game. Take a pound of lean undressed mutton from the loin or leg, or an equal quantity of any other kind of meat, poultry, or game. Cut it into dice, season with pepper, salt, chopped mushrooms, finely-shred parsley, and minced shallot, and moisten with good YHYy. Line some patty-pans with pastry, three-parts fill them with the mixture, cover them with pastry, and press the edges securely together. Make a little slit in the centre of each patty, and ornament it. Brush the patties over with egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. WTien done enough, dish them on a napkin, and serve. Time to bake the patties, about twenty minutes. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Windsor Pudding. Pare and core half a dozen baking ajiples, and boil or bake them till quite soft. Beat them to a smooth pulp, and with them an ounce of best Carolina rice boiled in milk till it is tender, an ounce of powdered white sugar, a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and a pinch of grated lemon-rind. Whisk the whites of four eggs to snow, stir them into the pudding mixture, and beat it again till it is very light. Dip a pudding-mould into boiling water, take it out, and whilst it is hot pour the mixture into it ; cover it, put it into a large pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling tiU the white of the egg is firm. Turn it out, and pour round it a custard made with the yolks of the eggs. Serve immediately. Windsor Syllabub. Put a pint of sherry into a china bowl, sweeten it, and flavour with grated nutmeg. Pour upon it a pint and a half of milk, stir briskly, and serve the syllabub frothed. Windsor Veal Pie. Fill a dish vnth alternate layers of lean veal cut in slices half an inch thick and thin slices of loan ham, and season each layer with powdered mace r nd white pepper. Place a dish with a weight over WIIT ( 1129 ) WIN the lueat, and press it for half an hour. Pour upon it as nmeh strong veal gravy that will jelly when cold as will cover it, and add a slice of fresh butter. Cover the dish with good pastry, and bake till done enough. 8ervo cold. Time to bake a moderate-sized jjie, one hour and a half. Probable cost, fiUet of veal, Is. a pound. Wine. The term wine is more strictly and specially applied to express the fermented juice of the gi"ape, although it is generally used to denote that of any sub-acid fruit. The presence of tartar is, perhaps, the circumstance by which the grape is most strongly distinguished from all the other sub-acid fruits that have been applied to the purpose of wine-making. The juice of the grape moreover contains within itself aU the principles essential to vinification, in such a proportion and state of balance as to enable it at once to undergo a regular and complete fermentation, whereas the juices of other fruits require artificial additions for this purpose ; and the scientific application and the adjustment of these means constitute the art of making wines. Wine, Apricot. Take ten gallons of river- water and boil it for haH an hour ; then set it to cool in a clean vessel. Take fortyfive pounds of ripe apricots, cut them into thick slices, and put them with the juice into the water, adding twenty -fi ye pounds of the best loaf sugar. Stir well, cover closely, and leave till the following day ; then boil the fruit and liquid together, stir in the whites of eight eggs well beaten, and take off the scum as it rises. WTien the liquor is clear and the fruit reduced to a pulp, press, strain through a fine sieve into a cooler, add the broken stones, and stir well. Spread good yeast on both sides of a toast, and when the liquor is at the proper warmth work it well two days; strain it through a jelly-bag into the cask, put on the bung lightly, and let it work over, keeping the cask full. When it has done fermenting, add two quarts of French brandy and two ounces of white sugar-candy. Put in the bimg, fasten it well, keep the liquor for twelve months, and then bottle it. It must remain a year or more in bottle, for apricot wine is a very rich wine, and is improved greatly by age. Wine, Beetroot, Red. Bruise six quarts of ripe sloes (the fruit of the black thorn) in a stone mortar, breaking the stones, boil them twenty minutes in two quarts of soft water, strain the liquor, and pour it into a stone jar. Scrub well -w ith a soft brush and wa+h thirty pounds of purple beetroots, but on no account cut or break the skins, and boil them slowly till tender. WTien cold, peel and sUce them into a tub, pour to them the sloe liquor, cover them up, and the following day add the rinds of three lemons and four Seville oranges, and twelve pounds of Smyrna raisins cut in halves. Boil twenty-six pounds of strong moist sugar with nine gallons and a half of soft water three-quarters of an hour, skimming it well, and pour it hot into the tub upon the sliced beetroots, &c. ; stir well, and when lukewarm work it well with eight tablespoonfuls of strong yeast, cover it up, and let it remain three days; then strain tlie liquor, and filter it into your caslc, filling to the bung. Let it work out, and when the fermentation is over, put to the wine six ounces of sugar-candy and a quart of French brandy. Then stop it up for a month, rack it oft', filter the lees, and put all again into the cask with an ounce of the best isinglass dissolved, and two ounces of bitter almonds blanched and slit. Secure the bung, and let the wine stand eighteen months ; then bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it a year longer. This is a nice light wine, and has frequently been introduced as claret. It improves greatly with age. Itobinson. Wine, Birch.. A wine used to be made from the sap of the birch-tree, though now it is scarcely known. The" sap contains so much saccharine matter as to be fermented ; it is to be obtained in the month of March, when it begins to ascend, by boring a hole in each tree, about a foot from the ground, large enough to admit a faucet which is to be inserted. The sap will flow for several days into a vessel placed to receive it, without injury to the tree. Having obtained as much as is necessary, the hole should be stopped vdilx a peg. To a gallon of this sap add a quart of honey or two pounds and a half of sugar, and boil them together, stirring the whole ; add also two ounces of hops for everj' nine gallons, a few cloves, and a rind or two of lemons. Ferment this with yeast, transfer it to the cask, refine with isinglass, and proceed as in making other British wines. In about two months the wine may be bottled, and in two months more it will be fit for use. It will improve by keeping. Wine Biscuits. Dry one pound of flour and sift it, then rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, and add three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, one well-beaten egg, and as much thick cream as will make a stiff" paste. EoU it out very thin, stamp it into shapes with the top of a wine-glass, and bake the biscuits on tins in a well-heated oven. A few currants or caraways may be added if liked. Time to bake the biscuits, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. Wine Biscuits (another way). &?? Ladies' Wine Biscuits. Wine, Bitter. Take a quart each of red and green camomile, and bruise them with a pint of wormwood, all being picked nicely from the stalks ; lay them in a vessel, and add two oimces of camomile flowers, a handful of rosemary, and an ounce of gentian root. Boil fom* gallons of soft water with ten pounds of good loaf sugar, two ounces of ginger bruised, and the whites of four eggs weU beaten, half an hour, skimming till quite clear. Pour the liquor scalding on the herbs, cover up close, and let them infuse for four days. At the end of that time warm a part of the liquor, mix it with the rest, and work it with yeast ; strain it into a small cask, and on fermentation ceasing, add an ounce of dissolved isinglass and a pint of brandy; stop up the bung, and keep it for nine months ; then bottle in pint bottles, seal the corks, and keep for six months longer. WIN ( 1130 ) WIN Wine, Blackberry. To make an excellent strong blackberry wine, proceed as follows : Take forty-five quarts of ripe blackberries well jjicked and pressed, and mix them with ten pounds of good honey and twenty-six pounds of strong bright moist sugar. Boil with twelve gallons of soft water and the whites of twelve eggs well beaten, tiU the liquor is reduced to ten gallons, skimming it till it is perfectly clear. Strain the liquor into a tub, and let it stand till the following day ; then pour it clear of the lees and boil it again for three-quarters of an hour, adding the lees, filtered twice, and two ounces of isinglass dissolved in a quart of water. Skim well, and put in two ounces of Jamaica pepper, two ounces of cloves, and two ounces of best ginger, all bruised and tied loosely in a piece of muslin. Put into yoirr cooler the thin rinds of six Seville oranges, and a pint of lemon- juice; strain the liquor upon them, stir well, and when cool enough work it with a pint of fresh yeast stii'red well into a gallon of the liquor. Cover close, and let it v ork for four or five days, removing the top scum and stirring twice daily; then strain, and filter it into the cask, put in the bung tightly, keep the cask well filled up, and when it has ceased fermenting, let a day elapse, and ?add two quarts of French brandy and an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in a little water and mixed with a gallon of the wine, ten minutes, an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and slit, and six ounces of sugar-candy broken small. Secure the bimg, paste strong white paper or coarse linen over it, and place plenty of sand over all, wetted a little. Kee]) the wine in a cool cellar for two years, then bottle it, for it is certain to be fine, by means of the filterings, which are quite necessary to this as well as to aU raspberry and elder wine. Seal the corks, and keep it in the bottles before using for two years. If allowed to lie for a longer time it win still improve, and will be found a beautiful wine. Wine Browning for Flavouring and. Colouring Gravies. Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a small saucepan, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. As soon as it begins to colour draw it to the side, and stir into it very gTaduaUy a pint of good port. Pour it into a fresh saucepan, and put with it six cloves, twelve peppercorns, three minced shallots, one blade of mace, one inch of stick cinnamon, the thin rind of a lemon, a wine-glassful of mushroom ketchup, and a little salt. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire for ten minutes, strain it into a basin, let it get cold, skim it, and bottle for use. Time, ten minutes to simmer the sauce. Sufficient, a few di-ops will pleasantly flavour and colour half a pint of gi-avy. Wine Cakes (a Danish recipe). Take three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of sugar, and a gill of white wine; naix these ingredients with the yolks of two eggs, knead all well, and roll it out. Cut with a glass into smixU cakes ; brush these over with white of egg, strew them with sugar-almonds or pounded cinnamon, and bake of a light colour. Wine Caudel. Beat with a whisk the wliite of one egg and the yolks of eight. Stir into it a bottle of white wine, a pint ?f water, the peel of a lemon, and half a pound of lump sugar. Set the mixture on the fire, and keep stirring it. Remove it as soon as it boils. Pour the caudel into a bowl or small glasses. It should be eaten with sweet biscuit. Wine, Cherry (a French recipe). Bruise together fifteen pounds of cherries not quite ripe, and two of currants ; add two-thirds of the cherry kernels. Put the whole in a small cask with a quarter of a pound of sugar to each quart of juice. Let the cask stand in sand, and cover the bung tightly while it is working, which will occupy nearly three weeks. The cask should be of the size just to hold the juice, or the latter must be made up in the above proportions to the size of the cask, as it is necessary it should be full. Carry on the fermentation in the usual manner as in grape or gooseberry wine. When the fennentation is over, bung up the cask, and in about two months the wine wiU be fit to be drawn off and bottled. Wine, Cherry, Red. Take some ripe red cherries, press them, breaking the stones amongst the fruit, till you have obtained ten gallons of pm-e juice. Add twenty-four pounds of strong bright moist sugar, stir well, and let the liquor and three days covered up, stirring twice everjiiay. Press the fruit in a horse-hair bag, and add the result to the juice ; then mix well, and strain into a sweet cask, adding five pints of French brandy, the rinds of six lemons pared very thin, and an ounce of the best isinglass dissolved in a little water. Secure the bung tightly, and let the wine stand for six months in a cool cellar ; then rack it off, filter the lees perfectly fine, and put aU into the same cask again with three ounces of sugar-candy broken in large pieces. Fasten the bung as before, keep the wine eighteen months, and then bottle it. This excellent wine deserves keeping till it is very old. A rich light cherry wine may be made as follows : Take all Idnds of ripe cherries, and bruise them in a tub till you have extracted eight gallons of juice ; add sixteen pounds of good moist sugar, and set the liquor aside for three days covered closely up. Put two gallons of soft water upon the fruit, stir well for twenty minutes, and infuse for the same length of time. Then pare the rinds off four Seville oranges and three lemons pare them very thin stone and slired four pounds of SmjTna raisins, put them into a sweet ten-gallon cask with the juice of the oranges and lemons strained, and six ounces of sugar-candy. Mix the liquors in the two vessels, and strain well ; then filter through a flannel bag, and fill the cask ; leave the bung out four or five days; add a pint and a haK of brandy and an oimce of isinglass dissolved in a little light wine, and stop up the cask safelj' for eighteen months. Then bottle the wine, seal the corks, and in six or eight months it will be fit for use. This wine will remain good for three years, not longer. Wine, Cherry (another way). Pick IMoreUo cherries, not over-ripe, from their stalks, mash them in a mortax, and press to detach the WIN ( 1131 ) WIN pulp without bruising the stones, and lot the mass stand twenty-four hours. Press the pulp through a coarse hair sieve, and to every three gallons add from eight to nine pounds of loaf sugar. Put the mixture into a cask, add yeast, and allow it to ferment, then rack the wine from its lees as soon as it grows clear. Some makers of cherry wine crack the stones and hang them with the hruised kernels in a hag suspended from the hung-hole and in the cask during the fermentation of the wine, which thus acquires a nutty flavour. A good deal of this wine is made in Russia, where it is a common practice to add honey to the cherries. Wine, Cider. Mx sixteen gallons of apple- juice, sixteen pounds of honey, four oimces of white tartar; enclose in a hag one ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, and suspend it in the mixture while fermenting. When the fermentation is complete, add one gallon of rum. Wine, Clary. Take nine gallons of cold soft water, six pounds of honey, thirty pounds of the best loaf sugar, and the whites of twelve eggs heaten to a froth ; mix all these together, and boil for an hour and a half, skimming and stirring nearly all the time. Pour the liquor into a cooler and add four quarts of clary tops in flower ; work it at the proper temperature with good fresh ale yeast, keepinaKit closely covered up and stiiTcd well. Pick, 'stone, and cut in pieces fourteen pounds of good Malaga raisins ; pour over them three gallons of lukewarm water that has been well boiled, stir well, and let them steep for five days. At the end of that time press the fruit in a hair bag, strain the liquor from the flowers, add to it the rinds of ten lemons pared thin and their juice strained, and put this into the cask, filling up, and keep it open three or four days until the fermentation has entirely ceased. Then add two quarts of French brandy, and stop it up for three months, after which rack it off into a clean cask, filter the lees, and fill the same cask again, adding six ounces of sugar-candy bruised, and an ounce of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of wine. Stop it up securely, and keep it eighteen months in a cool dry cellar; then bottle the wine, seal the corks, and in a twelvemonth it will be fit for use. Wine, Coltsfoot. Take ten gallons of river water, and boil with it twenty-six pounds of strong moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well beaten, three-quarters of an hour, skimming well all the time. Pour the liquor boiling hot on three pecks of fresh-gathered coltsfoot flowers and ten pounds of Malagas stoned and cut small ; cover the vessel up close, and let them infuse three days, stirring three times daily. Then make two gallons of the liquor scalding hot, stir it well into the rest, and add six or seven table-spoonfuls of good yeast ; keep it well mixed and covered up, until it has worked freely, then strain it into your cask upon three oimces of the best ginger bruised and the thin rinds of six Seville oranges, and let it remain open, covering the bung-hole with a tile until it has ceased fermenting. Add three half-pints of Freach brandy and a bottle of strong madeira wine, stop it up securely, and keep it twelve months ; then bottle it, and driiik in six months more. This is a valuable wine for its medicinal properties. Robinson. Wine, Cowslip. Take seven pounds of moist sugar, two gallons and a half of water, and two ounces of ho];)s, and boil them together. Pare the rinds of eight lemons or Seville oranges, or a part of each; pour the boilingliquor over them ; when this is cool squeeze the juice over it, and add this to the liquor. Ferment the whole with yeast in the usual way, and put it into the cask. Gather cowslips on a fine day, carefully picking out all stalks and leaves. Put into the cask of wine as much of the flowers as would equal a quart when fresh gathered for every gallon; stir well till the, flowers sink. Dissolve three ounces of isinglass in a little of the wine, and retui-n it to the rest to fine ; in a few days bung it up close. In six months the wine will be fit for bottling, but it will improve by being kept longer in the cask. By managing as just described, the wine will be fined in the cask, and will be as good from the cask as if bottled, which will be a great saving of trouble. Wine, Currant, Red. Bruise eight gallons of red cui-rants with one quart of raspberries. Press out the juice, and to the residuum, after pressure, add eleven gallons of cold water. Add two pounds of beetroot sliced as thin as possible to give colour, and let them infuse, with frequent mixture, for twelve hours ; then press out the liquor as before, and add it to the juice. Next dissolve twenty pounds of raw sugar in the mixed liquor, and three ounces of red tartar in fine powder. In some hours the fermentation will commence, which is to be managed as in the case of gooseberry wine. When the fermentation is completely over, add one gallon of brandy ; let the wine stand for a week, then rack off, and let it stand for two months. It may now be finally racked off, bunged up in the cask, and set by in a cool cellar for as many years as may be required to ameliorate it. Wine, Currant, White. Bruise forty pounds of fruit in a tub holding fifteen or twentj' gallons, and add to it four gallons of water. Stir the whole well, and squeeze tiU the pulp is thoroughly separated from the skins. Leave these materials at rest for about twelve hours, and then strain them through a canvas bag or fine hair sieve, and pass one gallon of fresh water through the marc. Dissolve twentyfive or thirty pounds of white sugar in the juice thus obtained, and make up the whole quantity by an addition of ten gallons and a haK of water. The proportion of sugar here given is for a brisk wine : if a sweet wine is required there must be forty pounds of sugar. White sugar is recommended as much the best ; if moist sugar be used, somewhat more will be necessary. The must being now prepared, the fermentation and subsequent treatment must be exactly the same as for gooseberry wine. If brandy is to be added, it should be added towards the end of the fermentation in the WIN ( 1132 ) WIN cask. I'or Ihu ubove quantity some will put ia a quart of brandy alone ; others first mix it ?with honey. Whether the wine should be racked oft' from the ley at the end of six months, jmt into a fresh cask for six months longer before it is bottled, or be suffered to remain the whole time in the lees, must depend upon the state of the wine. The bottling should be carefully attended to. Wine Custard. liub off the zest of a lemon on six ounces of sugar; beat eighteen ?ggs to froth with half a spoonful of Hour potato flour, if it is at hand a quart of wine, And a cupful of orange-flower water. Set the mixture on the fire, and keep stiiTing it till it froths. Pour the custai'd into cups or bowls, and serve with macaroons. Wine Custard Sauce. Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them up till thick, mix with them sugar to taste, the juice of two lemons, half a pint of white wine, and a little more than half that quantity of water. Set it on the tire, beat with a whisk till it froths : whenever the sauce boils, take it off. This sauce is to be ?aten with puddings and tarts. Wine, Damson. Boil ten gallons and a half of pure river water with thirty-two pounds of strong moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well beaten half an hour, skimming it well ; then add thirty-two quarts of rijie prune damsons well jjicked from the stalks and stoned, and boil them half an hour longer, skimming ?and stii'ring until the liquor is beautifully hright. Strain it off the fruit in a fine hair sieve into your cooler, and when at the proper temperature work it with fresh yeast, spread on a toast, three or four days. Then di-aw it off the sediment, put it into the cask, filter the lees, and fill up, letting it work out at the bung. When it has ceased hissing put to it a quart of French brandy, and stop it up safely, pasting paper over the bung. Let it stand six months, then rack it off, filter the lees through flannel twice folded, and filling the cask again, add an ounce of isinglass dissolved and mixed with two quaits of the wine. Secure the bung well, and let it remain two years ; then draw it off and bottle, sealing the corks. This being a rich wine, requires age, and should not be drunk imtil it has been bottled two j-ears or more. Hobinsou. Wine, Damson (another way). Gather the damsons when dry, stone them, and mash them with your hand." Put them into a vessel with a fauset, and to eight pounds of fruit add one gallon of water. Boil the water, and put it to the fruit scalding hot. Let it stand about two days, then draw it .off; and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of fine sugar. Let the barrel be fuU, and stop it close. If it is a large quantity, let it stand twelve months before you drink it. Wine Decanters, Cleaning of. Use a little pearlash or soda, and some cinders and water, liinse the decanters well out with clean water. Wine, Elderberry.- The eldcrberrv is well suited to the production of wine. The juice contains a considerable quantity of the I principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour imparts a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and sugar must be added to it. The following is an ajij roved recipe : Take one gallon of ripe elderberries and one quart of damsons or sloes for every two gallons of wine to be made. Boil the elderberries in about half the quantity of water till they burst, breaking them frequently with a stick. Strain the liquor, and return it to the copper. To produce eighteen gallons of wine, twenty gallons of this liquor are required, and for whatever quantity the liquor falls short of this, water must be added to make it up. Boil this along with fifty-six pounds of coarse moist sugar for half an hour, and it is to be fermented in the usual manner when sufficiently cooled, and then it is to be tunned or put into the cask. Put now into a muslin bag a pound and a half of ginger bruised, a pound of allspice, two ounces of cinnamon, and foui- or six ounces of hops ; suspend the bag with the spice in the cask by a string not long enough to let it touch the bottom ; let the liquor work in the cask for a fortnight, and fill up in the usual way. The wine will be fit to tap in two months, and is not improved by keeping hke many other wines. Elderberries alone may be used. Wine, Elderberry (another way). Take ten galluns of elderbeiTies, ten gallons of water, forty-five pounds of white sugar, eight ounces of red tartar, and ferment with yeast in the usual way. When in the cask, ginger root sliced or allspice, four ounces, bitter almonds, three ounces, suspended to a bag may be allowed to infuse in the liquor while it is fermenting ; they are then to be removed. Brandy may be added or not. When the wine is clear, which will be in about three months, it may be di'awn off from the lees and bottled. The spices may be varied according to taste. Wine from the Leaves and Stalks of the Grape. The following is Dr. Macculloch's recipe for making this wine: "The young leaves may be taken at any period from vines which have been cultivated for this purpose, and from which no fruit is expected. In other cases they may be obtained from the summer pruning. The tendrils and green shoots are equally useful. The claret vine may be cultivated for this purpose, in which case the wine will have a red colour. The leaves are best when young, and should not have attained more than half their growth; they should be plucked with their stems. In the neighbour-hood of London they require to be carefully washed to remove the taste of soot which so often adheres to them : sometimes that is insufficient. From sixty to eighty Ijounds of such leaves being introduced into a tub of sufficient capacity, seven or eight gallons of boiling water are to be poured on them, in which they are to infuse for twenty-four hours. The liquid being poured off, the leaves must be pressed in a press of considerable power; and being subsequently washed with an additional gallon of water, they are again submitted to the action of the press. The sugar, varj-ing from twenty-five to thirty I WIN ( 1133 ) WIN pounds, is then to be added to the mixed liquors, and the quantity being made up to ten gallons and a half, the process for makint gooseberry wine is to be followed. Although the water is here directed to be boiling hot, it must be remembered that it is immediately cooled down to that temperature which is most efficacious in extracting the several soluble ingredients of the fruit." The following additional observations on this curious subject are extracted from the same author: "The difference between young and old leaves is very great ; the former contain ten or twelve times the quantity of bitter that the latter do. The old leaves are unfit for the ferment. June is the proper time to pluck them ; at this season it is usual to remove leaves from the fruit-bearing vines, so that they may be easily procured ; but if vines should be grown for this sole XJurpose, as they may be in any waste place or hedgerow, being allowed to run wild and unpruned, it will be always easy to procure a sufficient quantity and in the best condition. In their very best state at least six pounds are required for two of sugar, and it is perhaps preferable to adopt eight and a half; though no rule can be absolute, such is the variation in the extractive produce of the leaves. In the progress of the fermentation, should the wine promise to be too sweet, from defect of ferment, it is quite easy to add a fresh infusion, so as to correct this defect by a renewal of the fermentation. Of the leaves it must be observed, as they scarcely yield anything to the press, they require to be infused in the water for some time before they are subjected to fermentation, and they seem to yield their soluble parts most readily to hot water, without any material alteration in the resxilt a matter of no surprise because, though the water be applied at the boiling heat, its temperature is immediately lowered. Tartar appears sometimes to be a useful addition to the leaves of the claret- vine ; and it may be added in the proportion of half a pound or one pound to ten gallons of the must. One advantage results from the use of vine-leaves the facility with which they are reproduced during the growth of the vine. By this the produce of a small vineyard in leaves alone wiU be abundant, and even that of a single vine suffered to run wild, branches and leaves, will be as great as is required for the use of most families. It must always be remembered that in these cases the price of the sugar is the price of the wine. The expense of utensils and labour is comparatively trifling, and, when the manufacture is upon a small scale, scarcely worthy of regard. " Wine Froth for Dessert. Take the yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of wine, and place them in a deep saucepan on the fire, adding the grated peel of a lemon and sugar to taste. Beat with a whisk till the mixture of the eggs becomes a thick froth, then stir in tlie whites, which must be beaten to snow, \ lisk the froth until it thickens, then pour it into cups or glasses : if into glasses, the froth should first be allowed to cool a little. Wine, Gilliflower. To three gallons of water put six pounds of the best powdered white sugar; boil the sugar and water together for half an hour, keep skimming as the scum rises ; let it stand to cool. Beat up three ounces, of syrup of bctony with a large spoonful of ale yeast, put it into the liquor, and brew it well together; then, having a peck of gilliflowers cut from the stalks, put them into the Liquor, let them infuse and work together three days covered with a cloth ; strain it, and put it into* a cask, and let it settle for three or four weeks ; then bottle it. WiSe, Ginger. Take eighteen or twenty pounds of sugar, dissolve in nine gallons and a half of boiling water, and add ten or twelve ounces of bruised ginger-root. Boil the mixture for about a quarter of an hour, and when nearly- i. cold, add to it half a pint of yeast, and pour it into a cask to ferment, taking care to till the cask from time to time with the surplus of theliquor made for that purpose. "When the fermentation ceases, rack off the wine, and bottle it when transparent. Very often the outer rind of a few lemons is boiled together with the ginger intended for the wine, to impart to the wine the flavour of lemon-peel. Wine, Gooseberry. The following is. Dr. MaccuUoeh's recipe for making gooseberry wine : " The fruit must be selected before it has shown the least tendency to ripen, but about the time when it has attained its full growth. The particular variety of gooseberryis perhaps indifferent; but it will be advisable to avoid the use of those which in their ripe state have the highest flavour. The Green Bath is perhaps among the best. The smallest should be separated by a sieve properly adapted to this purpose, and any unsound or bruised fruit rejected, while the remains of the blossom and the fruit-stalk should be removed by friction or other means. Forty pounds o? such fruit are then to be introduced into a tub properly cleaned and of the capacity of fifteen or twenty gallons, in whicJi it is to be bruised in successive proportions, by a pressure sufficient to burst the berries without breaking the seeds or materially compressing the skins. Four gallons of water are then to be poured into the vessel, and the contents are to be carefully stirred and squeezed in the hand until the whole of the juice and pulp are separated from the solid matters. The materials are then to remain at rest from six to twenty-four hours, when they are to be strained through a coarse bag with as much force as can conveniently be applied to them. One gallon of fresh water may afterwards be passed through the mare for the purpose of removing any soluble matter which may have remained behind. Thirty or twenty-five pounds of white sugar are now to be dissolved in the juice thus procured, and the total bulk of the fluid made up with water to the amount of ten gallons and a half. If I name two quantities, it is because the fruit itself varies in quality, and it depends on the operator to distinguish. The old recipes allow forty pounds, of which the consequence is, invariably, a sweet wane, while it fails of being brisk in nine cases out of ten. And the smaller proportion here given will most frequently ensure a brisk wine, if the operator will but attend WIN ( 1134 ) WIN to the progress of the fermentation and the treatment as formei-ly described. The liquor thus obtained is the artificial must, which is equivalent to the juice of the grape that is, made to resemble it as nearly as possible. It is now to be introduced into a tub of sufficient capacity, over which a blanket or similar substance, covered by a board, is to be thro vn, the vessel being placed in a temperature varying from bo" to 60" of Fahrenheit's thermometer. Here it may remain for twelve or twenty-four hours, according to the symptoms of fermentation which it may show, and from this tub it is to be drawn oft" into the cask in which it is to ferment. "When in the cask it must be filled nearly to the bung-hole, that the scum which arises may be thrown out. As the fermentation proceeds, and the bulk of the liquor in the cask diminishes, the superfluous portion of must, which was made for this express purpose, must be poured in, so as to keep the liquor stiU near the bung-hole. "WTien the fermentation becomes a little more languid, as may be known by a diminution of the hissing sound, the bung is to be driven in, and a hole bored by its side, into which a wooden peg, called the spile, is to be fitted. After a few days this peg is to be loosened, that, if any material quantity of it has been generated, it may find vent. The same trial must be made after successive intervals, and when there appears no longer any danger of extensive expansion, the spile may be permanently tightened. The wine thus made must remain over the -winter in a cool cellar, as it is no longer necessary to provoke the fermenting process. If the operator is not incHned to bestow any further labour or expense on it, it may be examined on some clear and cold day towards the end of February or beginning of March, when, if fine, as it will sometimes be, it may be bottled without further precautions. To ensui-e its fineness, however, it is a better practice to decant it, towards the end of December, into a fresh cask, so as to clear it from the first lees. At this time also the operator will be able to determine whether it is not too sweet for his views. In this case, instead of decanting it, he mil stir up the lees, so as to renew the fermenting process, taking care also to increase the temperature at the same time. At whatever time the wine has been decanted, it is to be fined in the usual way with isinglass. Sometimes it is found expedient to decant it a second time into a fresh cask, and again to repeat the operation of fining. All these removals should be made in clear, dry, and, if possible, cold weather. In any case the wine must be bottled during the month of March! The wines thus produced will generally be brisk, and similar in their qualities (flavour excepted) to the wines of Champagne, with the strength of the best Sillery, if the larger proportions of sugar have been used, but resembling the inferior kinds with the smaller allowance. Inattention, or circumstances which cannot always be controlled, will sometimes cause it to be sweet and still, at other times to be dry . In the former case it may be manufactured the following season, by adding to it that proportion of juice from fresh fruit which the operator's judgment may dictate, and renewing the fermentation and subsequent treatment as before. In the latter case, as its briskness can never be restored, it must be treated as dry wine, by decanting into a sulphured cask, when it must be fined and bottled in the usual manner. Such dry wines are occasionally disagreeable to the taste in the first or second year, but are much improved by keeping, nor ought they to be drunk under five or six years." Wine Jelly for an Invalid {see Jelly, Wine, for an InvaUd) . Wine Jelly, Madeira. This jelly is made just like calf's-foot jelly. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stewpan a bottle of madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet some other day. This is a common jelly, which cooks frequently serve ; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with another jelly, which make as follows: Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, break the yolks of four eggs into a stewpan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken ; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice in a basin, and use it for the same purpose, to decorate as in the recipe Winter Jelly, Mosaic. It sometimes happens that the jellies made of calf's feet wiU break when you turn them upside down into a dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify the jelly. It gives it a greater substance. Tins jelly is a monotonous one, but the sagacity of the cook will in some respects alter this character, for he will sometimes give this jelly plain, sometimes with grapes in it, and sometimes put it in a cylinder mould. When you have turned the jelly, have some of the same in ice, take a stewpan cover, chop some of the jelly very fine, and put it sometimes aU round, sometimes in the middle, and try by your intelligence to supply the deficiency of the art whenever you can. This jely is made in all seasons ; in summer strawberries are excellent in it, and the flavour of the fruit harmonises well with the jelly. Wine Jelly, Madeira (another way). See Madeira Wine Jelly. Wine Lozenges. Steep one ounce of isinglass in water for twelve hours use very little water for this purpose then boil in a pint of port or madeira until evaporated to one-half. Pour into a mould ; when cold cut into lozenges with a large pair of scissors. These lozenges, used in moderation, are highly tonic. Wine, Marigold. Take twenty -five poimds of good loaf sugar and four pounds of honey, and boU them, with ten gallons of soft water and the whites of eight eggs well-beaten, one hour, skimming it until quite clear, and pour it hot upon three pecks of marigold flowers and four pounds of good raisins stoned and shred, covering the vessel close. Next day stir WIN ( 1135 ) WIN the liquor continually twenty minutes, and let it remain covered until the following morning. Then strain the liquor, and put it into your cask upon the rinds of six Seville; oranges pared very thin, and eight ounces of sugar-candy broken smaU, reserving two gallons, which must be made nearly boiling hot, and stirred amongst the rest. Then work it with nearly seven or eight table-spoonfuls of good fresh yeast, cover the bung-hole with a tile, and let it work over, filling it up every day as the liquor decreases. AVTien the fermentation has ceased, put in three pints of French brandy and an ounce of dissolved isinglass, and stop it up securely. It will be fine in liine months, and fit for bottling, but will improve if kept longer. Let it remain in bottles well corked and sealed twelve months. Wine, Mulberry. Gather the mulberries before they are quite ripe, bruise them in a tub, and to every quart of the bruised berries put the same quantity of water. Let the mixture stand for twenty-four hours, and then strain it through a coarse sieve. Having added to every gallon of the diluted juice three or foxir pounds of sugar, allow it to ferment in the usual way. When fine in the cask, bottle it. Wine, MxiUed. Any kind of wine may be muUed, though port and claret are the most suitable, and are usually preferred for the purpose. Claret needs to be liberally sweetened. The quantity of spice used must be regulated by individual taste, .which varies considerably upon questions of this sort. Gi'ated nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and mace, are the spices generally used for mulled wine. To mull the wine, take equal quantities of wine and water (or, if preferred, double the quantity of wine to that of water). Boil the spice in the water till the latter is sufiiciently flavoured; stmin the liquor, sweeten it, mix the wine with it, and bring it again to the point of boiling. Serve very hot, with wine biscuits or thin strips of dry toast. When equal quantities only of wane and water are used, an egg may be whisked in a bowl, the boiling liquor may be stirred gradually into it, and then served. The, saucepan in which wine is mulled should be delicately clean, and used for no other purpose. Wine, Mulled, Claret. Take a few cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, the thin peel of half a lemon, two slices of lemon, four ounces of sifted sugar, and one ' pint of water ; boil for a quarter of an hour in an enamelled saucepan, add a little grated nutmeg or powdered ginger, two bottles of claret, one small glass of brandy or curatjoa ; when nearly boiling, strain. Wine, Orange. "Seville oranges are used for this purpose ; they are best in March. F?r eighteen gallons of wine half a chest of oranges are required. Pare the rinds from about a dozen or two dozen, as more or less of the bitter will be agreeable. Pour over this a quart or two of boiling water, and after letting this stand for twelve hours, strain off the water which extracted much of the essential oil of the oranges. Take the peel off entirely from the remainder of the oranges, squeeze the juice through a bag or sieve, and put it into a cask with about forty-five poimds of white sugar, or fifty-five of the best moist sugar. Soak the pulp in water for twenty-four hours, and after straining this add it to the cask, liepeat this several times till the cask is full. Stir the whole weU with a stick tiU the sugar is dissolved, then set it to ferment. The fermentation is slower than wifh currant wine, but may be heard hissing for some weeks. \\'Tien this subsides, close the bung-hole and proceed as in the case of gooseberry wine. Some add brandy. This wine requires to be kept in the cask a year before it is bottled." Wine, Peaetl (a Canadian recipe). Take the stones out of forty-five pounds of ripe peaches, slice the fruit into a clean vessel, and strew over and amongst them ten poimds of loaf sugar broken small : let them lie covered up until the next day. Boil ten gallons of soft water, with sixteen pounds of loaf sugar and the whites of ten eggs beaten fine, half an hour, skimming it until clear ; then put to it the fruit and sugar out of the vessel, and boil them to a pulp, taking off the scum as it rises. Put the whole into a tub upon the shells and kernels of the peaches previously broken, stir it well, and when properly cooled stir well amongst it nearly half a pint of good yeast, and leave it to fei-ment. Stir it well two days at proper intervals, then strain the liquor through a fine sieve, and put it in your cask to work over, being kept always full. Add the thin rinds of six Seville oranges, and half a pint of orange and lemon juice mixed, and when the fermentation has ceased, put in two quarts of brandy, and stop it up for two months. Then rack it off, into a clean vessel, filter the lees, and fill the cask again, adding an oimco of dissolved isinglass and six ounces of sugar-candy. Stop it up securely, and keep it twelve months; then bottle it, seal the corks, and let it be six months longer before you drink it. It is a delicious wine, and may be made at a trifling expense. Wine Punch. Take two lemons, and rasp the yellow rind off with half a pound of loaf sugar. Put this with the juice of the lemons into a bowl ; then make scalding hot two bottles of good Ehine wine, adding to it a pint of strong green tea. Pour this over the sugar, and add from half a pint to a pint of arrack or fine rum. Wine, Raisin. Procure fresh Smj-ma or Malaga raiyins ; pick out the stalks and all defective fruit ; chop twenty-eight poimds of these into small bits, and pour upon them three gallons of tolerably hot water, and let them stand to soak for twelve hours. Put the whole; into a hair-cloth or clean canvas bag, and with a sufiiciently powerful press press out the juice. Put two gallons more of hot water on the marc of raisins; let this remain also twelve hours, and press out as before. Mix the two liquids together ; but the skins are not to be used. Add to the juice thus obtained three pounds of white sugar, and put the whole into a proper vessel to ferment. Some add an ounce or two ?f crude tartar, but no yeast, aa the raisins WIN ( 1136 ) WIN contain of themselves sufficient fermenting principle. This liquor will ferment, and the vessel should be covered with a blanket. When the first fermentation is over, the wine is to be transferred or racked into a clean cask, and suffered to undergo the slow fermentation ; it is then to be kept bunged up for three months, and then racked into another cask. In about twelve months it will be fit to bottle. Some add brandy after the first fermentation; but this is not necessary. A still richer wine may be made by increasing the quantity of fruit and leaving out the sugar. Wine Sauce for Sweet Puddings. jNIake a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, sweeten it, flavour with grated lemon or orange-rind, and add a glassful of wine. Mix thoroughly, and serve very hot. If preferred, brandy or rum may be substituted for the wine. Sufiicient for five or six persons. Wine Sauce, Red. This is a Danish sauce to be eaten with plum pudding. Take a quarter of a pint of cherry-juice and half a pint of wine. When the mixture boils put in a good spoonful of flour mixed with a gill of water and two or three spoonfuls of brandy. Just before the sauce reaches the boiling point take it off, and serve immediatelj'. Wine Sauce, Tremblant, Beef with {see Beef with Wine Sauce, Tremblant). W ine Soup (a German recipe) . Take two ounces of butter and melt it in a stewpan. In this brown two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir into it a pint of water, add three or four ounces of sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, a stick of cinnamon, and a bottle of wine. Simmer ten minutes. Place in a tureen the yolks of six eggs, pour over them slowly the wine soup, and send to table with toasted sippets. Wine Soup, Monastery {see Monastery Wine Soup). Wine Soup with Lemon (a German recipe). Cut two lemons in thin slices, and take out the seeds. Cover the slices with powdered sugar in a tureen. Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, and throw in a cupful of grated bread to brown. Keep the crumbs shaken or stirred till they are crisp, then strew thera over the lemon-slices. Make a quart of wine, with a pint of water and sufiicient sugar, boiling hot ; pour it over the lemon-slices; cover closely for a few minutes, and serve with sponge cakes. German National Cookerij. Wine Soups. Wine soups, made of light German wine, are very common throughout Germany. They are very quickly made. Two or three recipes are given. No. 1. Dissolve an ounce of butter in S saucepan, stir into it briskly a table-spoonful of flour, and beat the paste over the fire till it acquires a little colour. Stir into it half a pint of water, and add the thin rind and strained juice of haH a fresh lemon, half a stick of cinnamon, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a small bottle of light wine. Simmer the soup for ten minutes, break three eggs iuto the tureen, and froth them lightly. Mix them with a spoonful of the soup. Add the rest gradually, and serve. No. 2. Boil two ounces of best rice and thethin rind of half a lemon in three-quartcis of a pint of water. When the rice is tender, mix with it gradually a small bottle of wine, and add as much white sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly. Break two eggs into the tureen, mix with them a spoonful of the soup, and serve. No. 3. Cut a large fresh lemon into thin slices, carefully removing the seeds. Put them into a tureen, cover with powdered white sugar, and add a tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs which have been browned in butter. Mix a pint of wine with half a pint of water. Sweeten the mixture, and bring it to the point of boiling. Pour it upon the slices of lemon, &c., let them soak for five minutes, and serve. Send small sponge cakes to table as an accompaniment. Wine-sour Plums, To Preserve (excellent). Pick oft' the stalks, weigh the plmns, and take half their weight in loaf sugar pounded. Tear the skin of the seam with a pin, and put the fi uit and the sugar, in alternate layers, into a large earthen jar. Cover the jar closely, and put it in the oven in a shallow tin of boiling water. Keep the water boiling under it. When the plums are soft, pour the syrup from them ; boil it, pour it over the fruit, and leave them till cold. Do this several times until the skin looks hard and the plums clear. Let them stand a week, then take them up one by one with a spoon and put them into jars. Boil the syrup once more, and pour it over them. If there is not sufiicient sjTup to cover them, add syrup to it, made in the proportion of a pound of sugar to a tea-cupfid of water. When the plums are cold, place brandied papers upon them, and tie a bladder over, to keep them air-tight ; otherwise, they will lose their colour. If stored in a cool dry place, plums thus preserved will keep for years. Time, about ten days. Wine-sours are plums; peculiar to Yorkshire. Wine-sours, To Preserve (a more expeditious method). Skin and stone the plums, and boil them till soft. Put with them three-quarters of their weight in sugar, and stir them continuously till the sjTup will set when a little is put upon a plate. Pour the jam into jars, and cover in the usual way. Store in a cool dry place. Time to boil the plums, threequarters of an hour without sugar; about a quarter of an hour with sugar. Wine, Spiced, or Bishop. Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon, stick cloves in the incisions, and roast the lemon by a slow fire. Put small but equal quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace, and allspice into a saucepan with half a pint of water. Let it boil till it is reduced one-half. Boil a bottle of port wine ; bum a portion of the spirit out of it by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan. Put the roasted lemon and spice into the wine, stir it up well, and let it stand near the fire for tep minutes. Sub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug with the juice of half a lemon (not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate some nutmeg into it, sweeten to taste, and serve with the lemon and spice floating in it. Oranges are sometimes, used instead of lemons. WIN ( 1137 ) WIN Wine, Strawberry. Bruise and press out the juice. Pour on the marc seven gallons of water; infuse for twelve hours, and press out the liquor ; add this liquor to the juice, and mix them with six gallons of cider. Dissolve in the mixture sixteen poimds of raw sugar and three ounces of powdered red tartar, and then set it to ferment in the usual manner. Pare the rinds of two lemons and two oranges, and, together with the juice, throw them into the fermenting-tub, and take out the rinds when the fermentation is over. Three gallons of brandy may be added. Wine Test, Dr. Paris's. " Expose equal parts of sulphur and powdered oystershells to a white heat for fifteen minutes, and when cold add an equal quantity of cream of tartar. These are to be put into a strong bottle with common water to boil for an hour, and the solution is afterwards to be decanted into ounce phials, adding twenty drojjs of muriatic acid to eacli. This liquid will precipitate the least quantity of lead from wines in a very sensible black precipitate. As iron might be accidentally contained in the wine, the mm-iatic acid is added to prevent its precipitation." Wine Vinegar. Wine vinegar is properly the vinegar of genuine foreign wines, methodically prepared as in Germany, France, and Italy, and does not include those made from cider, malt-wines, or made wines of any description whatever. All wines, especially those of a weak kind, either spontaneously, or by repeated fermentations, may be converted into a kind of vinegar. Wine Whey, White. Take half a pint of new milk and dilute it with an equal quantity of hot water ; boil both together, and while boiling pour in at the moment two wineglassfuls of white wine. A curd wiU form, which, after the mixture is boiled for two or three minutes, will settle at the bottom of the saucepan. Strain the whey carefully from the curd ; it should be perfectly clear. Sugar may be added to please the taste. "Warm whitewine whey promotes perspiration, and hence it is useful in the commencement of some complaints ; but taken cold it has a different effect, and often in cases of low fever it is an excellent beverage; also in the early stages of convalescence it is as safe and sufficient a stimulant as can be given." Wine, Wholesomeness of. " Sweet wines," says Dr.T. J. Graham, "are nourishing, and may sometimes be useful to the weak and convalescent, but they are not so wholesome as the wines in more common use. The acid wines, as the Rhenish and hock, are the least heating, and the most diuretic, and well calculated for consumption in hot weather. All thin or weak wines, however, though of an agreeable flavour, yet from their containing little sjiirit, are readily disposed to become acid in the stomach. But it ought to be observed that with some delicate persons the best Rhenish wines agree very well, and are less liable to ferment than many of the stronger wines. Tlio diy and strong wines, such as shcrr\', madeira, 7b and marsala, and the dry and light, as burgundy, claret, and hermitage, are the most wholesome : they are more cordial than the acid ones, and can be taken with safety in greater quantities than the sweet. The gentle astringency in genuine claret renders it in the opinion of many 1 on the whole the most wholesome of any strong liquor whatsoever to be drunk plentifully. Port is a strong astringent wine, and, when not mixed with more than a very small portion of brandy, is generous and stomachic, and well suited to the generality of British constitutions in tolerable health. It is well calculated for cold and moist weather ; but, like other red wines, is apt to occasion costiveness. Sparkling brisk wines, as champagne, inebriate more speedily than the stiller wines, but the morbid excite- ' ment is of short duration, and the subsequent ' exhaustion is comparatively trifling. In feverish habits, burgundy, port, and the stronger white wines, are to be avoided. To those who have a disposition to corpulence, claret, hock, or moselle, on account of their diuretic properties, are preferable to every other kind of wine for daily use. The moderate use of wine is safe, and often highly beneficial to those who have passed the meridian of life, but to young persons it is almost invariably pernicious. Children in tolerable health are never strengthened, but always injured, by it. As a tonic and stomachic to the aged, three or four moderate-sized glasses of good wine after dinner ought to be sufficient for most men." Wines. Recipes for many home-made wines are given in the immediately preceding pages. Recipes for the following will be found under their respective headings : Apricot Ginger, Superior Aromatic Gooseberry, Eifer BlRCH VESCINO Blackberry Gooseberry, Still Black-currant Grape, Sparkling Champagne, Currant Herbs, Wine op Champagne, English Jelly, Weak, for InClaret, Mulled valids Cowslip Lemon Currant, Black Lemon, quickly made Currant, Red Malmsey Currant, White Malmsey, Scotch Currant, from Un- May RIPE Fruits Mulled Damson Orange Dandelion Parsnip (simple way) Egg Raisin Elder Raisin with Cider Frontignac Raspberry Ginger Shallot Vine Leaves WineSj, Alcohol in. The quantity of alcohol existing in different wines may be seen from the following table drawn up by Mr. Brande : Names of the Winex, Malt and Spirituous Liquors, and fhe proportion of Alcohol (specific gravity 0'825) in, one hundred parts of these liquids by measure. Lissa (average) . . . .25-41 Marsala (average) . . . . 25'09 Port (average) . . . -vj-'jo ;Madeira and Red or Bui'gundy ) Madeira (average) . . ji !3-39 27 WIN ( 1138 ) wii Na mes of the Wines, Malt and Spirituous lAquors, and the proportion of Alcohol {specific gravity 0-825) in one hvMdrcd parts of these liquids by measure. Xeres or Sherry (average) . . 19-17 Teneriife 19-79 Lackryma Ohristi . . . .19-70 Confltantia (white) .... 19-75 do. (red) .... 18-92 Lisbon 18-94 Cape Muscat 18-25 Roussillon (average) . . . 18-13 Malaga . . . . . . 17-26 Hermitage (white) . . . .17-43 Malmsey Madeira .... 16-40 Limel 15-52 Bordeaux Wine or Claret (average) 15-10 Sauternc 14-22 Burgundy (average) . . . 14-57 Nice 14-63 Champagne (still) .... 13-80 do. (sparkling) . . . 12-61 Red Hermitage .... 12-32 Vin de Grave .... 13.37 Frontignac 12-89 Cote Rotie 12-32 Rhenish Wine (average) . . 12-08 Tokay 9-88 Grooseberry Wine . . . .11-84 Cider (highest average) . . . 9-87 do. (lowest average) . . 5-21 Mead 7-32 Ale (average) 6-87 Brown Stout 6-80 Porter (average) .... 4-20 Small Beer 1-28 Brandy 53-39 Rum 53-68 Gin 51-60 Whisky 54-32 Irish Whiskj- .... 5390 The action of wines upon the animal economy depends principally upon the quantity of alcohol they contain. However, a certain given quantity of wine does not act in the same way as a mixture of alcohol and water in the same proportions ; and certain wines j-ielding on distillation very nearly the same proportion of alcohol do not inebriate with the same facility. This difference must be ascribed to the various kinds of combinations in which alcohol exists in these complex products. Wines, Analysis of. The foUowing remarks on this subject are drawn from the admirable South Kensington M-useum Handbook on " Food," by Professor Church. "When the sugary juice of any fruit is left to itself for a time at a moderately warm temperature, the change known as fermentation occurs. This fermentation is generally brought about by the growth of a low form of vegetable life an organised ferment. It consists of a splitting up of the sugar present in the liquid (or at least of a large part of it) into alcohol, which remains in the liquid, and carbonic acid gas, which escapes more or less completely. "Although the fermented juice of aU fruits may be regarded as wine, yet the term is generally limited to the alcoholic liquor prepared from the grape. But we have in Englarnd at Icaat two familiar native wines perry or pear wine, and cider or apple wine. Other so-called British vsdnes are usually made-up or compound liquors, into which a large quantity of cane or beet sugai- has been introduced. They cannot be regarded as true wiaes, nor are they generally wholesome. ' ' The analysis of grapes shows us that the chief ingredient in their juice is glucose, a kind of sugar. There is also some albuminoid matter and a little tartaric acid, chiefly in combination with potash ; other minor ingredients also exist in grape-juice. The seeds of the grape contain the astringent substance, tannin, with some bitter principles, while in the skins not onljdoes colouring matter exist, but also some flavouring matters and tannin. From these facts it will be clearly seen that very different qualities of wine may be made from the same quality of grape, according to the method of operating upon the fruit. The colour, the bouquet or volatile flavour, the astringency, &c., of a wine may thus be varied according to the admission or exclusion of the characteristic ingredients of the skins and stones of the grapes. "The main difference between grape-juice and grape- wine is the substitution of the sugar in the former by the alcohol which is characteristic of the latter. But other changes occur in the fermentation and ripening of wine. Much of the acid tartrate of potash is deposited from the liquid on being kept, this deposit being called argol. Argol consists chiefly of the abovementioned tartrate, but with it a little colouring matter and some tartrate of lime are always found. In the stronger but natural white wines small floating crystals of cream of tartar often occur; they are nearly pure acid tartrate of potash. A smaU quantity of free acetic acid is found in wines. \Vhen they become sour it is this acid to which the sourness is due; it is formed by the oxidation of some of the alcohol present, a change which occurs more readily in weak natural wines than in those which contain much alcohol. Another important characteristic of wines is the presence in small quantity of certain compounds called ethers. They are usually fragrant oily liquids, of which traces are present in all wines. These ethers are compounds formed by the union of the ordinary alcohol or spirit of wine with some of the acids which are contained in the fermented liquor at least this is usually the case. Much, then, of the flavour and perfume of a wine is due to these ethers, some of which existed, readyformed, in the grape itself, while others were slowly formed in keeping the fermented liquor. Different varieties of grape yield differentlj'flavoured wines, but the alcoholic strength of a wine depends mainly upon the proportion of sugar in the grapes, and in the degree of completion to which the process of fermentation is carried. The same kind of grape gives a very different wine as to flavour and alcoholic strength in accordance with the cliniate in which it is grown, the season, and the soil. "The quantity of true or absolute alcohol in natural wines varies from 7 per cent, in some hocks, clarets, and other light wines, to 13 per cent, in many Greek and Hungarian vintages. When the quantity of absolute alcohol exceeds 13 or 13 per cent, it may usually be c )nsidered WIN ( 1139 ) WIN that the wine has received an addition of distilled spirit, or been fortified. Wines of delicate flavour will not bear fortifying, the alcohol added being usually derived from the fermentation of artifically -prepared grape sugar, and containing the coarsely-flavoured alcohol knowTi as fusU oil. A fortified wine may contain a good deal of sugar, for the addition of spirit to a fermenting liquid checks, more or less completely, the further change of the sugar. " Wines under 26" of proof spirit pay on importation a duty of Is. a gallon ; those over 26¦ and under 42* pay 2s. 6d. Large and increasing quantities of natural wines now come into this country-. Even of Spanish wines so imported about one-half are of natural strength, while the average of all Spanish vines does not show much over 28 per cent, of proof-spirit rather less than 14 per cent, of absolute alcohol. " The following table shows the quantities of alcohol, of fixed acids calculated as tartaric acid of acetic acid, of sugar, of ethers, and of mineral matter or ash, contained in fair average samples of eight different kinds of wines commonly consumed in Europe. One imperial pint of each of the following wines contains about : r ; Name of Wine. Alcohol (absolute). IP ? 2 Sugar. 1 11 oz. ST. ? gr. nz. gr. p:r. CT Hock . . 1 219 39 18 none 4 16 Claret . . 1 306 31 18 9 6 IS Champagne Burgundy . 1 343 20 10 1 120 ' 5 20 2 18 24 17 10 ! 6 18 Carlowitz . 2 3o 36 19 none 5 16 Sherry . . 3 147 24 12 236 : 4 38 Madeira 3 218 26 18 175 \ 5 33 Port. . . 3 218 23 12 359 1 6 20 "The different wines made in this country from rhubarb stalks, gooseberries, currants, cowslips, elderbemes, oranges, &c., contain oxalic, malic, and other acids, besides the tartaric acid which is the chief acid of the grape. Now these acids are not thrown out of the liquor after fermentation, as is the case to a great extent with the wine from grapes. Thus sugar has to be added to mask the acidity of these liqueurs, and in consequence they are not so wholesome as the natural imported wines. But it must not be supposed that grapes are entirely free from all acids save tartaric, or that the analyses as above given represent every constituent of the wines we have included in the table. " The ethers of wines pre\'iously alluded to include a number of compounds not yet completely analysed or imderstood. Some of them, however, have been examined pretty fully, and even exactly imitated by chemical means. (Enanthate, butyrate, and acetate of ethyl are the names given to some of the best known of these ethers. These ethers enter into the composition of the artificial "oil of cognac" and various flavouring essences." Wines, Bottling of. Bottling can never be looked on as an unimportant matter, seeing that upon the process depend in a great measure many of the finest qualities of different wines. As a general rule, fine and delicate wines never attain to their full perfection till they have been some time in bottle. There are many conditions essential to a satisfactory performance of the operation, such as the state of the vnno, the atmosphere, and the materials employed in the process. The state of the wine should be such as would prevent any further advantages accruing from its retention in the wood. This point varies much even in the same wine that is, in wine made from the same plants grown upon the same ground, but of different crops (because the grapes of one year's crops may be more matured than those of another), and even in the same crop, when the wine has been placed in different utensils and subjected to slight changes of temperature. To ascertain the point, the palate of a skilled " taster " is usually the surest guide. Wine should never be bottled till it is stiU, clear, and translucent. The least negligence in these respects may seriously compromise its condition after bottling. From what has just been said, it wiU be seen that it is impossible to fix a determinate date at which particular wines ought to be bottled. In any case, it should not be delayed until the wine begins to deteriorate, nor hurried on before it has acquired a suitable maturity. The atmospheric conditions most favourable to the process of bottling are those in which the wine is most tranquil. Autumn and winter, up to the end of Mareh, when the weather is still cold neither damp, overbright, nor thundery are the best times, for the reasons which render these seasons most suitable to " racking." As regards material, great circumspection should be observed in the choice of bottles and of the corks to be used with them. However good the bottles themselves may be, it is indispensable that they should be washed, inside and out, with scrupulous care, so that they may be free from the least spot or stain of any foreign substance, and from suspicion of imparting even the slightest colour or taste to the water in which they are washed. The practice of using leaden small-shot in washing bottles, to detach the harder portions of fur and crust, is highlj prejudicial, and should be forbidden in everj' Case. The shot-corns often get wedged between the sides of the bottle and its convex bottom so firmly as to defy all efforts to dislodge them. Coming in contact with the wine, they dissolve more or less completely, and communicate to the latter poisonous properties, due not only to the formation of salts of lead, but to the arsenic which enters into the composition of small shot. For cleansing purposes, therefore, metallic chains with small joints are greatly to be preferred, though, after all, washing with suitable brushes is the best method, and various small machines exist which execute the operation very satisfactorily. The bottles should be allowed to drain thoroughly before the wine is put in, for wh'ch purpose they should be made to stand bottom upwards for a sufficient time, the necks being inserted in orifices placed for the purpose on tables or shelves. Corks should invariably be used as stoppers. It is very essential that they should be of good quality, fine, even in texture, and WIN ( 114G ) WIN elastic, and, in the case of new corks, that they should be properly cut, and free from defects. After bottling, it is very desirable that the wine should stand for some time, to get the full benefit of the operation generally speaking, for twelve mouths at least. During this period the bottle should be kept in a suitable storehouse, in such a position that the \ane may cover the corks, and should on no account be moved. Ordinary wines containing a small portion of alcohol are apt to fur if these precautions are unheeded. Should the vine dei osit any sediment after bottling (which it generally does), it will of course form on the under side, and care must be taken in moving the wine to prevent any admixture of the sediment therewith. Wines, Choice of. The choice of wines, in laying in a stock, is a matter of considerable difficulty, particularly to the inexperienced. A habit of tasting the superior wines will alone give the palate the power of discriminating minute differences in the aroma and bouquet of the choice kinds. But a very correct taste in wine is a rare quality ; and there is sometimes a good deal of pretension in passing a judgment upon them. The particular impression on the sense of taste is also liable to be affected by the state of bodily health at the time, or by the last substance taken into the mouth. Thus, wine after sweetmeats and fruits frequently tastes harsh; whereas after made dishes and cheese wines sometimes appear better than they really are. The first object to be considered, next to the taste, from which the purchaser must judge for himself, is whether the wine is pure and the genuine production of the country whose name it bears ; and whether or not it is adulterated with any foreign substance. To distingiiish this accurately, in many cases, requires great experience and a very nice palate. It is even said that few persons, except the manufacturers themselves, are judges sufficiently experienced to distinguish and appreciate the different growths of their own territory; and that even these cannot estimate properly the wines of another district. Another kind of ability necessary is to be able to distinguish the condition of the wine : whether it is new, and whether it will keep or will be liable to change. Some wines may appear good that will not keep a year ; and others that at first appear indifferent will improve so much bj' keeping as to be in the end excellent. Good wine is most frequently to be found among capitalists, who can afford to buy large quantities in favourable years, and who can select in their stock that which is fittest for bottling at any particular time, not sending out any but what is fit for use, and who have a reputation to keep up. It is scarcely necessary to add that there are few articles of domestic consumption in which there are more frauds practised than in wine, or in which more money may be thrown away for want of good management : to say nothing of the pleasure it affords every one to place good wine before his guests, or the danger of injuring their healths by offering them what is prejudicial. Webster and Parkes. Wines, Diseases of. By "diseases of wines "we must understand those conditions in which wines have become so altered and unfitted for use as to have lost their distinct character. The chief diseases are as follows : 1. The Turning of Wine. This is a disease which attacks young wine, and seems to occur under special conditions of the weather. The colour grows darker, and the taste first disappears, and if the disease continues becomes disagreeable ; the wine becomes turbid and acid. This disease arises from a decomposition of tartar. 2. The liopiness of Wine. This disease consists in the formation of vegetable mucus from the sugar of the wine, and is known as mucous fermentation. The wines liable to this change are those which are deficient in tannic acid. 3. The Bitterness of Wine. In this we have a disease to which Burgundy wines are specially liable. It appears to arise from a second fermentation, inasmuch as a large quantity of carbonic acid is evolved. It haa been ascribed by some to the fomiation of citric ether, which is very bitter. The disease is caused by the sediment, and is often put a stop to by drawing the wine off into other casks. 4. Th? Acidifying of Wine. This depends upon the conversion of the alcohol into acetic acid, and may be nipped in the bud by adding alkaline carbonates ; which, however, destroy the colour and affect the taste of the wine. 5. The Mouldiness of Wine. In this disease mould-plants are produced on the surface of the wine. How and under what condition the mould is formed is uncertain ; all that is known is that the admission of air is favourable to the disease. Wines, Effervescing. If wines are bottled before the fermentation is over, the carbonic acid is retained in the wine, and what is called an "effervescing" wine is produced. Certain kinds of wine are more favourable than others to this jjrocess; and in all countries effervescing wines are produced. In this country wo are most famiUar with the effervescing wines of France, which are generally known under the name of champagne. Hocks, moselles, and even red wines are treated thus ; and, on the cork being removed from the bottle, the carbonic acid begins to escape, and give+ them their sparkling effervescent character. When such wines contain much sugar, the fermentation in the bottle is arrested before all the sugar is consmned, and they are sweet effervescing wines. In other cases the sugar is all exhausted in producing the carbonic acid, and such wines are then said to be dry. Sparkling or cffei-vescing wines are agreeable to the palate, and in the same way as bottled ales they semetimes appear to assist the digestion of the food with which they are taken. In some cases, however, there can be no doubt that they produce injury. When new, thw communicate the state of change in which they are to the contents of the stomach, and interfere with the healthy process of digestion. ,They arc less liable to disagree when they ai'C diy and contain but little sugar than when ?hcy contain much of this substance. The quantity of sugar varies in champagne from ope hundrc d grains in the pint to considerably above an omicc. WIN ( m ) WIN Wines, Home-made . Home-made wiues ?differ chiefly from foreign or grape wines in ?containing a much greater quantity of malic acid, whilst the wine of the grape contains ?chiefly tai'tareous; for it is the presence of super-tartrate of potash by which the grape is most strongly distinguished from all the other sub-acid fruits applied to the purposes of winemaking. This s;ilt is most abundant in the grape before ripening, and a portion of it disappears diu-ing this process. A consideration of this diversity led Dr. MaccuUoch to point out to the public the useful practice of introducing super-tartrate of potash into all those juices of fruits which are intended for the basis of homemade wines. This salt is doubtless decomposed ?during the fermentative processes, and a considerable quantity of what remains is subsequently deposited in the casks or bottles in which the wine is kept, constituting what is termed the crust of the wine. Few of our homemade wines possess an intense colour ; with the exception of the elderberry, mulberry, and the black cherry, scarcely any colour is contained in our domestic fruits. The colouring of home-made wines may be effected by bilbeiTics, mulberries, or the husk of elderberries; these sub.stances impart a fine red colour to vinous fluids ; they are sometimes suffered to ferment with the must, to render the colour more intense. The practice of making wines from the produce of our gardens is deserving of very general attention. Foreign wines are entirely beyond the reach of the poor; and, therefore, the benevolent will endeavour to supply them, in age and sickness, with the best substitutes which our native fruits will afford. The follo%ving domestic fruits are weU calculated for the fabrication of wine : The gooseberry, elderberry, mulberry, raspben-y, blackberry, strawberry, red currant, black currant, white currant, and cranberry. These ferments will afford good and wholesome wines. It is a vulgar prejudice to suppose that the wines made from our domestic fruits are unwhole- some. They may disagree with the constitutions of some persons, but no fact can wan-ant the assertion that they are more injurious than wines made from the grape. The pulpy fruits of our gardens, such as the peach, nectarine, plum, cherrj', damson, and apricot, may also be employed; but, upon the whole, they answer not so well for the fabrication of wines as the domestic sub-acid esculent berries. The gooseberry and currant are, of all other fruits, most commonly employed in the fabrication of home-made wines ; and, on the whole, they are best adapted for the purpose. When used in their green state, both gooseberry and currant may be made to form light brisk wines, falling little short of champagne. Eipe gooseberries are capable of makingsweet or (try wines; but these are commonly ill-flavoured, particularly if the husk has not been carefully excluded. Ripe currants, if properly managed, make much better wines than goosebei-ries. These fruits are much improved, according to Dr. Macculloch, by boiling previously to fermentation. This, he states, is particularly the case with the black currant, which, when thus managed, is capable of making a wine closely resembling some of the best of the sweet Cape wines. The strawberry and raspberry are capable of making both dry and sweet wines of agreeable quality. , The elderberry is capable of making an excellent red wine. Its cheapness also recommends it. It does not, indeed, possess any great degree of flavour, but it possesses no bad one, which is a negative property often of great importance in artificial wine-making. The cherry jjroduces a wine of no very peculiar character. If used, care should be taken not to bruise too many of the stones, otherwise a disagi-eeable bitter taste will be imparted to the wine. The blackberry and mulberry are capable of making coloured wines, if managed with that view : they are deficient, however, in the astringent principle ; nevertheless, they may be occasionally employed with advantage when a particular object is to be gained. The sloe and damson are so associated in qualities that nearly the same results are obtained from both. Their juice is acid and astringent, and hence they are qualified only for making dry wines. By a due admixture of currants or elderberries with sloes or damsons, wines not unlike the inferior kinds of port are often produced. Grapes, of British growth, are capable of making excellent sparkling and other wines by the addition of sugar. The grapes may be used in any state, however immature ; when even but half-grown and perfectly "hard they succeed perfectly. Raisins are extensively used in this country for making domestic wines, therefore they deserve to be .mentioned here. When properly managed, they are capable of making a pure and flavourless vinous fluid, well. adapted for receiving any flavour which may be required, and thus of imitating many -wines of foreign growth. The orange and lemon are likewise used for making domestic wines. Upon the whole, however, they are not very well adapted for the purpose, as they contain too little acid and too little of the extractive or fermentative juice. The quince, from its analogy to the apple and pear, is better qualified for making a species of cider than wine. The following is the art of making wine from native fruits. We start upon the grounds that home-made wines are intended to be imitations of foreign wines. In the first place, therefore, we have to prepare a juice or must similar to the juice or must of the grape in its general composition. Now, no fruit whatever j-ields a juice precisely similar to that of the grape. In our northern climate, more especially, the saccharine principle, which is the fundamental basis in wine-making, exists in verj- minute proportion in most fruits. It must be, therefore, supplied artificially. The tartaric acid, or rather super-tartrate of potash, which is another essential principle in wine-making, is likewise wanting in most of our fruits. This, therefore, must be supplied. On the contrary. WIN ( "42 ) WIN other substances, and particularly the malic acid, exist in too large a proportion in most of our fruits, which, in their natural state, are thus better adapted for making cider than wine. To get rid of the malic acid, and to prevent its deteriorating effects, as well as the deteriorating effects of other foreign princijilcs, is difficult, or perhaps impossible ; and this will doubtless always render home-made wines inferior to those of the grape, though very near approaches may be made by judicious management. The practical mode of obviating these difficulties is to dilute the juice of the fruit to such a degree that a given quantity of it shall contain no more of the malic acid, for example, than a given quantity of the juice of the grape ; and, as before observed, to supply artificially the two gi-and principles, sugar- and supertartrate of potash, which are wanting. Having thus prepared an artificial must as nearly resembling in its composition that of the grapes as possible, the application of the other principles win be obvious, as we have nothing to do but to manage, in general, aU the subsequent processes precisely as if we were operating upon the must of the grape. In manufacturing wine from grapes different methods are pursued according to the kinds of wine which it is intended to make. Now the same thing holds good in manirfacturing homemade wines ; it is absolutely necessary that the maker should determine beforehand upon the kind of wine which it is his object to produce, and to modify his processes accordingly. We may, with Dr. Macculloch, consider wines as of four general descriptions : sweet wines ; sparkling or effervcscmg wines; drif and light wines, analogous to hock and Rhenish, in which the saccharine principle is entirely decomposed dui-ing fermentation ; and lastly, dry and strong wines, as madeira and sherry. Those of the first and most simple class are the sweet wines, or those in which the fermentative process has been incomplete. It is to this class that by far the greater number of our home-made wines bear the greatest resemblance ; a resemblance, says Dr. Macculloch, so general, as to show that few makers of this article possess sufficient knowledge of the art to enable them to steer clear of what may be firmly called a radical defect of domestic wines ; for so large a quantity of sugar is often added in proportion to the juice of the fruits, that the quantity of natural leaven, or fermentative matter, in the compound, is insuffioient for the conversion of the sugar into wine; hence that jiart of it which remains imdecomposed is siveet. The use of the artificial leaven, yeast, may in some measure correct this defect, but the quantity added is generally inadequate to this object. "The addition of brandy," says Dr. Maccvdloch, " so often recommended in the recipes for making fruit wines, so far from checking the wine from becoming sour, increases it ; the tendency, and therefore the use of brandy as a preservative of wine, is founded on error. Dr. Macculloch recommends a certain proportion of crude tartar ; the dose of which may vaxy from one to six per cent, without materially affecting the wine, as a great proportion of ?what escapes decomposition will be subsequently deposited. All fruits except the grape will require more or less of this salt. In the manufactirre of home-made wines, care therefore should be taken not to use too small a proportion of fruit compared with the sugaiemployed ; for it is in this circumstance chiefly which renders the fermentative process incomplete, and thus imparts that sweet and mawkish taste to our domestic wines which renders them intolerable to many people, and even perhaps to all, without the addition of brandy. The strength of the wine is alwaj's proportional to the quantity of sugar employed, provided that sugar has been completely decomposed ; the most saccharine juices, therefore, afford the strongest wine; or, in the practice which is necessary in making wine from native fruits, that fluid will produce the strongest wine to which the greatest quantity of sugar has been added previously to fermen- tation, care being always taken to increase the quantity of leaven in such a ratio as to insure the complete decomposition of the sugar, without which the produce gains in sweetness only vidthout acquiring additional strength. But even with this precaution there is a limit to the quantity of sugar that can be employed, and this limit is ob\aously the proportion of water which is required to insure the fei-mcnting process. The fermentation must continue the longer if it is desired that the produce shall be a dry wine, and for a less time if it is wished to produce a sweet wine. But if, on the contrary, it is the wish of the operator to presei'\'e the flavour or bouquet of the wine, it is necessary that the period of the fermentation should be shortened. The case will be precisely the samtr if it is an object to have a brisk wine, as the carbonic acid, on which this quality exclusively depends, wiU be dissipated iiTccoverably by an undue protraction of the fermenting process. Ace urn . Wines, Keeping of. Wine is put into bottles for the sake of keeping it, and the placing these bottles in some safe and convenient place called a cellar is technically called cellaring. Some wanes are not much improved by bottling at all, and these one may (b'ink direct from the cask. In wine countries it is not uncommon to drink the wine directly from the cask as we do beer. This is more especially done with the weaker and cheaper wuies, and wine is occasionally thus consumed in this country. "Wine from the wood is sold in some of our wine shops. Inferior red wdnes, sherries, and marsala, are said to improve more whilst on tap in the cask than when bottled. Weak wines cannot be kept long in the cask without a danger of the oxygen of the air converting their hydrated oxide of ethyle (alcohol) into the hydrated tri-oxide of acetyle (vinegar), which is a result very much to be avoided by those who attach importance to the flavour or strength of their wines. Wine in casks gets altered by the evaporation of the water and the alcohol into the aii', and also by the absorption of one or the other by the wood. These changes cannot happen when the wimis put into glass bottles. Wine can thus be kept longer in bottles without change than in wo?d. There is a notion that wine gets strongei WIN ( 1143 ) WIN by keeping, but this is erroneous. If fermentation goes on, a little more sugar will bo converted into alcohol, but this is not large, even in the case of effervescing wines. It is, therefore, a false notion that wine gets stronger by keeping. Sti-ong wines undoubtedly keep best. Wines get altered by keeping, and they get weaker by keeping. They should not be kept in hot cellars, nor cold cellars, nor cellars with a changeable temperature. It appears that a uniform temperature of between 50' and 60" is the best for aU kinds of wine. Wines are said to ripen. sooner in warm cellars than in cold ones, and it is very certain that new wines may be made to assume the flavour of old ones by exposing them to high temperatures, and letting them cool again. This, however, belongs to the art of doctoring." Br. Lankestcr. The art of preserving wines is to prevent them from fretting, which is done by keeping them in the same degree of heat and careful working in a cellar where they will not be agitated by the motion of carriages passing. If persons wish to preserve the fine flavour of their wines, they ought on no account to permit any bacon, cheese, onions, pork, or cider in the wine cellars ; for if there be any disagreeable odoiir in the cellar, the wine will indubitably imbibe it ; consequently, instead of being fragrant and charming to the nose and palate, it will be extremely disagreeable. Wines, Wholesomeness of. Wines may be resolved into two great divisions ; into those whieh are coloured, and commonly caUed red wines, and those which have a yellow tinge, more or less deep, termed tvhite wines. This colouring matter is not derived from the juice, but from the husk of the grapes. If, therefore, the fermentation be not permitted to take place in contact with the husks, a colourless wine is in all cases produced. This colouring matter is highly astringent, and consequently the red wines dift'er from the white in their effects upon the stomach ; and yet it is difficult to explain the well-known e. tent of this operation by the presence of so small a proportion of active matter. It must, however, be remembered that irritable stomachs are frequently impatient of astringent matter. Many persons are incapable of driuking port wine, in consequence of the heartburn it occasions ; while others, on the contrary, appear to derive advantage from the tonic influence of its s)mgency. This is a circumstance of idiosyncracy which no theory can explain. A popular writer remarks, " When my stomach is not in good temper, it generally desires to have red wine ; but when in best health nothing affronts it more than to put port into it ; and one of the first syTiiptoms of its coming into adjustment is a wish for white wine. Every physician is practically aware of the caprice which the stomach displays in its morbid conditions ; but as a general rule it may be stated that white deserves a preference over red wines, because the latter being pressed and subjected to a stronger fermentation to extract the colouring principle from the husk are necessarily more loaded with extractive and as tringent matter ; and as this remains in the stomach after the liquid portion of the wiae is absorbed, it will be liable to occasion disturbance. " It is a fact not easUy explained that the stomach is frequently outraged by a wine to which it has not been accustomed; and it ie equally true that a mixture of different wines is a common source of indigestion. The custom of mixing wine with water has its advantages as well as its evils. By dilution it frequently proves too little stimulant to th(; stomach, and runs into a state of acesoency. An invalid is also thus liable to deceive himself by ttiking more wine than may be consistent with his weMai-e. Much, however, depends upon the quality of the wine taken ; the lighter wines cannot require dilution, while port is certainly rendered less injurious by the admixture. Winged Game, Sauce for. Take a quarter of a pint of the gravy wliich runs from the birds, put it into a saucepan, with a clove of garlic, a few peppercorns, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of salad-oil, and the thin rind of a quarter of a Seville orange cut into strips. Boil the gravy tiU it is pleasantly flavoured, skim and strain it, add a glassful of wine, and salt to taste, and serve. Time to boil the gravy, about quarter of an hour. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Winter, Butter Preserved for use in. Work some good butter, which is neithcistrong nor rank, with cold water till it is perfectly free from milk. Mix thoroughly a quarter of a pound of powdered saltpetre with an equal quantity of powdered white sugar and half a pound of common salt. Work an oimce of this mixture into each pound of butter, pack it closely in stone jars, and fasten it down. If not exposed to the air, it will keep good for a long time. Winter Cheesecakes {see Cheesecakes. Winter). Winter Hotch Potch. Soak threequarters of a pound of dried green peas overnight, then boil them till tender, and pulp them through a sieve. Take from three to fompounds of the best end of the neck or loin of mutton, or of the thick flank of beef. Eithei cut the meat into neat pieces or keep it whok. as preferred. Grate four carrots, and cut as many turnips into small dice. Put them, with a few sticks of celery and a large onion, or a leek and a bunch of parsley, into a stcwpan. pour over them about four quarts of water, and bring them gently to the boil. Put in the meat, add pepper and salt, and simmer all gently together for about two hours. Add the pulped peas, boil quarter of an hour longei-, and serve. If liked, a cabbage, finely shred, may be added to the other vegetables. The meat may either be served with the [soup or on a separate dish. If Mked, it may be taken out when it is done enough, and put aside till it is to he served, then heated again in a little of the soup. Rice or pearl barlej' may be substituted for the peas. Time, two hours to stew the vegetables. Probable cost, 4s. SuflScient for eight or tea persons. WIN ( 1144 ) WIN Winter Hotch-Potch (another way). This dish may either be made of fresh beef or of a neck or back ribs of mutton, or of a mixture of both. Cut four pounds of meat into neat pieces. Boil and skim well, add carrots and turnips sliced, small leeks and parsley cut down, and some German greens shred ; and, if tender, put in only half an hour before the soup is completed. Season with pepper and salt. The quantity of vegetables must be regulated by the quantity of meat, so that the soup may have consistency, but not be disagi-oeably thick. Serve the meat and soup together. Rice or dry but melting green peas may, if liked, be boiled in the soup. Winter Jelly, Mosaic Boil half a pint of cream. When it boils, infuse the peel either of an orange or of a lemon, according as you wish to decorate the jelly with either. When the crcam has imbibed the flavour of the fruit, put in a little sugar. Break the yolks of four eggs, which beat \dth the cream, lay it on the fire to thicken, and then put in some isinglass that has previously been melted. Strain the whole through a hair sieve, and put it in a basin, well covered, on some ice, in order that it may get quite firm. Now take the mould which you intend to use, brush it lightly with oil all over the inside, and then cut the white cream jolly with a knife in the first place, and next with small tin cutters. Decorate the mould without jiutting it on ice, for the damp would prevent the decoration from sticking on. Decorate the bottom first, next the sides ; then only put the mould over ice. Now pour a little orange jelly lightly, not to injure the decoration, and let it get thick. When the orange jelly ia frozen, thrust the mould deeper into the ice ; tlien put a little more jelly to the height of the lower decoration on the sides ; let the preparation be made firm again. Mind, the .jelly is never to come higher than the flowerets till the bottom has been first made firm, then gradually ascend to the top. Cover and surround tho moidd with ice. When you wish to serve up, dip a towel into some hot water, and rub the mould aU round. Ascertain that none of the jolly sticks to the sides before you meddle with the bottom of the mould ; then rub the bottom with the hot towel, and turn the jelly neatly into a dish. Were it not for all these precautions, the two colours would melt and mix with one another. This jelly looks beautiful when well made. N.B. It is to be observed, that this jelly can only be made in winter, hence its name ; for during the summer season it would melt, except made hard, then it would not be good ; however, you may work it in a very cold place. Vdi. Winter Salad, Endive with (see Endive with Winter Salad). Winter Salads. In winter-time excellent salad.s may be made with endive, celery, beetroot, scraped horseradish, boiled potatoes, or whatever vegetables are available. A pretty efl'ect may be produced by contrasting the different colours of the ingredients. Two or three recipes are given for the preparation of a dish which may be varied in. numberless ways. No. 1 . Wash thoroughly in two or three waters a head of endive and another of celery. Dry them perfectly, and put with them a small proportion of red cabbage finely shred, and some mustard and cress, if it is to be had. Rub the inside of a salad bowl with a slice of fresh onion, put in the mixed vegetables, toss them lightly in good salad sauce, garnish the salad with slices of boiled beetroot, and serve. No. 2. Wash a head of endive, dry it perfectly, and shred it finely. Place it in the centre of a dish, and arrange neatly round it, first, a little red cabbage, and then some white celerj- cut up small. Garnish the salad with sliced beetroot and hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters lengthwise. Send the sauce to table in a boat, and mix it with the salad at tho moment of serving. No. 3. Take equal portions of pickled cabbage, fresh celerj', and cold boiled potato one pound of each. Cut the celery into small pieces, throw it into boiling water for ten minutes, and drain it. Drain the cabbage from its vinegar, mix it with the celery, and add the cold boiled potatoes thinly sliced. Pepper the salad, toss it lightly in three table-spoonfuls of good Lucca oil, add a table-spoonful of chopped tarragon leaves, and serve. No. 4. Boil some small onions ; let them get cold, then place them at the bottom of a salad bowl, and put roimd them three or four gherkins chopped small. Cover with pieces of herring or anchovy, and add a liberal allowance of pickled tunny or salmon. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of bruised capers over the salad, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise, and olives from which the kernels have been removed. Serve a good sauce with the salad. Cold boiled potatoes, brussels sprouts, endive, or celerj-, will be a valuable addition. Beetroot and raw apijles may also be added. No. 5. Procure two heads of celery ; wash and dry them, and cut the wliito stalks into pieces an inch long. Toss them lightly in a salad bowl with some mayonnaise sauce. Cover the surface with hard-boiled yolk of egg which has been rubbed through a wire sieve ; sprinkle a tea-spoonful of chopped green parsley over the egg, and garnish the celery with a border of boiled beetroot, cut into thin strips and aiTanged like trellis-work. Two or three black trufiles, chopped small and sprinkled over the egg yoUf, wiU have a very good appearance and improve the flavour of the salad. German sausage or pink ham, thinly sliced, may be served round the salad. Cold dressed vegetables, finely shred, and seasoned with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, may be served as a salad [see also Russian Salad). Winter Snow. Take the white of six eggs, which will be enough lor an entremet ; whip them till they get thick ; have some milk boiling over the fire in a large stewpan ; poach several spoonfuls of the whites in it, and when done enough, drain and dish them. Next, make a sauce to pour over them in the following manner : take some of the milk in which you have poached your eggs, then put a little sugar, a little orange-flower, and a little salt ; mix the yolks of four- eggs with the same, stir WIN ( 1145 ) WOO the whole on the fire till the milk is made thick, put it through a tammy, and mask the neiges with that sauce. Winter Soup. Break into small pieces the bones of a joint of dressed beef which weighed six or seven pounds before it was roasted. Put these into a stewpan, pour over them four quarts of cold water, or the liquor in which fresh beef or mutton has been boiled, and add two large onions sliced, a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, and a dessert- spoonful of salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, draw it back, and let it simmer gently till the bones are quite clean. Strain the liquor, let it go cold, and free it entirely from fat. Wash and scrape eight large carrots. Slice the red part only verj thinly. Put the slices into a stewpan with three or four sticks of celery cut up small, and a turnip cut into dice. Place a large lump of dripping or fresh butter upon the vegetables, cover the saucepan closely, and steam the vegetables for quarter of an hour or more. Shake the saucepan occasionally to keep them from burning. Pour over them as much of the stock from the bones as will cover them, and let them simmer tiU quite tender. Rub them through a hair sieve. Add to the pulp aa much stock as wiU make the soup of the consistency of thick cream ; let it boil again, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve veiy hot. Very small suet dumplings, lightly made and boiled separately in water, are sometimes served in winter soups. Time, four hours to simmer the bones. Probable cost, exclusive of the bones, lOd. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Winter Soup, Clear. Make some clear soup, either from bones or from fresh meat {see Clear Soup). Cut the red part of two large carrots and a turnip into quarter-inch dice. Divide two white stalks of celery into shreds, and skin a dozen button-onions. Half boil the vegetables in salted water to which a little sugar has been added. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with about three pints of the clear stock, boiling. Let them simmer tiU tender, and serve. Winter Squash. The squash is a kind of gourd, which is cultivated in America as an article of food. To dress it, pare a large yellow squash, remove the strings and seeds from the inside, and cut it into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan, pour upon them as much hot water as will cover them, and simmer gently till tender. Drain them in a colander, and mash them till quite smooth. Season the mash with pepper and salt, and mix a slice of fresh butter into it. Put it into a tureen, dot it over with small spots of pepper, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve. Time to simmer the squash, half an hour or more. Winter Squash, (an American recipe). Winter squashes are stewed in the same way as others, but they must remain on the fire a little longer. Gut up the squashes in pieces of an inch thick, having first pared the squash ; if old, extract the seeds and boil the pieces until they break, mash them with a spoon, boil them a little longer, and when they are done squeeze them through a colander. Mix them with a little salt aud a small quantity of butter. If kept in a dry place winter squashes will remain good all tiie winter, but if they are once frozen they lose their fiavour and are apt to decay. They are richer and firmer than the summer kind. Wisdom Soup. Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a pound of mutton, cut and hacked all to pieces, put it into two gallons of water with an old cock beat to pieces, a piece of carrot, the upper crust of a penny loaf toasted very crisp, a little bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a tea-spoonful of black and one of white pepper, four or five blades of mace, and four cloves ; cover it and stew over a slow fiire until half is wasted, then strain it off and put it into a clean saucepan with two or three large spoonfuls of raspings clean sifted, half an ounce of trufSes and morels, three or four heads of celery cut small, an ox's palate first boiled tender and cut into small pieces, a few cocks'combs, and a few of the little hearts of young savoys ; cover it close, and let it simmer very softly over a slow fire two hours ; then have ready a French roU fried, and a few forcemeat balls fried, put them in your dish and pour in your soup. You may boil a leg of veal, and a leg of beef, and as many fine things as you Uke, but this is likely to be rich and high enough. You may leave out the cocks'-combs, palates, and truffles, &c., if you don't like them it will be good soup 'without them ; and if you would have your soup very clear don't put in the raspings. Vermicelli is good in it an ounce put in just before you take it up ; let it boil four or five minutes. You may make this soup of beef or veal alone, just as you fancy. A leg of beef will do without either veal, mutton, or fowl. Ude. Witches, Bermuda {see Bermuda Witches). Wolfram Ketchup. Into two gallons of very stale ale the stronger the better put a pound and a half of anchovies washed and cleansed from the entrails, half an ounce of mace, the same quantity of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the same quantity of long pepper, four chillies, half a dozen lumps of ginger, a pound of shallots, six lumps of sugar, and two quarts and a haK of large mushrooms well rubbed and picked. Boil all this slowly in a well-tinned stewpai during an hour, then run the liquor through a jelly-bag. Let it stand tintil cold, then bottle it, cork the bottles well, tie a bit of bladder over each cork, and cover the bladder with sealing-wax. This is the most delicious of fish sauces, and one tablespoonful of it will suffice for a pint of melted butter. This ketchup will keep good more than twenty years. Wonders. These cakes are made thus: Take one table-spoonful of butter, one of sugar, one egg, and a little spice. Mix stiff with flour, and boil in lard. Wood, Bread made from. That it is i ossiblo to make a palatable and nutritious bread from the dry ligneous part of wood, was shown many years ago by Professor Autenrietb. woo ( 1146 ) WOO of Tubingen. The following is his process, as wc find it stated by Dr. Prout, in the " Philosophical Transactions" for 1827: "Inthelirst place, everything that was soluble in water was removed by frequent maceration and boiling. The wood was then reduced to a minute state of division that is to say, not merely into fine fibres, but actual powder ; and after being repeatedly subjected to the heat of an oven, was ground in the manner of corn. Wood thus prepared, according to the author, acquires the taste and smeU of corn-floui-. , It is, however, never very white, but always of a yellowish colour. It also agrees with corn-flour in this respect, that it does not ferment without the addition of leaven, and in this ease some leaven of corn-flour is found to answer best. With this it makes a perfectly uniform and spongy bread, and when it is thoroughly baked and has much crust, it has a much better taste of bread than what is made in times of scarcity, prepared from the bran and husks of com. Wood-flour, also, boiled in water, forms a thick, tough, trembling jelly, like that of wheat starch, and which is very nutritious." Woodcock. Woodcocks, like snipe, are only good when they are fat. They are cooked but in a very few ways. The most delicate parts are the legs and the intestines. The ffllets of woodcocks, for those persons who do not like their moat underdone, are tough, and without savour. They are held in high estinaatiort -when roasted or en salmi (as a hash). A puree of woodcocks is also served occasionally. They may, however, be dressed in as many ways as young partridges. When roasted, you must always put a toast under tbem to receive the intestines, which generally drop out while roasting unless paper is used to secure them. Take care to stop the spit when the back is towards the fire, because the legs are to be well done and the fillets underdone. Tide. . THE WOODCOCK Woodcock (a la Lucullus). Roast the woodcocks in the usual way, and catch the trail on a toast. Take the birds up when they are still under-di-essed, pour over them a little melted butter with which the yolk of an egg and a little cream has been mixed, s-prinkle grated bread-crumbs lightly over them, brown them in a Dutch oven or with a salamander, and serve with brown gra\'y. Time to roast the woodcocks, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Woodcock (a la Perigueux). Truss three woodcocks, cover them with layers of bacon, and tie these on securely with string. Put them into a stewpan, pour over them as much richly-flavoured stock as will barely cover them, and add a glassfid of sherry or madeira. Let them simmer gently tiU done enough. Drain them, and remove the tapes. Put them on a dish, pour over them some Perigueux or truffle sauce, and serve. Woodcock, Chand Proid of. Truss four woodcocks, and to keep them from acquiring any colour, wrap them in buttered writing-paper. Eoast before a clear fire, let them get cold, and cut them into neat joints. Make a little highly-seasoned and stifily-reduced allemande sauce. Cover the joints of woodcock evenly with this, and put them on a dish in a cold place till it is set. Put in the centre of a dish a block of fried bread three inches high and an inch and a half across. Place the woodcock round this in a pyramidal form, and ornament the dish with aspic jelly. Woodcock, Devilled. Divide a brace of under-dressed woodcocks into neat joints, and scixson the pieces with a savoury powder made in the proportion of a tea-spoonful of salt to a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroompowder. Split the heads, take out the brains and put them in a basin with the trail, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, the grated rind of half a lemon, a pinch of pounded mace, and a tablespoonful of soy. Rub the mixture with the back of a wooden spoon tUl it is smooth, and add the juice of two fSeville oranges, a tablespoonful of ketchui), and a glassful of madeira or sherry. Put the sauce with the birds into a silver dish over a spirit lamp, stir occasionally, and simmer gently tiU it is very hot and the flesh has become thoroughly impregnated with the liquor. Stir in quickly a dessert-spoonful of salad oil, and serve immediately. Woodcock, Fillets of. Take sbc woodcocks, cut neatly the fillets from each side of the breast and the slices from the sides. Season them all with pepper and salt. Put the large fillets into a saucepan, pour claiifled butter over them, cover with a round of buttered paper, and let them cook gently tUl done enough. Put the small fillets into a buttered baking-dish, place a little piece of truffle upon each, and bake in a gentle oven. Arrange the fillets neatly in a circle on a dish, put a little truflae puree in the centre, and serve with brown gravy in a boat. Woodcock, Gravy for. Plain melted butter or gravy is generally served with woodcocks. It should be put in a tureen, as if it were poured into the di with the birds, it woo ( 1147 ) WOO "woiild destroy their flavour. A sauce prepared as follows may, if preferred, be sent to table with, the birds. Put a tea-cupful of veal stock into a saucepan with a small onion, two inches of thin Icmon-rind, and five or six leaves of basil. Let the gravy simmer for a few minutes, then strain it. Put with it the juice of a Seville orange or of a lemon, a glassful of claret, and a little salt and cayenne. Make it hot, and serve immediately. Woodcock, Gravy for (another way). See Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeon, Snipes, Woodcocks, &c. Woodcock, Marinaded [see Grouse or Woodcock, Marinaded). Woodcock Pie (to be eaten cold) . Line the edges of a dish with good puff -paste. Put a slice of lean veal well seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace at the bottom, and on this place a slice of thin lean ham. Pluck four woodcocks carefully, so as not to injure the tender flesh. Do not open them, but season with pepper, salt, and mace, and cover them with layers of bacon. Pack them closely into the dish, and fill up the empty spaces with hardboiled plovers' or hens' eggs. Pour over them a pint of strong beef gravy, so strong that it will jelly when cold, and cover the dish with pastry. Brush it over with egg, ornament it, and place in the centre two or three of the feet nicely cleaned. Bake the pie in a well-heated oven, until the pastry is done enough. A woodcock pie is considered a rare delicacy, though it is rather an expensive one. Time to bake the pie, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, woodcocks being seldom for sale. Woodcock, Potted. Take any niunber of fresh woodcocks. Pluck them carefully, and ciit oflE their legs and wings. Split the birds in halves, and lay them on a dish. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, and with this exception, leave the inside or trail undisturbed. Line the inside of an ordinary potting-pan with thin slices of fat bacon. Fill it with the woodcocks placed neatly and closely in layers upon the bacon, and season each layer with salt and black pepper. WTien the pan is full, pour as much clarified butter over the woodcocks as will cover them, and cover the pan with a coarse paste of flour and water. Make a hole in the top of the Hd, and bake the woodcocks in a moderate oven. They must not be eaten tiU they are quite cold. "V ' lcn a skewer can be pushed easily to the bottom of the pan, the woodcocks are sufiiciently baked. Woodcock, Potted (another way). Pick and clean the bii-ds nicely, but do not draw out the trail ; fix the bills with small skewers to the thighs, and the legs on the breasts ; season them highly with mace, pepper, and salt, and put them into a deep pot with fresh butter to bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, take them out to drain on a sieve, and when cold, place them in pots, and cover them completely with clarified butter. Tie them securely from the air with bladder, and set them in a dry place. Woodcock, Potted (another way). Eub the woodcocks very well with seasoning, then surround each with a coating of butter, and then with a buttered paper, over which put a paste of flour and water. Lay them upon tins, and bake them. Do not take off the crust and paper tiU the woodcocks are cold. Put one in each pot, and cover it with clarified butter. The woodcocks must not be drawn. Woodcock Pudding. Pluck a woodcock very carefully, so as not to injure the tender flesh, and, without opening it, truss it for roasting. Line a pudding-basin with pastry. Put into it a slice of t(;nder rump steak seasoned with pepper and salt only, put in the woodcock, and place another steak over it. Pour over the meat a quarter of a pint of strong beef gravy, cover the basin with pastry, tie it rather loosely in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling tUl done enough. Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, turn it upon a dish, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, an hour and a half. Probable cost, woodcocks, seldom bought. Sufficient for four or five persons. Woodcock Puree (for patties, croustades, &c.). Take the remains of dressed woodcock. Pick the flesh fi-om the bones, and put the skin, bones, and trimmings into a saucepan, pour over them a little stock or water, and add a shallot, a small piece of celery, a sprig of thyme, and tliree or four peppercorns. Let the gTavy simmer gently till it is strong and good. Mince the flesh finely, and pound it in a mortar with a spoonful of stock and a little piece of butter. When reduced to a p lp, rub it through a hair sieve. Strain th? stock, free it entii-ely from fat, and boil tiU it is considerably reduced. Season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and mix with it double the quantity of white sauce. If this is not at hand, a quarter of a pint of cream and a small spoonfiil of flour will answer the same purpose. Put the pulp into the sauce, stir it over the fire till it is hot, and it will be ready for use. Time, an hour and a half or more to simmer the bones. Probable cost, uncertain, woodcocks being seldom bought. Woodcock Raised Pie, Cold. Make some good veal forcemeat. Bone four woodcocks. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a shallot, a small onion, and a sprig of thyme, and cover them with stock. Let them simmer till the gravy is strong and good. Remove the gizzard from the trail, then pound it, and mix it with the forcemeat. Place the woodcocks, skin downwards, open upon a board, spread over them first a layer of forcemeat, then two or three sliced truffles, and another layer of forcemeat. Fold the skin over, and restore the bird to something of its original shape. Line a pie-mould with pastrA' {see Raised Pies). Put a layer of forcemeat at the bottom, place two woodcocks on this, cover th?m with a few slices of truffle and a thin layer of forcemeat, put in the other two woodcocks with a little more truffle and another layer of forcemeat, and place some thin slices of fat bacon over all. Cover the pie, and finish in the usual way. Bake in a moderate oven. Half an hour after it has been taken out of the oven, pour into it a little of the gravy from the woo ( 1148 ) WOO bones, wHcb should be strong enough to form a jelly when cold (see Raised Pies of Game and Poultry). Close the hole in the cover, and when the pie is cold, serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Woodcock Raised Pie, Hot. Pic pare some forcemeat as in the last recipe. Divide four woodcocks into quarters. Line a pie-mould with pastry {see Raised Pies), and fill it with alternate layers of forcemeat and pieces of woodcock. Cover it, and bake in a moderate oven. Take it out, pour into it some good brown sauce made of the trimmings of the woodcock stewed in beef gravy. Serve hot upon a dish covered with a napkin. If liked, a hollow place may be left in the centre of the pie, into which a piece of the crumb of bread, covered with fat bacon, may be put, whilst the pie is being baked. When done enough, this hollow may be filled with sliced truffles mixed in brown sauce. Woodcock, Roast. Pluck the woodcocks carefidly, neck and head as well. Do not open them, but truss them securely {see Woodcocks, To Truss). Fasten them feet downwards to a spit, put them down to a brisk clear fire, flour them, and baste liberally with dripping or butter. When they have been down about five minutes, put a buttered toast, free from crust, under them, to catch the droppings from the trail. After this is done, hold a dish under them when they are basted. When the steam draws to the fire, they are done enough. Dish them with a piece of toast under each, and garnish with watercresaes. Send melted butter or orange gravy to table in a tureen. It is an improvement to cover the woodcocks with slices of bacon before putting them down to the fire, and, when they are to be had, two or three vine-leaves may be laid under the bacon. Time to roast the woodcocks, if liked underdone, fifteen to twenty minutes ; if liked well dressed, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, two for a dish. Woodcock, Roast (another way). There is more art in roasting woodcocks than any other bird of the same size. They require constant attention during the operation of roasting them. As they must be very little dressed the flesh of the woodcock, like that of all dark-fleshed game, being digestible when ahnost raw, and losing its savour if roasted to the same degree as a partridge their cooking occupies but little time; therefore the cook should never leave her woodcocks from the moment they arc put down until she takes them up. Truss without drawing them, and put toast under them to catch the trail, which often falls from them when they are before the fire. The most delicate parts of the woodcock arc the legs and the trail ; next, the breast. As this latter must be very much underdone, and the legs a little better done, to be eatable, there is, of course, an inequality in their roasting, which must bo obviated by stopping the spit for a time whenever the legs are turned towards the fire, in order to give them a greater proportion of heat. The woodcocks when done are served up upon the toast with melted butter only, as their flavour would be deteriorated by any kind of gravy. Woodcock, Salmi of. Take the remains of cold dressed woodcocks, and cut oflt the meat in neat pieces. Place those in a covered dish, and put them aside till wanted. Remove the gizzards from the trail, then chop it fine, and mix with it a spoonful of bread-crumbs, a small slice of butter, and a spoonful of chopped jjarsley. Put this also aside. Scrape a carrot, and put the pulp into a saucepan with two shallots, two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, and half a dozen mushrooms, if liked, but these may be omitted. Pour over the ingredients a pint of gravy, and let them simmer for an hour. Strain the liquor, and free it entirely from fat. Bruise the bones and trimmings of the woodcocks, put them into the strained liquor, and simmer till the}- are quite clean. Take the bones out, and send the gravy and the little pieces of meat that are in it through a sieve, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the pieces of woodcock into a saucepan, pour the gravy over them, and let them heat gently by the side of the fire. Of course they must not boil. Toast one or two slices of crumb of bread, and divide them into five or six pieces of the shape of a heart. Spread the minced trail upon them, and put them in a hot oven for a few minutes. Place the pieces of woodcock on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with the heartshaped croutons. Time, two to three hours. Woodcock, Salmi of (another way). Draw the gravy from a pound of gravy beef with a bit of lean ham, and a sheep's milt added to it. Then take a few shallots, a handful of mushrooms chopped, a few strips of ham, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, such as we have indicated for the salmi of partridges, two cloves, half a dozen of peppercorns, and the same number of blades of allspice. Fry all this for a short time in a stewpan with a little butter, then pour in a quarter of a pint of madeira or sherry, and the gravy above mentioned. Put in also the backs and necks of the birds, leaving the rumps viith the other limbs for the salmi. Let aU this stew very quietly. Season to taste, and at the expiration of a couple of hours strain the sauce. Then put into a stewpan about an ounce and a half of butter, and, when this boils, half a spoonful of flour. Stir the mixtvire as it boils until it has assumed a rich blonde coloiu:; then add gradually the sauce, and let it boil a quarter of an hour longer. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon. If you have the trail, pound it, and mix it well with the sauce. Strain this over the woodcock into another stewpan. This latter must now be stood near the fire, so that it may heat without boiling. WTien the meat is fully penetrated with the sauce, serve it up very hot with fried sippets. As a variation from this mode, red wine may be substituted for white. Woodcock, Salmi of (a la LucuUus). Ude's recipe. I'or this dish you must be particular in having the woodcocks very much underdone; then take out the intestines, and woo ( 1149 ) WOO with the addition of two or thi-oe fat livers of fowls make the following forcemeat : Take half a dozen mushrooms chopped very tine, a shallot and some parsley the same ; fry these herbs in a small bit of butter. When they are nearly done, put the fat, livers, and the intestines of the woodcocks to fry with them, and when done put the whole into a mortar and pound them very iine ; season with salt and pepper, &c. ; rub this through a tammy ; then, as tlii-ee woodcocks give you six fillets, cut six bits of bread of the same shape, fry them of a nice colour, then spread the farce (forcemeat) equally divided over the six pieces of bread, put them into the oven, and when they are a good colour serve them between each of the fillets ; as for the sauce, you make it with the trimmings as usual for salmi : this, well managed, is a delicious dish. The sauce must be made early, so as to keep the fillets in it to prevent them from drying ; then warm them without boiling, for boiling would make the dish good for nothing. Serve the legs in the middle. Woodcock, Scotch, or Woodcock Toast. Take a slice of bread from a moderatesized stale loaf, also three anchovies, one egg, and two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Beat the yolk of the egg, mix it with the cream, and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. Toast the bread, butter well on both sides, and cut it in halves. Wash, scrape, and mince the anchovies, put them between the pieces of toast, pour the cream, &c., over the toast, and serve as hot as possible. Time, five minutes to make the sauce hot. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Woodcock (sportsman's fashion). Truss three woodcocks, and put them down to a clear fire. At the end of a quarter of an hour take them up, and divide them into neat joints. Put the inferior portions into a saucepan, with four minced shallots and a sprig of thyme, and add a wine-glassful of good gravy, another of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the strained juice of half a lemon. Let the gravy simmer for ten minutes. Remove the gizzards from the trail of the woodcocks, and pound them in a mortar, with half a shallot, a slice of fresh butter, and a little pepper and salt. When smooth, rub it through a sieve, and spread it upon some small pieces of fried bread cut into the shape of hearts. Before using these, put them in the oven for two or thi-ee minutes. Put the joints of the woodcocks into a separate saucepan, strain the gravy upon them, and let them heat gently without boiling. Place them on a dish, put the fried bread, with the trail, round them, pour the gravy over all, and serve very hot. Time, quarter of an hour to roast the woodcocks ; ten minutes to simmer the gravy. Woodcock, Spurious. Some years ago a curious deception used to be practised by the inferior poulterers in London upon genuine cockneys, who were ambitious of having game at their tables. " The grey plover was sometimes trussed like a woodcock, its bill cut off, and the bill of a real woodcock inserted instead; the bills of these latter birds being purchased from the cooks of wealthy families." If sudi a deception is ever practised nowadays, the obvious way to discover the fraud would be to give the bill a good tug." Woodcock, Stuffed. Pluck and singe the birds, take out the inside, chop it fine with bacon, parsley, onion, salt, and pepper ; mix it with the yolks of two eggs ; fill the woodcocks with this forcemeat, sew them together, and truss as for roasting. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of bacon, put in the birds, and cover them also with bacon ; let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, pour in a cupful of broth and half a glassful of white wine ; lot it boil over a gentle fire. When done enough, take out the birds and lay them on a dish ; skim the fat off the sauce, strain it, add a dash of vinegar, and pour it over the birds. Woodcock, Stuffed and Roasted. Pluck and draw two woodcocks. Kemove the gizzards, then mince the trail finely with half its weight in fat bacon, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley and a little pepper and salt. A little very finely-minced shallot may be added, if liked. Truss the woodcocks, and roast them in the usual way. Send them to table with gravy in a tureen. Woodcock, Surprised. Put the trail of the cold woodcocks, and two or three fat livers of fowls, upon a plate in readiness. Then chop very fine a dozen mushrooms, two shallots, and a little parsley, and fry them in a stewpan with a small bit of fresh butter. When they are nearly done, put the trail and livers to iry a little with the vegetables. Pound the whole in a marble mortar veiy fine, mixing the several ingredients well together. Season with salt, pepper, and the least possible dash of pounded mixed spice. Now fry of a nice colour six slices of bread of the same size and shape, and spread over them in equal portions the forcemeat you have just made with the trails of the woodcocks and the fowls' livers. Put them into the oven until they are of a good colour, then lay them on a dish, and over them place the limbs of the birds made into a salmi in the usual way, and pour the salmi sauce over the whole. Woodcock, Terrine of {}i-- Dubois's recipe). Bone two woodcocks, divide each of them in two, which pieces put into a pie-dish (terrine) with five or six peeled truffles cut in quarters, the same volume of cooked ham-fat, or fat bacon, in large dice. Season the meat and truffles lightly, and baste with the third part of a glass of madeira. Take off the flesh from a leg of hare, cut it in pieces, fry it in a stewpan, with double its volume of Hver of poultry or game. When well set, add the trails of the woodcocks, then let the whole cool, to be chopped afterwards with a third its volume of lean pork. Season the forcemeat, put it into a mortar, pound, and add to it the same quantity of fresh fat bacon, previously chopped, and pounded with the trimmings of truffles. Season the forcemeat with a pinch of pounded aroinatics ; five minutes aftrr remove it into a kitchen basin, and mix \ ith it the madeira th-i woo ( 1150 ) WRE ?woodcocks have been soaking in. Mask the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with some of the prepared forcemeat, arrange the pieces of woodcocl:, the truffles, and the ham in the c?ntre, alternating with forcemeat. The piedish must then be completely full ; smooth the top with the blade of a knife, and mask it with slices of bacon. Cover the preparation, and set the pio-dish in a saute-pan with a glassful of hot water, and push it into a moderate oven, to bake for an hour and a half. When done, take it out; and when half-cold, put a Hght weight on the top of the preparation. When completely cold, take it off the pie, .cut it in oblong squares, which dish in a cu'cular order into the torrinc. Woodcock, Trussed. Pluck the bird entirely, head and neck included, and very carefully, to avoid tearing the tender skin. Singe off the liairs and cut off the ends of the toes, but do not draw the birds. Twist the legs at the joints to bring the feet upon the thighs. Press the wings to the sides, and turn the head under the wing, with the beak forward. Tie a string round the legs and breast, and pass one also roimd the head and the tip of the bill. Hang the bird to the spit feet-downwards. Wood-hens (Russian fashion). Take three or four wood-hens {fft-linottes), truss them, put them into a stewpan with butter, season, and fry them all o ?e . When about done, baste them with a few table-spoonfuls of sour cream, and finish cooking them, basting frequently. Drain them afterwards, cut each of them into tliroe parts, and dish them up. Mix a little bechamel into the sauce, which reduce until of a good consistence, then pour it over the wood-hens, masking them with a thick coating. Sprinkle over bread-crumbs, let them gratinate in the oven tiU the sauce is slightly coloured. Wood-hens, Pain of (Swedish fashion). Take out the meat fiom the Ijreasts of three wood-hens {fj i'linottcs), pare, pound it in a mortar, and when converted into paste add, by degrees, half its volume of good butter and five or six yolks of eggs. Season the preparation, pass it through a sieve, put it into a kitchen basin, work it with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, then introduce into it the glair of an egg whipped up, and about the same quantity of whipped cream. When well mixed up, poui- the preparation into a timbale mould, and poach at the " bain-marie " for twenty-five minutes. When aboixt to serve turn it out on a di.- h, and mask with a little bechamel sauce, reduced with a few tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze. Dubois. Woodman's Sausages. Take six pounds of young pork, quite free from skin, gristle, or fat, cut it smaE, and beat it fine in a mortar. Chop six pounds of beef suet very fine, shred a handful of sage-leaves fine, sjiread the meat on a clean di-esser, and shake the sage over it ; shred the i-ind of a lemon very fine, and throw it with sweet herbs c n the meat ; grate two nutmegs, to which put a spoonful of pepper and a large spoonful of salt, throw the suet over, and mix all well together ; put it down close in the pot, and when used roll it up with as much egg as wiU mabe it smooth. Wood Pigeons. Wood pigeons should be allowed, to hang till tender before being dressed. They may be roasted, and served like common pigeons. Woodruff. The woodruff is a fragrant little plant, which is found plentifully in woods and shady places. The odour is only perceptible when the leaves are bruised, or when they are dried. Woodruff is used to flavour May wine {see May Wine). Worcester Sauce, To Make. Minco two cloves of shallot, put the mince into a dry bottle, and pour over it a pint of Bordeaux vinegar. Add three table-spoonfuls of essence of anchovy-, three table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of soy, and as much cayenne as is approved: the quantity cannot be given, as cayenne varies so much in quality. Cork ihe bottle, keep it in a cool place, and shake it well twice a day for a fortnight. Strain the sauce, put it in small bottles, cork closely, and store for use. Wormwood Lozenges. Dissolve some gum. tragacanth in water, and mi.K with it a little spirit of wormwood. Add as much powdered loaf sugar as will make a stiff paste, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Roll it out to a sheet of the thickness of a penny-piece, stamp it into diamond-shaped pieces, and dry these ia a cool oven. Wormwood Wine {see Yermoute). Wow Wow Sauce, for Boiled Beef or Bouilli. Wash and pick a handful of parsley, and shred the leaves finely. Put them into a basin, and mix with them three bruised pickled walnuts. Make half a pint of melted butter, using for the purpose the liquor in which the meat was boiled. Put it into a saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir into it a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of port. Simmer the sauce, stirring it all the time, till it is thick. Add the parsley and: the walnuts, simmer the sauce a minute longer, and serve. If liked, pickled cucumbers may be used instead of walnuts, and the flavour of the sauce may be varied by the addition of any of the piquant ?vinegars. Wreaths. Take one pound of flour, five eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, two or three spoonfuls of cream, two ounces of sugar, and a few grains of salt ; make these ingredients into a paste ; roll out and form into rings or wreaths. Roll the wreaths in sugar, and bake on a tin in a slow oven. They may be covered with chopped almonds pressed down a little with the hand. Wreaths, Sugar (a Danish recipe). Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and add four raw ones, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of flour ; knead to a stiff paste ; pull off small jjiecGS, dip each in flour, which roll with the hand and form into rings ; WUR ( 11'31 ) YAR rub the upper part with white of egg. Strew over with coarse-pounded sugar, and bake of a light-brown colour. Sufficient for thirty-six rings or wreaths. Wiirtemburg Sausages. These sausages are made of a mixtm-e of blood, liver, brains, mUk, bread, meat, salt, and spice, which is put into skins, boiled, and smoked. When they are well made, they will keep good for months; but when they are deficient in salt or spice, or when they are smoked too late, or not sufficiently, they undergo a process of putrefaction, which begios at the centre of the sausages, and is poisonous. Yachting Soup. Put an onion stuck ?with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four blades of mace, some pepper and salt, in a gallon of water to boil ; provide two hundred crawfish, reserve about a score, pick the rest from the sheUs, saving the tails whole, beat the body and shells in a mortar with a pint of peas, either dry or green, but boiled tender, add them to the gallon of boiling water, and. after stewing ten or fifteen minutes, or till all the goodness is extracted, strain. Next set it over a slow fire, put in a stale French roll sliced very thin; stew tiU half wasted; put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, shake in two table-spoonfuls of flour, add an onion, and stir about to keep from burning ; put in the tails of the crawfish and a pint of the soup ; let it simmer for five minutes, then take out the onion, fry a French roll bro-wn, also the score of reserved fish, and pour all the soup together, serve up ia a dish, and lay the roll in the middle, with the crawfish around. Be sure to pick out the bags and the woolly part of the crawfish before you poimd them. Yale Boat Pie (an American recipe). Lay three or four pounds of steak from the, under-cut of a round of beef in a middlingsized dish, having seasoned it with pepper and salt. Have a couple of chickens at hand, cut in pieces and seasoned ; place them on . the steak, and over them one dozen and a half of fresh fat oysters without the liquor. Add half a dozen fresh hard-boiled eggs, and after damping the bottom of the dish with half a pint of strong ale, cover the whole with fresh mushrooms, adding to these half a pound of glaze or plain neat's-foot jelly; lay over the dish a substantial paste, and bake "in a brisk oven. This pie is excellent for a picnic or water excursion. Yam. The yam is a slender herbaceous vine, having large tuberous roots, which are much used as food in Africa and the East and West Indies. They are mealy, and thought easy of digestion, are palatable, and not inferior to any roots now in use either for delicacy of flavour or nutriment. They are eaten either roasted or boiled, and the flour is also made into bread and puddings. There are many varieties of the roots, some spreading out like the fingers, others twisted like a serpent ; others again are very small, scarcely weighing more than a pound, with a whitish ash-coloured bark, whereas the bark is usually black. The flesh of the yam is white or purpUsh, and viscid, but becomes farinaceous or mealy when cooked. " A species of yam {Dioscorea Batatas)," says a writer ih Chambers's Eneyclopcadia, "has recently been brought from the temperate parts of China, where it appears to have been long in cultivation, and is found to succeed well in France. It is hardy eneugh to endure the climate even of Scotland without injury, but the heat of the summer is not sufficiently great and long-continued for its profitable growth, so that in general the plant merely lives, without producing a large tuber. The root is of a verjfine quahty, and attains a very considerable size. The stem requires the support of a pole round which it twines ; the leaves are more elongated and acuminated than those of the West Indian yams; the root strikes perpendicularly down into the ground, and forms its tuber often at a very considerable depth, which is sometimes inconvenient to the cultivator, but this is prevented by putting a slate under it." Yams, American. Yams, when roasted or boiled, form a nutritious and palatable c rticle of food. They are excellent prepared as follows : Cut them into slices half an inch thick, and form them into rounds about the size of the top of a tea-cup. Wash, drain, and dry them well, put them into a well-buttered saucepan, and season with a little salt and grated nutmeg. Moisten with water, cover closely, and let them simmer gentlj' till done enough. Turn them over frequently, that they rnay be equally and lightly coloured on both sides. Pile them upon a dish. Pour white sauce, sweetened and flavoured, round them, and serve. Time to simmer the slices, about three-quarters of an hour. Yankee Cakes. Beat a cupful of butter to cream, stir into it an equal quantity of sugar, and add a pinch of salt, a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon grated, two well- whisked eggs, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda which has been dissolved in a cupful of sour milk. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir into the mixture as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Butter or grease a dripping-tin thickly. Beat the cake mixture over the fire for a short time. When it is hot, pour it at once into the tin, and bake the cake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake the cake, half an hour to threequarters. Probable cost, Is. Yankee Pudding Sauce, for Pancakes and Light Puddings. Beat a table-spoonful of fresh butter to cream, and add a small tea-cupful of powdered white sugar, a dessert- spoonful of sherry or brandy, and a little grated nutmeg. Place the mixture on a dish, gi-ate a little orange or lemon-rind upon it, and serve. Yarmouth Bloaters. Cut off the head and tail, open the bloater down the back, and lay it flat. Broii it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve M-ith a little fresh butter and a captain's biscuit, which has been heated in the oven. (See Bloaters). YEA ( 1152 ) YEA Yeast. -Yeast is a substance produced duiing the fermentation of wine, beer, and vegetable juices : it is used to raise dough for bread and cakes, and to make it light and puify. The best yeast is that taken from good brewer's ale, though it is generally too bitter to use without preparation. This yeast, however, cannot always be obtained, and German yeast is frequently used as a substitute. This yeast is excellent when it can be procured fresh and good, and free from the bitter taste to which brewer's yeast is liable : it is frequently offered for sale when unfit for use, especially in hot weather. When neither good brewer's yeast nor fresh German yeast can be procured, yeast made at home may be used as a substitute ; and two or three recipes are given for its preparation. It is scarcely so strong as brewer's yeast, however, and therefore a larger quantity of it will need to be used. Half a pint of solid brewer's yeast will raise fourteen pounds of flour. If the brewer's yeast is thin, a few spoonfuls more will be needed. Yeast (another way) . Boil a small handful of hops in a quart of water for half an hour. Pour it boiling upon a close sieve or colander upon three-quarters of a poirnd of wliite flour. Give it a stir, and let it stand till new-milkwarm, then add a breakfast- cui)ful of yeast from the bakei-'s ; stir again, and let it stand near the fire for twenty -four hours. A pint of this yeast makes twenty-one pounds of flour into bread. By keeping a small quantity of this yeast in a bottle, to add to the new, one may bo quite independent of baker's or brewer's yeast. This yeast will keep a fortnight if either bottled or covered in a jar. Yeast, Baker's. Put two ounces of hops into a saucepan, and pour over them one gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, and keep it boiling, stirring well for one hour. Strain it, and mix with it two pounds of malt. Cover, and leave it till it is the heat of new milk. Stir into it briskly half a pint of solid brewer's yeast, let it work for ten hours, strain thi-Qugh a sieve, and it will be ready for use. Yeast, Bread without. " Some years since," says Miss Acton, in her Bread-book, " when unfermented bread was first becoming known, I had it tried very successfully in the following manner, and I have since been told that an almost similar method of preparing it is common in many parts both of England and Ireland, where it is almost impossible to procure a constant supply of yeast. Blend well together a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar and fifty grains of the purest carbonate of soda ; mix a salt-spoonful of salt with a pound of flour, and rub the soda and sugar through a hair sieve into it. Stir and mingle them well, and make them quickly into a firm but not hard dough with some buttermilk. Bake the loaf well in a thoroughly-heated but not fierce oven. In a brick or in a good iron oven a few minutes less than an hour would be sufiicient to bake a loaf of similar weight. The buttermilk should be kept till it is quite acid, but it must never be in the slightest degree rancid or oth'jrwi'se bad. AU unferaicnted bread should be placed in the oven directly it is made, or it will be heavy. For a large baking allow rather less than an ounce of soda to the gallon (7 lbs.) of flour." Yeast, Brewer's, To prepare for use. Taste the yeast, and if it is very bitter, pour over it a considerable quantity of cold water. Let it stand for twenty-four hours, then pour off the water, when the yeast will be found at the bottom of the vessel quite thick. Taste it again. If it still continues bitter, pour more water over it, and let it stand an hour or two longer. Yeast may be kept covered with cold water for several days. When brewer's yeast does, not appear sufficiently strong, honey or brown sugar may be mixed with it, in the proportion of a tea-spoonful to half a pint. Sufiicient, half a pint of solid brewer's yeast will raise fourteen pounds of flour. If it is thin, a few spoonfuls more will be required. Yeast Cake. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch, of salt. Dissolve quarter of a pound of butter in quarter of a pint of hot milk. Let the mixture cool a little, and when it is newmilk-waxm, stir it into- the flour. Add a small table -spoonful of fresh yeast and two wellbeaten eggs, and knead the preparation till it forms a smooth dough. Make two or three gashes across the surface with a knife, cover the bowl with a cloth, and set the dough in a wann place to rise. When sufficiently light, knead it again with six ounces of currants picked and dried, four ounces of powdered white sugar, one ounce of candied peel cut into thin strips, and a little grated nutmeg. Line a good- sized cake-tin with buttered paper, and let the paper rise four or six inches above the tin. Pour the mixture into it, let the cake rise half an hour longer, and bake in a wellheated oven. Protect the surface of the cake with a sheet of paper whilst it is being baked. Time to bake the cake, about an hour and a haH. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake. Yeast Cake (another way). Mix thoroughly in a bowl two pounds and a half of flour, a pinch of Siilt, and half a pound of Demerara sugar. IVIak- a hollow in the centre of the flour, but do not touch the bottom of the b(jwl. Pour into this hi .i a pint of lukewarm milk which has been mixed with a table-spoonful of fresh yeast. Stir as mmch flour into the milk as will make it of the consistency of batter, sprinkle a little flour on th: surface, throw a cloth over the bowl, and leave it in a warm place for an hour. Melt three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter to oil, and add this to the other ingredients, together with a pound and a quarter of currants picked and di-ied, half a pound of candied peel (lemon, orange, and citron together) finely shred, a quarter of an ounce of grated nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice. Knead the mi.xture thoroughly, and add as much milk as will make a smooth, light dough. Line three moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper, YEA ( 1153 ) YEA three-parts fill them with the mixture, let them rise before the fire for half an hour, and bake in a weU-heated oven. If Uked, this cake may be iced after it is baked. The icing will need to be beaten for about an hour and a haK ; the longer it is beaten the harder it will be {see Sugar Icings and Glazings). Time to bake the cakes, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. each. Yeast Cake, Excellent. Rub one pound of butter into six pounds of flour, and add a tea-spoonful of salt. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, without touching the bottom of the bowl, and pour into this a little more than half a pint of good, fresh, sweet yeast, mixed with half a pint of lukewarm water. Stir into the yeast as much floiu" from the sides as will make a batter, sprinkle flour over the surface, and leave the mixture for an hour, or till the yeast has risen in bubbles through the covering of flour. .Stir into the yeast four weUbeaten eggs, add one pound of fine raw sugar, and knead the whole thoroughly with about half a pint of hot milk. Let this dough stand to rise till it is very light and the siu-face has cracked. Knead it again with three pounds of currants picked and di-ied, and half a pound of candied lemon and orange mixed; add also a little grated nutmeg. Put the cake-mixture into two large tins, well buttered, let it rise before the fire for quarter of an hour, and bake the cakes in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the cakes, three hours. Sufiicient for two large cakes. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. each cake. Yeast Cakes (William Cobbett's recipe). To make yeast cakes Provide seven pounds of Indian com meal, thi-ee and a haK pounds of rye flour, thi-ee ounces of hops, and one gallon of boiling water. Separate the hops by the hand, strew and boil them in the water for half an hour, then strain the Liquor into an earthen vessel, put in the rye flour while hot, stirring quickly as the fermentation commences. Next daj', when it is working, put in the Indian meal, stirring it well. Before all the meal is added, it will become a stiff dough. Knead it well, and roll it out as j'ou would a pie-crust, to the thickness of half an inch. Cut it into cakes with a tumbler-glass, or anything else that will serve the purpose ; place these cakes on a board, and set them in the svm to dry. Turn them every day, sheltering from wet, until they become quite hard. Keep them in a bag or box perfectly free from damp. When you bake, take a couple of these yeast cakes, break them, and put them in hot water over night. Let the vessel containing them stand near the fire ; they will dissolve ; use the liquid for setting yom- sponge (as it is called), just as you would the yeast of beer. White pea meal, or barley flour, will do as well as Indian meal. Mr. Cobbett adds, that the very best bread he ever ate was lightened with these cakes. Yeast, Camp {sec Camp Yeast). Yeast, Connecticut (an American recipe). Put a handful of hops in a bag, boil in two quarts of water with five pared potatoes; when done, sift the potatoes, put -mih. them in a pan one table-spoonful of flour, half a cup79 ful of sugar, half a cupful of salt, and pour on this the boiling hop-water. When sufficiently cool, add yeast enough to ferment it well, then put it in a jug, cork tight, and keep in a cool place. Yeast Dumpling (a German recipe). Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to cream, add foul' or five eggs to it ; when well-mixed, pour in a cupful of milk and the same quantity of yeast, sugar, grated lemon-peel, and pounded cinnamon, with as much floui- as will make it of a proper consistency. Make the dough into dumplings, and let them remain an hour in a warm place to rise, then boil them in boiling water. Serve with melted butter and sugar or a wine sauce. Yeast, Economical Preparation of. Thicken two quarts of water Avith four ounces of fine flour, boil it for half an hour, then sweeten it with three ounces of brown sugar; when almost cold, pour it, with four spoonfuls of baker's yeast, into an earthen jug deep enough for the fermentation to go on without running over. Place it for a day near the fire, then pom- off the thin liquor from the top, shake the remainder, and close it up for use, first straining it through a sieve to preserve it sweet. Set it in a cool cellar, or hangit some depth in a well. Keep always some of this to make the next quantity of yeast that is wanted. Yeast, German. This yeast in many distilleries forms an important by-product of the maniifactory, and is collected and sold imder the name of dry yeast for the use of the private brewer and baker. AVhen this is done, the process adopted is nearly as follows : Crushed rye is mashed with the proper quantity of barley malt, and the wort, when made, cooled to the proper temperature. For every hundred pounds of the crushed grain there are now added half a pound of carbonate of soda and six ounces of oil of vitriol (sulphiiric acid) diluted with much water, and the wort is then brought into fermentation by the addition of yeast. From the strongly fei-menting liquid the yeast is skimmed off and strained through a hair sieve into cold water, through which it is allowed to settle. It is afterwards washed with one or two waters, and finally pressed in cloth bags till it has the consistency of dough. It has a pleasant fruity smell, and in a cool place may be kept for two or three weeks. It then passes into a putrefying decomposition, acquires the odour of decaying cheese, and has now the property of changing sugar into lactic acid instead of into alcohol, as before. A hundred pounds of crushed grain will yield six to eight pounds of the pressed yeast. It is made largely at Rotterdam, and is imported thenee to this country through HuU. German yeast is excellent when it can be procured fresh, but this is rather a difliculty. After being purchased it shoidd be taken out of the paper as soon as possible, and laid in a cool place till wanted. An ounce of German yeast will raise a quartern or half a gallon, or three pounds and a half of flour. Yeast, German (see also German Yeast). YEA ( 1154 ) YEA Yeast, Home-made. No. i. Boil two ounces of best hops in two quarts of water for hiili an hour. Strain the liquor, and lot it cool down to the heat of new milk. Put into it a small handful of salt and half a pound of moist sugar. Beat up a pound of fine Hour with some of the liquor, and mix all well together. Two days afterwards, add three pounds of potatoes which have been boiled and mashed. Let the jjreparation stand for twenty-four hours, then strain it, and bottle for use, but do not coi-k it tin it has ceased working. Wliilst making it, stir frequently and keep it near the fire. Before using shake the bottle well. It wiU keep in a cool place for two months. Yeast made from this recipe is excellent, but it must be prepared with great care. Bread made from it needs to rise longer, both in the sponge and in the dough, than when fresh brewer's yeast is used. No. 2 Put two gallons of cold water into a stewpan, with quarter of d, pound of moist sugar and one ounce of salt. Put it on the fire, and as it heats stir in with it one pound of flour. Let it boil for an hour. Pour it out, and when millv-warm bottle it closely. It will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. Half a pint .of this yeast will make nine pounds of bread. No. 3. Put a handful of hops into a quart of water, either hot or cold ; let them boil for twenty minutes. Mix in a bowl two table-spoonfuls of flour with one table-spoonful ?of salt and one of moist sugar. Pour the boiling liquor through a sieve upon the mixture, and stir briskly. When it is almost cold, stir into it a tea-cupful of good brewer's yeast. Let it stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours or more, and bottle for use. In wintertime this yeast should be kej)t in a warm place. It should be- stii'red before being used. It should stand to sponge all night, and will then requu-e to rise about two hours after beingkneaded. When fresh yeast is to be made, a pint of this preparation may be used instead of a tea-cupful of fresh yeast. A large tea-cupful of this yeast will raise fourteen pounds of flour. Yeast, Kirkleatliam. BoU an ounce of hops in two quarts of water for twenty minutes. Strain the liquor, and mix with it quarter of a pound of flour and a little less than quarter of a pint o-f fresh yeast. Bottle the prel aration, and tie the cork down. When the bread is to be made, add mashed potatoes, according to the quantity of yeast required. For a peck of flour, boil and mash thi-ee pounds of potatoes, and mix with them half a pound of flour and half a pint of the yeast. Let the mixture stand all day. 'Mix it with the flour, and let it stand to sponge all night ; knead and bake next day. Time, twenty minutes to boil the hops in the water. Suflicient, half a pint for about a peck of flour. Yeast, Oatcakes made with {see Oatcakes made with Yea&-t) . Yeast, Patent. " To make a yeast gallon of this composition such yeast gallon containing eight beer quarts boil in common water eight pounds of potatoes as for eating. Bruise them perfectly smooth, and mix with them, while warm, two ounces of fine honey and one beer 'luart of common yeast. For making bread, mix three beer pints of the above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm water in making the bread. The water should be warmer in winter than in summer, and the composition should be used a few houi's after it is made. As soon as the sponge, or the mixture of the composition with the flour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should be made and put into the oven." This recipe is copied from the original specification in the patent oflice. Yeast, Potato. Boil any quantity of good potatoes in their jackets. When done enough, peel, weigh, and mash them quickly, and with each pound mix a quart of boiling water. Rub the mixture thi-ough a hair sieve, and add an ounce of honey or bro mi sugar to each pound of potatoes. Boil the mixture tiU it is as thick as batter; pour it out, and when lukewarm, stir into it a large table-spoonful of soKd yeast to each quart of water. Cover the mixture with a cloth ; it will be ready for use in twentyfour hours. Double the quantity of this yeast as of beer yeast will be needed. The next time yeast has to be made, use a bottle of this preparation (first poiu'ing off the thin liquid from the top) instead of fresh yeast. Fresh yeast will, however, be required every two months. Yeast, Potato (another way). Boil potatoes of the mealy sort tUl thej' are thoroughly soft. Skin and mash them very smooth, and put as much hot water on them as will make a mash of the consistency of common beer yeast, but not thicker. Add to every pound of potatoes two oimces of treacle, and when just warm, stir in for every pound of potatoes two large spoonfuls of yeast. Keep it wann tiU it has done fermenting, and in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use. A pound of potatoes will make nearly a quart of yeast, which has been found to answer the purpose so well, as not to distinguish the bread made with it from bread made with brewer's yeast. Yeast, Potato (another way). Sec also Potato Yeast. Yeast, Preserved. Wlien yeast is plentiful, take a quantity and work it well with a whisk until it becomes thin ; then procure a large wooden dish or platter, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer of yeast on the dish, and turn the top downwards to keep out the dust, but not the air, which is to dry it. When the first coat is dry, lay on another, and let that di-j-, and so continue till the quantity is suflicient ; by this means it may soon be made two or three inches thick, when it may be preserved in dry tin canisters or stopped bottles for a long time good. When used for baking, cut a piece off, and dissolve it in warm water, when it will be fit for use. Yeast, Preserved (another way). To preserve yeast, take a close canvas bag, fiU it with yeast, then press out the water and make it into cakes. " I have tasted bread," says one writer, "made with yeast preserved in this manner, and it has been excellent. The mode of using it is to dilute it with warm water, to which a little sugar and flour are added." Yeast, Preserved (another way) . Whisk the yeast to a froth, and then with a paint-brush lay it on -ni'iting paper ; continue coating the YEA ( 1155 ) YOR paper every time it dries, until a cake is formed, then divide it into squares with a knife. Yeast Wreaths. Set a pound and a half of fine floui- to warm in a pan. Mix an ounce and a half of fresh dried yeast, or two large tahle-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast, with a cupful of lukewarm milk ; stir this in the centre of the dough to a hatter ; cover, and leave it to rise. When it is light, add haK a pound of butter beaten to a cream, three eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, and a little salt. Work all to a smooth light dough. Di\'ide it into six parts. EoU them on the paste-board into long bars ; plait two twists of these, lay them in rings on a buttered tin, making the ends of each ring join. Set them in a wai-m place to rise, and, when light, brush -them over with egg. Sprinkle chopped almonds and coarsely-powdered sugar over, and bake them to a nice yellow colour in a moderate oven. German National Cookery. Yellow Colour. -Yellow colour for the ornamentation of pastry may be prepared by placing an ounce of hay-saifron in a sugar-pan with a gill and a half of water, a small quantity of alum, and half an ounce of sugar. Set the pan on the fire, let the liquid boil for ten minutes, then pass it thi-ough a napkin. Yellow Pickle. Take quarter of a pound of brown mustard seed, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of black pepper, two ounces of garlic, one ounce of turmeric, quarter of an ounce of mace, three roots of horseradish, and half a poxmd of salt. Dry these ingredients thoroughly, and pour over them a gallon of cold vinegar. Procure a large head of cauliflower, two cabbages, six large carrots, and a quart of French beans. Cut the vegetables into small pieces, strew salt over them, and let them stand for twenty-four hours. Drain them on cloths, and dry them on hair sieves in the sun, or near the fire, for twelve days. Put with them a quart of small onions, and let them dry two days longer. Put them into a large jar, with the %inogar, and let the pickle stand near the fire or in a warm place. It must not, however, be made hotter than new milk. At the end of ten days it will be ready for use. If it is too thick, a httle boiling vinegar may be added. Time, three to four weeks. York Hams. Of English hams, York hams and Westmoreland hams are perhaps the best. If they are only three or four months old, they do not need to soak veiy long, but if a year old or more, they should be soaked for twenty-four hours before being dressed. A ham is excellent when nicely boiled, but better when baked. Yorkshire Backstone Cake {see Oatcake). Yorkshire Black Puddings. Crumble a quarter of a pound of stale bread, pour boiling milk over it to cover it, and let it remain until it has absorbed the milk. Soak a pint of half grits, and boil them for half an hour in as much milk as will entirelj' cover them. Drain the milk, mix it with the boiled g-rits, and add a pint of blood and half a pint of good cream, together with half a pound of finely-shred suet, two table- spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a dessert-spoonful of chopped thyme, and the same quantity of marjoram, sage, and penny-royal, a leek, a small onion, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, six powdered cloves, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, ground ginger, and powdered allspice. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and add four well-beaten eggs. Have ready one pound of the inner fat of the pig cut into dice. Cleanse the skins thoroughly. Half fill them, and put in the fat amongst the naince. Tie the skins in links, prick them with a fork, and boil till done enough. Let them cool, and hang them in a cool situation till wanted. Broil them lightly over a clear fire, and serve on a napkin. Time to boil the puddings, about an hour. Yorkshire Brown Bread. Mix three pounds of best flour with one pound of coarse broad bran. A pound of rye flour m'ay also be added, if approved. Make a hollow in the centre of the flour, but do not quite touch the bottom of the bowl, and sprinkle a little salt round the edge of the flour. Mix an ounce of fresh German yeast smoothly with a little more than half a pint of tepid water. Pour a cupful of tepid water into the hole in the flour, Tim'-ir with it as much flour from the sides as will make a thin batter, and add the yeast. Sprinkle flour over the top, throw a cloth over the bowl, and let it stand near the fire till the yeast rises in bubbles through the flour on the surface. Knead the bread thoroughly, adding lukewarm water as required, and continue to knead without ceasmg till it does not stick to the fingers and the sides of the bowl. Cut it across with a knife, throw a cloth over it, and let it stand near the fire or in a warm place until it is well risen and the surface is slightly cracked. Grease some tins, three-parts fill them with the dough, let the loaves rise in the tins for a few minutes, prick them with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven. If they are put into a brisk oven, the bread wiU not be baked through. Brown loaves require more water and longer baking than white bread. If liked, a smaller proportion of bran may be used with the flour ; or rye flour only may be used. Yorkshire Flat Cake (sometimes called Oven Cake). When bread is made at home, and the dough is being formed into loaves, take a piece the size of half a loaf. Foi-m it into a ball, and with the rolHng-pin roll it into a large round cake, from eight to twelve inches in diameter and three-quarters of an inch thick. Put it on a buttered baking-tin, prick it with a fork, lot it rise before the flre for about ten minutes, and bake in a brisk oven. "When firm, it is done enough. Split it in halves the broad way, butter it well, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake the cake, about threequarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. Sufiicicnt for three or four persons. Yorkshire Fritters. Mix two ounces of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated, with half a pound of flour. Add a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, or half an ounce of German j-cast, and half a pint of fresh milk, and beat the whole to a thick batter. YOR ( 1156 ) YOR Stir into it two ounces of currants picked and dried, throw a cloth over the bowl, and put it before the fire or in a warm place to rise. At the end of half an hour, or when well risen, stir in three well-beaten eggs. Make a little butter or dripping hot in a frying-pan, drop the batter into it a spoonful at a time, and keep the fritters apart. When they are brown upon one side, turn them upon the other; drain them, serve on a napkin, and sift powdered white sugar thickly over them. Time to fry the fritters, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufiicient for three or four persons. Yorkshire Frumenty (a Chiistmas Supper Dish). Put a pint of good wheat into a bowl, poiu- cold water over it, and let it soak for twelve hours or more. Cover with a plate, put it in the oven, and let it simmer gently till tender. Stir occasionally to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the dish. Take it out and let it get cold : it ought to be quite stiff. When wanted, stir about a pint of the boiled wheat into a quart of boiling milk, sweeten the mixture, and flavour with grated nutmeg or powdered cinnamon. Let it boil, serve in a soup tureen, and hand it round in soup plates. Time to simmer the wheat, about three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufiicient for four or five persons. Yorkshire Hare Cake. Procure a hare, three-quarters of a pound of lean ham, four hard-boiled eggs, and a little gravy jeUy. Pick the flesh from the bones in pieces as large as possible, di dde it into neat coUops, about a quarter of an inch thick, and put these aside in a covered dish till wanted. Put the bones and trimmings of the hare into a saucepan, with a calf's foot, a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few sticks of celery, a bmich of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and half a dozen peppercorns. Pour upon the ingredients as much stock or water as ?will cover them, and let them simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. If the liquor is not so strong that it will jelly when cold, two ounces or more of gelatine may be dissolved in it. Free the jelly entu-ely from fat ; spread a thin layer of it at the bottom of an earthen potting-pan, and fill the pan with alternate layers of the collops of hare, thin slices of ham, the hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, and the gravy jelly. Season each layer with a slight sprinkhng of herbs and spices {see Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices). When the?whole of the ingredients are used, cover the pan ?with a coarse paste of flour and water, put it in the oven in a diipping-tin, three-parts filled with boiling water, and keep the water boiling round it till it is done enough. Take the pan out of the oven and leave it in a cold place till the next day. Turn it out upon a dish, garnish - vith parsley, and serve as a luncheon, breakfast, or supper dish. Time to bake the cake, one hour and a quarter to one hour and three-quarters, according to the size of the hare. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. each. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Yorkshire Pie. A true Yorkshire pie, such as constitutes a standing dish during the Christmas festivities at the hospitable board of a Yorkshire squire, is simply a raised pie filled with poultry and game of different kinds, put one inside the other and side by side. These pies are sometimes made of a large size ; and it is recorded that one of them, which was sent from Shefiield in 1832 as a present to the then Lord Chancellor Brougham, broke down on account of its weight. Yorkshire pies require both skill and patience for their manufacture. They are not common, and are becoming less and less so ; nevertheless, when successfully made they form a most excellent dish, and one sure to be highly appreciated. Turkey, pheasants, ducks, fowls, grouse, snipes, and tongue; any or all of these may enter into their coml osition. Whatever birds are used should be boned and partially stewed before being put into the pie : the smallest of them should be filled with good, highly-seasoned veal forcemeat ; a layer of forcemeat should be placed at the bottom of the pie, and all the vacant places filled with the same. A recipe is here given for making a moderate-sized pie. Bone a fowl and a goose ; fill the fowl with good veal forcemeat, truss it, and sew it up. Truss the goose, and put the two side by side in a stewpan which will just hold them. Pour over them as much stock as will cover them, and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, put the fowl inside the goose, truss the latter, and sew it up. Line a pie-mould with some pastry, such as is used for making raised jaies, rolled out to a good thickness. Cover the bottom with a layer of forcemeat, lay the goose upon it, pour a little of the liquor in which it was stewed over it, and place round it slices of pigeons, boned hare, tongue, &c. Fill the vacant jDlaces with forcemeat, and when the meat is closely packed in the crust put over it a layer of clarified butter. Place the pastry-cover on the top, brush over with Q g, ornament it, bind several folds of buttered paper round it, and bake in a well-heated oven. Make a little strong jelly by boiling the bones and trimmings ?with seasoning and spices, and pour this into the pie after it is baked. When the pie is to be served, place it on a dish covered with a napkin, remove the cover whole, and cut the meat in thin slices. The pastry of a pie like this is not made to be eaten but is simply intended as a case in which to preserve and serve the meat. When a skewer will pierce easily to the bottom of the pie in the centre it is done enough. Time to bake the pie, four hours or more. Yorkshire Ploughman's Salad. Wash some lettuces, and dry them perfectly. Shi-ed them finely, and toss "them lightly in a sauce made as follows : Mix thoroughly a saltspoonful of salt with an equal quantity of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and one of treacle. Add the sauce to the salad at the moment of serving. A bunch of chives or a handful of young onions may be introduced or not. Yorkshire Pudding. Allow one egg, and milk to make a tolerably stiff batter, to two table-spoonfuls of flour. This will make a very good pudding, though a better and lighter one may be made by using two eggs to three tablespoonfuls of flour, or even one egg to each table- spoonful of flour. Put as much flour as YOR ( ll' T ) YOR will be required into a bowl, and add a pinch of salt. Stir in gradually as much milk as will make a stiff batter, and beat the mixture vii -orously till it is pei'fectly smooth and light. Whisk the eggs separately, and add them to the batter. Place the pudding-tin under the roasting joint, and leave it till it is thoroughly hot and well gTeased with the drippings from the joint. Pour the batter into it to the thickness of the third of an inch, and bake the pudding before the fire under the joint. Turn the pan round and round, that the pudding may be equally and lightly browned on every side. Cut it in three-inch squares ; take these up carefully with a slice, place them on a separate dish which has been made very hot, and send them immediately to table, to be eaten with the meat and the gravy. If the joint is to be baked under the roast, the latter being placed on a stand in the driping-tin, the pudding, however, will not be so light as if baked before the fire. Out of Yorkshire, what is called Yorkshire pudding is made an inch thick or more, and after it is bro%vTied upon one side, it is cut into squares and turned over, that it may be browned upon the other. This is quite a different thing from the true Yorkshire pudding, which is made very thin, and browned on the uppermost side only. The batter for this pudding will be much better if made two, three, or even four hours before it is wanted. Cold Yorkshii-e pudding may be heated in a Dutch oven before the fire. Time to bake the pudding, varjang with the kind of range used : with an old-fashioned range, which throws out a good deal of heat in front, the pudding will be baked in from threequarters to one hour ; when a kitchener is used, the pudding will need to be finished ofE in the oven. It must not, however, be allowed to get drj'. If made thick, and browned on both sides, the pudding will need at least an hour and a half. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient, a pudding made with four table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a pinch of salt, and a pint of milk, for five or sLk persons. Yorkshire Pudding, Beef with, {see Beef with Yorkshire Pudding). Yorkshire Punch. Hub some large lumps of sugar upon four lemons and one Seville orange until all the yellow part is taken off. Weigh the sugar, and add as much more as will make up its weight to a pound and a quarter. Put the sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of six lemons and three Seville oranges. Add a pint of liquid calf's-foot jelly, and stir in gradually two quarts of boiling water. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and put the bowl containing them by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Strain the mixture, put with it a bottle of orange or lemon shrub, and add half a pint of rum, and half a pint of brandy. If the trouble of rubbing the sugar upon the lemons and orange is objected to, the sugar may be rubbed upon a portion of the lemon, and the thin rind of the rest soaked in the jelly and the strained juice until the flavour is extracted. The flavour of the punch thus made will not quite equal that made by rubbing the sugar with lemon. Yorkshire Spice Cake (sometimes called Yule Cake). These cakes are made in large quantities in Yorkshire families at Christmas time. They are freely offered to strangers and presented to friends, and are frequently eaten with cheese instead of bread. Eecipes for them will be found imder the headings : Yeast Cake, Excellent ; Annie's Pdch Cake; Aunt Edward's Chi-istmas Cake. Another is given below. Put eight pounds of flour into a bowl, and mix a table-spoonful of salt with it ; then rub into it a pound and a half of butter, and two pounds of lard. Scoop a hole in the centre of the bread without touching the bottom, and pour in half a pint of fresh sweet brewer's yeast mixed with water. Stir flour into the yeast till it is like batter, spi-inkle flour over the top, and set the bowl in a warm place. When the yeast rises in bubbles through the flour, knead the dough thoroughly as for common bread, and let it rise till it is light. Yhen risen, work in -with it six pounds of currants, picked and dried thoroughly, three pounds of raw sugar, some grated nutmeg, and eight wellbeaten eggs. Divide it into loaves of various sizes, put these into tins which they will half fill, lined with buttered paper, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. The yeast must on no account be bitter. Time to bake the cakes, according to size. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Yorkshire Tea-cakes. A hospitable Yorkshire housewife would consider her teatable was barely spread if it were not hberally supplied with these delicious cakes, constant relays of which should be served steaming hot. Put two pounds of good floiir into a bowl ; scoop a hole ia the centre, but do not touch the bottom of the bowl, and pour into the hollow thus made a little less than an ounce of German yeast which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of lukewarm milk. Add to this yeast two wellbeaten eggs and six ounces of butter which has been dissolved in half a tea-cupful of hot water. The water, when added to the batter, ought to be a little more than ncw-milk-warm. Draw a little of the flour from the side of the bowl into the liquor till it is of the consistency of very thick cream, sprinkle a little flour upon it to cover the surface, and leave it in a warm place to rise. In about an hour, when the bubbles of yeast show themselves through the flour, knead the dough thoroughlj', adding as much more lukewarm milk as is necessary for the purpose. The tea-cakes wiU require about a joint of milk altogether. Gash the surface of the dough two or three times across with a knife, throw a warm towel over it, and leave it to rise. When it is very light (that is when the surface cracks, which it will do in an hour or more), divide it into ten portions of equal size. Roll these lightly into cakes fourinches in diameter, and put them on a bakingtin. Prick them with a fork and let them rise before the fire for ten minutes. Put them into a mcderatelj'-heated oven ; they must not be baked hard. When they are to be served, either cut them into halves, toast them, and butter liberally, or make them hot in the oven, divide them, and butter them. Serve very hot. These tea-cakes will be very good YOR ( 1158 ) ZAN if made with fom- ounces of butter instead of SLs, and if one egg only is used. They may he. buttered and served cold, but are best hot. Time to bake the tea-cakes, a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, Id. each. Sufficient for ten cakes. Yorkshire Veal Cake. Take one pound and a half of lean veal from the fiUet, threequarters of a pound of thinly-cut ham, and four cg-gs. Boil the eggs tiU they are hard and let them get cold, then cut the veal into neat pieces. Take about half a pint of clear highly-seasoned veal gravy, made so strong that it will jelly firmly when cold. Put a layer of this at the bottom of an earthen potting-pan, and fiU the dish with successive layers of the veal, the ham, the hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, and the jelhed gravy. Season each layer lightly with a little pepper, minced parsley, and shallot, and salt, if requii-ed; this wiU depend upon the saltness of the bacon. Cover the pottingpan with a coarse stiff paste of flour and water, put it in the oven in a dripping-tin, three-parts filled with boihng water, and add more water in place of that which boils away tiU the veal cake is done enough. Let the cake get cold, turn it whole upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. The jellied gravy may be made by boiling the bones and trimmings of the veal in water, with a cow-heel and suitable seasonings, and clarifying the liquor with white of egg. It should form a stiff jeUy when cold. Time to bake the cake, one horn- and a quarter. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Yorkshire Veal Cake (another way). &ee Veal Cake, Yorkshire. Young Oxford Sausages. Take one pound of young pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle ; one pound of beef suet, chopped fine together; put in half a pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred, a nutmeg grated, sLx sage-leaves chojiped fine, a teaspoonful of pepper, and two of salt, some thjTne, savoury, and marjoram, shred fine! Mix weU together, and put the preparation close down in a pan till used. EoU the sausages out the size of common sausages, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table hot. Yule Cake {sec Yorkshire Spice Cake). Yule Dumplings. Cut two small loaves of bread made of milk into slices, and pour over them a sufficient quantity of cold milk to render them soft; having gently pressed the bread, then add to it the following : Two ounces of the small and one ounce of the large raisins, picked and washed, some blanched and finelybruised or grated bitter almonds, grated lemonpeel, mace, and sugar, a piece of rubbed butter, and two or three eggs. All these ingredients to be well mixed together with two or three spoonfuls of flour, and formed into a consistent mass of dough, which is to be divided by a spoon into dumplings of the proper size ; these are to be put overhead into boiling water, and when thoroughly done taken out with a skimming-spoon, and served up with cream sauce poured over them. These dumplings furnish a beautiful supper-dish. Yule Pudding. A quarter of a pound of butter; ten ounces of loaf sugar; the juice of two large lemons, with the rinds grated ; one ounce of isinglass the quantity after dissolved should be a large tea-cupful ; and two spoonfuls of fine flour. Put these ingredients into a stewpan, stir over a slow fire, till the preparation nearly boils, then throw it into a basin and stir till almost cold ; then add eight eggs, four whites, and half a wine-glass of brandy. A puff' paste is to be i3ut entirely over a dish, and the pudding is to be baked half an houi\ Zampino, with French Beans. " In Italy and Vienna," says M. Dubois, "they think a great deal of 'zampino' ('hand,' i.e.,. foot and leg, of young pork) from Modcna, and they are quite right. For my own part, I do not know any product of this nature more cleverly contrived or more successfully achieved than this ' zampino.' The only thing to regret is that the ' zampino ' is not sufficiently and better known to epiciires. Choose a ' zampino ' freshly salted, having soaked it for two hours, di-ain, and wrap it up in a fine cloth ; tie, and place it in an oval stewpan, moistening plentifully with cold water ; make the liquid boil, draw the pan on the side of the fire, keeping the stock simmering for two hoi.irs, after which take the pan quite off the fire, leading the 'zampino' in, and twenty minutes after unpack, and dish it on a garnish of French beans or sour-crout." Zandrina Pudding. Pick some fresh ripe raspberries. Put them into a jar and cover closely; set the fruit in the oven in a tin of boiling water, and keep the water boiling round it till the juice flows freely. Boil it with half its weight of sugar to a syrup, and let it get cold. If fresh fruit cannot be proc.-ured, a jar of raspberry jam may be dissolved, mixed with a httle thin syrup, and rubbed through a sieve. Beat six ounces of fresh butter to cream; work in six ounces of powdered white sugar, six ounces of di-ied flour, and the Avell-beaten yolks of six eggs. AVhisk the whites of the eggs to snow, and add them to the mixtui-e, together with a wineglassful of the raspberry syrup. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould which it will quite fill, put the cover on it, and put it in a saucepan, containing boiling water to the depth of three inches or thereabouts, according to the depth of the mould. Keep the water boiling round the pudding until it is done enough. Take it up, let it stand a minute or two, and turn it out carefully upon a hot dish. Serve, with a little of the syrup whisked with an equal quantity of thick cream, poured round it. If liked, the pudding may be baked instead of being steamed. Time to steam the pudding, an hour and a half, Probable cost, exclusive of the sauce, two shillings. Sufficient for six or seven persons. APPENDIX. A. KITCHEN UTENSILS. On tlie subject of culinary utensils we may repi'oduce the following remarks of Mrs. Ellet : " The various utensils used for the preparation and keeping of food are made either of metal, glass, pottery- ware, or wood, each of which is better suited for some particular purpose than the others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the knoAvledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous consequences. *' The metals commonly tised m the construction of these vessels are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is preferable to all others because it cannot be dissolved by any of the substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and foitns a brittle crust over it, that gives it the appeai'ance of being tarnished. The discolouring of silver spoons used with eggs arises from the brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or saltpetre has also a slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver seldom remain long enough together in domestic xises to require any particular caution. " Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar, acid fruits, and pearlash. Sxicli solutions are highly poisonoiis, and great precautions should be used to prevent accidents. Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined with a thin coating of a mixed metal containing both tin and lead. Neither acids nor anything containing pearlash shoxild ever remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the tin is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect over the surface of copper or brass. " The utensOs made of what is called block-tin are constructed of iron plates coated with tin. This is as liable to be dissolved as the tinning of copj er or brass vessels, but iron is not an imwholesome substance if even a portion of it should be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for the construction of culinary utensils, and the objection to its more extensive use only rests upon its Kability to rust, so that it requires more cleaning, and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as quinces, orange-peel, artichokes, &c., are blackened by remaining in ii'on vessels, which must not therefore be used for them. " Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be used for milk and cream if it be ever likely to stand till it becomes som\ They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted meats. " The best kind of pottery- ware is oriental china, because the glazing is a perfect glass which cannot be dissolved, and the whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it. Many of our own pottery-wares are badly glazed, and as the glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting vinegar and other acids into them. Acids and gi'easy substances penetrate into unglazed wares excepting the strong stoneware or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence give a bad flavoiu' to anything they are used for afterwards. They are quite unfit, therefore, for keepmg pickles or salted meats. Glass A'essels are infinitely preferable to any pottery-ware but oriental china, and should be used whenever the occasion admits of it. " Wooden vessels are very px'oper for keeping many articles of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead. If any substance has fermented or become putrid in a wooden cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to produce a similar efiect upon anytliing that may be put into it in future. It is useful to CASSELLS DICTIOXARY OF COOKERY. char tlie iiisides of these wooden vessels before they are used by burning wooden shavings, so as to coat the insides with a crust of charcoal. "As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure from the repetition of its baneful eifects to injure the health, a due precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its more certain preservation. There is a kind of hollow ii-onware lined with enamel, which is superior to every other utensil for sauces or preserves ; indeed it is preferable for every purpose. " A kitchen should always be well furnished ; there is no necessity that it should be profusely so, but there should be a sufficiency of everything which can aid in producing the dishes preparing with the success which is so essential to the gratification of the palate. A good workman camrot work well with bad tools, neither can good cooks do justice to tlieir proficiency if they possess not the necessary utensils suitable to the various modes of cooking. And when this important point has been realised, cleanliness in every article used should be scrupulously observed ; no utensil should be suffered to be put away dirty ; it not only injures the article itself materially, to say nothing of the impropriety of the habit, but prevents its readiness for use on any sudden occasion. No good cook or servant would be guilty of such an act. Cleanliness is a most essential ingredient in the art of cooking, and at any sacrifice should be maintained in the kitchen." The following are the most important kitchen utensils : Baking Dish. Ordinary baking dishes are made of earthenware. Some housekeepers prefer them made of tin or of iron, enamelled on the inside, as being more durable. M. Soyer invented an improved baking dish, to which was attached a movable false grating of wire, and in the centre of this was fixed a trivet three inches in height. He put the pudding at the bottom of the dish ; he then put in the grating, on which he placed the potatoes, and on the trivet he put the meat. By this means the surplus fiit, which would otherwise have fallen on the j)udding and prevented its setting, would descend on the potatoes, making them delicate and crisp. Probable cost of baking dishes, 4d. iipwards, according to size and quality. Beer Taps. Beer taps are made either of l rass or wood. The former are the most durable, the latter the sweetest. Taps should always Ije Ijrushed and laid in cold water for some hours after being taken out of one cask, before they are jiut into another. Several patent taps are sold of various kinds. One of these, the screw taj), is to be recommended to those who find it necessary to tap their own barrels and have a difficulty in doing it. The tap needs only to be pushed into the cork, and screwed round and round till the circular piece of metal presses upon the cork. Probable cost, taps made of brass, from Is. 6d. ; of wood, 4d. ; screw taps, 2s. 6d. Boiler. In large families the boiler is in frequent requisition. It is used for boiling large joints, hams, &c. Boilers are made in various sizes of wrought-iron or cast-iron. The wrought-iron ones cost from 16s. to 22s. 6d. The cast-ii'on ones from 4s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. Boilers should be washed out and dried perfectly as soon as possible after they are done with. The cover should be laid in the cupboard by the side of the pan when they are not in use. Bottle Jack and Wheel. A bottle jack is a useful little machine for roasting joints of meat or poultry before the fire. It is wound up like a watch, and its action keeps the meat turning round and round, thus causing it to be equally cooked. Probable cost, 8s. 6d., I'Os. 6d., and 16s. 6d. Braising Pan or Braisiere. A braisiere is simply an oval stewpan, with a cover so formed that live embers can be held in it, and thus the cooking process can be carried on from above as well as below. These pans are made both of copper and of tinned iron. The latter ai-e miich cheaper than the former, and just as good. As braisieres are not very common in ordinary kitchens, it may be said that a stewpan of modern form which will admit of embers being placed upon the lid will answer the same purpose. Probable cost, copper braising pans, -with fire-pan, cover, and draining plates, from ?3 10s. to ?6 10s., according to size. Bread Grater. A bread erater is made of tin, and is used to crumble bread APPENDIX. IIGI smoothly, evenly, and finely. It may be bought in two or three sizes, and will cost from 9d. to Is. 6d. Canisters. Canisters in which to preserve tea, coffee, and various gi-oceries are made of japanned tin. They should be emptied and washed out occasionally, and should then l)e dried perfectly before being used again. They may be bought of various sizes. Price, fi'om 9d. Cask Stand. Cask stands are made to hold a cask of wine or ale quite steadily. They are so constructed that the cask can be raised when necessary so gently that the contents need not be shaken, and the liquor can be drawn off clear and bright to the last. Price 8s. 6d., 10s. 6d., and lis. 6d. Chopping Board and Knife. When meat is to be minced for croquettes, kromeskies, rissoles, itc, or when suet or other ingredients are to be chopped very small, the task will be most easily accomplished upon a chopping board, with a knife adapted for the purpose. These boards have to a great extent been superseded by the sausage machines, which do their work quickly and thoroughlj'". A choj)i)ing board can be procured from Is. to 2s., and a knife from Is. -Id. A sausage machine costs from 10s. 6d. to 21s. Clocks. A clock is indispensable in a kitchen where regularity and punctuality are to be observed. Clocks may be had at all sorts of prices. Excellent American clocks can be obtained at a very trifling cost. Cook's Knife. It will facilitate the cook's operations if she is provided with two or three sharp-pointed knives of different sizes. This kind of knife is miich to be preferred to the short round-bladed knife. Probable cost, from 2s. Digester. A digester is a most valuable utensil which cannot be too highly recommended to those who wish to presei've all the goodness tliat can be extracted from meat, bones, or vegetables. It is a kind of iron stock-pot, made with a lid which fits so closely into a groove at the top that no steam can escape that way, but only through a valve at the top. Care must be taken, therefoi-e, in filling the digester to allow plenty of room for this escape indeed the pot should never be more than three-pai"ts tilled with water, bruised bones, and meat. The contents of the pan should be kept simmering very gently as long as may be necessary. A fierce heat would injure the quality of the preparation. Digesters are made in all sizes, holding from three quarts to ten gallons. The saucepan and stewj an digesters for making gravies hold from one to eight quarts. Probable cost, digester holding one gallon, 4s. 9d. ; holding four gallons, 9s. 8d. Dredgers. Dredgers for sugar and flour may be bought for about Is, Their use prevents waste, and also makes it easy for the cook to distribute the ingredients lightly and equally over the preparation. Dripping Pan and Basting Ladle. The dripping pan is placed under the joint to catch the fat and gravy which drops from it. This pan is constructed with a well in the centre, which is covered with a lid and siu-rounded with holes, so that the dripping can run into the well free from ashes. This lid can be lifted up when the meat is to be basted. The basting ladle is half covered with a piece of perforated metal, so that if any cinders should get into the dripping, they may be kept from falling upon the meat. Dripping pans may be purchased, made of copper, and standing on legs, and the price of one of these with the well and ladle would be from ?4: 10s. to ?11 10s., according to size. They are usually made of \?rought-u'on or of tin, and stands for them may be bought separately. The price of a good wrought-iron dripping pan on iron legs, Avith a well, would be from ?1 18s. to ?2 6s. The price of a good tin dripping pan would be about 8s. 6d., that of an iron stand about 4s. 6d., and a basting ladle from 2s. to 5s. 6d. Earthen Jars. A most excellent mode of cooking is that which is accomplished by means of an ordinary earthen jar with a closely-fitting lid. Meat, fruit, and various farinaceous articles may be baked most satisfactorily in this way. The process is so gentle and gradual that the ingi-edients can scarcely he spoilt, and besides this, if the jar is closely covered the nourishment contained in the food cannot escape. The meat, fruit, rice, or whatever is to be cooked, should be placed in the jar with 1162 cassell's dictionary of cookery. tlie necessary quantity of liquid. The jar should then be covered closely or pasted down, should be put in a shallow tin tilled with boiling water, and put in the oven. The water should be kept boiling round it. The quantity of water should be kept up (a little being added every now and then) until the preparation is sufficiently baked. Probable cost, earthen jars from 9d., according to size. Filter.- -A filter should be found in every house. No one who has given the least thought to the subject can dovibt that health depends to a great extent upon the purity of the water which is drunk, and the water supplied to houses is often not fit for drinking purposes until it has been filtered. A filter needs only to be tilled regularly and cleaned out every week, and when this is done there is always at hand a supply of that necessary of life pvire drinking water. Filters may be procured from 6s. to 7s. Fish Kettle. A tish kettle is fitted with a drainer, upon which the fish is to be placed, and which is pulled up when the fish is sufficiently boUed. The drainer should be placed across the kettle for a minute, and when the water has drained from it, it should be placed carefully on the dish. There are three or four shapes in fish kettles, constructed to suit the shape of different fish, such as a salmon kettle, a turbot kettle, and a carp kettle. All are fitted with drainers. Price of fish kettle, from 7s. 6d. Fish Slice. A fish slice is made of perforated metal tin or copper and is used to lift the fish from the drainer to the dish upon which it is to be served. A utensil of the same kind is used to lift poached eggs out of the water, and is also useful to preserve unbroken any article which needs to be carefully passed from the pan to the dish. Price, from 6d. Frying Pan, Saute Pan, Omelet Pan, and Fish Fryer. When a frying pan is spoken of it is generally understood to mean a shallow pan, made of iron or copper, in which any preparation that requii'es but little cooking can be tossed quickly over the fire. This is properly speaking a saute pan, and a smaller pan of the same kind, vith sloping sides, and kept exclusively for omelets and different preparations of batter, is called an omelet pan. It has been already explained that to fry anything is to boil it in fat : to saute it is to cook it over the fire, one side at a time, in a very small quantity of fat. Thus a pancake, an omelet, a chop or a steak cannot properly be said to be "fried" they are sauted. The distinction is, however, so little understood in English kitchens, that to adopt the correct terms would in nine cases out of ten be to cause the recipes to be misunderstood, therefore the usual word has been taken. Frying pans, or saute pans, and omelet pans are made both of iron and copper. The former are most generally used. They should be kept scrupulously clean, and should never on .any account be put away dirty. When not in use they should be hung in a dry, airy situation, where tlae dust cannot settle upon them. Before being used a little fat should be heated in the pan, and when this is removed the pan should be wiped with a dry cloth. This \vill ensure its being perfectly free from damp. The same pan that is used for frying tish should not be taken for other things. Deep frying pans are sold on purpose for fish ; they are called fish fryers. They ai-e in shape not unlike a preserving pan, and are fitted with a closely-made wire drawer, with handles at each end. The fish placed in this can be plunged at once into the boiling , fat, and when done enough can be taken out of it and drained without much fear of being broken. The possession of one of these pans makes it a comparatively easy thing to fry fish. When they are not at hand, however, and they are not by any means in general use, the ordinary frying pan must be used instead. The fat used must be as deep as circumstances will permit, and if necessary the fish must be fried first upon one side and then turned over upon the other. Stfeaks and chops, though constantly fried, are nnich better broiled. When a prejudice exists in favour of " sauteing," however, it should be remembered that the fat used should be allowed , to become hot before the meat is placed in it. This will keep it from being greasy. Probable cost, iron frying pans and omelet pans from Is. each; copper opes from 6s. 6d., according to size. Fish fryers from 12s. 6d. APPENDIX. 1163 Funnel, Tin. A tin funnel is used to prevent waste in passing liquid from one vessel to anothei-. Tin funnels should always be scalded and dried perfectly after being used. Price, 4d. or Gd. Gauffre Irons. GaufFre irons are a kind of tongs made for tlie purpose of baking small round cakes over the fire. Price, 7s. 6d. Glaze Pots. A glaze pot and brush for heating and applying glaze somewhat resembles a glue kettle. When the utensil is not at hand, put tlie glaze into a jar, place this in a pan of boiling water, and keep the water boiling round it till the glaze is melted. Gravy Strainers. Gravy strainers are made of tin, and in various shapes and sizes. Perhaps the best and most convenient is one shaped like a jelly-bag, and perforated at the sides. Gra\y sti-ainers should be rinsed in hot water and dried each time they are used. Probable cost, Is., Is. 3d., and Is. 6d. each. Gridirons. The gridiron is an essential article among kitchen utensils, and indeed in all kitchens at least two should be kept one for fish, and one for chops, steaks, &c. Gridirons are of various shapes and sizes, some being square and some round, or " circidar gridu'ons " as they are called. Some, too, consist of rovmd j3arallel bars of iron, and some of fluted bars i.e., gutter gridirons. The circular gutter gridiron is of course adapted to close stoves, and the advantage that gutter gridirons possess over ordinary ones is that much of the fat, &c., that would othermse fall in the fire and flare is by this means saved. In all ordinary gi'idirons, of course, all that falls from the meat goes in the fire. Sometimes this is desirable, as \i\ cooking a chop or steak the object of the cook is as much as possible to obtain a black colour outside and a red colour in. In using a gutter gridii'on over a rather slack fire it will be found advisable to take a spoon and dip it into the reservoir into which the fat has run, and pour occasionally a few drops into the fii-e, thereby causing the flare that will turn the meat the colour desired. Very great pains should always be taken in the cleansing of gridii-ons. Those composed of round bars, after being carefully washed, shoiild be rubbed with scouring paper, by which means only pei'fect cleanliness is attainable; In cleaning gutter gridii-ons each gutter should be scraped separately till no stain is left, and extra precautions as to cleanliness shoidd be observed always after cooking bloaters, haddocks, or indeed fish of any kind. In using a giidiron for grilling, care should always be taken in the early stages of the process to prevent whatever is grilled from sticking, and consequently burning. For instance, wlien fish is gi-illed it \dll be always found advisable to rub the giidii-on with a piece of mutton flit. Hot Closet. A hot closet is a kind of cupboard connected with the range, furnished with shelves, upon which plates and dishes can be warmed, and in which various kinds of confectionery can be dried. They are seldom used, exceptuag in hotels and very large establishments. Price, from 30s. to 60s. Hot Water Dish. Joints which are to be served very hot, and especially those which are liable to chill quickly, should be placed on a hot water dish. This is a dish arranged with a double bottom, which can be filled with hot water, and wliich Avill keep hot both the dish which is over it, and the joint and the gravy which are upon it. The water ought to be boiling hot, and ought not to be poured into the dish until the last moment. Probable cost, for a IG-inch dish of Britannia metal, about 37s. 6d. Hot water plates of Britannia metal will cost about 9s. ; if made of tin they wall cost 3s. Gd. Covers for the same will cost from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Ice MAKiNfc Machines. The following method is the one usually adopted for freezing various preparations : Procure a few pounds of ice, break it into small pieces, mix three or four large handfvils of bay salt with it, and put it into an ice pail. Put the preparation into a freezing-pot, and cover it. Place this in the midst of the broken ice, cover it, and when it is cold twist it round rapidly, then work it well with the spatula until it is smooth. If this is not done the ice will be lumpy. 1164 CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. Put it into a mould, and embed it in ice till it is set. In the piston freezing machine the preparation is placed in cylinders, and outside these are put pounded ice, salt, and a little water. The piston is then worked up and down, and this not only moves the ice and salt round the cylinders, but also moves the " stii-rers " inside the cylinders, which makes the preparation smooth. When it is frozen it is pressed fiiTnly down and moulded, then embedded in ice till it is quite set. Freezing powders for generating ice are much used. Some machuies can be used with these powders only, others require a mixture of ice and salt. A freezing pail may be procured for about 7s. 6d. ; a pewter freezing pot which will hold one quart, for 12s. 6d. ; two qiiarts, IGs. 6d. ; three quarts, 25s. ; a spatula for 5s. ; freezing machines from 35s. Freezing powders are sold in boxes, or by the cwt. Ice Safes or PtEFRiGERATORS. Ice safes are constructed for the purpose of keeping wines, jellies, butter, milk, &c., deliciously cool in summer time. The price varies according to size, which regulates also the quantity of ice required per week. A small safe, 1 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 8 in. will need 40 lbs. of ice per week, and for a large one measuring 4 ft. 2 in. by 2 ft. 3 in., 150 lbs. will be requisite. There is an improved refrigerator which is fitted with a filter, and is so constructed that the water as it melts is drained into the filter, where it is kept ready for drinking, and ice cold. The cost of a refrigerator will be from ?2 10s. to ?8 8s., according to size. If fitted with a filter it wUl be more expensive. Jelly Bags. Jelly bags may be bought ready made, but they are much the best when made at home. Procure a piece of very stout flannel. That used for making ironing blankets is very good. Turn it cornerwise, and make it in the shape of a fool's cap. Be careful to stitch the seams twice witli strong thread, and fasten tapes round the top at equal distances, by means of which it may be suspended from the stand. The easiest way of using it is to fasten the mouth of the bag round a loop, and this will keep it open, so that the jelly may T e conveniently poured into it. Stands are sold on purpose for jelly bags ; when one of these is not at hand, the bag may be hung between two chairs turned back to back. A jelly bag may be made of any .size. It should be dipped into hot water, and wrung quite dry before being used. Jugs, Kitchen. In all households a large number of jugs ai-e required for kitchen purposes. In buying these, for purposes of cleanliness, always choose the shape so that the cook's hand can be easily inserted. Otherwise they are very apt to be put by with a rim in the upper part of the jug of stale milk or stale beer, thereby rendering sour the next liquid poured into them. Knife Baskets. Knife baskets are made of vicker work, with a tin lining. They can be very easily washed out and dried. Probable cost of tinned baskets, 10s, Japanned baskets may be had for about 2s. Larding NEEDLEs. Larding needles are used in larding. They are made with split ends, and are intended to hold the little strips of bacon called lardons, which, by their means, are introduced into the surface of the meat. They are sold in boxes, which contain twelve needles of different sizes, or they may be bought separately. Probable cost, 9d. to Is. each. Lemon Squeezer. By means of this little utensil the juice can be pressed from the lemon so thoroughly that scarcely a drop is left in it. As it is almost impossible to squeeze a lemon quite dry with the hand, the lemon squeezer may certainly be classed amongst the kitchen utensils which prevent waste. Price, Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. Marble Slab for Pastry. Pufi" paste ought properly to be rolled upon a marble slab ; it is then much more likely to be light and puffy than when it is rolled upon wood. Marble slabs are sold for the purpose. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Meat Chopper. A meat chopper is used to chop into small pieces and to disjoint bones, which are to be stewed down for gravy or stock. The price is from Is. 9d. to 3s. A 7neat cleaver to be nsed for the same purpose will cost from 4s. 6d. Meat Safes. Meat safes belong properly to the larder. They are intended to preserve meat, pastry, ifec, from flies and dust. They are almost indispensable in hot weathei'. It should be remembered that meat, &c., should be allowed to become perfectly cold before being put into the safe. Small wire safes may be bought for APPENDIX. 1165 about Is. 6d., and large ones of the same kind for 6s. or 7s. Better and more durable ones made either to hang from the top of the larder or to fit in the window, and of various sizes, will cost from 22s. to 33s. Meat Screens. Some meat screens are made of wood, lined with tin, and fitted with shelves upon which the plates and dishes can be warmed. The modern meat screen is a more compact affair. It is made of tin, and is constructed to condense the heat as much as possible. The joint is hung inside, and there is a place for the jack just above the screen, and comiected with it. The advantage which this screen possesses over the old-fashioned one is that by its means a joint may be cooked at a comparatively small fire, on account of the heat being reflected from the tin upon the meat. Some persons object to it because they consider that the meat being so closely surrounded acquii-es a baked taste. Certainly the close screen slaould not be jjlaced near the grate, or the joint will become hard and dry upon the surface. Probable cost, wood screen, from 30s. ; close screen, 1 6s. 6d. Moulds for Cakes and Puddings. Cakes are generally baked in tin moulds, and a large choice of these is offered to the purchaser. Puddings may either be boiled in moulds or in plain pudding basins with a rim. Many puddings, especially those into the composition of which bread enters, are both lighter and drier when boiled in a stout cloth, rather than in a mould. Probable cost of puddmg and cake moulds, from 4s. 6d. ; pudding basins, from 6d. Moulds for Jelly. Moulds for jelly may be purchased so pretty and so artistic that they need to be seen to be appreciated. There are plain moulds of all shapes and sizes, and if these have a bunch of fruit or any similar design on the top, a pretty effect may be produced by colouring suitably the jelly which will fill that portion of the mould. Particular care must be taken to colour only as much jelly as is required, and the coloured part must be allowed to go quite stiff before the rest of the jelly, which should of course be perfectly cold, is placed upon it. Open moulds, or rather border moulds, are also made, which leave the jelly with an opening in the centre to be tilled with whipped cream. By means of the more elaborate moulds, jellies beautiful in appearance may be turned out. Amongst these may be mentioned the Belgrave mould, the Alexandra mould, and the star mould. These moulds aie provided with movable interiors so constructed that a transparent jelly can be poured into the outer portion of the mould, and when this is quite stiff the lining can be removed, and the cavity filled with an opaque jelly, which, being discernible through the transparent exterior, has a very good appearance. Simple earthenware moulds can be purchased from 2s. 6d. ; copper moulds cost from 9s. 6d. ; border moulds, 12s. 6d. ; and moulds with movable linings, about 22s. 6d. To use the Belgrave Mould. Pour some clear bright jelly round but not into the cylinders. When this is quite set, pour a little warm water into the cylinders for a moment, then withdraw the luiing, and fill the cavities with bright-coloured jellies or cream of different colours, or with fruit, wliich can be kept in its place by pouring a small portion of liquid jelly upon it after it is arranged. The space which was occupied by the central cylinder may be left empty, and filled just before the jelly is served with white or coloured whipped cream. To use the Alexandra Moidd. Put the mould in ice. Fill the first cross with white jelly, and when this is stiff fill the second cross with pink jelly, and let this also stiffen. Put the lining in the mould, and fill the space outside it as far as the plain band of the mould with pink jelly. When this is stiff, pour a little warm water into the lining to loosen it. Withdraw it instantly, and fill the cavity with white jelly or blancmange. When this is set, fill the plain band of the mould with bright yellow jelly. When this jelly is turned out it will represent the Danish cross upon a golden ground. To use the Star Moidd. Put the mould in ice, then fill the circle at the top with bright red jelly. When this is set, fill the smaller star with silver jelly. Let this set, and fill the large star with red again. Put the lining into the mould, and fill the space outside it, as far as the plain band of the mould, with clear jelly. Withdraw the lining, and fill the empty space with blancmange. When this is perfectly CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. stiff pour as much reel jelly into the band part of the mould as will fill it. When this is quite stiff the jelly is ready to be turned out. To turn jelly out of the mould dip the mould quickly in and out of boiling water. Shake it gently, place a glass dish upon it, and turn it carefully upside down. If necessary give it a sharp tap with a knife or spoon. Moulds for Raised Pies. Moulds for raised pies are made to open, which renders it a comjoaratively easy task both to form the pie and to turn it out when baked. The cost is about 6s. 6d. Nutmeg Grater. A nutmeg grater is made of tin, perforated vnth. holes, and presenting a rough surface upon wliich nutmegs or whole ginger can be rubbed to powder. It generally constitutes a portion of the spice-box. When bought separately it can be procured for Id. or 2d. Paste Board and Polling Pin. Pastry-boards are plain smooth boards, upon which pastry can be rolled. They are generally made of common wood, but the best kinds are made of box- wood. Even these, however, are not to be compared with marble slabs. Pastry-boards should be kept scrupuloitsly clean, should be scrubbed well every time they are used, and should be hung in a dry situation where they will be in no danger of mildewing. Probable cost of pastry-board and roller, from 2s. 6d. Paste Jagger and Corner Cutter. These utensils are used for trimming and cutting pastry. The wheel which is placed at the end of the pastry jagger is used to mark pastry which is to be divided after it is baked. Probable cost, Is. Patty Pans. These little pans which are used for baking tarts, cheesecakes, &c., are made of tin. They may be procured of all shapes and sizes. Probable cost, Is. or Is. 6d. per dozen. Pepper Mill. A pepper mill can be so regulated that the pepper shall be either fine or coarse. Probable cost, 4s. 3d. ; if made of steel, ?1 2s. 6d. Pestles and JMortars. These utensils are used to pound various ingredients, and are exceedingly useful in cookery. They are sold made of both brass and iron, bivfc these are neither so sweet, nor are they so easily kept clean, as when made either of marble or wedgewood-ware. They should be washed and dried perfectly each time they are used. Probable cost, 14s. 6d. Plate Pack. A plate rack is a convenient article used in washing plates and dishes. The plates should be first scraped, then washed in hot water with a little soda, and wiped w ith the dish-cloth, rinsed in cold water, and drained on the rack. In a short time they can be taken down and put away, and will present a bright shiny surface, without any of those streaks showing the marks of the dish-cloth, which are enough to take the edge off the keenest appetite. The water in which plates are washed shoxdd be changed frequently. Probable cost of plate rack, 12s. Plate Warmers. Plate warmers are stands constructed for the purpose of heating plates that are to be used at table. They are made in various shapes, and are placed before the fire in such a position that they catch the heat which radiates from it. Many modern ranges are made with a shelf, upon which plates can be put, and this dispenses with the necessity of a separate plate warmer. Probable cost, from 16s. Potato Pastry Pan. This pan is shaped something like a bakitig-dish, and it is made with a perforated plate, with its valve-pipe screwed on. A delicate and savoury preparation may be prepared in it. For instiaictions as to its use, see Potato Pastry, Modem. Probable cost, 4s. or 4s. 6d. Potato Steamers. A potato steamer is a pan with a perforated tin bottom, wliich is made to fit closely into an iron saucepan below it. The potatoes are placed in the upper pan, and are cooked by the steam which rises from the boiling water in the lower one. There is an improved steamer which is made with a handle, which can be drawn out when the potatoes are done enough, thus allowing the steam to escape, so that the heat from below dries the potatoes already cooked. Probable cost of improved steamer, 7s. to 8s. Preserving Pans. Preserving pans are generally made of copper. They are used for making jams, jellies, and marmalade. They should be cleaned with scrupu APPENDIX. 1167 loiis care each time tliey are used, and if two or three lots of fruit are boiled in one day, the pan should be cleaned between the boilings, as otherwise the fruit will be in danger of buniing. Probable cost of preserving-pan, 10 mclies across, 12s. 6d.; the price increasing with the size. Pudding Cloths. Pudding cloths should be kept scrupulously clean, otherwise they may impai-t an unpleasant taste to the pudding. As soon as they are done with they should be thrown into water, and allowed to soak until they are washed. Very hot water, but no soap, should be used in washing them. They should be dried out of doors, and kept in a dry clean place. Pudding cloths are sometimes made of thick soft cord, loosely knitted, and these mark the pudding boiled in them, and give it a pretty appearance. In order to prevent a pudding which is boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, a plate or saucer should be put underneath it. Puree Presser. Tliis utensil is used in making purees. Roots or pulse are boiled in water or stock till they form a pulp ; they are then passed through the puree presser. Those who possess a colander and a wire or hair sieve may dispense with this article. Ranges, Kitchen. Tlie " range " where shall we draw the line between the long rows of hot plates, &c., that are necessary in the grand hotel and the modest little grate in the ai-tisan's cottage, or indeed the fire inclosed between a few open bricks which support the soldier's cooking-pot containing perchance the hastilycut steak from the flank of the warrior's steed? To be practical, however, we need seek neither the camp nor the court, but rather the ordinary dwellings of those whom the large majority of the recipes we have published are chiefly intended to benefit, and the very first point that it is necessary for us to consider is the advantages and disadvantages of open and shut stoves. One of the chief pomts in favoiu- of all close ranges is that there is no fear of any of the dishes cooked being sent to table smoky. Secondly, a far greater number of saucepans can be kept hot on a close range than on an open fire, and it is far more easy to regulate the heat. Too often in open fireplaces when saucepans are left for a short time they will boil over. Thirdly, in using close ranges the outsides of the saucepans do not get covered with soot, as is necessarily the case in. open fireplaces. The best close ranges are also fitted up with a rack over the top for warming plates. In roasting joints care should be taken that a current of air passes through the oven or roaster while the meat is cooking, as by this means that peculiar greasy flavour detected too often in meat that has been baked will be avoided. Another pui-pose to which close stoves can be turned is that of an ironing stove, and undoubtedly close stoves for ironing purposes generally, but especially for heatingirons, possess enormovis advantages over open grates. There is one point in connection with stoves to which I would call particular attention, and that is the boiler. This latter indispensable part of every stove should always be made to fill itself, and also should be made so that it can be easily got at for the purpose of being cleaned. In shut stoves it will generally be found that the boiler is more accessible than in the old-fashioned open grates, and this is another important advantage possessed by the close oven. When boilers do not fill themselves they are very apt to be forgotten by even cai'eful servants, and are almost certain to be neglected by the average iiin of serA ants in the present day. You will therefore run the following risk : The boiler will get empty and then hot. The servant finding it empty \vill take a can of cold water, and withoiit thinking of the risk she is running fill the boiler just as it is, thereby cracking it probably, and doing some pounds' worth of mischief Again, you have a still gi-eater risk to run. Supposing the fire to have been very fierce, and the boiler to have got red-hot, then the water when poured into the boiler by a careless servant gets quickly converted into steam, and an explosion occurs that may be serious. An explosion from this very cause occurred many years back at a house in Gower Street. 1168 CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. We will now name some of the disadvantages of the close stoves. One of the most commonly felt is perhaps the difficulty of airing clothes. The close stoves, unless heated almost to redness, rarely throw out sufficient heat to air linen properly ; and in families where there are many young children the inconvenience is considerable, unless other fires are lit for the purpose. Secondly, close stoves undoubtedly do not cook large joints, such as haunches of mutton, equally well with large open grates, owing to the fact that basting is so much easier a j rocess in the latter than in the former. And basting is an important point in roasting, and one tliat is too often overlooked. Another drawback to shut-up stoves, especially those in which the fire is quite closed from view, is that servants are apt to overlook the fire altogether, and let it go out. In choosing close stoves, it is always as well to guard against those whose chief merit seems to consist in a number of ingenious contrivances, such as regulating the flow of air, adapting the hot plate to diSerent-sized saucepans, &c. Ash trays, iron rings, knobs, &c., are all liable to break, and some of these small stoves, that are not bricked into the fireplace, but stand on four legs like a table, will often be found very brittle, and are sometimes even broken in. being put up. They are also apt to crack if, when hot, a little cold water is spilt on them, and as this is l robable occurrence occasionally in every kitchen, of course these stoves possess but little wear. Salad Basket. This is a wire basket of a peculiar form, iised to shake salad in, so as to dry it perfectly after it has been washed. In France these baskets are in very general use. When they are not at hand, the salad, after being washed, should be put a small quantity at a tiuie into a clean dry cloth. This should be taken up by the four corners and shaken till the salad is dry, when it may be put into the salad bowl. A - ingenious person could twist a little wire to form a basket, which would answer the purpose intended. Probable cost, 3s. or 4s. 6d. Salamander. A salamander is used to impai-t a brown colour to any preparation wanting it. The instr-ument is made red-hot, and is held close to the preparation until it is sufficx ntly browned. When a salamander is not at hand, a fii'e shovel made red-hot will answer the same purpose. Probable cost, from 6s. 9d. Saucepans. Saucepans are of various kinds, and are made in all sizes. In a well -furnished kitchen thei-e is generally a complete set, with the sizes in gradation, and the efficient cook prides herself not only upon their perfect cleanliness inside, but upon their bright and polished exteriors. Saucepans are made of tinned copper, wrought-iron, and also tinned cast-iron and blocked-tin. Copper saucepans are the best, but they are very expensive. Wrought-iron saucepans, tinned inside, though not so durable, are quite as good for all practical purposes. Those most frequently used are made either of cast-iron or of blocked-tin. Cast-iron saucepans are frequently lined with enamel. With care they will last for years. Blocked-tin ones also are very good, and though not quite so durable, can be mended more easily than iron ones. Small saucepans are made of porcelain also. They are excellent for sauces and very delicate preparations, and can be washed like a plate. The objection to them is that they are exceedingly brittle. They crack very quickly. All saucepans of whatever kind should be kept scrupulously clean. They should be washed, scoured with fine sand or ashes, and well rinsed each time they are used. Tinned saucepans should be examined frequently, and as soon as the tin shows any sign of wearing off, they should be re-tinned. This is especially necessary with copper saucepans, which, Avhen red, not only spoil the colour of anything that is boiled in them, but make it poisonous. Probable cost, copper saucepans, from 6s. to ?2, according to size ; wrought-iron tinned saucepans, from 3s. to 18s. 6d., according to size j ii'on and blocked-tin saucepans, from Is., according to size. Saw. A meat saw is used for dividing the bones of a fresh joint. The meat will of course need to be cut close to the bone before the saw can be used. The saw should be carefully wiped when it is done with, and hung in a dry safe place. If any damp gets to it, it will rust, and be quite spoilt. Probable cost, from 3s. 9d. Scales and Weights. Although some cooks are very proud of being able to APPENDIX. 1169 make their clislies " by guess," their method is not one which is to bo imitated, because it is not to be relied upon. Preciseness in apportioning the ingredients to be used is indispensable to the cook who would be always successful, and therefore there is scai'cely a more important kitchen utensil than a set of scales and weights. The weights should range from oz. to 7 lbs. They should be put away as soon as they are used, as the small ones especially are very easily lost, and they should be carefully kept in i-egular order. When anything of a greasy nature has to be weighed, it should be put upon a piece of paper, otherwise it will spoil the scale. Probable cost, ?1. Sieves. -Sieves of different kinds are very essential kitchen utensils. There are hair sieves and wire sieves ; the latter are the stronger, and more di rable, the former the finer of the two. All purees ought to be rubbed patiently through a sieve, and various sauces are much improved after they have undergone the same process. Wire sieves are intended for materials which could not be made to pass through a hail- sieve. Px-obable cost, hair sieve, from Is. ; brass-wire sieves, 4s. Skewers. A set of skewei-s can be procui-ed at a very trifling cost. Those who have experienced the inconvenience of being without these insignificant but useful little ai-ticles, will take care to keep a supply on hand. Spice Boxes. Spice boxes are divided into compartments in which the different kinds of spices can be kept. The nutmegs are generally put in the centre, in a box which forms the grater. The assistance which it is to the cook to have ingredients of this kind together, yet separate, and close at hand when wanted, can only be understood by those who have known the hindrance which is caused by a different arrangement. Probable cost, 3s., 4s., and 4s. 6d. Spit. The spit is simply the bar from which the joint is suspended when roasting. It should be kept bright and clean, and should he i 'f efully wiped before being used. The meat shoidd be well balanced upon it, as otherwise it will not turn steadily. When poultry or boned joints have to be roasted, a cradle spit is to be preferred to the ordinary spit, as the latter is sure to occasion the. escape of some of the juices by the necessary perforation of the joint. In the cradle spit the meat instead of being pierced is held in a sort of cradle. Steak Tongs. Steak tongs are intended to turn steaks or chops when they are being broiled or fried, without piercing the meat in any pai-t, as this causes the escape of the juices. When steak tongs are not at hand, the cook should be particularly careful in turning the steak to injure it as little as possible. She should on n account stick a fork into the lean portion, as this would inevitably make the meat chy and flavourless. Probable cost, 2s. per pair. Stewpans. A stewpan differs from a saucepan in this, that it has a flat lid, with a handle, which fits very closely into the pan, and thus prevents the escape of the steam. Stewpans are made, like saucepans, of different materials, and in various sizes. They vary in price according to their quality. They are generally made with straight sides. (See Saucepans.) Stock Pot. Stock pots are made of tinned copper, tinned iron, cast-iron, and earthenware. The two fu'st are the best, because they are the most easily cleaned. Tinned iron stock pots answer their purpose just as well as copper ones, and are much less expensive. Some stock pots are fitted with a tap, by means of which a little clear liquid can be dra-\vn off without disturbing either the sediment at the bottom or the scum which may be at the top. Stock pots should be washed and scoured with tine sand, and rinsed and dried each time they are used. They should never be put away dirty. The stock should on no account be allowed to remain in them all night. The quality of the stock depends in a gi-eat measure upon the cleanliness of the pot. Probable cost, copper stock pots, from ?1 14s. ; fitted with taps, from ?3 1.5s. : tinned iron stock pots, from 17s. 6d. ; with taps, from 30.s. Tamis. A tamis or tammy cloth is a piece of thin woollen canvas, r.sed in straining soups and sauces. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. each. Tartlet Tins. Tartlet tins are made of tin, and are usfd for baking the trimmings of pastry rolled out smoothly and veiy thin. The iam is Ijettcr to 1)6 80 1170 CASSELLS DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. spread on after tlie tartlet is baked, and small ornaments of pastry which have been stamped out with the cutter, and baked separately, may be laid on the jam. Tartlet tins should be oiled or buttered before the pastry is put on. When they are done with they should be scalded and dried, and kept in a dry place. Tea Kettle. Tea kettles are made of copper, ii-on, and blocked-tin. Iron kettles ai-e very durable, but the water in them is a long time in coming to the boil. Blocked-tin kettles boil quickly, but they have not nearly so much wear in them as an iron kettle. Blocked-tin kettles, with copper bottoms, are perhaps better than any other, as they are durable, and the water in them boils quickly. Copper kettles are generally intended to be brought into the dining-room. They should be cleaned every day either with vitriol or mth oil and emery-powder. A tarnished copj er kettle has a very bad appearance. Probable cost, blocked-tin kettle, 3s. The price increases with the quality and size. XoNGS. One very imj)ortant accompaniment to the gridii-on is a pair of cooking tongs for turning chops and steaks. Cooks should never by any chance stick a fork into a steak or chop, as thereby all the gravy is let out, runs into the fire, and is wasted, and the meat instead of looking red inside will look white. When a chop or steak is cooked again, the cook should never cut it open to see if it is done, but should simply judge from pmching it with the tongs. If it feels what may be described as spongy inside, it is evidently blue in the middle. The meat when pinched should feel soft; but neither hard which means over-cooked, or spongy which means underdone. When there are no tongs for the purpose, the chop or steak is best turned by means of two iron spoons. TuRBOT Kettle. A turbot kettle is a fish kettle made broad and shallow to .suit the shape of the fish for which it is intended. It is fitted with a drainer, like an ordinary fish kettle. Price, from ?1. Vegetable Cutters. Vegetable cutters are sold in boxes, and are used to stamp vegetables into neat shapes for garnishing dishes. The appearance of a dish is very much improved if the turnips and carrots placed round it are shaped, instead of being plainly sliced. Probable cost, vegetable cutters, 3s. a box. Vegetable scoops are sold for the same purpose. They cost Is. 6d. each. Warren's Cooking Pot. Probably by means of this invention less food is wasted than in any other known methods of cooking. For instance, when a leg of mutton is roasted or baked, a certain amomit of flavour and nutriment must of necessity go up the chimney ; or when a leg of mutton is boiled, a certain amount of juice necessarily goes into the water in "ivhich it is boiled. AVarren's cooking pot cooks meat in an almost air-tight chamber, heated by steam. Thus the meat cooks in its own vapour. w is a large oval-shaped pot, into which is fitted an imier case A, leaving a space into which water is poured. The lid c may now be placed on, and the pot, so fiir as cooking meat is concerned, is complete. The meat of course is placed in the chamber A. The pot is placed on the fire, and the water in w kept boiling, the steam of course arising and suiTounding the chamber A, but not entering it. The lid c is made double for the purpose of condensing the steam, which runs back into w. There is, however, a small hole in the lid c in the top, in order to let out the steam in case it should boil too fast. A good-sized leg of mutton takes about tlu-ee hours to cook by this means. Shortly before it is done, open the chamber A, and pour into a basin all the liquor and melted fat that has run out of the leg of mutton owhig to the heat, and replace the mutton in A. Strain ofi" the fat, which of course must be kept for dripping, and warm up this liquor (from the condensation of the steam of the mutton, perchance increased by a trifling escape from the steam in the outer chamber) fresh in a small saucepan, and use it as the gravy to pour over the meat when served on a dish. In a leg of miitton cooked in Warren's cooking pot, a saving of quite ten per cent., if not more, is effected. Joints of meat can be cooked in Warren's pot till nearly done, and then browned before the fire, but a leg of mutton served as a boiled leg cooked this way is far preferable. The portion B of the pot is for cooking vegetables, and can be placed on the top of the chamber A APPENDIX, 1171 before the lid is placed on, and the same lid then fits on B. There is a small tube connecting b with w, so that the steam rises into B, into which vegetables may be placed, that are thus cooked by steam during the same time that the meat is being cooked in its own vapour in the chamber A. For travellers camping out there is probably no invention in the world in relation to cooking so useful as Captain Warren's cooking pot. A few bricks may be collected and ranged round with spaces between, filled with a little coke or coal, and the ])ot placed on the top. All that is necessary is to keep in the fire, and the meat and vegetables will, after a time, be as well cooked, and taste as savoury, though the fire has been stirred by a soldier's bayonet, as if served up in the most luxurious Parisian cafe. When the pot is not in use, first let it be thoroughly cleansed, and then put by in separate pieces, and not all fitted together. Of course, quite new pots require washing and boiling to get rid of that tin flavour peculiar to all new tin vessels. Whisk. There are several kinds of egg whisks ; the one generally used costs 6d. or Sd. Our gTandmothers dispensed Avith an egg whisk altogether, and used captaiiTwarken' s~cookin a pot. either a knife or a fork. Whatever whisk is used, the white of eggs will never froth properly unless the bowl iiito which they are broken is quite cold, and unless they are perfectly free from the least speck of yolk. It is best to whisk them in a cold place. Wire FpvYINg Basket. This is a basket made of wire to fit inside a frying pan; it is used to fry parsley, herbs, and various vegetables, as well as patties, croquettes, rissoles, and preparations of a similar nature. The articles to be fried should be put into the basket, and this should be plunged quickly into hot fat, and withdra-wn when they are done enough. They will, of course, need to be well drained. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. An ingenious person could make a basket of tAvisted wire which would ansAver the required purpose. WiPvE Stand. When meat is to be baked in the oven it should be placed on a wii-e stand iii the baking-tin. This will keep it from having the sodden taste whicli it would certainly get if it were laid flat in the tin. If liked, potatoes or a pudding can be baked under the meat. Probable cost, 6d. LISTS OF KITCHEX UTENSILS. The following lists are given for the purpose of assisting those who are about to furnish their kitchen in selecting the necessary articles. With kitchen utensils, as \vith everything else, the purchaser must first consider the extent of his resources; and it is frequently the case that articles must be dispensed with which every one acknowledges it is desirable to possess. The lists are made out for a large, a medium, and a small set of kitchen utensils. There is 1172 CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. one consideration which should not be forgotten, and that is that a clever cook will produce a good dinner with utensils that would be considered a sufficient excuse for total failure by an inefficient one, and in nothing is the skill of the workman shown so much as in the way he can manage inconveniences. Whether the supply of kitchen utensils be limited or ample, it cannot be too strongly insisted upon that they should be kept scrupulously clean. Cleanliness is the soul of good cookery. It has been already said that every utensil should be cleaned properly each time it is used, and that not one should ever be put away dirty. The kitchen should 1)0 kept clean and well ventilated, and when the cooking is over should be perfectly free from smell. The sink should be scoured every day with boiling water and a little soft soap, then thoroughly rmsed. If the kitchen is small and inconvenient, there is all the more need that care should be taken to keej) it clean, and to preserve in good order the utensils which have to be kept in it. Articles to he Found in a Large, Well-appointed Kitchen. 1 Large Wooden Meat Screen, with Hot Closet. 1 Basting Ladle. 1 Cradle Spit. 2 Polished Iron Meat Spits. 2 Holdfasts for Joints. 1 Dripping Pan, with Well. I 'Meat Cleaver. 1 Saw. 1 Bottle Jack. 12 Stewpans, in sizes, 1 pint to 9 quarts. 6 Iron Saucepans, in sizes. 2 Iron Saucepans, with Steamers, 6 to 8 quarts. 2 G-ridirons. 1 Bain Marie, with 6 Stewpans, 1 Soup Pot, and 1 Glaze Pot. 1 Braising Pan, with Drainer and Fii-e Cover. 1 Digester. 1 Preserving Pan. 1 Preserving Spoon. 1 Sugar Boiler. 1 Fish Frier, with Drainer for Frying Fish. 2 Saute Pans. 1 Omelet Pan. 1 Tea Kettle. 2 Frying Baskets. 2 Fish Kettles, different sizes, and 1 Fish Slice. 1 Set Poultry Skewers. 1 Set Meat Skewers. 3 Cook's Knives. 12 Tinned-iron Spoons, in sizes. 1 Root Knife. 6 Tinned Meat Hooks. 2 Dishing-up Forks. 1 Pair Steak Tongs. 1 Cutlet Bat. 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 1 Trussing Needle. 2 Larding Needles. 1 Salamander. 1 Toasting Fork. 1 Weighing Machine and Weights, to weigh up to 28 lbs. 1 INIarble Mortar and Hardwood Pestle. 4 Hair Sieves. 1 Wii-e Basket for Salad. 1 Brass-wire Sieve. 3 Block-tin Gravy Strainers, different sizes. 1 Spice Box. 1 Bread Grater. 1 Egg Whisk. 1 Egg Slice. 1 Dozen Patty Pans. 3 Tartlet Pans. Dozen Mince Pie Tins. 1 Box Paste Cutters. 1 Paste Jagger. 1 Box Vegetable Cutters. 3 Baking Sheets. 1 ilarble Slab for Pastrj-. 1 RoUing Pin. 1 Coffee Mill. 1 Jelly Bag and Stand. 6 Jelly Moulds. 3 Cake Moulds. 3 Pudding Moulds. 1 Vegetable Mould. 1 Mincing Machine. 1 Freezing Pot, 1 Freezing Pail, 1 Spatula, and i Ice Pudding Mould, or 1 Piston Freezing Machine. 1 Ice Closet. 1 Corkscrew. 1 Block-tin Colander. 1 Tin Funnel. 1 Flour Dredger. 1 Sugar Dredger. 3 French Vegetable Scoops. 1 Filter. 1 Wooden Meat Screen. 1 Bottle Jack. 1 Dripping Pan and Stand. 1 Basting Ladle. 3 Iron Saucepans. 3 Block-tin Saucepans. 1 Large Boiler. 1 Iron Digester. 1 Iron Sauce xan and Steamer. Medium Set. 2 Enamelled Stewpans. 1 Fish Kettle. 1 Fish and Egg Slice. 1 Paste Board and Rolling Pin. 12 Pattv Pans. 2 Tart Pans. 1 Paste Jagg ir. 1 Gridiron. 2 Frying Pans. APPENDIX. 1173 1 Omelet Pan. 2 Sets of Skewers. 1 Hair Sieve. 1 JeUy Bag. 1 Flour Dredger. 1 Pair 8te;ik Tongs. 1 Bread Grater. 1 Toasting Fork. 1 Kettle. '2 Larding Needles. 2 Jelly Moulds. 2 Pudding iloulds. 2 Cake Moulds. 1 Meat Chopper. 1 Chopping Board and Knife 1 Set of Scales and Weights. 1 Filter. 1 Colander. 1 Spice Box. (j Tinned-ii-on Spoons. 1 Funnel. 1 Gravy Strainer. 1 Box Cutters. 1 Coifee Mill. 1 Pestle and Mortar. 1 Saw. 1 Egg Whisk. 2 Baking Tins. Sm.\ll Set. 1 Meat Screen, with Bottle Jack, DrippingTin, and Basting Ladle. 1 Digester. 2 L'on Saucepans. 2 Iron Stewpans. 1 Boiler. 1 Fish Kettle and Slice. 1 Enamelled Saucepan. 1 Gridiron. 1 Frying Pan. 1 Omelet Pan. 1 Spice Box. 1 Filter. 1 Paste Board and RoUiug Pin. 1 Flour Dredger. 12 Patty Pans. 1 Hair Sieve. 1 Jelly Bag. 2 Pastry Cutters. 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 1 Colander. 1 Gravy Strainer. 1 Funnel. 1 Baking Tin. 1 Set of Skewers. 1 Set of Scales and Weights. 1 JeUy Mould. 1 Cake Mould. 1 Pudding Mould. 2 Large Iron Spoons. 1 Kettle. B. SEASONABLE FOOD. January. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, pork, house-lamb, doe- venison. Game and Poultry. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, fowls, chickens, capons, pullets, grouse, wild fowl, tirrkeys, tame pigeons. Fish. Turbot, soles, flounders, plaice, skate, whitings, cod, haddocks, herrings, smelts, lampreys, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, eels, carp, t nch, perch. Vegetables. Cabbages, broccoli, .savoys, endive, sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, lettuces, celery, cardoons, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, salsifj', turnips, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, onions, leeks, garlic, shallots, mustard and cress, cucumbers, asparagus, mushrooms, (xarden herbs, both dry and groon, being chiefly used in stuffing and soups, and for flavouring and garnishing certain dishes, are always in season : tan-agon, cher\'il, savory, mint, sage, thj-me, parsley, &c., may be procured all the year round. Fruits. Ajiples, pears, medlars, figs, raisins, cun-ants, prunes, gi'apes, walnuts, nuts, filberts, almonds, oranges, lemons. Preserved and dried fruits of all kinds may be used throughout the winter, as also jams, mai-malades, and fruit jellies. Especially in Season in January. Haddocks, wliitings, tench, skate, hares, rabbits. February. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, house - lamb, venison. Game and Poultry. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, i:iigeon8, turkeys, fowls, pullets, cajjons, chickens, green geese, ducks, ducklings, wild ducks, wild geese, tiu-key poults. Fish. Flounders, briU, plaice, skate, soles, turbot, codfish, whitings, smelts, sturgeon, herrings, haddocks, sprats, oysters, mussels, cockles, crabs, crayfish, prawns, shrimps, barbels, carp, eels, perch, pike, tench, trout, salmon-trout. Vegetables. Broccoli, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, savoys, celery, cardoons, lettuces, endive, spinach, soitcI, forced French beans, asparagus, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beetroot, chervil, cresses, and all small salads, 1174 CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. tarragon, scorzonera, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, parsley, sage, shallots, thjone, mint, and all garden herbs, fresh or dried, Jerusalem artichokes, dried peas, and beans. Fruits. Apples, pears, grapes, oranges, almonds, nuts, chestnuts, walnuts, figs, raisins, currants, filberts, prunes, all sorts of preserved and dried fruits, jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies, and forced strawberries. Especially in Seaso7i in February. Skate, tench, dace, ducklings, turkey poults, green Marcli. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, house-lamb, pork, doe-venison. Gayne and Poultry. Fowls, chickens, turkeys, ducks, pigeons, rabbits, guinea-fowl, woodcocks, snipe. Fish. Turbot, whiting, soles, plaice, flounders, skate, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, crayfish, cod, smelts, eels, carp, tench, mullet, mackerel. Vegetables. Savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spinach, lettuces, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, mushrooms, parsley and other garden herbs, onions, leeks, Scotch kale, broccoli, scorzonera, beet, salsify, sea-kale, chives, celery, cress, mustard, son-el, horse-radish, rhubarb, shallots, cucumbers. Fruit. Apples, pears, oranges, forced strawberries, dried and preserved fruits as in February. Especially in Season in March. Mackerel, mullet, skate, whiting, prawns, tench. April. Meat. Beef, mutton, grass -lamb, houselamb, Teal, pork. Game and Poultry. Pullets, cliickens, fowls, green geese, ducklings, pigeons, wood pigeons, rabbits, leverets, tm-key poults. Fish. Chub, carp, brill, cockles, conger-eels, cod, crabs, dory, flounders, eels, halibut, hng, herrings, lobsters, mullet, mackerel, mussels, perch, oysters, pike, plaice, salmon, pra ls, shi-imps, skate, smelt, tench, sturgeon, soles, trout, whitings, turbot. Vegetables. Asparagus, beans, fennel, endive, broccoli, cucumbers, cher\-il, lettuces, parsley, onions, peas, rhubarb, turnips, sorrel, sea-kale, radishes, spinach, turnixi - tops, small salad, parsnips. Fruits. Apples, oranges, pears, early strawbei-ries, walnuts. Especially in Season in Aj)ril. Salmon, skate, tench, prawns, crabs, lobsters, grass - lamb, asparagus, cucumbers. May. Meat. Beef, mutton, house-lamb, grass-lamb, pork, veal. Game and Poultry. Fowls, pigeons, pullets. ducklings, cliickens, green geese, wood pigeons, rabbits, leverets. Fish. Eels, conger-eels, carp, cod, crabs, dace, brill, flounders, ling, lobsters, mackerel, perch, mullet, prawns, plaice, pike, salmon, smelts, skate, shrimps, whitings, chub, crayfish, gurnet, dory, haddocks, herrings, halibut, turbot, trout, soles, sturgeon, tench. Vegetables. Cabbage, carrots, asparagus, kidney beans, cher\il, tiu-nips, spinach, sorrel, sea-kale, lettuces, peas, rhubarb, com salad, cucumbers, cauliflowers, radishes, onions, artichokes, new potatoes, salads generally. Prwiis. Apples, pears, cherries, currants, scarlet strawberries, gooseberries, melons, apricots (forced). Especially in Season in May. Salmon, skate, prawns, lobsters, crabs. June. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, grass-lamb, buckvenison. Game and Poultry. Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducklings, green geese, turkey poults, pigeons, leverets, rabbits, plovers. Fish. Salmon, tui-bot, soles, mackerel, smelts, trout, crabs, pike, carp, eels, tench, lobsters, prawTis, shrimps, mullet, haddocks, skate, stiu-geon, whitebait. Vegetables. Cauliflowers, spinach, potatoes, beans, peas, artichokes, asparagus, carrots, parsnips, turnips, lettuces, cucumbers, onions, radishes, cresses, and aU kinds of salads and garden herbs, sorrel, white beet, horse-radish, rhubarb, vegetable marrow. Fruits. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, strawberries, apricots, peaches, various kinds of apples, pears, and nectarines, grapes, pineapples, melons. For Pickling. Garlic. For Drying. Orange thjTne, bumet, mint, tarragon. Especially in Seasonin June. Salmon, salmon- trout, skate, prawns, whitebait, lobsters, crabs, grass-lamb, vegetable maiTow. July. Meat. Beef, mutton, grass - lamb, houselamb, pork, veal, venison. Game and Poultry. Tame rabbits, wild rabbits, leverets, plovers, fowls, wheatears, wild chickens, pullets, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, ducks, wood pigeons. Fish. Eels, dace, dory, conger-eels, cod, carp, brill, barbel, crabs, crayfish, flounders, henings, haddocks, mackerel, ling, lobsters, trout, thornback, muUct, plaice, pike, soles, salmon, skate, tench, gurnet, perch, dabs, pra 'ns, whitings. Vegetables. Kidney, Windsor, and scarlet beans, asparagus, artichokes, celery, endive, carrots, cher\-il, lettuces, mushrooms, potatoes, peas, salsify, spinach, sorrel, radishes, salad, turnips. 1175 For ridding. Frencli beaus, red cabbage, cauliflowers, gherkins, cucumbers, onions, radish pods, nastm-tiums, garlic. For Drying. Salsify, knotted marjoram, summer and winter savory. Fruits. Apples, pears, oranges, pine-apples, cherries, currants, damsons, melons, goosebemes, strawberries, raspberries, pkmas, peaches, nectarines. Especially in Season in July. Grass-lamb, crabs, dace, mackerel, lobsters, herrings, prawns, salmon, plovers, chickens, green geese, wild chickens, damsons. August. Meat. Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, veal, venison. Game and Poultry. Grouse, pullets, fowls, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, chickens, ducks, moor game, plovers, turkeys, wild ducks, pigeons, and rabbits ; wheatears, rabbits, leverets. Fish. Turbot, whitings, eels, conger-eels, dabs, dace, salmon, skate, tench, thornback, flounders, perch, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, crabs, pike, plaice, barbel, carp, oysters, prawns, gmTiet, brill, cod, crayfish, mackerel, mullet, soles. Vegetables. French, kidney, Windsor, and scarlet beans, caiTots, artichokes, onions, lettuces, cauliflowers, cucumbers, peas, salsify, radishes, salads generally, mushrooms, potatoes, shallots, tui-nips, spinach, leeks, endive. Fruits. Apples, pears, peaches, plums, greengages, damsons, cherries, currants, raspberries, gooseben-ies, grapes, figs, melons, nectarines, filberts, midbeiTies. For Pickling. Eed cabbage, wahiuts, capsicums, chillies, tomatoes. For Drying. Thjrnie, basU, sage. Es'peeially in Season in Ai(,gi(,st. Tm-bot, mackerel, pike, perch, prawns, dace, crabs, henings, lobsters, grouse, greengages, filberts, figs. September. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, and venison. Game and Poultry. Fowls, pullets, chickens, geese, wild ducks, partridges, grouse, pigeons, hares, rabbits, turkey poults. Fish.~Cod, haddocks, flounders, plaice, mullet, saknon, soles, smelts, lobsters, oysters prawns, carp, tench, pike, perch, ' heiTings biHl, turbot, crabs, eels, dace. Vegetables. Votatocs, cauliflowers, cabbages, turnips, peas, beans, artichokes, carrots, onions, mushrooms, lettuces, sorrel, celery, beet, scorzonera, salsify, leeks, thyme, sage, penn Toyal, marjoram, and all sorts of salads and sweet herbs. Fruits. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, gi-apes, strawberries, melons, pines, walnuts, filberts, hazel-nuts, quinces, medlars, currants, damsons, fie-s. Especially in Season in September. Pike, perch, lobsters, dace, crabs, mussels, hares, moor game, partridges, grouse, wild ducks. October, Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, venison, pork. Game and Poultry. Geese, turkeys, fowls, pullets, chickens, wild ducks, widgeons, teal, woodcocks, larks, grouse, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, snipes, hares, rabbits. Fish. Oysters, lobsters, crabs, brill, gurnet, sahnon-trout, dory, smelts, halibut, gudgeon, barbel, perch, carp, tench, herrings, eels, hake, pike, dace. Vegetables. ? Tm-nips, potatoes, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, parsnii s, beans, peas, onions, leeks, spinach, endive, celery, salsify, scorzonera, cardoons, beet, parsley, mushrooms, salads of all sorts, sweet herbs of aU sorts, garlic, shaUots. Fruits. Pears, peaches, apples, plums, figs, medlars, grapes, walnuts, filberts, nuts, quinces, damsons, pines. Especially in Season in October. Dace, i)ike, hake, dory, partridges, j)heasants, widgeons, broccoli, truffles, grapes, medlars, tomatoes, hazel-nuts. November. Meat. Beef, veal, mutton, pork, venison. Game and Poultry. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, geese, fowls, pullets, turkeys, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, pigeons, grouse. KsTi. Oysters, lobsters, crabs, salmon-trout, dory, soles, smelts, gurnets, brill, halibut, barbel, carp, pike, tench, coclcles, mussels, turbot, hen-ings, sprats, haddock, wliiting, skate, cod, eels, dace. Vegetables. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, onions, leeks, shaUots, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbages, broccoli, savoys, spinach, beet, cardoons, chervil, endive, lettuces, salsify, scorzonera, Scotch kale, celery, mushrooms, tarragon, parsley, all sorts of salads and sweet herbs. Fruits. Apples, pears, quinces, grapes, walnuts, chestnuts, filberts, nuts, figs, grapes, raisins. Especially in Season in November. Pike, tench, plaice, dory, sprats, grouse, geese, hares, snipes, woodcocks, teal, chestnuts. December. 3Ieat. Beef, veal, mutton, pork, doe-venison. Poultry and Game. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, grouse, partridges, woodcocks, snipe, fowls, chickens, pullets, turkeys, geese, wild geese, ducks, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, larks, capons, pea-fowl. Fish. Sturgeon, turbot, soles, skate, codfish, CASSELLS DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. haddocks, smelts, dory, gurnet, herrings, sprats, oysters, mussels, cockles, lobsters, crabs, and shell -tish in general, perch, carp, eels, dace, ling. Ver etahles. Cabbages, broccoH, savoys, Brus- sels sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, endive, cardoons, lettuces, skirret, salsify, scorzonera, sorrel, potatoes, turnips, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, peas, haricot beans, leeks, onions, shallots, mush- rooms, horse-radish, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, mint, sage, small salads. Garden herbs, or pot herbs, which are cliiefly used for st in soups, and for flavouring dishes, or for garnishing, are always in season, and can be procm-ed at any time, cither green or dried. Frii its. Apples, pears, medlars, grapes, figs, chestnuts, almonds, filberts, nuts, walnuts, raisins, currants, prunes, and all sorts of preserved and dried fruits, jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies. Especially in Season in December. Haddocks, tench, dace, cod, dory, ling, skate, turbot, capons, pea-fowl, turkeys. C._GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKERY. Aspic. A savom-y jelly. AssiETTE. Small entrees not more than a plate will contain. Atelet. A small silver skewer. Au Blei\ Applied to fish so dressed as to have a bluish appearance. Au Gras. Dressed with meat gxavy. Au Jus. In the natural juice, or gravy. Au Naturel. Plain, simple cookery. Bab A. ? Very light plum-cake, or sweet French yeast cake. Baix-Marie. An open vessel which has a loose bottom for the reception of hot water. It is used to keep sauces nearly at the boilingpoint without reduction or burning. Barde. A thin slice of bacon fat placed over any substoiice specially requiring the assistance of fat without larding. Batterie de Cuisine. Complete set of cooking apparatus. Bavaroise a l'eau. Tea sweetened with syrup of capillaire, and flavoured with a little orange-flower water. Bavaroise at: Lait. IMade in the same way as the above, but with equal quantities of milk and tea. Bechamel. A rich white French sauce. Beigxet, or Fritter (see Flitter). Bisque. - A soup made of shell-fish. Blanc. " Tiite broth iised to give a more delicate aj pearance to the flesh of fowl, lamb, &c. Blaxch. Placing anytliing on the fire in cold water until it boils, and after straining it off, plunging it into cold water for the purpose of rendering it white. Used to whiten poultry, vegetables, &;c. Blanquette. A fricassee usually made of thin slices of white meat, with white sauce thickened with egg yolk. Bligxet. To fritter an :hing enveloped in butter or egg and fried. Bormx. A rich compound of various meats. BouiLLi. Beef very much boiled, and served with sauce. BouiLLiE. A French dish resembling that called hasty pudding. Bouillon. The common soup of France. Bouquet of Herbs. -Parsley, thyme, and green onions tied together. Bouquet Garni. The same, with the addition of cloves or aromatic herbs. Bourguignote. A ragout of truffles. Braise. Meat cooked in a closely-covered stewpan to prevent evaporation, so that the meat retains not only its own juices, but those of any other articles, such as bacon, herbs, roots, and spice put with it. Braisiere. A saucepan with ledges to the lid, so that it will contain firing. Briber. To truss fowls with a needle and thread. Brioche. A sponge cake similar to Bath buns. BuissoN. A cluster or bush of small pastrjpiled on a dish. Callipash. The glutinous portion of the turtle found in the upper shell. Callipee. The glutinous meat of the turtle's under shell. Cannelons. Small roUs or collars of mincemeat, or of rice and pastrj- with fruit. Capilotade. a hash of poultry. Casserole. The form of rice to 1)0 fiUed with a fricassee of white meat or a puree o; game ; also a stewpan. Civet. A dark, thickish stew of hare or venison. , -.-i CoMPEiGNE. Sweet French yeast cake, \v-itn Compote. Stewed fruits served with sjTup. There are also compotes of small birds. Confitures. Sweetmeats of sugars, fruus, syrups, and essences.

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